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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Cristian Bonetto First and foremost, an epic thankyou to Drew West- Many thanks to the travellers who used the last brook for his hospitality and generosity. Sincere edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful thanks also to Craig Bradbery, Tim Crabtree, Amy advice and interesting anecdotes: Chris Senior, Helen Snazell, Jack and Deidre Evans, Jane Edwards, Ratcliffe, Leanne Layfield, Terese Finegan, Michael Jenny Williams, Jerry Palmer, Kay Blaha, Nadine Flocke, Simon Betteridge, Annabel Sullivan, Garry Kleeman, Sain Alizada, Sebastian Hochradner, Sergio Judd and the many locals who offered insight and Estevao, Steve Walker insider knowledge along the way. At Lonely Planet, a huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for her support and encouragement. WRITER THANKS Peter Dragicevich Andy Symington Researching this guidebook was an absolute As a prodigal Sydneysider returned for this project, pleasure, especially because of the wonderful I’ve had so much invaluable advice and help from company that I had on the road. Special thanks go friends, about what’s going on in town, that I can’t to Braith Bamkin, Peter van Gaalen, Marg Toohey possibly thank them all. Tourist offices and more and Jo Stafford for all their practical assistance in were helpful across the region. Particular gratitude, , and to David Mills and Barry Sawtell for however, goes to Stephen Freiberg, Kate McGuin- the Morrissey safari. And cheers to all my ness, Hugh O’Keefe, Ben Hamilton, Matthew Beech, eating and drinking buddies along the way, espe- Iain and Amanda Ashley, Tasmin Waby and the LP cially Errol Hunt, Kim Shearman, Cristian Bonetto team. And also, as ever, to my family. and Maryanne Netto. Kate Armstrong Paul Harding Particular thanks to Jacqui Loftus-Hills, Visit Vic- Thanks to all those travellers and locals who helped toria; Wendy Jones, Goulburn River Valley Tourism; with company and advice on my journey through Sue Couttie, Tourism Northeast; Marie Glasson, ’s most remote corners, especially the Greater City Council; Fran Martin, helpful guys who got me out of vehicular trouble Echuca Visitor Information Centre. Finally, to my at Elliot Falls. Thanks to Tamara for coffee and a dear friends Sue Mulligan, Lou Bull and Emmo – chat in , and to Tasmin at LP. But mostly to with thanks. Hannah and Layla for being there. 519 Trent Holden writer in one’s own backyard. At LP, mega-thanks First up a massive thanks to Tasmin Waby for to Tasmin Waby for the gig, and for your eternal commissioning me to update the bulk of regional encouragement; and to chapter co-author Paul . Was an absolute honour to cover my home Harding. The biggest clink of the coconuts goes, state. Totally blown away how much cool stuff as ever, to my favourite FNQers: my crazy croco- there is to visit out here. Thanks to all the tourist diles Dušan and Masha. visitor centres across the state, who are staffed SCENES THE BEHIND by a fantastic team of volunteers who are doing a Tom Spurling sensational job. Cheers to everyone else for giving To Goose for riding shotgun to and me the time of day for a chat, and helping me put making me go for a jog. To Lucy for sleeping in together this new edition. As per always lots of love the backseat and showing no interest in cryptic to my family, particularly my partner Kate, who I crosswords. To the bar staff in Ravenswood for had the great fortune of having accompany me reminding me why I wanted this job in the first around this time round. place. To The Whitsundays for being discovered. To the Town of 1770 for providing so many open- Kate Morgan ings at dinner parties (‘A number? Really?’). To Big thanks to Destination Editor, Tasmin Waby, for my children for not missing me very much (I will the opportunity to basically eat and drink my way never forget that slight, O and P). around Melbourne’s best neighbourhoods! Thank you to Caro Cooper for suggestions and being a Donna Wheeler drinking partner on occasion, and to my partner Love and gratitude to Juliette Claire for her inspi- Trent for all your help and support. ration and incredible regional knowledge. Thanks to ex-locals Peter Maclaine and Debbie Wheeler, Charles Rawlings-Way especially for Pete’s surfing expertise. Thanks to Huge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to all the Harry in Broadbeach, to the Byron skydivers and helpful souls I met and friends I reconnected with to Amanda and Simon in Brunswick Heads for on the road who flew through my questions with great hospo insights. Thanks also to Nic Wrathall the greatest of ease. Biggest thanks of all to Meg, for your company during some long research who held the increasingly chaotic fort while I was days and Brigid Healy and Andrew King, Kate busy scooting around in the sunshine (‘Where’s Dale, Darryn Devlin for homecoming love. daddy?’) – and made sure that Ione, Remy, Liv Finally thanks to Joe Guario. for everything. and Reuben were fed, watered, schooled, tucked in and read to. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Tamara Sheward BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of Sweaty Cairns hugs and hearty thanks to my the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- friends, family, local experts and random ring- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. ins who helped me delve ever deeper into the Cover photograph: Surfing near Noosa, Queensland, wonders of my hometown and surrounds; it’s Nick Rains/Getty Images © always an eye-opener being a traveller/travel

Destination Editor Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Chris Pitts, Gabrielle Stefanos, This 6th edition of Lonely Product Editor Jessica Ryan, Saralinda Turner, Simon Planet’s East Coast Catherine Naghten Williamson guidebook was researched Senior Cartographer Cartographer and written by Andy Syming- Julie Sheridan Rachel Imeson ton, Kate Armstrong, Cristian Book Designer Cover Researcher Bonetto, Peter Dragicevich, Nicholas Colicchia Campbell McKenzie Paul Harding, Trent Holden, Thanks to Jennifer Carey, Kate Morgan, Charles Rawl- Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Sarah Bailey, Heather Champion, Daniel ings-Way, Tamara Sheward, Imogen Bannister, Michelle Corbett, Megan Eaves, Sandie Tom Spurling and Donna Bennett, Laura Crawford, Kestell, Claire Naylor, Karyn Wheeler. The previous edition Melanie Dankel, Andrea Noble, MaSovaida Morgan, was coordinated by Charles Dobbin, Gabrielle Innes, Ali Lauren O’Connell, Rachel Rawlings-Way. This guide- Lemer, Jodie Martire, Rosie Rawling, Vicky Smith, Angela book was produced by the Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Tinson, Clifton Wilkinson following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 520

Index

A Australian Football League Boreen Point 358-9 Great Ocean Road 244 Abbott, Tony 487 (AFL) 215, 496 120 Great South West Aboriginal culture, see Australian Motorcycle Bowen 416 Walk 264 Indigenous culture Grand Prix 243 Brae 256 Aboriginal history, see Australian Open 24, 215, 498 breweries 495 Paluma Ranges National Indigenous history Australian Rules football Bribie Island 346-7 Park 431 215, 496 abseiling 41, 114, 291, 445 16, 46, 279-316, Wilsons Promontory National Park 272 accommodation 502-3, see 280, 282-3, 286-7, 152 also individual locations B 290, 292, 16, 43 activities 24-6, 39-44, see Babinda 458 accommodation 279, business hours 21, 507 also individual activities Ballina 155-6 296-8 Byfield 391 Agnes Water 383-5 164-5 activities 290-3 13, 45, 157-64, , , air travel 511-12 barbecues 500 climate 279 134 158-9 13 accommodation 133, Aireys Inlet 254-5 Bargara 375 courses 294-5 159-6 Airlie Beach 405-11, 406 Barrenjoey Lighthouse 72 drinking & nightlife 304-9 activities 157-8 alcohol 98 Batemans Bay 191-2 entertainment 309-11 beaches 163 amusement parks, see beaches 22, 88-9, 403, festivals & events 295-6 theme parks climate 133 88-9, see also individual food 279, 298-304 drinking & nightlife 162 Anglesea 253-4 beaches highlights 280 festivals & events 158-9 Angourie 153-5 beer 495 shopping 311-16 food 133, 161-2 animals, see individual Bellarine Peninsula 249 sights 281-9 species, wildlife highlights 134 Bellingen 146-8 tours 293-4 Apollo Bay 257-8 shopping 162-3 Bells Beach 253, 41 tourist information 314 aquariums sights 157 Bells Line of Road 116 travel to from 314-15 Cairns Aquarium 439 tourist information 163 199 travel seasons 279 Manly Sea Life tours 158 Bermagui 195-6 trave within 315-16 Sanctuary 71 travel seasons 133 Berry 185-6 Brisbane Water National Reef HQ Aquarium 419 travel to/from 163 bicycle travel, see cycling Park 120 Reef World 363 Bilpin 116 Broadbeach 329-30 Sea Life Sunshine Broken River 402 Coast 351 biosecurity 504 C Brunswick Heads 164 Sydney Sea Life birdwatching 41 Cabarita Beach 164 Aquarium 61 Broughton Island 138 Buchan 275-6 Cairns 48, 414, 439-55 Arcadia Bay 425 Montague Island 193 budget 21 440-3 area codes 21, 507-8 Paluma Range National 373-5 accommodation 438, 447-9 art galleries, see museums Park 431 Bundaberg Rum 373, 495 & galleries Blackheath 119-20 activities 443-6- ATMs 506 Bleach Festival 325 154 climate 438 Atherton 461 Blue Mountains 14, 113-20, Burke, Robert O’Hara 483 festivals & events 446-7 Atherton Tableands 450, 114, 14, 44 Burleigh Heads 330-3, 330 food 438, 449-52 459-63 boat travel 512-13, see also Burleigh Head National highlights 440 Australia Day 24 sailing Park 330 shopping 453 Australia 347 Booderee National Park 189 Burrum Coast National sights 439-43 65, 10-11, 88-9 Park 372 tourist information 453 Bondi Icebergs Pool 75, 103 bus travel 511-13 tours 443-6 bushwalking 40 Map Pages 000 books 25, 478, 481 travel seasons 438 Blue Mountains 119 Photo Pages 000 Border Ranges National travel to/from 453-4 Park 167 Cooloola Coast 358 521 travel within 454-55 children, travel with 59, 504 59-63, 44 festivals 24-6, 358 348-51, 349 Chillagoe 466 Daydream Island 412 films 478 camping 38, 502-3 Chinatown (Brisbane) 289 debit cards 506 Finch Hatton Gorge 401-2 Canberra 17, 45, 169-79, Chinatown (Melbourne) Deepwater National Fish Creek 267-8 170, 172, 17 203 Park 385 Falls 184 accommodation 169, Chinatown (Sydney) 59 dingoes 380 Fitzroy Island 455

175-6 Clifton Beach 458 disabilities, travellers with food 245, 493-5, 506, INDEX climate 169 climate 20, 24-6, 321, see 508-9 see also individual drinking & nightlife 177-8 also individual regions diving & snorkelling locations entertainment 178 climate change 478, 488- 42-3, 42 football 215, 496, see also C–G festivals & events 175 92, 511 Byron Bay 158 soccer food 169, 176-7 clownfish 61, 414 Cairns 445, 465 Frankland Islands 455 highlights 170 Cockatoo Island 68 151 Fraser Coast 47, 361-80, sights 171-5 coffee 494 courses 38, 42 362 accommodation 361 tourist information 178-9 Coffs Harbour 149-52, 150 Fraser Island 373 climate 361 tours 175 consulates 505 Great Barrier Reef 36-8 food 361 travel seasons 169 Conway National Park 411 Jervis Bay 188 highlights 362 travel to/from 171, 178-9 Cook, Captain James 278, Merimbula 197 travel seasons 361 travel within 179 480-1 Montague Island 193 Fraser, Dawn 498 canyoning 41 Coolangatta 334-6, 334-5 North Stradbroke Island 317 Fraser Island 15, 47, canoeing see kayaking & Cooloola Coast 357-9 canoeing Coolum 355-6 Queenscliff 250 375-80, 15 Cape Bridgewater 266 coral 447, 488-92, 500 Sorrento 239 fuel 513 Cape Byron Lighthouse Cow Bay 472 Sydney 73-4 157, 32 credit cards 506 423, 415 G Cape Byron State Crescent Head 142-3 Whitsunday Islands 403 Gabo Island 277 Conservation Park 157 cricket 207, 485, 497 Dooragan National Park galleries, see museums & Cape Conran Coastal Croajingolong National 139 galleries Park 276 Park 278 Dorrigo 148-9 gardens, see parks & Cape Hillsborough National crocodiles 500-1 148 gardens Park 402 Crowdy Bay National drinks 493-5 gay travellers 97, 506 Cape Nelson lighthouse Park 139 driving, see car travel Brisbane 305 267 cruises 512, see also Dunk Island 436 Melbourne 228 Cape Otway 258-9 sailing Sydney 24, 99, 101 Cape Tribulation 472-6, culture 478-9 245-8 474, 29 Cumberland Islands 402 E Echo Point 117, Gem Fields 394 Capricorn Caves 389 currency 20, 506-7 14 economy 478-9 Gillard, Julia 487 Capricorn Coast 47, 381-94, Currumbin 333-4 382 Eden 198-9 Gippsland 267-78, 268-9 Currumbin Wildlife Gladstone 385-7 accommodation 381 Sanctuary 333 electricity 505 climate 381 Ellis Beach 458 Glass House Mountains Curtis Island 385 347-8 food 381 embassies 505 customs regulations 504 gold 482-4 highlights 382 emergencies 21 cycling 40-1, 512-13, 43 Gold Coast 46, 321-37, travel seasons 381 environmental issues 488- Bellarine Rail Trail 249 322, 32 Capricorn Hinterland 393-4 92, 504, 511 Brisbane 157 accommodation 321 car travel 512-14, etiquette 507 514-15 Cairns 454-5 climate 321 road distance charts Eumundi 359 Great Southern Rail food 321 514-15 Eungella 401 Trail 269 highlights 322 rules 516-17 Melbourne 237 Eungella National Park 401-2 travel to/from 323 Cardwell 429 Sydney 73 Eurimbula National Park travel within 323 Carnarvon Gorge 393-4 cyclones 410 385 Grafton 152-3 Carnarvon National Park 393-4 Eurobodalla Coast 191-5 Grand Canyon Walk 119, 44 cassowaries 435 D events 24-6, 358 Grand Prix 243 Cathedral Rock National D’Aguilar National Park 294 exchange rates 21 Great Barrier Reef 11, 33-8, Park 147 Daintree 471-6 48, 414-15, 35, 11, 29, Cedar Galleries 386 Daintree Rainforest 12, 48, 42, 414-15 12, 29 F camping 38 cell phones 20, 507 farmstays 389 dance 233 climate 33 Central Coast 51, 120-1, 51 federation 484 dangers, see safety climate change 488-92 Childers 371-2 Federation Walk 327 522 Great Barrier Reef Hunter Valley 15, 121-6, 122 Eden 198 71, 71 continued Jervis Bay 188 maps 506 diving & snorkelling 36-8 Melbourne 215 markets islands 34 I Illawarra Escarpment State Mission Beach 433 Brisbane 301, 313 tours 37 Conservation Area 181 Noosa 341 farmers markets 494 Great Barrier Reef immigration 511 Port Stephens 135 Gold Coast 330

INDEX INDEX Marine Park 488 Indigenous culture 22, Rainbow Beach 368 Magnetic Island 427 Great Keppel Island 392-3, Aboriginal Cultural Sydney 74-5 Melbourne 203, 211, 235 393 Concepts 155 Whitsunday Islands 403 Sydney 63

G–M Great Northern Blue Mountains 113 Kennett River 257 Expedition 483 Maroochydore 351-5, 354 Brisbane Water National Kiama 183-4 Great Ocean Road 16, 244- Maryborough 370-1 Park 120 67, 246-7, 16 15 measures 504 Dreamtime Cultural tours 248 Care Centre 165 medical services 505 Centre 388 Green Island 455 Koala Conservation Melbourne 14, 46, 200-38, Fireworks Gallery 285 Centre 242 Great Sandy National Park 201, 204-5, 208-9, Hinchinbrook Island 430 357-8 Magnetic Island 426 212, 216, 218, 220, 14 Jellurgal Cultural Centre Great South West Walk 265 Koonwarra 267-8 accommodation 200, 331 217-39 Guringai people 76 Kuranda 459 Krowathunkoolong Ku-ring-gai Chase activities 215 Guy Fawkes River National Keeping Place 276 Park 147 National Park 76 climate 200 Koorie Heritage Trust 371 drinking & nightlife 203 227-31 Melbourne 203, 215, 233 L entertainment 231-3 Lady Elliot Island 19, H Mossman Gorge 470 festivals & events 215 387, 19 Hamilton Island 412-13 Narana Aboriginal food 200, 222-7 Cultural Centre 246 Lake Cooroibah 358 143 itineraries 225 shopping 233 Lake Cootharaba 358-9 Hawkesbury River 125 medical services 235-6 Tjapukai Aboriginal Lake Tinaroo 463 Hayman Island 413 shopping 233-9 Cultural Park (Cairns) Lakes District 272-5 health 500, 505 sights 202-13 443 Lakes Entrance 274-5, Heron Island 387 tourist information Townsville Cultural 274-5 363-8, 364-5 235-6 Centre 419 Lamington National Park hiking, see bushwalking Indigenous history 174, 337 tours 215 Hinchinbrook Island 430 480, 482, 486 73 travel seasons 200 history 480-7 Indigenous people 13, 23 language 20 travel to/from 236-7 Anzacs 484-5 Ingham 428 legal matters 506 travel within 237-8 colonisation 480-1 Innisfail 436-7 Lennox Head 156-7 walks 214, 214 convict beginnings 481 insurance lesbian travellers Melbourne Cup 215, 498 goldrush 482-4 car & motorcycle 515 Brisbane 305 Melbourne International Film Festival 216 Indigenous history 174, health 505 Melbourne 228 480, 482, 486 Menzies, Robert 486 travel 505 Sydney 24, 99, 101 museums 485 Merimbula 196-8, internet access 505-6 Leura 116-17 197 nationhood 484 Mermaid 329-30 internet resources 21, 495, licensing laws 98 recent history 487 502-3, 508-9, 510 Metung 273 Lindeman Island 413 war & the Great itineraries 27-30 Millaa Millaa 461 Lismore 165-7 Depression 484-5 Mission Beach 47, 431-6, Lizard Island 473 women 484 432 Long Island 411 WWII 485 J mobile phones 20, 507 jellyfish 42, 501 Lorne 255-6 hitchhiking 517 Mogo 192 Jenolan Caves 120 (Melbourne) 213 holidays 507 Mollymook 189-91 Jervis Bay 187-9 Luna Park (Sydney) 69 Home & Away 72 Mon Repos 373 Jourama Falls 431 Hook Island 411 money 20, 21, 502, 506-7 horse racing 498 M Montague Island Horseshoe Bay 426-37 K Mabo, Eddie 486 (Baranguba) 18, 193, 18 hostels 83 kangaroos 174, 402 Mackay 397-400, 398 Mooloolaba 351-5, 352 Howard, John 487 Kangaroo Valley 184-5 Magnetic Island 424-8 Moreton Island 319-20 Katoomba 117-19 Mahon Rock Pool 88, 89 Mornington Peninsula kayaking & canoeing 41, 43 Main Beach 327-9, 328 239-42 Map Pages 000 Byron Bay 157 Malanda 461-2 Mornington Peninsula Photo Pages 000 Cairns 445 Maleny 360 National Park 242 523 Moruya 192 National Portrait Gallery Park 393-4 Tamborine National mosquitoes 501 171 Cathedral Rock National Park 336 Mossman 470 Newcastle Art Gallery 127 Park 147 Mossman Gorge 470- Newcastle Maritime Conway National Park 135 motorcycle travel 512-4, Museum 126 411 Wilsons Promontory see also car travel 127 Crater Lakes National National Park 268 mountain biking 40-1 NGV International 206 Park 463 Wollumbin National INDEX Park 167 museums & galleries Nicholson Museum 71 Croajingolong National Park 278 Wooroonoovan National Art Gallery of NSW 57 69 458-9

Qdos Art Gallery 255-78  -M–O Australian Centre for Park 139 Worimi Conservation Contemporary Art 206 Queensland Art Gallery D’Aguilar National Park Lands 135 Australian Centre for the 287  Yuraygir National Park 294 Moving Image 202 Queensland Maritime 152 Museum 287 Deepwater National 63 Park 385 Nelson 266-7 Australian National Queensland Museum & Sciencentre 287 Dooragan National New National Maritime Museum 59 Park 139 Park 147 Australian National Rocks Discovery Dorrigo National Park Newcastle 126-32, Surfing Museum 251 Museum 52 128 148 accommodation 127, 129 Australian War Memorial Susannah Place Museum 53, 57 Eungella National Park activities 127 171-2 401 Sydney Jewish Museum beaches 130 Brett Whiteley Studio 63 Eurimbula National 64-5 drinking & nightlife 130-1 Cairns Regional Gallery Park 385 Tanks Arts Centre 439 entertainment 131 439 Great Sandy National Canopy Art Centre 439 White Rabbit 69 Park 357-8 food 129-30 Cedar Galleries 386 Murramarang National Guy Fawkes River shopping 131 Chinese Musuem 203 Park 189 National Park 147 sights 126-7 Fireworks Gallery 285 music 482 Hat Head National tourist information 131 Gallery of Modern classical music 105, 233 Park 143 travel to/from 131-2 Art 285 live music 106, 231-2 Ku-ring-gai Chase travel within 132 Geelong Art Gallery 245 National Park National Park 76 newspapers 504 137-9 Heide Museum of Lamington National 167 Mystery Bay 193 Modern Art 203 Park 337 Nimbin 167-8 Hyde Park Barracks Lane Cove National Ninety Mile Beach 273 Museum 57 Park 73 N Nobby Beach 329-30 Justin Art House Minnamurra Rainforest Nambucca Heads 144-6, Noosa 46, 340-6, , Museum 213 Centre 183 341 343 145 accommodation 342-4 Ian Potter Centre: NGV Montague Island Narooma 192-5, Australia 202 194 (Baranguba) 193 activities 340-2 national parks & reserves, Institute of Modern Mornington Peninsula courses 342 see also parks & Art 285 National Park 242 drinking & nightlife gardens KickArts 439 Murramarang National 345-6 Ben Boyd National Park 189 festivals & events 342 Leuralla NSW Toy & Rail- Park 199 way Museum 116-17 Muttonbird Island 149 food 344-5, 345-6 Booderee National Myall Lakes National shopping 346 Maritime Museum of Park 189 Townsville 419 Park 137-9 sights 340-2 Border Ranges National New England National Melbourne Museum 207 Park 167 tours 342 Park 147 Mornington Peninsula Bouddi National Park tourist information 346 Nightcap National Regional Gallery 240 120 travel to/from 340, 346 Park 167 Museum of Australian Brisbane Water National travel within 346 Oxley Wild Rivers Democracy 174 Park 120 National Park 147 Noosa National Park 15 Museum of Brisbane 281 Bundjalung National Paluma Range National North Stradbroke Island Museum of Park 154 Park 431 316-9, 317 Contemporary Art 53 Burleigh Head National Point Nepean National North West Island 387 57-8 Park 330 Park 241 Nowra 186-7 Museum of Tropical Burrum Coast National Port Campbell National Queensland 419 Park 372 Park 259, 16 National Capital Cape Byron State O 182-3 Exhibition 175 Conservation Park 157 octopuses 501 Springbrook National National Gallery of Cape Hillsborough Old Bar 139 Park 337 Australia 171 National Park 402 Olympic Games Sydney Sydney Harbour National National Museum of Carnarvon National 2000 487 Australia 175 Park 68, 71 524 opening hours 21, 507 Melbourne 202-3 Ravenswood 425 Surfers Paradise 323-6, 324 Orpheus Island 429 passports 511 Raymond Island 277 surfing 41-2, 498, 41 Otway Fly 259 Paynesville 277 Red Rock 152 Batemans Bay 191 outback 425 penguins 193, 242, 260, 17 religion 479 Byron Bay 158 Oxley Wild Rivers National Peregian Beach 356-7 Rip Curl Pro 253 Coffs Harbour 150 Park 147 Phar Lap 485, 498 rock climbing 41 Crescent Head 142 INDEX INDEX Phillip Island 242-4, 17 Rockhampton 388-90 Gold Coast 336 P phonecards 508 Royal National Park 182-3 Merimbula 196 Palm Beach 333-4 Picnic Bay 424 Rudd, Kevin 487 North Stradbroke

P–T Island 318  Palm Cove 456-8, 414-15 planning rugby 496-7 Paluma Range National budgeting 21 141 Park 431 calendar of events 24-6 Port Stephens 135 S Sydney 75 Pambula 196-8 East Coast Australia safety 500-1 basics 20-1 Torquay 252 parks & gardens beaches 500 East Coast Australia’s 179 Australian National bushfires 500 Botanic Gardens 174 regions 45 swimming 498 cyclones 410 Barangaroo Reserve 53 Great Barrier Reef 33-8 Sydney 11, 18, 45, 50-113, hitchhiking 517 Birrarung Marr 202 internet resources 21 51, 56-7, 60, 62,64, road hazards 516 Booderee Botanic itineraries 27-32 66-7, 70, 72, 74, 77-8, sun safety 500 Gardens 189 travel seasons 20 18, 44, 102 water safety 500 Brisbane Botanic Point Break 253 accommodation 50, wildlife 500-1 Gardens 289 Point Nepean National 79-85 Centennial Park 65 Park 241 sailing 12, 43, 403, 409 activities 73-5 Central Park (Sydney) politics 486-7 Sale 272-3 climate 50 69-71 population 479 Sapphire Coast 195-9 drinking & nightlife Chinese Garden of Port Campbell 260-1 Sarina 400 96-105 Friendship 59, 61 Port Campbell National Sarina Beach 401 entertainment 105-7 City Botanic Gardens Park 259, 16 scenic flights 269, 271, 29 festivals & events 78-9 (Brisbane) 281 Port Douglas 414, 463-70, Schoolies 325 food 50, 85-96 Djanbung Gardens 168 463-70, 414 seals 18 highlights 51 Fitzroy Gardens 207 accommodation 467-8 sharks 501 itineraries 53 Flecker Botanic Garden drinking 469-70 Shoalhaven Coast 185-91 shopping 107-10 439 entertainment 469-70 skydiving 151, 157, 293 sights 52-73 Hyde Park 58 festivals & events 467 smoking 504 tours 75-8 King Edward Park 127 food 468-9 snakes 501 tourist information 110 Mackay Regional shopping 470 travel seasons 50 Botanical Gardens 397 snorkelling, see diving & sights 465-6 snorkelling travel to/from 110-11 Mrs Macquaries Point 52 tours 466-7 soccer 497-8 travel within 111-13 National Arboretum 174 Port Fairy 264-5 Sorrento 239-40 walks 80, 80 436 Port Macquarie 139-42, South Molle Island 412 Sydney Gay & Lesbian Rockhampton Botanic 140-1 Mardi Gras 24, 78 Gardens 388 South Stradbroke Island Portland 265 332 19, Roma Street Parkland 281 Portsea 239-40 South West Rocks 143-4 52, 7, 19 Royal Botanic Garden Sydney Harbour (Sydney) 52 Port Stephens 135-7, 136 Southern Reef Islands 47, 387, 414 Fireworks 26 Royal Botanic Gardens postal services 507 Sydney Harbour National (Melbourne) 211 Proserpine 405 spiders 501 Park 68, 71 Townsville Botanic public holidays 507 sports 108, 479, 496-8 see also individual sports 53 Gardens 419 public transport 517 52, Wentworth Falls Springbrook National Reserve 116 Park 337 105, 18, 102-3 Wollongong Botanic Q St Kilda 213, 220 Garden 180 Sunshine Beach 356-7 59, 102 T parliament buildings Sunshine Coast 46, Tamborine Mountain Queenscliff 250-1 Brisbane 281 338-60, 339 336-7 Canberra 173-4, 17 accommodation 338 taxes 512 R climate 338 telephone services 20, Radical Bay 426 food 338 507-8 highlights 339 Map Pages 000 radio 504 tennis 24, 215, 498 travel to/from 340 Photo Pages 000 rafting 430 theme parks 329 travel within 340 525 329 travel within East Coast Jervis Bay 187-8 Mornington Peninsula 241 Luna Park (Melbourne) Australia 512-17 Mooloolaba 535 Wollongong 179-83, 180 213 Trinity Beach 456 Sydney 72, 76 Luna Park (Sydney) 69 Tully 430-1 white-water rafting 430 167 Turnbull, Malcolm 487 Whitsunday Coast 395-413, women travellers 510 Warner Bros Movie World turtles 373, 402 396 Woodford Folk Festival 358

Wet’n’Wild 73 TV 504 accommodation 395 Woolgoolga 152 INDEX Whitewater World Twelve Apostles 259-61, 16 climate 395 work 510 Thorpe, Ian 498 food 395 Wye River 256-7 ticks 501 highlights 396 T–Z U Tidal River 269, Whitsunday Island 413 18 Ulladulla 189-91 Y Tilba Tilba 195 Whitsunday Islands 12, Yamba 153-5 47, 403-13, 414, time 20, 508 404, Yeppoon 390-2 tipping 493, 507 V 12 see also individual islands Yorkeys Knob 456 Tomaree National Park 135 vacations 507 wildlife 17, 22, 41 see also Yungaburra 462-3 Torquay 251-3 Vegemite 494 , individual species tourist information 508 visas 20, 509 wildlife watching 17, 22, 41 Tower Hill Reserve 263 volunteering 509-10 Z Brisbane 289 Town of 1770 383 zoos and wildlife parks Cape Nelson 266 Townsville 47, 414, 419-24 Alexandra Park & Zoo W Magnetic Island 426 373 418, 415 walking, see bushwalking Phillip Island 243 Australia Zoo 347 accommodation 417, walking tours 421-2 Queenscliff 250 Sydney 80, 80 120 climate 417 wildlife parks, see zoos Melbourne 214, 214, 14 Billabong Sanctuary 419 drinking & nightlife 423 Wills, William ‘Jack’ 483 262-3 Cairns Zoom & Wildlife festivals & events 421 Wilson Island 387 water safety 500 Dome 444 food 417 Wilsons Promontory 18, 147 267-72, , , Melbourne Zoo 211 highlights 418 268-9 18 23 weather 20, 24-6 see Wilsons Promontory Mogo Zoo 192 shopping 423 also individual regions National Park 268, 270 National Zoo & tourist information 424 weights 504 wine 494 Aquarium 174 travel to/from 424 Wentworth Falls 116 wine regions 494-5 Rockhampton Zoo 388 travel within 424 whale watching 25, 39 Bellarine Peninsula 249 Taronga Zoo 68-9 transport 511-17 Eden 198 Hunter Valley 15, 121-3, Wild Life travel to/from East Coast Hervey Bay 363, 366 126, 61-2 Australia 511 15 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 526

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book Paul Harding Port Douglas & the Daintree As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Iceland, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, , Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.

Trent Holden Victoria A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30 plus guidebooks across Asia, and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor and reviewer, and spends all his money catching live gigs.

Kate Morgan Melbourne Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destina- tions such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a freelance editor.

Charles Rawlings-Way Plan Your Trip, Understand Charles Rawlings-Way is a veteran travel writer who has penned 30-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singa- pore, Toronto, Sydney, , New Zealand, the South Pacific and Australia – and numerous articles. After dabbling in the dark arts of architecture, cartogra- phy, project management and busking for some years, Charles hit the road for LP in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since.

Tamara Sheward Cairns & Around After years of freelance travel writing, rock’n’roll journalism and insalubrious authordom, Tamara joined the Lonely Planet ranks in 2009. Since then, she’s worked on guides to an incongruous jumble of countries including Montene- gro, Australia, Serbia, Russia, the Samoas, Bulgaria and Fiji. She’s written a miscel- lany of travel articles for the BBC, the Independent, Sydney Morning Herald et al; she’s also fronted the camera as a documentary presenter for Lonely Planet TV, Nat Geo and Al-Jazeera. Tamara’s based in far northern Australia, but you’re more likely to find her roaming elsewhere, tattered notebook in one hand, the world’s best-travelled toddler in the other.

Tom Spurling Coastal Queensland Tom is an Australian LP guidebook author and high school teacher currently based in Hong Kong in search of the long-lost expatriate package. He has worked on 13 LP titles, including Japan, China, Central Amer- ica, Turkey, India, South Africa and Australia. When not chasing his tail, Tom enjoys tucking it under his crossed legs for minutes on end.

Donna Wheeler Gold Coast, Northern NSW Donna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for 10 years, including the Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Melbourne titles. She is the author of Paris Precincts, a curated photographic guide to the city’s best bars, restaurants and shops and is reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher My Art Guides. Donna’s work on contemporary art, architecture and design, food, wine, wilderness areas and cultural history also can be found in a variety of other publications. Read more about Donna at: lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ donnawheeler AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Andy Symington Curator, Sydney & the Central Coast, South Coast NSW Andy has written or worked on more than a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines, and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the mountains. Read more about Andy at: lonelyplanet.com/profiles/andy_symington Kate Armstrong Victoria Kate Armstrong has spent much of her adult life travelling and living around the world. A full-time freelance travel journalist, she has contributed to around 40 Lonely Planet guides and trade publications and is regularly published in Australian and worldwide publications. She is the author of several books and children’s educational titles. Over the years, Kate has worked in Mozambique, picked grapes in France and danced in a Bolivian folkloric troupe. A keen photogra- pher, greedy gourmand and frenetic festival goer, she enjoys exploring off-the-beaten track locations, restaurants and theatres. Read more about Kate at: lonelyplanet.com/profiles/kate_armstrong Cristian Bonetto Brisbane, Noosa & the Sunshine Coast, Melbourne Cristian has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, including , Italy, Venice & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and de- sign appear in numerous publications around the world, including the Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne.

Peter Dragicevich Canberra, Melbourne After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current no- madic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

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