DIPLOMARBEIT Titel der Diplomarbeit “The Orient Tastes Strange: The Relationship Between Cuisine and Culture in the Context of East Asia“ Verfasserin Katharina Hoff angestrebter akademischer Grad Magistra der Philosophie (Mag. phil.) Wien, 2009 Studienkennzahl laut Studienblatt: A 343 Studienrichtung laut Studienblatt: Diplomstudium Anglistik und Amerikanistik Betreuerin: Univ.-Ass. Privatdoz. Dr. Susanne Reichl Acknowledgements First and foremost, I am deeply indepted to my supervisor, Univ.-Ass. Privatdoz. Dr. Susanne Reichl, for always providing encouragement, stimulating suggestions and guidance regarding my thesis, as well as the pursuit of postcolonial studies in general. I am very grateful for the fact that she encouraged me to stick to my topic, even though my focus on hybridity in connection with East Asia is highly unusual for a student at the English department. Moreover, Dr. Reichl left me enough space to pour my own thoughts and background knowledge into this paper. Thus, she not only helped me to finish off my thesis, but also provided me with the courage and curiosity to pursue my studies in this field. I think words cannot sufficiently express the gratitude I feel. Nevertheless, thank you! Furthermore, I would like to express my gratitude towards Professor Linhart and the Japanese department at Vienna University for promoting and stimulating my interest in Japan, “Japanese” culture (which is, as I will point out in the course of this paper, a highly volatile construct), and East Asia in general. A variety of interesting courses at Vienna University have taught me a great deal, and I hope that the Humanities will continue to stimulate the minds of students, and change their perception of the world, in the future. I would also like to thank my family as well as my friends for their support before, during, and after the research and writing process. All of you have helped me in your own ways, be it in the form of mental support and words of encouragement, help with my computer (which at one point threatened to collapse), or simply by interesting and stimulating discussions. Thank you! In particular, I would like to thank my mother who has always encouraged me to follow my heart and do what I love. Thanks for believing in me! Table of Contents 1. INTRODUCTION: THE ORIENT TASTES STRANGE – THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CUISINE AND CULTURE IN THE CONTEXT OF EAST ASIA...3 2. POSTCOLONIAL TERMINOLOGY – AN OVERVIEW...................................7 2.1. Postcolonialism...........................................................................................7 2.2. Orientalism and Mimicry............................................................................13 2.3. The Myth of the Nation..............................................................................21 2.4. Hybridity.....................................................................................................26 3. FROM A THEORETICAL TO A PRACTICAL APPROACH – IDENTITY VIA FOOD.........................................................................................................30 3.1. Food and Foodways – An Overview of Different Approaches...................31 3.2. Food and the Nation..................................................................................35 4. “A FAMILY SUPPER” BY KAZUO ISHIGURO..............................................42 4.1. Kazuo Ishiguro...........................................................................................42 4.2. “A Family Supper”......................................................................................44 4.2.1. Fugu – just Fish?...............................................................................46 4.2.2. Tea – or the Epitome of National Culture........................................ 51 4.3. Conclusion..................................................................................................57 5. TIMOTHY MO`S SOUR SWEET...................................................................59 5.1. Timothy Mo.................................................................................................59 5.2. Sour Sweet.................................................................................................61 5.3. Food in Sour Sweet....................................................................................62 5.3.1. Rice as a Marker of Identity...............................................................66 5.3.2. Stereotyping and the Smile of the “Chinaman”..............................67 5.3.3. TEA AS A BRIDGING DEVICE................................................................72 5.4. Conclusion..................................................................................................75 6. EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN BY ANG LEE.....................................................78 6.1. Ang Lee......................................................................................................78 6.2. Eat Drink Man Woman..............................................................................81 6.3. Food in Eat Drink Man Woman.................................................................86 6.3.1. Fish....................................................................................................89 6.3.2. Noodles and Dumplings..................................................................91 1 6.4. Conclusion................................................................................................94 7. TAMPOPO BY JUZO ITAMI..........................................................................96 7.1. Juzo Itami...................................................................................................96 7.2. Tampopo.....................................................................................................98 7.3. Food featured in Tampopo........................................................................102 7.3.1. Rice and “Japanese” Food.............................................................105 7.3.2. Ramen...............................................................................................108 7.4. Conclusion................................................................................................114 8. CONCLUSION............................................................................................116 9. BIBLIOGRAPHY.........................................................................................120 10. INDEX........................................................................................................126 11. ZUSAMMENFASSUNG.............................................................................127 12. CURRICULUM VITAE...............................................................................129 2 1. Introduction: The Orient Tastes Strange – the Relationship between Cuisine and Culture in the Context of East Asia Not all societies are “post-colonial“ in the same way...But this does not mean they are not “post- colonial“ in any way. Stuart Hall As far as the provocative title of my thesis is concerned, I think an explanation of its components, as well as of my general aims is in order. In spite of the fact that the title suggests a rather derogative view of the “Orient” and concepts related to it, it is merely meant to whet the reader`s appetite for more information on the subject matter. Seemingly, the title confirms commonly held stereotypes about the “exotic East”, which is to say it plays with the expectations of the reader. The description of the Orient as a strange entity which can be consumed is in fact an allusion to Edward Said`s work, which will be discussed in more detail in the next chapter. In short, Said has claimed that the Orient is constructed as an exotic and passive entity by the West, or in other words, it is appropriated to fulfill the needs or aspirations of a western audience. In spite of the fact that Said`s definition of Orient did not include the Far East, I aim to apply his theories to the fictional portrayal of two East Asian countries, namely to that of Japan and China. Although I speak of East Asia in my title, I will leave out a discussion of Korea, in spite of the fact that I am aware that it is a vital and important part of the East Asian region. Essentially, I will explore the portrayal of “Chinese” and “Japanese” national identities via an analysis of food items. As I will point out in chapter three, food can be an important signifier for a wealth of identities, as for example race, class, gender, ethnicity, religion and culture. However, the relationship between cuisine and culture is by no means a straightforward one. In spite of what the advertising industry wants to make the consumer believe, “authentic cuisine” and “tradition” are by no means fixed and stable notions inherent in culinary culture. Thus, instead of looking for an essential core of “authenticity” in food culture, this paper can be said to uncover the appropriation, and thus an 3 underlying hybridity of foodstuffs. Here, I agree with Lupton`s view, who said that research tends to “concentrate more on the discursive production of meaning and [tends to] highlight the plurality of meaning rather than attempting to elicit a single `truth` of experience” (Lupton qtd. in Pang 54). In the course of this paper, I aim to deconstruct an orientalist view of cultural texts. Before I start, however, I think it is important to offer my understanding of culture, which will similarly serve as a basis for the discussion that follows. My definition of culture