Sanctuary | Destination More at www.sanctuaryasia.com | Destination Mannar ’s Far Corner

Sri Lanka’s island of Mannar is rich in antiquity, myth and natural history.

Ian Lockwood explores the wildlife and landscape of this far-off land that Baobab Adansonia digitata trees in Mannar, found otherwise only in arid Madagascar, is a crucial transit point for species migrating back and forth between the mainland Africa, Arabia and Australia, were planted by pearl traders from Arabia hundreds Indian peninsula and its southern neighbour. of years ago.

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Myth and history mix freely Highlands and southern ranges that in the waves gently lapping on the are a magnet for wildlife enthusiasts. shores of Mannar, the tongue-shaped The land in Mannar is low, barely a few island in north-west Sri Lanka. Here metres above sea level, the climate is stories of monkey armies, great exceedingly dry and the area is sparsely mythological battles and Adam & Eve populated with humans. Other than the precede a timeline of colonial conquest rich layers of Mannar’s history, now and the search for the pearls and mostly lost in sand and surf, or the riches of Serendib. In modern times quirky feral donkeys that wander the the island was on the frontlines of the streets, it is the non-human migrants violent, tragic conflict that engulfed that draw visitors up to this isolated Sri Lanka for nearly three decades. corner of Sri Lanka. Today the guns are silent and Mannar and its surrounding areas are inching A key birding area forward to a new day. For most people Mannar serves as a key transit point there is not much here; extremely dry, on the flyway for birds migrating from hot and seemingly barren landscapes. India into Sri Lanka. Some of the birds However, the area’s stunning wildlife, stop and spend the winter months on in particular its birds are what makes the island and shoals of Adam’s Bridge waders, egrets, herons, storks and birds area, the flamingos also frequent the Mannar significant for people interested while others continue further south. The of prey that are drawn to ’s salt turns adjoining the dusty Mannar in natural history. birds enjoy a designated Protected Area wetlands during winter. township. The larger groups are often For a relatively small island, in the Vankalai Sanctuary that covers The most famous winter visitors seen in the shallow sea water north of Sri Lanka hosts a number of different the area where Mannar is connected in Vankalai are the Greater Flamingos the causeway that connects Mannar to landscapes, each of them hosting to the mainland by a low causeway. Phoenicopterus roseus, flying across the the mainland. If you’re in the right place diverse assemblages of life and rich Vankalai consists of low-lying, salty mud Palk Straits from locations in southern you can witness a mass of pink feathers cultural traditions. The country has plains. When theses low areas fill with India. During the civil war years, their flying over you. four different climatic zones that play water from the northeast monsoon, numbers were not monitored carefully Besides Vankalai, there are some a key role in the biogeography of mixed with salt water from high tides, and population estimates have varied Protected Areas on Mannar Island its biodiversity. Most of the country the area offers a bonanza for visiting over the last few decades. In the recent as well. However, the whole island is divided between the dry, wet and birds. Several roads bisect Vankalai winter season there were two to three offers a variety of habitats and niches intermediate zones. Mannar is in a small allowing visitors to view birds without large groups of greater flamingos, with where wildlife thrives. The island is sliver “arid zone” and is quite different having to disturb them by venturing at least one group having hundreds composed of palmyrah groves, seasonal from the wet forests of the Central into the lagoon. There are a variety of of individuals. Aside from the Vankalai wetlands, dunes and small settlements

TOP Brown-headed Gulls Chroicocephalus brunnicephalus fly overhead as fishermen go about their daily activities at the pier at Taimanar, located on the western coast of the island. Sunset at Adam’s Bridge, a long chain of BOTTOM Enthusiastic birders, tourists and limestone shoals between Rameshwaram locals gathered at North Beach. As Mannar Island, situated southeast of Tamil Nadu’s is a temporary host to a large population of coast and Mannar Island, makes for a migratory birds travelling from India to Sri picturesque image. Lanka, it is ideal as a birding destination.

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Wildlife – Boon or Bane? STAYING IN MANNAR In recent years Sri Lanka’s wildlife has gained popular attention and a study by the Sri Lanka Tour Operators cited 38 per cent of all Birdwatchers and naturalists have foreign tourists visiting at least one national park or Protected Area during their visits. Compared to its neighbours this is a significant several places to stay in Mannar. Four figure for Sri Lanka. Thus, conservation efforts have economic as well as ecological and environmental benefits. Local communities Tees, run by the knowledgeable and next to Protected Areas have benefited from jobs and employment in the sector and there is generally good support for wildlife friendly local entrepreneur named conservation in Sri Lanka. However, some parks have very high numbers of jeep-based tourists. Vehicles jostle and compete with Laurence, is an excellent place to each other for sightings. When are sighted, cell phone messages go out and soon noisy, traffic jams surround the access a variety of habitats. Laurence unfortunate leopards. The experience is not pleasant in Yala for most of the year or Mineria during its highly publicised “elephant guides his guests to all the key bird gathering.” Whale watching efforts have faced challenges with management and protocols for engaging marine mammals. On the other watching locations and serves famous crab and fish curries. Further up the hand, birdwatching and tourism in Sinharaja rainforest is approaching the ideals of . All visitors must employ guides drawn ABOVE Mannar’s seemingly barren landscape from local communities, but trained by the Forest Department. Visitation in Sinharaja is based on walking rather than vehicle tours. No road the Palmyrah House offers a can be deceiving; in reality, the island is a haven large hotel chains are active here and accommodation is locally run. Until recently when power lines were brought in, most electricity luxurious place to stay. They always for many species of migratory birds such as was generated on small-scale hydro generators. The model is worth emulating in other locations in South Asia. have a naturalist on staff. these flamingos that arrive here seasonally from the Indian peninsula.

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of fishing communities. Grey Francolins shallow – it is not difficult to see how Francolinus pondicerianus are found this was an important migration route throughout the island including the for animals and humans when sea levels densely packed, leafy neighbourhoods were lower during past ice ages. Unless of Mannar town. The Old Dutch you have special permission from the fort at the edge of Mannar town is Navy most people are unable to access an interesting destination and is a these low-lying islands hosting several good place to look out for flamingos rare birds that have been monitored and soaring birds of prey like the by ornithologists. White-bellied Sea-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster. Mannar’s baobab Trouble in paradise Adansonia digitata trees, planted by Although Mannar is being recognised Arab pearl traders several hundred for its rich biodiversity, its future is years ago, are a magnet for common not guaranteed. Some of its human birds and visitors like Rosy Starlings inhabitants are now enthusiastically Pastor roseus. Seasonal wetlands come involved in ecotourism ventures alive between November and February and recognise the special value that and create opportunities for complex the island has. On the other hand, food chains. the government has cleared areas On the western edge of the island, for housing former IDPs (Internally the pier at Taimanar (where the ferry displaced people) in poorly chosen sites used to leave for Rameshwaram) is well that play a role in bird migration. A known for its gull populations drawn wind turbine farm is planned and the by the adjoining fishing villages. A few EIA for this project is available to the kilometres away from Talimanar it is public. Given the importance of Mannar possible to walk along the beach to in the annual migration of birds into Sri where the shoals of Adam’s Bridge Lanka, this seems like a poorly-thought (Ram Setu) lead off to the west. The out plan. y seas around these islands are very

TOP A satellite map of Mannar Island, depicting Adam’s Bridge, Vankalai Sanctuary, Mannar Another view of Adam’s Bridge. Many Town and other landmarks. geologists believe that this strip could BOTTOM A pair of Woolly-necked Storks Ciconia previously have connected Sri Lanka to India. episcopus spotted at the Wilpattu National Park.

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