©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
South America
Guyana Suriname Venezuela p793 p964 p1015 French Guiana Colombia p775 p570 Ecuador p672
Brazil Peru p300 p848 Bolivia p199
Paraguay p813
Uruguay Chile Argentina p981 p60 p444
Regis St Louis, Isabel Albiston, Celeste Brash, Brendan Sainsbury, Robert Balkovich, Jade Bremner, Cathy Brown, Gregor Clark, Alex Egerton, Michael Grosberg, Anthony Ham, Mark Johanson, Anna Kaminski, Brian Kluepfel, Tom Masters, Carolyn McCarthy, MaSovaida Morgan, Anja Mutić, Kevin Raub, Adam Skolnick, Paul Smith, Andy Symington, Phillip Tang, Luke Waterson, Wendy Yanagihara PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
Welcome to ARGENTINA. . . . . 60 San Martín de South America ...... 6 los Andes...... 154 Buenos Aires...... 63 Villa la Angostura. . . . . 156 South America Map. . . . . 8 Northeast Argentina . . . 87 Bariloche...... 157 South America’s Top 15. . . 10 Rosario...... 87 Parque Nacional Need to Know...... 20 Santa Fe...... 94 Nahuel Huapi ...... 162 Paraná...... 97 First Time El Bolsón...... 162 South America ...... 22 Parque Esteros del Iberá. . . . 99 Esquel...... 164 Corrientes...... 100 If You Like ...... 24 Parque Nacional Resistencia...... 102 Los Alerces...... 165 Month by Month...... 27 Posadas...... 105 Patagonia...... 166 Itineraries ...... 31 San Ignacio...... 106 Puerto Madryn...... 166 Big Adventures, Puerto Iguazú...... 107 Reserva Faunística Small Budgets ...... 40 Parque Nacional Iguazú . . . 110 Península Valdés . . . . . 170 Northwest Argentina. . . . 111 Trelew...... 171 Activities...... 47 Córdoba...... 111 Comodoro Rivadavia. . . . 172 Countries at a Glance. . . . 55 La Rioja ...... 117 Los Antiguos...... 173 Santiago del Estero. . . . 119 El Chaltén ...... 173
ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK © Tucumán ...... 119 El Calafate...... 175 Tafí del Valle ...... 121 Tierra del Fuego. . . . . 180 Cafayate...... 122 Ushuaia...... 181 Salta...... 126 Jujuy...... 130 BOLIVIA...... 199 Quebrada de La Paz...... 201 Humahuaca...... 132 Lake Titicaca...... 219 Atlantic Coast...... 134 Copacabana ...... 219 Mar del Plata...... 134 Isla del Sol...... 223 Villa Gesell...... 136 The Cordilleras & LAKE TITICACA, PERU P885 Pinamar...... 137 Yungas...... 226 Bahía Blanca...... 138 Coroico & Yolosa ...... 226 Sierra de la Ventana . . . . 139 Chulumani...... 229 Sorata...... 231 JIXIN YU/SHUTTERSTOCK© Central Argentina. . . . 140 San Luis...... 140 Southern Altiplano. . . . 232 Mendoza ...... 140 Oruro ...... 234 Uspallata...... 147 Uyuni ...... 237 San Juan ...... 148 Tupiza...... 243 Malargüe...... 150 Tarija...... 246 Las Leñas ...... 150 Central Highlands . . . . 250 The Lake District. . . . . 151 Cochabamba...... 251 Neuquén ...... 151 Sucre ...... 257 Junín de los Andes. . . . . 153 Potosí...... 264 FOZ DO IGUAÇU, BRAZIL Parque Nacional Lanín. . . . 154 Santa Cruz & Gran P358 Chiquitania...... 268 Contents
Santa Cruz ...... 268 Trancoso ...... 387 Parque Nacional Lauca. . .. 501 Samaipata...... 273 Maceió...... 387 Middle Chile ...... 502 Jesuit Mission Circuit. . . 274 Recife...... 388 Pichilemu...... 502 Amazon Basin...... 275 Olinda...... 392 Curicó...... 504 Rurrenabaque...... 276 Praia da Pipa...... 395 Maule Valley ...... 504 Parque Nacional Madidi . . . 281 Natal...... 396 Chillán ...... 505 Trinidad ...... 281 Canoa Quebrada ...... 398 Nevados de Chillán & Fortaleza ...... 398 Valle Las Trancas...... 506 BRAZIL...... 300 Jericoacoara...... 401 Concepción...... 506 Rio de Janeiro...... 304 São Luís...... 405 Los Ángeles...... 508 The Southeast . . . . . 327 Parque Nacional dos The Lakes District. . . . 508 Búzios ...... 327 Lençóis Maranhenses. . . . 408 Temuco ...... 508 Ilha Grande...... 329 The North ...... 408 Parque Nacional Conguillío...... 512 Paraty...... 331 Belém...... 409 Villarrica...... 512 São Paulo...... 332 Algodoal...... 414 Pucón...... 514 Belo Horizonte...... 341 Ilha de Marajó...... 414 Santarém...... 415 Parque Nacional Ouro Prêto...... 344 Huerquehue ...... 518 Manaus ...... 418 Tiradentes...... 346 Valdivia...... 519 Novo Airão...... 422 The South ...... 347 Osorno...... 522 The Amazon ...... 424 Curitiba ...... 348 Parque Nacional Paranaguá...... 350 Porto Velho...... 425 Puyehue...... 523 Ilha do Mel...... 350 Guajará-Mirim...... 426 Puerto Varas...... 524 Florianópolis & Ilha de Rio Branco...... 426 Ensenada...... 528 Santa Catarina...... 351 Xapuri...... 426 Parque Nacional Vicente Porto Alegre ...... 355 Pérez Rosales...... 528 Foz do Iguaçu...... 358 CHILE...... 444 Puerto Montt ...... 529 The Central West. . . . 361 Santiago...... 446 Chiloé...... 532 Brasília...... 362 Around Santiago ...... 463 Ancud...... 532 The Pantanal...... 364 Valparaíso...... 465 Castro...... 534 Cuiabá ...... 367 Northern Chile . . . . . 474 Dalcahue & Campo Grande...... 370 La Serena ...... 474 Isla Quinchao ...... 537 Bonito & Around...... 371 Elqui Valley ...... 479 Parque Nacional Chiloé. . . . 537 Corumbá...... 373 Copiapó...... 482 Quellón...... 538 The Northeast...... 374 Parque Nacional Northern Patagonia. . . 538 Salvador...... 375 Pan de Azúcar...... 484 Parque Nacional Pumalín...... 538 Lençóis...... 381 Antofagasta...... 484 Futaleufú...... 540 Morro de São Paulo. . . . . 382 Calama...... 485 Coyhaique...... 541 Itacaré...... 383 Chuquicamata ...... 486 Lago General Carrera . . . . 543 Ilhéus...... 384 San Pedro de Atacama. . .. 488 Chile Chico ...... 544 Porto Seguro...... 385 Iquique...... 493 Villa O’Higgins ...... 545 Arraial d’Ajuda ...... 386 Arica...... 498 Route 11 & Putre...... 501 Southern Patagonia. . .. 546 ON THE ROAD
Punta Arenas ...... 547 Southwest Colombia. . .. 639 Pacific Coast & Puerto Natales...... 549 Cali...... 639 Lowlands...... 735 Parque Nacional Popayán...... 644 Esmeraldas...... 735 Torres del Paine...... 552 San Agustín...... 647 Same & Tonchigüe. . . . . 736 Tierra del Fuego. . . . . 555 Tierradentro...... 649 Mompiche...... 737 Rapa Nui Desierto de la Tatacoa. . .. 650 Canoa...... 738 (Easter Island) . . . . . 556 Los Llanos...... 652 Manta...... 739 Puerto López...... 741 COLOMBIA . . . . . 570 Amazon Basin...... 654 Leticia...... 654 Ruta Spondylus ...... 743 Bogotá...... 574 Guayaquil...... 747 North of Bogotá. . . . . 587 ECUADOR ...... 672 Machala...... 752 Villa de Leyva...... 587 Quito...... 676 Galápagos Islands. . . . 753 Santuario de Iguaque. . . 591 Northern Highlands. . . . 696 Parque Nacional FRENCH GUIANA. . . . 775 Natural El Cocuy ...... 592 Mindo...... 696 Cayenne...... 778 San Gil...... 593 Otavalo...... 698 Cacao...... 781 Barichara...... 596 Ibarra...... 702 Central Highlands . . . . 703 Trésor & Kaw Cañon del Chicamocha. . . . 597 Nature Reserves...... 782 Bucaramanga...... 598 Parque Nacional Cotopaxi ...... 704 Kourou...... 782 Caribbean Coast. . . . . 599 Latacunga...... 704 Îles du Salut ...... 784 Santa Marta ...... 599 The Quilotoa Loop. . . . . 706 St Laurent du Maroni . . . . 785 Minca...... 602 Baños...... 707 Mana & Parque Nacional Awala-Yalimopo...... 788 Natural Tayrona ...... 603 Salinas...... 711 Palomino...... 605 Riobamba ...... 712 GUYANA...... 793 Volcán Chimborazo. . . . 714 Ciudad Perdida...... 606 Georgetown...... 796 Southern Highlands. . . 715 La Guajira Peninsula. . . . 608 Northwest Coast ...... 801 Cuenca...... 715 Barranquilla...... 609 Kaieteur Cartagena...... 610 Saraguro ...... 722 National Park ...... 802 Golfo de Urabá...... 618 Loja...... 723 Iwokrama Rainforest. . . . 803 San Andrés & Zamora...... 724 North Rupununi...... 804 Providencia...... 621 Parque Nacional South Rupununi...... 805 Northwest Colombia. . . . 623 Podocarpus...... 725 Medellín...... 623 Vilcabamba...... 725 PARAGUAY...... 813 The Oriente...... 727 Jardín...... 630 Asunción...... 816 Lago Agrio...... 727 Santa Fe de Antioquia. . . . 632 Southern Paraguay . . . 825 Guatapé...... 632 Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno. . . . 727 Encarnación ...... 825 Manizales...... 633 Coca...... 728 Pilar ...... 829 Parque Nacional Jesuit Missions...... 830 Natural Los Nevados. . . . 635 Tena ...... 730 Misahuallí ...... 731 Parque Nacional Armenia...... 636 San Rafael. ...... 830 Puyo...... 733 Salento...... 637 Eastern Paraguay. . . . 831 Valle de Cocora...... 638 Macas & Around...... 734 Contents
UNDERSTAND
Ciudad del Este ...... 831 Amazon Basin...... 942 History...... 1022 Mbaracayú Puerto Maldonado. . . . . 942 People & Culture . . . . 1029 Biosphere Reserve. . . . . 833 Parque Nacional Manu. . .. 944 Northern Paraguay. . . . 833 Pucallpa...... 945 Concepción...... 833 Yarinacocha...... 946 SURVIVAL Bahía Negra & the Iquitos ...... 947 GUIDE Pantanal Paraguayo. . . .. 834 Reserva Nacional The Chaco...... 835 Pacaya-Samiria. . . . . 950 Directory A–Z. . . . . 1034 PERU...... 848 SURINAME ...... 964 Transportation . . . . . 1042 Lima...... 852 Paramaribo...... 967 Health...... 1049 South Coast ...... 868 Commewijne River. . . . . 973 Language...... 1054 Paracas & the Upper Suriname River. . .. 973 Islas Ballestas...... 868 Index...... 1070 Brownsberg Nature Ica...... 869 Reserve & Brokopondo. . .. 975 Map Legend...... 1084 Huacachina...... 871 Central Suriname Nazca & Around...... 872 Nature Reserve...... 975 Tacna...... 874 Nieuw Nickerie...... 976 Arequipa & Galibi & Coppename Canyon Country. . . . . 875 Nature Reserves...... 976 Lake Titicaca...... 885 Cuzco & the URUGUAY...... 981 Sacred Valley. . . . . 890 Montevideo...... 984 Cuzco...... 890 Western Uruguay. . . . 992 The Sacred Valley...... 901 Colonia del Aguas Calientes...... 904 Sacramento...... 993 Machu Picchu...... 906 Carmelo...... 997 The Inca Trail...... 909 Mercedes...... 997 Choquequirao...... 911 Paysandú...... 998 Central Highlands . . . . 912 Salto...... 999 North Coast...... 915 Tacuarembó & Trujillo ...... 915 Around...... 1000 Huanchaco ...... 920 Eastern Uruguay. . . . 1002 Piriápolis...... 1002 SPECIAL Chiclayo...... 921 FEATURES Piura...... 923 Punta del Este. . . . . 1003 Cabo Polonio...... 1006 First Time Máncora...... 924 South America...... 22 Huaraz & the Punta del Diablo...... 1007 Off the Beaten Cordilleras...... 927 Parque Nacional Track Map ...... 38 Northern Highlands. . . . 934 Santa Teresa...... 1008 Big Adventures, Cajamarca...... 934 VENEZUELA ...... 1015 Small Budgets ...... 40 Chachapoyas ...... 937 Activities...... 47 Kuélap ...... 939 Venezuela Today. . . . . 1016 Tarapoto...... 940 History...... 1017 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 31
Itineraries
NICARAGUA GUINEA COSTA RICA Parque Nacional Cartagena ÷#Natural Tayrona •# SIERRA PANAMA VENEZUELA GUYANA •# LEONE Zona Cafetera Medellín SURINAME •# É
FRENCH # – COLOMBIA GUIANA Galápagos •# #_ QUITO Islands •#•# É •# #– •# Manaus Guayaquil Cuenca Leticia ECUADOR PERU Machu É
É Picchu BRAZIL •# LIMA#_ •# Cuzco •# BOLIVIA Lake Titicaca _# LA PAZ •# Salar de Uyuni
Rio de San Pedro •# PARAGUAY É •# Janeiro de Atacama •# Salta •#
Iguazú Falls É
Córdoba•# URUGUAY SANTIAGO #_ #_ BUENOS ARGENTINA AIRES •# Puerto •# Varas Bariloche CHILE FALKLAND ISLANDS
20 WEEKS The Big Loop
This classic South American journey takes in some of the continent’s most famous sites, including Andean peaks, Amazonian rainforest, Machu Picchu, Iguazú Falls and the Galápagos Islands. Start off in Buenos Aires. Spend several days exploring the mesmerizing Argentine capital. Go west to Bariloche for spectacular scenery then head to Chile’s verdant Lake District at Puerto Varas. Continue north to Santiago, then cross back into Argentina to Córdoba and gorgeous Salta before re-entering Chile at the desert oasis of San Pe- dro de Atacama. Head into Bolivia to experience the surreal Salar de Uyuni. Continue to La Paz and on to Peru via Lake Titicaca. Linger at ancient Cuzco and Machu Pic- chu before going to Lima and on to Ecuador. From Guayaquil, fly to the Galápagos Islands. Back on the mainland, visit colonial Cuenca and historic Quito. Pass into Colombia to the lush Zona Cafetera and bustling Medellín, then go to Cartagena for Caribbean allure. See beautiful Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona, then head towards Leticia and cross into Brazil. Head to Manaus for a jungle trip. Afterwards fly down to Rio de Janeiro for beaches and nightlife. Visit thundering Iguazú Falls and return to Buenos Aires. 32
#_BOGOTÁ VENEZUELA GUYANA
San Agustín SURINAME ÷#É Pasto •# Parque Nacional Natural Purac Otavalo •# •# •# •#Laguna de la Cocha Mindo #_ ECUADOR QUITO COLOMBIA Volcán Cotopaxi •# Cuenca
PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •# Vilcabamba
É PERU Huaraz •# Machu BRAZIL Picchu •# Cuzco PA C I F I C É •#•# O C E A N Inca Trail Cordillera •#•# Real Lake É It Titicaca BOLIVIA i nerar •# Salar de Uyuni
CHILE •# PARAGUAY Quebrada de i es Humahuaca
ARGENTINA É
Cerro URUGUAY Aconcagua •# Mendoza
8 WEEKS Andean High
For rugged adventure, unparalleled alpine vistas, rich indigenous cultures and colorful market towns, journey down the Andes from Colombia to Argentina. Along the way, you’ll pass through colonial towns, cloud forests and surreal desert landscapes. Fly into Bogotá, taking in the old historic center and lively nightlife. Continue south to San Agustín to explore pre-Columbian ruins, and on to Parque Nacional Natural Puracé, for Andean treks. Then go to Pasto and on to the beautifully set Laguna de la Cocha. Cross into Ecuador and visit Otavalo for markets and day trips to alpine lakes. Head west to Mindo for misty cloud-forest adventures. Continue south through Quito and on to Volcán Cotopaxi for hikes and majestic scenery. Visit colonial Cuenca, relax in laid-back Vilcabamba, then continue into Peru and down to Huaraz for trekking in the Cordillera Blanca. Spend a few days in Cuzco, then hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. Head across shimmering Lake Titicaca into Bolivia for more hiking in the Cordillera Real. Con- tinue south to the Salar de Uyuni, before crossing to Argentina by way of the spectacu- lar Quebrada de Humahuaca. In Argentina end the trip at enchanting Mendoza, near massive Cerro Aconcagua, the western hemisphere’s highest peak. 33
BUENOS #_ r a AIRES
CHI e ar entIna Parque É Nacional Lanín TRIP YOUR PLAN Parque PA C I F I C #÷ Nacional AT L A N T I C O C E A N ÷#Nahuel Huapi O C E A N •# É Bariloche Reserva #÷ Faunística •#Esquel #÷ Península Vald s •# Futaleufú rea Natural É Protegida É Punta Tombo Chile •# It Coyhaique Chico •# i nerar Capilla de•# •# Los Antiguos Mármol É
Fa K an i es Parque •#El Chaltén Nacional Los Is an s
Glaciares #÷ É
Parque Nacional#÷ É Torres del Paine Punta Arenas •# •# Tierra •# Ushuaia
del Fuego É
6 WEEKS Patagonian Pilgrimage
Mysterious, windswept, glacier-riddled Patagonia is one of South America’s most magi- cal destinations. Patagonia – and the archipelago of Tierra del Fuego – is best visited November through March, and you can see more for less money if you camp. Start in the outdoors-loving town of Bariloche. Take in the stunning Parque Na- cional Nahuel Huapi and Parque Nacional Lanín. Head south to Esquel, for a taste of the Old Patagonian Express. Travel west into Chile to the Andean hamlet of Futaleufú for outstanding rafting. Take the scenic Carretera Austral to Coyhaique and visit the caves of Capilla de Már- mol. Head to windswept Chile Chico on Lago General Carrera, then cross into Argen- tina to Los Antiguos. Bounce down to El Chaltén in spectacular Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, home of the wondrous Glaciar Perito Moreno, near El Calafate. Cross back into Chile at Puerto Natales to hike beneath the granite spires of Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Head to Punta Arenas, then south into Argentina’s Tier- ra del Fuego and bottom out at edge-of-the-earth Ushuaia. Travel north along the Atlantic, stopping for penguins in Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo and whales in Reserva Faunística Península Valdés. End the trip in Buenos Aires. 34 nICara a COsta rICa ana a AT L A N T I C O C E A N ene e a
ana FrenCH
PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN s rIna e Iana CO O BIa
Ilha de Maraj •# eC a Or •# Belém Manaus É •#Santarém
Iquitos •# •# É É Leticia Reserva •# •# Alter do É Nacional Pacaya-Samiria ÷# Chão É
It •# Yarinacocha Pucallpa •# i nerar Bra I
er i es
BO I Ia
PA C I F I C O C E A N CHI e ar entIna ara a
6 WEEKS Sailing the Mighty Amazon
This tough but rewarding journey travels the length of the fabled Amazon, incorporating wildlife-watching, historic cities and beautiful river beaches. Start in Pucallpa, Peru (a flight or bus ride from Lima). Before hitting the river, spend the night in nearby Yarinacocha, a lovely oxbow lake ringed by tribal villages. From Pucallpa, begin the classic slow riverboat journey north along the Río Ucayali to Iquitos. This northern jungle capital has a buoyant cultural scene and a bustling port, where you can catch a more comfortable cruise into Peru’s largest protected space, Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria. From Iquitos, get a boat to the tri-border region of Peru, Colombia and Brazil, and take a break in Colombia’s Leticia. From Leticia, it’s three more arduous days to the bustling city of Manaus, which is famed for its 19th-century opera house and buzzing markets. This is also a great base for jungle excursions. Chug east to Santarém, where you can visit the white-sand beaches of Alter do Chão. Another 3½ days further, and you’ll reach culturally rich Belém, a good spot for sampling traditional Amazonian cuisine. From here, cross over to Ilha de Marajó, a massive river island dotted with friendly towns, wandering buffaloes and pleasant beaches. 35 JESSKRAFT/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es DADOPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Iquitos (p947), Peru
Bottom: Traditional cuisine, Belém (p413), Peru 36 36
Shell each #
ene e a É É
EOR ETO PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN #_ ana ieuw
É É ickerie
•# PARA ARI O
É É #_ Awala- alimoto
Kaieteur •#
É les du Salut É Falls É •#
•# É •# Kourou
•# ÷# Cacao
It Central É
i nerar •# É Annai Suriname •# Nature Reserve FrenCH Oiapo ue •# Iana Lethem s rIna e i es
Bra I
4 WEEKS Exploring the Guianas
They’re expensive, they’re hard to reach, they’re largely unpopulated, and they can be very, very captivating. And they’re definitely off the beaten path. Where you start depends on where you’re coming from: Guyana via New York, Cayenne via Paris or Para- maribo via Amsterdam. For the sake of argument, let’s say you’re traveling overland from Brazil. From Oiapoque in Brazil, cross the border via the new bridge spanning the Rio Oi- apoque into French Guiana. You’re now officially off the beaten track. Make your way by bus across the verdant, forgotten landscape (complete with burned-out cars along the roadside) to Cacao. From here, embark upon the two-day hike along Sentier Molokoï for some wildlife-spotting fun. Then make your way up to Kourou, where you can witness rockets blast off from South America’s only satellite launcher. Take a ferry (or a more comfy catamaran) across shark-infested waters to the Îles du Salut, a former island prison where you can sling up a hammock in the old prison dormitories! Back on the mainland, head up the coast and watch the turtles nesting (April to July only) at Awala-Yalimopo before crossing into Suriname. Hang out for a few days in weirdly wonderful Paramaribo, and set up a tour into the majestic Central Suriname Na- ture Reserve. From Paramaribo, continue west to Nieuw Nickerie, where you cross into Guyana. Head up to Georgetown, and make a detour by boat up to isolated Shell Beach or to see the spectacular Kaieteur Falls. Back in Georgetown, get a bus south across the majestic Rupununi Savannas, stopping in Annai and Lethem to savor the vast isolation. 37 37
Parque Nacional dos Alc ntara Len is Maranhenses •# •#÷# •# Jericoacoara Fernando de
S o •#Noronha Lu s É Olinda #– •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN
É Bra I er •# Salvador
•#Arraial d A uda BO I Ia •#Trancoso
É
Paraty It ara a •# •# Rio de Janeiro i nerar •# É CHI e Ilha Grande
•# Florian polis
ar entIna i es r a É O TE IDEO •#Punta del Diablo UE OS #_ #_•#•#Cabo Polonia AIRES # Punta del Este
6 WEEKS The Atlantic Coast
Colonial towns, Afro-Brazilian culture, gorgeous beaches and buzzing nightlife set the stage for an epic 7400km ramble up the Atlantic coast. Surfing, snorkeling, forest treks and urban exploring are all essential experiences along the way. Start off in Argentina, spending a few days taking in the charms of Buenos Aires before ferrying over to historic Montevideo. Follow Uruguay’s coastline north through glitzy Punta del Este, dune-fringed Cabo Polonio and the laid-back beach town of Punta del Diablo. Make your way to Florianópolis, gateway to secluded beaches and stunning scen- ery, then head up to the scenic colonial town of Paraty, and rainforest-covered Ilha Grande. Continue to Rio de Janeiro for pretty beaches, lush scenery and samba-fueled nightlife. Fly to Porto Seguro and continue to Trancoso and Arraial d’Ajuda – both entic- ing, laid-back towns near cliff-backed beaches. Spend a few days in Salvador, Brazil’s mesmerizing Afro-Brazilian gem. Further up the coast, visit pretty Olinda, then catch a flight from Recife to the spectacular Fernando de Noronha. Back on the mainland, travel north, stopping at the backpackers’ paradise of Jeri- coacoara and the surreal dunes of Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses. The final stops are reggae-charged São Luís and colonial Alcântara.
38
PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN CK TRA EATEN B E H T OFF
# km South America Off the Beaten Track e miles
SLA L EA A •# •# P PA SA LE M TA s •# •# •# t •# r r I s e ICO HOn ras ate a a Santa arta Coro •# CARACAS nICara a •# Cuman e sa a Or •# #_ •# PA E AC AL S Cartagena •# aracaibo •#Tucupita LE S MA A HE SES Ciudad •# rida •# COsta ana a olivar EOR ETO C s #_ rICa •# Santa Elena PARA ARI O i ucaramanga •# •# #_ de Uair n ana edell n Puerto •# •# Cayenne #_ Ayacucho s rIna e FrenCH e oa •# R O OT i Iana ista P PA •# i SA LE FranCe M TA Esmeraldas CO O BIa acap •# •# •# i e n el m UITO #_ Coca •# eC a Or •#Santar m S o Lu s SLA anaus •# Puerto uaya uil •# •# •# •# L EA A Cuenca •# #÷ Ayora Leticia
n
Bra I i •# Fortale a er PA E AC AL I Piura •# Porto S LE S eC a Or V# K LAP •# •# atal Chiclayo elho MA A HE SES •# i •# Pucallpa •# n i
Tru illo t •#
Recife •# Huara n Puerto •# acei aldonado LI A #_ Ayacucho •# Rurrenaba ue •# •# •# •# •# •# Pisco •# •# Trinidad Salvador Ica Cuiab •# LA PA oi nia #_ RAS LIA •# Ilh us #_ Santa Cru •# o uegua •# •# •# •# Porto Seguro n K LAP Campo Oruro #_ elo SUCRE rande Hori onte e I ui ue •# •# •# 4 ara a Tari a•# C •#THE CHAC S o San Salvador Paulo Rio de Antofagasta •# Ciudad •# •# de Ju uy •# Janeiro 4 #_ del Este •# •# ASU CI •# Curitiba •# Puerto Encarnaci n •# Igua Tucum n •# Florian polis ar entIna Ca ias do Sul •##÷PA E AC AL E La Serena •# •# C rdoba Santa Fe APA A S A SE A •# Porto Alegre •# r a •# THE CHAC endo a Pelotas •# Rosar4io •# 44 SA TIA O #_ •# PA E AC AL E #_ Punta del Diablo Santa Cru •# UE OS #_ APA A S A SE A AIRES O TE IDEO Concepci n •# I B •# ar del Plata Temuco •# aldivia •# •# Puerto ariloche •# •# Puerto ontt El ols n •# adryn PA E AC AL CHI e PATAG A •# Coyhai ue #÷ t PA E AC AL PATAG A Fa K an El Calafate•# Is an s •# •# •# R o allegos Stanley Puerto •# Punta Arenas atales •#
Ushuaia
PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN E H T OFF CK TRA EATEN B 39 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1067
Behind the Scenes
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OUR READERS Isabel Albiston Many thanks to the travelers who used the Huge thanks to MaSovaida Morgan, Patricio last edition and wrote to us with helpful Santos, Cé Martínez, Jessica Pollack, Madi hints, useful advice and interesting anec- Lang, Miles Lewis, Sorrel Moseley-Williams, dotes: Jazmín Arellano, Mercedes Fauda, Lorena Amélie Baechler, Anne Jachmann, Anouk Lubbe, Polo, Alan Seabright, Bárbara Poey, Patricia Arthur Châteauvert, Bethan Phillips, Boon Quek, Franco, Nano Aznarez, Maria Elia Capella, Cain Papettas, Carla Doyle, Catalina Tanasescu, Chris Magda Dobrajska and my family. Your insider Verrill, Ciarán Ó Súilleabháin, Dominik Hofmann, Elin tips, friendship and support are greatly appre- Lyckestam, Etienne Rompre, Hannah Wallin, Heather ciated. Besos for Facundo, Verita, Felipe, Ciro Monell, Lisa Howarth, Lucas Liu, Luke Porter, Manuel and Lottie and Alice, and special thanks to Gaviria, Marcus Draxler, Marta Alfonsea Zaragoza, asadores Marcelo Larroque and Julian Mule – Michael Weber, Natasha Walker, Piotr Dziadosz, Reiss un aplauso! Draper & Kaylie McArthur, Susanne Neuenschwander, Gregor Clark Zak Hirsch Muchísimas gracias to the many Uruguayans and resident expatriates who shared their love WRITER THANKS of the country and local knowledge with me, especially Gloria, Tino, Miguel, Monica, Alain, Regis St Louis Cecilia, Eduardo, Aaron, Victoria, Karen, Juan Countless locals and expats provided help Manuel, Nahir and Pedro. Back home, besos and friendship along the way, and I’m deeply y abrazos to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, who grateful to Cristiano Nogueira, Jackki Saysell, always make coming home the best part of Eduardo Cruxen, Ian Papareskos, Alberto Ar- the trip. mendáriz, Bindu Mathur, Tom Lemesurier, Ger- man and Daniel Olano, Michael Nagy, Marcelo Mark Johanson Esteves, André Paranhos, Toninho, Kevin Raub, Muchas gracias to all the Chilean and Rapa Samantha Aquim, Gilson Martins, Antônia Nui people who warmed my heart and filled Leite Barbosa, and Lenny Niemeyer. As always my belly with so much manjar and Carmenere heartfelt thanks to Cassandra, Magdalena and that it was often impossible to work. Thanks Genevieve for their continued support. to Felipe Bascuñán, Megan Snedden, Vanessa Petersen and Carla Andrade for joining me for portions of the trip and offering expertise. 1068 Additional thanks go out to Paula Santa Ana, hotel owners, expert arepa makers, and inno- Franz Schubert, Grant Phelps, Gonzalo Silva cent passersby who helped me, unwittingly and Sandra Luz La Torre for being fountains or otherwise, during my research trip. Special of knowledge along the way. thanks to my wife, Liz for joining me on the road in Cartagena and Santa Marta. Anna Kaminski Huge thanks to Bailey for entrusting me with Paul Smith BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND half of this beguiling country, to my fellow Thanks to my family Carol, Shawn and Ewan scribe Brendan and to everyone who’s helped for their patience with me being away. Karina me along the way. In particular: Jose and Atkinson and Joe Sarvary in Pilar and Irma the Graffiti Tour folks in Medellin; Tony in Ramírez in Sta Maria de Fe were extremely Popayán, Soledad; and the mountain biking helpful. Bailey Freeman was always quick folk of Salento; Kolibri Hostel in Pereira; Glo- with replies to my questions. Special thanks ria in Guatape; Finca El Maco and Pacho in also for the great social and conservation San Agustín; plus the driver who successfully work being done by Para La Tierra, Santa navigated the Trampolin de la Muerte. Maria Education Fund, Pro Cosara, Guyra Paraguay and FMB to make Paraguay a bet- Brian Kluepfel ter place to live and visit. My wife Paula Paz, who is always with me, even when we are apart. My editor Bailey, for Luke Waterson putting up with all the silly WhatsApp photos. Combining a huge capital like Quito with My amigo para siempre Goyo, a voice of the Andes, Amazon and Galápagos in one reason in traveling tempests. My Lonely plan- research trip is an endeavour – and I couldn’t et colleagues Neill and Cheree for overseas have done it without the help of Mark Thurb- cheer. My family, who don’t like me doing er in Quito, Fausto Andi in Coca, Matt Terry this, but nonetheless pray for me. For every in Tena and Tony Lloyd in Cuenca. Thanks bus driver in Ecuador: I wouldn’t have made it to the unnamed bus drivers, taxi drivers, without you guys! speedboat and canoe operators, pilots and administrative assistants at umpteen hotels, Tom Masters restaurants and other businesses that eased Huge thanks to the cast of colourful charac- the passage by providing me with insightful ters in three countries that helped me with information. research, but in particular to Amarylis Lewis at Wilderness Expeditions, Candace Phillips at Visit Rupununi, Charlie and Christian in ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Georgetown, Celeste Brash and Anna Kamin- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson ski, Oren Jarvis, Ayla Kenyon, Sebastian De- BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of Freitas, Kayla DeFreitas, Leroy Ignacio, Colin the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Edwards and Erienne Hynes-Lourens. ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44. Brendan Sainsbury Cover photograph: Llama, Peru, Agatha Kadar/ Muchas gracias to all the skilled bus drivers, Shutterstock © helpful tourist information staff, generous 1069
THIS BOOK Andy Symington, Phillip Tang, Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Luke Waterson and Wendy Assisting Editors Sarah This 14th edition of Lonely Yanagihara. It was curated by Bailey, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Planet’s South America Regis St Louis, Isabel Albiston, Chin, Joel Cotterell, Barbara guidebook was researched Celeste Brash, Bailey Freeman Delissen, Carly Hall, Gabrielle and written by Regis St Louis, and Brendan Sainsbury. This Innes, Jodie Martire, Lou SCENES THE BEHIND Isabel Albiston, Robert Balk- guidebook was produced by McGregor, Alison Morris, Lau- ovich, Celeste Brash, Jade the following: ren O’Connell, Charlotte Orr, Bremner, Cathy Brown, Gregor Destination Editor Bailey Monique Perrin, Sam Wheeler Clark, Alex Egerton, Michael Freeman Assisting Cartographers Grosberg, Anthony Ham, Mark Senior Product Editor Mick Garrett, Valentina Johanson, Anna Kaminski, Saralinda Turner Kremenchutskaya Brian Kluepfel, Tom Masters, Regional Senior Cover Researcher Naomi Carolyn McCarthy, MaSovaida Cartographer Corey Parker Morgan, Anja Mutić, Kevin Hutchison Melanie Dankel, Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Thanks to Sandie Kestell Amy Lynch, Claire Rourke Adam Skolnick, Paul Smith, Product Editor ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1070
Index
ABBREVIATIONS within Argentina 197 Kuélap (Per) 939-40 exchange rates 61 Arg Argentina within Bolivia 297 Las Huacas del Sol y de la food 60, 61, 190, 193 Bol Bolivia within Brazil 442 Luna (Per) 919-20 gay travelers 194 Bra Brazil within Chile 569 Lima (Per) 855 health 193 Chi Chile within Colombia 671 Nazca Lines (Per) 872-3 highlights 62 Col Colombia within Ecuador 772 Parque Nacional Rapa Nui history 186-8 (Chi) 558-9 Ecu Ecuador within French Guiana 792 hitchhiking 198 Quilmes (Arg) 126 FG French Guiana within Guyana 811-12 holidays 195-6 San Agustín (Col) 647-8 Guy Guyana within Paraguay 846 indigenous peoples 188-9 San Ignacio Miní (Arg) Par Paraguay within Peru 962-3 inflation 194 106 Per Peru within Suriname 980 internet access 193-4 Tafí del Valle (Arg) 121 Sur Suriname Alausí (Ecu) 715 internet resources 61 Tierradentro (Col) 650 Uru Uruguay Alcântara (Bra) 405 itineraries 61 Tilcara (Arg) 132 Aleijadinho 344, 347, 431 language 194 Tiwanaku (Bol) 218-19 Algodoal (Bra) 414 legal matters 194 Túcume (Per) 923 A Allende, Isabel 562 LGBT+ travelers 194 accessible travel 1034, see Uspallata (Arg) 147 Allende, Salvador 451, 560 local transportation 198 also individual countries architecture Alta Gracia (Arg) 116-17 money 194-5 accommodations 22, 1034-5, Brazil 431 see also individual cities, Alter do Chão (Bra) 417-18 music 190 colonial 24 individual countries altitude sickness 1052 national parks 192 Ecuador 765 activities 25-6, 27-30, 40-6, Altos de Lircay (Chi) 506 opening hours 195 Área Natural Protegida 47-54, see also Amazon Basin 11, 34, 11 politics 186 individual activities, Punta Tombo (Arg) 172 Bolivia 275-84, population 188-9 individual countries 276-7 Areguá (Par) 823 postal services 195 Achupallas (Ecu) 721 Brazil 424-5, 40 Arequipa (Per) 875-83, 876, religion 189 Aguas Calientes (Per) 904- Colombia 654-9 878-9 safety 196 6, 905 Peru 942-51 Argentina 55, 60-198, 62, sports 191 air passes 1044 Ancud (Chi) 532-4 88, 112, 141, 152 telephone services 196 air travel 1042-3, 1044 Andes, the 32 accommodations 60, toilets 196 to/from Argentina 197 animal bites 1052 192, 193 tourist information 196 to/from Bolivia 297 animals, see wildlife- activities 192 watching, individual tours 198 to/from Brazil 441 arts 189-90 species travel seasons 60 to/from Chile 568 bathrooms 196 Antarctica 185 travel to/from 197 to/from Colombia 670 border crossings 99, 104, Anticura (Chi) 523 106, 109, 133, 173 travel within 197-8 to/from Ecuador 772 Antofagasta (Chi) 484-5 budgeting 61 vacations 195-6 to/from French archaeological sites, see Guiana 792 business hours 195 visas 196 also Inca sites to/from Guyana 811 climate 60 volunteering 196-7 Ayacucho (Per) 912-15 to/from Paraguay 846 consulates 193 weather 60 Buenos Aires (Arg) 69 to/from Peru 962 costs 193, 194-5 wildlife 191-2 Chan Chan (Per) 919 to/from Suriname 980 culture 188-9 women travelers 197 Ciudad Perdida (Col) currency 194-5 work 197 to/from Uruguay 1014 606-7 cycling 197 Arica (Chi) 498-500 El Fósil (Col) 591 drinks 61, 190-1 Armenia (Col) 636-7 El Fuerte (Bol) 273 electricity 192-3 Arraial d’Ajuda (Bra) 386-7 Map Pages 000 Huaraz (Per) 928 embassies 193 arts, see individual arts, Photo Pages Iquique area (Chi) 497-8 000 environment 191-2 individual countries 1071 Assis, Joaquim Maria Cabo San Juan del Guía Bahía de Caráquez Bolivia 55, 199-299, 202-3, Machado de 432 (Col) 604 (Ecuu) 739 233 Asunción (Par) 816-22, Canoa (Ecu) 738 Bonito (Bra) 372 accommodations 199, 820-1, 818-19 Canoa Quebrada (Bra) Chaco, the (Par) 835 292 accommodations 817-19 398 Foz do Iguaçu (Bra) 358 activities 292 drinking & nightlife 821 Capurganá (Col) 619 Isla Isabela (Ecu) 759-60 arts 289-90
entertainment 821, Commewijne River Islas Ballestas (Per) border crossings 200, INDEX events 817 (Sur) 973 868-9 223, 242, 244, 249, 275 festivals 817 Encarnación (Par) 825 Mbaracayú Biosphere business hours 294 Fortaleza (Bra) 399 Reserve (Par) 833 medical services 821 climate 199 A–B money 822 Ilha de Marajó (Bra) Minca (Col) 603 consulates 292-3
414-15 safety 821 Mindo (Ecu) 697 costs 200 Ilha do Mel (Bra) 351 shopping 821 Parque Nacional Lauca culture 288-91 Ilha Grande (Bra) 329 (Chi) 501 tourist information 822 currency 200 Iquique (Chi) 493-514 Parque Nacional Madidi tours 817 economy 284-5 Itacaré (Bra) 383-4 (Bol) 281 travel to/from 822 electricity 292 Jericoacoara (Bra) 401-2 Parque Nacional San travel within 822 embassies 292-3 La Serena (Chi) 474 Rafael (Par) 830 Atacama Desert (Chi) 14, environment 290-1 Maceió (Bra) 388 Parque Nacional Torres 490, 491, 15 del Paine (Chi) 552 exchange rates 200 Máncora (Per) 924-5 Atacames (Ecu) 736 Peperpot Nature Park food 199, 200, 293 Atins (Bra) 408 Manta (Ecu) 740 (Sur) 973 gay travelers 293-4 ATMs 1036-7 Mompiche (Ecu) 737 Santa Cruz (Bol) 269 health 293 Awala-Yalimopo (FG) 788-9 Natal (Bra) 396 boat travel 1043-4, 1045 highlights 202-3 Ayacucho (Per) 912-15 Palomino (Col) 605 to/from Argentina 197 history 284-8 Ayampe (Ecu) 743-5 Parque Nacional Marinho to/from Ecuador 772 holidays 295 de Fernando de Aymará language 1063 indigenous peoples 288 Noronha (Bra) 392 to/from French Guiana Aymará New Year 219 792 internet access 293 Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona (Col) 603 to/from Paraguay 846 internet resources 200 to/from Peru 962 itineraries 200 B Pichilemu (Chi) 502-3 to/from Suriname 980 legal matters 293 Bachelet, Michelle 561 Pinamar (Arg) 137 to/from Uruguay 1014 LGBT+ travelers 293-4 Bahía Blanca (Arg) 138-9 Playa Blanca (Col) 617 within Bolivia 297-8 maps 294 Bahía de Caráquez (Ecu) Porto Seguro (Bra) 385 739 Praia da Pipa (Bra) 395 within Brazil 442 money 294 Bahía Inglesa (Chi) 484 Providencia (Col) 623 within Chile 569 national parks & reserves 291 Bahía Negra (Par) 834-5 Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 757 within Ecuador 772-3 opening hours 294 Bañado la Estrella (Arg) 104 Puerto Baquerizo within French Guiana 792 politics 286-8 Baños (Ecu) 707-11, Moreno (Ecu) 759 within Guyana 812 population 289 708, 45 Punta del Diablo (Uru) bargaining 23, 1037 1007 within Paraguay 847 postal services 295 Barichara (Col) 596-7 Punta del Este (Uru) within Peru 963 religion 289 1003 within Suriname 980 safety 295 Bariloche (Arg) 157-61, 158 Rémire-Montjoly (FG) sports 290 Barra (Bra) 375 Bogotá (Col) 574-87, 576-7 783 telephone services 295 Barranquilla (Col) 609-10 accommodations 578-80 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 305 tourist information 295-6 Barreirinhas (Bra) 408 courses 575 Same (Ecu) 736-7 travel seasons 199 bathrooms 1040, see also drinking & nightlife Sapzurro (Col) 619 individual countries 582-4 travel to/from 296-7 Shell Beach (Guy) 801 beaches 25, 41 entertainment 584 travel within 297 Trancoso (Bra) 387 Algodal (Bra) 414 events 578 vacations 295 Villa Gesell (Arg) 136 Alter do Chão (Bra) 417 festivals 578 visas 296 Arica (Chi) 498 Belém (Bra) 409-14, food 580-2 volunteering 296 412, 35 Arraial d’Ajuda (Bra) 386 safety 585 weather 199 Belo Horizonte (Bra) 341-4 Atacames (Ecu) 736 shopping 584 wildlife 291 bicycle travel, see cycling Awala-Yalimopo (FG) 788 sights 574-5 wineries 250 Biocentro Güembé (Bol) Bahía Inglesa (Chi) 484 tourist information 584 work 296-7 269 Baia do Sancho (Bra) tours 575-8 Bonito (Bra) 371-3 bird-watching 392 travel to/from 585-7 books 21, see also Área Natural Protegida Búzios (Bra) 327 travel within 587 literature, individual Punta Tombo (Arg) 172 countries Cabo de la Vele (Col) Bolívar, Simón 611, 660, Ayampe (Ecu) 744 608-9 1018, 1026 history 1024, 1025, 1027 1072 border crossings 1043 arts 431-2 breweries Cachagua (Chi) 473 Argentina-Bolivia 133 bathrooms 439 Santa Fe (Arg) 94 Cachi (Arg) 125-6 Argentina-Brazil 99, 109 border crossings 372, Valdivia (Chi) 519 Cafayate (Arg) 122-5, 123 Argentina-Chile 173 421, 423, 426, 427, Vicuña (Chi) 479 Cajamarca (Per) 934-7, 441-2 Argentina-Paraguay 104, Brokopondo (Sur) 975 935 106, 109 business hours 438 Brownsberg Nature Cajón del Maipo (Chi) 463-5
INDEX INDEX Bolivia-Argentina 244, climate 300 Reserve (Sur) 975 Calama (Chi) 485-6 249 consulates 436 Bucaramanga (Col) 598-9 Caleta Tortel (Chi) 544 Bolivia-Brazil 275 costs 301 budgeting 21, 42-6, Cali (Col) 639-44, 640
B–C Bolivia-Chile 242 culture 430-1 see also individual Campo Grande (Bra) 370-1 Bolivia-Peru 223 currency 438 countries Caño Cristales (Col) 652-4 Brazil-Bolivia 372, 426, drinks 301 Buenos Aires (Arg) 12, 63- Canoa (Ecu) 738-9 427 economy 430 86, 64, 66-7, 76-7, 13 Canoa Quebrada (Bra) 398 Brazil-Colombia 423 electricity 435 accommodations 72-5 Cañon del Chicamocha Brazil-Guyana 421 activities 71 embassies 436 (Col) 597-8 Brazil-Peru 423, 427 courses 71-2 environment 433-5 Cañón Del Colca (Per) Chile-Argentina 545 exchange rates 301 drinking & nightlife 79-81 883-5 Chile-Bolivia 492, 500 food 300, 301, 338, entertainment 81-3 canyoning Chile-Peru 500 436-7 events 72 Cuenca (Ecu) 718 Colombia-Brazil 657 fraud 439 festivals 72 Esquel (Arg) 164 Colombia-Ecuador 652 gay travelers 438 food 75-9 Jardín (Col) 631 Colombia-Panama 620 health 437 safety 83 Puerto Varas (Chi) 524 Colombia-Peru 657 highlights 302-3 shopping 83 Capilla del Monte (Arg) 116 Ecuador-Colombia 703 history 428-30 sights 63-71 Capurganá (Col) 619 Ecuador-Peru 724, 726, hitchhiking 443 tourist information 84-5 car & motorcycle travel 729, 753 holidays 438-9 tours 72 to/from Bolivia 297 French Guiana-Brazil indigenous peoples 428 travel to/from 84, 85-6 to/from Chile 569 788 internet access 437 travel within 86 to/from Peru 962 French Guiana-Suriname internet resources 301 bus travel 1043, 1045-6, 787 within Argentina 198 itineraries 301 see also travel within Guyana-Brazil 807 under individual cities within Bolivia 298 language courses 437-8 Guyana-Suriname 801 to/from Argentina 197 within Brazil 442-3 legal matters 438 Paraguay-Argentina 822, to/from Bolivia 297 within Chile 569 LGBT+ travelers 438 828, 830 to/from Brazil 441-2 within Colombia 671 maps 438 Paraguay-Bolivia 836 to/from Chile 568 within Ecuador 773 money 438 Paraguay-Brazil 832 to/from Peru 962 within French Guiana 792 music 432-3 Peru-Bolivia 889, 946 to/from Uruguay 1014 within Guyana 812 national parks 434 Peru-Brazil 946, 950 within Argentina 197-8 within Paraguay 847 opening hours 438 Peru-Chile 875 within Bolivia 298 within Peru 963 politics 427-8, 430 Peru-Colombia 950 within Brazil 442 within Suriname 980 population 430 Peru-Ecuador 925 within Chile 569 within Uruguay 1014 public holidays 438-9 Suriname-French Guiana within Colombia 671 Caraíva (Bra) 387 971 religion 431 within Ecuador 773 Carmelo (Uru) 997 Suriname-Guyana 976 responsible travel 439 within Guyana 812 Carnaval 27 Uruguay-Argentina 992 safety 439 within Paraguay 847 Cajamarca (Per) 935 Uruguay-Brazil 1009 sports 433 within Peru 963 Cayenne (FG) 778 Borges, Jorge Luis 189 telephone services 439 within Suriname 980 Circuito de Oro (Par) 823 Bouterse, Desiré 976-7 toilets 439 within Uruguay 1014 Encarnación (Par) 19, 27, tourist information 439 825, 19 Brasília (Bra) 362-4, 363 business hours, see tours 443 Brazil 56, 300-443, 302-3, individual countries Gualeguaychú (Arg) 98 travel to/from 441-2 328, 348, 361, 374, Búzios (Bra) 327-9 Montevideo (Uru) 989 410-11 travel within 339, 442-3 Olinda (Bra) 393 accessible travel 435 vacations 438-9 Oruro (Bol) 236 accommodations 300, visas 439-40 C Paraguay 823 Caacupé (Par) 823 435 volunteering 440 Quito (Ecu) 682 Cabanaconde (Per) 884-5 weather 300 Recife (Bra) 390 Cabo de la Vela (Col) wildlife 433-4 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 608-9 women travelers 440 311, 7 Map Pages 000 Cabo Polonio (Uru) 1006-7 work 440-1 Salvador (Bra) 377 Photo Pages 000 Cacao (FG) 781-2 1073 Carretera Austra (Chi) holidays 567 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 309 tourist information 669 538, 539 indigenous peoples 523 Volcán Chimborazo (Ecu) travel to/from 670-1 Cartagena (Col) 17, 610-17, insurance 566 714-15 travel within 671 612-13, 17 internet access 566 Volcán Cotopaxi (Ecu) vacations 667 Castro (Chi) 534-6 internet resources 445 704 visas 669 Catarata de Gocta (Per) itineraries 445 clothing 22 volunteering 669
939 language 452 coca 228 weather 570 INDEX caves legal matters 566 Coca (Ecu) 728-30 women travelers 669-70 Caverna de los LGBT+ travelers 566 Cochabamba (Bol) 251-6, work 670 Guácharos (Col) 631 maps 566 252 Colonia del Sacramento C Cueva de los Tayos (Ecu) Cochrane (Chi) 544 money 567 (Uru) 18, 993-6, 994- 734-5 Coelho, Paulo 432 national parks 564-5 5, 19 Cueva del Esplendor Coimata (Bol) 250 Commewijne River (Sur) (Col) 630 opening hours 567 Colán (Per) 926 973 Gruta de San Pedro politics 559, 561 Colchagua Valley (Chi) 502 Comodoro Rivadavia (Bol) 231 population 562 Colombia 56, 570-671, (Arg) 172 Roteiro da Caverna Aroe postal services 567 572-3 Concepción (Chi) 506-8 Jari e Lagoa Azul public holidays 567 accessible travel 664 Concepción (Par) 833-5 (Bra) 369 safety 567 accommodations 570, consulates 1035, see also Cayenne (FG) 778-81, sports 563 664-5 individual countries 780-1 telephone services 567-8 activities 665 cooking courses cell phones 20, 1040, see toilets 568 also telephone services arts 663-4 Arequipa (Per) 879 tourist information 568 under individual border crossings 620, Cuzco (Per) 894 countries travel seasons 444 652, 657 Puerto López (Ecu) 742 Central Suriname Nature travel to/from 568-9 business hours 667 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) Reserve (Sur) 16, travel within 569 climate 570 308-9 975-6, 16 vacations 567 consulates 665 Valparaíso (Chi) 467 Cerro de Monserrate visas 568 costs 571 Copacabana (Bol) 219-23, (Col) 575 volunteering 568 culture 662-3 222 Cerro Pan de Azúcar (Uru) weather 444 currency 667 Copiapó (Chi) 482-4 1002 Chile Chico (Chi) 544 electricity 665 Coppename Nature Chachapoyas (Per) 937-9 Chilean miners 482, 502 embassies 665 Reserve (Sur) 976 Chaco, the (Par) 835-8 Chillán (Chi) 505-6 environment 664 Cordillera de los Frailes Chan Chan (Per) 919 (Bol) 263-4 Chiloé (Chi) 532-8, 533 etiquette 667-8 Chávez, Hugo 1016, 1020 Cordilleras, the Chivay (Per) 883-4 exchange rates 571 Chiclayo (Per) 921-3 Bolivia 226-32 Choquequirao (Per) 911-12 food 570, 571, 665-6 children, travel with 1035 Peru 927-34, Chordeleg (Ecu) 722 gay travelers 666-7 927 Chile 56, 444-569, 446, Chugchilán (Ecu) 706 health 666 Córdoba (Arg) 111-16, 475, 487, 503, 539 , Chulumani (Bol) 229-30 highlights 572-3 114 43 accommodations 444, Chuqui (Chi) 486 Coroico (Bol) 226-9 565 history 659-62 Chuquicamata (Chi) 486-8 Coronel Bogado (Par) 825 activities 565 holidays 667 cinema, see film Correa, Rafael 760, 764 arts 562-3 internet access 666 Circuito de Oro (Par) 822-3 Corrientes (Arg) 100-2 border crossings 445, internet resources 571 Corumbá (Bra) 373 492, 500, 545, 568-9 Ciudad del Este (Par) itineraries 571 831-2 Cotacachi (Ecu) 702 business hours 567 language courses 666 Ciudad Perdida (Col) 606-7 Cosquín (Arg) 117 climate 444 legal matters 666 climate 20, 27-30, see costs 21, 40-6, see also consulates 565-6 LGBT+ travelers 666-7 also individual individual countries costs 445 maps 667 countries courses, see cooking money 667 culture 561-2 climbing 51 courses, dance classes, music 663 currency 445 Baños (Ecu) 708-9 langauge courses, opening hours 667 individual cities cycling 569 Cordillera Real (Bol) 230 politics 659 Coyhaique (Chi) 541-3 embassies 565-6 Huaraz (Per) 930 postal services 667 credit cards 1037, see also environment 563-5 La Paz (Bol) 205-6 exchange rates 445 public holidays 667 money under individual Mendoza (Arg) 143, 144 countries food 444, 563, 566 responsible travel 667-8 Parque Nacional crime, see safety gay travelers 566 Cotopaxi (Ecu) 704 safety 668 Cruz del Cóndor (Per) 884 health 566 Parque Nacional Nevado sports 664 highlights 446 Tres Cruces (Chi) 483 telephone services Cuenca (Ecu) 715-21, 716-17 history 559-61 Pucón (Chi) 515 668-9 1074 Cuiabá (Bra) 367-9 disabilities, travelers with, gay travelers 769 etiquette 23 culture, see individual see accessible travel health 768 events 27-30, see also countries Dirty War 187 highlights 674-5 individual cities Curarrehue (Chi) 518 discount cards 1035 history 762-4 exchange rates, see Curicó (Chi) 504 diseases 1050-2 holidays 770 individual countries Curitiba (Bra) 348-50 diving indigenous peoples 763 INDEX INDEX currency, see individual Bonito (Bra) 371-2 internet access 769 F countries Capurganá (Col) 619 internet resources 673 Falklands War 187-8 customs regulations 1035 Cartagena (Col) 611 itineraries 673 FARC 585, 659, 661, 662,
C–F Cuzco (Per) 890-9, 892 Fernando de Noronha language 769 668, 770 accommodations 895-6 (Bra) 392 legal matters 769 Fernando de Noronha activities 893-4 Hanga Roa (Chi) 557 LGBT+ travelers 769 (Bra) 392 courses 894 Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 757 money 769 Ferreñafe (Per) 923 drinking & nightlife 897 Puerto Baquerizo national parks 766 ferries, see boat travel Moreno (Ecu) 759 entertainment 897 opening hours 769 festivals 27-30, 41, see also Puerto López (Ecu) 742 Carnaval, individual events 895 politics 760-2, 763-4 San Andrés (Col) 621-2 cities festivals 895 population 764 Taganga (Col) 606 film 30, 135, 137 food 896-7 public holidays 770 history 891 dog sledding (Chi) 513 Fiesta de la Virgen de religion 765 Candelaria 27, 220 medical services 898 drinking, see individual cities safety 770 Filadelfia (Par) 836 safety 898 drinks, see individual telephone services 770 film shopping 897-8 countries toilets 770 Argentina 189 sights 891-3 driving, see car & tourist information 770 Brazil 431-2 tourist information 898 motorcycle travel tours 773-4 Chile 562-3 tours 894-5 drugging 1038 travel seasons 672 festivals 30, 135, 137 travel to/from 898 drugs, see legal matters travel to/from 772 fishing travel within 899 under individual travel within 772-4 Coyhaique (Chi) 541 cycling 1044-5, see also countries, see also vacations 770 mountain biking individual drugs Futaleufú (Chi) 540 visas 770-1 La Paz (Bol) 204-5 Dunas de Genipabu (Bra) Mar del Plata (Arg) 134 volunteering 771 Lima (Per) 855 396-8 Parque Nacional Lanín weather 672 (Arg) 154 Paramaribo (Sur) 969 wildlife 766 Río Gallegos (Arg) 179 Quito (Ecu) 681 E women travelers 771-2 Villa Gesell (Arg) 136 Riobamba (Ecu) 713 earthquakes 1038 El Bolsón (Arg) 162-3 Floresta Nacional do Ruta de las Cascadas Easter Island (Chi) 556-9, El Calafate (Arg) 175-9, 176 Tapajós (Bra) 416-17 (Ecu) 709 , 557 25 El Chaltén (Arg) 173-5 Florianópolis (Bra) 351-5 Tafí del Valle (Arg) 122 economy El Chato Tortoise Reserve food 1035-6, see also Ecuador 56, 672-774, (Ecu) 758 cooking courses, D 674-5 El Gigante de Atacama individual cities, Dalcahue (Chi) 537 accessible travel 767 (Chi) 497 individual countries dance classes accommodations 672, El Tatio (Chi) 493 football, see soccer Buenos Aires (Arg) 71-2 767 El Valle de la Concepción Formosa (Arg) 104 Cali (Col) 639, 641 activities 767 (Bol) 250 Fortaleza (Bra) 398-401, Córdoba (Arg) 113 arts 765 electricity 1035, see 400-1 Foz do Iguaçu (Bra) 358- Medellín (Col) 625 bathrooms 770 also individual countries 61, 359, 2 Montevideo (Uru) 985 border crossings 703, 724, 726, 729, 753 Elqui Valley (Chi) 479-82 Fray Bentos (Uru) 998 Quito (Ecu) 681 business hours 769 embassies 1035, see also French Guiana 57, 775- Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 309 climate 672 individual countries 92, 777 Salvador (Bra) 377 consulates 767-8 Encarnación (Par) 19, 825- accommodations 775, dangers, see safety costs 673 8, 826, 19, 45 790 dengue fever 1050 culture 764-5 Ensenada (Chi) 528 activities 790 Desierto de la Tatacoa currency 673 entertainment, see border crossings 787, (Col) 650-1 individual cities 788 economy 761-2 dinosaurs 151, 171, 251 environmental hazards business hours 791 electricity 767 1052-3, see also health climate 775 embassies 767-8 under individual consulates 790 environment 766-74 countries Map Pages costs 776 000 exchange rates 673 Esmeraldas (Ecu) 735-6 Photo Pages culture 789-90 000 food 672 Esquel (Arg) 164-5 1075 currency 776 Guaranda (Ecu) 711 Hepatitis A 1050 Brazil 443 electricity 790 Guatapé (Col) 632-3 hiking 26, 42, 48-9 Ecuador 773 embassies 790 Guayaquil (Ecu) 747-52, Arequipa (Per) 877-8 holidays, see individual environment 790 748 Baños (Ecu) 708 countries food 775 guerillas, see FARC, Barichara (Col) 596 Horcón (Chi) 473 health 790 Sendero Luminoso Bogotá (Col) 575 horse riding
highlights 777 Guevara, Ernesto ‘Che’ 117, Capurganá (Col) 619 Barra de Valizas (Uru) INDEX 154, 486 history 789 Chachapoyas (Per) 937-8 1006 holidays 791 Guyana 57, 793-812, 795 Chivay (Per) 884 Colonia Suiza (Uru) 993 internet access 790 accessible travel 809 Choquequirao (Per) Parque Nacional Torres F–I accommodations 793, del Paine (Chi) 554 internet resources 776 911-12 809 Pucón (Chi) 516 itineraries 776 Cuzco (Per) 894 activities 809 Puerto Natales (Chi) language 791 El Chaltén (Arg) 173-4 border crossings 801, 549 maps 791 Futaleufú (Chi) 540 807 San Agustín (Col) 648 money 791 Huaraz (Per) 928-30 business hours 810 San Pedro de Atacama opening hours 791 Ilha de Santa Catarina climate 793 (Chi) 490 politics 789 (Bra) 353 consulates 809-10 Sierra de Rocha (Uru) postal services 791 Inca Trail (Per) 909-11 costs 794 1005 public holidays 791 Ingapirca (Ecu) 721 culture 808-9 Urubamba (Per) 902 safety 791 Isla Navarino (Chi) 555 currency 794 Vilcabamba (Ecu) 725-6 telephone services 791 La Paz (Bol) 205, 205-6 electricity 809 hot springs tourist information 791 Lagunas de Mojanda Baños (Ecu) 707- embassies 809-10 (Ecu) 701 travel seasons 775 Pucón (Chi) 516 environment 809 Lençóis (Bra) 381-2 travel to/from 792 Salto (Uru) 1000 exchange rates 794 Machu Picchu (Per) travel within 792 food 793 908-9 Tarapaya (Bol) 268 vacations 791 gay travelers 810 Mendoza (Arg) 144 Termas Aguas Calientes visas 791-2 (Chi) 523 health 810 Parque Nacional da weather 775 Termas de Papallacta highlights 795 Chapada Diamantina Frutillar (Chi) 524 (Ecu) 696 history 808 (Bra) 381 Futaleufú (Chi) 540-1 Termas de Polques internet access 810 Parque Nacional da Tijuca (Bra) 309 (Bol) 243 internet resources 794 Parque Nacional Termas de Puritama G itineraries 794 Huascarán (Per) 934 (Chi) 493 Gaiman (Arg) 172 LGBT+ travelers 810 Parque Nacional Natural Termas de Socos (Chi) Galápagos Islands (Ecu) money 810 El Cocuy (Col) 592-3 478 42, 753-60, 754, 25 opening hours 810 Parque Nacional Torres Termas Jurasi (Chi) 501 Galibi Nature Reserve politics 807-8 del Paine (Chi) 552-4 Valle Hermoso (Chi) 506 (Sur) 976 postal services 810 Parque Provincial Huacachina (Per) 871 gay travelers 1036, see also public holidays 810-11 Aconcagua (Arg) 148 Huanchaco (Per) 920-1 individual countries safety 811 Parque Provincial Huaraz (Per) 927-33, 928- Georgetown (Guy) 796- telephone services 811 Ernesto Tornquist 9, 930 801, 798-9 (Arg) 140 tourist information 811 Huilliche people 523 accommodations 797 Pucón (Chi) 514 travel seasons 793 Humahuaca (Arg) 133-4 drinking & nightlife 800 Puerto Natales (Chi) 549 travel to/from 811 Humala, Ollanta 953 food 797-800 Quilotoa Loop (Ecu) travel within 811-12 Humberstone (Chi) 495 safety 800 706, 42 vacations 810-11 hypothermia 1052 sights 796 Reserva Nacional Radal visas 811 tourist information 800 Siete Tazas (Chi) 506 weather 793 tours 796-7 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 309 I women travelers 811 travel to/from 800-1 Ruta de los Siete Lagos Ibarra (Ecu) 702-3 Guyanese Space Center travel within 801 (Arg) 155 Ica (Per) 869-71 782-3 Glaciar Perito Moreno Salta (Arg) 126-7 Iguazú Falls (Arg) 17, 179, 17 Sorata (Bol) 231 Argentina 14, 110-11, 14 Golfo de Urabá (Col) H Sucre (Bol) 260 Brazil 358 618-21 Hanga Roa (Chi) 556-8 history 1022-8, see also Îles du Salut (FG) 784-5 Gran Chiquitania (Bol) hang-gliding 53 individual countries Ilha de Marajó (Bra) 414-15 268-75 health 1049-53, see books 1024, 1025, 1027 Ilha de Santa Catarina Guajará-Mirim (Bra) 426 also individual hitchhiking 1047 (Bra) 351-5, 352 Gualaceo (Ecu) 722 countries Argentina 198 Ilha do Mel (Bra) 350-1 Gualeguaychú (Arg) 98 heatstroke 1052 Bolivia 298-9 Ilha Grande (Bra) 329-31 1076 Ilhéus (Bra) 384-5 Islas Ballestas (Per) 868-9 Corrientes (Arg) 101 Lakes District (Chi) 508- Inca empire 1023 Islas del Rosario (Col) 617 Futaleufú (Chi) 540, 52 32, 510-11 Inca sites, see also Islas Uros (Per) 890, 13 Parque Nacional Torres Lambayeque (Per) 923 archaeological sites Itacaré (Bra) 383 del Paine (Chi) 554 language courses 1036 Cajamarca (Per) 934-5 Itagipe Peninsula (Bra) Pilar (Par) 829 Arequipa (Per) 879 Cuzco (Per) 893 376-7 Pucón (Chi) 515, 516 Asunción (Par) 817
INDEX INDEX Ingapirca (Ecu) 721-2 Itaipú Dam (Par) 832-3 Punta Arenas (Chi) 547 Bariloche (Arg) 157 Machu Picchu (Per) 11, Itauguá (Par) 823 kidnapping 1038 Bogotá (Col) 575 906-9, 907, 11 itineraries 31-9, 31, 32, 33, Kirchner, Cristina 186, 1028 Brazil 437-8
I–L Ollantaytambo (Per) 903 34, 36, 37 Kirchner, Néstor 188 Buenos Aires (Arg) 71 Pisac (Per) 901-2
Argentina 61 kitesurfing 404, 609, 611 Colombia 666 Saqsaywamán (Per) Bolivia 200 Kourou (FG) 782-4 Córdoba (Arg) 113 899-901 Brazil 301 Kuélap (Per) 939-40 Cuenca (Ecu) 718 Tambomachay (Per) 901 Chile 445 Ecuador 769 Inca Trail Colombia 571 La Paz (Bol) 207 L Ecuador 721 Ecuador 673 La Guajira Peninsula (Col) Medellín (Col) 625 Peru 909-11, 910-11 French Guiana 776 608-9 Mendoza (Arg) 144 indigenous peoples 1030 Guyana 794 La Paloma (Uru) 1007 Montañita (Ecu) 746 Argentina 188-9 Paraguay 814 La Paz (Bol) 201-18, 206, Montevideo (Uru) 985 Bolivia 289 Peru 849 210-11 Otavalo (Ecu) 699 Brazil 428 Suriname 965 accommodations 207-9 Paraguay 844 Chile 523 Uruguay 982 activities 204-7 Peru 959 Ecuador 763 Iwokrama Rainforest (Guy) courses 207 Quito (Ecu) 681 Peru 954 803-4 drinking & nightlife 213-14 Rosario (Arg) 89 infectious diseases 1050-2 entertainment 214 Sucre (Bol) 260 Ingapirca (Ecu) 721-2 J festivals 207 Valparaíso (Chi) 467 insect bites 1052 Jamaraquá (Bra) 416-17 food 211-13 languages 23, 1054-66, see insurance 1036 Jardín (Col) 630-1 laundry 215 also language courses car 1046 Jericoacoara (Bra) 401-5 medical services 216 Argentina 194 health 1049 Jesuit missions safety 215 Aymara 1063 internet access 1036, Bolivia 274-5 shopping 214-15 French Guiana 791 see also individual Portuguese 1054 countries Brazil 355 sights 201-4 Quechua 1063 internet resources 21, 1034, Paraguay 830 tourist information 217 Suriname 979 1049-50, see also Jesús María (Arg) 116 tours 207 individual countries Joanes (Bra) 415 travel to/from 216, Spanish 1059-63 Inti Raymi 28 Jones, Jim 802 217-18 Las Huacas del Sol y de la Luna (Per) 919-20 Iquique (Chi) 493-7, Jonestown Massacre 802 travel within 218 Las Leñas (Arg) 150-1 494, 52 Jujuy (Arg) 130-1 La Pedrera (Uru) 1007 Las Lomitas (Chi) 484 Iquitos (Per) 947-50, Juliaca (Per) 885 La Punta (Per) 861 Las Tunas (Ecu) 743-5 948, 35 jungle tours 41-2 La Quiaca (Arg) 133 Latacunga (Ecu) 704-5 Isinliví (Ecu) 706 Amazon, the (Bra) 424-5 La Rioja (Arg) 117-19 legal matters 1036, Isla de la Plata (Ecu) 743 Colombia 654 La Serena (Chi) 474-9, 476 see also individual Isla de los Pájaros (Arg) 170 Leticia (Col) 656 La Violencia 660-1 countries Isla del Sol (Bol) 223-6, Parque Nacional Iguazú Lago Agrio (Ecu) 727 Lençóis (Bra) 381-2 (Arg) 110-11 224 Lago Calafquén (Chi) 519 Lethem (Guy) 806 Isla Floreana (Ecu) 760 Rurrenabaque 277, 280 Lago General Carrera (Chi) Leticia (Col) 654-8, 655 Isla Isabela (Ecu) 759-60 Junín de los Andes (Arg) 543-4 LGBT+ travelers 1036, 153-4 Lago Nahuel Huapi (Arg) Isla Navarino (Chi) 555-6 see also individual 162 Isla Negra (Chi) 470 countries Laguna Parón (Per) 933 Isla Quinchao (Chi) 537 Lima (Per) 852-68, 853, K Laguna Quilotoa (Ecu) 707 Isla San Cristóbal (Ecu) Kabalebo (Sur) 975 854, 856, 858-9, Lagunas de Kari Kari 758-9 Kaieteur National Park 862, 864 (Bol) 268 Isla Santa Cruz (Ecu) 756-8 (Guy) 802-3 accommodations Lagunas de Mojanda Isla Taquile (Per) 890 Kaw Nature Reserve (FG) 856-61 (Ecu) 701 782 activities 855-6 Lake Titicaca 12 kayaking drinking & nightlife Bolivia 219-26, 220 864-5 Map Pages 000 Bariloche (Arg) 157 Peru 885-90, 878-9, entertainment 865 Photo Pages 000 Castro (Chi) 535 2, 13 events 856 1077 festivals 856 Otavalo (Ecu) 16, 698, 16 motorcycle travel 1046-7, Olón (Ecu) 745 food 861-4 Paramaribo (Sur) 967 see also car & opening hours, see history 852 Porto Alegre (Bra) 355 motorcycle travel individual countries medical services 866 Puerto Montt (Chi) 529 mountain biking 50-1, see Oriente, the (Ecu) 727-35 also cycling money 866 Santiago (Chi) 451-2, Oruro (Bol) 234-7, 235-6 Arequipa (Per) 878-9 safety 865 460 Osorno (Chi) 522-3
Baños (Ecu) 709 INDEX shopping 865 São Paulo (Bra) 333 Otavalo (Ecu) 698-701, Cuzco (Per) 894 sights 852-5 Valdivia (Chi) 519 699 Huaraz (Per) 930 tourist information 866 Villa Gesell (Arg) 136 Ouro Prêto (Bra) 344-6, La Paz (Bol) 204-5 tours 856 Maule Valley (Chi) 504-5 345 L–P Parque Nacional travel to/from 866-7 Mbaracayú Biosphere Reserve (Par) 833 Cotopaxi (Ecu) 704 travel within 867 Pucón (Chi) 515-16, 516 P Medellín (Col) 623-30, literature 21, see also books Pachacamac (Per) 855 624, 626 Puerto Varas (Chi) 524 Argentina 189 Salento (Col) 637 Palomino (Col) 605-6 Brazil 432 medical services 1049-50, see also individual San Gil (Col) 594 Pantanal Paraguayo (Par) 834 Chile 562 countries Sorata (Bol) 231 Colombia 663 Pantanal, the (Bra) 364-7, Mendoza (Arg) 140-7, 142 mountaineering, see Paraguay 842 366 Mennonite Colonies (Par) climbing Uruguay 1011 835-7 music 21, 1031-2 Papallacta (Ecu) 696 Loja (Ecu) 723-4 Mercedes (Uru) 997-8 Argentina 190 Papillon 784 Loma Plata (Par) 836-7 Mina San José (Chi) 482 Bolivia 289 Paracas (Per) 868-9 Los Ángeles (Chi) 508 Minca (Col) 602-3 Brazil 432 paragliding 53 Los Antiguos (Arg) 173 Mindo (Ecu) 696-8 Colombia 663 Bucaramanga (Col) 598 Los Lípez (Bol) 243 Misahuallí (Ecu) 731-3 Ecuador 765 La Paz (Bol) 206-7 Los Llanos (Col) 652-4 Mitad del Mundo (Ecu) Peru 954-5 Lima (Per) 855 Los Penitentes (Arg) 147-8 695-6 Medellín (Col) 625 mobile phones 20, 1040, San Gil (Col) 594 see also telephone N Paraguay 57, 813-47, 815, Natal (Bra) 396-8 M services under 824-5 Macas (Ecu) 734-5 individual countries national parks & reserves, accessible travel 843 Maceió (Bra) 387-8 Mompiche (Ecu) 737-8 see also individual parks & reserves accommodations 813, Machala (Ecu) 752-3 Mompós (Col) 618 843 Argentina 192 Machu Picchu (Per) 11, money 20, 21, 1036-7, activities 843 906-9, 907, 10-11 Bolivia 291 see also individual arts 842 Macri, Mauricio 186 countries Brazil 434 bathrooms 845-6 Maitencillo (Chi) 473 Monguí (Col) 593 Chile 564-5 border crossings 822, Malargüe (Arg) 150 Montañita (Ecu) 745-7 Ecuador 766 828, 830, 832, 836 malaria 1050 Montecristi (Ecu) 741 Paraguay 843 business hours 845 Mamiña (Chi) 495 Montevideo (Uru) 984-92, Peru 956 climate 813 Mana (FG) 788-9 986-7 Nazca (Per) 872-4, 873 consulates 843-4 accommodations 985 Manaus (Bra) 418-22, 419 Nazca Lines (Per) 872-3 costs 814 activities 985 Máncora (Per) 924-7 Necocli (Col) 618-19 culture 841-2 courses 985 Manizales (Col) 633-5 Neruda, Pablo 470, 562 currency 814 drinking & nightlife 990 Manta (Ecu) 739-41, 740 Neuquén (Arg) 151-3 electricity 843 events 985 maps 1036, see also Nevados de Chillán (Chi) embassies 843-4 festivals 985 506 individual countries environment 842-3 food 985-9 Niemeyer, Oscar 341, Mar del Plata (Arg) 134-6 exchange rates 814 medical services 991 348-9 marijuana (Uru) 990 food 813, 844 money 991 Nieuw Nickerie (Sur) 976 markets gay travelers 844 Asunción (Par) 821 shopping 991 Northwestern National Parks (Par) 838 health 844 Belém (Bra) 410 sights 984-5 Novo Airão (Bra) 422-4 highlights 815 Buenos Aires (Arg) 69 tourist information 991 Nuevo Rocafuerte (Ecu) history 839-41 Cacao (FG) 781-2 travel to/from 991-2 729 internet access 844 travel within 992 Cayenne (FG) 778 internet resources 814 Monumento Natural El Georgetown (Guy) 796 itineraries 814 Morado (Chi) 464 Iquitos (Per) 947 O LGBT+ travelers 844 Morales, Evo 284, 287-8 Olinda (Bra) 392-5, 393 La Paz (Bol) 201 literature 841 Morro de São Paulo (Bra) Ollantaytambo (Per) Montevideo (Uru) 984, maps 844 991 382-3 903-4 money 844-5 1078 Paraguay continued Parque Nacional da Parque Nacional Natural passports 1042, see also opening hours 845 Chapada Diamantina Los Nevados (Col) visas politics 838-9, 840-1 (Bra) 381 635-6 Pasto (Col) 652 public holidays 845 Parque Nacional da Parque Nacional Natural Patagonia Chapada dos Guimarães Sierra de La Macarena Argentina 166-80, 167 responsible travel 845 (Bra) 369-70 (Col) 653 Chile 538-55 safety 845 Parque Nacional da Parque Nacional Natural INDEX INDEX Paysandú (Uru) 998-9 sports 842 Chapada dos Veadeiros Tayrona (Col) 603-5, telephone services 845 (Bra) 365 604-5 Peperpot Nature Park (Sur) 973 toilets 845-6 Parque Nacional da Tijuca Parque Nacional Nevado P tourist information 846 (Bra) 309 Tres Cruces (Chi) 483 Pereira (Col) 636 travel seasons 813 Parque Nacional de Parque Nacional Noel Perón, Eva 187 travel to/from 846 Aparados da Serra Kempff Mercado (Bol) Perón, Juan 187 (Bra) 353 travel within 847 281 Peru 57, 848-963, 850-1 Parque Nacional visas 846 Parque Nacional Pan de accessible travel 957 Defensores del Chaco Azúcar (Chi) 484 accommodations 848, volunteering 846 (Par) 838 Parque Nacional Patagonia 957 weather 813 Parque Nacional del (Chi) 543 activities 957-8 women travelers 846 Chicamocha (Col) 597 Parque Nacional arts 954-5 Paramaribo (Sur) 967-73, Parque Nacional dos Podocarpus (Ecu) 725 bathrooms 961 968-9 Lençóis Maranhenses Parque Nacional Pumalín border crossings 875, accommodations 970-1 (Bra) 408 (Chi) 538-40 889, 925, 946, 950 activities 968-70 Parque Nacional El Palmar Parque Nacional Puyehue business hours 960 drinking & nightlife 972 (Arg) 93 (Chi) 523 climate 848 food 971-2 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Queulat Huascarán (Per) 933-4 consulates 958 safety 972 (Chi) 541 Parque Nacional costs 849 shopping 972 Parque Nacional Rapa Nui Huerquehue (Chi) culture 953-4 sights 967-8 (Chi) 558-9 518-19 currency 849 tourist information 972 Parque Nacional Río Parque Nacional Iguazú Pilcomayo (Arg) 93 electricity 958 tours 968-70 (Arg) 110-11 Parque Nacional San embassies 958 travel to/from 972 Parque Nacional Laguna Rafael (Par) 830-1 environment 955-7 travel within 972-3 del Laja (Chi) 507 Parque Nacional Santa exchange rates 849 Paraná (Arg) 97-9 Parque Nacional Lanín Teresa (Uru) 1008-9 (Arg) 154 food 848, 958-9 Paranaguá (Bra) 350 Parque Nacional Sierra de gay travelers 959 parasites 1052-3 Parque Nacional Lauca las Quijadas (Arg) 144 (Chi) 501-2 highlights 850-1 Paraty (Bra) 331-2 Parque Nacional Teniente Parque Nacional Lihué history 951-3 Parinacota (Chi) 501 Enciso (Par) 838 Calel (Arg) 144 internet access 959 Parque Estadual da Serra Parque Nacional Tierra del Parque Nacional Los dos Pireneus (Bra) 365 Fuego (Arg) 185-6 internet resources 849 Alerces (Arg) 165-6 Parque Esteros del Iberá Parque Nacional Torotoro itineraries 849 Parque Nacional Los (Arg) 99-100 (Bol) 256-7 language courses 959 Arrayanes (Arg) 156 Parque Nacional & Área de Parque Nacional Torres del legal matters 959 Parque Nacional Los Uso Múltiple Amboró Paine (Chi) 18, 552-5, LGBT+ travelers 959 Glaciares (Arg) 179 (Bol) 274 553, 18 maps 959 Parque Nacional Machalilla Parque Nacional Bernardo Parque Nacional Tunari (Ecu) 743 money 959-60 O’Higgins (Chi) 556 (Bol) 256 Parque Nacional Madidi national parks 956 Parque Nacional Bosques Parque Nacional Vicente (Bol) 281 opening hours 960 de Fray Jorge (Chi) 478 Pérez Rosales (Chi) 528 Parque Nacional Manu politics 951 Parque Nacional Cajas Parque Nacional Villarrica (Per) 944-5 (Ecu) 722 (Chi) 519 population 954 Parque Nacional Marinho Parque Nacional Chaco Parque Nacional Yasuní postal services 960 de Fernando de (Arg) 93 (Ecu) 730 public holidays 960 Noronha (Bra) 392 Parque Nacional Chiloé Parque por la Paz (Chi) 451 religion 954 Parque Nacional Médanos (Chi) 537 responsible travel 960 del Chaco (Par) 838 Parque Provincial Parque Nacional Conguillío Aconcagua (Arg) 148 safety 960-1 Parque Nacional Nahuel (Chi) 512 Huapi (Arg) 162 Parque Provincial Ernesto sports 954 Parque Nacional Tornquist (Arg) 140 Parque Nacional telephone services 961 Cotopaxi (Ecu) 704 Nahuelbuta (Chi) 507 Parque Provincial toilets 961 Ischigualasto (Arg) Parque Nacional Natural tourist information 961 149-50 Amacayacu (Col) 658 travel seasons 848 Map Pages 000 Parque Tagua-Tagua (Chi) Parque Nacional Natural El travel to/from 962 Photo Pages 000 526 Cocuy (Col) 592-3 travel within 962-3 1079 vacations 960 Puerto Iguazú (Arg) 107-10, Cajón del Maipo (Chi) Paraguay 845 visas 961 108 463 Peru 960 volunteering 961 Puerto López (Ecu) 741-3 Cuzco (Per) 894 Rio Branco (Bra) 426 weather 848 Puerto Madryn (Arg) 166- Futaleufú (Chi) 540, 52 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 12, women travelers 962 70, 168 Mendoza (Arg) 144 304-27, 304, 306-7, work 962 Puerto Maldonado (Per) Pucón (Chi) 515, 516 310, 316-17, 320, photography 1037 942-4, 943 Puerto Varas (Chi) 524 12, 50 INDEX Pica (Chi) 495 Puerto Montt (Chi) 529-32, Salta (Arg) 126 accommodations 311-14 Pichilemu (Chi) 502-4 530 San Agustín (Col) 648 activities 308
Pilar (Par) 829-30 Puerto Nariño (Col) 658-9 San Gil (Col) 594 drinking & nightlife 321-3 P–S Pinamar (Arg) 137-8 Puerto Natales (Chi) 549- Tena (Ecu) 730 entertainment 323-4 550 ,52 Pinochet, Augusto 560-1, Raleighvallen (Sur) 975-6 events 311 Puerto Varas (Chi) 524-8, 1028 Rapa Nui (Chi) 556-9, 557 festivals 311 525 food 314-21 Piriápolis (Uru) 1002 Recife (Bra) 388-92, 389 Puerto Williams (Chi) 555 Piribebuy (Par) 823 Recinto del Pensamiento history 304-5 Pisac (Per) 901-2 Puno (Per) 885-9, 886 (Col) 635 medical services 325 Pisco Elqui (Chi) 481-2 Punta Arenas (Chi) 547-9, religion 1030-1, see also safety 324-5 Piura (Per) 923-4 546 individual countries shopping 324 planning Punta del Diablo (Uru) Rémire-Montjoly (FG) 783 sights 305-8 1007-8 budgeting 21, 42-6 Reñaca (Chi) 473 tourist information 325 Punta del Este (Uru) 1003- calendar of events 27-30 Reserva Biológica Jatun tours 309-11 6, 1004 countries 55-8 Sacha (Ecu) 733 travel to/from 325-6 Punta Gallinas (Col) 609 first-time visitors 22-3 Reserva de Producción travel within 326-7 Putre (Chi) 501 de Fauna Chimborazo internet resources 21 Río Gallegos (Arg) 179-80 Puyo (Ecu) 733-4 (Ecu) 714-15 itineraries 31-9 Río Liucura Valley (Chi) 518 Puyuhuapi (Chi) 541 Reserva Ecológica medical checklist 1049 Costanera Sur (Arg) 65 Rio Vermelho (Bra) 379 packing 46 Reserva Ecológica Riobamba (Ecu) 712-14 South America basics Q Cotacachi-Cayapas Riohacha (Col) 608 20-1 Quebrada de Cafayate (Ecu) 702 road rules 1047 travel seasons 20, 27-30 (Arg) 125 Reserva Ecológica Vargem robbery 1039, see also Playa Blanca (Col) 617 Quebrada de Humahuaca Grande (Bra) 365 safety (Arg) 132-4 Poconchile (Chi) 501 Reserva Faunística rock climbing, see climbing Quechua language 1063 Poconé (Bra) 370 Península Valdés (Arg) Rosario (Arg) 87-94, 90 Quellón (Chi) 538 170-1 police 1038 Rousseff, Dilma 430, 1028 Quilmes (Arg) 126 Reserva Nacional Altos de Pombori (Par) 817 ruins 24, see also Quilotoa Loop (Ecu) 706-7 Lircay (Chi) 506 archaeological sites, Popayán (Col) 644-7, 646 Quito (Ecu) 676-95, 681-2, Reserva Nacional Inca sites Porto Alegre (Bra) 355-8, 678-9, 681, 684-5, Coyhaique (Chi) 541 Rupununi (Guy) 803, 356 688, 692 Reserva Nacional de 804-6 Porto Seguro (Bra) 385-6 accommodations 682-95 Paracas (Per) 869 Rurrenabaque (Bol) 229, Porto Velho (Bra) 425-6 activities 681 Reserva Nacional 276-81, 278 Pacaya-Samiria (Per) Portuguese language 1054 courses 681 Ruta Spondylus (Ecu) 950-1 Porvenir (Chi) 556 drinking & nightlife 690-1 743-7 Posadas (Arg) 105-6 Reserva Nacional Pampa events 682 del Tamarugal (Chi) postal services 1037-8, see festivals 682 497 also individual countries S food 686-90 Reserva Nacional Radal Sábato, Ernesto 189 Potosí (Bol) 264-8, 265 medical services 692-3 Siete Tazas (Chi) 506 Sacred Valley (Per) 901-4 Praia da Pipa (Bra) 395-6 safety 692 Reserva Natural Cañon de safety 23, 1038-9, see also Providencia (Col) 622-3 sights 676-81 Río Claro (Col) 631 individual cities, public holidays, see tourist information 693 Reserva Producción Argentina 196 individual countries Faunística Cuyabeno tours 681-2 Bolivia 295 public transport 1047, (Ecu) 727-8 travel to/from 693-4 Brazil 439 see also individual reserves, see national countries travel within 693, 695 parks & reserves, Chile 567 Pucallpa (Per) 945-6 individual reserves Colombia 668 Ecuador 770 Pucón (Chi) 514-18, 515 R Resistencia (Arg) 102-4 Puente del Inca (Arg) 148 rabies 1050-1 responsible travel, see also French Guiana 791 Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 757-8 rafting 53 volunteering Guyana 811 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno Arequipa (Per) 878 Brazil 439 Paraguay 845 (Ecu) 758-9 Bariloche (Arg) 157 Colombia 667-8 Peru 960-1 1080 Salango (Ecu) 743-5 courses 452 Sillustani (Per) 889 Punta del Este (Uru) Salar de Uyuni (Bol) 15, drinking & nightlife 459 Silvia (Col) 651 1003 242-3, 15 entertainment 459-60 Sipán (Per) 923 Villa Gesell (Arg) 136 Salento (Col) 637-8 events 452-3 skiing 42, 54 Suriname 58, 964-80, 966 Salinas (Ecu) 711-12 festivals 452-3 Las Leñas (Arg) 150-1 accessible travel 978 salt flats food 457-9 Los Penitentes (Arg) accommodations 964,
INDEX INDEX Reserva Faunística history 446 147-8 978 Península Valdés itineraries 447 Mendoza (Arg) 143 activities 978 (Arg) 170 medical services 461 Nevados de Chillán border crossings 971,
S–T Salar de Uyuni (Bol) 15, 976 safety 460-1 (Chi) 506 242-3, 15 business hours 979 shopping 460 Parque Nacional Nahuel Salta (Arg) 126-30, 128-9 Huapi (Arg) 162 climate 964 sights 446-52 Salto (Uru) 999-1000 Parque Nacional consulates 978 tourist information 461 Salvador (Bra) 375-81, Puyehue (Chi) 523 costs 965 376 tours 452 Salvaterra (Bra) 415 Santiago region (Chi) culture 977-8 travel to/from 461-2 464 Sama Biological Reserve currency 965 travel within 462-3 Valle Nevado (Chi) (Bol) 250 electricity 978 Santiago del Estero (Arg) 464, 52 Samaipata (Bol) 273-4 embassies 978 119 Volcán Osorno (Chi) 528 samba 1032 environment 978 Santuario de Flora y Fauna slave trade 1025-6 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) de Iguaque (Col) 591-2 exchange rates 965 323, 324 snorkeling, see diving Santuario de Iguaque (Col) food 964, 978 snowboarding 54, see also Same (Ecu) 736-7 591-2 skiing gay travelers 979 San Agustín (Col) 647-9, Santuário Ecológico de soccer health 979 648 Pipa (Bra) 395 highlights 966 San Agustín de Valle Fértil Argentina 191 São Luís (Bra) 405-8, 406 history 977 (Arg) 149 Brazil 433 São Miguel do Gostoso holidays 979 San Andrés (Col) 621-2 Chile 563 (Bra) 404 internet access 979 San Antonio de Areco Colombia 664 São Paulo (Bra) 332-41, (Arg) 87 internet resources 965 334-5, 337 Paraguay 842 San Bernardino (Par) itineraries 965 accommodations 336 Peru 954 823-5 language 979 activities 333-5 Uruguay 1011 San Gil (Col) 593-6 LGBT+ travelers 979 drinking & nightlife Sorata (Bol) 231-2 San Ignacio (Arg) 106-7 money 979 338-9 Soure (Bra) 415-16 San Ignacio de Moxos opening hours 979 entertainment 339-40 Southern Altiplano 232-50 (Bol) 283 politics 976-7 events 335 Spanish language 1059-63 San Juan (Arg) 148-9 public holidays 979 festivals 335 sports, see individual San Lorenzo (Bol) 249-50 telephone services 980 food 336-8 countries San Luis (Arg) 140 tourist information 980 medical services 340 St Laurent du Maroni (FG) San Martín de los Andes 785-8, travel seasons 964 safety 340 786 (Arg) 154-6 stargazing travel to/from 980 sights 333-5 San Pedro de Atacama Chile 474, 488, 491 travel within 980 tourist information 340-1 (Chi) 488-92, 489 Ecuador 681 vacations 979 travel to/from 340, 341 Santa Cruz (Bol) 268-75 Súa (Ecu) 736 visas 980 travel within 341 Santa Cruz (Chi) 502 weather 964 Sapzurro (Col) 619 Sucre (Bol) 257-63, 258 Santa Fe (Arg) 94-7, 95 surfing 42, 51, 53 women travelers 980 Santa Fe de Antioquia Saqsaywamán (Per) 899-901 Cabo Polonio (Uru) (Col) 632 1006 Saraguro (Ecu) 722-3 T Santa María de la Fe Canoa (Ecu) 738 (Par) 831 scams 1038, see also Tacna (Per) 874-5 Huanchaco (Per) 920 Santa Marta (Col) 599- safety Tacuarembó (Uru) 1000-2 Iquique (Chi) 494 602, 600 scuba diving, see diving Tafí del Valle (Arg) 121-2 Itacaré (Bra) 384 Santarém (Bra) 415-16 Semana Santa 28 Taganga (Col) 606 La Paloma (Uru) 1007 Santiago (Chi) 446-63, Sendero Luminoso 953 Talca (Chi) 504-5 448-9, 454-5 Serere Eco Reserve (Bol) La Pedrera (Uru) 1007 Tambomachay (Per) 901 accommodations 453-7 282 Lima (Per) 856 tango 190 activities 452 Sierra de la Ventana (Arg) Máncora (Per) 924-5 classes 71-2, 72, 113 139 Montañita (Ecu) 745 festivals & events 29 Siete Tazas (Chi) 506 Pichilemu (Chi) 502-3 performances 81-2 Sigsig (Ecu) 722 Puerto Baquerizo Map Pages 000 Tango BA Festival y Siles Zuazo, Hernán 287 Moreno (Ecu) 759 Photo Pages 000 Mundial 29 1081 tap water 1053 Trujillo (Per) 915-18, 916 weather 981 Volcán Pululahua Tarabuco (Bol) 263 Tucumán (Arg) 119-21 women travelers 1014 (Ecu) 696 Tarapaya (Bol) 268 Túcume (Per) 923 Ushuaia (Arg) 181-5, Volcán Villarrica (Chi) Tarapoto (Per) 940-2 Tunja (Col) 590 182-3 514 Tarija (Bol) 246-9 Tupiza (Bol) 243-6 Uspallata (Arg) 147 volunteering 1040-1, see also individual Tejo (Col) 595 typhoid 1051 Uyuni (Bol) 237-42, 238
countries INDEX telephone services 20, 1039-40, see also individual countries U V Upper Suriname River vacations, see individual W
Temuco (Chi) 508-12 T–W (Sur) 973-5 countries walking, see hiking Tena (Ecu) 730-1 Uribe, Álvaro 662 vaccinations 1049 water 1053 Termales San Vicente waterfalls Urubamba (Per) 902-3 Valdivia (Chi) 519-22, 520 (Col) 637 Iguazú Falls (Arg) 14, Uruguay 58, 981-1014, Valle de Cocora (Col) Termas de Papallacta 110-11, 14 (Ecu) 696 983 638-9 Iguazú Falls (Bra) 358 theft 1039, see also safety accessible travel 1011-12 Valle de la Luna (Bol) 205 Kaieteur Falls (Guy) 802 Tierra del Fuego (Arg) accommodations 981, Valle de Lunarejo (Uru) 1012 1001 Salto del Monday (Par) 180-6, 180-1 833 Tierra del Fuego (Chi) activities 1012 Valle de Maipo (Chi) 463 arts 1011 Valle Las Trancas (Chi) Saltos del Petrohué 555-6 (Chi) 528 border crossings 992, 506 Tierradentro (Col) 649-50 weather 20, 27-30, see also 1009 Valle Nevado (Chi) 464, 52 Tigre (Arg) 87 individual countries business hours 1013 Valles Calchaquíes (Arg) Tilcara (Arg) 132-3 websites, see internet 125-6 time 20, 1040 climate 981 resources Valparaíso (Chi) 465-71, tipping 23 consulates 1012 whitewater rafting, 466, 44 Tiradentes (Bra) 346-7 costs 982 see rafting Venezuela 58, 1015-20, Tiwanaku (Bol) 218-19 culture 1010-11 wildlife-watching 26, 1016 toilets 1040, see also currency 982 49-50 culture 1019 individual countries electricity 1012 Cabo Polonio (Uru) 1006 economy 1017 Tomatitas (Bol) 250 embassies 1012 Coca (Ecu) 728 history 1017-20 Tonchigüe (Ecu) 736-7 environment 1011 Floresta Nacional do politics 1016-17 Torres del Paine (Chi) exchange rates 982 Tapajós (Bra) 416 travel warning 1015 552-5, 553 food 981, 1012 Fortín Toledo (Par) 837-8 tourist information, see gay travelers 1014 Vicuña (Chi) 479-81 Galápagos Islands individual cities, highlights 983 Vilcabamba (Ecu) 725-7 (Ecu) 757 individual countries history 1009-10 Villa Carlos Paz (Arg) 116 Isla Isabela (Ecu) 760 tours 1039, see also jungle holidays 1013 Villa de Leyva (Col) 587-91, Islas Ballestas (Per) 868 tours, individual cities, insurance 1012 588 Laguna Capitán (Par) individual countries 837 internet access 1012 Villa General Belgrano train travel 1047-8 (Arg) 116 Mennonite Colonies internet resources 982 to/from Peru 962 Villa Gesell (Arg) 136-7 (Par) 837-8 itineraries 982 within Argentina 198 Villa la Angostura (Arg) Novo Airão (Bra) 422 legal matters 1013 within Bolivia 299 156-7 Pantanal, the 365-7 LGBT+ travelers 1013 within Brazil 443 Villa O’Higgins (Chi) Parque Nacional marijuana 990 within Chile 569 545-6 Machalilla (Ecu) 743 money 1013 within Ecuador 774 Villarrica (Chi) 512-14 Parque Nacional Manu opening hours 1013 within Peru 963 Villazón (Bol) 244 (Per) 944-5 politics 1009 Trancoso (Bra) 387 Viña del Mar (Chi) 471-3 Parque Nacional Nevado population 1010 Tres Cruces (Chi) 483 Transchaco Rally (Par) 837 visas 20, 1040, see also public holidays 1013 passports, individual Peru 956 transportation 21, 1042-8 sports 1011 countries Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 757 travel seasons 20, 27-30, volcanoes 46, see also individual telephone services Puerto Madryn (Arg) 166 countries 1013-14 Volcán Chimborazo (Ecu) Reserva de Producción 714-15 trekking, see hiking tourist information 1014 de Fauna Chimborazo Volcán Cotopaxi (Ecu) (Ecu) 714-15 Trelew (Arg) 171 travel seasons 981 704 Reserva Faunística Trésor Nature Reserve travel to/from 1014 Volcán de Lodo El Península Valdés (FG) 782 travel within 1014 Totumo (Col) 617 (Arg) 170 Trevelin (Arg) 165 vacations 1013 Volcán Lanín (Arg) 154 Reserva Nacional Trinidad (Bol) 281-4 visas 1014 Volcán Osorno (Chi) Pacaya-Samiria (Per) volunteering 1014 Trinidad (Par) 830 528 950-1 1082 windsurfing (Bra) 404 work 1041, see also Y Z wine regions individual countries Yanahuana (Per) 880 Zamora (Ecu) 724-5 Colchagua Valley (Chi) World’s Most Dangerous Yapeyú (Arg) 100 Zapallar (Chi) 473 Road (Bol) 227 502 Yarinacocha (Per) 946 Zika virus 1051 Maule Valley (Chi) 505 yellow fever 1051 Zipaquirá (Col) 583 Mendoza (Arg) 146 X Yolosa 226-9 ziplining 884 INDEX INDEX women travelers 1041, Xapuri (Bra) 426-7 Yungas, the (Bol) 226 see also individual countries W–Z W–Z
Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 1083 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1084
Map Legend
Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway/Subte station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kevin Raub Brazil, Chile, Colombia Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music jour- nalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written over 95 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Carib- bean and Portugal. Kevin also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).
Adam Skolnick Argentina Adam’s travel obsession bloomed while working as an environmental activist in the mid-1990s. These days he’s an award-winning journalist and travel writer who writes about travel, culture, human rights, sports and the environment for a variety of publications, including the New York Times, Playboy, Outside, BBC. com, Wired, ESPN.com and Men’s Health, and he’s authored or co-authored over 35 Lonely Planet guidebooks. An avid open water swimmer and diver, he’s also the author of the critically acclaimed narrative non-fiction book,ONE BREATH: Freediving, Death and the Quest to Shatter Human Limits and INDOLIRIUM. He lives in Malibu, California. IG: @adamskolnick
Paul Smith Paraguay From an early age, and with a vague and naive ambition to be the next David Attenborough, Paul dreamed of exploring the remotest areas of South America in search of wildlife. After spending two months in Bolivia as a student, that dream started to come true, but with David Attenborough still going strong he changed his career plans, became a travel writer and moved to Paraguay per- manently in 2003.
Andy Symington Brazil Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing com- panies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspa- pers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragi- cally poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.
Phillip Tang Peru Phillip grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho and fish’n’chips be- fore moving to Mexico City. A degree in Chinese and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and then writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. See his writing at hello phillip.com; photos @mrtangtangtang; and tweets @philliptang
Luke Waterson Ecuador, Peru Raised in the remote Somerset countryside in Southwest England, Luke quickly became addicted to exploring out-of-the-way places. Completing a Creative Writing degree at the University of East Anglia, he shouldered his back- pack and vowed to see as much of the world as possible. Fast-forward a few years and he has travelled the Americas from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego and developed an obsession for Soviet Architecture and pre-Columbian ruins in equal measure.
Wendy Yanagihara Ecuador Wendy serendipitously landed her dream job of writing for Lonely Planet in 2003, and has since spent the intervening years contributing to titles including Southeast Asia on a Shoestring, Vietnam, Japan, Mexico, Costa Rica, Indonesia, and Grand Canyon National Park. In the name of research, she has hiked remote valleys of West Papua, explored the tiny nooks and alleys of Tokyo sprawl, trekked on a Patagonian glacier, and rafted Colorado River whitewater. Wendy has also written for BBC Travel, the Guardian, Lonely Planet Magazine, lonelyplanet.com, and intermittently freelances as a graphic designer, illustrator and visual artist. Mark Johanson Bolivia, Chile Mark grew up in Virginia and has called five different countries home over the last decade. His travel-writing career began as something of a quar- ter-life crisis, and he’s happily spent the past eight years circling the globe report- ing for Australian travel magazines (such as Get Lost), British newspapers (such as the Guardian), American lifestyles (such as Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (such as CNN and BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gazing at the Andes from his home in Santiago.
Anna Kaminski Argentina, Colombia Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cam- bridge, England. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and litera- ture of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home.
Brian Kluepfel Ecuador, Venezuela Brian had lived in three states and seven different residences by the time he was nine, and he’s just kept moving, making stops in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ‘burbs further down the line. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer tournament in Paraguay to an accordion festival in Quebec. He has contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Costa Rica, Belize, Guatemala, Bolivia and Ecuador. Brian is an avid birder and musician and dabbles in both on the road; his singing has been tolerated at open mics from Sámara, Costa Rica, to Beijing, China.
Tom Masters Colombia, French Guiana, Guyana, Suriname Dreaming since he could walk of going to the most obscure places on earth, Tom has always had a taste for the unknown. This has led to a writing career that has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Siberia. Despite a childhood spent in the English countryside, as an adult Tom has always called London, Paris and Berlin home. He currently lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net.
Carolyn McCarthy Argentina, Chile, Peru Carolyn specializes in travel, culture and adventure in the Americas. She has written for National Geographic, Outside, BBC Magazine, Sierra Magazine, the Boston Globe and other publications. A former Fulbright fellow and Banff Mountain Grant recipient, she has documented life in the most remote corners of Latin America. Carolyn has contributed to 40 guidebooks and anthologies for Lonely Planet, including Colorado, USA, Argentina, Chile, Trek- king in the Patagonian Andes, Panama, Peru and USA’s National Parks. For more information, visit www.carolynmccarthy.org or follow her Instagram travels @mccarthyoffmap.
MaSovaida Morgan Ecuador MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia storyteller whose wander- lust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven continents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.
Anja Mutić Argentina Born and raised in Zagreb, Croatia, Anja has traveled the globe as a professional wanderer for decades. Her travel-writing career has taken her to more than 60 countries, taught her several languages and won her several awards. She has lived, worked and traveled on every continent (except Antarcti- ca), including a stint of several months living in Buenos Aires. Follow her on Insta- gram at Everthenomad. Robert Balkovich Brazil Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking experiences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on.
Jade Bremner Ecuador Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try – the weirder the better – and it’s no coincidence many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has contributed to the Times, CNN and the Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure.
Cathy Brown Argentina Cathy is a travel writer (Lonely Planet, OARS, Luxury Latin America) and editor (Matador Network). She live with her three kids in the Andes of Argen- tine Patagonia, where she hikes, gardens, drinks Malbec, works with medicinal herbs and indigenous cultures, and is building a straw-bale house. She’s passion- ate about any adventure travel, including surfing, rafting, skiing, climbing or trek- king, and works closely with the Adventure Travel Trade Association.
Gregor Clark Brazil, Uruguay Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of coun- tries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.
Alex Egerton Argentina, Brazil, Peru A news journalist by trade, Alex has worked for maga- zines, newspapers and media outlets on five continents. Having had his fill of musty newsrooms, Alex decided to leap into travel writing in order to escape the mundane. He spends most of his time on the road checking under mattresses, sampling suspicious street food and chatting with locals. A keen adventurer, Alex has hiked through remote jungles in Colombia, explored isolated tributaries of the mighty Mekong and taken part in the first kayak descent of a number of remote waterways in Nicaragua. When not on the road, you’ll find him at home in the colonial splendor of Popayán in southern Colombia.
Michael Grosberg Argentina, Bolivia Michael has worked on over 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Oth- er international work included development work on Rota in the western Pacific; and teaching in Quito, Ecuador. He has also worked in South Africa, where he investigated and wrote about political violence, and trained newly elected govern- ment representatives. He received a Masters in Comparative Literature, and has taught literature and writing as an adjunct professor.
Anthony Ham Brazil, Colombia Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specializes in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Regis St Louis Brazil, Chile Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand ur- ban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Regis also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survive chapters.
Isabel Albiston Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as writer for a mag- azine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four-month overland trip across Asia and five years living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to 12 guidebooks. She’s currently based in Ireland.
Celeste Brash French Guiana, Guyana, Suriname Like many California natives, Celeste now lives in Portland, Oregon. However, she arrived after 15 years in French Polynesia, a year and a half in Southeast Asia and a stint teaching English as a second lan- guage (in an American accent) in Brighton, England – among other things. She’s been writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet since 2005 and her travel articles have appeared in publications from BBC Travel to National Geographic. She’s currently writing a book about her five years on a remote pearl farm in the Tuamotu Atolls and is represented by the Donald Maass Agency, New York.
Brendan Sainsbury Colombia, Peru Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a men- tion in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. copy of Lonely Planet’s Africa on a Shoestring. In the last 11 years, he has written over 40 books for Lonely Planet.
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