Tom Breihan Eve Fairbanks Nasir Jones Sho Madjozi Masego Free Issue Publishers Hussain Moloobhoy Rajat Malhotra Joshua Cox Carlos Pedroza
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EVENT EDITION 2018 SOLEDXB.COM TOM BREIHAN EVE FAIRBANKS NASIR JONES SHO MADJOZI MASEGO FREE ISSUE PUBLISHERS HUSSAIN MOLOOBHOY RAJAT MALHOTRA JOSHUA COX CARLOS PEDROZA COPY EDITOR IAIN AKERMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITORS NICK BAKER LUCY PARKER CREATIVE DIRECTION SOLE DESIGN MOLOOBHOY & BROWN CONTRIBUTORS PHOTOGRAPHERS TOM BREIHAN MAXWELL AURELIEN JAMES Tom Breihan is the Senior Editor at Stereogum. ANDILE BUKA He’s written about music, action movies, and pro FAREL BISOTTO wrestling for The Ringer, the AV Club, Pitchfork, EVA LOSADA The Village Voice, Grantland, Deadspin, and a ton THEO GOSEELIN of other places. He lives in Charlottesville, Virginia ABDULLA ELMAZ with his wife and kids. TOM + DANELLE ELLIS COGNITO EVE FAIRBANKS ASPHALT CHRONICLES Eve, a writer living in Johannesburg, is at work JADE AYLA on a book about South Africa. Her stories have appeared in The New York Times Magazine, SPECIAL THANKS The Guardian and The New Republic. MAC COSMETICS SARTISTS NASIR JONES ALIX CIVIT Nasir bin Olu Dara Jones, better known by his KELLI MADDOCK stage name Nas, is an American rapper and ROAR entrepreneur. The son of Olu Dara, Nas has THE FACTORY STUDIO PRODUCTIONS released eight consecutive platinum and multi- platinum albums and has sold over 30 million PUBLISHED BY records worldwide. BOBBITO GARCIA CHRIS AYLEN CONTACT VIKKI TOBAK [email protected] RAOUL REINOSO PIETER RETIEF ATIYYAH KHAN BIG HASS SOLEDXB.COM UDAY KAPUR STEF JASON November 2018 CHARL JENSEL MAGDI FERNANDES © 2018 Sole Main Partners Associate Partners 1 05 CONTENTS EDITOR’S NOTE 5 ‘DAMN YOUR SNEAKERS ARE COOL’ 8 CONTACT HIGH 24 EARLY DAWNING, SUNDAY MORNING 30 HARAAMIS 38 COUPLES COUNSELLING 46 HIP-HOP’S NEXT 45 56 BOOM BAP RAP 60 SOLE DXB ’18 LINEUP 66 SWEET CHICK 80 ON AIR 84 PEACE, LOVE + UNITY 86 THE POWER OF LANGUAGE IN INDIAN HIP-HOP 88 SOLE DXB ’18 TALKS 92 POWER OF SYMBOL 94 THE SOUND OF URBAN SOUTH AFRICA 98 ALEX 102 MAC COSMETICS FOR SOLE 126 AFRICA IS THE FUTURE 130 SKATE CPT 138 01 COLLECTIVE PROGRESSION 152 KEEP ON HUSTLIN’ 154 KNOWLEDGE REIGNS SUPREME 160 COLLABS, ROTATIONS + RESELLING 168 ROCK RUBBER 45s 174 HOOPS 4 HOPE 178 ASPHALT CHRONICLES 180 FOR THE LOVE OF THE GAME 192 KAWS 200 EARLY RETIREMENT 202 PARTICIPATING BRANDS 214 THE MIRAGE OF AFRICAN UNITY 252 FROM CREW TO MOVEMENT 254 ADIDAS YUNG 256 THE AGE OF INFLUENCE 258 EVA LOSADA 264 SPACE IS THE PLACE 272 COVER SHO MADJOZI Special thanks to MAC Cosmetics Photography by Photography by Maxwell Aurelien James Andile Buka 3 Editor’s Note In a year where the world marked the 30th anniversary of Coming home, our minds were more self-aware to what we saw the Second Summer of Love, we can’t help but notice that around us. The Middle East is bursting with youth and creativity. something’s happening around us. Just like in 1988 and in Young minds are finding that they can make a living by being 1967 before that, a new generation of ideas is shaping the creative. That the value they offer is being recognised by those fabric of society. around them. You’d be hard-pressed to find a friend that, while growing up, In seeing this, it became clear to us that the story we were looking didn’t have a run-in with a parent that couldn’t understand the for was all around us; in our wider region. From India to the music they listened to, the books they bought, or the clothes they Middle East to Africa, we are what’s next. chose to wear. These cultural forms have long served as markers that were supposed to differentiate us from those that came The magazine you are holding today is a chronicle of that before us; but these differences weren’t a clean break with the journey. It’s a compilation of collaborations and contributions generations above. Instead, they were an evolution of the way we from people we respect and look up to. From the artists we grew expressed ourselves. up with to storytellers we met this year, what you’re holding is our take on some of the best in the business. For many that come to Sole DXB, they see a cultural festival that takes place over three nights and two days, but to get to that As in any year, our journey has come with its ups and downs and weekend in December, we wade through 12 months, looking for we’ve made it this far through the strength and support of those our story; the thread we want to pull on. It’s an investment of time around us. To our families, friends, partners, better halves, and and a willingness to explore how other communities manifest our frequent collaborators… Thank you for your love, positive their thoughts. energy, and guidance. The search for this year’s story took us to South Africa. Twice. We are confident that on December 6th, 7th and 8th our community will make its mark. South Africa was a game-changer. For those that see the issues of race, culture and societal inequity as abstractions, South Welcome to the 7th edition of Sole DXB. Africa will re-frame your mindset. The legacy of apartheid is unlikely to disappear in our lifetime, but there is a generation Peace & Love, of citizens that have made it their life’s work to dismantle what apartheid built, so that they can uncover and build upon what Sole came before it. From Cape Town to Jozi, we met writers, designers, musicians, thinkers, creators. They not only welcomed us into their communities, they helped us form thoughts on how to shape our own. 4 soledxb.com Event Edition 5 HARAAMIS.COM | @Haraamis ‘DAMN, YOUR ONCE THE ATTIRE OF APARTHEID-ERA GANGSTERS, SNEAKERS – OR TEKKIES – HAVE BECOME LESS A SIGN OF THE TRUE COUNTERCULTURE AND MORE PURELY ASPIRATIONAL. EVE FAIRBANKS DELVES SNEAKERS INTO A WORLD OF CRIME, STYLE AND EXCLUSIVITY. ARE COOL’ WORDS EVE FAIRBANKS 8 soledxb.com Event Edition 9 ARTICLE Moss Moeng, a slender 28-year-old from Soweto, got his camps, really – around white-run Johannesburg began studio in an up-and-coming neighbourhood downtown. That’s a shift, certainly, from what tekkies used to mean first pair of sneakers when he was 10 – a pair of hardly- to dress in a new style they lifted from American movies. “The money to go on a date would be money to buy a in South Africa. In her 2017 book Sorry, Not Sorry, worn adidas Grand Prix that didn’t quite fit his father. These movies, ironically, had been introduced into the pair of sneakers.” the South African feminist of colour Haji Mohamed Nike Air Jordans had just come to the country. Moss townships by white officials to try to teach black people Dawjee recalled being asked by teachers to remove her had never wanted anything so badly that he thought of a pliant morality that would keep them complicit with He calls them ‘sneakers’, not tekkies, because he also Converses because they were “the shoes of criminals”, working outside his school assignments before, but a segregation. “The city council would put on a movie loves sneakerhead culture. He reads global sneakerhead and feeling proud. She was happy to be a ‘criminal’ in a dream was born in him – the dream of owning a pair of where a nice wholesome FBI officer won the day,” Clive blogs every day. He follows collabs with international society whose ‘normal’ was so screwed up. black Jordans. Glaser, a sociologist who’s written about South African artists, musicians, and sports stars; his favourites, style, told me. “But the gang culture absorbed the style of currently, are new LeBrons and Converse’s collab with the Dawjee complains that, in the late ‘80s, white South He began to wander to unusual street corners to play the baddies in the movies instead of the goodies.” rapper Tyler, The Creator. Africans who wanted to pose as rebels, but who didn’t dice with older men for cash; he found a bulk snack-food really have the cred, started to adopt Converses. supplier to sell him boxes of cookies to re-sell in his school The ‘baddies’ were gangsters or outlaws who, then, wore He says there’s a divide between what, in Soweto, are Gradually – as the townships became less officially taboo, hallways. It took him three years to save the $120 for the cowboy boots or Italian patent-leather shoes with a called “OGs in the game” – ‘original gangsters’ or ‘old less overtly the object of contempt, and privileged South right kicks, which were, by then, Converse All-Stars – an glimmering shine. Fine shoes were especially important guys’ who like to collect the newest, most high-tech Africans became more forcibly conscious of the injustice unusual pair with two layers, a dark brown canvas on the to black South African urban rebels, since investing in looking kicks, like the Nike Shox or Foamposites – and of their privilege – companies began to realise there was outside and a light brown on the inside. expensive shoes and keeping them clean signalled you the “cool kids”, a younger generation that’s “looking into a business in appealing to people whose pockets are were above working in a garden, toiling in the mines, the past” to classics like Converse and Vans. Moss often still deep but who want to appear like they’re down with The first night he wore them out it was to a party up or walking in the dust to a job as a janitor – the kinds combs tatty outdoor markets where charities dump the block, too.