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and the way he handled the shotgun was le- The entrepreneur orIginS gendary, especially when hunting quail; he even declared himself as a world champion Mark Cho, The origin of the Teba is surrounded in pigeon shooting. Elegant and educated, he founder of “The by mists of anecdotes, faded memories and was chosen to host Jacqueline Kennedy du- Armory”, has by stories spread by word of mouth always ring her visit in Seville in 1966. His life was chosen the having that blurred point inevitably accom- linked to the countryside and nature, whi- century-old, 100% panying the emergence of iconic ch he was an expert about. There are many Spanish company pieces such as the gabardine, duffel or theories about the origin of the jacket that tie. There will always be many explanations bears his name: Some say it was a gift from Justo Gimeno as and theories adding a charming and perso- the King Alfonso XIII, others that it was the the best of all the nal touch to its history. A general consensus other way around, there are even those who craftsmen who among fashion historians, manufacturers think it is a jacket that was manufactured in still manufacture and fans seems to be based on the fact that London Savile Row and was adapted by a the Teba jacket. the garment was born in the world of hun- Spanish tailor to the needs of the Count... In ting, intimately related to the traditional recent times the theory supporting the idea leisure activity of the Spanish nobility. The that the jacket was a gift of the monarch is available information indicate that it was gaining strength, consequently it is thought the Count of Teba, Carlos Mitjans Fitz-Ja- that the Earl commissioned then a Zarautz time. The rest of its history remains an at- mes Stuart (the cousin of the recently de- dressmaker Mary Sorreluz Múgica to adjust tractive secret that gives to this garment an ceased Duchess of Alba), who is responsible it to his requirements... Unfortunately, no aura of romanticism that has survived over for this garment becoming Spanish classic one can certify the accuracy of this infor- time. Its success, in addition to its elegant menswear. The title of Count of Teba was mation and data. In any case, what seems Neapolitan form and a British–like-style, is famous due to its use by the Empress Euge- certain is that it was the Count of Teba who due to its comfort; both its elastic fabric and nia whilst single. The closest friends called spread its use among the Spanish upper class varied design are adjusted to what would be the Count of Teba affectionately “Bunting”, taking part in the hunting events at that a formal but comfortable hunting garment.

Teba JACKET: An Icon of style By ANDRÉS PUCH • Photo by david gaya

The Teba jacket, like the Spanish coat or the Manila , is one of those garments that are considered typical Spanish icons. The story of the Teba jacket is certainly a uni- que one as not only it is worn in a daily life, but also it enjoys an increasing widespread acceptance, especially since Mark Cho, the famous founder of the new concept “artisanal clothiers” characteristic for “The Armoury” shops in Hong Kong and New York City, has promoted it outside Euro- pe. The Teba Jacket is a fashion trend that extends from the London Saville Row to the best tailor’s in Naples and Paris.

Mark Cho, owner of The Armoury. Justo Gimeno and his son Gabriel.

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king and emphasizing the best handicrafts in the world of classic male fashion. His proposal is causing havoc in Hong Kong and New York. In this sense, the Teba jac- ket has been one of his latest discoveries for its casual, relaxed and sporty style. The commitment to this Spanish garment has generated growing interest both among professionals and clients from different countries, as Cho’s stores are visited by customers from all over the world. The Armoury has selected Justo Gimeno, a century-old company, 100% Spanish, as the best among all manufacturers who are still producing this garment, especially for the high quality of the fabrics used and for the craftsmanship dedicated to all its creations.

The Teba jacket is reliving its youth and it has been included by the tailors of Saville Row, London, in their collections for a few years.

JUSTO GIMENO 1907

This company founded in 1907 in Za- ragoza, now run by the third generation of the family, continues to manufacture REDISCOVERING tailoring defines it as “a jacket that is like handcrafted , trench , coats, a second skin”. Moreover, many bloggers pyjamas and . The company curren- and forums oriented on menswear in nu- tly combines its national distribution with The Teba jacket is reliving its youth, not merous countries around the world include manufacturing for various French, Aus- only because a new generation of Spaniards this garment in their “looks” and recom- trian and London firms of international who wear it in everyday life (both profes- mendations. Today, social networks do prestige. Along with the classical models of sionally and in their spare time), but also not cease to praise the Teba jacket as the Teba jacket in green and blue, the com- because tailors of London Savile Row have “Spanish Jacket”. pany offers a wide range of colours and included the Teba Jacket in their collectio- materials (cashmere, wool, Harris Tweed, ns since a few years ago. Recently, several cotton, linen, etc.) as well as the possibi- craftsmen, the most prominent Neapolitan lity to customize each jacket to the tiniest tailors, have discovered that the Teba jacket The Armoury detail, as says Timothy Everest, member of (which they define as “lively and relaxed”) the The Woolmark Company: “To and they follow its long tradition keeping like a true gentleman means to express its wide sleeves, its unmistakable Neapo- The well- known businessman and collec- the own individuality and reveal the way a litan shoulder “spalla camicia”, its breast tor of handicrafts (“artisanal clothiers”) gentleman presents himself in public”. The pockets and light structure without liner Mark Cho, founder of “The Armoury”, Teba jacket is a garment that is even in the using light fabrics. Luca Rubinacci, an im- has launched a new successful concept of XXI century creating history: It is simply portant figure in the field of the Neapolitan multi - brand business that is based on see- a”Timeless Icon”.

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