46 Cruising to on the Seabourn Odyssey by Janice Mucalov WT Photo Library

snake charmer threatens to wrap a Seabourn cruise. Our ship, the Seabourn the chance to see ? The three- cobra around my neck. “La Odyssey, is sailing from Lisbon to Barcelona, hour bus ride is admittedly long. But it’s Ashokran!” (no thank you) I manage calling in at Madeira, the Canary Islands comfortable on a high-speed highway. And to squeal. The town square pulsates with and Morocco. Our two full days in Morocco the almost biblical scenery – farmers herding activity – acrobatic entertainers, fortune are the most exotic part of this itinerary – and sheep with sticks and donkeys pulling hay- tellers, Berber musicians; it feels like one while it’s thrilling to get a taste of such a dif- filled carts – keeps my face glued to the win- huge carnival. From the square, a labyrinth ferent culture, I’m ready to shed the sensory dow. of narrow alleys fans out into the souk (mar- overdose when we return to the luxury and ket), which brims with brassware, pyramids calm of our ship at night. Magical Marrakesh of colored spices and pointy beaded shoes. Our first port-of-call is . There, I Entering Marrakesh, we pass the famed La I’m visiting the medina (old quarter) of could tour the world’s largest , the Mamounia. A former centuries-old palace, it Marrakesh on a shore excursion while on a Hassan II Mosque. But how could I give up was once the vacation haunt of Winston Churchill, who declared Marrakesh the “last kled with rose petals, and left her a sweet 47 paradise on Earth.” Though it’s now one of note: “Welcome back. I thought you’d like the world’s most exquisite hotels, its façade is this after your long day.” Not unusual on relatively unassuming; I wish we had time to Seabourn. The line, which is famous for its peek inside. unlimited complimentary champagne and caviar, is also known for its exceptional serv- And then, we see it – the huge red brick walls ice. Jen tells us about her surprise treat the of the medina. They stretch 19 kilometres next morning as we leave for our tour of around the old city, soaring up to 12 metres (our second Moroccan port-of-call) high. And those holes in the walls? “Some and Tetouan. say they were formed by canon blasts,” says our guide. “But the holes were actually made Tangier and Tetouan to allow the walls to breathe.” Whatever the Now we look forward to the next day’s explanation, it’s obvious pigeons like to roost In Tangier, we first drive past villas owned by adventure. in them. magnates – eye-popping in their opu- lence – then stop at the of . About Seabourn Once inside the medina, our group leaves According to , the demigod the bus for the 19th century Bahia Palace. Hercules is said to have rested here in these Seabourn is a luxury cruise line with five, Commissioned by Si Moussa, a slave who caves after finishing his 12 labours. An small, all-suite ships. Seabourn Odyssey car- became a sultan’s powerful Grand Vizir, it’s astonishing large gap in the rock wall is the ries 458 guests. Specialty dining, WiFi, liquor a mind-boggling tangle of some 160 rooms. highlight of the main . It’s perfectly out- and 35+ premium wines are included com- lined in the shape of a reverse Africa; look- plimentary in the rates. Several Western Where to look? At the intricate ceilings with ing through, I marvel at the breathtaking Europe itineraries call in at both Casablanca their painted inlaid woodwork? At the floors? view of the blue sea beyond. There are also and Tangier. They’re decorated with hand-made tiles, fascinating inscriptions made by early coloured blue, mustard, green and white to Phoenicians on the rock walls, believed to be www.Seabourn.com represent the four seasons. At the trickling maps of the surrounding area. fountains and gardens blooming with orange trees? Off one courtyard, four doors Then we drive an hour through green hilly Other Cruises That Visit Morocco lead to four rooms, one for each of the wives fields to Tetouan. One of the oldest cities in of Si Moussa’s son; I note that the favorite Morocco, Tetouan receives far fewer interna- Oceania Cruises wife’s room is bigger and has a higher ceil- tional tourists than Marrakesh. The souk in its Known for its excellent cuisine at sea, ing. If only the furnishings were still around; medina, stuffed with 40,000 shops, feels Oceania Cruises serves up Tangier on sever- unfortunately, when Si Moussa’s son died, more authentic. (In fact, apart from our small al European itineraries and Miami-to- his wives and sultan snatched the art and group, I don’t see another Western face Barcelona repositioning cruises. Shore excur- valuables to adorn their own palaces. among the throng of locals.) sions include a 5-hour tour of Tetouan as well as a half-day tour of Tangier. I’d like to dawdle and soak up the atmos- Our guide warns us: “If you get lost, I’ll never phere but lunch awaits. We’re escorted to the find you!” And so we follow him single file, Royal Caribbean Dar Rizhlane hotel for lunch in its fountain- sticking to each other like glue as we navi- The Independence of the Seas visits , filled garden courtyard. I feel like gate the souk. A kaleidoscope of psychedel- Morocco, on two “Canaries and North Scheherazade as we dine on course after ic scenes rapidly unfolds one after the other Africa” cruises in 2020. In Agadir, you can course of salads, couscous, fragrant lamb – live chickens, cobblers hammering shoes, rock the 1541 kasbah (citadel) and visit the tagine and almond delights, finishing off sardines on ice, colorful veggies and even souk. with mint tea. goat heads hanging on hooks. MSC Cruises After, we’re taken to a Berber pharmacy to Later that evening on the Seabourn Odyssey The line that gives you cruising with an Italian sample genuine Moroccan oil skin and hair – over a fine dinner of Dover sole meuniere flair – MSC Cruises – includes a day in products. Then we’re given some free time to in the specialty Thomas Keller Grill restau- Casablanca on several cruises that dock in wander the souk on our own. (That’s where I rant, washed down with a , and . MSC Orchestra, for encounter the snake charmer.) Sauvignon Blanc, of course – I chat with my example, offers 13-night roundtrip cruises mother (and cruise companion) about our from Barcelona in October; MSC Preziosa Returning back to the ship, Jen, a fellow pas- brief introduction to Morocco. The excursions sails from Marseille on 9-night trips in senger we’ve befriended, finds her cabin involved two long days. But visiting Morocco November. stewardess has drawn her a hot bath, sprin- has been a highlight of our Seabourn cruise.

Canadian World Traveller Spring 2019