Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Dubrovnik Spring 2019

Spring is in the Air Explore Dubrovnik’s Green Surroundings

N°27 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Orlando’s Year The Stone Knight’s 600th Birthday - no need to book, just show up 10 min before departure - tickets available on the spot / 5% discount on online bookings: www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com SCHEDULE 2019 09:30 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 13:30 A STORY ABOUT THE WAR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / May 1 to Oct 31 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31 10:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 15:00 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31 10:20 DUBROVNIK ENTDECKER TOUR 16:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31 150+50* KN / 2 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31 10:30 DESCUBRIR-DUBROVNIK RECORRIDO A PIE 16:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / April 1 to Oct 31 90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31 11:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 17:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / year round 150+50* KN / 2 hours / June 1 to Sept 30 11:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 17:30 CITY WALLS & DUBROVNIK 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Sep 30 200+200** KN / 2.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31 12:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 17:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 90 KN / 1 hour / year round 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Sep 1 to Oct 31 12:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 18:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Oct 31 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sept 30 13:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 18:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sep 30 150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31 * Entrance fee is 50 kn but if you already have a City Walls ticket or a Dubrovnik Card you can use it for free entrance ** Price for the City Walls entrance is an additional 200 KN. The entrance is free with Dubrovnik Card. *** All tours are in English apart from those indicated above with flags

MEETING Meeting Point for all tours is The Big Onofrio’s Fountain POINT (located within the City Walls). LOOK FOR A RED UMBRELLA

Doživljaj Mediterana d.o.o., Bartola Kašića 5, 20236 Mokošica, OIB 68762372382, IC: HR-AB-20-090011580 tel: +385 20 436 846, mob: +385 95 744 74 74, [email protected], www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com - no need to book, just show up 10 min before departure - tickets available on the spot / 5% discount on online bookings: www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com SCHEDULE 2019 09:30 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 13:30 A STORY ABOUT THE WAR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / May 1 to Oct 31 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31 10:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 15:00 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31 10:20 DUBROVNIK ENTDECKER TOUR 16:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31 150+50* KN / 2 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31 10:30 DESCUBRIR-DUBROVNIK RECORRIDO A PIE 16:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 90 KN / 1 hour / April 1 to Oct 31 90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31 11:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 17:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 150+50* KN / 2 hours / year round 150+50* KN / 2 hours / June 1 to Sept 30 11:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 17:30 CITY WALLS & DUBROVNIK 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Sep 30 200+200** KN / 2.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31 12:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 17:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 90 KN / 1 hour / year round 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Sep 1 to Oct 31 12:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 18:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Oct 31 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sept 30 13:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 18:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sep 30 150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31 * Entrance fee is 50 kn but if you already have a City Walls ticket or a Dubrovnik Card you can use it for free entrance ** Price for the City Walls entrance is an additional 200 KN. The entrance is free with Dubrovnik Card. *** All tours are in English apart from those indicated above with flags

MEETING Meeting Point for all tours is The Big Onofrio’s Fountain POINT (located within the City Walls). LOOK FOR A RED UMBRELLA

Doživljaj Mediterana d.o.o., Bartola Kašića 5, 20236 Mokošica, OIB 68762372382, IC: HR-AB-20-090011580 tel: +385 20 436 846, mob: +385 95 744 74 74, [email protected], www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com

Contents

ESSENTIAL Dubrovnik Surroundings 42 CITY G UIDES The top gateways

Dubrovnik County Map 42 What’s On 7 Leisure 52 You won’t be bored Recreational pleasure Orlando’s Year 13 Shopping 54 The stone knight’s 600th birthday Take home the best memories and souvenirs Restaurants 14 Dubrovnik Basics 58 Spicing things up The A-Z of Dubrovnik Coffee & Cakes 28 Arrival & Getting Around 59 What a plesure Lost? Help is at hand Nightlife 29 Maps & Street Register Music to your ears Street Register 63 Sightseeing 34 City Map 64 Check out the highlights City Centre Map 66

The Marin Držić Theater, named after the most important Dubrovnik playwright, keeps the spring season alive with its premiers and guest performances from other Croatian cities. As they say, ‘open the curtains and let the show begin.’ facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 5 Foreword It’s arguably in spring that Dubrovnik’s charms are at their Publisher seductive best. The cityis sufficiently busy with tourists for Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb everything to be up and running; all those cool bars and ISSN 1846-0852 restaurants that take a well-deserved winter break tend to open their doors again by April, and are well into their Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić stride come May. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 The streets are yet to be swamped by the summer crowds, [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com however, allowing the locals the time and space to display Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o. that not-rushed-off-their-feet sense of hospitality and Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja spontaneity that makes the Croatian coast that little bit Editorial more welcoming than some other places in the Med. The Editor Višnja Arambašić weather is usually reliable enough for al-fresco dining,and Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić you probably won’t be fighting fellow tourists for a table in Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić quite the way you might be later in July or August. Research & Community Manager Katarina Buljan Design Ivana Mihoković Indeed it’s in the gloriously bright but mild weather that Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise spring really comes into its own. It’s the ideal season for stated exploring – not just all the nooks and crannies of the city it- Cover Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina self, but also the lush gardens of Trsteno or the wild beauty Štimac of the Elafiti Islands. It’s a great time for hiking, picnicking, cycling and kayakinginstead of simply lolling on the beach. Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps And don’t just take the cable car to the summit of Mount copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub- Srđ and come straight back down again; spend an hour or lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the two strolling on the plateau behind the cable-car station, publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket or head east to the village of Bosanka. High summer in Du- is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, brovnik may be perfect for mid-day siestas and long sultry Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). In Your Pocket is not nights, but it’s in spring that the yearning for adventure re- responsible for any information which might change after publi- cation. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt. ally takes flight.

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6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Lindjo Folk Ensemble Archives What’s On

ENRICH YOUR CALENDAR, SEE THE EXHIBITIONS, CONCERTS, AND SPECIAL EVENTS IN AND AROUND TOWN What’s On EASTER BALLET & DANCE 03.05 - 15.10 » THE LINĐO FOLK ENSEMBLE 21.04 The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural The Croatian word for Easter, Uskrs, means “resurrec- exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you during the tion”, and here, as in most Catholic countries, it’s a tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performanc- holiday whose importance closely rivals Christmas. es with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Lazareti. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July Holy Week starts one week before Easter Sunday with 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances Cvjetna Nedjelja (Flower Sunday), when people take are as per the festival’s schedule. To reserve your ticket decorative twigs to church to be blessed, to protect call (+385-20) 32 40 23, (+385-) 099 833 06 79.QL‑2, The their homes for the coming year. Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lindjo.hr. Every Tuesday The following week consists of cleaning and decorat- & Friday. ing the home to symbolise the rebirth of spring, and preparing traditional cakes and breads. On Holy Thurs- day, church bells are tied up for three days in respect of CLASSICAL CONCERTS the Last Supper. At this time, one may not plough, sow 01.04 - 31.10 » CANDLELIGHT CONCERTS or chop wood. Both the earth and our bodies must What could be more enjoyable than a candle-lit classical be allowed to rest and regenerate. Good Friday is not concert in the serene surroundings of the beautiful St. Sav- treated as a public holiday here. iour’s Church? Everyday there will be a concert held by a On Easter Saturday, you are most likely to find people different ensemble: Mondays have the Sorkočević Quartet, colouring and decorating eggs in traditional style. Wednesdays the Dubrovnik String Quartet and Thursdays There are many other traditions for this day, one ex- are booked for the most beautiful compositions by the ample being burning wood in front of the church and ‘Great Masters’ with performances by Slobodan Begić on carrying home the ash. violin, Nena Ćorak on piano, Tomislav Žerovnik on guitar On Easter Sunday, those of a churchgoing persuasion and Vanda Đanić on cello.QB‑2, Church of St Saviour, will take traditional Easter food to be blessed, usually Placa bb. Every Mon, Wed, Thu. bread, ham, decorated eggs, spring onions, horserad- ish, salt and cake. Usually these are carried in a wicker 12.04 - 31.05 » DUBROVNIK MUSICAL basket covered with an embroidered cloth. Then it’s SPRING time to spend the rest of the day at home eating: this is The Dubrovnik Musical Spring is aimed at enriching the considered a family celebration. city’s cultural offer in spring and it features the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra with Marc Tardue as music direc- tor. The event is a cycle of classical music concerts and Red History Museum Archives this year will feature some noted national and interna- tional artists performing in conjunction with the orches- tra. Qwww.dso.hr.

EXHIBITIONS 28.12 - 30.04 » CHEST OF DRAWERS THROUGHOUT THE CENTURIES What we take for granted today was a symbol of noble richness centuries ago. The exhibition at the Rector’s Pal- ace presents 25 classical chests from the fundus of the Cultural and Historical Museum. These furniture pieces originated in the period from the 17th to the late 19th cen- turies and if you have an eye for furniture, we invite you to decipher the smallest details in craftsmanship.QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. 31.01 - 05.06 » COCKROACHES - THE WORLD THAT REMAINS BEHIND Take a different approach to the cockroach through this exhibition which features the biology and evolution of this highly resistant animal group of insects. See the vast ar- ray of cockroach species, plus the insectarium depicting their entire life cycle through an example of the living units of the Madagascar juniper cockroach and Argentine cockroach. QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www.pmd.hr.

8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com What’s On

Marin Držić Theatre Archives

01.01 - 31.12 » UNDER PRESSURE 21.03 - 28.04 » IVAN PERAK: BOATS Become a sea expert at the Natural History Museum of Famous for his expressive métiers d’art which is character- Dubrovnik where this all-year-round exhibition offers a ised by spot-colouring, Ivan Perak is an artist who breaks thorough insight into what’s under the sea in the Adriatic. down visual form and creates abstract optical sensations, Totally wild and totally made for adult and child, lots of with the use of layered application of high-intensity co- visuals, fun and facts can be found without having to get lour. As such, his paintings are predominantly authentic all too wet!QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, colour experiments with a little connection to the famed Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www.pmd.hr. Dubrovnik colourist tradition. This exhibition from the ‘Boats’ cycle will present the Dubrovnik artist’s talent in all 16.03 - 21.04 » TOMISLAV IVANIŠIN: WILD its glory.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ron- FLOWERS ald Brown Memorial House, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. Dubrovnik-born artist Tomislav Ivanišin presents a selec- (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. tion of 150 paintings from his ‘Wild Flowers’ series made between 2005 and 2018. Ivanišin’s modernist style depicts 18.03 - 31.12 » SELECTION OF ART WORKS landscape as a cartography of precise frames which can BY ĐURO PULITIKA FROM THE DU- be found in a garden, meadow, hillside, underwater rocks BROVNIK ART GALLERY COLLECTION – the entire world is revealed in nature and its totality, with When an artist has his own atelier opened to the public aesthetics built sharply and sensuously, capturing meta- then you know he has attained success, Putilika has earnt physical light.QL‑5, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, this right and is part of the famous Dubrovnik-based tril- Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www. ogy of painters, alongside Antun Masle and Ivo Dulčić. This ugdubrovnik.hr. exhibit showcases a selection of art works from the Du- brovnik Art Gallery which will then be stored in his atelier 15.06 - 15.06 » THE BODY OF MY BODY permanently. QThe Pulitika Studio, www.ugdubrovnik. Portrait photographs of parents and children at all stages hr. of life. Displayed without comment or interpretation, they are deeply touching. QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History 27.03 - 15.04 » AFRICA, TANZANIA AT HEART Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. The exhibition will present approximately fifty photos pmd.hr. in large format taken by Dubrovnik architect Božo Benić

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 9 What’s On between 2015 and 2017, during his voluntary journey to photography and transfers them onto a graphics board via Africa. In particular, Benić depicts life in Tanzania, espe- traditional graphics techniques (copper etching and dry cially in relation to the humanitarian cause ‘Dubrovnik for needle), thus creating different textures and multi-layered Africa: Water Drops – An Ocean of Love’, thanks to which a combinations of seemingly discordant elements.QD‑3, large water supply system was built in poor and drought The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Me- ridden settlements in the north of the country.QB‑3, Eth- morial House, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 nographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. 30 13, www.dumus.hr. 01.04 - 31.10 » THE END OF YUGOSLAVIA FESTIVALS ​The expression every picture tells a story has its merit. 13.06 - 16.06 » LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THE- This permanent collection of images presents some of the ATRE world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splendour of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very unique and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event; whether Darko Bandić, Jan Grarup, Claus Bjorn Larsen, Yannis Beh- through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Festival du Theatre rakis, Chris Morris, Emmanuel Ortiz, Peter Northall, Tarik will never leave you uninspired nor does it disappoint.QL‑2, Samarah, Wade Goddard, Ziyah Gafic and Jon Jones are The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lepetitfestival.com. included. Multimedia video included.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www. warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. FOOD & DRINK 22.04 - 28.04 » DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE 10.04 - 25.12 » LIFE IN YUGOSLAVIA Martin Luther once said, ‘Beer is made by men, wine by Through the use of classical to modern technology, this God’. The message here is clear and the message in Du- exhibition provides a unique interactive experience dwell- brovnik is truly clear. In order to get that fulfilling local ex- ing into the former Yugoslavia with elements of its history, perience, tourists must try at least some local wine. 14th art and politics, through to secret government agencies, century anecdotes vindicate the making of wine here and culture, food and more. See what life was like under social- this event brings wine from the cellar to the table. It’s an ist rule and you can even try versions of communist drinks all-round experience with over 100 regional winemakers and lollies…. QH‑1, Red History Museum, Sv.Križa 3, presenting their vino to experts; workshops are about www.redhistorymuseum.com. ‘wine in tourism’ with topics from cork and packaging to making it on the market. Art exhibits, excursions to vine- 25.04 - 27.05 » SAO ROMA yards, local restaurants offering local wines with matching The Association of Roma Folkloric Art named ‘Romano Ilo’ dishes. What can you say, a divine wine experience waits! from Skopje, Northern Macedonia, present this multime- Sunset Beach Lapad BayQL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Su- dia exhibition which showcases the continuity and chang- pila bb, www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com. es that have taken place over the past 50 years in marking their native holiday of ‘Đurđevdan’ in Skopje, celebrated 26.04 - 30.04 » KORČULANSKE PJATANCE - from May 2 to 9. QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od SPRING FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr. The invitation is out for all food and wine lovers as lo- 25.04 - 26.05 » ZLATAN VEHABOVIĆ: DARK cal restaurants and taverns give their chefs free reign in WHITE COUNTRY tailor making menus and dishes just for this event. Set in beautiful gardens, bistros, and terraces, the season One of the most intriguing painters of the younger gen- of spring brings with it an abundant amount of sea- eration with a Zagreb address left home and went on a sonal herbs and ingredients which is why this creative, three-week voyage and is about to share his findings. Vehabović took part in a sailing expedition starting at the proactive and selective event is worth visiting. Accom- Svalbard Islands located between Norway and the North panying wines from the areas are just the added anti- Q Pole and explored its west archipelago. Paintings filled dote to a perfect experience! Korčula Island, www. with incredible images of vast natural spaces emerged as korculanskepjatance.com. a direct reaction to the incredible exposure to northern areas, thus the title of the exhibition. QL‑5, Museum of SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS Modern Art Dubrovnik, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385- 20) 42 65 90, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. EVENTS 14.04 - 21.04 » HOLY WEEK IN KORČULA 03.05 - 16.06 » KRISTINA RESTOVIĆ: TOUR- Want a dose of ancient culture? Then head to Korčula dur- ISTS ing Holy Week as three local confraternities – the All Saints As an award winning artist, Restović deals with the impli- founded in 1301, St. Rocco founded in 1575 and St. Michael cations of mass tourism along our coastline and beyond from 1603 unite to hold a colourful procession through the through graphic and digital media. Namely, Restović uses town dressed in remarkable costumes and religious rega- a technique of processing the negatives from her digital lia.Qwww.visitkorcula.eu.

10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com What’s On 26.04 - 28.04 » AKLAPELA Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, sing- ing without instruments but ranging their voices from baritone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from above would applaud. This is klapa music, authentic a capella music from Croatia. This annual three day fest draws the finest male/female klape performers which you simply need to hear, to believe!QD‑3, Marin Držić Theatre, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 88, www. aklapela.hr. 01.05 - 24.06 » SPRING IN KONAVLE Spring in Konavle is a series of active and recreational activities designed to promote the Konavle region as the ideal destination for rural tourism. Events range from races through nature and educational wine tours to traditional folklore festivals and art workshops. It’s also a wonderful opportunity for the whole family to try foods unique to the region.Qwww.visit.cavtat-konavle.com. 16.05 - 19.05 » FOLKLORE FESTIVAL “MOON- LIGHT ON THE NERETVA” This traditional folklore festival takes place at the Neretva River delta in the town of Metković. The four-day event brings together performers of traditional song and dance from across Dalmatia, other areas of Croatia and even around Europe.Visitors get the chance to see performanc- es featuring traditional costumes that breathe new life into the area’s rich cultural heritage.Qwww.tzmetkovic. hr/en/. 01.06 - 05.06 » INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO ART FESTIVAL Just as Marco Polo had travelled the distance, organisers go the distance with a focus on Art productions from the countries included along the Silk Road. Artistic moves, endeavours, trends, and productions from the new to old, historiographic to experimental and mainstream are captured and presented. It also brings forth a network of leaders and devotees in the field which becomes a hub for establishing dialogue!QKorčula Island, www. marcopoloartfestival.eu.

SPORT 27.04 » MARCO POLO CHALLENGE 2019 - TRIATHLON Swimming, cycling and running are part of any triathlon, but when it happens to be on the island of Korčula with its pine forests, pristine beaches and natural flora and fauna, it gives the word ‘triathlon’ a whole new meaning. All are welcomed from professionals to amateurs, pre and post events leading to the day will be held as well as the hu- manitarian aspect. Fitness, mingling and jingling, it will make Marco Polo himself quite proud!QKorčula, www. tksplit.hr.

youtube.com/inyourpocket Du Motion - Runners’ Days Dubrovnik Archives facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 11 What’s On 27.04 - 28.04 » DU MOTION REVELIN FORTRESS Du Motion celebrates its first 5 years! There are four fantas- tic running events to be held over two days. Turn sporty Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Du- and choose from the “21K”, a 21 km long race which starts brovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. and ends on Stradun. “Run the wall” is a 2km race which The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits follows the entire lenght of the ancient walls.The “5 K” whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a also starts and ends at Stradun and goes through to the virtual museum. Gruž harbour. Finally, we can’t forget our juniors with their The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik “Kid’s Day” run from the Onofrio Fountain to Luža. All in all, and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone a great atmosphere is truly felt around the place with this is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furni- perfect combination of sports, culture and beauty. Log ture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit onto www.du-motion.com to reserve your entry!QB/C‑2, presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and im- Stradun, Placa, www.du-motion.com. posts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine or- 14.05 - 19.05 » DUBROVNIK OUTDOOR der in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from FESTIVAL the 8th and 12th century. Feeling adventurous! Then you’ve come to the right place with the 2nd edition of this festival taking place in May, The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial along the Konvale bay. 6 days of various competitions for Development and Foundry presents how the very people of all visitors young and old will be held; try sea building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict kayaking, running, abseiling, hiking, biking, rock-climbing, its 15th and 16th century construction as well as find- a duathlon and more amidst some of the most spectacular ings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and surroundings combining forestry, mountains and the sea. the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Venture for adventure!Qwww.dubrovnikoutdoor.com. Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to 25.05 » GREEN TRAIL MLJET potential Venetian dangerQE-1, dumus.hr/en. Open An international fun run using the footpaths and moun- 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Unified museum ticket taineering trails of Mljet National Park. There’s a kids’ race (see page 36). at 13:00, and two runs for adult competitors at noon: the 11km Ogiran, and the muscle-stretching 33km Od- ysseus. All events start and finish at the little village of Polače.Qwww.facebook.com/greentrailmljet.

THEATRE 18.04 » SUTON Under the direction of Ivica Boban, the audience get to the see premiere of ‘Suton’(Dusk), a tale of love versus pride amidst Dubrovnik’s aristocracy as written by one of the city’s best authors in Ivo Vojnović. More performances to follow! QD‑3, Marin Držić Theatre, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 88, www.kmd.hr. 15.05 - 18.05 » SNOW QUEEN The Zagreb’s Trešnja Theater is home to many wonderful children’s plays with the latest being the ‘Snow Queen’ as directed by Paola Tišljarić according to the text H.C. An- dersen and adapted by Lada Kaštelan. QD‑3, Marin Držić Theatre, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 88, www. kmd.hr. 31.05. » ADAM AND EVE Another premiere at the Marin Držić Theater is ‘Adam and Eve’ according to the great Croatian writer Miroslav Krleža, and is directed by young Helena Petković. QD‑3, Marin Držić Theatre, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 88, www.kmd.hr.

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12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Orlando’s Year Most cities have their must visit landmarks whether they are buildings, churches, museums, stadiums, botanical gar- dens, castles and more. Dubrovnik too has its fair amount of popular attractions one of which is the statue of Orlando on the Luža Square.

The original and precise name is ‘Orlando’s Column’ and it is a symbol of freedom and state independence which has served Dubrovnik over the centuries. It was made in 1418 by local sculptor Antun Dubrovčanin and master sculptor Bonino di Milano.

According to legend, Orlando saved Dubrovnik from a 15-month siege from the Saracens in the 9th century, after which thankful citizens erected the column in his honour, but as truth would have it, the real Orlando – better known as Roland – was French, and he became a symbol of a city under the protection of the Hungarian- Croatian king.

Orlando’s Column has served many purposes over the years. It measures 51.2 cm from hand to elbow and was used as a unit of measurement. It was used as the city’s Pillar of Shame, a place where criminals or guilty wrong- doers were bound and publicly shamed. Proclamations of State were read here with the flying of the flag and it also reminded Ottoman suzerains that the locals would always identify with Christian Europe rather than Constantinople.

With the collapse of the Republic in 1815, Orlando’s Col- umn was destroyed in 1825, only to be re-established in its current location (facing north this time) in 1878.This sword- brandishing knight has stood the test of time ever since and is a centre piece of the city. It still plays an essential role today where locals and tourists meet, photos are taken and serenades are sung - rain, hail or shine

2019 has been chosen as the Year of Orlando with eminent cultural and entertainment events to be held throughout the entire year. Look out for concerts, orchestras, art exhib- its, workshops, sporting events and more.

With such memorial events being held over time, the an- gelic faced knight will indeed remain as a public figure for centuries to come. And even though generations have come and gone, Orlando has and always will remain at the heart of local folk, their sign of ‘Libertas.’

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 13 Restaurants CROATIAN KOMIN The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weap- BISTRO GLORIJET onry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this is cooked before your very eyes – try meat or fish ispod lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible pric- Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.restaurant- es. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as komin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn). A ­P ­ a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. G ­T ­B ­L ­6 ­W (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). A ­P ­G ­T ­U ­6 ­W KOPUN Nestling under gnarled trees near the Jesuit Church Kopun BISTRO TAVULIN has carved out an enviable reputation as a restaurant that With tables spread across the alleyway just behind the does traditional and contemporary at the same time. They Church of St Blaise, Tavulin offers a quality mixture of tra- have reinvented dishes like kopun (the roast capon from ditional and creative cuisine at prices which won’t have which the restaurant gets its name) and šporkimakaruli (an you rushing for the cash machine. The octopus ragout old-school Dubrovnik dish featuring tubes of pasta with with beans and polenta (150Kn) is something of a signa- goulash) alongside a wealth of delicate pastas, risottos and ture dish and reveals a lot about what Tavulin is trying to salads. Quality food, smooth service, and the view isn’t bad do – dig some good ideas out of the old recipe books either.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) and present them in a fresh contemporary way. Fresh fish 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www. and slow cooked veal are among the other regular stand- restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250kn). outs, and inexpensive daily specials are chalked up on the A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­J ­6 ­W blackboard.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. From June MIMOZA Open 09:00 - 23:00. (120 - 190kn). P ­G ­B ­J ­6 ­W ­i In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle DUBROVNIK your tour group and several others simultaneously, seem- A consistently good place for succulent seafood pasta ingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the ter- dishes and quality grilled or baked fish, the Dubrovnik was race, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place one of the establishments rewarded with a place on Mi- to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian chelin’s list in 2018. The covered roof terrace is one of the dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika Old Town’s most evocative dining-out locations; there’s a 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimoza- good list of top Croatian wines, and service is very smooth dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). indeed.QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge 5, tel. (+385-) 099 258 58 A ­P ­G ­T ­B ­E ­S ­6 ­W ­i 71, www.restorandubrovnik.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (180-450 kn). A ­G ­T ­U ­B ­W ORHAN Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile – it’s like KAVANA TEATAR something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from 41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 - pizza and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts. 23:30. (80 - 200kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­J ­6 ­W This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best of all, for a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 07:00 - 24:00; Sat 08:00 -24:00; ETHNIC Sun 08:00 - 24:00. (35 - 130kn). A ­P ­G ­T ­B ­S ­V ­ CANTINA MEXICANA CHIHUAHUA 6 ­W This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: siz- zling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs, wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides an SYMBOL KEY ideal alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be they a local looking to shy away from the traditional P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Mediteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit different.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled (+385-) 099 68 52 380/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. Open 16:00 B Outside seating L Guarded parking - 23:00; Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. (55 - 155kn). N ­P ­B ­ E ­S ­V ­W S Take away 6 Pet-friendly W Wifi J Old town location www.inyourpocket.com

14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants MEX CANTINA BONA FIDE ferent things and all dip in. The place itself mirrors the ap- Don’t let the name fool you, they don’t just offer Mexican proach to the food, with a chic modern interior juxtaposed dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is snuggled with outdoor seating in a romantic stepped alley. QB‑2, into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel tables cre- Od Sigurate 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:30 - ating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls. They offer 22:00. (38 - 160kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­J ­6 ­W tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as a wide vari- ety of pizzas and pastas. When you can’t decide between PANTARUL Mexican and Italian, it’s the perfect spot to suit either Located near a road junction in the residential part of La- mood.QB‑2/3, Čubranovićeva 8, tel. (+385-) 097 729 08 pad this is a discreet and unassuming location for some of 19. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (50 - 140kn) €€. A ­P ­G ­X ­ the best food on the Adriatic, combining old Dalmatian T ­U ­B ­S ­J ­6 ­W recipes and fresh local ingredients with a dash of experi- mentation and flair. The menu includes a lot of fish, lamb TAJ MAHAL and duck, garnished with the kind of inventive barley, Although the name might make you think of India this is beans and sweet-sour fruit combinations for which Panta- actually Dubrovnik’s prime Bosnian restaurant, taking the rul is increasingly known. Homely, informal and not wildly hearty grilled meats for which the region is famed and expensive, it’s understandably popular and you should al- turning them into quality sit-down cuisine. Traditional ways reserve.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 ground-meat fare such as ćevapi and pljeskavice are tangy 34 86, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00; closed and succulent; the DžingisKan mixed grill for two provides Mon., From April 21 Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. you with a platter of grill-kebabs and meaty chops that will Closed Mon. (84 - 230kn). A ­P ­G ­T ­S ­L ­W tell you all you need to know about inland Balkan cook- ing. For something less carnivorous, try the flaky pastries PEPPERS EATERY filled with spinach or cheese.QC‑3, Nikole Gučetića 2, Occupying a cute stone house and walled courtyard right tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www. opposite Lapad’s new yachting marina, Peppers offers a tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (90 - broad range of local and international fare in a relaxing 250kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­S ­6 ­W bar-bistro environment. The list of starters includes the TAKENOKO kind of global fare (hummus, bruschettas, chicken satay) Takenoko is Croatia’s oldest and most well-known Japa- that works well as a light lunch; while the mains revolve nese fusion restaurant. Located just outside Dubrovnik’s grilled steak, tuna and lamb choices, alongside the odd stunning Pile Gate, the food aims to give the view a run novelty such as the duck burger. Desserts are excellent for its money. The luxury menu and extensive wine list and Peppers also works well as a drinks bar, with British are not for those on a shoestring—but the sushi and the summertime staples like Pimms and lemonade on offer a ambiance are beyond reproach.QE‑1, Hvarska 2, tel. well as the local tipple.QLapadska obala 20, tel. (+385- (+385 - 20) 69 46 09, www.takenoko.hr/en. From April 20) 48 75 78, www.pepperseatery.com. Open 12:00 - 15 Open 18:00 - 23:30. (87 - 400kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­ 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (70- 190kn). A ­P ­B ­S ­W B ­S ­J ­W ­K PORAT RESTAURANT & BAR Slightly set back from the ferry port at Gruž, Porat serves INTERNATIONAL a Mediterranean-slanted selection of pasta, seafood and GIL’S LITTLE BISTRO game in suave, minimalist surroundings. When it comes ‘Let’s cut in front of you!’ This tiny bistro offers a unique to the fish the emphasis is on what’s fresh from the nearby culinary experience in which you pick your slice of meat market;although the accompanying sauces and spices before it’s prepared. A new concept to restaurants in this may well bea lot more imaginative than what you get in beautiful historic city. The menu offers a wide variety of a more traditional Dalmatian restaurant. Good wine list, steaks, along with truffle based dishes and fresh local oys- and plate-splatteringly wonderful desserts.QH‑1, Obala ters from the nearby city, Ston. The meals are a bit pricey, Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www. but worth it for a heavenly cuisine experience.QC‑2, porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 – 23:00. (70 - 150kn). Petilovrijenci 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 68/(+385-) 098 196 A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­S ­6 ­W ­i 21 36, www.gils.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (90 - 240kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­J ­6 ­W STARA LOZA One of the select few Dubrovnik restaurants to get a rec- LUCIN KANTUN ommendation from Michelin, the Prijeko Palace Hotel’s Another place that gets its inspiration from old-style rustic fine-dining restaurant offers a well-balanced menu of cooking and contemporary global-fusion bistro food, Lu- European classics (from beef tenderloin to local squid), cin Kantun limits itself to a small menu of seasonal goodies beautifully prepared and presented. The starters involve base on fresh ingredients, with fish, seafood and duck well a few notable adventures in global fusion, and the des- represented. They also have a tapas-inspired approach sert list is second to none. For a total blow-out, the multi- which means that you can order several small plates of dif- course tasting menus are well-worth considering. There

16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

are great views from the indoor part of the restaurant and from Korčula which is here served with a choice of beef, the rooftop terrace is quite simply stunning – be sure to shrimp or truffles.QC‑3, Prijeko 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 reserve.QC‑2, Prijeko 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 45, www. 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, www.dalmatino-dubrovnik. prijekopalace.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (100 - 210 kn). com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­ A ­P ­G ­B ­J ­W ­i U ­B ­J ­6 ­W

TAVERNA OTTO KONOBA JEZUITE This charming little taverne has an atmosphere remi- With outdoor seating under the trees opposite the Je- niscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more suit Church, Jezuite offers a tradition-meets-creativity admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and approach to food that will suit the light eater and slap-up excellent food. We especially recommend the spicy pork diner alike. The mains revolve around tried-and-tested ribs, grilled tuna steak and chocolate fondant. But what- fish, chicken and steak options (they will throw game onto ever you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle the menu when they get it fresh) but are all presented 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open with a bit of imagination, with a lot of attention devoted 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. From May Open to getting the right blend of sauces and spices. Given 09:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). A ­P ­G ­T ­ some seriously ambitious desserts, this is a good place to B ­6 ­W push the boat out. QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-20) 30 10 14, www.dubrovnikrestaurant.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­ KONOBA J ­W ­i DALMATINO DUBROVNIK After several years building up a reputation in the alleys KONOBA POPRET south of StradunDalmatino has moved uphill to Prijeko, For a delicious traditional Mediterranean meal, don’t miss where it now has dining rooms on either side of the street. out on a visit to Bistro Popret. They serve homemade pršut, The recipe for success remains the same, with Dalmatian cheese, lamb and octopus, as well as delicious rožata or classics served up with a touch of modern European flair, strudel for dessert. This relaxing atmosphere is located in with a few international dishes thrown in to keep the Gornji Brgat, a small village on a hill 5km from Dubrovnik. more unadventurous tourists happy. One local speciality It’s an ideal spot for large gatherings and celebrations, that you should try is žrnovski makaruli, the tubular pasta such as a confirmation, first communion or small wed-

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 17 Restaurants ding party.QPut Hrvatskih branitelja 40, Gornji Brgat, MEDITERRANEAN tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 63/(+385-) 091 526 77 82. Open ABOVE 5 RESTAURANT 16:00 - 23:00. (18 - 120kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­I ­ Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view E ­S ­L ­6 ­W overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious PJATANCA Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist. Their Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their they are constantly rotating their selections. They also of- advice and you might just get something a little out of the fer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and avocado, ordinary – real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful homemade under an iron bell.QL‑5, Koločepska 2, tel. (+385-) 098 brioche. Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as 938 00 23. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 180kn). A ­G ­X ­ they fill up quickly and space is limited.QB‑2, Od Sigurate T ­B ­W 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.above5rooftop.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (200 - 250kn). A ­T ­B ­J ­W ­i PUPO Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of AMFORA well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as various pasta While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern choices for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting home- a distinct Mediterranean feel – very Roman indeed. Prices made cakes make this value for money - worth visiting. here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, ei- QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, www. ther New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. From May You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). A ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­ in or near the Old City then you should not think twice S ­J ­W ­K about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 ROZARIO 94 19, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little res- Closed Sun. (120 - 250 kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­B ­W taurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking – that’s why you’ll AQUARIUS often find the locals lunching here.QD‑2, Prijeko 1, tel. Location, location! Aquarius is the perfection location for (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50, a restaurant as it is tucked away in a courtyard off the old www.konoba-rozario.hr/contact.html. Open 11:00 - town walls. It even offers a great view of the cable-car and 23:00. (90 - 175kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­S ­J ­i surrounding hills as you can sit out on the open garden terrace. Food wise, Aquarius has a solid seafood offer which includes various sized platters; they also have pas- tas, anti-pastas and grilled meals. The assortment of local BREAKFAST wines adds to the homely feel of this eatery with attentive ORLANDO staff on hand. QMata Vodopića 4, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place 11, www.hotel-aquarius.net. has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and BANJE BEACH RESTAURANT croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured Running along the back of Banje Beach is a combined ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit restaurant-lounge-club with seating set out on decking on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, facing the shore. The menu is broadly international with plenty of lamb, steak and duck, although there’s a pre- Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open dominance of seafood with tuna steaks, prawns and squid 07:30 - 23:00. (65 - 120kn). A ­B ­J ­W setting the tone. It’s also a great place for evening cock- tails; for wave-lapped proximity to the sea there is quite PUPICA simply no equal.QL‑2, Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-20) 41 Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com. could suit almost any European town, city, or village. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). A ­P ­G ­B ­J ­W Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without morning’. So before you get ready CASA to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, The restaurant, which is downstairs from Villa Wolf, is rela- Q toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good! C‑3, tively cheap given the quality of hotel attached, and is very Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. straightforward and entirely Mediterranean in content. It A ­P ­ pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. is situated at the beginning of a must-walk path, trailing G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­J ­6 ­W ­i the coastline around the south-west of the city. The view from the restaurant’s terrace is serene, even allowing for a

18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

few jet-skis, and while everything is but a short walk away GRADSKA KAVANA ARSENAL the area is quite peaceful and relaxed.QG‑2, Nika i Meda In real-estate they say that location is important and this Pucića 1, tel. (+385-20) 43 87 10, www.restaurant-casa. is smack bang off the harbour. Arsenal is open from break- com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 300kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­ fast through to dinner and lives up to its 1895 establish- B ­L ­W ment – ‘classical and irresistible.’ The mains vary pending on produce but there’s always pasta, meats, shellfish and CULTO seafood of sorts. Whether you dine in or out, sip coffee or Looking for something out of the Old Town, head towards take a 3 course meal, Arsenal has the ammo for a perfect the port for a menu to suit everyone’s needy taste buds. experience. QD‑3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 Culto offers scrumptious risotto, pizza, salads, pasta, fish, 02, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. sandwiches, and burgers. Their soups change almost daily (98 - 178kn). A ­P ­G ­B ­J and are a great appetiser. The outdoor terrace is dandy for some outdoor fresh air under cover.QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, GUSTA ME tel. (+385-) 099 321 61 41. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Set on a raised terrace diagonally opposite the Ploče Gate, Sun. (70 - 150kn). A ­P ­T ­B ­L ­W Gusta Me is a good place to work your way through the Adriatic Croatian repertoire of fish, squid and shellfish in a DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ dining room that’s neat and modern rather than forcedly Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac For- folkloric. The house speciality is grilled squid stuffed with tress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterra- ham and mozzarella; other tempting choices include sole nean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast stuffed with prawns, octopus ragout, and pašticada (beef menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste, cooked in plums and red wine). QE‑1, Hvarska bb, tel. such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustame-dubrovnik.com. such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, Open 11:00 - 23:00, From May Open 08:30 - 24:00. (70 - such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an addition- 200kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­S ­6 ­W al bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants. Read more reviews online: com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­ U ­B ­W ­i dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 19 Restaurants KLARISA LACROMA There are few places in Dubrovnik that have such a grand On old wooden shack dating back to the Austro-Hungarian setting and remain affordable at the same time. With period was restored to create this sleek,design-conscious tables spread across the awesome arcaded courtyard of restaurant that looks out on the lush greenery of Lokrum, the former Convent of St Claire, Klarisa is well suited to a the nature-reserve island just south of the city. Sea bass, large group meal or an intimate dinner for two. The menu tuna steak and some excellent steaks are the main stars of is a broad-based affair that runs from pizzas to fillet steaks, the menu the Croatia-wide wine list will take quite some so you are sure to find something for everyone. Traditional getting through. QLokrum island, tel. (+385-) 098 345 Dubrovnik desserts like Rožata and Orange and Almond 085, www.lacroma.restaurant. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (100 Cake are well worth sticking around for. QB‑2, Poljana - 200kn). A ­T ­B ­W Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, www.klarisa- dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 220kn). LAJK A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­I ­E ­J ­6 ­W Central within the Old City, Lajk is so likeable that you can choose to dine in or out or for breakfast through to dinner. KOMARDA Your morning glory meal (08-12) includes eggs, spreads, A wonderful location by the water’s edge right by the old bruschetta, crepes, croissants, omelettes and more. Lunch part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with and dinner have Dalmatian written all over it; octopus plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediter- salad, carpaccio, tuna steak, turkey medallions, Pag lamb ranean cooking and a great view of the city walls.QL‑2, chops and the list goes on. Service with a smile and fair on Ulica Frane Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, www. the pocket!QPrijeko 4, tel. (+385) 20 32 17 24, www.lajk- restaurant-komarda.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - restaurant-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 14:00 18:00 - 150kn). A ­P ­X ­T ­B ­W 22:00. (120-260kn). A ­T ­B ­6 ­W

LA CAPELLA MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR Straight out of the movies this restaurant, which is part If you’re looking for a restaurant to eat at while you’re out- of the 5 Star Pucić Palace Hotel, is situated on a first floor side of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place terrace and would have to be the first choice pick for any to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a anniversary dinner, or valentine’s rendezvous. The menu, bit of America to this ancient European city. They offer while far from cheap, is nevertheless impressive, and fea- tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City. tures cuisine from Croatia, Italy, Spain, and the Middle East, Their menu includes something to suit everyone’s taste, the latter three, of course, having had some historical influ- from salads and pizza to pasta and grilled steaks. Find ence within the region in centuries past.QC‑3, Od Puča menu on their Facebook page: Mezzanave.QI‑2, Dr. Ante 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 08, www.thepucicpalace.com. Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, www.mezzanave. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (180 - 450kn). A ­P ­X ­T ­U ­B ­ com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­ J ­6 ­W U ­B ­S ­V ­L ­6 ­W

Konoba Jezuite Archives Dalmatino Restaurant Archives

20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Restaurants NAUTIKA Open 09:00 - 20:00. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. June Open The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 182kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­B ­W overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. POKLISAR Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surround- The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a ings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Du- popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple brovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, pasta dish or salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (510 piano-bar music in the evenings adds a touch of romance - 900kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­B ­J ­W to the proceedings.QD‑2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76, www.poklisar.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (80 - ORKA MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE 220kn). A ­P ­G ­T ­U ­B ­E ­J ­W Lapad’sharbour-facing shore is enjoying something of a boom thanks to the construction of the new marina, and POSAT Orka is another fine excuse to head out that way. Seafood Positioned on hillside terraces just above Pile Gate, Posat has and pasta dishes are served in an elegant first-floor din- been one of Dubrovnik’s gastronomic stalwarts for decades ing room (think bare stone walls, wooden beams, rack – although it is in recent years that it has been elevated to upon rack of wine and a fish tank), and there’s a secluded the fine dining league. The place prides itself on fresh fish, outdoor terrace at the back. Fresh fish and seafood stews crabs and prawns; this is one place where it might be worth are the standouts; everything is neatly presented and splashing out on the grilled fresh catch. Diners are rewarded the desserts are a knock-out.QH‑2, Lapadska obala 11, with magnificent views of Dubrovnik’s walls, perfect for tel. (+385-) 099 690 33 34, www.orka-restaurant.com. an evening of relaxed culinary indulgence.QK‑3, Uz posat Open 08:00 - 23:00 . (180 - 290kn). A ­P ­B ­W ­i 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 11 94, www.posat-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (170 - 270kn). A ­P ­G ­B ­J PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR Sited at the top station of the cable car and offering abso- RESTAURANT HORIZONT lutely fabulous views of the city and the surrounding coast, This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn you might be forgiven for thinking tat Panorama is a bit of stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an a tourist trap. In fact it’s a more than respectable restau- amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour. rant that maintains high standards of food and service and They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as tradition- doesn’t leave you out of pocket. Fish and steaks top the al cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but also Istria, menu price-wise but there are plenty of pasta, risotto and such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef Tenderloin in salad options for those who want a lighter bite. With cakes a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious slice of Chocolate and cocktails too, it functions as café and bar as well as res- Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a small taste of para- taurant. Sunsets are highly popular; always make a reserva- dise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. tion. QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 (+385-20) 35 83 68, www.restaurant-horizont.com. Open 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com. 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 200kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­S ­L ­W

Klarisa Restaurant Archives

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 21 Restaurants SESAME PAPARAZZO STEAKHOUSE Dining at Sesame is a tale to be told, a 200 year old stone One of the newest editions to the Old City, they offer an house surrounded by natures greenery and a mere 5 min- array of delicious grilled meats, such as Croatian Beef Fillet ute walk from the Old Town. Once you enter, the décor Steak, Croatian Veal T-bone and USA Black Angus Striploin takes you on a journey of this grand city whilst the culinary in a charming and cozy environment. Located away from scents begin to override your visual senses. The food is all the main hustle and bustle of the town, enjoy a tasty meal sourced locally and the sous-vide method of preparing in this peaceful setting.QD‑4, Pobijana 2, tel. (+385-20) vegetables is used. They bake 3 types of homemade bread 48 49 78, www.paparazzo.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (120 - each day and the pastry chef makes fresh pasta daily. The 250kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­J ­6 ­W ­i menu consists of cold/hot appetizers to sensual mains; get a hold of slow-baked lamb with seasonal vegetables, beefsteak with truffles or the trio of lamb shoulder, loin PIZZA&PASTA and ribs with pea puree. The fish specialties include sea BARACUDA bass fillet with vanilla and fennel sauce, tuna tartar, con- Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie fit and baked with seasonal vegetables, salmon fillet with as big as your tummy surrounded by religious landmarks lobster sauce and more. Choose from eating in or out on in the heart of the Old Town!QB/C‑3, Nikole Božidarevića the terrace with a glass of wine or an in house dessert to 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Open top that main!QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieri 2, tel. +(385-20) 41 11:00 - 22:00, From June Open 11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 29 10, www.sesame.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60-200 kn). 120kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­U ­B ­S ­W A ­P ­T ­B ­S ­J ­6 ­W MEA CULPA VAPOR Long-standing old-town pizzeria that has kept its stan- A Micheline Guide Restaurant (recommended by Michelin dards high, with tables filling a broad alley that runs guide for the third year in a row). For classy Mediterranean alongside an open-air cinema. Mea Culpa’s thin-crust pies food in a suave but soothing environment there are few come in a range of traditional flavours as well as modern better places than Vapor, just below the lobby area of the improvisations – the kebab pizza might appeal to some, newley refurbished Bellevue Hotel. It commands superb while the Mea Culpa pizza goes for lashings of Gorgonzola views of neighbouring cliffs and the open sea – and if you cheese. There is also the (nowadays inevitable) Nutella have your heart set on one of the outside tables, be sure pizza, and a vegetarian lasagne for those who need to give to make a reservation. The menu applies just the right the meat a rest. QB‑3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 amount of creativity to classic local ingredients, with deli- 30, www.meaculpa-pizzeria.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. cate risottos, white fish in delectable sauces, and exquisite (70 - 210kn). A ­P ­G ­B ­S ­J ­W desserts among the many highlights. Service is as smooth and courteous as you would expect.QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 7, PASTA LAB tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/ Feeling creative! Pastalicious is the key word here where en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/ hungry patrons get to pick and choose the fresh ingre- vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. (105 dients and sauce available which is then added to the - 950kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­E ­L ­W ­i chosen pasta and prepared in front of you. Quick, easy and tasty! Grilled chicken, sausage, shrimp, tuna, beef WANDA and more to choose from! If you like spicy, get the Ara- You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’ back to this lovely tradi- biata sauce… Pizzas of all sizes are on the menu as well tional restaurant that is packed with tasty meat and fish as something for our vegetarian lovers too. Located just dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese, octopus salad, off Stradun in the Old Town, its perfect for that stop off calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine are aligned you need. QC‑2, Vetranićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality service, a www.fastfood-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from Stradun. (38-75 kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­S ­J ­W QB‑2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/(+385-) 098 944 93 18, www.wandarestaurant.com. Open 11:00 TABASCO - 22:00. (70 - 290kn). P ­G ­B The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s cer- tainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the im- mediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between MEET THE MEAT the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, de- DOMINO STEAK HOUSE livery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded A serious convention centre for carnivores of varying terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists tastes, offering steaks, fish and seafood in a multitude of pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.QB‑3, is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a, Od Domina 3, www.restaurantdomino-dubrovnik. tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www.pizzeriatabasco.hr. Open com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). A ­P ­G ­T ­U ­ 09:30 - 23:00, From May Open 09:30 - 24:00. A ­P ­G ­ B ­J ­6 ­W X ­T ­B ­S ­V ­W

22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants TRATTORIA ORSAN Lurking at the back of the newly-landscaped Sunset Beach The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputa- complex in Lapad Bay, this oblong box of a building hous- tion as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good es a large bar-restaurant with an Italian theme, serving quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on traditional-style pizzas. They also do bruschettas, salads, seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts pastas and burgers, plus inexpensive lunchtime specials in and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, the shoulder season. There’s an adjoining café-patisserie Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurant- with some rather fine cakes. Freshly-squeezed juice and orsan-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). Korlat aged brandies add class to the drinks list. QG‑2, A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­6 ­W ­i Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Lapad Bay), tel. (+385-) 020 64 27 00, www.sunsetbeachdubrovnik.com. Open OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA 08:00 - 23:00, Fri and Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and 24:00. (40 - 110kn). A ­P ­T ­U ­B ­S ­L ­W it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is ev- ery bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful SEAFOOD in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself BARBA is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oys- quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, ters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb, all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 12:00 - relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. 23:00. (28 - 135kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­B ­J ­6 ­W (+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 - 69kn). A ­P ­G ­T ­S ­J ­W STREET FOOD FISH RESTAURANT PROTO BISTRO 49 Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark This Bistro oozes street food for almost everyone’s taste… of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly Open from breakfast to dinner, and open for a quick coffee blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The through to a complete all out dinner, you can choose as menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce you wish especially as its location is opposite the Gruž har- and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest bour, a major transit point. The menu personifies every- Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from a thing from seafood to grilled meats and burgers. Vegans bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tourism re- and gluten free options exist too. The craft beers and local naissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, www. wines offer a typical Adriatic feel to your all round experi- esculaprestaurants.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00; . (150 - ence at Bistro 49. QObala Ivana Pavla II 49, tel. (+385-20) 250kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­U ­B ­W 89 10 38. Open 08:00 - 23:00. A ­B ­V ­W

KAMENICE BUFFET ŠKOLA Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) with home baked bread.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385- 32 36 82. Open 08:00 - 22:00, From July Open 08:00 - 20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 08:00 - 24:00. 24:00. (50 - 140kn). A ­U ­B ­J (26 - 30kn). N ­P ­G ­U ­B ­S ­J ­W

LEVANAT BURGER TIGER This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their spe- well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in cialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a poten- one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the nar- tial wait of up to an hour. However the views from the ter- row street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect raced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF‑2, Nika night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52/(+385-) 098 Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood- 995 71 78, www.restaurant-levanat.com. Open 08:00 - dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (44-85kn). A ­P ­ 24:00. A ­P ­G ­X ­B ­W G ­X ­T ­B ­S ­J ­W

24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

TUTTO BENE A fast food joint with several branches throughout the OUT OF TOWN city, Tutto Bene goes about things with a bit of class and attention to detail. The tortillas and sandwiches come in a few local-ingredient versions, and there are some out-of- CAVTAT the-ordinary burgers too: Piggy Black contains Slavonian BUGENVILA IN CAVTAT pork, and there is a lamb version too.QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel. A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com. waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 85kn). A ­U ­J ­W the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they VEGETARIAN use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal home- NISHTA grown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing. haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegan An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, www. soups, salad bar and much more. Enjoy the local wines, bugenvila.eu. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30. (90 - beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot 370kn). A ­T ­B ­L ­W of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss LEUT out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, One of the best places to try quality local cooking in www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very cen- Sun. (58 - 108kn). A ­G ­X ­B ­S ­J ­W tre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, Read more reviews online: tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, www. restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com A ­P ­G ­U ­B ­W

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 25 Restaurants ists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, www.konobaadiomare. hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­B ­J ­6 ­W

ZURE If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lum- barda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+385- 20) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 180kn). A ­G ­X ­U ­B ­6 ­W

LASTOVO TRITON Photo by Višnja Arambašić A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish car- TORANJ paccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor made Mediterranean herb rakija – it’s all the stuff of seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine. 61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, www.triton.hr. Open 08:00 - Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in 24:00. (60 - 200kn). N ­G ­X ­B ­W ­i the menu, although there’s a solid choice of seafood pasta dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for METKOVIĆ the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starčevića 18, Cavtat, tel. VILLA NERETVA (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 099 434 12 03. Open 12:00 - A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva 24:00. (80 - 130kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­U ­B ­6 ­W delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose KONAVLE from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dal- matian pašticada – beef in sauce with prunes and gnocci. KONOBA KORAĆEVA KUĆA QSplitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 Located on a sprawling property only a short drive from Du- 00/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. brovnik, Koraćeva kuća offers stunning views, great meals and Open 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 120kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­ rustic yet chic accommodation. The humble menu sources I ­E ­S ­L ­6 ­W home-grown organic ingredients to create southern Dalma- tian specialties favoured by locals and visitors alike. Enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and soak in the best the region has to MLINI offer.QGruda, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 57/(+385- ) 099 334 10 LEUT 00. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (100 - 200kn). A ­T ­B ­L ­6 ­W Fancy a bite, Leut is a fine-dining restaurant within the Sheraton Hotel which dines guests both indoors and NATIONAL RESTAURANT KONAVOSKI DVORI outdoors as it has lovely garden and sea views for those Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta warm evenings. Leut serves genuine local and interna- (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and tional delicacies and the spread they put on for breakfast feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) is grandiose. With an impressive list of premium wines served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You from Croatia and beyond, one can really feel at home here may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. with the world at your plate. QŠetalište Dr. F. Tuđmana QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 17 (Sheraton Dubrovnik Riviera Hotel), Srebreno, tel. 251 71 58, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 12:00 - (+385-20) 60 15 00, www.dubrovnik-riviera-hotels.hr. 24:00. (100 - 130kn). A ­G ­X ­B ­L ­W Open 06:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 22:00. KORČULA LOKAL - ONE SUITE HOTEL As part of the One Suite Hotel in Mlini, Lokal is a bar/cafe ADIO MARE that oozes class and creativity intertwined. From 7:00 to Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco 12:00 they offer top quality breakfast and brunch. The menu Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt is totally based on organic and seasonal ingredients form lo- to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tour- cal producers. There is gluten free to vegetarian dishes, fresh 26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

juices, organic teas, homebrewed coffee, croissants; eggs KAPETANOVA KUĆA prepped to your choice, pancakes and other delights. And if Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this you’re not peckish, simply chill in the bar with beverages and restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to cocktails from this top notch establishment! QŠetalište dr. try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of Franje Tuđmana 1, Mlini, tel. (+385 - 20) 22 22 22, www. the sheltered terrace.QMali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 onesuitehotel.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, www.ostrea.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (80 - 125kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­L ­W PELJEŠAC VILA KORUNA D’ORO BAR&GRILL The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, Food to put you in the mood! D’oro Bar&Grill exemplifies Medi- cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms terranean food with its local offer. One can expect fresh sea- and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art food, catch of the day, anti-pasta dishes with olives, prosciutto, features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. cheese etc. The beers and wines are refreshingly chilled, and Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. probably best of all is the location; a covered terrace right on the (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, www.vila- beachfront overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. Definitely a koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). A ­P ­G ­ place to chill and be thrilled!QTrstenik, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) X ­U ­B ­L ­J ­W 85 25 85. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (90-160kn). A ­B ­W

STON ZATON ORSAN GVEROVIĆ BOTA ŠARE This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since open- shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present ing in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass Q sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters. that grows at the edge of the sea. Štikovica 42, Zaton Excellent.QMali Ston bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 82/ Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www. (+385-) 091 175 44 79, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 - gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn). 20:00. (80 - 130kn). A ­P ­G ­X ­B ­L ­W A ­G ­X ­B ­L ­6 ­W

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 27 Coffee & Cakes COFFEE CAKES CAFÉ FESTIVAL DOLCE VITA This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where lo- This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and cal bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, ice cream – among the best in town – just off Stradun. literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/ light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t (+385-) 098 944 99 51. Open 09:00 - 22:00. N ­P ­B be better.QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www. cafefestival.com. A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­6 ­W MALA TRUBA Dubbed by locals as one of the best places to get a CELE nibble, the ‘Mala truba patisserie’ (meaning ‘little Perfectly positioned at the eastern end of the Stradun, trumpet’) is a cute little store filled with delicious within spitting distance of St Blaise’s Church and the pastries, freshly baked bread, sandwiches, cakes, tarts Sponza Palace, this is arguably the best-situated café in the and a world of eatable delights. Lucija Tomašić, a cake city, and attracts hoards of tourists to its terrace as a result. master who studied at the prestigious school Le Cor- It’s also the place where locals come for Saturday-morning don Bleu in London uses fresh local ingredients and coffee if they are early enough to snatch a table. Pizzas, attention to detail is seen in all her crafty foods. The burgers, salads and nachos adorn an extensive food menu concept is ‘good to go’ so you’ll take your supplies if you’re hungry. QC‑2, Placa 1, tel. (+385 - ) 099 423 04 out to eat! QI‑2, Vukovarska 22 (Mercante Centar), 00, www.cele-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. (60 - Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 130kn). A ­B ­S ­J ­W ­i Closed May 25 - June 10. N COGITO COFFEE SHOP PASTRY & COCKTAIL BAR SLATKI KANTUN In an arched passageway near the maritime museum, Another string to the Hotel More’s ever expanding this cute semi-hidden gem is the place to go for people bow, Slatki Kantun (“Sweet Corner”) is a swish and who are serious about their coffee. With beans supplied inviting café-patisserie positioned just above the by the Cogito coffee-roasting outfit in Zagreb, the cup- hotel’s outdoor swimming pool, facing out towards pas that come out of this place are reliably strong, full of Lapad Bay. The sumptuous array of cakes and pastries flavour and carefully prepared by a trained barista. The includes some exquisite cheesecakes and souffles, al- place itself is tiny, but seats outside on the cobbles make though it’s the “chocolate bomb” with forest fruits that it an altogether charming place to recharge. Cold coffee looks set to induce most in the way of dessert delirium. and fresh fruit juice also served. Q​​​​​​​ D‑4, Stajeva 5, www. With a respectable list of alcoholic drinks and cocktails, cogitocoffee.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00; . A it’s a rather neat place from which to observe the sun- set glinting off the waves.QF‑2, Nike i Meda Pucića, FASHION CAFÉ 13, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.hotel-more.hr. In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who Open 10:00 - 18:00. A ­P ­B ­W ­C know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the oc- casional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of din- PEPPINO’S ICE CREAM ner plates are mandatory.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open Ice cream is getting better in Dubrovnik and Peppino’s 07:00 - 24:00. A ­P ­G ­X ­B ­6 ­W is one of the reasons why, with a great range of creamy flavours (from crowd-pleasing Ferrero Rocher to more LIBERTINA (LUĆI) niche flavours like pistaccio an hazelnut) sold from a Cosy, snug, intimate – all words to describe some place small shop right behind the Stradun. It’s available in small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within cornets or tubs at 15kn per scoop. QC‑3, Od Puča 9, the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened spe- tel. (+385-) 091 459 00 02, www.peppinos.premis. cifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. N ­W Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list PUPICA of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00. G ­X ­B ­6 ­W coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a SOUL CAFFE relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim just to stop by and sample yet another slice of what- atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night ever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seat- (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik.com. ing outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls. Open 07:00 - 20:00. From May Open 07:00 - 22:00. QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. From A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­U ­B ­J ­6 ­W ­i April 20 Open 08:00 - 02:00. A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­E ­J ­ 6 ­W ­i

28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife BEHIND THE BAR Whilst you venture Dubrovnik streets, you might bump into Nikša Beloč, Head Bartender at The Imperial Bar & Lounge, who will tell us a little about the Imperial Bar & Lounge and its offer.

DIYP: Please tell us a little about yourself, who are you and what do you do? Nikša: I would characterise myself as very private, humble and highly professionally-oriented. Active, always cooking something, testing, trying out new things, a foodie. I’m al- ways smiling, I love contact with people and, most impor- tantly, I love my job! The Imperial Bar&Lounge, Hilton Imperial Archive DIYP: When did you first stand behind a bar and de- cide to become a bartender? schools I came across a picture of a man in a white coat Nikša: I first decided to become a cook, but as I came with bartending equipment and an eprouvette containing closer to finishing my training I started to show an ever some kind of red liquid. It was of the Nekić barology cock- increasing interest in the bar segment. The reason behind tail studio in Zagreb, and the man in the picture, now my this was my trip to a bartending competition in Macedo- colleague and friend, was Saša Lovrenščak. Then followed 5 nia for European high school students studying tourism. months of socialising, learning, testing and getting to know I came last, but afterwards realised that this was my call- other people in the industry. When I returned to Dubrovnik ing. However, I considered I had to train myself up before I found a job in the Hilton Imperial hotel where I first stood standing behind a bar. So, while searching for courses and behind a bar and where I am proud to say I still work today.

The Imperial Bar&Lounge, Hilton Imperial Archive

30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Nightlife DIYP: What, in your opinion, is the definition of a good renovation the bar has gained a breath of glamour in a bar? space in which guests feel relaxed and special. We always Nikša: I consider that there are certain standards beneath look ahead, we want to be better, we listen and take note which no bar should fall in order to be classified as good. of constructive criticism. In keeping with the bar’s story, the Starting from the theme of the bar, the décor, the atmos- cocktail menu is inspired by Shaw’s Book of Cocktails which phere in the bar, the quality of the ingredients, the stand- was published in 1897, the year when the hotel was built, ards of hygiene (which I consider really important), and, and we have included cocktails which date back to before most importantly, great staff. None of the things I have 1900. Apart from historically-inspired cocktails our guests mentioned can compare with a person, their competence can also order modern classics, but we’re particularly happy to present everything I have mentioned and to transform to create new cocktails with their favourite ingredients or their bar into your new favourite spot. It’s important to find drinks. Also, we’re famous for our Imperial Afternoon Tea, an staff who have the enthusiasm to learn and to strive for English tea-drinking ritual with savoury and sweet snacks. ever increasing levels of quality. DIYP: Where do you like to go out in Dubrovnik when DIYP:The Imperial Bar and Lounge has a long history. you have the evening off? Do you have any interesting stories about the bar, and Nikša: It depends what mood I am in, but one of my fa- what would you say are the best things about the bar vourites is definitely Lokal Bar In One. Especially on Thurs- today? Can you drink the same cocktails in the bar to- days when they have their “Mix&Mingle” events. There’s a day that people drank 100 years ago? great atmosphere, excellent offering of food and drink and Nikša: I have already mentioned the standards beneath of course, excellent bar staff. A concept which I like very which a good bar should not slip. I can say that The Impe- much is the Gin&Jazz evenings which we organise in the rial Bar and Lounge has throughout its history been and Hilton. Live music, excellent gin, cocktails and a wonderful remains a good bar and a favourite meeting spot both for atmosphere are attracting ever more guests, and if I wasn’t the people of Dubrovnik and for visitors. With last year’s behind the bar I would definitely be among them.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 20192018 31 Nightlife BARS THE BAR BY AZUR A new venture from the team that run the Azur restaurant, BUŽA this roomy (at least by Dubrovnik Old-Town standards) What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open bar on two levels features cool matt-black stylings and sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here comfy chairs in pop-art colours. Creative cocktails are so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for every- Azur’s strongpoint; there’s also a big choice of gins, and a thing.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s respectable range of craft brews – including tasty sipping tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 09:00 - 22:00 or beers from Zagreb’s Garden and Zmajsko stables.QK‑3, according to weather conditions. X ­B Kunićeva 5, tel. (+385-20) 45 44 77, www.azurvision. com. Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. G ­J BUZZ BAR Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of THE IMPERIAL BAR & LOUNGE drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the Dubrovnik’s Hotel Imperial remembers the days when town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list Britain’s King Edward VIII danced here with Wallis Simp- of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croa- son in the hotel gardens. Reflagged as Hilton in 2005, the tian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grička Vještica, Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik has preserved its 19th century an extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they architectural features and façade. Spring 2018 renovation, host live music nights.QC‑2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 was used as an opportunity to rebrand hotel’s bar to The 10 25. Open 08:00-02:00. P ­X ­U ­B ­E ­J ­6 ­W Imperial Bar & Lounge preserving hotels rich heritage and combining it with modern comforts and luxuries. The CASABLANCA BAR Imperial Bar & Lounge has become one of the city’s best One of several bars squeezed together on this old-town loved meeting spots and is a place to enjoy expertly craft- stepped street, Casablanca is the one that makes most ed contemporary, historic and signature cocktails, such as of an effort, backing up a rather fine selection of drinks, Milk Punch.QUlica Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 shots and cocktails with a pumping collection of DJ- 03 20, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Open 08:00-24:00. driven tunes. As the sister-bar of the Revelin nightclub A ­P ­B ­W it’s the warm-up venue of choice for the city’s clubbers, and generates a sufficient party atmosphere of its own for those who just don’t have the energy to budge.QC‑2, Ul. CLUBS Zamanjina 7. Open Fri, Sat 20:00-02:00. J CULTURE CLUB REVELIN Back in the day, the 15th century Revelin Fortress used to GLAM BEER THERAPY protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home Not much bigger than a cupboard but still one of the more to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often welcoming and versatile bars in the Old Town, thanks in jam-packed with punters dancing to local and interna- large part to its dedication to stocking a wide choice of tional music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh beers. Most Croatian craft brewers are represented, and air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort there are few rare international oddities too. It’s situated Revelin), www.clubrevelin.com. Open Sat 23:00 - 06:00. right opposite the D’Vino wine bar so there’s nothing to A ­P ­W stop you mixing your drinks and mingling in the narrow street in-between. QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:00- 02:00. N ­P ­G ­B ­J ­6 ­W LAZARETI These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house NONE NINA are given over to happenings of an arty/underground na- A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right ture, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An inter- opposite the Rector’s Palace – you can see people climbing national multimedia festival is held here, which includes about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana the fairy people.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 Supila bb, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 915 99 09. Open 09:00-02:00. A ­P ­B ­E ­W 05:00.

ROCK CAFFE EXIT This legendary old-town bar draws loyal locals through- PUBS out the winter and all-sorts in summer. It consists of a DUBROVNIK BEER COMPANY TAP ROOM long first-floor room and doesn’t have any outside terrace, Opened in spring 2018, the Dubrovnik Beer Company’s tap giving it the intimate but smoky feel of a real big-city bar. room occupies the front end of the industrial unit where The walls are covered with album covers and pop-star they actually brew the beer, but still manages to feel like photos, while Rock with a capital R (mostly heavy rather a convivial and welcoming bar. Their own excellent beers than indy) blasts out of the speakers. Refresh yourself with (including lager-like Maestral, the Pale Ale-ishFortunal Pan pivo on tap and a few craft beers in the fridge.QC‑2, and Grego stout) are all available on tap, along with guest Boškovićeva 4. Open 18:00 - 02:00. N ­P ­X ­E ­J ­W beers from other independent brewers. It’s well off the

32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Nightlife tourist beaten path and well worth the trip. QObala 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com. Pape Ivana Pavla II 15, tel. (+385-) 095 901 4054, www. Open 09:00-02:00. A ­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­J ­W dubrovackapivovara.hr. Open 19:00-01:00; closed Sat, Sun. WINE BARS GAFFE PUB LA BODEGA DUBROVNIK For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night, thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger Stradun, by day.QD‑3, Lučarica 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 95 beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you 55, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00-02:00. A ­P ­X ­ get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken B ­J ­6 ­W Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52. Open 09:00 - 02:00. A ­P ­G ­X ­B ­J ­6 ­W RAZONODA WINE BAR This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest IRISH PUB KARAKA additions to the Old Town. It’s part of the Pucić Palace Located a stone’s throw from the Stradunbut tucked into Hotel and has a refined and gentlemen’s club feel. They an intimate alley, this alien presence in the ancient Croa- offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region tian city has actually turned out to be one of its more en- in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavo- during nightlife landmarks. Karaka (a Dubrovnik word for a nia in the northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut, traditional sailing ship that also sounds a lot like the Irish cheese or marinated anchovies. There’s also plenty of term Craic;the name couldn’t have been better chosen) unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try, such found a successful formula and stuck to it: neat and cosy as craft beer from Croatian Garden brewery, cocktails and interior, good service, welcoming staff, well-kept beers (in- an array of domestic liquors brands.QC‑3, Od puča 1, cluding Guinness, O’Hara’s and Erdinger) and lots and lots tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 04. Open 12:00-24:00. A ­P ­ of international big-screen sport. QC‑2, Između polača G ­W

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 33 SightseeingSightseeing ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the divid- SAMOSTAN) ing line between the earliest settlement and the parts The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek century later, they became an important part of the city’s for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balus- 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco- trades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strate- Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – gic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456- “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th cen- 1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The in- tury, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated terior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2. a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA) important library and collection of art including a painting Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is per- of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master haps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by lo- reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as impor- cal artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonder- tant works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac ful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Ba- 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 roque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was 22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/20 kn. also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model LOKRUM ISLAND of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of the setting for some of the most important events of the island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sun cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the 07:00 - 13:00. No admission. monastery here was founded in the 11th century, appar- ently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximil- GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA ian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA) and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star are among the best preserved and most attractive on this shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The de- have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385-) 099 254 67 77, www. fences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes from the The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in Old Town Port depending on the season, the amount of places shows their primary purpose as defence against at- visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact tack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Em- the office for further information. A return ticket costs pire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls 150kn per person, for kids under the age of 15, 25kn. were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only STRADUN, PLACA fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll that they would respect its independence. Two further often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a head- see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the land just west of the Old Town, provided additional stra- main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to tegic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional perfor- its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque build- mances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket ings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s

34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR) and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress hous- him to these quarters which he could only leave on official es the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the occasions and religious holidays. The building changed fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Mi- ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with chelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see were added in baroque style in the 17th century following reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik. della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30. From June Open 08:00 - 19:30. in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is time- lessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful col- Admission 200/50 kn. onnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Art- MALE BRAĆE) works, costumes and domestic objects of the period are The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is all on display. QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Unified mu- frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden seum ticket (see the box below). where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the old- est one still working. The monastery houses a museum UNIFIED MUSEUM TICKET where you can see original items from the pharmacy, Unified ticket costing 130kn for plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manu- adults and 50kn for students scripts, a large collection of musical notations and a trea- and pupils includes entry to sury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers Rector’s Palace, Maritime Mu- on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on seum, Ethnographic Museum a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeo- to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man! logical exhibit, House of Marin Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. Držić, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Natural QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca. History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission Pulitika Studio. 30/15 kn.

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing

MUSEUMS War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK) the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage. (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 08:00 - 20:00; , From Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of May Open 08:00 - 21:00. Admission 30kn. Children un- pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection der 12 free. of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to ev- eryone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ) the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC‑4, growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www.pmd.hr. most important museums. The display of models of the Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Uni- fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy fied museum ticket (see page 36). tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAF- the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Mu- SKI MUZEJ RUPE) seum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see page 36). this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual develop- MUSEUM OF MODERN ART DUBROVNIK ment of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give (UMJETNIČKA GALERIJA DUBROVNIK) the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still cel- ebrated.QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Unified mu- the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian mod- seum ticket (see page 36). ern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century. HOMELAND WAR MUSEUM QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www. The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent momad.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified exhibition dedicated to Dubrovnik during the Homeland museum ticket (see page 36). facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 37 Sightseeing THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MA- THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RON- RINA DRŽIĆA) ALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA This picturesque gothic town house is the place where DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one KUĆA RONALD BROWN) of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gal- a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included lery with some of the finest views in Europe – the windows sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik govern- The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are fa- ment, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is mous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birth- a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequent- place has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of ed attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed building was repaired and renovated by the US Govern- at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. ment and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej- Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Unified Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) museum ticket (see page 36). 61 26 45, www.momad.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see page 36). THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINA- GOGA I ŽIDOVSKI MUZEJ) THE PULITIKA STUDIO The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after As you stroll around the Old Town make sure to visit this Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which studio located in the very City walls. The former private art could be reached from within the surrounding houses in studio owned by one of Croatia’s most famous contem- what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish porary artists, Đuro Pulitika, has been converted into an community here was founded at the end of the 15th cen- exhibition space and is one of three homes to the city’s tury following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The Museum of Modern Art (MoMa). It houses a plethora of community flourished and included respected doctors, artworks dedicated to this grand city and its citizens span- merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik ning centuries!QE‑3, St.John Fortress, tel. (+385-20) enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restric- 32 31 04, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 15:00. tions on their activities at certain points in history. The Closed Mon. Unified museum ticket (see page 36). Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA) contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, information on the history of the Jewish community in with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and re- Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04. naissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly Open 09:00 - 15:00. Admission 50kn. facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of pub- lic life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here. GALLERIES It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibi- A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret – the former quarantine tion space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you houses – which now houses an artists’ community, includ- enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during ing workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 15:00. From an excellent standard.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) May Open10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galler- 32 46 33. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admis- ies were once the place where the city’s artists and intel- sion free. lectuals held salons. The building also contains the Du- brovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation THE ATELIER OF DUBRAVKA LOŠIĆ on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you The Atelier of Dubravka Lošić provides art lovers with can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives a peak into the mind and soul of one of Dubrovnik’s themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, premier modern artists. Ms. Lošić combines several Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, www.dad. mediums and artistic genres: painting, installation hr. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. From May pieces and costume design. The Atelier is housed in an Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free. From May admis- industrial space and features some of her ongoing proj- sion 25kn. ects. Visits are available by appointment only.QObala Stjepana Radića 2, tel. (+385-) 91 439 13 53, www. dubravkalosic.com. www.inyourpocket.com

38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing

WAR PHOTO LIMITED DUBROVNIK AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ DU- A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war BROVNIK) by leading photographers – essential for anyone inter- Located in St. John’s Fortress, this underwater world is a ested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere, sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna. The (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses - 16:00. From May 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 50/40 kn. and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. From June Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 60/20 LANDMARKS kn. BONINOVO CLIFFS It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic ter- a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as races equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a ‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards pass- panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The low- ing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now popu- er station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street lated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other. also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spec- in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you tacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either 93, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the May Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 -24:00. Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down Round-trip ticket 150/60 kn. along the coastline.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 39 Sightseeing GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA) ORSULA PARK This square is named after the long-haired chappie stand- There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all ing in the centre – one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik states- the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this man and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to century St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, res- ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Associa- taurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the tion saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also mornings.QC/D‑3. gained a new summer stage for concerts of various do- mestic and international musical performers, who will play ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www. (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA) parkorsula.du-hr.net. One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUŽA Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen wa- ZVONARA) ter taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers. east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that archi- men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up tects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia. green colour is a result of their copper composition rather Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individually, Maro and Baro, earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dol- bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one phins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stra- dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The dun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master crafts-

St. Blaise Festival in February, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Igor Brautović

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man famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom. trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose (VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA) to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered har- is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church. bour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a steps and balustrades – it’s a fine sight to see the theatre- good meal.QD/E‑2/3. goers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1. THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone build- THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA) ings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Du- Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is brovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the secu- when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is rity offered by the island which lay where the southern half one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impres- of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the sive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural rest- ing point on the maritime trade routes that existed even humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and DJ parties.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

TOP SIGHTS

BAĆINA LAKES (BAĆINSKA JEZERA) Located between Makarska and Dubrovnik, near the city Ploče, in a small town called Baćina, the gorgeous Baćina Lakes are surrounded by magnificent mountains and beautiful landscapes. Although they are located near to the Adriatic Sea, the seven lakes, called Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko, are freshwater lakes. However salty water can be found at the bottom of the deepest lake, Crniševo.QBaćina, Ploče. Mljet Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Meha BUKOVAC HOUSE (KUĆA BUKOVAC) A highlight of a trip to Cavtat, where one of the best- loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Buko- vac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contem- porary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one. Narona Archaeological Museum Archives, Photo by Marin Veraja QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www. kuca-bukovac.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Admission 30kn. Salt Festival, Ston Tourist Board Archives

METKOVIĆ NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Over 340 stuffed animals, amongst which 218 birds and 310 species that have been recorded in the Neretva River Delta, are shown at this beautiful and modern museum. The permanent exhibition features the richness of the flora and fauna of the Neretva Valley by using info pan- els, stuffed animals set in glass showcases, multimedia audio-visual displays as well as a 3D view of their habitats. One event that touches your senses and especially for those who love culture, arts, history and archaeology all in one!QUlica Kralja Zvonimira, tel. (+385-20) 69 06 73, www.pmm.hr/. Open 09:00 - 16.00; Sat 09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. Admission 40/15kn.

MILLS ON THE RIVER LJUTA The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik. The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.QKonavle.

44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik Surroundings

MLJET NATIONAL PARK & ODYSSEU’S CAVE THE RAČIĆ MAUSOLEUM (MAUZOLEJ OBITELJI Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The RAČIĆ) park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović, end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coast- a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order line beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and to house their remains. Located in the middle of the cem- Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pome- etery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mau- na, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. soleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised It took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic. and he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our Lady Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that of the Angels.QCavtat Cemetery, Cavtat, www.migk.hr. would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on Open 10:00 - 17:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/15kn. his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pin- THE WALLS OF STON ing for his wife and his home. After walking along a path In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few man- made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled four- lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you teenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was acces- may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can sible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a pick your way down into the cave; come back another significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Lo- public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around cal fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.QPristanište 2, the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, www. www.np-mljet. enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside. hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00. From June Open 07:00 - 21:00. The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Du- Admission 70/50 kn. From June 125/70kn. brovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac penin- sula, and immediately set about securing it against poten- NARONA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM tial Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ NARONA) the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a This archaeological museum is located at the former site of key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva republic’s fleet on the seas. Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibi- Ston Wall Marathon, Ston Tourist Board Archives tion. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+385- 20) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn.

SOKOL TOWER (SOKOL GRAD) Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, Spanning the isthmus that connects the Pelješac peninsu- www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 12:00 - 15:00. From la to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 for- June Open 09:00 - 19:00. Tickets 70/30 kn. tresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sourc- STON SALTWORKS (SOLANA STON) es reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world Did you know that Croatia has one of the oldest salt mines after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping in Europe? Located in Ston, this salt mine is one of three claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing in Croatia and dates back to the 14th century. It was cre- ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel ated in 1333 after the Dubrovnik Republic bought Ston. obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing Annually, they produce up to 2000 tons of organic salt in revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of sur- salt pans!QPelješki put 1, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 40 27, viving wall – although we didn’t bother investigating any www.solanaston.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From June further.QSton, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 63 88 00/(+385- Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 15kn. Guided tours 22.5 20) 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00- kn per person. 18:30. From June Open 08:00 - 19:30. Tickets 70/30 kn.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 45 Dubrovnik Surroundings chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another ISLANDS vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the tradi- tional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger KORČULA takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to ​Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers explod- is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by ing at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with em- towns which hits the news from time to time with reports broidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers. of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here. rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wan- there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a der through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow pas- you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay at- sage of time here, this could well be the start of an endur- tention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief ing love affair. figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galler- QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr. ies within a casual morning stroll. Open 08:00 - 16:00; closed Sat;Sun. One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with MLJET swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drum- lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the beats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, through prior to the performance. reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet KORČULA TOURIST BOARD back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www. submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat, Sun. types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational From May 15 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National LASTOVO Park since 1960. Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours. MLJET TOURIST BOARD Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet. preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00; closed Sat;Sun., From June so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an un- THE ELAFITI ISLANDS - touched ecological paradise. KOLOČEP, LOPUD AND ŠIPAN Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of is- of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the land life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban times more refreshing! life. Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the archi-

46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik Surroundings tectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family- run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti is- lands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many church- es and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a na- turist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part.

Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, tak- ing a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

NORTH OF DUBROVNIK The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continen- tal areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498. The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those as- sociated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

NERETVA If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rush- Korčula Tourist Board Archives ing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 47 Dubrovnik Surroundings at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacu- open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Gen- lar conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Pla- erations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is vac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California. the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spir- geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, its. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recom- of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for trans- mend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often porting pretty much everything around here.The region called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a affordable and very quaffable. trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these tra- ditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, un- race (Maraton lađa, August 10 ) which attracts compet- touched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed ing teams from around the world looks set to revive the by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is picturesque tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern construction which is very attractive but definitely renders side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for wind- their navigation a challenge! surfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Du- More curious still is the water life of the valley. The tradi- brovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east tional dishes of the area are often centered around two of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping. into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, time to slowly discover and drink in its delights – a week where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris will hardly be long enough. are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game. OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 13:00; the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnect- closed Sat;Sun., May Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - ing freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beau- 14:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00. tifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in STON TOURIST BOARD the near future. QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www. ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00; closed Sat;Sun., From June METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SLANO Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the PELJEŠAC PENINSULA Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the beaches are ideal for landlubbers. mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which prehistoric times. Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built picturesque bay. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state. industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr. architecture in Dalmatia.

48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik Surroundings

Ston Tourist Board Archives

If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descend- called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not ant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is texts here. also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the by local sea captains who came home from their travels vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many Slano is a must-see. people have invested their energy and soul into these gar- dens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates DUBROVAČKO PRIMORJE TOURIST BOARD – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 aqueduct. 36, www.visit-slano.com. Open 07:00 - 15:00; closed East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by Sat;Sun., From May Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part TRSTENO of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arbo- If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Du- retum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably brovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, healthy. get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gar- paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also deners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Ma- modern sections, with features typical of the southern rinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 49 Dubrovnik Surroundings taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the dence of the culture of the Celts and Illyrians who inhab- beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the ited the region before them is still visible. In the village of chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature. Mikulići you can see Illyrian cairns (burial mounds made of The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a stones), while at Močići there is an underground temple to fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic the pagan god Mithras. plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a In Konavle you can also see stećci, decorative mediaeval stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical. tombstones unique to this part of southeast Europe, nota- bly at Brotnice and the Church of St Barbara in Dubravka. ARBORETUM TRSTENO Also dating back to the Middle Ages is the imposing for- QPotok 20, Trsteno, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 75 10 tress Sokol Grad, built on the foundations of Illyrian and 19, www.info.hazu.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00; , From May Roman fortifications. Open 07:00 - 19:00. 50/30kn. Moving forward in time, in Konavle you can also see the traces of the wealth of the days when Dubrovnik was a city SOUTH OF DUBROVNIK state. On the torrents of the River Ljuta you can see the mills which supplied the growing city with wheat and olive oil. You can get a sense of the genteel days of the 19th and CAVTAT 20th century when fine stone villas were built and culture The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is flourished in Cavtat, for example at the mausoleum of the one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the cam- Račić family designed by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović, paniles of its churches poke their way into view above a or at the family home and gallery of artist Vlaho Bukovac. canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all – this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Cavtat, with its picturesque setting on a peninsula, is also Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old a popular tourist resort in its own right, with excellent ho- streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a tels and pleasant beaches, galleries and lovely architecture. selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small Interestingly there are no other coastal settlements in the hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, Konavle region except for the fishing village of Molunat a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by right down in the south which is perfect for a tranquil stay sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out away from the crowds. of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all- Today a happy circumstance is the growth of agricultural inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend tourism in Konavle, meaning the region offers an alterna- imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when tive to the busy coastal resorts where you can enjoy food you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional just as people have made at home for generations, plucked konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous fresh from the kitchen garden that morning. And of course, for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your to accompany your meal there is no shortage of wines doorstep. including local varieties such as malvasija dubrovačka, plavac mali, kadarun and dalmatinka which are enjoying KONAVLE something of a revival. Konavle occupies the extreme southern tip of Croatia, ly- With such a diverse terrain there is no shortage of recrea- ing between Cavtat and the border with Montenegro at tional activities on offer, including walking and cycle routes, the Gulf of Kotor. Just 30 km from Dubrovnik, it’s a place hiking to the highest peak Snježnica (1234 m) and horse the city’s residents love to head for days out in the open riding. On the coast you can enjoy the beaches at Cavtat, air. Fringed by mountains and the shoreline, fertile fields lie Molunat and Prevlaka or scramble to find a hidden piece of in between speckled with delightful stone settlements. As your very own undisturbed paradise. There are organized well as great food, wine and wonderful natural surround- diving trips, and there are two adventure parks and off road ings, Konavle offers culture including art at the refined re- buggy driving. Rather more gentle is a ride on the tourist sort of Cavtat, folk culture at Čilipi mixed in with a healthy train through the Konavle vineyards. dose of ancient history. Konavle is particularly rich in folk- lore, with the folk dress you see in Dubrovnik often deriving At Čilipi, the village just by Dubrovnik airport, don’t miss from Konavle. the Sunday folklore performances running from just before Easter til the end of October. Turn up at St Nicholas Church The name Konavle derives from the word from the Latin just after mass (i.e. at 11:15) and you’ll be treated to a spec- “canale”, referring to the aqueduct you can still see which tacle of song, dance and vibrant folk costume. Be sure also carried water from Vodovađe in the mountains to Cavtat, to call into the Ethnographic Museum at Čilipi where the known during Roman times as Epidaurum. The region was ethnic heritage of Konavle is preserved and beautifully dis- settled far before the Greeks and Romans arrived, and evi- played, and where you can buy an authentic souvenir.

50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik Surroundings To sum up, Konavle offers it all. Dubrovnik is at your finger- tips, but you have the great food, wine, relaxation and won- derful villages of the Croatian countryside to enjoy, along with a super-sized portion of culture, all at a pebble’s throw from the shoreline.

TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From May Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aqua- marine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the moun- tainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freez- ing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in ques- tion. These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons be- ing that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situa- tion for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is pres- ently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Du- brovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environ- ment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket.

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel com- plex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385- 20) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00; closed Sat;Sun., From May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

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DAY 10-18 1/2 DAY 10-14 / 14-18 SUNSET 18.30-20-30

Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle Diving center, diving school, water sports (jet ski, waterski, of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ide- wakeboard, stand up paddle, snorkeling, parasailing).QG‑2, ally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. generally pottering around. (+385-) 099 256 12 56, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:30 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mis- sion to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit Dubrovnik Half Marathon runners on their way, that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch DuMotion Run Archives a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beauti- fully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office pub- lishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.

52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Leisure ADVENTURE DALMATIA Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, biking and hiking in Ko- navle. More information on contact below.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42, www.adventuredalmatia.com. Open by prior arrangement.

BLUE PLANET Different levels for scuba diving courses, daily trips and diving adventures.QF‑3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, www. blueplanet-diving.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

BUNGEE JUMPING Heart pumping, thrill seeking jumps that make for life- long memories. The lads on 53m high Franjo Tuđman Bridge are waiting for you; it’s like Point Break on altitude. QG‑1, Franjo Tuđman Bridge, tel. +385 91 111 55 44, www.bungee-jumping-dubrovnik.com/. By prior ar- rangement. From June Open 11:00 - 20:00. 600kn.

DIVING CLUB DUBROVNIK Scuba diving, start on Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour. QG/H‑1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrange- ment.

DUBROVNIK SAILING Make the most of your stay by going sailing from leisure to recreational all down to professional sports sailing. Choose between half and full day sailing, sunset sailing or week sailing. Stop off at amazing islands, sandy beaches, caves, historical monuments, gardens. Your camera will be working overtime and all you need to do is let the skip- per know. Ahoy matey!Qtel. (+385-) 098 42 84 52, www. dubrovnik-sailing.com.

GREEN SEA SAFARI Doing good has its rewards, and this non-profit associa- tion has one key mission and that is to clean the beaches, islands and bays of the Adriatic Sea and its underwater world from plastic, bottles and similar waste. Starting with Dubrovnik, the project depends solely on the help of its members and donations. So be active, tours involve clean- ing a specific bay for an hour and then the rest of the day is action packed with snorkelling in caves, exploring the is- lands and beach bars. One boat can carry up to 12 persons per day!Qwww.greenseasafari.com.

KOJAN KORAL Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They offer ATV Quad Safaris across four different off-road terrains of the Konavle main- land, for the price of 600-700kn for ATV-quad safari and 800kn horseback riding (including the transport from/to Kojan Koral).QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 099 300 50 01, www.kojankoral.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

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Shopping ANTIQUES 98/ (+385-) 091 501 33 18, www.romana-milutin.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. A ANTIQUES TEZORO Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik - TALIR jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croa- Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. tian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. 32 32 93. Open 10:00 - 20:00. From May Open 10:00 - Closed Sun. A 24:00. A ART GALLERIES WORKSHOP BE CRAFT This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, AR BASTION stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed. Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00. A

ARTUR CHIC & CHEERFUL A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian BREAK TIME - NAUTICAL BRACELETS art. Look for the book “Dubrovnik” featuring 37 drawings For an exceptional souvenir from Dubrovnik you have to by Osvaldo Cavandolia, the father of “La Linea”, inspired visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and by episodes and stories from the history of the republic. Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, C 28 53 98, www.arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 -20:00. key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical From May Open 10:00 - 22:00. A icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which M are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great HOMA GALLERY accessories!QC‑2, Antuninska 5, tel. (+385-20) 71 65 53, Y A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter www.nautical-bracelets.com. Open 09:30 - 21:30. Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress CM your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings CVIJET BY KIKE MY is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspi- For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from ration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 399 16 85, weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will CY www.jadranka-munitic.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. N help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets CMY KLARISA GALLERY and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, K located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, 14:00. Closed Sun. A and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croa- LIFE ACCORDING TO KAWA tian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) Set in a rather fabulously renovated garage directly above 099 243 59 44. Open 12:00 - 22:00. From May Open the Ploče Gate, Life According to Kawa is the one-stop sou- 12:00 - 24:00. A venir shop and design store that everyone in Dubrovnik has LUNA+SOL ART GALLERY been waiting for. Almost all of its stock comes from inde- Prepare to enter a new world where the spirit of ancient pendent Croatian producers (except for the drinking horns Dubrovnik is revived through a rich collection of contem- made by Slovenia’s ingeniously odd Goat Story), and covers porary art, paintings, sculptures, unique ceramics, jewel- pretty much everything you might want to buy in order to lery and antiques. See the gallery’s 2016 artist of the year round off your stay – ceramics, jewelry, unique designer JožeCiuha’s artworks on display and exclusively for sale. clothes, toys, toiletries, olive oils, and speciality condiments In addition to visiting and buying in privacy, guests can from the salt pans of Nin. Even the mugs, fridge magnets receive expert advice prior to purchase. Find the perfect and postcards are totally different from anything you will authentic souvenir or home gift and don’t forget that find elsewhere. The T-shirts made by the Kawa team or they also organise transport and delivery worldwide. commissioned from local artists are totally unique, and QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385) 98 209150, www. will be treasured as highly wearable artefacts rather than lunasolgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, dutifully-purchased souvenirs. The emphasis on artisanship Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A and individuality extends to the small but important range of drinks on offer – coffee from independent Zagreb roast- ROMANA ATELIER ers Cogito, and craft beers from Croatia’s best small brewer- Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. ies. QK‑3, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 - ) 099 668 01 45. Open QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00. 54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com BUTCH print FINAL 28-3-19.pdf 1 28/03/2019 15:46

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K Shopping DELICATESSEN DUBROVAČKA KUĆA A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spir- its, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385- 20) 32 20 92. Open 09:00 - 22:00. From June Open 09:00 - 23:00. A

GLIGORA WINE & CHEESE SHOP Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The vari- ous delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, includ- ing the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski sir, mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other well- known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški sir, cheese from sheep’s milk.QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, www. gligora.com/gdje-kupiti-sireve/trgovine/gligora- trgovina-dubrovnik. Open 07:00 -14:00; closed Sun., From April 15 Open 07:00 - 24:00. A ­G ­B

KRAŠ The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A

ŠKAR WINERY This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour. The small family- run business started selling it’s homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Du- brovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assort- ment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik art- ists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed!QH‑2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, www.lekri.eu. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 23:00.

TAJ BUTCHERAJ MEAT BOUTIQUE Dubrovnik’s highly-regarded Bosnian restaurant Taj Mahal has branched out into the butchery business with this boutique food store located a few steps away from La- pad’s main road junction. The accent is on fresh meat (and if you’re planning a cook up a barbecue this is the place to come), although they also sell salami-style sausage for those who want something for picnics or on-the-move snacks. They stock the kind of locally-produced relishes and chill sauces that make ideal souvenirs.QH‑2, Dalma- tinska 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 61 51. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

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56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Shopping JEWELLERY MEDUSA Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just CLARA STONES the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actu- Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and pre- ally wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts cious stones, which may leave some women breathless. including sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Kra- The uniqueness of this store is its presentation depart- panj, handmade lace from Lepoglava, ceramics and vases, ment which shows how a coral branch is worked on and silk scarfs, natural cosmetics and all sorts of delicatessens the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva like truffles, olive oil or local honey.QB/C‑2, Prijeko 18, 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, www.clarastones.com. Open tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, www. 09:30 - 19:00. A ­J medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00. From April Open 09:00 - 22:00. A DUBROVNIK TREASURES Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high- MUSEUM SHOP quality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic One of the better examples of a museum gift shop in and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many Croatia, this small but well-stocked room at the back of pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece the Rector’s Palace carries a tasteful range of mugs, bags, of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, scarves and jewelry inspired by pictures and objects in using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as the museum’s collection. The postcards have a bit more well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil. class than those on offer elsewhere.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom Also at Boškovićeva 2 (C-2).QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr/hr/sto-raditi/ tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com. muzejska-prodavaonica. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A ­W Open 10:00 - 17:00, From April Open 09:00 - 20:00. A PALMA KRIŽEK Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 100kn.QC‑3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewel- (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open lery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide 09:00 - 15:00. selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.krizek.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00; Sat 09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. A instagram.com/inyourpocket

SOUVENIRS Cvijet by Kike Flower Shop Archives, www.cvijetbykike.com BABOON A traditional craft store in Dubrovnik where you can find handmade jewellery, paper flowers and various original gifts.QI‑2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/ (+385-) 098 85 72 79. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00; Sat 09:00 - 12:00. W

DEŠA PRO Founded in 2012 by the ‘DEŠA Association’, this is about a noble cause aimed at employing women 40 or over, wom- en with disabilities and other socially excluded people through the production and sale of quality and innovative textiles and gastro products inspired by Croatian heritage. See their products which are hand-made, unique, wheth- er woven, embroidered, painted or knitted and bear the identity of the Dubrovnik City, and our Mediterranean cli- mate.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 42 01 45. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

DUTY FREE SHOP One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 57 Dubrovnik Basics

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS 2019 January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 21 Easter April 22 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day June 20 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- cal appliances.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Igor Brautović you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that TOILETS let you put it on plastic could be a problem. There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 08:00 ROADS - 22:00. When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt WATER and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they WHEN THINGS GO WRONG say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik signifi- cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an SMOKING emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer- Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café gency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish- district, in case you were involved in an accident or were ar- ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend- rested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb including restaurants where it has never been easy to find (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re pre- an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, pared to move inside. and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195. 58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Around

ARRIVING BY BOAT tia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices. quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a sin- the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right gle trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding. ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.

G&V LINE Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Igor Brautović Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via Šipan, sails to Korčula and Lastovo in July and August. Tick- ets can be bought in Gruž Harbour in front of the boat at least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00. Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG‑1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www.gv-line.hr. 35 - 95kn one way per person depending on time of the year and your final destination.

JADROLINIJA Jadrolinija ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, be- tween Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari. During summer, May 31 - September 30 there is also a daily catamaran line connecting Dubrovnik to Split via Korčula and Hvar islands. Tickets for local catamarans and interna- tional ferries can be purchased online. For local catama- rans it is possible to book one month in advance (maxi- mum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija.hr. Opening hours according to sailing schedule.

KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet May 27 - October 6. The other line runs June to October from Dubrovnik to Split via Sobra, Korčula, Makarska and Bol. Tickets can be bought at Corner Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 16:30.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž, www.krilo.hr. 90 - 210kn one way, depending on your final destination.

ARRIVING BY BUS The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croa-

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TOURIST INFORMATION ARRIVING BY CAR CENTRES For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzego- vina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics. Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška – Banja Luka – Jajce – Mostar is prob- The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the ably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the way system leads east and west of the Old Town – try to information and materials made available are free and have a map handy! you are more than welcome to visit them.

GRUŽ ARRIVING BY PLANE QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DU- 41 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, BROVNIK) Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. From May Open 08:00 - The airport is located 20 km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s 20:00. small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A car LAPAD hire facilities are to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20) to town: scheduled flights are met by an Platanus Travel 43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, Agency bus which trundles into town (45 kn one-way), 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) May 16 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. 17:00 - 20:00. Municipal buses no. 11, 27 and 38 also connect the air- port to the town centre (28 kn one way), but only run a LOPUD few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 – 250 QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22, kn.QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From May Open 09:00 - 16:00. 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. Closed Fri. CAR RENTAL PILE QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www. AVIS - BUDGET tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. A ŠIPAN DOLLAR&THRIFTY QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/ www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From May Open 09:00 - 13:00, (+385-) 098 42 49 03, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Open 07:00-21:00. A

ZATON HERTZ QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www. Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tzdubrovnik.hr. From May 16 Open 08:00 - 14:00, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, (+385-) 091 425 11 11.QL‑2, Frana Tue, Thu, Sat Open 14:00 - 20:00. Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. A

MACK Get the In Your Pocket Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi. Open 07:00 - 21:00.QL‑2, Frana Supila 3, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15/(+385-) 098 32 City Essentials app 09 15, www.rent-a-car.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. A

60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Around

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Spring 2019 61 Arrival & Getting Around TEXT MESSAGE PARKING Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registra- tion number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT LIBERTAS The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, free- dom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12 kn from news kiosks (15 kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25 kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver.QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+385-20) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

TOWED AWAY If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that Photo by Ivana Stanešić happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn UNI RENT for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80, face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/ G‑3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-) and accept payment by credit card. 099 219 55 15, www.uni-rent.com. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 08:00-12:00. A TRAVEL AGENCIES GULLIVER TRAVEL PARKING Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www. Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free closed Sun, Sat. A space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed KORKYRA for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles QE‑1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyra- passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00. A although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 – 75kn per hour VIVADO depending on which zone you’re in, and the season. Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, SANITAT DUBROVNIK tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www. 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. N sanitat.hr/en/.

62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Street register

A. Barca H-2/3 Gorica Sv. Vlaha H/I-3 A. Bošković J-2/3 Gornji kono I/J/K-2 A. Hallera I-2 Gradac J-3 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 Gradićeva D-4 A. Kazali H-2 Grbava C-4 A. Mihanovića J-2 Grebenska H-2 A. Šenoe H-2 Grudska K-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 Gruška obala H-1 A.T. Mimare K-2 Gundulićeva poljana C/D-3 Androvićeva C-4 Hanibala Lucića C-1 Ante Starčevića I-2 Hladnica H-3 Antuninska C-2 Hliđina B-3 Aquarium E-3 Hodiljska I-2 Arhiv D-2 Hvarska E-1 Asimon E-1 I. Matijaševića J-2 B. Bušića L-2 I. Račića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 I. Vojnovića H-2, I-3 Babin Kuk G-2 Ilije Sarake D-4 Bandureva D-4 Imotska I-1 Banjska I-3 Ispod Minčete B-1 Batahovina G-1 Ispod mira D-4 Batala H/I-2 Ispod Petke G-2 Biokovska G-2 Istarska J-3 Bokar A-3 Ive Dulčića G-2 Bokeljska G-1 Ivana Zajca G/H-1 Boninovo J-3 Ivanska G-3 Bosanka L-2 Iza Grada B-1, K-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Između ribnjaka H-2 Božatska I-2 Između tri crkve J-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Između vrta K-3 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Između polača C-2 Brdasta J-2 Izvijačica A-1 Brgatska L-2 J. Berse H-2 Brsalje A-2 J. Pupačića H-2 Brsečinska I-2 Jakljanska H-1 Bunićeva poljana C-3 Janjinska H-2 Buža D-1 Josipa Kosora I-3 Cavtatska K-2 Kantafig G-1 Celestina Medovića B-2 Kardinala Stepinca F-2 Crijevićeva C-4 Kaznačićeva C-3 Cvijete Zuzorić C-3 Kliševska G-2 Čubranovićeva B-2 Kneza Domagoja H-2 Ćilipska I-2 Kneza Branimira I-2 Ćira Carića G-2 Kneza Damjana Jude E-3 D. Pulića A-1 Kneza Hrvaša C-4 Dalmatinska H-2 Knežev dvor D-3 Dante Alighieria J-3 Koločepska L-2 Dinka Ranjine C-3 Komajska H-2 Dolska H-1 Komolačka G-1 Dr. A. Šercera H-2 Konavoska L-2 Dr. V. Mačeka I-2 Korčulanska I-3 Dračasta K-2 Koritska H-1 Dropčeva C-2 Kotorska I-3 Državna cesta D-8 Kovačka D-2 Dubravkina G-2 Kralja Tomislava H-2 Dunavska G-2/3 Kunićeva C-2 Džamija C-3 Kunska I-1 Đorđićeva B-2 L. Matačića H-1 Đura Baljevića D-4 L. Rogovskog G/H-2 Đura Basaričeka I-1 Lapad G-3 E. Kumičića H-2 Lapadska obala H-2 F. Kolumbića H-2 Lazareti L-2 F. Prešerna I-2 Lazarina L-2 F. Supila L-2 Ferićeva B-3 Flore Jakšić G-2 G. Rajčevića I-2/3 Garište B-2 Getaldićeva B-2

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Liechtensteinov put H/I-3 Metohijska I-1 Od Batale H-2 Od Tabakarije K-3 Lokrum L-3 Miha Pracata C-2 Od borova H-2 Oraška G-2 Lokrumska K-2 Minčeta B/C-1 Od čempresa J-2 P. Budmani K-2 Lopudska H-1 Mljetska H/I-1 Od Danača J-3 P. Čingrije I-3 Lovrijenac K-3 Mokoška I-1 Od Domina B-3 P. Krešimira IV L-2 Lovrina L-2 Moluntska G-1 Od gaja I-1/2, J-2 P. Preradovića H-2 Lučarica D-3 Montovjerna I-2 Od Gale I/J-2 Padre Perice I-1 Luka Dubrovnik H-1 Mosorska G-2 Od Greba Žudioskih K-2 Palmotićeva C-2 Luke Sorkočevića G-2 Most Dubrovnik G-1 Od Gradca J-3 Paska Baburice H-2 Ljubuška H-1 Mrtvo zvono B-4 Od Hladnice H-3 Pećarica C-3 M. Blažića K-3 N. Ljubičića I-2 Od Kaštela B-4 Peline C-1 M. Budaka K-2 N. Nodila J-2 Od Kolorine K-3 Pelješka K-2 M. Dizdara I-1 Na Andriji B-3 Od Margarite C-4 Pera Bakića J-2 M. Gjaje J-2 Na Mihajlu H-2 Od maslinate L-2 Petilovrijenci C-2 M. Gupca K-2 Na Ponti D-2 Od Montovjerne I-2 Petra Svačića G-2 M. Hamzića I-2 Nalješkovićeva C-2 Od Nuncijate H-1 Pile J/K-3 M. Jarnovića G-2 Napice L-2 Od polača C-2 Pionirska H-1 M. Mrnarevića I-2 Neumska H-1 Od puča C/B-3 Placa C/D-2 M. Vodopića G/H-2 Nikole Božidarevića B/C-3 Od pustijerne D-4 Placa – Stradun C-2 Mala Petka G-3 Nikole Gučetića C-3 Od Rupa B-3 Platska J-3 Mandaljenska G-3 Nikole Tesle H/I-2 Od Sigurate B-2 Ploče L-2 Marina Držića D-3 Nuncijata H-1 Od Srđa K-2 Plovani skalini C-1 Marka Marojice H-2 Obala S. Radića I-2 Od Sv. Mihajla H-2 Pobijana D-4 Marojice Kaboge C-3 Obodska K-2 Od škara I-1 Pobreška H-1 Masarykov put F/G-3 Obuljenska J-2 Od šorte B-3 Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique

Dubrovnik Sailing Restaurant Aquarius

Restaurant Levanat Banje Beach Restaurant

Merit Casino

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Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Solinska I-2 Sv.Dominika D-2 Vladimira Nazora J-2 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Solitudo G-1 Sv. Josipa B-3 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Sponza D-2 Sv.Nikole H-1 Velebitska G-2 Pomoraca H-1 Srebrenska J-2 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Velika Petka G-3 Pomorski muzej E-4 Srednji kono K-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Vetranićeva C-2 Porat E-3 Stayeva E-4 Šibenska G-2 Vicina K-2 Porporela E-3/4 Stonska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Viška I-2 Posat E-2 Strossmayerova C-3 Šipčine I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1 Postranjska I-2 Stulina D-4 Široka C-2 Vukovarska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Stradun B-2 Tivatska J-2 Za kapelicom K-2 Prelazna B-3 Sunčana L-2 Tmušasta C-3 Za Kamenom E-4 Pridvorska J-2 Sustjepanska I-2 Topolska I-2 Za Rokom B-3 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Sv. Barbara C-1 Trg oružja E-2 Za rupama B-3 Primorska G-2 Sv. Đurđa A-2, K-3 Trnovička I-2 Zadarska G-2 Privežna J-2 Sv. Ivan E-3 Trpanjska G-1 Zagrebačka J/K-2 Puljizeva B-3 Sv. Jakov D-1 Trstenska G-2 Zamanjina C-2 Put od Bosanke L-2 Sv. Križa H-1 U pilama K-3 Zatonska G-2 Restićeva D-4 Sv. Lucija C-1 Udarnička I-2 Zlatarićeva B-2 Revelin E-1 Sv. Luka E-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Zlatarska D-2 Riječka G-1 Sv. Petar B-4 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3 Ribarnica D-2 Sv. Spasitelj E-4 Uz Giman H-2 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4 Roka Mišetića H-3 Sv. Stjepan D-4 Uz Glavicu H-2 Željezničarska H-1 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Sv. Šimuna B-4 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Žudioska D-2 Savska G-3 Sv. Vid C-1 Uz mline K-2 Žuljanska I-2 Sinjska I-2 Sv. Vlaha D-3 Uz posat B-1 Župska L-2 Slanska G-2 Sv. Marije B-3 Uz tabor K-2

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique

Dubrovnik Sailing Restaurant Aquarius

Restaurant Levanat Banje Beach Restaurant

Merit Casino

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Gusta Me

Dubravka

Exit Rock Café

Gaffe Pub

Mea Culpa Taj Mahal dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Mirage

Salvatore Dubrovnik Special tourist discount card Available at all Tourist Information Offi ces, Card Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

Includes free entrance to cultural institutions and public transport rides Download the Dubrovnik Card brochure here No charge for children up to 7 y.o.

Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery... and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

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