exofen:Layout 1 3/21/08 12:29 PM 1 Texts (in Greek): Katerina Boli, Eleftheria Theodoroudi Translation into English: Maria Anagnostopoulou Translation into Bulgarian: Glossima-Vehrheim Editors: Maria Katsakiori, Katerina Boli Map: Lena Hatziiordanou, Antonis Apostolakis Photos: Photographic archive of ΕΚΒΥ/Eghromon, Maria Katsakiori, Katerina Boli Rhodope lily photo: Kostas Vidakis Brown bear photo: Sotiris Milionis Lay out: Art Makers Printing: D. Altintzis March 2008 The traveller’s guide to Rhodope mountain range was produced in the framework of the project “Common approaches to a joint planning for the promotion of the ecologically sensitive sites on the Rhodope Mountain” of the Community Initiative Operational Programme INTERREG IIIA/PHARE CBC GREECE-BULGARIA of the Ministry of Economics and Finance, co-financed by the European Regional Development Fund (75%) and by national resources (25%). BENEFICIARY EDITOR exofen:Layout 1 3/21/08 12:29 PM 2 exofen:Layout 1 3/21/08 12:29 PM 3 exofen:Layout 1 3/21/08 12:29 PM 4 22x22eng:rodopi22x22 3/21/08 1:01 PM 1 A natural boundary between Greece and Bulgaria, Rhodope spreads over a surface area of approximately 19,000 km2 (82% in Bulgarian and 18% in Greek territory), signalizing a precious ecosystem of the Balkans, a mountain range of enormous ecological significance. At the north of the Prefectures of Drama and Xanthi, from mount Falakron to the Pomac villages of Xanthi, and from the Hellenic-Bulgarian borders till the area of Stavroupolis and Paranesti, the western and central parts of the Rhodope moun- tain range have the privilege to host the richest forests in Greece and some of the least disturbed natural ecosystems of Europe, while they provide shelter to ani- mals which are threatened by extinction, such as the brown bear and the chamois. The area is characterized by a multifarious relief with innumerable peaks, mean- dering streams and tributaries of the river Nestos, densely vegetated gorges and impressive waterfalls. It is a thinly populated area, however rich in deserted vil- lages, water mills, arched bridges, castles and other archaeological ruins. 22x22eng:rodopi22x22 3/21/08 1:01 PM 2 The mountain range of Western and Central Rhodope is one of the most interesting areas in Europe, thanks to its Central and great biodiversity. This is the result of its geographical position (a meeting point for the Balkan, Irano-caspian Western and Mediterranean flora), its geology and geomorphology, in addition to the fact that the area was not affected by Rhodope the glaciers. Thereby, for several species of central and northern Europe, Rhodope provides shelter and delimits their southernmost occurrence. 22x22eng:rodopi22x22 3/21/08 1:01 PM 3 > Central and Western Rhodope Despite its relatively small surface area, the Greek part of On the Greek side, 5 sites have been the range has a high ecological interest, as it hosts vari- included in the NATURA 2000 Network, 1 of able ecosystems and vegetation zones, from the purely them is designated Natural Monument on the Mediterranean ones, to that of the boreal conifers of basis of national legislation and Biogenetic northern Europe and the proalpine zone of meso-Europe. Reserve and another is also nominated as The Bulgarian part is equivalent; its conifer forests repre- Biogenetic Reserve by the Council of Europe. sent 70% of the total vegetation of Rhodope and its western part hosts the best-preserved European black pine forests of Bulgaria, as well as well preserved moun- Since 1941, when the first protected tainous grasslands. area was established, Bulgaria has declared 216 protected areas until 2006. 22x22eng:rodopi22x22 3/21/08 1:01 PM 4 Travelling along less than 100 km, from the coast to the highest peak of the Rhodope mountain range, you will observe all vegetation zones, from the Mediterranean to a similar to the boreal conifer zone, a unique experience in the entire Mediterranean. First you will cross the Mediterranean zone of evergreen broadleaves with strawberry trees, wild olive trees, kermes oak, ash tree, Judas tree, etc. Up the slope you will enter the transi- tional zone of the kermes oak, and moving on even higher, you will find yourself in the zone of oak forests, the most important of Rhodope, cardinal species being the Hungarian oak, the ses- sile oak and the downy oak. In the same zone, there are lime wood trees and European black pine stands, either non-mixed or mixed with oak. Further above, you will enter the continental zone (beech zone), which often creates mixed stands with fir and Norway spruce, but also with maple, aspen, birch, European vegetation black pine and Scotch pine. One of the most beautiful mixed > forests of beech with fir and Norway spruce is the virgin forest of Frakto. The highest vegetation zone you will meet there, is the, unique in Greece, zone of boreal conifers, with forests of Scotch pine, Norway spruce and birch, which compose real Exploring proalpine or Scandinavian landscapes. vegetation A distinct category of vegetation, which does not follow the rules of species altitudinal succession as it does not depend on climate but rather on water, is that of the riparian forests, with willows, white poplars, common alders and oriental planes. You will meet those along the river Nestos and the local gullies and streams. 22x22eng:rodopi22x22 3/21/08 1:01 PM 5 The kermes oak, a natural protection against soil erosion and highly demanded goat food, supported the economy of Rhodope and the entire country as a source of energy for heating, the oper- ation of limekilns and furnaces and the distillation of raki. Currently, kermes oak forests are only present on Crete. In the rest of Greece, the kermes oak On the Rhodope, the beech grows mostly occurs in the form of a shrub. over the best quality soils and on the most humid north and east-facing slopes. Uniformly grown or mixed with other species, it creates most produc- 44% of the forests in Greece are oak tive forests of great ecological, economic and forests. It was therefore not accidental that the aesthetic value, which moreover contribute to oak was consecrated to Jupiter, became the sacred the generation of pure drinking water. tree of Macedonian kings, and acquired the power to vaticinate. Oak wood was used as fuel, and as raw material in naval architecture, furniture making and fencing. Its acorns became food for pigs, goats, wild animals but also people, who, during the German occupation (2nd World War), survived by making bread out of acorn flour. The dominant species on Rhodope, but also in the entire country, is the Hungarian oak, a species of outstanding value, due to the extent of its ecosystems (80% of the total oak forests), but also because of the much sought, light-coloured wood. 22x22eng:rodopi22x22 3/21/08 1:01 PM 6 Discovering the natural …treasures The Simida (birch) Forest A virtually boreal species, the birch, with its characteristic white bark and the delicate, “tremulous” leaves, creates extensive non-mixed forests in proalpine areas in Scandi- navia and in Russia. In Greece, it sporadically appears in beech, Scotch pine or Macedonian pine and Norway spruce forests. The forest that it forms in the northern part of the Prefecture of Drama is unique in the whole of Greece and the southernmost in Europe. Its ecological significance is great, forest due to its great biodiversity, matching its aesthetic value, as > it is one of the most beautiful forests in the country. 22x22eng:rodopi22x22 3/21/08 1:01 PM 7 The Virgin Forest of Frakto The area of Frakto hosts one of the most beautiful mixed forests of beech with fir and Norway spruce, as well as one of the least disturbed natural forest ecosystems in Europe, with vast ecological interest. The Virgin Forest lies in the north eastern corner of the Prefecture of Drama, beneath the highest peak of Central Rhodope, at 1,953 m. In 1979, its phytogeographical and ecological value was acknowledged and in 1980, it was designated as a Natural Monument. Ever since, it enjoys an absolute protection status and entrance is only allowed for scien- tific purposes. Nevertheless the peripheral zone of the forest, which accommodates the Forest Worksite of Frakto, is open to the public. Visitors can arrange an overnight stay, by contacting the Forest Service of Drama. At the Visitor Centre of Frakto the traveller can take all necessary information to organize a tour about the forest, following forest roads and marked paths. 22x22eng:rodopi22x22 3/21/08 1:01 PM 8 The Beech Forest in Tsihla, Haidou Haidou, on the mountains of the Prefecture of Xanthi, is in fact the southern part of mount Koula (its northern part pertaining to Bulgaria). Its highest peak is Gyftokastro (1,827 m). On Haidou, beech forests domi- nate, mixing with Scotch pine, birch and Macedonian pine. At higher altitudes you can see grasslands, remnants of aestival pastures. The Beech Forest, around 12 km from the Forest Village of Erymanthos, is situated at the loca- tion “Tsihla”, at 1,500 m and occupies approximately 18 hectares. It has been designated as a Natural Monument due to its undisturbed beech stands and its ecological, botanical and aesthetic value. The Elatia Forest At the northern corner of the Prefecture of Drama, along the Greek-Bulgarian borderline, in the area of Elatia, you will come across the Norway spruce forest, unique in the country. Your visit will imprint in your memory, as the aspect of the forest landscape leads you directly to those of northern Europe. In this impressive piece of nature you will identify all forms of Norway spruce existing in Europe, such as that of Sudety (West Czech Republic) with the pendulous branches, but also wild flowers, endemic of the Balkans and rare in Greece.