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THow to flfcake Battenberg ano point Xace

BY

NELLIE CLARK BROWN

Published by THE PRISCILLA PUBLISHING COMPANY

BOSTON, MASS. MRS 6 1l

5G910 8tCUNU«-OHV.

Copyright, iqoo By The Priscilla Publishing Company Boston, Mass. How to Make Battenberg and Point Lace* $

Selection of Materials. jHE same rules and instruction apply- This thread comes in balls, varying in size from to Battenberg and modern point lace. the tiny ball of No. 1500 to the large ball of No. The latter, being much the finer and 30. Arouud the outside is pasted a ring of stiff more delicate, requires more time and paper, which serves as a protector for the thread,

patience. Both deserve equal care. and keeps it free from soil. This paper should not be removed, but the thread should be used Braid and Thread. from the centre of the ball. On one side of the The pattern being chosen, select a smooth linen ball is a thread passing across from the centre to braid. Great care should be taken to avoid getting the circumference. By pulling this thread an end a cotton braid. The beauty and value of many a is discovered, and the ball unwinds from the in- piece of Battenberg lace has been lessened because side in the fashion of most balls of thread and it was made with a cotton braid. twine. It is advisable to put the ball into a little The working thread, as well as all other parts box, through a puncture in the lid of which the of the wtrk, should always be linen. There are thread may be drawn without risk of soil or injury. various lace threads that are jjood, and each has Thread bags of various kinds may be used instead its friends. Some of the threads that are so of the box. slightly twisted as to resemble floss are good for Rings. the filling of rings, and, when a soft, indefinite Very excellent rings may be bought read)- for effect is desired, is the right thing for their cover- use, but many ladies prefer to make them. For ing of buttonhole stitch or crochet. When it is their use a very handy little ring gauge has been desired to have each thread in the covering of the invented, and is shown in miniature in Fig. 1. ring stand out distinctly, thread more tightly This provides for the making of rings twisted should be used. For overcasting the braid, in six different sizes, and permits of or Nos. 70 80 may be used, while for the filling-in their being made of any thickness de- stitches, Nos. 40 to 60 should be selected, according sired. The thread or floss is wound to the degree of fineness desired in the work. The around the chosen section of the ring -narrow braid calls for a finer thread than the gauge a sufficient number of times, wider braid requires. None of the cotton threads perhaps twenty, to make the ring of should be used for any part of the permanent the necessary thick- work. To avoid knots and tangles in the working- ness. The thread or thread, the needle should always be threaded from floss should be loose the right end of the thread, and before working enough to allow of its the thread should be drawn through the thumb being overcast. To do and finger of the left hand to lessen its liability to this, thread a needle twist and tangle. Fro. l. Ring Gauge and Button- and pass it repeatedly holed Ring fob For needle point lace the best thread is the Battenbekg around the roll of and Point Lace. "Petit Moulin" linen lace thread, manufactured threads by pushing for the purpose in France. This thread may be the needle between the threads and the ring gauge. had in numbers from 30 to 1500. For the very When it is closely overcast, push the thread ring finest lace, Nos. 1000 to 1500 should be used, carefully off the ring gauge without marring its while for doilies and handkerchiefs it is advisable circular shape. To do this successfully, give it a to use a slightly heavier thread. Nos. 600 to 1000 series of little pushes with the thumb around and are good. In making Honiton and princess lace, around its circumference until it slips off. It is Nos. 400 to 600 are most effective. The coarser now a ring of threads held in place by the over- threads are excellent for Battenberg lace. casting thread which is coiled around it. It may

1 exactly alike, care should be taken now be finished in either one or two ways. It make the rings circle the ring gauge exactly may be covered with a close row of buttonhole to have the thread number of times in each. ring. stitches, and so resemble the ready-made ring, or the same single Rings for the needle point lace should be very it may be covered with a close row of delicate. The thread should be wound crochet. The end may be fastened by passing it slender and gauge from four to eight or ten times, through the threads of the ring. If the needle is around the and buttonholed. Crochet is not thrust through the body of the ring, and carries then overcast these dainty rings. When a substi- the thread a short distance from the finishing practical for for the ring gauge is desired, bone knitting- place, and then with another stitch returns to its tute pencils, or tiny glass bottles may be used. starting-point, the end will be safely secured. To needles,

Basting and Overcasting.

to remove. Braid that is back stitched to the pat- aHE first work is basting the braid to the an unnecessarily tedious task of the pattern. In most patterns the braid is tern makes the work from the pattern just at represented by a double line. In bast- separating of time when the completion of the stitches makes ing, one edge of the braid should follow the the worker unusually eager to see the work com- the outer line of the pattern, and the basting threads should be placed through the open edge of pleted. Never under any circumstances should any but the braid and upon the outer line of the pattern length of braid be basted through the designating the braid. When the progress of the a straight middle. Should the braid be basted through the pattern changes the outer line or curve, to which when following a curve, it is almost im- you have been basting, to the inner curve, the middle possible not to draw it too tight, and as a result basting thread should be carried across the braid the the outer edge will curl up and utterly spoil the as is shown in the illustration (Fig. 2), and work, as no amount of care in placing the stitches basting continued along what is now the outer can make right a piece of work where the outer curve. edge of the braid around a curve rises in its might, and reaches longingly towards its opposite and inner edge.

Turning Corners. Great care should be observed in turning corners, and various methods are employed for corners of different angles. In an obtuse corner (Fig. 3, a), or one so broad and shallow as to be almost a curve,

it is only necessary to follow the outer curve of the IN BATTENBERG AND fulness FIG. 2. METHOD OF BASTING BRAID pattern of the braid, and allow the resulting Point Lace. to remain loose until the overcasting stitches draw

close and it down into shape. The basting stitches should be rather so as to hold In sharp or acute angles (Fig. 3, b) the braid may short, and should be drawn tightly the basting be basted to the extreme point of the angle, and the braid firmly to its place. Should lace stitches the fulness folded over, so the fold will lie along stitches be loose, the putting in of the place on the edge of the braid, as the basting is continued will inevitably draw the braid from its of the lines along the second side of the point. the pattern and spoil the perfection In a sharp angle the fold of the braid may also and curves of the design. nor advis- be turned under (Fig. 3, c), the fold being so regu- Back stitching is neither necessary taken closely and lated that its ends reach from the exact point of able. The forward stitches and are easy the outer edge of the braid or pattern to the exact firmly will hold the braid securely, point of the inner edge. This forms a niitered foldings in the order in which they come, but this corner and divides the point exactly in halves. destroys the similarity of the two sides. A better

Still another way (Fig. 3, d) is applicable to an appearance is obtained by having the two siiles

angle of any degree, but it cuts off the end of the similar. In tinning the braid back upon itself

point. In this method, when the point is ap- at the end or top of the loop, it is brought »<•<•/• proached, the braid is simply turned over upon the already basted braid of the preceding loop.

itself at the angle necessary to allow the braid On the opposite side it is best to turn the braid upon either side of the fold to follow the line of under the side of the preceding loop. This must the design. be done before the basting of the preceding loop is completed. Upon reaching the point where the two braids diverge, the end of the braid nearest the bastings

is taken in the fingers of the left hand, and with the fingers of the right hand is doubled back or under that held in the left hand. Lay the doubled

braid down upon the pattern, being sure that it is just sufficiently long to reach the end of the loop or scallop. One row of basting fastens the two

layers of braid into place. It is best to cut the braid as seldom as possible, and this method of turning back the braid saves many cuttings, ami

presents a much neater appearance than when it Fig. 3. Method of Basting Battenberg and Point Lace Braid on Corners and Cubves. is cut at every opportunity.

In all cases the point of the braid should be Overcasting'. securely fastened to the pattern in such a way After the braid has all been carefully basted that its end will not stand out from the pattern into place, the full inner edges of the curves must and form a hook or projection, around which the also be brought into place. To do this they must- working thread will be prone to catch at the risk be overcast with a very fine linen thread. This of pricked fingers, tangled thread, and stitches overcasting thread should pass over and over the dragged out of shape. A stitch or two carried edge of the braid and into each of its marginal from the point of the braid to the pattern beyond loops. Only occasionally, on very large, slightly will hold all points securely and will repay the curved lines, may a loop be here and there omitted. care expended many times. Hurried basting, with On the edges of spaces to be filled with twisted loose points and corners, often results in great loss bars, spiders, wheels, and other similar stitches of time and perfection of work. where the working thread must pass from point to point along the edge of the braid, the overcast- Scallops and Loops. ing may be omitted, and the passage of the working Where the pattern contains a series of overlap- thread utilized to draw the braid into place as it ping scallops or loops, with one width of braid proceeds in its course of completing the stitch. between them (Fig. 3, e), the braid should not be Familiarity with the work will show when the

3ut but doubled back upon itself. Baste the work of overcasting may in this way be lessened. braid upon the outer edge of the design until it The overcasting thread should not be drawn tight reaches the braid that checks its course. Turn it enough to draw the braid from its place on the back upon itself so that the fold just touches the pattern, but it should be tight enough to hold other braid and may be overcast to it. Let the the inner gathered edge smoothly down to the edge of the returning braid follow the outer line pattern, where it must fit as flatly as its opposite of the pattern of the next scallop or loop. outer edge. Where the design of the pattern contains a series Whenever the overcasting thread reaches a place

}f scallops or loops on either side of a central fig- where two edges of the braid meet or cross, the are (Fig. 3, e) the braid may be put on with the needle should be passed through both braids, either series. The centre ring may be the largest* ill a simple overcasting stitch or with a single row or decrease in size as buttonhole knot. When the thread passes from and those on either side may or point of the space allotted one side to the other of two braid edges the thread they approach the end lead a row of others should connect them at both sides. to them, or a large ring may When in the course of the overcasting the curve of decreasing size. pattern requires the rings to be placed of the braid changes, and the inner curve becomes When the that they touch, they should be the outer one, a buttonhole stitch should be taken so close together entering each ring at one point in the edge of the braid at the point where the united by threads uniting threads should not be curve changes and the thread carefully woven only, and these to bring the rings firmly through the braid to its opposite side, where drawn tight enough hinge, which, while another buttonhole stitch should be taken and the together, but should serve as a allows them to move overcasting continued. it keeps the rings together, freely. Rings should, under no circumstances, be along their circumferences, as the Cutting the Braid. sewed together effect is stiff and clumsy, and not at all dainty Where, the ends of a braid meet at a corner, or and lace-like. other place having no other braid to hide the junc- It is best to baste the rings to the pattern only ture, fold the end of the under braid up and the as the progress of the work requires. The working end of the upper braid down, and lay the one upon thread is very apt to catch between the basted Overcast them together at the end of the other. rings and the pattern, and so delay the work. The beginning of the basting of the both braids. After the work of attaching the rings to the braid design, as well as the joining of two braid to the with the lace stitches has been completed, it is should occur at the crossing of two braids. ends, impossible for the thread to catch in this manner. Pass the second braid over the end of the first, and design put when you again reach that point in the Fastening the Thread. tin- second end under the overlying braid with the Knots should never appear in any lace, and the first. This makes the upper side the right side. worker should aim to have both sides of the work If it is desired to have the under side of the appear equally neat and perfect. When the com- work, or the side next the pattern, the right side, pletion of a stitch or the limit of a thread permits the manner of procedure should be reversed, and the fastening to be made at the intersection of two the two ends placed over the other braid. These braids, a single buttonhole knot should be made, ends should be either turned over and hemmed and the thread passed, by means of the needle, down neatly, or very carefully overcast to the other back and forth two or three times between the braid, that no ragged edges may be seen on either braids with a tiny backstitch at each change of side. The folding over of the ends makes the the direction of the thread. When a new thread point, and is work a. little thicker just at that is to be fastened at the intersection of two braids, more easily noticed than the other finish, which, if the needle should be passed between these two carefully done, is hardly visible, and is especially braids with the point toward the place at which fitted for the finer laces. the thread is to be fastened. The thread should then be carefully drawn through until the end Pattern. Basting the Rings to the just disappears from sight between the braids. A should then be made, and back of When basting on the rings it is well to remem- buttonhole knot guard its predecessor. ber that the basting threads have to lie removed it a second one to in the course of the work, the end of a later. Only enough are needed to hold the ring When, be fastened to a single braid, it in place If the needle is thrust through the used thread must along the edge of the braid with ring four times, twice downwards and twice up- may be overcast an occasional buttonhole knot, or a single button- wards, it is sufficient. As the rings are not exactly tie the thread to the edge of the alike on both sides, it is necessary, when placing hole knot may the needle may then pass in a series them, to be very careful to see that the same side braid, and of tiny running stitches, with an occasional back- is always uppermost. Very pretty effects are the body of the braid for a short obtained by graduating the size of the rings in a stitch, along distance. The new thread should then be carried When working, either side of the lace may be by the needle in a similar manner along the braid considered the right side. Each has its advantages from the direction opposite that taken by the and disadvantages. The aim of the worker should retiring thread. At the point where the is thread always be to make both sides so neatly and care- to be fastened, and the work continued, two button- fully that they are equally beautiful, and there is hole knots are all that is necessary. no wrong side. Ribbed wheels and some other It is often well, when filling in with stitches that stitches cannot so easily be worked on the wrong permit, to begin the new thread on the side of the side, and some other stitches appear better on the space opposite the ending of the former thread. side upon which they have been worked. Other This serves to make the place of j uncture still less stitches appear alike on both sides. The overcast- conspicuous. ing of two braids together, and the beginning and All patterns should be able to be considered as ending of each thread, often appear more plainly composed of two parts design and — background. upon the upper side and mar the effect of the The design should be prominently brought out, work, but with care that can be avoided. When and, to accomplish this, the network and other the wrong side is up, care must be exercised in showy stitches should be used, keeping the spider- placing the rings, which must also be wrong side webs, bars, and other open stitches for the back- up. If there is any fear of soiling the work, it is ground. It is well to put in the background. always advisable to make it wrong side up. The stitches first, as they will hold the curves of the under side is usually smoother, but the pressing braid in place, and preserve the shape of the de- of the piece when finished makes both sides equally sign until the work is finished. smooth and handsome.

Preparing a Sampler.

VERY lace-maker should prepare a sam- holland When — the smooth, shiny holland — is pler upon which to reproduce the used, no additional background is needed. When various lace stitches, which cambric is may be used, it is necessary to line it with a sheet worked, cut out, and repeated until pro- of strong but not too stiff paper, or a light weight ficiency is acquired, and this without danger of canvas. With narrow tape or Battenberg braid a soiling or in any way spoiling the piece part of work of this sampler is checked off in one-inch in which the stitch is to be introduced. If squares and the remainder in oblongs one inch by every stitch is practised in this way the worker one-half inch in size, as shown in Fig. 4. The will in the end, besides having become very fa- squares are for the networks and wheels, while miliar with the various stitches, have illus- the them oblongs are for insertions and bars. The trated in a compact, practical form. Only those braid presents a very neat workers who have prepared them for use know the appearance, and is delight- comfort and satisfaction to be had in the posses- fully firm if it is first basted sion of a sampler. in place and then stitched To prepare this sampler an oblong piece of cam- through the centre on the bric or holland is required. The size of this machine. The last piece of depends upon the size of the collection of stitches braid to be attached should the worker hopes to obtain, and a sampler is a be the one that passes around great incentive to new stitches. What the kodak the others like a frame and book and the stamp album are to their devotees, covers up the cut ends of so is the sampler to the lace-worker. A new stitch the braid. Or a sampler becomes a great prize and is eagerly added to the Fig. 4. Diagram of Sam may be made on an all-over collection. In view of this, and pleb for Lace Stitches that there are lace pattern; this would over a hundred stitches in common use, it is well show the best application of the different stitches to the make sampler sufficiently large. to the various shaped spaces. Lace Stitches. Bars.

arranged according to fancy, ACE stitches may be classified as bars, These bars may be of three, arranged in wheels, insertions, and networks. The and are grouped in clusters rays from a common centre, or are first two are used in filling in the back- points and in they are sometimes ground of designs, while the insertions placed in parallel lines, when with a series of buttonhole and networks are reserved for the filling in of tied through the centre this tying thread overcast as are the the design itself. knots, and bars. Sorrento Bars.

The plain twisted bar, Fig. 5, also called the Sor- Plain Buttonhole Bar. rento bar, is the simplest of all stitches. The When a bar heavier than the twisted bars is thread is fastened securely in the proper place and desired, the plain buttonhole bar may be used, as

carried across the space to be in Fig. 7. The thread is fastened securely and > h J j a j a b i a i t filled, where it is held smoothly carried across the space to be filled two, three, or over the pattern and again four times, according to the weight or size of the secured either by passing it bar desired. The working through the edge of the braid thread is then carried one

or fastening it with a button- loop of the braid-edge hole knot. The work is then lower than the one into held so that the first fastening which the foundation

of the thread is away from the threads are placed, and the worker and the second attach- entire bar filled closely and Fig. 5. Plain Twisted needle is smoothly with a row of Bar. ing is nearer. The then repeatedly passed under buttonhole stitches, which either from the bar, and the working thread drawn tightly may be worked each time, until the opposite end of the bar is left to right, or from right to left; but the former is reached. Fig. 7. Plain Button- The overcasting away from instead of toward hole Bar. the easier, as the thread the worker secures a better twist or rope effect, does not have to be thrown and each twisting or overcasting of the thread around into position, but falls in place with the helps to keep the preceding overcastings in place, working of each stitch. The carrying of the and avoids the loop in the nearer end of the bar, working thread one loop of the braid-edge be- where the thread turns back upon itself. low the foundation threads of the bar keeps the The working thread is carried from one com- finished bar in place, and avoids all tendency to pleted bar to the point from which another is be- curl or twist out of shape. For the same rea- gun by a series of overcasting stitches along the son, when the end of the bar is reached, the selvage of the braid. thread is fastened just below the last stitch. work- The double twisted bar, Fig. 6, is formed by Where a series of bars is to be worked, the casting three threads across the space to be filled. ing thread is overcast along the braid-edge to the These threads are stretched desired position of the second bar, and the process just sufficiently to cause them repeated. These buttonhole bars may be grouped to lie in a straight line between in various ways, and are often called Point de the braids without pulling them Venise bars. from their places. They are Bars with Pinned Picots. then overcast together in an Buttonholed open effect that allows the When open picots (also called dots or purls) are foundation threads to show desired on the buttonholed bar, they are formed between the coiling of the over- as the work proceeds, at intervals of halves, thirds, casting thread, which winds quarters, or according to whatever arrangement is F 1 LE like a tendril. chosen. See Fig. 8. A small pin is thrust into t» [stki. bar around them the pattern at a distance from the bar correspond- ing with the desired length of the picot. The working thread is passed under the pin, and is carried over and behind the foundation threads, and outside of the loop held down by the pin.

The needle is then thrust with a buttonhole stitch, at right angles to the bar, under the pinned loop and the other thread, which has just reappeared

tI!8 ofe The entire pattern is then reversed, bringing the unfinished side of the bar into position for completion. A group of the two buttonhole knots, the first regular and the second reversed, is then inserted in each of the spaces left for this pur- pose. The result is a closely covered bar of intri- cate appearance, and of a very braid-like "effect. In fact, the ambitious worker may accomplish a piece of lace which, though containing a braid, is entirely hand made. To do this, a long, narrow strip of holland, or paper-lined cambric, is secured. The ends are then basted together, and a large hoop or ring thus formed. To this the two foun- dation threads are couched at regular intervals in a straight line, circling the hoop a number of times sufficient to furnish the required length of Fig. 12. Raleigh Bars. braid. Bar with Picot Made in Bullion Stitch. The pairs of buttonhole knots are then worked down the length of the threads on one side of the The foundation threads are prepared as for the foundation threads. The holland hoop is then plain buttonhole bar. These threads are covered reversed, and the other side of the braid com- with buttonhole stitches set close together until pleted. The couching threads are then cut, and the place where the picot is to be placed is reached. the dainty strip of "braid" released. The loop- The needle is then thrust part way through the like appearance of the edges furnish very excel- last buttonhole stitch, and TfTrrTTTfT3 lent openings for the needle, when the filling-in the thread wound from left stitches are placed. to right ten to twenty times A wider braid may be secured by increasing the around its point. These coils nmjp^fl Un it n number of foundation threads, which may also be of thread must be drawn up of a larger size than the filling-in stitches, if so closely and evenly along the desired. A very pretty network results from the length of the needle, but not ^* kx^ KS B XX use of this pair of regular and reversed buttonhole so tightly that it is difficult

I . II 171. stitches. The work is done in rows, and is exactly . H ^^a, sx 31 IT or impossible to draw the like the Brussels net two-stitch, except that the needle through them. The second buttonhole stitch of each pair is reversed. left thumb is placed upon Fig. 13. Buttonholed the coil, and the needle Bar with Picot in Raleigh Bars. Bullion Stitch. drawn through with the fin- Another form of the buttonhole stitch bars is gers of the right hand. The called the Raleigh bar. In this stitch the foun- thread is pulled up so tightly that the coil is drawn dation bars are first laid throughout the space almost into a semicircle. The buttonholing of the to be filled, using a coarse thread. These bars are bar, against which the picot will rest securely, is often put in sufficiently loose that they may be continued until the point for the next picot is twisted by the working thread several times before reached. the next loop is made. This twisted .length serves This coiling of the thread about the needle may as another division, and increases the desired irreg- be used in various ways. At the intersection of ular appearance of the bars. After the foundation two twisted bars four bullion picots, meeting at threads are all in place the buttonholing is accom- the point of intersection, may be placed one be- plished with occasional picots, either pinned, lace, tween each right angle formed by the meeting or bullion, worked at irregular intervals. of the twisted threads. See Fig. 14. A space This stitch may be worked in a regular design filled with a network of lines at right angles, of squares or triangles, but its chief beauty lies in forming a checkerboard appearance when com- its irregularity of form. pleted, with a quartet of these bullion picots at

8 each intersection, is very effective. Closely worked whose background is filled networks may with branched buttonholed be embellished bars presents an especially

with good ef- rich appearance, and the fect, as shown extra time and labor neces- in Fig. 15. The sary to accomplish this back- needle in this ground is fully repaid by

case is passed the beauty of the result. down through The usual foundation of the completed three threads is laid loosely network at the across one corner of the point which is space to be filled. These to be the centre foundation threads are then Fig. IB. Branched But- of the figure, closely buttonholed for about tonhole Bars. Quatrefoil Fig. 14. Way of Working and it reap- half their length, when the working thread is car- in Bullion Stitch. pears through ried to the point selected for the end of the next, the network at the point which is to be the outer loop. A second and third passing of the thread end of the figure. The thread is then coiled supplies the new foundation for this next loop, around the point of the needle a sufficient num- which is then- buttonholed for half its length, ber of times to fill the space between the disap- when a third foundation is prepared. pearance and reappearance of the needle. The This is continued until the spacing of the bars thumb is placed upon the coil, and the needle and is accomplished. When in the placing of these thread drawn through until the coils are closely bars it is necessary to complete the buttonholing held together, but in a straight line. The needle of an unfinished bar before another is begun, it is then thrust through the point where it made its should be done, but the work should be so planned former disappearance, and the coil lies on the net- that the thread need never be broken, but will work like a tiny leaf. Clusters of three or four of pass in a continuous circuit from bar to bar. these coils meeting at a common centre are very All the bars being placed, the work of complet- effective. ing the buttonholing of them is begun. The com- The rounded bullion picot may also be worked pletion of one loop brings the working thread to upon a completed network, and when it is desired the next unfinished bar awaiting completion, and so, to have it lie flat, a one by one, the buttonholing of the bars is stitch may be taken completed. through the network Bar with Lace Picot. and the under-side of the picot, thus fasten- The lace picots are formed somewhat differently.

ing the coiled loop se- See Fig. 17. The pin is placed as for the open curely to the network. pinned picots, and the thread passed around it and over Fio. 15. Trefoils in Bullion Three bullion picot and behind the foundation threads as Stitch Worked on Button- before, but reappears in- holed Foundation. coils meeting at a cen- '»' ' i ' tre, and with a worked h (i i side or between the sides of stem attached, make a very pretty clover leaf. the loop. The pin should See Fig. 15. be far enough from the bar to allow four buttonhole stitches to be set snugly Branched Bars, or Buttonholed Bars. upon the loop. The first

"When it is desired to fill with bars spaces too one should be placed as wide to admit of the use of any of the bar stitches near the pin as possible, already given, branched bars will be very appropri- in order to cover entirely ate. They may be used with good effect, also, „ „ „ the foundation loop.x The Fig. 17. Buttonhole Bar in filling in backgrounds. A piece of lace with lace picot. other three stitches should follow the first ones closely and evenly, the last be perfectly parallel, and drawn tightly across the one lying against the last buttonhole stitch of space, but not so tightly that they will draw the the bar. braid out of place. Keeping these foundation threads absolutely parallel, the working thread is Point d'Anvers Bars. For the filling in of leaf-shaped spaces, and used passed in a darning or weaving stitch over and as an insertion for long narrow spaces, Point d'An- under them for the desired distance. Then the vers bars are equally good. The thread is fastened first pair of side loops or leaflets is made. The at the middle of one end of the space to be filled, process of the weaving brings the working thread and carried along the over the right bar. It is then passed behind it edge of the braid, one and over the left bar as during the preceding weav- stitch to the right. It ing, and is passed through the edge of the braid at of is then brought across the left side of the space, with the point the the length of the space needle toward the already woven end of the work. and attached to the The thread is then passed under the left bar and braid, the same distance over the right as before, and, with the point of the from the centre of the needle thrust from the woven end of the work, is space as it is removed carried through the edge of the braid, at the right by the overcasting stitch side of the space. It is then brought under the at the opposite end. right bar and under the last passing of the thread The thread is then car- across the bars. It is then passed behind the left r i e d by overcasting bar and over the right, and the two side loops stitches a distance to being in place, the weaving of the bar is continued the left, equally distant until the place for the next pair of side loops is from the centre. It is Fig. 18. Point d'Anveks Bar. reached, when the process is repeated. This is con- then carried back in a tinued until the filling of the space is completed. parallel line to the opposite, or first end of the For short connecting bars the Point d'Anvers bar is .space, and fastened. The two lines of thread should sometimes used without the side loops.

Wheels or Spiders.

JHEELS or spiders are made on a foun- ing-point. The thread is then overcast along the dation of plain twisted bars. The edge of the braid for the required distance and number of bars depends on the size of again carried across the space, crossing the first the space. They are cast across the thread and entering the braid at the right place space to be filled at distances from each other, and and overcast back to its beginning. This is re- peated until the last bar has been overcast to the centre, when all the threads may be fastened to gether with a buttonhole knot or not, as preferred

The spider is then woven.

This is accomplished by passing the needle over and under the different radii formed by the bars and keeping the woven thread drawn tightly or snugly to the centre. This is continued until the

spider is of sufficient size, when the remaining ra- Fig. 19. Spinning Wheel. Fig. 20. Spinning Wheel. dius or half bar is overcast and the thread cut. are various kinds of spiders. sim- in such a manner that they all cross in the centre There The is in Fig. and is formed the the space. They form diameters, whose halves of plest shown 19, by over and under weaving of the radii, are radii of a circle. The first bar divides the regular and in keeping every alternate radius the space into halves and is overcast back to the start- results on 10 upper side of the spider when finished. The tion of twisted threads crossing in the centre simi- thread occasionally passed lar to the foundation threads for the spider or

between the two twisted wheel before given. The working thread is carried threads of a radius will under two radii, drawn up closely and firmly in keep the circling thread of place. The needle is then passed under the second the spider from rolling upon of these radii, and also under the next one (see itself. Another effect is pro- Fig. 23), and the thread duced by skipping one ra- is again drawn into posi- dius in every circuit of the tion. In this manner the

thread forming the spider. Fig. 21. Spinminq Wheel working thread is always with Knotted Cikcles. This alternates the thread carried back over the last

over and under the same radius and hide them radius under which it all from view, as shown in Fig. 20. passed, and forward under Fig. 22. Spinning Wheel In many uneven places the putting in of the tne uext one Tbjs resiuts Rosette. . ... bars may be so regulated that their completion m a raised twist or coil permits a final half bar, or a radius, instead of a over each radius as shown in the finished wheel, diameter. This is carried to the centre and the Fig. 22. When the lace is being made with the spider woven as before. Here the odd number of right side next the pattern, these ribbed wheels

radii admits, in fact necessitates, the continual al- must be made wrong ternating of the bars or radii. side up. To do this A pretty result is obtained by circling the spider the needle is thrust with one, two, or more rows of the thread, tied at under one radius at a each radius with a buttonhole knot as shown in time, with the point Fig. 21. These circles are to be perfectly true and of the needle toward equally distant from the spider. To form these both the worker and circles the last radius is overcast two or three the last radius around times, and the series of knots tied around the spider which the thread has at each radius. Upon completing the circle a few passed. The thread more overcasting stitches carries the thread a is then carried over

sufficient distance, and a second circle is knotted the radius and on to in. When enough circles have been made, the rest the next one, where of the radius is overcast and the thread fastened the process is re- off. Smaller spiders, Point de Venise "shells," peated. The two ways and other similar stitches may be placed at the may be combined, and Fig. 23. Detail of Spinning tying of each knot, and very effective. the result is a very become Wheel Rosette. effective rosette that

is often seen in drawn work. The centre is worked Spinning Wheel Rosettes. with the coil on the upper or working side for a The spinning wheel rosettes, Figs. 22 and 23, sufficient space, when for a similar space the work also called ribbed wheels, are made on a founda- is reversed, and the coil worked on the under side.

11 Insertions.

posite left. It is then passed over the right-hand Plain Russian Stitch. thread of the loop, under the left-hand thread, and

,HE plain Russian drawn up. It is well to leave the thumb on the loop

stitch, Fig. 24, is till the stitch is nearly completed, as it avoids the simplest of the tangling the thread and causes a more even insertions, and, like twist- all insertions, is suitable for Again the thumb holds down the thread, which long, narrow spaces in the is then brought up on the left side and slipped design of the pattern. This under the thumb as before. The needle is thrust is accomplished by a series through the braid at the left over the loose side of of buttonhole stitches, alternat- the loop and under the other or right side. This ing from one side of the space is repeated until the space is filled. Fig. 24. Plain Rcs- to the other. SIAN stitch. The same effect' may be produced by using the The thread is securely fastened in the upper, or plain Russian stitch, and with an overcasting stitch farther, left-hand corner. It is then brought for- producing the extra twist; but this takes more ward over the space and held against the pattern time and is not as even in results. by the left thumb. The needle is then thrust through the braid on the right side of the space, Column Stitch. with the needle pointing directly across toward Column stitch, shown in Fig. 26, is a combina- the braid at the left side. The thread is carried tion of plain and twisted Russian stitch. Each through the braid and again secured by the left stitch on one side of the space to be filled is a thumb. The work is then repeated from the left plain Russian stitch, while all those on the other side of the space, with the needle pointing toward side are twisted Russian stitches, with the work- the right side. Holding the thread down with the ing thread passed three or more times around the thumb makes it impossible to make a wrong twist, already twisted thread. This stitch makes a very as the needle never passes under the thread held pretty insertion for either in this way. straight or curved spaces. This stitch may be varied by tying each cross- In the latter, the twisted ing thread in the middle with a buttonhole knot. side of the stitch may be at the outer curve of the Twisted Russian Stitch. place to be filled, and the The twisted Russian stitch, Fig. is a trifle 25, twisted threads will radiate more complicated. As in the former, the stitches evenly outwards. The op- alternate from right to left, but the method of hold- posite effect may be obtained ing the thread down with the left thmnb differs. by reversing the order of The thread is fastened at the stitches, when the coils the upper left-hand corner and of the twisted side will con- carried forward over the space Fig. 20. Column Stitch. verge, and, if the curve is to be filled. The thumb is pronounced, will almost meet, and have the ap- then placed upon it as near pearance of the spokes of a wheel. the point of fastening as is

practical, and the thread is Single Buttonhole Stitch. brought to the right and again Insertion of slipped under the thumb, form- Along both sides of the long, narrow space to be

ing an open loop, upon both filled, a row of Brussels net (single buttonhole) sides of which the thumb rests. stitches is worked very evenly and quite loosely.

The needle is then thrust If the space is a curve the stitches along the inner Fig. 25. Twisted Bus sian Stitch. through the edge of the braid or smaller side of the space must be made closer at the right, with the point directed to the op- together, in order that the stitches of the two rows

12 will be in pairs, with each loop of the inner side between two loops of the opposite side. This WMUMWk second row of the same stitch is then worked over the first in such a manner that the working thread is attached to the braid just half way between the attachments of the first row. This results in the threads of the two rows crossing each other exactly

- 1 AUIl the working thread through the edge of the braid, over and under the two diverging threads, and through the edge of the braid on the other side until the half wheel is of sufficient size.

Bars of Point d'Angleterre.

Insertion with big wheels. When a more showy insertion is desired, a design with larger wheels may be used. To accomplish this a thread is car- ried lengthwise across the middle of the space to be filled and fastened into position in the braid at the ends of the space. The working thread is then carried by means of overcasting stitches along the open edge of the braid to the corner of the space. A loose loop is then formed across this end of the space by passing the working thread through the opposite corner, and leaving the loop loose enough to form the vertical half of a diamond-shaped space. The thread is then car- ried by means of overcasting stitches a sufficient distance along the braid at the side of the space to be filled.

The needle is then thrust over the former loop, under the horizontal thread that was first carried across the length of the space, and again over the - 1- thread of the

loop. It is then carried to the op- posite side of the space and fas- tened to the edge of the braid at exactly the same distance from the corner as is its opposite end from the other corner. The thread is then carried di- rectly across the space from one end of this second or inverted, loop to the other, and just tightly enough to form a straight line across the space.

This thread is then overcast to the middle of the space, where a wheel of four or more circlings of

the threads is woven with the thread passing each time over the same threads of the intersection. Should the circles of the resulting wheels be prone to slip out of place the needle may be thrust between the two threads of the twisted length, but with careful work this will not be necessary. The wheel being completed, the thread is carried back

of it to its opposite side, where the other half of the straight thread is overcast and the needle then drawn through, and the thread tightened in foundation threads on one side, and two on the the buttonhole knot which results. This com- other side of the leaf. When an effect not so heavy pletes the first group of leaflets. The needle is is desired, the thread passing all around the leaf then again thrust into the braid at. the left side of may be omitted. This makes two foundation the space, and the second pair of leaflets begun. threads on one side and one on the other, and is After the leaflets are tied together with the but- somewhat more difficult to darn. This leaf is then tonhole knot, the working thread may be carried darned, after which the leaf on the right side is alternately over the leaves and under the midrib, cir- finished in a similar manner. cling the knot a sufficient number of times to make The outlines for the second pair of side leaves a wheel or rosette at the intersection of the leaflets. are then made and tied to the midrib with a but- tonhole knot as were the first two. The working

Leaf Insertion. thread is then passed one and a half times around the two threads of the midrib that is to form the An insertion with leaves in darning stitch is middle of the next trio of leaves. The needle is excellent where a heavy, rich effect is desired. passed through the knot each time at the point of The working thread is attached to the end of the this leaf. This is at the base of the completed space at which the first terminal leaf of the inser- trio of leaves above. The middle leaf is then tion is to be worked. This thread is then carried filled the darning stitch, as are each of the to the opposite end of the space, thrust through a with proceeds in this until single loop of the braid, and carried back, un- side leaves. The work way the entire space is filled. twisted, to the starting point. It is then carried to the left side of the space, and attached to the Cluster Insertion. braid at that point by having the needle thrust

under not more than two This is one of the most charming and use- threads of the open edge ful of the insertions, and the ease with which

of the braid. The thread it is made increases its popularity. It is equally is then carried to the right appropriate for straight or curved spaces. Two side of the space, and twisted parallel bars are worked, and the thread caught into the braid in for the third bar carried across and overcast nearly the same manner at a point to the middle, when the three bars, two twisted exactly opposite the point and one incomplete, are joined by fine, tight but- of attachment on the left tonhole stitches, worked over them close together.

side. The thread is then The twisting of the third A brought back to the mid- ^vrrrr bar is then completed.

rib, or two long threads. The first and third bars Fig. 36. Leap Insertion.

The needle is then thrust of each group should be j ust behind all the threads, and drawn up in a tight loose or slack enough to buttonhole knot, as is shown in the illustration admit of their being fas- for insertion with branches, Fig. 34. tened, by the buttonhole The thread is then carried, for a second time, stitches, to the middle bar, around the terminal or first leaf, which is then filled without drawing the braid from point to knot with a close succession of darn- out of place. The first bar ing stitches over and under the threads outlining of each succeeding trio the leaf. At the completion of this leaf, the thread should be placed close to is carried around the left leaf, and passed again the last bar of the preced- through the braid at its point. This makes three tion. ing group. Network Stitches.

Single Net Stitch. in the pattern books of the sixteenth century are all of the Reticella type, and cannot be bought •INGLE net stitch, called Brussels point under designation of real Point. (Point de Bruxelles), is the foundation Double Net Stitch. of many of the net stitches, and consists Double net stitch, also called Point de Sorrento, of rows of buttonhole stitches worked shown in Fig. 39, and the two stitch, is made in loosely. The beauty of this stitch lies in the even- the same manner as is the single net stitch, except ness and regularity of the stitches. The loops that here the loops between the buttonhole stitches should all be of the same length, and the buttonhole

are somewhat less rounded ; that is, they are drawn stitches must fall in even lines, forming parallel a little more closely, and, instead of one buttonhole diagonal lines both from the upper right-hand cor- stitch, two are made ner toward the lower left, and from the upper left close together. In or- toward the lower right. The chief difficulty in der to keep them thus working this stitch is at the ends of the rows. near each other, the The loops form diamond-shaped spaces, and great second stitch must be care must be taken at the ends of each row to so drawn tightly up to place the stitches that the fractional spaces shall the first. The same be true parts of whole Doi ULE Net Stitch. rules as to evenness, spaces. A little care regularity, widening, in regulating the dis- and narrowing that are given for the single net tance along its edge, stitch apply to this as well as all other net in carrying the stitches. The two stitch, while taking twice as thread to position long as the single net stitch, is more easily made for the next row of perfect, as the two stitches aid in keeping the stitches, and trial Fig. 38. Single Net Stitch. work firm and true. This is one of the most sat- placing of the thread isfactory of the net stitches. to note the effect, will soon lead to great profi- ciency in this respect. Every loop should, in the Three Stitch. following row, receive a buttonhole stitch, and all The three stitch is also called Point de Sorrento, widening and narrowing must be done at the ends and is identical with the two stitch, except that of the rows. The stitches must be kept even, and three close buttonhole stitches are used instead of the loops of the same size. When this is done, two. This results in a heavier, more solid effect. the widening and narrowing attends to itself. The If a still closer effect is desired, four buttonhole worker should never attempt to retain the same stitches may be used. In this case the intervening number of stitches in every row throughout an loop should be just long enough to accommodate irregular space. The space must regulate the the four stitches that number of stitches, and accommodate only just are to be placed in it so many as there is room for when keeping them when working the next at their regular size. This stitch may be made row. These stitches with large open loops, giving a very open, lacy may be combined and effect, or the loops may be made small, and conse- varied in different quently the work much more close in appearance. ways. A good effect alter- Both for background and for filling in, this is a is produced by Fig. 40. Three Stitch. very useful stitch, and will be found especially nating first a row of desirable for large spaces. single net stitch, and then a row of three stitch. Venice originated Point proper, which may have Three rows of single net stitch may be followed been worked there in isolated instances before by three rows of the two stitch. In fact it is the

1600, but it came prominently forward towards the variation and combination of these stitches that middle of the seventeenth century. Designs given form many of the intricate lace stitches.

17 Buttonholed Net Stitch. of stitches than the preceding pattern, but, like it, buttonhole stitches form vertical Where a network showing a heavy effect is the rows of close end of the space filled. desired, buttonholed net stitch is excellent. A lines from end to row of Brussels net is worked with wide, regular loops. Into each of these loops is worked a regu- Point de Venise Stitches. lar number of buttonhole stitches sufficient to

completely fill the loop from one buttonhole stitch Point de Venise, often called shell, seed, or side to the next. The third row is like the first — a stitch, is very popular, and suitable either for

row of wide Brussels net stitches. Each stitch is edgings or for the filling in of spaces. For the placed in the little loop between the groups of former a single row of "shells" is worked around buttonhole stitches of the edge of the completed lace. For filling in the second row. The spaces, the work is done in rows. Beginning at fourth row is like the the right-hand corner of the space to be filled, a second. When finished row of even, rather loose buttonhole stitches is the groups of close but- worked. The thread is carried down the side of tonhole stitches should the braid the distance equal to the width of a form vertical rows across stitch. Into the first loop is pilaced a buttonhole the space filled. Care stitch, and as in the Petit Point de Venise, this should be taken not to Buttonholed Net stitch is tied by another buttonhole stitch worked Stitch. draw the work to one sideways. This stitch should be far enough from side or the other, and in this way pull these rows the top of the buttonhole stitch being covered to out of the vertical. In an oblong or long pointed accommodate three other rather tightly drawn space, the group of close stitches at the middle of buttonhole stitches, which are worked side by side the top row should extend to the extreme point and each above its predecessor until the last one of the opposite end. As buttonhole stitch is made covers the end of the loop upon which the shell more readily from the left to the right, the rows is built. This shell being finished, a buttonhole of close stitches may be worked in that direction, stitch is placed in the next loop of the first row, and the open rows from right to left. This is and another shell worked upon it. In placing the accomplished by beginning the work at the upper stitches of the shell, the right-hand corner. needle is thrust under

Another buttonholed net stitch is shown in Fig. and at right angles with

42. The first row of this stitch is formed by both threads of the but- working three buttonhole stitches rather close tonhole stitch to be cov- together (with just a little more than room be- ered. tween them for another stitch), and then begin- The size of the shell ning a second group of three stitches sufficiently depends upon the num- Fig. 43. Point de Venise. far from the first to ber of side stitches make the long loop be- worked, and upon how tightly they are drawn. tween the two groups Four stitches is the usual number. A more curved equal in length to the effect is obtained if the first stitch is quite tightly space occupied by the drawn, and the others made looser. The row of groups of three stitches. shells being completed, the third row is worked. In the second row the This consists of a row of single net stitches, one long loops are nearly buttonhole stitch being placed between each shell, Fig. 42. Buttonholed Net filled with a close row and the loop drawn Stitch. up so as to fit like a saucer of buttonhole stitches, around the shell above it. This gives a rather anil a single buttonhole stitch is placed in each of close effect, and is decidedly pretty. Where a the two loops formed between the groups of three more open result is desired, the loops may be stitches of the previous row. The third row is made larger. In this case the loops upon which like the first, and the fourth row is like the second. the shells are made must also be made larger, as

The result is a more open, fanciful arrangement all the loops throughout must be of the same size.

18 In widening, very great care must be taken not to corner, and when make the loops larger, the opposite up- or stint the number of per right corner shells, and so give the is reached the latter part of the work thread is fas- straggly, a loose appear- tened to the ance, very different from braid and carried the first part. down its edge for Another variation of a space equal to Fig. 44. Point de Venise. Point de V e n i s e is the width of the Pig. 46. Point de Venisk. shown in Fig. 44. In this the row of single net stitches of the stitches is omitted, and a shell is worked upon first row. The second row is like the first, except every loop of each row. This causes the shells of that it proceeds from right to left. This method the first and third rows to slant toward the left causes the side stitches of every alternate row to while the shells of the second and fourth rows point to the left, and the intervening rows to point slant toward the right. Worked in this way, the to the right. When it is desired to have all the result is a heavy, sumptuous stitch, and is very side stitches lie in the same direction, the thread, beautiful. Perhaps the fact that it is so much at the completion of the first row, is carried to the more slowly worked is the reason we find it less left side by thrusting the needle once through often in use than the more favored variety with each loop of the first row, and in this way carrying the row of net stitches. it across the space. This gives a corded effect to Still another Point de the loops. The thread is carried down the side of

Venise stitch, Pig. 45, is the braid, and the working of the second row is varied as well as made begun. more open, and worked These Point de Venise stitches may be distin- in less time by omitting guished from each other by calling them accord- every other shell. The ing to the number of stitches used. The two-one alternating rows of Brus- Point de Venise stitch consists of two net stitches

Fig. 45. Point de Venise. sels net stitches are made and one side stitch. The two-two stitch is com- as in Fig. 43. In the posed of two net stitches and two side stitches. second row a loop is made, and a shell worked The three-one is made of three net stitches and upon it. A second loop has the shell omitted. one side stitch, while one net stitch and three On the third loop a shell is worked. Alternating side stitches is called the one-three Point de in this way the row is finished. Great care must Venise. be used in putting in the net stitches of the third row to avoid skipping a stitch. A stitch must be Petit Point de Venise. placed close upon each side of every shell of the This stitch may be worked openly or as com- row above. This ensures a buttonhole stitch upon pactly as desired. The first method gives an each side of the single stitches between the open lacy effect, while the second shows a shells. When finished the pattern shows rows of stitch almost solid in appearance, so little space parallel diagonal lines of shells across the space is there between the stitches. Beginning at the filled. The beauty of this stitch depends upon its upper left corner, a perfect regularity. loose buttonhole stitch A pleasing arrangement of Point de Venise is first made, and a stitches is made by working one net stitch beneath second buttonhole which three or four side stitches are placed. This stitch is worked side- stitch may be worked in two ways. The loops ways over or around between the single net stitches are made sufficiently the first one. This is loose to admit of the placing of the three or four drawn tightly, and so

FlG - 47 PETIT PolNT DE Venise - siae stitches, which fill the loop until it is almost secures the first stitch '

Straight. The work is begun at the upper left in place. A second loose buttonhole stitch is

19 worked and tied by a " side " stitch, and this is Point d'Espagne — Spanish Point Stitches. continued to the end of the row. The thread The Spanish point stitches form a group of very is then carried down the braid for a distance equal distinctive difference from the other lace stitches. to the width of the stitch. The second row is Instead of the scalloped or looped appearance of then worked in the same way as the first. This the foregoing stitches, they produce a rectangular is continued until the space is finished. effect of horizontal parallel lines connected at right A pretty Point de Venise stitch is formed by a angles by the vertical twisted stitches. Their union of the double appearance is very open and effective, and, besides net stitch, or Point making very good filling-in stitches for the design de Sorrento, and of the pattern, they give excellent results when the side stitch. used to fill in backgrounds. As in all the filling The thread is fas- stitches, the lines must be perfectly even and reg- tened at the upper ular to obtain a satisfactory effect. left corner of the Fig. 48. Point de VeniseT* gpace to be filledj Spanish Point. and two net stitches set close together along the Open edge of the upper The long effect of the stitch is the result of the braid. These are extra twist given the thread by the method of bound together by forming the stitch. The thread is fastened at the a third buttonhole upper left corner of the space and carried down stitch set sideways the edge of the left-hand braid for the required across the base of distance, or the width of the stitch, which varies the two net stitches. in length according to the degree of fineness or To accomplish this, coarseness of the after the second net working thread. Fig. stitch is in place, 49. Point de Venise. The thumb of the

left is placed the needle is thrust in the loop at the left of the hand upon the thread as two stitches, and near the braid as is drawn up closely conveniently prac- in the buttonhole tical. thread knot. Two more The is then carried to Fig. 51. Open Spanish Point. net stitches are the right of the thumb, and again placed under it then made in the in such way that the thumb holds down both edge of the braid a sides of the loop which is beneath it. The needle at a distance from is then thrust at the proper place through the the first pair equal upper braid, over the nearer thread of the loop, to the space they Fig. 50. Point de Venise. and under farther thread. thumb is kept occupy, and with the The on the loop until the working thread has been the connecting loop drawn sufficiently tight to drawn nearly to the completion of the stitch. make the rows of stitches lie in straight, parallel This is repeated to the end of the row, when the lines. The side stitch is then placed in position work is reversed and the second row of stitches beneath them, and the work continued to the end put in. This is accomplished by forming the of the row. The second row is like the first, except loop on the left side of the thumb, proceeding that in working from right to left the direction of as before. This method of working the stitch is the stitches is reversed. clearly illustrated in Fig. 51. Variations of this stitch are formed by placing two side stitches beneath to guard the two net stitches, or by working three net stitches with one Spanish Point. side stitch. Other variations of these useful The first row of this stitch is worked just as is stitches will suggest themselves to the lace the first row of the preceding one. At the com- maker. pletion of the row the working thread is car-

20 ried back to the left side of the space by passing the needle once

=ttj =c through each loop of the first row and drawing the thread up tight. Only one stitch Fig. 52. Spanish Point. can successfully be taken up by the needle at a time, as putting the needle through several loops and then drawing the thread is very apt to prdl the stitches out of place, and so make them slant instead of maintaining the desired vertical position. When the working thread has reached the left side of the space, it is carried down the edge of the braid and the second row of loop stitches worked.

Spanish Point.

A very pretty variation of this stitch is formed by placing the stitches in groups. See Fig. 53. Three Spanish point stitches are worked at regular, somewhat close intervals, as in the former stitch. Space enough for two stitches is omitted, and the first stitch of the next group of three stitches is placed just where the sixth stitch would have been worked had not the stitches belonging to the fourth and fifth spaces been omitted. These groups of three stitches are continued across the space and the working thread entered into the luaid. The needle

is then thrust once through each of the two smaller loops and twice through the longer loop that separates the' groups of stitches. When the thread has been brought clear across the space, it is entered into the braid and carried by overcasting stitches the necessary distance along the edge of the braid. The second row of the groups of stitches is then begun. The first stitch of the first group is placed in the loop between the first and second stitches of the row above. The second stitch is placed in the .

placed in the loops between the groups of four Shell Insertion. stitches of the second row. The fourth row con- One of the most beautiful of all the insertions is sists of groups of composed of Spanish point stitches. The thread

two stitches placed is fastened at the upper left corner of the space,

between the or, in the case of an oval-shaped space, in the groups of three of upper point. It is then carried by overcasting the preceding row, stitches down the left edge of the braid, a distance and the fifth row equal to the length of the Spanish point stitches. consists of one Into the middle of the braid, at the end of the stitch between the space, four Spanish point stitches are wr orked, two of the fourth entering the same point in row and forms the the braid. The thread is Fig. 55. Spanish Point. point of the tri- then attached to the edge angle. The sixth row is a repetition of the first, of the braid at the right side and a row of new points is begun. A long, narrow of the space exactly the diamond design may be made by reversing the same distance from the cor- order of the stitches at the beginning of the second ner as it is on the left side. row of points. To accomplish this a row of two The working thread is over- stitches would be worked on the row following cast once (or twice if the the fifth row of single stitches. This would be space be wide) over the increased to three stitches in the next row, and so straight thread connected continued until the ninth row would be reached with the braid at the right and worked like the first. side and once over each small loop between the Spanish Point Insertion. Spanish point stitches, and, finally, once or twice over Long, narrow spaces may be filled with Spanish the thread connected with point stitches. Row after row of these stitches Fig. 57. Shell Insertion. the braid at the left side. are worked along the length of the space, and may the side of the braid the be so continued until the opposite edge of the It is then carried down before, four Spanish point space is reached, same distance as and when the returning stitches are placed between the second and third row. thread is again thread is used to at- stitches of the first The the tach the last row of fastened to the braid and overcast through the work stitches to the adj oin- stitches to the left side of the space, and ing braid. In the so continued until the space is filled. case of spaces of irregular width, Spanish Net Stitches. when only one row The various arrangements and groupings of the beautiful of stitches remains Spanish net stitches form many and or s to be worked at the practical n e t w k Fig. 56. Spanish Point Insertion. narrow parts of the Where a very close ef- fect is desired, good space, the pattern is turned around, and the last obtained row worked from the edge of the second braid, results may be by working row after and each stitch, as the work proceeds, is attached by overcasting stitches to the already finished row of close Spanish net in rows. Where the space is wider, longer stitches stitches as shown are formed by increasing the number of the twist- Fig. 58. Beginning at ings of the working thread around the stitch, as the upper left corner shown in the illustration. A little practice will of the space, a row of enable the worker to adapt this stitch to spaces of Spanish net stitches is Fig. 58. Spanish Net. different shapes. worked, with just space

22 e

enough between them to provide room for the stitches of the next row, one of which is placed on each tiny loop between the stitches of the pre- ceding row. The second row may be worked from right to left, or, when a heavier effect is desired, the working thread may be carried to the left side by overcasting it once through each loop.

Double Spanish Net Is the more open result obtained when the stitches are arranged in pairs. Two close Spanish net stitches are worked ; a space sufficient to accom- modate two more stitches is left open, and is followed by a second pair of stitches similar to the first pair. In other words, the stitches are exactly as in close Spanish net, except that every other pair of stitches is omitted. In this stitch, to obtain

good results, it

is necessary on reaching the end of each row to overcast the working thread through the loops back to the left side of the space. This maintains Fig. 59. Double Spanish Net. the parallel effect desired. The second row is exactly like the first, except that the pairs of stitches are placed upon the long bar between the pairs of stitches of the preceding row.

Triple Spanish Net.

Still another arrangement is called triple Spanish net, or treble Point d'Espagne. This arrangement

is exactly I

j like t h

d o ub 1 e Spanish net, except that the stitches a re in groups of threes instead of being in pairs as in the double Spanish stitch. second row consists of groups of five Spanish net along the edge of the braid for the same distance stitches worked over each long loop or bar. The as before, and three buttonhole stitches are worked thread is beneath the three of the former row, leaving the again overcast long loop between each group. These three to the left stitches are not placed in the loops between the side, and the former groups of third row be- stitches, but the

gun. This is = PrAaifeiijagi—1^^ needle is thrust

like the first between the two

row, and is threads of each composed of buttonhole stitch. pairs of Span- This brings the ish net stitches n e w r o w o f worked over stitches exactly

Fig. 02. Spanish Net. the loops be- beneath the other Fig. 64. Spanish Net Stitch. tween the three above. groups of five stitches of the second row. After A variation of this stitch is shown in Fig. 64, and •each row the thread is overcast to the left side of is obtained by working only two buttonhole stitches the space, unless it is preferred to work alternately in each group of this row, and putting them on the from left to right, and right to left. When finished, loops between the buttonhole stitches of the former this network presents a broken check appearance, row. of oblongs and little squares, that is very effective. In the Spanish Net stitch illustrated in Fig. Venetian or Point de Sorrento Stitch. 63 the thread is fastened in the corner and then Point de Sorrento. — Line Stitch. — The Vene- carried by overcasting stitches along the edge of tian stitches form one of the prettiest and most the braid about a quarter of an inch below. A net effective groups of stitches used. They are always stitch is then placed in the upper braid about one- less transparent than similar stitches without the eighth of an inch from the comer. This is followed straight line. When worked openly they present a by two other net cobwebby, misty effect that is decidedly beautiful.

stitches set close The thread is fastened at the left-hand corner together. A sec- of the space to be ond group of three filled, and a row stitches is then of single net

worked at a dis- stitches is worked t a n c e from the across the space first group equal at regular dis- to their own tances from each width. Between Fig. 65. Line Stitch. other, and f a r these groups of enough apart to Fig. 63. Spanish Net Stitch. net stitches the leave medium-sized loops between, as is shown in

thread is allowed the illustration. When the end of the row is to fall in a long loop that reaches a very little reached, the thread is carried down the side of the below the level of the thread at its starting-point. braid, until it is on a line with the lower edge of These loose loops and groups of three net stitches the loops. It is then carried across the space in a are continued across the width of the space. straight line, and passed through the edge of the The thread is then carried to the same distance braid at the left side. Care must be taken to have from the corner as it is at the opposite side. the thread tight enough to admit of no sagging, In every long loop of the first row three close but not tight enough to draw the braid one particle buttonhole stitches are worked, and the intervening from its place, and each successive line must be thread drawn quite tight in order to form a straight exactly parallel with its predecessors. line across the space. The thread is then carried The second row of loops is then worked, and in

24 every stitch the needle is thrust through the loop This stitch may also be made with three button-

above and back of the parallel thread, so that it is hole stitches in each loop, as shown in Fig. 68. always held with the loop in the twist of the net Worked in stitch, and forms a part of the body of the lace. this the way =lffi A very novel effect is produced by missing some effect is de- of the loops of the network, and in the next row cidedly close working the same number of stitches in the loops and solid, un- so formed. The result is a series of open spaces less the loops in the close net work that is very odd. These are made suf- open spaces may be placed at regular intervals over ficiently large the entire network, or may be so spaced as to to allow ample form a design. In Fig. 66 the first row is a series space for the of close buttonhole stitches. The thread is then three stitches. carried back to the opposite side, and a second row of buttonhole stitches over it is begun. Four of these stitches are placed, and the next four omitted. The following six are worked, and the next four omitted. The next four are w o r k e d.

The next row is worked without any omissions. When the open Fig. 66. Venetian Stitch. spaces are reached, the same number of stitches are worked in each as were omitted in the former row. In the following row the open space is left just between and below the two spaces of the upper row. Another com- plete row follows. The sixth row is a repetition of the second row.

Double Venetian or Cobweb Stitch.

One of the most beautiful and popular of all the lace stitches is the double Venetian. This is made in the same way as the single Ve- netian, except that, instead of a single button- hole s t i t c h in each loop, two are used. The two stitches aid Fig. 67. Cobweb Stitch. each other in keeping the thread firmly in place, and make a very regular, substantial filling, that has a very fine lace-like appearance. The loop between the

stitches is left loose and held in place with a pin as shown in the illustration. lying close together but not crossing. At the se- Point de Bruxelles. lected distance a second line parallel with the first Another variation of Brussels point is made by is laid across the space, and the thread as before arranging the stitches in points or triangles. In returned to its beginning. This is repeated until Fig. 72, the first row consists of Brussels point the space is filled with rows of double parallel stitches in an even, regular row just far enough lines at equal distances apart. apart from each other to easily accommodate the Beginning near the upper right corner, a diago- stitches of the next row. In the second row two nal line is laid across the first lines at an angle of stitches (or one loop) are omitted, and one net stitch forty-five degrees, which makes it at right angles worked in each of the next two loops. Two more with the first se- stitches are omitted and followed by two net ries. The thread, stitches, one on its return to placed in each the starting place, of the two loops is passed three or following. This four times around arrangement of the threads of the two stitches and

i n t e r s e c t i o ns, an omitted loop

which are not tied. is continued to This working the end of the th read must al- row. ways pass under In the third Fig. 72. Point de Bruxelles. Fig. 70. Spider or Wheel Stitch. the double threads row one net stitch

of the completed is placed between each group of two net stitches series of parallel lines and over the single lines. of the second row. This row should be worked When the wheel is sufficiently large, the thread is just loose enough to allow the long loops between passed to the next intersection (which in case of the single net stitches to fall in very slightly the first row is the braid). A second thread is curved lines. The fourth row is worked by plac- thrown across the space parallel with the first, and ing three net stitches on each of the long loops of upon its return wheels are made at each intersec- the fourth row. This is the first row of the second tion. This is continued until the space is filled. series of triangles, and is followed by a row of net stitches in pairs placed in the same way as in the Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Point). second row, that is, two net stitches, one in each A very pretty arrangement of Brussels point loop, and then the omission of one loop, followed by stitches is shown in Fig. 71. A row of net stitches two more net stitches. The next row is the row is worked in pairs of single net stitches that form the points of the across the space. triangle. The two stitches are Larger triangles (see Fig. 73) are worked in the placed nearly but same way, except that the number of stitches in

not quite close to- the triangles is increased, and consequently more gether. A space rows are re- slightly greater than quired to com-

that occupied by plete the fig- these pairs of ures. stitches is left be- The first Fig. 71. Point de Bruxelles. tween each group. row is the The second row consists of a single net stitch same continu- placed between the pairs of net stitches forming the ous r o w of groups of the first row. The third row is formed single net by placing two net stitches in every loop formed stitches as is by the distance between the single net stitches of the shown in the second row. The fourth row is like the second. Fig. 73. Point de Bruxelles. smaller tri-

26 angles. In the second row four stitches are worked and one loop omitted. In the third row three stitches are placed in the three loops of the pre- ceding row, and so the work is continued till the points of the triangles are formed. In this stitch, the loops being longer, they must be kept tight or straight enough to prevent the work from becoming too full for the space it occu- pies, and so the group of five stitches that begin each series or row of triangles may just fill the long loop prepared for them between the single stitches of the last row. Many very pleasing results may be obtained by the arranging and grouping in various ways of Brussels net stitches. In Fig. 74 the first row con- sists of a series of single net stitches set at regular distances apart. The second row is the same until the middle loop is reached, when three net stitches instead of one are worked. The single net stitches

' H II are then con- tinued to the end of the row. In the third row a group of three net

s t i t c h es is placed in the first whole loop at the right of the group of three in the second row. A single net stitch is placed in the half loop at either side ad- joining the group of three in the second row. In the next whole loop following, a second group of three stitches is worked. The fourth row is like the first. This brings the three net stitches ex- actly below those of the second row, and completes the quadrilateral or diamond-shaped pattern of the design. In the fifth row two figures are to be begun, so the first group of three stitches is placed in the third whole loop preceding the close stitches of the row before, and another group of three is placed in the third whole loop following the close stitches of the previous row. These two groups of close stitches are the upper ends of the two quadrilateral figures to be worked. In the next row the close net stitches are, as in the third row, placed in the first whole loop at the right and at left corner of the space to be filled and carried down the side of the braid a distance nearly twice the length of a Spanish net stitch. At the same distance from the right of the corner, the needle is thrust into the edge, of the Fig. 76. Greek Net Stitch. braid, and a single Spanish net stitch worked.

The thread is left loose or slack enough to fall in a rather long or decided loop equal in length to two of the Spanish net stitches. These single stitches are worked at regular distances across the entire length of the space, and are lifted up or shortened by a thrust of the needle in order to lengthen the loops and keep the net stitches the length of one side of the hexagon under construc- tion. Each loop forms two sides of the hexagon. When the first row is completed, the thread is carried through the braid by a single stitch, and

is overcast twice over each loop, evenly, and with-

out drawing the loop out of its proper position,

until the opposite side of the space is reached.

The thread is then overcast along the edge of the braid the required distance, and a second row of

single Spanish net stitches, like the first row, is made. The fourth row, like the second, consists of two overcasting stitches in each loop of the previous row.

Point Turque — Turkish Point.

The distinctive feature of Turkish point is the way in which the threads are knotted. When a diamond-shaped mesh is desired, the straight thread crossing the space may be omitted. When there is danger of not getting the loops

exactly the same length, it is wise to thrust a pin through the pattern at the proper place, and pass

the thread to form the loop around it. The expe- rienced worker will doubtless find this use of the pin unnecessary. The thread is fastened in the upper left corner, and is carried down the edge of the braid a distance from the upper braid equal to the required length of the loops. The first stitch in the upper braid is placed a distance from the corner just half the width of the re- the corner a plain buttonhole stitch is worked in the upper braid. Close to this a Turkish point stitch is worked. At the required distance from this pair of stitches a second pair is placed, with the loop between the two pairs long or slack. This is re- peated to the end of the row. The thread is then carried down the side of the space, and the second row begun. This is like the first except that, being begun at the left side, the plain buttonhole stitch is each time at the left of the Turkish point stitch.

This is continued until the second and each suc- ceeding row is completed.

Point de Filet. Net Groundwork Stitch.

Point de Filet is an easy, speedy, and, at the same time, very beautiful stitch used for back- ground or groundwork, instead of Brussels net.

It is really an imitation of netting. It is worked diagonally across the space to be filled. The thread is fastened at the upper left corner of the space, and brought down the edge of the braid a distance equal to one side of the desired squares of the network. It is then carried across the left corner of the space, and fastened t o the upper braid at a point equally distant from the corner. The loop must be just twice the length of the proposed

square, s o that when held in place by the knots of the next row it will form two sides of the corner square. The thread is then carried along the edge of the upper braid the same distance as before, and is fastened into the corner loop by means of a Turk- ish net stitch. The thread is then attached to the braid at the left the same distance as before from the adjoining fastening. These rows of diagonal loops, secured by knots of Turkish net stitch, are continued until the space is filled. The beauty of this stitch lies in its perfect accuracy. The verti- cal lines must be parallel and the horizontal lines must be parallel. This necessitates the making of all the loops of exactly the same length. To facil- )

This is exactly as the " shells " in Point de Venise work another knot. Continue in this way until this are made, only two instead of four stitches are line and the others which are necessary to fill the used. This forms the " knots " that hold the space are completed. This results in the open

parallel threads in place. One-half inch nearer Bruges lace stitch, which is very effective when an the front braid work another buttonhole stitch over open network is desired.

the long thread and fill its length as before with When it is decided to have the rosettes at the two buttonhole stitches. Repeat this at intervals intersections, they are worked as each intersection

of half an inch until the nearer or front braid is is reached. The work is exactly as above until reached. Overcast the working thread along the the knot which ties the intersecting threads has

edge of the braid for half an inch, and carry it been worked (see Fig. 81). Around this knot the across the space in a line parallel with the first working thread is woven two or three times, by thread. Fasten it with a single buttonhole stitch passing it over and under the surrounding threads

to the edge of the braid. If the thread is kept in the manner of making a spider, as shown by the parallel, this point of attachment will be exactly position of the needle in Fig. 81. This weaving half an inch from the first thread. Again carry being completed, the work of making the knots the thread one-sixteenth of an inch to the right of that form the rosette is begun at the space to the thread just fastened. At spaces exactly in line, the left of the long thread. In this right angle from right to left, with the knots of the first row, between the front aud left-hand threads two but- make a new series of knots exactly one-half inch tonhole stitches, not too tight, are worked over the apart. Continue this until the entire space is filled last threads of the spider. The needle is then with parallel lines from front to back of the space thrust through the spider from beneath the work and at even distances apart, and whose knots form at the next angle, between the left hand and parallel rows from right to left across the space. back threads, and two more buttonhole stitches are The work is now ready for the second series of worked. This is repeated in the third and fourth parallel lines, which must intersect the first series angles. The needle is then thrust through the exactly half way between the knots of the first spider from beneath near the long thread, and the rows. Turn the work around so that the finished rosette is completed. The knot just between this lines extend from right to left instead of from and the next point of intersection is worked, and front to back. This places the working of the then the knot that ties the next crossing threads second lines in the same position for working as is made and the next rosette begun. This is con- were the first lines. Carry the working thread tinued until a rosette adorns each intersection by overcasting stitches along the edge of the braids throughout the space. A variation of this stitch until a thread carried across the space wdl inter- may be obtained by surrounding the centre with sect the parallel lines almost half-way between the a spider, but omitting the outer knots. first two rows of knots. Fasten this thread with a buttonhole stitch and overcast it one-sixteenth of Point d'Angleterre. an inch along the edge of the braid. Work a but- This ground network is excellent for large tonhole stitch over this long thread just as far spaces. The thread is fastened at the upper from the intersection of the two lines as are the left corner, and knots of the first lines. Over this buttonhole stitch carried along the work the two close buttonhole stitches that form upper braid the the knot. Work another buttonhole stitch over the required distances long thread exactly at the point of intersection. for one check or Work the two stitches that are to form the knot square of the net- over both the buttonhole stitch and the threads of work. It is then the finished line./ Draw these stitches tight. This carried across the knot holds the two sets of lines together. At the space to the oppo- proper place on the long thread (which is the same site side and en- distance from the intersection as the other three tered into the Fig. 82. Point d'Angleterke. knots surrounding it, and is also half-way between braid, always keep- the first and second parallel lines already finished ing the working thread perfectly parallel to

30 the edge of the left braid. The working thread is then overcast along the edge of the front braid, a distance equal to the distance between the first thread and the left braid. It is then carried to the upper or back braid and attached, forming another parallel line. These threads are contin- ued across the space, all equally distant, and all parallel. Similar parallel threads are then laid across the space from right to left, and form a network of little perfect squares. The thread is next carried in diagonal lines from the end of each alternate parallel thread crossing the squares from right to left, and from left to right, and completing the network.

The thread is fastened in the upper left corner and carried along the left braid to the first hori- zontal parallel threads. This is overcast, and when the first vertical parallel thread is reached, the needle is passed back of both threads, thus securing the back one in the twist. At the first meeting of the four lines a half wheel is woven in an over and under darning stitch. The thread is then overcast in the same way to the next meeting of four threads, and a second half spider or wheel is worked. This is continued across this and each succeeding row until the space is filled.

Point d'Angleterre Rosette Stitch. The thread is fastened at the upper left corner and overcast along the edge of the upper braid the required distance.

It is then carried II J] across the space to the lower or front edge of the braid and entered

into it, making the thread so stretched across the space parallel with the left braid. The work- ing thread is then overcast along the edge of the front braid a distance equal to that between the left braid and the first placed thread. A second thread parallel to the first is then laid across the space, and is followed by other equally distant parallel threads until the right side of the space is reached. Similar parallel threads are then carried across the braid from right to left, over If preferred, these connecting threads may each buttonholed ring the thread is securely fas- be fastened at their point of meeting by a single but- tened and then cut. This makes each little ring tonhole stitch. The three upper threads are then independent of the others. covered with a woven fan and the thread carried Greek Crosses. back through the weaving to the centre. The lower The network for this filling stitch of little Greek three threads are then covered with a second woven crosses is the same as for the half spiders or wheels. fan and the thread again carried to the centre. When the net- The overcasting of the horizontal parallel thread work is com- is then continued till the location for the next pair pleted, the thread of fans is reached. This is continued until all the is fastened at the double fans are worked. upper left corner and overcast Net with Rosette Stitch. to the first horizon- For thisexceedingly beautiful net work the Pe- tal parallel line. nelope canvas, used for tapestry work, is imitated. This thread is The thread is overcast to the fastened at the first meeting of upper right four threads, se- = = = Fig. 86. Crosses. •corner of the U»rl ILssi ^irkxU \ Gkeek curing the verti- space and over- cal thread in the overcasting. From the centre cast along the of this group of four threads, or eight radii, the edge of the thread is passed over and under the middle and right braid a left upper threads, forming a little fan. The needle distance equal is then passed through this fan to the centre, and to one side of a second fan woven over the middle and lower left the required Fig. 85. Net with Rosette Stitch. threads. The third fan covers the middle and larger square of right front threads, and the fourth covers the re- the network. It is then carried to the left braid maining two threads. From the outer end of this in a line parallel to the upper braid, attached to last fan the thread is overcast to the next group the braid, and overcast one stitch along its edge. of threads to be woven. A Greek cross of fans is It is again carried to the right side in a line thus made at every intersection of the vertical and parallel to the former one, and then overcast along diagonal lines of the network. the braid the length of the larger square. A second pair of parallel threads is passed across Point de Reprise. the space, and this is continued until the entire The network for Point de Reprise may be pre- space is covered at regular intervals with these pared in either of two ways. In the first way

pairs of parallel threads. horizontal par a 1 1 e 1 The thread is then overcast along the front lines are carried edge of the braid a distance equal to one side of across the space at the larger squares and woven under the lower and even distances apart. over the upper thread of each pair of horizontal The thread is then lines. It is then overcast one stitch along the attached to the left edge of the braid and returned to the lower edge braid at the left end by passing under the upj^er and over the lower of the upper line, and threads. This alternates the weaving. is then entered into Upon this pretty network the rings are made. w the upper braid at The thread is woven several times around the one - half that dis- small squares and closely buttonholed. The tance from the upper thicker the foundation of circling threads and left corner. It is the more raised the buttonholing upon it, the more then passed under the upper parallel line and effective will be the result. At the completion of again entered into the upper braid at a distance equal to the distance between the upper thread right and lower sides. This completes the network and the upper braid. This is continued across the of equilateral triangles. space and makes equilateral enclosures. At the These triangles are then covered with cones of completion of the first row of enclosed triangles darning. The thread is attached to the point or the thread is at the right end of the upper line. apex of the triangle to be covered, and the thread It is then passed under the second line and back to is passed over and under the foundation threads the first, passing under both the first thread and forming the sides of the triangle until the space the thread looped around it at that point. It is is filled. It is then passed under the threads at again passed under the second thread and back to the corner (which form the apex of another tri- the first, forming the equilateral triangles of the angle) and carried down the side of the adjoining second row. This is continued row by row until triangle to its apex. The darning of this triangle the entire space is laid off in a canvas-like network. is accomplished and the work continued until the The second method of preparing this network is remaining triangles are covered. simpler. The parallel horizontal lines are laid as Another method of covering the triangles con- before. A series of diagonal parallel lines the same sists of the use of buttonhole stitches. The thread distance apart as are the horizontal lines are then is attached to the apex of the triangle. Two close woven over and under the first lines, across the buttonhole stitches are worked over the right space from the upper and right sides to the left foundation thread of the triangle. Then two are and lower sides, crossing the horizontal lines at an worked over the left side. In this way the work- angle of sixty degrees. A second series of diago- ing thread passes from one side to the other of nal lines is then woven in the same way and at the triangle after every second buttonhole stitch the same angle from the upper and left sides to the until the triangle is filled.

Combination and Miscellaneous Stitches.

Combination Stitches. taken between each group of the four close stitches. The fifth row is Brussels net stitches, and the IGURE 88 illustrates several stitches sixth row is like the third. applied to different shaped spaces. In the leaf-shaped space marked A the stitch is worked as folows: Fasten the thread at the upper right corner of the braid. Make a loop across the space and fasten the thread to the left side. Overcast one stitch along the edge of the braid and work seven buttonhole stitches into the loop. Attach the thread to the braid again and overcast two stitches along the edge. The third and fourth rows are Brussels net stitches. In the third row the stitch is taken in the fourth stitch of the group of seven. The fifth row is like the second.

For Fig. 88 B : Fasten the thread to the braid at the upper left corner. Carry the thread across to right side of the space, leaving the thread loose so as to form a loop. Overcast one stitch along the edge of the braid and stretch the thread back from right to left, keeping it perfectly straight. Overcast two stitches down on the braid, and work four buttonhole stitches into the loop and over the straight thread. The fourth sow is an open network where the buttonhole stitches are Bullion Stitch Used for Background. 33 Point de Valenciennes. Combination of Brussels Net. for Point de Valenciennes is another form of dia- The stitches shown in Fig. 88 D may be used increasing or decreasing mond stitch (see Fig. 88 C ). The thread is fastened wide or narrow spaces by at the upper left corner of the space and carried the length of the long loops, or, in filling large down the braid at the left side of the space, a dis- spaces, the width may consist of alternate rows tance slightly more than one buttonhole stitch. of the short and the long loops. Near, but not close to, the corner a row of eight The thread is fastened in the upper left corner, close buttonhole stitches is worked into the upper and one buttonhole stitch is worked into the upper braid. A space equal to three buttonhole stitches braid one-third of the distance across the space. is omitted and a second row of eight stitches is Two close buttonhole stitches are worked in the

worked. This is continued across the space. middle of the space. This is followed by a second

The thread is again carried down the edge of single buttonhole stitch equally distant from the the braid at the right, and a buttonhole stitch is first, The thread is then carried to the braid and placed in the loop between the second and third fastened. The second row is worked from right stitches from the right of the first row. This is to left, and consists of six or more close button- followed by a single close buttonhole stitch in hole stitches worked on the long loop, completely each of the next four loops of the group of eight filling it. Two close buttonhole stitches are

stitches. The result is five close buttonhole stitches worked on each of the small loops, and the second worked in the middle loops of the row above, and long loop is covered with six close buttonhole leaves the two end stitches at either side to ex- stitches. The third row is like the first, and the tend beyond the five below. Into the loop be- fourth row is like the second. tween the groups of eight two close buttonhole The stitch illustrated in Fig. 88 E, like the pre- stitches are worked. Five more stitches are placed ceding one, is suitable for broad or narrow spaces, below the next group of eight, and are followed by and is used for wide spaces by repeating the stripes* the two stitches on the long loop between the groups. of the pattern. This is continued across the space. The third row consists of two buttonhole stitches placed in the two middle loops of each group of five stitches of the row above, and five stitches placed below the groups of two stitches. These groups of five are formed by placing two close buttonhole stitches close to the

first stitch of the group of two above. One stitch is placed on the loop between them, and two close to the second of the two stitches. The fourth row consists of groups of eight stitches placed below the groups of five of the row above.

The fifth row is like the sec- ond, and the sixth is like the third. This arrangement of stitches forms broad, flattened

diamonds, and is suitable for filling large spaces. Another

variation of this stitch is shown in Fig. 89. COHBlSiATl

34 The thread is fastened at the upper left corner a better twist to the threads. When the first thread and carried down the side of the braid one stitch. is brought back to the base it is entered into the braid

•A short distance from the corner a single stitch is at the same point from whence it started. It is again worked into the upper braid. Space for two carried across the space and entered into the braid stitches is omitted, and a second single stitch is at a point j ust as far from the centre to the right worked. These stitches should occupy one-third as the first one was to the left. This is overcast the distance across the space. At the end of the to the base. The third thread is entered into the second third of the space a single buttonhole stitch braid a sufficient distance to the left of the left is worked, making a long loop extending across thread already in place and overcast to the base. the middle of the space. Space for two stitches The opposite right thread is then placed in the is then omitted, and a second single buttonhole same way. The remaining distance at the left of stitch is worked. The thread is then fastened the threads already in place is now filled with four into the braid at the right and carried down one similar threads, all overcast, equally distant and stitch. A single buttonhole stitch is worked into meeting at the base. The right side of the space the short loop between the two buttonhole stitches is filled in the same way. The weaving of the above. Six or more stitches are then placed upon fans should be begun with a long thread and at the long loop, filling it. A single stitch is then the base. The middle fan may be woven first. The worked in the left short loop, and the thread thread is carried over and under the four threads attached to the braid. The third row is like the alternately in a weaving or darning stitch and must first, and the fourth is like the second. be drawn just tight enough to keep the twisted The stitch used in Fig. 88 F is the Petit Point threads in place, to preserve a sharp point at the de Venise and is described on page 19. base and an even edge at the sides of the fan.

When it is desired to begin the pointing, the two

Fans. outer threads are dropped and the weaving is con- Woven fans make a very effective filling (see tinued over and under the two middle threads. Fig. 88). They may be made singly, in pairs, or in When the weaving is completed the needle is trios. They may be built like hour-glasses or like passed from the point to the base of the fan Greek crosses. They may have few or many through its centre, or between the threads of the foundation threads. They may have graduated weaving, so as to be invisible. The thread is now points or they may have a flat end. in place to begin the weaving of the second fan. To make a trio of fans as illustrated, the thread This and the third one are then woven. is fastened at the point of the braid selected for the base of the fans. It is then carried to a point Woven Rays. on the opposite side of the space a distance to Woven rays form another showy effect (see the left of the Fig. 88). The base is naturally the converging part centre just half of the space, and the outer edge of the group of the width of rays is the side of the larger curve. Each ray has the middle sec- its own base and these bases are located close tion or division together, so that each, though a part of the whole of the fan. central effect, is complete in itself. The thread is The desired positions of the outer ends of the passed through rays are selected at equal distances from each other, the braid and and three threads for each ray, diverging from its overcast back own base, are put in position and overcast. These to the base of are covered with the over and under darning or the design, al- weaving stitch throughout their entire length. weaving begin at the narrowest point in ways over- Combination of Fans with Other All must casting from Stitches. the design to be woven. The thread may be at- the worker. To do this the pattern is so held tached to the braid at the completion of each ray that the base is the farthest point in the space or may be carried back through the interior of the from the worker. This way of overcasting ensures first ray and overcast to the base of the next. 35 11 ;

Diamond Stitch. out the work must be of the same length. At each side of single stitch of the first row a When a rich, showy effect is desired, there is no the next both stitches stitch more appropriate for large spaces than the single buttonhole stitch is worked, together. Into the loops between diamond stitch. The beauty of this stitch lies in being kept close following group of four stitches three button- its regularity, and in keeping the diamonds suffi- the ciently close together and in straight rows. The hole stitches are worked. This is continued to the end of the row. The third row also consists thread is fastened in the upper left corner and brought down the side of the braid the distance of of groups of two and three stitches. Into the loops between the stitches of the groups of three in the one buttonhole stitch. second row two buttonhole stitches are worked, At a short distance from this is followed stitches below the the corner, equal to the and by three first is placed space necessary for two following group of two. The stitch on the long loop close to the left of the two stitches stitches, a group of four second stitch is placed between them, and the buttonhole stitches is the right of the two worked. These stitches third on the long loop close to the in each of the must be just far enough stitches. Two stitches placed one followed three apart to admit, on the two loops of the next group are by second row, one similar stitches below the next group of two. This is con- of the row. stitch on each of the tinued to the end consists of groups loops between them. The fourth row, like the first, of four and single stitches. Below the group of These four stitches being 91 stitches, at the left of the space, four stitches completed, a space equal three are worked, care as usual being taken to keep the to three stitches is first and last of this group, which are worked on omitted, and one button- the long loops, close to the other two. This group hole stitch worked. An- of four stitches is followed by a single stitch be- other space of equal 92 tween the two stitches of the row above, and com- length is followed by a pletes the half diamond begun at the first row. second group of four The next group of four stitches follows, and so the stitches. These groups work is continued to the end of the row. of four Stitches and Fig. 89, Diamond. Figs. 90 and 91,

. . , de Sorkento. Fig. 92, below , , Point The fifth row begins the new diamonds stitches are con- single bullion insertion, fig. 93, the half diamonds begun at the first row, and di- tinued across the Space Knotted Russian Stitch. minishes the diamonds begun by the single stitch to be filled, great care of the first row. Two stitches are placed below being taken to keep the spaces between them of the single stitch, and are followed by a group of equal length. The first row being completed, the three stitches below the group of four of the pre- thread is carried down the edge of the braid one ceding row. This is continued to the end of the stitch. row, and is followed by the sixth row, which is In the second row begins the alternate increas- composed of groups of three stitches below the ing and decreasing of the diamonds started by the groups of two stitches of the preceding row, and first row. One buttonhole stitch is placed on the groups of two stitches below the groups of three. long loop, close to the right side of the single stitch The seventh row is like the first, and completes of the first row. This is followed by a second the alternate whole diamonds begun by the first single stitch placed close to the left side of this row. same single stitch of the first row. Into each of Sorrento. the three loops between the four stitches of the Point de is very similar in appearance next group of the first row, a single buttonhole Point de Sorrento stitch. The method of placing stitch is worked. In working the first of these to the double net exceedingly firm, and, where three stitches care must be taken to make the loop the stitches makes it desired, this stitch is very between this and the group of two stitches already an open network is beautiful. The thread is fastened made of the same length as the loops between the practical and of the space, and at equal groups of the first row. All the long loops through- at the upper left corner distances two buttonhole stitches are worked close of the space, a single Spanish net stitch is worked, together. The first is a plain buttonhole stitch and the thread attached to the edge of the braid worked into the edge of the braid ; the second at the left side, a distance from the corner equal stitch is placed close to the first, and is passed to the distance the thread at the right side is from through it. To do this, the needle is thrust both the right corner. The thread is then carried one through the braid and betweeu the two threads stitch down the edge of the braid, and on the that form the sides of the loop of the first stitch, left long loop three close buttonhole stitches are and is then drawn up close in a buttonhole stitch. worked. Through the loop between the second At the proper distance from this pair of stitches and third stitch, the needle is thrust for about half a second buttonhole stitch is worked in the edge its length, and the thread is wound around its of the braid. Into the loop of this stitch a second point ten or twelve times. The thumb is then ibuttonhole stitch is made as before, and so the placed upon the coil of threads, the needle drawn work is continued to the end of the row. The through, and the thread pulled up so closely that rows are all alike, each pair of buttonhole stitches the coil assumes a circular shape. being placed on the loop between the two pairs of This is followed by three more buttonhole stitches above, and each pair of stitches is inter- stitches on the long loop. The long loop at the locked. right of the Spanish net stitch is covered exactly as was the left loop. The three close buttonhole Point de Sorrento. stitches are followed by the picot in bullion stitch This stitch should not be worked too closely. and completed by three more close buttonhole The more open it is, the more showy the effect. stitches. The third row, like the first, consists of In making buttonhole stitches from right to left, a single Spanish net stitch placed on the loop in the thread must be thrown or carried around into the middle of the second row. The fourth row position for each stitch, while, when working from is like the second. When the space to be filled left to right, the thread naturally falls into posi- is rather wide, a greater number of buttonhole tion, and the extra movement of placing it is stitches will be necessary on either side of the. obviated. Hence, it is always well when begin- bullion stitch. ning a stitch, to so regulate your work that the rows having most buttonhole stitches may be Knotted Russian Stitch. worked from left to right. Because of this it is Knotted Russian stitch is a very neat, easily aest to fasten the thread for this arrangement of made, and effective insertion. The space is first Point de Sorrento at the upper right corner of the filled with plain or twisted Riissian stitches made space. At equal distances, and somewhat far at even distances apart, and somewhat close- ipart, groups of two buttonhole stitches, placed together. When the space is curved, care must rather close together, are worked across the space. be taken to regularly place the stitches on the The thread is then carried down the edge of the outer curve at an equally greater distance apart.. Draid the length of a buttonhole stitch, and the This ensures regularity in the result. When the second row of stitches begun. On the loop be- space is entirely filled, the thread is passed to ;ween each pair of loose buttonhole stitches of the the middle of one end of the space, and a close irst row a group of three close buttonhol e stitches buttonhole knot is tied tightly on each single s worked. The third row is like the first, that is, tli read of the insertion as it passes the middle ;wo rather loose buttonhole stitches are worked on of the space. sach of the long loops between the groups of The stitch is especially useful for filling leaf or ;hree stitches of the second row. The fourth row other long narrow space. 8 like the second. Point Lace proper was not produced to any ex- 3ollion Insertion. tent before 1620, whatever may be said to the con-

When a heavy, showy insertion is desired, Fig. trary. Reticella work of the seventeenth century

)2 is excellent. The thread is fastened at the is the nearest approach to it, but still retains lpper right corner and carried down the edge of traces of plaiting and Genoa stitch, which were he braid a distance equal to the length of a Span- never employed in real point. Point proper became sh net stitch. Into the upper braid, at the middle the dress lace par excellence under Louis XIV.

37 end of the row, is Combination Stitches. The thread, upon reaching the again attached to the braid and overcast along its Another pretty network is made by a combina- the length of the Spanish net stitch. The tion of Brussels net and Spanish net stitches, as edge third consists of the single Spanish net stitches shown in Fig. 94. The thread is fastened at the row the little loop between the groups of upper right corner of the space to be filled, and a placed on stitches and just under the stitches row of Brussels net stitches worked at regular in- Brussels net of the first row. The fourth row is like the second. tervals. The thread is then fastened to the edge the network shows a pattern of of the braid at the left of the space, and overcast When completed squares, with the heavy lines of Brussels net along its edge a distance equal to the length of open reaching in parallel lines from right to the Spanish net stitches. Into the first loop of stitches across the space, and the lighter Spanish net the Brussels net stitches of the first row a single left stitches forming parallel lines at right angles to Brussels net stitch is worked. Into the second loop three Spanish net stitches are placed. The the Brussels net stitches. but less' geometrical is third loop holds one Brussels net stitch, and into A similar network made Brussels net stitches the fourth are worked three Spanish net stitches. wholly of (see Fig. 96). The thread is fas- This is continued to the end of the row. The tened at the upper third row is like the first — a row of open Brussels left corner and a row net stitches. The first stitch is placed at the right of the three Spanish net stitches of the row above, of open Brussels net stitches is worked at and the second is placed in the loop at their left. regular intervals In this way the trio of Spanish net stitches is across the space. considered as one stitch, and the loop between the The thread is then first and second Brussels net stitch encloses them overcast along the all. The next Brussels net stitch is placed in the edge of the braid as next loop of the row above, and the work so con- a second tinued to the end of the row. The fourth row is usual, and Brussels composed like the second, of single Brussels net row of open is worked into and trios of Spanish net alternating. The Spanish net the first net stitches are placed in the loops below or under the loops of being the single Brussels net stitches of the second row. row, one stitch each loop. This results in the Spanish net stitches occurring placed in in diagonal lines across the network, and is more The third row is the graceful and artistic than if placed in lines under close row. Into each each other. loop of the second One of the prettiest of networks is composed of row is worked five or alternating rows of Spanish net and Brussels net six close Brussels stitches, as shown in Fig. 95. The thread is fas- net, or buttonhole, tened at the upper left corner, and a row of single stitches. There Spanish net stitches is worked at regular intervals should always be far enough apart to admit on the loop between Combination Stitches. the same number of them five or six close Brussels net stitches. When these stitches in each the opposite edge of the space is reached, the thread loop, and there should be enough of them worked of is attached to the braid, and overcast along its edge closely together to nearly fill the loop. A row the required distance. A group of five or six close open Brussels net stitches is next worked, one Brussels net (or buttonhole) stitches is worked over stitch being placed on each loop between the groups each loop between the Spanish net stitches. These of close buttonhole stitches of the third row. The Brussels net stitches must be evenly and closely next, or fifth row, is like the second, and the sixth worked and there should be enough of them to fill row is like the third. closely, but not crowd, the loop upon which they An exceedingly delicate and attractive stitch is are worked. Each loop of the first row of stitches shown in Fig. 97. The thread is attached to the rows of is filled in this way with the Brussels net stitches. upper right corner of the space, and three

38 open double net stitch are worked. To accomplish other stitch of the row above. The working thread this, two buttonhole stitches close together, and is then carried twice across the space, and should lie drawn rather tight, are worked at regular intervals in close parallel lines just at the edge of the loops into the braid across the space. The second row of the row of consists of two close buttonhole stitches worked Spanish net into each loop of the first row. The third row is stitches. A row like the second. At the completion of the third of Venetian row the thread is overcast along the edge of the stitch is then braid for a distance about equal to that necessary worked over for a Spanish net stitch. A single buttonhole these two- stitch is worked into the first loop of the preced- threads, and the ing row, and left somewhat loose. Point de Venise the loops of the or side stitches are now used. A close buttonhole Spanish net stitch is worked over the single net stitch close to stitches by plac- the loop to which it is attached. This is drawn ing two Brussels closely and followed by three or four more side Fig. 98. Comiunation Stitch. net stitches on Brussels Net, Spanish Net, and Venetian stitches set closely together. There must be each loop be- Stitch. enough of them to so fill the long loop that there tween the Span- is only a slight downward curve to that part left ish net stitches. If preferred, only one straight uncovered, and into which the next row must be thread may be carried across the space for this row worked. When the first group of side, or Point de of Venetian stitch. A second row of Spanish net Venise, stitches is completed, another single long stitches is then worked, one between every two Brussels net stitch is worked into the next loop, and Venetian stitches of the row above. This places this in turn is filled with the same number of side the Spanish net stitches exactly under the Spanish stitches as were used to cover the first long stitch. net stitches already worked in the row above. Two the This is continued to the end of the row, and is rows of Venetian stitch are next made and followed by three rows of double net stitch, after space is completed by the working of two rows of which the row of long Point de Venise stitches is Brussels net. repeated. This is continued in the same order of A very pretty effect is produced by alternating three rows of double net and one of Point de two or three rows of Venetian stitch with one of Venise, until the space is filled. Spanish net throughout the space. In this case the Brussels net stitches at the beginning of the Combination Stitch. network are omitted, and the network should begin with one row of Spanish net stitches and should In Fig. 98 is shown a pretty combination of also end with a row of the same. Brussels net, Spanish net, and Venetian stitches. The thread is fastened at the upper left corner, Combination Stitch. and two rows of Brussels net stitches are worked. in Pig. 99. The The thread is then overcast one stitch lower, along Another pretty stitch is shown corner and a the edge of the braid, at the side of the space, and thread is fastened at the upper right across then carried in a straight line across the width of row of open Brussels net stitches is worked along the edge the space and through the braid at the right side, the space. The thread is overcast the Brussels just below the second row of Brussels net stitches. of the left braid a distance equal to is worked in the Two close buttonhole stitches are worked over each net stitches. A single net stitch This is repeated at loop, and in every instance over the straight thread first loop of the row above. this second stitch a group also. This makes the Venetian stitch. The thread the second loop. Into stitches is worked. The is again carried across the space, and a second row of four close buttonhole the middle of the net- of Venetian stitch worked. In this row one button- thread is passed through in a rather close buttonhole hole stitch is worked between each of the stitches of stitch and drawn up are worked the row above. The working thread is then overcast stitch. Three other similar stitches opening. single along the edge of the braid the required distance, close together in the same A the next loop of and a Spanish net stitch is worked between every Brussels net stitch is placed in 39 the row above, and the row above. The thread is not carried up to this single Brus- the next group of two stitches, but a long loop is sells net stitch is secured, as in the first row, and five close button- followed by an- hole stitches are worked below the group of two other cluster of stitches, swinging on the long loop of the row

four stitches with- above. Another long loop is secured, and five

in the single Brus- more close stitches worked. This is continued

sels net stitch across the space. The fourth row is like the sec- placed upon the ond, and the fifth is like the third. next loop. This is repeated to the Combination Stitch. end of the row. Fig. 101 is a very showy stitch, suitable for heavy, Fig. 90. Combination Stitch. The third row i-> sumptuous effects. The thread is fastened at the like the first the fourth is like and the second. upper right cor- ner, and a row Combination Stitch. of large loops is This exceedingly beautiful stitch was taken made by work- from a piece of lace made in Ireland. The thread ing single Brus- is fastened at the upper left corner. It is then sels net stitches held by the thumb, or secured by a pin, in a long rather far apart. loop, and at a distance to the right of the corner and making the •equal to one side or half of this long loop five loops between close buttonhole stitches are worked. A second somewhat long.

long loop is secured, and five more buttonhole The thread is at- stitches worked. The third long loop follows. tached to the left Fig. 101. Combination Stitch. These loops must be of exactly the same length. braid and car- The thread is entered into the braid at the left, ried down one stitch. A row of ten close button-

and overcast along its edge a distance equal to hole stitches is then worked upon the first loop, two buttonhole stitches. Into the first long loop filling it smoothly but not tightly. The left two close buttonhole stitches are worked. These thumb is then placed firmly upon the second loop are held in place by the thumb, and two more to prevent its being pulled out of shape, and to stitches are placed on the middle loops of the five bring the stitches close up to the edge of the braid stitches of the row in order to preserve the scalloped effect. The first above. Two more buttonhole stitch is then placed upon the second stitches are then loop and drawn up very tightly to the braid. The placed on the next other nine stitches are then worked, and the thumb long loop, and are placed upon the third loop, ready to assist in the followed by two shaping of the next curve. This is continued to on the middle loops the end of the row. The third row is like the of the next group first, except that the buttonhole stitches are placed of five stitches. between the fifth and sixth stitches of each group

This is continued of the row above. The fourth row is like the to the end of the second. Fig. mo. Combination Stitch. row,

The thread is again attached to the braid, and Connected Needle-made Picots. two close stitches are worked at the left of the Connected needle-made picots make a pretty first group of two stitches of the second row. One finish for the edge of a piece of lace, and are made stitch is placed upon the loop between the group after the lace is completed. The thread is at- of two stitches, and close to them at the right two tached to the edge of the braid with a buttonhole more close stitches are worked. This makes a row stitch. Over this another buttonhole stitch, called of five close buttonhole stitches under the two of a seed or side stitch, is worked. This is the little

40 Point de Yenise stitch already given. The thread length of the picot. The thread is then passed is then carried over and through the loop, and is around this pin from right to left, and crossed tied with a again to the right, forming an oval loop. It is

second b u t- then passed across the loop again, and the needle tonhole knot thrust behind the buttonhole stitch and the end or side stitch. of the loop over the thread that again crosses the This is re- picot, and drawn up in a tight buttonhole knot. Fig. 102. Coxxected Picots. peated at reg- At the required distance from the first picot, a ular intervals, leaving the loops between of uniform second buttonhole stitch is made into the edge of size, and long enough to fall in graceful curves. the braid, and the thread between this and the fin-

ished picot is drawn up to form a straight line parallel with the pin is again placed Isolated Needle-made Picots, braid. The in position, and Another method of finishing the edge of lace is the second picot to make isolated picots. These have open pendent is made and loops, and resemble to some extent the machine- tied with a but- made edges. The thread is attached to the braid tonhole knot, with a buttonhole stitch. A pin is then thrust Fig. 103. Isolated Picots. &S before* through the pattern, upon which the lace is These picots are repeated at regular intervals still basted, at a point indicating the required along the edge of the braid.

Net or Applique Lace.

[ANY beautiful effects may be obtained by may be attached by close overcasting stitches. combining lace braids and stitches with A row of braid almost always outlines the edge

net. Marie Antoinette is a net or ap- of the lace. This is also buttonholed firmly to plique lace on a larger scale. The same the net and has an edge of purling overcast to its methods may be employed to make the finest and outer edge. Occasionally the braid is omitted and daintiest of filmy laces. In the former, cords, rings, the purling alone is buttonholed to the net. This

Wftirrmr«iWiiffi?(iBWhoniton lace braids are used.

The net is basted carefully and smoothly on the stamped pattern. Much of the perfection of the finished work depends upon the neatness and exactness of this part of the work. The lines of the pattern will be clearly seen through the net, and over these the braid is basted. Where the net underneath is to be cut away the edge of the braid must be fastened to the net with close buttonhole stitches of fine thread. The inner curves must be fastened into position, and, if the net is not to be cut away, these edges must also be buttonholed to the foundation. With care the drawing of the inner curves into position may be done with the buttonholing. When this can be done the overcasting is unnecessary.

When the net is not to be cut away the braid Fio. 104. Mrthop of Applying Braid to Net.

41 makes a lighter but less durable finish for the the thread around and around a selected mesh of lace. The various lace stitches are then worked the net. Another way is to work bird's-eye stitches, into the design of the braid. In honiton applique using several threads. These bird's-eye stitches the braid medallions are buttonholed into position make pretty leaves and sprays when worked in according to the pattern, which is usually a floral the design of the lace. A third method of dot- design. The stems of the various leaves and ting the net is to work little buttonholed rings at flowers are sometimes worked in tent stitch and regular intervals, or the tiny rings used in point sometimes are darned into the meshes of the net. lace may be added if the net is heavy. The centres of flowers are usually finished with When the lace is finished it is removed from needle-made buttonholed rings. the pattern, and the net to be removed from under Instead of the lace stitches used in the point medallions and lace stitches is carefully cut away. applique, a very pretty effect is obtained by filling The edge is also cut close to the buttonholing that in the spaces with darned net stitches. holds the lace edge in position. The lace is then Dots may be sprinkled over the net by weaving pressed under a damp cloth.

How to Wash Lace.

jO wasli lace successfully, plenty of time When actual washing is necessary, take a glass and great care are necessary. There bottle whose body is as nearly cylindrical as possi-

are instances where hurried work is ble. Half fill this with sand or water, to prevent followed by success, but the chances the water when boiling from tossing the bottle are against it. A Battenberg doily became soiled about too violently in the kettle. Very carefully in the making, so the maker rubbed white soap on wind the lace around this bottle, and cover it with it, thrust it in a basin of hot water, and rubbed it a layer of cheesecloth or muslin. A still better vigorously between her hands, until all trace of soil way is to baste the lace smoothly and exactly on was gone. She then pulled it out into shape, placed a piece of cheesecloth, then wind it securely around it between two towels, and rolled it up. When the bottle, and cover the whole with another layer nearly dry, she ironed it, still between the towels, of the cheesecloth. and, strange to say, that doily showed no bad Into a granite saucepan put some cold water, a results from its rough treatment. small piece of soap, and, if the lace is very dirty, A still more remarkable instance was that of a a pinch of salt. Into this plunge the lace-wound fine modern point lace handkerchief, made with bottle, and let the water come to a boil. As the thread No. 1000. This handkerchief accidentally water gets dirty, pour it off, and replace with more went with the family linen to the washerwoman. cold water and soap. Continue this treatment The adventures it went through at her hands will until the boiling water remains perfectly clean. forever remain a mystery, but when it reached Then remove the bottle, and plunge into a basin of home it was white and clean, ironed and folded, clean, cold water, and rinse thoroughly. Allow and none the worse for its experiences. the lace to remain on the bottle until it is dry, then

But these cases are rare, and are also unfor- remove it and separate from the cheesecloth. tunate, as they lead to carelessness in accomplish- When real lace has become stained or greasy ing a work that should receive the most careful from wear, place it in a bath of pure olive oil, and treatment. Sometimes all that is necessary to allow it to remain for several hours or even a day clean a piece of lace is to lay it between two sheets or two. This gives to the lace the softness of of white or blue paper, first sprinkling it well with texture it possessed when new. After this is powdered magnesia. Then place it between the accomplished, wind the lace on the bottle, and leaves of a book, and allow it to remain for several proceed with the boiling, as already described. days. When the magnesia is shaken out, the lace When the lace is too large to wind around a will be found to be very greatly improved. Lace bottle, baste it evenly and securely to a piece of placed between sheets of blue paper will keep white cheesecloth, with small stitches in parallel lines longer than when placed between white paper, or across the surface of the lace. Baste another piece laid away in a box. of cheesecloth over it, and boil in a series of waters.

42 After the rinsing, which must be accomplished by clean suds. Place the basin where the sun will pressing and squeezing, but never by wringing, pin shine upon it. Change the lather twice a day and the cloth upon which the lace is basted smoothly let the rays of the sun restore the lace to its orig- to a sheet stretched in curtain frames ; or, if this inal whiteness. When it is clean rinse it in several is impossible, to a sheet stretched and pinned over a clear waters, pressing but never squeezing, and drop carpet. Allow the lace to dry, and then remove from it in a dainty heap on a plate. Leave it here till the sheet and from the two layers of cheesecloth. it is only damp, not wet. Dissolve two lumps of If you wish the lace starched, dissolve a suffi- white sugar in a pint of water, and into this drop cient amount of starch in cold water. Boil half of the lace. Allow it to remain for about five minutes. it, and, when partly cool, stir in the uncooked half Squeeze this sweetened water out and spread the and add cold water until the mass is of the consist- lace smoothly upon the soft, flannel-covered ironing- ency of cream. Into this dip the lace, and gently table. Over it place a piece of white muslin and squeeze out the extra amount. Lay the lace in a iron with a warm, not too hot, iron until it is dry. flat mass in the left hand, and spat it thoroughly Remove the cloth, and, taking the lace in the hands, with the right until the starch is well worked in. carefully manipulate with the fingers until the lace Repeat the process if desired, and roll the lace in has been restored to its original shape. Then with a towel and leave for some hours. a fine lace needle, which has no point to tear and To color lace a cream shade add a few drops of split the delicate threads, carefully open and shape black coffee to the starch. To make the lace a each picot. greenish hue use a little cold tea. Irish guipure and real point lace should be

Machine laces may be ironed directly upon then- pinned out, not ironed. This is quite a task, and surfaces. First carefully and smoothly pull all the should be attempted only when the worker has picots into place and see that the lace is exactly in ample time and is not liable to be interrupted. A its original shape ; iron until dry. Then pull the large wooden drum or hoop of sufficient width is lace along its entire length between the fingers best, but if this is not to be had, a large circular from the footing or engrelure to the opposite edge. box or a straight board may be used. Pad the Pass the iron again over its length. The pulling outer surface of this drum on both sides and the relieves the lace of the stiff, starched effect, and ends of the board with several layers of white makes it as pliable as new lace. flannel, and, if preferred, cover this with a piece

To iron unstarched lace place it right side down of white muslin stretched smoothly. upon a pad or ironing-board covered with several Lace must, of course, be damp when pinned, thicknesses of white flannel. Over this spread care- and then the pins will not tear the threads of the fully a damp cloth and press with a hot iron until picots. Only a portion of the length should be this cloth is thoroughly dry. This is also the way removed from the damp cloth within which it is to press newly made lace, and should be done as rolled. Should the lace, being pinned, become dry, soon as the lace is removed from the pattern. A dampen it with a wet cloth or sponge. First pin little white sugar added to the water in which the footing or engrelure down to the padded sup- this over-cloth is dampened will stiffen the lace, port, using plenty of pins placed close together. and is in some cases much better than starch. Spread the lace across its width smoothly over the

Another excellent method is to dampen a piece of support, and pin each picot separately by thrusting new organdy or other white goods containing starch the pin through it and into the flannel support as or dressing. Place this over the lace and iron till if it were a cushion. The pins must be the exact dry. This gives a crisp new appearance to the lace size of the picots, as their size must keep the without making it at all suggestive of starch. An- picots in their original shape. Leave the lace until other method of washing lace is to soak it about it is thoroughly dry and then remove the pins. If fifteen minutes in a bowl of suds made of white the lace has a raised design, stamp it on the wrong soap and water. Pour this off and replace with a side with a lace awl.

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