REVIEW AND APPROVALS

TETLIN NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

Tok, Alaska

ANNUAL NARRATIVE REPORT

Calendar Year 1991

DATE: J-2-92-- Refuge Manager

~ lYl - ~ DATE: 'jb7JciZ A~od~anager, Refuges & Wildlife

) ilill~lfllilllillilfll~~~lilfllli~~~~~~~l!l[lli~~~l 3 4982 00000235 1 TETLIN NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE P.O. Box 779 Tok, Alaska 99780

ANNUAL NARRATIVE REPORT

Calendar Year 1991

U.S. Department of the Interior Fish and Wildlife Service NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE SYSTEM )

Fire management activities are a key aspect of the Tetlin NWR program. Fire is an important force in maintaining biodiversity on the Refuge. TNWR-1, 9-91, LA V

) Providing opportunities for interpretation and environmental education to the public is one of the purposes for which Tetlin NWR was created. Travellers readily take advantage of the interpretive pullouts, visitor center, campgrounds and picnic area that the Refuge has to offer. TNWR-2, 9-91, LAV

) f INTRODUCTION

The Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge was established on December 2, 1980, by an act of Congress (Public Law 96-487) known as the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA). As one of over 400 refuges of the National Wildlife Refuge System located throughout the United States, this refuge like all others is managed to perpetuate its outstanding wildlife values.

The purposes of the Tetlin NWR are: 1) to conserve fish and wildlife populations and habitats in their natural diversity, 2) to fulfill international treaty obligations of the United States with respect to fish and wildlife, 3) to provide for continued subsistence uses by local residents that are consistent with the above mentioned purposes, 4) to ensure, to the maximum extent practical, water quality and necessary water quantity within the refuge, and 5) to provide, in a manner consistent with 1) and 2), opportunities for interpretation and environmental education.

This 700,000 acre refuge is located in east central Alaska, adjacent to the Yukon Territory border, directly south of the Alaska Highway and north of the Wrangell Mountain Range. Major physical features include broad flat river basins bisected by rolling hills, extensive marsh and lake complexes, foothill areas of the Nutzotin and Mentasta mountains, and two major glacial rivers which combine to form the Tanana River.

The Refuge was primarily set aside because of its unique waterfowl values. It has one of the highest densities of nesting waterfowl in Alaska, and in favorable years produces about 35,000 ducklings to flight stage. The Refuge provides habitat for 143 nesting species and 47 migrants. The Refuge also serves as a major migration corridor for many birds entering and leaving Alaska. Spectacular migrations of lesser sandhill cranes and both tundra and trumpeter swans occur each spring and fall. Up to 200,000 cranes, approximately one half of the world population of that species, migrate through the corridor. The Refuge also has its own expanding population of trumpeter swans, and provides habitat for the largest nesting concentration of ospreys in Alaska. Bald eagles are common nesters along the major rivers and shorelines of large lakes on the Refuge.

Big game animals include moose, caribou, Dall's sheep, grizzly bear, black bear, and wolf. Caribou from the Nelchina and Mentasta herds commonly winter on the Refuge, while small numbers of the 40-Mile, Macomb, and Chisana herds occasionally wander onto the Refuge. Other mammals include wolverine, lynx, marten, otter, red fox, beaver, muskrat, snowshoe hare, and mink.

Arctic grayling, burbot, lake trout, northern pike, and whitefish are present in Refuge lakes and streams. No significant salmon runs reach this far inland, although a small run of chum salmon occurs in late fall and an occasional chinook and coho have been recorded. As an interior Alaska refuge, Tetlin NWR enjoys a continental climate with low annual precipitation (10-14 inches). Day time summer temperatures often exceed 80 degrees Fahrenheit with nightly lows in the 50's and 60's. By mid-September, nightly lows drop into the upper teens and 20's. Snow can occur at anytime, but usually not between June and mid-August. During June and July there is full sunlight and/ or twilight 24 hours a day. Winter starts in early October and lasts through the end of April. Temperatures from November thru February seldom get above zero and can drop to -80 degrees. Fortunately, the wind is minimal during very cold, dry periods. This is one of the coldest inhabited places in North America.

As one of only two road-accessible Alaskan refuges, Tetlin 1\fWR has the unique opportunity of reaching out to nearly all the visitors who travel to the state via the Alaska Highway. Visitation has been averaging about 160,000 people per year. Access to most of the refuge is by small plane, river boat, or snowmachine. Foot access to the northern portion is available along the Alaska Highway from the Canada border to Gardiner Creek. Stream access for small boats is possible from the highway at Desper Creek and the Chisana River near Northway. Visitors from all of the states and many foreign countries pass along Tetlin NWR's northern boundary every year. This gives the Refuge an outstanding opportunity to provide interpretation about Alaskan habitats and the National Wildlife Refuge System.

The entire refuge is open to consumptive and non-consumptive uses throughout the year in accordance with Federal and State regulations. Primary game species taken include: moose, waterfowl, Dall's sheep, northern pike and grayling. Furbearers are taken by resident trappers who supplement their income with catches of lynx, fox, wolf, marten, muskrat, beaver and mink.

Permanent refuge staff includes a refuge manager, assistant refuge manager, secretary, fire management officer, park ranger, biologist, pilot, and maintenanceman. Facilities include a leased administration office/ garage complex and hanger in Tok, four government residences and a leased house in Tok, a 1700 square foot visitor center near the Alaska/Canada border, a bunkhouse and warehouse at Northway Junction, two campground facilities near Northway, three public use/ administration cabins, and one boatramp.

The primary thrusts of the present refuge program are concerned with: 1) assembling biological data primarily with regard to waterfowl, moose, and wolves, 2) developing the public use and interpretation programs with special emphasis on opportunities along the Alaskan Highway and environmental education in area schools and communities, 3) enhancing wildlife habitat through the use of prescribed burns, and 4) writing step-down management plans to carry out all the refuge programs addressed in the Final Comprehensive Conservation Plan. INTRODUCTION Page

TABLE OF CONTENTS ...... i

A. HIGHLIGHTS ...... 1

B. CLIMATIC CONDITIONS ...... 4

C. LAND ACQUISITIONS

1. Fee title ...... Nothing To Report 2. Easements ...... 6 3. Other ...... Nothing To Report

D. PLANNING

1. Master Plan ...... Nothing To Report 2. Management Plans ...... 7 3. Public Participation ...... 8 4. Compliance with Environmental and Cultural Resource Mandates ...... Nothing To Report 5. Research and Investigations ...... 9 6. Other...... 15

E. ADMINISTRATION

1. Personnel ...... 16 2. Youth Programs ...... 29 3. Other Manpower Programs ...... Nothing To Report 4. Volunteer Program ...... 30 5. Funding ...... 32 6. Safety ...... 33 7. Technical Assistance ...... 36 8. Other Items ...... 36

F. HABITAT MANAGEMENT

1. General ...... 39 2. Wetlands ...... 39 3. Forests ...... Nothing To Report 4. Croplands ...... Nothing To Report 5. Grasslands ...... Nothing To Report 6. Other Habitats ...... Nothing To Report

i 7. Grazing ...... Nothing To Report 8. Haying ...... Nothing To Report 9. Fire Management ...... 39 10. Pest Control ...... Nothing To Report 11. Water Rights ...... Nothing To Report 12. Wilderness and Special Area ...... Nothing To Report 13. WPA Easement Monitoring ...... Nothing To Report

G. WILDLIFE

1. Wildlife Diversity ...... 65 2. Endangered and/ or Threatened Species ...... 66 3. Waterfowl ...... 66 4. Marsh and Water Birds ...... 76 5. Shorebirds, Gulls, Terns and Allied Species ...... 77 6. Raptors ...... 78 7. Other Migratory Birds ...... 80 8. Game Mammals ...... 84 9. Marine Mammals ...... Nothing To Report 10. Other Resident Wildlife ...... 92 11. Fisheries Resources ...... 96 12. Wildlife Propagation and Stocking ...... 96 13. Surplus Animal Disposal ...... Nothing To Report 14. Scientific Collections ...... Nothing To Report 15. Animal Control ...... Nothing To Report 16. Marking and Banding ...... 97 17. Disease Prevention and Control ...... Nothing To Report

H. PUBLIC USE

1. General ...... 98 2. Outdoor Classrooms- Students ...... 100 3. Outdoor Classrooms- Teachers ...... 105 4. Interpretive Foot Trails ...... 105 5. Interpretive Tour Routes ...... 106 6. Interpretive Exhibits/Demonstrations ...... 108 7. Other Interpretive Programs ...... 109 8. Hunting ...... 110 9. Fishing ...... 111 10. Trapping ...... 112 11. Wildlife Observation ...... 113 12. Other Wildlife Oriented Recreation ...... Nothing To Report 13. Camping ...... 113

ii 14. Picnicking ...... 114 15. Off-Road Vehicling ...... 114 16. Other Non-Wildlife Oriented Recreation ...... Nothing To Report 17. Law Enforcement ...... 114 18. Cooperating Associations ...... 116 19. Concessions ...... Nothing To Report

I. EQUIPMENT AND FACILITIES

1. New Construction ...... 117 2. Rehabilitation ...... 119 3. Major Maintenance ...... 119 4. Equipment Utilization and Replacement ...... 120 5. Communication Systems ...... 122 6. Computer Systems ...... 123 7. Energy Conservation ...... 123 8. Other ...... Nothing To Report

J. OTHER ITEMS

1. Cooperative Programs ...... 124 2. Other Economic Uses ...... 124 3. Items of Interest ...... Nothing To Report 4. Credits ...... 125

K. FEEDBACK ...... 127

L. INFORMATION PACKET (inside back cover)

iii A. HIGHLIGHTS

* The fall and early winter of 1991-92 is considerably warmer than normal with no complaints from the refuge staff. (Section B.)

* An easement is acquired across t..he Louis Frank allotment which allows public access to the Hidden Lake fishery. (Section C.l.)

* Spring subsistence waterfowl meetings are held in the villages of Tetlin and Northway. (Section H.8.)

* Federal Subsistence Programmatic meetings are held in Tok and Northway. (Section D.3.)

* Cooperative lynx study begins second year on refuge lands with the trapping and collaring of ten lynx during the Spring and three more captured during the Fall with the aid of dogs. (Section D.5.)

* Results from contaminant samples taken from the Northway DDT Study are received and placed into a computer database for further analysis. (Section D.5.)

* A study concerning the feasibility of doing one duck brood survey versus two surveys is completed. (Section D.5.)

* Subsistence reports/recommendations become a mainstay of refuge operations. (Section D.6.)

* Big Game Guide allocation begins for refuge lands. (Section H.8.)

* Bob Schulz is selected to fill the Assistant Refuge Manager position. Bob, his wife Fran and children Barbara, Richard, Charlie, and Tom come to us from the Litchfield WMD. Bob's EOD was April 3. (Section E.l.)

* SCAs, Seasonals, and YCCers swell the refuge staff from 8 to 29 during the summer season. (Sections E.1., E.2., E.4.)

* The refuge hosts a Cooperative Education Student. (Section E.l.) * Special achievement awards are presented to Refuge Manager Steve Breeser, Wildlife Biologist Terry Doyle, Fire Management Officer Larry Vanderlinden, Secretary Melinda Rallo, Maintenanceman Don Carlson, and Biological Technicians Peter Butteri, Elisa Butteri, Hank Timm and Casey Stemler. (Section E.8.)

* YCC program completes another successful year primarily under the guidance of PR Craig Perham. (Section E.2.)

* Refuge mini-review is held by regional office staff. (Section E.8.)

* FMO Vanderlinden participates as a fire behavior analyst with a Type I overhead team on the Kenai NWR Pothole Lake Fire. (Section F.9.)

* Two wildfires are started on the refuge by lightning. The Wellesley Lake fire creates concern for the U.S. Customs station at Port Alcan. (Section F.9.)

* Prescribed fire work is initiated in early fall after a closure on burning for most of the summer. (Section F.9.)

* The first Alaska record of a lark sparrow is made by WB Doyle and BT Stemler. (Section G.l.)

* A record number of trumpeter swans (56) are collared. Although the trumpeter population continues to increase, there is a significant reduction in cygnet production. (Section G.1.)

* Duck production falls off dramatically despite a favorable nesting season. (Section G.l.)

* Large numbers of caribou from the N elchina and Mentasta herds are present during the winter of 1990-91 but only about a third (17-20,000) return for the winter of 1991-92. (Section G.8.)

* Wolf populations continue to increase. (Section G.8.)

* Moose trend data shows declining calf production. (Section G.8.)

* Alaska/Canada border dedication is well attended by officials and gives the refuge a chance to show off the new visitor center. (Section H.1.)

* Refuge continues to develop and test fire and wetlands curriculum for statewide schools. (Section H.2.)

2 * National Wildlife Week is a big success. (Section H.2.)

* A Challenge Grant project with students of the Walter Northway Public School results in the placing of satellite collars on three moose. (Section H.2.)

* Houghton College (New York) ecology class visits refuge and analyzes feasibility of canoe route. (Section H.13.)

* Visitor center sets new attendance records. (Section H.6.)

* A state registration hunt attracts over 800 caribou hunters to refuge lands. (Section H.8.)

* Federally administered subsistence hunts for caribou and moose are held on the refuge. (Section H.8.)

* Refuge office and storage space is doubled in size. (Section I.l.)

* A small lot sale is held at the refuge to unload an accumulation of excess equipment. (Section 1.4.)

3 B. CLIMATIC CONDITIONS

The year started out with temperatures fluctuating like a roller coaster ride on the Refuge. Though not excessively cold, January had extended periods of minus 30 degree temperatures or colder. A record high temperature of 35 degrees was also recorded in January.

February and March, on the other hand, were relatively mild. By the end of March, a total of 16.4 inches of snow had fallen in 1991. April was dry and mild, with no precipitation measured. May continued the mild temperature trend, with 0.8 inches of rain falling during the month.

June was very warm, with temperatures recorded above 85 degrees on the refuge for seven days in a row. A record high temperature of 92 degrees was recorded on June 21. 1.82 inches of rain fell early in the month. By the end of June, very dry conditions and a lightning storm combined to produce significant fire activity.

July cooled down somewhat, but the temperature was higher than 70 degrees on nineteen days out of the month. 2.17 inches of rain late in the month cooled down fire activity considerably.

August started out wet and cool, but by mid-month, a drying and warming trend was occurring. A high of 80 degrees was recorded on August 9. Twelve days saw the temperature rise above 70 degrees. Perhaps the most notable weather event of 1991 occurred on August 17 and 18. An unexpected dry, cold frontal passage over the upper Tanana Valley brought an extended period of high wind and very low humidity. Peak wind gusts were recorded of 47 mph on August 17 and 36 mph on August 18 with relative humidity in the 20's and 30's for a 24 hour period. The result was a significant increase in activity on fires that were burning on the refuge at that time. The first snow since March fell on August 27, with an accumulation of 1/4 inch. The last five days of the month were cool and wet. 2.0 inches of precipitation fell by the end of the month.

September was dry, with only 1.0 inches of precipitation and no snowfall recorded. Gusty winds late in the month caused some damage to one of the refuge's Remote Automatic Weather Stations.

October, November, and December were mild. The coldest temperature for this period was 36 below and the average was a balmy five degrees below zero. The relatively balmy temperatures brought relatively heavy snowfall for the period. A total of 28.6 inches of snow fell from October through December.

Weather observations for the Upper Tanana Valley are summarized in Figure 1 (temperatures) and Figure 2 (precipitation).

4 Figure 1. Temperature ranges by month for 1991 with monthly record high and low temperatures, Northway, Alaska.

88 8~ 79 69 67

48 50 40 35 39 - 30 33 19 4 -6

-36 -42 -56 -55 -64 -72 -71

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC MONTH - 1991 TEMPERATURE RANGE - RECORD HIGHS AND LOWS Figure 2. Precipitation and snowfall by month for 1991, Northway, Alaska. Mean monthly precipitation and snowfall derived from 1949-84 Climatological Summary for Northway, Alaska, AEIDC, University of Alaska.

PRECIPITATION (INCHES) 0 5 10 15 20

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY ::r:: E-

1991 PRECIPITATION (TOTAL= 9.47 IN) - 1991 SNOWFALL(TOTAL=45.25IN) - MEAN PRECIPITATION (TOTAL= 9.81 IN) - MEAN SNOWFALL (TOTAL =33.9 IN)

5 C. LAND ACQUISITION

2. Easements

After nearly two years of effort and frustration, a 20-year easement for a trail access across Louis Frank's native allotment was finalized. This easement will allow public access to Hidden Lake, a popular fishing spot with both local and non-local refuge visitors. The effort started in early 1990 and by the time it was finalized, the refuge staff, the Regional Office reality staff, the Tanana Chiefs Conference, the Bureau of Indian Affairs, and the State's Division of Sport Fish were all deeply involved.

Now that all of the details of the easement across Louis Frank's allotment have finally been worked out, the refuge staff finds itself with the opportunity to work on another access problem involving a native allotment. The major trail that provides access to the interior portion of the refuge was thought to be entirely on Northway Native Corporation land and covered by a 17b easement under the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act of 1972 allowing for public crossing. However, after closer examination, the trail was found to not only cross corporation land, but also to cross a native allotment owned by Julius Sam. Without the 17b easement on the portion of the trail crossing Julius Sam's allotment, public access could legally be denied.

During the State registration caribou hunt in October, the trail was blocked off and access to the interior portion of the refuge was denied. A temporary access was obtained by re-routing the trail across Northway Native Corporation lands to the west of the Sam's allotment. However, during negotiation with the Northway Council it became evident that permission to use this new trail was only temporary and some other means of accessing the interior portion of the refuge needed to be worked out. After examination of a number of alternatives, it appears for the present that a easement allowing access across Julius Sam's land is the most feasible.

6 D. PLANNING

2. Management Plans.

The Public Use Management Plan continued to be redrafted throughout the year as various agency comments and Regional Office reviewers suggested changes. A copy of the redraft was submitted to the Regional Office in January and also provided to Sally Gilbert from the State Division of Governmental Coordination. Those comments received from the State were incorporated into the plan during June. Subsistence information and Section 810 evaluations were completed for the alternatives and impacts sections during July. A second "final" draft was completed for Regional Office internal review in September. Again considerable comments came back for inclusion. The finalization of these step down management plans is taking considerable coordination and patience.

A Spring Waterfowl Enforcement Plan was developed for the refuge to outline 1991 field enforcement and education activities.

WB Doyle revised the lynx study plan, incorporating comments made by Dan Reed of the Alaska Department of Fish and Game.

WB Doyle prepared a study plan for the third and final collection of baseline water quality data related to current and potential placer mining activities.

FMO Vanderlinden prepared the 1991 Annual Fire Management Plan for the refuge. It contained prescriptions for five different prescribed bums and a dispatch plan. It was submitted to the Regional Office and approved in early May.

Subsistence management planning has taken over as a major program for Alaskan Refuges. The refuge staff developed proposed subsistence regulations for the fall hunting seasons and held several coordination meetings/ discussions with representatives of Wrangell/St. Elias National Park/Preserve, Yukon-Charley Rivers National Park/Preserve, Alaska Department of Fish and Game, the Bureau of Land Management, Regional Office Subsistence Division, village councils, and advisory boards to try and get everybody to agree on what was going to take place. Budgetary needs were developed for implementing the program for the year, public information meetings were held and comments on the draft EIS for the Subsistence Management Program were finalized.

7 3. Public Participation

A special subsistence meeting was requested by the village of Tanacross. Federal Subsistence Board Chairman Curt McVee and Subsistence Specialist Sue Detwiler were guest speakers along with the Alaska Department of Fish and Game's District Supervisor Chris Smith and Alaska Division of Wildlife Protection Captain Gilson. Representatives from the area villages and the Tanana Chiefs Conference were present at the meeting. The proposed Federal Subsistence Program and Regulations were discussed. After this discussion, the focus point of the meeting changed direction with much frustration and anger being directed at the State Division of Wildlife Protection and their personnel.

Public hearings on the proposed Federal Subsistence Program and Environmental Impact Statement were held in Northway and Tok. Dick Marshall (FWS), Sue Detwiler (FWS), Janice Meldrum (NPS), and John Payne (BLM) conducted the two hearings. A total of sixty-seven people attended the hearings. Both hearings were very positive in nature with a good cross-section of ideas regarding the Federal Subsistence Program being expressed. In addition, over one hundred and fifty summaries of the draft EIS were mailed to residents of Northway, Tanacross, Tetlin, Slana, and Tok. Recipients of the document were encouraged to provide comments either at one of the scheduled hearings or by writing directly to the Federal Subsistence Board.

8 )

Subsistence Specialist Dick Marshall conducts one of two public hearings on the proposed Federal Subsistence Program and Environmental Impact Statement. TNWR-3, 10-91, SWB

5. Research and Investigations

Winter and summer movements and predation rates of a wolves on the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska. WB Doyle digitized winter wolf locations and calculated home range areas in the Regional Office April 22-26. Jerry Minick from the Information Resources Management branch and Chris Robbins from Research provided invaluable assistance. Final results of this study await publishing.

) 9 Impacts of placer mining on the aquatic resources of the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. The goal of this study is to quantify baseline levels of water quality in the various rivers and streams on the refuge. BT Hank Timm entered all data (1987-89) into a DBase IV program developed by the Ecological Services Office in Fairbanks and generated summary tables. A study proposal for the third and final year of field sampling in 1992 was submitted on June 10.

Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge DDT Study. The goal of this study is to evaluate the need/feasibility of a cleanup of asphalt barrel dump sites near Northway, and adjacent to Moose Creek, where wastes were previously stored or dumped. Tissue and soil/ sediment samples collected in 1990 from sites along Moose Creek and from barrel dumps found in the area were shipped to Texas A&M University for analysis on February 20. Test results were received on May 29. Data entry awaits finalization of a DBase IV software program.

Kennebec fire monitoring. Work on this fire effects investigation continued in 1991 with the annual completion of winter track counts to monitor the response of furbearers and small mammals to the 1982 Kennebec wildfire. (For further discussion and data analysis see F.3)

Fuel Consumption Study. A research team from the USFS Pacific Northwest Forest and Range Experiment Station were invited to the refuge in August. The team was in Alaska to undertake fuel and duff consumption studies resulting from fire. The effort is part of a large project involving the global warming issue. Prebum transects were set up on Unit 2 of the proposed Chisana Prescribed Burn. Due to other fire activity on the refuge, the unit was not ignited in 1991. The team is expected to return to the refuge in 1992 if weather conditions permit ignition of the planned prescribed burn.

The feasibility of conducting a singular duck brood survey. The third and final year of field work was completed on this project. The primary objective was to determine whether a single duck brood survey could provide an adequate depiction of waterfowl brood productivity. Overall, only 20% more duck broods were counted in two surveys compared to one (Table 1). Correction factors were calculated for use with the single survey, and were highest for the earliest (mallard, northern pintail) and latest (scaup, ring-necked duck) nesting species. Most annual differences in correction factors could be attributed to survey timing. We concluded that accounting for the additional20% of the broods is not worth expending twice the effort. We are planning on conducting only one brood survey in the future. However, timing criteria still need to be perfected. WB Doyle presented the results of this study at the Alaska Bird Conference and Workshop in Anchorage on November 22.

10 Table 1. Correction factors applied to a singular survey to equal counts from 2 reconciled surveys on the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge.

Correction Factor Species 1989 1990 1991 Mean s

Green-winged teal 0.73 1.12 1.06 0.97 0.21 Mallard 1.71 1.73 1.60 1.68 0.07 Northern pintail 1.00 3.25 3.00 2.42 1.23 Blue-winged teal 1.00 0.00 0.00 0.33 0.58 Northern shoveler 1.00 0.50 n/a 0.75 0.35 American wigeon 0.81 1.00 1.09 0.97 0.14

Total dabblers 0.90 1.29 1.17 1.12 0.20

Canvasback 1.29 0.50 0.67 0.82 0.42 Ring-necked duck 1.64 1.05 1.23 1.31 0.30 Scaup 1.26 1.75 0.95 1.32 0.40 Surf scoter 1.00 1.33 1.00 1.11 0.19 White-winged scoter 1.00 0.67 n/a 5.83 7.30 Goldeneye spp. 1.00 1.20 1.00 1.07 0.16 Bufflehead 0.80 1.19 1.14 1.04 0.21

Total diver I sea ducks 1.30 1.37 1.05 1.24 0.17

Total ducks 1.13 1.34 1.10 1.19 0.13

Refinement of duck brood surveys for Alaska Region. Refuge staff continued working on the effort to standardize state-wide duck brood production surveys. A meeting was held February 21-22 to discuss the progress of several work groups and studies. Results thus far look promising. A progress report on the single survey study that was conducted on Tetlin NWR was presented by WB Doyle. Refuge staff surveyed three sample units for the state-wide survey between July 29 and August 2. Because of the large size of the survey area relative to the refuge, only one sample unit falls within the boundary of the refuge.

11 A live-captured lynx is measured by National Park Service Biologists Bill Route and Sue Mills. This is part of a cooperative project with the National Park Service and Alaska Department of Fish and Game. TNWR-4, 4-91, HKT

Mortality factors, home range characteristics, and habitat preferences of lynx in Game Management Unit 12. The goal of this study is to gather baseline data on the lynx population that inhabits the refuge and the adjacent Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. This study was prompted by lower than expected lynx numbers in the area and is a cooperative project with the National Park Service and Alaska Department of Fish and Game. Ten additional lynx were live trapped and radio collared in the spring (February 28-April 15) and 3 were captured with the aid of dogs in the fall (October 14-17). A total of 15 lynx have been captured and radio collared in the two years of the study (Table 2).

) 12 Table 2. Fate of radio-collared lynx on the Jatahmund lake study area as of December 31, 1991, Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge.

Fate Number Percentage

Capture Mortality 1 7 Dispersed -Trapped 2 13 - illegally Trapped 1 7 Radio Dead 1 7 Dispersed or Radio Malfunction 2 13 Alive and Transmitting 8 53

Total 15 100

Estimated rate of dispersal ranged between 20% and 33% depending on whether two lynx emigrated from the study area or their radio collars malfunctioned (Table 2). It is believed that some of those that dispersed are actually transient lynx from Canada. Much of the Yukon Territory is experiencing a rapid decline in snowshoe hare abundance.

Home range size for five male lynx averaged 170 km2 while home ranges of two 2 females averaged 44 km • These are relatively large ranges for lynx and are an indication of a low density snowshoe hare population. Pellet counts which were conducted for the second year also point toward low snowshoe hare density.

The number of lynx harvested by trappers in Game Management Unit (GMU) 12 surrounding the study area increased for the first time in 8 years. The percent kittens in the harvest (23.7%) is close to that which is typically observed in an expanding population (>30%). However, winter surveys within the study area showed a decrease in lynx tracks for the third year.

Harvested lynx carcasses were used to estimate an age structure of the lynx population in GMU 12. The age structure was found to be 28% kittens, 48% yearlings, 20% 2-year-olds, and 4% 3-year-olds within GMU 12. Kittens appeared to be under-represented in our live-captured sample. The sex ratio of lynx harvested by fur trappers in GMU 12 was nearly 50:50 while the sex ratio of our live-captured lynx was skewed towards males in all age classes.

13 A Research Work Order was established with the Alaska Cooperative Wildlife Research Unit for a graduate student to work on the project. Craig Perham entered on as a graduate student in August and will begin field work early in 1992.

Specially trained dogs were used to tree lynx in October so that they could be captured and radio collared. Three lynx were radio collared in four days using this method. TNWR-5, 10-91, JR

) 14 Brood visibility, survival, movements and plumage class development relative to brood surveys. This approved study plan was not funded for the second year in a row. The goal of the study is to refine various aspects of the brood survey as they are currently conducted.

6. Other

The Office Automation Plan was developed in February by FMO Vanderlinden and submitted to the Regional Office for review. It was further revised and updated in August. The refuge Telecommunication Plan was developed in November, incorporated into the Office Automation Plan, and re-submitted to the Regional Office for approval. The entire package finally received approval late in the year. A considerable amount of time was spent by FMO Vanderlinden in preparing these plans and they have aided in justifying the purchase of much needed computer hardware, software, and radio systems.

15 E. ADMINISTRATION

1. Personnel

1. Steve W. Breeser, Refuge Manager, GS 12/4, EOD 1/31/88, PFT

2. Robert A. Schulz, Assistant Refuge Manager, GS 11/7, EOD 4/03/91, transferred from Litchfield Wetland Management District, Litchfield, Minnesota, PFT

3. Terrence J. Doyle, Wildlife Biologist, GS 11/2, EOD 5/29/88, PFT

4. Larry A. Vanderlinden, Fire Management Officer, GS 11/5, EOD 4/24/88, PFT

5. David A. Dapkus, Park Ranger, GS 11/8, EOD 11/18/90, PFT

6. William K. Bohman, Airplane Pilot, GS 12/3, EOD 6/6/88, PFT, Local Hire

7. Melinda J. Rallo, Refuge Secretary, GS 5/3, EOD 4/24/88, PFT, Local Hire

8. Don B. Carlson, Maintenanceman (Carpenter), WG 9/1, EOD 6/25/90, PFT Local Hire

9. Craig J. Perham, Park Ranger, GS 6/1, 2/10/91 - 9/08/91, TFT

10. Elisa Butteri, Biological Technician, GS 5/1, 4/21/91- 9/22/91, TFT

11. Peter Butteri, Biological Technician, GS 5/1, 5/20/90- 9/23/90, TFT, Local Hire

12. Mike Cronk, Park Ranger, GS 4/1, 5/19/91 - 8/25/91, TFT, Local Hire

13. Cora Demit, Park Ranger, GS 6/1, 5/19/91 - 9/08/91, TFT, Local Hire

14. Verda Paul, Park Ranger, GS 4/1, 5/19/91- 9/08/91, TFT, Local Hire

15. Casey Stemler, Biological Technician, GS 5/1, 7/16/91 - 8/16/91, TFT

16. Henry Timm, Biological Technician, GS 5/1, 3/24/91 - 9/23/91, TFT, Local Hire

17. Jeffery Melegria, Student Trainee (Biology), GS-4/1, 6/17/91 - 9/20/91, Co-op Student, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon

16 Refuge Manager Steve Breeser, TNWR-6 )

Assistant Refuge Manager Bob Schulz, TNWR-7

) I 17 )

Refuge Secretary Melinda Rallo, TNWR-8

) I 18 Wildlife Biologist Terry Doyle, TNWR-9

)

Fire Management Officer Larry Vanderlinden, TNWR-10

) f 19 Park Ranger Dave Dapkus, TNWR-11

)

Pilot Bill Bohman, TNWR-12 ) 20 I )

Maintenanceman (Carpenter) Don Carlson, TNWR-13

) / _./ 21 Park Ranger Craig Perham, TNWR-14

I ) 22 )

Biological Technician Elisa Butteri, TNWR-15

) f 23 )

Biological Technician Peter Butteri, TNWR-16

24 )

Biological Technician Casey Stemmler, TNWR-17

) f 25 Biological Technician Hank Timm, TNWR-18

)

Park Ranger Verda Paul, TNWR-19

f ) 26 )

)

Student Trainee (Biology) Jeff Melegria, TNWR-20

I 27 In 1991, the permanent staff was brought back to full strength when Robert Schulz, the Assistant Wetland Manager from the Litchfield Wetland Management District, Litchfield Minnesota, was selected for the vacant Assistant Refuge Manager position.

PR Craig Perham returned to duty in early February to help with the lynx study and public use program. He was instrumental in making the National Wildlife Week blitz a large success. Craig took over the helm of the YCC program in June for the fourth consecutive year.

BT Hank Timm returned to duty in late March to help with the lynx and contaminants studies. Hank also contributed to the telemetry, swan, waterfowl, and raptor studies.

Temporary employees and volunteers swelled the ranks of the refuge staff from 8 to 29 during the summer field season. In late April, BT Elisa Butteri and BT Peter Butteri returned to duty to work in the refuge fire management program. In late May, PR Cora Demit, a local hire, was hired to supervise day-to-day operations at the visitor center. PR Mike Cronk and PR Verda Paul returned to duty in late May to help with the operations at the visitor center.

BT Casey Stemler was hired to assist with the raptor, waterfowl and swan studies. Casey was a Student Conservation Association volunteer in 1990.

Student Trainee (Biology) Jeff Melegari was assigned to the refuge in mid-June. Jeff is in the coop program at Oregon State University majoring in fisheries. Jeff was assigned numerous tasks to give him an overall view of the refuge operations. He was instrumental in overseeing the Nature Day Camp and making it a success.

Table 3. Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge Staffing FY 1988-92.

FISCAL PERM TEMP TOTAL YCC VOL LOCAL YEAR FT PT FTE HIRE

92 7(2) 1(1) 8(6) 10.8 6 10 9 91 7(2) 1(1) 8(5) 10.8 6 10 8 90 7(2) 1(1) 8(5) 10.7 6 9 8 89 7(2) 7(5) 9.2 6 5 6 88 7(2) 7(2) 7.8 6 2 4

Total FTE includes local hire time Number within ()equals number of local hires.

28 2. Youth Programs

1. Kenneth Felix 6/3/91 - 7/28/91 2. Mark Forkner 6/3/91 - 7/28/91 3. Willy James 6/3/91 - 7/28/91 4. Sharon McBride 6/3/91 - 7/28/91 5. Clayton Sam 6/3/91 - 7/28/91 6. Jason Torres 6/3/91 - 7/28/91

The Youth Conservation Corps (YCC) again proved valuable to the refuge. All six youths stayed with the program for the entire season. Four youths from the village of Northway and two from the community of Tok worked for the refuge during the summer. Sharon McBride assisted Refuge Secretary Melinda Rallo at the refuge headquarters office by meeting/ greeting visitors, answering telephones, inputing data in the computer, and filing documents. With PR Perham providing leadership, the five young men finished the "Taiga Trail" nature trail at Deadman Lake campground and helped construct an observation deck on the shore of Deadman Lake. Visitors enjoyed this addition throughout the rest of the summer. YCCers also helped construct a kiosk at Deadman Lake campground, which serves to provide the public with information about the refuge. The YCCers maintained and cleaned all six highway interpretive turnouts, Deadman Lake and Lake View campgrounds, and the day use area at Deadman Lake, helping to insure a pleasant stay for visitors to the refuge.

1991 was the ninth year in which Tetlin NWR has used the YCC program. It has been extremely beneficial, not only as an excellent public relations tool for the communities of Tok and Northway, but also as an important employment opportunity for the kids. Teenagers, especially in Northway where there are only a handful of jobs available, rely on our YCC positions for summer work. Our positions have doubled the summer job market for teens the past three years. The Northway school is fairly small and it is a nice feeling to know that almost all of the upperclass students have gone through the YCC program at one time or another.

29 )

Refuge Secretary Melinda Rallo (left) and Park Ranger Craig Perham (right) with YCC enrollees left to right Sharon McBride, Jason Torres, Willy James, Mark Forkner, Kenneth Felix and Clayton Sam, TNWR-21

4. Volunteer Program

The volunteer program has become an essential part of refuge operations, especially in the public use program. Without these volunteers many of the summer season interpretive activities would be curtailed or not exist. People entering Alaska and travelling along the Alaska Highway would have less opportunity to learn about the refuge's and State's natural resources. In 1991, volunteers donated over 3322 hours of service to the refuge (Table 4).

) 30 Table 4. Volunteer Hours Donated to the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, 1986-91.

ACTIVITY 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991

Maintenance 40 40 192 224 Biological support 472 320 368 Interpretive programs 640 880 2400 2688 2574 Educational programs 144 100 98 132 Administrative support 32 80 24

TOTALS 544 960 1104 2540 2978 3322

The Student Conservation Association (SCA) assistant program has consistently provided qualified and enthusiastic people for volunteer service at our remote location over the past four years. The SCA program has proven cost effective in comparison with other volunteer organizations. Our six volunteers this year came from across the nation- Florida, New York, Illinois, Rhode Island, California, and Ohio - each bringing varied skills, a keen interests in wildlife and its management, and the desire to experience Mother Nature through working on the refuge. This year the SCAs provided over 2900 hours of work to the refuge providing interpretive information at the Visitor Center, giving nature talks at Deadman Lake campground, and showing wildlife films at the Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Tok. Their robust energies were also used to provide assistance with Nature Camps, the biological program, and to help in the construction of a visitor information kiosk at Deadman Lake campground.

31 )

)

SCA Volunteers (top row left to right) Ryan Means, Aviva Maller, Josh Halberg, Jamie Plant, (bottom row left to right) Melanie Woodward and Jodi Meusel, TNWR-22

Volunteer efforts of parents, and friends from the local communities greatly assisted us in preparing and teaching several of our environmental education programs. These programs included Nature Activity Day, Nature Day Camps and National Wildlife Week.

5. Funding

It is very possible that FY91 was the last year in which we will see substantial increases in base funding for awhile. FY92 brought some major cuts and the refuge was required to give considerably more justification to retain what was proposed. The $49,000 decrease in 1260 funding is actually a much deeper cut of the base

) / 32 because of increases in fixed costs. Higher fixed costs such as salary and facility rent increases had to be absorbed along with the cut. The increase in fire funding will allow the refuge to carry out our burning program at a slightly increased level. It will also allow us to conduct further studies in the previously burned sites and allow us to upgrade our equipment. Planned wildlife inventory studies took the biggest cut with over a 50% reduction. Table 5 shows the funding history for the refuge for the past five fiscal years.

Table 5. Funding history for Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, FY 1988-92

FY FTE* 1260 1240 9100 8610 TOTAL

92 6.2 798 210 24.0 1,034.0 91 6.5 847 142 33.0 1,022.0 90 6.3 712 104 34.5 850.5 89 6.4 585 34.5 619.5 88 5.8 555 36.5 591.5

*Does not include Local Hire personnel

6. Safety

Safety is placed at the highest priority for all staff members including permanent, temporary and volunteers. All are expected to maintain a safety conscious attitude whenever and wherever they are working. This attitude was again demonstrated in 1991 as there were no lost time accidents. We like to think that our active and aggressive training program has a lot to do with this. The refuge has now compiled 3550 days without a lost time accident.

Monthly safety meetings were held for all staff, with a rotational schedule for staff presentations. Topics in 1991 included seat belt usage, save your back, aircraft safety, home fires, boating safety, and bear avoidance.

33 )

J

A week-long employee orientation/ safety training workshop was held during the first week of the summer field season. TNWR-23, 5-91, SWB

In June, the refuge held a week long employee orientation/safety training workshop for all staff members, including volunteers and the YCC crew. The training utilizes a variety of presentations including staff briefings, videos, and professional trainers. Training topics included:

1. Refuge Safety and Administration 2. Defensive Driving 3. Sexual Harassment 4. First Aid/CPR Training 5. Bear Safety 6. Aircraft Safety 7. Boating Safety 8. Radio Usage 9. Shotgun/Rifle Handling and Safety

f ) 34 Holli McClain, Outdoor Recreation Specialist with BLM, conducted the First Aid and CPR training. Holli is a Red Cross certified instructor. In return the BLM's seasonal staff sat in on the boating and bear safety portion of the orientation workshop. FWS Special Agent and Fire Arms Trainer Mark Webb made an excellent presentation on gun handling and bear safety.

All of the refuge's water wells were tested for contaminates. All tests were below the maximum acceptable levels set by EPA and the State agencies for public drinking water. In addition to the normal or routine tests, the Northway bunkhouse well was tested for petroleum contaminants since several surrounding groundwater sources have been contaminated with fuel oil. These tests showed no contamination by any petroleum products.

The FM radio coverage of the refuge was further enhanced with the installation of UHF mobile units in three of the refuge residences. This will enable field crews to have communication with refuge staff at anytime of the day or night encase an emergency may arise.

Regional Engineer and Safety Officer conducted a station safety inspection. Only minor infractions or safety problems were found during the inspection. These were readily corrected during the following week.

Two Savage and one Mossberg 12-gauge shotguns that were used primarily for bear protection were replaced with three Remington Model 870 12-gauge shotguns. It was felt that during a stressful bear encounter one should not be hindered as to where the gun's safety release is located or how the gun operates. Field crews now have only one of two choices of guns that they must carry when in the field, either a .375 H&H Whitworth rifle or a 12-gauge Remington shotgun. Two of the shotguns where fitted with youth size stocks and forearms to provide a better fit for the smaller framed people. Summer field crews are required to carry a loaded firearm for bear protection at all times when in the field.

In May Pilot Bohman attended an Emergency Maneuver Training course in Santa Paula, California. The course primarily dealt with aircraft recovery from unusual attitudes that might be encountered while flying Service missions. A great deal of time was spent learning to recognize stall and spin characteristics in various aircraft configurations, and learning to right the aircraft from inverted flight. All of the maneuvers learned were great confidence builders for Pilot Bohman. He developed the confidence and skill necessary to safely recover the aircraft from a variety of unusual predicaments that he might be confronted with during refuge flying missions.

35 7. Technical Assistance

During the year, the refuge staff provided considerable expertise to a wide variety of local and regional groups. These contacts included:

a. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park/Preserve for trumpeter swan, moose, wolf, and caribou monitoring. b. Alaska Department of Fish and Game for management and enforcement of moose, caribou, and wolves. We also gave recommendations on State season and bag limits for several wildlife species and coordinated federal subsistence seasons. c. Northway Natives, Inc. for land exchange, enforcement, and land status information. d. Tetlin Native Corporation for wildlife and subsistence use information. e. Gateway School District on moose telemetry programs and outdoor classroom site selection. f. Tok Fish and Game Advisory Committee on game and fish populations and refuge operations, and subsistence regulations. g. Alaska Interagency Visitor Center Committee on the development of an interagency interpretive stop at the Alaska-Yukon border. h. Alaska Department of Natural Resources on fire planning and equipment and personnel assistance. i. Alaska State Troopers on law enforcement. j. U.S. Customs and Immigration on importation and Federal Game Laws. k. Waterfowl Investigations- Juneau, on waterfowl populations in the Upper Tanana Valley. 1. Tok Chamber of Commerce on the Tetlin NWR "I&R Program" and Project 92. m. Bureau of Land Management on subsistence regulations. n. Bureau of Land Management/ Alaska Fire Service- responded to a request for FMO Vanderlinden to function as Fire Behavior Analyst on a Class I overhead team on the Pothole Lake Fire. o. WB Doyle assisted the Yukon Delta National Wildlife refuge in conducting bristle-thighed curlew surveys from May 19-28. p. Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve on subsistence regulations. q. State of Alaska Department of Education regarding a fire ecology activity for Project Wild.

8. Other Items

As a result of a 1989 lawsuit ruling that determined the State of Alaska was not in compliance with the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA), the Fish and Wildlife Service took over responsibility of game management on refuge

36 lands. In addition, the Service was given the task of being the lead agency to administer the regulation development process for implementing hunting seasons on all federal lands in Alaska. This single act placed a tremendous workload on the field staff at the refuge level to analyze current existing regulations and develop new regulations to implement federal hunts to provide for subsistence needs.

The dual management perspective for wildlife in Alaska has been and will continue to be a challenging experience. Issues including disjointed land ownership, pending rural determinations, customary and traditional use determinations, duplicate hunting regulations, and law enforcement will have to worked out. The State/Federal working relationship still appears to be holding up adequately at the field level. It would be an understatement to say that the hunters were confused. Luckily they are a traditional lot and pretty much did what they were accustomed to doing as in past years.

WB Doyle continued as a member of the Regional Office workgroup developing standard operating procedures for the statewide waterfowl brood production survey.

FMO Vanderlinden functioned as an instructor at the FWS fire course "Fire Management for Line Officers" presented in Harper's Ferry, West Virginia.

PR Perham and FMO Vanderlinden provided considerable assistance to the Regional Office in the development of fact sheets on fire management and also for curriculum development regarding the role of fire in Alaska.

RM Breeser was one of several project leaders selected to review I evaluate aspects of the Maintenance Management System and base maintenance funding.

FMO Vanderlinden taught Intermediate Fire Behavior (S-390) to BT Peter Butteri and BT Elisa Butteri for university credit.

FMO Vanderlinden was recertified as a CPR instructor.

FMO Vanderlinden conducted a review of the Koyukuk/Nowitna Refuge fire management program.

FMO Vanderlinden served as an instructor at a US Forest Service sponsored fire course for Division Supervisors in Redmond, Oregon.

WB Doyle submitted a manuscript entitled "Brood chronology and the implications for duck production surveys" to the Regional Office for review and then submission to the Wildlife Society Bulletin.

37 WB Doyle gave a presentation on the results of a summer wolf predation study at the 2nd Northern Wolf Research and Management Workshop which was held in Tok.

PR Craig Perham was officially selected to be the graduate student working on the refuge lynx study.

A mini-station review was held on August 13-14, by Ed Merritt and Daryle Lons from the Regional Office (RW).

An administrative review was conducted on August 19-20, by Jo Gorder from the Regional Office (CGS).

PR Dapkus gave three presentations on some of our refuge programs at a region wide environmental education workshop held in Anchorage.

RM Breeser participated in a workgroup that drafted a new Region 7 policy for the educational program regarding the Spring waterfowl harvest that occurs in Alaska.

WB Doyle presented two papers at the Alaska Bird Conference titled "The expansion of trumpeter swans in the Upper Tanana valley, Alaska" and "The potential for using a single survey to estimate duck production in Alaska".

RM Breeser participated in a workgroup that drafted a new Region 7 policy for commercial big game guiding on refuges in Alaska.

Special achievement awards were received by nine staff members during the year. Awards were presented to Refuge Manager Steve Breeser, Wildlife Biologist Terry Doyle, Refuge Secretary Melinda Rallo, Fire Management Officer Larry Vanderlinden, Maintenanceman Don Carlson and seasonal Biological Technicians Casey Stemler, Hank Timm, Peter Butteri and Elisa Butteri for their excellent contributions to the refuge program.

38 F. HABITAT MANAGEMENT

1. General.

The Refuge's Comprehensive Conservation Plan has identified three basic levels of habitat management--intensive, moderate and minimal. Areas designated for an intensive level of management allow for mechanical habitat manipulation, substantial prescribed burning and water level manipulation to restore and maintain habitat for selected species such as moose, furbearers and waterfowl. Areas designated for a moderate level of management allow for habitat manipulation on a site-specific basis to restore targeted wildlife habitat. Areas designated for a minimal level of management level emphasize natural influence on habitat, although prescribed burning is allowed. In actuality, viable, cost-effective habitat management alternatives available to the refuge are limited.

Periodic fire and flooding are the two most important factors which have shaped the diversity of habitats present on Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. Presently fire is the most cost effective management tool to date that is available to enhance habitat on the refuge.

To enhance planning for habitat manipulation and management, an accurate ownership map is essential. A consolidated and updated 1 inch= 1 mile ownership map was prepared in 1991 and a master index and database will be incorporated with the map in 1992.

Over 100,000 acres of refuge lands have been altered by fire, flooding, highway construction and facility development, since color infrared imagery currently utilized by the refuge staff was taken. A contract tentatively awarded in 1991 for updated aerial photography was not finalized due to lack of suitable weather conditions. A request for bids will be re-submitted to the Regional Office in 1992.

2. Wetlands.

Water levels on the refuge were within normal ranges during 1991. Precipitation, spring runoff and glacier melt occurred gradually enough to minimize flooding.

9. Fire Management.

The Refuge has an active and aggressive fire management program. A strong emphasis is placed on public education and information and is discussed in Section H.2. Full access to the local press is taken advantage of with periodic articles written by the refuge staff to inform the public on fire management activities on the refuge. Interpretive information about fire management is provided to the public by the refuge staff at the refuge visitor center, the Alaska Public Land Information Center in

39 Tok, and at two displays adjacent to the refuge along the Alaska Highway.

Wildfire management and prescribed fire management activities on the refuge are a team effort and are participated in by most of the refuge staff every summer. Table 6 summarizes refuge staff involvement in fire management training, wildfire management and prescribed fire management activities in 1991.

Table 6. Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge staff involvement in fire management activities for 1991.

Name Dates Assignment

FMO Vanderlinden 1-15 to 1-17 Instructor at FWS Fire Management For Line Officers Course, Harpers Ferry WV 4-29 to 5-3 Instructor at USFS Division Supervisor Course, Redmond, Oregon 5-22 to 5-31 Fire Behavior Analyst on Pothole Lake Fire, Kenai NWR, Alaska 6-1 to 6-9 Assisted NPS in developing RX-91 Course at Sequoia NP, California 6-24 Assisted Tok Area Forestry developing EFSA for Island Lake Fire, State of Alaska 6-21 to 8-17 Periodic surveillance of Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 7-30 to 9-3 Periodic surveillance of Black Hills Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 8-18 to 8-29 Resource Advisor to overhead team on Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 9-4 Prescribed Burn Boss on Chisana Prescribed Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska

BT Peter Butteri 5-28 to 5-31 Attended Helicopter Manager Course, Fairbanks, Alaska 6-14 to 6-21 Helispot Manager on Anderson Fire, State of Alaska 6-28 to 7-2 Cabin Protection, Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 6-21 to 8-17 Periodic surveillance of Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 7-30 to 9-3 Periodic surveillance of Black Hills Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 8-18 to 8-29 Engine crewman on Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 9-4 Ignition specialist on Chisana Prescribed Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska

BT Elisa Butteri 5-28 to 5-31 Attended Helicopter Manager Course, Fairbanks, Alaska 6-14 to 6-21 Helispot Manager on Anderson Fire, State of Alaska 6-28 to 7-2 Cabin Protection, Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 6-21 toS-17 Periodic surveillance of Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 7-30 to 9-3 Periodic surveillance of Black Hills Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 8-18 toS-29 Engine crewman on Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 9-4 Ignition specialist on Chisana Prescribed Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska

PR Craig Perham 6-28 to 7-2 Cabin Protection, Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska

Pilot Bill Bohman 6-21 to 8-17 Periodic aerial surveillance of Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska 7-30 to 9-3 Periodic aerial surveillance of Black Hills Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska

WB Terry Doyle 7-1 to 8-15 Occasional aerial surveillance of Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska

RM Steve Breeser 8-18 to 8-29 Guidance for EFSA and rehab on Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, Alaska

ARM Bob Schulz 8-18 to 8-29 Wrote rehab plan and provided monitoring on Wellesley Fire, Tetlin NWR, AK

While the primary objective of wildfire management is cost-effective protection, management actions on most wildfires on the refuge are compatible with refuge habitat management goals of wildlife habitat enhancement and the sustenance of biodiversity.

40 Drought indices developed in Canada have been adopted for use in Alaska for fire management planning purposes, since indices in the National Fire Danger Rating System have not been validated for interior Alaska fuel types. The refuge preparedness plan utilizes the Canadian Forest Fire Danger Rating System Buildup Index (BUI). This index is a representation of duff available as fuel in a flaming fire front, and the relative dryness of subsurface fuels which respond to seasonal precipitation trends. Duff moisture is an important factor influencing frontal fire intensity and resistance to control in the northern boreal forest ecosystem. The refuge preparedness plan designates a BUI reading of 90 as the threshold above which no prescribed burns will be initiated. Figure 3 illustrates the buildup index for the summer derived from weather observations collected by one of the refuge Remote Automatic Weather Stations. As noted on the graph, significant activity on the Wellesley fire coincided with the BUI rising above 90.

Figure 3. Buildup Index plotted with rainfall show the drying trends for the 1991 fire season. The weather observations were obtained from the Jatahmund RAWS, Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge.

CANADIAN DROUGHT INDEX USED FOR FIRE MGMT PLANNING data derived from Tetlin NWR RAWS 140 r/) Ul BUIOF 90 - 0.9 ::!1 120 - .. .. LIMIT FOR PRESCRlBED BURNING u ,--.._ - 0.8 ~ 5 100 - ~ ti:l . .. - 0.7 '-' . . r/) J p::: ~ . 0.6 Ul 80 - .. ~Wellesley Fire ignited . - ~€ - ::!1 Q ...... • • • ellesley Fire flareup '

41 )

Black spruce are common over much of the refuge and have an abundance of dead, lichen-covered lower branches which can readily carry a low intensity surface fire into the tree crowns. TNWR-24, 5-91, LAV

) 42 Wildfire Management Activities.

Wildfire management activities on the refuge continue to take place within the scope of the Alaska Interagency Fire Management Plan and Refuge Fire Management Plan. The Alaska Interagency Fire Management Plan covers all fire-prone federal, state and private lands in Alaska. The plan was developed jointly by state and federal suppression and land management agencies with the following objectives:

1) Aggressive and continued suppression action will be taken on fires which threaten human life, private property, and man-made developments.

2) Levels of fire suppression and dollars spent on fighting fires should be commensurate with the value of the resources warranting protection.

3) Selection of fire management options will optimize the ability of the landowners/managers to achieve their individual management objectives for lands and resources they administer.

The interagency plan provides for a range of suppression responses to wildfires. The plan specifies which areas receive which type of response. There are four distinct response zones delineated--critical, full, modified and limited.

Inhabited and developed areas are designated as critical response zones. These areas receive the highest priority of protection from wildfires and the most aggressive suppression effort. Undeveloped privately owned lands and areas with high resource values that require fire protection are designated as full response zones and also receive aggressive suppression action.

Modified response zones are of a lower priority where minimizing acreage burned is not a primary objective. Wildfires within this zone do require more aggressive suppression action than those in limited response zones during the peak of the fire season. Wildfires occurring in modified response zones may only receive low intensity suppression action such as indirect attack. Modified response zones can also serve as buffers between full response and limited response zones. After a designated date, usually late in the fire season, modified response zones are normally converted to limited response.

Limited response zones are designated in remote areas where values at risk do not justify the expense of aggressive suppression or where fire has been identified as a desirable natural phenomenon by the land manager. Wildfires in these zones may only receive a surveillance response. A surveillance response is appropriate only as long as the fire in question does not threaten to encroach into higher priority areas or does not cause major smoke problems. Surveillance is considered a suppression

43 response. Surveillance activities include detailed mapping of the fire perimeter, mapping of fire fuels in the path of the fire, measuring and describing current fire behavior, developing predictions of fire behavior and fire spread based on observed and predicted weather, identification of any resources which may potentially be threatened by the fire, and providing recommendations for future action.

The map presented in Figure 4 shows wildfire suppression zones, wildfires locations, and prescribed fires for 1991.

< < 0 < rJ) z :::> < 0

TETLIN NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE I 0 10 20 Miles SCALE I

KEY IZJ C CRITICAL RESPONSE ZONE 1 1!1 F FULL RESPONSE ZONE • M MODIFIED RESPONSE ZONE 0 L UMITED RESPONSE ZONE .-.1 WELLESLEY FIRE .-. 2 CHISANA PRESCRIBED BURN, BLACK HILLS FIRE • 3 TRAIL LAKE BURN SITE • 4 TSOLMUND LAKE BURN SITE

Figure 4. Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge Map showing wildfire suppression zones, wildfire locations and prescribed burn sites for 1991.

44 Within the administrative boundaries of Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, a critical response zone is located around the village of Northway. A full response zone covers most private inholdings adjacent to the village. Modified response zones are designated along the Alaska Highway and as a buffer adjacent to full response zones. Approximately 80% of refuge-owned land is designated as limited response.

In Alaska, the Bureau of Land Management has been given authority to provide suppression services for wildfires occurring on Department of Interior lands as delineated in 910 DM Chapter 3. The Bureau of Land Management, Alaska Fire Service basically serves as a fire department for all federal lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management, the Bureau of Indian Affairs, Fish & Wildlife Service, and the National Park Service. Land managers retain the ultimate responsibility for all fire management activities occurring on their respective lands. This approach effectively reduces duplication and redundancy of suppression resources, and was formulated after the Alaska National Interest Land Conservation Act of 1980 resulted in a much more complex federal ownership and land management mosaic in the state.

The State of Alaska has entered into a cooperative agreement with the Bureau of Land Management to provide suppression services for some federal lands in Alaska in exchange for Bureau protection of some state lands. This aligns protection services with locations of state and federal suppression resources such as field stations and area/ district headquarters. Tetlin NWR is in one of the areas for which the State of Alaska provides fire suppression services under this agreement. This arrangement requires close cooperation between the refuge, the State of Alaska and the Bureau of Land Management, Alaska Fire Service. It works largely due to the successful implementation of the Interagency Fire Management Plan and good communication between the involved agencies.

Two wildfires occurred on Tetlin NWR during the 1991 fire season. On June 21, a fire was ignited by lightning near the north shore of American Wellesley Lake. This fire, named the Wellesley fire, was located in a limited response zone. Suppression action was limited to frequent monitoring and precautionary cabin protection measures on the refuge administrative cabin located across the lake from the fire. By the end of June, the Wellesley fire had grown to 2400 acres, but did not threaten to escape confinement within the limited response zone. By the end of July, the fire had burned 3500 acres. Sporadic rain had reduced the fire to only a few scattered hotspots.

45 View of Wellesley fire taken from American Wellesley Lake in July. TNWR-25, 7-91, CP

) ,I f 46 )

FMO Vanderlinden briefing tourists about the Wellesley fire (visible in the background) at the refuge visitor center. TNWR-26, 8-91, DAD

Two weeks of dry weather in early August caused a gradual increase in activity on the Wellesley fire. However, no significant acreage increases occurred through August 16. On August 17, an occluded front was forecast to pass through the upper Tanana Valley. This front unexpectedly brought dry air and high winds along with it. Customs authorities notified the refuge late in the afternoon that the port of entry was experiencing smoke and ash fallout. The State of Alaska dispatched engine strike teams including the refuge fire engine during the evening for potential structure protection. Weather conditions did not permit the fire to be observed from the air. Consequently, it was difficult to obtain accurate information on what the Wellesley fire was doing. The refuge staff prepared an Escaped Fire Situation

I ) 47 Analysis and a Type ll overhead team and several crews were ordered for structure protection.

A view of the Alcan Port of Entry looking into the refuge. The refuge boundary follows the Alaska Highway. TNWR-27, 8-91, LA V

Wind gusting of near 50 mph out of the southwest accompanied by humidity in the upper 20's resulted in the Wellesley fire making a nine mile run in less than twelve hours. It was confirmed on August 18 that the fire had burned to within a mile of the Port of Entry. Northwest wind on August 18 pushed the fire into Canada. Burnout activities and structure protection measures were taken near the Port of Entry, at a microwave site in Canada, and at two inhabited dwellings in Canada. Ultimately, no structures were lost. The Wellesley Fire burned 18,750 acres on refuge land, and 480 acres in Canada. A Type II overhead team was assigned to the fire for six days and a Type III team was assigned for another four days. The fire never escaped from the refuge boundary on the American side of the border. The Wellesley fire was declared out on October 15.

) I 48 Successful burnout from handline on Wellesley fire (looking east into Canada), approximately 2 miles south of the Port of Entry. The U.S.-Canada border is visible running left to right in upper portion of the picture. TNWR-28, 8-91, LAV

) I 49 )

RM Breeser inspects water bar constructed during rehabilitation of dozer line along an abandoned pipeline corridor on the refuge. TNWR-29, 8-91, LAV

50 )

Late August snowfall helped to accelerate demobilization of suppression resources from Wellesley fire. Here, RM Breeser inspects rehabilitated handline with Type III Incident Commander Don Abbott after the Type II Team was released. TNWR-30, 8-91, LAV

The other wildfire which occurred on the refuge started by lightning on July 30. The Black Hills fire was located approximately one mile from the Chisana River in a limited response zone, and was within a unit that was targeted for a prescribed burn in 1991. The fire was monitored through the month of August and declared out on September 4 after burning approximately 320 acres.

/ ) 51 Black Hills fire in foreground with Wellesley fire visible in left center background prior to August 18 weather event. TNWR-31, 8-91, LA V

Prescribed Fire Activities.

Prescribed fire activities continue to take place within the scope of the Refuge Fire Management Plan. Prescribed Burn Plans were prepared and approved for five burns in 1991: the Mile 1243 Prescribed Burn, the Tsolmund Lake Blackline Prescribed Burn, the Tahamund Waterfowl Habitat Enhancement Prescribed Burn, and the Chisana River Prescribed Burn.

The Mile 1243 Prescribed Burn Plan was carried over from 1990. The purpose of this two acre burn is to provide a roadside interpretive opportunity for visitors to the

f ) 52 refuge to better understand the beneficial effects and uses of fire on the refuge. This burn site is actually on State land and requires State approval of the burn plan. Because the burn site is immediately adjacent to an existing interpretive display and the Alaska Highway, prescription criteria are very restrictive. The bum was not accomplished in 1991 because prescription criteria were not met.

)

BT Peter Butteri and BT Elisa Butteri perform pre-burn vegetation documentation work on the Mile 1243 Prescribed Fire site. TNWR-32, 6-91 LA V

) 53 The Tahamund Waterfowl Habitat Enhancement Prescribed Burn Plan was also carried over from 1990. The purpose of this burn is to provide improvements to waterfowl habitat by removing dead thatch in the dry lake beds and along lake margins to increase vegetative production of new shoots utilized by waterfowl, recycle nutrients, and open up areas on or adjacent to waterbodies where dead vegetation was accumulating. This 600 acre burn was not accomplished because wildfire activity on the refuge took precedence at the time prescription criteria were met.

The Tsolmund Lake Blackline Prescribed Burn is part of a project that has been underway since 1986. The purpose of this burn is to continue the firebreak blackline work accomplished in 1986, 1988, and 1990 (1610 acres was previously burned) to reduce the likelihood of fires which occur in the limited and modified suppression response areas on the southern end of the refuge from spreading into full and critical suppression response areas on the northern end of the refuge. Other wildfire and prescribed fire activity during the burn window specified in the prescription precluded any burning on this unit in 1991.

The Chisana Prescribed Burn Plan was also carried over from 1990. This large 18,300 acre block was divided into three units. The purpose of this burn is to enhance the vegetation mosaic and vegetative diversity in decadent black spruce stands within the burn unit boundaries through the use of fire. Unit 3 of this burn was ignited on September 4. Access to the burn unit was via riverboat. FMO Vanderlinden and BT Peter Butteri and BT Elisa Butteri comprised the prescribed burn team. The Chisana Prescribed Burn was declared out on September 29 after 330 acres were burned.

54 FMO Vanderlinden and BT Peter Butteri preparing gear prior to igniting the Chisana Prescribed Burn. Access by riverboat made this burn very economical to accomplish. TNWR-33, 9-91, LAV

I ) 55 FMO Vanderlinden hand igniting the Chisana Prescribed Burn. A .375 H & H was toted along because of the abundance of bear sign along the river. TNWR-34, 9-91, PB

) / 56 )

Some after effects of the Chisana Prescribed Burn. Shallow-rooted black spruce are often easily toppled by wind following fire. TNWR-35, 09-91, LAV

I ) 57 Fire Effects Studies.

Fire effects studies which were continued in 1991 included winter animal track count data collection on three Kennebec Burn transects (ongoing since the fire occurred in 1982), and post-fire effects data collection on the Tsolmund Lake (ongoing since 1988) and Trail Lake (ongoing since 1990) prescribed bum sites.

Epilobium angustifolium, commonly called fireweed, is a pioneer species whose airborne seeds rapidly invade burn sites in Alaska and can sprout the same year a bum occurs. TNWR-36, 9-91, LAV

f ) 58 )

Edge effect is an important phenomenon of fire occurrence in Alaska that is beneficial to wildlife. TNWR-37, 9-91, LA V

Kennebec Burn Studies. Data collected on the Kennebec Burn in 1991 was limited to track counts completed three times during the winter of 1990-91. These track counts were accomplished on burned and unburned transects in three different vegetation types (spruce forest, mixed forest and tundra). They were established in 1982. Each transect consists of ten 0.1 mile segments. The starting point for each transect is at the fire perimeter and runs generally perpendicular to the fire's perimenter.

Furbearer utilization of burned areas is of particular interest, since trapping is an important subsistence activity on the refuge.

I ) 59 Figures 5 and 6 display the cumulative trend data from 1983-91. The number of tracks tallied for each group was totalled for each year for the burned and unburned transects and divided by the total number of days from the last snowfall to when each count was conducted to arrive at a comparable index. Trails that were documented during the track counts were tallied as two tracks to simplify presentation of results.

Figure 5. Cumulative tracks per day on unburned transects of the Kennebec Bum, 1983-91. CUMULATIVE TRACKS PER DAY--UNBURNED TRANSECTS Kennebec Burn, Tetlin NWR I:Il 2 .------, 40 ttl ~ ii: c:> 1.5 30 ~

~ Q z 20 Zil ~ ~ 0.5 10 ~

0 0

E22Z! MARTEN 0.5 4 1.41 1.23 0.80 0.04 0.26 0. 16 0.53 om &'!.§I LYNX 0.05 0.04 0.09 0.00 0. 13 1.1 2 0.28 0.26 0.12 ~ HARES 0.5 1 5.65 10. 11 15.24 16.08 34.18 34.5 1 30.00 22.68 ~ RODENTS 1. 25 19.69 4.20 8.32 4.00 4.2 1 4.2 1 3.32 1.35 ~ GROUSE om 0.06 0.00 0.00 1.08 0.50 0.65 1.21 0.56

Figure 6. Cumulative tracks per day on burned transects of the Kennebec Burn, 1983-91. CUMULATIVE TRACKS PER DAY--BURNED TRANSECTS Kennebec Burn, Tetlin NWR I:Il 2 .------~ 40 ~ Zil c:> 1.5 ~ ~ 30 20 Zil ~ I 0.5 10

0 0 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 ! r::cz;J MARTEN 0.20 1.14 1.29 1.80 0.96 0.29 0.05 0.11 !iBlLYNX om 0.02 0.00 0.16 0.13 0.35 0.49 0.36 0.37 ~ HARES 3.42 0.43 0.49 4.4 4 3.08 13 .03 25.49 11.45 19.58 ~ RODENTS 1.22 12.98 0.74 4.4 4 3.08 10.47 3.47 4.18 1.56 ~ GROUSE 0.01 0.00 0.06 0.00 2.46 0.50 1.72 5.18 3.53

60 Some general observations can be made concerning the track count data. Shrub regeneration in the burned transects is just starting to reach the point where it offers adequate cover and protection for snowshoe hares. However, hares are still showing up in lower numbers on the burned transects than unburned transects. Small rodent numbers are comparable on both burned and unburned transects. Grouse numbers are now greater on burned transects than unburned transects because they have begun to use some of the open hillsides that were formerly forested, feeding on buds from willow and alder that are regenerating. Lynx and marten are showing up somewhat more frequently in the burned transects than unburned transects nine years after the Kennebec burn.

Tsolmund Lake Burn Studies. The studies underway on the Tsolmund Lake Burn site are for the most part associated with monitoring requirements to determine if burn objectives were met. Vegetation composition data was collected from two transects established before the 1988 ignition of the burn. Post-burn data was collected in 1989, 1990, and 1991 on these transects, and will continue for several more years. The acreage burned thus far on the Tsolmund Lake Bum has been of light to moderate intensity. Seeds and root systems of many herbaceous plants and shrubs survived intact, resulting in fairly rapid vegetative regeneration.

Results from the Tsolmund Lake needleleaf woodland transect are shown in Table 7. The most significant short term fire effects on the vegetation in the needleleaf woodland habitat has been a reduction of mosses and elimination of the overstory of black spruce.

61 Table 7. Pre-fire and post-fire occurrence of plants on a Needleleaf Woodland vegetation transect on the Tsolmund Lake Prescribed Burn, Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge.

Percent Cover 1988 1989 1990 1991 herbs preburn postburn postburn postburn

Ash 85 40 30 Calamagrostis canadensis 5 trace* 10 15 Duff 20 20 Epilobium angustifolium trace Equisetum arvense trace trace trace Equisetum scirpoides trace Eriophorum spp trace trace Geocaulon lividum trace trace trace Lichens 15 5 5 Litter trace 10 10 Mosses 80 15 15 15 Mushrooms trace Pyrola secunda trace Soil trace Total 100 100 100 100 shrubs Andromeda polifolia trace Arctostaphlos rubra trace trace trace Arctostaphlylos uva-ursi 10 trace Betula paprifica (shrub form) trace trace Chamaedaphne calyculata trace trace trace Empetrum nigrum trace Ledum palustre decumbens trace 5 Ledum palustre groenlandicum 5 trace 15 10 Oxycoccus microcarpus trace trace Potentilla fruticosa trace Rosa acicularis trace trace 5 5 Rubus chamaemorus 5 trace 5 5 Salix arbusculoides trace trace Salix bebbiana trace Salix glauca trace trace trace trace Shepherdia canadensis trace Vaccinium oxycoccos trace Vaccinium uliginosum trace trace trace Vaccinium vitis-idaea 10 10 trees Betula paprifica (tree form) trace Deadfall trace Picea mariana** 10 trace

* trace denotes < 5% cover ** live Picea mariana averaged 1.75" in diameter and 9 ft in height Trail Lake Burn Studies. The study underway on the Trail Lake Burn site is also associated with monitoring requirements to determine if burn objectives were met. Vegetation composition data was collected on four transects established before the 1989 ignition of the bum. Post-burn data was collected in 1989, 1990 and 1991 on two of these transects and will continue for several more years.

The Trail Lake N eedleleaf Woodland transect results are shown in Table 8. The prefire condition of the Trail Lake transect was generally less open and had less deadfall than the Tsolmund Lake transect, and prebum plant diversity was also lower. Fire effects thus far on the Trail Lake transect are similar to those mentioned on the Tsolmund Lake transect.

Table 8. Pre-fire and post-fire occurrence of plants on a Needleleaf Woodland vegetation transect on the Trail Lake Prescribed Burn, Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge.

Percent Cover herbs 1989 1990 1991 prebum postbum postbum

Ash 35 10 Calamagrostis canadensis 15 10 15 Epilobium angustifolium trace trace Equisetum scirpoides trace trace Equisetum pratense trace Lichens trace 20 20 Mosses 65 5 trace Litter 10 30 50 Mertensia paniculata 5 5 Mushrooms trace Soil trace trace Geocaulon lividurn 5 Goodyera repens trace Pyrola secunda trace Total 100 100 100 shrubs Vaccinium vitis idaea 25 5 trace Rosa acicularis 5 trace trace Linnea borealis trace trace Ledum groenlandicum 10 5 trace Empetrum nigrum trace Viburnum edule trace trace Salix arbusculoides trace trace Alnus crispa trace trace Rubus idaeus trace trace Ribes hudsonianum trace Ribes triste trace Betula paprifica (shrub form) 10 10 trees Picea mariana 10 Picea glauca trace Betula paprifica (tree form) 5 Deadfall 20 10 10

** trace denotes < 5% cover

63 )

Collecting morel mushrooms from recent burned areas is a tasty and profitable activity. A bumper crop of morels are expected in 1992 as a result of the Wellesley fire. The refuge has already received several inquiries regarding commercial morel mushroom collecting. TNWR-38, 7-91, HKT

) 64 G. WILDLIFE

)

This lark sparrow provided a first state record for Alaska. It was found at the refuge Visitor Center. Unfortunately it only stayed around for about 20 minutes. TNWR-39, 7-91, TJD

L Wildlife Diversity

More than 170 species of birds use the refuge (see enclosed bird list inside back cover) as well as 44 species of mammals, 15 species of fish, and one species of amphibian (wood frog). No reptiles are found on the refuge.

I J 65 The refuge's geographic location places it at the northern limits for a number of bird species that are not found in other areas of Alaska. This fact was highlighted this year when the first State Record of lark sparrow for Alaska was documented July 12 at the refuge Visitor Center. The refuge is located in the main migration path of birds entering and leaving the interior part of the state. The extreme winter weather does send most birds winging south, leaving only about 25 year round resident avian species. Caribou is one species that does not mind the cold weather. In the past four years caribou from the Nelchina and Mentasta herds have increased their winter usage of the refuge.

2. Endangered and Threatened Species

There is only one endangered species found on the refuge, the American peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus anatum). The population of this species has been increasing and there is some talk about delisting it in the near future. While the peregrine is not known to nest on the refuge they do feed on the refuge during migration. Peregrine falcon sightings were scattered out between May 9 and September 7 in 1991 with the majority of sightings taking place in May. An active nesting site near Tok accounted for most of this years sightings.

The State of Alaska's threatened and endangered list includes 30 plant species. Although none of these have been identified on the refuge there are three which can be found within a 150 mile radius of the refuge. These are Aster Yukonensis, Smelowskia borealis villosa, and Thlaspi acticum.

During the year no active management was done for any of these animal or plant species.

3. Waterfowl

Waterfowl production in 1991 was at the lowest level recorded for the refuge. This is despite what appeared to be ideal weather conditions similar to weather conditions of the previous two years when waterfowl production was at record high levels.

The June breeding pair survey was foregone for the third and final year in favor of a third brood survey as part of The feasibility of conducting a singular duck brood survey study.

Data from The feasibility of conducting a singular duck brood survey study was used to obtain an estimate of waterfowl productivity for the refuge. Refuge staff conducted on ground brood surveys on 124 waterbodies in 11 cluster areas distributed across the refuge. This year's brood surveys were conducted from July 9

66 to August 14, the same inclusive dates as in 1990. Brood data for the early and late survey were reconciled according to the procedures used in Blankenship et al. (1953), whereby newly hatched broods since the first brood survey are added to the count from the first brood survey to obtain a final count. An estimate of the total number of young produced on the refuge is obtained using actual brood sizes and expanding the sample by the area of open water on the refuge.

Unstratified population estimates can be calculated as far back as 1983 (Table 9). In 1987 an additional cluster was established in the low density stratum allowing calculation of a population estimate using stratified sampling. Population estimates using the stratified sample are more precise but only go back only as far as 1987.

In 1991 duck production was the second lowest recorded (Table 9). Production in 1988 was only 100 birds fewer. Just over 19,000 ducklings were estimated to have been produced, down 50% from 1990 and down 29% from the eight year average. Biggest decreases were observed for scaup, mallard, northern pintail, and scoters. Only green-winged teal were up from 1990 and the 8 year average. Ring-necked ducks and bufflehead were up from 1990, but not the 8 year average.

Estimates using stratified cluster sampling are consistently higher that those using simple cluster sampling but show the same general trend (Table 10).

Table9. Estimated number of ducklings produced on the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, 1983-91. Calculations are based on an unstratified cluster sample, expanded by water area.

Species 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 Average 1991 %change %change 1982-90 fromavg from 1990

American wigeon 2911 . 4523 1534 4641 2371 2937 2144 2194 2906.9 2003 -31.1 -8.7 Green-winged teal 3147 2163 2675 3894 3928 2477 2329 2265 2859.8 3313 15.8 46.3 Mallard 3186 2635 826 1377 1486 1274 1191 3185 1895.0 848 -55.3 -73.4 Northern pintail 1377 118 197 3894 1168 672 873 2229 1316.0 385 -70.7 -82.7 Northern shove1er 79 629 708 1219 1238 0 26 318 527.1 0 -100.0 -100.0 Blue-winged teal 747 0 0 248 0 0 0 142.1 0 -100.0 0.0

Total dabblers 10700 10815 5940 15025 10439 7360 6563 10191 9629.1 6550 -32.0 -35.7

Scaupspp. 8142 4483 10541 4720 4034 6511 11725 18400 8569.5 5009 -n.5 -72.8 Ring-necked duck 3658 1062 2675 433 1097 212 5240 3291 2208.5 3082 39.6 -6.4 Bufflehead 3579 2242 1298 2163 1628 1451 2143 3008 2189.0 2466 12.7 -18.0 White-winged scoter 3147 708 1573 2989 495 1345 3546 531 1791.8 0 -100.0 -100.0 Goldeneye spp. 1141 669 393 197 1628 566 1905 1026 940.6 964 2.5 -6.0 Canvasback 1259 2360 236 551 106 495 1641 354 875.3 308 -64.8 -13.0 Surf scoter 0 79 0 0 0 1026 1085 778 371.0 193 -48.0 -75.2 Scoterspp. 0 0 0 0 778 0 159 0 117.1 0 -100.0 0.0 Ruddy duck 39 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 4.9 0 -100.0 0.0

Total diver/seaduck 20965 11603 16716 11053 9766 11606 27444 27388 17067.6 12290 -28.0 -55.1

Total ducklings 31665 22418 22656 26078 20205 18966 34007 37579 26696.8 19033 -28.7 -49.4

67 Table 10. Estimated number of ducklings produced on the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, 1987-91. Calculations are based on a stratified cluster sample expanded by the area of open water on the refuge. I Species 1987 1988 1989 1990 Average 1991 o/o change %change 1987-90 from avg from 1990

Gneen-winged teal 5385 3515 2458 3427 3696.3 5172 39.9 50.9 American wigeon 3288 3639 2275 2929 3032.8 3041 03 3.8 Mallard 1977 1357 1079 4135 2137.0 1463 -315 ~.6 Northern pintail 1631 851 906 2837 1556.3 564 -63.8 -80.1 Northern shoveler 2111 0 31 496 659.5 0 -100.0 -100.0 Blue-winged teal 422 0 0 0 105.5 0 -100.0 0.0

Total dabblers 14814 9362 6749 13824 11187.3 10240 -85 -25.9

Scaup spp. 5113 9675 12678 28480 13986.5 8458 -395 -703 Ring-necked duck 1186 362 5600 4308 2864.0 5100 78.4 18.6 Bufflehead 2071 2025 2262 3929 2571.8 3774 46.7 -3.9 White-winged scoter 358 1354 4074 383 1542.3 0 0.0 -100.0 Goldeneye spp. 1859 757 1%2 1161 1434.8 1434 .{).1 235 Canvasback 181 844 1897 603 881.3 606 -31.2 05 Surf Scoter 0 1068 1045 979 773.0 223 -71.2 -77.2 Scoter spp. 985 0 164 0 287.3 0 0.0 0.0

Total divers/seaducks 11753 16085 29682 39844 24341.0 19830 -185 -50.2

Total ducklings 26567 25447 36431 53668 35528.3 30293 -14.7 -43.6

This molting mallard was captured during a brood survey in July. Mallard production in 1991 dropped 65% compared to 1990 and was down 32% from the long term average. TNWR-40, 7-91, TJD

I ) 68 Four lakes located near the village of Tetlin have been surveyed for duck broods in 25 of 31 years since 1961. These counts are conducted on or about July 15th of each year and are therefore orientated towards dabblers. Dathlalmund, Island and Old Albert Lakes are canoed around, while Gasoline Lake is walked. The Migratory Birds Office conducted the survey through 1984, but were unable to continue because of budget cuts. Since 1985, refuge staff have taken over the responsibility of surveying the lakes.

The annual duck brood count on Dathlalmund, Gasoline, Island and Old Albert lakes, was conducted on July 16th and 18th by WB Doyle and RM Breeser. This year the brood count was the lowest in nearly a decade (Figure 7 and Table 11) following the trend seen in refuge surveys. Diver broods continue to make up a larger proportion of the total brood count (52% in 1991) indicating divers may be nesting earlier than in previous years because of earlier springs.

Twenty-three adult ruddy ducks were seen on Dathlalmund and Gasoline Lakes near Tetlin on July 16, but no breeding activity was observed. This is one of the few places in Alaska where ruddy ducks are found.

Figure 7. Number of duck broods on Tetlin Corporation lands, 1961-91.

200 00 0 0 0 ~ 150 ~ ~ 0 Ei1 ~ 100 :::E ~ 50

1961 1962 1963 1964 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1973 1974 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 YEAR

---.- TOTAL DUCK BROODS --+- DABBLER BROODS

69 Table II. Number of broods cowued on Dathlalmund, Gasoline, Island and Old Albert Lakes from 1%1-91, Tetlin Cotporation Land, Alaska.

Species 1%1 1962 1%3 1964 1%5 1966 1%7 1968 1%9 1970 1971 1m 1m 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1961 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 Average 1991 %change %change (n=24) fromavg from 1990

Green-winged teal 42 30 27 19 16 66 101 103 85 44 4 8 10 9 12 3 20 22 15 30 29 18 19 22 31.4 9 -71.4 -59.1 Mallard 34 14 23 2 3 9 13 13 10 12 2 3 I I 2 4 2 3 2 5 4 6 9 7.4 I -86.4 -&3.9 Northern pintail 19 18 11 4 3 8 21 21 17 12 I 2 2 I 7 11 I 4 4 3 4 4 7.4 2 -73.0 -50.0 B!u .. wmged teal I 0.0 -100.0 -100.0 Northern shoveler 2 I I 7 4 6 2 0 4 6 2 7 3 I 3 4 2.2 I -54.7 -75.0 Gadwall 0 2 0.1 -100.0 0.0 American wigeon 74 18 23 6 7 36 28 39 47 11 7 3 6 6 2 14 19 6 12 4 9 11 7 16.5 2 -SlB -71.4 Unidentified dabbler 2 0.1 -100.0 0.0

Total dabblers 171 81 84 31 29 119 164 183 !63 85 9 20 13 18 19 8 49 60 29 55 45 37 43 47 65.1 15 -77.0 -68.1

Canvasback 14 18 14 2 3 6 9 16 7 12 6 8 9 6 I 4 4 2 3 3 2 I 9 6 69 3 -56.4 -50.0 Ring-necked duck I 0.0 -100.0 -100.0 laser/ greater scaup 14 2 11 2 10 14 11 44 2 I 4 I 4 3 11 5 4 6 6 4 10 7 7.3 -100.0 -100.0 White-wingedscoter 0 0 I I 0.1 I 1100.0 INF Goldeneye spp. 2 0 2 4 3 0.5 3 554.5 0.0 Bufflehead 6 7 13 9 12 8 2.3 8 249.1 0.0 Bufflehead/Goldeneye 0.0 I INF INF

28 20 25 4 3 16 23 27 51 14 7 12 10 10 4 4 15 7 13 18 21 17 36 25 17.1 16 -6.3 -36.0 '-1 Total divers/sea ducks 0 Unidentified duck I 0.0 -100.0 0.0

Total ducks 199 101 109 35 32 135 187 210 214 99 16 32 23 28 23 12 64 67 42 73 66 54 80 72 82.2 31 -62.3 -56.9 Geese

The refuge is an important migration route for both Canada and greater white­ fronted geese that migrate to and from the state. Occasionally snow geese and brant are seen. Canada geese do not nest on the Tetlin Refuge in any substantial numbers. Estimates of 30-50 nesting pairs have been made from incidental observations. On July 19, nine Canada goose young were observed with three adults on the Tahamund Lake duck production cluster. A flock of 15-20 snow geese were seen near Mansfield Lake, 16 miles northwest of Tok on September 10 by Craig Gardner, the local Area Biologist for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game.

Trumpeter Swans

The Upper Tanana Valley is an important migration route for tundra and trumpeter swans. The valley's southeast to northwest orientation provides a convenient route for swans, and many other species of birds, migrating into and out of interior Alaska. However the occurrence of breeding trumpeter swans in the Upper Tanana Valley is relatively new. The first documented nesting of trumpeter ·swans in the Upper Tanana was in 1982 when three nests produced 12 cygnets. Since that time the total number of swans as well as nests and cygnets has increased dramatically.

71 I

A series of early springs and long summers is believed to be the reason why trumpeter swans are expanding so rapidly into what was at one time vacant habitat. TNWR- 41, CJP

The surveyed area includes that portion of the Tanana River basin upstream of the confluence with the Robertson River. The area contains 2162 square miles and extends east to the Canadian border, south to the Nutzotin Mountains and west to the Mentasta Mountains.

) I 72 Data on population trends and nest/brood survival was obtained by conducting aerial surveys in a PA-18 Super Cub and Cessna 172. All waterbodies shown on 14 USGS 1:63,360 scale maps composed the study area. The wetlands were surveyed in late August of 1980, 1982, and 1985-91. Partial maps were surveyed in 1983 and 1984. Historical brood and/ or nest locations were searched during incubation to locate active nests. In 1990 and 1991 clutch sizes were determined by making a low pass over the nest and counting the number of eggs. Active territories located during the nest survey were searched shortly after hatching was observed to determine nest success and obtain early brood counts. Brood survival was determined by comparing early brood rearing counts to late brood rearing counts from the same territories. All swan locations were recorded according to the 1986 Trumpeter Swan Protocol.

The number of trumpeter swans has increased dramatically since 1982. In 1982, 56 swans were counted during the late brood rearing period in late August. Since that time the population has increased an average of 25% each year. In 1991, they numbered 426 (Table 12 and Figure 8). Most of the expansion has occurred in the northern portion of the Tetlin refuge which contains some of the most productive waterfowl habitat.

While total swan populations did increase in 1991, the rate of increase was well below the nine-year average. The number of flocked birds (in groups of three or more) increased dramatically in 1991, making up 30% of the population. The number of cygnets during the late summer production survey decreased for the first time ever; from 184 cygnets in 1990 to 118 in 1991. Average clutch size of 29 nests in 1991 was 5.27 compared to 5.42 in 1990. Average brood size in 1991 was the lowest ever recorded at 3.5. Fewer nesting territories were occupied in 1991. Of the 60 nesting territories that have been identified only 68% were occupied in 1991 while in past years 78% have been occupied. In 1991 63% of the eggs hatched while in 1990 81% of the eggs hatched. In 1991 77% of cygnets survived while in 1990 92% survived. A combination of lower nest site occupancy, smaller clutch sizes, and lower egg and brood survival all combined to reduce the number of cygnets produced in 1991. However the reasons for these reductions remain unclear. It is possible that this is an early indication of a stabilizing swan population in the Upper Tanana Valley but may also be connected to factors responsible for the reduction in duck production also observed in 1991.

The refuge has an active swan collaring program. In 1991, 56 flightless swans were captured - 43 cygnets, 7 subadults, 4 adults, and 2 tundra swans. To date 97 trumpeter swans have been banded and visual neck collars attached. 12 of these have been re-sighted on their wintering grounds; eight on the north side of Vancouver Island, British Columbia and four north of Seattle, Washington. Sightings north of Seattle include three members of a brood of five, collared in 1989, first spotted in December, 1990 and were still present in January 1991 along the lower Skagit River, and one cygnet collared in 1991 seen near Conway, Washington on

73 November 29, 1991. Six sightings have occurred on the breeding grounds, three of which could be positively identified. A male attempted to breed as a 4-year-old in 1987, 21 miles from where it was captured as a cygnet. This bird has bred in the same location every year since. A female that shed it's collar, was recaptured seven years later as a breeding adult in 1991, 13 miles from where it was captured as a cygnet. A 2-year-old male was in a non-breeding flock of three in 1991, nine miles from where it was captured as a cygnet. The tundra swan that was collared in 1991 was seen once in Utah, 15 miles northwest of Ogden, on November 14, 1991.

Blood was drawn from 42 cygnets in 1991 for a genetics study being conducted at McMaster University in Hamilton, Ontario.

To our surprise we pulled 2 tundra swans out of the net while collaring trumpeter swans. Both were non-breeders which probably dropped out during migration and molted in the area. This tundra swan was resighted 15 miles northwest of Ogden, Utah on November 14, 1991. TNWR- 42, 8-91, TJD

I ) 74 Table 12 Number of trumpeter swans recorded during a late summer census of the Upper Tanana Valley, Alaska, 1982-91.

%change %change Group 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 from 1990 from 1982

Pairs without cygnets 24 22 6 26 36 66 52 72 74 96 29.7 300.0

Pairs with cygnets 6 12 18 24 22 24 38 50 84 68 -19.0 1033.3

Flocked birds 11 3 3 34 29 35 28 45 35 128 265.7 1063.6

Single birds 3 0 3 11 9 7 17 15 13 17 30.8 466.7

Cygnets 12 27 34 43 44 44 76 90 184 118 -35.9 883.3

Total swans 56 64 64 138 140 176 211 271 390 427 9.5 662.5

Average brood size 4.0 4.5 3.8 3.6 4.0 3.7 4.0 3.6 4.4 3.5 -20.5 -12.5

) Figure 8. Number of trumpeter swans recorded during a late summer census of the Upper Tanana Valley, Alaska, 1982-91. 500

en .....:l 400 ~ Ci -> 300 -Ciz -~ 0 200 ~ l:.il a:l ~ :::>z 100

0 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 YEAR

- PAIRS WITHOUT CYGNETS ---+-- PAIRS WITH CYGNETS ---+-- FWCKED BIRDS

- SINGl-ES --+-- CYNGETS -TOTAl-

) I 75 4. Marsh and Waterbirds

There are nine species of marsh and water birds that occur on the refuge (see enclosed bird list). Horned grebe and pacific loon are the most common breeders followed by red-necked grebe. One red-throated loon was seen near Jatahmund Lake this year. Common loons were seen at three different locations with a pair and two young at Jatahmund Lake.

A small number of sandhill cranes nest on the muskeg flats between Tahamund and Big John Lake. However, during spring and fall migration, up to one half of the entire world population of sandhill cranes (some 200,000 birds) pass through the upper Tanana River Valley.

A sora rail was heard on the refuge near Yarger Lake on June 20 while refuge staff were conducting a Breeding Bird Survey. Only three American coots were seen this year on Gasoline Lake near Tetlin Village on July 16. No young coots were seen in 1991. The Upper Tanana Valley is one of the few places in Alaska where these two species can be found.

Up to one half of the world population of Sandhill Cranes passes through the Upper Tanana River Valley each spring and fall. TNWR-43, 5-91, HKT ) 76 5. Shorebirds, Gulls, Terns and Allied Species

) While some 26 species of shorebirds occur on the Tetlin Refuge, most are migrants passing between wintering and breeding grounds. The most abundant breeding shorebird is the lesser yellowlegs which can be found in abundance nearly everywhere on the refuge. Common snipe are of lesser abundance but widely distributed while spotted sandpipers are common along watercourses. Mew and Bonaparte's gulls are commonly found on the refuge as well.

There were several uncommon sightings during 1991. Perhaps the most unusual sighting was of a black turnstone that was seen at the refuge visitor center on August 22 by Student Trainee (Biology) Jeff Melegari and others. This species usually does not wander too far from the coast. A killdeer nested in a gravel pit six miles east of Tok. Three young and an adult were present on July 11. Killdeer are rare breeders in Alaska. A black-bellied plover was found injured near the border and brought into our office on September 18. This species usually migrates along the coast. Herring gulls were seen almost daily from May 7-15 near Tok by Tom Pogson of the Alaska Bird Observatory. Other herring gulls were seen on the refuge July 11, 31, and August 2. On July 31, a herring gull was observed eating a brood of two Class lb scaup near Trail Lake!

This black turnstone made a surprise appearance at the refuge visitor center on August 22. Typically a coastal bird, this individual was about 175 miles from the nearest coastal habitat. TNWR-44, 8-91, JLM

J 77 6. Raptors

Some 13 species of hawks and six species of owls are known to occur on the refuge (see enclosed bird list). Bald eagles are common nesters on the refuge.

A raptor nest occupancy survey was conducted May 17-23. Of the 68 platforms checked 47% were occupied. A total of 15 bald eagle, nine osprey, three peregrine falcon, three common raven, one red-tailed hawk, and one golden eagle nests were active. One new osprey nest was also found. Golden eagles nested for the second documented time on the refuge.

A raptor production survey was flown July 17-18. Of seven occupied osprey nests, six produced at least one young and of 12 occupied bald eagle nests, five produced at least one young.

The northern portion of the refuge and the adjacent Tetlin Native Corporation land supports the highest density of nesting osprey in Alaska. In 1991, the Alaska Department of Fish & Game conducted osprey nest surveys in May. In early August they conducted occupancy surveys and banded young. Alaska Department of Fish and Game survey results from 1991 were not available in time to be included in this report. However, information from 1983-1990 is included in Table 13.

Table 13. Osprey productivity for the Tetlin Native Corporation Land and the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, 1983-1990 (from Hughes 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, and Hughes and Wright 1990).

Occupied Nests Young Young Year Nests w/ Young Produced Fledged Productivity1

1983 7 4 9 9 1.29 1984 17 8 15 13 0.76 1985 19 8 15 11 0.58 1986 25 15 34 32 1.28 1987 26 13 25 23 0.88 1988 23 15 31 1.44 1989 24 14 25 1.04 1990 27 17 30 1.11 1991 data not available

1 Young fledged per active nest.

78 During the past nine years over 120 young osprey have been banded in this area. There have been two recoveries, both from dead birds found the same year they were banded. In 1983 a bird was found near Roseville, California and in 1986 a bird was found on the southwest coast of Mexico less than two months after it was banded.

The refuge hosts six species of owls, the most common of which is the great horned owl (Table 14). Great homed owls, great gray owls, and northern hawk owls were seen and heard throughout the area during the year. A boreal owl was heard at the Jatahmund Lake cabin on March 26. Short-eared owls are migrants through the area.

Table 14. Owl sightings on and near the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge in 1991.

Species No. individuals No. days

Great homed owl 34 19 Great gray owl 17 12 Northern hawk owl 9 6 Boreal owl 1 1 Short-eared owl 1 1

79 )

The elusive boreal owl is rarely seen but probably more common that believed. This individual spent several days near a horne in Northway, Alaska. TNWR-45, 3-90, MS

7. Other Migratory Birds

Noteworthy bird sightings for 1991 include the first Alaska state record of lark sparrow. Black-backed as well as several other species of woodpeckers are starting to appear in the Tok River Burn. The number of white-winged crossbills began tapering off during the year.

) f 80 The refuge has maintained arrival dates for spring migrants during the past 10 years (Table 15). Many bird arrival dates are remarkably similar from year to year. Based on this set of species, 1991 was an average year for bird arrivals.

Table 15. Migratory bird arrival dates in the Upper Tanana River Valley, Alaska, 1982-1991

Species 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 avgdate S (days)

Snow bunting 10-Mar 26-Mar 13-Mar 16-Mar 13-Mar 07-Mar 04-Mar 19-Mar 03-Mar 21-Mar 13-Mar 7.35 Bald eagle 09-Apr 07-Apr 29-Mar 16-Mar 19-Feb 24-Mar 05-Apr 29-Mar 28-Mar 21-Mar 25-Mar 14.3 Northern harrier 17-Mar 18-Apr 06-Apr 12-Apr 27-Mar 31-Mar 14-Apr 14-Apr 12-Apr 15-Apr 07-Apr 10.31 American tree sparrow 13-Mar 25-Apr 16-Apr 26-Apr 31-Mar 17-Mar 22-Apr 28-Apr 12-May 18-Apr 15-Apr 19.29 American robin 04-May 25-Apr 19-Apr 21-Apr 16-Apr 28-Apr 20-Apr 05-Apr 22-Apr 21-Apr 21-Apr 757 Northern pintail 04-May 23-Apr 21-Apr 22-Apr 19-Apr 24-Apr 20-Apr 19-Apr 26-Apr 14-Apr 22-Apr 5.23 Sandhill crane 30-Apr 23-Apr .26-Apr 27-Apr 26-Apr 25-Apr 24-Apr 25-Apr 26-Apr 21-Apr 25-Apr 2A2 American wigeon 04-May 03-May 22-Apr 29-Apr 29-Apr 27-Apr 26-Apr 25-Apr 27-Apr 28-Apr 28-Apr 3.33 Yellow-rumped warbler 06-May 26-Apr 27-Apr 01-May 03-May 01-May 29-Apr 27-Apr 26-Apr 30-Apr 30-Apr 3.19 Violet-green swallow 02-May 24-Apr 05-May 07-May 08-May 03-May 04-May 28-Apr 09-May 27-Apr 03-May 5.09

Tom Pogson of the newly formed Alaska Bird Observatory banded birds near Tok during spring migration. Between April 30 and May 30, 279 individuals of 26 species were banded (Table 16). Most birds (58%) were caught between May 17-22.

81 Table 16. Migratory birds banded at the mouth of the Tok River by Tom Pogson of the Alaska Bird Observatory, April 30 - May 30, 1991.

Species No. Individuals

Swainson' s thrush 82 Orange-crowned warbler 46 Dark-eyed junco 29 Wilson's warbler 23 Boreal chickadee 14 Gray-cheeked thrush 12 Fox sparrow 9 Yell ow warbler 6 Northern waterthrush 6 American tree sparrow 6 American robin 5 Blackpoll warbler 5 Lincoln's sparrow 5 Hermit thrush 4 Savannah sparrow 4 White-crowned sparrow 4 Hammond's flycatcher 3 Yellow-rumped warbler 3 White-winged crossbill 3 Ruby-crowned kinglet 2 Varied thrush 2 Golden-crowned sparrow 2 Sharp-shinned hawk 1 Alder flycatcher 1 Gray jay 1 Black-capped chickadee 1

Total 279

A Breeding Bird Survey route has been conducted along the Alaska Highway bordering the Tetlin NWR since 1988 (Table 17). Forty-seven species have been recorded in the last 3 years.

82 Table 17. Number of individuals counted on the Northway Breeding Bird Survey, 1989-91.

Number of Individuals on Species 6/16/89 6/27/90 6/20/91 Average SID

Dark-eyed junco 77 58 88 74.33 15.18 Swainson's thrush 50 72 65 62.33 11.24 American robin 56 32 80 56 24 Cliff swallow 50 24 3 25.67 23.54 Yellow-rumped warbler 26 22 24 24 2 Gray jay 21 32 14 22.33 9.07 White-crowned sparrow 19 21 24 21.33 2.52 Lesser yellowlegs 17 12 24 17.67 6.03 Lincoln's sparrow 10 19 24 17.67 7.09 Alder flycatcher 11 13 26 16.67 8.14 Bank swallow 19 4 19 14 8.66 Chipping sparrow 6 27 9 14 11.36 Ruby-crowned kinglet 11 7 16 11.33 4.51 Orange-crowned warbler 15 5 13 11 5.29 Hermit thrush 18 6 5 9.67 7.23 Common snipe 8 12 7 9 2.65 Mallard 22 1 1 8 12.12 Redpoll spp. 6 3 12 7 4.58 Varied thrush 6 7 7 6.67 0.58 Rusty blackbird 4 1 10 5 4.58 White-winged crossbill 0 3 12 5 6.24 Solitary sandpiper 3 10 1 4.67 4.73 Northern flicker 4 4 4 4 0 Olive-sided flycatcher 3 4 4 3.67 0.58 Bohemian waxwing 8 0 3 3.67 4.04 Gray-cheeked thrush 2 5 1 2.67 2.08 Violet-green swallow 6 0 1 2.33 3.21 Mew gull 3 2 1 2 1 Savannah sparrow 0 5 0 1.67 2.89 Western wood pewee 2 1 1 1.33 0.58 Red-necked grebe 2 0 2 1.33 1.15 Horned grebe 1 0 2 1 1 Pacific loon 1 2 0 1 1 Sandhill crane 2 0 1 1 1 Pine grosbeak 1 2 0 1 1 Boreal chickadee 1 0 2 1 1 Belted kingfisher 0 1 1 0.67 0.58 Northern waterthrush 1 0 1 0.67 0.58 Arctic tern 2 0 0 0.67 1.15 Bonaparte's gull 0 2 0 0.67 1.15 Tree swallow 0 0 1 0.33 0.58 Green-winged teal 1 0 0 0.33 0.58 American widgeon 1 0 0 0.33 0.58 Yellow wagtail 1 0 0 0.33 0.58 Sora rail 0 0 1 0.33 0.58 Spotted sandpiper 0 0 1 0.33 0.58 Yellow warbler 0 0 1 0.33 0.58

Number of species 39 32 39 36.67 4.04

83 )

The gray-cheeked thrush is an uncommon breeder and migrant on the refuge, but a neotropical migrant warranting further study. TNWR-46, 7-86, RLB

8. Game Mammals

Moose

The refuge provides substantial summer and late winter moose habitat. The higher elevations above 3,000 feet also serve as rutting and early winter habitat. The exchange of animals between the refuge and other areas in Game Management Unit 12 occurs but is not known in any detail.

Annual trend counts were flown November 5-18. A total of 452 moose were counted, a 9% drop from 1990 (Table 18 and Figure 9). The proportion of calves in the

I ) 84 population dropped for the second year in a row down to 19.8 calves per 100 cows. The presence of caribou in the winter probably reduces winter predation of moose by wolves. However, overall it may result in a healthier wolf population which in the long run results in higher predation on moose calves once the caribou leave the area. The proportion of yearlings in the population increased in 1991 despite a decrease in the proportion of calves the prior year. This would tend to support the theory that most wolf predation on moose takes place when the calves are young. Our radio equipped cow moose tend to support this theory. The bull:cow ratio remains high at 93.4 bulls per 100 cows, indicative of a lightly hunted population.

)

Cow moose with twins are becoming a rarity in recent years as cow:calf ratios decline. The abundance of caribou in the winter has reduced the predation on moose by wolves in the winter. However, the net effect may be an increase in wolf predation on moose calves. TNWR-47, 6- 91, KOD

I ) 85 Table 18. Moose counts in trend areas on and adjacent to Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, 1981-91.

1981-1990 ll change ll change Parameter 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 !986 1987 1988 1989 1990 Average 1991 from1990 from average

Total Moose 122 147 180 305 171 179 425 459 495 497 298.0 452 -9.1 51.7

Cows 57 84 92 149 86 95 211 182 214 222 139.2 212 -1.5 52.3

Adult Bulls 40 35 60 91 55 57 125 147 145 175 93.0 !57 -10.3 68.8

Yearling Bulls 9 17 8 IS 12 17 35 54 48 36 25.1 41 13.9 63.3

Calves 16 II 20 50 18 10 55 75 85 64 40.4 42 -34.4 4.0

Calves:lOOcows 28.1 13.1 21.7 33.6 20.9 10.5 26.1 41.2 39.7 28.8 26.4 19.8 -31.3 -24.9

Y Bulls:!OOcows 15.8 20.2 8.7 10.1 14.0 17.9 16.6 29.7 224 16.2 17.2 19.3 19.3 12.7 ---Bulls:lOOcows 86.0 61.9 73.9 71.1 77.9 77.9 75.8 110.4 90.2 95.0 82.0 93.4 -1.7 13.9 00 SUIVeydate 19Nov 18-200ct !8-23Nov 290ct·6Nov 310ct 24Nov-3 Dec 3-25Nov 270ct-7Nov 2-3Nov 23-24Nov 5-18Nov C1'. Drainage surveyed N K.CHE K.CHE,N K.CHE,N K.CHE K.CHE,N K.CHE,N,CHI K.CHE,N,CHI K.CHE,N,CHI K.CHE,N,CHI K.CHE,N,CHI

Survey conditions Good VGood Fair Good VGood VGood Excellent Excellent Excellent Very Good Very Good Figure 9. Moose ratios of bulls, yearlings and calves per 100 cows derived from counts in trend areas on and adjacent to Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, 1981-91. 120

100 gr:/J u 0 ,...... 0 80

60

40

20

0 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 YEAR -- CALVES ---- YEARLING BULLS ----BULLS

Two collared cows remained on the air from those captured in April 1984. These cows were located periodically to assess production, and quantify movements.

Six moose (five cows and one bull) were captured and radio-collared May 1-2 in the northern part of the refuge as part of a cooperative project with the Walter Northway Public School (See section H.). Three of the captured moose had satellite collars attached (one bull and two cows). One of the cows that was fitted with a satellite collar had been previously radio collared during 1984. That radio had exceeded it's life expectancy, so a decision was made to replace it. All five newly collared cows had calves, one had twins. The other cow collared since 1984 also had a calf for a total of 7 calves produced from the 6 cows.

87 By the end of the year there were seven mortalities. The bull with the satellite collar was found dead six weeks after it was captured. Another moose with a satellite collar was found dead August 28. Five calves were lost between May 30 and August 28. The remaining cow collared since 1984 went off the air in mid August. Of the four cows remaining, three have spent most of their time in the Upper Ladue River drainage, north of the refuge. The other cow and her calf traversed the refuge in late August to the Upper Cheslina drainage and stayed there until mid November when it travelled another 40 miles back to the Upper Ladue!

Caribou

Numbers of caribou utilizing the Tetlin NWR have increase dramatically over the last four winters. Portions of five different herds winter on or near the refuge.

The 40 mile herd is generally found north of the refuge during the winter but some members range as far south as Midway Lake in the northwest corner of the refuge. This herd has been expanding and currently numbers about 21,000.

The Chisana herd is a small herd numbering about 1400 spending most of it's time in the upper Chisana River, although occasionally some members come out onto the flats along the southern edge of the refuge.

The Macomb herd numbers no more than 600 animals and calves 75 miles northwest of the refuge on the Macomb Plateau. This herd has been declining in recent years. Two radio-collared members of this herd were located on the refuge in February and March of 1991 and one of those individuals returned in the fall of 1991. These wayward Macomb animals spent the summer with the Nelchina herd!

The Mentasta herd calves on the slopes of Mt. Sanford and generally moves onto the refuge in the winter. This is a relatively small herd numbering about 1900. A few animals summer on the refuge, primarily in the Upper Cheslina drainage.

The Nelchina herd has been expanding in numbers and range. They currently number approximately 45,000 and account for the majority of the caribou that winter on the refuge.

The entire Nelchina and Mentasta herds started out 1991 on and near the refuge. They extended as far east as the White River in the Yukon Territory and as far north as Tok, the greatest eastern extent of their winter range yet. Unlike 1990, there were quite a few that crossed the Alaska Highway. Most caribou had moved southwest of the refuge by the end of March but a few lingered on the refuge through April.

88 Caribou began arriving on the refuge on October 17, 1991, only a day later than in 1990. By the end of October they had reached the Alaska Highway. The caribou did not spread as fast or as far to the southeast in the fall of 1991 as they did in 1990. Only about one third of the Nelchina herd returned to the refuge area in the fall of 1991. An estimated 17,000 caribou were on the Tetlin-Northway flats at the end of 1991. They extended from Tetlin Junction in the north as far south and east as the Chisana River, although some Nelchina animals extended into the upper reaches of Scottie Creek in the Yukon Territory.

Wolves

Documentation of wolf numbers on the Tetlin refuge are based primarily on compilation of casual observations made by refuge staff conducting other surveys and users of the refuge, primarily trappers. Several packs have been radio collared since 1987, providing the best estimates of pack size. Attempts at aerial wolf surveys have been foiled by the presence of caribou on the refuge during the winter, obscuring wolf tracks.

Fall estimates have increased from 55 in 1988 to 90 in 1990, coinciding with the increase in caribou on the refuge (Table 19). In addition, several new packs have formed in the last year. Spring estimates have remained relatively constant. Wolf harvest went up during the winter of 1990-91.

A lack of funds, poor tracking conditions, and bad luck continued to plague our wolf collaring efforts in 1991. An attempt was made March 11-13 to collar several more packs. Several packs were located the first day after a fresh snow, but escaped before the helicopter could be brought in for darting. A female from what was thought to be the Central Pack was collared on March 11 but somehow managed to shed her collar on the 15. Poor lighting and snow conditions from caribou tracking prevented any further capture efforts that spring. The Cheslina Pack was spotted during the lynx capture work and a member darted on October 16, but escaped. A final effort was mounted on October 28-29 immediately after a fresh snow. The Cheslina Pack was located on the 28th, but by the time the helicopter was available on the 29th, poor lighting conditions and caribou tracking made relocating wolves impossible.

Two collars from wolves that used to be members of the Lick Creek Pack were returned in 1991. A male that was 2-years-old when last located in April of 1989 in the upper Nabesna River was found by the National Park Service on May 23 and it's collar retrieved on July 11, within a few miles of it's April 1989 location. Cause of death could not be determined. The alpha female from the Bear Creek Pack (which used to be the beta female in the Lick Creek Pack) was found dead by a pilot on October 23. Apparently this wolf was killed by another pack, perhaps the same pack that killed a puppy from this pack in March 1990. The Bear Creek Pack never

89 numbered more than four since it's formation in 1989. The radio from the alpha ) male of the Bear Creek Pack went off the air in April, with one erratic signal heard on October 21.

Wolves and wolf kills are becoming a more common occurrence on the Tetlin NWR as the number of caribou wintering on the refuge has increased. TNWR-48

I 90 Table 19. Estimated number of wolves in packs frequenting the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, 1985-1991. Counts were obtained by visual observation of wolves in appropriate pack range, radio-collared packs(*), and minimum number of wolves inferred by tracks (( )). Some spring figures were determined by subtracting harvest from fall count. Harvest estimate was obtianed from Alaska Department of Fish and Game sealing records and was allocated to the pack in the appropriate range.

1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 Pack name Fall Spring Fall Spring Fall Harvest Spring Fall Harvest Spring Fall Harvest Spring Fall Harvest Spring Fall

Big John 2 2 6 6 3 3 0 0 8 2 (6) (7) 2 Ladue 7 7 7 7 7 3 7 3 4 6 5 4 2 2 Cheslina 14 9 !5 *15 13 2 10 13 2 11 13 9 14 5 9 10 Northway 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 7 1 5 (6) Central 6 6 6 •6 12 3 9 4 4 6 (6) 6 1 *5 (2) Black 7 7 6 *2 *1 0 2 2 3 (3) 2 1 1 7 UckCreek 7 5 9 *9 *9 1 *9 *2 *2 *3 *3 *10 4 *6 *12 Black Hills 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 3 7 Scottie Creek (5) (5) 7 7 7 1 3 2 2 3 (3) 3 3 (7) Upper Nabesna 7 (17) 7 7 7 10 15 6 9 15 4 11 15 5 10 7 Carden Lake 5 (5) (3) 7 3 3 2 2 5 1 (4) 4 4 (6) Generic (7) (7) (12) (12) 7 4 3 3 4 4 8 1 7 7 \!) 1--1 Subtotal 56 57 50 41 54 50 39 66 54 82 60 43

10% loners 5 6 6 5 4 5 5 4 7 5 8 6 4

Total 51 62 63 55 45 7 59 55 11 43 73 7 59 90 22 66 47 Grizzly Bear

The grizzly is an important but little understood member of the refuge ecosystem. Grizzlies occur throughout the entire refuge, but are found in higher numbers in the foothills and mountains.

Black Bear

No estimates of population composition or total numbers are available for the refuge. Black bears exist in higher numbers in the northwestern and central portions of the refuge than they do in the foothill areas to the south.

Dall' s Sheep

Sheep are found only in the extreme southwestern portion of the refuge in the Mentasta Mountains. No surveys were conducted this year for Dall's sheep.

Mountain Goat

A mountain goat was observed above Jimmy Brown Lake, just southwest of the refuge in June. This animal is a long way out of it's normal range.

10. Other Resident Wildlife

Snowmachine transects have been established into American Wellesley and Jatahmund lakes to monitor the trend in furbearer abundance. These routes were not surveyed in 1991 because the manpower and snowmachines that were needed were not available. General impressions about the abundance and trends of the following resident wildlife are formed from incidental observation and other information obtained from refuge staff and users of the refuge.

Lynx

Lynx populations have historically been assessed on the basis of the State's sealing records and casual observation. The lynx population high of 1982-83 was preceded by a harvest of 12% kittens the previous season (Figure 10). The proportion of kittens in the harvest has been between 20% and 35% for the last four trapping seasons. However the harvest during the 1990-91 trapping season showed the first noticeable increase since the 1984-85 trapping season (Figure 10). This conflict

92 between the percent kittens in the harvest (indicative of production in the population) and total harvest is what prompted our study of the lynx population. One possible explanation for the trend in the harvest is the drop in lynx pelt prices the last several seasons may have resulted in a decrease in trapping intensity. Another explanation is overtrapping during the 1984-85 to 1986-87 season (when average pelt price was over $400) may have resulted in reduced breeding stock necessary to produce a large population increase. Trappers began seeing more sign of lynx production in 1991 as well as more lynx sign overall.

Figure 10. Lynx harvest from Alaska Department of Fish and Game Game Management Unit 12, 1977-91.

250 ,------,

Q ~ 200 ~ 150 ~ r:~

77-78 78-79 79-80 80-81 81-82 82-83 83-84 84-85 85-86 86-87 87-88 88-89 89-90 90-91 TRAPPING SEASON - Harvested Lynx - %Harvested Kittens

Snowshoe hare

Hare populations appear to be maintaining at moderate levels as in the last several years. A big increase expected of a hare high has yet to materialized. Hares began crashing in the adjacent Yukon Territory during November 1990 and continued to crash through 1991. Hare and lynx cycles on the Tetlin refuge seem to follow those in the Yukon by about a year.

93 Marten

Marten populations seemed to decline in 1991 throughout most of the refuge. Trappers have noticed a correlation between the number of marten and the number of lynx. As lynx become more abundant marten become less abundant. Most trappers on the refuge trap prefer to trap marten because of relatively higher pelt prices and the ease of catching.

Red Fox

Fox remain at high levels early in 1991 with the densest population found in the best waterfowl production areas in the northern third of the refuge. Several dens were found close to human habitation. By the end of 1991 trappers were asking where the fox were. We do not know.

Wolverine

At one time considered a common animal throughout the refuge, the wolverine is now primarily found in the foothills and mountainous areas where access is limited. Annual harvest from the refuge is less than five animals.

River Otter

Although not common, characteristic sign of this wetland furbearer can be found throughout the refuge wherever there is open water. Annual harvest from the refuge has varied from zero to nine.

Beaver

The highest concentration of beaver in the Upper Tanana Valley occurs in the Scottie­ Desper Creek area of the Tetlin NWR. Annual harvest from the refuge ranges from 0 to 30.

Muskrat

Muskrat populations remained at about the same level in 1991 as in 1990 and 1989, following a drastic decline from the winter of 1987-88.

94 Birds

Only a few bird species are resident on the refuge throughout the year. Grouse numbers dropped sharply in 1991 following an abundance in 1990 and 1989. Results of the Christmas Bird Count run near Tok is typical of the bird life that could be found on any given winter day on Tetlin NWR (Table 20). One difference in the last year has been the increase in woodpeckers as a result of the Tok River Burn of 1990.

Table 20 . Christmas Bird Count results from the Tok, Alaska area, 1988-91.

. Species 1988 1989 1990 1991

Common raven .44 63 62 97 Boreal chickadee 15 28 9 9 Gray jay 12 20 6 2 Black-capped chickadee 5 15 2 Redpoll spp. 2 2 11 Black-billed magpie 1 5 1 White-winged crossbilL 74 4 Hairy woodpecker 1 1 Sharp-tailed grouse 9 Black-backed woodpecker 4 Three-toed woodpecker 2 Willow ptarmigan 2 Downy woodpecker 1 Great homed owl 1 Spruce grouse 1

Number of species 7 9 7 9 Number of individuals 88 133 159 131

95 )

Common and hoary redpolls are sporadic year around residents on the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. TNWR- 49, 4-90, KOD

11. Fishery Resources

Montie Millard of the Fairbanks Fishery Assistance Office, visited the refuge in June and reviewed potential fishery study areas.

12. Wildlife Propagation and Stocking

Rainbow trout have been stocked at Hidden Lake along the highway by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game since 1982. The lake was restocked by refuge staff in August. Rainbow trout fingerlings were provided by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game hatchery at Elmendorf AFB.

I 96 16. Marking and Banding

Fifty-four trumpeter swans and one tundra swan were captured and marked with visual neck collars and aluminum leg bands. One tundra swan that was captured was not banded. See section G.3. for more details.

Thirteen lynx were captured, immobilized with Telazol and equipped with radio transmitters as part of the refuge lynx study. See section D.5. for more details.

Five cow moose and one bull moose were captured and equipped with radio collars as part of a cooperative project with the local school district. See section G.B. for more details.

97 H. PUBLIC USE

1. General

A directed purpose of the refuge as a result of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, is to provide opportunities for interpretation and environmental education. The Tetlin NWR's unique location along both the Alaska-Canada border and the Alaska Highway makes it the first conservation area that visitors driving to Alaska see. It is one of only two Alaskan refuges accessible by road. The Alaska Highway forms the refuge's northern boundary for approximately 65 miles, providing excellent views of the refuge and opportunities for interpretation. As the first contact for most highway travellers to Alaska, we serve an important statewide orientation role for all refuges and other conservation areas. The refuge public use program is concentrated along the highway corridor. Table 21 summarizes the public use activities on Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge in 1991.

98 Table 21. Summary of Public Use activities on the Tetlin NWR in 1991.

ACTIVITY #VISITS ACTIVITY HRS

Interpretation

Tetlin NWR Visitor Center 33,000 16,500 Tok Headquarters 750 375 Wildlife Films - Tok ft...PLIC 8,361 4,181 Ak Hwy Interpretive Stations 70,659 17,665 Taiga Trail 1,500 1,500

Total 114,270 40,355

Environmental Education

Teachers 100 150 Students 1,200 3,200

Total 1,300 3,350

Non-consumptive Recreation

Wildland/Wildlife Observation 70,659 70,659 Photography 35,330 17,665 Picnicking 4,240 4,240 Canoeing, Rafting, Boating 100 800 Camping 7,713 92,556

Total 118,042 185,920

Consumptive Recreation

Hunting 1,300 10,400 Fishing 1,513 3,226 Trapping 108 648 Other Subsistence Activities 100 500

Total 3,021 14,774

GRAND TOTAL 266,633 244,369

99 Traffic along the Alaska Highway continued heavy during the summer months, peaking in July. The number of travelers entering Alaska via the Port of Alcan and via Poker Creek (Top of the World Highway) were up from 1989. Most highway travelers pass along the northern refuge boundary twice, on their way in and on their way out of the state. Table 22 shows the visitation along the highway for the past five years.

Table 22. Visitation along the Alaska Highway 1986-91.

Entering via Entering via Year Poker Creek Port of Alcan Total

1986 19,768 19,256 139,024 1987 24,332 96,606 120,938 1988 29,374 106,602 135,976 1989 25,050 109,132 134,182 1990 27,618 115,866 143,484 1991 26,500 114,818 141,318

Additions to the public use program this year included a fossil exhibit, a "hands on" mammal tracks display, and a "measure up to wildlife" (height of animals compared to humans) display, all at the visitor center. A new television monitor replaced the old one at the visitor center. It is used to automatically show short films about the refuge and the Service.

2. Outdoor Classroom - Students

For the fourth consecutive year, the refuge conducted summer Nature Day Camp's for area children. These camps remain popular with our children and their parents, and are an important part of the refuge's environmental education program. Student Trainee (Biology) Jeff Melegari, with the help of regular and summer staff, conducted six different camps for children in grades K-8th for the communities of Tok, Tanacross, Dot Lake, Mentasta, and Northway. Jeff enthusiastically introduced students to more insights about our wildlife and its local habitat through "hands on" activities, many in the out-of-doors.

The fifth Nature Activity Day was held on April27, 1991. It was held on the Saturday following National Wildlife Week. This year's theme was on the Arctic, specifically Alaska's arctic. Sixty-four youngsters in grade K-7 attended. Ten parents and friends again graciously assisted.

100 )

)

Nature Activity Day attract sixty-four area children to a day of fun and games. TNWR-50

PR Dapkus and PR Perham blitzed the entire Alaska Gateway School District again this year during National Wildlife Week. The school district is small enough so that every school and almost every classroom can be visited by refuge staff. At the end of the week almost every student in the district had been exposed to National Wildlife Week activities. Twenty-three presentations were given to 350 students, accounting for 500 activity hours.

The aftermath of the 1990 Tok River Fire continues to provide an excellent opportunity for environmental education. FMO Vanderlinden conducted fire ecology activities for 40 students in the Tok 4th and 5th grade classes. The activities included two field trips into the Tok River Burn, where groups in each class set up vegetation sample points on transects lined out by FMO Vanderlinden. New plant growth and

/ ) 101 photo points were documented at each point. This is the second year of showcasing successional vegetation changes in the boreal forest, and giving the students firsthand knowledge of positive aspects of fire effects. FMO Vanderlinden, PR Dapkus, BT Peter Butteri, BT Elisa Butteri, and two teachers rode herd over the students on the field trip.

)

Fourth and fifth graders from Tok School eagerly participate annually in a fire effects study set up on a local burn by the refuge staff. TNWR-51, 9-91, LAV

) / 102 An additional fire effects field trip was arranged for Walter Northway Public School students to a small burn site near Northway. New plant growth and photo points were documented by the students on a transect established by FMO Vanderlinden. FMO Vanderlinden, PR Perham, BT Peter Butteri and BT Elisa Butteri supervised the students in the activity.

Numerous other special classroom activities were conducted throughout the year by PR Dapkus and PR Perham. Most of the sessions were set up to teach special wildlife subjects.

A cooperative moose telemetry study was initiated with the Walter Northway Public School. This one year environmental education study was funded through the Challenge Grant Program. Six moose were captured and radio collared. Three of the collars also were equipped with satellite transmitters. During the capture operations eleven students and their advisor Dale Lackner were able to observe the field processing of the immobilized moose.

The students received "hands on" experience in the practice of radio telemetry, capturing and immobilization techniques, an understanding of seasonal moose movements in the area surrounding Northway, and other related wildlife management techniques.

103 Radio collared cow moose gets a friendly and comforting pat on the snout by a Walter Northway Public School student. The student received "hands on" experience in a variety of wildlife management techniques through a cooperative moose telemetry study. TNWR-52, 4-91, HKT

The increasingly friendly relations and "glastnost" being promoted between Alaska and its Far East neighbor the Soviet Union, have resulted in many cultural exchanges. Tok and the refuge was no exception. Refuge Headquarters were visited on three separate times by a group of Russian teachers and/ or schoolchildren from Siberia as part of an exchange between the Alaska Gateway School District. Brief introductions to the NWR system and Tetlin NWR were often through an interpreter. PR Perham provided hands-on familiarization with some of the animals found in this area through the use of furs, skulls and pictures. RM Breeser and family hosted two members of a Russian girls basketball team for about three weeks. RM Breeser still does not understand Russian, but the girls definitely understood ice cream, moose sausage, and Pepsi.

I 104 3. Outdoor Classrooms- Teachers

FMO Vanderlinden, PR Perham, and PR Dapkus provided both initial writing and extensive review of draft products on two new environmental education curriculums being developed within the region. Several weeks worth of work have been directed into the "Teach about Fire" and "Teach about Wetlands" curriculums. The "Teach about Fire" curriculum is designed for use by the Interior refuges at schools in their areas. Much of this material has been field tested over the past two years at local schools by FMO Vanderlinden and PR Perham. The role of fire in boreal forests of Interior Alaska is often misunderstood. It is our intention for student to receive a better understanding of fire ecology through the use of this curriculum, but that at the same time making the learning process fun and student "friendly". PR Dapkus provided detailed review suggestions on the "Teach about Wetlands" curriculum both in writing and in conversations with the regional Environmental Education Coordinator.

The "Taiga Treasure," an educator's guide to the Tetlin NWR, is an environmental education resource packet prepared annually that was again distributed to new teachers district-wide. The "Taiga Treasure" features interior Alaska ecology, focusing on the Tetlin NWR. It includes information about the refuge, suggested activities, and reference and resource information. It was designed to incorporate "Alaskanized" environmental education materials into their classroom activities as well as encourage teachers to break out of their classrooms and experience unique outdoor learning opportunities throughout this area.

Three new films and four new books were added to the environmental education resource library. The materials in the library are available on request to area teachers.

4. Interpretive Foot Trails

"Taiga Trail", a 3/4 mile loop nature trail located in Deadman Lake campground, was finished in 1991 (see Section E.2.). An observation deck was constructed on the shore of Deadman Lake at the end of the trail. Most campground visitors walked the trail and relaxed on the observation deck benches and watched wildlife along the lake.

105 The observation deck at the end of the "Taiga Trail" provides a welcome place for the refuge visitor to relax and observe wildlife. TNWR-53, 8-91, SWB

5. Interpretive Tour Routes

The Alaska Highway serves as the northern boundary of the refuge for approximately 65 miles starting at the Alaska/Canada border. In addition to substantial private tourist traffic, several major tour companies travel this section of highway via motorcoach as part of their Alaska tours.

The refuge has developed a interpretive tour route along the highway. The route is bounded on each end by the Tetlin NWR Visitor Center near the Alaska/Yukon border and the Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Tok. Seven roadside interpretive pullout displays are currently in place along this route. These pullouts are popular rest stops and the exhibits are a welcome attraction.

I 106 Three additional roadside interpretive pullout displays, including the Wrangell-St. ) Elias National Park pullout display, were installed early this summer. The Alaska Highway as it borders the refuge, provides many excellent scenic vistas and occasional opportunities for wildlife observation. The Tetlin Passage newspaper includes a milepost natural history guide for highway travelers. An audio tour cassette for the tour route was prepared this year. Duplication and distribution will take place in 1992.

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Some of the officials that attended the dedication of the international interpretive display on the Alaska-Canada border included (left to right), Executive Director of the Great Alaska Highway Society Susie Kemp, State of Alaska Lt. Governor Jack Coghill, Yukon Territory Commissioner Ken McKinnon, Yukon Territory Deputy Minister of Tourism Josephine Stewart, and Alaska State Senator Richard Schultz. TNWR-54, 7-91, SWB

) f 107 An international interpretive display, planned and built through interagency efforts, was finished and dedicated this summer. The display straddles the boundary between Canada's Yukon Territory and Alaska. The display theme celebrated the joint efforts of Canada and the U.S. in constructing the Alaska Highway during WWII. Lt. Governor Jack Coghill of Alaska and Commissioner Ken McKinnon of the Yukon Territory jointly cut the ribbon opening the kiosk on July 18, 1991.

6. Interpretive Exhibits/Demonstrations

During the summer of 1990 PR Perham and the YCC crew discovered a paleoentological site along one of the streams on the refuge. With permission from the regional office, a surface collection of bones was made of five different animal species--steppe bison, beaver, Dall's sheep, horse, and woolly mammoth. Although it was not a spectacular site and the bones were not museum quality, they are perfect for public display. PR Perham designed a "hands-on" fossil exhibit for the refuge visitor center, which went on display in July. Maintenanceman Carlson built a beautiful oak display cabinet with the assistance of PR Perham for the paleoentological bones.

This year the scope of interpretive programs was expanded to accommodate a wider spectrum of the public. The ever-popular summer wildlife film presentations at the Alaska Public Lands Information Center (APLIC) in Tok were continued (Table 23).

Table 23. Annual Attendance at FWS Wildlife Movie Programs - Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Tok, Alaska

YEAR #SHOWS ATTENDANCE AVG/SHOW ACTIVITY HRS

1987 324 10,682 33 5,341 1988 597 8,467 14 4,234 1989 634 9,424 15 4,712 1990 444 5,779 13 2,890 1991 689 8,361 12 4,181

TOTALS 1999 34,352 17 17,177

The Discovery Hike, which was started in 1990, was offered twice weekly from late June through early August in 1991. The Discovery Hike is a nature walk through the community of Tok starting from the Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Tok. About 50 visitor's enjoyed these 1/2 hour walks. Hopefully more visitors will join us

108 next season. Deckside interpretive talks were conducted at the Tetlin Visitor Center and Deadman Lake campground. With the new observation deck at the campground these talks are expected to draw more visitor's in the future.

During the 1991 104 day summer season (May 26 to September 7), visitation at the visiter center increased significantly over 1989 (the first year the center was open). The visitor center received 30,000 visitors in 1990, and 33,000 in 1991. The visitor contact area at refuge headquarters in Tok is also a popular stop for tourists to the area. Approximately 750 visitors came to the office in 1991.

The refuge actively cooperates in the Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Tok by providing two seasonal volunteer employees. This busy center had 43,692 visitors in 1991. Approximately 90 percent of this traffic came during the months of June, July and August.

7. Other Interpretive Programs

Refuge Remarks, a regular column in Tok's bi-monthly newspaper, the Mukluk News, completed its fifth volume this year. These 26 news releases remain an effective means of relating refuge happenings, and provide environmental education and interpretive information to the area's residents.

The Tetlin Passage, is a four page natural history newspaper about the refuge. A four page insert to the newspaper was completed and printed with Alaska Natural History Association funding in 1990. This insert provides information about fire as a habitat management tool, information on refuge interpretive activities, information about the Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Tok, information about Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, and provides some wildlife educational activities for children.

The refuge general brochure was updated and reprinted this year, and some 10,000 copies are ready for the coming summer season.

John Page and his assistant Jill Delahunt spent two weeks on the refuge filming and gathering information for a book that will soon be published. John has been hired by the Alaska Natural History Association to produce a book on the internationally significant lands within the boundaries of Kluane National Park and Kluane Provincial Game Sanctuary in Canada, and Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge in the U.S. These areas collectively form one of the largest contiguous areas of public lands in the world. The Alaska Natural History Association plans on using the proceeds of this book to fund publication of additional books on Alaska's public lands.

109 8. Hunting

The entire refuge is open to hunting in accordance with state and federal regulations. Although hunting pressure is usually light, due primarily to the lack of access to the refuge's interior, some hunting does occur in the vicinity of the Alaska Highway, Northway Village, and along navigable bodies of water.

Late in 1989 the Alaska Supreme Court ruled that the designation of subsistence users with rural and non-rural criteria was unconstitutional. Therefore, most winter subsistence hunting seasons were halted by the state. The state did not find another means to regulate subsistence versus sport hunts in 1990, resulting in the federal government taking over the management of subsistence hunts on Federal owned land. This forced the Service in conjunction with other Federal land managing agencies to implement their own set of regulations to provide subsistence opportunities. In addition to the normal State seasons which had been adopted into the Federal Subsistence Regulations, the Tetlin Refuge opened a subsistence moose hunt for the second year in a row, from November 20 to November 30. A subsistence caribou hunt was also opened from November 12 to December 8, 1991 to harvest animals from the Nelchina/Mentasta herds.

The moose season was established to provide an additional opportunity for GMU 12 hunters to harvest moose in the more inaccessible areas of the refuge. This late season would give hunters a chance to access moose by snowmachine. We expected the pressure to be relatively light because it takes quite a bit of preparation to make a two or three day hunting trip twenty miles into the refuge in the dead of winter. To our knowledge, only eight hunters made attempts to hunt and no moose were known to have been taken.

The caribou hunt was by Federal permit only. It was limited to only residents of the villages of Northway and Tetlin. Refuge staff issued 118 permits to residents in the two villages. By the end of the year we had received 88 permits back indicating a harvest of 25 caribou.

The refuge currently has two special use permittees for hunting guide and charter operations. Both of these permittee actively hunted the refuge. A statewide guide and charter policy is being developed, and the refuge is currently under a moratorium disallowing any additional permittees until the policy is finalized. During 1991 the State of Alaska failed to develop their policy. The Service is in the process of formally developing our own guide service plan for all refuge lands in Alaska. This plan is in draft form and is currently out for public review.

Most hunters visiting the refuge are in pursuit of waterfowl and their efforts are primarily concentrated in the areas of Fish Lake, Desper- Scottie Creek, Tenmile­ Stuver Creek, and the Kalutna River areas. Pressure is usually light, rarely exceeding

110 50 hunters per day. On opening day, refuge law enforcement officers found very light pressure on the Fish Lake complex. The absence of the one usual guiding operation, owing to his arrest in 1988 and prison sentence in 1989 for waterfowl violations, greatly reduced the airboat traffic.

Low water levels limited access to many of the refuge wetlands. This resulted in even lower hunting pressure than in the past. Alaska's bag limits remain substantially more liberal than those "outside", at eight ducks a day for this area (with the exception that only two could be pintails and only one could be a canvasback). The most common species in the bag were mallard, pintail, shoveler and green-winged teal.

Big Game

Moose are the primary target of big game hunters on the refuge. Most activity occurs along major lakes and rivers. Access is via float planes, boats and on foot. Road hunting along the Alaska Highway is very popular among the residents of Northway. Although no precise means for documenting harvest exist (except for harvest ticket returns), it is felt that the overall harvest has remained unchanged from recent years. The area's reputation for low moose populations is a major factor in the limited number of hunters.

The abundance of caribou on the refuge again this fall provided an alternative for subsistence meat diets. Caribou were readily available during both the state registration and federal administered subsistence hunts. Over 800 hunters used refuge lands during the state hunt. All in all, the refuge should have provided meat for anyone who was willing to work a little for it in 1991.

The Tok area is well known for its Dall's sheep. The refuge itself is of lesser acclaim, but non-permit areas such as the refuge highlands are of increasing interest to hunters.

Both black and grizzly bear are hunted on the refuge, but they are primarily taken incidental to other big game hunts.

9. Fishing

Subsistence fishing for whitefish and burbot continues by villagers on Moose Creek, the Kalutna River, and the Chisana River. Local sport fishermen utilize Jatahmund Lake, American Wellesley Lake, and the Scottie-Desper Creek areas.

111 Non-local sport fishing occurs primarily along the Alaska Highway, with the majority of use coming from visitors who stop at anything that looks like a stream crossing. Fish stocks, primarily grayling, have been over harvested or depleted in most accessible areas. Fly-in sport fishing occurs on Jatahmund Lake, American Wellesley Lake and Takomahto Lake. Fisherman usually report that the scenic qualities and the wilderness experience are more appreciated than the fishing success which is sometimes as low as one or two fish per person per day. The stocked rainbow trout fishery at Hidden Lake is receiving increased use, both by locals in the winter months and non-locals in the summer. The lake is primarily used by residents of Northway. Limits of fish reported up to 22 inches in length are not uncommon.

10. Trapping

Subsistence trapping is carried out on refuge lands by local residents. Although a significant amount of trapping occurs in areas within the boundaries of the refuge, much of it occurs on private inholdings, and is centered around the village of Northway and the lands to the northeast. Seven trappers have established traplines that reach to the central portions of the refuge. Two airplane trappers are known to trap in the more remote southern sections of the refuge. Table 24 displays the numbers of animals taken on Tetlin NWR base on Alaska Department of Fish and Game sealing records.

Primary furbearers captured include muskrat, marten, red fox and lynx. The price for martin fur was up somewhat from last year with average price being around $60 and tops at around $90. The price for lynx was about the same as last year and averaged $100. Red fox were plentiful, and brought about $20- the same price as last year. Muskrat populations continue to fall, due mainly to freeze out. Most muskrats are trapped in the spring at "push-ups" or feeder houses. This normal process was hampered by the presence of a large number of caribou in traditional trapping areas which totally destroyed the push-ups. Apparently, caribou relish the aquatic plants which muskrats push up on the ice because they totally destroy or consume each feeder house present on a lake.

Beaver occur in moderate densities throughout the refuge, but little trapping effort takes place for this species. Beaver are generally trapped when they are prime in March or April which makes it difficult because the ice is so thick. Even though prices have improved somewhat, most trappers are discouraged from going after beaver because of the amount of work involved for the price received. What few beaver are taken are usually trapped by natives who then tan them and sew the hides into artifacts for sale.

Trapping is still looked upon as an integral part of life to the Alaskan lifestyle, and is still an important economic activity for many rural residents.

112 Table 24. Furbearer harvest on the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge based on Alaska Department of Fish and Game sealing records.

Season Wolf Wolverine Otter Beaver

1977-78 12 5 5 0 1978-79 5 3 6 0 1979-80 1 5 0 0 1980-81 5 0 0 0 1981-82 7 4 0 0 1982-83 3 3 1 0 1983-84 6 4 1 0 1984-85 2 2 1 29 1985-86 8 4 2 2 1986-87 5 2 0 28 1987-88 1 0 9 4 1988-89 0 1 0 5 1989-90 2 4 0 4 1990-91 24 5 1 13

11. Wildlife Observation

The Alaska Highway provides limited opportunities for wildlife observation. Several locations along the highway are excellent areas for viewing waterfowl. Increased visitation to the state, coupled with the development of our interpretive facilities, has certainly resulted in increased wildlife observation. It is estimated that 25 percent of all Alaska Highway travelers participate in wildlife/wildland photography, and that another 50 percent actively pursue wildlife/wildland observation. The number of non-consumptive recreational users canoeing, rafting and boating on the refuge is experiencing a modest increase. These uses are estimated at 100 user days per year and 800 activity hours.

13. Camping

The refuge operates two campgrounds, Deadman Lake and Lakeview. Deadman Lake has sixteen campsites and Lakeview has eight. Throughout the summer months these small campgrounds are filled to capacity. A new informational kiosk was built at Deadman Lake campground this summer. It's popularity was noted when we could not keep it stocked with pamphlets.

113 In addition to the campgrounds, there is substantial overnight use by recreational and other vehicles at the roadside pullouts. It is estimated that one percent of highway travelers overnight at undesignated locations along the refuge's boundary.

Biology Instructor Jim Wolfe and his class from Houghton College in New York canoed Desper Creek. They provided the refuge with insight into the possibility of establishing a primitive camping/ canoe route along the water course.

14. Picnicking

There is one official picnic area located along Lhe Alaska Highway along the south side of the Alaska Highway. It is currently under the management of the State of Alaska Department of Transportation but it is maintained by refuge staff through an informal agreement. This and other roadside pullouts are popular picnic areas, as approximately three percent of highway travelers use the sites for this purpose.

15. Off-Road Vehicling

Although permitted on designated trails by virtue of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, the refuge is closed to off-road vehicles. Limited off-road vehicling does occur, however, during the hunting season along drainage bottoms. This is allowed because the state has jurisdiction below mean high water mark of all navigable waters. Little or no resultant damage occurs from this limited use.

17. Law Enforcement

Most enforcement activities are of a preventative nature through information dissemination and high profile during the hunting season. As in past years, waterfowl hunting parties in the more heavily utilized areas were contacted, and given regulations and time tables. Any regulation changes were also discussed. This practice has been found to be extremely useful in gaining compliance.

Jim Sheridan, Assistant Special Agent-in-Charge from the Regional Office was detailed to the refuge during the opening weekend of waterfowl season to assist with the law enforcement efforts. Abnormally low water levels made many of the traditional heavily utilized areas inaccessible to most hunters. Only the diehard waterfowl hunters were found afield. Those checked were found to be most cooperative and in compliance with the 1991 hunting regulations.

A considerable amount of time was spent in the field during the Federal subsistence caribou hunt in November. Special Agents Mark Webb and Stan Pruszenski assisted with the effort. With their help, the refuge had good coverage and monitoring of the

114 hunt. The hunt went very well due in large part to the high profile presence of Service enforcement people being in the field.

The refuge staff foresees a real dilemma arising for the Refuge Officers who are monitoring and covering the Federal subsistence hunts but lack State law enforcement authority. Since the Federal government has taken over the responsibility of establishing regulations that allows the taking of resident wildlife for subsistence purposes, the realm of setting resident wildlife hunting season no longer lies just with the State. The fact that the Federal government is permitting hunters to be in the field puts a certain amount of liability on them to control the actions of these hunters. How is the Refuge Officer without State authority suppose to handle situations where they encounter people attempting to take wildlife on non-federal land while holding a federal issued permit? Or in the case of the Tetlin, catching people shooting from vehicles on state roads or shooting from the road? The Regional Office is working on this dilemma.

The refuge law enforcement officers are still dealing with a spring subsistence waterfowl season that is technically illegal by law, but is allowed under regional policy. Public meetings are being held in the villages of Northway and Tetlin concerning the spring subsistence waterfowl hunting activities. Hopefully these meetings are maintain status quo and there is no significant increase in the taking of spring migrating waterfowl on or near the refuge. The current situation creates a no win scenario for us as professional managers, and generally pits natives against non­ natives. Given the current status of waterfowl populations, the continued practice of allowing a spring hunt is extremely hard to justify biologically, even if it is based on cultural and traditional values. The curtain effort by the Service to have the Migratory Bird Treaty amended so that it would provide for a Spring Subsistence Season is felt to be a step in the right direction. It would be most helpful for the law enforcement officer in the field to have either a legal season or a closed season.

RM Breeser and ARM Schulz attended the annual Fish and Wildlife Law Enforcement workshop. There was a good showing of Canadian Conservation Officers at the workshop, which allowed for a good discussion of law enforcement problems and ideas from both sides of the border.

RM Breeser journeyed to Marana, Arizona, in March for the 40-hour law enforcement refresher. RM Breeser and ARM Schulz were re-qualified with revolvers during September in Fairbanks.

115 18. Cooperating Associations

The Alaska Natural History Association (ANHA) sales outlet is in its seventh year of operation. The Tetlin NWR Visitor Center was opened for only its second full season in 1991. A large jump in sales was noted last year, but until we have at least 3 full years of average operation at the Visitor Center an accurate estimate of annual sales will not be known. In this period we are also learning what visitors want as well as what residents want; this differs throughout Alaska according to ANHA. Sales in 1992 also may not be average because of the 50th year celebration of the building of the Alaska Highway. During the winter months when the visitor center is closed, the office outlet remains open. Sales for the period from 1985-91 are shown in Table 25.

Table 25. Sales from 1985-91, Alaska Natural History Association Outlet, Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge.

YEAR SALES %CHANGE

1985 875 0 1986 1,122 +28 1987 1,131 0 1988 2,240 +100 1989 14,585 +700 1990 25,423 +74 1991 21,600 -3

116 I. EQUIPMENT AND FACILITIES

1. New Construction

Maintenanceman Carlson, with the able assistance of the rest of the refuge staff and YCC crew, was kept busy with a number of new construction projects. A kiosk and information station was constructed at the Deadman Lake Campground. The finial touches were added to the Taiga Nature Trail with the signing and construction of the observation deck. The observation deck overlooks Deadman Lake at the end of the Taiga trail and has received considerable use by campground users.

The kiosk at Deadman Lake Campground was constructed by Maintenanceman Carlson with assistance from the YCC and SCA crews. TNWR-55, 9-91, SWB

/ 117 Pipe gates were constructed at the entrances of both Lakeview and Deadman Lake campgrounds. The gates were needed to control vehicle traffic in the early spring while the roads are soft. We did not like to see the gates go up since they represent another form of governmental control to the locals but we could not afford to let the road system be destroyed by a few four-wheel drive vehicles either.

A contract was let to finish the construction of the highway informational turnout at Highway Lake and the trailhead parking area at Hidden Lake. Both areas were built through a challenge grant with the Alaskan Department of Transportation. They provided equipment and materials to construct both areas and the Service provided the vehicle barriers,environmental information panels and highway signing for both areas.

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The parking area for the Hidden Lake trailhead was completed through a challenge grant with the Alaska Department of Transportation. TNWR-56, 8-91, SWB

118 Over the years as the refuge's programs have been developed and expanded our office space became totally inadequate. With the office lease being up for renewal in November, we were able to work through CGS to double both our office and storage space.

The landlord of our existing office space was the low bidder for the requested new space. He was able to provide the increased space by connecting the existing office to a building in back of it. The new office space provided room for three new offices, a large conference room, map and photo storage area and space for a heated lab/storage area. With this additional space we will no longer have to place our seasonal staff in the hallways or the conference room.

A four-stall garage/ storage building was built behind the office complex. It is large enough to provide room for all the refuge vehicles, river boats, canoes, and other related equipment. For the first time all of our equipment has a roof over its head and is not being left out in a snowbank somewhere.

2. Rehabilitation

Work continued at the Northway Bunkhouse and Warehouse area. New floor covering, kitchen cabinets and sink were installed in the backroom of the warehouse. A new stove and refrigerator were ordered and once installed will provide a welcome addition to the refuge's seasonal housing.

Wooden storage shelves and closets were constructed in all four refuge residences basements and garages. They really help in making the existing space more usable.

3. Major Maintenance

The entire log surfaces on the inside of the Visitor Center were sealed with Rawhide sealant to maintain the natural appearance. The logs had started to show signs of discoloring mainly from little hands.

The rugs at the Visitor Center, bunkhouse, Office and all four refuge residences were cleaned at the end of the summer field season. Nearly all of the traffic patterns sign in the Visitor Center rug were removed making it look almost as good as new again.

The "C" Street refuge residence received a considerable amount of work while it was vacant between Assistant Refuge Managers. New floor covering was placed in the kitchen and dining area. All inside wall were patched and painted. Wood was placed over the bottoms of the window sill. The light fixtures in the dinning area was centered and replaced. And all the walls in the basement were taped and painted.

119 )

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New floor covering is a welcome addition to the "C" Street residence. TNWR-57, 3-91, DC

The Sanford refuge residence outside was restrained and trim painted. It was freshly stained in 1990, but there was a problem with the stain itself and it needed to be redone to provide adequate coverage and protection.

4. Equipment Utilization and Replacement

This was the year for new vehicles. The refuge received a 1991 Chevy 2x4 pickup, a 1991 Dodge Caravan and a 1991 one ton Chevy 4x4 that will be the foundation for our new fire truck.

The Alaska road system continues to keep local windshield repairmen in business. Two windshields were replaced on refuge vehicles during the year. The new Dodge

I ) 120 Caravan did not survive the first trip from Anchorage to Tok without getting its windshield nicked.

A number of equipment purchases were made during the year:

1. Two (2) spotting scopes 2. One (1) heavy duty rug cleaner 3. One (1) 15' aluminum canoe 4. Three (3) Stihl chain saws 5. One (1) Stihl brush cutter 6. Three (3) UHF radios and four (4) mobile VHF radios 7. One (1) permanent remote weather station 8. One (1) 386 desktop computer 9. One (1) Computrac moisture analyzer

In July our Super Cub N3685Z incurred a major oil leak fourteen hours short of the required 2,000-hour overhaul. Due to the inaccessibility of the broken oil fitting it was decided to forego the fourteen hours left on the engine and have it overhauled.

We were unable to ferry the airplane to a maintenance facility, so the engine was removed in the field and sent to New York for the overhaul. The Office of Aircraft Services (OAS) promised to have the engine back in 14 days but from prior experience with the overhaul shops we were betting on six weeks to two months. We were short of the 60 day guess by four days. 56 days after the engine was removed it was reinstalled!

The straw that broke the camels back was when OAS informed us that our prop needed to be sent in for an overhaul also after it had sat in our hanger for the previous 56 days during the engine overhaul. We were promised it would be ready in two days. Eight days later, it was mounted on the plane and we were back in the air again.

We were fortunate that Selawik and Koyukuk/Nowitna refuges made their aircraft available to the Tetlin Refuge so that we could continue our field work while waiting for our engine to be overhauled. Without their cubs our field season would have been in serious trouble.

A small lot sale was conducted by GSA for 23 items that were declared excess by the refuge. We were fortunate that all 23 items were sold and picked up.

121 5. Communications Systems

The refuge communications system includes a UHF base station at refuge headquarters, a UHF-VHF base link on a mountaintop adjacent to the northern boundary of the refuge, and a VHF repeater site on a mountaintop in the southwest comer of the refuge. Three UHF portable radios with directional antennas were installed at the residences of the refuge manager, assistant refuge manager and fire management officer. These UHF portables emulate the base station, which allow direct contact after hours between field personnel and refuge staff. A radio telephone interface is installed at refuge headquarters, which allows access to the phone system from anywhere on the refuge via VHF mobile or portable radio. All refuge vehicles and the refuge aircraft are equipped with 14 channel mobile VHF radios, and eight handheld 14 channel VHF radios are available for staff assigned to the field. In addition, the refuge has two handheld VHF aircraft radios which are used during staff field assignments when local air taxi aircraft are chartered for refuge activities.

The radio system has been very reliable. Coverage is excellent for 95% of the refuge. Maintenance and tuning activities performed on the base link and repeater in May 1991, resulted in a major improvement in signal strength. Contact can even be made from the floatplane base 50 miles northwest of the refuge to refuge headquarters in Tok and anywhere on the refuge. In fact, the refuge radio coverage and reliability has been so good, that the Tok Area Forestry office has requested authorization to utilize our system during fire emergencies on the refuge because their own system has poor coverage in that area.

The refuge telephone system consists of three rotating outside lines, a dedicated facsimile machine line, and a dedicated radio-telephone interface line. FTS is currently accessed via a 800 number and authorization code. A work order for two dedicated FTS lines was approved and is expected to be completed in 1992.

The refuge currently owns two permanent Remote Automatic Weather Stations (RAWS) and one mobile Remote Automatic Weather Station. One of the permanent stations is located at Milepost 1244 Alaska Highway and one is located southwest of Jatahmund Lake. The mobile station can be set up at specific prescribed burn sites. All three stations are equipped and programmed to transmit hourly data to a satellite that is a component of the Alaska Initial Attack Management System (AIAMS). This weather data is archived by the BLM, Alaska Fire Service and can be accessed at any time from refuge headquarters via modem. The weather data sampled and archived includes air temperature, relative humidity, fuel temperature, fuel moisture, wind speed, wind direction, peak wind gust and direction, precipitation and barometric pressure. Additional sensors purchased in 1991 which will be installed at one of the permanent RAWS in 1992 will allow measurement of soil moisture and snow water content. Each RAWS is also equipped with a radio and voice synthesizer, and can be accessed directly via VHF radio for real time observations via VHF radio.

122 The permanent stations operate year round and are accessible either by float/ ski plane or vehicle for maintenance. Batteries are kept charged with 50 watt solar panels. The Jatahmund station sustained bear damage during the fall and was not operating for a few months. Although the permanent stations were obtained by the refuge primarily to provide weather data as part of the statewide AIAMS, the weather information obtained and archived is invaluable for a variety of refuge applications and activities.

6. Computer Systems.

The refuge computer system consists of two 386 desktop PC's, two 286 desktop PC's, a 386 Laptop PC, a peripheral sharing device, a flatbed scanner, a Laserjet printer, a dot matrix printer, and a Paintjet color printer. One of the 386s and the Paintjet printer were received and fncorporated into the system in 1991. An additional 386 desktop PC, peripheral sharing device and Laserjet printer were ordered in late 1991. The system is in the process of being expanded due to the new office configuration at the refuge headquarters. Two of the desktop PCs and the Laptop that are in use are equipped with modems. The PC system currently in use on the refuge has been very dependable and flexible enough to meet the evolving needs of the staff. The antiquated Data General 10SP mini-computer acquired in 1984 (which has not been used for the past two years), was sold as excess property in 1991.

7. Energy Conservation

The refuge housing hot water and boiler systems were gone over with the Regional Engineer while he was conducting the station's safety inspection. He has come up with a modification that will allow the electric hot water heaters to be eliminated from the system. The houses will rely entirely on the heating boiler to provide the domestic hot water supply. Electricity is currently being generated through the use of diesel generators and is costing approximately 23 cents per kilowatt. When compared to $1.05 per gallon for fuel oil considerable energy and cost saving should occur.

The major appliances in each of the refuge's houses are gradually being replaced because of their age and normal wear and tear. They are being replaced with more energy efficient versions. In 1991, the clothes washers and dishwashers were replaced in each of the houses. The electric stove in the Midnight Sun house was replaced with a more efficient propane stove. As the other electric stoves need replacement they will be replaced with more efficient propane stoves.

123 J. OTHER ITEMS

1. Cooperative Programs

A cooperative moose telemetry study was signed into agreement with Walter Northway Public School. The agreement called·for placing satellite collars on three moose with satellite information going to the school for use by the science students. The experience for the students included the collaring of the animals, the use of dart guns, and the drugs effect on the moose. Data received is being shared with the school's science class. This project is a "hands on" environmental education experience for the students and develops good community relations, as well as a good study project for the refuge.

Cooperation with the Wrangell St. Elias National Park/Preserve continued in 1991. In the agreement, the refuge and park staffs exchange data and use of facilities and meet at least once a year to discuss annual programs. The cooperation paid off again this year when we conducted the lynx study and the subsistence permit caribou hunt. Good working relationships are essential with the park since it shares a common boundary with the refuge on our southern boundary.

A yearly agreement to enter on lands of the Tetlin Indian Reserve did not materialize this year. Working relationships with the president of the Tetlin Corporation are very difficult to achieve. He wants us to use their air charter company to do some of our work. This is a condition that would be accepted if they were OAS certified but the fact is they are not most of the time. This situation has been explained many times but not with much success. He did however, offer us a two day permit which allowed us to do our annual waterfowl work.

A cooperative agreement was developed between the refuge and the State Division of Forestry. The agreement provides for the use of State resources (primarily a helicopter) on prescribed burns, fuels management and fire effects studies on the refuge.

2. Other Economic Uses

One permit was issued for guiding purposes and one was issued for an air taxi operation.

The refuge continues to be an important source for the issuance of CITES permits for endangered/threatened animals that will be transported through Canada. This provides the opportunity for refuge staff to see a lot of wildlife not native to Alaska including snakes, tortoises and parrots. Most permits are issued for lynx, wolves and grizzly bears.

124 4. Credits

This report as usual is the product of a total team effort. Most of the graphics and final formatting were accomplished by FMO Vanderlinden. ARM Schulz spent a considerable amount of time editing draft versions. The designs on each information packet are courtesy of Sherry Vanderlinden. This narrative was entirely produced on a 386 desktop computer with Microsoft Windows 3.0, Lotus 1-2-3 for Windows, and WordPerfect 5.1 software. Printing was accomplished on HP Laserwriter III and HP Paintjet XL printers. One map was scanned and incorporated into the narrative with a HP Scanjet scanner.

STAFF SECTION

Refuge Manager Breeser A.;D.;E.S.,E.8.;K. Assistant Refuge Manager Schulz C.;E.1.;E.7.;H.17.;I.1-3. Secretary Rallo B.;L. Biologist Doyle D.S.;G. FMO Vanderlinden D.S.;F.;I.5.,I.6. Park Ranger Dapkus E.4.;H.1-7.;H.11-18. Pilot Bohman 1.3-4.

125 Literature Cited

Blankenship, L.H., C.D. Evans, M.H. Hammond, and A.S. Hawkins. 1953. Techniques for brood production studies. Miss. Flyway Council Tech. Com. 14pp.

Hughs, J. 1984. Distribution, abundance, and productivity of ospreys in interior Alaska. Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Nongame Wildlife Program Report, 13pp.

__. 1985. Distribution, abundance, and productivity of ospreys in interior .Alaska. Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Nongame Wildlife Program Report, 16pp.

__. 1986. Distribution, abundance, and productivity of ospreys in interior Alaska. Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Nongame Wildlife Program Report, 9pp.

__. 1987. Distribution, abundance, and productivity of ospreys in interior Alaska. Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Nongame Wildlife Program Report, 9pp.

__. 1988. Distribution, abundance, and productivity of ospreys in interior Alaska. Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Nongame Wildlife Program Report, 7pp.

Hughs, J. and J. Wright. 1990. Ospreys in interior Alaska. Annual Report. Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Nongame Wildlife Program Report, 7pp.

126 K. FEEDBACK )

)

We are often reminded of the special unspoiled allure of Alaska on Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. This is a view of a winter sunrise about 11:00 a.m. on the Chisana River just above the mouth of Mirror Creek. TNWR-58, 3-89, LAV

127 The size of the decrease in station funding came as quite a surprise this year. We had been expecting some sort of budget reductions because of the state of the national economy. However, we were led to believe that FY92 0 & M funding would be similar to or slightly better than what had been received in FY91. When the reality finally set in that base 0 & M funding had been significantly slashed, a mad scramble took place trying to salvage programs that already were in place. A cursory look at this station's budget would not necessarily point out any major cuts. However, once a person took into account the fact that no increases were received for legislatively mandated salary increases, inflation, or facility costs, the real impact became significant.

I feel that the core work of any wildlife refuge has been and always should be the wildlife/habitat inventory work--yet this is the one area that suffered the biggest funding reduction. National and regional guidance has funneled money into numerous programs that I certainly will not argue are worthwhile. However, when there is only so much money in the pot, it will only reach so far. To take money from core programs, that in many cases are already underfunded, to start new thrusts is stretching our budgets and personnel a bit thin.

On the bright side, however, there is no doubt in my mind that the field personnel of the Service will use their ingenuity and dedication to keep doing the best job possible with limited resources. We do need to be concerned that our refuge purposes are met first and foremost, which means taking care of habitat and wildlife, before we try to keep up with ever expanding programs. If we were to grade ourselves, how would we do?

128 Tetlin Welcome! Recreation Hunting and Fishing The Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge was C'stablished by Recreational opportunities on the refuge include Ducks, caribou, and moose attract most hunters while the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act wildlife observation, sport hunting and fishing, northern pike, burbot, and grayling are the most National (ANILCA) on December 2, 1980. As one of nine new trapping, canoeing and power-boating, and camping. popular sport fish. The deeper lakes generally support Alaskan refuges established by ANILCA, the refuge was Hiking opportunities exist, but are very limited. Scenic pike, while most silty streams host burbot and clear officially recognized as a national treasure. vistas of the refuge are especially good from the refuge streams support grayling. Information on hunting and Wildlife visitor center and interpretive pullouts along the fishing is available from the refuge office In Tok or the This 730,000 acre refuge is located in east central Alaska, adjacent to the Yukon Territory, directly south Alaska High,vay. Check with refuge personnel prior to Alaska Department of Fish and Game (Address: ADF&G, ot the Alaska Highway and north of Wrangell-St. Elias a visit for more detailed information. P.O. 355, Tok, Alaska 99780. Phone 907-883-2971 ). Refuge National Park and Preserve. The major physical features include broad flat river basins bisected by Access Camping rolling hills, extensive marsh and lake complexes, The Alaska llighway providec; access along the Camping is allowed throughout the refuge. The best Visitor Information foothill areas of the Nutzotin and Mentasta Mountains, northern border of the refuge. Foot access is possible undeveloped summertime campsites are on riverbars and two maJOr glacial rivers which combme to iorm along the highway from the Canadian border to or ridges where msects are less of a problem. Choose the Tanana River. Gardiner Creek and at other points. Small boat access sites carefully and be prepared for possible flooding. The primary objectives for Tetlin mclude: conserving is possible from the Alaska Highway at Desper Creek Dry wood 1s usually available on riverbars or in spruce fish and wildlife populations in their natural diversity, and from the Northway Road at the Chisana River stands. Please use dead or downed wood only. providing opportunities for local subsistence users, bridge. There is alc;o a boat ramp at Deadman Lake There are two public campgrounds along the Alaska and providing opportunities for interpretation Campground. Charter air service is available in Tok as Highway operated and maintained by the refuge. and environmental education. well as Fairbanks and Anchorage. Riverboats are These are Lakeview Campground located at Milepost avarlable at Tok and Northway. There are no designated 1256.7 and Deadman Lake Campground at Milepost roads or trails for motorized vehicles on the refuge. 1249.3. • Take Pride in America! Please "pack out what you • pack in " Properly dispose of refuse by burning combustible items and pack out the rest. Fill in firepits and latrines. • Leave a travel plan describing your trip with family • Supplies for camping as well as gas, food, and or friends and do not forget to notify them when you lodging are available in Tok and Northway, Alaska, return. - and Beaver Creek, Yukon Territory, Canada. • Standard precautions should be taken to avoid unwanted encounters with bears. Make noise when --- Weather hiking or walking. Keep a clean campsite and store In June and July daytime temperatures often exceed a/( food items away from tents out of the reach of - - 80°F with nightly lows ro 40°F. By mid-September bears. Do not bul)l garbage or debris. Bur)'ing - daytime temperatures of 45 F and nighttime garbage encourages animals to dig it up and seek - - temperatures oi 25°F are common. Weather can other campsites as sources of food. - - change rapidly. Snow can occur anytime--sometimes • Boil or chemically purify water beiore drinking. - - - :as early as August. Giardiasis is a waterborne intestinal disease common ------in Alaska...... ------For Your Safety and Comfort • Be prepared with headnets and repellent to meet the ------• There are few trails on the refuge which makes famous Alaskan mosquitoes! ------.. - - - - .. ------hiking difficult. Some trails appear on maps but are • Please do not harass animals by venturing within a ~--===- - - =-- difiicult to find on the ground. Maps and a compass few yards to take pictures. Remember that feeding ------are a wise investment for an extended trip into the animals can also be dangerous. ------= - refuge. Topographic maps are available from the U.S. - - - - Geological Survey in Anchorage or Fairbanks and . - - - w - - - - from commercial businesses in Tok. ------·- - - - - ..- - - -- s · - Private Lands and Cabins Interpretive Opportunities Wildlife Tetlin • Large acreages within the refuge have been The Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center, Most wildlife are active just after sunrise and just National Wildlife Refuge conveyed to Native corporations and individuals. If located near the Alaska/Canada border (Milepost before sunset. Traveling along the highway during you want to use private lands be sure to ask 1229), offers a wide variety of interpretive these periods may increase your chances of glimpsing permission. If you are uncertain as to land status, opportunities for visitors. Deckside talks, wildlife some of the Tetlin's wildlife. Stopping to watch quietly • contact refuge personnel. displays and exhibits can all be enjoyed there. An or hiking to vantage points along a river or a ridge may Alaska Natural Hlstory Association sales outlet which also Increase your chances of seeing wildlife. • • Cabins are scattered throughout the refuge. Their /0'7.0 contents are essential to trapperS and subsistence offers books about Alaska's hatural and cultural The refuge has one of the highest densities of nesting _,0 "'-. TOK;-.-..._ resources is a part of the visitor center. The refuge users. Cabins or contents should be used only in an waterfowl in Alaska, and in favorable years produces 25 miles interpretive pullouts along the Alaska Highway provide LEGEND emergency. If you are forced to use a cabin or its about 100,000 ducklings to flight stage. As a migration more information about the area's natural and cultural contents hotify refuge personnel so supplies can be corridor for all types of birds. entering and leaving resources. A kiosk located at the international border Tellln National Wildlife replaced. Failure to replace supplies could cost the Alaska, the refuge provides habitat for 143 nesting --- Refuge Boundary life of a trapper or subsistence user. provides an introduction to the Yukon Territory and species of birds and 47 migrants. TRUMPETER Alaska, and tells about the Alaska-Canada Highway. //1 Native & State Conveyed SWANS migrate through and an increasing number '---::...... :'-'. or Selected Land The refuge staff also offers other interpretive programs also nest in the refuge. BALD EAGLES, OSPREYS, and for visitors and assist5 schools and other groups other raptors may also be observed. 1f. NORTHWAY ._I__ __.J Tetlin Refuge Land interested in outdoor classroom experiences. In addition, the Alaska Public Lands Information Center Both BlACK and GRIZZLY BEA.RS are found on the TETLIN INDIAN UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR Campground in Tok offers wildlife displays and trip planning refuge. Bears are unpredictable and should always be RESERVE a FISH AND WILDLIFE SERVICE information. considered dangerous especially sows with cubs. mP icnic Area MOOSE are popular, year-long residents of the refuge. * Roadside Interpretive Exhlbit As the Nation's principal conservation agency, the Keep a respectable distance, however. Moose can also ORTflWAY' Department of the Interior has basic responsibi lity be dangerous. Cows have been known to charge ~ Alaska-Canada Border Kiosk for water, fish, wildlife, mineral, land, park, and persons who have gotten too close to their calves. 0 recreational resources. lndJan and territorial affairs north are other major concerns of America's CARIBOU are primarily winter residents and are easily "Department of Natural Resources!' seen along the highway during that season. WOLVES are comnion throughout the area but are The Department works to assure the wisest cho1ce 0 5 10 15 ~t> wary and therefore seldom seen. ~ ~ in managing all our resources so each will make ...... ======-...... ~ its full contribution to a better, United States - BEAVERS, MUSKRATS, and their lodges can be found - now and in the future. on Tetlin's ponds, lakes, and streams. A quiet observer can watch these animals go about their work. Total acreage within refuge: 730,000 + AC. FOR MORE INFORMATION: Other small mammals, such as FOXES and HARES are commonly seen along the highway. r-~sl} Tetlin NWR Refuge Manager Visitor Center With a little luck you may be able to spy some of these ,. ..,.., A. I -l'o Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge ~ '-1· ~ .,,, 0 Box 155 animals in your travels through the Tetlin NWR and · J /I c'fl0 • Tok, Alaska 99780 Telephone: (907) 883-5312 Alaska! Watch, take pictures, and enjoy, but please do Jotoilmund not disturb thern. I Lake

BUY DUCK STAMPS 1\ Mentasta SAVE WETLANDS FOR WILDLIFE ~"A'"· < - ----::1\ t c '"",.__~.;.__ c?' --~ < -- ______------Wellesley z Lakes < ..... 0 WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE •••

@ prmted on recycled paper Nutzotln Mountains

GPO 1986 694~ Birds

of the TETLIN National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska

General Notes

Loons-Grebes-Swans Geese-Ducks

Hawks-Eagles-Falcons Grouse-Cranes-Rails

Plovers-Sandpipers J aegers-Gulls-Terns

Doves-Owls-Kingfishers Woodpecker-s-Flycatchers-Larks Swallows-Jays-Chickadees-Dippers Thrushes-Kinglets-Pipits Waxwings-Shrikes-Warblers Blackbirds-Sparrows-Finches

Field Notes BIRDS OF THE TETLIN NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

The Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge occupies about 700,000 acres of the Upper Tanana River Basin. Locally this area is called the Tetlin-North­ way Fla,ts. It is well-known for bird habitat, serving not only as an important breeding ground but also as an essential migration stop along the route between Alaska and wintering areas in the Lower-48. Some of the more significant species which pass through the area are: sandhill cranes, trumpeter swans, greater white- fronted geese. Canada geese. American wigeon, green-winged teal, mallards, northern pintails, blue-winged teal. northern shovelers, and scaup (both lesser and greater). Large numbers of other birds also use this same corridor on their migration routes including bald eagles, red-tailed hawks, northern harrier, Pacific loons, lesser golden plovers, and numerous small passerine species including warblers, thrushes. and sparrows. Most of the refuge is composed of a mixed conif­ erous-deciduous forest interspread with lakes. streams. and bogs. Several mountainous areas are also present. The most extensive habitat type is the black spruce forest. Other vegetative types include: deciduous forest, riparian woodlands, and a mixed riparian coniferous forest dominated by white spruce. D uring spring migration it is common to see black- poll wa rblers. ruby-crowned kinglets. and Wilson's warblers mov ing through the lowland forests on their way to breeding locations. Ducks, geese. swans, cranes, and shorebirds also share the refuge's varied water habitats much in the same manner. Riverine habitats afford nesting habitat for many sper·ies such as Ca nada geese, American wigeon. and spott<·d sandpiper. Lakes, bogs. and streams are used for feeding, nesti11g, and cover, depending upon the species. USING YOUR CHECKLIST This leaflet lists all species which could be observed on bhe refuge at some time during the year. The abundance of each bird is designated by season: c-common (certain to be seen in suitable habitat) u - uncommon (present, but not certain to be seen) o - occasional (seen only a few times during a season) r - rare (seen at intervals of two to five years)

Elirds known to nest in the region have a asterisk after their name. Seasonal appearances at Tetlin are listed by the columns: Sp-Aprii- May F -September-October S - June-August W - November-March

General Notes

Loons-Grebes-Swans Geese-Ducks

Hawks-Eagles-Falcons Grouse-Cranes-Rails

Plovers-Sandpipers J aegers-Gulls-Terns

Doves-Owls-Kingfishers Woodpeckers-Flycatchers-Larks Swallows-Jays-Chickadees-Dippers Thrushes-Kinglets-Pipits Waxwings-Shrikes-Warblers Blackbirds-Sparrows-Finches

Field Notes Canada Geese fu!_§_E_W __ Common Loon* o o o __ Pacific Loon* c c u __ Red-throated Loon* o o u __ Red-necked Grebe* u u u __ Horned Grebe* c c o __ Western Grebe o r r __ Tundra Swan u o u __ Trumpeter Swan* u u u r __ Canada Goose* u u u __ Brant r r __ Greater White-fronted Goose u o u _ _ Snow Goose 0 0 _ _ Mallard* c c c 0 __ Gadwall 0 0 0 __ Northern Pintail* c c c _ ·_ ureen-wing-ea-.real - c c c - --Blue-winged Teal* u u u __ Northern-Shoveler* c c c __ American Wigeon* c c c __ Canvasback* u u u __ Redhead* 0 0 0 __ Ring-necked Duck* u u u __ Greater Scaup* u u u __ Lesser Scaup* c c c __ Common Goldeneye* u u u __ Barrow's Goldeneye* u u u _ _ Bufflehead* c c c __ Ofdsquaw* u 0 0 __ Harlequin Duck* u u u __ White-winged Scoter* c c u __ Surf Scoter * u u u __ Ruddy Duck o r r __ Common Merganser* 0 0 u __ Red-breasted Merganser 0 0 0

Pacific Loon

Loons- Grebes- Swans Geese- Ducks

Hawks-Eagles-Falcons Grouse- Cranes-Rails

Plovers- Sandpipers J aegers- Gulls- Terns

Doves-Owls- Kingfishers Woodpeckers- Flycatchers-Larks Swallows-Jays-Chickadees-Dippers Thrushes-Kinglets-Pipits Waxwings-Shrikes-Warblers Blackbirds-Sparrows-Finches

Field Notes Northern Harrier

§£ § F W __ Northern Goshawk* u u u 0 __ Sharp-shinned Hawk* u u u __ Red-tailed Hawk* u u u 0 __ Swainson's Hawk 0 __ Rough-legged Hawk u 0 u __ Golden Eagle u 0 u __ Bald Eagle* c c c u __ Northern Harrier • u u u 0 __ Osprey* u u u __ Gyrfalcon* u u u __ Peregrine Falcon 0 0 0 __ Merlin* u u u __ American Kestrel* u u u __ Spruce Grouse* c c c u __ Ruffed Grouse* u u u u _·_Willow Ptarmigan* u u u u _ _ Rock Ptarmigan* u u u u White-tailed Ptarmigan* 0 0 0 0 __ Sharp-tailed Grouse* u u u u __ Sandhill Crane* c u u _ _ Sora r r American Coot* 0 0

Spruce Grouse

Field Notes:

Hawks-Eagles-Falcons Grouse-Cranes-Rails

Plovers-Sandpipers J aegers-Gulls-Terns

Doves-Owls-Kingfishers Woodpeckers-Flycatchers-Larks Swallows-Jays-Chickadees-Dippers Thrushes-Kinglets-Pipits Waxwings-Shrikes-Warblers Blackbirds-Sparrows-Finches

Field Notes Mew Gull §12§ F w __ Semipalma ted Plover* c c u __ Killdeer* 0 0 __ Lesser Golden Plover* u u Black-bellied Plover 0 0 __ Hudsonian Godwit r __ Whimbrel u 0 __ Upland Sandpiper 0 0 __ Greater Yellow legs r r __ Lesser Yellow legs* c c u __ Solitary Sandpiper u 0 __ Spotted Sandpiper* c c u __ Wandering Tattler* u u 0 __ Ruddy Turnstone r __ Red-necked Phalarope* u u __ Common Snipe* c c c __ Long-billed Dowitcher* u u __ Surfbird 0 0 __ Semipalmated Sandpiper u 0 __ Western Sandpiper r r __ Least Sandpiper* u u __ White-rumped

Sa_"".dpiper J __ Baird's Sandpiper* u u __ Pectoral Sandpiper u 0 __ Dunlin r __ Stilt Sandpiper r __ Buff-breasted Sandpiper r __ Long-tailed Jaeger* u u __ Glaucous Gull r r __ Herring Gull u 0 __ Mew Gull* c c u __ Bonaparte's Gull* u u 0 __ Arctic Tern* u u 0

Lesser Yellow legs

Field Notes:

Plovers-Sandpipers J aegers-Gulls-Terns

Doves-Owls-Kingfishers Woodpeckers- Flycatchers- Larks Swallows-Jays-Chickadees-Dippers Thrushes-Kinglets-Pipits Waxwings-Shrikes-Warblers Blackbirds-Sparrows-Finches

Field Notes Hawk Owl

fu?_§__E_W __ Rock Dove 0 0 __ Mourning Dove r r __ Great Horned Owl* u u u u __ Snowy Owl r r __ Northern Hawk-Owl* u u u 0 __ Great Gray Owl* r r r r __ Short-eared Owl* u u 0 __ Boreal Owl* u u u 0 __ Rufous Hummingbird r __ Belted Kingfisher* u u 0 __ Northern Flicker* c c u 0 __ Y ellow-beliied Sapsucker o r __ Red-breasted Sapsucker r __ Hairy Woodpecker* u u u u __ Downy Woodpecker* u u u u __ Black-backed Woodpecker* r r r r __ Three-toed Woodpecker* u u u u __ Say's Phoebe* u u __ Alder Flycatcher* c c u __ Hammond's Flycatcher* c c u __ Western Wood-Pewee* u u 0 _·_ Olive-sided Flycatcher * u u 0 __ Horned Lark* c u 0 __ Violet-green Swallow* c c 0 __ Tree Swallow* c c 0 __ Bank Swallow* u u 0 __ Cliff Swallow* c c __ Gray J ay* c c c c __ Black-billed Magpie* u 0 u u __ Common Raven * c c c c __ Black-capped Chickadee* u u u u __ Siberian Tit* o o r r __ Boreal Chickadee* c c c c __ Red-breasted Nuthatch * r r r r __ Brown Creeper r r r r __ American Dipper * u u u u

Cliff' Swallow Field Notes:

Doves-Owls-Kingfishers Woodpeckers- Flycatchers-Larks Swallows-Jays-Chickadees- Dippers Thrushes- Kinglets- Pipits Waxwings-Shrikes-Warblers Blackbirds-Sparrows-Finches

Field Notes SwainsQn's Thrush

§£ s F w American Robin* c c u r Varied Thrush* u u u __ Hermit Thrush* u u u __ Swainson's Thrush* c c u _ _ Gray-cheeked Thrush* u u u _ _ Mountain Bluebird* 0 0 __ Northern Wheatear* u u 0 __ Thwnsend's Solitaire* u u 0 _ _ Arctic Warbler* u u __ Golden-crowned Kinglet r r _ _ Ruby-crowned Kinglet* u u r _ _ Yellow Wagtail r __ Water Pipit c u u __ Bohemian Waxwing* u u u 0 __ Northern Shrike* u u 0 _ _ European Starling r r __ Tennessee Warbler r r __ Orange-crowned Warbler * u u 0 Yellow Warbler* c c 0 __ Yellow-rumped Warbler* c c 0 __ Thwnsend's Warbler* u u 0 __ Blackpoll Warbler* u u Northern Waterthrush * c c 0 Wilson's Warbler* c c 0 __ American Redstart r r

_ _ Yellow-headed Blackbird r r __ Red-winged Blackbird* 0 0 r __ Rusty Blackbird* c c u __ Common Grackle r r __ Brown-headed Cowbird r r _ _ Savannah Sparrow * c c u __ Dark-eyed Junco* c c c 0 American Tree Sparrow * c c c 0 __ Chipping Spa rrow* u u u __ White-crowned Sparrow * c c u __ Golden-crowned Sparrow* u u 0 White-throated Sparrow r r __ Fox Sparrow* c c u __ Lincoln's Sparrow* c c u _ _ Lapland Longspur* c u u __ Smith's Longspur r r r __ Snow Bunting c u u 0 __ Pine Grosbeak* u u u u __ Rosy Finch* u u 0 __ Hoary Redpoll* c 0 u c __ Common Redpoll* c c c c __ Pine Siskin r r r _ _ White-winged Crossbill* u u u u

Wi lson's Warbler

Thrushes-Kinglets-Pipits Waxwings-Shrikes-Warblers Blackbirds-Sparrows-Finches

Field Notes Osprey

Field Notes FOR INFORMATION WRITE: Refuge Manager Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge P.O. Box 155 Tok, AK 99780 Telephone: (907) 883-5312

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR U.S. FISH & WILDLIFE SERVICE

u.s. FISH A WILDI.IFJo: SERVJC~

' . . ~ ,..,. o•· Tllo•·

f:r U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1990-792-088 TETLIN NA TI ON AL WILDLIFE REFUGE 1 9 8 9

Welcome to the Great Land Why are mapy visitors similar to rocks in the Tetlin National by Steve Breeser Wildlife Refuge? They come from "down South"! • elcome to the Great Land­ WAlaska, and welcome to the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. Alaska is great not only in its size. resources, and peo­ GEOLOGY ple, bur also in its unspoiled natural ecosystems-most of which haven't by Stephanie Hoag changed since humans first settled this harsh environment. The federal govern­ eologists think of AJaska as a ment and the state government have set Ggiant jigsaw puzzle made up of aside millions of acres of land for the many "terranes" or pieces that have express purpose of protecting and pre­ moved in at different rates from serving the natural bounty that currently different places. The ancient core of exi~t~ for the enjoyment of you and aU Ala.... ka is a relatively l.lllall part of future generations. the state that lies north of here, One of these natural areas that was set between the Yukon and Porcupine aside in 1980 was the Tetlin National Rivers. As you drive along the Wildlife Refuge. For 65 miles, from the Alaska Highway. you are driving on AJaska-Yukon border to Midway Lake, the piece known as the Yukon Crys­ the northern boundary of the refuge is the talline Terrane. It extends from Alaska Highway. The Thtlin is one of 16 Nenana and Fairbanks eastward into wildlife refuges that occur in Alaska. Chi sana River Flats near Northway Junction. Photo courtesy of Tetlin NWR. Canada, and is bounded on the north This refuge is one of the smallest, encom­ by the Titina Fault near the Yukon passing about 1 million acres, while River, and on the south by the Denali some of the larger refuges are almost 20 habitat, it provides important habitat for and many otner species. FauJt. This piece of crust originated million acres. That's larger than many or many other migratory birds, as well as There are two distinctions that set the hundreds of miles south of the the states in the ''lower 48." furbearers, big game, and fiSh. The river Tetlin aside from most other refuges in present position, then slid northward This area was set aside primarily for valleys. foothills. and mountains contain the state. First. this refuge and the Kenai along the Titina Fault until it became the conservation of a natjonally signifi­ moose, caribou, Dall sheep, grizzly bear, WildJife Refuge are the only two National welded into place aJongside Alaska's cant waterfowl production area. How­ black bears, wolves, wolverine, bald ancestral core. ever, because of Its size and varied eagles, golden eagles, trumpeter swans, Continued on back (page 4) Most of the rocks in the Yukon Crystalline Terrane are schists. and you may see that type of rock on the north side of the highway just past History Around the Tetlin Northway Junction. The rocks you by Kris Thorsrud preneurs played an essentiaJ role in the see aJong most of this section of settlement of Alaska's eastern Interior. highway, however, are more recently istoric exploration and settlement They helped expand trade routes, and formed granitic rocks. They were H ofthe upper Tanana region began in innoduced local Athabaskan people to created as molten lava pushed up the the late 1800s. Previously, during Rus­ tools. food. and methods not seen overlying rocks and cooled slowly sian and European exploration of Alaska before. underground. in the 1700s, the upper Tanana was iso­ In 1913, the Chisana Stampede As you en[er Alaska and drive lated from explorers and missionaries. In attracted thousands of POid S<>"''Copper River to a village-based way of life. The 1920s were some of the many reguJarly used on the south side of the fault has area through Tetlin and on to the Thnana brought the first boat motor to the vil­ sites for duck hunting. Prominent hiJls slowly moved westward in relation­ and Yukon Rivers, recording the first lages: the 1960s brought snowmachines. provided exceUent lookout sites for ship to the northern side. ln very official exploration in this area. In J898, In 1942, the Alaska-Canada Military moose and caribou. Fish camps were recent years there has not been much the U.S. Gee;> logical and GeographicaJ Highway was completed. This project, located along the banks of the area's movement along the fault, but it is Survey sent an expedition up the White spurred on by World War II, opened up rivers. Remnants of winter beaver estimated that the land has moved as River and over to the Tanana River via the upper Tanana region to development camps. muskrat trapping camps, and car­ much as 753 feet since the last ice age Snag and Mirror Creeks. In the early more than any preceding event. Since the ibou fences can still be found throughout ended about 20,000 years ago. While 1900s, white traders-Captain North­ opening of the Alaska Highway, settle­ the Refuge. Pack and foot trails wind their this seems very slow, it can add up way, Herman Kissler, Ted Lowell. Milo ment and development of Alaska's east­ way across the Nutzotin Mountains, to over geologic time. Sixty million Hadjdukovitch among others-estab­ em Interior has steadily progressed. the White River from Mentasta to Tetlin, years ago, if Mt. McKinley has lished trading posts along the banks and Historical bunting and fishing sites are to Chisana. and north to the historic mounts of the Nabesna, Chisana. Tetlin. located throughout Refuge lands. Tetlin Continued on back (page 4) and Tanana Rivers. These frontier entre- Lake, Gasoline Lake, and Butterfly Lake Continued on back (page 4) 2

The Tetlin Passage 1989 Wildflowers Along the Alcan A Drive Through Evening Primrose Lane by Jim Sisk \ F======7~======r======~~======~======~

pr;ng and -.umme~ in Ala~ka i.' ing along the edge of the torest. Sbnefand the grov. mg sea..;on for A!> June ""cars on into July. the plants h compacle41 mto a fi:w short roadsides in some area!> become a momh~ (~by - September) . The ma­ lru(' E\enin~ Primrose Lane. The jorit} of wildllo""e'"" bloom trom two ~pccie~ of Firewced (Epi/ohwm late May to mid-Augu.'t and. for l.he clllglutifolium and E pilobium Jmi­ highway tl'&\-eler, pro\"idc a colorful ft,Jium) prov1tk a profusion of tall forcg.ruuml to r.bc maje::.tic \'iew:. of member of the Phlox fumil). Thh identified as Labrador Tea Cudum spikes and IO\\ clump!> of magenta d btant ri n:rs and moumains. The di­ plant is man)· bmnched. \\ itb di\ ided palusrre). The leaves are dull gray along the disturbed roadside area~ . \\!T~it't' of wtldtlowcrs ~rcat leave-. and the large flowers are in above and browni~h add~ U.s pin~ . is not as ~ covered "1th fhe Prickly Rose on in Ala.... l.t as in "-':inner climates, but cluste~ au the end of the 'hon hair.. on the in-rolled underside. tall :-piny :.tcm.s to the scene. The the blouming -.hon branches. Another ofthe fa mil\ pale hut striking yciiO\\ 'ea-.on i'> and member Heath • of flo"e.r5 mo~t !>pecics are in bloom at the ,A :.top and shtll't walk b 'arne Vcn• • rravelcr' will tough grayish leave' on and dl) me..tdo" find onl~ the willows. alders. and a highway will allow sighting:. of whtte drooping globes tor nov.cr~ is areas belong [O the Alaskan Poppy few ,edge."> tn blnl>!>Om in April. many plant!> in bloom during June. In Lcathcrleaf with the umque Latin (Ptl.pa\"ef' ala.rkamon). Shon \\alks A tr-Jveler on a trip through the low and v. et areas. the drooping pink name Cltamuedapluu: C'alyculatu! In into the forc~ts or down into the bog~ mterior of Alaska during the period globes af the Bog R1JScmary late June suitable pond~ will nuat the and wet areas '"Ill allow you to (Androm~da polifolia) grace the of May through June will find many huge yellow blossoms of the Water encounter manv• more beautiful and ofour moM beauuful Oowerspro\id­ edges of ponds and wet tussocks Lily (Nuplwr polysepalum). The 'triktng nowers. June and Jul) are mg a blue and white carpet w1th Arctic Sweet Coh:.foot CPeta.ritesfrt· magenta Bog Laurel (Kalnua po/ifo the months when the great majority enough pmk and yellow h1ghlights to gidll!i) also blooms in the low and wet lla) and the Bog Blucberr} ( 11Jcci- of plants bloom in Alaska. draw allention. One of the ~:arliest Hrl!as The biOS!>Om~ appear before 11ium uliginosum) will also be found For information about wild showy plant' found along the high­ the leaves and arc white to pinkish in in tbese low moist to wet area~. Ripe flowers. their identification and way is the Pa,que flower (Anemone clusters at the top ol bare :.wlks one blueberries may be picked in late uses. you can stop at the Visitor In­ patcn.l'). a low-growing. blue to pur­ to two feet tall The bright yclluw August in these same areas. tormation Center in Tok and inquire ple buncrcup thut often pushes up Marsh Mangold (Ca/tlra palustris) The pea family provides the trav­ about the availability of field guides. through the r~maining snow to can also b~· tound on the ~:dgclt of eler with some of the showiest road­ resident experts. or management bloom. A white cousin of the Pasque ~mull ponds. Two <~rchids can be side nowers in Ala~o.ka. The pink to agencies with in-depth infonnalion flower that bloom~ at the same time found in wet areas: the single hlus­ red Licorice root (Hed\'Sllrwn alpin about vegetation habitats. photogra­ but pretcrs mossy areal> in light • o;oms Clf Northern Lady's Shppcr um) and rcd-Oowered Northern phy. and l~a\ions for field trips. shade is the Northern Anemone (Cypripedium posscritwm) arc Sweet-vetch CHedy.wnun macken:.ii) Observing and learning about wild· (Anemom parvijlora) ThU. butter­ white, us arc the clustered sp1ke of arc mtcrspersed wnb the blue Arctic nowcrs is quuc inexpensive and can cup has spreading white petals that nower5 on Hooded Ll.ldje's Tres!oi!S Lupine (LupimtS arctim) and the be a very rewarding experience for ha"e a bluish tint on the back. (Spmuulu•s mmanzofficma). On top purple Showy Crazyweed (Orytru­ the Alaskan traveler. We sincerely Another light blue flower ofthe June of the tussock!~ bctwl!cn the ponds. a PIS ~pll!ndt'ns) The dmoptng Blue· hupe you have a pleasant and reward­ roadside is Showy Jacob's Ladder shrub with cluMers ot beautiful bells (Mertmsicl panic~tltllcl) of the Ing expenenc.e along this E\ eniog (Pol~monium pulchtorrimum). a whue .md frugrunt tlowl!r:> can be Dol d.gc (aJTtil) ~dJI lx r~ulli.J l.lh.XJJ Jl• P1 im r u:.c La.m:.

BIRDS 4. 1spend the enttre year in Alaska and can be seen tn the coldest day of win· ter with my wedge-shaped ta11 and shaggy throat feathers. 3. I have more than 30 diStinct vocahzatrons but am well known for my deep resonant "KAW." 2. 1am fairly smart. as b1rds go. and so are my coustns-1ays, magpies, and crows 1. I am the largest songb1rd and all-black b1rd m the world. Who am I? _ ------~------Be a Bird Detective Score BIRDC Adapted from the game 4. 1 can be found 1n 1he spruce-birch forests throughout Alaska 3 My sole winter food 1s spruce needles and on fall momlngs you can see me by John Warden by lake shores, streams, and roads fmdmg grit to grind the needles in my giZZard winter months Bird c. are fa.,cmating to observe More than 150 specie~ ofbinh may be found on the during 2. The rusty-orange band at the top of my dark-brown tail sets me apart from Tetlin Wildlife National Reiuge Songbirds. shorebirds, and wat~rfowl . especially my relatives. dud.ll, are plentiful during the summer months. Can you idenul}' some of the birds you , . 1am also called by names hke Franklin·s grouse, Spruce hen and Fool's may see on the refuge by the1rcoloror marlmgs, where they h\e. what they eat? Wh} hen. not try your luck at the following game and find out? Who ami? ______Score: ------How to Play BIRDD Each bird ha~ four clu~ to help you find the right answer. Start at the top and read 4. 1swim low in the water and have a daggerllke ball only the first clue. Fill in the answer ifyou know it. Ifyou arc unahlc t<> idcnufy the bird 3. When alarmed, 1prefer dlllmg tor safely instead of flying and can stay under· on the first clue. proceed to the second clue. then the third clue. and finally the founh water more than a minute. clue. If you an: still not able to identify iL. proceed to the next o;et of clucll 2 1 am a sleek-looking bird with a dark head and body, white striped breast. Scoring 1s based on identifying the birds in the fewest number of clues. The object ts and white speckles on my back. to get the h1ghcst number of points by totaling aJithc mdividual sets of clues when you 1. I make a yodelling call on my breed1ng grounds along lakes m Alaska linally have the correct anl!wcr. For~xample. ifyou identify the bird on the lirst clttc. you Who am I'? _ would scon.: 4 points If you did so on the ::.econd clue, you would gct3 point!!. You'J get 2 Score: puint\ for tht.{ third clue, I point for the last clue. and no pomts if you couldn't lind an anl>wer. BIRD E 4 1prefer shallow marshes or mud flats when looking tor rood whtch usually are insects, mollusks, and small seeds of aquat1c plants BIRD A 3 I amihe smallest duck (about the s:ze of a pigeon) In Alaska and one of the 4 1eal about 20 pounds ol aqua He vegetauon a day. like tubers and seeds swiftest fliers 3. 1am known by my loud, "French horn-like" can 2 The drakes of my sp!l(;Jes are extremely colorful. tney have a cmnamon-red 2 1am the world's largest member of the waterfowl famtly and the emblem ol head, green eye stripe and lheJr speculum (the middle feathers an the wmg) the Tethn Nattonal Wtldlife Refuge. rs green 1 My hfelong mate and I have all·wh1te plumage artd our young are called 1 I am also called a common teal and g1eenwlng cygnets Who am I? ______Who am I? ------Score: Score; See back page (page 4) for scoring and answers to ''The Bird Detective." The Tetlin Passage 1990 WILDLIFE HABITAT MA EMENT The Role of Fire by Larry Vanderlinden ktry purpose for "hich Tetlin • 'a­ accompli hec:l. If these and other condi­ A tiona! Wildlife Refuge was e~1ab­ tions nrc met. the prc..;cribed burn is ll'-hed and 1 currently managed I!> "to ignited b) a trained ream of o;pecialists. con-.ci'\'C fish unc.l "ildlifc population-. There 1<; no ~ingular use of lhe refuge ontl hnbuatc; an their natural dJ') .. tem-.. nvn•lnhle. F1re i~ a l.:c) mgredient in Today, fire ., the mr> t Important tool contmuang the hal:mce of utilization and B\'Uilnblc on Tcthn Nauonal Wtldlife conscr.,.ation for plant und animal re­ Rc:fugc for llUlintammg the n3turnl di­ sources on the refuge. vcr,il\• of" •ldltfc habatat' If you do sec moke as you lnlvcl HO\\ ts fire used n 11 hab•tnt manage­ along. above or through the refuge. you ment tool? rna) 'Cf) well be eemg habitat manage­ lntcmgcncy fire management plan., ment ut work. On the other hand. u f1UI\• ' ha\e been d~o:\eloped \\ h1ch aiiO\\ for u be an unreported v;ildfire. Ju t 10 make rnngc of upprc 'ion responses to \\ ild­ urc nppropnatc action 1s lakcn, rcpon land fires thai occur on fire-prone lamh nn) fire on the refuge to Refuge Head­ in AJa,.,ka. Planned responses nrc estab­ quarter-. an Tok (883-531:!) or the State lished for broad areas based rm land OIVI,JOn of f' stable rcmo11: areas "lwrl wildlilc hab1U1t can availabtllty ol habltah to support the be enhanced h} thcu UlTUrrcncc receive rrc:ucst diversity of plants and animals a monitoring Jcspnn,c. A' long as the on the refuge. remote tires do not threaten to sprcuc.l ~rohuhilit) into c.lc"dupcd arcu' 01 cn.:.•tc u ~mokc • ·r he or large catastroph­ problem. they ''ill continue tn be mom­ ic- 11rc.., occurnng I\ n.'du1.'Cd becnuo;c the mo~aic torcd '' ith nn uth~.: r 'upprcs-.1~1n action vcgctalton crcarcd by smaller taken . lire) uvcr n long period of time tends to The rcluge also has an nctivc pre· limit fire sprcnd .. cribcd fire progrum. E\'Cf) ycur. de­ tailed pn:scnlx:d bum plnns arc written • 1ux dollnrs arc con ervcd bv• not for pec1lk nrca w1th pectfic obJCC­ pcndmg large amount'> of money to tivc.s. ObjCCli\'C for prcscnbed bums aggrcs ivel) upprc ' l1rc;., in remote. on rhc r"'fugc are nom1all) hoked to nrc.. . impfO\ mg w1ldhfe habitat. enhancing habitat d1vers1ty. or hlll'ard reduction. • Supprc s1on re.5oum.--s can concen­ ~Pre.scrapuon ·• arc developed which trate on protecting developed or inhabited .,peel f) the mngc of environmental con­ areru and quickl) put out d~ctivc duion under wh1ch e<~ch bum will be Ftre Manogcme111 Officer I.arry Jfmderluulen ignites a pre:Jcribed burn on the rejugl'. fires that occur in tlrsc nrea~ .

Tetlin NWR Visitor Center Tlaga Trail Milepost 1229 Alaska Highway ~~ Mile loop Nature Trail Open Daily Birders Delight Deadman Lake Campground 7:00a.m. to 7:00p.m. Earty Morning BlrdwaJk Mtlepost 1249 Alaska Highway Meets at ~~ Tok Alaska Public Lands Information Center Wednesdays 7:00a.m. Interpreters Choice Deckslde Nature Talks Campfire Talk Tetlin NWR Visitor Center Deadman lake Campground Wednesdays 7:00p.m. Dally 10:00 a.m. & 3:00p.m. Wildlife Movies Tok Alaska Public lands Information Center Da1ly 9:00, 10:00, 11 :00 a.m. Tetlin NWR Headquarters 2:00, 3:00, 4:00, 5:00p.m. Alaska Highway Tok,Aiaska Interpretive Stations Open Monday-Friday Mileposts 8:00 a.m.-Noon 1227 1243 1269 1: 00 p.m.-5:00p.m. 1229 1252 1273

Alaska Public Lands Discovery Hike Information Center Meets at Tok,Aiaska Tok Alaska Public lands Open Daily Information Cen1er 8:00 a.m.-8:00 p m. Sundays 7:00p.m. ALASKA PUBLIC LANDS INFORMATION CENTER + Sourdough Campground

The Stage Stop Bed & Breakfast Grtzzly Auto Dept. of Tok Boreal Backpacking Transportation Softball Adventures Reld '~------~ Dept. of Natural Resources

Tok Open Daily 8:00 a.m.-8:00p.m. Clinic Tok Fire Dept. WILDLIFE MOVIE PROGRAMS 9, 10, 11 A.M. 2, 3, 4, 5 P.M. Senior Citizens Center TOKAIRPORT Vasi Air Golden Bear Gift Shop • Tok, Alaska Tok Don's Dureen's Lodge Store J I Pin Cushion Tok Mini Mart Tok Sateway -r::: .... ~ oa> ....G) Jack Wade (/.) G) C) Oo Gold GIS .r::: ·- "0~ ~ ~ r::: o:t:: 8 as .r::: .en ~0'-r::: G) CI)O .r::: r::: as t:: r::;CII 0 Clio. ~a. r:::{2 (.)(/) -o ... ~ g r::: 0 -::J ~ • ?l o- - II) as(/) >-- -::J(/) oo >- .... ~ as as J!!r::: - !!SO g>-Cll - .... as o o al .C::.r::; aS- ~G) -= cf~ ~- .... ~ ::J >o'Git:r G)CII CDCil ~(I) oo__,- .... FO ~ a!.o~~ ::J ·.;:; <- ~~ ·ci,e er::: 'Eo ·c o r::: > '- -0. as'- CDN ~Cl) 0 -(I) :::J .... as- ID r::: al (/) :::J ~~ C> -r::: - .r:::-= ~ _;:, asO. G) 0 r::: r::: .!! a> cr -CD 0~ CliO :::JG) ~- .... r:::...... ¥ Q) i!-<.... ~ Q) C>o -o ~ -~ Q) a.cf (I)Q) 'E"8 en _ enal = ID > ~ ALASKA HIGHWAY TO FAIRBANKS 'I • CQ - co - - c . 0 >as C)«)- "'ec- 4D ...... -E «<.. -.:: "0 't],_ c­ c C a. ::J CD 0«1 .!~ e~ '-r::: "O::J :;sO _, . -«< ::S:;s z E ...: '-r::: u;{i2 WCII ~~ o U 8 .r::: E._ ow ooa. ... <11<11 =c F z -01 as«~ .Q O G) -Cll ~~ Oa. --- ::s; 8~ (/) 3 u.a: G) -«~ a.E Q.c -Ill :I: u: _rn as •E (I) oU ~ ... - 0 ... J!!o •o «10.. ~ -.0 .0.!::: a: -c4(- en ::J ·- Ill a. E .!!? a~> -< .r::: 0 ..¥ {:2

FIRST AVENUE TokJob Alascom Office TokHigh School

Bureau of L; TO Land Management Lois's Iii- Bed & Breakfast S

Summer ivities • Tour the town on the red shuttle bus, dally 4-9 p.m. (fee).

• Square dancing at the Seniors' Center Tuesday nights.

• Dog demo, 7:30p.m. nightly (except Su~) at Burnt Paw.

• Bngo-Tuesday nights at Dog Mushers' Hall, Thursday night at VFW Hall. •

• NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE

Visiting Wrangell-St. Elias NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE

here are many ways to experience four mile uphill walk to the privately­ T the U.S.'s largest national park. The owned historic Keru1ecott mining com­ following information will help you plex. For those who'd rather not walk, decide on a park adventure to fit your shuttle rides are available thcough the interests. local lodges. BY ROAD-Two unpaved roads pen­ FLlGHTSEEING-Even a short ett·ate the park. The northern portion of flight over the Wrangells will convince the park can be reached via the Nabesna you that this is a spectacular mountain Road. From Slana on the Tok Cutoff, it wilderness. Charter aircraft are avail­ extends 46 miles to Nabesna, an inactive able in most communities including privately-owned mining community. Northway, Tok. Glennallen, and Me­ Caribou, moose, bear, sheep and water­ Canby. A list of air taxi operators is fowl may be seen from the road. Check available at information centers. at the Slana Ranger Station for the lat­ HIKING-Most backpackers and est road conditions and to pick up a dayhikers start from points along the Nabesna Road Guide. Slana-Nabesna or Chhina-McCarthy In the bean of the park lies the 61- roads. There are few trails, so most mile Chitina to McCarthy Road. This hiking is across what appears to be pre­ Russell Glacier in the St. Elias Mountains. In the background are Mt. Borw. road follows the old Copper River and viously untraversed terrain. Descrip­ (16,421') and Mt. Churchill (15,638'). Photo by George Herben. Northwestern Railroad route. Moose, tions of the most common routes and bear, sheep and bald eagles may be information on current conditions are seen. High clearance, two-wheel drive available at park ranger stations. Chitina rivers offer excellent rafting and obtain a park service permit to use vehicles can usually make the trip in MOUNTAINEERING-The park's kayaking opportunities. The 77-mile trip them. Snowmachines, horses and dog summer but check with the Chitina many glaciers, icefields, rivers, and down the Copper from Chitina to the teams may be used without a permit. Ranger Station for current road condi­ steep rock walls present endless chal­ Gulf of Alaska takes rafters through HUNTING AND FISHING- You tions and McCarthy Road Guides. lenges for mountaineers. Mounts Drum, some of the park's most rugged terrain. must have an Alaska license to sport The trip takes about four hours and Sanford. Blackburn, and St. Elias are Guided whitewater and ocean kayak hunt or fish in the national preserve. ends at the Kennicott River. You then favorites for climbing expeditions. trips are available. Check with a ranger station for seasons must hand-power a cable tram across the Guided trips are available. ATVs-All-terrain vehicles may be and location information. Local guides river to McCarthy. From McCarthy it's a WmTEWATER-The Copper and used on designated routes. You must are available. PARK

. W rangell-St. Elias is the: North America (the Malaspina, at rions of Dall Sheep in North Amer­ • largest U.S. national park over 800 square miles, is larger ica (about 12,000 animals). (l3.2 million acres). than the state of Rhode Island). • two caribou herds (Mentasta • largest designated wilderness • the largest non-polar icefield and Chisana). in U.S. (9.6 million acres). in North America (Bagley Icefield). • both grizz.ly and black bears. • designated World Heritage Site • the northernmost active vol­ • the northernmost population cano in North America (Mt. Wran­ of mountain goats. with Kluane National Park in • Canada. gell, L4,163'). • nesting ba.ld and golden eagles. • nine peaks over 14,000' and 14 • introduced herds of bison. Geography • over lO,()(XY. • over 200 bird species. The • four major mountain ranges Park is located on one of the ma­ The park and preserve contains: (Wrangell, St. Elias, Chugach and jor flyways for migrating birds in • the second highest peak 1n Alaska). Alaska. U.S. (Mt. St. Elias- 18,808'). • the longest inland glacier in Wildlife North America (Nabesna Glacier is The Wrangell Mountains are world­ about 70 miles long). The park and preserve has: renowned for large Da/l rams. • the largest piedmont glacier in • one of the largest concentra- Photo by Robert M. Butterfield. -~. • • - -. • ... , What is a National ..... •

Park & Preserve? l Chamber of Commerce VIsitor Info rmation Center-Located in he Alaska Lands Act of 1980 the log cabin at the junction ofthe TETLIN NATIONAL T established Wrangell-St. Elias Na­ Glenn and Richardson highways. WILDLIFE REFUGE tional Park and Preserve. Of the 13.2 Information on lodging, camping, Slana Ranger Sta­ restaurants, guide services, wor­ tion-on Nabesna million acres managed by the National ship services, etc. throughout Park Service, 8.3 million acres are des­ Road near junction, the Copper River Basin. Open Nabeana Road Mile 65.2 Tok cutoft. ignated as a national park and 4.8 mil­ 10-6 daily in the summer. Phone Open daily 8-5, lion acres has national preserve status. 822-5555. June 1 through Sept. The basic difference between a national Phone 822-3085. park and a national preserve is that sport To Anchorage - Glennalle~ hunting and trapping is allowed in the preserve. These activities are subject to / \ To Haines state and federal laws and regulations. Park Headquar ters Visitor McCarthy Junction Center-Mile 105.5 Old Rich­ ~~ ardson. Open daily 9-6, in sum­ FOR MORE INFORMATION: mer; M-F, 8-5 rest of the year. Wrangell-st. Elias Superintendent Park video, maps, book sales. Wrangell-St. Elias Phone 822-5234. NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE National Park and Preserve KLUANE P.O. Box 29 • NATIONAL Glennallen, AK 99588 Chitina Ranger Station-Mile PARK 33 Edgerton. Open daily 8-5, Memorial Day to Labor Day. EMERGENCY: DIAL 911. Slide/tape program on McCarthy State Troopers: 822-3263 Road. Phone 823-2205. Glennallen Clinic/Ambulance: 822-3203 The Tetlin Passage 1990 11 • Draw a line to match each animal with its • 10 TRACKS!

1. A.

7

B. 2.

• 19 21 •

• 6

22 ·-- 4 5 • 3. 24 . ~~ • 23 3 c. • • • 27 28 26

4. 0.

T his bird has a sharp, hooked biU and talons for catching tish... Connect the dots to find an. .

OSPREY E. (lrom Alaskan Wildlife Week, 1984) 1'3 PUB ~0 'S:J '\ 8 't'o' .SJ9MSU'cf Fascinating Facts

ne-halr of the world's population lack spruce trees (the small of sandh111l cranes (200,000 birds) tiny boreal chickadee is a hearty little bird. Unlike most birc;ls stunted evergreens seen throu~h­ migrate through the upper Tanana oul interior Alaska) live a hard life Valley each spring on their way to who migrate south for the wtrrter, the chickadee stays here the year on permafrost soils. A tw

c ....___ he TeUtn National Wildfife Refuge lack spruce trees need fire to lllllt\~ in eastern Atasl

P M U S K A A T 0 ~ WPGECVHUBCMYFW~... _, X T Y N I C E T Y B G Y N 0 U E W ''11-lij~~~--~--"'!"'""'!~~7~ _ S C G P M A l l A A D E T H I S Y I T P L I J U n - ~ E P ·~' S W A N T U F D Y 0 W B V J Q E Y L W; lV ~G~O.JO~S:iE;;;B~~ ~R;;.o.;;,E ....;l~T ""'O_R...,;E~V,...I ..;.R;...;,.T,;....,. H X f H U J I C l W G Y H U U J U A a_s n 'LHABITATCIHUNt ~ C K T B f R Y V T Y U 0 A 1N0rds? J L C C Y V Y E V I 0 X G Y 0 Can you find these V U Y ~.R C H A U 1 C H U S W • D Y H V X Y H G W Y V Y E 0 T _ RlverOtter - Mallard _ Water G R I V E R S L W Y F K F V SC CHW E YA\'UfJ - Beaver _ Loon - E T P X Y V U I c U f _ M-.. _ Moose Swan 0 E E S 0 0 M G V A GC UVUVU VR - WCJlland - Duck - Mosquito E Y Y N U ~ - WildHfe _ Lakes Eagle RUN - Hab1tat Rivers Sedge X T H ' 3

The Tetlin Passage 1989 OBSERVING WILDLIFE • Along the Alaska Highway by Terry Doyle s you travel along the Alaska high­ between wintering and breeding A way you may be surprised by the grounds. The best season to view birds in lack of wildlife. But if you look carefully this area is the breeding season of May you will see many bird species, and and June. It is during this season that perhaps a beaver or moose. most birds are actively singing and dis­ Most wildlife species are secretive in playing and can be most easily found. It is nature and not easily seen. This is under­ also the time of year when birds are most standable because for many of these spe­ brightly colored. Through July and cies their life depends on it. Species that August birds become more secretive and I ive off of other species are called preda­ less colorful. Some species of birds tors, the species they live off of are called become more visible as they begin to prey. Most species are prey to some group up in preparation for fall migra­ predator and so it becomes imponant to tions. August is a good time to see migrat­ be secretive when danger threatens. ing greater white-fronted and Canada On the other hand it is in. the predators geese, September is a good time to see interest to also be secretive so they can migrating sandhill cranes and October an sneak up on their prey so that they can excellent lime to see migrating trumpeter survive. It is a constant battle for both the and tundra swans. Mammals also make prey and the predators to survive. No seasonal movements but their movements wonder it can be so hard to find some are more specific to the individual spe­ species! cie!) than are bi rdl;. Some people seem lucky and see dif­ Bull Moose. There are 192 bird species and 44 species ferent wildlife species almost without of mammals that occur on or near the trying. But if you want to rely on more Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. But you than luck you must begin to think like the Common Loon. Plroto bv John Gavin. only have a day in the area to see wildlife, wildlife. not a lifetime. ln the map below are some One of the first things to think about is spots near the highway that support a a home. Most wildlife species have very large number of species or are a reliable specific homes or habitats that they live place. to conveniently see a. particular in. ·For instance it is much easier to find a speCICS. moose in a patch of thick brush along a waterway than it is in a thick spruce There are various interpretive and forest. That is because moose feed on a picnic pu lloffl> along the road where combination of shrubs arrd aquatic vege­ l-Ongbitds and small mammals may be tation during the summer but rarely feed Moose found. Bald eagles can often be found on spruce. On the other hand. as its name track. flying along the highway paralleling the Tanana River. implies, the spruce grouse is found in . spruce forests, not in open tundra. Get­ sunrise and in the early evening just which are active at night. called Although there is no guarantee of ting to know wild I ife habita:ts c'an become before sunset. During the midd1e of the nocturnal. finding a particular species at any one a hobby which lasts a lifetime. day, when humans tend to be most active. A third thing to consider when trying lime, you can greaLly increase your A second factor to consider when is actually the worst time to try and find to view wildlife is the season. Almost all chances of finding wildlife by checking trying to view wildlife is the time of day. wildlife because that's when wildlife spe­ species of wildlife have seasonal move­ habitat in the correct season at the right Almost all wildlite species are most cies are least active. There are some ments and activity patterns. Birds for time of day. active in the early morning just after species such as owls and flying squirrels instance, migrate thousands of miles

ALASKA HIGHWAY Milepost Guide

Milepost Look for:

1221.8 U.S. Customs Tetlin Indian 1223 Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge entrance sign. The small trees Reservation in this area indicate permafrost- permanently frozen soil below the ground. • 1223.4 This wetland area, the Scotty and Desper Creek bottoms, are productive waterfowl habitat. 1224.5 Highway Lake interpretive exhibit (under construction). Note the beaver lodge at the east end of Highway Lake. 1225.6 Desper Creek. A small boat ramp provides access to the refuge for canoes and other small boats. 1226 Arctic loons can often be seen in these marshes. 1226.5 Aspen, balsam poplar, and paper birch can be found along these hillsides. The predominant hill to the south is Airs Hill. Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge 1227.9 Corridors tor Passage interpretive exhibit. 1229 Tetlin National Wildlife Visitor Center. 1231 The large lake to the north is appropriately named, Island 1256.2 Look for bank swallow nests on the north side of the highway. Lake. 1238 Note the stabilized sand dunes in this area, visible at numer­ 1256.7 Lakeview Campground. Camping, waterfowl information and ous road cuts. viewing. 1240.2 The vertical culverts along the road are an attempt to prevent 1258 Eliza Lake is visible to the south of the highway. the permafrost from thawing. 1263.5 The Chisana River (shoe-san'-ah) parallels the highway for 1243.6 The Changing Landscape interpretive exhibit. approximately five miles. 1244 The rugged mountains visible to the north are the Mentasta 1264 Northway Junction. Mountains, part of the Alaska Range. 1269 Highways of Water interpretive exhibit. About 100 yards 1246.7 Gardiner Creek bridge. Grayling fishing is best here in early upstream rrom the point the Chisana and Nabesna Rivers join spring and late fall. to form tha Tanana (tan'-nah-naw) River. 1249.3 Deadman Lake Campground. Refuge waterfowl information, 1273 Ponds are not Forever interpretive exhibit. camping, fishing, and nature trail (under construction). 1284 Tetlin National Wildlife entrance sign.

1250.2 Picnic area. 1289 The large lake to the south of the highway is Midway Lake • 1252 Solar Basin interpretive exhibit. 1301.7 Tetlin Junction. 1253 The hills ahead are known as the Tetlin Hills. Peninsula and 1303.3 Tanana R1ver bndge. Yarger Lakes are visible just to the south of the highway. 1309.3 Tok River State Campground. 4

The Tetlin Passage 1989 Alas Words You May Not Know compiled by Dennis Rogers '' n your travels through Alaska this year Lower 48-the 48 contiguous United I you may stumble upon some obscure States Alaskan words that you may not be fumil­ Monitor-a large nozzle used to direct iar with. Below is an "Alaskan Dictio­ water into a hillside in hydraulic nary·· with some words you may hear this m10mg summer. Hopefully. by using this list you Moraine-a glacial deposit of debris will be able to understand the 49th ~tate a Mukluks-native boots maue from ani­ I ittle easier. mal skins Muskeg-a grassy bog or swamp where Alcan-the Alaska Highway. formerly r the Alaska-Canada Highway little can grow exceptforblackspruce. dwarf birch, and other shrubby plants Alpine-elevated slopes above the treeline Nunatak-a mountain peak poking out Phoro courresy of Tetlin NWR. Aurora Borealis-the northern lights; of an icefield streams of light ascending in fan and Outside-local term used by Alaskans to ribbon shapes from the northern hori­ refer to anywhere out of the state Alaskan Songs zon caused by the ejection of charged Pemmican-dried, pounded meat mixed with flour, molasses, and suet HEL~ particles into the magnetic field of the THAT CAN PASS THE TIME earth Permafrost - permanently frozen Babiche (BAH-BEESH)-strips of ground semi-tanned caribou or moose hide Piogos-low, rounded mounds created Twinkle, twinkle Northern Lights, Home, home in the snow Boreal- subarctic by frost action, rising from the tundra sparkle in the arctic night. Where it's mild Bush -any part of Alaska not accessible Placer (PLAS-SIR)-a deposit of sand when it's forty below by road or gravel containing particles of gold Up above the clouds so high, Cabin Fever -depressed state of mind Poke-a small bag of gold dust But the sun shines for me • blue-green ribbons in the sky. blamed on cold, dark. winter weather By the greaJ Bering Sea Potla tch-a feast for the dead and an when people are housebound elaborate ceremonial display at which Twinkle, twinkle Northern Lights, In the life ofth e gay sourdough. Cache (CASH) -a small, elevated struc­ valued. gifts are given to prove wealth shimmer in my dreams tonight. (TUNE: "Home on the Range," c, 1873) ture for food storage or attam presuge. (TUNE: "Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star." Calving-the breaking off or a piece of Skookum -strong. active, a go-getter Music traditi0nal from France; When it's springtime itJ Alaska ice from a glacier used as early as 1765) A nd it's forty-five below Cheechako (CHEE-CH AK-KO)-a Sluice ..... a long inclined trough with newcomer, tenderfoot, greenhorn grooves or riffles on the bottom where All tlze Eskimos go barefoot gold is caught and dirt and rocks are Because they like the snow. Dene-the Athabaskan people Oh, give me a home Diamond Willow-oneoffivespeciesof washed through Between Fairbanks and Nome All the polar bears get sunburned willow where a fungi is thought to Sourdough-an old timer Where the moose And the seals all lose their hair cause diamond-shaped patterns in the Taiga (TIE-GAH) - .. ubarcLic land of and the caribou play When it's springtime in Alask4 wood stunted coniferous trees Fish Wheel-a device turned by the cur­ Thndra-a treeless vegetation of moss­ Where nothing will grow And it's forty-five below up there. rent of a river, scooping fish into a es, lichens, herbs. ant.! dwarfshmbs in 'Cause it's covered with snow (TUNE: ''When It's Springtime in the Rockies,'' holding box arctic and alpine areal. Rrom June to the following May. c. 1929) Fjord-a narrow inlet flanked by steep Tussock -a tall clump or rufu of growing cliffs grasses or sedges held together by a Husky-any sled dog dense root system ' vas( expanse of land and customs more The Bird Detective ' Great Land (cont.) similar than different. A tremendous ,. source of information exists for the casual SCORING & ANSWERS "' Wildlife Refuges in the state that can be readers, curious traveler, and profes­ reached by a road system. Secondly, the sional researcher within the mountains, Tetlin. along with the Kenai are the only Answers to the Bird Detective valleys. and riverbeds of this unique Alaska Natural History Association two that were mandated by law to provide region we know as the Tetlin National Bird A - Trumpeter Swan for interpretation and education concern­ Wildlife Refuge. Bird B - Common Raven The Alaska Nmura/ History A.ssociaritm l$ a ing the environment. With these distinc­ Bird C - Spruce Grouse tWnprojit organi-:t:ltitm t ___ lr\il't'. U.S. Rm!st campgrounds, nature trails, and a very existed, it would have been right next to Sen'ice, U.S. Fish cmd Wild/ift Sen·il'(', Alaska friendly interpretive staff to assist you. Tok! Scoring Summary Dn·ilmn of Parks and Owdo<>r Recremirm and the There are a number of other purposes During the last Ice Age, glaciers lmeragt•ncr Visiwr Celltt?rs ill Alaska. Public First clue ...... 4 points memher.,·ltip.•· are aw1i/able Ill rltt•se wlto are for which the refuge was set aside, includ­ flowed north out of the Alaska Range, but ing conservation ofentire ecosystems in a Second clue ...... 3 points illll'restt•d in the goCI/s nne/ purpose! of ANHA. never quite reached this area. The Tanana Third clue ...... 2 points Membt•rx rt•ct!ir•e 11 15% tfiscoumat ollofrlll' natural diversity, international treaty Alctsktm sales mu/ers bllt( atnumy l'isiwr t'l'llrer.l River valley, being ice-free, was home to Fourth clue ...... l point obligations, subsistence uses. and water a huge variety of animals including our in mher .1tnres. quality -all of which are important. We No answer ...... •...... 0 points "State Fossil" the Woolly Mammoth. It Wrong answer ...... • ...... 0 point$ feel that the environmental education was cut off from the North American purposes may be the most important or all continent by ice, but was attached to because it is you, as the nation's public. Russia via a land bridge formed as ice Add up aU your individual clue scores that will be deciding the future of these caused the sea level to drop. Meltwater natural wonders that still exist. We hope to arrive at a total score. Then review stream flowing northward from the the ratings below to see how you did ycu enjoy your visit and leave Alaska a Alaska Range glaciers laid down blankets more informed conservationist. Have overall. Upper Tanana Natural of sandy silt throughout this area. Cold History Association fun! winds blowing over the drying river beds picked up the dirt and created great Bird Ratings Tills publiC'otion is madt possible in part by the History (cont.) clouds of silt that settled as thick deposits o/1/>rtmding \'Oiumt'l!r ejfom nf rhr mtmb<'ri>hlp tJ/ called '1oess." The heavier sand was Points Scored Rating the Upper Tanana N(Uurol Hisrory .4ssvdarion. Fortymile and Klondike gold regions. separated out by the winds and it moved 18-20 ...... King Eider CfrNHA. i.v a nonprofit educOlirmnl f/rga11i:.nrio11 dedirored Ul prom(1ting awartness mul u11der· Trails also connected with southern along the ground forming immense sand 14-17 .... • ...Emperor Goose sra11ding ofthe llnt(tm/, cu/wra/. and llisrorh' routes, allowing contact with people in dunes. You can see these dunes along the I 0-13 ...... Common Loon resourus ofrhe uppt>r Tanahtt area. Memhl!rsltip the Copper River area, southern Yukon Alaska Highway before you come to 5-9 ...... Least Flycatcher i,\tll'(li/a/11<' tn our imeresrctl ptrsons. Pfeosl! Northway, and also along the flfSt part of Below 5 ...... B lue-footed Booby writl': UTNH.¥1, P.O. Box 16.1, Tak. Alaska 99780 and northern British Columbia, and for mort' itifonnarion. southeast Alaska. the Taylor Highway. Even today with roads, electric power, running water, and television, the eastern FOR MORE INFORMATION: Interior remains in the beginning stages A Special Thanks to All Contributors Refuge Manager of historic understanding. Contact Editing by Craig Perham Desig11 and Production b,1· Du11ham IlltMirtJtirm Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge Box 155 among Canadian, Coastal, and Interior Prodttcrion CocmlinatiOII by Fronkie Bnrkur. ANHA. T,1peseuing by Vi10ib/c Ink Wilt.iflower il/ustraiions COtlrtesy ofthe CES. UAF Primiltg by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Tok, Alaska 99780 peoples traces trade and trav~l routes (907) 883-5312 across Refuge lands to beyond, linking a