Autumn 2020 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 135

HILLWALKING • CLIMBING • MOUNTAINEERING

Irish Peaks published Large format guide to hundred highest

Arderins list All Irish mountains over 500 metres: a lifetime challenge

www.mountaineering.ie For more information visit www.mountaineering.ie or contact the office on (01) 625 1115

:LY]PUN[OLOPSS^HSRLYZHUK JSPTILYZVM0YLSHUKZPUJL  A WORD FROM THE EDITOR

ISSUE 135 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering . The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland.

Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and éad míle fáilte! I hope that you registered in , No 199053. have continued to stay safe Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, over the summer. The Covid-19 National Sports Campus, restrictions have been eased ❝ Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. The Arderins list of Irish somewhat, allowing us to get Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 back to the , albeit in a mountains presents a lifetime [email protected] controlled way while ensuring social C challenge to hillwalkers www.mountaineering.ie distancing. As we go to print, the situation has deteriorated and there are likely to be fabulous, beautifully produced guidebook Hot Rock Climbing Wall Tollymore Mountain Centre increasing restrictions around the country and a fitting tribute to Joss Lynam, who on social contacts in an attempt to slow Bryansford, Newcastle edited the original Irish Peaks book in 1982. County Down, BT33 0PT the spread of the virus. Hearty congratulations are due to Alan and While relevant news is fairly limited at Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 Margaret Tees, who drove the project, and [email protected] this time, we do still have a very full to Helen Lawless, who brought the book to magazine. We have a short report on this publication. The book can still be Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan year’s AGM, which was held virtually at the purchased at a member’s discounted price Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) end of June. This important meeting was through Mountaineering Ireland’s website. [email protected] well attended virtually, with over fifty Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill The other big news is the agreement [email protected] members logging in online. between Mountaineering Ireland and The Annual Review for 2019, which would MountainViews to promote the Arderins The Irish Mountain Log is published by normally have been circulated in hard copy list of Irish mountains 500 metres or higher Mountaineering Ireland four times a at the AGM, is included in this issue of the as a “lifetime challenge akin to the Sottish year, in March, June, September, Irish Mountain Log. Hopefully, that will give .” This is a welcome development for December. The material published in more members a chance to read this hillwalkers and will hopefully take some of the Log by the voluntary editorial team and contributors must not be taken as excellent review by the staff of the pressure off the usual honeypots, Mountaineering Ireland of their activities official Mountaineering Ireland policy where the footfall pressure is unless specifically stated. in 2019 “working for and representing environmentally unsustainable. hillwalkers and climbers” on the island of Despite the lockdown, so far it has been Copy deadline for the Winter 2020 Ireland. As CEO Murrough McDonagh says an exciting year for Mountaineering Ireland, issue of the Irish Mountain Log is: in the review, it was “an extremely busy and with several important events held Friday, October 30th 2020. enjoyable year for Mountaineering Ireland.” successfully. Hopefully, we will be able to It has continued to be busy for continue to get out into the uplands in Advertising: [email protected] Mountaineering Ireland in 2020, with the some manner during the coming months. Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn, long-awaited publication of Irish Peaks, a Keep safe! hillwalking guidebook to routes on Ireland’s [email protected] one hundred highest peaks. This is a Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020  Write for the Log PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger of personal Contributions of features, news items and photographs for injury or death. Participants in these the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be activities should be aware of and sent to the Editor at: [email protected]. accept these risks, and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the Mountaineering Ireland publishes and Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. promotes safety and good practice ON THE COVER advice and through the Mountain Towards Tievummura (762m) and Training Board of Ireland administers a To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the Tievenabinnia in the Sheeffry Hills, range of training programmes for . Photograph taken Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please walkers and climbers. also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. from Irish Peaks.

PHOTOGRAPH MARGARET TEES Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 3 Fleeting shadow highlights Brassel Mountain, an of 575m (50m prominence) CONTENTS nestling under the main ridge Autumn 2020 of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks

13 Dealing with call-outs during News the Covid-19 pandemic 5 Covid-19 advice Ruth Cunniffe reports 6 Cairn on Seahan 14 Celebrate walking! mountain damaged Linda Sankey reports Geraldine Stout reports 15 Walking and wellbeing 7 The Arderins list Linda Sankey reports Ruth Whelan reports 16 Mountaineering Ireland 8 Mountaineering Ireland Lynam Lecture 2020 holds virtual AGM A report by Patrick O’Sullivan News Feature 9 A trailblazing climber’s 18 The Arderins memoir is published By the Arderins Subcommittee 10 Be ‘AdventureSmart’! Jane Carney reports Features 11 European Week of Sport: 20 Ancient monarch th September 23-30 By Don Baldwin ANNUAL REVIEW 2019 Ania Bakiewicz reports 24 Six favourites 29 12 Covid-19 memories to By Richard Creagh be collected 29 Annual Review 2019 Jane Maxwell reports 42 Hiking in Crete 46 In the Schweizerland Alps 12 Crossword results By Aongus Ó hAonghusa By Harry Harbison 50 Climbing the Nose By Paul Collins 55 Where cactus is king By Kevin Higgins Regulars 28 Crossword Competition 58 Club and Member Support Meeting Siobhan Quinn reports 60 Training Jane Carney reports 62 Books Reviews of recent books 6 SEAHAN MOUNTAIN CAIRN DAMAGED 66 The Last Word (1930-2020) Photographs: Simon Stewart (Brassel), Cóilín MacLochlainn (Seahan) Cóilín MacLochlainn (Brassel), Simon Stewart Photographs: 4 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Staff & Board General enquirieS [email protected] Newsdesk Staff Chief executive Officer Murrough McDonagh, [email protected] administration Officer Siobhán Quinn, [email protected] Hillwalking Development Officer Ruth Whelan, [email protected] access & Conservation Officer Helen Lawless, [email protected] Women in Sport Coordinator Ania Bakiewicz, [email protected] training Officer Jane Carney, [email protected] training & Membership Support administrator Laura Griffin, [email protected] Climbing Officer Damien O’Sullivan, [email protected] Youth Development Officer for Covid-19 advice Kevin Kilroy, [email protected] Our latest advice for hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland Get irelanD WalkinG initiative Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking to hillwalking and climbing. We have Jason King, [email protected] produced specific advice to support Communications & administrative Officer, hillwalkers and climbers in making a Get ireland Walking return to activity in a safe and Linda Sankey, [email protected] responsible manner in the continuing presence of Covid-19. That advice is MOuntaineerinG irelanD BOarD OffiCerS available through our website, With the easing of restrictions on President www.mountaineering.ie. Paul Kellagher movement and socialisation in July, we Underpinning that specific advice for [email protected] have been able to return to the hills and hillwalkers and climbers is the general Chairperson crags of Ireland, albeit in a somewhat public health advice issued by the Paul Barron restricted way, with the need to still government on reducing the [email protected] maintain social distancing and with limits transmission of Covid-19 and any further on group sizes. possibly local restrictions that the BOarD MeMBerS The benefits to the environment of our Department of Health feels are necessary Imelda Buckley prolonged absence and the general as the situation develops. (Chair of Finance, Audit & Risk Committee) reduction in footfall in the uplands were Mountaineering Ireland’s advice is [email protected] very evident, with the growth of the David Pollard aimed at all hillwalkers and climbers. The vegetation surrounding paths and on the (Chair of Access & Conservation Committee) purpose of that specific advice for paths themselves. [email protected] hillwalkers and climbers is to highlight We must always remember that Covid- Trish Kane 19 is still in our communities and that we any additional considerations that we [email protected] should be aware of while engaging in our Colette Mahon all need to continue to play our part in keeping it under control. We have sport in the presence of Covid-19. It [email protected] builds on the good practice which is Michael Maunsell changed the way we live and the already commonplace among [email protected] government is hoping that, as the Gráinne McLaughlin restrictions are eased on our personal responsible hillwalkers and climbers, (Chair of Hillwalking Committee) and social lives, we will maintain those checking the weather forecast, checking [email protected] changes in terms of increased hand access arrangements, selecting routes Clare O’Connor hygiene, improved cough etiquette, that are appropriate for the fitness, skill [email protected] adequate social distancing and restricted and experience of the people you are Dawson Stelfox socialisation. hiking or climbing with, environmental (Chair of Mountain Training Board Ireland) This is where personal responsibility awareness, and so on. [email protected] has to come to the fore. We must all do Mountaineering Ireland is continually Geoff Thomas our best to reduce the spread of this reviewing our Covid-19 Advice for (Chair of Climbing Committee) virus, particularly as we head into the Hillwalkers and Climbers document and [email protected] winter months and probably until we the summary sheet. The most recent Noel Caffrey have a safe and effective vaccine. versions of these resources can be [email protected] Mountaineering Ireland continues to accessed via the website, encourage a safe and responsible return www.mountaineering.ie ■ Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 5 Photographs: Chris Corlett fromcairn. the periphery of the monument, using the stone stone shelters have beenbuilton the Monument DU024-047----). Intrusive, dry- mountain, (Recorded damage to oneparticular cairn, onSeahan concerning reports from the publicabout Monuments Service However, in the last year the National under the National Monuments Acts. communities in the region. funerary remains of the earliest farming (artificial hillsof loosestones) contain the coherent territory (see map). These cairns summits of the mountains, forming a tombs crown the western andnorthern uplands, the cairnsof prehistoric passage Within the southDublinandnorth Service) By Geraldine Stout (National Monuments Cairn onSeahanmountain damaged 6 Hillwalkers are urged to report any damage they find to prehistoric monuments in the hills (right) to buildadrystone shelter (centre foreground). An Ordnance Survey trig-point islocated on top of the cairn Large grass-covered prehistoric cairnon the summitof Seahanin the DublinMountains, showing where stones were recently removed NEWS Dry-stone shelter on the cairn Cairns are legally protected by the State Irish Mountain Log L0G has received several [email protected] phoning 018882000 cairns, theyreportit to the ask that, if mountaineers notice any damage to any of these mountains are respectful of these monuments. We would National Monuments Servicestaff. been dismantled under archaeological supervisionby result inremains beingexposed. The shelters have since protect the human remains, so removal of these stones can Weknow that thevastmajorityof visitors to these Originally, cairnswere placedover the burialchamber to or emailing National Monuments Service as soonpossible Autumn 2020 ■ by The Arderins list We announce an official list of Irish summits for hillwalkers on the island of Ireland

By Ruth Whelan (for the Arderins Subcommittee)

Mountaineering Ireland and MountainViews have collaborated to develop an all-island list of Irish mountains capable of acquiring the status and recognition of the Scottish list. A working group comprised of members of Mountaineering Ireland’s Hillwalking Committee and members of MountainViews was set up to develop an official list of Irish summits. Both organisations were concerned to avoid encouraging any development which could be detrimental to the unspoilt nature of Irish hills or to the environment. They were also conscious that the uplands in Ireland are used by Aghla More (581m) above Lough Feane in the Derryveagh Mountains, Co Donegal hillwalkers in a very patchy way. The Wicklow area, the Mournes and the Reeks are arguably overused, while equally exciting hills in many other areas expressed and understood. The term ■ Rural development Enhances the are virtually unused. An accepted list ‘Arderin’ is symbolic, meaning ‘the height viability of more remote communities might encourage a more evenly spread of Ireland’ in Irish, as well as being the by bringing visitors. Helps raise usage. name of a located close to the interest in the archaeological and geographical centre of the island. cultural heritage of the area, and The vision stimulates the development of the The value of the list very rudimentary support facilities The vision was to arrive at an agreed list required for this activity. of Irish hills, defined according to certain ■ Environment Spreads the criteria, which would encourage environmental impact of hillwalking hillwalkers to explore upland areas over a greater number of areas. Challenge yourself: throughout the island, without Certain areas bear a walk the Arderins compromising the wildness, uniqueness disproportionate amount of Hillwalkers can log Arderins as they and environment which give Ireland its hillwalking activity in Ireland and are complete them on the Mountaineering character. consequently the most Ireland or the MountainViews websites. The members of the Working Group environmentally impacted. The list is There will be recognition of successful were mindful of the success of projects geographically wide-ranging on the completion of the Arderins on an such as the Munros in Scotland and the island, with twenty-six of the thirty- ongoing basis. To date (as of August Highpointers lists in the US. They saw two counties represented, and it 2020), nine hillwalkers have completed the Arderins as being the premier list, includes many challenging peaks. all 406. the extent and nature of which, and the ■ Hillwalking as a sport Supports, Generally, responsible hillwalkers enjoy effort which it took to complete, increases awareness of and unhindered access to Ireland’s providing hillwalkers and clubs with a promotes the further development mountains and upland areas, due to the serious challenge usually undertaken of the sport of hillwalking. goodwill and tolerance of the over a lifetime of walking. It was Encourages young people to see landowners. Maintaining access and therefore agreed that the Arderins list hillwalking as a challenge. Develops good relations with landowners and was the most appropriate for Ireland’s skills of fitness, navigation, self- local communities is a shared official mountain list. reliance and route-finding. A list of responsibility among hillwalkers. Even mountains provides a framework for though some routes are well- Arderins discussion of routes, summit established, this does not confer a legal The Arderins is a list of 406 mountains advantages and disadvantages, right of entry. access issues and culture. that are 500m or greater in height with a For further information please go to prominence of at least 30m, which is ■ Health Supports the development mountainviews.ie or mountaineering.ie objective and capable of being easily of walking as a wellness activity. ■ Photograph: Simon Stewart Photograph: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 7 NEWSL0G

Mountaineering Ireland holds virtual AGM

Mountaineering Ireland’s first ever virtual Annual General Meeting was held online on June 24th, 2020

Almost fifty members participated in The Standing Orders were adopted by the meeting, including delegates from the meeting, as were the minutes of the the following clubs: last AGM, held on March 30th, 2019, in Sport HQ in happier times. ■ Arklow and Wicklow Hillwalkers The President, Paul Kellagher, was ■ Beanna Beola Hillwalking Club unable to join the meeting and his ■ Blarney Walking Group report was taken as read. CEO Murrough ■ Blayney Ramblers McDonagh presented the Company By Patrick O’Sullivan Secretary’s report, which demonstrated ■ Clare Outdoor Club that the Company had observed good ■ Cumann Siúil Cois Coiribe Given the difficulties presented by the governance during 2019. Covid-19 pandemic in terms of ensuring ■ Cork Youth Climbing Club The main business of the meeting was social distancing, etc, the 2020 Annual ■ Dublin Cliffhangers Youth Climbing the approval of the company’s audited General Meeting (AGM) of Club Financial Statements for 2019 by the Mountaineering Ireland was held online ■ Galtee Walking Club members, so that Mountaineering via Zoom at 7.00pm on June 24th, 2020. ■ Ireland could be seen to be accountable It was chaired by the Chairperson of the Galway Walking Club to its members and also meet the Board, Paul Barron. ■ Glencree Walkers requirements of the funding bodies and ■ Glenwalk the Charities Commission. Agenda ■ Irish Mountaineering Club The audited accounts for the year ■ Adoption of Standing Orders ■ Irish Ramblers Club were presented by Imelda Buckley, ■ Adoption of Minutes of the 2019 ■ Kick Ass Adventures Chair of the Finance, Audit and Risk AGM Committee. They showed that, despite ■ Mid Tipp Hillwalkers ■ President’s Address the challenging times we are going ■ Midleton Hillwalking Club ■ Election to Full Membership of through, Mountaineering Ireland had ■ Na Sléibhte Hillwalking Club Aspirant Clubs encouragingly ended the year with a ■ New Ross Ramblers small surplus of just over €3,000, ■ Company Secretary’s Report ■ Peaks Mountaineering Club undoubtedly as a result of careful ■ Approval of Financial Statements for budgetary control throughout the year 2019 ■ Queen’s University Belfast by the CEO and his staff. The full audited ■ Mountaineering Club Appointment of Auditor for 2020 accounts can be seen on ■ Rosway Walkers ■ Statements regarding Safeguarding www.mountaineering.ie. ■ and Anti-doping Skerries Walking Club Mountaineering Ireland’s statements ■ ■ Nominations for election to the Swilly Hiking Club on safeguarding and anti-doping were Board of Mountaineering Ireland ■ The Trekkers Mountaineering Club approved by the meeting. The meeting

8 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 also elected Noel Caffrey, a long- ■ South East Climbing Club The Board of Mountaineering standing member of the Irish ■ Red Cow Mountaineering Club Ireland extended its thanks to the Mountaineering Club, to be a member of ■ Trekking NI members who participated in the the Board of Directors of the Company. AGM and to those who watched it ■ Queen’s University Belfast The AGM agreed to grant full live on YouTube. Thanks were also Mountaineering Club membership to the following eight given to the staff team, who ■ clubs: Knocklyon Hillwalking Club organised the logistics for ■ Valeo Hiking Club Mountaineering Ireland’s first ever ■ NCIC Community Climbers ■ New Ross Ramblers virtual AGM ■

A trailblazing climber’s memoir is published

few people ventured into the hills, unless they were out searching for sheep. In the decades since then, Clare has been a very active climber, both in Ireland and abroad (in the Alps, the Himalayas and the Americas) and her experiences, along with those of her husband Calvin Torrans, give a unique perspective on many of the achievements, trends and debates that have shaped the Clare Sheridan’s new book, development of Irish climbing. Uncoiling the Ropes: The Memoir The book is available from of a Trailblazing Irish Climber, has the Mountaineering Ireland’s recently been published by online store at Press. It will be of www.mountaineering.ie/shop great interest to many Mountaineering Ireland and from The Dublin Climbing members as Clare’s story spans Centre at over half a century of Irish [email protected]. mountaineering history. Uncoiling the Ropes will be As a child, Clare under the reviewed in the Winter 2020 spell of wild Irish landscapes issue of the Irish Mountain Log. and went on to become a And Clare still really values a Clare Sheridan on Orpierre in the Hautes-Alpes, regular hillwalker at a time when day out in the Irish hills! ■ Photograph: Calvin Torrans Calvin Photograph: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 9 NEWSL0G Be ‘AdventureSmart’! Get the skills and be safe on your mountain adventures

By Jane Carney prevent potentially (Training Officer) avoidable incidents in upland areas here. As announced in the Spring One way for people 2020 issue of the Irish Mountain who are returning to the Log (IML 133, page 6), Irish upland areas after Mountaineering Ireland and the lockdown (or maybe Mountain Training Board Ireland just going there for the have recently become partners first time) to be sure that of AdventureSmart.UK. People they can answer the enjoying the coast and questions posed by countryside across the island of AdventureSmart is to Ireland will now be encouraged spend time in the hills to be ‘AdventureSmart,’ with the with a registered training launch of this new Ireland and provider, a UK outdoor safety campaign. Mountaineering The aim of AdventureSmart is Instructor. to reduce the number of Irish providers have all avoidable incidents which the prepared for instructing rescue and emergency services Mountain Skills training in with Wayne Jenkins clients in the new have to respond to each year ‘normal’ that has through the development and promotion of a comprehensive followed the end of that initial lockdown. Below is a positive set of safety messages. This is an innovative approach to account of one such interaction. communicating safety to the many people who are exploring the outdoors in Ireland. A few words about my experience Whatever the activity, being AdventureSmart is about considering a few simple things to help your day stay great and training for Mountain Skills to ensure that you return safely and looking forward to your next adventure. Experts from leading safety and sporting By Simon Holmes organisations have developed these messages to provide the I did Mountain Skills 1 and 2 courses with Wayne Jenkins and essential information needed for people to get outdoors, it was a great opportunity to refresh and adapt my confident that they have prepared for a great day. navigation skills (I’m a PADI divemaster) and to learn and People are prompted to ask three questions before they build confidence in the mountains. set off: As an enthusiastic outdoor photographer, I was keen to learn some new skills to help with this, and Wayne’s classes ■ Do I have the right GEAR? and on-the-mountain training were great in that respect. His ■ Do I know what the WEATHER will be like? years of experience in the hills and with mountain rescue are very clear in his training sessions. His down-to-earth ■ Am I confident I have the KNOWLEDGE AND SKILLS for approach also ensures that everyone can follow the syllabus the day? and pick up lots of practical tips along the way. As well as having a great time in the classes and on the A new website, www.adventuresmart.uk, is now linked to mountains, the training courses provided a nice mix of the Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie, learning and socialising to ensure that the whole experience and provides all the information that people need to answer was both educational and enjoyable. these questions. I would highly recommend taking a Mountain Skills course As a new partner organisation, we have joined forces with the with a registered training provider to make sure you have the existing partners to ensure that the AdventureSmart messages appropriate knowledge and skills for your safe return to, or are spread far and wide on the island of Ireland, to try to for your safe first visits to, the hills ■ Photograph: Simon Holmes Photograph: 10 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Photograph: Helen Lawless navigation usingacompass, mapor photography and the basicsof climbing. Learn new skills like landscape walking, scrambling, trail runningor rock the stunning outdoors on your doorstep. mountains nationwide andcelebrate Week of Sport. abilities toin the takepart Sport Mountaineering Ireland Coordinator) By Ania Bakiewicz (Women inSport European Week of Sport:September 23-30 Autumn 2020 Celebrating women inhillwalking, rock climbingand trail running Challenge yourself to hillor trail are inviting women of allages and Join uson the hillsand and European Women In and healthy lifestyle locally. getfor thetaste outdoor the adventure along. Make new ‘outdoorsy’ friendsand do not worry: you are well ablefor it! the weather. rock andwhat gear to use. Learn about the trails. Learn how to move on the technique for footwork whilerunning your localarea. Discover the proper about the environment andheritage in even the stars. Deepen your knowledge Twenty events are runningin twenty Bring your daughter or your mother All activities are at anentry-level, so your localareas. outdoor instructors, the experts from need to travelfar. too locations nationwide, so there isno Eventbrite TICKETS www.mountaineering.ie/EWOS. events beingheldduring the week, visit limited! To findoutmore about the FIND OUT MORE All activities are runby female For free tickets, apply on ■ Irish Mountain Log Places are FREEbut th 11 NEWSL0G

Covid-19 memories to be collected

Trinity College Dublin library is seeking memories from Mountaineering Ireland members What formats are and the Digital Repository of welcome? Ireland. The records would be We welcome stories in any shared between the two format and any length. It bodies and stored in our could be a photograph with a digital repositories, so that little bit of commentary, or a they can be easily used in the recording made on your phone. Ideally, you would let future. us interview you. This would involve a preparatory call or How do I find out more? email to discuss what you The project leader is Dr Jane want to talk about and to give Maxwell, Assistant Librarian, you the terms and conditions, Manuscripts & Archives followed by a virtual interview. Research Collections, Trinity What will happen to my College Library, Dublin, and record? she will be happy to answer This is a joint project between any questions you might care the Library of Trinity College to send to [email protected] ■

Joss Lynam crossword results By Jane Maxwell capture a snapshot of sports (Trinity College Library) people’s lives in Ireland in The winner of our crossword in IML 134 was James McBrearty, of Feeny, 2020. The resulting records will Co Derry, who won an outfit comprising a jacket, short-sleeved t-shirt and Trinity College Library, Dublin, be preserved into the future to convertible pants, a prize worth up to €250, from our crossword sponsor, has been collecting “Covid-19 become available for Basecamp. The solution to the crossword is shown below. Mountaineering Ireland will contact the winner to arrange collection of his prize. memories” from the researchers interested in life in st university’s community since early 21 -century Ireland. 1 2 3 4 5 the lockdown. The library is G R O U S E S K Y E 6 the custodian of the archives What kind of records or O W A I A 7 8 9 of Joss Lynam, a founding stories are welcome? R U N N I N G P U G member of the Irish The memory doesn’t have to Mountaineering Club (IMC) be about the pandemic. It can S C E P L 10 11 12 13 and, in his memory, it is be a story about sport in your E A S T E R P U R E proposed to extend an own life or in the life of invitation to members of someone in your family. It can E I R 14 15 16 17 Mountaineering Ireland to get be about your parish or your T R E K A S C E N D 18 involved in the project. club. You might have a story R F A K W The project has gone about an object – a medal or a 19 20 21 beyond being only about pair of boots. You might even A M I C A I R N Y Covid-related experiences. The like to record your thoughts I N T O E wider purpose now is to about sports generally. 22 23 L I N G D O D D E R

Man’s outfit

Rain Scape Jacket Triple Canyon Convertible Pants Zero Rules Short Sleeve T-shirt 12 Irish Mountain Log MOUNTAIN RESCUE DEALING WITH CALL-OUTS DURING THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC

A mid-year report from Ruth Cunniffe, Public Relations Officer for Mountain Rescue Ireland

ountain Rescue Ireland First and second quarter incidents combined teams responded to 61 incidents in the first quarter (Q1) and 57 incidents in the second quarterM (Q2) of 2020. In comparison to the same quarters in 2019, when Q1 saw 75 incidents and Q2 saw 95, there were approximately one-third fewer call-outs in the first half of 2020. This decrease can be directly related to the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic on activity in the hills and elsewhere. Ireland went into lockdown at the end of March but, even prior to that, people had been requested by the government to restrict their movements, which reduced call-outs in Q1. In Q2, during the lockdown, the number of call-outs was also reduced. As soon as the restrictions were lifted in June, however, and people returned to the hills and mountainous areas again, the number of incidents increased. The full details of that increase will be reported in our third quarter statistics. Apart from the impact on the number of call-outs, the pandemic also affected the way in which mountain rescue teams had to work. Updated guidelines were the restrictions have been lifted, increased steadily through June and July. introduced for teams in the first half of there has been an increase in road DWMRT responded to 25 incidents in 2020, with new personal protective traffic in scenic hotspots, for August alone, in stark contrast to Covid- equipment (PPE) recommended to be example, at entrances to 19’s quiet entrance. used and revised risk assessments to be mountainous areas and national “Operationally, our procedures are also undertaken for each incident. parks. This has caused delay in quite different now. We restrict the The response to call-outs now involves responding to incidents. number of rescuers at an incident, which more preparatory work than ever before: makes the jobs of those who are there Here is a view from one team on the more difficult. Initial contact with a direct impact of Covid-19 on their work: Assessment of the patient now patient is dominated by PPE, • John Kavanagh, Dublin Wicklow includes a Covid-19 questionnaire; temperature readings and taking the Mountain Rescue Team (DWMRT), time to ascertain if they pose a COVID- • Assessment of the responders, now reports: with added Covid-19 questionnaire; 19 risk. Rescuers are now required to wear face masks and eye protection, as Multi-layered PPE to be used by both “DWMRT has been impacted significantly • well as the helmets and gloves that responders and potentially the by Covid-19. During lockdown, it was patient, based on circumstances; noticeably quiet. DWMRT responded to comprise our normal stretcher-carrying PPE. Carrying a stretcher is a difficult Decontamination of all mountain three incidents in the month of April, a • task; doing it on a warm summer’s day, rescue kit used in call-outs – significant decrease from the norm. That wearing full PPE, with restricted numbers enhanced regime of lack of activity proved beneficial, as it of rescuers, is one memory of COVID-19 decontamination cleaning; gave time for the difficult task of sourcing personal protective equipment that will stay with our team members. The enhanced decontamination • (PPE). We also developed Covid-19 “A call-out is not complete now until process can potentially make operating procedures, and trained our all of our team members have sanitised response times longer, if there are team members, during that time. appropriately, our equipment has been multiple incidents in the one day; “Restrictions were eased in late May thoroughly cleaned and dried, and the • Delayed access to incidents –since and, following that, our activity level PPE has been properly disposed of” ■ Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 13 NEWSL0G Celebrate walking! National Walking Day, September 27th, 2020

By Linda Sankey I would encourage everyone (Get Ireland Walking) to take part with their family and friends.” We are calling on people all The Chief Executive of Sport across the country to join our Ireland, John Treacy, National Walking Day on encouraged as many people September 27th, 2020, when as possible to take part in the we will be celebrating walking day: as part of European Week of “Sport Ireland has Sport. conducted research Get Ireland Walking is throughout the period of supported by Healthy Ireland Covid-19 restrictions which and Sport Ireland and hosted shows that an unprecedented by Mountaineering Ireland. number of people are now To find out more about the walking regularly,” he said. day, visit “What is really encouraging into our ‘new normal,’ we can We are asking everyone to walk www.getirelandwalking.ie/ is the number of young people all agree that one of the most in celebration of the power of nationalwalkingday2020. taking part in recreational important tools for all of us to walking and because we can! Welcoming the launch of walking, in particular in the sustain and facilitate living in “Our National Walking Day this event, the Minister of State 15-24 age group where a pandemic has been regular encourages everyone to walk with responsibility for Public participation has jumped walking. We’re asking people within their own community at Health, Wellbeing and the from 51% to 89% during the to explore the #HiddenGems a time and place that suits National Drugs Strategy, Frank restrictions. in their community and them. We are working with the Feighan, TD, said: “National Walking Day is a #WalkyourArea.” network of Local Sports “As a nation, we are all fantastic initiative and I Partnerships to help you walk “Sport Ireland’s ongoing consciously aware of the great encourage everyone, no locally on September 27th. Covid-19 research initially difficulties which our country is matter what your age or Local Sports Partnerships will showed that an additional facing at the moment, due to ability, to get out and be also provide advice on where th 500,000 people were walking the outbreak of the Covid-19 active on September 27 .” to walk in your local area. You pandemic. This prolonged Get Ireland Walking’s in Ireland. The second phase will be able to use Coillte period of national emergency Programme Manager, Jason of the research has shown amenities, Waterways Ireland’s has at times often had a King, said: that the number of adults waterways and blueways, Sport negative impact on our overall “We’re encouraging walking for recreation has Ireland’s outdoor trails, and wellbeing. During this time, everyone in Ireland to increased throughout the national parks across Ireland. walking has been one of the celebrate walking on crisis and is now equivalent to simplest and yet most September 27th! Five months over 3.1 million regular walkers. How to participate beneficial exercises that To find out how to participate, thankfully has remained simply visit available to us. Sometimes in www.getirelandwalking.ie/ life it’s the simplest things that nationalwalkingday2020. make the biggest difference. “Our research has shown Celebrate and share that people have been deriving Share a photo or video of your great benefit from walking walk with us on social media. during this time. As a result, I Tag @GetIreWalking on am encouraging people of all Facebook, Twitter and ages and fitness levels to Instagram, your Local Sports continue with the great strides Partnership, and don’t forget to they’ve been making towards a use the hashtags #BeActive, healthier Ireland. I want to #NWD2020, #WalkYourTown, thank Get Ireland Walking for #WalkYourArea and organising this great event and #HiddenGems ■ Photograph: Get Ireland Walking Ireland Get Photograph: 14 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Images: Carlow Sports Partnership Be Active and Take Notice! Autumn 2020 ● ● ● ● ● Wellbeing are: wellbeing.FiveWays The to our mental healthand better maintain andimprove we canall take eachday to to Wellbeing Day 2020, promotes Five Ways Walking inNational Walking of the partners of Get Ireland restrictions.during the jumped from 51% to 89% age group, participation the age of 35. In the 15 to 24 walking amongst those under strong uptake inrecreational over 3.1 millionregular walkers. crisis andisnow equivalent to increasedhas throughout the adults walking for recreation shown thatnumberof the phase of the research has were walking. The second additional 500,000 people initially that anamazing Covid-19 research showed us panacea for all. to get outandwalk hasbeena walk locally. The simpleability self-isolating was to beable to request from those whowere outside theirhomes. were even unable to walk Those whowere self-isolating distancing recommendations. with the necessary social- in linewith the need to comply during the Covid-19 pandemic, Walking haschanged for people National Walking Day 2020provides anopportunity for many to improve their mental health

Mental HealthIreland, The report alsoshows a Sport Ireland’s ongoing Indeed,commonest the Give Keep learning Take notice Be active Connect as simpleactions one notice. Walking Day. and bemindfulonNational participants towalk takea Ways: Beactive is promoting two of the Five wellbeing andlower rates of with agreater senseof physical activity isassociated sense of wellbeing. Regular health and to improve our help maintain better mental Walking hasbeenshown to physical andmental wellbeing. Being active isgood for our contribute to our communities. productively andfruitfully, and stresses of life, work abilities, copewith the normal when we canrealise our own wellbeing. Itisexperienced contributes to our overall to copewithdaily life and Positive mental healthhelps us Why walking? National Walking Day 2020 We are asking and Take rise to achallenge. self-control and the ability to sense of greater self-esteem, exercise canbringabouta also evidence to suggest that positive moodchange. There is brains, whichcanresult ina help change chemicalsinour Physical activity ingeneral can depression andanxiety. maintain anequilibriuminour regularly canhelpus to the world around us. Walking life withoutstopping to notice It iseasy to rush through daily Take notice RESTRICTIONS. REGULARLY AS A RESULT OF COVID-19 AN ADDITIONAL and delivered by Mountaineering Ireland. supported by Healthy Ireland andhosted Walking Officer withGet Ireland Walking. [email protected]. (01) 6251109 www.getirelandwalking.ie, Ireland Walking,website visitthe FIND OUT MORE: AUTHOR: 500,000 is aninitiative of SportIreland, Linda Sankey or emailLinda Sankey at mechanisms. us to develop better coping anxiety inourselves andhelps notice signsof stress or also helpsus to more easily times. Awareness of feelings during good, andnot sogood, able to look after ourselves are very important inbeing happy, sad, angry or excited knowing what makes us one thing at a time. help us to focus our mindson things inlife. This canalso to appreciate the simpler around us. Itcanalsohelpus and inrelation to the world own thoughts andfeelings awareness andmindfully remember to walk withself- time you go walking, Walking Day, ● ● ● ● ●

Self-awareness and When you walk onNational Use your different senses. feeling of plants andgrass. focus oncolours and the Notice nature around you: around you. sounds Notice the your body. Notice your breath in never noticed before. notice one thing you have Take amindfulwalk and To findoutmore about Get Irish Mountain Log ARE WALKING is Communications or indeed any contact uson Get Ireland ■ 15 NEWSL0G

Mountaineering Ireland Lynam Lecture 2020

This year’s Lynam Lecture will be virtual

Mountaineering Ireland is delighted to Log for more than twenty years. Joss announce that, despite the uncertainties continued as the Literary Editor of the related to the Covid-19 pandemic, plans magazine up to the time of his death. are afoot for the 2020 Mountaineering Since it was inaugurated in 2011, the Ireland Lynam Lecture to go ahead, Lynam Lecture has been delivered by albeit in a virtual format. The date has leading national and international not been settled yet, but the planning is mountaineers: 2011, Harish Kapadia; in an advanced stage, with a leading Irish 2012, Dawson Stelfox; 2013, Stephen mountaineer the likely recipient of this Venables; 2014, Clare Sheridan; 2015, Ines year’s Lynam Medal (pictured). Papert; 2016, Paul Swail and John Joss Lynam, who was one of Ireland’s McCune; 2017, Frank Nugent; 2018, best-known mountaineers, passed away Paddy O’Leary; and most recently, in in 2011. The Mountaineering Ireland 2019, by Sir Chris Bonington. All of these Lynam Lecture was inaugurated later mountaineers in Ireland. During his have been outstanding lectures that that year in recognition of the enormous lifetime, Joss also initiated any number have reflected on the development of contribution he had made to the of developments in all aspects of our various aspects of our sport and how it development of our sport on the island sport and he was an inspiration to might progress in coming years. of Ireland. several generations of Irish Further information about the Joss’ own achievements in hillwalking, mountaineers. forthcoming virtual Mountaineering climbing and mountaineering over some Joss was known to many Irish and Ireland Lynam Lecture will be put on the sixty years, including his participation in international walking enthusiasts for his website, www.mountaineering.ie, in the many expeditions to the Greater Ranges, many Irish hillwalking guidebooks. He ezine, and on other social media was also the editor of the Irish Mountain ■ Photograph: Patrick O’Sullivan Patrick Photograph: made him one of the best-known platforms in the next month or so

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Corraun Hill (524m) on the Corraun peninsula, Achill, Co Mayo. THE ARDERINS

What are the Arderins? And what is their significance? A special report by the Arderins Subcommittee (members of Mountaineering Ireland’s Hillwalking Committee and MountainViews)

ountaineering such mountains scattered The outcome is the Arderins remoter mountain areas, for Ireland and the around Ireland, with only six list with 406 peaks of 500m. example in Connemara or Mhillwalkers’ counties not having at least Like the Munros, the idea is north-west Donegal? A bit of website one. The name Arderins was that these peaks should planning can change routes MountainViews.ie are jointly chosen as it is the name of a provide a lifetime personal or to ensure reaching all of the promoting the Arderins, a list mountain in the middle of club challenge. local Arderins. Nothing worse of the 500m mountains on Ireland, whose name origin There are a variety of than leaving that one place the island of Ireland, as a means ‘the height of Ireland.’ strategies for attempting a you will have to make a lifetime challenge for The list was defined by list like the Arderins. For special trip to get to later! hillwalkers. (The official MountainViews in 2009 to many, it can start with Is the total of 406 summits announcement of this news develop the earlier Vandeleur- visiting local summits and still a bit daunting? Well, it is on page 7 of this issue.) Lynam list of mountains as a finishing all in the nearest depends on how you look at So, how much do you know lifetime challenge spread to mountain area, such as the it. We have already about these mountains, more mountain areas. The Mournes, the mentioned intermediate which are located all over the greater prominence ‘Dublin/Wicklows’ or the challenges like the Highest island of Ireland? Do you requirement of 30m removes Knockmealdowns, and then Hundred, which are all know how many you may some places from the list moving onto another area. worthwhile in their own right have climbed? No? Well, which don’t really look like For others, it is to walk your and which can act as that’s a good reason to have separate mountains. way up a shorter list such as stepping stones, if you want some form of official list of Another driver for the the Highest Hundred, as to go further. Then again, the these mountains, so you can development of this list was featured in the recently Arderins are deliberately see your progress. to have a list of Irish published, splendid Irish meant as a lifetime challenge Enter the Arderins list! The mountains approximately Peaks book from like the Munros. mountains included on the similar in difficulty to Mountaineering Ireland. All of In 2014, a MountainViews list are all 500 metres or more Scotland’s Munro list, which these are Arderins and, if you member and strong walker, in height and have a has 282 peaks based on a are visiting them, you quickly Simon Byrne, visited all the prominence or drop of 30 minimum height of 3,000ft learn that a bit of route- Arderins (plus a few more). He metres. In other words, you (914m). Ireland has around tweaking will also get you to did it in 101 day-trips (not have to go down at least 30 fourteen summits of this neighbouring Arderins not on consecutively). Spread over, metres from one mountain in height and so, to make a the Highest Hundred list. say, twenty-five years (1,303 order to go up the nearest comparable list, more peaks Perhaps you or your club weeks) and allowing that not higher summit. There are 406 of a lower height are needed. already visit some of the everyone walks quite the way Photograph: Declan Murphy Photograph: 18 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Awe-inspiring north face of Slievenashaska South Top (Sliabh na Seasca, Mullach Theas) (566m) in the Dunkerron Mountains, Co Kerry

he did, that means is localised to a few, small, range of places you need to and groups, which is always something like five well- well-known areas. With the visit and places you may desirable and relieves the chosen routes a year. (For recent reduction in use of base yourself in. It’s a win-win pressure on our overworked route ideas you can view the hills during the lockdown, situation for both hikers and mountain rescue teams. every one of Simon Byrne’s it has been possible to see accommodation suppliers, as Developing these skills is also trips recorded as a track at evidence of improvement in well as the environment. one of the aims of hiking MountainViews.ie: he is paths and tracks, and the re- clubs, so the benefits are known as simoburn and all establishment of growth, Try the Arderins there for all – clubs, individual his tracks are prefaced with which is unparallelled in members or just the casual ‘PMG.’) recent times. Maybe there is for a lifetime walker. Environmentally, spreading an upside to Covid-19 from challenge! As with all hillwalking, follow hillwalking over a greater the point of view of nature! both commonsense and the number of areas will relieve A specific benefit of the Lists such as the Arderins rules for access, environment the pressure on the higher Arderins on an island like provide a framework for and land management. honey-pots, as a Ireland is that their extensive discussion of areas to select, Specifically for the Arderins, disproportionate amount of spread to forty-three routes, access issues and many have multiple ways up hillwalking activity in Ireland mountain areas widens the culture. As you or your club and choosing the less well- seeks to visit mountains in an known can be more optimum ‘summiteering’ interesting and less likely to fashion, you will find that cause path erosion. your navigational skills and The Arderins Subcommittee knowledge of compass and is made up of members of GPS work will improve to the Mountaineering Ireland’s betterment of both self and Hillwalking Committee – club. Funnily enough, once Margaret Collins, Grainne you have visited several McLaughlin, Declan Murphy, places in a mountain area, Louise Nolan and Ruth getting to the remainder Whelan – and members of efficiently can become an MountainViews – David interesting route challenge, Owens, Simon Stewart and which has been likened to Peter Walker. putting pieces in a jigsaw. It You can view the list by all fosters independence and searching for ‘Arderins list’ on self-reliance in individuals Keadeen (653m), an Arderin and Vandeleur-Lynam in the Wicklow Mountains the websites ■ Photographs: Simon Stewart Photographs: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 19 MOUNT

ANCIENT MONARCH

Don Baldwin goes for a ramble on

all and sombre, like an ancient monarch Above: Smooth, you towards the Corrabut Gap (Carroll’s Crossroads). surveying his fertile kingdom, Mount tarmacadammed This scenic route will provide you with excellent views Leinster (Stua Laighean) has long looked ascent to the of the well-tended countryside and give you a real out upon the rich land of south-east summit of Mount taste of the Ancient East. TIreland, watching impassively as each new Leinster. After eight undulating kilometres you will arrive at wave of settlers came to claim this Carroll’s Crossroads. Turn left there onto a well verdant land, before they, too, were swept away by Below: Cairn of elevated mountain road, which forms part of The the passage of time. an unknown king Leinster Way. Another three kilometres will then take This is a lush land of gentle hills and generous on the summit, you to your final destination, the spacious Nine valleys, a territory steeped in ancient history. Blessed complete with Stones car park (GR 817 546, OSI Discovery Series by temperate climes, it is a land worth having, a place latter-day trig Sheet 68), where you can enjoy the stunning worth fighting for, and many powerful kings have vied point. landscape which stretches out below, a mere fifteen- for ownership of this coveted prize, all under the minute drive from . steady gaze of Stua Laighean, the ‘Arch of Leinster.’ The origin of the Nine Stones is uncertain; one Wexford and Carlow’s highest mountain can easily legend connects the monument to nine shepherds be approached from several suitable locations. Bunclody is perhaps one of the nearest, situated eleven kilometres north-east of the mountain. If you take a third-class road off the N80, heading west out of Bunclody and marked ‘Mount Leinster,’ it will take

➤ Don Baldwin started mountaineering with the Irish Permanent Defence Forces, as a member of the 27th Battalion in Dundalk, Co Louth, training in the Cooley and Wicklow Mountains. He also served with the 46th IRISHBATT in the mountains of South Lebanon. Since then, he has completed several mountaineering courses in Tollymore National Outdoor Centre, including the WGL. Don is also an avid scuba- diver, writer and Advanced Adventure Sport Instructor. Photographs: Don Baldwin Photographs: 20 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 who were killed on the mountain during a storm. Above View of sure is nice to get the odd one. Smooth road or Whatever their true purpose actually was, only these the Blackstairs rugged trail, for me, ‘going to the mountains is going nine stone sentinels can truly say, as they continue to Mountains from home,’ as John Muir wrote. It’s a matter of head down quietly guard their secret by the valley side of the the summit of and work those legs on this section as labouring road, a little further on from the actual car park. Mount Leinster. lungs do their best to keep up. The incline is fairly Beside the car park is a substantial metal gate, unrelenting but, with sumptuous scenery to distract usually closed, blocking off access to the tarmac you, the hour to the summit passes in no time at all. road which leads up to the large telecommunications The mast and compound fairly dominate the mast clearly visible in the distance. Do not be summit. Although the incongruous structures look tempted to drive up the narrow road, if the gate is completely out of place in their natural surroundings, open: public access is on foot only. Walkers can use the mast does appear to be an impressive piece of the ample space between the boulders to the right of engineering. ➤ the gate. A ‘No dogs’ sign often seems Map: Cóilín MacLochlainn to be ignored by dog owners, who seem unaware that N80 lurking just beneath the fur of Corrabut Gap every domestic dog is the wild Carroll’s Crossroads blood of its not too distant ancestor, the wolf. In fact, the last BUNCLODY authenticated case of a wolf Nine Stones being killed in Ireland was on car park Mount Leinster in 1786, by P John Watson from R746 Black Banks Ballydarton, near Fennagh in . The Watson family were landlords who had founded the Tullow Hunt. ▲ Mt Leinster Watson, a sheep farmer who was Master of the Hunt, was so enraged by the killing of his sheep by a lone wolf, which had its den on Mount Leinster, that he tracked the animal

down with a pack of WEXFORD

wolfhounds and brutally CARLOW dispatched the sorry creature, thus ending Ireland’s long association with the ‘Son of the Countryside’ (Mac Tíre, the MOUNT LEINSTER Irish for wolf). 5 km It wouldn’t do to tarmac R702 Kiltealy every mountain road, but it Photograph: Don Baldwin Photograph: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 21 MOUNT LEINSTER

The summit is surmounted by a cairn and a trig Above: Crest of twenty-five children died in terror after the Dublin point that sit off to the north of the compound in the the Black Banks. Vikings tried to smoke them out during a slave raid in shadow of the mast. The cairn itself is tumbled down 928 AD. and neglected now, its owner a Leinster king who fell Below: Descent Towards the south, beyond the sleek outline of the in battle at the foot of the mountain, his name long from the Black (Na Staighrí Dubha) stands forgotten. Banks. Hook Lighthouse, the oldest operational lighthouse in The adjacent compound does occupy a large the world. It guides mariners past the perilous Hook section of the mountain top, so you do have to do a peninsula and into the sheltered waters of Waterford bit of a ‘shimmy’ around it to fully appreciate the Harbour. Yet long before the old lighthouse stood overall view, but it is well worth the effort. guard, back in the dawn of time, Cesair, a Straddling the Wexford/Carlow border at a lofty granddaughter of Noah, led a small group of fifty 795m, and strategically overlooking Ireland’s south- women to this deserted inlet, along with her father eastern approaches, Mount Leinster has witnessed Bith and her husband Fintan. Bith’s heather-draped many seminal moments in Irish history. If mountains barrow lies on the bleak summit of Slieve Beagh in could talk, what a tale this one could tell. Off to the County Monaghan, the cairn all that now remains to north-east lie the tentative foothills of the Wicklow mark the brief passing of these sorry exiles. Mountains, with the Wicklow massif emerging Of course, the Hook peninsula also staged a more beyond. To the north-west in Leighlinbridge, County ominous landing, that of the Anglo-Normans who Carlow, buried beneath layers of history, lies made their first military landfall on the small headland Dinnrighe, the ancient royal seat of Leinster, nestled of Baginbun in 1170; hence that sorry lament: by the sleepy banks of the River Barrow. Dinnrighe had been founded by Sláinge, son of Parthelón, leader of the ancient Parthelonians. Sláinge’s cairn still rests on Slieve , previously named Sliabh Sláinge before the occupant in the adjacent cairn, Saint Dónairt, a disciple of Saint Patrick’s, later went on to lend his name to ’s highest mountain. To the west, near Ballyfoyle in County Kilkenny, and hidden underground is the old Celtic otherworld, the ‘Cave of Alders.’ It is better known today as the infamous Dunmore Cave, where nineteen women and Photographs: Don Baldwin Photographs: 22 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 “At the creek of Baginbun, Ireland was lost and won.”

The Norman leader Strongbow later savagely stormed Waterford, where he married Aoife, the daughter of the expelled Leinster king who had enlisted him, Dermot MacMurrough. Finally, off to the east is the historic town of Ferns, the last resting place of Dermot MacMurrough, the broken cross above his grave a symbol of the shattered land he left in his wake. In a desperate bid to regain his Leinster kingdom, ‘Dermot of the Foreigners’ had offered Strongbow his daughter and succession to his provincial throne, and by extension to King Henry II, who duly pressed his claim. The rest, as they say, is history, albeit a very sad and bloody one. Having consumed the panoramic views, retrace your Above: Final peeking over the nearby hill, don’t seem all that far steps back down the mountain road for one kilometre stretch: from the away. Have a care along this section of road, as some until you reach a rutted ‘wagon track’ (GR 824 534) boulders back to motorists barrel past, oblivious to the effect their striking out cross-country towards the north, gently Nine Stones car wake might have on a walker perched precariously on ascending to an area dubiously called the Black Banks. park. the edge of a narrow mountain road! Forests guide you on either side across a rolling ‘prairie’ This is a wonderful, moderate, five-hour hike, with a of pale ‘hungry grass,’ supporting precious little wildlife, Below: ‘Son of nice mixture of terrain and track underfoot. The until you finally reach the summit of a small knoll at the Countryside:’ scenery is spectacular in every direction and there 644m. There is a possible escape route here to your a European grey certainly is an air of the ancient east about this place. left, descending back towards the access road. If that wolf, the species That being said, it is hard not to feel a keen sense of is not for you, press on north along the fence on your that existed in loss for our native wolf, here where this harried right until you clear the knoll proper, then you will find Ireland until the creature met its final harrowing end. Indeed, you can a rugged trail descending tight along the forest fence. late 18th century almost discern an air of abhorrence hanging heavy The Black Banks is aptly named, as this steep and was last seen upon these hushed slopes, that Mount Leinster should fractured path is the stark opposite of the smooth on Mount forever be remembered as the notorious site of that tarmac ascent enjoyed earlier. It is certainly an Leinster. last unholy slaughter. occasion which requires you to take the rough with Back at the car park, I pause to admire a kestrel the smooth! This ragged track is a dangerous hovering above the patchwork of fields below, with its combination of loose stone, wet bedrock, greasy grass latticework of hedgerows. I take comfort that nature and boggy pools. So, gaiters on and heads up! finds a way to adapt, to survive. Perhaps someday we Vocal ravens make for pleasant companions along might also find a suitable space for the wolf, just as we this section of the walk, as they proclaim their have done for the golden eagle, sea eagle and red kite. ownership of the Scots pine forest beyond the fence. Then, our wild brother might reclaim his rightful place In Scotland, the Scots pine is known as Clársach nan as the iconic Mac Tíre, ‘Son of the Countryside’ ■ craobh, or ‘The Harp of the Trees,’ on account of the musical sound that the wind makes through its long, needle-like leaves. That soothing sigh is quite audible here as you pick your way adroitly down this tricky little hill. At the foot of the hill the trail turns abruptly left and gradually descends towards two large boulders, situated near the side of the road that you drove up earlier (GR 831 555). Here, I fit on my high-viz jacket and pause for a while to say farewell to my wild surrounds, a little reluctant to rejoin the busy world. To quote Henry David Thoreau: “I find it wholesome to be alone the greater part of the time” for “I never found the companion that was so companionable as solitude.” Finishing your walk with a gentle ascent is hardly ideal, but that’s the way of it here. In consolation, the spruce trees at the car park, Photographs: Don Baldwin (final stretch), Malene Thyssen (wolf) Thyssen Malene stretch), Don Baldwin (final Photographs: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 23 PHOTOGRAPHY

SIX FAVOURITES

Richard Creagh discusses some of the mountain landscape images he has captured

e have all been captivated by Above: ‘Brandon However, anybody who has planned the stunning scenes we have Peak.’ Brandon, photography in the hills will know how rare it is seen while out walking and Co Kerry. for all the elements to line up as you want them climbing on Irish hills and to. While we can have control over the precise crags. The chance to be composition of a photograph, there is only Wpresent for those moments is educated guesswork to try to bring ourselves to a big part of the reason many of us head out, these places at the right time, when the light and especially so for those of us who like to and weather conditions will add the much bring some sense of them home as needed magic that can transform a scene. Luck photographs. plays such a big part in taking photographs, especially as landscape photographers tend to find blue skies boring and cloudy days, especially in the mountains, are so much more ➤ Richard Creagh grew up in unpredictable. Cork but now lives in west It is best to be flexible and not have tunnel Kerry, where he splits his time between the sea and the hills. vision for a particular shot, lest you end up You can see more of his im- blinded to sights you didn’t plan for. However, ages on his website, when the plans come good, it is very satisfying www.richardcreagh.com. indeed. The shots that follow are some of my preferred photos from my walking and climbing life, a mix of planned and spontaneous scenes from great days out in beautiful places. Photographs: Richard Creagh Richard Photographs: 24 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 ■ Brandon Peak Above: ‘Sea of hardly believe it when a gap seemed to be I have a big framed print of this image above my Sandstone.’ opening up on the horizon and no more cloud office desk to remind me of an enchanted Richard Cussen was drifting in to block it. I turned back to the on the Bishop’s afternoon. It is a rare case of a specific scene view towards Brandon Peak and, shortly Move at Seven from my mind’s eye turning out more or less afterwards, a pale pink glow lit the summit Heads, Co Cork. exactly as I hoped it would. A few weeks before slopes and spread down along the ridge to I made this image, I was up there before dawn. where I stood, elated. I crossed the ridge to Brandon Peak, but I It is a simple photo, really; there is no technical couldn’t find any decent compositions there. I camera work involved, no filter and no use of should have stayed put on An Géarán; from there slow shutter to render some sense of fantasy or the ridge looks more defined and I knew that at mystery. It’s just a lucky combination of either end of the day the low sun would split it variables that I happened to be there for. into a fine light-and-shadow line rising to Brandon Peak’s shapely summit. A dark sky would ■ Sea of Sandstone complement the low warm light, or maybe a In this photograph, Richard Cussen is examining cloud inversion could add some magic. A fresh the way upwards on The Bishop’s Move at the fall of snow would be the icing on the cake, but Seven Heads in West Cork. This is a fairly already I was getting carried away with a scene obscure sandstone crag, too brittle and too so rare that, even if it did happen, the chances dependent on low tides and calm seas to ever were slim that I’d find myself there at the time. get very popular. The setting is scenic and the Less than a month later, I was slowly slogging upwards through heavy hail showers towards an lines are often quite strong, particularly here on invisible summit. My friend carried on to Brandon the main wall. For this image I scrambled out to Peak but I stayed put this time, settling myself a barnacled reef to get a front-on view of the next to an untrodden snowdrift, the contours of cliff and its pleasing geometric geology. Even which were barely visible in the flat light. The Richard’s rope and limbs seemed to match the cloud slowly cleared and bright beams of pristine straight lines of the crag’s cracks, a nice example light began to spread out over west Kerry, fighting of the climber being shaped by the contours of with the wind-bent sails of huge hail showers the cliff. Such subtle adaptations always seem blown in from the sea. It was among the most necessary to me, if we hope to get through mesmerising light shows I’d ever seen. I could these steep places. ➤ Photographs: Richard Creagh Richard Photographs: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 25 ■ Winter Still Above: ‘Winter Will is scrambling over are clear indicators of the A self-portrait from a stunning day in the Brandon Still.’ Self-portrait momentous forces that shaped the Reeks into their range. The skyline here is the Faha Ridge, reflected at Faha Ridge in present state over unimaginable spans of time, and in one of the paternoster lakes beneath the summit the Brandon continue to do so at a speed too slow for us to see. of . Like most of my preferred range, Co Kerry. The mountains also command a wide range of images, there is nothing fancy happening here from Below: ‘Eastern observation in the present tense; from the a technical point of view. I’m not particularly Reeks Ridge.’ Will attention to their smaller ripples and edges required interested in injecting drama into scenes either with Dowling in the to navigate safely over their steeper sides, to the the camera or with editing software afterwards. I McGillycuddy huge, broader views that stop us in our tracks, prefer to find scenes that are inspiring enough as Reeks, Co Kerry. mountains can keep us rooted in the here and now they are and just try to present them truthfully. The rarity of days like this in such beautiful surroundings is enough to make them special. There was nothing to be added that wasn’t already there; sights like this don’t need embellishing. ■ Eastern Reeks Ridge My friend Will Dowling moving west to east along the Reeks. I like this photo because it reminds me of all the reasons why I find being in the mountains so enjoyable. The simple hugeness of hills impresses us all; that feeling of being small and insignificant can be strangely liberating, freeing us from the often overwhelming worlds we occupy in our minds into spaces where trivial preoccupations are crushed under the weight of space and time the mountains occupy. Those huge lengths of time are as evident in this image as the size of the hills is; the bands of buckled rock that Photographs: Richard Creagh Richard Photographs: 26 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 at every scale of their details. These wider Above: ‘Mountain ■ Dream Morning perspectives help me to sort through what is and Wall.’ On the Looking towards Brandon Peak at sunrise in is not so important in life, and I see them all in this south-east slopes midwinter. It is all contrasts; the hard, immobile photo now that I have been tasked with writing of Brandon Peak. edges of the hills all in shadow versus the soft and about what it is I like about certain images that sunlit edges of clouds drifting past, changing the come to mind as favourites. Below: ‘Dream scene by the second. Cloud inversions are hard to This image reminds me of the pure pleasure of Morning.’ Looking beat for that feeling of being transported to another time spent in the hills with good friends, moving towards Brandon world. This was one of the better ones I have been freely over exciting, exposed terrain, feeling fit and Peak at sunrise. lucky enough to see ■ free to navigate the world whichever way you want, something that seems harder to do in the lowlands. ■ Mountain Wall Steep streams in spate on the south-east slopes of Brandon Peak. I made this image early one morning after a night of heavy rain in August. Most of these streams are thin trickles of water much of the time, barely visible across the four kilometres this view is seen from. Having noticed them fill up after previous downpours, I planned to come back when early sun might quickly precede heavy rain. The clouds drifting by on this particular morning brought welcome contrast to the warm, low sunlight, adding dramatic lighting to a dramatic landscape, made briefly more alive by all that rushing whitewater. The scale of the scene can be hard to make out at first, but, if you look closely, you can see fence posts along the rim of the corrie. The falls on the left are about 200m high, from where they steepen to where they spill into the small lake hidden there, Loch an Mhúnáin. Photographs: Richard Creagh Richard Photographs: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 27 Crossword BASECAMPCrossword Competition Win a great prize from Basecamp if your correct completed entry is the first drawn from the hat!

1 2 3 4 5 Clues Across 6 Style of rock climbing pursued by 3 Down (4). 6 7 7 A person that leads club trips, for example (6). 8 Was present prior to, or preceded (3-7). 9 Not up, but county in Northern Ireland (4). 12 Fabled hill overlooking Sligo town, reputedly where Queen Maeve was buried (10). 8 15 To walk leisurely, ramble (6). 16 River flowing through Enniskillen to Ballyshannon (4). Clues Down 9 10 11 1 A journey, perhaps to stumble (4). 2 Longest river in Great Britain (6). 3 Daring American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big walls (4,7).

LOCHLAINN 12 13 14 4 Glen below , also peat structures found on mountain tops (4). 5 Village in Connemara, or alcove (6). CÓILÍN M ac

by 10 Elaborately or sumptuously adorned (6). 11 Mount Ararat is highest mountain in which country? (6). 15 16 13 This mount is the highest in New Zealand (4). compiled 14 Largest river in Tuscany (4). CROSSWORD CROSSWORD

WIN a Microlight Alpine jacket worth €229.95

Microlight Alpine Jacket (Men’s) Microlight Alpine Jacket (Women’s) How to enter Complete this crossword correctly and be in with a chance to win a prize worth €229.95 from Basecamp Outdoor Store, Jervis Street, Dublin 1. Cut out this page or photocopy it and send your completed entry to The Editor, Irish Mountain Log, Mountaineering Ireland, Irish Sport HQ, National Sports Campus, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, to arrive not later than Friday, November 8th 2020. Don’t forget to include with your entry your full name, address, membership number, telephone number and email address. Entries can also be emailed to [email protected]. The winner will be announced in the Winter 2020 issue of the Irish Mountain Log. Competition prize Basecamp Outdoor Store, Dublin Website: www.basecamp.ie Basecamp’s generous prize is a men’s or women’s Microlight Alpine jacket worth €229.95. 28 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 ANNUAL REVIEW 2019

Contents

CEO’s Address 2

Supporting and Developing Hillwalking 4

Supporting and Developing Climbing 6

Training and Skills Development 8

Improving Access and Protecting the Mountain Environment 10

Club Development Programme Northern Ireland 12

Get Climbing Initiative 12

Get Ireland Walking Initiative 13

www.mountaineering.ie Mountaineering Ireland Annual Review 2019

Last year was an extremely busy and enjoyable one for Mountaineering Ireland, with many successes and many positive developments coming to fruition. As we continue the journey of delivering on our current Strategic Plan’s goals, which are all aimed at supporting our membership of hillwalkers and climbers and increasing our service capacity, we have seen some great progress in that regard. In addition, as we expand our reach to attract new members, 2019 has seen us continue to develop our governance and best practice structures, all supported by the Board of Mountaineering Ireland. We have also made progress in the important areas of child protection and safeguarding, and in improving our capacity to communicate effectively with our members.

One remarkable achievement in 2019 events and, in 2019, attracted around was the formation of a Hillwalking 350 people. As always, it was hosted by Committee in early March. Chaired by the wonderful courtesy of the McBride Grainne McLaughlin, they hit the ground family, who continue to support the running. That also coincided with the development of climbing at these appointment of Ruth Whelan to her new amazing cliffs. The Climbfest in Donegal role as Hillwalking Development Officer. and the Burren Climbing Meet were also well attended and had about eighty Our membership continues to grow and participants each. Rob Hunter took on 2019 saw ten new clubs affiliated, the role of Head Coach from Terry bringing the overall membership to O’Connor for the Youth Climbing Team. 14,020 as of October 31st, which included 191 clubs and 1,770 individual In 2019, there were also increased members. The annual increase in pressures and challenges faced by membership that has occurred since climbing walls, with increasing insurance 2017 has us on track to increase our premiums. Great credit must go to the membership by 25% by 2021, as per the Climbing Committee and Damien goal in our Strategic Plan. O’Sullivan, Climbing Officer, who have continued to work closely with the The 2019 annual programme of activities sector, providing support and ensuring There were many for our members included an extremely high standards are maintained through “ well attended Women With Altitude close work with wall owners, insurance successes for event. With over ninety participants, it companies and the Association of British was one of the largest such events that Climbing Walls. Mountaineering Ireland we have organised. The Autumn Gathering, hosted by Kilmacthomas Our Access and Conservation in 2019 and much Walking Club in Dungarvan, Co Committee and the Access and Waterford, was also a huge success. Conservation Officer, Helen Lawless, progress was made on Our annual Club Support Meetings have continued to work diligently to were held in the four provinces, with support access and promote responsible our Strategic Plan’s representatives from more than use of our upland areas. There was a forty-five clubs in attendance. positive development also, with a new goals. Our membership chairperson coming into Comhairle na Another highlight of the year was the Tuaithe in June and a new mandate for continued to grow, Mountaineering Ireland Lynam Lecture, the body. which was delivered by Sir Chris reaching over 14,000, Bonington (pictured opposite) to a In 2019, we focused a lot of energy captivated audience of more than four towards new opportunities in locations with 191 member hundred members, making it the first like the estate and building clubs. ever Lynam Lecture to be sold out. relationships with the new owner, and in ” In the spring of 2019, Alan and Margaret Tees commenced the work of putting together Mountaineering Ireland’s Irish Peaks book, supported by Helen Lawless and Zest Creative. This project took all of their time and energy, right through to completion. It is truly a magnificent piece of work and I am pleased to say Mountaineering Ireland gratefully that it is available to buy now from our acknowledges the funding that it receives from website. Sport Ireland, its Women in Sport programme and the Dormant Accounts Funding, and from The three annual Climbing Meets, Sport Northern Ireland, and from Healthy supported by Mountaineering Ireland, Ireland for the Get Ireland Walking programme. continue to grow in size. The Climbing Meet is one of our biggest 30 promoting the principles of Helping the Natasza Berlowska moved on from her Hills in popular locations, where role in the Get Climbing initiative, Ruth trampling and path erosion are ever Whelan moved into the Hillwalking more evident, like , , Development Officer role and Laura and . Griffin moved into the Training and Membership Support Administrator role. An exciting and welcome initiative saw At the end of 2019, Linda Sankey joined the establishment of an Access and the staffing team in the role of Conservation Network with over one Communications and Administration hundred members, allowing them to Officer with Get Ireland Walking. I would feed into Mountaineering Ireland’s policy like to thank Natasza for her contribution development, submissions and specific to the Get Climbing programme and wish projects. Ruth, Laura, and Linda all the best in their new roles. In the past year, we have also seen significant work completed by the During 2019, we also saw some Mountain Training Board Ireland (MTBI), movement in the Board, with Irene supported by the Training Officer, Jane Sorohan and Simon Walsh stepping Carney, and by Laura Griffin, the Training down to focus on work commitments, and Membership Support Administrator. and Geoff Thomas coming in as the new Chairperson of the Climbing Committee. Also in 2019, we saw the completion of I would like to thank both Irene and the MTUKI Climbing Awards Review, the Simon for their support and revision of the climbing awards, and the contributions to Mountaineering Ireland, launch of the new Rock Skills Personal and I welcome Geoff in his roles as Board Proficiency Scheme, the Indoor Climbing member and Chairperson of the Climbing Assistant award and the Rock Climbing Committee. Development Instructor qualification. I want to pay a special thanks to Jason Almost seventy members enjoyed some King for his commitment and dedication wonderful Alpine experiences in the to Get Ireland Walking during 2019. He Mont Blanc massif, where the 2019 carried the responsibility for the Summer Meet was located. It was programme nearly singlehandedly during extremely positive to see four Irish the year. I must also thank Siobhan Mountain Guides work on the Meet. The Quinn, our Administration Officer, for her Meet focused on having a strong youth enormous contribution as the first point attendance, resulting in 44% of the of contact in our office, for her support overall numbers attending being youths. to our clubs and members, and for 2019 also saw the continued offering her expertise in supporting my developments of partnerships with priorities. Mountains for the Mind, Adventure The progress made by Smart and the Irish Girl Guides. I also want to acknowledge the massive “ contribution made to Mountaineering the newly established Across Northern Ireland, our Club Ireland by the Finance, Audit and Risk Development Programme, delivered by Committee, chaired by Imelda Buckley, Hillwalking Committee and Kevin Kilroy, the Youth Development which all goes on in the background, Officer for Northern Ireland, has mostly unnoticed, and the excellent work by Mountain Training Board continued to provide support and delivered by IFT Financial Management in direction in the development of both providing our accountancy requirements. Ireland in 2019 was hillwalking and climbing clubs there, with Our National Children’s Officer, Gerry a keen focus on involving young people. Gorman, also worked away diligently impressive. Our Get Climbing Programme offered behind the scenes and must be ” nearly 1,000 climbing and hillwalking acknowledged for his essential opportunities to young people during contribution. Thank you all very much. 2019, all under the watchful supervision of Natasza Berlowska. In conclusion, I would like to record my sincere gratitude to all our steadfast During 2019, we continued to monitor volunteers, our subcommittees and progress as set out in our Strategic Plan. working groups, our dedicated staff We continued to develop and nurture key team, all our Directors, the Chairperson relationships with our core funders in of the Board Paul Barron and our Sport Ireland, Department of Health, President Paul Kellagher, who contribute Healthy Ireland and Sport NI. These to and together deliver an effort far funding streams are channelled towards greater than the sum of its many parts. helping us to achieve our strategic goals It is a pleasure to serve and lead you, and and developing improved collaborations thank you all for your continued support. with our partners to ensure we meet our Strategic Plan’s objectives. I would like to Murrough McDonagh express my sincere thanks to all our Chief Executive Officer funders. The year 2019 saw some small changes in our staffing. At the end of December 31 Supporting and Developing Hillwalking

Growing our membership and Strengthening our part of Mountaineering Ireland’s democratic process. They are often the developing hillwalking support for hillwalkers catalyst for the review of a policy or for a campaign or action to be launched. Mountaineering Ireland’s new Hillwalking In 2019, four Club Support Meetings Some of the topics that were raised last Committee commenced work in 2019 were held around the country, where year concerned developments re and held four meetings. The last quarter Mountaineering Ireland staff met with Luggala Estate, club administration, an of 2019 also saw the appointment of a members from over forty-five clubs indemnity scheme for landowners and Hillwalking Development Officer to solely from Cork, Dublin, Galway, Newry and general insurance queries. focus on developing hillwalking and the surrounding areas. The meetings supporting hillwalkers to ensure their provided a great opportunity for all club Support was also on hand to ensure that needs are met. committees to meet Mountaineering club committees have sufficient Ireland’s officers, while also facilitating information to follow best practice A number of projects were commenced information sharing between clubs and within their clubs, with an emphasis on by the Committee in 2019, including providing an opportunity for club providing information about new re-engaging with OSi to improve committees to receive relevant regulations in relation to GDPR and communications and to work with them information that will help in the running Safeguarding to help ensure protection on their plans for future maps. We would of their club. for both clubs and their members. like to thank all our clubs that have A toolkit is being developed to support provided feedback to date, which will Two Members’ Forums were also held clubs in attracting and retaining help improve the quality of mapping for last year, one after the AGM at the Spring members. The first step was initiated by upland areas, with specific information Gathering and the other during the circulating a survey to all clubs to provided for walkers and climbers. Autumn Gathering. These forums, where identify their needs and what resources clubs and individual members can put they require to use the toolkit. Funding The Irish section of the E8 walking route forward items to be discussed, are a key was also secured to reproduce a Walk has been tracked and can be completed Safely leaflet to be published in 2020. in either direction. It incorporates a number of Ireland’s own long-distance National Waymarked Trails including: The starting from Dublin, The (The Barrow Tow Path), Stage 1, 2, 3 and 4 of The , Stage 1 and 2 of The (The Avondhu Way and Duhallow Way), The and finally The in west Cork.

Ten new clubs were affiliated with Mountaineering Ireland in 2019, bringing the membership up to a total of 14,020, which includes 191 clubs and 1770 individual members as of October 2019. 32 Building greater relationships Many meetings were held throughout the year with both new and existing members, engaging with potential clubs on a one-to-one basis and in groups. Mountaineering Ireland staff also attended various events, such as the Killarney Mountain Festival, where both members and potential members visited the stand to learn more about Mountaineering Ireland.

Mountaineering Ireland has also continued to host gatherings, providing important opportunities for members and the wider mountaineering community to come together and share their passion for the mountains.

Kilmacthomas Walking Club hosted a very successful Mountaineering Ireland Safeguarding Autumn Gathering based in Dungarvan, Co Waterford, on October 18-20th, 2019. As per the Children First Act 2015, anyone The event opened with a talk from Grace who has access to minors (persons under O’Sullivan, a Tramore native and Green eighteen years) in a service, coaching or Party MEP, who gave an account Website and social media training capacity must undertake a supported by photos of her interesting Safeguarding Level 1 Course. life as a Greenpeace activist, an ecologist The website continues to be a valuable Mountaineering Ireland endeavours to and environmental activist, to her resource for both individual and club encourage clubs to support youths to present role as an EU politician. There members. It offers relevant information, enjoy our sport. Safeguarding Level 1 were various walks, training sessions and documentation and resources to ensure workshops were run as a service to our workshops on offer throughout the our members are informed and up to members in 2019. These workshops are weekend. date with Mountaineering Ireland’s available when the demand is sufficient. activities and endeavours. All clubs that have youths participating A number of talks were organised for are required to conduct a risk assessment members throughout the year, starting Mountaineering Ireland’s social media and to display their Safeguarding with James Forrest, a freelance presence continued to grow, with Statement. Mountaineering Ireland’s adventure and travel writer from increasing activity across Facebook, safeguarding statement and policy can Cumbria in England, who toured Dublin, Twitter and Instagram. Facebook be found at: Thurles and Newry at the start of the continued to be a popular means of https://www.mountaineering.ie/ year ,talking about his completion of the engaging with members and the public, membersandclubs/GardaVettinginClubs. Vandeleur-Lynam list of 273 Irish peaks with over 17,930 followers on Facebook of 600m height or more in just fifty-six and one post reaching 184,437 users. Hillwalking Committee days. Women in Sport A lot of this activity is guided by December saw a full house of in excess Mountaineering Ireland’s Hillwalking of 400 people attending the The 2019 Women With Altitude event Committee. The members of that Mountaineering Ireland 2019 Lynam committee in 2019 were: Grainne Lecture and Award. Sir Chris Bonington was based in Killary Adventure Centre in the beautiful landscape of Connemara McLaughlin (Chairperson), Ruth Whelan gave a very personal account of his life as (Secretary), Margaret Collins, Chris Evans, a mountaineer and it was very fitting over the weekend of May 17-19th. Over ninety women from all over the country, Veronica Kelly, Roy Madden, Russell Mills, that he was presented with the 2019 Declan Murphy, Louise Nolan and with all levels of experience, along with Lynam Medal for his lifetime’s Marian Wallis. contribution to mountaineering. instructors and the organising team, were in attendance. A feedback survey sent out to the participants after the event showed that over 70% of participants had never been to a Women With Altitude event before. Overall, the feedback showed that the event environment was welcoming and inclusive of women of all ages, ability and If you would like to know more about experience. 90% of respondents either any of the activities mentioned here, please contact Ruth Whelan, agreed or strongly agreed that they Mountaineering Ireland’s learned new skills and that knowledge Hillwalking Development Officer, was shared, and 85% stated that as a on [email protected]. result of this weekend they would try more challenging activities in hillwalking, climbing and/or mountaineering. 33 Supporting and Developing Climbing Climbing meets Fair Head Climbers’ Meet weather forecast drew a larger than expected crowd, who were rewarded with Climbing meets provide all climbers with Under the stewardship of Paul Swail, the perfect climbing conditions. On the an opportunity to come together to Fair Head Climbers’ Meet has grown into Saturday evening, the meet’s guest climb, share knowledge and make new one of the biggest events in the Irish climber, Angus Kille, gave a hugely partnerships. The meets are organised by climbing calendar. The 2019 meet was entertaining insight into his climbing a host club with support from organised by Dal Riada Climbing Club, progression. Mountaineering Ireland. supported by Paul Swail. As well as three days of great climbing, the attendees at Climbfest the meet were treated to two inspiring Youth Trad Climbing Camps talks: Freja Shannon spoke on the Friday Organised by the Colmcille Climbers’ evening and Dutch climber Jorg With the aim of introducing young people Club, the 2019 Climbfest climbing meet Verhoven spoke on the Saturday, to to trad climbing, two Youth Trad Climbing took place at Malin Head, Co Donegal, enthusiastic audiences. Camps were held in July, the first in the over the May bank holiday weekend. Burren, Co Clare, and the second in Three days of dry but breezy weather Burren Climbing Meet , Co Wicklow. Under the provided an exhilarating start to the guidance of the camps’ main instructors, climbing season. Jointly organised by the Irish Angela Carlin and John Healy, the young Mountaineering Club and the Dal Riada climbers developed their skills, based on Climbing Club, the Burren Climbing Meet their prior experience and their own has grown in popularity. Last year, a good personal goals.

Irish Bouldering Championship 2019

Results First Place Second Place Third Place

Senior Female Lucy Mitchell Victoria Watterson Trish Fox

Senior Male Daragh O’Connor Ciaran Scanlon Michael O’Neill Female Youth A Anna De Souza Paola Neal-Fagan Jessica McGarry

Male Youth A Sean O’Connor Marcus McDowell Tommy Myles

Female Youth B Faith Blaney Rhyna Conroy Bonita Thurston

Male Youth B Luca McDowell George Lassov Sean Brown

Female Youth C Caelin Lenehan Eabha Hallissey Eve Buckley

Male Youth C Sam Monedero-Egan Zach McClune Fionn O’Connor 34 UIAA Ice-Climbing World Cup The 2019 UIAA Ice-Climbing World Cup proved to be the most successful to date for Eimir McSwiggan. Eimir opened her season with an 8th place in South Korea before taking 2nd place in . In the three European rounds, Eimir was placed 9th in Switzerland, 4th in Italy and 8th in France. Coming into the final round, the chance of a place on the overall podium was high for the County Tyrone climber. In a stunning and nail-biting performance, Eimir took 3rd place in the USA and with it secured an overall world ranking of 3rd.

Youth Climbing Team On the Saturday, two climbers qualified for the final round of the bouldering Following five years of service, Terry competition, Matthew Murray in Male O’Connor stepped down from the role of Youth C and Dylan Murray in Male Youth E. Climbing Wall Seminar Youth Climbing Team Coach. In advance of On Sunday, six climbers qualified for the stepping down, Terry worked closely with final round, Bonita Thurston in Female B, Rob Hunter to facilitate a smooth The Climbing Wall Seminar attracted Caelin Lenehan in Female C, Sean transition. owners, managers and staff from a wide Henchion and Matthew Murray in Male C, variety of Irish climbing walls. The seminar Dylan Murray in Male E and Ilmur Throughout 2019, Rob worked closely with focused on issues relating to compliance Jonsdottir in Female E. All six climbers members of the Youth Climbing Team, with relevant safety standards and their providing focused training sessions to help performed very well, with Matthew significance to the very hot topic of the climbers prepare for competitions as securing first place overall in his category. insurance. well as supporting the climbers at IFSC competitions. Irish Bouldering With presentations from several leading authorities such as Nate McMullan and Championship Pete Stacey, the attendees were given Youth Climbing Series current and pertinent information on how The 2019 Irish Bouldering Championship to best operate their climbing walls. With a new format for 2019, the Youth Climbing Series comprised four rounds. The was hosted by the Dublin Climbing series opened at the Dublin Climbing Centre over the weekend of April 6-7th. Climbing Committee Centre with a bouldering round that The results are shown in the table on attracted almost 130 competitors. Round page 34. Mountaineering Ireland’s work in climbing two took place at the Foyle Arena, round is guided by the members of the Climbing three at Awesome Walls Cork and round Irish Lead Climbing Committee. The members of the four was held at Awesome Walls Dublin. committee in 2019 were: Championship Simon Walsh (Chairperson – resigned The top three climbers in each of the March); Geoff Thomas (Chairperson – from competition categories over the four The 2019 Irish Lead Climbing March); Peter Wood; John Healy; Ricky Bell; rounds then competed in the BMC Youth Championship took place at Awesome John Harrison; Angela Carlin (resigned Climbing Series Grand Final, which took Walls Dublin over the weekend of March); Clare Sheridan (resigned March); place in Sheffield over the weekend of October 19-20th. The results are shown Kelley Smith (from September); Chloe April 27-28th. in the table on this page. Condron (from September) and Damien O’Sullivan (Secretary).

Irish Lead Climbing Championship 2019

Results First Place Second Place Third Place

Senior Female Lucy Mitchell Chloe Condron Aisling Brennan

Senior Male Michael O’Neill Ciaran Scanlon Andres Pesquaria Female Youth A Paola Neal-Fagan Ella Brown If you would like to know more about Mountaineering Ireland’s work in Male Youth A Marcus McDowell Dom Donnell Jude McInerney climbing, please contact Damien O’Sullivan, Mountaineering Female Youth B Ella Marshall Rhyna Conroy Faith Blaney Ireland’s Climbing Officer, on [email protected]. Male Youth B Reuben Aiken Theo Cassani Luke Van Impe

Female Youth C Jessica Claxton-Daniels Caelin Lenehan Kasha Ogilvie

Male Youth C Sean Henchion Archie Tolland Zach McClune 35 Training and Skills

Mountain Training club training by bringing clubs together Skills series and to share ideas, inspire training and Board Ireland promote development within clubs. training resources Thank you to the numerous volunteers In 2019, Mountain Training Board Ireland involved. Online resources increased, as did (MTBI) continued to administer quality participant engagement with the skills assured, internationally recognised The doubled training grant fund videos, presentations, library and training mountain training awards and schemes prompted more applications and was literature. They can be found on the on the island of Ireland, delivered by promoted at the regional meetings, website, www.mountaineering.ie, in the qualified and experienced trainers, who leading to more training provision and an training downloads section and are underwent regular moderation and met improved training ethos within clubs. The beneficial to clubs, individuals, candidates CPD requirements. successful role models that emerged and providers. serve to inspire others to follow. The Mountaineering Ireland Training Office provides an annual suite of Training Providers member offerings: national and An increase in training providers covering international meets; multi-discipline the island of Ireland has increased skills workshops; club training officer provision and diversity of courses. workshops and regional meetings; Providers have been updated and inducted mentoring opportunities; and award in the new and revised climbing awards. scheme provision. Candidate numbers continue to grow.

MTBI are in a unique position, providing Annual Providers Workshops support high and developing both formal and informal training standards and are delivered by training, and, by consulting with the Training Officer. The benefits of stakeholders, reviewing current provision gathering providers together are many and determining the way forward. We and allow for: updates; sharing of promote self-reliance, and inspire learnings; development of skills and participation and adventure through techniques; discussion of syllabi, teaching skills development, thus facilitating and instruction methods; and induction enjoyment and safety. for revised awards. Continued professional development (CPD) events Training for clubs are essential to not only meet association and training board requirements, but also Regional Club Training Officer meetings to feed the desire for knowledge and to and workshops continue to target in- appeal to the enquiring mind. 36 “ Mountain Training Board Ireland administers quality assured, internationally recognised mountain training awards and schemes on the island of Ireland.”

Links with Other and Ireland. The Mountain Training Climbing Awards Review was completed Organisations and the Walking Scheme Review commenced. The collaborative work Mountain Training between all the training boards across the UK and Ireland has maintained the UK and Ireland consistent momentum essential to develop the existing awards and to add The DLOG system, which runs in parallel new schemes and awards to the suite of with the Mountain Training UK and shared awards already on offer. Ireland (MTUKI) Candidate Management System, continued to evolve and increase functionality for our Sport Ireland Coaching organisation. Communication between Mountaineering Ireland has four awards the two systems allows for transparency on the Sport Ireland Coaching Adventure within the home nation’s training boards Sports Framework and one award on the and transferability for candidates of UK Sport Ireland Coaching Framework. Work and Ireland shared awards. on this continued throughout 2019. Mountaineering Ireland and Mountain Training Board Ireland continued as full Membership of Mountain voting members of Mountain Training UK Training Board Ireland Mountain Training Board Ireland (MTBI) Registrations 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 administers quality assured, internationally recognised, mountain Award training awards and schemes on the island of Ireland. The members of MTBI Mountain Leader Award 94 98 76 124 87 also influence the direction of the work Hill & Moorland Leader 2 2 6 20 26 of Mountaineering Ireland’s Training Office. The Board’s members in 2019 Lowland Leader Award 45 88 77 71 75 were Dawson Stelfox (Chairperson), Kevin Expedition Module - - 48 71 75 O’Callaghan, Alan Mordaunt, Colin Gibbon, Kate Thompson, Stephen Creber, Rock Climbing Instructor (Single Pitch Award) 69 122 142 116 95 Lorcan McDonnell, David Batt, Joe McKnight, Kieran O’Hara, Alan Rock Climbing Development Instructor N/a N/a N/a N/a 1 Fairweather and John Cousins, and Jane Carney was the Secretary. Multi Pitch Award 7 3 2 10 2

Climbing Wall Instructor 28 34 53 77 97

Climbing Wall Development Instructor 6 7 2 36 17

Level 1 Climbing Coach 9 18 2 23 16

Mountain Skills Registration N/a N/a N/a N/a 574* For more information on any aspect of Rock Skills Registration N/a N/a N/a N/a 56* training, please contact Jane Carney, Mountaineering Mountain Skills Participation 1,236 1,187 1,089 1,120 712 Ireland’s Training Officer, on [email protected]. Rock Skills Participation N/a N/a N/a N/a 43

Total 1,496 1,559 1,497 1,668 1,246

FUNdamentals 112 73 90 192 91

*Not included in the total

37 Improving Access and Protecting the Mountain Environment

The mountain, crag or coastal Comhairle na Tuaithe Quarry near Newry as a venue for environment, and access to these places, Recreational access in Ireland is within climbing. The quarry is owned by the are fundamental to hillwalking and the remit of Comhairle na Tuaithe, the council. In December, Mountaineering climbing, and to the quality of the national advisory body on outdoor Ireland submitted a detailed Options experiences we enjoy. Mountaineering recreation. In June 2019, the Minister for Appraisal to the council. Ireland’s Access and Conservation work Rural and Community Development, focuses on two strategic objectives: Michael Ring TD, appointed Dr Liam Active at national and local level ● To strive for improved and assured Twomey as the independent Chairperson Recreational access in Ireland is an access for responsible hillwalkers and of Comhairle na Tuaithe and presented evolving situation. Mountaineering climbers. Comhairle members with a renewed Ireland is an active player in discussions, ● To be a voice for the protection of mandate for their work, both north and south. Mountaineering mountain landscapes. developments which Mountaineering Ireland’s input to national-level Ireland welcomed. discussions on access is strengthened by knowledge of local issues and by Improving Access Mountain Access Project solutions being found at local level. Mountaineering Ireland actively works to Mountaineering Ireland continued to Local and national action must continue improve and secure reasonable access push the Department of Rural and to support each other as we actively for responsible hillwalkers and climbers. Community Development for progress consider options for managing Mountaineering Ireland acknowledges on the indemnity arrangement promised recreational activity and securing access and appreciates that in the majority of to landowners in the two pilot Mountain for the decades ahead. hill and coastal locations the public Access Areas – the MacGillycuddy Reeks enjoyment of privately-owned land is and Binn Shléibhe near Clonbur, Co Mountain Environment available, mainly due to the goodwill and Galway. The Mountain Access project is designed to provide clarity regarding tolerance of the landowners, rather than Helping the Hills access being based on any formal access, based on the voluntary arrangement. agreement of landowners in an area. With increasing footfall on Ireland’s With greater support from government, mountains, trampling and path erosion Increasing participation in outdoor this model of agreed access has the are ever more evident. This is a concern recreation activities, whilst on many potential to expand to other areas. for Mountaineering Ireland members, levels a very positive development, is both in terms of damage to the exerting greater pressure on this largely mountain environment and in how Luggala Estate erosion detracts from the quality of our unmanaged situation. Examples include Autumn 2019 brought news of the sale roads blocked by parked cars, reduced recreation experiences. As hillwalkers and of Luggala Estate, which includes the climbers, we contribute to this problem privacy for local residents and the visible mountains of Knocknacloghoge and impact of increased footfall on our and we also need to be part of the Luggala, to a private buyer based abroad. solution. fragile upland environment. Mountaineering Ireland had positive engagement with the new owners and, Mountaineering Ireland started the in the initial months, access continued as Helping the Hills initiative in 2012 to raise previously. awareness of upland path erosion and to highlight the need for skills and Dog control investment in this area (see In September, Mountaineering Ireland www.helpingthehills.ie). responded to public consultation on dog control in Ireland with a submission During 2019, Mountaineering Ireland highlighting the connection between dog made an input to a number of upland control, outdoor recreation and access path projects. Planning consent was for hillwalking and climbing. secured in 2019 for habitat restoration and sustainable access paths on both Croagh Patrick and Errigal. Northern Ireland Following consultation in 2018, the Mountaineering Ireland also liaised with Department of Agriculture, Environment the National Trust team working on the and Rural Affairs produced a discussion Mournes Path Project and participated in paper on a review of access legislation, site visits to discuss work proposed for which Mountaineering Ireland and others the Glen River path. provided feedback on. Upland management Moor Hill Quarry Ireland’s mountains inspire, shape and Discussions took place with Newry, enrich the recreation experiences Mourne and Down District Council about enjoyed by hillwalkers and climbers. The the opportunity to develop Moor Hill character of the mountain environment 38 is being altered all the time by changes in land use, including changes associated with recreation activity. Mountaineering Ireland’s vision for the future of Ireland’s mountains, agreed by members in March 2017, is that Ireland’s mountain landscapes will be valued and protected as environmental, cultural and recreational assets.

Mountaineering Ireland works towards this vision through written submissions, and engagement with other organisations that share a concern for upland areas.

Towards the end of 2019 Mountaineering Ireland contributed to discussions arising from the publication by the Irish Uplands Forum of an island-wide socio-economic profile of Ireland’s upland areas. The report calls for an integrated policy approach to address the challenges facing Ireland’s uplands, with upland Access and Conservation partnership groups, such as the Wicklow Committee Uplands Council, having a central role. All this activity is guided by Mountaineering Ireland’s Access and Club Environmental Officers Conservation Committee. The members Empowering Members Mountaineering Ireland urges all its of the committee in 2019 were: Helen Respect for the wonderful, but fragile affiliated clubs to appoint an Donoghue (Chairperson); Helen Lawless environment enjoyed by hillwalkers and Environmental Officer, who can help to (Secretary); Jack Bergin; Noel Caffrey climbers, and being a positive voice for raise awareness within their club and act (from October); Fióna Gallagher (from its protection, is one of Mountaineering as a point of contact with May); Ursula MacPherson (from May); Ireland’s core values. Mountaineering Mountaineering Ireland on access and Mike Maunsell (resigned February); Ireland undertook a range of activities in environmental matters. In turn, Vincent McAlinden; Aine McGirl (from 2019 to help expand the community of Mountaineering Ireland provides email May); David Pollard (from May) and Orla people passionate about Ireland’s updates, advice and training workshops. Prendergast. mountain, crag and coastal environment, If your club is not receiving this and to empower more members to take information, please get in touch. Collective effort action to protect these special places. Mountaineering Ireland is grateful to the Access and Conservation many members who contribute to our Environmental awareness Network Access and Conservation work, as Club In conjunction with GMIT Mayo, In 2019, Mountaineering Ireland formed Environmental Officers, as Petersburg OETC and Joyce Country and an Access and Conservation Network to Mountaineering Ireland representatives Western Lakes Geo Enterprise, allow members around the island to feed on other organisations, through Mountaineering Ireland hosted a into policy development, submissions committee involvement and, successful Mountain Environment and specific projects without the importantly, through personal action to weekend in Clonbur in May, with commitment of being on protect access and the mountain participation from 14 separate clubs and Mountaineering Ireland’s Access and environment. This collective effort is a number of training providers. Further Conservation Committee. More than one vital, if Mountaineering Ireland is to one-day environmental awareness hundred people responded positively to deliver on its strategic objectives. events were held in the , an invitation to join the network and the Wicklow Mountains, on Cuilcagh and forty-seven people participated in a in the Comeraghs. special forum held at Irish Sport HQ in November to launch the network.

If you would like to know more about any of the activities mentioned here, please contact Helen Lawless, Mountaineering Ireland’s Access and Conservation Officer, on [email protected].

39 Club Development Programme Northern Ireland and Get Climbing Initiative

In May 2017, Mountaineering Ireland launched a Club Development Programme for Northern Ireland after securing funding for a four-year period through Sport Northern Ireland’s Sporting Clubs initiative. The aim of the programme is to support and develop climbing clubs in Northern Ireland. Kevin Kilroy is employed to deliver this programme as Club Development Officer, based at Tollymore National Outdoor Centre in County Down. Developments made within third year of the programme Twelve clubs in Northern Ireland received training support to help their members develop skills across a broad range of Get Climbing areas within mountaineering – from injury prevention workshops and route This programme continues to engage setting training to traditional rock with young people aged from nine to climbing and hill skills courses. A total eighteen years from hard to reach of 852 learning opportunities were communities and has grown year by year, provided to club members and since it commenced in 2017. prospective club members in year three. Funded via Sport Ireland through the Dormant Accounts Funding stream, this Youth development is a key aspect of the programme aims to introduce young programme. Club events, such as the people from disadvantaged Mourne Youth Trad Fest, hosted by Oisin communities to indoor and outdoor and Emma Hallissey, and the Mourne climbing. Its intention is that all the Youth Climbing Club, have helped more participants will achieve an NICAS Level 1 young people to experience rock qualification, as well as experiencing climbing in Ireland thanks to the taster sessions on the hills. generosity of a strong volunteer team and initiative club committee. Now in its Last year saw 163 participants benefiting second year, Trad Fest saw twenty young from this sports inclusion programme climbers and twenty volunteers take to and, in total, the Get Climbing the crags of the Mournes in small teams, programme provided 934 climbing to return in the evening to the Hallissey opportunities to participants in 2019. family home (‘basecamp’ for the weekend!) to share each others’ stories of the day’s adventures on the Mourne granite.

Sport Northern Ireland’s Tollymore National Outdoor Centre, as well as local businesses and self-employed instructors, provided club members with For more information on the Club many services throughout the year, from Development Programme in delivery of NGB training courses, climbing Northern Ireland, please contact wall maintenance and route setting, as Kevin Kilroy, Mountaineering well as instruction and coaching on club Ireland’s Youth Development Officer trips and training days. for Northern Ireland, on [email protected]. Mountaineering Ireland offers its sincere For more information on Get thanks to everyone who played an active Climbing, please contact Ania role in this year’s club development Bakiewicz, Mountaineering Ireland’s programme for Northern Ireland. Women in Sport Coordinator, on 40 [email protected]. Get Ireland Walking Initiative

Get Ireland Walking continued to reach Woodlands for Health To support the research, Get Ireland communities and partners in 2019 with Partners: MHI, LSP, Coillte, UL Walking is now funding a Walking walking programmes, resources and Following on from the success of the Development Officer, who will provide concepts shared throughout our programme in Wicklow and Dún insight into the delivery, facilitators and networks. Laoghaire-Rathdown, Get Ireland Walking barriers around programming for walking coordinated and supported the in addition to generating stakeholder Many challenges exist as the initiative expansion and delivery in 2019 to engagement and buy-in. grows and expands but, with much will Wexford (x 2), Laois, Kerry, Sligo, and vision, we strive to succeed in all Roscommon and Limerick, and added To date, forums have taken place with areas of our work. New programmes and Cavan as a new site. Multiple new sites walkers and communities by transport projects were developed, all in have been identified and sought. and mobility types. Next steps include partnership, with some real positive National scale-up discussions are now developing a system map for Cork early outcomes to build upon next year. planned for February 2020, through a in Qtr 1, 2020. International experts will wider WFH Forum programme. also advise on the process in Qtr 1, 2020. With a new team now on board, the possibilities and vision are very much Waterways for Health Other supports alive. Through innovative thinking and Partners: Waterways Ireland, LSPs in delivery methods, the initiative aims to Laois and Kildare Get Ireland Walking provides free Walk continue to grow and to place itself as a Following the success of the Woodlands Leader Insurance for groups and leader in physical activity promotion. for Health Programme and the evident signposting to training opportunities for benefits of exercising in nature, a small interested people. Fact sheets and other Programmes pilot programme was established, resources, including hats, 21-day facilitated by Laois and Kildare LSPs, to Challenge Cards and Get Active, Go support clients of Cuan Mhuire Addiction Walking leaflets, are also available, plus Active Community Walking Programme phone and online support. Partner: Local Sports Partnership (LSP) Treatment Centre in Athy, Co Kildare. The partnership with Waterways Ireland and ● 73 Active Community Walking Groups the LSPs once again showed the impact By the end of 2019, 1,908 Registered ● >800 participants agencies can have when working closely Walking Groups and Clubs had been together. The feedback from participants established by Get Ireland Walking: Schools Walking Project and staff was moving, so much so that ● 566 Community Walking Groups Partner: ASF, LSP the possibility now arises of integrating a ● 442 GAA clubs ● >800 schools ● walking programme into the treatment >900 ASW Packs circulated to plan for all clients as part of their ● >100 Men’s Sheds. primary and special schools recovery. ● Plans in place with our partner to mobilise schools throughout the year via nudges and active weeks. Research An energetic young researcher has been Men’s Sheds Initiative: Sheds ag Siúl selected through an Employment Based Partner: IMSA Programme between Get Ireland Walking Provided training and support for four and Waterford Institute of Technology. For more information on the Get counties (Waterford, Kildare, Limerick The purpose of his research is to create a Ireland Walking Initiative, please and Louth) in 2019. This walking blueprint for walking promotion in contact Jason King, the Get Ireland programme provided the physical that reflects all aspects of Walking Programme Manager, on [email protected]. activity component of the Sheds for Life walking. The post is also supported by research. The programme and research the Cork Local Sports Partnership and continue into 2020. their team of officers. 41 CRETE

HIKING IN CRETE

Aongus Ó hAonghusa describes some great walks on the Greek island of Crete

rete, the largest of Greece’s islands, is a Above: The stone point (2,456m), located in the centre of the island. great hiking destination. Its mountains chapel of Timios The Lassithi Plateau area (900m) is to the east, and may not match the height of the Alps Stavros on the the large wilderness area of the Lefka Ori (White but it has numerous rugged, remote and summit of Mountains) lies towards the west of the island. rarely visited peaks, many in excess of Psiloritis The south coast is undeveloped and is wild and 2,000 metres high. Its mountains are (2,456m). beautiful; it has the Samaria Gorge – perhaps the Ccrossed by tracks and are challenging to walk in, while island’s best-known visitor attraction. its south coast also warrants exploration. Together, The European E4 long-distance trail traverses the they can provide a memorable experience. island and is a well-marked route of over 400km that The island is some 260 kilometres in length from passes through all of the high mountain areas and east to west and only 60km across at its widest along the south coast. The path, a mixture of old point. Due to its strategic location it has a long and trails and tracks, is generally of good quality and interesting history, and it has been invaded and navigation is normally easy as it is well marked with fought over for millennia. The island has many yellow and black paint on rocks or poles. The terrain archaeological and religious attractions, which can can be stony and rough at times, but underfoot add interest to any holiday visit. conditions are generally good. Crete is easily accessible from Ireland with direct Water is a critical issue here. Springs and cisterns flights from Dublin and Belfast to the island’s largest are to be found in key locations that are marked on city, Heraklion, and its second city, Chania, both maps. They are generally reliable, but purification located on the north coast. tablets should be carried, just in case. The island’s high mountains fall into three distinct The island is well served by an extensive, good- geographic areas. Psiloritis (Mount Ida) is the highest value public bus system. Bus routes radiate from the larger towns on the north coast, with good intercity services. Bus services into and across the mountains ➤ Aongus Ó hAonghusa has been are less frequent, but with careful planning it is hillwalking for over 40 years. He possible to access the different areas. has walked in most of Ireland’s The western end of the south coast is served by upland areas. He has also walked regular ferry services, which connect the coastal extensively in Scotland and in the Alps, the Pyrenees, Iceland, Corsica villages, while local boats allow access to key starting and Morocco. He is a member of points for walks. Lung Gompas Hillwalking Club Accommodation in the high mountains is limited. and a former member of UCG (now While the mountains are farmed and populated, NUIG) Mountaineering Club. villages are rarely situated above the 1,000m level. Rooms are generally available in these villages, and even the smallest village will have a taverna serving Photographs: Aongus Ó hAonghusa Aongus Photographs: 42 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 food and drink. While there are a number of mountain Above: Early agricultural village sits at 738m on a steep-sided spur. refuges, only one – Kallergi mountain refuge in morning in There is no public transport beyond Anogia. I Samaria National Park in the Lefka Ori – is manned. Lassithi. negotiated with a taverna keeper to take me to the There appears to be no restrictions on wild camping. end of the road at Nida, the access point for Psiloritis, Maps of varying quality are available for the main Below: Dikti for a fee, the local taxi not being available! walking areas, while Cicerone’s excellent guidebook (2,148m), the Nida is a plateau at 1,400m and is in the heart of The High Mountains of Crete describes most of the highest point on sheep country. My camping spot was by a spring that key walking routes. the Lassithi provided excellent drinking water – a spot I shared Be warned! Crete can be very hot in summer, Plateau. with other trekkers. especially close to the coast. However, in the high Psiloritis (2,456m) is some 1,000m above Nida and mountains the temperature can be more 8km away. The path to the summit is obvious as it is comfortable, particularly if there is a hint of a breeze. well travelled, winding its way through rocky arid ➤ Cretans are friendly and welcoming and will endeavour to provide advice and assistance, even through language barriers. My experience of Crete is based on two visits to the island. In August 2014, I spent a week exploring part of the Lefka Ori, the Samaria Gorge and a stretch of the south coast, while in August/September 2018 I spent twelve days on the island, visiting the Lassithi Plateau and Psiloritis and making a return visit to the south coast. Psiloritis (Mount Ida) The village of Anogia, the access point for Psiloritis, is reached by a direct bus from Heraklion. This bustling

Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 43 CRETE

ground, though never steeply. Eventually I emerged Above left: effort, particularly down to the Lassithi Plateau with on the main ridge of the mountain with the top The heart of the its ring of mountains and hills. clearly obvious in the distance. A high-level traverse White Mountains. A long descent brought me to Agios Georgios. I leads to the summit, which is dominated by the camped at the edge of the village and treated myself Above right: At a stone chapel of Timios Stavros. to dinner at a taverna. narrow point in The views from the summit are stunning, with An early start was needed next morning in order to Samaria Gorge. Heraklion, the north and south coasts and virtually all catch the early bus to Heraklion. By then the village, of Crete being visible. Below: Marker and indeed the whole plateau, was alive with farming I returned the way I had come and camped again pole on the E4. activity – the harvest being in full swing. at the spring – on my own this time. Next morning, I hitched a lift back to Anogia, then took a bus to Heraklion and spent a welcome overnight in a hotel. Lassithi The Lassithi Plateau sits at about 900m and is fertile and intensively farmed. It is ringed by mountains, the highest point being Dikti (2,148m). The plateau can easily be accessed by bus from Heraklion. I began by visiting the nearby Katharo Plateau, which I accessed from the village of Kritsa (400m). A road from the village leads up to Katharo (1,100m), to the east of Lassithi, in some three hours. The only rain experienced over my two trips led to an early camp in woods below Katharo. Next morning brought me to the plateau itself and a refreshing break at a taverna. I picked up the E4 here and followed it to the remote village of Selakano (930m) and another welcome rest at a taverna. The E4 heads deep into the heart of the wilderness and I camped wild below the pass of Asfendami. The next day, I continued up to Avasami Pass (1,810m). Here, I was able to leave my pack and take in the summit of Dikti, reaching the top in some ninety minutes. The view from the summit was worth the Photographs: Aongus Ó hAonghusa Aongus Photographs: 44 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Lefka Ori (White Mountains) Above: Scenic Eventually you emerge from the gorge at the edge It is immediately obvious how Lefka Ori got its name, view on the south of the village of Ay Roumeli. Only reached on foot or ‘White Mountains,’ as from a distance the rocky coast of Crete. by boat, this village comes alive around midday as limestone tops and slopes appear white. Taking a bus the first walkers of the day emerge from the gorge. from the coastal village of Hora Sfakion (reached by It remains busy until evening time, when the last boat a direct bus from Chania), followed by getting a very leaves. Camping is possible at the smaller of two welcome lift from some other walkers, I was able to beaches, and there are plenty of restaurants and reach the heart of the mountains below Roussies, shops in the village. access point for the highest peak of the Lefka Ori, Pachnes (2,453m). This peak is an easy pull from The south coast Roussies, as a backpack can be left on the main path. The E4 branch along the south coast can be The top itself is a windy spot, but with great views. accessed by bus from Chania at a number of My route continued through the mountains to a locations, including Paleochora, Sougia and Hora shepherd’s hut at Katsiveli, with a welcome, if Sfakion. Other villages, such as Ay Roumeli and somewhat dubious, water supply. My camp that Loutro, are only accessible by boat or on foot. In night was near another deserted hut at Potamos addition to quality walking and stunning scenery, (1,800m). Now on the E4, my route the next day took there is much historical interest, with numerous me westwards on a good track to reach the easy churches and derelict Turkish forts to see along the summit of Melendaou (2,133m), another excellent way. The ancient ruined village of Lissos, near Sougia, viewpoint. still has clearly visible ruins of long-abandoned A steep descent off this top on rough ground led to temples and churches. a forest service road, which eventually passed the The E4 path meanders along the coast, crossing Kallergi mountain refuge (1,680m), situated above over headlands and dropping down to villages and the Samaria Gorge. Continuing downwards, I reached beaches. No coastal walk is complete without a swim the roadhead at Xyloscala (1,240m), the starting or two! Camping is possible at most villages, point for the descent of the gorge. I camped nearby otherwise rooms are generally available. and had an early start the next morning to try to get The walk from Paleochora to Hora Sfakion will take ahead of the crowd. three or four days, but boats can be used to skip Access to the Samaria Gorge is controlled and a sections. Hora Sfakion is a busy tourist hub, being fee is charged. The descent route is some 18km in the main ferry port for this part of the coast, with length and requires about five hours. The path is connecting buses leaving for the north coast cities. steep at first but is well-maintained. Eventually, it At the end of my 2018 trip I took a lunchtime bus to levels off and you enter the steep-sided gorge proper Chania, having time to explore that historic Venetian – in places you can almost reach out and touch both port city before heading to the airport for the flight sides at the same time. home ■ Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 45 GREENLAND

IN THE SCHWEIZERLAND ALPS

Harry Harbison makes a traverse of the Schweizerland Alps in East Greenland

reenland has held a mystical attraction Above: Tasiilaq In the second week of August, I took a flight from for me for a long time. This has arisen Fjord. Dublin to Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik. After an from reading the various accounts of overnight stay there, a transfer to the domestic early explorers and hearing the tales of Below: Fin whales airport was followed by a flight to Kulusuk Airport, Irish sailing friends, who have travelled in Tasiilaq Fjord. one of only two airports on Greenland’s east coast, there more recently, going as far north with just a gravel runway surface. Kulusuk is a small Gas Scoresbysund on the east coast. Indeed, I was part settlement on an island of the same name in the of a crew that sailed from Newfoundland to Sisimiut North Atlantic off south-eastern Greenland. We flew in Disco Bay on the west coast in 2015, although we there in a 40-seater aircraft. During the flight, I did not get the opportunity to explore the hinterland gradually met the other expedition members, who or mountains in that part of the country on that hailed from Montana, Boston and the UK. occasion. In Kulusuk, with a population of approximately 240 As 2019 dawned, I felt it was time to satisfy the people, you will see no conventional cars. Transport is yearnings I still had. After much research, I joined up by quad bikes, with trolleys or trailers for goods. with Pirhuk Greenland Mountain Guides for a seven- day traverse of the Schweizerland Alps in East Greenland.

➤ Harry Harbison is originally from Dublin and has lived in Limerick since the 1990s. He is a member of Limerick Climbing Club and has hiked and climbed extensively in Ireland, the Alps and northern Spain, in addition to making trips to Nepal, Patagonia, New Zealand and, most recently, Greenland. He has also sailed extensively in the North Atlantic – Newfoundland, Greenland, Iceland and Spain – including making an Atlantic crossing. Photographs: Harry Harbison Harry Photographs: 46 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 A half-hour walk from the airstrip brought us to the Above: Dry followed by a pod of fin whales, magnificent sights lodge of Matt and Helen Spenceley, who have run glacier bed. and a great start to our trip. their lodge and Pirhuk expeditions for almost twenty Throughout the boat trip, there was an impressive years, in this very remote part of the world. Below: Climbing vista of peaks, glaciers, hanging valleys, small As with large parts of Greenland, the coast in this the glacier. icebergs and sea ice. The Schweizerland Alps were region is characterised by long, deep fjords with named by a Swiss explorer who was one of the first numerous islands and archipelagos. outsiders to visit the region. With all the packs ashore at Tasiilaq Fjord, we We set off headed up a valley to the south-east to gain the We made a 7.00am start the following morning. With snout of a glacier descending into the valley from the rucksacks loaded with stoves, fuel, food, tents, peaks above us. After a short glacier crossing (no climbing and personal gear, we headed for the docks crampons required) we descended a valley on the far and a two-hour boat trip into the network of fjords. side, continuing back to fjord level, where we camped We made our way to the entrance of Tasiilaq Fjord, for the first night. where we were dropped off to commence our Next morning, after a breakfast of porridge, we traverse of the Schweizerland Alps. En route, we ran followed the shore of the fjord and took a quick swim into a spectacular pod of humpback whales, in water that felt surprisingly warm at around 8°C. After a lunch of wraps, dried meat, cheese, raisins and relish, we turned inland and progressed for several kilometres along a glacial floodplain, with a healthy torrent of water coming from a distant glacier, which was our next target. We camped on a sandy site just below the foot of that glacier. The following morning, we went northwards onto the ice and climbed 750m up the glacier, the lower reaches of which were characterised by dry ice up to the snowline at around 650m. From there, we put on crampons and roped up as a single group. The going then slowed up significantly, with constant detouring around crevasses for up to 5km of trekking. All around us there were impressively jagged peaks, with glaciers coming down from side- valleys. As the area is so infrequently visited, only the very highest peaks have names and less than 10% have been climbed. Similarly, the glaciers are so numerous that only the largest have names. On reaching the plateau, we continued north- eastwards across the ice-fields to find a suitable site to camp. Night-time bear-watch Camping in this part of the world is accompanied by the essential night-time bear-watch. Each person in the group took a one- or two-hour turn on the watch ➤ Photographs: Harry Harbison Harry Photographs: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 47 GREENLAND

roster. Our protection consisted of a supply of mini- Above: On the alternative, adjacent peak, again with no spot height, flares to scare any polar bear away, should it summit. no name and no record of a previous summit. approach the camp. The last resort would be the rifle A snow-slope led onto scree and a rocky col before carried by our guide, David. In his three years in this Below: Wading a short scramble to the summit. region he had yet to use the weapon. through one of The surrounding vista of peaks, with near-vertical The sighting of a bear would have brought the trip many glacier walls, glaciers as far as could be seen, and ice-caps, to a quick end as these curious but aggressive rivers. valleys and distant fjords and icebergs, was a truly animals will continue to return to a camp, even after awesome sight. With little or no breeze and with mild being scared away temporarily by flares. The gun is a temperatures, we took some time to soak it all in weapon of last resort, and preferred practice is to before descending back to camp. immediately trek to the nearest point of extraction and call for collection by boat via the satellite phone. Camping at Kaarale Glacier The only maps available of Greenland are at a scale After a leisurely lunch (same menu as previously), we of 1:250,000 and therefore lack much detail. The broke camp and headed down a north-eastwards- notes include a warning that magnetic north is 23 running glacier in a zig-zag fashion towards the head degrees west, but gives no indication of the annual of the Sermiligaaq Fjord and the adjoining Kaarale change in variation. Glacier. This is one of the most active glaciers in the Summertime weather is dominated by a high- region, with constant claps of thunder as chunks of pressure zone centred over the country. Occasionally, ice and small bergs continuously calve into the fjord. low-pressure zones can bring a degree of wind, rain We camped at the foot of the glacier, where we and lower visibility, but we were fortunate not to experience that. Daytime temperatures of 11-13°C were well above the norm of 7-9°C, dropping to 1-2°C at night. Apart from morning mist, the days were clear, without a cloud in sight. A comparison of a map published in 1993 with one published in 2015 shows the dramatic changes in position of the glacier faces and the very significant impact of climate change on the region. First ascent Next morning, with crampons on and roped up, we selected a peak for climbing. There was no known record of the peaks in this area having been climbed previously. We estimated the height at about 920m. Peaks in this area are not as high as further inland, the highest in the region being in the order of 1,200- 1,300m. Again, there was no spot height information on the map. As we approached a long snow-slope to the summit, it was topped with cornices and snow debris at the bottom. A change of plan focused on an Photographs: Harry Harbison Harry Photographs: 48 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 found the first signs of life since the start of the trip – Above: We passed some small lakes with pristine clear the footprints of an Arctic fox and also of many Descending from meltwater, perfect reflections of the surrounds and geese at their summer residences along the adjoining the summit no discharge stream during the drier summer shores. We ate dinner while watching the calving towards camp period. glaciers on the opposite side of the fjord. (in right-hand We eventually reached a ridge which led onto our Next morning, we trekked south-eastwards along corner). chosen summit in perfect conditions. The vista was the shore of the fjord. We crossed numerous streams, again superb, with large glaciers at the head of the some of which required removal of boots and socks. Below: View on fjords, bergs and ice drifting seawards, peaks as far At the foot of one glacier, the probing of a walking descending as it was possible to see and, towards the south- stick could not find the bottom of one stream. The towards the east, the open sea of the Denmark Strait. As the only solution was to climb up the side of the glacier, Sermiligaaq conditions were mild, we again took time to soak in traverse over the top and abseil down the far side, Fjord. the whole landscape. adding two to three hours to the day. We descended to our campsite, had one last At the outer reaches of the fjord we picked out a mug of coffee and packed our gear. Our rendezvous campsite on a rough, grassy area behind the shore. boat arrived and we boarded for a two-hour high- We pitched the tents there and got the stoves up speed ride back to Kulusuk. Our traverse was over and running to cook one more freeze-dried dinner. and I felt privileged to have had the chance to I was first on the bear-watch roster that evening as explore this remote area with so many potential everyone else hit the sleeping bags. The hour’s bear- mountaineering objectives ■ watch did leave one alone to absorb the silence. The night-time light was more like twilight and, although the air is clear, it was not dark enough for stars to be visible. The silence was interrupted by the sounds of the calving from the surrounding glaciers. The ice and bergs were moving towards the mouth of the fjord as a result of the outgoing tide and would drift inwards again later in the morning as the tide turned. Second ascent Next morning, on our last day, we again picked out a peak to tackle. As we were close to the coast the surrounding peaks were lower in elevation. None had been named, so it was a case of selecting one from those around and finding a suitable route up it. The terrain consisted of boulders, loose rock and scree. Photographs: Harry Harbison Harry Photographs: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 49 EL CAPITAN

CLIMBING THE NOSE

Paul Collins tackles The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park

s a climber, you’ll always remember the Above: Martin technical routes climbed on El Capitan, is a 31-pitch first time you drove into Yosemite Valley. leads up towards aid route at 5.9 C2 VI, which follows that prow. The The road winds along the Merced River, Sickle Ledge on first ascent was made by Warren Harding, Wayne through the forest, passing formations Day 1 on the Merry and George Whitmore in 1958. It took them 45 that make the crags at home look Nose. days spread over 18 months. insignificant. Then you emerge from the Lynn Hill made the first free ascent in four days in Atrees and there is El Capitan. It is the largest wall of 1993 and went back the following year to free-climb rock you have ever seen, towering 3,000 feet (914m) it in 24 hours. above the western end of the valley. As you stare up Most parties these days take between three and at the wall, you begin to pick out the features you five days to climb the route. However, the speed have read about or seen in Reel Rock films. Then you record on the Nose is now under two hours (1.58.07) spot the climbers and they put the scale of the wall and is held by Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell. into perspective. Any thoughts you had of just rocking up and climbing it begin to fade! Heading for Yosemite El Capitan has two main faces, the South-west (on Martin Dunne, Bren Rodgers and I arrived in the left when you look at the wall) and the South- California at the beginning of September 2019. We east. Between the two faces is a massive prow that is climbed in the High Sierra before going on to 2,900ft (884m) high. The Nose, one of the first Yosemite National Park. In Yosemite Valley, we got a site in Camp 4 and set off climbing. We planned to ➤ Paul Collins started hillwalking in climb as much as possible during our stay and hoped the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains to attempt the Nose on El Capitan. Early in the trip, at a young age. He started climbing in college when he joined the UCD Martin and I went up the Regular North-west Face Mountaineering Club. Since then, he route on Half Dome. Martin climbed with Hugh has done a lot of trad climbing Irving, and I went with Conor McGovern, both of around Ireland and has also climbed whom we had met in the States. in North Wales, the Alps and the US. Martin and I had both stared up at ‘El Cap’ before, He is a member of the Dal Riada Climbing Club and currently works having been in the valley the previous year. Some of at Awesome Walls Dublin. the initial shock that comes from seeing that immense wall for the first time had worn off, but climbing it was still an intimidating prospect. Both of Photograph: Paul Collins Photograph: 50 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 WE HAD NEVER CLIMBED A BIG WALL WITH SO MANY BACK-TO-BACK PITCHES OF DIFFICULT CLIMBING.

us had climbed long routes before, but never a big wall with so many back-to-back pitches of difficult climbing. We had done some preparation at home before flying out – nothing too structured, essentially aid-climbing in and hauling very light bags. Climbing Half Dome had allowed us to practice the necessary techniques. We were psyched, but we were still total novices in terms of big wall climbing! Everything we would need had to be packed into one haul bag. There is no water on the wall, so all the water you need must be hauled. After studying the topo, we reckoned we would spend three to four days climbing. We packed about 21 litres of water – there would be no excessive tea drinking on the wall! In terms of food, it was tinned fruit for breakfast with peanut butter bagels and loads of Clif Bars for during the day. We got lucky when a climber in Camp 4 gave us a bag of out-of-date freeze-dried meals. They are light and easier to haul than canned chilli. On the wall, there is a strict Leave No Trace ethic, so all your waste needs to be bagged and taken up with you. We bought a ‘poop tube’ from a guy in the parking lot. Your poop bag goes into this section of

Above: Martin drainpipe, which has a lid and a sling, and can be leads up clipped below the haul bag next to the portaledge. towards El Cap Pretty simple. Tower on Day 2. Also, into the haul bag, we packed sleeping bags, warm jackets, a small stove and emergency gear for Below: Paul sitting out any bad weather. Including the portaledge, Collins, left, we were going to be hauling close to 40kg on our first and Martin day. Dunne in front of El Capitan October 9th, 4.00am after climbing It was time to go! The familiar feeling of apprehension the Nose route rose inside as El Capitan loomed over us in the in the centre of darkness. Martin racked up and began leading the the rock face first pitch. After a while I heard him call down that the behind them. lead line was fixed and he was ready to haul. As the bag left the ground, I followed. We were on the wall! Martin took the first block of five leads, which brought us up the initial steep slabs to Sickle Ledge. The sun rose as he started the second pitch and soon it was hot on the wall. Throughout the day the sun beat down on us and we had to be careful not to drink too much of our water too soon. We swapped over and I took the next five leads. The wall steepened and we had to pendulum across to reach Stoveleg Crack. At the time of the first ascent, pitons large enough for these hand-and-fist cracks didn’t exist, so, instead of using pitons to ascend the cracks, Warren Harding had hammered in ➤ Photographs: Tom Evans (top), Brendan O’Rourke Brendan (top), Evans Tom Photographs: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 51 EL CAPITAN

the metal legs from an old wood-burning stove Above: Martin hauls bit shakier than usual. The crack system we had been back in the day. We continued up this crack the bag up the Boot climbing ended and now we had to pendulum across system until we arrived at Dolt Tower. As the sun Flake, while Paul the wall to reach a new crack system to continue left the valley, ascends the rope to upwards, the King Swing. we hung our portaledge and settled in for our first clean the pitch. The My lead and I tried not to look down the wall as night on the wall. American team are Martin handed me the gear. This was going to be wild! on the next belay to Martin lowered me till I was hanging below the Boot October 10th, 9.00am the left. Flake. I took a moment to get psyched, then began Light crept down the wall towards our ledge as running back and forth across the wall, the gear Below: Martin the sun rose above the valley. After the climbing jangling on my harness. The aim is to swing across the cleaning the gear on and hauling of the previous day, we were feeling blank section of wall to reach another crack system the pitch above about 33 feet (10m) to the left. On my first attempt, I pretty worked, so we weren’t in a huge rush to get Camp IV ledge at moving. We ate some tinned fruit and bagels, didn’t quite make it. My climbing shoes slipped on the the beginning of glacier-polished granite and I was suddenly tumbling dismantled the portaledge and got everything Day 3. packed away. It was another sunny day, but cooler back across the wall. What a crazy pitch! I made it next now that we were higher on the wall. Martin was back in the lead. Two pitches took us to El Cap Tower, another big ledge. His third lead was the obligatory free-climbing crux of the route, a 5.8 chimney (about HVS). If you’re aiming to free the entire route, there are much harder pitches, the crux being 5.14a, but this is the hardest pitch you must free and there is no option to aid climb it instead. You chimney up between the wall and a huge flake, the Texas Flake. There is no gear; you just have to climb. Martin dispatched it quickly and soon we were standing on top, looking up at Boot Flake. Boot Flake is another massive flake, one that appears to be detached from the wall on all sides, so who knows how it’s still on the wall! To get to it, Martin climbed a short bolt ladder, followed by some tricky aid on cam hooks, before climbing the flake itself. As I followed Martin’s lead, cleaning the gear, the exposure of the situation hit me. Wow, we were high up! I continued up the rope feeling a Photographs: Tom Evans (top), Paul Collins (bottom) (top), Evans Tom Photographs: 52 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 WE CLIMBED THE THIN Above: Paul belay, we sorted the gear, nervously hoping the few above the Great clouds that had appeared were not an indication of FLAKE UP THE BLANK WALL Roof climbing the bad weather approaching. Pancake Flake. We were still in the sun as I began the next pitch, WITH 2,000 FEET OF AIR Well worth Pancake Flake. This is one of the pitches that it is BELOW US. clipping the well worth having a go at freeing (it goes at about aiders away at E2). You climb the thin flake up the blank wall with this one; it goes 2,000 feet (610m) of air below you! The top third of at about E2. the pitch is harder and, along with the next pitch up attempt and continued up the new crack system to the Camp V ledge, involves some awkward aid above me. Below: Martin climbing. With the wilder pitches of the day now behind us, leading up Now that we were above The Great Roof, climbing we continued up the wall. One long vertical pitch, and towards Camp VI in an enormous dihedral, the wind had died. Martin then a leftward traverse, brought us to the Camp IV on Day 3. took the lead and took us to the Glowering Spot, ledge. It was getting late in the day, so we set up our and then on to the Camp VI ledge. ➤ portaledge. From the ledge, we watched as climbers moved about on the wall below. As the sun set, they became little dots of torchlight. October 11th, 11.00am We were finally on the move! While packing our gear, a team had appeared from an adjacent route and moved ahead of us. This unexpected delay allowed us a more relaxed morning but cast doubts on us topping out that day. First up for me was a relatively easy pitch above Camp IV, then next up was The Great Roof. The pitch begins by climbing a right-facing corner, which slowly leans to the right, becoming a thin crack at the base of the roof. The wind picked up, sending our ropes sailing across the wall. At the Photographs: Tom Evans (top), Paul Collins (bottom) (top), Evans Tom Photographs: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 53 EL CAPITAN

The sun was leaving the wall as we reached Camp Above: At the were the headlights of the occasional car driving VI. It was beginning to get dark but, after the slow summit tree the through the meadow below and the head torches of start that morning, we felt like continuing. Martin got morning after other teams on the wall. us up the Changing Corners pitch and then we topping out on Martin’s head torch had run out of battery at the swapped leads again. The belay above the Changing the Nose at last belay and he had cleaned the pitch, using just Corners was definitely the most uncomfortable on 4.00am. the light on his phone. One more pitch to go. After a the route, the only hanging belay we came across! short crack, a bolt ladder took us through some In the dark, the wall was cooler, which made Below: The Nose steep ground to an easy slab. At the final belay, I progress feel easier. Another pitch of aiding took us to route on El couldn’t hear Martin but, after some general the Wild Stance, a small foot ledge to belay from Capitan. confusion, tugging on ropes and getting the haul with 3,000 feet (915m) of air below! All we could see bag stuck more than once, we both made it to the final belay. We coiled our ropes and then dragged our haul bag and portaledge up to flat ground beside the summit tree. Bolt Ladder (pitch 31) My watch told me that we had topped out at Changing Corners (pitch 27) 4.00am. I thought it was around midnight! We ate Glowering Spot (pitch 25) some funky barbeque-flavoured freeze-dried gloop, Pancake Flake (pitch 23) then found a flat spot of ground and fell asleep. Great Roof (pitch 22) Lynn Hill Traverse (pitch 19) October 12th Boot Flake and King Swing (pitch 16) We woke in the morning as the dazzling sun rose El Cap Tower (top of pitch 14) over Half Dome. With aching bodies from three days of climbing and hauling, it was a slow morning. While we ate the last of our food, Lynn Hill and Nina Dolt Tower (top of pitch 11) Caprez appeared. They’d been camping on top. Pretty cool to meet the person who first free- Stovelegs (pitches 8 & 9) climbed the Nose and someone working on freeing it. Sickle Ledge (top of pitch 4) We lazily sorted and packed our gear, then descended the East Ledges back to the valley. We had just climbed the Nose in three long days and we were well psyched! What were we going to climb next? ■ Photograph: Paul Collins collection Photograph: 54 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 ARIZONA

WHERE CACTUS IS KING

Kevin Higgins goes hiking in the Sonoran Desert area of Arizona

he colour scheme of many trips to big Above: View of emergencies, hence the level of regulation and mountains is generally the brilliant blue, the Sonoran advice that is administered to visitors; it is a desert, white and grey of sky, snow and rock. It is Desert, some after all. something of a change to visit a mountain thirty miles west However, the constant sunshine and pleasant region of reds, browns and golds as in the of Maricopa, temperatures in March make for delightful hiking. Sonoran Desert area of Arizona. Of course, Arizona. Parts of the routes are quite steep, with some Tthe brilliant blue sky is a constant there, and I had an exposure, although not only of the climbing kind, opportunity to take a few day-hikes in this amazing Below: since some of the hikers seem dressed more for the and varied landscape. Camelback beach than for the mountain! The level of winter The state capital, Phoenix, stands at about 300m Mountain near sunshine means that Phoenix is a destination for above sea level and, within the city limits, there are a Phoenix. winter rock climbing, with about eight hundred few significant hiking areas. Papago Park, a municipal routes of different styles in the region. facility, offers up to a half-day’s steep hiking, even Also within the city limits is South Mountain Park scrambling. It has a few climbing routes on what looks and Preserve. This offers up to eighty kilometres of like horrible conglomerate rock, but gives extensive desert hiking where, just a few minutes from the views across the city and towards Camelback trailhead, the city suburbs are lost to view and one Mountain, which rises to 825m. can easily imagine the scene from a Western movie Named for the shape of its outline – which where a cowboy rides over a low ridge into a cactus- resembles a kneeling camel – Camelback offers a studded canyon before being ambushed by a number of substantial hikes and about sixty trad and gunslinger hidden behind boulders. ➤ sport rock routes on a sandstone conglomerate that has been described as ‘petrified mud.’ The proximity of Camelback Mountain to Phoenix city centre (it is about twenty minutes to downtown) means that it is a very popular hiking area, with well used and waymarked trails. However, the summit routes are not to be underestimated and rescue situations are fairly regular. A summer temperature that soars to well above 40°C is often a factor in such

➤ Kevin Higgins is a member of the Tyndall Mountain Club, based in Kilkenny. He has been hiking and climbing in Ireland and abroad for many years. He has a particular interest in the history and folklore of Irish mountains and mountaineers. Photographs: Highqueue (Sonoran Desert), Neepster (Camelback Mountain) (Camelback Neepster Desert), Highqueue (Sonoran Photographs: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 55 ARIZONA

Less than an hour’s drive to the northeast is the Above: Tom’s base stronghold of a branch of the Apache tribe, McDowell Mountain Range (McDowell Sonoran Thumb Trail in and stories of battles and massacres abound. A Preserve), the highest point of which is East End at the McDowell movie, Lust for Gold, starring Glen Ford, recounts the 1,240m. The range is a sacred marker to the native Mountains. story of the Lost Dutchman Mine, for which many people. It offers rugged and spectacular hiking on have searched in vain. about 350 kilometres of trails, as well as climbing on Below left: Desert hiking necessitates precautions, not least about 200 rock routes on the rough-grained desert Jumping cholla against the ubiquitous cactus. One variety of cholla granite formations. cactus. cactus is the jumping cholla cactus, named for its A destination for both hikers and climbers is Tom’s seeming ability to jump from place to place to Below right: Thumb. This is a prominent 43m plug of desert attack. Although not literally able to jump, it drops Approaching the granite that perches atop a ridgeline. It is visible for pieces and fragments very easily, if only lightly Superstitions. miles in all directions. Originally called ‘The Dork,’ it touched. was rechristened Tom’s Thumb in honour of climber Once, when I was only wearing sandals, it Tom Kreuser who made the first ascent in 1948. Its ‘jumped’ and a large piece attached itself to my summit cannot be achieved without some serious foot. Trying to remove it by hand means that the climbing. Just getting to it involves spectacular barbed spines grab on to one’s hands as well as hiking, and it makes an iconic destination and a one’s feet. ‘must’ on a climber’s tick list. Luckily for me, we were at the park entrance A couple of hours east of the city lie the where a helpful warden was nearby. “This will hurt,” Superstitions, a range of mountains steeped as were his words, as he took out a large, toothed, deeply in lore and stories as any Irish range. It was a comb-like instrument that enabled him to grip the Photos: Kevin Higgins (Tom’s Thumb Trail, Superstitions), El Cajon Yacht Club (cactus) Yacht El Cajon Superstitions), Trail, Thumb Higgins (Tom’s Kevin Photos:

56 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Photographs: Terrydarc (Cathedral Rock), Kevin Higgins (Granite Dells) Autumn 2020 Oak Creek Canyon, However, the rock houndiswell catered for innearby Rock, seems to have endlessclimbingpossibilities. park’s iconicfeature, the hugely impressive Cathedral includes rock climbing. This isunfortunate, as the Rock. surrounding the spectacular butte of nature preserve andenvironmental education centre aptly namedRed Rock State Park. also slightly outside the Sonoran Desert, lies the cactus varietiesavoid. to not within the Sonoran Desertregion, hasitsshare of in this hiddengem of rock formations that, although fingers. That isasmallprice to pay for aday exploring that even alittleeasy scrambling takes a toll on the skin-rending rock.’ The texture of the rock issocoarse that provide up to seven hundred climbingroutes ‘on formations of balancingboulders, towers andcliffs weathering of the granite hasproduced interesting the surrounding sandstone. The spheroidal small lakes among the extensive granite intrusions in dammed Granite Creek have backed up to form Granite Dells. is the vast fieldof granite formations known as the managing to avoid any further cactus massacres. Superstitions, not findingany lost gold minesbut were able to continue into the foothills of the blood-spattered foot. Despite this misadventure, we he removed the offending cactus, leaving mewitha spines of the plant. Ithurtalright, aswithasharp tug ON SKIN-RENDINGROCK. HUNDREDS OF CLIMBINGROUTES THE GRANITEDELLSPROVIDE The list of prohibited activities isalongoneand A littlefurther north, near the town of Sedona, North of Phoenixandclose to the town of Prescott This iswhere the waters of the regarded as the littlecousinof This isa286-acre Cathedral and Granite Dells. Below : The Cathedral Rock. impressive the hugely is prohibited on Above: Climbing of this region of the country… where cactus isking■ state flower of Arizona, and the plant isemblematic and canhold, literally, a ton of water. Itsflower is the of the desert, asitgrows up to about25m inheight desert hiking trail in the region. Inreality, itisa tree grows in the wild. Itisafeature of almost every Sonoran Desert, the only placein the world where it hiking. the surrounding National Forest It isalsopossible to continue outof the park into provide spectacular views of the striking landscape. trails give about10kmof easy hiking to points that routes onsandstone, limestone andbasalt. the Grand Canyon, where there isagreat variety of The iconicsaguaro cactus Without leaving the park, a variety of interlinked Irish Mountain Log is another native of the for more extensive 57 CLUB AND MEMBER SUPPORT

CLUB & MEMBER SUPPORT MEETING

Ruth Whelan, Mountaineering Ireland’s Hillwalking Development Officer, reports on the key topics discussed at the Mountaineering Ireland Club and Individual Member Support Meeting held online on July 2nd, 2020

e would like to say a use and that members must park symptoms on or after a walk, that special thank you to all responsibly at all times. It was also member must contact either the of the members who suggested to have a Plan B ready in HSE or the NHS. It is the HSE or the Wattended and engaged in case you cannot park at your first- NHS who will conduct the contact our Club and Individual Member choice location. tracing on behalf of the individual, Support Meeting on July 2nd, 2020. and not the club volunteers. This There were over ninety participants, • Guests on walks Some clubs raised information is available on both the with over fifty clubs represented. the question of allowing guests as Mountaineering Ireland and Sport part of the taster sessions. It is Ireland websites. important to limit your social circles KEY TOPICS right now, so it was suggested that CATEGORY 2 it may not be appropriate to expand Climbing topics CATEGORY 1 your club at the moment, while Covid-19 topics getting back up and running. It was Advice on sharing and cleaning also noted that Mountaineering • climbing gear There are three Car-pooling Car-pooling is deemed Ireland’s position for group size is options here: (1) give the equipment • to be incompatible with social that groups should preferably be of out to the club members to hold distancing. Members should avoid fewer than ten people, but certainly onto, or (2) allow 72 hours before car-pooling with people who are not no more than fifteen per walk. the equipment is used by another part of their household. There is no member, or (3) in line with the Contact tracing: Sport Ireland exemption for those engaging in manufacturer’s guidelines, wash • Declaration It was confirmed that outdoor recreation activities. with the correct type of soap, clubs need to keep a record (either detergent or warm water (as per the Car parking It is advised to arrive electronic or on paper) of those suggested temperature) and allow • early, at less busy times (e.g. during going on their walks, that all to dry before the next member uses mid-week) and at less popular members going on a walk must the equipment. destinations, in order to avail of the answer the three questions, and limited spaces in car parks. It was that clubs should retain this What is the best way to maintain noted that most car parks are information for four weeks. If a • social distancing measures when experiencing higher than normal member develops COVID-19 climbing? It was suggested to only Photograph: Chris Montgomery Photograph: 58 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 have a small number in your climbing group (e.g. four climbers) and to limit your social network or group of climbers, ideally to that same number of four people. CATEGORY 3 Access topics Do clubs still have access to • landowners’ land, and are there any restrictions due to Covid-19? It was suggested that members continue to be respectful to landowners, to park responsibly, to avoid farmyards and houses where possible, and to ensure group sizes are ideally of ten persons or fewer, but no more than fifteen. It was also noted that members must be When are the outdoor education was €0.44 per month per member mindful that most rural and upland • centres opening again? The and, over the period of three months, communities have not had many centres are currently starting to re- was €1.33 per member. The Board of people in their area since March and open, so it is advised to contact Mountaineering Ireland agreed to may be nervous if seeing groups of them directly or visit their individual retain this rebate as a contingency people returning, plus we all need to websites for more information. for loss of income due to the global be conscious of the concerns about pandemic and to allow for a new Is first aid and self-rescue revised year-end budget. It was also community transmission of Covid- • appropriate for our members to noted that the resources and costs 19. Access concerns at one location offer? This is a personal decision associated with the processing of in west Cork came to a head due to concerning whether or not you are each refund would be considerable. a group of more than twenty going comfortable to give first aid or through during the Covid period. administer self-rescue. Should Membership cards It was confirmed Dogs, litter We also recommend outside assistance be required, • that Mountaineering Ireland is • that dog owners only take dogs please call Mountain Rescue or the actively looking to replace the hard where they are permitted and that Coast Guard. This is a personal plastic ID cards for members with people be responsible for their own choice for each one of us to make, one that is more environmentally litter. and the usual PPE protocol of sustainable and cost-effective. It is wearing gloves should apply. planned to have the new cards • National Parks and Wildlife Additional PPE such as a mask and available for the new season of Service’s planning application for apron should be added to your 2020/2021 and they will be made developments, including parking first-aid kit. from recycled laminated cardboard. and walking trails, in Connemara It was also noted that the electronic National Park It was confirmed CATEGORY 5 membership card’s functionality will that Mountaineering Ireland has General members topics be incorporated into the new received feedback from a number membership database, currently of members and local clubs and will • Insurance cover There have been being developed, and submit observations on this no changes to our insurance policy will be there as an option if planning application, highlighting relating to the Covid-19 pandemic Mountaineering Ireland wishes to over the past number of months. points that are welcomed, but also avail of it in the future. some concerns about the Membership fees Our membership Club membership renewals It was proposals. • fees structure remains the same. • confirmed that Mountaineering New Individual Members can register Ireland, as part of its update and CATEGORY 4 at any time and club members’ development of its website, Training topics renewals commence for the period membership database and training from the 1st of November to 31st of When are Mountaineering Ireland database, will be allowing for bulk October on a twelve-month basis. • providers re-commencing their uploads of memberships from large New club members can register for training activities? There is clubs, all aimed at offering more the first time on the 1st of September currently a phased return of support to the end users, our club and avail of a special offer of 14 providers’ service on certain awards volunteers. months membership for the price of and schemes. So if you have 12 months. specific queries, please contact If you would like to discuss any topics either the training provider or Insurance rebate It was confirmed in more detail, please contact the Mountaineering Ireland for more • that the amount per member, relevant staff member or email information. agreed with our insurance provider, [email protected] ■ Photograph: Helen Lawless Photograph: Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 59 Training

On a descent in the Mournes

Written by Jane Carney, News for members Training Officer Jane Carney reports on training news and events run by the Training Office Forthcoming meets News for candidates,

■ Winter Meet 2021 providers and members The 2021 Winter Meet is planned for Inchree, Onich, ■ Scotland, February 13-20th, 2021 ■ Training Grant applications Please submit applications for the June-December period. ■ Summer Alpine Meet 2021 ■ Club Training Officers Online Workshops The 2021 Alpine Meet is planned for Saas Grund, Club officers have received invitations to attend online club training st ■ Switzerland, July 7-21 , 2021 sessions. Please book online for these free sessions and help to support, develop and refresh the skills in your club. Training awards and ■ Please see the National Guidelines for Climbing & Walking Leaders, and the Good Practice guidelines for Hillwalkers, available registration on the Training pages/Training Downloads on the Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. ■ Registrations are open and courses are running. ■ Please see the Walk Safely leaflet on the Mountaineering Ireland More than ever, we see people taking to the outdoors website. for recreation, relaxation, wellbeing, adventure and exploration. Providers and leaders are back delivering, ■ Please share the AdventureSmart message, and the three and the demand is high. questions to ask yourself before heading out to the hills and crags, Participants and candidates can now continue on with those less experienced than yourselves in the outdoors. their training pathways towards personal skills proficiency and/or qualification as leaders and ■ Please see the Covid-19 Guidance updates for the safe return to instructors. activity, on the Mountaineering Ireland website.

■ Work continues to facilitate an improved reporting ■ Good practice messages and registration system to support candidates, Thank you for providing those newer to the outdoors with positive trainers and the administration staff throughout the role models for responsible recreation, particularly in relation to taking training pathway. Screenshots from the home your litter, leaving no trace, camping responsibly, parking Mountaineering Ireland website can be very helpful to considerately, route selection, being properly equipped, checking the candidates and can clarify the distinction between a weather and learning the skills necessary for exploring the outdoors. scheme or an award, registration and/or joining the Please help by sharing the good practice messages and informing ■ ■

Photograph: Alun Richardson Photograph: Council, i.e. Mountaineering Ireland membership others about them 60 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Photograph: Jane Carney Autumn 2020 ■ or deleting any outstanding course reports. go-ahead to switch isgiven. A huge thank you to providers for completing Providers are to continue to use the existing reporting system until the training course reporting ■ and participants are completing pre-course questionnaires. indoor sessions. Protocols for equipment cleaninghave beenadopted to provide interactive classes, to helpremove or reduce the needfor hygiene andwear face coverings where necessary. verbalising the need to stay two metres apart, practice good hand and check our updating emails. Duringcourse delivery, trainers are Please see the latest guidanceon the Mountaineering Ireland website ■ delivery. additional aspects of risk assessment, decision-makingandcreative Our thanks again to the trainers, whoare superbly managing the safety checks, andrisk-assess withCovid-19 asanadditionalrisk factor. alert to the effects of this extended absence. Double-check, verbalise ■ develops. Training Officewillcontinue to monitor andupdate as the situation providers andcandidates as they return to businessand training. The cessation of work in the Covid-19 lockdown. We willcontinue to support like to thank allproviders for their cooperation andsupportduring the to delivery of the NGBawards, instruction ■ News for providers Officer,Carney, Jane those managingoutdoor course provision. Pleasecontact the Training arrangements for candidates andcourse requirements for trainers and Climbing inGlendalough Online platforms are beingusedfor briefings, preparatory sessionsand Please contact the Move to the MTUKICandidate Management System (CMS) for Protocols duringCovid-19 During the return to work, Iwould againremind trainers to beonhigh In late June and July, we were delighted to announceaphasedreturn Stay safe there! out for any further details, on01 6251112 Training Office to discuss thetransitionalto and leadership. I would again ■ • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Key dates 2020 Key dates 2021 guidance; onlineoptions willbeusedasalternatives where appropriate. Events mayonlyrun if permitted Please see the website for events andbookingsor 20 18 11 10 4 27 26-27 23-30 24 23 7-21 5-8 13-20 30-31 4 30 28-29 7 30 25 All events are basedon the latest government contact the -8 th th th th by the then current government guidance. th th th rd th th th th October December th th October st October October Sept September October September October Nov Oct-2 Nov March th July st th th th January February Sept Sept Nov nd Nov Training Office Please bookearly! Online ClubSupportMeeting Evening Online Winter Meet Information Saas Grund, Switzerland SummerMeet, Alpine Covid-19 guidancepermitting Train the Trainers,Mournes, 6-8pm Mountaineering Ireland AGM, National WalkingDay and Rock Climbing, Wicklow Teaching Navigation, Scrambling Skills/CPD Workshops: Online MTBIMeeting Online ClubSupportMeeting trail running hillwalking, climbingand celebrating women in 20 activities in20locations, European Week of Sport: Workshop, 7-9pm Online Club Training Officers Workshop, 7-9pm Online Club Training Officers Workshop, 7-9pm Online Club Training Officers Mountain Leader Assessment Winter Meet, Onich, Scotland Online MTUKIMeeting Workshop Online Senior Providers venue TBC Mountain Leader Assessment, Workshop, 7-9pm Online Club Training Officers permitting Wicklow, Covid-19 guidance Train the Trainerscourse, Irish Mountain Log , 7-8pm for further details. 61 Books

EastWest Mapping issues Connemara Mountains map

Mapping, comes the reasons for going with this new I particularly like Barry’s use of Connemara Mountains 1:25,000 name, but I’m not completely ground-condition symbols – scale map, available in paper convinced that now is the time notably for cliffs and crags – and print, water-resistant to revert to an almost 190-year- the contour intervals every five (encapsulated) and digital old name in favour of one that metres; these must have editions. has been in general use and presented a challenge for the As is the case in all of Barry accepted for the past thirty-five cartographer. Dalby’s publications, this is a years! Barry dedicates the new map very attractive, easy to read, Binn Idir an Dá Log has been to the late Tim and Mairéad fold-up map that will be a boon the accepted name for this Robinson and he acknowledges to anyone who walks regularly in peak on all of the maps of their work as one source of his th the Twelve Bens and the Connemara produced since at place names, along with 18 - and th Maumturks. It also covers the least 1988, i.e. Robinson’s, 19 -century print maps and Ben Choonas and most of the Harvey’s and OSI’s. All survey records, and the Schools Devilsmother/ guidebooks (including the newly Collection from the Heritage Council. CONNEMARA MOUNTAINS massif as well. published Irish Peaks) and walk This new map is a great 1:25,000 scale map I am looking forward to descriptions refer to it as such. EastWest Mapping, 25 Series (2020, resource, packed with useful referencing it as often as the Therefore, why change it now? 1st edition), €12.90 (paper version), snippets of information, and I superb Wild and Achill However, this is a minor quibble. €20.50 (encapsulated, water- highly recommend it. As Island maps that I have derived Taking into account that Barry resistant), ISBN 978-1-899815-51-7 someone who spends a lot of great pleasure from over the was still working on the time walking the hills of south past four or five years. publication of this map during Hot on the heels of the Galtee, Mayo, I look forward to the Comeragh and One of the first ‘new’ place the early months of the Covid- publication of EastWest (2019), and names that surprised me was 19 pandemic, the map is full of Mapping’s map of that area. Glendalough, Wicklow South Mulnahogue, replacing Binn Idir interesting sites of geological, and Wicklow South East (2018), an Dá Log. I queried this with historical and heritage interest. John O’Callaghan Member of Clare Achill & Corraun and Clare Island Barry and read his blog Local loop walks, mountain Outdoor Club and Mountaineering (2016) and Wild Nephin (2015) (https://eastwestmapping.ie/ biking and cycle trails are all Ireland, experience hillwalker and ‘25 Series’ maps from EastWest mulnahogue) outlining his symbolised and recorded. mountaineer, widely travelled

Guide to Tour du Mont Blanc suited to 21st-century travel habits

the past, the Irish hillwalker has detailed timings for the four pass. The nine variations are well been used to the traditional categories of mountain-goers detailed and clearly marked on ‘Alpine trek’ being served up in and has transposed them onto the map sections, which are neatly packaged days to be the route. The prospective taken from the 1:40,000 fitted into a fortnight’s summer TMBer decides which category companion map. holiday. In this informative they fall into, and how many This guidemap, printed on guidebook, Kingsley Jones, hours they wish to do each day, both sides, is full of essential award-winning writer, and uses the guidebook tables information, which is also in the mountaineer and guide, has to plan the full route. Then, the book. However, if you like to found a way to interest the relevant mountain huts, which spread your map out on the current wave of outdoor are all listed, can be booked. In table, this map is for you. It enthusiasts, who look at the addition, all other aspects of packs a lot in compared to your TOUR DU MONT BLANC mountains from different venturing onto the TMB are usual map, with the route perspectives. covered. By Kingsley Jones divided into five sections, Vertebrate Publishing (2020), 120pp, Are you a walker, a trekker, a So, off you go with this handy including timing points. Both many colour photos & maps, £16.95 fastpacker or a trail runner? guidebook in the sidepocket of guidebook and guidemap are (ppbk), ISBN 978-1-912560-72-1 Naismith’s Rule, which makes your rucksack. The waypoints published in a refreshingly new Also available as an E-book allowances for the distance to (instructions), all 165 of them, style, which suits this classic TOUR DU MONT BLANC be covered and the ascent to be are clear, precise and numbered. route, which attracts large Guidemap by Kingsley Jones made, is modernised here with There are also 34 timing points numbers each year from the Vertebrate Publishing (2020), 1:40,000, customised timings to become to help you plan your days, as wider mountaineering and £14.95, ISBN 978-1-912560-97-4. the Jones-Ross formula. The well as to check on how you are outdoor community. Includes essential information on the Jones-Ross formula is quite doing. TMB and GPX file downloads straightforward: Time = Between the waypoints, you Nicky Hore Member of Blayney (Distance/Flat Speed) + Adjustment will find information on Ramblers, hillwalker, trekker (or This is the Tour du Mont Blanc for ascent + Adjustment for descent, accommodation and brief notes maybe just a walker, using the (TMB) in the modern world. In but the author has worked out on places of interest that you Jones-Ross formula!) 62 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Photographs: Aidan Ennis (Reeks), Leslie Ashe (Mweelrea) on Ireland’s highest onehundred peaks Mountaineering Ireland’s new guide to routes Autumn 2020 details are alsogiven inaclear marked onit. Summary ascent 1:50,000 mapwith the route Irish and their meanings, anda photos, the placenamesin given someinspirational beginning of eachwalk. We are two-page spread at the are presented visually ina The key details of eachroute subjectivity outof the picture. which takes any selection hundred peaks inIreland, deals with the highest one routes selected, the book information. In terms of the cover. to cover is aquality publication from for allinvolved, and the result obviously beenalabour of love This beautifulbook has moremakesgrade. than the to be the yardstick, IrishPeaks ation andinspiration. If that is be acombination of inform- guidebook description should It hasbeensaid that a Let’s start with the Mweelrea, CoMayo appropriate quote to place in this country...,’ an Range as ‘…the very loneliest describing the NephinBeg Praeger’s TheWayI Went, That has anextended quote from for yourself.O’Callaghan John experience these wildplaces that gives you the urge to route descriptions inaway contributors enhance the to the mountains. Some fire, contemplating future trips many apleasant night by the simply stunning andwillfill photographs throughoutis quality andselection of this book shines. Firstly, the at the inspirational level that flora andfauna. environment, covering geology, sections onIreland’s upland concise andinteresting approach. There are also very that take amore anecdotal are purely directional to others contributors,from thosethat diversedue to thevariety of are well edited andstylistically The descriptions of the walks need toyou takewith you. will give you all the information photo of the relevant pages However, amobilephone sticking inarucksack. hardback, itisnot onefor parking andalternative routes. map references, available graphic style withrelevant However, inmy opinionitis As the book isalarge format the retreating glacier. almost feel the chillwindoff of Errigal, such that onecan geology into the description Wilson weaves the local most remote mountain. Peter climb , Ireland’s accompanydirections the to shore up to the early 20 that peoplelived down on the metres below. We are informed Creek, some300 precipitous range, onepassesover Sauce Masatiompan in the Brandon activities inIreland might not mountaineering and outdoor newer participants in was published in1982. Some edition of IrishPeaks, Lynam, who edited the original all adeserved homage to Joss some walk descriptions. also neatly interwoven into graphic style for allroutes and presented inabeautiful Such namesandmeaningsare (Backside to theWind). Gaoith Conversation) and Tóin le Cnoc nagCainte (Hillof thought or asmile, suchas places andcangive pausefor truly capture the essenceof for humanhabitation. contemplate suchalocation there alone to witnessand century. Itisworth the trip On the routeOn the to Finally, IrishPeaks The Irishplacenamesgiven Loughs Cummeenapeasta, CalleeandGouragh from the Reeks Ridge is most of which th (now Mountaineering Ireland) Mountaineering Councilof Ireland past Chairperson of the member of Limerick ClimbingClub, Mike Keyes book has to beon your shelf. uplands andwildplaces, this curious aboutIreland’s bookpublication. to put in to bring this excellent the huge amount of work she must alsobecommendedfor ofbook. this descriptions thatarebasis the many cats to gather the route and Alan Tees, thanks are due to Margaret part of hislegacy. he was aboutandwillform culmination of muchof what many ways, this book is the love for the hills, andhow, in standing of hisdedication and book willgive anunder- warm biography of Joss in this O’Sullivan’s passed away in2011. have heard of Joss, who If you love or are even Congratulations andmany

Irish Mountain Log

Buy now Buy

This is the book we book the is This

recommend most recommend

from our our from highly autumn 2020 autumn

Hillwalker andclimber, reviews excellent and published books. of somerecently presents reviews Peter O’Neill Literary Editor Helen Lawless who herded the Patrick 63 Books

One man’s favourite climb on each of seven continents

which matters when it comes Sherwood’s descriptive style wife has apparently agreed not to the best climbs. allows you to get to know him to read the book! and his various companions. Seven Climbs also pays Seven Climbs is Charles Indeed, you almost feel you homage to the mountain ranges Sherwood’s first book and are part of each expedition. and their inhabitants, who make describes his experience in Each climb is described in a it possible for international finding and conquering the manner that is both climbers to climb in those finest climbs across the seven technically interesting and ranges. We learn a lot about the continents. The selection is, of entertaining for all levels of high-altitude dwellers of Kenya, course, subjective, but, as we mountaineers and possibly the Cordillera Blanca and the learn, Sherwood’s climbing even non-mountaineers. For Himalaya. As a very tangible credentials span four decades example, the description of an gesture of gratitude, the and the most diverse earlier failed attempt to climb author’s gross proceeds will be landscapes across the globe. the North Face of Eiger had donated to the Himalayan Trust The seven climbs, therefore, me laughing out loud, while UK and its work in supporting the mountain people of Nepal. SEVEN CLIMBS: FINDING THE are a connoisseur’s selection, other challenges or ‘situations’ The book itself is beautifully FINEST CLIMBS ON EACH ranging from the well-known he describes had me on the produced and includes photos CONTINENT 1938 route on the North Face edge of my seat. We learn how of the Eiger in Switzerland, the tenacity and perseverance from each of the expeditions, as By Charles Sherwood well as sketches to illustrate the st through other popular routes developed on the wall have Vertebrate Publishing (2020, 1 edition), routes and pitches. I would 180pp plus 30pp of colour photos and on Ama Dablam, El Capitan, served Sherwood elsewhere in highly recommend this sketches of the routes, £14.95 (ppbk), Alpamayo, Mount Kenya and life. entertaining read. ISBN 978-1-912560-85-1 (book), ISBN Mount Cook, to the lesser There is also a deep respect 978-1-912560-86-8 (Ebook) known and lesser frequented for the pioneers of these Eleanor Byrne A hillwalker, who coast-to-coast traverse of the climbs, including those which enjoys trips to far-flung locations, Proof that it is indeed the Salvesen Range in South ended in tragedy. This is one of and an Individual Member of journey, and not the destination, Georgia. many reasons why Sherwood’s Mountaineering Ireland

Reprints of two classic books on historic climbing expeditions

KONGUR: CHINA’S 1981, given the remoteness of planning and organising climbs, in ELUSIVE SUMMIT the area. The book gives a this case making a reconnaissance By Chris Bonington great insight into the local and conducting two expeditions to Vertebrate Publishing (2020, reprint), people, their lives and the a remote mountain range in Tibet 210pp, £12.99, ISBN 978-1-912560-78-3 hospitality they showed. The in 1996-1998. The reader can book is based on personal almost feel the remoteness and TIBET’S SECRET MOUNTAIN: diaries and discussions with the associated problems in THE TRIUMPH OF SEPU KANGRI those involved. It shows the negotiating the hostile terrain. By Chris Bonington determination and mindset However, this is not a pure of the climbers during the climbing book, as only about 10% & Charles Clarke planning, reconnaissance and is about actual climbing. The rest is Vertebrate Publishing (2020, reprint), ascent of Kongur (7,649m). almost all Clarke’s input from his 218pp, £12.99, ISBN 978-1-912560-77-6 All does not go smoothly: personal diaries and experiences. descriptions of river crossing The descriptions of medical These are paperback reprints of and descent accidents show incidents are unique, showing how two classic titles by Sir Chris how close they come to remote and vulnerable they and Bonington, the recipient of the disaster. The book goes into the locals were. Rescue, in time of 2019 Lynam Medal. The first, some detail in describing the emergency, would have been Kongur: China’s Elusive Summit, medical research aspect of the impossible. is a typical Bonington climb, which will be of The books both make good ‘expedition’ book and gives very particular interest to climbers reading, even at this distance in detailed descriptions of the going to high altitudes. The time, but the inclusion of a map or people, places and climbing appendices are also even a sketch in both books would experiences encountered interesting, especially the ones have helped readers understand during the first ascent of that on health and equipment, and more clearly the locations of the mountain in China’s those on food. mountains. Uyghur Autonomous Region. The second book, Tibet’s It was fascinating to read Secret Mountain: The Triumph Denis Reidy An experienced about the work involved in an of Sepu Kangri, also tells of the mountaineer who has climbed in the undertaking like that back in trials and tribulations of Alps, Himalayas and Andes 64 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Photograph: .co.uk in 1977, shewrote: a drawer for over thirty years. reply from her publisher, itlay in following receipt of anegative Second Worldthe War,but, manuscript in the latter years of footsteps. Shewrote the and pleasure to tread inher us whohave had the privilege continues to enthral somany of The LivingMountain Grampians (1930) andA Pass in the Wood modernist novels, TheQuarry Education. years at College of in Englishfor the next forty-one University in1915andlectured degree from Aberdeen School for Girls, obtained a granite massif. east Scotland’s majestic Arctic Cairngorm Mountains –north- Cutts, withinafew milesof the her life in the village of North dedicated localist. Shelived all Africa, shewas essentially a widely inEurope andSouth Shepherd (1893-1981) travelled and college lecturer Nan While the Scots hillwalker, writer ISBN 978-0-857861-83-2 160pp (ppbk), £9.99, issue 2017, first published1977), Canongate Books (Canons imprint re- By NanShepherd Arguably the finest bookon the Cairngormsever written Autumn 2020 OF SCOTLAND CAIRNGORM MOUNTAINS A CELEBRATION OF THE THE LIVINGMOUNTAIN: ‘Now anoldwoman, Ibegin When Shepherd returned to it Nan Shepherd authored three She attended Aberdeen High (1928), TheWeatherhouse (1933). Yet, itisher that sensation: valley. Shedescribes the Monadhliaths, across the Spey the neighbouringrange of the from the slopesof GealCharnin she recommends viewing them their proportions andbearing,’ Cairngorms’ substance, ‘their lift, growth. the plateau’s bounty of summer from Africa to breed andfeed on small, colourfuldotterels fly in live uphere all year long, and and sedges. ptarmigans pink, itisblanketed inlichens campion –burst into brilliant when clumpsof Silence–moss covered insnow and, by June, expanse of the massive plateau. and deepdescents across the from oneanother by fissures tops are mere eddies, separated these mountains. The towering plateau is the true summitof 914m), sheasserts that the fifty-five Munro tops (each over 4,528 square kilometres boasts of Plateau.’Even thoughthe chapters, commencingwith ‘The just 108pages into twelve short ordered her slimmasterpiece of of the humansenses, she strength anditsfeasts for allfive the mountain’s substance, its knowledge.’ fervour isoneof the roads to clear; butlove pursued with traffic of love issufficiently as itwas then. That itwas a a mountain isas valid today ofthat thetale my trafficwith and, reading itagain, Irealise tidying outmypossessions To best appreciate the For half the year the plateau is To achieve her aimof revealing Cairngorms National Park myrtle, juniper andwild thyme – fragrances of pine, birch, bog name and taste are dreamlike. and the cloudberry, whose chiefly the blaeberry (bilberry) glorious flavours of wildberries, was gone.’ him, Icouldnot have known he that, hadInot beenwatching before meltingaway ‘so silently turned hishead to stare at her, landed onher tent poleand soft thud. A tawnyhad owl dawn. Sherecalls the soundof a mist or snow, or onaSeptember the silenceisalmost absolute in ear. Occasionally on the plateau, deployed, commencingwith the insists that allsensesmust be Senses,’ isarevelation. She rain lasheddown incessantly: its power whensnows melted or forded streams –butshefeared slap against her body asshe gleam, itsmusical sounds, its mountain’s water for itsflashing becomes amoving sea.’ reaching more level ground, uproots trees, andfinally, burrows, swamps nests, obliterates paths, floods boulders about, brawls, grooves in the soil, rolls the hillsides,down the deep tears ‘The water whichstreams again.’ to gobackandseeitallover come down, Iwant promptly juggler’s trick.Every I time itself...It enchants melike a panorama opposite settle into ‘One watches the high Similarly, the scents – The palate caningest the Her eleventh chapter, ‘The Shepherd loved the Like ‘white threads,’ ithas two must stand almost onits lip. loch you hidden witness to the Coire anLochain. To bear withdrawn and tranquil’ corrie, aside to the ‘incredibly (1,296m), who took her she met awalker onmighty making for the summits, until once hadbeenfixated upon Shepherd, too,admits thatshe and remotest of pinnacles. tales of conquering the highest ‘summititis,’ as they recount often imbuedwithasenseof have beenwritten by men, and sun-driedmudflats. in walking barefoot ongrasses tumbling streams. Sherejoiced of lichenand the blunt blow of and feathers, the scratchiness bark, the smoothness of stalks rough surfaces of conesand She usedher hands to feel the feel itswetness onher bare legs. walked through longheather to the musclesof her chinandshe stung her palate, frost stiffened intimate senseof all. Coldwater her memorable images. mountain cliffs are butafew of rainbow and the plunginglineof upwards to acrag, awavering birches, agolden eaglesailing formations, the bark of naked for Shepherd. The sight of cloud they are there to besmelled. mean nothing at allon the page; Officer, An Óige Hillwalkers’ Club Michael Quinn bookshops or online. modest sumin the best of libraries, or to purchase for a book isavailable to borrow from believe: plateau incircles, andcame to walker, grew to approach the below. Shecameaway awiser it, as the other drains itfrom brim of ahangingridge to feed cataracts: onefalls from the intention but to bewith him.’ visits afriendwithno with the mountain, asone have goneoutmerely to be nowhere inparticular, but no destination, whenIreach more completely whenIhave ‘The mountain gives itself Most mountaineering books However,mostwas touchthe The eye heldagreat potency Nan Shepherd’s sensuous Irish Mountain Log Environment 65 The Last Word Joe Brown Rock climbing great who made first ascent of Kangchenjunga

Downfall, having read about it in Colin Kirkus’ book Let’s Go Climbing. After leaving school, he trained as an apprentice plumber and builder. He was enlisted in 1949 and spent eighteen months in the Royal Army Ordnance Corp, where he seemingly spent his spare Blatière, which was one of the hardest time climbing with friends. single mountain pitches climbed at that Joe was a member of the Valkyrie time. Climbing Club and a founding member Joe contributed to the development of the Rock and Ice Climbing Club. In his of new types of climbing protection by book Hard Rock, Ken Wilson said that creating some of the first ‘nuts’ by Brown had ‘brought to climbing a rare drilling out the thread from nuts and combination of attributes: keenness, putting a sling through the centre. He patience, strength, technical ability, eye also helped to develop some important for a line, competitiveness and, above all, items of climbing gear, including the ‘JB’ a subtle and mysterious charisma.’ helmet and the Joe Brown rucksack. In Don Whillans was an early climbing 1966, Joe Brown opened his first shop in partner. Don lived in Salford, a Llanberis and subsequently opened two others in Snowdonia, including one at Joe Brown climbing on Gogarth, March 1970 neighbouring city to Manchester. They were among the first of a new breed of Capel Curig. Joe published his autobiography, The The pioneering British rock climber and post-war climbers from working class Hard Years, in 1967. Now a classic, it world-class mountaineer Joseph ‘Joe’ backgrounds, in contrast to the middle describes his many notable rock climbs Brown, CBE, died peacefully in his home to upper class backgrounds of the in the UK, as well his ascents of some of in Llanberis, North Wales, in mid-April at climbers who had led the sport of the toughest mountains in the world. the age of 89 years. He had been unwell climbing in the early days before World In 1957, Joe Brown married Valerie for some time. War II. Melville Gray and they had two Known as ‘The Human Fly,’ Joe Brown After the war, Joe pushed the standards daughters. He was awarded a CBE in put up many now classic routes in of British rock climbing to new heights, 2011 for services to rock climbing and Snowdonia and the Peak District in the often with his friend Don Whillans. In 1951, mountaineering. Joe died at his home in 1950s and ‘60s, at grades that were at the Joe made the first ascent of Cemetery Llanberis on April 15th, 2020. cutting edge of difficulty at that time. In Gates (E1) in the Llanberis Pass at Dinas Mountaineering Ireland offers its 1955, at 24 years of age, he made the first Cromlech with Whillans, and the following sincere condolences to Joe Brown’s ascent of Kangchenjunga with George year added the now classic test piece family and friends on their loss. Band, after overcoming some sections of Cenotaph Corner (E1) nearby. In the Peak May he rest in peace. what was then the hardest climbing done District, his test pieces included the Unconquerables, Elder Crack and Great at that altitude. At 8,586m in the eastern Patrick O’Sullivan Nepal Himalaya, Kangchenjunga is the Slab. th third highest mountain in the world. In the Alps, Joe climbed Fissure Brown Joe Brown: born September 26 1930; th The following year, Joe made the first on the West Face of the Aiguille de died April 15 , 2020 ascent of the west summit of the Muztagh Tower (7,276m) in the Karakorum with Ian McNaught-Davis. Unsurprisingly, perhaps, Joe Brown is considered by many authorities to have been the best British rock climber of the 20th century. Indeed, in a tribute to Joe, Sir Chris Bonington wrote “He was one of the most brilliant innovative climbers the world has seen and a very special human being.” Born in Manchester in 1930, Joe was the youngest of seven children. His father died when he was an infant and he was raised by his mother. As a teenager, he was expelled from the Scouts and started exploring the countryside, camping and climbing in the quarries. At the age of 16 years, he went climbing at Kinder Muztagh Tower in the , Photographs: John Clear/Mountain Camera Picture Library, (Joe Brown on Gogarth), Kogo/ Wikimedia Commons (Muztagh Tower) Wikimedia Commons (Muztagh Kogo/ on Gogarth), Brown (Joe Library, Picture Camera John Clear/Mountain Photographs: 66 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2020 Irish Peaks Competition The results Mountaineering Ireland continues to provide the book service previously operated by Joss The winner of our Lynam. We can supply you with guidebooks Irish Peaks and maps to almost any part of the world. Competition in the For the walker, there is a large collection of Summer 2020 issue Cicerone guides and books, or the wider of the Irish Mountain selection of books and guides distributed Log was John by Cordee which also includes many Sweeney, of climbing guides. Books reviewed in the Ballyshea, Irish Mountain Log can usually be Craughwell, purchased through Joss Books with a . members’ discount. To place an order, ring the Mountaineering Ireland office The correct answers to the competition were on (01) 6251115 or email Carrauntoohil, 1,038.6 metres. [email protected].

Our congratulations to John, who receives a copy of Mountaineering Ireland’s new Irish Peaks guidebook (see review, page 62).

Autumn 2020 Irish Mountain Log 67 Irish Peaks, Mountaineering Ireland’s new hillwalking guidebook, is now available for purchase through Mountaineering Ireland’s website. It is a must-have, large format hardback with route descriptions and a beautiful collection of images covering the hundred highest peaks on the island of Ireland. The book can be ordered at: www.mountaineering.ie/shop.

In his review of Irish Peaks in this issue of the Irish Mountain Log, Mike Keyes, past Chairperson of the Mountaineering Council of Ireland (now Mountaineering Ireland) says: “If you love or are even curious about Ireland’s uplands and wild places, this book has to be on your shelf.”

Irish Peaks has been produced in memory of Joss Lynam, who died in 2011 and who made a significant contribution to the development of hillwalking and climbing in Ireland. Joss edited the original Irish Peaks that was published in 1982. This new book contains descriptions contributed by Mountaineering Ireland members of more than seventy routes taking in the summits on the MountainViews list of Ireland’s Highest Hundred Mountains.

The recommended retail price for Irish Peaks is €25.99. However, there is a special 15% discount for all Mountaineering Ireland members who order the book through the Mountaineering Ireland shop, which means you pay €22.10, plus postage if it has to be posted out to you. To order your discounted copy, please visit www.mountaineering.ie/shop.