“It’s All About The Experience – Yours and Ours ” Volume 11 Issue 4 Telephone : 08 8356 1874 September 2009

and become the "Burke and Wills ugust 15th saw the final and refuge for wildlife and a popular Way ". A departure in our bus tourist destination . vehicle. On to Birdsville, and after a look at With thoughts of The bus will still be used for our many the Race Track we went to find John (Captain Starlight), we travelled the trips until 30th June next year, after at the Birdsville Working Museum. Old Strzelecki Track (sandy in parts which time we will offer a range of What a difference 3 weeks can but preferable to the Moomba Road) itineraries in a 4WD vehicle. to and the “Roller make! Birdsville has always had a special The road out to Big Red had been Coaster” to Cameron Corner. The significance, as it was the destination of recently graded—a very pleasant Middle Road through Sturt National our very first trip—14 years ago! change to the deep corrugations we Park to Olive Downs was the better - it is Since that time we have taken over 30 experienced on the July trip. choice to reach Tibooburra more scenic and has a good deal trips to the “little town burning in the sun more wildlife. between two deserts”, and each has been Beer can collectors After a detour to Depot Glen and different in its own way. will be out of luck this year as an James Poole’s grave near Milparinka, Our final trip was with a great group of oversight at we continued along the Silver City people, and perfect weather. As with the Castlemaine Highway to Broken Hill. July trip, “In flight service” - (freshly Brewery has prepared lunch packs) enabled a number resulted in no recently came across a copy of of passengers to take the opportunity of a XXXX Birdsville the " Story of Pioneer John plane flight over Lake Eyre during our I Races 2009 beer Conrick as told by himself". stop in Marree. cans being Whilst our passengers were in the air, produced. It is a series of articles published in Jenny was busy on the ground preparing the Adelaide News 1923-4. Once again we took the Cordillo lunch to pre-ordered choices. Downs road to travel from Birdsville John describes This enabled us to leave for Mungerannie to Innamincka. his pioneering without too much delay after the hour The Qld and SA roads were about trip from Nappa and a half plane flight. Merrie Station the same condition (rough), and the Reaching the Derwent River near SA option is about 100km shorter. closely Mungerannie, we were surprised to find Of the two roads, the SA side has following the very little more historical interest as it passes route of cattle water, and Cadelga Ruins and thief "Captain learned woolshed. Starlight" (Harry later Again, a surprise as the road from Redford) in the much of it Arrabury turnoff to Innamincka had famous novel is being been recently graded! "Robbery Under Arms" by Rolfe Boldrewood, who took this country used for The Adventure Way was planned to as the scene of the cattle stealing Station take tourists from Brisbane to episode. requirements. The Mungerannie wetland Adelaide. A section of this from the was created by artesian flow from a bore border and just south of Photo: John Conrick with some of his employ- sunk on the Mungerannie Station in the the Burke and Wills Bridge to the ees after the group had successfully driven the first mob of fat cattle to Adelaide in 1878. early 1900's. The wetland extends along Dig Tree turnoff is now bitumen, and Derwent Creek with the main body makes for a pleasant change from the The man who stole these cattle was approximately 600 metres in length. corrugations on the South Australian named Collins, whom I knew well in side of the border. Roadworks The wetland is of high environmental later Years", Conrick says. and social value as an established habitat continue on this road, and at some Continued over point it will be sealed to Innamincka

DESERT SKY TOURS……….. 1998 Finalist – Small Business Award Finalist …….. 2002 Winner – Northern SA Business Awards

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Story of John Conrick as told by himself Destruction in the (continued from page 1 ) amels were "It was an assumed name of course. He travelled down the C introduced Cooper with 1,000 head and sold them at Blanchewater into Aus- Station . Mr Mules buying them on behalf of tralia in the 1840’s Mr John Baker. Before the cattle thief came to to help explorers Blanchewater, he passed Mr Waurkes camp on the Strzelecki travel through the Creek and sold him an imported bull. There was nothing in Australian desert but either transaction to arouse suspicion, as Collins was the now there are over one million of the damn things roaming supposed owner. around the outback, and apparently the population doubles every nine years. Some time after Collins, whom we will call Starlight, has stolen these cattle off , an overseer, The average camel can grow to 7 feet (2.1 metres) tall and Lumley Hill, was appointed to follow them up. He followed can weigh up to 2,000 pounds (900 kilograms), and the tracks right on until he came to Waurke's camp, where he although the impact of camels is probably less per beast recognised the imported bull and claimed him . He went on to than cattle, cattle numbers are managed whereas feral Blanchewater and recognised the LC brand (Landsborough camels aren’t and they are causing untold damage to the Company) on the cattle sold by Starlight. The rightful owner outback landscape. took action against Collins, who was one of the finest According to Nicholas Rothwell of The Australian bushmen in Australia and a Hawkesbury NSW native, for the newspaper, Camels maraud Aboriginal communities; they theft of the bull, which appears to be the only animal which trample fence lines, attack standpipes and destroy water could be sworn to, as the owners of Bowen Downs had sold tanks. several lots of cattle with their brand to purchasers in South They roam unchecked across the plateaus of central and Australia and could not prove that the Blanchewater cattle northern Australia; they fan out from creeks and riverbeds, were not amongst those sold. when they are in large numbers they create a wasteland The bull was travelled to Adelaide, shipped to Brisbane and inside the wilderness, and they are eradicating native travelled to Roma, a journey of 2,500 miles. Starlight was plants which seriously affects our environment and native tried at Roma and the jury brought in a verdict of "not wildlife. guilty". Judge Blakeney, dashing his pen on the table and Camels compete with cattle for food in the outback, but in exclaiming "Thank God, gentlemen, that is your verdict, not the process, they are trampling the vegetation into mine". Starlight was acquitted. The case ruined Waurke, but nothingness, they are ripping up water pipes and rotting the buyer of the cattle , who had paid 5,000 pounds in good carcasses of drowned camels have caused problems to vital faith, was not affected, as it was impossible to prove that waterholes. these were the stolen cattle." Sadly, efforts to develop a large-scale, well-managed Conrick left old Boxing Day 1874, and camel industry, for live export or human or pet-meat arrived at January 6th 1875 - just in consumption have been no more than spasmodic, as has time for Christmas dinner, their teams with Christmas state-run camel controlled initiatives. luxuries having just come in from Port Augusta. Environment Minister Peter Garret said the introduced "George Marzetti, the storekeeper, met us with liquid species is currently causing an estimated $14 million refreshments, but nearly dropped them when I told him we dollars in damage per annum, not to mention the has just come through from Queensland. Mr Pat Long was devastating damage to the environment and wildlife. manager and he had with him Jerry Darmody and several Last month’s announcement to set aside $19 million dol- other stockmen. They were all amazed to hear of our trip." lars for a well managed program to help slash the camel population will be fantastic news to some, but no-doubt not Things are now a lot quieter at Blanchewater Station. such good news for others. But Glen Edwards, who is working on the draft for the Australian Government’s camel reduction program, said the population needs to be slashed by two thirds to reduce catastrophic damage. Statue in main street We all have the responsibility of protecting the environ- Roma, Queensland ment, native fauna and flora around us and it’s an obvious of the white bull responsibility of any government to do the same .

Desert Sky News Page 3 Birdsville Working Museum New Book Release

ere’s another beauty” Birdsville: My Year in the Back Of Beyond John bellows. Evan McHugh H ISBN/ Catalogue Number: 9780670072712 “Just add water to the canister containing calcium carbide, strike a or a town with match to the port at the top and an F seventy residents incandescent light is formed from the (on a good day), acetylene flame. Often used as a light in Birdsville is remarkably well the early 1900’s but now we use a torch known – the Birdsville Track, with batteries at three times the cost. the rodeo, the pub, the I guess that’s progress”. infamous races. With its ruggedness, John holds his audience captive throughout the tour of his inaccessibility and larrikin unique Birdsville working museum. Picking through the nu- charm, this small town on the merous items used in the early days by those who lived in the edge of the Simpson Desert bush, he demonstrated to all how to make butter, heal wounds, has become a symbol of the trap flies, make candles and relieve headaches. great Australian outback. All items were innovative, practical and cheap and all able to be made from components that appeared to be readily available What is it about Birdsville that has made it stand so from the outback. large in our legends? And what's it like to live there amongst the floods and the heat and the dust storms? The Birdsville Working Museum is run by John and Judy To find out, Evan McHugh packed up his Sydney Menzies, and John’s regular tours through his incredible home, bought a four-wheel drive and headed off with collection of stuff is an experience of a lifetime. He has been his wife for a year in the back of beyond. Here, he collecting items for over 28 years, and opened the Museum in tells us of the large adventures – midnight desert res- 1993, with an official opening 1994. It is a place you do not cues, aerial mustering on vast cattle stations, relentless want to miss when visiting Birdsville. heat and massive floods – but also the small details of life in one of Australia's most isolated towns – like Unfortunately Judy’s health requires specialised treatment, and driving 700 kilometres to go shopping. As the months they have decided to sell the business after the 2009 Birdsville fly by, Evan learns about an ancient culture, sees races. dunes carpeted in millions of tiny wildflowers, and meets the members of an outback community facing Christmas on Kangaroo Island! extraordinary challenges with quiet determination and buckets of good humour

The book makes entertaining and light hearted We have two seats available on our 5 day Christmas 2009 reading. It was written in 2008 so many names of trip to Kangaroo Island. The package includes: local people are familiar. The book is available at most book shops, however I obtained a copy from • Sea Link Ferry West Torrens Library.

• 4 nights accommodation in the Wisteria Lodge Motel Kingscote, with rooms overlooking Nepean Bay

• All meals - including a sumptuous Christmas Lunch

• Guest appearance by Gentleman in red suit!

• Sightseeing—Remarkable Rocks, Admiral’s Arch, Seal Bay, Vivonne Bay, Snelling Beach, Stokes Bay, Western River Cove, Eucalyptus and Honey Farms. Sign (left) at The all inclusive fare is $890 per person Marree cafe

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Trip to When the road becomes a dust bowl, June 2009 How does Howard find the track? Lots of laughter and hysterics On this trip to the Outback. We're going North with Humby's Into the Great Outback, Innamincka and the Cooper, In the steps of the brave explorers, It's running fast and free. On the Old Strezlecki `I`rack An egret gets its dinner And later, so do we- The suburbs lie behind us, Green paddocks far and wide, We cross the gibber plains We're driving through the wheat belt Where the Mesa starkly stand With farms on either side. To the Dig Tree, a reminder Of the perils of this land. And Jenny tells the history Of the towns we're passing by, This unforgiving landscape Of the settlers and their hardships Tells the stories of the past, When the crops began to die. The markers on the trees Where explorers breathed their last. It's a picnic lunch at Gladstone, The fog left at Gulnare, Cameron Corner beckons We stay a while at Hawker, On a roller-coaster flier, View the "Panorama" there. But nearing Tibooburra We get a punctured tyre! We spend a night at Copley, Hot showers and a bed, Then it's off to Milparinka A few drinks with the locals, Where we visit Depot Glen And we're well and truly fed. And we all try to imagine How explorers felt back then. The good road ends at Lyndhurst, And now it's four-wheel drive, To Broken Hill then Adelaide, Innamincka lies ahead, And so our journey ends, The bumps we must survive. But first we meet the Owl Man And his many feathered friends. In a creek bed with a name too long We stop for morning tea, The camp-fires and the company, We pass Blanchewater Station, The characters we met, Just the ruins left to see. And Jenny's lively music, We never will forget. Mt Hopeless, then the Cobbler; With sand dunes all the way, We've seen pelicans and kestrels, At Montecollina Bore we lunch Wedge-tails in full flight, On a lovely Winter's day. And the desert rivers flowing, And a million stars at night. And birds come to the water Where they can take a rest. And we felt a sense of wonder We find the little mud homes At the grandeur of this land, Of the fairy martin's nest. It's vastness and its beauty, That we try to understand. Our bones are all complaining, It's the "old" road that we take, Nancy Weisbrodt July 2009 We pass by Merty Merty Where the pot-holes make us shake.

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Red Mulga An Ode to an Unexpected Guest! Acacia Cyperophylla

The following is part of an article by Bill Dowling in Friends of the Botanic A punctured tyre on our Cooper Creek trip was quickly Gardens of Adelaide Gazette : changed, however complications with the tyre hanger meant the flat tyre had to be placed inside the bus. The normal mulga’s everywhere - Joan was inspired to record the event as follows: It’s really rather vulgar; Unlike its mate, the much more rare And beautiful red Mulga. Tyrone Tyre is a most dependant mate, With deep red bark against the rocks He will humbly support the Humbys In creeks, it looks the trick. forever,

It peels away in curly locks BUT…… Like those atop our Nic. After a while he decides with some guile, Red mulga loves the arid zone That inside the bus is much better! As does the Eremophila, It’s other name’s the less well known Acacia cyperophyalla

And when its seed begins to fall, It must be time to plant. Gates! So who’s this mulga gonna call? - Its friendly local ant. St Peter put his yo -yo down and rubbed his saintly eyes As through a cloud, a figure bowed, pursued by swarms of flies Came tramping up to heavens gate, and stood there in amaze he red mulga is one of the few Australian tress Then dropped his swag and tucker bag and said “well spare me days” with red brown “minniritchi” bark, which peels T I've humped this here Matilda, from the age of seventeen off the stem in curling flakes. There ain’t a track, in all outback, that us two haven't seen But when I rolled me final swag, I thought I'd cleaned the slate The flakes remain on the stems Now stone the crows, before me nose, I see another gate and trunk, giving these trees a In fifty years of hoofing it, and covering all the while, distinctive appearance. Twelve miles a day at least I'd say, at two gates to the mile I ain’t much good at figures, but the way I calculates, Red mulga is found in scattered In my career, I've opened near on fifty thousand gates isolated pockets across central Australia. These gates they simply haunt me, there were gates of every sort Rusted gates and busted gates, high, low, long and short, Gates that seemed to challenge you and gates that seemed to cringe, It generally grows along water- Lazy gates, crazy gates that hang on half a hinge courses, where it can reach the considerable height, for an out- Gates timbered up with fencing wire and gates all pretty scrolls, back tree, of around 12 metres. With patent catch and home made-latch and gates made out of poles Wide gates and narrow gates, big carriers and small,

A remarkable symbiotic relationship has developed be- Sagging gates, dragging gates, I've wrestled with them all

tween red mulga trees and ants. An “elaiosome”is attached I've opened them and shut Cem, till the sight of all I hate to each red mulga seed. This structure is rich in oils which I'd rather miss your heavenly bliss, than open that there gate are attractive to ants. The ants actually plant the seeds by What's that? You'll open Cer for me. Now that's what I call nice, dragging them into their underground nests. The elaiosome And close her too when I get through. Well this Is is eaten, but the seeds remain unharmed in an environment favourable to germination. “Paradise”

This poem by Godfrey Bedford was found under a straw palliasse in Cordillo Downs Shearing Shed in 1938. It is on display in the Birdsville Working Museum

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The Elizabeth Symon and Wildlife Service SA. Their job was to help with the landscaping and Itinerary for Nursing Home final preparation of the now restored Australian Inland Mission Hospital at 2010 he Elizabeth Symon Nursing Innamincka. They presented us with a Home at Innamincka was first T record of the official opening cere- opened on 11th May 1928. mony held on Friday 22nd July 1994 Back O’Bourke It was designed by Adelaide architect (9 days) - $1875 pp Thomas Macadam, and was similar to The following is an account of the Saturday April 24 opening reported in the Australian the AIM Nursing Home in Alice Kangaroo Island Geographic Magazine : (4 days) - $975 pp Springs. Money for the building was donated by Sir Josiah Symon Thursday March 18 “The restoration and the crowd so im- (of Beltana), and it was named after pressed the Rev Fred McKay, AIM Mungo/Hattah Kulkyne National Parks his mother. founder the Rev John Flynn’s (5 days) - $995 pp The Home closed in 1951, as by then successor as superintendent , who Saturday April 10 the Royal Flying Doctor was provid- officially dedicated the new structure, Cooper Creek & Innamincka ing many of the services which had that he described the event as a (7 days) - $1675 pp been available at the Home. miracle. Thursday June 24 Also, there were less people travelling, “What a congregation," he exclaimed, William Creek & The Painted Desert the Stations were suffering because of drawing cheers from the crowd. “I’ve (9 days) - $1895 pp drought, and the town was dying. never seen one like it in Innamincka - Saturday May 15 The building was dismantled and the I feel like taking up a collection.” Wilson’s Promontory & Great Ocean Rd materials sold to Arrabury Pastoral When we did pass the buckets around (9 days) - $1875 pp Company. A Manager’s house was later that day , they quickly filled with Monday March 1 built using them on Mt Leonard Sta- $17,234. Boosted by a $6,900 donation tion. Only the concrete walls of the from McCafferty’s, the sum took us Innamincka Nursing Home remained. past our fundraising target— a Personalised 4WD Tours remarkable feat , proving what can be The ruined achieved with dedication and hard Birdsville/Innamincka building at work. (9 days) $2925 pp Innamincka Encircled by a broad, screened veranda Saturday July 31 stayed that and fitted with large fireplaces and Coongie Lakes & The Cooper Creek way for over evocative pressed –metal ceilings, the (7 days) - $2045 pp 40 years. building is now a comfortable visitors’ Sunday 18th July In the early 1990’s , Department of centre, office and seasonal headquar- Environment and Natural Resources & “Skytrek” ters for a ranger from the South Aus- (4 days) - $1150 pp came up with the idea of tralian Department of Environment Saturday August 21 re-constructing the building and using and Natural Resources. it as an office an visitor information A detailed interpretative display that Flinders Ranges & (5 days) - $1650 pp centre. traces the Region’s history has been Monday August 30 On our Cooper Creek trip in June this mounted downstairs and the depart- ment hopes the centre will help attract Yorke Peninsula & Southern Flinders year, we had on board Joan and John, (5 days) - $995 pp who were volunteers with the Austra- more visitors to the 13,820 sq.km Saturday October 16 lian Geographic and National Parks Innamincka Regional Reserve.”

Other Personalised tours in a 4WD vehicle can be arranged on other dates by request!

The crowd at the opening of the restored Elizabeth How to contact us: Symon Nursing Home Innamincka. PO Box 683 GLENELG SA 5045 Friday 22nd July 1994

08 8356 1874

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www.desertskytours.com