JOURNEY TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH
OS67_01 Cover.indd 1 8/23/16 10:52 AM armanibeauty.com
#POWERWITHIN available on board
N11504_DP_ADGH_PROFUMO_OPEN_SKIES_390x260_JULY16.indd 1 13/06/2016 09:56 N11504_DP_ADGH_PROFUMO_OPEN_SKIES_390x260_JULY16.indd 2 13/06/2016 09:56 UNCOMPROMISING PERFECTION. GENESIS
İstinyePark Emirates Open Skies İlan.indd 8 12.08.2016 14:54 İstinyePark Emirates Open Skies İlan.indd 9 12.08.2016 14:54 MR_PAN_OpenSkyes_390x260_030_sep2016_D1.indd 1 24/06/16 12:25 MR_PAN_OpenSkyes_390x260_030_sep2016_D1.indd 2 24/06/16 12:24 Editor-in-ChiEf Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor Ian Fairservice EditoriaL dirECtor Gina Johnson [email protected] grouP Editor Mark Evans [email protected] SEnior Editor Andrew Nagy [email protected] SEnior digitaL / Print dESignEr Roui Francisco [email protected] digitaL aniMator Surajit Dutta [email protected] VidEo Editor Donnie Miguel [email protected] Sub Editor Salil Kumar [email protected] EditoriaL aSSiStant Londresa Flores [email protected]
ContributorS Andrew Birbeck, Geoff Brokate, Gemma Correll, Sarah Freeman, Mark Johanson, Jamie Knights, Kaye Martindale, Adrian Mourby, Sandra Tinari, Stuart Turton Cover: Alexander Wells (folioart.co.uk)
ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr gEnEraL Anthony Milne [email protected] ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar PubLiShEr grouP SaLES dEPuty SaLES SEnior SaLES Jaya Balakrishnan ManagEr ManagEr ManagEr ProduCtion [email protected] intErnationaL Amar Kamath Shruti Srivastava ManagEr Michael Underdown [email protected] shruti.srivastava@ R Murali Krishnan [email protected] motivate.ae
EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com
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Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
114,149 copies Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE July – December 2015 Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: [email protected] Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
OS67_10 Flannel.indd 10 8/23/16 1:54 PM EDITOR’S LETTER
ANDREW NAGY ON THE COVER SENIOR EDITOR
can’t work out whether social media groups that have sprung up in its wake has revolutionised travel or ruined are in something of a disagreement as I it. On the one hand, you could say to what constitutes success. For some that the desire for the ultimate selfie has it’s simply getting through customs; for taken people out of their comfort zone others, a little more, but what’s really and to far-flung corners of the globe. On frowned upon is going just for the the other hand: smug Instagram feeds. passport stamp; heading somewhere In the space of 20 years, our options only to add another country to your list. have exceeded all imagination and a There are a number of different fortnight on the beach just doesn’t cut governing bodies at present and, it. Now, unless you’re prefixing almost depending on the criteria, you can every holiday update with: ‘trekking potentially find yourself top of one list, up…’ ‘skiing down…’ or ‘jumping off…’ but only fifth on another. It’s a source of JOURNEY TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH “OUR TRAVEL OPTIONS HAVE EXCEEDED In depicting the extreme nature of the ALL IMAGINATION, AND A FORTNIGHT ON die hard travellers, we felt that the style of Alexander Wells at folioart.co.uk THE BEACH JUST DOESN’T CUT IT.” worked perfectly. It’s a style you may also have seen on the pages of Esquire, it all appears a little tame. Modern day constant needle and irritation, and that’s ESPN, Wired, The New York Times and attention spans aren’t built for comfort. exactly what makes it so much fun. many more. Affordable flights and the advent of As you’ll find, however, at the root long haul have helped of course, and of it all is friendly competition and some truly amazing opportunities are camaraderie. These travellers will always out there if you’re willing to look hard be on hand to help one another when enough, but at what point is it less the chips are down, whether that’s with about expanding your horizons, and a drink in some forgotten land, advice more about vanity? That’s the question on how to obtain an unobtainable visa, levelled at some of the men and women or news on how to find the island that currently vying to become known as the 80 per cent of the planet doesn’t even most travelled person on Earth – and it’s know exists. our cover story for September. Now, that, is Instagram-worthy travel. About 20 years ago, Guinness dispensed with the official title, and the Enjoy the issue. NOW AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD
facebook.com/ twitter.com/ instagram.com/ openskiesmagazine openskiesmag openskiesmag
LOOK OUT FOR THIS ICON ON EACH STORY IN OPEN SKIES FOR AN INSIGHT INTO THE WORLD OF EMIRATES
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OS67_11 Editor's Letter.indd 11 8/23/16 1:56 PM GLAMOUR YAS MALL FASHION WEEK 12-15 OCTOBER 2016 TOWN SQUARE Yas Mall, where it’s all happening CONTENTS
FRONT 18 20 23 28 36
Experience Flashback Lunch With Stay Neighbourhood 43 46
Local Knowledge Entrepreneur
MAIN 50 56 64 Newmarket Journey To The Emirates Cenrte Of The Earth Litfest
BRIEFING 72 77 80 82 84
Emirates News Inside Emirates Destination Comfort Customs & Visa Information 88 90 96 98
UAE Smart Gate Route Map Emirates Fleet Knowledge
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OS67_013 Contents.indd 13 8/23/16 1:56 PM CONTRIBUTORS
SEPTEMBER
Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies
ANDREW GEMMA SARAH MARK BIRBECK CORRELL FREEMAN JOHANSON
Andrew is an Edinburgh-born Gemma is a self-confessed Sarah is a freelance Mark is an American writer author, writer and blogger writer, illustrator and small photojournalist from the who contributes to a number who contributes to a person. The author of books UK specialising in travel and of international publications broad range of titles. A including A Cat’s Guide To wellness. This month she from his home in Santiago, regular in Open Skies, this Life and A Pug’s Guide To travels to Amsterdam Noord Chile. This month he meets the month he speaks to Sol Etiquette, she draws the in search of new adventures. men and women vying for the Rogers at Rewind. A man Skycat’s illustration every title of ‘world’s most travelled’. changing our very perception month in Open Skies. “There’s nothing better of the world we live in. than discovering a new “I think of myself as a “When I draw Skycats, place in a familiar city. well-travelled person, “It’s simple. Sol Rogers I think about what Entrepreneurial, eco- but speaking to these loves what he does and is cats might do in minded and energetic, competitive travellers incredibly good at it. He certain situations. I Amsterdam Noord is the made me realise that, sees Virtual Reality (VR) love imagining what reason I didn’t make it to beyond the traditional not just as a marketing or might happen if they the Rijksmuseum (or the tourist destinations, entertainment tool, but were passengers on an other side of the river for there is a vast portion of as a genuine force for Emirates plane (and if that matter) on my latest our world that’s largely good in the world.” they could talk).” visit there.” unexplored.”
KAYE ADRIAN SANDRA STUART MARTINDALE MOURBY TINARI TURTON
Kaye is a semi-nomadic writer Adrian has pubished three Sandra is an Australian Stuart is a freelance journalist currently based in Yorkshire’s novels, two travel guides and freelance journalist and specialising in travel and beautiful Calder Valley. a book of humour based on photographer, based in Dubai, technology. He spends a lot An Open Skies regular, this his Sony-award-winning BBC and a regular contributor to of time going in the wrong month she spoke to British series Whatever Happened Open Skies. This month she direction, grumbling at Perfume queen, Jo Malone, and To...? His new book, Rooms Of writes on Last Exit, a stop-off smartphones and trying to discovered more than your One’s Own, is out in May 2017. on the Sheikh Zayed Road remember where he left his usual story of success. This month he writes on the that will leave you anything house keys. This month he beauty of Newmarket. but hungry. writes on The Emirates Airline “It’s always interesting Festival of Literature. to meet people who are “Never having attended “Eccentric and bright... leaders in their field and a racecourse meant Last Exit’s pop culture “Imagine 40,000 people see what makes them that Newmarket was a take on 1950s Americana talking about your tick. Jo Malone is a fascinating experience. was a surprising find favourite book. Then put savvy business woman Make no mistake, horses in the desert, creating the author of that book with an inspirational are Newmarket. It’s a charming roadhouse at the centre of it, ready story of how she made it unlike any other English that’s a playground for to answer questions. to the top.” town you’ll visit.” foodies. Absolute bliss.”
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Battle of the sexes 20
Lunch With Stay Neighbourhood 23 28 35 FRONT
OS67_017 Experience.indd 17 8/23/16 3:36 PM ExpE riE ncE
september 10-11 ultra music festival singapore
Hype editor lesley WrigHt on why pEoplE will hEAd to SinGAporE in thEir drovES for thE world’S biGGESt indEpEndEnt ElEctronic MuSic fEStivAl
When a 20-year-old Russell Faibisch the festival returns this month as a full- Frenchman DJ Snake and the UK’s Nero staged the first Ultra Music Festival blown two-day experience on September (live) amongst the headliners. Norwegian on Miami’s South Beach in 1999, he 10 and 11. producer Kygo, who had already notched was relieved and thrilled when 10,000 Set up at the new Ultra Park venue, up a billion Spotify streams before his electronic music fans turned up to dance right across from the Marina Bay Sands debut album Cloud Nine was released, will in the sand. hotel, it’ll provide spectacular views of the also make his Ultra debut in Singapore. He could never have imagined that his downtown skyline and sweeping vistas of More discerning music fans should head festival would grow into the behemoth the world-famous Marina Bay. As well as to the Resistance stage where they’ll find that it is today, with 750,000 people the huge main stage, festival-goers will also the likes of Far East Movement – the first attending Ultra events around the world. be able to flit between Ultra’s live stage Asian/American hip-hop group to score The world’s biggest and most and the Resistance stage, a haven for those a No.1 hit in the Billboard charts, and successful remaining independent who like “the darker side of dance music”. Nigerian-Lebanese DJ, producer and Mood electronic music festival brand, Faibisch’s Like all Ultra events around the world, Records label boss, Nicole Moudaber, juggernaut shows no sign of slowing it’s not short on big names with Canadian whose thundering sets have earned her down. After a test-the-water one-day Deadmau5, Dutch DJ Afrojack, Swedish the name ‘The Queen Of Techno’. Road To Ultra event in Singapore in 2015, powerhouses Axwell and Ingrosso, ultrasingapore.com
Emirates operates four flights a day to Singapore, including a twice daily A380 service. iMAGE: GE tty
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OS67_017 Experience.indd 18 8/23/16 3:36 PM Moment
The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.
MAURITIUS REUNION MALDIVES CHINA U.A.E TURKEY VIETNAM | LUXRESORTS.COM
LUX_AD_Emirates_September 16Issue.indd 1 8/4/16 11:22 AM FLASHBACK
BATTLE OF THE SEXES
IN SEPTEMBER 1973, BILLIE JEAN KING PLAYED BOBBY RIGGS IN ONE OF THE MOST WATCHED TENNIS MATCHES OF ALL TIME, STRIKING A BLOW FOR FEMINISM IN THE PROCESS
“Number one, women should stay in the bedroom, number two, they should stay in the kitchen, number three, support the man!” It’s difficult to believe these words came out of a tennis player’s mouth, but in 1973 STATE OF PLAY they were part of a barrage being pelted at the women’s game by Bobby Riggs. A former World No 1, Riggs was outspoken, narcissistic and a hustler who reportedly had THE WORLD’S TOP PLAYERS IN links to the mob. NEW YORK THIS MONTH He was also heavily in debt. No matter, because Riggs had a plan. After weeks of The US Open might have started at claiming he could beat any female player, he issued a formal challenge to Billie Jean King – the tail end of last month, but the business end is firmly in September. World No 2. She refused, allowing World No 1 Margaret Court to step in. If you’re in New York City head to The match was dubbed “The Battle Of The Sexes” and was a trainwreck. Riggs the Billie Jean King National Tennis was 55 and had been retired for several years, but he was a master psychological Academy for the women’s final on manipulator, and relentlessly taunted the 30-year-old Court before the match, scoring an the 10th, and the men’s on the 11th. usopen.org impressive victory on the day. As a feminist and a poster girl for the Women’s Lib movement, Billie Jean King felt she had to tackle Riggs. After training ferociously, she took him on in front of 30,000 people at the Houston Astrodome – with a reported 90 million tuning in on TV worldwide. If anything, the second Battle Of The Sexes match was even more ridiculous than the first. A $100,000 prize was up for grabs, and Riggs was paid $50,000 to play in a bright yellow jacket advertising a candy bar. King entered the court held aloft by gladiators, while Riggs sauntered in with scantily clad models. After a couple of shaky games, King took control, annihilating Riggs 6-4, 6-3, 6-3, without ever really playing at her best. By refusing a rematch, she ensured Riggs’ time in the limelight was over, and paved the way for the modern woman’s game – including the introduction of equal prize money. Love tennis? Check out ice Digital Widescreen this month for the documentary Serena on channel 1234, ATP Tour Uncovered on channel 1202 and highlights from the Australian Open on channel 1204.
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Lunch with
Jo Malone The British fragrance queen explains her extraordinary journey to success, over lunch at Scott’s in London
WORDS: Kaye MaRtinDale iMageS: geOff BROKate
ou’re not going to expect this, the story of Jo Malone. As we step from the spacious and quiet foyer into the busy Unless you’ve heard it before, of course, then in which restaurant, the sound of dining and chatter is almost overwhelming. Ycase you will… but even then you should read on, as hers Jo doesn’t waste any time – she’s a regular at Scott’s and knows has not been the usual rise to high profile business success. Jo what she wants. Malone might just be your new hero. What many people probably don’t know is that Jo’s story is We meet in Scott’s Restaurant in Mayfair, London. Jo arrives with rather unconventional. Her family life has a filmic quality to it, an her head of PR ,“to make sure everything runs smoothly”. It puts a element of rags-to-riches and eccentric characters – the dark, different slant on the usually informal ‘Lunch with’ setting, but they surreal flavours of a Tim Burton movie as opposed to a tired have been working closely together for years and have the easy Hollywood blockbuster, though. Jo’s father was a member of The camaraderie of old friends. Any doubts dissolve as they envelop me Magic Circle and also an artist, while her mother worked for the in warm, friendly hugs as soon as they arrive. enigmatic and self-styled Countess Lubatti as a cosmetician.
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The waiter brings our food over and we all eagerly tuck in, for a few moments the conversation quietens. Jo has ordered sides of fries and creamed spinach and offers them around. Severe dyslexia means Jo is unable to read or write, which made school life in the ’70s a disheartening experience. An unrecognised condition at that time, “I was told that I was either stupid or lazy. I thought, well, I must be one or the other but I knew I wasn’t stupid because I could work things out faster than most people.” Unfortunately worse was to follow and, at the age of 12, Jo’s mother had a “kind of breakdown” she explains. “That was when I realised that it was up to me or my sister and I were going to be taken into care. I don’t know how I did it but I convinced everyone I could hold it together. I remember sitting in the living room thinking: ‘We have no money.’ I thought: ‘OK, then I can make face creams and sell them to mum’s clients, and that’s exactly what I did.” Jo, who had been helping her “I dIdn’t have mother mix ingredients since she was a little girl, attributes the mum and her remarkable capacity to dad that you remember measurements and ingredients to dyslexia. came home But a greater blessing for the to every day. budding entrepreneur was her synaesthesia, a neurological When I came condition in which the home It Was stimulation of one sense triggers an experience in another – for up to me to example, words may have a put food on taste or colours may have a sound. In Jo’s case she has a that table” heightened sense of smell and colours give off vivid aromas. “My sense of smell is my compass. I can tell when it’s going to rain, I can tell when my dog is sick, I could tell when there was a flood about to happen in the house. It’s something that’s very natural to me but if I try to explain it goes away.” “My childhood was not easy, but it wasn’t unhappy either,” Jo left school while she took care of the family and managed the she says. “I felt very loved as a person and I was around creativity business, briefly returning at the age of 14 where she found that morning, noon and night. My dad was the most wonderful man. The school didn’t have any relevance for her as she was learning more only thing I didn’t like was his huge gambling problem. I didn’t have working from her family home’s kitchen. With a big smile and an the mum and dad that you came home to every day. When I came open-handed gesture that suggests she’s more than happy with home it was up to me to put food on that table.” Jo worked from an early age as her father’s assistant at magic shows, worked the local markets with him selling his paintings, and helped out her mother making beauty products. These early experiences of work, explains Jo, with an air of positive philosophy, taught her to trust her creativity and imbued her with a passion for selling. “I don’t believe anything in life is ever wasted. Everything is of use if you learn from it. I think the markets taught me the joy of being a merchant, of making something and putting it out into the world. Being a magician’s assistant taught me about the importance of theatre and the magic of life: how we all want to feel that childlike moment when the rabbit comes out of the hat.”
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the way things have worked out, she explains, “I didn’t finish school “THaT wasN’T GOOd ENOuGH and I don’t remember doing any exams, I’ve got no qualifications so… there you go.” fOr mE. I’m NOT GOING TO Despite her friendly and positive demeanour, there’s also subtle HavE sOmEONE TELL mE wHEN toughness and determination at work behind the smile. Jo deftly manages the conversation, deflecting questions that aren’t immediately I’m GOING TO dIE” relevant to the brand’s story yet drawing me into her world with expressive demonstrations of how she creates her fragrances. manage a burgeoning company was lifted. “I was very happy for three At 21 she married Gary Wilcox. She had a small skin care business years, travelling the world... and then I was diagnosed with cancer and and started to develop her sense of smell. “I realised the gift I had and it stopped me in my tracks.” started to create bath oils and body lotions. That’s when the business When her son was aged just three, Jo was told she had nine became very different. We got our first shop in Walton Street and for months to live. With an indefatigable resilience that has got her four years we saw the most phenomenal growth. Gary left his work through many difficult times, she looks me square in the eyes as as a surveyor and together they created Jo Malone, the fragrance she states, “That wasn’t good enough for me. I’m not going to have brand that became synonymous with luxury and sophistication.” someone tell me when I’m going to die.” She went to New York In 1999 Jo sold Jo Malone to Estée Lauder and continued an and endured nine months of aggressive chemotherapy, which has association with the company as creative director and chairwomen. left her cancer-free. For a while she had the best of both worlds: she had received a large Jo left Jo Malone and Estée Lauder completely in 2006 but the but undisclosed, figure for Jo Malone, and the pressure of trying to price of her freedom was high. She was subject to a contractual
Next month Emirates adds its tenth daily flight to the British capital. The new service, which starts October 1, is Emirates’ fourth daily flight to London Gatwick and will complement its six daily services to Heathrow, taking the airline’s total weekly services to the city to 70.
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OS67_023-027 Lunch With.indd 25 8/23/16 2:01 PM Make the Roaming Callback App part of your travel pack. Roam with Etisalat and call anywhere for just AED 3/min.
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lockdown from any kind of engagement with the cosmetics That much is certainly true, devotees of Jo Loves are many and industry for five years. “Within days of leaving I realised I’d made the company has big plans to expand into new territories in 2017. a big mistake. Not a big mistake in selling or leaving but I had After turning down offers to write her autobiography for the past six misjudged myself. I didn’t realise how much my happiness, my years, she’s now confident that her happy ending has come true and contentment, was connected with creating fragrance.” felt it was the right time to share her journey. With a big smile and her In 2011, as soon as the lockdown ended, she launched Jo Loves. animated way of communicating, she explains,“You need to start the She describes it as much harder to do the second time around as story down there and end the story up here.” So what seems like the people weren’t aware that she was no longer a part of Jo Malone. end of the story for Jo is just the beginning for Jo Loves. Gathering “People were a little confused. It’s taken three years of telling the up her paraphernalia, she says goodbye on a high note – perfectly story but it’s starting to really happen now.” illustrating her point. Then she’s off for her next interview, ready to tell Even after spending just an afternoon with Jo, it’s not exactly her story all over again. difficult to believe her when she explains that she was so desperate to get back into business that she rushed things. “I got all the packaging wrong the first time around. I just wanted to be The Bill back being a shopkeeper and I was like a kid running towards it. 3 Cover Charge US$7.80 My husband kept saying to me, ‘Jo, slow down,’ but that’s not my 1 Badoit water US$6.40 nature. So I had a few bruised knees.” 1 Evian water US$6.40 The first two years of the business were hard but things came together on Jo’s 49th birthday, when her husband gave her a key to 1 Yellow Fin Tuna US$30.40 a shop. It was the first shop she had worked in as a 16-year-old girl, 1 Squash Masala US$20.40 on Elizabeth Street, in London’s Belgravia neighbourhood. Giving the 1 Grilled Sole US$55.60 brand a home and giving her a place to let her merchant’s imagination 1 Creamed Spinach US$7.10 run wild was just what the fledging company needed. The Jo Loves shop functions as a creative studio and a kind of 1 Chips US$5.50 fragrance tapas bar, where clients can come in and get painted with 1 Cappuccino US$4.90 fragrance or have their own candle cocktail mixed. “Twenty-five years 1 Earl Grey US$4.50 ago I would never have had the courage to do what I do now, it’s too 1 Cafe Latte US$4.90 daring. Now it doesn’t bother me. If people don’t agree with me, if people don’t like it, that’s fine, because there are thousands of other people out there that do.” Total US$153.90
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Words: david Leck images: HoTeL mUse
In a city serving up the opulent with the Road, there’s an air of tranquility here that from which you may not want to leave. Le thrifty, the luxurious with the basic and you notice as soon as you enter a lobby Salon bar in the lobby is a cool spot for a the traditional with the quirky, Hotel Muse of white marble, walls of muted calming beer, aperitif or business meeting and there dishes out lashings of style, bags of comfort tones, historic monochrome photos and is a small but perfectly formed rooftop and plenty of atmosphere without ever comfy sofas. pool and a gym. It is, though, that calm and crossing into the pretentious. Rooms are spacious, stylish, and homely, tranquility that make Muse a delightful From a setting on an upscale street with large beds and bedding that’ll oasis in the most hectic of cities. close to the city artery that is Sukhumvit envelope you like a big hug and bathrooms hotelmusebangkok.com
Emirates offers six flights a day non-stop to Bangkok.
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La Maison Favart Paris, France
Words ANd IMAGEs: GEoff brokAtE
La Maison Favart is a spacious boutique Baroque musicians and neoclassical painters. and souvenirs collected from a lifetime of hotel that pays homage to the romance of Now, of course, that style meets the travels. 18th century couple, and Opéra-Comique contemporary necessities of a flat screen Ultimately, though, it’s the excellent founders, Charles Simon Favart and Marie- TV, Nespresso machine and free Wi-Fi. location – you’re a five-minute walk from Justine Favart. The idea is to create the impression that the Folies Bergère – attentive staff and good The hotel has a classically Parisian style you’re guests of the Favarts. The rooms are value for money here that impress most. that recalls a time when the rooms would decorated to represent stages of Marie- The mini spa is simply a fantastic bonus. have been occupied by travelling acrobats, Justine’s career, and you’ll find antiques lamaisonfavart.com
Emirates operates 20 flights per week from Dubai to Paris with the A380.
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AndAz Tokyo TorAnomon Hills Tokyo, Japan
Words: david Leck images: andaz tokyo
Gracious service, a comfortable seat in the elements – sleek lines and wood surfaces – rooms, are a sight to behold upon waking. lobby, green tea at the ready, and sky-high with a distinct sense of place; guest rooms And not only does the hotel boasts Insta- views over a shimmery Tokyo – such is the feature ceramic tea sets, a deep tub with worthy views from the rooftop bar and spa, late-night welcome by Andaz. Opened in seasonal bath salts (spring means coriander), but its central location links directly to the 2014, the hotel crowns the top floors of a futon-inspired bed, kimono bathrobes, and Olympic Village. Come 2020, this will be the the 51-storey Toranomon Hills skyscraper. walls that evoke shoji screens. The Imperial hottest spot in The Land of the Rising Sun. Interiors fuse the brand’s signature design Palace Gardens, seen from northeast-facing tokyo.andaz.hyatt.com
Emirates serves three destinations in Japan – Tokyo Narita, Tokyo Haneda and Osaka. Emirates also operates complimentary coach services for passengers holding a flight ticket and travelling to and from Osaka and Nagoya – bus schedule and further information is available at emirates.com
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OS67_028-032 Stay.indd 32 8/23/16 2:03 PM Alchemy Project.pdf 1 8/22/16 11:15 AM F O T P M F J B O E V T S D R V F E 4 J S Z $ X O F E C F P P M F J B S R V F E 4 J S B J O E $ F L B S 7 L T B E F N S I F U S 5
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K PERFORMING ON 16 - 26 SEPTEMBER 2016 | DUBAI DUBAI WORLD TRADE CENTRE TICKETS START FROM AED 245 EXCLUSIVELY FROM WWW.TIXBOX.COM
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Neighbourhood AMSTERDAM NOORD, NEThERlANDS
Words and Images: saraH Freeman
o quite literally turn your Industrial cast-offs from its shipbuilding NDSM wharf and IJ Promenade opposite back on ‘the other side of heyday have been repurposed into craft Central Station is on two wheels. A bike the river’ when you arrive at breweries, cool art spaces, clean-energy will also come in handy if you want to Amsterdam’s Central Station cafes, creative start-ups and the biggest flea venture into the nearby open countryside, would be a big mistake. Like market in Europe, IJ-Hallen. From futuristic, where a vision of chocolate-box manyT neighbourhoods on the fringes, multimillion dollar builds like the EYE Film Waterland villages, windmills and historic Amsterdam Noord has reinvented itself Museum and A’DAM Toren, to the historic chalk mills awaits. from a rundown, derelict wasteland to a dike houses on Nieuwendammerdijk Quirky, hip and fast becoming the city’s buzzing, creative community. It may just be Street, and reclaimed industrial warehouses foremost creative hub, you’d be hard a free five-minute ferry ride from the ’Dam lining the wharf – its architectural pushed to find another neighbourhood proper, but its festival-like ambience and landscape is refreshingly eclectic. where you can bed down in a crane- delightfully traffic-free streets feel a million Deceptively small (the Noord is a third turned-hotel, dine alfresco on an urban miles away from the likes of tourist-choked of the size of the entire city), the best way beach and watch a free movie in your own ’Dam Square. to navigate between the main areas of private pod.
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Opening specials available www.canyonranch.com/kaplankaya +90 252 511 00 51 Bodrum/Milas Airport
10min 30min 50min Neighbourhood
Film + Technology in The AreA EYE FILM MUSEUM (Seven-minute cycle)
Hovering over the water like a giant cyber shark, the sleek and sculptural EYE Film Museum has not only changed the face of the Noord’s waterfront since opening its doors in 2012, but has become one of the city’s most iconic buildings. Its world-class film archive – running the gamut from rare colour silent movies to the latest digital productions (not to mention a collection of over 35,000 film posters) – has cinephiles heading here in their droves. Perfect if the weather is on the turn, you can get cosy in one of the interactive basement’s free mini-cinema pods, or head upstairs to their state-of-the-art cinema halls, which screen everything from documentaries to Dutch movies. Don’t miss the iconic 3D PRint cAnAl Hollywood camera used to film Citizen Kane, amongst its vast collection HOuSe of film paraphernalia. Fancy seeing large-scale 3D printing in action? Make an IJpromenade 1, 1031 KT | 020-589-1400 | eyefilm.nl appointment to see the expo- site of DUS Architects, who are building the world’s first life-sized printed house. ASterweg 49, 1031 HM, 020-229-1786, 3DprintcAnAlHoUSe.coM
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OS67_035-041 NeighbourhoodAMSTERDAM.indd 37 8/23/16 2:04 PM 0000 -FS-Wedding-Ad-Open Skies- H 260mm x W 195 mm-V1.pdf 1 8/23/16 6:18 PM A’DAm tORen For jaw-slackening 360° views of the city, pop next door to the newly in the AreA unveiled sky deck at the ex-Shell (One-minute cycle) headquarters-turned-multi-venue tower. A’DAM Lookout, overhoekspLein 5, 1031 ks, 020-217- 0599, ADAMLookout.coM
Culture + Views TOLHUISTUIN
Venues don’t get much more eclectic than Tolhuistuin – a former Shell staff canteen that has been transformed into the cultural hub of the Noord. Although open for business year-round, the multi-art complex really comes alive in the summer, hosting pop-up concerts with multi-music genres from gospel to jazz, an open-air cinema and literary events in its chilled Toll House Garden. The building’s moniker can be traced back some 350 years, when it collected tolls from ships passing through the Buikslotertrekvaart canal. Indoors, there is a small contemporary art gallery and dance studio where Amsterdam’s first hip hop school, Solid Ground Movement, rehearse and host free lessons for children. Located conveniently behind the Buiksloterweg ferry terminal, make this your first port of call in the Noord. You can grab breakfast on the THT cafe’s sun-drenched terrace overlooking the river IJ, and rent retro bikes at the friendly information centre downstairs. IJpromenade 2, 1031 KT | 020-760-4820 | tolhuistuin.nl
Emirates flies twice daily to Amsterdam with the A380.
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neeF lOuiS DeSiGn Step into industrial, vintage heaven at Neef in the area Louis Design – a huge hangar festooned (15-minute cycle) with mid-century chairs, 1970s sofas and some salvaged maritime treasures. PaPaverweg 46, 1032 KJ, 020-486-9354, neeflouis.nl
Bike + Vintage Shop NIEUWENDAMMERDIJK If you thought the Noord was all up-cycled shipping containers and mod architecture, think again. Some areas have a delightful rural village feel. For a taste of its more bucolic character, cycle to one of the city’s most historic and picturesque streets; Nieuwendammerdijk. From the IJ Promenade, cruise along the Noordhollandsch Canal and cut through Noorderpark until you reach the mile-long embankment lined with crooked dijkhuis (dikehouses), which date back to the Dutch Golden Age. Once a late medieval settlement and village called Nieuwendam, the area is now part of the Noord neighbourhood. The former homes of traders, fishermen and shipbuilders may look like handsome stone canal side houses, but their structures are crafted entirely from wood to lighten their load on the dike. Hit the brakes at numbers 202-204 (Half Moon Villa), once the residence of the famous De Vries-Lentsch shipbuilding family. Nieuwendammerdijk 202-204, 1025 LV | foursquare.com
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K LocaL KnowL edge Last Exit A kaleidoscope of colour emerging out of the desert, Dubai’s new 1950s-inspired truck stop is refuelling hungry travellers in style words and Images: sandra TInarI
The story behind the food “Last Exit pays tribute to a time when the business of food was simple. When the service was quick and the food fuss- free,” says Abdulla Al Habbai, group chairman, Meraas. “The inspiration was taken directly from a 1950s fuel station; their trailers, trucks and vans – keeping the destination accessible and cool with a retro twist. The design ethos was to consistently challenge the norm whilst keeping it cohesive. The interior Food trucks for all space is meticulously created The quirky Jebel Ali destination offers airstream food trucks leveraging rehashed automotive selling gourmet food that spans Latin America, international, parts throughout its structure as Middle Eastern, American and Italian cuisines, as well as the well as in common areas.” all-important road trip caffeine and cake offerings.
A convenient way to visit Dubai’s top attractions is with City Sightseeing’s hop-on hop-off bus. Learn more at citysightseeing-dubai.com
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Detail in the desert As ever, with Dubai, the detail is crucial, and vintage road signs and fuel pumps – along with colourful auto memorabilia and repurposed car tyres – create an authentic and slightly zany image. It all lends such a kitsch sense of fun that Last Exit could eventually become a destination in its own right.
Caffeine hit You’ll find some fantastic coffee at Carlos Santos, The Brass. As good a stop-off point if you’re on an early start and are in desperate need of a caffeine hit, as it is for those seeking a nice brew for a quick pick-me-up on the late drive back home.
Going loco Poco Loco’s new food truck is packed with Latin American favourites. Think loaded nachos, tacos and classic burritos.
Exit 11 Sheik Zayed Road to Dubai lastexit.ae
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Rewind London, UK
Words: AndreW BirBeck imAges: reWind
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OS67_046-047 Entrepreneur.indd 46 8/23/16 2:06 PM ENTREPRENEUR
ack in 2011, Sol Rogers was at experience was an incredible moment. It refugee, Sidra, as she guides you around a crossroads. A senior university was the world’s first VR experience for her temporary home. It inspired one in six Blecturer in Digital Animation, a global brand, and seeing the reaction members of the public to donate – twice Visual Effects and Emerging Technology, from the crowds and pilots was amazing. the average of the UN and Unicef. he had a chance to push forward with Suddenly we all knew that VR was going “Making people feel makes them act,” a freelance project that was simply too to be hugely successful.” says Rodgers. “It’s a very powerful medium good to let go. Although VR isn’t a new concept, it’s in that respect, and we’ve set up a not-for- “Before I knew it I had a team of still one that can be difficult to get your profit organisation, VRTogether.org, to help six and Rewind was born,” he explains head around. Here’s how Rogers sees it: research and create VR content that will of a virtual reality (VR) and creative “VR immerses you in a new reality, making have a positive impact on humanity.” production agency that is helping you feel like you are experiencing the While the benefits are many, there change the media landscape before our other reality firsthand. Augmented reality can be cautionary tales, however. “There very eyes. adds to your current reality – developed are studies claiming that, by 2020, some In just five short years, Sol and his into apps and used on mobile devices to people will spend more time in VR than team have enabled us to sing with Björk, blend digital components into the real in the real world,” explains Rogers. It’s go on a spacewalk, face g-forces of world. Mixed reality is the future, though. something of a dystopian view but it up to 10-g with Red Bull master pilot “We’re working with Microsoft’s serves as an appropriate nudge that Martin Sonka, and be part of the huddle HoloLens on a headset aimed at VR should complement a lifestyle, not in the Turkish international football team blending the physical and digital worlds. replace it. “The majority will use it for dressing room for an inspirational half- It doesn’t take much imagination to entertainment, escapism, education time talk. It’s jaw-dropping stuff. see the extraordinary ways in which or experimentation,” says Rogers. “I’m But as amazing as that all is, for Rogers, this technology could be genuinely positively excited about how VR can his highlight is something a little more transformational, from daily living to change the world for the better.” personal. “The day we moved into our entertainment, to education and medicine.” rewind.co own bespoke studio, three years ago, It’s something that’s already having an was a real standout moment,” he admits. effect in real time. In 2015, the United “Finally it felt like we were running a Nations commissioned a series of films to LOCAL KNOWLEDGE proper outfit and I’ll never forget the feel highlight the plight of Syrian refugees and of having those keys in my hand. Liberian Ebola victims. One of the films, Cutting-edge London can “But, of course, the work has been Clouds Over Sidra, is a moving, eight-minute pretty amazing, too. Launching the virtual reality film that allows you to pan be found at… Red Bull Air Race interactive VR flight the camera 360° and follow a 12-year-old Silicon Roundabout – the capital’s tech hub. For a good dollop of inspiration… I’d recommend heading to devour.com The top VR expo in the capital is… VRLO. It’s London’s most popular VR meet-up where enthusiasts can get hands on with the tech. London’s best 3D (immersive) cinema is… Secret Cinema. It has screenings at various city locations. The best words of advice I can give are… Base a company around a personal passion, otherwise it will always just be work and never succeed. After all, who can say that they like to work?
Download The Emirates App – available for iPhone, iPad and Android. Your personal journey planner makes it easy to view and arrange your trips when you’re on the go. Designed to complement the iPhone app, there’s also an Emirates App for Apple Watch.
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OS67_046-047 Entrepreneur.indd 47 8/23/16 2:06 PM OPEN SKIES FOR IPAD
Search for Open Skies on the App Store
os ad_OS.indd 1 8/23/16 3:21 PM A collection of stories from around the world
The Emirates Airline Festival Of Literature 64
Race Town Journey To The Centre of The Earth 50 56 MAIN
OS67_049 Main.indd 49 8/23/16 2:07 PM Race town Newmarket might appear like just another quaint and picturesque English market town, but behind its sleepy exterior lies the very heartbeat of British horse racing
Words: Adrian Mourby Images: Kate Tadman-Mourby
OS67_050-054 New Market.indd 50 8/23/16 2:09 PM walk before breakfast will quickly deliver news of what a very unusual place Newmarket is. Horses. The horizon is full of horses. This small town was made fashionable by the Stuart kings in the seventeenth centuryA and its shape today is still determined by the horse racing settlement they created. It might be just a day’s horse ride from London and contain the remains of a few royal palaces, but the real story lies in the 2,500 acres of Jockey Club Estate Land. On any given morning you’ll find trainers in big winter coats assembled at The Severals, an area of grassland where horses are warmed up before they go on to Warren Hill to canter. As they’ll vary in performance from day-to-day, a good trainer knows to keep a very close eye on his charges. Continue walking and you’ll head towards the gallops and canters that are open each morning. Here you’ll see the very central working of the industry – the talent – hundreds of horses, each being led or ridden by a Newmarket “lad” in boots, black body-armour and riding helmet. This scale of the operation in Newmarket is the key signifier. Elsewhere in the UK you’ll find horses simply training on local racecourses, but in Newmarket they have the choice of over 14 miles of artificial gallops and 70 miles of grass gallops. The Heath has been preserved unploughed and uncultivated since the time of King James I. Twenty-six “Heath Men” look after it making sure it’s available 365 mornings a year, regardless of the weather. This town contains the largest area of mown grassland in the world and up to 3,000 racehorses are exercised here every morning. According to Samantha Hills, who has been riding since she was four and comes from a long line of Newmarket trainers, it’s nothing more than a local joke that Newmarket contains more horses than people. “In fact, there’s a population of around 15,000 – but then a third of them do work in horse- related occupations.” Newmarket has over 50 horse-training stables, many of which stretched out along the Bury Road. It also has two large racecourses and is home to the majority of British horse racing institutions. It’s the birthplace and spiritual home of thoroughbred horse racing – and even the Queen regularly visits informally to see her horses train.
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Centred around a brick house built in 1874 for Prince steady stream of successes. Given the very slow cash flows in Soltykoff of Russia, Kremlin Cottage is undoubtedly one of horse racing and the very high costs, it was fortunate that he Newmarket’s prettiest stables. After the Crimean War, the was independently wealthy, but then you have to be to take on prince visited Newmarket on a peace dividend vacation and this kind of work. never returned home. He died living there in 1903, having This of course is not true for the jockeys. Veteran, Michael become a popular figure in British racing and boasting a string Hills is now 52 and retired. In 34 years he rode around 2,500 of successful horses. winners. The standard fee for a jockey is now US$196 per race In the 1930s and ’40s the Kremlin trained great horses plus 7.5 per cent of prize money if they win. Most jockeys race like Hyperion, Diadem, and Swynford. In 1978 it was sold to between three and six horses a day at the most, but Hills used Michael Jarvis and in 2011 Jarvis’ widow leased it to Hugo to notch up ten, often driving between courses. “You have to Palmer, who had just received his licence to train. Starting out save your money,” he warns. “Fortunately I was 30 years old with just eleven inexpensive horses, Palmer has since had a when I was earning well… and I had a very strict wife.”
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After the Crimean War, Prince Soltykoff visited Newmarket on a peace dividend vacation and loved it so much that he never returned home
Kremlin Cottage stables
The finances of ownership, meanwhile, are rather Palmer relies on his stable staff, and especially jockeys attached more complicated. Each horse that exercises on the to the stables, to tell him how the horses are doing. “And to tell Heath costs palmer US$130 a month. On top of me which are ready to race.” It’s a big decision advising an owner that he has feed, vets bills and wages for all the men on when and where to race a horse, especially as you have to and women who look after the horses. Palmer’s declare 24 to 48 hours before. “And it depends on the ground, yard employs 35 people: three in the office, 26 too. Horses differ. Some are better suited to fast ground and riders, aged 17-60, and then a further six who muck some to soft. Essentially a horse is 500kg travelling at 40mph. out. His success has meant that his prize money It’s all about how you hit the ground.” has doubled every year (the trainer always gets a After Kremlin Cottage it’s a short drive to the Godolphin percentage) and he now trains 70 horses, many Stables, which are owned by the ruler of Dubai, H H Sheikh owned by syndicates, but some belonging to the top Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. Godolphin was named owners in the world. It costs US$32,600 each year after the Godolphin Arabian, a horse from the desert that to train a horse at Kremlin Cottage Stables became one of the three founding stallions of the modern “There are lots of boxes so the horses can see each other,” thoroughbred. says Palmer. “They like that as they’re very sociable animals. It’s The stables were built by the 16th Earl of Derby – another a quiet yard too, which is something they respond to. A happy, horse-mad English aristocrat – in 1903 and originally named relaxed environment is what horses need. The more relaxed Stanley House Stables after his home nearby. They are set in they are, the more they eat and the fitter they become.” serene tree-lined grounds with every possible facility a horse As an old yard, Kremlin Cottage Stables is also spacious. “The might need, even an inclined gallop so that no horse has to horses can be spread out,” continued Palmer. “It keeps them leave the grounds to exercise. healthy and it stops infection spreading.” There are also metal If Kremlin Cottage is one of the best stables in the UK, cages on the grass beyond the yard where horses can be put Godolphin might well be the best in the world. Its luxury is a to graze. “A lot of new stables don’t have this much space, but I testament to how much horses, and horse racing, means to the have to be careful because if I keep expanding we’ll lose that.” elite. No wonder they call it the sport of kings.
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At Godolphin, the horses even have their own swimming pool and hot baths. It might well be the best stable in the world
Godolphin stables at Newmarket (top right)
Tony Garth won 100 races as a jockey before becoming travelling supervisor at Godolphin (he takes the horses all round the world to race) and he readily admits that Godolphin is “horse heaven”. The horses even have their own swimming pool and hot baths. “When I die I want to come back as a horse in this stable,” said Garth. The only way to follow something as grand as Godolphin, is lunch at the old Jockey Club Rooms, a remarkable double- fronted brick building on the High Street. Despite its name, The scene was flash, gaudy and fun; noisy young women in The Jockey Club was never for the jockeys, but rather for the fascinators and men in loud suits. It was an afternoon of surges moneymen, for those who bet on horses and their riders. as crowds moved en masse to the enclosure to see horses It stands not far from Palace House, the remains of a royal paraded before the all-too-brief race, and then back to the lodging that King Charles II – himself a very keen horseman finishing line to watch the winners streak past. The crowd, more – built in Newmarket. The club houses an extraordinary than anything, is perhaps an indicator of modern racing: not so collection of artwork, from a rather flattering portrait of much the sport of kings but the king of selfies. Winston Churchill that the great man (a successful racehorse But even in a sport such as horse racing – a pastime so owner and breeder in his spare time) donated, to an equestrian entrenched in the establishment – it has no choice but to move portrait by Stubbs that’s valued in the millions. with the times. That’s why, at Newmarket, you’ll see, the likes of Leaving the Jockey Club Rooms we headed to the Rutland Little Mix and Mark Ronson performing live, neatly packaged Arms Hotel where King Charles II used to lodge his mistresses, among the hectic racing schedule. and then to The July Course. Here, across a distance of six Not that embracing modernity will ever change this furlongs (1,207 metres), race meets are held on eleven days particular town, of course. Racing is its very heartbeat, and it’s between June and September every year. one that’s still beating gloriously.
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OS67_056-062 Most Travelled.indd 56 8/23/16 4:09 PM For a small group of people, travel isn’t just the occasional holiday with friends and family; it’s an all encompassing obsession to see more of the planet than anybody else… and nowhere is off limits
WORDS: Mark Johanson ILLUSTRATIONS: Alexander Wells
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all started in the summer of 1965 on a trip to West Germany when Don Parrish locales (the list includes far more obscure was 20. It was the young Texan’s first time outside of the United States and he landmasses than TBT). Take Bouvet Island, for took up work in a small metal factory in Hanau, just east of Frankfurt. Parrish example. This uninhabited sub-Antarctic island had this strong impulse to live as a foreigner in somebody else’s language, so the in the South Atlantic, owned by Norway, is American made a pact with himself that he wouldn’t speak a word of English the like catnip for competitive travellers. It’s the entire time he was in Germany. He bunked up with a local family, found a pen pal Holy Grail of earthly obscurity at eight days in East Berlin, and bought a motorcycle to ride off into sunsets and explore the unknown. Half by boat from anywhere else. a century and 13 passports later, Parrish says the summer of ’65 changed his entire life. TBT founder Harry Mitsidis, of Greece, By 1969 Parrish was exploring Eastern Europe and the Soviet Union. He made his first reveals he went on an expedition with a trip around the world in ’71. Not long after, Bell Laboratories hired him as a planning manager group of competitive travellers to Bouvet developing electronic switching systems, and he started skirting the globe as a business traveller Island last year, but when they finally got to laying the foundations for the telecommunications revolution we now take for granted. The job the island they weren’t able to land because made him enough money to retire in 1996 at the age of 51. He continued working for another the winds were howling mad (like they five years as a consultant, but quit for good in 2001 to dedicate himself full-time to his one true almost always are). “People really went crazy passion: extreme travel. when they realised we weren’t gong to “The big shift that occurs between normal travellers and extreme travellers is this point actually touch Bouvet,” the 44-year-old recalls. when you suddenly decide, ‘I want to see everything’,” Parrish, who now lives in Chicago, “One person even closed himself off in his explains. “When people start travelling they typically go to really nice places they’ve read about. cabin and didn’t leave for five days.” But then if you start going further and start visiting un-nice places, or places you know have That’s because the destination doesn’t problems, you get to a point where you just look over an entire map and say, ‘Let’s see it all’.” count for either list unless you set two feet Parrish can’t say just when exactly he came to that realisation, but over the next decade the on solid ground. What counts and what lifelong bachelor systematically orchestrated trips to all 193 UN member states, including Iraq, doesn’t may be the most contentious subject North Korea and South Sudan (the world’s newest country). He says some of his favourite within the community. After all, if you’re trips in that time were to those un-nice places, like Puntland in northeast Somalia, even though collecting countries like trading cards what he had to have armed guards with AK-47s on watch the entire time he was there. sort of proof do you need to back up your Parrish reckons he’s flown about five million miles, visited more than 60 islands by ship and claims? And does it matter if you’re just a seen 455 Unesco World Heritage Sites. He’s been to places that have seen fewer people than box-ticker who only the top of Mount Everest, such as Marion Island, halfway between South Africa and Antarctica. sets foot in a location By some accounts Parrish could be called the world’s most travelled man. Of course, that all American Don for a few minutes? Parrish is, by depends on who’s keeping track and just how exactly you define something as un-definable some accounts, TBT and MTP as having seen “everywhere”. the world’s most have different Global record-keeper Guinness retired its category for the world’s most travelled person travelled man ways of verifying a in the early 2000s due to a lack of common standards. It couldn’t have predicted it at the time, but that decision set the stage for a new era of competitive travelling. In Guinness’ wake a handful of organisations rose to the challenge of definitively answering the question: who on earth has seen the most of it? But there were problems right from the start. Namely, they all came up with different criteria. The Traveller’s Century Club (which dates back to 1954) defines “everywhere” as 325 countries and territories. You have to have visited at least 100 of them to join, but there is no ranking system of top travellers. That came with the two other record-keeping clubs for the travel obsessed, both of which digital, that popped up after Guinness bowed out, and sliced the globe into an even more complex puzzle. Most Travelled People (MTP) lists 875 places, while The Best Travelled (TBT) sets a virtually unattainable bar of 1,281. This means that a person like Parrish can simultaneously be the world’s top traveller on MTP, while raking seventh on TBT. Fuelled by money, time and a compulsion to see the unseen, there are now thousands of competitive travellers like Parrish racing to the world’s wildest corners and remotest islands. MTP alone is credited with spawning small-scale expeditions (often with big, US$50,000 price tags) to some of its hardest-to-reach
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Spaniard Jorge Sanchez is the most famous among the latter. Though the 62-year-old participates in both TBT and MTP for the travel inspiration each list provides, he’s also created his own list of 222 ways to travel deeper called the Travellers Exploits Club. It’s a rebuke to what he sees as lists riddled with “pseudo travellers” – people who eschew quality Harry Mitsidis traveller’s claims. Mitsidis, who ranks fourth on his own list, asks for quantity and “accumulate countries (above) in Somalia any traveller who exceeds 500 spots to then show proof of faster than we cook churros in Spain”. travel for a randomly selected set of destinations. This could be “Some people tick off a territory like Jorge Sanchez (right) says travel is passport stamps, receipts or a set of photos, for example. TBT Niue Island or Fernando de Noronha just not a competition also requires that you travel beyond the transport hub, though by landing on it and immediately, in the but an opportunity there’s no minimum time limit. The club claims about 10,000 same airplane, flying back without ever to learn new things members and at least four people who shot up to the top of visiting the island,” he explains. “These the list, but couldn’t verify their claims, have been kicked out. people don’t learn anything, they just waste American Charles Veley, creator of MTP, says his community of 20,000 “polices itself”, money for narcissism to get points in the particularly among the upper echelons (Veley is No 3 on MTP). “When I receive a travel clubs.” complaint of suspicious activity I request proof of travel, which can take many forms, including an oral interview,” the 50-year-old explains. But there’s no required minimum stay in a location so long as you enter legally and clear immigration at airfields and ports. Veley tells me a minimum would be impractical, particularly as the list includes many war- torn regions and uninhabited islands that require special government permissions. The community of competitive travellers is overwhelmingly Caucasian, upper class, middle-aged and male, through there are some notable exceptions. There’s Finnish traveller Oili Liutu (the top-ranking female on MTP), Kazuto Matsumoto of Japan (currently 12th on TBT) and Danish globetrotter Henrik Jeppesen (who, at 27, became the youngest person to visit every UN-recognised country earlier this year). Each person in this top tier tends to have his or her own unique travel style. Parrish, for example, tells me he’ll attempt to speak the basics of a local language so he can latch on to a domestic tourist, “because they often know the best places to go within a country”. Though he enjoys the kind of cultural exchanges that can occur on a humble local train, he also has no qualms forking over thousands of dollars for a one-off expedition to the edge of the unknown. “Every top traveller has his own definition of what constitutes a superior experience,” says Veley, who now works full-time at a Washington, DC-area business intelligence company and has three kids in San Francisco. “Some people value the most expensive experiences, while others find authenticity only in frugality.”
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OS67_056-062 Most Travelled.indd 60 8/23/16 4:27 PM Royal Voyagers Our Speciality
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Switzerland: +41 848 12 24 48 UAE : +971 52 777 02 48 [email protected] www.swissdiscovery.com Geneva | Bern | Zurich | Lugano journey to the centre of the earth
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Don Parrish at Sanchez spends a few months of each year washing dishes on in Bosaso or tell you the secret to how Robben Island in the Costa Brava to save up for his low-budget, high-intensity travels. they secured the permits to land on an South Africa He’s breezed through 22 passports and ranks No 2 on the TBT otherwise off-limits nature preserve. list behind German cyclist Heinz Stücke. Yet, he bristles at the term They’ll even schedule conferences in “competitive traveller”. places like Grozny, Chechnya, just to get “Travelling, for me, is not a competition but an opportunity to learn, to develop together, toss back a few beers and share yourself,” he says. Sanchez is the kind of guy who calls planet earth his university. “I tales from life on the road. consider every continent to be a subject and every country to be a lesson.” “When I come across another No matter what kind of extreme traveller you are, sliding in and out of prickly competitive traveller, it’s amazing how I feel frontier towns, lonely islands and dangerous war zones does have its costs. Sanchez as if we understand each other,” Mitsidis endured an aerial bombing by US-led coalition jets in Saddam Hussein-era Baghdad explains. “The whole world thinks we’re and was jailed as a “spy” crossing through Afghanistan during its war with the crazy, but there I am with this person who Soviets. Mitsidis found himself jailed in Yemen for crossing a border illegally, and Veley doesn’t, who knows where I’m coming recounts a harrowing 24 hours stranded with no shelter on an Antarctic island in the from. Our conversation could be about Bellingshausen Sea. how to get to Darfur and this won’t seem Parrish says the scariest places to him are often the most mundane, like crossing like complete madness; it’ll seem like the the street in a former British colony and forgetting which way to look. All in all, most most logical conversation possible.” top travellers report seeing a world that looks much different than the kind of images Neither Mitsidis nor Veley actually believes often splashed across the television news. “Given all the travelling I’ve done, I’ve been anyone will ever complete their respective in danger very little,” Mitsidis says. “I think that’s proof that the world is not nearly as lists in one lifetime. Mitsidis doesn’t even dangerous as it’s made out to be.” believe there is such a thing as the best But what about the ethical dilemmas of globetrotting? Is there anywhere off limits? travelled person. “Anyone who tends to say “You get arguments on whether you should go to places like North Korea, where this about themselves is, in my opinion, really you know the money you spend is going to the hands of the ‘bad guys’ but… when it diluted,” he insists. “I don’t think that’s really comes to making a choice, I would rather increase my understanding of a place than say the point of it all. It’s not about being the I’m not going to go because other people are telling me not to go.” best. It’s about enjoying it, learning, seeing as Mitsidis, a lecturer in leadership and organisational behaviour, says he hasn’t regretted much as possible and, yes, there might be a a single trip in his life. Most competitive travellers agree on that point. They also nice element of friendly competition, but I insist that, for all their differences and occasional bickering, they really are a close-knit wouldn’t suggest that anyone should ever be community. They’ll go out of their way to pass on the contact of an African station chief known as the No 1.”
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K CulturalCultural Capital Capital Literature festivals have grown beyond imagination in recent years, attracting increasing numbers even as book sales have fallen. We examine what’s driving the lit-fest boom, starting with the Emirates Airline Festival Of Literature
OS67_064-068 Emirates Litfest.indd 64 8/23/16 2:17 PM CulturalCultural Capital Capital LiteratureLiterature festivals festivals have grown have grown beyondbeyond imagination imagination in recent in recent years, attractingyears, attracting increasing increasing Words: Stuart TurtonWords: Stuart Turton numbersnumbers even as even book as sales book sales have fallen.have We fallen. examine We examine what’s what’s driving drivingthe lit-fest the boom, lit-fest boom, startingstarting with the with Emirates the Emirates Airline FestivalAirline Festival Of Literature Of Literature
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ow thick does a book have to be before it’s proper literature? Ask an author that question, and you’ll soon find yourself fleeing down H the street as poorly aimed hardbacks fly past your head. In the same spirit, it seems silly to praise a literary festival for its girth, but the Emirates Airline Festival Of Literature (EAFL) is a special case. Since 2009, it’s doubled in size, drawing over 170 writers, thinkers and speakers from 35 countries in 2016, and attracting around 40,000 visitors to 200 one-off events, making it the largest event of its kind in the Middle East. “I am delighted and, yes, surprised by the incredible growth of the festival,” says festival director Isobel Abulhoul. “The location of Dubai, at the crossroads of East and West, makes it excellent in terms of reaching out to authors across continents, and I believe the time was right for a cultural event of this kind. There is a real hunger both in the Emirates and the region for intelligent and interesting live discourse.” Desert Stanzas, at last year’s Emirates Airline Festival Of Literature It’s the curse of big numbers to hide almost as much as they reveal, which is why enormous effort from a dedicated team, we’re abusing food metaphors, why not we’re going to throw a few, even bigger, and there are many challenges along the delve into cliché for a moment. If a literary names into the mix. British poet laureate route. It becomes a tremendous and festival is food for the mind, the EAFL Carol Anne Duffy and crime writer Ian worthwhile achievement when you finally is Dubai’s lovely aunty, determined to Rankin gave readings at the 2016 edition, reach the top. The ‘top’ for me is when I make sure everybody eats until they’re as did Helen MacDonald, winner of the pause for a moment in the main foyer of ready to burst. The festival’s volunteer 2014 Costa Book Award for H Is For Hawk. the festival and watch thousands of happy programme encourages locals to help out, Literature’s MVP William Shakespeare was people, made up of every age group, while education days and competitions in attendance, courtesy of Steven Berkoff’s nationality and background, busily hurrying get people writing – in both English and one-man show Shakespeare’s Villains, and from one session to another, usually Arabic. Authors visit schools across the the scientists took off their white coats clutching a book. That is pure joy.” UAE, inspiring thousands of students to for five days to host talks, with zoologist It’s not doing Dubai’s cultural credentials read for pleasure, while the Montegrappa Nicola Davies and brain specialist Susan any harm, either. Up until recently, the First Fiction Competition looks to launch Greenfield in attendance. Basically, anybody city was a sugar-rush holiday destination, UAE-based authors onto the world stage who’s ever read anything would have a giddy blast of five-star hotels, beautiful by putting the winners into contact with found something to be enthralled by, which beaches, fine dining and adrenaline. Events international agents. Many of these have is just the way the creators like it. such as the Emirates Airline Festival Of gone onto multi-book deals, and even “Organising an annual international Literature throw a few vegetables onto returned to the festival as speakers, offering literary festival could be compared the plate, attracting people who might a pleasing narrative circularity. to climbing Mount Everest (in my otherwise never look beyond the cultural “As the centre of gravity in the world imagination),” says Abulhoul. “It takes delights of Europe’s big cities. And while shifts further and further to the east,
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Lahore Literary Festival
for reading and writing with the local year, while the Lahore Literary Festival community. in Pakistan attracted 50,000 visitors in “Packed venues, happy audiences and 2016. Pick almost any country on the authors, and positive feedback from all map, and at some point they’ll host an sectors involved in the festival; these are event celebrating reading. The question all real measures of our success,” says becomes: what’s driving this boom in Abulhoul. “But our work is not done literary festivals? when the festival is over. We immediately “Don’t forget, there are different kinds gather all the statistics; from ticket sales, of book fairs,” says Stephanie Kurschus, room managers, researchers, authors, author of European Book Cultures: moderators, partners and the team Diversity As Challenge. “The world’s biggest members. We compare current results children’s book fair [in Bologna] is for with past statistics, and we conduct surveys professionals of the business only. The inviting audience members to send us masses in Bologna consist of publishers, feedback. Each year a theme is selected, booksellers, agents and authors… festivals and the 2017 theme is ‘Journeys’. This are often seen as a means to boost a Dubai has a really great future and it has helps in shaping the programme and city’s image by proclaiming it to be a book great potential as well,” says philosopher also the author selection. Next year we town or literature city.” AC Grayling, who attended the EAFL will introduce a publishing conference in 2016. “Large numbers of people are and a residential creative writing course. coming here, literally in the millions when There will also be a happiness strand, in you think about all the tourists, making it recognition of the never-ending quest that “Dubai has the a crossroads for communications. Dubai humanity has to become happy.” Nobody infrastructure, has the infrastructure, the geographical mention Dostoyevsky, OK? location, the wonderful development to The success of the EAFL isn’t an isolated geographical become a marketplace for many things, story. Literary festivals are springing up as location and including literature, ideas and open quickly as James Patterson novels. There’s wonderful discussion.” now 350 of them in the UK, and nearly So, no pressure then? But the EAFL triple that in the US. There’s almost 100 in development is keeping its feet firmly on the ground, Australia and New Zealand, and 80 across to become a incrementally improving the festival every India. And it’s not like these festivals are just year by bolstering it with fresh events a tent and some sandwiches in a field. The marketplace while welcoming interesting speakers from Zee Jaipur Literary Festival in India boasts for many things, varied disciplines. Fundamentally, though, crowds of 250,000, which makes the LA including no matter who’s on the podium, it’s a place Festival Of Books’ 150,000 turnout seem for people who love books to congregate, positively threadbare. Australia’s Sydney literature, ideas meet their heroes, and share their passion Writer’s Festival gets 100,000 people every and discussion”
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For more about the Emirates Airline Festival of Literature listen in to channel 1504 on ice Digital Widescreen.
It’s an understandable tactic, especially for middleweight cities that use the halo effect of the arts to attract sponsors, and big name authors to attract visitors. Case in point: Bradford in England, which received a government grant in January to run its Bradford Literary Festival for two years, with the aim of “developing the cultural infrastructure in Bradford and the North of England, leading to a step change for both literature and literacy”. Imagine the city going to the government with proposals for a five-day rave and you can see why literary festivals are so attractive. A Muggle’s Eye View of Harry Potter “I have been at festival events, where in the space of an hour people are moved newly published books,” adds Kurschus. DHH runs a number of smaller to tears, to laughter, to surprise and “They are supposed to quicken the literary fairs itself, but instead of disagreement,” says Abulhoul. “People appetite of potential readers. Meeting appealing to thousands of visitors leave the venue and view the world a favourite author is a good argument once a year, it attracts hundreds over to visit a fair; listening to readings from a series of events, each focusing on a “I’ve been at unpublished books as well as the simple specific genre, such as crime or fantasy, experience of enjoying books.” outside its Goldsboro Books shop in Festival events It’s not just the authors who are in Leicester Square. From this perspective, where, in the space demand at literary festivals. Government as somebody who both benefits from of an hour, people surveys have revealed that 60 per cent of literary festivals, and helps organise Brits and 80 per cent of Americans want to them, Illingworth has an interesting take were moved to write a novel, which is a slightly demoralising on why they work. tears, to laughter, statistic when placed next to the one per “I think it’s important for authors to get to surprise, and to cent of manuscripts that get published. themselves out in the public eye so that It’s a hard business, running on tight new readers can discover their work, but disagreement” margins against fierce competition. Literary at the end of the day, these events are all differently. Festivals attract repeat visitors, agents receive hundreds of thousands about authors and readers, so it’s very who return again and again. That is a real of submissions a year from wannabe important to look after them in the best plus in building cultural tourism. The EAFL authors, but only take a handful of clients possible way and ensure everyone has provides events for the whole family across on. They’re the unicorns of the publishing the best time they can,” he says. “From my a wide variety of genres and topics, so world and everybody’s stalking them, which perspective, and very simply put, I think [a from toddlers to senior citizens, enjoyment makes every literary festival a rodeo for good festival] is a nice balance between a is there to be found.” prospective authors. You just have to lasso fun, social atmosphere and healthy author Burnishing a city’s reputation somebody, and it’s not impossible. care from the event organisers.” with cultural events is hardly a new “Festivals and fairs are important to Whatever the alchemy driving the phenomenon, but it’s surprising to see agents in a number of ways as they may rise of literary festivals, it’s good to the number of literary festivals increasing have existing clients speaking on panels or at see culture taking itself to the people, even as book sales fall. A comparison the festivals but they may be also there to rather than standing aloof. Anything can be drawn with the music industry, discover new talent,” says Harry Illingworth, that draws readers from their armchair where sales of live performances have literary agent at DHH Literary Agency. “Many and authors from their typewriters skyrocketed even as album sales have fallen festivals have ‘pitch an agent’ type slots where is surely a good thing, and the way – except instead of Mick Jagger’s geriatric unpublished writers can pitch their novels to things are going, novelists are going to hip gyrations, there’s the dulcet tones of literary agents and get feedback. If the book have to learn to write on the road, authors and a nice glass of bubbly. is really great, this can lead to representation. because literature’s becoming a touring “Festivals and fairs that are open to Each festival is different, but you can be sure profession. the public serve as shop windows to that there’s lots of socialising, great panel The Emirates Airline Festival Of literature, the literary scene, allowing the public an events, help for new writers, and usually a March 3 to 11, 2017 intimate encounter with both authors and nice sense of community in there, too.” emirateslitfest.com
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Essential news and information from Emirates
Exciting news for young travellers 72
Inside Emirates Route Map 77 90 BRIEFING
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four new Additions to the fly with Me AniMAls
Emirates has added four new characters to Ocean, Abbott the hedgehog from the The animals will be featured across three the Fly With Me Animals family. They come woodlands of Europe, and Shane the Koala product lines: the Travel Buddy which comes from around the world and make cuddly from the Australian bush. with a plastic toggle; the Carry Buddy, a companions for young travellers. These characters are now on board dual purpose toy and blanket; as well as Each character has their own story to and replace the original four, but collectors the Magnetic Sketcher for young ones to inspire tomorrow’s explorers to discover of the Emirates Fly With Me Animals who express themselves creatively. the regions and cultures of the world. would like to get their hands on the first In addition to the Fly with Me Animals, The four new additions are: Eric the eagle series shouldn’t worry, you can still get them the Lonely Planet Kids activity bag has also from the mountains and forests of North by visiting emiratesofficialstore.com who been updated, with new travel content America, Silka the seal from the Antarctic ship worldwide. tailored for older children. All A380 service for MAnchester
Manchester will boast an all A380 Emirates service as of January 1, 2017. The deployment of a third iconic double decker aircraft on the popular route will see capacity rise by 11 per cent. Thanks to the new aircraft deployment, Emirates will offer 2,198 additional weekly seats on the route, meaning further business and leisure travel between Dubai and Manchester. Fans of the A380 have more good news as Emirates is also swapping its current A380 service at Birmingham from the morning to the afternoon departure slot, in order to offer customers even more connections beyond Dubai to other Emirates A380 destinations – ensuring a seamless “A380 to A380” experience. As of January 1, 2017, the A380 will operate flights EK 37/38 instead of flights EK 39/40 as it currently does. Leaving Birmingham at 8.45pm, EK 38 arrives in Dubai at 7.40am; while EK 37 departs from Dubai at 2.50pm to arrive in Birmingham at 6.45pm.
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فن حديث. .MODERN فن معاصر. .CONTEMPORARY فن أبوظبي. .ABU DHABI ART
16 – 19 نوفمبر November 2016 2016 19 – 16 منارة السعديات Manarat Al Saadiyat المنطقة الثقافية في السعديات Saadiyat Cultural District abudhabiart.ae EmiratE s nE ws
emirates fliGht traininG academy and BoeinG partner for pilot traininG system
Emirates Flight Training Academy, the state-of-the-art learning technologies and personal tablets. new world-class pilot flight training cutting edge training aircraft. “Our programme is designed to facility, is collaborating with Boeing on a Under the agreement with Boeing, produce career-ready pilots. Exceeding comprehensive training curriculum and Emirates Flight Training Academy will regulatory requirements, the curriculum software infrastructure. receive an integrated software system will, for instance, see cadets complete The Academy, currently under for managing cadet learning, as well as at least 1,100 hours of ground and 315 construction at Al Maktoum International an enhanced curriculum customised for hours of flight training using a competency- Airport – Dubai World Central (DWC) Emirates. Cadets will learn with highly focused approach,” said Captain Alan is scheduled to open in October, and will interactive digital content delivered in Stealey, Principal, Emirates Flight Training combine best practices in education with purpose-designed classrooms and on Academy.
GuanGzhou added to emirates a380 destinations
Emirates has announced that offering a total of 491 seats, with 14 it will operate its flagship A380 private suites in First Class, 76 mini on services between Dubai and pods with lie-flat seats in Business Guangzhou from October 1. Class and 401 spacious seats in This follows the airline’s recent Economy Class. announcements of A380 deployment Flight EK 362 will depart Dubai at on its Milan and Johannesburg routes. 10:20am and arrive in Guangzhou at The A380 service will increase 22:05. The return flight, EK 363, will capacity by 15 per cent to meet the depart Guangzhou at 12:15am and growing travel and trade demand arrive in Dubai at 03:50*. from Southern China to Dubai and Emirates was voted the World’s beyond. It will deploy its three-class Best Airline 2016 at the recent
*Flight times as per summer schedule A380 on the Guangzhou route, Skytrax World Airline Awards.
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K inside emirates plane to plate Down in the depths of the icy Nordic seas is a salmon destined for a Tokyo sushi bar. On a Seattle tree is a cherry required urgently for a pie in Bangkok. How they get there is down to Emirates SkyCargo
WORDs: jamie knights
in a world used to modern air travel, getting from A to B is rarely difficult. But when your passenger is a Nordic salmon that needs to arrive on the other side of the world, fresh and ready to take centre stage at one of the world’s finest restaurants, it takes a little more planning and plenty of know-how. And when you consider that it’s not just a solitary salmon, but thousands of tonnes of the fish per annum, you begin to understand just why Emirates SkyCargo has developed the groundbreaking transport facilities and techniques that allow for transportation. Tender beef, live clams, juicy tomatoes, aged cheese, there is an abundance of fresh produce – all with its own special requirements – that needs to be transported across the world, and done so with the utmost care and attention. Nabil Sultan, Divisional Senior Vice President, Emirates SkyCargo, reveals that the need for fresh food global transportation is being “driven by an increasing awareness of international culture and cuisines. “People are seeking to enrich their dining “Some of our innovative products include our White Covers, designed to shield temperature- tables with exotic fruit, fresh vegetables, sensitive cargo from solar heat during transportation,” explains Sultan. delicious seafood and other produce from “They’re water resistant, yet breathable, ideal for ‘living’ food and flower products, and around the globe,” says Sultan. “They want to importantly are environmentally friendly and 100 per cent recyclable.” experience international flavours from the But at the core of operations is state-of-the-art facilities at its dual hub locations at Dubai comfort of their own home. International Airport and Dubai World Central at Al Maktoum International Airport. “This is also true of the catering industry Between them they boast a combined cargo handling capacity of nearly two million tonnes with hotels and restaurants increasingly per annum. In order to ensure the quickest transportation times, techniques and products have offering international food choices to their been developed including quick ramp transportation, covers for ramp handling and temperature- clients all year round.” controlled handling and storage. To deliver such perishable goods, first you But, in a story such as this, it’s the sheer numbers that will always grab the attention. Take the need a global network. Emirates SkyCargo humble cherry. Emirates SkyCargo moved 94 tonnes of them from Seattle in 2015. That figure rose accesses more than 150 destinations in 82 to 247 tonnes this year, 115 tonnes of which went to Bangkok. The cherries average around six countries across six continents serviced by grams each – that works out to about 167 cherries per kilo and a total of over 19.2 million cherries a dedicated fleet of 15 freighter aircrafts, shipped to the Thai capital alone. 13 Boeing 777-Fs and two B747-400ERFs, It’s likely that you’ve never really thought about the journey of the food on your plate before. as well as its existing fleet of state-of-the-art But thanks to dedication, innovation and no little know-how, its freshness is testament to an passenger aircraft. amazing network that exists around the world. In order to maintain freshness and extend So the next time you sit down to enjoy your Nordic Salmon in Tokyo, we hope you might just shelf life, all shipments have to be transported see it through Emirates SkyCargo’s fresh perspective. in a temperature-controlled environment. Now turn over to the follow the food trail...
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OS67_071-094 Briefing.indd 77 8/23/16 2:19 PM InsI de e m I rates The food Trail Emirates SkyCargo helps take fresh food on an amazing journey around the world and onto your plate. Here are just some of the stats...
ILLUSTRATION: ROUI fRANcIScO
Fresh from India Every month 1,000,000 kilo of fresh vegetables, fruit and fish leaves Mumbai for Dubai, Europe and the US. cherry pick That’s just part of the story – mangoes to the UK A staggering 19,200,000 cherries have 3,000,000 kilo will leave the A mango journeys from Pakistan and India gone from Seattle to Bangkok this year. You country each month in total. to its main market of London, Manchester, could bake a lot of pies with that. Glasgow and Birmingham.
Flying lobster Emirates SkyCargo has carried 3,500,000 kilo of lobster since 2014 – from Boston to the lobster loving destinations of CRAB WALK Dubai, Shanghai, Taipei, Guangzhou and Bangkok. In 2015 Emirates Skycargo lifted 2,339,867 kilo of crabs from Pakistan to Shanghai.
Healthy route Meat on the move 450,000 kilo of green beans and Victoria in Australia is the largest exporter of vegetables go from Kenya to meat and in 2015-16 exported over 16,000,000 Dubai each month. kilo of meat to the Middle East.
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MILAN
From October 1, Milan will boast a second daily Emirates A380 service. Enjoy our guide to this hub of European fashion and commerce
Whether it conjures images of haute couture and catwalks, boasts high-end shopping boutiques, impeccable eateries and a industrial factories or commerce, Milan certainly means many glamourous nightlife that swaggers into the early hours. different things to many people. But the city also has a cultural heart and is home to the Business is certainly front and centre as you explore the country’s largest cathedral as well as one of the world’s most city, typically well-dressed Italians going about their work with famous paintings, The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci. an increased vigour compared to some of the more laid back, And then of course there is La Scala, one of the finest opera slightly more, tourist-orientated destinations of the country. houses to have ever been built. It was lovingly restored last Italy’s stock exchange, the Borsa Italiana, is a Milanese decade but plan well in advance if you want to secure tickets. institution, and where there is wealth creation you’ll find the All things considered, it should come as no surprise that Emirates finer things in life. This is certainly the case in Milan and the city is set to launch its second daily A380 to the city
EAT STAY DO EMIRATES
GIACOMO BULGARI HOTELS & RESORTS, SCALE THE DUOMO DI MILANO STAFF The perfect setting for a romantic MILANO The fifth largest cathedral in the meal – especially for fans of Stylish, elegant and perfect world was constructed in late TIPS seafood. Design notes evoke for business, this Bulgari hotel 14th century and boasts incredible the traditional Milanese trattoria epitomises the best of Milan’s sarcophagi and imposing alters. and the patterned tiled floor is characteristics. As the evening Head to the roof for spectacular a delight. The food is what really advances, the glamourous views over the city. Author matters, however, and just to Milanese make their way to the Mark Twain said of it: “I cannot prove it, an army of loyal fans keep hotel’s restaurant and bar for understand how it can be second coming back. impeccable food and designer to anything made by human Luca Rotolli giacomomilano.com drinks. A classy offering. hands”. Praise indeed. SENIOR AIRPORT bulgarihotels.com SERVICES AGENT PIZZA AM SAVOUR THE LAST SUPPER It would be rude not to have a ATMOS LUXE HOSTEL & ROOMS The 15th century mural by HIT THE LAKES pizza while in Italy, especially when The husband and wife team Leonardo da Vinci resides in the The stunning Lakes they’re as good as they are at Pizza behind this hostel ensure a refectory of the Convent of Santa Maggiore and Como are Am. But the food competes with flawless stay. They have added Maria delle Grazie. The work has just 90 minutes away. the wonderful characters who run some luxurious touches with captured the imagination of people the restaurant. Queue outside and designer bathrooms, colourful from across the globe and many expect drinks and nibbles while splashes of decoration, free WiFi will make the trip to Milan just to you wait. Brilliant fun. and continental breakfast. A host enjoy the 15 minutes that visitors pizzaam.it of trendy bars and restaurants are are allowed to gaze upon the also within easy reach. masterpiece. TRATTORIA ARLATI atmosluxe.com Claiming a restaurant serves food QUADRILATERO D’ORO Elena Bianchi ‘like your grandmother would SANTA MARTA SUITES Milan is awash with shopping SENIOR TICKET make’ is no small compliment in This boutique property boasts options, and in the Quadrilatero DESK AGENT Italy, but this is true for diners at bags of character and a multitude d’Oro (rectangle of gold) you EAT LIKE A LOCAL Trattoria Arlati. It’s not the easiest of touches that will satisfy the will discover boutiques boasting Try the cotoletta alla to locate, but people make the most discerning of traveller. Head Italy’s finest haute couture. If the Milanese, a cutlet effort for a reason. Opened in to the rooftop bar in the evening prices are a little eye watering, coated in egg the 1930s and still standing out in and enjoy a sundowner with lovely the area is still worth a visit as the and breadcrumbs and Milan’s restaurant scene. views over the city. window displays are often events then fried in butter. trattoriaarlati.it santamartasuites.com in themselves.
Starting next month, Emirates flights EK 91/92 will be operated by the Airbus A380 aircraft in a 3-class configuration. Passengers can enjoy easy access to Wi-Fi and over 2,500 channels of movies, TV shows, music and games.
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OS67_071-094 Briefing.indd 81 8/23/16 3:18 PM COMFORT
COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.
SMART TRAVELLER
DRINK PLENTY TRAVEL LIGHTLY WEAR GLASSES USE SKIN KEEP MOVING MAKE OF WATER Carry only the Cabin air is MOISTURISER Exercise your lower YOURSELF Rehydrate with essential items that drier than normal, Apply a good legs and calf muscles. COMFORTABLE water or juices you will need during therefore swap quality moisturiser This encourages Loosen clothing, frequently. Drink your flight. your contact lenses to ensure your skin blood flow. remove jacket tea and coffee in for glasses. doesn’t dry out. and avoid anything moderation. pressing against your body.
BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY AT THE AIRPORT DURING THE FLIGHT WHEN YOU ARRIVE Consult your doctor Allow yourself plenty of time Chewing and swallowing Try some light exercise, before travelling if you for check-in. will help equalise your ear or read if you can’t sleep have any medical concerns Avoid carrying heavy bags pressure during ascent after arrival. about making a long through the airport and and descent. journey, or if you suffer onto the flight as this can Babies and young from a respiratory or place the body under passengers may suffer cardiovascular condition. considerable stress. more acutely with popping Plan for the destination – Once through to ears, therefore consider will you need any vaccinations departures try and relax as providing a dummy. or special medications? much as possible. Get as comfortable as Get a good night’s rest possible when resting and before the flight. turn frequently. Eat lightly and sensibly. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.
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UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae customs & visa information Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.
CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM
All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be com- pleted by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.
ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.
ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA.
The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.
A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.
apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta
nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**
* SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE.
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OS67_071-094 Briefing.indd 84 8/23/16 2:19 PM Thai gemstones are highly regarded for their exquisite beauty, exceptional quality and extensive colour diversity. They are distinctively designed and expertly cut to a high quality standard. Thailand today is ranked as one of the world’s top exporters of Jewelry items and precious stones.
B2B ONLINE VISIT OUR FAIRS customs & visa information Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.
Follow theSe StePS:
1 2 3 4
have your boarding card or You’ll be given a Quick After passport clearance, If your bag is tagged to your ticket for your connecting flight Connect card. Continue to the claim your baggage and clear final destination, hand it to ready for the ground staff as Quick Connect queue in the US customs, regardless of your emirates staff at the transfer you exit. Arrivals hall. final destination. counter for your onward flight.
quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.
You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.
quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if:
• you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock
the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.
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OS67_071-094 Briefing.indd 86 8/23/16 2:19 PM MOI_Emirates May16.pdf 1 20/04/16 19:48
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NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE BE SMART! UAE SMART GATES USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI UAE INTERNATIONAL A A A AIRPORT B B B
GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START
Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed C D F through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. F G G Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.
I I I USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY
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Have your E-Gate card or machine- readable passport ready to be scanned 1 L M M
N N Z N
Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your O P Q 2 E-Gate card into the E-Gate slot
S M S A S
OK!
Go through the open gate, stand in the blue S K S S footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open 3 and you can continue to baggage claim S *UK USA
*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)
REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments • Machine-readable passports from having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time the above countries you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way • E-Gate cards just minutes after you landed.
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OS67_071-094 Briefing.indd 88 8/23/16 4:36 PM 26 YEARS OF EUROPEAN QUALITY CONVERSION
AUTOREDO, your premium European partner in the We are a premium central purchasing group for automotive industry since 1990 ! corporate customers : multinationals, NGOs, mining operators, oil, forest, construction industry, Anywhere in the world, whatever you need, we are etc. committed to offer the best level of service and responsiveness at each stage of your project. At your service : our team is fluent in Arabic, English, French, Farsi, Hausa, Hindi, Igbo, Italian, We supply brand new vehicles, original spare parts and Kabyle-Amajil, Malayalam, Nepali, Portuguese, accessories from Middle East (Dubai, UAE) or Europe Russian, Spanish, Swahili, Tagalog, Turkish, Urdu, (Antwerp, Belgium) Yoruba,... We are the leading company in vehicle's conversion. Possibilities are limitless : ambulance, service pick-up, hearse, mining vehicle, anti-riot vehicle,...
AUTOREDO, PREMIUM EQUIPMENT & PREMIUM EQUIPMENT & AUTOMOTIVE SOLUTION PROVIDER AUTOMOTIVE SOLUTION PROVIDER
AUTOREDO FZE | +971 4 808 27 00 | Jebel Ali Free Zone, Dubai (UAE) | www.autoredo.ae | [email protected] ROUTE MAP
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OS67_071-094 Briefing.indd 90 8/23/16 2:19 PM ROUTE MAP
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OS67_071-094 Briefing.indd 91 8/23/16 2:20 PM ROUTE MAP
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OS67_071-094 Briefing.indd 92 8/23/16 2:20 PM emirates grand.pdf 1 1/24/16 10:38 AM
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OS67_071-094 Briefing.indd 94 8/23/16 2:20 PM honcha.pdf 1 6/22/15 11:13 AM
YOUR CONCRETE PRODUCT REQUIREMENT OUR PRODUCTION SYSTEM SOLUTION
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ONE OF THE MOST ADVANCED TECHNOLOGICALLY EQUIPPED FULLY AUTOMATIC PRODUCTION LINES FOR YOUR COMPLETE RANGE OF CONCRETE PRODUCTS
AIR PURIFYING BLOCKS UV pollutant clean air (E.G.Nox)
TIO2
ILLUMINATED TECHNOLOGY AIR PURIFYING TECHNOLOGY
Fujian Excellence Honcha Environmental Intelligence Equipment Co. Ltd Head Office: 3-16B, Quanzhou Economic & Technological Development Zone, Quanzhou, Fujian 362005, China Factory: Xuefen, Huaqiao Economic Development Zone, Nan’an Fujian, 362300, China Tel. No: (86-595) 2249 6062 , 2249 6066, 2249 6070 | Fax. No: (86-595) 2249 6061 Web: en.honcha.com | E-mail: [email protected] , [email protected] Our fleet of 251 aircraft includes 236 passenger aircraft EMIRATES FLEET and 15 SkyCargo aircraft
BOEING 777-300ER This month: 2 arriving
up to 2500+
72%
88 (72%) out of 123 Boeing 777-300ERs are now equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, 123 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. More are being upgraded each month.
BOEING 777-300
850+
10 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m BOEING 777-200LR
2500+
80%
8 (80%) out of 10 Boeing 777-200LRs are now equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, 10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. More are being upgraded each month.
BOEING 777-200ER
850+
3 in fleet. Up to 274 passengers. Range of 14,310km. L 63.7m x W 60.9m
EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F
The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo 13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.
For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet
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OS67_096-097 The Fleet.indd 96 8/23/16 2:20 PM CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE
#
Live Television Wi-Fi Mobile Phone Data Roaming Channels of inflight GSM GPRS entertainment
This month: 1 arriving AIRBUS A380-800
2500+
The first A380s with Live Television joined the fleet in June of this year. This month six are equipped, with 85 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m more coming soon.
AIRBUS A340-300
100+ 850+
Economy Class 2 in fleet. Up to 267 passengers. Range of 13,350km. L 63.6m x W 60.3m First Class and Business Class AIRBUS A330-200
100+ 850+
Economy Class First Class and Business Class 2 in fleet. Up to 237-278 passengers. Range of 12,200km. L 58.8m x W 60.3m AIRBUS A319
550+
The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private 1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com
EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 747 ERF
This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of 2 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.
Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press
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OS67_096-097 The Fleet.indd 97 8/23/16 2:20 PM KNOWLEDGE DESTINATION KNOW YOUR CITY: MANCHESTER
ENGLAND’S MOST SUCCESSFUL FOOTBALL CITIES A TIMELINE
LONDON trophies won by seven clubs 79AD 72 Romans found Mamucium, which will later become LIVERPOOL trophies won by two clubs 56 Manchester. 1769 Industrial revolution MANCHESTER trophies won by two clubs 52 transforms Manchester. 1830 World’s first passenger train station created. BIRMINGHAM trophies won by two clubs 22 1842 Karl Marx and Frederick Engels meet while SHEFFIELD studying local industrial trophies won by two clubs 13 workers, who they call the ‘the proletariat’, coining the famous term. 1848 Manchester Viaduct completed using 11 million bricks. If laid out, Manchester’s Metrolink is the largest end-to-end, the bricks light rail network in the UK, covering would stretch from 57 miles, with a fleet of close to Manchester to Madrid 100 trams and 92 stations. and back again.
31.2m passengers took 1888 The Football League the tram in 2015, travelling was created at the 5.6m miles, earning the Royal Hotel, making it service £56.8m the oldest professional The number of Nobel Prize winners football league on the from Manchester University. planet. University of Manchester Manchester Metrolink 1900 Winston Churchill wins Oldham parliamentary seat, becoming an MP. MANCHESTER MOST-VISITED TOURIST ATTRACTIONS 1904 Henry Royce and Charles Rolls meet and agree to form the company, Rolls Royce. 1919 The atom is split for the first time by Ernest Rutherford. 1948 Sir Freddie Williams invents the world’s 426,517 678,867 866,773 531,904 466,788 first computer. it was codenamed Baby. 1999 The Museum of Science Manchester Art National Football Manchester Manchester United Lowry & Industry Gallery Museum Museum win the treble, becoming the first English club to do so.
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OS67_098 Knowledge.indd 98 8/23/16 3:03 PM finance house.pdf 1 7/24/16 4:34 PM
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