unlocked

berlin unlocked Berlin Unlocked will not make your trip to Berlin perfect. It will not refund you for your flights or get you into a VIP area. Nor will it cure your hangover, give you a back massage or solve world poverty. What it will do is give you the keys to a city with more to offer than anywhere else in the world. Every guide expounds the beauty of their subject matter but with Berlin Unlocked you will get all that you need to get the best out of your stay in a city that is suave, stunning and dramatic.

berlin unlocked introduction

So you have considered, deliberated over, decided to or actually made the final decision to travel to the city of Berlin and your expectations are high. You have spent all that money so it had best be good but you know very little about what’s on offer. Well, that’s left us a tough job since expectations are so high. This guide is not authoritative but who needs all that detail when we cut the wheat from the chaff and give you the essential guide to the preeminent city that is Berlin.

After you have finished with this laborious intro you will be taken on a whirlwind tour, more like prevailing winds though whirlwind sounds better, through the sights, sounds and smells of the city all through the medium of the written word. Our dedicated and enthusiastic/drunk and disorderly writing team have scoured every inch of this vast, awe-inspiring destination covering its culture, people and ultimately its philosophy of life. Fair enough that was a little over the top but read on and you will guarantee yourself a trip that is worth every penny you spent on that low cost airline flight. See the sights, catch a live show, dance the night away, eat, drink, fall asleep on a tram, check yourself into the local hospital and enjoy Berlin.

5 districts

Reichstag / Government Quarter Eastern & Kreuzkölln

Mitte - Western Kreuzberg

Mitte - Schöneberg & Museumsinsel Mitte - & 7 districts as a meal If central Berlin was a well-balanced meal, Mitte and the government quarter would be the meat and potatoes as a tasty and traditional stronghold. The vegetables would be provided by a sophisticated yet flamboyant broccoli, cauliflower and walnut salad: Potsdamer Platz (elegant broccoli), Prenzlauerberg (pretentious cauliflower) and Schöneberg (debonair walnut). Charlottenburg and Tiergarten would be the bread and butter as the meal just wouldn’t be the same without them. Friedrichshain, Kreuzberg and Kreuzkölln would embody a glass of well chosen wine; not a specific food group but guaranteed to enhance the flavour of the meal and tantalize your taste buds.

Mitte is home to the city’s main attractions and is After being destroyed in WWII and left desolate subsequently full of tourists. Unter den Linden runs during the Potsdamer Platz has gone east to west from Park to through extensive redevelopment. It is now working Gate and is tree lined nearly the whole way. on a reputation as the theatre district and plays is a world heritage site as of 1999 the part with modern architecture, mirrored sky thanks to five internationally renowned museums. scrapers, roof top gardens and über clean streets. Alexanderplatz, or “Alex” to the locals, is a large After the wall fell was a bohemian public square and transportation hub. The TV haven for Berlin’s youth and has since been through tower lives here and has been selflessly guiding lost a period of gentrification. The youth has grown tourists since its erection in 1969. Scheunenviertel older and their hedonism of today is bringing is the area north of medieval Altberlin and east of babies to parks and eating at slightly pretentious Rosenthaler Platz and Hackescher Market. Until the restaurants. The district is beautiful nonetheless Second World War it was regarded as a slum district and perfect for a sunny Sunday stroll. Schöneberg with a significant Eastern European immigrant and is a quaint district in the borough of and Jewish population. Today it is a glorified connector Schöneberg. It is artsy with a well-established gay linking Mitte to the hip happenings of the eastern scene and is more mature than most districts. districts. The Reichstag and government quarter is discernibly bureaucratic in appearance but finds its flair with food stands keeping the tourists content.

8 Tiergarten is a rustic inner city park and directly If the central districts were the meal, the suburbs translates to animal garden though you would be would be the table cloth. It may have character lucky to spot a rabbit amongst the multitude of but is always trumped by the food. was birds and humans. Charlottenburg is best known home to many members of the East German for the Charlottenburg Palace, the largest surviving government and is often synonymous with the palace in Berlin, and the Kufürstendamm, home memory of the regime. Before the establishment of to Berlin´s high-end fashion retailers. It is west of the German Democratic Republic (GDR) Tiergarten and in layman terms is home to money, was formerly the administrative home of the rich kids and their retired parents. Soviet Military, the site of the Stasi and the East German intelligence service. Currently it could be characterized as poverty. Marzahn- Hellersdorf is in this camp but with a presence of neo-Nazis. -Köpenick is the largest borough Friedrichshain attracts students, artists, hippies with the least amount of people. Forests and lakes and the homeless. Over the years it has grown add a touch of wilderness while fashion designers fashionable and is now home to numerous design have moved from East Berlin to open their first and media companies such as MTV . shops and business ventures. Steglitz- It is still considered shabby in comparison to Mitte is home to the Botanical Garden, tennis clubs and and Prenzlauer Berg. You will find plenty of bars, expensive polo shirts. is the westernmost clubs, pubs and cafes along Simon-Dach Strasse borough and for a tourist would likely only be and at Boxhagener Platz. Western Kreuzberg passed through en route to , land of the was the poorest quarter of former palaces. and is now a famed cultural centre. It is similar to Friedrichshain but with an embedded Turkish community and an army of tourists. It is a carnival of cultures with a vivacious nightlife. Neukölln is young and alternative, basically a cheaper version of Kreuzberg, becoming increasingly popular with students and artists. Kreuzkölln is the organically Berlin is delicious and you are free to pick at formed district where Kreuzberg meets Neukölln whatever you fancy. and learns to be hip together. Katie Chesher

9 TV Tower

10 history

Most major cities can claim to be shaped by history, but arguably none more so than Berlin. Here history seeps from every pore of the city; from buildings marked by World War Two bullets to remnants of the . Berlin has been at the centre of many important events in European and world history including the establishment of the , the proclamation of the , the rise and fall of the Nazis and the fall of the wall which divided the city for nearly 30 years. Wherever you go you will find signs of Berlin’s past, be it streets named after important historical figures or buildings of historic importance. The , , and the TV tower - all are just minutes apart. There really is no getting away from history in Berlin. It is impossible to do justice to Berlin’s rich history in just a few short pages. This section provides a very brief history of the city, pointing you in the direction of some of Berlin’s key historical sites. Daniella Graham

11 the - an overview PRE-1918 BERLIN

The town of Berlin was originally founded in 1244 and later merged with the neighbouring town of Cölln. In 1415 Frederick I became the elector of the Margraviate of Brandenburg and members of the Hohenzollern family ruled until 1918 as electors, kings of and finally German emperors. Berlin experienced a lot during this time. In 1576 4,000 people in Berlin were killed by bubonic plague and the city lost half its population in the Thirty Years War of 1618-1648. In 1701 Berlin became the capital of the new and later became a hotbed of Enlightenment thinking, laying home to prominent individuals including Voltaire and Mendelsohn. After surviving occupations by the French and Russian troops (albeit briefly), as well as a failed revolution in 1848, in 1871 Berlin became the capital of the new German Empire. After experiencing massive growth during the Industrial Revolution, in the First World War the city faced huge hardship with many citizens dependent on food aid for survival and strikes broke out across Berlin. Daniella Graham

KEY SIGHTS

SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG Spandauer Damm quickly restored to its former glory. Altes Schloss, Tageskarte (day pass) Adult/concession €12/9 the central and oldest section of the palace, must S Bahn Sophie-Charlotte-Platz be visited on a 50 minute tour. Neuer Flugel, the www.spsg.de New Wing, was designed in 1740 by ’s personal architect G.W. Von Knobelsdorff. The Palace is one of the few remaining places that You are free to explore this wing after admission. reflects the past splendour of the Hohenzollern era. It is also worth checking out the gorgeous palace The Old Palace was designed and built in 1695 and gardens (Schlossgarten Charlottenburg) which are finished in 1713. First belonging to Prussian couple free to enter and a perfect place for picnicking. The Frederick I and Sophie Charlotte, the Baroque Belvedere sits in the corner of the gardens and was interiors of their ground floor suit are stunning once a tea house for Friedrich Wilhelm II. It is worth and elegant. The Palace Theatre, which now hosts getting a day pass to explore this majestic site at a an archaeology museum, was added in the1780s. leisurely place and learn about its royal history. The Palace suffered bombing in WWII but was Kate Diver

12 BRANDENBURGER TOR Pariser Platz 7 10117 Berlin Free U-Bahn: Unter den Linden

The Brandenburg Gate has laid witness to some of the most turbulent moments in Berlin’s chequered history and is often the image people get when they think of Berlin. Originally designed by Carl Gottard Langhaus and completed in 1791, the gate is commonly described as a copy and paste job of the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens. Situated towards the western end of Unter den Linden overlooking Pariser Platz, Brandenburger Tor was one of many former tax gates into the city. Until recently the Brandenburg Gate was open to traffic but the surrounding Pariser Platz has become a lively pedestrian zone filled with street entertainers and carriage tours.

Throughout its existence, the gate has been through a lot of ups and downs, from the Quadriga being taken by Napoleon’s occupying forces and taken to Paris during the 19th century, to celebrations of the birth of the Third Reich, and more recently losing its way in a standoff-ish position between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. The Brandenburg Gate has enough history both new and old to make any history buff sit up and listen. Its central location and close proximity to a variety of other famous landmarks, such as the Memorial to the Murdered of Europe and the Reichstag, also make it a good starting point for a tour of Berlin. Crawford Albiston Brandenburg Tor 13 attractions

Attraction is a strange emotion that can be very difficult to define. What makes one person attractive to another or why will someone pick an outfit because of their attraction to it? It is instinctive. Well, Berlin is no different, being difficult to define and instinctively attractive. The city has an abundance of characteristics that will be alluring to the mind, body and soul. Malachy O’Neill

23 BERLIN ABOVE then move into the revolving restaurant for a late night dessert. Anyone who enjoys peering from above at the Down at Potsdam Platz there is the giant or as some scurrying ant like movements of humans will would say obnoxious, High Flyer. One of the largest find plenty of places in Berlin to satisfy that God helium balloons in the world that offers great complex. Even more rewarding than the feeling of views across and Brandenburg superiority is the chance to get some of the best Tor at its highest ascent of 150 metres. The ‘Welt’ views of this expansive city and breathe the slightly balloon operates for the majority of the day and cleaner air at this height. Here are some of the best is unavoidable, unless your budget is tight with an around. undiscounted ticket costing around 20 . First stop has to be the most dominating structure One building that really is a must see is ’s in the city, the television tower or Fernsehturm at main political building the Reichstag. After you Alexander Platz, which is one of the most popular have immersed yourself in the rich tapestry of destinations for tourists looking for views right Berlin politics and taken a look down at the suits in the centre. The ten euro price tag may seem carrying out the business of running the country, excessive though if you make it there just before then make your way up to see how the rest of the twilight you can take in Berlin by day and by night city is carrying out their business at the summit of

BERLIN BELOW nuclear warfare through to the 1980’s. Air raid shelters from WWII were reactivated or newly built Beneath the surface of Berlin in the deepest in preparation for the worst possible outcome. The recesses of the city are some of the darkest and Subways, Bunkers, Cold War tour helps to make most mysterious historical sites that will provoke sense of the preparations, realities and horrors of the imagination. Being a main target for allied this period of time and by experiencing it firsthand bombing meant that bunkers became a common you will be more than a little perturbed by the place structure and were then a mainstay during possibility of a third world conflict. After these the progress of the Cold War. At the dark worlds tales of containment you will be desperate to break tour you will be taken through the twisting passages free from the shackles of war and terror so the and rooms of one of the few remaining bunkers Breaching the Berlin Wall tour will be sure to satisfy. from the WWII era and will get to experience The subject is the subterranean border that existed how life was for the average Berliner during in the subway and sewer systems that were used by the countless air raids at that time. The natural people held against their will in the oppressive East progression after the bunkers of WWII has to be Berlin. The tour takes you through photo exhibitions the Cold War that left the world on the brink of and a civil defence bunker before taking you to the 24 the building. Queues can be long so an early start is the summit where you can survey all that is yours advised although it is free and worth the wait if you and take in the serenity of a Berlin sunset. Or if you get caught in the lines. are too chicken you can sit down in the seating area So if you’ve seen the city centre from every enjoy beer and watch the others work up a sweat. conceivable angle and are still left wanting then take Malachy O’Neill yourself down to Funkdurm Messedam for a view of the western quadrants of Berlin. Its ambiguous Fernsehturm: Panoramastraße 1a / 8 -24h Mon-Sat; function as some form of telecommunication tower 9-24h Sun / 10€/ S+U Alexanderplatz will not detract from the scenes on the upper High Flyer: Zimmersraße / Apr-Oct 10-22h, Nov-Mar platform. At a height of 138 metres the structure 10-18h / 20€; 13€ reductions / U- Mohrenstraße is almost like a little version of the Eiffel tower and Reichstag- Kuppel: Platz der Republik 1 / 8-00h / well worth the four euro entry price. Free / S- Unter den Linden You’ve surely seen it all by now via stairs and lift Funkturm Messedam / Messedamm / Aug-June but how about rock climbing your way to see the 10-21h Mon; 10-23h Tue-Sun / 4€; 2€ reductions sights? Well for a modest four euro you can scale U - Theodor-Heuss-Platz or Kaiserdamm the tower known as the cone at Kegel. Though it Kegel: Revaler Straße 99 / Mon-Fri 15-23h, Sat-Sun may take a little bit of climbing experience to reach 12-23h / 4€ / U - Warschauer Straße

Bernauer Strasse subway where there were seven but a sandwich in a bunker is not going to suffice. escape tunnels within 350 metres of each other. Then get down to Nocti Vactus where you will enjoy Unfortunately not all of them were successful a culinary experience in complete darkness and be but you will take solace in two tunnels that aided served by specially trained, blind waiters. The prices the triumph of freedom. Where the underground can be a slightly more expensive than your average network is concerned the most famous of all the meal. If you go on certain days you will enjoy music bunkers is Hitler’s, which has been intentionally and they even have murder mystery nights for those turned into an inconspicuous block of apartments who can speak German. Malachy O’Neill and car park. The bunker itself does not remain, the Soviets were unable to destroy it so dismantled Dark Worlds Tour/Subways, Bunkers, Cold War/ and removed the bunker, but in the car park out Breaching the Berlin Wall: Gesundbrunnen Station the back you can sit in the area where Hitler lived / Tour time, 11h/ 9€ / U- Gesundbrunnen out the last three months of his life, married his Fuhrer Bunker: Wilhelmstraße 77 / Free / love Eva Braun and ultimately committed suicide as S+U Potsdamer Platz Berlin fell to the allies. Surely after all this doom and Nocti Vactus: Saarbrücker Straße 36-38 gloom you will have worked up quite an appetite 3 course menu from 29€U Rosa-Luxembourg Platz 25 art

As you wander the graffiti-lined streets and study the diverse posters piled high on top of each other it’s really no surprise that art is at the heart of Berlin’s culture. Artists from around the world come to share in the vibrant hub of creativity; either leaving their mark on the rough stone walls of the streets or inhabiting the lively studios which tell of a long history full of trends and fashions that enjoy frequent revival. The secret to Berlin’s ever changing persona is evident when you hear the mix of languages and accents which flood the streets and the international styles which meet and mix in the melting pot that is Berlin. Art has always been a part of the city’s history with artists congregating here from the roaring twenties till the present day. Whether you’re looking for classic art or contemporary experiments there will be something here for you. Take a wander down back streets and up secluded stairs or peer into open studios and private or public galleries. Art in its many guises is easy to find here and almost impossible to avoid. Adie Teubert

35 GRAFFITI CULTURE

In 1984 when French born Thierry Noir and world’s largest outdoor galleries for artists across Christopher Bouchet began to secretly paint on Germany and Europe. Here you will find painted the west side of the Berlin Wall, a metaphorical messages of religious freedom and harmony. You’ll firestorm was set off in Berlin. A symbol of also find rich and eclectic murals paying homage to government-controlled separation, the Berlin musicians and other trailblazing visionaries. Wall became the world’s largest canvas for However the fun doesn’t stop there! Just across artistic expression and free thought. It has now the River stand vibrant reminders of a city been twenty-one years since the reunification of and country once divided. You will be amazed Germany and a new legion of painters and graffiti by the paintings you will discover at Potsdamer artists are continuing what Noir and Bouchet Platz and Checkpoint Charlie. Berlin’s Mitte and started. Kreuzberg neighbourhoods are some of the city’s most colourful concrete jungles. If you’re looking for The is the largest section of the a city that is fun, fast and photogenic, Berlin is the Berlin Wall that is still standing. It is also one of the place for you! Dustin Daniel

36 fashion

In a city with a booming art scene it is unsurprising that its fashion presence is growing at a similar pace. With almost unbounded space and low property prices now is the time to start your own business in Berlin. The result is the rise of chic boutiques across all boroughs, each with a different identity: Prenzlauer Berg for Yuppie-cool, Mitte for young professional sass, Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg for shabby-chic, Charlottenberg for the wealthy prim and Schöneberg for the unpretentious. Just as the neo-classical architecture of Unter Den Linden meets Bauhaus function and the vestiges of soviet blocks, so in Berlin the stalwart department stores KaDeWe and Galeria Kaufhof fuse with tiny innovative enterprises. Galeries Lafayette on Friedrichstrasse now reserves a section for up-and- coming local designers, bringing these contrasts together under one roof. Meanwhile, Berlin’s many and varied flea markets open a treasure trove of unique finds and dirt-cheap tat. The city’s ever changing image, geography and philosophy means that its shopping opportunities are often an adventure, and without doubt you can pick up an item here different to that of any other city in the world. Claudia Rowe

45 POSTDAMER PLATZ ARKADEN STOKX Alte Potsdamer Strasse 7 Haus Schwarzenberg Mon-Sat, 10-22h 2. HH/2. Stock S+U Potsdamer Platz Rosenthalerstraße 39 www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de Tue-Sat, 12-19h S-Bahn This commercial centre shopping centre has pretty www.stokx.de much everything you need; big chains including H&M and Mango, smaller stores selling everything Hidden in an alcove just off Rosenthalerstraße you from postcards to diamonds, several food outlets can find this tiny shop and workshop. The feel is and a couple of supermarkets. There are also minimal yet personal with a friendly assistant eager computers, for which you can pay to use the to help. The products are not high-fashion but are internet and a post office. Daniella Graham individually made and give off a practical-chic vibe. Items are designed for function, so an ideal visit for fans of bike rides in the rain. Definitely worth a look HUMANA if you are keen on lasting pieces and androgynous style. Claudia Rowe Frankfurter Tor 3,10243 Berlin Mon-Fri: 10-19h, Sat: 10-18h U5, Tram 20 / Frankfurter Tor PROMOBO Hackesche Höfe Berlin - Hof 3 & 5, Rosenthalerstr. Alexanderstr. 7 / Ecke Str. 40/41 10178 Berlin, ehem. “Haus des Reisens” Mon-Sun: 11-19h Mon-Fri: 10-20h, Sat: 10-20h U-Bahn Weinmeißerstr. U2/5/8, S3/5/7/9 Alexanderplatz shop.promobo.de www.humana-second-hand.de Remarkable because of the rectangular boxes The larger of these two non-profit stores is situated adorning the walls and windows, Promobo is at Frankfurter Tor and worth a look for hardcore fascinating in its concept. The boxes are rented out rummagers. On a total of five floors with décor in a variety of sizes to German-based designers as a as dated as the clothes the stock is fastidiously space to display and sell their products. Shoppers arranged. The signs can be confusing for non- can find anything from clothing to souvenirs and natives: beware of getting lost amongst the plus-size know that each item is authentic and original. As section! Items are mostly “DDR-chic”, so be ready much a gallery as a shop. Claudia Rowe to search hard for something of real beauty. Claudia Rowe

46 food and drink

Eating in Berlin is relatively inexpensive for a European city. The city is packed with cafés and restaurants so you will have plenty of choice. Kreuzberg has a big Turkish community so head here for cheap food and scenic views along the canal with a young, student vibe. Friedrichshain is also known for its multitude of bars, clubs and restaurants located around Simon-Dach- Straße, Boxhagener Platz and Schreinerstraße. During the witching hours head to Mitte, an area packed with bars, cafés, and restaurants. Oranienburger Straße is popular, especially with tourists. Prenzlauer Berg is popular with yuppies and artists as a self proclaimed ‘up and coming’ area, whatever the hell that means, pretentious may describe it better. It is an attractive district with an abundance of pubs, restaurants and cafés. Schöneberg has a great street café atmosphere focused around Motzstrasse and Fuggerstrasse. If you fancy some more upmarket restaurants then head to Charlottenburg where the best restaurants can be found around Kurfürstendamm, Kantstrasse and Savignyplatz. Kate Diver

51 BRUNCH RUBENS Sunday Brunch, all you can eat: 9.50 €. After a long night out you can have Sunday brunch Meringdamm 65, 10961 Berlin, U7 in countless amounts of places. One of them is Monday-Friday: 9-open end, Sunday: 10-open end the bar area in Simon-Dach-Strasse (M13, Libauer) Tel: 030 – 69 56 86 00 in Friedrichshain, which has lots of bars offering www.rubens-berlin.de brunch for 8 to 9.50€. If it´s warm and dry, enjoy sitting out in the sun surrounded by the young and A suave and relaxed Sunday brunch in Rubens, trendy of Berlin. One example is the bar Habana spent exactly how it should be. International where you can have brunch for 8€ (no drinks cuisine, all you can eat and a vibe that welcomes included). And if you are there on a Sunday go to you whether alone or in company makes Rubens a the Flohmarkt in Boxhagener Platz, a flea market good filling in the sandwich of Sunday flea-markets. just a few minutes away from the cafes. Gemma Kitty Brandon-James Ferrer

HABANA Simon-Dach-Straße/Gruϋnberger Straße 57 9– last person leaves S+U Warschauer Straße Happy hour: 18-20h, 23-24h (Fri & Sat 24-01h)

As one of the few cafes open at 9h Habana is perfect for breakfast but also serves Texan, Mexican and Tapas dishes from 6- 12€ to enjoy all day. With free WI-FI this café is a hub of activity. In the evening sample the array of cocktails at the infinitely long pulsating cocktail bar then head to the terrace to soak up the energetic atmosphere as the seating spills into the busy street. This café provides all you need, closes when the last customer leaves and provides free blankets on cooler evenings. A definite winner. Kate Diver

52 Habana fast food For fast food you can always head to one of the fast food giants like McDonald’s or Burger King but if you fancy something a little more authentic then head to an Imbiss. What’s that? A mobile or permanent stand where you can have a snack or a small meal that fills you up for a few coins. You can find them in busy areas, but be aware that some are better than others. Ok, now you are there. What to order? Taste anything, even though you have no idea what you are asking for. Or try these:

Currywurst Curryboulette: A boulette is a fried meatball, like a hamburger usually made from herbed mince. Curryboulette is a curried version. Turkish Pizza: Not a pizza in a traditional sense, but a wrap covered in a red paste and filled with a variety of things; feta cheese, doner meat, salad, whatever is available and takes Currywurst, a pork sausage cut into pieces with your fancy. It is then rolled up and eating as a curry powder and ketchup on top. Average: 2€. wrap. Great to be accompanied with Pommes Frites (chips). Döner Kebab: no, it doesn’t come from Turkey. It was invented in Berlin in the district of Kreuzberg by a Turkish immigrant in 1971. If Bratwurst: another sausage, but bigger. they are priced at less than 2€ then you might Serving depends on region but expect a bread want to start worrying about the quality of the roll, mustard and one of about 40 Bratwurst meat but it’s your choice. Average: 3€. recipes. Kate Diver & Gemma Ferrer 58 drinking in berlin Socialising over a drink is a big part of Berlin culture best varieties of white wine and Spätburgunder with thousands of cafés and bars the streets are and Dornfelder the best red. There are cocktail bars constantly teeming with Berliners relaxing over a here and there if you have a desire for something a beer or a coffee. Beer is synonymous with Berlin little different. Coffee is obviously the continental so don’t be surprised to see people drinking beer choice but be aware it is often much stronger than anytime, anywhere. There is a host of local and coffee served in the UK. As for soft drinks all the regional brewers producing an extensive range of usual suspects are here but Berliners often like to beers at a reasonable price so you will be spoilt put their own twist on things such as the old GDR for choice. Wine is also popular in Berlin with Fritz-cola. Watch out for the water pump but other Riesling and Silvaner being known as two of the than that the tap water is fine to drink. Kate Diver

drink guide

Fassbier- draught beer Weizenbier- wheat beer (hefe – yeast white, kristall – filtered) Schwarzbier- black beer Kelbier- dark ale Bock- strong seasonal beer Altster/radler- beer mixed with lemonade/orangeade Diesel- beer mixed with coke Berliner weisse- sour beer mixed raspberry or woodruff flavoured syrup Weinschorle- wine with fizzy water 59 nightlife

The rule of night stalks the day rearing its head when the sun goes down; anything goes. Nightlife is not governed by the movements of the sun. It is common to see late- night revelers and early rising commuters colliding at the break of day.

Berlin is one of the few cities in the world where nightlife and culture fuse together. Cerebral and working; a construction of a new identity distances this city from Soviet apartheid. What is apparent is a creation of freshness, progress and transparency as boundaries are pushed and become less clear. Nightlife and culture become one in an explosion of expression which bathes and provokes your senses and your feet into life.

Kitty Brandon-James

Cassiopia during the day 63 TAPE CLUB ZAPATA CAFÉ Heidistrasse 14 Oranienburger Strasse 54-56a Friday 23:59-6h U-Bahn - Oranienburger Tor U-Bahn - Hauptbahnof Price: Depends on the night or acts playing (usually Price: 10€ pretty cheap) www.cafe-zapata.de Tucked away amid warehouses on the border of Tiergarten and Mitte is Berlin’s premier hip-hop Amongst the many museums in Oranienburger spot. One of the first things you will see when you Strasse is a rather large drinking hole that will enter the venue is the cassette tape wallpaper have you entertained through the night till the covering the halls. The long hallway feeds into early morning light. Quite simply a bar with a dance floor and bar. The boom bap sound great alternative live acts, a laid back ethos and emanating from the speakers is loud enough to unconventional décor, tall people should watch they rattle the overhead disco ball and the large wooden don’t singe their hair on the built in flamethrowers. tree model in the center of the dance floor. Here Meander out back and there is much more. Once you enjoy some of the finest tunes from the last you have listened to the main act you might ten years. If you desire a slightly slower pace, head fancy a quick game of table tennis, grab a hotdog upstairs where the temperature and atmosphere smothered in ketchup and mustard or watch are a lot cooler. Here some of Berlin’s finest DJ’s impromptu entertainers. You will grab a drink at will be spinning house and techno vibes. When you one of the various outdoor bars while relaxing in leave the Tape Club you may be drenched in sweat, the faux beach area. You may not have too many of with ringing ears and the smell of cigarettes on your the pricey spirits but one thing is certain you will be clothes, but is that such a bad thing? Dustin Daniel back. Malachy O’Neill

64 Zapata café during the day entertainment

Berlin is quickly emerging as one of the most stylish and creative cities in Europe. With a huge art and fashion scene across the German metropolis, as well as a firm grip on modern technology and music, it is easy to see why Berlin has become the nucleus of German entertainment. From live music to open air cinemas, the city has plenty to offer. Berlin is a very youthful city and with the majority of its attractions aimed at young people the city has an exceptionally up to date and exuberant feel. Here we have reviewed a handful of the best places to go and get your fill of entertainment and no matter what your taste there’s something for everyone. So let us entertain you. Charlotte Harrison BERLIN FILM LOCATIONS

When you look around at all the people and it is of little surprise that more and more films are places of Berlin today, it’s hard to imagine that a using Berlin as their backdrop, putting Berlin well mere 20 years ago that the city was so divided, and truly back on the cinematic radar. So whilst both physically and mentally. Now however, the here, why not venture to these locations and take in focus is on the city’s amazing transformation not only the sites themselves but also the cinematic into a beautifully unique example of European relevance behind them. architecture, art and atmosphere. With this in mind Charlotte Harrison

AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 DAYS

In the 2004 remake of this adventure classic starring Jackie Chan, a scene whereby the protagonists highjack a hot air balloon in Paris was actually filmed in Berlin, in Charlottenberg Palace and its grounds. THE BOURNE SUPREMACY

Famous Berlin landmarks such as the Alexanderplatz clock, Oberbaum Bridge and Fernsehturm (TV Tower) feature throughout the film as Matt Damon’s character races around Berlin trying to escape from the authorities. Another location featured in the film is Berlin Ostbahnhof, the railway station opposite to the Eastside Gallery, to which Damon can be seen driving up to and hurriedly running up the station’s staircase.

BABELSBERG STUDIOS

Many well known films such as Inglourious Basterds (2009) V for Vendetta (2006) Enemy at the Gates (2001) Valkyrie (2008) and Mission Impossible III (2003) have all been produced in Potsdam, in the famous Babelsberg Studios. You can visit the studio’s tourist attraction ‘FilmPark Babelsberg’ between the 1st of April and the 31st of October, from 10am until 6pm, with an adult price of €20. Attractions include a stunt show, a look behind the scenes at the work of make-up artists and set designers, a large children’s playground, a tour of the studios themselves and many other interesting activities which will enthral avid movie enthusiasts.

70 SONY CENTER CINERSTAR ORIGINAL IM SONY CENTER Potsdamer Straβe Potsdamer Straβe 4 Berlin S+U Potsdamer Platz Adult prices vary from 5.50-8€ www.sonycenter.de www.cinestar.de

The Sony Center opened in the year 2000 and has As initial impressions go, it couldn’t have been more been the technological hub of Berlin ever since. It disillusioning. The lobby is small and cramped with is home to several cinemas, a film museum, and the hoards of people frantically checking show a large Sony shop. There is also a wide variety of times and buying tickets from one of the several tourist friendly restaurants, all of which have Wi-Fi English speaking members of staff. However, this is access. merely a façade, with an escalator ride revealing a large and luxurious cinema. The centre itself is open 24/7 but the shops, restaurants and cinemas inside all have their own A high glass ceiling allows floods of light to shine varying opening times. Charlotte Harrison through from the world above. A red carpet adorned with famous movie quotes leads the way to each screen so that you can arrive in style, and two concessionary counters offer the usual multiplex delights such as popcorn, sweets and gallons of Pepsi.

The theatres themselves are large, with tiered royal blue seats that couldn’t be more comfortable if they tried. And with tourists and locals alike joining together to view the latest Hollywood blockbusters in 2D and 3D, English and German, it has a truly international atmosphere.

As the only cinema in Berlin to show only the original versions of films, it is a must for English speaking movie lovers in particular. In all, this CineStar has everything you could possibly look for in a cinema experience. Charlotte Harrisson

CineStar im Sony Center FREILUFTKINO KREUZBERG Mariannenplatz 2/Adalbertstr 73 U - Bahn - Kottsbusser Tor 6.50€ (5 films for 27.50€ or 10 films for 50€) www.freiluftkino-kreuzberg.de

All summer long Freiluftkino Kreuzberg takes the cinema experience to a new level replacing comfy chairs with arguably more comfortable beach loungers, even providing blankets to shield against crisp night breezes and employing dusk as nature’s natural dimmer. Showtime is 21h and the box office opens 30 minutes prior. As one of Berlin’s oldest open air cinemas it offers a mixture of contemporary and classic international films screened with German subtitles as well as German films with English subtitles. For a spin on the typical movie date be sure to pack your own blanket and remove the stress of arriving early enough to secure the provided beach loungers and blankets (they have been known to run out). As an impromptu night in the park take advantage of the for poor cinema etiquette. Whisper to your neighbour, don’t shout vendor booth selling salty popcorn at the screen, limit your rise and lateral movements and remember and sweets along with a decent to return your chair and blankets to their homes before moving on. selection of beer and cider from Be sure to bring a cosy sweater or scarf. If you are having trouble 2.50€ per bottle. Avoid all regular locating the screen keep looking, asking and wandering about. It´s faux-pas’ as open air is no excuse there somewhere. Katie Chesher

72 the essentials

Your main objective in Berlin is to see the sights, enjoy the food, drink and have fun. But there are some important questions you have to ask before coming here. Where will I stay? How will I travel? What do I do if I get hurt or sick? What week is it? How much is that doggy in the window? This chapter will give you essential tips from choosing the best hostel to navigating the streets using public transport and more. Get basic information on what kind of identification is needed at the hospital and what amenities are available at the supermarket. Written for tourists by tourists, the essentials will make your stay in Berlin a little easier. Donna Douglas

75 EMERGENCY SERVICES NUMBERS Ambulance – 112 Police – 110 Fire Brigade - 112 important Taxi - 030 21 01 Berlin City Code - 030 Germany’s Country Code: 0049 Emergency On-Call Doctor (Bereitschaftsärzte) (030) 31 00 31 information British Embassy: Wilhelmstrasse 70, 10117 Berlin (030) 20 45 70 do’s don’ts

Always try to have some cash on you. Many places Forget to bring an umbrella; the weather here is do not accept credit or debit cards very unpredictable throughout the year, and even the sunniest of days can see heavy rain In the check-out line of the supermarket, pack your articles quickly Forget to bring an adapter plug

Say no when the kebab man asks if you want onions Be offended when your sweat mixes with your on your sandwich before a night out neighbour’s on the dance floor, ‘what’s mine is yours and yours is mine’ mentality will take you Know the name of the Djs before attempting to get further in the big name clubs, it may soften the door man Take public transportation without a ticket, it is Take advantage of the backyard setup outside the not worth it as the enforcers eat naive tourists for bottle shop, a clever monkey’s beer garden brunch

Avoid wearing Helly Hansen, New Balance and Walk in the bike lanes and be sure to give the Lonsdale as they have been adopted and somewhat cyclists the respect they think they deserve rebranded by neo-Nazis

76 TENTSTATION Seydlitzstr. 6, 10557 Berlin S5, S7 or S9 to Hauptbahnhof Station Camping spot 11€, 4€ per tent (2 person tent) 11€ per night, plus 4€ per tent (2 person tent) www.tentstation.de

It is hard to believe how close this campsite is to hostels Berlin´s central “Hauptbahnhof” station. Situated on the grounds of a closed down open air pool PFEFFERBETT HOSTEL within the Mitte/Tiergarden districts, the campsite Christinenstrasse 18-19, 10119 Berlin provides a volleyball court, bar and perfect people U2 Stop Senefelderplatz watching opportunities with the skate park. www.pfefferbett.de Facilities include clean toilets, shower areas and Dorms start from 12€ tent hire. Lauren Crabb Privates start from 32€ Apartments are also avaliable on the website CITY HOSTEL Glinka Str. 5-7, 10117 Berlin The motto ``right in the middle, out of the www.cityhostel-berlin.com ordinary`` could not be better phrased for this U6 to Stadtmitte centrally located new hostel. The former brewery Dorms start from 14€ combines the historical significance of the building with modern interior design, providing the perfect In the beating heart of Berlin and just a 5 minute backdrop for the most pleasant stay in Berlin. The walk to Postdamer Platz and Checkpoint Charlie rooms provide perhaps the most comfortable sleep this hostel offers little character and charm but you will ever experience in a hostel within spacious makes up for that with convenience. The dorms are 4, 6 or 8 bed dorms. Though no kitchen facilities both comfortable and clean, with the benefit of 24 exist, cheap food and drinks are available 24 hours hour reception and in room lockers for valuables. a day and if nothing takes your fancy, supermarkets The buffet breakfast will more than accommodate and restaurants are close at hand. The outdoor morning hunger pains, setting you up nicely for a terrace and bar area provide the perfect location day of sightseeing. The hostel bar, adjoining terrace to mingle or just to chill out with some of the and pool table lounge provide a pleasant backdrop free board games or playing cards. If alone time for either a relaxing end to a day or a cheap is desired the book exchange would more than beginning to a night out in Berlin´s notorious party accommodate your needs. Lauren Crabb scene. Lauren Crabb

79 from a ticket counter at any of the major U-Bahn stations or airports. There are plain clothed transit officials patrolling the trams and trains and if you cannot produce a ticket, you will be subject to a fine of 40€. transport Buses are punctual most of the time (except during Germany is known as a car-loving nation. From rush hour). Some of the major roads in the city Volkswagen to Mercedes-Benz, the Germans centre have designated bus lanes to avoid heavy know how to travel in style. But you will be glad traffic. Taking a double decker bus will get you to know that you don’t have to dig deep into your where you need to go while giving you a great view pockets to travel around Berlin. Germany’s public of the city. transportation system is one of the most modern Berlin trains, buses and trams are simple to use. and efficient in Europe. Each stop is announced in advance and displayed The U-Bahn (underground train) operates from on a screen for everyone to see. It would also be 4 - 00:30h Sunday- Thursday and 24 hours on beneficial to get a map so you know exactly where weekends. There are 10 U-Bahn lines operating you’re going and which stations are best to transfer all over Berlin and the stations are short distances at. The fares are reasonably priced with a single from each other. one-way ticket costing 2,10€ and a day ticket setting The S-Bahn runs above ground beyond the city you back 6,10€. There are also Berlin Welcome centre and into the suburbs. It provides more Cards which offer discounts to many attractions service with 17 lines in operation however the across the city. For ticket prices go to www.BVG. stations are spaced further apart and the wait times com. For those on a budget, public transit is a great are longer. way to travel in Berlin. Donna Douglas Both the U and S-Bahns are clean, well-kept and quiet compared to public transit in other larger cities. But don’t be surprised to find yourself in the middle or a raging party at 3 in the morning. The locals sometimes move the party from the clubs to the trains, brining their own music, beer and even a disco ball. Trams run mostly in former East Berlin. They are punctual and because they have their own lanes, they never get stuck in traffic. They also have their own ticket machines on board so there is no excuse to be caught without one. But be wary of malfunctioning machines which take your money without providing a ticket. It is probably safer to buy 81 SCOOTER RENT BERLIN can be seen riding all over the city. There are Rother Strasse 16 many designated bike lanes both on the roads 9-18 Mon-Sat; and sidewalks just watch out for the nonchalant 1 Day: 30€ pedestrians. It is mandatory to ride a bike with a U-Bahn Warschauer Strasse bell, lights, and working brakes to warn the idiotic, www.scooter-rent.com meandering tourists you are coming. There are several bike rental shops around Berlin such as Lila For those feeling a little more adventurous and Bike in Prenzlauer Berg. Simply bring your ID card or willing to brave the confusing streets of Berlin, a passport and a 20€ deposit. The first day will cost 8€ scooter is the way to go. Scooters are fuel efficient, and each additional day is 5€. Get down to a Sunday can be ridden with any car driver´s licence and Flohmarkts and purchase a bike for 30- 40€ if you because they can be parked on the sidewalk you are staying longer. Bicycles can also be brought don´t have to worry about expensive parking. onboard the trams and trains but you have to buy Scooter Rent Berlin located at Warschauer Straße the bike a ticket as well. Go to www.BVG.de for bike offers great 2 seat scooters. There is a deposit of ticket prices. And best of all, you can re-sell the bike 150€ and the prices vary from day to day so check at the end of your trip and get your money back. A out the website for further details. The deposit bike is a great way to feel like a true Berliner on the includes the clean scooter in working condition, a go. Donna Douglas full tank of gas and 1 helmet. The scooter must be returned in the same condition at the end of the rental period or additional costs will be added for cleaning and re-fuelling. Just call the company by phone to make a reservation and your scooter will be ready on the next business day. Get a true feel of the Berlin roads at a fraction of the cost of a car with a sporty scooter. Donna Douglas

LILA BIKE Schönhauser Allee 41 8-20 Mon-Sat; 13-20 Sun 1 Day: 8€ U-Bahn Eberswalder Strasse www.berlin-citytours-by-bike.de

If you enjoy a bit of exercise during your excursions then a bicycle is for you. Berliners young and old

82 useful language Free (unoccupied) – frei Toilet – WC/Toilette communication essentials Male – Herren Hello – Hallo Female - Damen How are you? – Wie geht’s? Platform – Gleis Yes – Ja Push – Drűck No – Nein Pull - Ziehen Please – Bitte Thank you – Danke Excuse me – Entschuldigen Sorry – Es tut mir leid sightseeing Bus/tram stop – Haltestelle Train station – Bahnhof Underground station – U-Bahnhof general phrases Tourist Information – Fremdenverkehrsburo How are you? – Wie geht’s? Art gallery – Galerie Very well, thank you – Sehr gut, danke Palace – Schloss/Palais Where is/are...? – Wo ist/sind...? Castle – Schloss/Burg Do you speak English? – Sprechen Sie englisch? Church/Cathederal – Kirche/Dom I do not understand – Ich verstehe nicht. Park – Garten/Park Please could you speak slower? – Bitte, sprechen Museum – Museum Sie etwas langsamer? shopping useful words Do you have...? - Haben Sie... ? Entrance – Eingang/Einfahrt I would like... – Ich hӓtte gern... Exit – Ausgang /Ausfahrt How much does this cost? – Was kostet das? Open – offen Can I pay by credit card? – Kann ich mit Closed – zu/ geschlossen meiner Kreditkarte bezahlen? Free (no charge) – gratis/frei/kostenlos 83 Doctor - Arzt / Ärztin Head - Kopf eating out Flu - Grippe Have you got a table for...? – Haben Sie ein Tisch Health insurance card - Krankenversichertenkarte fűr...? Hangover - Kater Breakfast – Frűhstűck Headache - Kopfschmerzen Lunch – Mitagessen Hospital - Klinikum / Krankenhaus Dinner – Abendessen To hurt / ache - Wehtun The bill, please – Die Zahle, bitte Ill / sick - Krank Fixed price menu – Tageskarte Pain - Schmerz Cover charge – Couvert/Gedeck Seized up (in spasm) - Verspannt Menu – Sparkarte To prescribe - Verschreiben Wine menu – Weinkarte X-ray - Röntgenstrahlung Glass – Glas Bottle – Flasche Knife – Messer Fork – Gabel phrases Spoon – Lőffel Am I still allowed to...? - Darf ich noch...? / I’m not Plate – Teller allowed to... Ich darf nicht mehr... Cup – Tasse Can I? – Kann man? Can’t I ? Kann man nicht? travel Get well soon - Gute Besserung! Where is the bus stop please ? – Wo ist die Bushaltestelle, bitte? My doctor says... – Mein Arzt sag... Where does the bus for Dresden go from please? – Wo fährt der Bus nach Dresden ab? My head hurts – Mein Kopf tut weh / My eyes hurt Where does the train for Dresden go from please? – – Meine Augen tun weh Wo fährt de Zug nach Dresden ab? From which platform? – Von welchem Gleis? Nothing serious – nichts Schlimmes How much is a ticket? – Was kostet ein Fahrschein? What is the matter with you? – Was fehlt Ihnen? accident vocabulary What can I / must I / Must I not drink or eat? – Was Appointment card - Bestellkarte kann ich / darf ich / darf ich nicht trinken oder Back - Rücken machen? 84