Strathnaver Province Archaeology Project: Langdale, Grumbeg, Achadh an Eas & & the Tulloch Data Structure Report 2007

STRATHNAVER PROVINCE ARCHAEOLOGY PROJECT: LANGDALE, GRUMBEG, ACHADH AN EAS & & THE TULLOCH DATA STRUCTURE REPORT 2007

PROJECT 2406

carried out on behalf of Historic Scotland

Contents 1.0 Executive Summary 7

2.0 Introduction 7

3.0 Site Location and Topography 7

4.0 Archaeological Background 7

5.0 Aims and Objectives 9

6.0 Methodology 10

7.0 Results 11 7.1 Langdale 12 7.2 Achadh an Eas 13 7.3 Grumbeg 16 7.4 The Tulloch 18

8.0 Discussion 19

9.0 Recommendations 19

10.0 Acknowledgements 19

11.0 Bibliography 20

12.0 Gazetteer of Sites 21 12.1 Langdale 21 12.2 Achadh an Eas 24 12.3 Grumbeg 26 12.4 DES 28

List of Figures Figure 1: Site Location 6

Figure 2: Extract from the first edition OS map (1878) of Langdale 11

Figure 3: Extract from the first edition OS map (1878) of Achadh an Eas 15

Figure 4: Extract from the first edition OS map (1878) of Grumbeg 16

Figure 5: Survey Plan of The Tulloch with Contour Model 17

List of Plates Plate 1: Cluster B at Langdale, from the north-west; The Tulloch lies beyond the trees 13 by the farmstead in background to left

Plate 2: Longhouse in cluster G at Achadh an Eas, from the south-east 15

Plate 3: Longhouse GB 1 at Grumbeg

Project website: http://www.northsutherlandarchaeology.org.uk

This report is one of a series published by GUARD, Gregory Building, Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow, G12 8QQ

STRATHNAVER PROVINCE ARCHAEOLOGY PROJECT: LANGDALE, GRUMBEG, ACHADH AN EAS & THE TULLOCH DATA STRUCTURE REPORT 2007

PROJECT 2406

by Olivia Lelong and Amy Gazin-Schwartz

This document has been prepared in accordance with GUARD standard operating procedures.

Author: …………………………………………………………… Date: 30 November 2007 Dr Olivia Lelong

Approved: …………………………………………………………… Date: 30 November 2007 Dr John Atkinson

Project Pentland Firth 2406 Archaeological Survey

A838 Bettyhill

A836 Area shown to right Loch Eriboll Kyle of TongueTongue Orkney Islands

Lewis Loch Hope Strathnaver

Aberdeen Loyal Loch

Area shown below

Glasgow Edinburgh

Loch Naver

A836

Loch Haluim 871 Loch Loyal B

945000 mN Langdale A836 Loch Syre Tulloch Loch Syre Area of survey Syre Loch Coulside

B871

873 Allt Lon a' Chui

B Rosal

Loch Eileanach

940000 mN 940000 mN

Grumbeg

B873

A836

Grummore Loch Naver Achadh an Eas

a lla

rt R

B873 ive r

Altnaharra 935000 mN Cuire nam Feuran 2 2 2

Klebrig 60 65 70 000 mE 000 mE 000 mE

A836 Reproduced from OS 1:25 000 scale & Land-Line Plus by permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of 0 5 km Her Majesty's Stationary Office. All rights reserved. Licence number 100029241.

Figure 1: Site Location.

1.0 Executive Summary This reports presents the results of several surveys, which were carried out in 2007 as part of the Strathnaver Province Archaeology Project. The project has been designed to further understanding of Medieval rural settlement on a regional scale across northern Sutherland, to inform future management of this archaeological resource and to encourage heritage awareness and a local sense of historical identity in the region. The five-year project consists of a programme of walkover survey, topographic survey, geophysical survey, trial trenching and excavation of sites with high potential for evidence of Medieval settlement in two areas of the former Province of Strathnaver: in the parish of Durness, particularly around the village of Durness, and in the valley of Strathnaver in the parish of Farr. The 2007 season involved three walkover surveys in Strathnaver, in order to assess the potential of several township sites for evidence of chronological complexity and early structures. These assessments involved comparing the visible surface remains in the townships of Langdale, Grumbeg and Achadh an Eas to those recorded on the first edition Ordnance Survey maps and identifying potentially early features. Topographic survey and detailed recording were also carried out of The Tulloch at Langdale, a substantial, banked enclosure of possible Medieval date.

2.0 Introduction Rapid walkover surveys were carried out at three cleared townships in the valley of Strathnaver, in northern Sutherland: Langdale, Grumbeg and Achadh an Eas. The walkover surveys involved recording visible surface remains by means of sketches, written descriptions and photographs of selected features, and comparing them to features recorded on the first edition Ordnance Survey maps of the area. These were designed to inform assessment of the township sites’ potential for chronological complexity and phasing, as evident from the visible archaeology. Topographic survey of the earthwork known as The Tulloch, near Langdale, produced a contour model of this banked and ditched enclosure, which may be of Medieval date. Another phase of survey was also carried out at the township of Ceannabeinne, near Durness; the results of this are presented in a separate report (GUARD 2326).

3.0 Site Location and Topography The surveyed sites all lie in upper Strathnaver or around Loch Naver (Figure 1). Langdale, in the upper part of the river valley, stretches along the western side of the River Naver, mainly on the post-glacial terraces that line the valley (centred at NC 6976 4528). The Tulloch stands on the valley floor in the southern part of the township, immediately east of the B871, at NC 6972 4494. Achadh an Eas is farther up the strath, to the east of where the river flows from Loch Naver. It occupies undulating, north-facing slopes to the east of the Allt na H’Eilich, south of its confluence with the River Naver (centred at NC 6680 3713). Grumbeg lies on undulating, south-facing slopes on the north side of Loch Naver near its eastern end (centred at NC 6343 3845).

4.0 Archaeological Background The evidence identified so far for Medieval settlement in the Province of Strathnaver hints at continuity of occupation on particular sites from the Early Medieval or Norse periods onward. Fieldwork undertaken as part of the Strathnaver Province Archaeology Project in 2006 focused on the township of Klibreck, on the south side of Loch Naver (Lelong & Gazin-Schwartz 2007). Walkover survey there identified structures of possible early date or considerable longevity. Trial excavation of four of these structures found that two (structures 63 and 65) were relatively ephemeral, defined by turf and stone walls, but produced no dating evidence; another building, a longhouse (structure 51), had been abandoned during the life of the township. Although the evidence from these three was more negative than positive, it is certainly possible to argue that they had fallen out of use by the eighteenth century and so pre-date that period. Another longhouse (structure 46) proved more complex, producing evidence of a central hearth that had been rebuilt or replaced three times, and the probable rebuilding of the eastern wall. Coarse pottery associated with the second phase of hearth suggested a date in the sixteenth century, based on comparison to similar pottery found at Borralie as part of the same overall project (Lelong & Gazin- Schwartz 2006). Klibreck is a Norse place-name, and it is mentioned in charters from the late thirteenth century onward; it also contains an early Christian chapel site.

Given that the survey and trial trenching at Klibreck found variations in the surface remains that appeared to represent phasing in the township, it was decided to assess the potential of other township sites in Strathnaver for evidence of similar chronological complexity. The three township sites selected all have some evidence of early origins, while The Tulloch may have parallels in Medieval Ireland. It is likely that Norse farmers began to settle in Strathnaver from as early as the ninth century AD (Crawford 1987, 40-42), giving names to their farms and to features in the landscape, and farms may have been established at Langdale, Klibreck, Grumbeg, Rosal and elsewhere during that period. Several of the township sites in Strathnaver have names that are Norse in origin. The name ‘Langdale’ is one of these, meaning ‘long field’ (Waugh 2000, 17). This seems to refer to the topographic character of this part of Strathnaver, and also suggests that it occupied land that had been cleared and perhaps used for cultivation or grazing. Other Norse place names in the strath include Rosal, Klibreck and Grumbeg. Grumbeg was recorded in 1551 as Gnowb Litil (OPS 1855), which Watson (1926) sees as deriving from the ON gnúpr or ‘peak’. Both Grumbeg and its neighbour Grummore are associated with the side of a large hill immediately to the south of the townships. Some or all of the several chapel sites that line the strath have Medieval origins, but some may be much earlier, pre-dating the period of Norse settlement. For example, the chapel site at Skaill, to the north of Langdale, is dedicated to St. Maelrubha, the Irish monk who founded the monastery at Applecross and died in A.D. 722 (NMRS NC74NW 2). It contains an upright, cross-incised stone that may date to the seventh or eighth century (Henderson 1987). The chapel site at Grumbeg has produced two simple, cross-incised stones (Macdonald & Laing 1970, 134), and that at Klibreck contains two standing stones, one of which is incised with a cross. The dedications for the chapel sites at Langdale, Grumbeg and Klibreck are unknown, although there is a well, dedicated to St. Martin (Tobair Claish Mhartain), recorded as being ‘near Grumbeg burial place’ (Mackay 1914, 34; NMRS NC63NW 9). (St. Martin, founder of the monastery at Tours in the fourth century A.D., inspired St. Ninian’s mission to Britain in the fifth century (Hill 1997, 1-4)). The chapel sites at Langdale, Skail, Rivigill and Klibrek were described as old burial grounds or the sites of former chapels in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (OPS 1855, 708; Pennant 1774, 325-26). Although the Norse earls were not officially converted until the late tenth century, it is likely that some conversion of the general population took place before that, while pagan practice continued among many (Crawford 1987, 167-69). Crawford, while arguing that early Celtic dedications do not prove the existence of pre-Norse religious establishments, admits that the converted Norse were unlikely to have used the names of early saints such as Columba without some prompting by local tradition. If the chapel sites in the strath do pre-date the Norse, the fact that they endured into the Medieval period (as in the case of Farr, Rivigill, Grumbeg and Klibreck, and probably others as well) shows that the Norse did allow them to continue, and perhaps eventually claimed them as their own spiritually significant sites. The earliest known references to Langdale, Achadh an Eas and Klibreck (as well as Coire nam Feuran and Rosal) are in a document of 1269. This was a charter granting lands in upper Strathnaver to Mary de Moravia and Reginald de Cheyne. The document refers to an earlier charter, in which Mary’s mother, nobilis mulier domina Johanna (‘the noblewoman lady Johanna’ (Moray Reg no 126)), had given the lands to the Church of Moray. The documents make clear that tenemento de Strathnavyr was a holding in its own right, presumably defined in a charter that has not survived; it is not described as being in the lordship of either Caithness or Sutherland at that time. Crawford (2000, 3) suggests that when the earldom of Caithness and the newly-created earldom of Sutherland were granted out with feudal charters in the 1230s, Alexander II granted the tenemento of Strathnaver to Lady Johanna (also see Crawford 1985, 32-3). At this time it appears that Strathnaver consisted only of the parish of Farr, as the lands to the west were held by the Church, but by the sixteenth century the Province stretched at least as far westward as the Kyle of Durness. This period in the Province’s history was a pivotal one that saw control pass from the old Norse earls to the Scottish Crown, as a significant break in the earldom’s line of inheritance coincided with the Crown’s asserting its authority in the north via feudal grants of land to its vassals. Crawford (2000) provides an extremely useful account of the mechanisms for and nature of this transition. As part of it, Johanna was not only granted the tenemento of Strathnaver but also half of the earldom of Caithness; she was married to a member of the de Moravia family, to whom Alexander II had recently granted the newly-created earldom of Sutherland. The grants and the marriage ensured that the main royalist family in the north of Scotland controlled most of its lands. The identity and pedigree of Lady Johanna have exercised historians; some argue that she was a descendant of the earls of Orkney and Caithness (Skene 1880), while others suggest that she was a daughter of the prominent Celto-Norse Moddan family (Gray 1922, 111-12).

In any case, her inheritance of Strathnaver and marriage to Freskyn de Moravia brought it firmly within the Crown’s feudal control. Grumbeg is first mentioned in a 1291 letter of safe-conduct for John, Earl of Caithness and Orkney, to visit Edward I, which also mentions his valet, William of Grumbaig. He had been recently sent as a messenger to the king and returned to the earl with horses ‘and their furniture’ (Johnston & Johnston 1928, 60). That a man from Grumbeg was appointed the earl’s valet and representative before the king points to the existence of a noble seat at Grumbeg in the thirteenth century; this could lend weight to Gray’s (1922, 93) assertion that the Celto-Norse noble Moddan family were based in upper Strathnaver. It certainly supports the notion that the upper strath had some political significance at the time. Lady Johanna and her husband’s acquisition of Strathnaver as feudal overlords must have had implications for the tenants farming their estates, in terms of new tenurial arrangements and tenant-landlord relationships. Their landlords were now based in Moray, across difficult terrain, rather than in Orkney and within easy reach by sea (Crawford 2000, 8). Crawford notes the pairing of Rosal and Langwell (Langdale) and, in the light of the evident significance of upper Strathnaver and the granting of these farms in charters from the thirteenth century on (see below), argues that the names were connected to pasturing places for horses needed to pass between Strathnaver and Ross, via Lairg. The importance of this area, at least in the late Norse period (but even earlier, the place names would suggest), lay in its proximity to this crucial route. She argues that the special significance of the estates in the upper strath lay in their strategic uses: ‘After the diminution of the earls’ power, and the division of their north mainland possessions . . ., Upper Strathnaver may have become desirable as a strategic centre for new territorial lordships which were based on inland routes and waterways rather than maritime ones.’ The paired names Rosal and Langwell could, as noted above, indicate their importance as pasturing places for horses used to travel between Easter Ross and Strathnaver (see Crawford forthcoming). The banked enclosure at The Tulloch may relate to the importance of Langdale in this respect. It is not a broch, and its low position contrasts markedly with the locations of the known brochs in Strathnaver, which perch on the breaks of slope above the valley floor. It is roughly circular, defined by a ditch and a substantial earthen bank (NMRS NC64SE 30). A modern drystone wall has been built atop the bank, but there are traces of an original wall or revetment within it. It may have been a place where laws were decided or disputes resolved, as at Moot Hill in Kingussie. Mounds known as ‘tullochs’ are recorded in Ireland from the Medieval period, and they served as gathering places where justice was administered locally (Fitzpatrick 2001). The Tulloch’s proximity to the chapel site at Langdale could indicate that this locale was a seat of civil and ecclesiastical authority, which controlled movement along an important inland route during the late Norse period and into the Medieval period. Eventually, Johanna’s lands in upper Strathnaver were bestowed upon her grandson, Reginald le Cheyne III; his inheritance included four davochs of land in Strathnaver and rights to ‘Scottish service’ – that is, the right to claim military service from tenants on those lands (Barrow 1988b, 86). In 1269 the Church returned the lands in Johanna’s gift to him, on the condition that he make a yearly payment to Elgin Cathedral for the two chaplains’ maintenance, according to the terms of the original charter (OPS 1855, 715; Moray Reg. no. 263). That Reginald de Cheyne III’s name survived in upper Strathnaver is evident from a note in the Origines Parochiales Scotiae, which refers to ‘the town and lands of Auchnes [Achadh an Eas] in Straithnaver, of old called Kerrownaschein’ (OPS 1855, 708). This name endured until the early twentieth century, when Gray (1922, 110) recorded it and translated it as ‘Cheyne’s Quarter’. The early documents demonstrate that, certainly by the thirteenth century, Langdale, Klibreck, Achadh an Eas and Grumbeg were settlements with tenants whose surplus produce would have been due to their overlords. They may have begun as Norse farms, which were gradually brought within the system of feudal control that engendered the development of townships, or joint tenant farms, by the sixteenth century (Dodgshon 1998b). The townships discussed here continue to be mentioned in charters throughout the late Medieval and post-Medieval periods, and were all occupied up until their clearance for sheep walks by the Sutherland estate between 1807 and 1821.

5.0 Aims and Objectives The general aims of the project are:

• To provide regional and chronological characterisation of MoLRS remains in northern Sutherland, in order to identify those likely to be Medieval and inform management of MoLRS sites in the region. • To further understanding of the Medieval settlement pattern in the region, the role of Norse colonisation and cultural influence, and the development of townships.

The general aims of the 2007 fieldwork season in Strathnaver were: • To record the visible archaeological remains at three townships in Strathnaver (Langdale, Grumbeg and Achadh an Eas), in order to assess and record their potential for chronological complexity. • To record the possible Medieval mound known as The Tulloch in Strathnaver, in order to form an understanding of its character and record the extent of modern disturbance.

These aims were met through several specific objectives: • To record the visible archaeological remains at Langdale, Grumbeg and Achadh an Eas through rapid walkover survey. • To carry out topographic survey of The Tulloch in Strathnaver.

Additional aims and objectives included public outreach and training components; these were met during the survey phase at Ceannabeinne, the results of which are presented in a separate report.

6.0 Methodology The field methodology employed different scales of assessment for different sites. An initial visit to Langdale established that it appeared to have the best potential for chronological complexity, as well as reasonably good preservation and visibility. A decision was taken to focus on the southern half of the township and the most detailed assessment was carried out at this site, with individual structures and features measured and sketched, and their presence or absence on the first edition OS map noted. At Achadh an Eas, the entire township was walked; individual structures were measured, described and sketched, and their presence or absence on the first edition OS map was noted. However, heavy bracken cover over much of the ground prevented detailed examination of all areas. At Grumbeg, heavy bracken and heather cover also prevented detailed assessment of parts of the township, and the survey at this site focused on two main clusters at the centre of the settlement. The features making up these clusters were recorded in similar detail to those at Langdale. At all of the sites, photographs were taken of groups of features. The results from the assessment of Langdale and Grumbeg are presented as a feature-by-feature gazetteer according to cluster, while the results from Achadh an Eas are presented by cluster, with features grouped together and described more generally. It was originally planned to visit and assess a fourth township, at Coire nam Feuran. However, the complexity and extent of the archaeological remains at the other sites, along with the remote location of Coire nam Feuran, meant that this proved unfeasible within the time constraints of the project. The topographic survey of The Tulloch was carried out using a total station EDM from two temporary survey stations. Modern fence lines were recorded to assist with geo-referencing. The data were captured electronically and transferred to LisCAD v. 7.0 for processing, with final map production in AutoCAD 2005.

7.0 Results The following sections describe the general character of the three townships and the clusters of settlement remains that make them up. The descriptions refer to individual features and structures by number; each number is preceded by a two-letter code according to the township in which it was recorded (LD for Langdale, AE for Achadh an Eas and GB for Grumbeg). A description of The Tulloch is also included below. More detailed descriptions of features and clusters are given in the Gazetteer of Sites (section 12.0).

7.1 Langdale The walkover survey of Langdale covered the southern half of the area shown on the first edition OS map (1878) as lying within the head-dyke (Figure 2). It reached from the Langdale Burn at the southern end of the township, at approximately NC 692 449, to the burn that crosses it at NC 700 457. The survey recorded five main clusters of settlement remains, as well as the pre-Reformation chapel known as Cladh Langdale. The assessment of Langdale has shown that it has reasonably good potential for containing earlier features. Parts of the township have clearly been re-used and robbed for stone. According to Temperley (1977), when crofters were encouraged by the Sutherland estate to return to the strath in the early twentieth century, many exploited the abandoned remains of the old townships for stone they needed to build dykes and other structures. Other parts of the township are compromised by heavy bracken and gorse cover. However, some areas appear more promising. Cluster B, in particular, contains archaeological remains in varying states of preservation, and these seem to relate to different phases of use rather than wholly to robbing. For example, the small, rubbly outbuilding LD 26 appears to have been robbed for stone along parts of its walls, and wall LD 8 also appears to have been robbed; both are interrupted, spread and appear considerably disturbed. By contrast, the longhouse identified as LD 24 is very ephemeral on the ground, but appears much more coherent; its banks, although very low and spread, do not contain the gaps and irregularities that would indicate robbing. It may have been robbed during the township’s occupation, but does not appear to have been disturbed more recently. If it were already turf-covered and ephemeral by

the time of the Clearances or in the decades that followed, it may not have seemed an attractive source for stone. Cluster B is the largest and most complex of those recorded. It also lies closest to the chapel site and The Tulloch. The southern part of the head-dyke (LD 5) extends north-eastward from Langdale broch and loops around the cluster; an additional length of head-dyke (LD 9) branches off from this point toward the north-east, to enclose the other clusters, and it may be of a different phase. These factors together suggest that cluster B formed the original nucleus of the township, which later spread along the well- drained terraces to the north-east. The six main clusters are described below. Cluster A (centred at NC 6927 4497) lies around Langdale Broch. It consists of longhouse (LD 3) which was probably built using stones from the broch, and which shows no evidence of having been robbed. An enclosure (LD 2) lies to the west, on the far side of a small tributary burn leading down to Langdale Burn. Both lie in lee of the higher ground to the north. The longhouse is just within the head-dyke (LD 5), but the head-dyke appears to respect and abut the enclosure. It is possible, given the relative isolation of this cluster, its proximity to the broch and the enclosure’s relationship to the head-dyke, that it represents an earlier phase of settlement. Cluster B (centred at NC 6958 4518) extends along the undulating terrace behind (to the west of) the farmhouse and steading opposite The Tulloch, between the 50 m and 70 m countours (mainly between 55 and 60 m.) It comprises at least three sub-clusters of longhouses with associated enclosures and outbuildings: LD 16 and 17; LD 23, 24 and 25, and LD 8, 18 and 22. Other enclosures and outbuildings lie on the lower ground to the east (LD 19 and 26) and on the higher ground of the 60 m terrace (LD 6, 7 and 21). Most of the features appear on the first edition OS map. Several small burns cross the lower terrace, and some of these have been canalised, probably by twentieth-century crofters. On the 60 m terrace is a drystone enclosure (LD 21) which is fairly well preserved, with a tiny drystone tumbled structure (LD 6) to the north-east; these are in similar, well-preserved states, and may represent a sheep enclosure and bothy. A much denuded dyke (LD 7) runs downslope between them. These features lie under thick bracken cover. The features on the lower, undulating terrace behind the farmstead are in varying condition and lie for the most part under grass rather than bracken. LD 23, 24 and 25 form a coherent set of remains, consisting of a longhouse and two curvilinear enclosures that respect it and sit to either side on a low, flat-topped knoll. A burn, which has been canalized for drainage, runs along its south side. These three are fairly faint on the ground, consisting of low, turf-covered banks, especially the longhouse (LD 24). Another small enclosure with more stone apparent (LD 22) sits on a spur against the base of the slope to the north, and a T-shaped, very robbed-out length of walling (LD 8) on another spur and conjoining knoll to the north-east again. This forms the east side of a longhouse (LD 18), which was probably associated with the enclosure. A tiny, tumbled drystone structure (LD 26) lies farther to the NNE and, like LD 6, 7 and 21, may be of later, post-Clearance date. LD 23, 24 and 25 may represent a coherent farmstead of an earlier period, which was robbed for stone while the township was still occupied. It is possible that they were robbed out by nineteenth-century sheep farmers or twentieth-century crofters. However, their condition differs markedly from LD 26, which was partly robbed, and from LD 8, which now consists of intermittent stones. The banks comprising LD 23, 24 and 25 are well preserved, though low and ephemeral. It seems more likely that their banks were already turf-covered by the time of the township’s clearance and therefore not worth robbing afterwards. Cluster C (centred at NC 6985 4538) occupies narrow terraces in otherwise steep slopes between the 50 m and 60 m contours, above the floor of the strath. A deeply incised gorge containing a small burn separates the two main elements. These consist of a long, narrow longouse (LD 10) abutted by a yard (LD 11); both appear very robbed and both are shown on the first edition OS map. A drainage gully, apparently contemporary with the longhouse, runs behind it and leads to the burn. On the opposite side of the burn is a boulder-defined enclosure (LD 32) with a small structure (LD 33) tucked into one corner. The structure has a degraded concrete floor and has seen later use, but both it and the enclosure are shown on the first edition OS map. A tumbled drystone enclosure (LD 12) by the road may be later in date, relating to sheep farming. Two smaller buildings shown on the first edition OS map close to the road could not be located; these were probably disturbed or destroyed during construction of the modern cottage.

Plate 1: Cluster B at Langdale, from the north-west; The Tulloch lies beyond the trees by the farmstead in background to left.

Cluster D (centred at NC 6995 4559) extends along the 60 m terrace. It consists of a longhouse (LD 13) with a poorly preserved adjoining yard and an enclosure (LD 14) down slope to the east. Both are shown on the first edition OS map; the enclosure has been mostly destroyed by construction of the modern cottage and its yard. A deeply incised burn runs to the south of the longhouse. It is defined by substantial banks and does not appear to have been robbed. Two other structures are shown on the first edition OS map to the south of the burn, but these could not be located due to extremely thick gorse cover in that area. Cluster E (centred at NC 7004 4566) occupies a spur on a long, north-east facing slope, at and above the 50 m contour. It consists of a longhouse (LD 33), the walls of which are denuded and spread and have clearly been robbed for stone. A small outbuilding (LD 35) to the south has also been robbed, and another (LD 36) to the north-east was largely destroyed when the area was levelled for a cattle feeding station. Stones from the structure lie in a heap at the base of the bank below it. Another structure (LD 15) to the north-west may be represented by various banks and heaps, but has probably been disturbed by the modern track. These features all appear on the first edition OS map. Cluster F (centred at NC 6967 4531) consists of several features associated with township boundaries: the southern portion of the head-dyke (LD 5), its continuation to the north (LD 9), and two other sections of tumbled dyke (LD 27 and LD 30) that cross it. One of these (LD 30) extends beyond the head-dyke onto moorland, and could represent an earlier land division. Three small structures (LD 28, 29 and 31) could have been stores or perhaps low shielings. Most of these features are shown on the first edition OS map. Cluster G (at NC 69901 45207) consists solely of the chapel, Cladh Langdale.

7.2 Achadh an Eas The township of Achadh an Eas (or Auchness) sprawls over undulating, generally north- and east-facing ground, its extent defined by a ring-dyke shown on the first edition Ordnance Survey map of 1878 (Figure 3). Three large, conjoning, post-Clearance sheep enclosures, with a shepherd’s house and outbuildings, overlie the centre of the township. Most of the surviving settlement clusters lie to the east and south of these, with the remains of pre-Clearance field systems visible inside the enclosures. The walkover survey recorded nine main clusters of settlements remains. There are the remains of a large meeting house and a graveyard to the north of the township; these were not recorded in any detail during the survey.

The settlement clusters generally sit on knolls and terraces in the undulating ground within the ring-dyke, and most are set close to the dyke, as if to leave the central ground open for cultivation. It is possible, however, that some clusters of longhouses and outbuildings in the central part were completely destroyed by construction of the sheep enclosures and post-Clearance buildings. Based on the assessment, some suggestions about phasing can be made for Achadh an Eas. The clusters (A and B) at the northern end of the township may represent its later expansion; the buildings are of slightly different, more massive construction and their relationships to the ring-dyke would suggest they were added later. Some of those to the south, especially cluster D, appear more complex and well- established. Several features at the southern end in cluster H differ from the others: they include a tumbled drystone building with a yard that may have been a shepherd’s house, built after the township was cleared, and a small structure with a yard that may have belonged to a cottar. The nine main clusters are described below. Most of the features are depicted on the first edition OS map. Cluster A (NC 6695 3740 (centred)) occupies a north-facing slope at the northern end of the township. It consists of a longhouse (AE 3), corn-drying kiln (AE 1), a barn or other outbuilding (AE 2) and a large enclosure (AE 4). The relationship of this cluster to the ring-dyke suggests it is a late addition: The ring- dyke appears to curl around to the south of the cluster; the enclosure wall may have been added to extend the area within the ring-dyke to include the buildings. The structures are generally built of massive, sometimes orthostatic boulders, in contrast to the more rubbly construction of buildings in some of the other clusters. These all appear on the first edition OS map. Cluster B (NC 6702 3732 (centred)) lies on open ground to the south of cluster A, and consists of a single, very large, L-shaped longhouse (AE 5) and a barn or other outbuilding (AE 6). All are depicted on the first edition OS map. Again, very large and in some cases upright boulders were used in the construction of the longhouse, and of an adjacent dyke which extends to the ring-dyke. At Klibreck, a number of large, L-shaped longhouses have been interpreted as late additions to the township (Lelong & Gazin-Schwartz 2007). Cluster C (NC 6709 3730 (centred)) lies just south of a post-Clearance fence line that crosses the township, and consists of a longhouse (AE 7) and three barns or other outbuildings (AE 8, 9 and 10). The walls are generally rubbly and contain fewer massive boulders than those in clusters A and B. Two nearby enclosures (AE 11 and 12) may be associated with this cluster. The features appear on the first edition OS map. Cluster D (NC 6712 3694 (centred)) consists of a pair of longhouses (AE 13 and 18), which sit together within an enclosure along with four outbuildings (AE 14, 15, 16 and 19). Another enclosure (AE 17) lies adjacent to the cluster. Rubble characterises most of the walls. Both longhouses have distinctive, lower byre ends. All of the features appear on the first edition OS map. This cluster gives the impression of a coherent farmstead, one that was perhaps occupied by two families. The enclosures and yards that surround the buildings appear to segregate the cluster somewhat from the rest of the township, although it still lies within the ring-dyke. Cluster E (NC 6712 3693 (centred)) occupies a knoll to the south of cluster D. It consists of a longhouse (AE 20) with two enclosures (AE 21 and 22) and a field system defined by clearance cairns. The longhouse also has a distinctive lower byre end. The structures are depicted on the first edition OS map. Cluster F (NC 6701 3687 (centred)) sprawls over several knolls in the southern part of the township. It comprises a longhouse (AE 23), at least one outbuilding (AE 24) and a large enclosure (AE 25). The longhouse has boulder and rubble walls, with an open, lower byre end. The features appear on the first edition OS map. Cluster G (NC 6701 3674 (centred) lies at the southern end of the township, just within the ring-dyke. One of its longhouses (AE 26) is tucked just inside the dyke, with the other (AE 27) lying parallel close by. An outbuilding (AE 28) and enclosure (AE 29) are associated with the houses, and a field system with clearance cairns lies in the centre. Both longhouses have lower byre ends. All the structures are shown on the first edition OS map. Cluster H (NC 6673 3674 (centred) comprises several features that may date to different periods. A long, narrow structure with drystone rubble walls surviving up to seven courses high, with an adjacent enclosure (AE 30), may be of post-Clearance date. Its dimensions and character differ markedly from the other structures in the township, and it may have been occupied by a shepherd. A possible prehistoric kerbed

cairn (AE 31) lies close by to the east; a hollow at its centre suggests it was robbed for stone. The cluster also contains a sub rectangular structure (AE 33), of similar width and character to longhouses in the township but much shorter in length. It lies next to the remains of a yard. This could have been a cottar’s house – occupied by someone who possessed no cattle and did not need a byre, and who was allocated poorer, exposed land in the highest part of the township. The structures appear on the first edition OS map.

Plate 2: Longhouse in cluster G at Achadh an Eas, from the south-east.

Cluster I (NC 6666 3694 (centred) extends over the central part of the township, mainly inside and to the west of the large sheep enclosures. It consists of the remnants of field systems – banks and clearance cairns – that probably represent the township’s infield (AE 34). Among them lies a small structure (AE 35) with rounded ends, which could have been a small storehouse or shed associated with the fields.

7.3 Grumbeg The two clusters assessed at Grumbeg lie mainly between the 100 and 110 m contours. The two main clusters (A and B) surveyed are depicted on the first edition OS map of 1878 as lying to either side of a track that led up from the north side of Loch Naver (Figure 4). Two of the structures in these clusters are shown as roofed. Cluster A (NC 6337 3847 (centred) comprises two longhouses (GB 1 and 2) and another building (GB 3), all of which lie at the edges of or close to a large enclosure (GB 4). A small, sub oval structure or enclosure (GB 5) lies inside the larger one. The larger longhouse (GB 1) is very distinctive. It is defined by very low, ephemeral banks that define three compartments, but the central one is dominated by a massive upright boulder, c 2 m high. The long walls of the building (which may actually be two separate structures with the boulder standing between them) are distinctly bowed, especially toward the west. The building appears integral to the enclosure (GB 4). The other longhouse (GB 2) is of very similar dimensions. The third building (GB 3) has been robbed and disturbed, but this cannot be said with certainty of the other two; this appears to be the structure that was shown as roofed on the first edition OS map. A build-up of soil inside the enclosure suggests it was a kailyard. GB 1 and 4 are shown on the OS map, but GB 2 is not.

Cluster B (NC 6342 3855 (centred)) consists of a longhouse (GB 6) and a nearby enclosure (GB 7), with the possible remains of an adjacent enclosure (GB 8). All of these appear to have been robbed for stone.

16 Cladh Langdale Burial Ground

B 871

The Tulloch 47m

Broch

Shingle

Langdale River Naver Coille Reidh Loisgte

Old Burial Ground

50m Homestead 0 250 m Shingle

Major contours (2m intervals)

B 871

Minor contours (25cm intervals)

Revetment

Fence line

Wall

0 50 m

Figure 5: Survey Plan of the Tulloch with Contour Model.

One of the enclosures appears on the first edition OS map, but the longhouse does not. A structure to the west, shown as roofed on the map, is not now visible on the ground.

Plate 3: Longhouse GB 1 at Grumbeg.

Cluster C (NC 6346 3844 (centred)) consists of an enclosure defined by a substantial revetting wall (GB 9). Other fragments of possible walling were noted nearby, but they do not form coherent structures or enclosures. This part of the township appears to have been extensively robbed.

7.4 The Tulloch The topographic survey of The Tulloch has produced the first metrically accurate plan of the monument (Figure 5), which lies in a level pasture field, to the east of the B871 public road and a small farmstead. The largest settlement cluster (B) recorded in Langdale township lies to the west of the farmstead and road. The monument is sub circular in plan. It consists of a mound which is enclosed by a ditch on all sides except the north; the ditch is interrupted on the south. A steep bank runs around the perimeter of the mound, defining a central dished area that measures 23 m north-west/south-east by 19 m north/south. Overall, the central mound measures 40 m WNW/ESE by 42 m NNE/SSW. The edges of the mound and the surrounding ditch are best defined along the western arc. On the south and south-east, the mound drops away steeply to a more amorphous curvilinear depression; beyond this to the east the ground rises again to a small, natural knoll. In 1909, the RCAHMS recorded that the wall was being built from the bank material, which would indicate that the bank’s fabric consists of stone or earth and stone. The interior was also under cultivation at the time. The mound, bank and ditch are turf-covered. A well-constructed drystone wall runs along the top of the bank on the south-west, south and east. Along the inner face of the bank on the west and north-west arcs, traces of stone revetment are visible; these may be original to the monument. A linear heap of stone clearance at the northern end is probably of more recent date. A modern fence now skims the edge of the monument on the west and south. On the west, it runs along the top of the ditch’s outer edge; on the south, it crosses the ditch and cuts along the outer edge of the central mound. Where the fence crosses the ditch, a hint of a terminal is visible, and there may originally have been a causeway leading into the monument from this side; alternatively, the ditch was interrupted at this point but the bank always continued around the southern arc, as it does now. In any case, the ditch

has been ploughed out to the south of the fence. On the north, what appears to be a natural spur leads toward the mound and into an apparent entrance, flanked by the terminals of the bank on either side. It is likely that this entrance has been made wider by ploughing. The edges of the mound are defined by steep banks, which rise up to 2 m above the base of the ditch and drop for between 0.5 and 1 m (more steeply on the west) to the dished centre of the mound. The contour model shows that this central area rises slightly toward the middle north.

8.0 Discussion The surveys allowed assessment of the archaeological potential of three township sites – Langdale, Grumbeg and Achadh an Eas – for traces of Medieval or Norse settlement components, or at least of remains pre-dating their latest, eighteenth-century occupation. Of the three, Langdale seems to exhibit the most complexity and the best potential for further investigation, particularly in cluster B. This cluster, the largest of those recorded, contains the remains of what may be earlier structures that fell out of use during the occupation of township (particularly the longhouse GB 24). It also lies closest to what were arguably the paired sites of ecclesiastical civil and authority in the upper strath – Cladh Langdale and The Tulloch. These possible earlier features identified lie under short grass rather than bracken, and so the sub surface archaeological remains will not have been damaged by bracken rhizomes. The survey of Grumbeg found that, of the three clusters examined, one has some potential for containing early features. In particular, the longhouses in cluster A (GB 1 and 2) are relatively ephemeral, and one (GB 1) has bowed sides, which might hint at an earlier origin than the large, squared longhouses of eighteenth-century date noted elsewhere. However, the condition of the structures may be due more to post-Clearance robbing than to antiquity. Much of the rest of the township lies under thick bracken, which will have caused damage to sub surface remains. The survey of Achadh an Eas identified little evidence for potentially early features, although it did find evidence for how the township had expanded and for the amalgamation of separate farmsteads within the ring-dyke. Of the clusters surveyed, those to the south seem to be earlier, while those to the north appear to have been added on and the ring-dyke extended to include them. The extent of bracken cover in this township and the construction of large sheep enclosures in the heart of the settlement mean that the archaeological remains have probably been more drastically compromised here. The survey of The Tulloch produced a detailed, metrically accurate record of what could be an important Medieval monument in upper Strathnaver. While the enclosure has been somewhat damaged by ploughing and the construction of a wall over it, it appears to be well preserved in places. Invasive investigation would be needed to assess the preservation and date of deposits and features relating to its use.

9.0 Recommendations Based on the results of the surveys, Langdale and The Tulloch appear to have the best potential for further archaeological investigation. It is recommended that geophysical survey be carried out over the complex of enclosures and longhouse (LD 23, 24 and 25) at Langdale and over the interior and north exterior of The Tulloch, in order to identify hearths, structural elements and other features that might relate to earlier phases of use. Based on the results of the geophysical survey, trial trenches could be opened over the longhouse (LD 24) and The Tulloch, and possibly in other areas as well, to evaluate the character, date and preservation of the features, and any evidence for different phases of use and re-use. A focus on the paired sites of Langdale township and The Tulloch would allow a more in-depth study of the potentially early township nucleus and an associated seat of civil authority, which could be set in their historical context of the Medieval Province of Strathnaver.

10.0 Acknowledgements The project was funded and monitored by Historic Scotland and managed for GUARD by Heather James. John Arthur prepared Figure 1, and Charlotte Francoz processed the survey data and produced

Figure 5. Thanks to Aileen Maule, John Kiely and Jen Cochrane for providing technical and administrative support.

11.0 Bibliography Bangor-Jones, M (ed) 2000 Population Lists of Strathnaver, Strathy and Strath Halladale 1667-1811. Dundee: The Assynt Press.

Batey, C E 1993 ‘The Viking and Late Norse Graves of Caithness and Sutherland’ In Batey, C E, Jesch, J & Morris, C D (eds), The Viking Age in Caithness, Orkney and the North Atlantic Edinburgh: Edinburgh Univ Press, 148-72.

Brady, K B & Morris, C D 1998 Sutherland Coastal Survey University of Glasgow Department of Archaeology Report.

Brady, K B, Lelong, O & Batey, C in prep Excavations at Sangobeg, Sutherland. University of Glasgow Department of Archaeology Report.

Crawford, B E & Ballin-Smith, B 1999 The Biggings, Papa Stour, Shetland: The history and excavation of a royal Norwegian farm. Edinburgh : Society of Antiquaries of Scotland and Det Norske Videnskaps- Akademi.

Darwood, D 1995 Scotland's Place-Names. Edinburgh: The Mercat Press.

Dodgshon, R A 1998 ‘The evolution of Highland townships during the medieval and early modern periods’ in Landscape History 20, 51-63.

Jamieson, R (ed) 1974 Burt’s Letters from the North of Scotland. Edinburgh: John Donald.

Johnston, J B 1934 The Place Names of Scotland. John Murray, London.

Lelong, O 2003 ‘Medieval (or later) Settlement in the Highlands and Islands: The case for optimism’ In S Govan (ed), Medieval or Later Rural Settlement in Scotland: 10 Years On. Edinburgh: Historic Scotland.

Lelong, O & MacGregor, G 2003 Loch Borralie, Kyle of Durness: An Archaeological Survey. GUARD Report 950.

Lelong, O & MacGregor, G 2004 ‘Gallant Country of Corn: Making sense of a multi-period landscape on the Kyle of Durness, Sutherland’ In E Carver & O Lelong (eds), Modern Views – Ancient Lands: New Work and Thought on Cultural Landscapes. Oxford: Archaeopress.

Low, D M, Batey, C E & Gourlay, R 2000 ‘A Viking Burial at Balnakeil, Sutherland.’ In Baldwin (ed) 2000, 24-34.

MacGregor, G 2003 ‘Excavation of an Iron Age burial mound, Loch Borralie, Durness, Sutherland.’ Scottish Archaeological Internet Reports: SAIR 9.

MacKay, A 1906 The Book of MacKay. Edinburgh: Norman MacLeod.

Pollard, T 2005 ‘The Excavation of Four Caves in the Geodha Smoo, Durness.’ Scottish Archaeological Internet Reports: SAIR 18.

Reid, R W K, David, G & Aitken, A 1968 ‘Prehistoric Settlement in Durness’, in Proc Soc Antiq Scot (1966-67), 21-53.

Waugh, D 2000 A Scattering of Norse Names in Strathnaver. In Baldwin (ed) 2000, 13-23.

12.0 Gazetteer of Sites 12.1 Langdale For the individually recorded features at Langdale, the descriptions of features given below are grouped together according to cluster.

Cluster: A Feature: LD 1 NGR: NC 69460 44857 Description: Fragmentary linear scatter of boulders on level ground SW of farmstead. Possible robbed out wall. Scatter of boulders along S. side of same field, further to S and W, are probably clearance.

Cluster: A Feature: LD 2 NGR: NC 69175 44950 Description: Enclosure defined by turf and stone banks, on slightly sloping ground. The enclosure follows W bank of tributary burn to W of broch and line of modern fence around three sides. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: A Feature: LD 3 NGR: NC 69297 44971 Description: Longhouse with two internal dividing walls forming three compartments. Two entrances on S. side. Much tumbled. At base of and to E of Langdale broch, on narrow level ground which slopes steeply to S, just to S of modern deer fence. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: A Feature: LD 4 NGR: NC 69226 45080 Description: Narrow (2 m wide) track, terraced into slope and winding up through township. Slight stone banks flank it intermittently. Runs through head dyke and stonework extends either side to E. for c. 2-3 m. Gap appears original; track may have led to sheilings? Still in use.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 6 NGR: NC 69542 45250 Description: Small sub rectangular structure defined by thick drystone tumbled wall base. Measures c 4 m x 3 m. Under bracken. Entrance to SE. At base of knoll on ground rising steeply to NW. Does not appear on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 7 NGR: NC 69535 45235 Description: Very diffuse wall composed of intermittent boulders. Runs downslope N/S, to SW of LD 6. Does not appear on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 8 NGR: NC 69620 45196 Description: Very diffuse T-shaped walling running along low spur; another section runs perpendicular obliquely across knoll at E end of spur. Composed of intermittent boulders; appears robbed. LD 18 abuts it on SW. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 16 NGR: NC 69557 45077 Description: Ephemeral structure defined by very low, turf-covered and interrupted banks. Longhouse, running NE/SW on terrace sloping to E in grass. A deeply incised gully/entrenched stream runs beside it on N and W, with only a trickle of water. Longhouse measures c 17 m x 5 m externally. It appears robbed, perhaps in antiquity – very indistinct. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 17 NGR: NC 69539 45113 Description: Enclosure abutting longhouse LD 16 on NW, defined by low, turf-covered, interrupted stony banks, very spread. Measures c. 28 m SE/NW; other dimensions too indistinct to define. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 18 NGR: NC 69612 45213 Description: Ephemeral remains of sub rectangular structure measuring 15 m x 4 m externally, running NNW/SSE. Runs along top of narrow spur extending from base of natural scarp, with denuded boulder wall LD 8 abutting it on E. Defined by low, turf-covered banks with stone visible in a few places. Gap midway along W long wall. One large boulder at NW corner. Longhouse, probably associated with enclosure LD 22. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 19 NGR: NC 69672 45183 Description: Sub square enclosure defined by low turf-covered banks in grass on small terrace on E facing slope. Measures 11 m NE/SW x 13 m. Below the spur on which longhouse LD 18 sits, and E of modern fence. Encloses small knoll: ground rises steeply inside enclosure on the NE corner. A few boulders visible in bank. Entrance in SW. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 21 NGR: NC 69516 45227 Description: Enclosure on knoll at edge of E-facing gentle slope, sloping steeply to E. Sub circular boulder wall, three courses high in places. In thick bracken and grass. No certain entrance – opening by large boulder to SW seems to be defined by tumble. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 22 NGR: NC 69588 45197 Description: In bracken and grass, at base of steep E-facing slope below LD 21, is a linear feature defined by large boulders. Forms the W side of sub rectangular feature defined by low turf and boulder bank enclosing sloping ground above boggy ground. Boulder wall runs N/S with enclosure to E of it. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 23 NGR: NC 69565 45155 Description: In grass on level ground to SE of enclosure LD 22, turf banks define sub rectangular feature. E wall of feature is ephemeral; S wall includes upcast from field drains. A small feature is shown in this approximate position on first edition OS map, but does not seem to correspond to the enclosure.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 24 NGR: NC 69576 45148 Description: Sub rectangular structure just to east of LD 23, defined by low turf-covered banks. Some stone apparent under the turf. Approximately 16 m N/S x 4 m externally, with one dividing wall in interior. Probable longhouse. To NE, very denuded, low, turf-covered interrupted banks extend 25 m x 5.5 m, possibly representing a byre end; very ephemeral and possibly robbed out in antiquity Possible byre end is slightly dished in interior. Appears on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 25 NGR: NC 69582 45134 Description: Turf-covered stony banks form D-shaped enclosure running from SW corner of longhouse LD 24 and ending in broad gap to E of longhouse. A flat, grassy area to the E, E of modern fence, includes 3+ clearance cairns and there is a sharp break in slope leading down to boggy ground. May appear on first edition OS map, but in somewhat different shape and size.

Cluster: B Feature: LD 26 NGR: NC 69653 45229 Description: In grass on N/S aligned knoll, N of longhouse LD 24, is a sub rectangular structure defined by turf-covered stone footings; stones in N and S ends are visible (perhaps augmented by later clearance?). E and W walls consist of low, stony turf banks. Approximately 9 m N/S x 3 m externally. Rushes and bog to E. Outbuilding; appears on first edition OS map.

Cluster: C Feature: LD 9 NGR: NC 69756 45351 to 69956 45709 Description: Very tumbled drystone dyke, partly turfed over. Very disturbed at junction with (LD 27)/(LD 5) and robbed out or disturbed by track. Very denuded as it continues upslope to NNE from track. Boulders/facing visible intermittently, but for most part the feature consists of a low turf bank. This is a continuation of the head-dyke (LD 5); shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: C Feature: LD 10 NGR: NC 69839 45362 Description: On a narrow terrace in slope between 50 m and 60 m contours. Very long, narrow sub- rectangular structure, 20 m NE/SW x 4 m externally. Defined by low turf-covered banks. Boulders visible in places along walls and at SW end (corners), and other boulders lie scattered outside along all line on E. 3-4 possible compartments defined by very faint turf-covered banks. Gully bordered on NW by upcast bank runs along back of structure and continues along to small burn running downslope. Two possible entrances in SE, facing out toward chapel and valley floor. Walls appear spread, denuded and disturbed, probably robbed. There are gaps in the banks. NE corner abuts LD 11. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: C Feature: LD 11 NGR: NC 69856 45376 Description: Very denuded, disturbed enclosure, incorporating orthostat, measuring 21 m NE/SW x 6 m externally. Abuts longhouse LD 10 at NW corner. Does not appear on first edition OS map.

Cluster: C Feature: LD 12 NGR: NC 69923 45432 Description: Sub square enclosure, defined by tumbled drystone wall, surviving to c 1 m high in places. Two mature deciduous trees grow inside it. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: C Feature: LD 32 NGR: NC 69856 45414 Description: In grass, thistles and rushes is sub rectangular enclosure defined by boulder and rubble walls, most clearly on the N end. To N of a small burn that separates this feature from the longhouse LD 10. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: C Feature: LD 33 NGR: NC 69859 45402 Description: Within enclosure LD 32 is a small, square structure with broken concrete flooring and boulder foundations; the S wall is most visible, N wall only rubble and E and W walls spreads of rubble and concrete. Possible entrance on SW corner and on W side, where a rusted metal door socket lies in concrete. This appears to represent modern re-use of an older feature (LD 32). Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: D Feature: LD 13 NGR: NC 69967 45616 Description: Sub rectangular structure defined by substantial (0.3 m – 0.4 m above level of interior) stony turf-covered bank. Three compartments – two smaller ones toward SW, one larger one downslope toward NE. Approx 22 m NE/SW x 5 m wide externally. Modern fence runs directly behind and parallel to it. Under bracken and grass. Sits on natural terrace at base of long slope leading down from the 70 m countour. Below, ground levels out onto level terrace at 60 m contour. At SW end, a large boulder defines part of an outshot enclosure, otherwise difficult to discern. Entrances look SE across floor of strath. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: D Feature: LD 14 NGR: NC 69991 45578 Description: Turf-covered bank running immediately W of and parallel to modern fence around cottage. Remnant of enclosure depicted on first edition OS map.

Cluster: E Feature: LD 34 NGR: NC 70023 45666 Description: Sub rectangular structure defined by low, turf-covered stony banks. Longhouse. Appears robbed out, especially at ENE end which is difficult to define. No visible entrance or dividing walls. Approximately 12 m ENE/SSW x 4 m externally. On flat top of a knoll, in grass, thistle and bracken, below higher bracken-covered spur, and just above road with a small burn to the N and modern fence to the S. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: E Feature: LD 35 NGR: NC 70037 45635 Description: To SW of LD 34, in thick bracken and thistles next to the road. Small sub square structure defined by low boulder and turf banks. W wall most clearly visible as turf-covered bank. Outbuilding associated with LD 34. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: E Feature: LD 36 NGR: NC 70048 45676 Description: Another small outbuilding shown on OS first edition map in a cluster with LD 34 and LD 35 is not now visible, probably destroyed by clearance and enbankment for livestock feeding station. Some remnants of very low banks are visible, but impossible to tell if these belonged to a structure.

Cluster: E Feature: LD 15 NGR: NC 70012 45690 Description: Scattered along N side of burn gully are several short lengths of turf-covered stony bank. One could be remnant of small building shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: F Feature: LD 5 NGR: NC 69203 44991 to 69560 45375 Description: Head dyke, 0.6 m wide originally, tumbled/spread for the most part. 1-2 courses of boulders with smaller rubble core/packing. Under thick grass. Follows modern fence along S portion. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: F Feature: LD 27 NGR: NC 69744 45258 Description: Linear structure, parallel to modern fence line and running roughly E/W up the slope – shown as field boundary on OS first edition map. Composed of turf and boulders, much covered by bracken. Connects with the head-dyke (LD 5). Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: F Feature: LD 28 NGR: NC 69636 45307 Description: Small rectangular feature in deep bracken and grass. E of (and abuts) head-dyke LD 5. Defined by boulder footings. Marked on OS first edition map, just E of point where head-dyke makes sharp turn to N.

Cluster: F Feature: LD 29 NGR: NC 69618 45259 Description: Length of stone and turf bank/walling, possibly defining ovoid structure. Wall is visible in deep bracken only at SE corner; impossible to define NW end. Located to S of structure LD 28 on high knoll W of LD 26. Length of wall visible measures 2 m N/S x 4 m E/W. ?Sheiling (just within head-dyke) or store. Shown on first edition OS map.

Cluster: F Feature: LD 30 NGR: NC 69577 45389 Description: Linear feature defined by boulders running E/W downslope from sharp corner of head dyke to S of small stream. In thick bracken and grass. Another line of bank extends to NW from the bend in the head-dyke; could indicate earlier land division respected by head dyke. Does not appear on first edition OS map.

Cluster: F Feature: LD 31 NGR: NC 69742 45307 Description: Small sub rectangular structure in dense bracken and grass, defined by low turf and stone banks. Modern track runs alongside N end. On level ground sloping steeply down to E and S, and sloping gently to W. Feature is shown on first edition OS map inside corner of head dyke, N of modern fence and N of point where wall LD 30 runs down from head dyke.

Cluster: G Feature: LD 37 NGR: NC 69901 45207 Description: Sub triangular enclosure defined by random rubble drystone revetting wall, fairly well built and generally in good condition. Ground in interior is generally level with top of revetment, and slopes down from NE to SW. Under bracken and grass. On SE and E, a narrow terrace runs along exterior before ground drops away steeply to level ground beside the river. A rowan tree grows inside enclosure near NE corner.

12.2 Achadh an Eas Cluster: A Features: AE 1, 2, 3 and 4 NGR: NC 6695 3740 (centred) Description: On sloping ground at the northern end of the settlement, in bracken and grass, on north- facing slope. Cluster A includes the remains of a corn-drying kiln (AE 1) and a barn (AE 2), both aligned downslope; a longhouse (AE 3) aligned along the slope and apparently tacked onto an enclosure (AE 4). The longhouse is sub rectangular in plan. Buildings are constructed of boulders, some quite massive and orthostatic, generally just one course visible with little tumble (so this may be the original height of the stone footings). The longhouse lies within the enclosure, with a kailyard and outbuilding at the edge of the enclosure. This cluster could represent a later extension of the settlement, as the enclosure wall extends the terminal of the ring-dyke. Most of the features appear on the first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Features: AE 5 and 6 NGR: NC 6702 3732 (centred) Description: This cluster comprises one longhouse (AE 5) and a barn (AE 6), in grass and rushes on level ground to the SE of cluster A. The ground slopes down from here to the W and N. Buildings are constructed of boulders, with some tumble, now 1-2 courses high (visible); the barn has a possible dividing wall, creating two compartments. The longhouse is very long, with two compartments plus an L- shaped extension at the SW end. Walls are defined by boulder footings, some massive and orthostatic; three courses high where they comprise smaller stones, with little tumble. It measures 28 m NE/SW (up to the L extension) x 5.5 m externally. Possible entrance in N wall. A dyke built of boulders and massive orthostats runs from the SE end of the longhouse towards the ring-dyke. The features are shown on the first edition OS map.

Cluster: C Features: AE 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 NGR: NC 6709 3730 (centred) Description: This cluster comprises one longhouse (AE 7) and three outbuildings or barns (AE 8, 9 and 10) on grass- and bracken-covered E-facing knoll. Buildings are of rubbly construction, with fewer massive boulders than in clusters A and B. Longhouse measures 27 m E/W x 5 m wide externally, with 3- 4 compartments. This cluster lies to the W of the ring-dyke and S of modern fence that crosses the township. One barn (AE 8) has opposing openings on N and S sides. Two enclosures or yards (AE 11 and 12) to the E probably form part of this cluster. The features appear on the first edition OS map.

Cluster: D Features: AE 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19 NGR: NC 6712 3694 (centred) Description: This lies to the S of cluster C and includes two longhouses (AE 13 and 18) and at least three outbuildings (AE 14, 15 and 16), as well as a kailyard or enclosure (AE 17) on a N-facing knoll. A small lambing pen is built into the S end of the longhouse, which measures 26 m N/S by 5 m externally and lies in dense bracken. The longhouse is constructed of rubble and boulders, with three courses visible at S end of longhouse. It has three compartments; and there is a change in level at the byre (N) end. A second longhouse (AE 18) lies in dense bracken on the next knoll to the west. It is defined by substantial walls with an open byre end, very overgrown with bracken; it measures 25 m x 4 m externally, narrower than others in the township. Walls are 2 courses high, quite rubbly, with no massive boulders visible. It has three compartments with a lower byre end. One outbuilding (AE 19) is associated with this longhouse. These two longhouses seem to share the same enclosure, defined by partly encircling walls. These features, along with the modern fence line, are depicted on the OS first edition map.

Cluster: E Features: AE 20, 21 and 22 NGR: NC 6712 3693 (centred) Description: This cluster occupies a knoll to the SW of cluster D, in bracken and grass. It includes one longhouse (AE 20), an enclosure or kailyard (AE 21) and a second enclosure (AE 22), along with a field system to the N of enclosures containing large clearance cairns. The longhouse measures 28 m E/W x 5 m externally. It is composed of substantial stony walls at least 2-3 courses high, with three compartments and a lower, open byre end at the E. The ground slopes steeply away below byre end. An enclosure (AE 21) lies to the NW of the longhouse in thick bracken, with a second enclosureand field system (22) is further to the NW. Most of the features are shown on the first edition OS map.

Cluster: F Features: AE 23, 24 and 25 NGR: NC 6701 3687 (centred) Description: This cluster includes on longhouse (AE 23), at least one outbuilding (24) and at least one substantial enclosure (AE 25). It sprawls over bracken-covered knolls just N of the ring-dyke, at the S end of the township. The longhouse lies just below a craggy outcrop knoll, and measures 27 m N/S x 5 m wide externally, with an open, lower byre end. It may have three compartments, though details are obscured by vegetation. The boulder and rubble walls are at least two courses high. To the E of the longhouse are 2 large clearance cairns, moss-covered. An enclosure (AE 25) and barn (AE 24) lie upslope from the longhouse. Another outbuilding, shown on the first edition OS map but not visible in vegetation, may lie to the E. Cluster: G Features: AE 26, 27, 28 and 29 NGR: NC 6701 3674 (centred) Description: On relatively level top of a knoll immediately NE of the ring-dyke under grass, this cluster includes two longhouses (AE 26 and 27), an outbuilding (AE 28) and an enclosure (AE 29). A cleared area fringed with clearance cairns lies to the N of the buildings, between the longhouses and the enclosure. The ground slopes gently to the N. Longhouse AE 26 abuts the ring-dyke, and is defined by rubble wall footings 1-2 courses high. It measures 32 m E/W x 5 m externally with entrance in the byre end. It has three compartments. The second longhouse (AE 27) lies parallel to the first, approximately 10 m to NE, and is defined by rubble footings 1-2 courses high. Measures 24 m E/W x 4.5 m externally, with two or three compartments. An outbuilding (AE 28) lies against the ring-dyke. A substantial enclosure (AE 29) lies to the N between this cluster and cluster F, and may have been associated with either cluster (or both). On the NW-facing slope to the NW of the cluster is a field system fringed by clearance cairns. Some of these features appear on the first edition OS map.

Cluster: H Features: AE 30, 31, 32 and 33 NGR: NC 6673 3674 (centred) To the WNW of cluster G is an upstanding, roofless, rectangular structure and attached yard (AE 30). The walls are of drystone rubble, standing 5-7 courses high, with a possible window opening in the ESE wall. Measures c 11 m x 3 m externally. The N end wall is missing; a short stretch of tumble suggests it was removed and piled away from the NE corner of the building. The building may be a post-Clearance

house or shepherd’s bothy. To the E of this building is a possible robbed-out cairn (31). Rubble is apparent in its fabric and there is a possible semi-circular kerb around the N end. A hollow area in centre may indicate robbing. To the W is a large rectangular structure, very tumbled, with rubble walls and an attached enclosure defined by low rubble walls (AE 33). Lies in grass and some bracken on slightly sloping NW-facing ground, just W of the field system noted under cluster G. This may have been a cottar’s houses, inhabited by people given land on the edges of the township who possessed no cattle (so the house did not need a byre). Both buildings seem to appear on the first edition OS map. To the W of these structures lies another enclosure (AE 33) defined by very low turf-covered banks, in bracken and grass; at the NW corner of this enclosure, outside it, is a pile of rubble that may be a clearance cairn or very tumbled building. In grass on level N-facing ground to the W of the large modern sheep enclosure is a small building (AE 34) defined by low rubble walls, rounded at both ends. Measures 8 m x 4 m.

Cluster: I Features: AE 34 and 35 NGR: NC 6666 3694 (centred) Description: On the N- to NW-facing slopes inside the nineteenth-century sheepfold and the modern fenced enclosure that abuts it on the SW is an extensive field system (AE 34), with linear banks of clearance defining edges of fields and some individual clearance cairns. A small, sub rectangular, very denuded structure (AE 35) with rounded S end sits just W of sheepfold near its NW corner among these – possibly earlier.

12.3 Grumbeg Cluster: A Feature: GB 1 NGR: NC 63361 38476 Description: A longhouse, defined by low turf-covered stony banks with a massive (nearly 2 m high) boulder in the middle of the building. Structure measures 26 m NW/SE externally, with three compartments of 10 m, 9 m and 6 m (from W to E). E compartment has rushes growing in its E end. The massive boulder stands in middle of the middle compartment. Building has rounded W end and a bow to the S side wall. Entrances seem to lead to the N, though intermittent nature of walls makes certain definition of entrances difficult. Some boulders are visible in both the N and S walls. This structure may have been robbed, or may have had a large turf component. It is partly depicted on the first edition OS map.

Cluster: A Feature: GB 2 NGR: NC 63358 38488 Description: To NW of GB 1 is another probable longhouse, defined by ephemeral, low, turf-covered banks with some stones visible, especially in the N wall. Measures 25 m E/W x 5 m externally. Ends are difficult to define. Rushes growing to N, inside N wall and at E end. At the E end a natural mound rises behind the structure, covered in rushes. This structure may have been robbed, or may have had a large turf component. This feature is not shown on the first edition OS map.

Cluster: A Feature: GB 3 and 4 NGR: NC 63389 38475 Description: A possible longhouse or outbuilding (GB 3) at the SE corner of enclosure GB 4 is defined by low turf-covered banks. Measures 13 m NE/SW x 5 m externally. Two possible compartments. Substantial slab-built walls survive to 3 courses in the SW end; this wall seems to divide compartments and may overlie wall of adjacent enclosure. Three orthostatic slabs are visible, one possibly defining entrance; the others in the middle of the house, one in the N face of the substantial wall. Lots of rubble and boulders in the interior, and poorly defined NE end wall. The walls to NE appear to have been robbed, with stones pulled out and moved around. Depicted on first edition OS map.

Cluster: A Feature: GB 4 NGR: NC 6336 3847 (centred) Description: Enclosure measuring 30 m NE/SW by 23 m externally. Defined by boulder-revetted banks on S side. Interior almost 2 m higher than ground to S and 1 m higher than ground to W. Abuts SW corner of longhouse GB 1. Depicted on first edition OS map.

Cluster: A Feature: GB 5 NGR: NC 63372 38482 Description: A small, sub oval enclosure defined by low turf-covered stony banks abuts longhouse GB 1 on the S near its E end. It measures 9 m N/S x 7 m externally. Possible entrance on S. Rushes fill the middle of the enclosure. Sparse stone visible. This may appear on the first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: GB 6 NGR: NC 63434 38577 Description: Possible longhouse defined by very low, intermittent banks with occasional boulders visible. Measures 19 m E/W x 4.5 m externally. Walls are very ephemeral with many gaps. E end is most well defined. Ground slopes away over outcrop to E and SE, and rises to craggy knoll to the W. May have been robbed to build later, more upstanding outbuilding or bothy nearby. Does not appear on first edition OS map.

Cluster: B Feature: GB 7 NGR: NC 6343 3856 (centred) Description: An enclosure defined by a D-shaped stony turf-covered bank with boulders visible, 30 m E/W x 22 m. Entrance in SE corner. Some boulders inside. Under grass and rushes. Bank is well defined on all sides. This appears on first edition OS map. An adjacent enclosure shown on the map to the SW is not now visible on the ground.

Cluster: B Feature: GB 8 NGR: NC 63439 38539 Description: Length of walling extending into rushes from S side of enclosure GB 7. No other walls visible, but possibly obscured by rushes.

Cluster: C Feature: GB 9 NGR: NC 63464 38444 Description: An enclosure defined by a D-shaped boulder wall, enclosing and revetting area of of flat ground, now covered mostly in rushes. Some boulders are massive. Wall acts as a revetment across the slopes, creating a terrace inside. Wall is 3 courses high, though tumbled, turf-covered and rubbly in most places.

12.4 DES LOCAL AUTHORITY: Highland Council PROJECT TITLE/SITE Langale, Grumbeg and Achadh an Eas townships and The Tulloch, NAME: Strathnaver PROJECT CODE: 2173 PARISH: Farr NAME OF O Lelong CONTRIBUTOR: NAME OF GUARD ORGANISATION: TYPE(S) OF PROJECT: Walk-over survey, topographic survey NMRS NO(S): NC64SE 30; NC63NW 6; NC64NE 2; NC63NE 5 SITE/MONUMENT Townships; ?Medieval earthwork TYPE(S): SIGNIFICANT FINDS: - NGR (2 letters, 8 or 10 figures) NC 6972 4494; NC 6976 4528; NC 6680 3713; NC 6343 3845

START DATE (this season) 18 July 2007 END DATE (this season) 23 July 2007 PREVIOUS WORK (incl. DES ref.) MAIN (NARRATIVE) Rapid walkover surveys were carried out at three cleared townships in the DESCRIPTION: upper reaches of the valley of Strathnaver: Langdale, Grumbeg and (May include information from Achadh an Eas. The walkover surveys involved recording visible surface other fields) remains by means of sketches, written descriptions and photographs of selected features, and comparing them to features recorded on the first edition Ordnance Survey maps of the area. These were designed to inform an initial assessment of the township sites’ potential for early features, chronological complexity and phasing. Topographic survey of the earthwork known as The Tulloch, near Langdale, was also carried out. This produced a contour model of the banked and ditched enclosure, which may be of Medieval date. The work was carried out as part of the ongoing Strathnaver Province Archaeology Project.

PROPOSED FUTURE - WORK: CAPTION(S) FOR - ILLUSTRS: SPONSOR OR FUNDING Historic Scotland BODY: ADDRESS OF MAIN GUARD, Gregory Building, Lilybank Gardens, University of Glasgow, CONTRIBUTOR: Glasgow, G12 8QQ EMAIL ADDRESS: [email protected] ARCHIVE LOCATION Archive to be deposited in NMRS. (intended/deposited) Report lodged with Highland Council SMR, NMRS and Historic Scotland.