Booklet Version PDF page 1 PDF page 2 Mallorca Deep Water Soloing MiniGUIDE Page Page Page 1 2 3 Back Front by Daimon Beail Cover Cover Version 2.0 - July 2008 PDF page 3 PDF page 4 Page Page Page Page Thank you for downloading this Rockfax MiniGUIDE. We hope that you find 6 7 Page 4 5 Page Print on Page Page the information useful, inspiring and accurate. Please send any comments 16 1 opposite 2 15 sides of the you have to [email protected]. Sometimes same sheet Sometimes blank of paper blank

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ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. BByy DDaimonaimon BBeaileail Published by ROCKFAX Ltd © ROCKFAX Ltd 2008 Palma Porto Pi MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Mallorca Deep Water Soloing MiniGUIDE by Daimon Beail PEA1 min Edited by Alex Armitage and Alan James Version 2.0 - July 2008

ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. Published by ROCKFAX Ltd © ROCKFAX Ltd 2008 7 All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher. 6

4 5 Foot Note 3 The inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGUIDE does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this MiniGUIDE are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. Climbers who attempt a climb of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors and publisher of this MiniGUIDE do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guide- 2 book as an assurance for their own safety. 1 Acknowledgment The challenges in writing this book were enormous and time consuming. I began this journey alone and with no prior knowledge of DWS in Mallorca. All I had was Mike Robertson's article on Diablo and an Porto Pi 5 c obsessive hunger to know more. Along the way things changed regarding my solo mission and in doing Cuquets ...... 6b S0 this guide I have met some fantastic people who have offered information and encouragement. I have Approach - This area is also used for swimming and cliff 12m. Quite possibly the first recorded deep water solo on the jumping by many people so it is quite easy to access all the island, which would make it the first deep water solo route in also been lucky enough to have had the support of my family and friends. Thanks for keeping me going. lines from either the left or right side of the crag via an easy the world! Start as for Jaume, which avoids the hard lip climb- A big thank you to: down-climb. ing below, to move into the upper part of Meca. Alan James; Mike Robertson (for the 2002 Diablo article which started my journey and your help and Exiting - Either on the left or right of the crag, but as always, FA. Miquel Riera 1978 if the sea becomes rough a rope is recommended. support throughout making this guide); Miquel Riera (the Godfather of Mallorcan rock climbing; this 6 c edition would not have been possible without your help. Josh Lowell (thank you for the photo and Jaume...... 6a S0 contacts); James Cole (or is it Captain Cole, thanks for all those trips); Peter Brown (for helping us 1 Pepelink ...... c 6b S1 11m. On the right of the cove. Beware of brittle rock. 10m. The left arch on some good holds until you reach the top. set sail); Andrew Chapman (for your big lenses, 'focus'); Peter Church (photo technical assistance); Bernard Exley (the bionic man); Alistair MacDonald (what's with the spud gun); Dieter Werther (thanks Watch the ledge at the start. 7 Sa Primera ...... c 6a S0 11m. A slight alternative to Jaume, which takes a more direct for joining us!!); Adam Lincoln (the president); Martin Putz (Zioggg); Heidi Spets (for all your love and 2 Pilar ...... c 6b S0 line out of the cove. support); Ged Desforges (thank you for the photos and info on Porto Cristo Novo and Cala Sa Nau); 11m. Either swim, use a dinghy, or attempt to climb around to Iban Garayar (see you out there soon!); Neil Gresham (with help on Novo); Ben Heason (thanks for the start of this one. Climb the pillar, move right onto the face your help and pictures); Matt Heason (its a small, small world); Mike Lloyd (thanks for the info); Stuart and then attack the roof at the top. Metcalf (technical genius); Thomas Starke (for showing me truth justice and TS way); Ethan Pringle, (for introducing me to the big up crew, good luck on Es Pontas); Chris Sharma (a true local and thanks 3 Mucho Mi ...... c 8b+ S0 12m. Porto Pi's big number cruncher. Starting on the right side for your help); Anna Starke (at Max Mag); Adrian G. Riber (at Mindtomotion.se); Juergen Waskowiak of the cove, traverse the lip and launch out onto the face to (for the west coast info); Ouita Broadfoot (for the illustrator work done on Cova de Ses Puntes); Ramon cross the line of Pilar and into a small corner. Power over the Way Down Marin (information sorcery) and Alex Armitage (for the super final text edit!). roof to finish. 3 4 c Big respect to all those on board at dwsworld.com and to everyone who has e-mailed me with Meca...... 7b S0 inquires, ideas, tips, info and abuse. 12m. Make an early exit from Mucho Mi and finish on Pilar. I'd also like to take this opportunity to pay my respects to Damian Cook who was killed whilst soloing in challenging conditions in Mallorca. Damian was a true pioneer in the evolution of deep water soloing. He has contributed an array of ideas, first ascents and very much helped pave the way for deep water soloing. May he rest in peace. 47 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx REF yyyyyyyy MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Palma Porto Pi is a small venue near the shipyards in Palma and is a convenient location for some activity on the last day whilst waiting for your flight back. There are only a few routes but this is enough to keep you entertained, with grades stretching from 6a to 8b+. Porto Pi plays a historical role in the development of Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca. It was here, back in 1978, that Miquel Riera first began exploring the possibility of bouldering above the water. The crag is not too high, 12m or so, and is popular with city Mallorca workers wanting some after-work soloing action. Approach Deep Water Soloing It is difficult to navigate through the city of Palma and the maps provided here are only a rough guide. Travelling west on the PM-1 (Avenida de Gabriel Roca) you will eventually come to an area called Porto Pi. Look out for a big shipyard on your left with two large boathouses, and on the right, a shopping mall with a 'Porto Pi' sign on it. In front is a large junction. Turn right and follow the road around to your left (this is a large roundabout with the PM-1 running right through it) and take the third exit on your right. Follow this road (named Carretera al Dic de I'Oest) for around 400m until you see a metal tank on the left and a parking area on the right. Park here and it's a 30-second walk to the crag below.

Conditions The rock is unfortunately quite brittle and loose near the top, so take care in places. Also, watch out for the occasional accumulation of rubbish in the sea, which normally happens around mid-to-late afternoon.

Introduction...... 2 Map ...... 5 PM-27 Porto Cristo (Tower of Falcons) . 6 Son Vida Vileta Son PM-30 Porto Cristo Novo...... 8 Muntaner Golf PALMA PM-20 Porto Colom ...... 11 PM-20 Son Ferriol Cala Sa Nau ...... 16 PM-1 Castell C-715 de Cala Mitjana ...... 19 Genova Bellver PM-19 Es Molinar Cala Serena ...... 21 PM-1 Porto Pi Santanyi ...... 34 Sant Airport Cala Llombards ...... 37 Agusti Porto Pi Port de Soller ...... 40 Map not to scale Sa Calobra ...... 43

Palma ...... 46 C-719 PM-1 PM-1

Ship Yard This page: Adam Lincoln on The Camp Jogger 6c+ Dominion Wall (Porto Colom) Cover: Heidi Spets heading towards the crux of Superwoman 7a+. Porto Pi Cuquets 6b. Photo by Heidi Spets Back Cover: Axel Big catching some big air. Map not to scale Photos: Daimon Beail Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 46 Sa Calobra Torrent de Pareis - The Arena MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Introduction Mallorca sits off the eastern coast of Spain and is home to some of the World's best Daimon Beail Pulling His Way Out of the Water 7b PTA8 min deep water soloing. These famous cliffs are covered with big golden pockets and some J of the toughest solos in the World, including Chris Sharma's route up the underside of the Es Pontas arch. But there is also plenty of more-moderate soloing available across J a wealth of fine crags all in a fantastic holiday atmosphere.

This edition of the

7 Mallorcan deep water soloing MiniGUIDE (previ- 6 ously known as Mallorcan Psicobloc) contains crags that didn't get covered in the Rockfax publica- tion Deep Water. For the full picture on deep water soloing on Mallorca you will need to a copy of Deep Water. This award-winning book (Banff 2007 - Best Guidebook) contains the crags of Porto Cristo, Cala Barques and Cala Marçal, as well as many other superb Gear venues from all around the World. It is avail- What to take? In September and October: able from the Rockfax web site - not a lot. The water is so warm that a wet The Arena www.rockfax.com Approach - The Arena is the first area you reach just before suit is not needed. If you are prepared entering the tunnels. The crag is overlooked by a viewing to wear a shorty then this may help with If you find anything that you think is missing area, which means your climbing will attract a lot of atten- buoyancy in the water. Two pairs of boots tion. You can set up camp on a rocky platform just over the or incorrect in this MiniGuide, or wish to and a chalk bag are all you really need, left side of the railing, and descend to the climbs from here. inform us about new routes and crags, Exit - In calm seas exiting is extremely easy as there is an along with plenty of chalk and those underwater ledge at the bottom of the natural descent line email [email protected]. into the sea. In slightly rougher conditions a rope would be sandwich bags to line the inside of your useful. Also climb with care at the bottom, as it is normally chalk bag for when it gets wet. quite slippery and wet. When to Go A dinghy is essential for some routes, The most popular time for climbers to visit as they require a boat start. These can 6 2pc tends to be late September, early October be picked up from tourist hot spots very The Fulcher ...... 6b+ S0 when the sea is still warm and the average 18m. A fantastic line that finishes with a long jump back down. cheaply. One or two places could do with Traverse the handrail along and down past the arete of Wax air temperature is in the low 20s. Late a rope ladder to get out of the water, so if until you reach a crouching position under a crack-line. Follow October is often the wettest time of the this all the way until you reach a recess and a finish to the you have one, take it along. A 30m rope is route. Jump off from here. year but its still possible to go and dodge needed and a few slings for setting up water FA. Daimon Beail 17.06.05 the showers. November is also a possibility exits. Ropes are also useful for accessing 7 but it is likely to be cold and make for a the bottom of lines safely. A harness is Wax ...... 3ftc 7a+ S0 less pleasant holiday. April to June is also 12m. A stunning find. Still awaiting a direct finish past the large only needed if you intend to abseil in to the pockets. Traverse the handrail until you reach the arete. Climb possible for the more dedicated among starts. the right-hand side of it making some sequence moves to a jug. us but a wet suit might be needed. Local Continue to wind your way up the face to the pockets out left. climbers see July and August as a prime Jump from here or try the direct finish into the recess. Daimon Beail making the first FA. J.Cole 17.06.05 ascent of The Fulcher 6b+ time to go soloing, but for many this will be far too hot. 45 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 2 Introduction MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Sa Calobra Torrent de Pareis - The Mouth Safety Flights Mallorca as a deep water soloing venue There are many flights to Palma, Mallorca BOAT does have its downside. The sea can be from all sorts of destinations across Europe. OIUA15 min very rough and you are advised to keep www.flybmi.com, www.britishairways.com, well clear in these conditions. It's amazing www.easyjet.com, www.thomsonfly.com, how hard it can be to exit the water in even www.airtours.co.uk, www.airberlin.com a mild swell. There is only a very small tidal range but please be aware of possible currents while out swimming under crags. It goes without saying that you need to be physically fit for deep water soloing and being a strong swimmer is an essential part of the sport. Always climb in teams of two or more - never, ever solo alone! It is also worth mentioning the jellyfish - the large ones (Mild Rhizostoma pulmo) are easy to spot and normally stay away from 1 the crags or drift away quickly on the tide. The smaller gray jellyfish (Pelagia noctiluca) travel around in shoals, drifting on the Exit Point currents. I personally have seen hundreds 2 at a crag and have been stung a few times but found it not to be too bad. Watch the The Mouth 5 direction of their travel if they are out and Accommodation Approach - Sa Pose is reached by either swimming from the There are lots of fantastic villas, apartments beach and pulling up onto the steps using a rope, or walking about and head to another crag if possible. around to the no entry sign on the tunnel path and crossing 5 and hotels on offer but no camping. Wild The Mallorcan ...... 3sc 7a S0 You don't see jellyfish all the time and its a weak railing. Water Logged is a swim from the beach as 12m. From the water with a ring or a swim, climb the only tufa quite possible for you to spend a week or camping is allowed but restrictions are in are The Little Professor and Mad Professor. Tufa Land is at line that is accessible from the sea and follow this via a lovely place making it quite difficult to do safely. the end of The Little Professor traverse and is a lovely wall jug to where the tufa fattens. Navigate around the right side of two in Mallorca and not see any. covered in (obviously) Tufas. Accessing The Mallorcan needs Out of season the villas are a very reason- this and head up onto the slab to the right-hand exit. to be done from a boat. FA. Ged Desforges Sep.07 able price and highly recommended. Getting around Ged Desforges's team of climbers have also accomplished high See www.dwsworld.com and 1 Sa Pose...... 2fc 6b+ S0 A hire car is the best choice for maximum points on the adjacent tufas to the left. www.rockfax.com for more details. 9m. A powerful traverse. Follow the faint crack, which leaves flexibility. Lots of accommodation compa- the massive flake, on positive holds to big side-pulls and power nies deal directly with their own car compa- upwards to a ledge. Work your way down the ledge to the start and nies making things easier when booking. Shops do it again for the spectators who didn’t spot you the first time. FA. Daimon Beail 30.09.03 If you choose to book separately there are There are supermarkets in most of the TUFA LAND towns and a large hypermarket in Palma many to be found on the web. It is best to 2 Water Logged...... pc 6a S0 5 book before you go. that will cater for all your needs. Opening 9m. Pull out of the water and follow the big flake up and right. At times in Mallorca are normally between the top of the flake, climb up to the sloping ledge, and jump off! FA. Julian Chapman 30.09.03 Torrent-De-Pareis 10:00 to 13:30 hrs. and 16:00 to around Access 3 1c Most of Mallorca is private land but so far 20:00 hrs. Shops will normally be closed on The Little Professor . . . . 5+ S0 national holidays and Sundays. 60m+. Nothing little about it. Normally done from right to left. 3 access to the DWS venues has not been Pull yourself out of the water, or off your boat, and traverse at SWIM etc an issue. As always, take great care when any height, making it whatever grade you like - 5+ is average. New routes There are also some boulder problems along the way. It is pos- approaching any of the cliffs, don’t disturb sible to get to Tufa Land if you don’t have a boat. 4 the vegetation, fences and walls, and leave New route and new area information can be FA. Daimon Beail S.Smith J.Chapman 30.09.03 7 politely if asked to do so. emailed to [email protected] 61 4 The Mad Professor . . . . . 2c 6c+ S0 TUNNEL 15m. From the start of Little Professor, head right on fantastic TUNNEL rock to a tricky handrail and a slap for a large bucket. Continue as far as you can and bale out just before the shallow water. Map not to scale FA. Daimon Beail 17.06.05 3 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 44 Sa Calobra MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Climbing Information Sa Calobra is a beautiful spot that can get very busy, which means your climbing activity Rockfax Symbols can become the centre of attention every now and then. The climbing is found at the 1 KEY a good route Mountain peak mouth of the 'Torrent-De-Pareis' which in the winter months, after heavy rain, can be a LH Lighthouse fast-flowing river. Normally though the river is dry and the mouth of the Gorge is just a dry 2 a very good route Minor road pebble beach that slopes sharply into the sea. 3 a brilliant route Highway Town or village The climbing is currently limited but there may be many more possibilities out there. t Main Road Built up area A boat is recommended, as some of the routes are difficult to pull onto from the sea. If technical climbing involving complex Dirt track PMV401-2 Road number you decide to visit 'Tufa Land' take a backup flotation device, because if your boat bursts or tricky moves River or stream you’re going to have a long swim back. The climbs never exceed 12m. p powerful moves requiring big arms River in built up area Mountainous area s sustained climbing, either long and Way to destination Approach pumpy or with lots of hard moves Path Buildings Sa Calobra is on the north side of the island. Make your way to 'Soller' and take the f fingery climbing - sharp holds! Boulders Anchorage C710 towards 'Pollenca'. This road winds its way up into the mountains, passing through Vegetation r a long reach is helpful / essential P Project many tunnels and via the odd military outpost. After this longer-than-expected drive you g House or Hotel eventually get to a major turn on the left which rollercoasters its way down to 'Cala Tuent' rounded holds may be found Parking J Jump off point and 'Sa Calobra'. This point can also be approached from the other direction, direct from o a dyno is required 'Pollenca' or from 'Inca'. Following signs to Sa Calobra leads to a pay-and-display car park h heart fluttery climbing on your right near the bottom of the valley. From here, walk down to the sea front and turn Other guides l loose rock right. Follow the path along the front until you eventually come to a series of small well-lit The most essential other tunnels. Try to squeeze your way through them, to emerge at the other side. book you will need is the Grades Rockfax book Deep Water Conditions All grades are presented in a dual format. - this covers the three big The biggest problem on this side of the island is rain. Because 'Sa Calobra' is on the edge The main sport grade gives the overall diffi- crags of Porto Cristo, Cala of the mountain range it tends to get hit with downpours from time to time. This is obvi- culty of the route and the S-grade gives you Barques and Cala Marçal. ously less of a problem in June but in mid-October you will find an umbrella quite useful. an idea of how safe it is. The cove faces north west and, because of the steepness of the surrounding cliffs and Colour Code Psicobloc Mallorca is mountains, the sun normally hits the area from about midday to early afternoon. Miquel Riera's best of guide 1 4+ and under Good for beginners to 'Psicobloc' on the island. Harder routes for those with It contains a variety of 2 5 to 6a+ Map not to scale some experience coastal sport climbs and a Torrent-De-Pareis For the experienced and small section on bouldering 3 6b to 7a Crag dedicated climber on the south east coast. Sa The hard stuff, for expert The book is in both Spanish POLLENCA Calobra 4 7a+ and up Sa dws climbers only Calobra and English - C710 www.edicionesdesnivel.com PM220

1102m S0 - Safe and relatively non-committing. Port de Usually with a low crux move and any falls Soller 1348m Easy Block by Jurgen C710 PM213 lead to a clean projection into the water. Waskowiak, Oliver Fischer Sa Pobla S1 - A caution rating. Longer and the route SERRA DE and Bernd Gorten is a small C710 TRAMUNTANA SOLLER 1090m Selva may also have a high crux. C713 guide to the low-grade deep PM210 S2 - Similar to S1 but may also have water soloing that can be TUNNEL Alaro PM211 INCA protruding ledges above or below the water. C711 C713 PM344 found on the south west PM27 The water may be shallow in places and PM324 coast of the island. This bailing out will require a bit of precision to area is ideal for beginners get into the water safely. and small groups as most S3 - The connoisseur’s DWS. Heady to on- of the venues are easy to sight. Often shallow, high cruxes, exposed access and not very high. and often genuinely dangerous. Take care! www.psicobloc.com

43 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 4 The Climbing Areas MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Port de Soller Cova de Ses Puntes Sa Calobra MALLORCA Cova de Ses Puntes Port PTA10 min Pollença d'Pollença

Port d'Alcúdia Port de Soller Alcúdia Conditions - Cova de Ses 710 Puntes faces west, which La Puebla gives it the afternoon and Soller Way Down Way Down 712 Cala evening sun. It does not Inca Muro Ratjada Artà dry out quickly. Valldemossa Alaro Santa Margalida Bunyola 710 Santa María PM27 715 Petra 713 Porto Cristo Vilafranca PM111 Manacor 715 Airport Andratx Porto Cristo PM1 Porto Cristo Novo 717 Palma Felantix Santa Cala Barques Poncça Campos del Porto Colom Porto Pi Puerto Porto Colom

Santanyi Cala Marcal Orange crags are Cala Sa Nau covered in Deep Water Cala Mitjana 2 3 4 5 6 7 Cala Serena 1 Cala Santanyi Cala Llombards & Es Pontas Small Ledge New Areas Cova de Ses Puntes Follow the road along the sea front to a 'no Although there has been plenty of devel- Approach - 1 Supermanolo ...... c 6b S0 entry' sign. Turn sharp right up the hill and continue through opment, there are more areas still to be The west coast also has a lot of potential. 14m. Starting from the left side of the cave mouth and climb hairpin bends past the Nautilus Bar (parking for the sport Three new areas have already been devel- the lip of the cave until you reach easier ground above. discovered and many of the crags in this crag). Where the road curves right, turn left onto a small guide still have room for further develop- oped by some local climbers on the south road leading off onto a dirt track. This winds for about 1km 2 Republica Sinestra ...... c 7c S0 ment. west coast and offer some easier lines, through olive trees and shrubs to a small open area - park here. Walk along a gully/path towards the sea cliff and tower. 14m. Traverse right into the cave for 2m before launching up which are perfect for first-timers. Go right around this and continue to the cliff edge where you the steep wall and out over the lip. Often wet. The east coast still holds a lot of potential Further north, the more dedicated and will locate the cave. To access the lines simply down climb 3 1fc and there are many smaller venues dotted braver soloers should seek out some of either the left or right side of the cave. Install an exit rope. Cristo ...... 7a S0 Metxicans to Tramontana all start from a small ledge which 14m. From the right side of the cave, traverse leftwards into the around. Most of these larger areas are those highball deep water solos which are means no tricky traversing. centre and onto the slightly bulging wall. From the left side of known - like the cliffs between Cala Marcal still awaiting a first ascent. The amazing this, which is difficult to attain, climb left toward the roof and and Cala Sa Nau - but have not seen much Formentor peninsula hasn't any recorded then cross it to gain the upper wall. ascents to date! Accessing the cliffs on Cova de Ses Puntes development yet. 4 PSM ...... 2fc 6c S0 Formentor is hard and they are rather 12m. Climb the centre of the cave, which is a little crimpier exposed to the elements. If you visit and Tower than the rest. Sport Crags develop something new and want to share 5 Metxicans ...... c 6c S0 it with the rest of the world, then document Dirt Track 14m. Just right of centre is a small incut hole. Climb left over it as well as you can with crag photos and this and slightly to the right of PSM. some good descriptions. Path to Sport Crags Cala Marcal to 6 Tanassa...... c 6b S0 Cala Sa Nau Please e-mail [email protected] if you've 14m. Just to the right of Metxicans is an easier but ever so These cliffs contain slightly steeper wall. The large holds keep this line in check. many caves and found new lines and check out vertical walls which www.dwsworld.com and www.rockfax.com to 7 Tramontana ...... c 6c S1 offer some excellent see what's new. 14m. The right-hand side of the cave. Watch the ledge at the potential for further MOD start. development. Map not to scale LH

5 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 42 Port de Soller MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Cristo - Tower of Falcons The main crag at Porto Cristo is covered in the Rockfax book Deep Water. Since that was

BOAT published in 2007, there have been a few new additions to the Tower of Falcons Area OIWA15 min 3 2 (page 268 of Deep Water). The Tower of Falcons is situated on the opposite edge of Porto Cristo town to Cova del Diablo. The landmark to locate the area is the large cliff-top tower. The stunning cave below the Tower may one day host some absolute DWS masterpieces.

Landing C715 Platform 1 C715 MANACOR Sa Coma

Cala Moreia PM402 1 3fc Cala Morlanda Aqua Phobia ...... 6c S0 7 Dim Dim ...... 2fc 5 S0 35m. An excellent right-to-left traverse. Climb under the shelf, 9m. There is a wall right of the face, climb the part that bulges then up and left, using a big thread. slightly over the water and veers left at the top. Cova Del Diablo FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 C714 FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 2 1fc Porto Cristo The Little Blue ...... 6b+ S0 8 The Ease of Passage ...... c 3 S3 9m. Start as for Aqua Phobia but continue up the arete on jugs. 10m. The easy way up, or down. PMV401-4 Tower of Falcons It gets 6b+ for the start, the rest is probably only 5+. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 Porto Cristo Novo 3 fc 9 Deep Sea Climbing...... c 5+ S1 It Tastes Like The Sea . . . 7b S2 7m. Up the stuck-on flake is the nicest. 9m. The blank arete right of Little Blue. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 FA. S.Smith 28.09.03 Approach 0 It Could Go On ...... c 6a S0 4 A Passage to the New ...... c 6a+ S1 8m. Climb diagonally left, on big holds, starting at the base of Drive southwards out of Porto Cristo, up the hill from the small bridge, and make a left 14m. Follow the ramp to the roof and climb up and right. the Big Easy Flake. Carry on until you reach the massive hole. turn down a straight road to a circular car park at the end. Here you cannot miss the FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 amazing stone Tower of Falcons, with its rather disturbing, eroded, inner staircase. You'll 5 Pots ...... c 6b S0 q Big Easy Flake ...... c 4 S2 need your shoulders for an ascent! 16m. Follow the crackline under the ramp to the roof and finish 7m. Climb it. as for A Passage to the New. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 FA. S.Smith 28.09.03 Conditions w Little Princess ...... c 6b+ S0 There are no tidal issues but pay 6 Squid ...... 1fc 6b S0 80m+. The mighty traverse from the landing platform takes you close attention to the sea state. PM402 Porto Cristo 8m. Traverse right, low down from the left side of the face until to the far end of the crag. Finish up Big Easy Flake. The harder Avoid hot sun on Morning Glory. you reach a flake. Climb this and finish as for A Passage... bits can normally be bypassed higher up. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03

BOAT OIWA15 min Cova del Diablo Area See Deep Water Rockfax 10 PMV401-4

Tower of Falcons 4 7 8 11 5 6 9

41 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 6 Porto Cristo Tower of Falcons MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Port de Soller Port de Soller’s DWS crag is a quiet little gem. It is bigger than it looks from the beach although there’s nothing much higher than 10m, except on the far right-hand where the Tower of Falcons AOE1 min cliff rises to around 15m. This crag is best visited if you happen to be in the area; don’t go out of your way especially if you’re enjoying the delights of the East Coast. The entire crag is undercut and in most places the sea is deep - safe for splashdowns. There may be some new route possibilities on the right side of this crag. On the other side of the bay there is a fantastic cave with a lighthouse on top. Unfortunately, this is military-owned and it is strongly recommended you stay well clear of it. 9 J Rope Way Down Slightly further northeast up the coast is Cova De Ses Puntes. This offers some harder J routes that top out a bit higher at around 14m but are not always in good condition. When 6 8 5 conditions are right though, you're in for a treat with some fantastic lines waiting to be 7 ticked. See page 42 for approach. Water Exit Water Exit Approach From Palma take the C711 towards Soller through the toll tunnel. When you reach a Tower of Falcons roundabout near Soller keep going and follow signs to 'Port de Soller'. Follow this road to Shrek, is located about 200m south of the tower at the PMV401-4 Porto Cristo the port. Parking is best found around the back streets. From the left-hand side of the bay, bottom of an easy way down. You can use Shrek to traverse make your way along the water’s edge until it gets rocky. Continue along a disused pipe along to the starts of Feist Queen and Public Enema No.1. The start to Morning Glory is slightly north east along the (covered in concrete) down as far as the rocky beach. There is a large dusty rock pillar, cliff where it is possible to make your way down to a large which prevents you from continuing any further without getting wet. Launch your dinghy ledge. La Hostia and Toni are best reached via a rope- 5 from here and paddle across, or alternatively dry-bag it to the crag. assisted descent to the right of Forat. Sa Valenta is a dry-bag to a ledge in the cave. Aqua Phobia and The Little Blue start from the landing platform. Be careful getting onto Exits - For Shrek, Feist Queen and Public Enema use a pre- Big Cave the start as there are one or two ledges sticking out and the odd greasy hold. Descend by placed rope. Morning Glory is a swim back to the ledge. clambering over the top and back to the landing platform or jump off into the sea. Routes near La Hostia requires a swim into the cave to exit. TowerofFalcons Sa Valenta is just a swim back to the ledge under the route! 4 A Passage To The New to Big Easy Flake are reached by either traversing Little Princess 1 3 Always install a rope for exiting the water where you can. 2 from the platform or walking slightly above the crag through all those nasty bushes.

Map not to scale Alternatively, you could just use a dinghy, as it is quite easy to get onto land. 1 Shrek ...... 2stc 6a S0 140m. A long and relatively easy left-to-right traverse of the wall. It ends just to the left of the bulging face. From here it's 5 Morning Glory 2sftc 7a+ S1 Conditions best to solo (not a DWS) up the spiky wall at about 3+. 160m. From the large platform, traverse left toward the large The main crag at Port de Soller faces east so it generally gets the morning and early- FA. Gav Symonds Oct. 2002 cave. The hard bit comes near the end as you make a rising afternoon sun. It also dries very quickly. traverse up to a small cave at one-third height. Jump from here. FA. Mike Robertson Oct. 2001 2 Shrek Extension . . 1stc 6c+ S0 15m. Traverse another 15m beyond Shrek to pump the grade 6 c S3 up to 6c+. Sa Valenta...... 6c Port de Soller Sa FA. Ken Palmer Oct. 2001 12m. Climb the block to the inner cave. Watch the underwater Calobra ledge and don't fall! It may be possible to jump off at the end Cova de C710 Cova de Ses Puntes (don't hold me to that) better still just reverse it. Ses Puntes 3 Feist Queen . . . . . 2shc 6c S3 18m. Not the kind of line most soloers would be happy with 1 7 La Hostia...... 3sfc 8a+ S2 Port doing with only 2m of water to break your fall. But if you are up LH MOD 23m. This fantastic line climbs the steep wall at the back of the de for it then continue traversing past the end of Shrek and climb 1348m LH the bulging wall to the right of the spiky face. The crux is near cave (right-hand side) to a large horn-shaped tufa in the roof. Soller Port C710 PM213 the top! Continue to the lip and eventually the top. de FA. Mike Robertson Oct. 2002 FA. Chris Sharma 2006 Soller Landing Platform 8 SERRA DE Port de Soller 4 Public Enema No.1 . . .1tc 6b S2 Toni ...... c 7c S1 C710 TRAMUNTANA SOLLER 1090m Selva 18m. Climb the line to the right of Feist Queen. Escape right up 18m. Climb the right-hand side of the cave mouth to the roof. Continue up and slightly rightwards to the top. a groove to an easier finish than the previous line. PM210 FA. Grant FArquhar Oct. 2001 FA. Toni Lamprecht 2006 INCA 9 c TUNNEL Alaro PM211 Forat...... 7c+ S1 C711 C713 17m. From the cave where Morning Glory finishes, tackle the PM27 bulging wall above to a ledge. The upper section needs care. PM210 FA. Toni Lamprecht 2006 Map not to scale

7 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 40 Cala Llombards South MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Cristo Novo The spectacular cave of Porto Cristo Novo Son Servera C715 was first discovered by Ken Palmer and PM332 C715 OPEA15 min Adam Wainwright in 2002 and is Mallorca's MANACOR PM402 equivalent to the Grandegrotta in Kalymnos

with its giant stalactites hanging from the PMV401-2 Porto Cristo roof of the cave. This obvious appeal soon PMV401-4 3 Porto Cristo Novo Son 2 attracted a team exploring the cave's possi- C714 1 Macia Cala Crag bilities. Unfortunately the only line to have Romantica been done though was Neil Gresham's Son Prohens

mega He Who Dares Rodders. Shortly after, FELANITX Calas de Mallorca Rope Way Down the cave was also visited by Klem Loscot PMV401-2 Cala Murada and his team but ascents weren't recorded. C714 In September 2007 Ged Desforges, Cas Es PM401 Carritxo Ladha and Nick Ward visited the area and LH Cas PMV401-2 put up six new lines in and around the cave Concos Porto Colom Map not to scale and documented them.

The main reason that this crag has not seen Porto Cristo Av much development is because you need a d Porto Colom e Vas

boat to get to the routes. Also, the top of the co da G Water Exit crag is overgrown so most top-outs normally PMV401-4 ama see people taking a long plunge. Another unfortunate issue is that tourist boats drive into the cave in the summer months, which PortoCristoNovo Llombards South makes climbing on the stalactites poten- Approach - Head south along the cliff edge and past some tially dangerous. Outside school and public large boulders which block your path. From here you can holidays - October onwards - this is less of see Llombards South and the path that runs around the cliff edge to the cave. A rope is needed to descend to the base of a problem. the crag. Use a rope to gain the left side of the cave. Exit - Install a rope on the exit point before you set off. Crags Approach Cala Romantica From Porto Cristo, follow signs to Porto Map not to scale 1 Sa tangent ...... tc 6b+ S1 14m. The easiest of the three lines on this wall. Trickier near Colom (PMV 401-4 / MA-4014) and follow the top. this road for about a mile to a small rounda- bout. Take the second exit and follow this 2 Locat Matador . . .pthc 7c S1 road all the way to the coast where the road 15m. Follow the line of Sa tangent to the lip of the cave and move out right to a block at the base of a flake. Climb this and bends around to the right. Keep following it the shallow groove above with care. around until you are heading back inland on 3 2pc the road 'Paseo de la Infanta Carlota'. Park Esplendor Geometrico 8a+ S1 and locate signs to the beach, which lies 22m. Esplendor Geometrico is the big daddy of this wall. From below on your left. where Locat Matador launches up the block, continue to the Porto Cristo Novo arete and navigate your way on the steep underside of the face. From the beach, head out along the left- Pull round slightly left near the top to make those final moves to victory. hand side of the bay along the small cliff until you reach a small area where it is Once again this is a venue that holds potential for future possible to enter the water. Use your boat Over-Grown Area development. The long wall to the right (photo right) although friable and dusty in places, could well hold a long and sustained to paddle around to the left until you reach traverse to put many forearms to the test. the cave. Also the wall beyond Llombards South looks to hold some potential lines. Always check the depth and all safety aspects Cave Right Wall when exploring these new possibilities. Map not to scale

39 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 8 Porto Cristo Novo The Main Cave MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Llombards North

BOAT BOAT IPEA10 min PEA8 min

4 5

Way Down

1 2 3

Llombards North 4 Te Lo Juro Por Snoopy. . . fc 8a+ S0 Approach - Head to the small pinnacle which sticks out to 11m. A harder and more direct finish to Balam. sea, to the left of the steps. The cave is visible from here. 2 3 Down climb the right side of the crag to reach Balams and 5 3pfc S0 Te Lo Juro Por Snoopy - no rope required. A boat is advised Balam ...... 7c From the ledge at half height, launch onto the roof and to reach the left-hand side although down climbing is still 11m. power your way up and right on good holds to the upper wall. 1 possible. Sa Rossaguera and Aresta. Follam Balam is much More technical face climbing awaits before you reach the top. A Water Exit trickier so a dinghy is probably in order. favourite line for that photo opportunity in that no-hands rest. Exit - A natural exit is possible on the left-hand side of the The Main Cave cave (looking in). It is probably more convenient and safer to 2 He Who Dares Rodders 2pc 7b S1 6 Lama ...... c 7b S1 There are only three lines at present in the cave which all install a rope to exit on the right-hand side of the cave. 19m. Start on the right-hand side of the cave. Traverse left 9m. A short face climb on the right-hand side of the cave. require a dingy to access. The Exit point is to the right of the There is definitely more potential here for new lines espe- around the arete and into the cave where you will eventu- cially near the stone staircase. cave and is easy to attain in calm conditions. ally gain some huge black stalactites, just to the left of the arete. Pull around on undercuts to finish direct on the crimpy 1 Up the Anty ...... 2pc 6c+ S1 headwall, which may well see you in the drink. 1 Sa Rossaguera ...... c 6a S0 FA. Neil Gresham July 2002 25m. Start at the left-hand side of the main cave and climb 14m. From just above sea level, climb easily to the top. diagonally right over some steep terrain to the featured upper wall. Don't pump out! 3 Geordie Racer ...... 1c 7a S1 2 Aresta ...... c 6b S0 FA. Cas Ladha Sep. 2007 17m. Climb the right side of the arete to just above the lip of 15m. Right above the mouth of the cave. the cave. Swing left for a couple of meters and finish to the Easy Way Down right of He Who Dares Rodders. 3 2pfc S0 FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007 Follam Balam. . . . 8a 6 22m. When the conditions are right, this is the one to bag! A boat is helpful to get the start. Navigate your way over the Nic Ward climbing Up the Anty 6c+. roof and join Balam. There is a lovely no-hands rest near the Photo by Ged Desforges lip of the cave so take full advantage of that. The upper wall is quite thin and technical.

The cave of Llombards South Photo by Daimon Beail

9 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 38 Cala Llombards MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Cristo Novo Sector Esperenza Cala Llombards is for climbers seeking solitude away from the crowds. There are two crags; Llombards North, which is the main attraction; and Llombards South, which is a BOAT short walk south and gets few visits. The cliff face is cut into two - the lower wall is a sea OEA8 min cliff and very soloable, mostly above clean water with no rocks.

Approach From Santanyi follow signs for 'Es Llombards' and follow the PM610 to a PMV401-2 roundabout. Take the second exit on the Alqueria Blanca right sign posted 'Cala Llombards'. Follow C714 C717 this road for about 1km to a bend to the left. C717 C717 Cala 3 Continue for about another 2km until you d'Or 4 reach a built-up area. Take the first major Porto 1 left turn signed 'Platja' as well as 'Cala Es SANTANYI Petro 2 Llombards Llombards'. Follow this for a short way and PM610 610-2 take the first right and continue down here Cala to where the road curves around to the Cala Figuerai left and winds its way through the housing Santanyi estate. Where the road splits in two, take CalaLlombards the road on the right down to a dead end Crags where you can park and walk down some Sector Esperenza 2 My name is Jackie ...... c 7a S0 A handful of shorter lines, which are easier than those in stairs to the cliff edge. Alternatively you 10m. Start from Baby Loader and make tricky moves into the can continue on the left road at the cave. There are a number of ways to access the area but left groove to join Retro Cruiser. most people tend to traverse in from the right side of the FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007 the split to a junction, turn right cave along Retro Cruiser. Upon topping out you can either Es Santanyi Llombards jump off or reverse to the right of Esperenza as there is no and right again which will take 3 c S0 walk-off due to the vegetation. Exit at the cave. Baby Loader...... 6b+ you down a semi-tarmaced road 9m. From the ledge, move left and down, to swing left into the PM610 Son 610-2 Approach - Routes 2, 3, 4 are approached by a long traverse to another parking area, which Moger from a water exit point way right (dingy required). Route 1 right of the two grooves. Climb up this, and move right to the is approached from the water exit at the right-hand end of large pocket, and finish direct. is down by the cliff edge. Upon Cala FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007 reaching the sea you can either Santanyi main cave. Cala 4 head left for a short way to reach Figuerai Esperenza ...... c 5 S0 1 Retro Cruiser ...... c 6c S0 9m. The easy crack. the cave of Llombards North, or 14m. From the left side of the wall, traverse the slab to the FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007 head right along the sea cliff for CalaLlombards bulge. Use the pocket to climb over the bulge and gain the big about 10 minutes to Llombards flake. Finish direct from here. Crag FA. Cas Ladha Sep. 2007 South. Crag Conditions As with all cave venues, you are always going to get some The Main Cave Sector Esperenza greasy rock from time to time. On the plus side these crags are exposed to the wind so this may well prevent large build up of moisture in the caves. The top- Llombards North outs to some of the lines are a Staircase little bit friable in places but this is slowly changing as more and more people attempt the lines. Llombards South

Map not to scale

37 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 10 Porto Colom MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Santanyi Es Pontas Hidden away underneath the Porto Colom Calas Es Pontas - the King Line lighthouse is an exciting venue, which is PMV401-2 de The first ascent of Es Pontas was captured more suited to the roof-hungry boulderer. FELANITX Mallorca PM401 Sa by Big Up Productions and appears in Plana The classics of the area are The Princess of V ella the film 'King Lines'. This photo comes Es Domingos courtesy of Josh Lowell at Big Up. Transilvania 7a+ and I Live in a Cave 6b. Sant Salvador Dominion Wall www.bigUpProductions.com PONTAX The lines on the lower section are short 8a+ line which suits most soloers but the longer routes PM401 PORTO C714 which top out are quite committing and gener- COLOM Cas Concos PMV401-2 ally don't see that many ascents. Retreat is 7b line S'Horta Lighthouse Area usually by jump or reversing I Live in a Cave. Cala Marcal Alqueria To the right side of the crag is a large Blanca Cala Sa Nau platform where you can stow your gear and 7b line hang out. It is also one of the few soloing Cala Serena C717 Cala Cala Ferrera venues were you can easily spectate without C717 d'Or Map not to scale having to actually climb. Also in the area is the Dominion Wall which has a huge potential but only limited develop- ment at present. BOAT PWA5 min Conditions The Lighthouse Area is situated in a sheltered cove. The main part of the crag gets the sun in the middle of the day. With all cave-style routes some of the holds can get soapy but there is little seepage. Take plenty of chalk with you because it can get quite humid at times and grease you right off those holds. 1 Easy way up or down Es Pontas Approach The Es Pontas arch is home to one of the hardest routes in 2 Follow the PM-401 takes you all the way the world. With no bolts to hang on, the line of Es Pontas 1 to Porto Colom. At the main roundabout Dominion Wall requires time, patience and super human abilities to conquer. Approach - Gaining the arch is tricky and requires either a turn left and follow the road round the short swim from the mainland to the right side of the arch Water Exits 2 & 3 bay and up towards the lighthouse. Take (indicated as Water Exit 1 on the topo) or use an inflatable Water Exit 1 To Route 1 the last exit on the left just before the boat to the same location. Be extremely careful if you are trying to get there in rough seas. lighthouse and follow this for a short Exit - Take a rope and an inflatable back-up device to help 2 Stop Look and Listen ...... c 5+ S1 way round the sharp corner until you you exit from the water. Water Exits 2 and 3 on the topo are 20m. A very easy anti-clockwise tour of the left pillar of Es slightly easier and safer exit points. Pontas. see a white house with a driveway on PM401 the right. On the left side of the entrance Two other lines have been reported but the authenticity of is the name 'Aldea Ibicenca N12' and 1 Es Pontas . . . 3sfgc 9a+ S2 them has yet to be confirmed. The first is an 8a+ variant to 23m. Start at the base of the pillar on a small ledge about 2m on the right is a 'No Entry' sign for cars. Es Pontas that starts at the right-hand side of the arch, and above the water. Tackle a V10 boulder problem over a small crosses over, to top out on the seaward side. The second route Park somewhere on the left side of the Porto roof and onto the overhanging face to reach some slightly bet- is a 7b that climbs the left side of the arch, and pulls through road. Walk through the entrance (being Colom ter holds. Continue for about 15 more moves using a series of onto the headwall where things start to go horizontal. A 7a as pinches, pockets and the odd tufa before moving right into the well as a 6b can be found on the vertical seaward side of the discreet as this is an access road to barrel of the gun. At this point it's make or break as you take arch (left side looking in), as well as a few other fun outings. property) and head straight across to find on a huge dynamic lunge from two undercuts to a large and some concrete steps leading down to impossibly hard to stick pocket. (Continuing up and then head- There is an isolated traverse on the other side of the cove to LH ing leftwards for another 6m via a series of finger pockets, and the west. the sea. At the bottom of the steps, turn topping out on the seaward side of the arch gives you PONTAX right and head for about 200m along the 8c S1. This was done in November 2005 and was Chris Sharma's original finish to the line). From the pocket, continue 3 Treasure Island ...... c 6b S1 rocky path (which requires a little bit of Cala Marcal Lighthouse Area Swim across the cove and traverse to the next bay. HOTEL up and right to cross the belly of the whale via a small juggy 90m. easy traversing in one or two spots) until rail where you may quickly chalk up. Head out to reach the Something to do if you want to see the area. Keep wandering you arrive at the crag (see map on next lip of the arch on the landward side and follow a series of fat and you will eventually come to Cala Llombards. slopes until you reach the central point of the arch. With will- FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004 page). power and anything else you can conjure, power on to the top. FA. Chris Sharma Sept. 26 2006. A truly amazing achievement!

11 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 36 Santanyi Cala Santanyi MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Colom Lighthouse Area

BOAT OPUA5 min PUA15 min

J

2

1 Platform 19 Exit Point 18 17

J J 6 J J 2 5 1 Super Sonic . . . . . 2fpc 7a S0 1 11m. Traverse left from the platform into the cave. Climb out 3 13 14 15 across the lip of the cave on good holds until almost half way. 8 Climb diagonally up from here. 4 11 7 12 FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003 10 9 2 Bird Watching ...... c 6b S0 16 15m. From the platform, climb the flake and then traverse the break-line to the other platform. FA. Julian Chapman Oct. 2003 Close-up on next page Super Sonic 3 Naked Germans ...... c 4+ S0 Area 6m. This is also a good descent route. FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003 Lighthouse Area - All the lines are reached via the traverse Drop 4 Wave Machine ...... c 5+ S0 Approach 1 Future Barny ...... c 7a S1 Zone 6b+. The only exception is Future Barny to Omprakash 6m. Traversing right into the cove leads to a slightly steeper The Cove 16m. Climb the overhanging arete to easier climbing above. wall. Climb up just right of the arete and past the left side of for which you need to use a dry-bag to get your gear to the other side and climb out onto a large ledge. the lip. 2 Wenga Xavi ...... c 7b S1 FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003 S'atic to Cris Rabbit can be reached from I live in a Cave 6b+ and traversing left along the ledge, or one of the lines 16m. Traverse in past the overhanging arete and climb the wall directly below them. to its right. Pull over the overlap to an easier wall above. 5 c S0 Sport Crag Vino Master ...... 6a Exit - Most people exit to the right of the crag onto the large 6m. Climb up to and over the right side of the lip. Careful as it's platform. A rope is not needed but is handy when rough. 3 No Me Puedo Quejar . . . . 1c 7a+ S1 a bit loose at the top. 17m. The finish marked on the topo continues over a small FA. Julian Chapman Oct. 2003 Cala Santanyi roof. Alternatively move right to join the roof section of Omparakash. Both finishes are thoroughly enjoyable. 6 Mr. Smith ...... c 6a S1 18m. It gets a bit shallow towards the back of the cave, which Staircase 4 Omprakash ...... 1c 7b S1 is where you should really finish this one. 17m. Difficult climbing up a blank corner to an increasingly FA. Steve Smith Oct. 2003 Map not to scale steep wall above. Manoeuvre across the roof on good holds to the top.

5 Ren Culo Superchulo .1fc 7b S0 Cala Santanyi 12m. The last boulder line to be found on this lower wall. After Approach - The Super Sonic Area is reached by traversing in along Drop Zone, move across the roof on small swimming or boating across to the platform (as crimps and up the blank wall. This sees most people in the marked on the topo). Alternatively you can walk drink. there from the beach. Routes on the left side of The Cove require you to swim across to the LH 6 Lu.Ci-Ana ...... 1c 7b S1 slightly submerged platform. Then traverse right 3 4 5 6 20m. The link-up between Ren Culo Superchulo and the top from here. Mr. Smith is gained by climbing down half of Omprakash. Also quite popular as an alternative mid- the right side of the cove. Lighthouse Area climb exit from the routes to its right. Map not to scale

35 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 12 Porto Colom Lighthouse Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Santanyi The small bay of Cala Santanyi is best left to those seeking a bit of fun when the weather gets too hot for sport climbing on the cliffs of Tijuana. The soloing here is limited, however PUA15 min the routes are great fun, especially Super Sonic. The rock can be brittle in places and the bay itself has been known to be hit by freak waves - all this adds to the excitement of the place. Take care in the Cove Area since the water is shallow in places and a boat is useful for reaching the Super Sonic Area. When news began to emerge that Chris Sharma was working something big in Mallorca 9 7 back in 2005 it was no surprise that the project was on the arch of Es Pontas. This 8 5 impressive arch, is isolated from the mainland, and situated slightly further down the coast and is easily reached via a short drive from the beach at Cala Santanyi. It is easy to get to in calm seas but much more difficult when the conditions are rough. Chris’s efforts are now legendary and have left us with one of the World’s hardest routes - Es Pontas.

Approach Cala Santanyi - From Santanyi, follow signs for Cala Santanyi out of the village. Take the second turning signed to Cala Santanyi, off this road (ignore the first turning). Then take Drop Zone the first left turn followed by a right turn (signed ‘HR Palmaria’). Continue along this road, past a roundabout with a tree and park by the barrier which is across the private road that leads to a tower. Leave nothing valuable in the car. From here walk towards the tower and turn right at the end. Follow the path and descend to the platform below. When you reach the sea, turn right and walk along the mini cliff until you get to The Cove. Es Pontas - Follow signs all the way to Cala Santanyi. When you reach the bottom of the steep hill you will find signs to Es Pontas. Follow the road back up the bay, past a car park, and turn left to head up a steep hill. Once at the top of the hill, turn left to take the coastal road and keep a sharp eye out for the Es Pontas signs. If you are lucky you will find yourself eventually reaching a dead end. Park here but do not block the entrance to the wooded area or park on the yellow lines. Enter the wood and turn right. Follow the track until you reach a wall and a path which veers off left towards the cliff. This leads down to the Es Pontas arch. 610-2 7 The Rabbit is Dead ...... c 7a S0 12m. The left-hand variation to Mataconejos which crosses the roof and heads out over to the arete on the upper wall. 8 Cala Mataconejos ...... c 7a S0 Santanyi 12m. Climb the roof to gain the upper wall and the crack line which curves around to the left. Pull around the side of the roof PMV401-2 and finish as for The Rabbit is Dead. Alqueria Blanca

9 Princess of Transilvania3pc 7a S0 C714 C717 Es Pontas An absolute classic! Climb the stalactite rib on the roof 12m. C717 C717 Cala Crags using good pockets to the lip. Pull up on big holds to the d'Or Map not to scale stalactite formation and a rest. Move up and right to gain the upper face and layback your way up the crack to the ledge. Porto Tijuana Sport Crag Walk off right or jump into the sea. Es SANTANYI Petro Llombards PM610 610-2 Cala Cala Santanti Cala Figuerai Santanyi

Andrew Chapman making an early exit from Es Pontas Arch Princess of Transilvania 7a. Photo: Daimon Beail Cala Crags Llombards Route 3 Map not to scale 13 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 34 Cala Serena Prest Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Colom Lighthouse Area

J J OPEA5 min PUA15 min J J

19 17 16 18

15 20 12 21 22 Prest Area 11 A nice selection of routes on good rock. A rope is useful for descending to the base of the cliff and 10 also make sure a rope is set up for a water exit. Probably the best location for the exit is under the 9 way down, but check other locations as well. Drop Zone t Es Xirimollo ...... c 7a S0 p Prest...... c 6c S0 14m. 8m. y Xapapote...... c 8a+ S0 a Gasolina ...... c 6b S0 13m. 9m. u Superguapa ...... c 8a S0 s Europa ...... c 6b S0 12m. 9m. i Malle ...... c 7b+ S0 0 Tequila-men ...... c 7b+ S0 t Topspin ...... 1c 7a S0 d c S0 11m. Sense Casc ...... 6b 12m. Big roof climbing to the upper wall. 14m. The right-hand version of Titan. Again this line finishes 12m. rather high and a down-climb is recommended if jumping off. o c q Baby Nate ...... c 7a+ S0 Diedre...... 6c S0 f Trobador ...... c 6a S0 y 10m. 12m. A shot corner to overcome with some tricky roof climbing Drop Zone ...... c 6b+ S0 12m. thrown into the equation. 35m+. This is the only way to access the lines on the lower wall but makes a fun outing in its own right. This line is normally finished just past the start of Rene Culo Superchulo where there w I live in a Cave ...... 2pc 6b+ S0 is a small shelf to rest. It is possible to continue to the other 12m. A popular line. A short roof leads to a small deep cave - side but this is rarely done. Watch out for the polish at the start. squirm in for a rest. Unfortunately there is also a big rest possi- ble on a ledge on the right, but this is off route. From the cave, continue up and right to a small roof and a sharp jug out right. u S'atic ...... c 7b+ S2 Heave your way over onto the upper wall and to the ledge. 12m. The first of three lines taking you over the final roof and to the top of the crag. Many people do this as a continuation to The rest of the routes are shown on the topo on page 12. The Rabbit is Dead. i e Mi LLamo Chris ...... c 7a S0 Niagara Will Fall ...... c 7b S2 18m. The only route on this part of the wall which tops out. 12m. A hero's medal awaits anyone trying this one! A possible Way Down Climb the left side of the bulging face. Take care near the top. continuation to Princess of Transilvania. o c r Titan ...... c 6c+ S0 Cris Rabbit...... 7b S2 Traverse onto the face and cross the white streak diago- 12m. Some serious highball action and watch that ledge at the start. 22 23 24 12m. nally then power your way up onto the small ledge. It's quite far to jump from this height so a reverse a bit first.

33 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 14 Porto Colom Dominion Wall MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Mi Primera Flinada Area

Dominion Wall Slightly further north of the lighthouse is the hidden Dominion Wall. It is a great playground PEF15 min OPEA5 min and should be visited by any pioneer who wishes to seek out further possibilities in the area. With over 300+ metres of crag to explore there is surely a classic or two here waiting to be discovered. Take a rope and abseiling gear as well as a dingy to explore the Dominion's potential. Approach - Drive through Porto Colom as if approaching the lighthouse. As the road turns head right up the left side of the bay (looking out) to a dirt track heading north east. Follow this to a rocky bay by the sea and a path along the cliff edge. Park here and head through a gate to the top to the hill. Continue until you can see an easy way down the cliff to a platform. Scramble down about 4m to a sloping ledge leading down towards the sea. Continue down 3 and round to the right (looking out) to an easy way down towards the sea. Traverse right (looking in) back around the corner (now at a lower level) towards the wall and the start of the routes. All lines are reached by traversing along Techno Mancore which is fairly easy at the start. The only problem is the section beyond Dominion Wall where you have to complete the traverse. Conditions - The wall is made up of sandstone 5 4 12 and limestone. It has not seen much traffic so 11 the top-out is still a bit loose in places. Exit - Not too many problems here as a short 10 swim round the corner leads to a ledge and an 7 8 easy exit. Ropes are always advised for rough 9 13 14 conditions. 2 Exploration - For those seeking the future realm, grab a dingy and head right (looking out to sea) to explore this giant landscape. There is one obvious area which is a large cave on the left side of the wall (photo below). Remember 1 to check the water's depth if attempting any of these lines.

1 Techno Mancore! ...... c 7a S0 4 The Camp Jogger . . . . 2pc 6c+ S0 8 Terra...... c 6b S1 Mi Primera Flinada Area 20m. The main way to access all the lines on this wall. Watch 16m. Probably the best line here. Traverse along Techno Mancore 14m. The routes from Espases to Mi Primera Flinada are definitely out for those tricky bits near the end. to the bulging overhanging feature. Pumpy climbing on good worth seeking out. They feel a bit high at the top but are still less than 15m. Banyada to Submarina need to have calm FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06 holds takes you up to a mini-roof section and on to victory. 9 Guantanamo ...... c 7b S1 conditions as it can get very wet at the start. FA. Adam Lincoln 25.09.06 14m. 2 2D 3D ...... 1c 6b+ S0 17m. The first route to be put up on this wall. Make a diagonal 5 Dominion Wall ...... 1c 6b S1 0 Mi Primera Flinada...... 3c 6b S1 w Acuatic ...... c 7b+ S0 crossing past a large horn which you can sit on for a rest. The 18m. This line is very odd and quite adventurous. From the 14m. An awesome route. Traverse to where the lower cave 8m. rest is highball climbing on large jugs. platform, climb the left side of the face using a crack and vari- begins and head up some super slopers and side-pulls to FA. Adam Lincoln 25.09.06 ous hidden jugs. When you reach the break, traverse right until reach the bulging upper wall. Power on to the top using some e c S0 you reach an exit point up a shallow corner. Abugraib ...... 7b+ humongous and ever-so-slightly sharp jugs. 9m. 3 IMAX...... c 6b+ S0 FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06 17m. Follow 2D 3D to the upper wall and make an airy traverse out over the lip of this bulging feature and onto the nose. The q Banyada ...... c 7b S0 r Submarina...... c 7b+ S0 rest is easy. 8m. 9m. FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06

15 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 32 Cala Serena Tort Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Sa Nau Cala Sa Nau is a small sandy cove, sheltered from the sea by two headlands, one of which is home to an exciting DWS venue. The headland on the right (looking out) starts OEA4 min quite small and offers one or two mid-grade lines. The crag increases in height further right eventually leading to a large cave. This is where the hard routes are with their big fall potential. The amazing Hupolup Kempf crosses the roof of the cave at the lofty grade of 8b. Further right, around the headland, is a small cove with a mini-cave at the back. This is a good starter spot known as the 'Virgin Area'. The climbing is limited but it can keep you entertained for a few hours with mostly short, mid-grade lines.

Way Down Approach From Felanitx, navigate your way around the one-way streets to find the PM-401 signposted to Porto Colom. Follow this to meet the road from Porto Cristo. Turn right, keeping on the PM-401 to Porto Colom. When you eventually come to the junction, turn left and then quickly make a right onto the PMV401-2 to Santanyi. Follow this to the little village of S’Horta. Turn left, following signs to Cala Ferrera, and after a short distance is a sign pointing to Cala Sa Nau on the left. Follow this road to its end and park. From the narrow parking area, walk along the right-hand side of the bay until you reach some steps cut into the rock. From here you can cut across right to reach the Virgin Area or continue straight on to the Hupolup Kempf Cave. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Calas PMV401-2 de FELANITX Mallorca PM401 Sa Water Exit Plana Vella Es Domingos Sant Salvador Tort Area PM401 The routes here all start off with wonderful holds, only to PORTO deliver you at a blank upper section that may well see you in C714 the drink. Cas Concos PMV401-2 COLOM Approach - Either follow the way down the line drawn on the S'Horta Cala Marcal topo, or traverse in from the Sosec area. Alqueria Exit - Normally back at the Sosec area, or a rope can be Blanca installed as marked on the topo. Cala Sa Nau Crag Cala Serena Cala Ferrera 1 Romani ...... c 6a S0 C717 C717 Cala d'Or 8m. Cala Egos

2 Dimiti ...... c 6a S0 8m.

3 Tort...... c 6b S0 8m.

4 BBC ...... c 6b S0 Cala Sa Nau 8m.

5 Cantabrica ...... c 6b S0 8m. Bounty Sector Hupolup Cave 6 Sa Multa ...... c 6c S0 8m. Dieter Werther on the three-star Ged Desforges on Attack of the Killer 7 Espases...... c 7a S0 Virgin Area line of Mi Primera Flinada 6b Spindly Fish 7a+. Photo: Steve Burdett. 14m. Map not to scale

31 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 16 Cala Sa Nau Virgin Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Sosec Area

OPUA10 min OEA4 min

Bolt

8 4 7 Way Down

6

2 5 3

1

Virgin Area 8 Approach - Virgins Are Only Human is gained by a simple Little Fish ...... c 5+ S2 down-climb and a little walk along a ledge until you start 15m. Start as for Frogger and make your way along the cliff climbing. Attack Of The Spindly Killer Fish to Little Fish are until you reach the sandy arete, which you finish up. Half way traditionally approached from the water or by reversing Frogger. through the traverse is a little cave. The climbing here is above Exit - Under the start of Virgins Are Only Human. a small ledge, so take care! Conditions - Big holds but a little greasy when humid. FA. Heidi Spets Oct. 2004 6 There is also a line inside the cave (on the right-hand side), 1 Virgins Are Only Human . 1c 6a+ S0 which goes at 7a. Unfortunately this line is often damp, and has Broker 1 2 3 4 12m. Walk up the simple ramp until you reach the roof. Then not been included on the topo. 5 7 traverse out right and nip up the right side of the roof. FA. Bernard Exley Oct. 2004 Maria Becerril getting to grips with 2 Attack of the Spindly Killer Fish Frogger 4+. Photo: Daimon Beail Water Exit Water Exit ...... 2sc 7a+ S0 8m. Climb the arete on the right-hand side of the cave to a break below the bulge. Move up and right to make some hard Sosec Area 4 Sosec ...... 2c 6a+ S0 moves over the bulge. Tis is probably the most popular section of the crag. All the 8m. Easy climbing to the grove on the left side of the block. FA. Nic Ward June 2006 routes are a good height and each one comes in two parts - a pocketed lower wall and a thin and technical upper wall. 5 2c S0 Approach - Climb down the rope from a bolt at the top of the Mano Negra ...... 6c 3 Gen Lock ...... 2c 6a S0 Long moves to the lip and some powerful climbing above crag to the platform below (good place to stow some of your 8m. 8m. Starting from the water ledge, make your way up to the on sharp holds. gear). Continue down a gully on the rope to the start of The roof and find those hidden buckets, then power to the top. FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004 Tortilla Traverse which leads to all the routes in this sector. Exit - It is vital to install an exit rope before you start as it is 6 The Tortilla Traverse ...... c 7a+ S0 impossible to exit the water without it. Start at the bottom of the way down and traverse to 4 I Tell Thee ...... c 4+ S0 80m+. Vinga Bou in the Sa Fundacio Area. Climb up this or, alterna- 10m. Start as for Gen Lock and then make a rising traverse tively, you swim back to the start. An average grade of 7a+ has right to the exit. 1 Mapau...... 1c 6a+ S0 FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004 been given but it's so long that you deserve a 7b tick for sure. 9m. Pocketed first half followed by an awesome crimp feast on FA. Many explorers and one recogniser on 29.09.06 the top wall. 5 Coldron ...... c 5 S0 7 c S1 8m. Start slightly right of I Tell Thee and make a direct ascent Bag Puss ...... 6b 2 Vip ...... 2c 6b+ S0 14m. Straightforward climbing up a pocketed and crimpy wall. of the wall to the same exit. 9m. A little more taxing and committing than Mapau. FA. James Cole Oct. 2004 The angle eases the higher you get. FA. James Cole Sept. 06 3 Rasputin ...... 1c 6a S0 6 Frogger ...... 2stc 4+ S1 9m. Large pockets take you to the thin upper wall which has 11m. Start from the same ledge as Coldron, traverse right- many golden crimps everywhere. wards to the arete and then climb to the top. Watch out for the little ledge below. FA. Heidi Spets Oct. 2004

7 C++ ...... c 4+ S0 9m. Start as for Frogger, and then climb the faint arete. FA. Peter Brown Oct. 2004 17 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 30 Cala Serena Dreta and Meteoro Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Sa Nau Hupolup Cave

OEA4 min OPUA14 min

4 1 2 5 6 3 7 Way Down 2 8

1 Hupolup Kempf. . . 3fsc 8b S2 Hupolup Kempf Cave 19m. Showing the way of things to come, Klem Loskot's test- Hard and intimidating lines for the more daring deep water piece goes up the right-hand side of the cave to the roof which soloers. Luckily, things ease off moving rightwards. is then crossed using crimpy holds. Prepare yourself for some Descend - Either Way Down 1 which is a 4 scramble and serious air time. traverse off left (facing the rock) into the back side of the FA. Klem Loskot 2003 cave. Or use Way Down 2 which is an easy 5. Exit - Tricky in rough waters and should be avoided. In 2 The Weather Man - Left-hand Start calmer seas it is easy to clamber out directly under the mouth of the large cave...... 3fsc 8a+ S2 18m. A left-hand start to the next route. 7 17 FA. Chris Sharma 2003 Scalfament ...... c 6a S1 16 18 19 10 11 18m. Follow the left-hand dark streak to the top. 13 14 3 12 15 The Weather Man 3fsc 8a+ S2 18m. Similar ground as Hupolup Kempf but at a slightly easier 8 Scalfament 2 ...... c 6a+ S1 grade. Nevertheless it requires an immense amount of mind 18m. Follow the right-hand dark streak to the top. control when making those final moves to the jug. Water Exit FA. Chris Sharma 2003 Bounty Sector The Bounty Sector has an easy descent scramble (Way 4 Vadage ...... 1stc 7c S1 Down 3) to reach Under a Dark Sky and a short down climb q Alcaeda...... c 7a S0 y Soller ...... c 7a S0 16m. Make a more direct ascent to the bulge and continue over slightly further along the crag is needed to access Bounty. 9m. 9m. making some harder moves to reach easier ground. Exiting both lines is either done by a rope or a tricky climb out of the cave. 5 w Ali Muma Ye ...... c 6c S0 u Es Baluart ...... c 7a+ S0 Cheers Chartle ...... 1pc 6c+ S0 The next two routes are at the north east end of the crag. 9m. 9m. 9m. The bulging wall on chalked up pockets is a popular one. 6 9 Bounty...... 1fc 6c S0 e Meteoro...... c 6b S0 i Calvia ...... c 7a+ S0 Wesatrocity ...... 1c 6a+ S0 14m. A good left-to-right traverse. Climb down into the scoop and 9m. 9m. 8m. The first line you come to just left of Way Down 2. traverse the finger-rail to join the last part of Under a Dark Sky. r Nomas ...... c 6a S0 o Broker ...... c 6a+ S0 0 Under a Dark Sky ...... 2c 6b S0 9m. 9m. The last line on the large rail which belongs to the Sosec 11m. Climb up and left to a series of flutings and a break under area. From the large bucket power up on spaced holds to a thin Cala Sa Nau the roof. Move slightly left and over the lip on good holds. t Aromes de Margrony...... c 6a S0 upper wall. 9m. Climb the right-hand side of the tufa. Way Down 3 OPUA14 min

Way Down 2 Bounty Sector 9

Way Down 1

10 Way Down 3 Hupolup Sector

Map not to scale

29 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 18 Cala Mitjana MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Dreta and Meteoro Area Down the coast from Cala Sa Nau is Cala Mitjana - a fantastic cliff of good height offering a small range of steep mid-grade lines. There are two recorded lines in the 7s to chal- lenge the more daring soloer. Cala Mitjana is only a 15-minute walk from the main cliff at OEA4 min Cala Sa Nau and is easily recognisable from the ship-like mast which is situated on top of the cliff. Several strong teams of climbers have visited the crag but unfortunately no official record was made on these visits except for magazine articles and documentary film footage. It is highly possible that there are a number of other lines on this crag, but until these are declared, here is a selection for you to enjoy.

Approach It is possible to drive to the bay of Cala Mitjana but it is quite difficult to access the crag. Instead most people visit Mitjana on the same day they climb at Cala Sa Nau, since it is only a short walk over the hill. From the Virgin Area at Cala Sa Nau (see page 17) head up the hill with the sea on your left. At the top is the ship's mast - head for that.

Mega 1 2 3 4 5 Virgin Area 6 at 7 8 9 Cala Sa Nau 10

Wall

4 The Dreta and Meteoro Areas 1 5 Pop...... c 7a S0 A fine selection of routes. If you are planning to spend a lot 9m. of time here install a rope to use for descending to the base 6 as well as a rope to exit the sea. In this area it is easy to top 6 c S0 Cala Mitjana Map not to scale out by traversing right to the point above Noman where there Dreta...... 7a is only a small amount of vegetation to battle through. 9m. Exit - The main water exit should be installed under the Sosec Area. It is also possible to install and exit under Soller. 7 Coloms ...... c 6a S0 Calas PMV401-2 de 9m. FELANITX Mallorca PM401 Sa Plana 1 Setze Jutges ...... c 6b S0 8 c S0 Vella Toques ...... 6b Es Domingos 9m. 9m. Sant Salvador

2 Mengen Fetge ...... c 6b S0 9 S’aixeta...... c 7a S0 PM401 9m. 9m. C714 PORTO PMV401-2 COLOM Cas Concos 3 Dolby ...... c 6b S0 0 Down ...... c 6b S0 S'Horta Cala Marcal 9m. 9m.

Alqueria Blanca 4 c Cala Sa Nau Tot Petit ...... 7b S0 Crag 9m. Cala Mitjana

Cala Ferrera C717 C717 Cala d'Or Cala Egos

An Island classic, Illuminations 6b+.

19 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 28 Cala Serena Tokio Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Mitjana

OPEA25 min OPEA4 min

Easy Way Down

2 3

1

Water Exit

2 Cala Mitjana Around into the bay to the right is a small cliff. In the middle is Approach - There is an easy grade 4 down-climb 10m to the a small cave and above this is a line of pockets, leading up an right (looking in) of Illuminations. Then traverse for 10m to otherwise blank face. 1 the start of Illuminations. For Animal Magnetism abseil in to the giant thread in the wall. Midnight Mast and Mitjana Party 6 are easily accessed by making a short down-climb (grade 3) Rich Bitch ...... 2c 7a S1 7m. Start just to the right of the hole at the back of the cave on 4 as marked on the topo and traversing right to a ledge. 3 5 8 Exit - To the left of the crag (as marked on the topo) which the ledge. Leap to the first pocket, and heave yourself up the 6 7 requires a sharp but fairly easy climb. wall. Make a tricky move onto a small ledge and finish with a Aspergilo Area To reach Rich Bitch down climb to the right of the route few thin moves near the top. (looking in) and then make a short traverse. There are many FA. Ged Desforges June 2006 exit points dotted around here.

Water Exit 1 Midnight Mast ...... c 6b+ S0

8m. Trickier than it looks. Needs some laybacking near the top. Way Down FA. 2002

2 Mitjana Party...... sc 7a+ S1 16m. Traverse rightwards to the bulge and up to the roof. Make some tricky moves over the lip and power on to the top. Tokio Area 5 La Xina ...... c 6c S0 FA. 2002 The cave to the right of the Aspergilo Area also tends to have 9m. 5 a rope in place to exit the water. The line Tokio is a golden 3 Animal Magnetism . . . . . sc (8b+) gem to try with the tricky bit at the top to get your heart 6 Tokio...... c 6b+ S0 10m. Not yet climbed - a suggested grade of 8b+ has been pumping. Top-outs are the same as for the Aspergilo area. 9m. From the right-hand side of the cave climb the overhanging rumoured. Abseil down the cliff to a large thread and hook wall on big holds to reach the vertical wall. A few thin moves your leg into it. Make some dynamic moves out left followed by 4 1 Es Pate ...... c 7a S0 and the odd mega pinch lead to a sloppy finish on the head of some shallow pockets to tackle the blank wall above. 17m. a tufa. It is quite easy to just wander over onto Galactics at the end which reduces the grade to 6b. 4 Illuminations ...... 3fc 6b+ S0 3 2 Es bol.leti ...... c 6c S0 9m. Probably the best line at Mitjana. Traverse left into a giant 7 side-pull which takes you straight into the crux. Gain the break 13m. Galactics ...... c 6b S0 9m. Start just outside the cave and climb similar territory to via some shallow pockets and continue up. Move left slightly Tokio with an easier finish. into a recess to a rest before continuing to the top. 3 Es Papa ...... c 7b S0 FA. 2002 10m. 8 Mega ...... c 6b S0 9m. 5 New Forms ...... 3fc 6b+ S0 4 Medalles ...... c 7a+ S0 12m. Climb Illuminations to the break and traverse left for 9m. about 4m until you see a pocketed line rising above you. Use these to ride to the top. Another great line. FA. 2002 27 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 20 Cala Serena MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Aspergilo Area Cala Serena is now the biggest venue on the Island, with almost 100 routes in total, most of which consist of golden juggy walls low down, and thinner, technical sections near the finish. It was developed, mostly by local Mallorcans, in 2003. OPEA4 min The cliffs rise to about 18m in places, but almost all the lines finish way below this mark with a maximum fall of around 15m if you are unlucky. Topping out is generally a breeze with most of the shorter lines finishing on some sort of a ledge. The rest of the climbing to the top of the cliff is on easier-angled slabs (about grade 2 or 3). There are some more vegetated top-outs but these can be avoided by heading down a rope to try other lines or traversing to another section of the cliff. Serena is not all good news. The left side of cliff (looking in) is sharp and grey. Most people generally avoid this area, which is from Mallorca es Fonki to the start of the Adosat Area. Another downside is that towards the late afternoon, hundreds of jellyfish have been seen streaming by. This is not a constant feature, but something to watch out for.

Safety - Water Exits Before venturing onto any of the routes make sure you have a rope in place to get out of the water since escaping is a big problem here. Also having an inflatable around is a good idea. Some of the lines require you to ‘dry-bag it’ to an area, where there may be fixed ropes but you may have to install the ropes yourself by traversing across to that area or abseiling in. Water exits are marked on topos where it is possible to install a rope. Sa Fundacio Cave Approach 1 Cala Serena is very close to Cala Mitjana. So just follow the same direction as you would Vinga Bou 2 3 4 for Cala Sa Nau (see page 16) to get to the village of S’Horta. Then follow signs for 'Cala Ferrera' and continue on the main road (past the turning for Cala Sa Nau) to a rounda- bout. Take the second exit, and follow this to the end (where the road curves around to Water Exit the left and ends) - park here. Walk down a driveway, which leads to an abandoned swimming pool overlooking the cliff edge. This area is the remains of a closed holiday park, which is slowly being bought up by private owners. It is very easy to just walk right across their land without realising it. But generally where the grass is greener, that is private land. Good behaviour is essential here especially around the entrance to the cliff top. The future Aspergilo Area 1 Llet negra ...... c 7a S0 of Serena depends on it! This is a great area to get stuck into if the lines out of the 13m. caves are dry. There are usually ropes dangling in the water from the cave where Manca and Les Ajudes start and most 2 Aspergilo...... c 6c S1 people dry-bag it to this point. The tops have become over- Calas 13m. PMV401-2 de grown, so either battle your way through the plant life to the FELANITX Mallorca wall, and onto the top path, or head back down a rope, which PM401 Sa 3 Manca...... c 6c S0 Plana you fixed earlier from the top. Vella Fenc 13m. Es Domingos e Sant Salvador Cala F errera 4 Les Ajudes ...... c 7a S0 13m. PM401 C714 PORTO Cas Concos PMV401-2 COLOM Cala Serena C ala Area S'Horta Cala Marcal S erena

Alqueria Blanca Cala Sa Nau Crag Cala Serena C717 C717 Cala Cala Ferrera d'Or Cala Egos Map not to scale

21 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 26 Cala Serena Sa Fundacio Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Mallorca es Fonki and Bombas Area

PE&A4 min OEA8 min

Way Down

Way Down Way Down 4 7 2 6 8 3 9 5 2 1 15 10 11 12 13 14 3 16 17 18 19 20 1

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Mallorca es Fonki and Bombas Area 0 El Mas Fardon ...... c 6b S0 This area is generally avoided by most people due to the 8m. short routes and sharp and brittle nature of the rock. Approach - Most routes are generally easy to get to by down q Tacon Cubano ...... c 6b S0 climbing, either of the 'way down' lines drawn on the topo. 7m. A rope is needed to exit the water so make sure one is in Sa Fundacio Area Heidi Spets, pulling hard on place before attempting any of the lines here. This cave is often damp and many of the routes seldom dry w Pasate el microfono ...... c 6b S0 one of Serena's many 6cs. out near the base. You may want to use a rope to gain the 7m. starts and install one for exiting the water. 1 Chanelance ...... c 6b S0 8m. e Bombas ...... c 6b S0 7m. 1 Diedre...... c 6b S0 2 Vacaciones en el mar ...... c 6c S0 12m. 8m. r Sifon y jena ...... c 6b S0 8m. 2 Sa Fundacio ...... c 7a S0 3 Mallorca es Fonki ...... c 6c S0 18m. 8m. t Don Simon...... c 6b S0 8m. 3 Bou...... c 7a S0 4 Escupe La Flema ...... c 6c S0 18m. Rumour has it that this one climbs the roof of the cave, 8m. y La Manicura...... c 6b S0 left to right on big holds!! 5m. 5 Batalla de Cazalla ...... c 6b S0 4 Vinga Bou ...... c 6b S0 8m. u La Corna ...... c 6c S0 18m. 5m. 6 Estilo Pancho Villa ...... c 6c S0 9m. i Cap Torero Sense Banyas . . . c 6b S0 5m. 7 La Escuela ...... c 6c S0 9m. o Guais Estails ...... c 6b S0 5m. 8 Zafarrancho ...... c 6c S0 8m. p Nora ...... c 6b S0 5m. 9 Golpe Bajo ...... c 6b S0 8m.

25 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 22 Cala Serena Adosat Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Adosat Area

OEA6 min Cala Serena

Fence

Adosat Area 7 Sa Fundacio Aspergilo to Way Down Mallorca Es Fonki Area Sosec Area to Bombas Area

Tort to Prest 3 11 12 Area 4 5 10 8 9 6

Map not to scale Water Exit

4 Vuitmil ...... c 6b S1 Approach (Routes 8 to 12) - Walking south along the cliff- Adosat Area 8m. top path you come to a set of stairs set away from the cliff Things begin to improve and the rock slowly turns to the edge (photo right). These lead down to the entrance of the golden pocketed walls people are used to in Mallorca. 5 c cave which has bars across it. Squeeze through and carefully Approach (Routes 1 to 7 - next page) - Most routes are Way Down Efecto Especial Verbal...... 6b S0 8m. follow the carved stone and concrete stairs to the bottom. generally easy to get to by down climbing, either of the 'way There is no need for a torch but go carefully and watch out down' lines drawn on the topo. A rope is needed to exit the for one or two obstacles on the way and the glare of the sun water so make sure one is in place before attempting any of 6 Toreros Muertos ...... c 6b S0 shining in. the lines here. 10m. Exit - The right-hand side (looking in) of the cave entrance. 7 Albornoz ...... c 6b S1 11m. 1 Anselm ...... c 6b S1 10m. 8 Mocs i Po ...... c 6b S1 Way Down 17m. 2 Especula ...... c 6b S1 10m. 9 Moc ...... c 6b S2 10m. 3 Adosat...... c 6b S1 10m. Path 0 Efecto Especial Verbal...... c 6b S0 6m. 12 13 q Toreros Muertos ...... c 6b S0 6m. OEA6 min

w Mini Me...... c 6b S0 6m. Way Down Way Down

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2 1 Nora Serena's cliffs are a perfect height for deep water soloing and jumping off if things get too hot. Photo: Andrew Chapman

23 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to eordo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 24