LEATHER & LEATHER CARE SALES ASSOCIATE STUDY GUIDE

® LEATHER & LEATHER CARE

Preface How Leather Is Made The more you know about leather. The more leather The Tanning Process you will be able to sell. This guide takes you from the Leather tanning of the hide, through the benefits and features of owning leather to some pointers on how to sell leather. Leather is the hide/skin of an animal which has been put through a process called Tanning. The leather on most furniture comes Once you read and understand this material, you will from the hides of cattle. It takes five to seven hides to upholster have the product knowledge and the selling techniques a midsize sofa; however a cow or steer is not killed for the you need to be a leather furniture specialist. express purpose of using its hide. It is a by-product of the meat industry with the supply of hides and skins being dependent on the demand for meat and the availability of animals for slaughter. Because the demand is sometimes greater than the supply, the Some Important Things To Know... price of leather can fluctuate. Savvy buyers search out the best When your customer is considering purchasing a piece quality hides at the best prevailing prices in the world. of leather furniture, they are considering one of the Curing oldest, most durable materials known to man. There are so many benefits to buying leather, and it’s up to Once the hide has been removed from the steer, it is cured by you to help customers understand those benefits. In immersing it in a salt solution to protect it from deterioration and to preserve it while it is being transported to the tannery. At this order to prepare for the most positive and professional stage, the hide is from 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick. interaction you can have with customers shopping in your leather department, please read through the Soaking following pages. Once the hides reach the tannery they are soaked and tumbled with crystal clear water in an immense drum to remove the salt. Then a chemical solution is added which removes the hair but still leaves the surface of the hide in its natural state. Following the hair removal, the hides are inspected and graded.

Inspection and grading is very important because upholstery leather requires large pieces of relatively unblemished hide. Therefore, upholstery leather is generally the most expensive leather per square foot.

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Tanning The coloring process then begins. This is an extremely complex procedure, because the carefully blended dyes must permeate the Tanning is a process that converts a skin or hide into leather, hide without marking the surface features. a product which can be used for many different applications. Without tanning and preserving the skin, leather would simply Drying decompose having no value. There are a wide variety of tanning methods. The ultimate goal of each is to preserve the skin or hide The drying process is a critical phase of tanning which must be by cleaning it of all dirt and bacteria and then drying it. In order carefully monitored. The hides must dry slowly in controlled to make leather usable for different applications, the leather is humidity to insure that they remain soft and supple. During the then put through a series of specialized processes to insure the drying process, the hide is stretched to remove wrinkles and to desired end result. create an even surface. Proper stretching of the hide during the drying process assures that the leather will retain its original shape Tanning softens the hide and transforms it into leather. It takes during use. place in large drums, where hides are tumbled for up to half a day with carefully mixed tanning solutions. Utilizing the most Finishing advanced equipment available, after tumbling, the hide is Leather adapts to a wide variety of finishes. In quality leather, hydraulically wrung to reduce the moisture content. Then the hide extreme importance is placed on retaining the natural look and is shaved to a uniform thickness. Natural oils and lubricants are feel of the hide while ensuring precise color resolution. Grain used to condition the hide and replace the natural oils displaced variations may be emphasized or the leather may be treated to a during tanning. This process is called fat liquoring. These oils will uniform fine grain. Some leathers may be glazed or given a matte wear off and evaporate over time and should be replenished to finish for a distinctive look and increased durability. maintain the new feel of leather. Once the appearance has been determined, each hide is After they have passed inspection, the hides are then split. This massaged with a unique machine which renders the leather soft involves a process whereby the top layer which is the most durable and pliable. and beautiful, is separated from the rest of the hide. The top grain is only 3/64 inches thick - no thicker than the edge of a coin. Although leather has a greater “up-front” cost, it delivers superior value because of its many features. The top grain is considered the premium of leather grades. The layers of leather underneath the top grain are referred to as “split hides”. These are generally thicker and stiffer than the top grain and are often used as less expensive upholstery leathers.

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Comfort Tear Resistance Since it is a natural substance, leather breathes. It is warm in This is derived from the 3-dimensional fiber weave structure of winter and cool in summer. Good quality leather contains from leather. Leather is one of the strongest upholstery materials 10 to 15 percent of its weight in water. It absorbs and evacuates known to man. moisture that never stays on its surface. Flame Resistant Customers may ask about leather feeling cold or hot against Leather is naturally flame resistant; it will not readily burn or melt. their skin. Some people incorrectly think that leather sweats. Most leather even meets the high standards the FAA sets for Actually leather is a lot like our skin - it maintains the temperature airline seating. of the room and is porous. The scientific term is transpiration, and this is an attribute of leather’s 3-dimensional fiber structure. Conformability The countless fibers in each square inch of leather conduct and dissipate heat and moisture. Air moves through leather freely, Leather molds to a form, but will not stretch out of shape. Like a while vinyl and synthetic backed fabrics can trap air. Leather favorite pair of jeans, it conforms to the body shape and becomes adapts within several seconds to body temperature and therefore more comfortable with each use. Only leather ages so gracefully, becomes instantly comfortable. For that reason, leather is always becoming more supple and beautiful throughout its years of use. associated with comfort, whether in footwear, gloves, garments or upholstery.

Durability Leather is an enduring material. The customer can expect many years of enjoyment from their leather sofa. Properly prepared, leather resists the typical causes of decay and deterioration - bacteria, temperature change and humidity. Drying and sunrot are the two big enemies of leather. These are easily controlled, and by adding proper protection, leather should last forever.

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Leather Types Characteristics

Pigmented Natural Variation & Shading • least likely to fade or stain Premium aniline-dyed leather displays subtle variations of color • sanded surface and a faux embossed pattern create a highly across the surface of the hide. When the hide is cut and sewn uniform and consistent texture together, care is taken to attempt to match adjacent pieces, but • coated with a clear sealant to enhance stain resistance subtle color differences may occur. These are not signs of poor • opaque dyes create rich and uniform coloration that minimize quality; in fact, they highlight the unique and natural quality of natural marks and scars premium leather, left unmasked by opaque dyes and varnishes. • excellent durability with minimal maintenance Natural Texture Aniline Premium leather hides used for upholstering furniture exhibit • the finest leather available, always made from premium-quality, slightly non-uniform surface qualities, depending on the area of full-top grain hides (the surface of a full-grain hide has not been the hide from which they were cut. Pigmented-dyed leathers mechanically altered) are buffed and embossed to obscure these natural texture • the softest, most luxurious and natural looking leather characteristics. Variations in texture are not flaws and will not • more likely to fade and stain; will feature noticeable range marks, effect leather durability. barbed wire scars, wrinkles, scratches, and brands • unretouched, resulting in subtle color and shading differences Common Surface Variations from hide to hide - and even within a hide Scratches - Smooth to the touch, these rub marks may accept dye • generally more expensive than other types of leather with slight variation to the surrounding area. Nubuck Wrinkles - Natural folds highlight unique grain patterns. • high quality, full top-grain leather buffed or sanded to a velvety, Healed Scars - Barbed-wire scratches and deeper rubs create suede-like nap organic surface texture and one-of-a-kind authentic leather • more likely to fade and stain; will feature noticeable range marks, character. These marks do not affect the durability of the hide. barbed wire scars, wrinkles, scratches, and brands • soft and beautiful; more durable than a true suede that is produced from lower quality split-grain leather • unretouched, resulting in subtle color and shading differences from hide to hide - and even within a hide • generally more expensive than other types of leather

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Characteristics (Continued) Proper Care

Proper care and preventative maintenance with Leather Master® COMFORT products are vital to the life of your leather furniture.

General Care Aniline Unprotected Aniline • Position all leather seating at least two feet from heating

Semi-Aniline sources. Prolonged exposure to heat dries out leather. • Leather fades when exposed to sunlight, so keep leather seating away from direct light sources such as windows, skylights, and Pigmented open doors. • Practice preventative maintenance. Treat surfaces with the Pigmented & recommended Leather Master Cleaner or Leather Master Embossed Protector to improve the leather’s resistance to soiling. Give

Corrected special attention to high-use areas such as seats, arms, and backs. Pigmented Embossed Fully clean and re-protect your leather furniture every six months. Always pre-test in a hidden area first to test the results. Buffed Pigmented • Use a hair dryer to speed drying only when recommended. Let Embossed leather air dry aftercleaning whenever possible.

Max • Vacuum or dust weekly.

Spots and Spills While leather initially repels most spills, they will be naturally absorbed if not treated properly. Blot any liquids immediately RESISTANCE AGAINST STAINS with a clean, white absorbent cloth or sponge, then let air dry. If a spill is absorbed, it will dissipate over time as the leather naturally diffuses the stain.

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Proper Care (Continued) Care Products

Care Tips for Aniline and Pigmented Leathers Leather Master® Protection Cream for Aniline and Pigmented • Take extra precautions to keep Aniline Leathers away from direct Leathers sunlight as they are particularly sensitive to fading. Leather Master Protection Cream is a water-based protector for • To dust, lightly dampen a soft cloth with Leather Master® Soft all leather types except Nubuck. It provides excellent protection Cleaner and dust weekly. You will be able to fully remove dust against oil, water, and alcohol-based stains and also helps to resist particles from Aniline and Pigmented Leathers, making them the effects of everyday soiling. Leather Master Protection Cream easier to live with for dust-sensitive people. creates an invisible, breathable barrier between you and your • Preventative Care: Apply Leather Master Protection Cream to leather and prevents stains from absorbing deep into the leather. the surface to help resist staining and soiling. Regular use of this It can also be used to remove small surface scratches. cream will significantly improve the cleanability of Aniline Leather and help prevent possible cracking of Pigmented Leather. Leather Master Soft Cleaner for Aniline, Pigmented, and • Clean with Leather Master Soft Cleaner every six months to Nubuck Leathers remove dirt and body oils. After cleaning, apply the Leather Leather Master Soft Cleaner is a water-based cleaner that can be Master Protection Cream to restore the protection level. used on all leather types. This mild, solvent-free cleaner will not harm the leather and will not affect the leather’s original properties Care Tips for Nubuck Leathers or finish. It will clean most soiling as well as water-based stains. • All Nubuck Leathers will fade from exposure to direct sunlight. For heavy soiling or dye transfer like denim from jeans, you will • Treat the surface with the Leather Master Nubuck Eco-Protector need to use a stronger product. Leather Master Soft Cleaner is to significantly improve its resistance to staining and soiling. Be great to use in combination with weekly dusting. sure to treat high-use areas like seats, arms, and backs. • Use the Leather Master Nubuck Cleaning Cloth to pick up Leather Master Eco-Protector for Nubuck Leathers surface soils and restore the leather to its original look and feel. Leather Master Nubuck Eco-Protector is a water-based product Wrap the cloth around a soft dry sponge and rub in several for Nubuck or highly sensitive Leathers. This product will provide directions. oil-water-alcohol protection on Nubuck Leathers. Leather Master • Use the Leather Master Nubuck Cleaner on water-based stains. Eco-Protector creates an invisible, breathable barrier between you Apply the cleaner to a soft sponge and squeeze until you see a and your leather and prevents stains from absorbing deep into the white foam. Using the sponge, work the foam gently into the leather. area. Allow to dry, then use the Leather Master Nubuck Cloth as the final step. For oil-based stains, use the Leather Master Degreaser.

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Glossary of Terms Glossary of Terms (Continued)

Aniline Finish - Refers to the coloring of the leather through aniline dyes, a natural Grain - The pattern characterized by the pores and peculiar to the animal concerned, derivative. This form of dye completely penetrates the hide with color. It is a process visible on the outer surface of a hide or skin after the hair and epidermal tissue has been that uses transparent nontoxic dyes to color leather throughout. removed. Buffed - Leather may be buffed with an abrasive wheel to minimize surface blemishes, Hand - A term that describes leather’s softness and feel, the reaction of the sense of such as healed scratches. This technique obliterates much of the natural grain. The touch when leather is held in the hand. For example, “This sofa has a very soft, luxurious “Better” and “Best” hides are premium grade with a minimum of such marks, so the hand.” leather is not buffed. Rather, the genuine surface features are emphasized. The “Good” Hide - Skins of large animals, almost always from cattle. A hide used for upholstery leather is buffed and embossed to lay out the grain as smoothly as possible. purposes is the whole skin coverings of large animals, usually cattle. Whole steer hides Chromium - Most upholstered leather today is tanned with chromium salts because this average 45-55 square feet. method is fast, less expensive than other methods, makes the hide more flexible and Leather - A hide or skin that has been tanned into a non-perishable material or solutions. supple, and produces a lighter color than vegetable tanning. Low Gloss - Lower pigmented finish. This is the primary finish in the upholstery industry. Coloring Aniline Dyed - Process that uses transparent nontoxic dyes to color leather throughout. Matte - Low gloss finish with enhanced texture added. Coloring of the leather through use of aniline dyes. In a full aniline dye, the dye Naked Leather - Leather that has been tanned and dyed but has no protective top coat. completely penetrates the leather. Neck Wrinkles - The natural creases that exist in the neck and shoulder areas of the Semi-Aniline Dyed - Leather that has been aniline dyed and slightly pigmented with a hide. This feature is an unmistakable hallmark of genuine leather. clear top coat to ensure more even color consistency and protection against spills and stains. Nubuck Aniline - A top grain aniline dyed leather from which the top hair layer has been Pigmented Coated - An opaque pigment is used to coat the hide, as opposed to removed through buffing to create a “suede like” nap effect. penetrating it. Although it leads to a uniformity of shading, when an inexpensive Oil Pulled - Leather impregnated with oil for a more pliant feel. process is used, the color can come off. Acid Dying and Stonewashing - are used to give the leather variations in appearance. Patina - A surface luster that develops on Pure Anilines and Nubuck which grows more beautiful with the passing of time. Corrected Gain Leather - Leather from which the grain layer has been partially removed by buffing and upon which a new surface has been built by various finishes. The Pigment Finish - Coloring of the hide by using a coating which contains opaque “Good” leather is a corrected grain leather. pigments. This insures a uniformity of shade and resistance to fading. Drum Dyed - Leather is immersed in a drum with dyes and tumbled to ensure complete Split - The underneath layer of the hide which has been “split” off when the top grain color absorption. is separated. Devoid of natural gain, it is best given a suede finish and used for shoes and garments. Some lower quality sofa leather is a split which is heavily embossed and Emboss - During finishing operations, leathers are pressed with an embossing plate surface treated. under heat and high pressure to either lay out the grain as smoothly as possible or to impart a textured effect. The “Good” leather is embossed. Suede - Leathers that are finished by buffing to produce a nap. Suede does not have the same durable characteristics as top grain leather. Fat Wrinkle - Natural wrinkles in the leather grain that are part of the unique beauty. These are only visible in grain leathers. Tanning - A chemical process converting the raw hide into a stable nonperishable state. Tanning strips the hide of indigenous color and makes it receptive to color dyes. Finishing - Any process performed after the initial dyeing stage such as buffing, embossing, flame-proofing, milling, spraying, waterproofing, waxing, etc. These leathers Vegetable Tanning - Adds to the toughness of the leather, limits the stretching of the are treated with a topcoat substance to help provide abrasion and stain resistance. leather and makes the leather more breathable. The substance can be lacquers, varnishes, polymers or in the case of patent leather – Waxed Leather - Generally a beeswax is added to improve shine. enamels. The finishing substance may include pigments and/or dyes. Waxed Pull-Up - Enables finishers to rub out distresses, giving an even, more polished Full Top Grain - Leathers which are not buffed or sanded, a term applied only to look. premium leathers “Better” and “Best” are both full top grain leathers. Glazed/High Gloss - Treated with a substance with a lot of pigment not only provides gloss, but protection. The pigment can also carry color. 14 15 24 hours a day, 7 days a week stevesilver.com

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