March 26, 1929. T. ROBERTs 1,706,633 MACHINE ATTACHMENT Filed Jan. 27, 1926

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NSE NS Patented Mar. 26, 1929. 1,706,633 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE. THOMAS ROBERTS, OF HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF To JOSEPH. E. DUBE, OF HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS. sEWING-MACHINE ATTACHMENT. Application filed January 27, 1926. Serial No. 84,062. This invention relates to certain improve tical means for assembling and stitching on ments in means for finishing the edges of the cord and galloon at one operation, it has shoe uppers in the manner disclosed by the been the universal practice to assemble the U. S. patent to Daniels it 1,400,806, dated cord and galloon previous to the attachment 3 Dec. 20th, 1921. thereof to the upper. This has been done by In performing the process disclosed in said folding galloon, or a narrow strip of 60 patent, a galloon is folded about a cord and material, over a cord and adhesively connect stitched to the outer side of the shoe upper ing the opposite portions thereof, and it has near its edge and between the cord and the been the practice for the galloon dealer to 10 edge, after which the edge portion of the up furnish the manufacturer with the galloon per is folded onto its inner side, so that the thus prepared. As rubber cement, when used cord-containing portion of the galloon is held as an adhesive for this purpose, would be ob on the folded over edge of the upper, and the jectionable, as likely to interfere with the upper has a corded edge when finished, and Operation of the needle, a ls is known as a “French-cord' edge. Said pat paste form of adhesive has been generally ent discloses, as alternative methods, the as employed. In practice much difficulty has 70 sembling of the galloon and cord by folding been encountered with the pasted galloon, the galloon about the cord and securing its for the reason that the paste is liable to lose opposite portions together close to the cord, its adhesive qualities, particularly if kept in 20 as a preliminary to the operation of stitching stock for too long a time, so that the folds of the galloon to the upper, and the assembling the galloon become separated and the cord of the galloon and cord in this manner, at the misplaced in consequence, making it practi time of stitching the same to the upper. cally impossible to attach it. Also, the paste The method last referred to has been consid tends to make the galloon stiff, and this stiff 25 ered advantageous over the other method, ness is likely to increase with time. On ac primarily because it dispenses with the oper count of this stiffness, difficulty has been en SO ation of assembling the cord and galloon be-, countered in connection with the so-called fore they are stitched to the upper, but, not turning operation, in which the galloon, after only was the means disclosed in said patent, it has been stitched onto the outer side of the for assembling the cord and galloon at the leather, is turned in onto the inner side there time they are stitched to the upper, been of. This difficulty is encountered most fre found to be impractical, but, prior to my in quently in connection with patent leather, vention, no practical means, so far as I am and on account of the stiffness of the galloon aware, have been devised which enabled the an undue strain is placed on the leather at the cord and galloon to be assembled and stitched point when they are stitched together, so that to the upper by One operation, and in a man the surface of the leather is frequently 90 ner which produced satisfactory results. cracked close to the line of stitches. One of the essentials to satisfactory results On account of the fact that the corded gal in the performance of the process, is that the loon is prepared for a special purpose, it is 40 galloon be drawn tightly about the cord and impractical for the galloon manufacturer to that it be secured in this position by stitches, prepare it in all the available shades, weights and it is in this important particular that and qualities, so that the choice of the shoe prior means for performing the operation of manufacturer of galloons available for the assembling and stitching on at one time have purpose is considerably restricted, and he is 45 failed, for, with a guiding means of the char often unable to use the particular galloon acter illustrated in Said patent, it is practi which he desires to use, for this this reason. 100 cally impossible for the operator so to guide Furthermore, upper leather is likely to vary the cord and galloon that the cord will be held in thickness, and in order that satisfactory firmly against the bottom of the fold in the work may be performed, the thickness of the 50 galloon and the latter will be drawn tightly cord and galloon should correspond to the over the cord and its folds secured together thickness of the upper. While this corre 105 close to the same by the stitches which at spondence may be secured by varying the size . . tach the galloon to the upper. of the cord according to required conditions, As a result of the failure to produce a prac it has been considered impractical for the 2. 1,706,633 dealei in corded galloons to provide the same As the device which embodies the invention with cords of different size. comprises a form of attachment adapted for These, and other objections to the prepared use in connection with a common form of galloon may be avoided by providing a prac upper stitching machine, preferably of the 5 tical means for assembling any galloon and cylinder type, it is considered unnecessary to cord and Stitching them to the upper by one illustrate the saiae, except by indicating the G operation, so that the shoe manufacturer may inachine parts directly associated there with, then employ any galloon and cord which is which coin prise the tible T, the needle N of availabie. the Sewing mechanisin and the edge guide G. O in performing the process of said Daniels According to my invention provide an patent, it has been found practically necessary attachment, which comprises a bracket a, to cement the galleon to the inne!" side of the adapted to be mounted on a fixed part of the upper when the turning operation is per sewing machine, not shown, beneath the level formed. So that the operation of Sewing on Of the work supporting surface of the table the will be facilitated. When the gai T, and having a fiat arm (t" formed integrally loon having its fold(is cemented togethe' is there with and extending horizontally adja employed, it is merely necessary to apply co cent the level of Said surface. A guide plate inent to one of these folds, but if the cord and b is secured on the aim a' by means of screws galloon were assenbied at the time they were C and projects horizonially therefrom in stitched to the upper by the method disclosed transverse relation to the direction of feed S5 in said Daniels pateni, a double cementing Of the machine, and said guide plate is pro operation would be necessary to cement both Vided with an end portion having a semi folds of the galloon to the inner side of the cylindrically formed face (), which extends upper. from the fi'ont edge of said plate to an inter The objects of my invention are primarily, Yediate point therein, in the direction of the 90 iO provide eans, adapted for use in connec feed, and a bore or cord passage () is formed tion with a known type of sewing machine. in Said portion which extends in concentric which will fold the galloon about a cord and relation to the face. Said plate () is pro hild the cord Securely against the boitor of vided With approximately horizontal faces 3) the old, whiie the stitches are passed through t", ) on its upper and under sides respec the folded portions of the gallen in clo: tively, said faces extending continuously with Di'0Nimity to the cord, and through the shoe the face b" and terminating in vertical guide uppet', to attach the galloon thereio, so that shoulders b, b", which extend the entire width the galloon will be drawn tightly about the Of the plate (). It is to be particularly noted cord and secured in this position. in this connection that the width of the up OO Other objects of my invention are to pro permost face b, or the distance from the mid vide an attachment which will fold the gal tile of the edge face () to the shoulder b, loon accurately, and in Such a mainer, that it, is stilbstantially less than that of face b, will be so attached to the upper that when or the corresponding distance to shoulder the edge portion of the upper is folded onto t", for reasons to be explained. A J-shaped i: its inner sile, both folds of the galloon may sheet metal casing e is exte:nded about the be cemented to the inner surface by a single entire end polition of plate b so as to enclose ceinenting operation. the faces (), (), () thereof, said casing being

I accomplish these and other objects of tiny held out of contact with said faces and having invention in the mainer hereinafter described its opposite portions permanently connected and illustrated in the accompanying drawing to the upper and under sides respectively in which : of the plate b, the inner surface of the casing Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a sewing e being disposed in parallel relation to, and machine attachment embodying a preferred at such a distance from the faces b', b8, b, 50 form of my invention and slowing the parts that a U-shaped guiding passage g is formed 5 in position of tise. therebetween, which is adapted to receive Fig. 2 is a plan view of the attachment, part the galloon p and hold it in folded position ly in horizontal section. as it is drawn therethrough, the guide shoul Fig. 3 is a sectional view at line 3-3 of del's (), l' being a ranged to engage the edges 5 5 thereof, as it is fed, so that the galloon will Figs. 4 and 5 are sectional views at lines be folded along a longitudinal line adjacent 4-4 and 5-5 respectively of Fig. 2. but at One side of its middle and the fold Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail sectional view which engages the lower shoulder l' will be at line 5-5 of Fig. 2. wide than the other fold. 60 Fig. 7 is a sectional view at line 7-7 of The front edge portion of the plate b is pro Fig. 2. vided with an integral projection d, through Fig. 8 is a view of a section of the work which a tubular passage d is formed, of the after attaching and before folding, and same size as the passage l', and at right an Fig. 9 is a section thereof after cementing gles theleto, the arrangement being such that and folding. a cord O may be drawn through the passage 1,706,633 3. d and thence through the passage b° be loon and cord through the attachment as it tween the folds of the galloon p, which is feeds the leather, so that they will be stitched being drawn through the passage g. together by a row of stitchess which will pass The end edge of the guide plate b is formed thru the folds of the galloon close to the side to provide a cord-guiding face b", which ex of the cord opposite the bottom of the fold 70 tends from the delivery end of the passage in the galloon. (), at the opposite side thereof from the face It is to be particularly noted that the rela l, in a direction which is slightly oblique to tive arrangement of the leather guide a in the direction of Said passage, and partly the galloon guide is such that the galloon will across the same, in slightly convergent re be attached to the side of the leather 10 lation to the adjacent concave surface of the in such a position that both folds of the gal casinge, and then in parallel relation thereto, loon will project beyond the edge of the and practically in line with the line of leather and the narrower fold will lie next the stitches which will be formed in the galloon, grain surface of the leather, as shown in Fig. as it is delivered to the sewing mechanism, S. This is of vital importance for the foi 80. indicated by the needle N, the plate b and lowing reasons: In the subsequent operation casinge being so supported that the delivery of finishing the edge of the leather, the edge end of the face b will be in close proximity portion thereof is folded inward along such to the needle, and the delivery end of the a line that the cord containing portion of the lower portion of the U-shaped passage g will galloon is held on the edge or top of the fold be at the level of the surface of table T. The thus formed. It has been found to be prac casing e tapers somewhat from its entrance tically necessary to cement the inturned edges to its discharge end, as shown in Fig. 7, so of the leather and galloon to the inner side that the U-shaped passage g therethru taper's of the leather before the lining is sewed on, correspondingly, the faces b”, b also being consequently, a coating of rubber cement is 90 formed to converge slightly from the front applied to the flesh side of the edge portion to the rear end of face b'. The rear portion of the leather, and, at the same time, to the of the face b7 is so formed with reference to portion of the narrower fold of the galloon the adjacent concave inner surface of casing which projects beyond the skived edge of the e, or passage 9, that the distance from said leather, and the portion of the wider fold of face to said surface will correspond to the the galloon which extends beyond the edge diameter of the cord plus the thickness of the of the narrower fold thereof. As a result, galloon employed. That is the face b is held when the folding operating is performed, the in sufficiently close proximity to the concave edge portion of the leather will be folded face of casing e to press the cord firmly against its inner side, and adhesively coil 100 against the bottom of the fold in the galloon nected thereto, and the edge portions of the and thereby hold the latter firmly against galloon, to which the cement was applied, said concave face, as the galloon and cord are will also be folded against the inner side of the leather beyond its skived edge, as indi drawn thru- passageg, without causing undue 105 fiction thereon...... , cated in Fig. 9, so that all of these parts will 40 With the above described construction, be cemented in the position into which they therefore, the cord and galloon having been are folded. It is to be noted, however, that placed in the relative position already de it is not essential that the edge portion of scribed within the attachment, as they are the narrower fold of the galloon project be drawn therethru, the galloon will be folded yond the edge of the leather, so that cement 110 45 longitudinally along a line adjacent, but at will be applied thereto when the edge portion one side of its middle and the cord will be of the leather is cemented as it will be suf delivered between the folds of the galloon ficient if the wider fold only projects beyond and pressed against the galloon at the line the edge of the leather, for the reason that if of the fold therein, which may be conven the edge portion of the wider fold adheres 15 iently termed the bottom of the fold. to the innerside of the leather, when the fold In performing the operation of attaching ing operation is performed, it will hold the the galloon and cord, as thus assembled, to narrower fold flat against the leather. a piece of upper leather q, as indicated in Fig. With the above described attachment the 1, the leather piece, the edge portion of which cord and galloon will be positively guided, 120 will have been skived on its flesh side, will be so that they will be assembled in the required placed on the table, flesh side up, with its relation and attached to the upper in the re edge portion resting on the casinge and its quired position at one operation, which may edge held against the edge guide G. The be performed as rapidly as if the cord and folded gailloon, with the cord therein, will galloon had been previously assembled, all 125 be drawn from the passage g, so that they tie the previously mentioned disadvantages of . on the table beneath the leather, and the latter the prepared galloon being thereby avoided. will be pressed firmly on the galloon by the I claim: usual , not shown. The feeding 1. A sewing machine attachment for the mechanism of the machine will draw the gal purposes. described, comprising a casing 30 4. 1,706,633 having a passage arranged to extend there ing a galloon receiving passage extending through in the direction of the feed of the therefirought in the direction of the sewing inachine, a guide ai'i'anged to extend into said machine feed, a guide plate arranged to ex passage from one side thereof to divide the tend it to said passage from one side thereof 5 Sailine into opposite portions and an interine and having an end face disposed adjacent diate connecting polition, to perihit a galloon the opposite side of said passage, to provide to be folded lengthwise in -form about said a t-shaped passage thirtl which the galloon 5 5 guide as it, is du'awii thirough said passage, is drawn, guiding faces at each side of said said ?uicle having a cord receiving passage piate extending from the front to the rear end therein arranged to extend in the direction of of said passage and arranged to engage the said easing passage and opening thereto in (edges of he galloon and hold it in position position to deliver a cord between the folds in the passage, Said glide plate having a cord 60 of the gallegin at ticiposon of the fold there 'eceiving bore ::fending from the front edge ii, and cord-guiding leans disposed it said thereof and opei ing to said passage at the casing passage and terraina iiiig at the de in he end of said face, and a guide in said liveityy end 'i'eof, said ineans having a guid 2e extending from the inner end of said ing face ari'anged to engage the cord, as it bO . &o the lear end of the passage and ar S drawn from the delivery eid of said cord !'araged to engage the cord as it is drawn from receiving passage, and press saille against said bore and hold it against the bottom of the bottom of the fold in the gailloon and the the fold in the galloon and hold the latter latter::, £8,against the adjacent side of the casing against Said side of the passage as they emerge passage at its delivery end, to permit the frch the passage. 70 folds of the galloon to be stitched together 4. A sewing machine attachment for the se to the cord, while thus held, in close purposes described, comprising a casing hav proximity to the delivery end of the casing ing a galloon receiving passage extending D:SSage. tl:ei'eti rough, in the direction of the sewing 2. A sewing inachine attachment for the hachine feed, a guide plate ari'anged to ex 75 purposes described, comprising a casing hav tead into said passage from one side thereof ing a J-shaped passage adapted to extend and having an end face disposed adjacent in the direction of the sewing machine feed the opposite side of said passage, extending and to receive a galloon and fold the same ad for a portion of the length thereof, and about jace it its niddle portion as it is drawn there which the galloon will be folded as it is drawn 80 though anti delivered to the sewing mecha the 'ethrough, said guide plate having a bore anish, a tubular guide located between the adapted to receive a cord, and extending 3 5 Opposite politions of said passage and tel therethrough in proximity to said end face listing at its rear end adjacent the inter mediate portion of the passage, and cord &ild opening at its rear end to Said passage, in guiding heans in said passage extending fron ofposition the galloon, to deliver and the supplementalcord between theguiding folds the rear end of said tibilar guide to the rear linea as disposed in Said passage and having eiti of the passage and having a guiding face a face arranged to engage the cord as it is arisinged to extend convergently with the cl!'a Yin fion said bore and to deflect it against Surface of the intei'Baediate portion of said the bottom of the fold in the galloon and hold 90 passage at its 'ear end, to hold the cord the latter against the side of said passage as agains; the botton of the fold in the galloon it is delivered to the sewing mechanism. 4. 5 its the galloon is delivered to the sewing mech in testimony whereof, I have signed my anism. name to this specification. 3. A sewing machine attachment for the purposes described, comprising a casing hav THOMAS ROBERTS.