The Campaigns

2)•)

HISTORY THE CAMPAIGNS

BRITISII FORCES IS SPAIN AND PORTUGAL, Unde rlaken to relicvc tbose Countries FROM THE PRENCH USURPATION ;

COSI I» R £ II X N DIK O MEMOIRS OFTHE OPERATIONS OF THIS INTERESTING WAR, CUARACTERI5TIC REPORTS OF THE t SPJNISIIAND PORTUGUESE TROOPS, AVO ILLUSTRATIVE ANECOOTES OF Distingnished Military Conduct in Individuais, Whalever llieir Rnnk in lhe Army.

Troii tyriujvc inilii nuilo discrimine agetur. ViR6. J

VOL. I. POLICY OFTJIE WAR. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. PREUMINARIESTOTHEOPERATIONSOFTHEBRITISHA

LONDON: PRINTED FOR T. GODDARD, MILITARY UBRARY, 1, PALL-MALL. 1812. Ga)ahin and Marchant, Frinter», IngramCourt Londoii. FIELD-MARSHAL HIS ROYAL H1CIINESS

TBI SDufte of gorft,

COMAfANDER-IN-CHIEF OF ALL IIIS AfAJESTY'S FORCES,

SfC ê[c. ftc.

SIR,

IN eondeseending to grant your Royal IIighness's most gracious permission to dignify the present Work by the sanetion of your name, it would be matter of great regret to tbc Writer that it should not be more worthy of that lionour were it not for the additional opportunity it affords of evineing your Royal Highncss's ÍV DEDÍCATION.

unfailing dcsire to eneourage evcry object of military utility.

The Great Frederic, Sir, whosc school of war you so early emulated, for the purpose of rcndcring your eountry,— already great in every thing else,—as powerful in the use of its modem military resources as it had been antiently great in arms, was amongst the earlfcst favourers of military mcmoirs in modcrn times; he was also, Sir, one of the greatest authors of th em, for, whilc he excelled the ehief warriors of his age, he set the glorious example of aeknowledging, for

the benefit of others, errors from which, as a philosophical general, he knew lie could not be exempt. DED1CAT10N.

Manj officers, particularly those lindei the patronagc of your Royal Highness, and some, whilc yct in an inferior grade of rank, liave yieldcd, for the instruction of their country, cminent examples of judgcment and industry, in the ac- quisition and diffusion of knowledgc ncccssary to military opcrations in the prcscnt as wcll as othcr theatrcs of war.

None, Sir, howevcr, have yct had the op- tunity, in modera times, of sketching the bold though irregular cfTorts of opprcsscd hnmanity against a forcign tyrant, unwca- redly maintained against cvery species of advcrsity, and subsiding into the stcady measurcs of scientific war undcr the influence and aid of a British force,—a compa- VI DEDICAT10N.

ratively small force, opposcd to the whole grand French army of the península,— whose generais, under wise principies and the eommand of a Wellington, have set at nought the highest talents of France!

To render, Sir, the plans of military memoirs, laid down by those great authorities in the modem system . of ivar, more familiar, and more extensivdy useful, is the mtention of the present endeavour, though it cannot be presumed to approaeh but at the.humblest distance to such cxemplars, and its intention is ali for whieh it dares to shelter itself beneath your illustrious namc.

The eommand of your Royal Highness DEDICATION. Vil has becn so propitious to thc military system of Great Britain tliat it inspires hope ia thc humblcst objcct of your patronagc :—the superior facilitics ofoffiee; the uew vigour of military enterprise; the benevolent consideration of thc soldicr; the ready reward of merit; the dissemina- tion of that noble principie of justice which prefers the prevention to the punishment of crimes; the munificent cstablishments every where forined or improved for the care of the fricndless orphan, the solacc of the afflictcd, or the repose of declining age!—these, Sir, are sueh uu- obtrusive objects of it, that the military publie looks naturally to thc aeeomplishment of every great and good end in your command of the military force of Great Britain. VIU DEDICATIOX.

That your Royal Highness may be loug preserved for this purpose is the ardcnt prayer of,

Sir,

Your Royal Highness's

Most humblc

And most d u ti fui Servant,

lanioa, Januury, 1812.

TUE AUTUOU, PREFACE.

TO urge any thing in proof of the utility of military mcmoirs, or of military histories in general, would bc highly impertinent, after tlic manner in whieh they have becn reccived in Europc during thc. last eentury, and even in England, sinee thc translation of Thiclckc*s Account of Evcnts in thc Scvcn Years' War;* not that it is to be inferred that England was belúnd hand, cither in heroic deeds or in gratcful euriosity to record them, but that her heroes, like Suwarrow, kncw better how to fight than write, and thc bulky fólios and

* By the Messrs. Craufurds. X PREFACE. quartos on thc wars of Eugene and Marlbo- ro ugh, and tbosc wbich succcedcd, down to that of tlie 1'rcneh revolution, are little adaptcd to tlic rapid glancc of thc soldier, intent to seízc thc spirit of a campaign and aclapt it to bis future purpose.

The rcmark of lord Bolingbroke that history is philosophy tcaebing by examplc, will bc found particnlarly to apply to that of war, insomucb tliat one of the grcatest writers on the military art, among thc antients, found it necessary to thc complction of a scientific treatise,* to compile, froin the Greck and Roman his- toriaus, cxainplcs of the conduet of the grcatest warriors in every military operation, in a series agrecablc to the progress of war;—a work whicb of itself, as observed by Aiidreossi.-j- yields a systcm

* This work is lost, exeept as far as ineorporated with Yegetius on Military Affairs.

+ In the Philosophieal Decades, Paris, 1802. PREFACE. xl ( of military science founded solcly ou the experience of the greatest generais.*

The Mcmoirs of campaigiis liave been seldom written till the conelusion of the wars in wliicli they liave oecured ; but the multiplications of public journals, many of whieh are excellent, yet not ali solely directed by the love of trutli, nor ali eal- eulated to yiekl a jnst view of every military operation,f but which, nevertheless,

* The Stratagematicon of S. Jnltus Frontinus.—Of th ia work, iiotwitbstanding the interest it must aequire with Englishmen, from the eclebrated eoinmand of that Ko- man general in Britam, (A.D.75,) it is singular that no English translation ever oceurred till a few months sinee.

f The eoinmunieations which form the intclligenee of some of these, though not illaudably intended, certainly remind one often of the fly whieh marshal Saxe somewhere eoudeseends to make exclaim, a9 it whirled round the vortex of a earriage-wheel, '* What adust rce niake!" and, what is worse, liave sometimes been found injuriou* at the seat of war. x,! PUEFACE. ftimish variety of cotcmporary dcscriptions, would sccm to dcmand that thcy should be more speedily followed with somcthing in tlie coolcr mcthod of history, to which thc soldier can apply with eonfidcnce for tliosc facts and rcsults which forni bis bcst instruction.

There is also much relativo matter of a secondary naturc which may be incorpo- rated with such a history, and whicb, tliough not obvious, perhaps, to the un- military reader, niay be of high progres- sivo value to thosc who are to recruit thc armies, whose operations are the subject.

Such is,— a view of thosc grounds on which are founded the policy of thc war, and which have a tendeney to supply the original inspirations of heroic ardour, by ajust spirit arising from due sense of thc cxpcdicncy of an object in the compli- ca ted polities of highly-civilizcd states, P RE FACE. Xlii when tlie repulsion of wrong, or thc dc- fence of innocencc, can no longer bc thc sole causes of war.

Thc topography and general history of the theatre of war, also, is obviously an object of immediate utility to ali wh o are destined to act upon it.

, On thc trite principie, fas est ab hoste doceri, thc laborious rescarches, which so successfully precede the operations of the cneniy in every part of the world, would scem at lcast to call for some exertion in this respect ainong ourselves.

To say nothing of our obvions dcfi- ciencies, with respect to Spain, it is long since general Dumouriez complinientarily complained that,—" The English travellers, those diligent observers of men and things, scem to liavc ncglectcd Portugal, . or to liave despaired of íinding iu it any object that could repay their trouble, or XIV PREFACE. satisfy thcir spirit of pliilosophical re- scurch/'* And th is ncglect lias not bcen

* Account of Portugal, (1775,) Preface, p. 2, M. Du- monriez thus justly coniinues: "Nooc visit Portugal but mereantilc ínen and those absorbed in eoinmeree, who, eonfined to thcir desk or the exchange, sce no plaee but Lisbon or Oporto, and Hve entirely ainong thcmsclvcs; they, therefore, ean obtain but a scanty knowledge of the country." Of the Spaniards, thc equal «ruth of bis reinarks is still more surprising : " ThcSpa- niarcfs," says lie, " though they have a thousand motives of policy, rivalship, and hatred, to urge them to a seru- pulous cxamination of the neighbouring kingdom, are yet more indiflerent than the English; they have no

map of ita no plan of its fortresses, no aeeount of its iirmed force, its resource, or of the eharaeter and temper of its inhahiiaiits; if such exist itean only be within. tiie impcnetnible scrutoires of ministers, out of whieh not cven the exigencies of war ean draw them. It muit he fresh in thc recollection of many offieers how,

ín the cainpaign of \7dQf while the army was encamped at Zamora, with the intc-ntion of petietrating into Portu- gal, the general, mar quis of Sarria, stood in bis hall surrounded by li is siaff-ofíiecrs, like the figure of Pcr- plexity and Diffidenee, eraving information concerning lheroads of Portugal frum persons as ignoram as hiinself j how one mao had beard frotn a pedlar that betweea such PREFACE. xv without some results, which it is fortu- natc if they liavc not bcen increased; since, even marshal Bercsford is described as experiencing difficulties, in liis ad- mirablc progress in Portugal, from " bc- íng a stranger, in a great mcasurc, to the manners and customs of the peoplc lie was appointed to command,"* and a " comnrissariat as having mistakcn their

towns the highways were rugged ; anotiier had been tald, by a lady in Valladolid, tliat other roads vvere pas- sable or impassable; ali was guess and bearsay ; no plan of a cainpaígn was formed, becausc there was no topographical knowledge; and yet, at tbat very time, lay, buricd in dust and oblivion, in the publíc offices, the Memoirs of the Great Duke of Alba, the Duke of Ossuna, Don John nf Áustria, and the Marquis of Bey, the maps and surveys made by their orders, and the plans of Nicolas de Langres, a French engineer, drawn in 1640. The war of 1762 lias not produced even a tolcr- able map, and Portugal is as little known to the Spa- níards, in a military view, as the deserts of Arábia."

* Dr.Halliday's observationson the Portuguese army, Chap.L p.5. XVI PREFACE.

road, and gonc, with thcir wholc dcpôt, into thc centre of the French lines."* How execllcnt must be thc spirit of that army which, under such elifficultics, could cvcn maintain itsclf against such an enemy !

Thcse are among the objects wbich will bc attemptcd m the work of which the first volume is now presentcd to thc public, with much regret that its exccntion should havc been unequal to the intcntions of the writer, from circumstances of which, howcver, no qnerulous dctail shall incrcasc the cvil; — , but, if thcse objects hávc such an ordinary interest, how must it be increased when applicd to the present war in Spain and Portugal!—a war in which the military force of Great Britain is not only secn rege- nera ted, and again seeking the enemy on that continent, which, in the infatuation of

* Lctters from Portugal and Spain, by Dr. Neale, Physicían lo the Forces, Lettcr ix. 57.J—Tliis wriler has some farther facts rclative to Spain, which are unnccessary to the present occasion. 3PREFACE. XVU

Europe, hc had proudly called his own; but rousing, also, thc spirit of a great peoplc, dormant for ages, and creating numo rous native-armies that must for ever destroy thc hope of his Consolidated Eu- ropean empire, and gives another region . of liberty to mankind !

Thc details of thc present war have long afforded objects, politicai as well as military, of importance and interest equal to any that ever arrested thc attention of thc British public; and the progress of its campaigns must strongly excite thc cu- riosity of thc country, as well as thc army, cither as cxhibiting thc grand experiment of a new warlike policy, or thc conduet and powers of a British military force, claiming its rank among the armies of Europe.

The novel ànd conflicting cireumstances of the war, and of ali who have engaged b XViil PREFACE. in-^it, have hithcrto preeluded thc possi- bility of forming such a colleetivc view of its history as should illustrale thc most íneagre account of its military opcrations; although it has not been by any means' deficient in parti ai skctehes, of which the clcgancc and oftcn íidclity excite surprise, and which, coming from thosc oceupied in the facts they describe, deserve a high commendation.—Any particularization of these, if not impertinent, would be at Icast invidious.

Thc period, however, it may be repeated, is at length arrivcdwbcn the resulls of a permanent employment of British troops, on such an extensive scalc in thc warof the península, would seem imperiously to requirc something towards a collcetion of the materiais for tliis part of its history, whcn at lcast thc flceting evidence of present events re- 'quire to be recorded, lest actions, which should render men illustrious, and nations proud, may pass away or suffer from PREFACE. . xlS time and prejudice a distortion injurious to truth.

There havc arisen in th is war traces of British energy, and of patriotism in oui allies, of whieli the coldest transcript would bid fair to rival those of any other military epoch, but which might well cmploy the discrimination of an Es- pagnac, the judgement of a Feuquicres, and ali the energies of a Guischard. Too little promisc cannot be given of what is intended to bc performed in the present work ; the w ri ter lias, however, en- deavourcd to conecntrate whatever information he possessed, or was accessible to him, particularly respecting those events of tlie campaigns which, if they dazzle not with an evanescent brilliancy, are likely to yield a steady and important light to the operations of future wars.

In the continuous performance of this b2 XX PREFACE. task hc will endcavour, as far as hc is able, by submitting, in addition to his own rcsources, whatever documcnts lie inay derive from publie or private means to military arrangement, to prcsent a just . idea of—

The poliey, the theatre, and tbe operations of the war;

The organization of the British allied army of the peninsula iii its various de- partoients;

The plans and means of the eontending parties, causes of victory, and value of the resnlts;

And as, througliout every rank of the army, there will always be found some distinguishing traits in individuais, fronrt the rapid forniation of a good line of operations in the general, and the couptfceil PREFACE. XXI by whicb his thousands are directed in thcir execution, to the steady and prompt performance of the rainor duties of the subaltcrn and private soldier, which are to yield strength, agility, and universal mobility, to his army; eonsiderable care will be taken to record th em with duc «attention :—particularly that the conduct of such as liave gloriously sufFered or fallcn be appreciated, and hcld up as exemplars to thosc who are to form onr future ar- ínies. How sweet is it, in tranquillity, to review the toils and perilsof the well-foughten fiel cl, or to contempla te, in the last act of his heroism, the departed friend,—

*' If Memory o'erhis tomb no tropby raise!'*

Of the arrangement of tliis work little need be said, for it lias not fulfilled the idea of the writer; yet it niay be remembered that it is not excelled in works XXII PREFACE. of a higher character on similar subjects, composed with evcry advantagc.

There has been mu eh discussion as was to be expected 011 a topic so novel in many of its particulars; to its scttlement the best means have been used, in a comparison of various conflicting accounts, af- terward examined by the best authorities.

These endeavours will, it is finally hoped, befound not totally unproductiveof utility to the various ranks of the British army.

The exhibition even of the various mater- nais in a collective form must be aceepta- ble to ali concerned ; and facility of reference, at lcast, convenient to thosc whose important oceupations cntirely refuse lei* sure to form or explore the numerous sources from which they are drawn. To pthers the attempt to transmute the esscntial parts of numerous large and costly volumes, inca- PREFACE. XXHt pable, however necessary, of being transported with the limited baggage of an army on the alert, into a portable and unexpensive form, cannot fail to be an object of consideration.*

For tlíis purpose, as well as that of pro- gresstve informado n, or correction, which will be gratefully aceepted, (parti eularly from oííicers employed onthisservicej)on being addressed to Mr. Goddard, of the MiUtary

* If it were intended to rest the claims of the work merely upon lhe ininor raerit of reduction of labour and expen$einthispubHeation,it might, withouttbe leastinvi- diousness, be remarked that the superb volumes of Neale, Carr, Jacob, Costegan, Murpby, and some otbers,—the numerous tomes of Bocrgoing, Du Chatelet, (yetuntrans- latedj) La borde, 8ce. Sce. besides the varinus worksof writers wlio have treated on different parts of the subject, of wbiehlittle more can be neeessary than vvhat isineluded even in the minor divisions of the present -work, perhaps in the present volume, amount inprice to many multiptica- tions of that of the whole of the volumes when complete. XXIV PREFACE. Librarij,No. 1, Pall-Mall, the work will continue to be published in pcriodieal divisions: and whatever graphic illustrations raay be found neeessary will be prepared by the pro- prietor in the eourse of the publieation.

Lonãon,Jan. 1,1812. ; s.

CONTENTS.

Dedicatíon, Preface.

BOOK I.

CHAP. I.

INTBODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS : — POLICY OF THE WAR. §. ]. Warlike Policy of modem Europe, I. Balance of power. ii. War of the French revolution. $. 2. Policy of retolutionury France. í. Revolutionary spirit. ii, Scheme of universal empire. §. 3. Emigration ofthe Potuguesc court. §. 4. Usurpation ofthe Spanish gorcrnmcnt, §. 5, Military policy of Greai Britain, XXVI . CONTENTS.

CHAP. II.

MlLITARY VIBW OP THE PENÍNSULA, ADAPTED TO

,THESE CAMPAIGNS.

$. 1. Noticesj geogrophical and kistorical, 78. The península, 78. §. 2. Spain, it$ manners and customs, 85. $.3. Civil economy, 102. i. Municipal arraogements, 107. ii. Post-roads, &c. 108 $.4. The Spaniskprovinces. i. Irregular circuit of 50 miles round Madrid, including part of Old and New Castile, Leon, . and Arragon, 1S2:—soutkward, Getafe, Illes- cas, Toledo; Hucrta dei Rey, Casa dei Cam- po, Villa Viciosa, San Fernando, Loechcs, Guisando; Soria, Ávila, Alcala, Legonas and Vicalvaro, Torrejon, Guadalasçara, Grajane- jos, Bujerraval, Fuencalieote, Londares Arcos, Monreal, Cetiva, Ateca, Calatayad, Fresno, Alíuunia, Roraera, Saragossa; Huesca, Tar- ragona; Terruel, Daroca, Caual of Arragon; Monte Soxrero, Gallia, Fauste, the Bocal, Fontellas, Aranjuez. ii. Madrid to Cadiz, 154:—Ocaoa, La Mancha; El Viso, Almadio, Guardiã, Temblique, Ca- CONTENTS. XXV li

nadade Higuera,Madridejos,Puerta la Piche, ViUalta, Manzanarcs, Santa Cruz, Alinoradiel, . Ycvenez, Consuegra, Ciudad Real, Almoyra, Sierra Morena; Dispeoaperus, Las Corrcde- ras, La Carolina, Guaroman, Baylen, Jaen Anduxar, Aldeadcl Rio, El Carpio,Bujalance, Las Ventas de Alcolea, Córdova; Ecija, Car- mona, Seville; Del Oro, Alcala, Utrera, Ar- cos, Xeres; Ports Mary, Cadiz. iii. Jndalusia, 170 :—Cadiz,Matagorda, and Fort Louis, La Carracca; Isle of Leon, Chiclana, Algeziras, 1'alomas, S. Rochc, Spanish Lines, Gibraltar; Antequcra. iv. G rarutda, 185:—Málaga, Velez Málaga; Aque- tilla, Orospeda, Pena de los Enamerados, Loxa, Santa Fe, Granada; Alhaina, Pellena, Guadix, Venta de Guer, Baya; Chirivil, Ve- lez el Rubio, Lumbreras. v. Murcia, 199;—Lorca,Totana,Fuente deAloms, Carthagena; LosAlumbres,Campo Spartario, Mareia; Archena, Almacarron, Mula, Caca- vaça, Lorgui, Calaspura, Cieza, Origuela. vi. Falência, 20G:—Elche; Alcudia, Alicant; íli- ci, El Pântano, Alten, Contentayna, Alcoy, Barchel, Biar, Mogcnte, San Felippe; Alciu, Algemisi, Valência; Beniinamet, Burgasot, Leria; Alcubia, Andilla, Cavales, La Valida, XXVIU COXTENTS.

Bexis, Vivei, Xeriea, Segorvia; Torres Torres, Morviedro; Ahnenardo, Castellon de la Plana, Nulis, Villa Real, Oropesa, Veata de la Si- nieta, Aleala de Sibert, Beniearlos, Vinaroz. vii. Catalonia, 228 :—San Carlos, Uldecona,Venta de nos Fraines, Tortosa; Perellos, Ballaguer; Cambrilis, Villeseea, Tarragoaa ; Campo de Tarragona, La Figaretta, Vendrell, Villa Fran- ea, Terrasa, Barcelona; Igualada, Cervera, Solsona, Cardooa, Lerida; Segre, Mataro, Áreas de Mar, Canet de Mar, San Po), Tarn- pone, Pineda, Acaleilla, Magrat, Gerona; Olot, Figueras; Rosas; Selva Alta, Selva Caxa, Llansa, Lampcrudan, Pont des Moli- nos, the Pyrenees, viu. Arragon, and the Passes ofthe Pyrenees, 247. ix. Navarre, 248:—Tudela, Tafalla, Pampeluna» Roncevalles; Iruo, lsle of Pheasants. x. Biscay, 250:—Guipuseoa, Bilboa, Hernâni, Bergara, Toloso ; Alegria, Villa Real, Mon- dragon, Salinos, Vittoría. xi. Old and New Castile, and road tkrough the Py- renees to MadridfQ.Ô*:—Puella, Arrainon, Mi- randa, Mayago, Bribiesea, Burgos ; Arlançon, Quintana de la Puenta, Paleneia ; Duenas, Cabezon, Valladolid ; Fuensaldagne, Olmedo, Saachidrian, San Rafael, Villa Castia, San CONTENTS. XXIX

Giuste, Santa Maria de Nieva, Segóvia ; {New Castile, Q.59J St. Ildefonso ; Itiver Eresma, Paular, Riofrio ; Balsain, Guadarrama, Eseu- ri ai, Madrid. xii. Astúrias, 264: — Santillana; Oviedo; San- lianes. xiii. GaUcia, 265:—Ferrol, Corunna,Orsan's Bay, St. Jago de Compostella, Vigo, Bayonna, Be- tanzos, Logo, Constantine, Honor ias, Cabre- ro, tlie Valearso, Villa Franca dei Bierza, Ca- eabelos, Cubillos, Ponferrada, Molina Seeo, Fuen Sevadon. xiv. Leon, 2G9:—Leon, Canal of Campos, Medina dei Campo, Medina de Rio Seca, Astorga, Sierra de Sevadon, Ponte dei Orbigo, Castle of Don Ju.in, Valência de Don Juan, Saha- gun, Valderas, Villalpando, Castra Nueva, Zamora, Toro, Alaejos, Salamanca. xv. Estremadura, 276:—Placentia, Alcântara, Al- buquerque, Badajos ; Merida, Medina, Zafra, Sierra Morena. xvi. General skcteh of SpanisU Commcrce, 280. ^. 5. Rural Economy. 289. §. C, Military Economy, 310. §. 7. Sketch of general Adminhtration 0/ Government, 312. XXX CONTENTS.

CHAP. III.

MiLITABY VlEW OF THE PENÍNSULA CONTlNUED.

§. 1. PORTUGAL—Notices Topogrophical, #c. 322. §. 2. The Provinces, 324. i. Entre Douro t Minho:—Guimaraens, Viana, Ponte de Lima; Mançao, Oportoj Barcelos, Valença, Braga. ii. Traz os Montes, 328 :—Torre de Moncorvo, Mi- randa, Bragança, Chaves, iii. Beira, 331:—Coimbra, Montcmoro, Velho, Vísea, Lamego, Almeida, Guarda, Castel- branco, Idanha, Penamacor, iv. Estremadura, 339:—Lisbon and thc Tagus, 340. §. S. Measureâ Roads, fyc.from tke Capital, 344. §. 4. The Provinces continued. i. Estremadura continued, 358:—Bellem, Torres Vedras, Alenquer, Leyria, Thomar, Abrantes* Ourem, Santarém, Setuval. ii. Alentejo, 363:—Evera, Estremez, Beja, Mo- rera, Campo de Ourique, Villa Viçora, Elvas, Olivença, Campo Mayor, Portalegre, Ar- ron :hes. iii. Algarve, s68 :—Lagos, Portemayo, Tavira, Loulé, Alcontim, Faro, Estoy. CONTENTS. KXXi

iv. Progress from Lisbon to the Sponish Fronticr, 371:—Peninche, Óbidos, Vimiera, Anual, Cintra, Mafra, Chillieros, Montelevar, Bellas, Saccavetn, Villa Franca de Xira, Azambuja, Ponte Almonda, Golegam, Cardiga, Bur~ quinha, Tancos, Torre de Almonrel, Zêzere, Punhete, Abrantes, Saota Luzia, Gavaon, Nitz, or Nissa, Villa Velha, As Carnados, Castel Branco, Atalaya, Alpheprinha, Cam- pinha, Castanheira, Belmonte, Guarda, Al- meida,

CHAP. IV,

PRELIMINARYOPERATIONS OF THE BEITISH GOVERN-

MENT AND OFTIIE PROVISIONAL POWEKS OF SpAlN AND PORTUGAL.

§. 1. lietrospect oftht State ofthe Península in i 807-8. §. 2. Simultaneous rising ofthe Provinces of Spaín. §. 3. Dcclarations oftheir Motives, Principies, fyc. i. Declaration ofthe Supremç Junta ofSevilIe, 431. Ji. Precautions directed in Spaoish military Opera- tions, 438. iii. Declaration of War agaiost France,445. §. 4. Declaration ofthe Bhhop of Oporto on the part of Portugal, 448. §. 5. Communications between tltc British Government and the provisional Powers ofSpain, 45. INDEX.

HISTORY

QT THE CAMPAIGNS, &c.

BOOK L

CHAP. I. tNTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS!—POL1CY OF THE WAR.

Warlikc Policy qf modem Europe.—Balance qf Power.—War ofthe French Revolution.—Policy qf revolutionary France.—Revolutionary Spirit. —Scheme qf universal Empire.—Emigration qf the Portuguese Government.—Usurpation of the Spanish Government.—Military Policy ofGreat Britain.

W^HOEVER would acquaint himself with the real interest and itnportance of the campaigns of the British forces in Spain and Portugal must take with him to the consideration of them much rela- VOL, i. B 2 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKI. tive information of a very various and extensive CIUP.I. J v*—-v-"«^/ nature. The principal circumstanccs of the history Introductíoa. of modem Europe, for more than a century at least, should be perfeetly within his recollection : lie ought to possess a tolerably aecurate idea of the general policy of war, and whatever relates to it of the law of nations; and in proportion only to his knowledge of human nature will he he able satis- factorily to account for many of the events which these campaigns have produced to his view. To the readyacquírementof information in these and other particulars, the state of modera literature is extremely favourabie. Scarcely is there a part of the subject which nas not obtained new evidcnce within the last fifty years, and, what is more, which has not been powerfully illustrated, and reduced by popular forms and methods to the levei of almost every understanding. Against the application of this knowledge to íni- lttary aífairs by military men, however, there has almost always existed in England an inconceivable prejudice; andit cannot therefore excite wonder if that part of the army which is not by the particular duties of a department habituated to scientific rescarches should not always possess sueh information to a degree which is obviously necessary to the completion of the military character. . This is certainly the more to be regretted in a INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. t

conflict like that in which Great Britain is at pre- BOOKI. r CHAF. U sent engaged, with opponents in whom no infor- >—""v"*"- mation is neglected that can in any way tend to facilitate thcir military operations;* and necessarily so, since on these alone depend lheir existence, and the preservation of that vast series of institutions which they have erected on the ruins of nations. It will not be here pretcnded by any means to supply this deficiency, wherever it may exist, but to furnish a bi ief exposition of some striking topics in the policy of a war the most just and honourable "of modem times; and to lead the young soldier to sources from which at leisure he may derive more important instruction.

In briefly recurring to the warlike policy of modem Europe, the object.which seems principally to arrest attentíon at present is that thirst for uni-

• For instanee, the emission of gcographers for the purpose of accuratcly delineating the face of Europe, the employraent of topographers in the collcctions of details and numerous clerks in tracing maps and plans, cven in time of peace, are among the preparalions which so much facilitate French enterprizc; while, to encourage and dírcct its operalions, the War-office (Depèt de la Guerre) of Paris díd not disdain even to issue abstracts of hit- tory, and considerations of the principal historians " in a military point of view." To these may be added, the placing in the conquered countries postmasters selected from the oíficej of Paris, the sending out emissaries of every description, &c. &c. B2 4 CAMPAIGNS TN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

fiooK I. versa]dominion wliich lias influenced the conduct of' CliAP. I. ^^v-^> mankind in ali ages, which inspirited the legions of Wariíkc j»iicj antient Ronie, and aftenvards incited the successor of modem Eu- ' roP* of St Peter tò render bis spiritualities subservient to temporal power, ,and created, in the genitis of the soldier Loyola, the .extraordinary project of an order, which, with pretended motives of a nature purely religious and retired, should secretly influence every goverament and state in the world, tiII a fit opportunity occurred for assuming their re- galities.* This spirit of universal conquest and dominion

* We are too apt, in contemplating this subject, to refer alonc to the splendid arais, and riot the policy, of antient Rome ; forgetting also the powerful manner in which the spiritual dominion nf the poutifex maiimus contributed to his temporal universal sway j and bow the power of knowledge in the members of the order of Jesus affectcd every politicai institution ínlhe known world. The cultivation of science/and the cducation of yoidh, their principally avowed concerns, enabled them to acquire the government of the mind. Their formation into classes under a general at Rome, whence they disperscd thernselves throughout the globe, systema- tizèd their exertions, in which they preserved the mort profound policy. They feared no danger,nor was any difficuhy insurmonnt- abletothem. Their persuasion of Sigismond, the Swede, to remain in hia Polish dominions, and invest a senate of thernselves with the royal authorityof Sweden, (as recorded by the duke de Rohan, in his " InteresU and Maxhmof Princesand Sovereign States,") was by no raeans dissimilar to the remo vai of the Spanish royal family to France in our day, while Buonaparte should usurp lhe crow» of Spain, POLICY OF THE WAR. . ",* has lost nothing- of its ãntient force in modern "JÍJ" times, but, on the contrary, lias derived the advan- ^£&n£ tage of various politicai modifications. EíWJÍ."1

. The balance of power between the states of mo- Balanceei dern Europe, the preservation of which is still marked as a principal object in the annual parliamentary grant of an army to the king of Great Bri- tam, has inconsequencenecessarily had a considerr able eífect on the modern warlike policy of Europe. The power of France, though formidable, was for^ merly checked by the weightof Áustria and the ris-? ing energy of Prússia; other inferior states had their weight in the scale; war was less destructive, and peace was accelerated by the mediation of diíferent states, whose independence was preserved by the great confederacy.* Britain, only desiring the dominion of the seas, had no view to continental ag- grandizement, and was ehieflyinterestcd to preserve her own place in the scale of power, hy keeping every part of Europe as equally balanced as possible, since, should any one state absorb the rest, it must aífect her own maritime dominion. This principie formed the groundwork of the principal wars of the last century; as that undertaken at its commencement to prevent the accession of a dauphin of

* For some agreeable discussion on this subject, see Genlz on the State of Europe. CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

France to the thróne of Spain, then vacant, by a

Balance of granel alliance of the emperor, William III. of Eng- power mEu- ] j ] h States General; tliat which took place tope. an( ' an( t e * r when the death of the emperor Charles VI. awa kening the ambition of tlifferent powers to participate in bis dominions, or to seize tliem altogether. England supported the claims òf the archducbess Liaria Theresa, and France those of the elector of Bavaria, and froni auxiliaries soon became principais in the war.*, The war of tbe Frendi revolution, however its principies have been distorted by the dreadful variation in the incidents of that event, must also be referred to the same source, or be deemed, on the part of our allies, a war of the most unprincipled aggression. rvênchreToin- ^e French revolution possessed the power of t,on* peculiarly exciting those apprehensions; but what was worse, and equally peculiar, its governors possessed the power of inspiring at the same time co-

* The English history of Rapin furnishes perhaps the best account of our military operations during the first of these periods; lo which may be added, the Life of Prince Eugene by himself. That of Marlborough was unfortunately left unwrilten, notwithstanding the handsome legacy of the duchess to Mallet, the poet, for lhe purpose. There is a worthless folio history of the wars of both these generais. For the second. period, we have Lloyd and others; Tielke's celebrated Account of Reraarkable Aflatrs; lhe King of Pmssia's History of his own Times, &c. POLICY OF THE WAR. tcmporary governments with a belief of the weak- hess of their o\vn resources. The energies of â v people long depressed, when Tecalled to action, *™<*revok* possess a power superior to their apparent strength, and decaying governments soon found their error in respect to those of revolutionized France. The appeal made by this revolution to the passions of mankind, cnforced by sophistical com- ments on the crrors of ali estahlished governments, furnishcd to France new means of overthrowing the balance of Europe, by forming a party in her fàvour in every state. By cabal and the employment of vulgar prejudice, the fidelity of individuais composing these parties, on whom often the safety of each state depended,becarne undermined.—Mili- taryprojects,weaklyformed and corruptiyexccuted, instead of crushing called forth the-energies of France, and rendered her every where victorious on the continent. Nothing can be more evident than that ali military operations should be adapted to the circumstances that occasion them, and notunalien- ably contracted to any antient plan formed on obsolete relations; yet, during this war, so new in its origin and extraordinary in its progress, snch has been the superior care and interest exclusively devoted hy the British government to its other relations, that the same military principies, only on a 8 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAlN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK r. more extent}eci sca|e witH respect to our allies, ,V*7yT*fc"' bave been followed. on whicb the comparatively dull Frcacb icvoio. routine of those of the last century were conducted. Coalition after coalitíon has been formed, though the cabinets with whom it was once worthy to coalesce had been succeeded by weakness and corruption.* Holland, tbe Low Countries, the Empire, Switzerland, Italy, Savoy, and Spain, bave become subservient and tributary to France, and, notwithstanding ali our maritime and commêrcial greatness, the crisis seems about to arrive which has so long excitcd fear,—tbat any one state íhould absorb the rest of' Europe. t , As if to confound us tn our politics, by advancing on every stcp opposed to her greatness by Britain, and to complete the novel policy of Eu- rope, the successful general of France, in imitation of his prototypes of antient Rome, by gradations,

* What else could have displaced the archduke Charles in the moment of success, and nominated generais predeíermined against the vigour of that prince ? What else produced the downfall of the Prussian monarchy, whose army had been the piodel of Europe? •J- For exlensive information in detail on these subjects, and Others connecied wiih them, it is scarcely necessary to refer to RussePs History of Modem Europe, Valtel on the Law of Na- tions, and to lhe interesting recent work, entitled an Historical Survey of lhe Foreign AfFairs of Great Britain, with a View to explain tho Causes of the Disasters of the late and present Wari. POLICY OF THE WAR.Ií 11U assumed the imperial power, and became the crea- 7 tor of a feeble race of kings scarcely able to asr J^^T . . , French revolu- cend their fleetmg tnrones! úon.

The power of revolutionary France will be per- PQ].JofKVO]w ceived by the manner in which its govermnent has tion

always been fond of historical research; their republic made th em passionate admirers and enlight- R*»olotionary Frince. ened imitators of antiquity; and their government, availing itself of this predilection for the victorious commonwealths of Greece and Rome,* soon táught them to overlook altogether individual interests, and tastes, and enjoyments, both in their foreign politics and in the details of their internai economy; they admit no balanced advantages or di- verging claims; ali the capacities, and' energies, and habitudes, of private life are unrelentingly wrested to the production of force for the subjugation of the globe, or, as co-ordinate with this object, for the aggrandisement of the reigning family.—The changes of form in their government have occasioned no remission in this pursuit; it has always been spoken of amongst them with confidence and zeal.-^-Events have recently brought * " Considering what is good/' says Machiavel, " I am of ©pinion that the same fortune and prosperity raay fae expected by any prince or state which exercises the same arts and industry as the Roraans have done before them.—The way of en- larging their empire was peculiar to the Romans, and certainly no better is to be found.—Nobody thinks of restoring the old discipline of the Romans; none of our people wiJI believe that it is possible to do now what was antienlly done: they deceive them- sejves,—and commonwealths, which have an ambitionof extenq*- ing lheir empire, roust do it by the ways of the Roraans. We have their example before our eyes and may followit if we please, &c." POLICY. OF THE WAB. 11 it more intonotice, and.nothing now remains but i to achievethè ultimate object, * la grande pe?isêe) ns g it is emphaticalty styled in the coteries of Paris."* «"aiempir* For expressions of the opinions and feelmgs of French politicians on the subject of universal monarchy, rcference is to be had to Rousseau's Project of a perpetuai Peace, Montesquieu's Spirit of La ws, Mably's Observations on the Romans, and the, great military statesman, Folard, who thus writes on Polybius:—"One may see, by ali that has been advanced on the policy of the Ro- mans, that the idea of universal monarchy is no illusion; they saw themselves masters of the world in a very little time; that is to say, when they contemplated the rendering tliemselves powerful by sea, for, without that ali their policy would havc availed them nothing: I know not even if they could havc maintainetl themselves by.land. Let this be well considered amongst ns. This policy is most worthy of our praises, and of being imitated by warlike and ambitious princes, furnished with an army well equipped and discipHned; with these much may be attained. I admire the Romans in every thing; for, the crime of which they are aceused, of having paved the way to universal monarchy by many unjust wars, might furnish ample matter of píaise to a prince who • Edinburgh Rcv. vol. xiii, No. 26. 12 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAZN AND PORTUGAL.

BôOKT. should undertake a similar design with the samc w-v~^ mcans and necessary ineasures. They accuse Síheme of uni. " •«•síi.eropire. Louis XIV. of having aspired to universal monar-» chy, and I praise htm: this would have infallibly succeeded if he had always had at thc head of his armies some of those men who seem born to be at once the terror and admiration of the world.

With such aids3 it might be very easily proved, he would, without difficulty, haye made the conquest of allEurope." » '

Thepeninsuia. Such being, as may almost be said, without echoing the liomage of slavery, the spkndid des- tinies of Napoleon, it was to be expected that he,. before whom the proudest nations had weakly succumbed, should look particularly to those which tottered beneath thc weight of their own corrupt governinents and miserable poliey for the aggrandisement of his enipire : it became no less the object of Great Britain to prevent that aggrandisement. The west of Europe had, in course, long attracted the attcntion of the usurper, in the same manner with the other kingdoms which he had subjugated, though not entirely appropriated to himself. Whatever the feebleness of those go» vernments, it sunk before that of the península of Spain and Portugal, lost in a slavish and corrupt POLICY OF THE VAB. 13 jndolence, in which cvery patriotic feeling, and *™*t]' almost ali the energies of a brave and sensible, £^£^ an enthusiastic, and a persevering, people, were ab- j^£totbe sorbed.* There was, however, another important motive for the usurpation of Spain, wliich might regard the safety of the new dynasty of France, the reigning family being of the hoitse of Bour- bon, and the relations of Portugal with England were not to be endured. Various were the forms in which this policy was arrayed, as circumstances demanded or expediency dictated; indeed, if even it were necessary to the present work, the time is not yet arrived when a clear view can be obtained of the transactior.s of this extraordinary period. The treaty concluded with the emperor of Rússia, at Tilsit, in 1807, relieved Btionaparte from his apprehensions respecting the continent in a sufficient degree to enable him to turn his attention to this part of his project of universal empire, which he seems to have deemed it necessary to treat with the utmost cunning of policy. A very peculiar determination of the courts of Lisbon and Madrid seems to have facilitated the conquestof their respectivc countries, and however it may have been influenced by foreign policy, marked in both a striking conviction of the weak-

• See chapter the second, also the exposition relative to the nsurpation of therainister Don Pedro Cevallos, &c. 14 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

1 ness CHÍI^I. ' °f t^eir states, and their resources politicai ^ZciX^f anc* domestic:—this is the plan adopted by the brgardjothe regency of Portugal, of retiringfrora theEuropeau dominions to the Brazils, and tliat on which the royal fainily of Spain had nearly determined with respect to México, instead of calling on the pby- sical energies of their people to resist so unprincipled an invasion.

_ . Í3. Be this as it may, Spain. which, from the pe- Eraigration of J r C d« Portugufie riod of its defection from the general coalition of the European powers against France in 1796, had been entirely submissive to the various rulers of that country, sent the flower of her armies tá fight its battles; suffered the loss of fleets, colo-' nies, and commerce, in its cause; and even the power of certain communication with her transat- lantic possessions, from which she derived her chief revenue, had become completely dependent on France. The project of a partition, which had too often oceurred in the policy of modern Europe,* was a-

• That of Poland, for instance, so justly execrated; that of* France supposed to have been eonccived by the first coalitions, which produced the war of the French revolution. Buonaparte had already suífered the emperor of Rússia to conteraplate In bis allianee a partition of Turkey, and some other parts of Europe;. and it is even said (and not iraprobably) that he proposed to Great Britain herseif to divide the whole wnrld with France! POLICY OF THE WÁlt. lá

B K 1- aufficient lure to a government which could not, c°fp K in any case, refuse it, but which, when Portugal ^^^^ (affected to be deemed an English province) was erágratíon. the object, notwithstanding every tie of family and friendship, offered maritime opportunitíes that were irresistible. A treaty to this effect was accordingly signed at Fontainbleau,by Don Eugénio Isquierdo and Marshal Duroc. A Frendi army was quickly collected on the northem frontier of Spain; thepeople were flattered by their government with defence from thehos- tileBritish, the reduction of Gibraltar, andeveninva- sion of Africa. The French entered Spain, were joined by Spanish troops, according to the treaty, and proceeded to Portugal. The Spanish governor of Badajos inquired of the marquis d'Alor- no, comnianding at Elvas, if the Gallo-Spanish army would be received as friends or enemies. " We are unable," answered the marquis, " to entertain you as friends or resist you as enemies.** The entrance of the French troops into Portu- gal was not known at Lisbon till their advanced guard arrived at Abrantes. It was never conceived that they would not pursue the course of theTagus; to traversewith an army the mountains, of Beira, in winter, was deemed impossible. Buonaparte liad, however, on concluding the treaty of Tilsit, demanded of the court of Lisbon, 16 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

1 unc er tne ^HÍÍ?! ' ^ threat of war, to shut the ports of Por- ^p^**^ tugal against the English; to detain ali English- emigrHtion. men rcsiding in Portugal; and confiscate ali En- glish property; and, by way of decisive example, instantly detained ali Portuguese merchant-ships m the ports of France. Of the difficulty of such a situation, under the relations of England with Portugal, nothing need be said; a refnsal, necessary to the semblance of honour, was given to the two last demands, so contrary to the principies of publíc law; and the court began to prepare for securing its retreat to the Portuguese dominions in South America. After adopting such measures as should best tes* tifyhis highness's regard for the British government, consístently with his royal desire to preserve, at any rate, his own government in Portugal,* and the vaccillations consequent upon so painful a 1807. state, on November 29, the Portuguese fleet set sail from the Tagus, having on board the Pr ince of Brazil and the whole of the Royal Family, with a suite of friends, counsellors, servants, and fol- lowers, beyond what might bave been expected. The government was left in the hands of the regeney, at the head of which had hitberto been the prince regent. • Manifesto of the court of Portugal, at Rio'Janeiro, &e. Ma/ 1, 180S. POLICY OF THE WAO. ir BOOK I. Lord Strangford, the British ambassador to this CHAP- I. court, undertook that the British squadron be- p^p;^. fore tlie Tagus, commanded by Sir Sydney Smitli, g»*». on board of which himself had retired, should protect their retreat and voyage to the Brazils.* Scarcely had the Portuguesa fleet left the Ta- gus, when the Frendi, with thcir Spanish auxiliaries, appeared on the liills above Lisbon, under the command of general Junot, who had formerly residedfor several years, as ambassador, at the court of Portugal. They made the greatest profcssions for the people, yet practised the strongest restrictions; dis- arming them, prohibiting their assemblies, and planting cannoii in ali the public places.

France was now in possession of the wholc of Jjyj^0^ Portugal, and the reserve of the troops intended «mmem. to occupy it, which had approached and entered Spain, being suífered to spread themselves through the country, during the various negotiations, contrived to amuse the Spanish court for a marriage between the heir-apparent of Spain and a priucess of the family of Buonaparte, and various projects,

* for the necessary Information on this subject, the reader is referred to a sketch of the causes and consequences of the late emigration to the Brazils, by Mr. Rylance j Linghara/s Vin- dica; Lusitânia;, &c. &c vot. I. C Í8 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAItf AND PORTUGAL.

concerted with the several individuais at the ex-

Usurpation of pensc of the others; several important Spanish Spain. posts were also in possession of the French army. At this time Isquicrdo arríved from Paris; and, at the royal palace of Aranjucz, tiventy-three milcs southward of Madrid, had an intervicw with the favourite and min is ter Godoy, and with the king and quecn. Their majesties immediately evineed à disposition to quit the península, and retire to Mcxieo. A mode whích, like that of the Portu- guese emigration to the Brazils, is supposed by some to have originated ín the influence of Buo- ha parte, for the purposcof ridding himself of these sovereigns in Europe. Tl)is rumoured abandonment of their eountry produced a popular eommotion, whíeh compelled a disavowal of such an intention upou tlie part of their majesties, anda seisure of their favourite, the Prince of Peãce, as well as Iiis treasures. They, however, immediately put in practiee the unexpected resolution of abdieatitig tlie erown in favour of Perdinand, their son and heir, prineê of the Astú- rias. Tliis prince adopted counsellors, favourable to the English nation, aniong whom was the Duke dei Infantado, who became prcsidentof the grand eouneil of Castile, &c. - It is not to tlie purpose of this brief sketeh to enter into the various springs and ineidents of this abdication; they are, however, minutely, if not POLICY OF THE WAU. 19 faithfully, deseribed by Dou Pedro Cevallos, who BOOK L eontinued, 011 ali oceasions, to have au opportunity v«*-v—^ Usurpaúou of of recortling them.* spain. There is, however, something ludicrous, as lias been observed by a writer in the Edinburgh Re- vi ew, in the story whieh Dou Pedro tells, of the free and affectionate resignation of the unfortunatc monarch, whom he represents, like some senti- mental old gentleman in a German eomedy, taking his elderly consort by the hand, and addressing her in tliese touehing words :—" Maria Louisa, we will retire to one of the provinces, where we will pass our days in tranquillity ; and Perdi nand, who is a yoiing man, will take upon himself the burden of tlie government." When the nature of the attachment, so extraordinarily evinced by the queen towards the prinee of peace, Godoy,f is eónsidered, it may be well observed by the same writer, that tlie innoeenee of the galleries niight, perhaps, tole; rate ti lis trait of Bucolie sublimity; but there is 119 pit in Europe that would eudure it eveu in a play. The king and queen were in eoursc invited to

* Exposition of lhe Practices and Machinations which led to lhe asurpalion of the crown of Spain, and lhe means adopted by the French to carry it into execution. f See her Letters to the French Commandant, for his safety, as inserted in the Moniteur, January Si, 1810; also Edin, Rev. TOI. xiii. No. 25. 20 CAMPAIGNS IN SVAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BcnA°pKrL trance, but declined that step, not because they

TV*"Y"*r' had assumed new spirít in their affairs, but be- L íurpatiOQ of * spain. cause jt jjj not sujt tjie viewg 0f the French, who had flattered the Spanish people with hopes of reform, to release Godoy, who was the object of their indignation. Buonaparte having previously ordercd his brother-in-law, general Murat, now prince, and grand duke of Berg, to march with his army towards Madrid, lie advaneed, and such was the tutelage of the new sovereign, now Ferdinand VII. that hc sent deputations to meet him, and anxiously prepared for him suitable apartments in the royal palace. In return Murat evinced delicacy in acknow- ledgíng his royal host, and deference to the abdi- cated king and queen; ali, however, resolvcd itself into inducements to him, first to send his brother Carlos and then to set out him self, for the purpose of recciving, with due respect, the emperor Napoleon, who was expected to visit the Spanish capital. Th is was aceeded to; and, in a manner that resemblcs rather the sim pie stories of our infaney, the monarch of agreat, tliough fallen, empire, was seduced, step by step, beyond his own Matci.,1808. frontier, into France. His brother Carlos, and a considerable suite, accompanied him. It be carne now, to rid him self of the king and POLICF OF THE WAR. * 21

B C 1 qneen, the poliey of Buonaparte, to gratífy theni C°?P? 1. ' by the release of Godcy, and he was accordingly y^^XT* withdrawn to Bayonne, whither they followcd him, spab* and where they were rcceived in due pomp by Ferdinand, bis brotlier Carlos, and ali the Spa- niards tbere. Thcir Imperial majesties, Napoleon and Josephine, visited them. The queen of Etru- ria, with her infant son, soon followcd. The people beheld, with occasional bursts of emotion, these events, without joiningin themfar- ther than as the connexions of servitude dictated; From tliis moment Spain was in a state of revolution. The conflicting circumstances whieh followed the appointment of the grand diike of Berg (Mu- ral) to the governorship-general of Spain, and presidency of the supremejunta, or chief council of state, the dreadful domestic details of the royal family, in theír Communications witli the French emperor, relate only to politicai history, as does also theoffer of a kingdom in Tuscany to Ferdinand VIL aud the transfer of the kingdom to Joseph, the brother of Napoleon Buonaparte. It is sufiicient here to add, that the people did not participate, and that there were found some of the grandees who did not desert theír antient prineiples of honour and patriotism. It now remains only to see how these circum- 22 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AKD PORTUGAL.

stanees apply to Great Britain in hermilitary \>o* liey, whieli is the subject of the follôwing pages, Usurpation pf Spaia. an(] what were the laudable motives for the present honourable employment of a British force in the península of Spain and Portugal.

$5. MUiiary poiicy The military policy of Great Britain, which ofCrcatBriíam. lias too long continuei, under a new order of things, the system adapled only to its relations with Europe, as they existed a eentury ago, is about to change; and most neeessarily so, since it coulri no longer be expeeted to cftect any purpose of utility, any more than theunwieldy weapons of antient warfare çould be sueeessfully opposed to the modem improvements in a mis. In deseribing the nature and probable effects of this neeessary ehange, as far as it may be eonsist- ent with the brevity of the present introduetion, referenee will be had to some reeent authorities, which are undcrstood to speak the sentiments of most enlightened meu on the subject; avoiding, at the same time, such statements as are most strongly disputed, or are ehiefly charaeterísed by the abruptions of change; and qualifying the whole by sueh auxiliary observatíons as oceur. The balance of Europe, no longer capable of preservatinn by núserable makeweights of governments; and the fervour of the Freneh revolution, POLICY OF TIIE WAIl. 33

B K r subsided ioto a despotic continental empire, aim- C°°P * ing at universal cooquest, impeçlecl only by the Jf^T^' power and resources of Britain; a martial policy of oíGnwtBritaiii. increased vigour and actirity in our govcrnment becomes necessary to the salvatíon of Europe, and, in alJ probability, the peace of the world.

From a cora parati ve view of the force and re- rointstobe sources of the French and British Empires. one of ,wcenIiatious« our most popular modera writers on the subject Compari*»» of ímcls cause ror objecting, equally, to the extremes of exultation and despondeney in the present state of Great Britain. A vigorous war of aggression wili, probably, be necessary to her preservation, and ia this the cnemy must not be despised. In the principal objects by which the resources s»at"«» of uwv In regara to population, the proportion against popuiatioa. us appears to be more than five to one. It is thus estimated: France, withín its present granel natural boundaries of the Rhine, the Alps, the Mediterrauean

• For more enlarged views aod extensive details on the subject, the reader is referred to Edín. Rev. vol. viii. 12, 13, &c. Pasley's Essay on the Military Policy and Inslitutions of the British Empire.—Leckie's Historical Survey of the Forcign Fo- liey of Great Britain.—Life of Lord Nelson, by M'Arthur anJ Clarke, &c—Observatiom of a Vetcran, 1811. 24 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. seSj tbe Pyrenees, and the Occan, iscompnted to v-^~v~^ contain . . , / 32 millions of souls. Military policy of Great Britain. Spãltl and Portugal . . . 12f Switzerland 2

Italy% exclusive of Sar- dinia and Sicily 11 \ Hollandj in its rcdnced state, not quite 2 Total, forming a state compact, and well nnited by geographical position, of—- nearly 60 millions of people. Great Britain contains about 1]

49 If to the Frenchempire be added the Danish dominions 2 And such parts of Ger- many as are in reality, if not nominally, subjecl to Buonaparte 15 it will yield a sum total of population, under the dominion or irresistible influence of France, of nearly 77 millions of people. If to the forroer estimate of II millions for Great Britain, we add for Ircland 4 the same proportion continues — 15 POLICY OF THE WAR. 25

The addition of lhe population of the whole of *™**' the Mediterranean and Northern Islands, ifsuch j^^^ a heterogeneons mass should ever be adcled by °íGrcat Brita» conquest, would give not quite six millions more.

The disposable revenue of France, in the yet Revame. unsettled state of its finance, may be taken in the most favourable view to this country as two to one; but the value of money is so much greater there, that wit-h the same means much more may beefTected. Our naval and military establishments are the most expensive in the world: thirty thousand continental troops may be maintained at less expense than twenty thousand Britfth. Tlie disproportion of revenue, thus in favour of the enemy, must be expected to increase. For ali articles, many of which in other countries are either free or moderately assessed, are liere bur- thened with high duties, and there can scarcely be a doubt but that an extension of a similar system to France and the other countries composing the ernpire of Buonaparte would considerably augment their present revenue: nor can it be supposed that the countries conquered by France would not be happy by an increase of taxes to purchase an exemption from their op- pressive contributions, and the burden of feeding and clotliing the Frendi avmies. The superior ease of raisiug taxes in a free country, where they are 26 CAMPAIGKS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

ouly imposcd by voluntary conscnt of the.representatives of tlie people, though arivantagcous, Militar^ polícj ... . , li!» •fGrcatBmain. wili not be expected to retncdy the disproportion.

Agricuiturai. *T;he sourccs 0f agrícultural revenue, which, even under the old monarchy of Fiauce, always excecded that of Great Britain, it is supposed may, in process of time, become as superior as its population. The agrícultural systcm is dcclared, by Smith,* to be at least the íiearestapproximation to the truth that has been published in his time.

Commerciai. The sources of commerciai revenue, on the contrary so highly in ourfavour, mnst, nevertheless, be allowed to depenei greatly upon the interest, and even caprice, of other nations. It has nothing like permanence in its nature; beeause, though commerciai ingenuity may diseover new vents and concentrate many advantages in Bri- tain, yet no onc wili say that it is impossible thesc should cease. Deuied raw materiais from the -countries from which we derive them, and our manufactures of them rejected, and com mercê must droop. Buonaparte at least has shut ali the

* In his cclcbrated work on the Wealth of Nations, which, though it must always bc considered the basis of almost every other Ircatise on the subject, such is the inercased knowledgc in politicai economy of late years that a commentary is very raucb required. I'OLICY OF THE WAR. ' 27 ports of thc Frcnch empire, and of the Jesser B^[JK L statcs under his infíuenee. Denmark, the Levant, v-^v^^ Militar; policj Rússia, have done the same, and Ameriea appears ofGreatBritain. about to follow. The trade vhich may continue with distant countries is less beneficiai than that with neighbouring states, even where the same capital may be cmployed. In the event of pcace, even the superiority of our manufactures may cease : the price of labour is higher at present than clsewherc ; improvements cannot remain secret forever; our skill and ingenuity can be scarcely supposed quite peculiar; nor is our superiority of capital founded ou any thing inherent in the nature or constitution of the country.* Thns then it is impossible not to apprehend that therevenue of Francernay not execed thatofGreat Britain, almost equally with its population.

The present means of rearing seamen, so deci- Meaniofnísing sciimen. dedly in our favour, will, at least, be mu eh decreased on a peacc. For, if even a free vent were allowed to our wares in France, its obvious policy •must be to depress our navigation, and diminish the means of inereasing our seamen, by receiving 'them only in continental vessels, navigated by continental seamen. The Navigation-Act of Eng-

Spcnce's Britain Independent of Commcrcc, tiith tlie severa! answers to that work, may be here consulted with utilitv and pieasure. 2S CAMPAIGNS 12Í SPAI2Í AND PORTUGAL.

Bc°?rKiL ^an^» ky similar means, crippled the navy of the MiC/7oi^ Dutcll> and> ti]1 Buonaparte put a stop to it, the »fGre«Briuin. continent was simikrly supplied with our .manufactures during thelast war. These pointshave not escaped the French writers on politicai economy.

Energy of c«- jn t]ie encrgy 0f ]]er exccutive government, cutive govcru- °«7 ° * mcutfc France lias, at present, the advantage o ver that of Great Britain. The conduct of parliamentary aíFairs, the necessary management of parties in the senate, financial and oratorícal talents, and an acquaint- ance with doinestic afTaírs, have a preference over skill in warlike policy, in the distinctions and acl- vantages of the state in Great Britain; while it is prccisely the reverse in France. A great part of the time and judgement of his majesty's ministers is oecupied in parliamentary confliets; parliamentary interest, therefore, must often guide our appointments, hoth diplomatic and military. Not so with Buonaparte; he bas no parties to manage, and ís left free in his choice of SDCII talents as best serve bis objects; but bc has to watch over the state of public opinion in France, and to model his operations accordingly. And, in proportíon to his oceupation in this respect, his advantages in point of energy are weakened. These circLimstances of the despotism of Francç and the freedom of England have, howevcr, little to do \vith the superiority of the one by land, or POLICY OF THE VAR. 29

) c L the otíier by sea; for the same means which *°J rj I# render France powerful by land can also render ^^^7 her powerful by sea; and Britain, so all-powerful in ofCreatum^.. her navy, may become equally invincible by land. War, to be successful,' must be condueted on the same principies by land and sea, and requires the same talcnts and qualities in the agents, from the cómmanders-in-chief down to the soldiers or seamen of an army or navy. The freedom of the British constitution, may, Superiorityof British freedom nevertheless, in time, give to its executive go- wherever a can vernment a greater vigour than that of France, j«u. since a' free government, acting upon wise principies, politicai or military, always preserves a permanent and medium degree of vigonr, which often, in criticai times, increases in proportion to the danger; while despotism always acts in extremes; and though, in the hands of a wise, virtuous, and warlike, prince, it may often produce happiness to the governed, and is in of- fensive war most vigorous, yet, under a prince of wcak or indolcnt character, it tends only to break the spirit and degrade the character of a nation, and is impotent and contemptible in war: but if we hope for safety we must look for it in our valour and wisdom alone, and not in the pos- sibility of future cowardice and folly on the part of our adversaries. Nor will, it is feared, that glorious patriotism, 30 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL,

Bca*p.i." whieh has evinced itself so strongly on various oc- M!27% casions, when callecl for th hy the threat òf inva- tfGrcatBntaio. S«0J^ an(j anj1Tmte(] the COimtry at various periods, be alone sufficient, as it is sometimçs vaunted ta meet the present superiority of the energies of France over those of Great Britain. spirjt and pa- The enthusiasm of patrlotism cannot be kept in triotism of the pcopic not ai. a perpetuai state of exaltation. It is to be ex- ways effccUvc. * cited only by some striking impulse that comes home not only to the head but the heart, and, as it were, to the eyes of men. The threat of invasion, long delayed, may become a mere bravado; and a people, ignorant of the nature of warlikc operations, of what can be done, and cannot be done, by a country partly ovcr-run by lios tile armies, under various prejudices, preferring imperfect combinatíons of men to a regular military force, may learn too late the necessity of well-organised, well-disciplined, armies, and that our being the freest and most patriotic nation upon earth cannot enable us ali at once to raise an army any more than a flcet, to build strong and well-provided fortresses, create experienced coinmanders, or prevent invasion. The inefficiency of home- bred stationary troops has been too often proved to require illustratíon, and history furnishes su£ ficient lessons of one state constantly over-pow- ering another, not unhappily by superior freedom. fOLICY OF THE WAR. 31 vírtue, and patriotism, but by having more nu- BOOKI. tncrous. braver, better organísed, and better com- ^-*-Y~*^ ' b l Militar; pohcj manded, armies, with a more vigorous system of ofGteatBntaiu. mar ti ai policy, and a better mode of repairing disasters in war. Deceived by the glowing pietures of Greeían and Roman patriotism, we forget that in Greecc and Rome ali the eitizens were enured to ali the rigour and discipline of arms, and praerised in war • in eontemplating the sueeess of North America, we forget the feeble and temporising half mcasures of the British government, the small force sent thithcr, its distanee from supplies, and the inactivity of our commanders, as well as the auxiliary regular force which strengthened the American army. The sudden suecess of the Frcnch in repelling the eombination formed against them astonishes us; but we forget that France had, at the eommencement of the revolutionary war, a large regular army, and an almost impenetrable frontier, strongly fortified by art and nature, as well as that the greatest military suecesses of the French have taken place sinee they lost even the shadow and hopes of freecíom. Europe ofTers many in- stanees. The sueecssful straggles of the heroism of Frederic of Prússia, against an immense superior force, took place while Trenck was im- ttiured in his dungeons; and the same troops again 32 CAMPA1GNS IJÍ SPAlN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. were díspersed by Buonaparte at Jena, without v-#-v-*^> scarcely a shadow of resistence. Eritbusiasm, ofGreatiiritaín. however, is always a usetul aid, and will powerfully contribute to the success of mcasnres wisely planned. Upon tliis comparative view, thcn,' it would appear that there are not grounds for that exultation with which we look down upon our enemies in the pride of our naval force alone, since, in ali the means which produce that confidence, the encmy is found superior, whenever circumstances shall admit of their being successfully used;—so successfully as tbey were even in the reign of Lonis XIV. or when, in 1780, the miuisters declared that it was impossible for' Great Britain alone to oppose an cqiíal nbmbcr of ships to the whole united force of the house of Bourbon.

Causes of tHs The colonial system, which has been so eagerly, tSíityof there- and, as far as their âcquisition, itrnust be admitted source» of Bri- . j« _ r\ • • \. •' tal». successhmy, fnllowed by Great lintain, nas contn- buted notalittle to the balance against us. ' '

Coioniesíoja- Distant and petty colonies, indiscriminately ac- (IOUI. quired, weaken the strength of a state. Their charges, troops, and fortification, are a dead burden, and a subtraction from its disposable force. It is-to these we ma/ grèatly ascribe our impoteney POLICY OF TIIE WAR. 33 in ali the grand objects of warfare, not connected with maritime power; disappointment in ali our 1 expeditions, beyond the attack of an island; want ne»forCcio»iM. of confídence on the part of our allies, and some contempt ou that of our enemies. And yet whenever the íleets of France shall be able again, as we must expect they will, to cope with the navy of Britain, much that we have been so painfully ac- quiringmust, in ali probability, fali intothehands of the enemy, if lie think tbem worth capture, who can sparc infinitely more troops for their retention.

But there are colonies by which. a nation may Colonies to t* " __ deíired. gain in strength and resources, and which would remedy, in a certain degree, the evils of our colonial policy; such are large, fertile, and populous, ultra-marine possessious or islands, which can afford a revenue more than sufficient for paying the expensos of their, civil govemment, and of their garrisons,, both in peace and war; and which, by.their population, can matcrially assist in manning the íleets and recruiting the armies of the mother country. Such our North-American colonies .would have been, such our East-Indian possessions are, and Egypt Egypt. would become, under an equitable governineot, leaving the natives no ^desirc for a,change of masters, aud proper inilitary regulations. Such VOL. r. D 34 CAÃÍPAIGNS IN SPAI2Í AND PORTUGAL.

are CUAP. i.' their intrínsic strength and resources, that oX!nu£tote ^ieir conquest would be an enterprize of greatha-

deiúcd. zar(j and difficulty to an enemy. This is proved •by the expulsion of the French from North-Ame- rica, in the seven-years war, by the immense native force created in índia; the failure of the French, in Egypt, is to be chiefly attribntcd to the loss of their fleet, and want of money, which, of course, impeded their suppUes, and paralized • their efForts in a great degree.

Síciíjr. As a colony, if wisely administered, Sicily would add to the military strength of any powcr posses - sing it. It lias under the present system swallowed up fiftecn thousand cxcellent troops eithcr Brítish or in Brítish pay, in addition to a Brítish subsidy capable of supporting ten thousand more troops, making a diminution of our disposable force of 25,000 men, a diminution that no advantage of our commerce and manufactures can possibly compen- sa te. Sicily, the granary of the Roman em pire, might furnish a revenue of more than a million to its govemincnt; has strong fortresses and military positions, excellent harbours and roadsteads, &c. and has never thrived but under a foreign government. f^íh^d010* Of ali kinds of em pires of equal resources, a co- íodif^ire?* lonial and insular empire is generally the weakesU POLTCY OF T1IE WAR. 35'

B L The superiority, however, in point of strength even £?P^K ofanincreasing continental power cannot hold good ^Jjjj^J*^ in ali cases, beyond a certain extent . Interposing coloai*1 c,DPirc* chains of monnrains, forests, or deserts, form equal obstacles in the one to the sea in the other. The 1™^^ u to population of strength of an empire of any kind will be greater ÕfaiuSfSuSd*- or less in proportion to the facility with which its intheworid- sevcral parts can aíford cach other mutual assistance when attacked; and to the difficulty which an enemy may find in supplying and snpportinghis invading force, as the length of mareb, and diíticul* ties of movement and subsistence in war by land, and upon length of voyage by sea, Power founded on an accumulation of islands, however, possesses the weakness of both in proportion to the multipli- city of its component parts; and the length of voyage between cach of them and the great ísland which forms the mother country..

The addition to Great Britain of ali the islands she could obtaín would not increase her population six millions; those of the Mediterranean do not Medítemmean island». exceed three and a quarter, according to the best coinputation : «&"<%, supposed to contain . . 1,500,000 people Sardlnia 456,990 Cónica 166,813 Balearic islands . '. 167,000 D2 36 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Malta anã Gozo, about . . , 80,000 Corfu 70,000 Estimate of a cdonial empire. Cefalonia 70,000 "' • Leucadia, or Santa Maura . . 6,000 Ithaca 3,000 Crete 300,000 Cyprus, about 75,000 Seio, about 85,000 i Rhodes 30,000 Sajitorin ' 10,000 The balance supplied by the remainder, of which the accounts are doubtful.

Baitic isUnds. , The islands of the Baltic, including Iccland and the Ferroes, yield scarcely 700,000: Danish islands, in the Baltic . '. 497,252 people Cronstadt, (chiefly mariners} . . 60,000 Oeland 8,000 Aland ... * 5,000 Iceland 50,000 Ferro isles 5,000 The remainder doubtful.

West-India The West Indies may be estimated at one million lilaods. and three-quarters, of which French St. Domingo 520,000 Cuba \ ^ 300,000 Jamaica, about _á00,000 POLICY OF THE WAfU '37 Porto Rico . 10,000 Grenada 39,493 ' Estiraste of a St. ChríStOphefS 30,300 eokmíal empire. Nevis ' 10,600 Antigua . . . 40,398 Tortola 10,200" Marúniqut 88,870 Guadaloupe 101,971 Barbadoes ' 79,120 And of thcse it is to be reeollected the great body is composed of slaves, rendering weak in defence a country, otherwise strong, as under a natíve government, or a foreign one to which they were at- taclicd. The resources of such an insular dominion, howcver wcll organized, would do Httle towards opposing the power and resources of a continental empire with France at its head.

MilitaryJ rpurposesr onlyJ can warrant the occupa-r Coioníe» ««**. , m sary for railitarj tion of such colonies; thcir possessing safe and «tationa. commodious shelter for our fleets, and a convenient place of arms for the assembly of our ínilitary ex- pedi tions. Thus, if we had to choosen a naval station in the Mediterranean, Malta and Minorca,amongst others, Malta.—Mi. might present themselves: these have excellent n harbours and doek-yards, with every requisite but 33 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. dry docks: but a fleet caunot get out of Mahon v--*~*~?-> harbour with a south-east, jior out of thc port of Eeiimate of a colonial wpire. IMalta with a north-east, wind. Arsachina Bay, ArwchinaBay. with the rest of the ancliorage between the coast SardiDia. of Sardinia and the Magdalen islands, in the straits

StraitsofBo- 0f Bonifacia, is superior to either. Ships may nifacia. * , thence put to sea in. ali winds. It would be the best situation for a. fleet watching Carthagena or Toulon. Malta and some others might be preferred towards the Levant. Malta can hardly be reduced but by famine. Minorca is now defenceless, ex- c-peMoia. ccpt the fine position of Cape Mola, on the eastern extremity of the entrance of the harbour, for a fortress, which would incur great expense. Malta has no natural position superior to Cape Mola.— Of two stations, that which is fortified is preferable, notwithstanding the delay of a siege, or even blockade. If Sardinia were hostile, thc fortification of a few points would be necessary, both on the main land and the Magdalen Islands, but the fertility of that great and fertilc island would amply contribute to the expense. Lampedosa, rendered important by discussions respecting it, is completely insignificant.

Copenhagen. Jn the north, Copenbagen and Cronstadtare necessary to the preservation of naval pawer. Co- ' penhagen is fertile, with half a million of industri- TOhíCY OF THE WAR. 39 ous and warlike people. It would hc no burthcn, and therefore entirely preferable to Cronstadt, which has no resources. There are many advahtages also for its tenability : our naval supcriority would insure its easy retention.

Walcberen, in possession of tbe British, would Waicb««j. deprive the French in a great measurc of the navigation of tbe Scheldt.

Possessions of tbis kind, notwithstanding their Bj-^r jj *• weakness, baving been obtained, sbouldnot be bas- ^S>^ tily resigned while our naval superiority will permit ^ÍSpSÍíU us to retain them at so cbeap a rate. They are J'v^5„ maitary not, however, the proper objects or our nuuiaiy Conccntration, , li' i *. as far as e*pe- policv, which, to be emcient, must be uirecteci to no- dicot. of our i* i A , military force; thins: less than the complete dismembermentor tlie «ndtheappii- ° • i ' 1 • 1 1 cation of that continental empire of France, without wbich there akiu and w veiy,colkctivetyt cannot it appearsrr be any security or permanence in wtuchhuin ■* " m small divisions peace. Our ereat naval victories, all-glonous m camedthejdoiy 1 ° w ^ ofthe British war. do nat increase tbe resources on wbich naval ara» imo ev«y ' part ol t lie power is founded. With ali its brilliancy our sys- ^JJj.^*e tem has added little to our power, while that of j^^i^ Franee has constantly increased her resources in a. degree that tbreatens us with a probability that we may, in process of time, become a sacrifice tu hei gigantic power. It is no doubt a gratifying feeling wbich is so 40 CAJ1TAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK r. often- expressed, that we should not have been ■***v*^ stained with the enormities whích have marked ittítnedy of politicai«víisin French usurpation ; but a continuance of the sys- a vigorouvigorous mi- * Jitary policj. tem that has been described lias extended the existence of the conduct which gives rise to this feeling ; and, though it is not to be recommended thatsuch condnct should be imitated by Great Bri- tam, or that her sword be ever stained by the vio- lation of social order in unoffending nations; it becomes evidently necessary that her martial policy should assume the same energy which characterizes thatof France;—that, whilemen applaud the cause in which we are engaged, they may not charge us with destroying it by our imbeciíity.

Legitíraate The principal objects of this invigorated policy jneans of in- ercasing our power. would seem to be the increase of our power, by 1 the conquests of snch possessions as will add to our strength and resources, and to give effectual aid to our allies, particularly such nations as may be 1 disposed to take up arms for their independence against the usurpation of France. The military policy, which, under other circumstances, was sufficiently weli adapted, is no longer suited to the present state of the world. It has become inadequate to any grand or permanent object, and even to the preservation ofthose favourite POLICY OF THE WAR. 41

objects for wliich it has been repressed,—our ^^J' - v ,, coinmcrce, manufactures, and naval superiority. R *""d '"^''> Our grand object at present is to impede tbe po>iiicaíevH»in ° *> * * a vigorous nu- consolidation of that great continental empire litary p°Kcy« which threatens our destruction; and tbe ineans, it is conceived, inay be obtained by conducting our onerations by land on the same wise and vigorous Adoptiomofthe lame energy bj system which has rendered us invincible by sea. i fendas «a. t

■ \ Defective military institutions, erroneous treat- Buo*, ment of tbe natives of a countrv which is tbe seat of .war, or a mistaken policy in rcgard to othêr povvers which are either neutral, or, at least, not principal, in the quarrel, form interesting causes of our failure in war. • An army may fail for want of discipline, being badly organised in some of its parts, a general want of sciencc in its officers, or from having at its 'head a commander-in-chief destitute of military talents and of enterprise. - , Tbe disasters arising from the two last-mentioned causes may be avoided by endeavouriug to makc and.keep tbe people of cvery country which you enter, as conqueror or ally, your friends; by decli- ■ ning the alliance of statcs whosc friendship in war is likely to be more fatal than their enmity; to respect, in ali cases, the law of nations, avoiding ait 42 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND P0KTUGAL.

BOOK i. jntriguing and a timid policy. The character of CIIAF. I no two nations being exactly alike, fixed rules of Conductto- °. J ward foreign conduct for ali countries can never be made. countriM to be «daptcd totheír If the nobility of a country are active and high- character. v J ° spirited, make a strong interest amongst them, for they will naturally lead the great body of the peo- Pnncip!«of pie, by whom they will be beloved and respected. ptomwy.' But if, as in ttiost arbitrary, or at least despotic, governments, tlie rich and noble are of a depraved, cffeminate, and tyrannical, character, when their country becomes a seat of war, their authority is at end. No fear of offending them must impede the conciliation of the rest of the nation ; neither must the views of the people be confounded with the populace. Obedience to magistrates must be preserved; and no arms must be entrusted into the hands of any body of men, without appointing proper officers to lead them, either from our own army or the gentry of the country in its interest: a mere armed rabblc will becoine robbers and mur- derers, and render the cause odious. If a country cannot be conciliated, more numerous armies must be employed ; and, when force has quelled, kindness must conciliate, them. The real good, and not the particular feelings of the people, must be studicd; affection thus gained is permanentj flattering attentions may, nevertheless, be used. POLICY OF THE WAR. 43

When allies are tinis conciliated, thirty or forty *™*i thousand menmay be equally adequate to conqucst W^. with an hundred thousand. ;££* d*10- Partíal change, and not Tevolution, is lhe wisest and safest policy for a government wishing to establisli itself in thehcarts of foreign subjects: by a contrary policy we lost Corsica. We havc always becn too sparing of our manifestoes, proclamations, and addresses, to the natives of foreign countries. We sometimes hope to elicit the favour of uncommercial nations by tbe oífer of comniercial advantages which would ruin the mo nopolies of the few, and are suspected of delusion and selfislmess. We must not judge of other countries by ourselves; our fear of oftending the national pride and other higli fectings which ourselves possess, in others, where they do not exist, sometimes operates to their injury in other respects, or impresses thcin with an idea of our own imbecility.

Nogreatpower, in the situation of Great Britain, *™£y^ was ever saved by coalitions. We must trust to d^tftirwt our own arms, and aspire to be as strong in Europe by land as sea. We ought, if France herself be unassailable, to - conquer in Holland, in the Netherlands, and ia the north of Germany, and the nearcr home we 44 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. .33ooKl can act the better: we must watch opportunities CHAP. I. * * *v-*^v-,*to^ of acting with constant energy upon plans pre- ÊEfrkicDtem*ioymentofthe viously. digested: -. . we must assist. our aluesn* when*i_ titish arroy. „ , , we cannot conquer ror ourselves : we must attack islands when it may not appear convenient to :attack the continent.

PoGcyofwar- In war between two great nations, a third liie nations. power can have no other than an armed neutrahty. All.warlike nations, becoming superior, alíow little independent kingdoms and commohwealths to exist around them, and even to increase them by advantages gained from a rival: these states are the vassals of the others, but they are ren- •dered respectable by a nominal independence, and relieve their masters from the burthen of their civil govemment. Such, as an individual, was Holland, which, in the language of the king of Prússia, in every war between France and England attached itself, like a boat following the course of a great ship of war, to the latter. Such are the subdivisions which form Buonaparte's confedera- tion of the Rhine, and which would bear the same relation to Áustria, were she thegreater power.

Secondaiy wr. The policy of secondary warlike states is, on the like nations. r j j > other hand, to reducesuch petty states, by conquest -or íncorporation, into provinces of its own empiré. POLICY OF THE VAR.

Such is the true policy of Great Britain, in regard to ali the lesser states, whose territories may become J the theatre of war, except Portugal, which is di- gg^^ofthc vided by Spain from France.

Inte tof The greater powers, not immediately concerned ^ vren in war, are interested that neither of the con- rot.concemed tending powers should become too! powerful, perhaps irresistible, by subduing theother; the existence of such powers is, therefore, advantageous to the secondary state, and their alliance is to be courted : at present none cxists in Europe, unless Great Britain assist SPAIN and Ausiria to Fonnationof such powers to gain additional strength. llussia ought to be the toure erents. other. If the ènemy be a great deal stronger than yourself, but has not, from circumstances, the power of making an immediate attack upon you, employ the intermediate time- in strengthening yourself by every possible effort; but beware of drawing a third power into the contest, unless you are prepared to support that power with vigour, to render his overthrow impossible, which otherwise would heighten the means and spirit of the conqueror.

The strength,o » resources,> and character,' of allies,' Cauts«nrcspccuing allies. and the probable nature of the operations, cannot be too well considered. If the theatre of war be an enemy's country, CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

the more allies to be had the better; but, if it caunot be kept out of the country of the allies, Military policy requisite to some caution is rcquired.—Avoid the friendship of Great Brtt&iu. a court whose rules are detested by the peopte: let it hc neutral: assist it by divcrsion.—If the enemy conquer it meet him there; and, if you drive him out, circumstances rnay render it every yvay expedient to consider it a conquest, or it rnay be restored to independence under a better government. Error». A nation should never suffer itself to be rendered obnoxious for the sake of half mcasures.— Occnrrenee» We conquered Heligoland when we should have «nd axíoms. possesscd Danish Zealand, and desired to occupy Half measures, Lampedosa instead of Sicily. We have possession however, ari- ling from the of Ceuta and Aladeira, yet have infinite scruples caution of integrity, to be of delicacy in Spain and Portugal. BToided. The fear of being abandoned and given up at a peace should never be suffercd in a conquered country, as it will paralyze those efforts which would otherwise bc favourable to us. Sicily again obtrudes itself upon us as onc of the striking instances why a groat nation rnay, without deviation from justice, choose its own allies and enemies in war. Our unwarlike policy has proenred us neither the gratitude nor respect of the continental states: a British army in aid of Áustria, at Marengo or POLICT OF THE WAR. 47

Austcrlitz, would have made us glorious. The B00Kn want of respect is evident in the seizure of Hano- h"T~v"V' ver by Prússia. Any power has, in our own gjgjjg{^ minds, laid down the law to Great Britain. Rús- sia objects to this; Áustria or Prússia to that; Tmkey to another; Sardinia, too, and the Porte, and Algiers! Thus we sought harbours in Lam- Em»* pedosa instead of Sardinia and Sicily, conquered Surinam instead of Holland, Heligoland instead of Denmark, Guadaloupe instead of the Netherlands, ships and cargoes, under Prussian colours, instead of Prússia itself!

The want of information respecting the country wu* of ™f°r- 0 * mation v«y to which they have been sent lias been the constant prejudicial to ^ our militnry complaint of our armies ; want of maps and plans; op"8*»01»» anddisappointmentin the disposition of the natives: yet there is no reason why we should not have as good maps and statistical and politicai accounts of most countries as they have themselves, and military memoirs of every country in the world: but the spirit of observation in individuais has been discountenanced; and these things are not to be done at the moment;—it is the work of science and foiesight, and must he considered a principal object of military policy.

The want of this information, aided by the inadeqnacy of ' ■* eur expeditioni. 48 CAMPAIGNS IN 9PAIN AND PORTUGAL.

*CH?PKI.L division of our military force, has, it would appcaf, ^J*^-^ also creatcd a numerical deficieney in ahnost atl Gr^tBriuiru our min'tary projects, at least at the outsct, though' a surplus generally witnesscs thc closeof thc campaign.

XVíI» of our The duke of York tiever had the mcans to give force» being . . . . . dispírscd nrm a tair chance on the contment; the troops througliout the . . *orid. beaten out of Holland in 1799 beat the best ot the French veterans, with inferior numbers, in Egypt- When Buonaparte disembarked in Egypt hc had 40,000 men; General Fraser had 5000. At Copenhagen the number was quite equal to the object, and it succceded. At Buenos Ayres it was not so : the force scnt on this gigantic enterprise, where, according to the report of Sir Samuel Achmuty, 15,000 troops would be necessary to conquer and keep the country, being 10,000, 2000 of which were necessary to secure Monte Video: whatever other causes might contributc to its failure; this was sufficient.

And want or These causes at the same time arose from no par- consideratíon of ^ 11. ibc anny. ticular mínísters or meu, but from a cramped policy, evincing itself in that sort of doubt and unwilling- ness by which one contributes to an object of Iittlc estimation; and it is this inadequacy which produces the necessary anxiety always evinced on landing our troops, instead of forgetting our fOLXCY OF THE WAft. • 49

transports, to secura a çood place of re-embarka- BOòK i.

Military ]K>licy requisite to # Orcut Britatn'. * Of the inadequacy of our force, á dcspóuduig cam» of min- spírit iii tile army ts a natural conscquence. IlenCC «y. the inhabitants of evcry country wc wpuld assíst, tliough they may dctcst the Frendi, shriuk frorri embarking in the same cause with a people who so easily despair. The population of a country first taking up arms look to a regular army for support, for example, and for ordcrsr; if theií a'regulai army, instead of affordi ng this basis, sustenariee, orpoint tTappui, either looks orappears to look to tliem for protcction, their liopes, spirits, exertions, and eapability of evcry kind, must as* naturally be deslrovcd. Hov can a people bc expected.to join a British army only capable of protracting a eontcst, and causing their country to beconie the theatre of war, and whicb, it is probable, if tineatened bya superior force, instead of exerting itself to obtairr terms for them, at Icast, will fly to its transports, and leave them on. the beaeh to be slaughtered or pardoncd, at the pleasure of an exasperated conqueror? Our systcm of evaeuating possessions we have conquered is cqually injurious,;—as, in Egypty when our views beyond Alexandria werc aban- VOL. x. £ 50 CAMPAI O NS IN SPA1N ANO FORTUOAL,

doned, wliere wholc villages are said to have been exterminated. Slilitary policy requisite to ' The expedition to Danish Zealand, which was Great Britam. ' immediately evacuated, and consequent hostilities elsewhere, Lave ruined Denmark: as a conquest it might have been prosperous, and ultimately happy; a smalí garrison, exclusive of thc various means of conciliation, supported, as it might have been, on any occasion, was suílicient for its retention. The deprivation of their fieet was equally injurious to us with the Danes as the retention of their country, whilc from the latter we should havehccn compelled to proteet their commerce and prosperity. The foolisb French expedition of Humbert into Ireland, which prodnced nothing but inisery to the unforUinate Irish peasantry who joined him, has been not unaptly described as a counterpart of many enterprises on the part of Britam.-—The French werc herc, like us, deccived in their estimate of the povvers of unguided enthusiasm. Thesc are the eífects of a weak and indecisive, instead of a prompt and efíicient, policy in mili-. tary aifairs. i

Tiie tme artor No warlike enterprisc should be rashly under- policy of war. taken or abandoned; difficulties are to be sur- xnounted and danger defied. Success on a grand. POLICV OF THE WAB. 51 scale is the only obiect to be aimcd at in war, of BOOKI. wbich minor victorics are only the mcans.—Means ^iT^^r* » miluary policj" are to be varicd accordinp;O to circumstances:—but» ^equuiteO real liritain. 10 not so as to lose sight of the end. Evcry thíng that opposes success is an object to bc surmounted by force orart; every individual who impedes it is either an opcn cnemy, to bc destroyed, or a real, if not an intentional, cncmy, to be deprived of the power of doing harm.

There is, however, a higbcr labour to be exer- poiuícs to b« ... . ' . . miicd with war. cised in the practice orr war:—the general must not only understand bis art, command valiant and well-disciplined troops, and gain victories, but he must be able to smooth bis way, and consolidatc the fruits of bis success as a statesman and legislator;—to negotiate, and to liave a just and distinct idea of the policy best adapted to any country in wbich be acts, and capablc of pointing out to superiors at home and anibassadors abroad the obstaeles that oppose him, to obtain their assistance to the reinedy; this would scem also to require, ou the part of statesmen, a general know-' ledge of the art of war.—Art and force must go hand in hand. By an erroneous notion among British officers, that tbey ought not- to assume any responsibility out of the routine of their military duties, their £2 53 CAMPAI0KS.1N SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

B K aCL C«AP I/" f dties are stinterl; their views and conduet iMjlitaryJ^T**^? pol cy limited to tactics instead of aspirine:l ° to become c?e«bBrhwn. neroes > antl» wnen they onght to bc acting, they are waiting for instruetions! Accustomed at liome also to the proper controul of tlie civil magistrate, they invite its whole formula from the magistrates of foreign countries, (where civil laws cease to act, who sniilc with contempt at their indecision,) and then blame them for not doing wliat it is not in their power to do, and what it was incumbent in snch officers to do for themsclvcs. When they ought to spcak in the language of íirnmess and resoltition, either mildly or íirmly, as occasion may rcqnire, they break out into the prayers, lamenta- tions, and com piai nts, of suppliants. Generais have, howcvcr, no more occasion for the reíined subtleties of the diplomatic art than ministers of war for the minor principies of tacties. l;or both, firmness, inflcxible perseverance, and grcatness of niind, are the princij>al guides. Sovereign powcis have ever shewn a disregard to the ablest arguments advanced in the justest claims, unlcss supported by fleets and annies. It was thus James I. was neglectcd, while every power which could readily back its negotiations- ■with a militaiy force was respected. The weakness and absurdity of tlie subsidising, system; the purchase of substitutes to fight our *ouey OF THE WAH. 53

battíes. as tliose of Áustria. Iike the fceble repre- B00Kl ' » . I CIIAP. I. sentatives of balloted consciipts in our constitu- „^<^*'^fc/ tional* militia foree, is evident in a varietyof in- iíiu'!i'eí?. ' J Great Bntajn. stanees: but, if we can coneeive the idea of a sub- stítute paying a principal for being allowed to serve for him, we shall see it in its true absurdity. The principie of purchasing ground, as it were, whereon to ereet a fortified posítion as an out- post would be an excuse little speeious, and still Iess just, and, perhaps, the worst of ali, arguments in its favour. Sueli is our present proee- dure in Sicily; the míserable Neapolitans we sub- sidized with neither view, but only toenable them to pay tribute to France, and th is in such direct terms, that the British agent, it is openly asserted, paid the money into the hands of the Frcneh banker direct The same coalitions, or nearly, would have been forwarded, if a single subsidy had not been paid,

* There is, by the way, liltle " conslilu tional" in what re- tnains of our militia force, so cntirely supplied by snbstitutea, however individually respectable, un|ès$ it be (he constitutional ineffideney of our late mililary policy. Excellent as are the ideas of a free militia, of the mosl scnsible writer on the subject, Mr. Granville Sharp, it will require but liítle military consideralion, to see how inutile a force of restricted service must ever be in an erapire of such extensive relations as Grcat Briiain. 5

and these very subsidies, as in the last instance, might actually be a means of attracting the Militery po!ie influenced,' as wc liave **iGreat 5í?.Britam. too often done, by such professions, (as tliose of our allies, by which we have been induced to subsi- dise secret friendships and inefficient defences,) we may be raade tlie blind instruments of our own ruin. We may leave neutral ali tlie valuable parts of the Frendi empire, and omit evcry just and favourable opportunity of Jncreasing our own power; forgetting, out of pity to fbreign princes, who may be our bitter enemies in their hearts, the sacred duty which we owe to the memory of our ancestors, to ourselves, and to our posterity; and, continuing to waste upon strangers to our language, to our feelings, and to our principies, those treasures which, if employed in arming British hands, míght enable us to conquer half the world, till at last we might find out our error too late. Wben a mighty army of Norwegians, Ncapolítans, Sici- lians, Dutch, Swedes, and Germans, originally raised, trained, and supported, by our own money, may come and drive us out of Ireland, or burn London to the ground before our faces, ali the while professing to be extremely sorry for the necessity they are under of acting against their

* Esssy, chap. viii. p. 316. S6' CAMPAIG2ÍS INT SPAIN A2ÍD PORTUGAL.

bcst friends, and deriding us by promises of ranging themselvcs under tbe Britisb standard the moment m,nisiicio that we, in our tnrn, sliall become stronger tban Oreat Britam. ' ' ° the Prendi P It is now high time for us to shew the world, that \ve can not only save ourselves, indepeudent of foreign assistance, but that we are fully determined to hunible or destroy ali our ene- mics, or perisb in the attempt. Experience having provecl the absurdity of at- tcmpting to break tbe power of France by a war pf finance, bired coalitions, temporary occupa- tions, and little divcrsions, we must recur to tbe only mcthod whieh lias not yet been tried; that of fighting, on a great sealc, for ourselves, and of attacking our enemy on every element, and in every part of the world, wliere lie is to be found, without distinction; for ali elements, ali seasons, ali climates, are alike to tbe brave. Nothingnipre threatens the downfal) of a nation than a want of confidence in, or ignorance of, its own strength, and, of course, a bclief of the inferiority of its own troops to tbose of other nations; and nothing can more complctely evinee £he absurdity of it tban a bare retrospect.

Extravagantno- First, we formed to ourselves tbe most magni- tions of íbreign t p " •riuici. ficent ideas of Austrian, Pnissian, and llussian, armies; their sp!dier-like appearance, and wonder- POLICT OF THE WAR. • 57 fui steadiness under arms. discipline, valour, tac- BOOKI. r l ' ' CM AP. I. tics. every tliinjar were subieets of our enthusiastic .V^^-^ ' J ° J Militar; policj ■admiration: when, to our utter astonishment, the requisite to ' * Great Britam. French carne forward and beat them ali one after the other. The French enthusiasm, French valour, French manoeuvres, French generais, in their turn, becanie subjects of amazement, and the power of Buonaparte inspired somerhing of the same idea which children conecive of the prowess of Jack the giant-killer. Ali the while we looked on ourselves as pígmies, in comparison with those mighty warriors, those giants of our creation, and our çoldiers wcre nearly reduced to scorn; when, to confound the uni verse and oursclves most of ali, Bnt,*tfoop» * sopenor to those it becamc proved that the huroble, despised, inex-.^whole perienced, British troops could beat these conquerors of the world! If, with ali our imperfections, we contrive to beat them, it is evident, that, by improving ourselves iu those poínts in which we are deíicient, where we now repulse we shall be able totally to defeat, and ultimately, perhaps, annihilate, any French army that may come in our way, let who will be its general. To improve thesc deficiencies we must entirely change our principie of remaining inactive,—never venturing to attack our enemy, running away from every country in which wc know he can 58 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN A5ÍD PORTUGAL.

attack us, and from some countries without ascertaining whether he can get at us or not. Military policy ,. . 1 /* j. reqni»it<- to If the iiiode of sending men instead or money to Great Britain. . . our allies be adopted, we botn try and watch over their sincerity, and a large British army acquires an opportunity of learning the art of war. Our own officers and soldiers measure their talents' and their valour with those of their friends and their enemies, and fiud thcmselves, probably, superior to both. By their exploits they increase the glory of the state, and render us terrible and respectable, as a nation, ali over the worid. By exchan- ges, promotions, and movemènts, of corps, every regiment in the serviee becomes full of officers and men inured to war. Hope and energy take place of inactivity and despondeney in our national councils; and, on any occasion, should externai wars even not aíford suceess, we have an army for home defence, insensible to fear, despising hardships and misery, and fully capable of rendering our new levies such as to meet invasion in the most warlike and formidable attitude possible.

Poiicy «nd pos- Great Britain, it is conceived, would soon be «bilityofeman- cipatmgthe aljle, single-handed, to encounter the Freneh, with countries con- 7 o qUtredby armies equal to any that they could bring into the field against us; for, it is unneeessary and absurd in us, who rule by sea, to waste our foree in JPOLICT OF.T1IE WAS. ò9

numerous garrisons; and populaticn alone, with- B0OKL out a corresponding revenue, is not the standard S^"^ Sliiitsry polícj of thc militaryJ strensjth of anyJ nation in externai requisite to ° # GmtBrium. war. Hence the additional importanee of lopping off the conquered countries of the continent, upon which the power of ~ Buonaparte is príncipally foundeô, and of either establishing their permanent independenee, or adding tliem lo our empire. Sicily, Itaty, Switzerland, Denmark, Sweden, Turkey, Holland, and Germany, call for attention.

Our vital intercsts lie in Europa: our force PanicaUriy Spain. sliould not be yet divided, and the Spanish penín- sula, therefore, presents itself in a prominent point of view. The dismemberment of the French empire is not to be considered as a measure of puré generosity, on our part, to any foreign prince or nation: it is with us a measure of self-preservation and necessíty, and we are principais in every war that tends to that object There is no country in the world which we could AdmiraMethM., tre of war in bave chosen for the theatre of actíon, where ali Spain. imaginahlccircuinstances, physieal aswell as mor?l, could have possibiy favoured us so much as in Spain. Wbatevcr might have been the views of the British government, during the intrigues of Buonaparte in that country, which ended in the CO CAMFAIGNS IN SPA1N AND PORTUGAL.

B T a C?I?PW * bdication of the whole family,* we did not enter MiEtT^^Kc *^e- ''sts ni a^'ance w'tn a -weak corrupted govern- eíluflíriuii» ment> which, upon the first reverse, would have subinitted to the enemy, giving up half its territory, and declaring war against us as lhe price s^níh"í Se °^ Peace- ^e na£l the whole Spanish nation for Sp»attb pcopie. ai]jes; the extraordinary hatred and antipathy of tliat nation to the Frcncli; their desire of amity with England; the mountaínous and difficult nature of their country, which makes np, in a considerable degree, for their inferiority in point of discipline and military skill; its península form, which throws such an advantage, in war, into the hands of the power that rules bysea; every thing hekl out success to us and to our allies; and the only thing to be feared was our modern national system of making war by halves. Deserted by their government, under the influence of France, and threatened with subjugation, the people had ali the enthusiasm of freedom,' and directed it justly. "War zcitk the world! but peace with England"^ was their cry, and the credulity of that enthusiasm which led them to

• His cxcellency the duke dei Infantado, atpresent in London, scem" to have been long and uncquivocally favourable to the British interest in Spain. ■f Con todo el mundo la guerra, Y paz con Inglaterra, ÍOLICY OF THE WÀR. 6l

B K 1 cxpect thafwith patriotísm alone tliey would C°?P 1 ' carry cvery thing beforc them, and raarch strait to ^^^ Paris, promised, before it was too late, to subside gjjjjjj^ into the strength of regular ardour. Every thing invited the cxpedition of a pow- JSSJlXJ erful British force into Spain, to act with vigour. ^1^ As to its subsistence, when it found the part of the country in which it acted exhaustcd, it could, by a few tlays march, fali back upon the coast; while Britain rules the ocean, however numerous, the troops might thence be supplied Mith provísions in plenty, whilc the French werc star- ving in the interior. Such positions might also be taken in the strong mountainous provinces near the coast as might intcrrupt and cut off supplies from F rance; as, for instance, a strong army ia

Biscay, which would be as safe as in PortugaIr and would have the excellent barbour of Santonen and that of Santanden in its rcar, besides' severa) creeks calculated for the small craft of the country. The general of a British army, acting in co-operation with the Spaniards, should have the chief command of the combined troops, wherever acting conjointly, with theabsolute disposal ofpro- ■ visions, military stores, and the rneans of trans- port, by which rneans concert and unity of action- would be established. If, as must be expectcd in 62 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

*ã?*u tile variety of circumstances under which thc Spa- MiiuT^iií nish armies take tlie fieWi generais without capacity inactivc and Gxtll BIS». ' > obstinate, should appear, it is requisite that they should either be displaccd from the servicc or put iuto garrisons not liable to be attacked; if not without capacity the common cause ought not to loose their services, but they might command in some province wliere concert with the British general is not necessary; and he influencc. ought to have sufficient iníluence in the country for their removal. In short, such aninflucnce in the domestic concerns of Spain ought to be allowed as should prevent or repair disaster. The war, in that country, if carricd on with vigour on both sides, must neccssarily be a war of severa! armies spread over great tracts, often at a considerable distance from each other; but two or three o*f which may occasionally concentra te themselves into a grand army, either in hopes of destroying some corps of the enemy, or repelling' an attempt against themselves. More than one British army may be absolutely necessary in thc península to preserve ali the advantages of superior naval power, and to each of these should be attached a native army of an equal or greater number of men. Kuobcn. The more British troops sent into Spain the ÍOLICY OF THE WAR, 63

B 1 casier it must be for the Spaniards to organize c°^l> * themselves and form armies, either to co-operate j^JJjy^ or act at a distance from them. Wherever the g^gj^ armies cannot form a junction, concert. should, neverthelcss be kept up, by the British general being generalíssimo of the whole. In provinces where no respectable British force exists, it would be inexpedient to interfere with the immediate military cominand. Wherever encouragement could be given to the Commani Spanish generais it should not fail. British officers might be given to intermix with their own, and oçcasionally detachments of British troops to serve under their orders.

Such are some of the original ideas which seem J^J^J to have been projected with respectto the military j2frircoB" conduet of the war in Spain; ideas which it is sincerely to bc hoped may produce the effect of rescuing from the grasp of the usurper this fairand valuable gem, whosc weiglit and brilliancy would indeed overpower and eclipse ali the other jeweU of his imperial diadem, If arguments wcre wanting, it has been said, and not without ground, that the natives of Spain and Portugal, whom we omit or despair of being able to discipline, wijl be disciplined by our enemies; they, whom we know not how to lead, 6$ CAMPAIGNS IN áPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

^í^,1' W'H be driven by the French, and, should ouf K^^T*^ naval superiority ever cease, the resources of the 5SI«££ia. %an"s" península alone will be sufficient to fit oút a fleet and army strong enough for the conquest: of Irei and, leaving the rest of the continental énf- pire to wield ali its strength against Great Britam'. Thrèe centuries ago the energy and valour of Spairí threatened the subjugation ôf ali Europe.

The moment is, however, arrived wheii an in-' creasíng energy in our military policy is apparent, andí when British armics in Europe will, with redoublecF' strength, resume the place of their forefathers, and more than emulate the fields of Agincourt and the days of Peterborough. That this system of in-4 creased vigour will continue to gain ground cannot be doubted, since it requires no change in our politicai constitution, but an extensbn of the same principies which characterise its naval policy, and have placed the British marine on its present eminence : ■ it requires no sacrifice of our commercial pursuits as a nation, for integrity forms the soul of commerce,* perseverance and enterprize are cssential*

* It is not prelended here to assert that raeanness of soul in the* catarei body may not degrade it in lhe commercial one.' í»OLICV OF THE WAR. *>5 to it; qualíties ali biglily congenial to tlie military CHAPili' character; and that thc latter even stimulates the MnJJI^T^cy former, would seem to be a just inferencefrom their SSirUaiu. frequcnt union, as in antient Tyre, Athens, Car- thage, and Rhodes, modern Genoa3 Venice, Hol- land, and Grcat Britain; in the latter more parti- Commercefa- 1 vourable to cuíarly, from the advantageous check of the separate arm5« class of hereditary nobility and gentry eomposing the landed interest. And so far from involving us in any imitation of theodious French principies and practicc, which seem to aífect and deter from the character of a military nation, nothing is less to be apprchended, from the difference alone of our politicai circumstances and relations. Cruelty and heróisni are as rarely comhined as grcatness and despotism. A firm adherence to thc true principies of the British constitution, that happy mixture of monarchy, aristocracy, "and democracy, so nearly approaching to the description of the prince ofphi- losophers, alone will insure to us thc real charaeter of a military nation, prosperous in necessary, but not delighting in unnecessary, war.

The increased vigour of our martial policy is already evinced even in the respectability of the present military force of Great Britain, and will no doubt be extended to its cmpíoyment. Those who shudder to see a regular soldier quit VOL..I. F 66 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND FOItTUGAL.

our shores may look to the returns of our various ^jjj*^-^ forces, and, so far from yielding to despondency at requisite to Grcat Britain. the powcr whieh France lias obtained of sending íive veterans to meet each individual we can send against them, learn, with agreeable surprise and self congratulation, that, while we Iiave been trembling Regular for,ce with apprehension, Britain already possesses a re- »f Britaio. gular force of near three hundred thousand men • and that, by a vigorous and active employment of this force, their numbers will increase in every part of the world where they can be opposed to tbe French. Admitting that the disposable revenue of the French empire is even nearly double our own, and that consequently Biionaparte may equip double our number of soldiers, he cannot bring above half of his effective force to act in the samc eountry, wheu by our naval superiority he may be threatened, with invasion, and cannot count upon his safety from insurrection, in every part of his vast empire. Half of his effective force in Spatn, Italy, or any remote eountry, eannot be subsisted for any length of time, in a body, upon the resources of the neighbouring districts transported to his eamp by land-carriage.

R«U causes of The Freneh deseribe their power as irresistible French viçtO- t . ' »«• in numbers as efficiency ; yet, in every aeeount of rOLICV OP THE WAR. 67

R a a TC T an action, they speak of their own numbers in par- C1ÍAP# I#* ticular as inferior to their enemy in no ordinary Jj^^^Jy degrec : this is confirmed by thc natural vanity of cS Briuia, their opponents, who would sooner ascribe their disasters to the extraordinary valour and talents of the French than their own imbecility or that of their governments. Comparing the accounts on both sides, as little energy appears to have been generally exerted by our allies as skil! on that of the enemy. TheGermans, who in our army have never found any difficulty in beating the French, seem to have been paralyzed in their own, according to various orders wliich have been issued after every distinguished battle. Something, therefore, rotten must have found its way to the constitution of those noble armies, which formerly bore down every thing before them, and ignorance has clouded the vigour of those at the head of them. As to the extraordinary skill executed by the French, we have their own evidence of blunders on almost every great occasion. Regnier censured the stupidity of Menou for not dcstroying the Bri- tish at Alexandria; and was himself afterwards ridiculed for being beaten by a smaller force in Ca- lábria : and, in the campaigns which are the subjeets of these sheets; various are thc censures which Soult and others of the bravest anti most accom- '68 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKI. plished generais of Franec havc suffercd for not CIUF. I. ' ° k-^v^,fc-; having drívcn the English into the sea, or eut the Militarj policy °^ ° leqnbiteto strággling tbousands in picees ! Greal Britam. o& o I Mueh of the good fortune of the enemy also, aceording to his own aeeount, lias been derived from the want of that vigorous martial policy of whieh it is the design of this skctcli to shew the Errors. neeessity and indubitablc utility. For instance, when lie was eucountering the llussians, on the Vis- tuia, he aeknowledges a continental army of 30 or 40,000 English would have ruined him ; the want of whieh he only aeeóunts for by our not choosing to spare from insular and colonial enterprises a single soldier for the salvation of our allies. Tlie army sent to Walchereti he feaied might have decided the fate of Spain; and that a well-timed expedition to Gennany or ltaly would then have been liighly dangerous to him. "Of ali this, fram the best opinions communieated on the subjeet, there can be, it is feaied, little doubt; and, without recurring to the máximas estab hoste doceri, there is no prohibition of our adoptingsueh measures in future. 15ut, while this is adniitted, let no soldier indulge for a moinent in suppositions that bis services have been misemployed, for the mmisters of the government whieh employed him have not been themselves heard íipon the qucstioit, nor probably will be,nnless a disputed poiut between sumè POLICY OF THE WAft. 69: of them shall, according to the old adage, produce something for the public ear; until another Bubb ^y^y Dodington, Loid Orford, or a king of Prússia, ia g^, the garrulity of age, shall think proper to expose the naked figure of the Colossus, ivliieh each in his oWD sphere, military or politicai, contributed to erect; and, thougb the evideiice of an enemy is certainly the best when applied against him- setf,' yet it must be récollected, that, to the success of any military objcct, it is necessary, in any point of view, that the part of eaeh individual be performed without questioning the policy or arrangement of the whole, partieularly at a time when the best judgement, unaided by facts, ean possibly form no conception. , .

It must be an encouraging contemplation to jjjjjj^jj^ every active soldier that, exclusive of the military^ force dispersed in our numerous dependencies throughout the world, a regular force of nearly one hundred and ten thousand men7 infantry, ca-r valry, and artillery, lias recently been returned on the home-service fit for any enterprise whatever, while. a well-appointed and disciplined militia of 80,000 nien, besides 300,000 local militia and volunteers, remained, sufiícient, with the aid of a body of cavalry and artillery, to defend our shores:—that our colonies demand very triíling 70 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAlN AND PORTUGAL.

sacrifices of force; that, in fact, a disposeable force of one hundred and twenty thousand men may requiíiíetolUilítary policy evidently. , , t bet Jurnished r • i i Jor r incessant• actuali service, Great Britai a. . . a number greater tlian, from every autnonty, was evcr enabled to be brought into action by the áll-powcrful enemy. Of the Britisli disposeable force, perhaps, one hundred thousand might also be British troops, an infinitely larger proportion than that of French in the enemy's army; and, whatever the apparent difficulties in our awkward modes of recruiting, the population lias been and mustj according to determined principies, continue to be fully adequate to its support.* To the country this position cannot fail to be equally satisfactory, since it does not appear neces» sary to increase our present national mllitary establishment; and while, from the principies of population, an army, actively employed in offen- sive war, will be amply supplied, as long as the industry of the country is not diminished, nor the means of exercising it taken from any branch of the comniunity, so, if, from want of well-planned oíFensive measures, a defensive war should ever be necessary to Britain, it is to be recollected that it is not merely destruetive to the

* * For the full developement of this and other important principies see AJaMius on Population. POLTCY OF THE WAR. 71 troops cmployed, but to the mass of population *£?" from which they are recruited, by depriving it of jj^^fj^ the means of industry and subsistence. SeTSriubi.'

Nothing should impede a vigorous prosecution of the war. What cannot be efFected in one campaign must be pursued in a second, a third, and for ever: perseverance in the war-statesman or soldier is the only sure forerunner of victory. In the private despatches of Wolfe he is seen altnost hopeless of success, in consequence of the smallness of his force, yct, determined to do bis utmost with whathehad, his cnterprise succeeded. Coun- tries must not be cvacuated after the first attack nor troops drawn from the most bríllíant enterprises to be drilled in their barracks under cover of ships of war. It is better for a nation to risk any thing tlian to give up a legitimate object in war; " better

for an array, a corps3 or detachment, to perish, tlian, by capitulation or otherwise, to abandon without resistance any country, position, or garrison, which it was sent to occupy or defend against any enemy, however superior in numbers or resources. This is the ooly spirit by which armies or states can be defended. Nothing is so essential to success in war as the military glory of a nation; and nothing more contributes to this than a long and vigorous resistance 72 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK t 0f a SUperior force, or thc obstinate defenceofa CBAP. I. * ' ^-*-v~*^ fortified place, though its efFects should not suc- Military policy r 3 ° requisite to ceeci# The business of an army is to destroy Great BnUin. ** the politicai power of the cnemy ; and those who yield any point with a yiew to mere safety mistake the object of the military profession. To this spirit the new cnergies to be every where perceived in our military policy may give life and strength; and by this spirit and these energies, pcrseveringly pursued, may the conqueror Buona- parte possibly be arrested in almost the last stage to universal empire,—the península of Spain and Portugal. Had the same vigorous spirit of martial policy cxisted at the instant when Spain awoke from the lethargy of ages, and displaycd an energy which. none, noteven the vigilant Napoleon, foresaw, then was the noblest opportunity offered to throw in our whole undivided military force, in sitpport of a cause so intimatcly connected with our future safety. The time is not however gone by. The jealousies arising from politicai circumstances, with which we are necessarily unacquainted, would naturally protract a little, but they also subside. The peculiar circumstances in which those in whose hands .the administration of the governmenthas fallen are placed also require every consideration, as well as ,the condition of a people flushed with the noblest TOLICY OF THE WAR. ■ 73 sentimento of patiiotic entliusiasm and judging of BOOK r. tlieir mcaus by their feelings. ehccked by evcry ^fT"*"^ colei dictate of order and paralyzed by every dis- gq^siieto. as ter, till time sliall have maturcd and qualified the noble spirit which ferments through their whole body.

To British forces it is not, it is hoped, necessary f*tí£n totbe to point out the expedieney of arming tliemselves with ali the caution and forbearance, and dignity and decision, as occasion demands, which is dictated by the prudence of the true soldier; and most of ali patience and fortitude during campaigns perhaps long and lingering, harassing movements without effect, and objects complicated and indecisive. The patriotic virtues, elevation of minei, and perseverance, of the Spaniard are sever to be lost sight of. In the moment of anguish, disappointment, anel despair, he may be forbidding, but his character is a generous one: his cause is the cause of mankind. His country, where it was least expected, was the only one on the continent of Eu- rope, individually, to make a stand against the usurper of continental empire; and, if we do not enter into these things, if rash judgements and the impetuousness of suffering make us censure him unkindly and unwisely, posterity will do liim justice, and tear the laurel from brows which shall 74 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. BcH°rKiL dearly, yet proudly, eam it, at the last stand of N*-*~Y~*»-> liberty in Spain.

TrueCorapari- It has been much the fashion, particularly with »on of Romc * MdCarthage the enemy, to compare the conflict hetween with Frange and * Bnuin. France and Great Britain to that between Romc and Carthage, and the state of either country to the other. What can be more flattering ? The Carthagenians, a small colony on the northern coast of Africa, by the superior wisdom and vígour of their measures, not only established their em pire, by conquest or irresistible influence, over the greater part of that extensive continent as far as the desert, but also conqucred almost ali Sicily, with Sardinia, Corsica, and ali the other Mediterranean islands, to the westward of Italy, and even the warhke nations of Spain. In the first war they were in generalship* much superior to the Romans, and in perseverance and greatness of mind equal to them, In the second, they brought better soldiers into the field than their an- tagonists, and, as a commander, Hannibal certainly outshone ali his competitors. Their discipline must have been admirable, from the mixed nature of their armies. No nation ever acted with greater ambition or energy in war than the

* As wHI be seen from the numerous ínsíances recorded of toem ia the Strategematiconof Frontinus. POLICY OF THE WAR. 75

BOOK L Carthaçeuians,° * and her fali originatedO neitber in her CHIP. I. addiction to commerce, nor her want of martial spí- y~~v~T* * True compan- rit, but a politicai error in her constitution. «mof n*me . If thc comparison between Britaia and Car- *j*?iance«n* thage be propitious, how much the reverse must be that between Rorne and Trance, in a conflict with Britain, where, while our forefatbers were Jittle removed from barbarisni, such was the steady vigour with wliich they resisted her accomplished legions, it became glorious even for a Roman to die. One of her victorious generais acknow-. ledged that they liad brokcn his heart; and others impressed them only by the most gracious conciliation. The Roman historian, Tacítus, in wri-: ting tlie life of a Frenchman, (Agrícola), describcs the superioríly of their youth, in ali acquirements, both military and civil, to the Gauls; and that they contributed to the strength of the Roman armies.* Tlie estimation in which they were held

* The folio wing return (drawn from anttent inscriptions, and the Notitía Provi nciarura, quoted by Camden) of BKITISH TROOPS, serving seventeai centuries ago in Egypt, France, SPAIN, and Germany, ought to inspirit the young British soldier, and thus apologise for its insertion here. Battalion, or wing of a thousand, in Britain, (ala Briiannicà Retam ©f Bri-

g •■ 4th Battalion or wing (ala) of Britons ín EGYPT. S 5£ andcS lst ^Elian Cohort of Britons. • mi»y» l?°0 3à Cohort of Britons. 7$: CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

B K e mans W cí?p ií ^y ^ R° 'N appear from the desire of ^^Y""**^ Mecenas to • eonfer on them the privUecre of Ro- cííufetith man ci^26115) and tne peculiar ordinaBce of Anto- ÊSL*1"1 * n*nu$ for thcir cxemption from disgraccful punishments. The Romans themselves never conquered' these Britons as a people: ,they werc, says Ta- citus, seduced into obedience but not slaveiy.

. And what is still more, overpowered by the weight of her own various and exlensive empire, Rome at length " a giant statue fell," scorned by the world she had conquered. Such, according to the opínions of the best informed, is the policy of the war in the península, as it arises out of the military policy of Great Bri-

7 th Cohortof Britons. 26th Cohort of Britons, in Arménia. Britísh, under the raaster of the Infantry. ")Among the Pala- Invineible younger British. j tine auxiliaries. Younger British slingers (exculcatores) ; light irregular skir- mishitig troops. Britons, with the Master of the Horse, in GAUL. Invíneible younger Britons in Spain. Eldcr Britons in Illyricum, (CKOATIA, DALMATIA, SAL- MATIA, &C.) The ala wasa term applíed by the Romans to foreign troops, of the same ira por t to that of the Roman legion, But they werc placed on the wings. The cohort consisted of about 600 men. POLICY OF THE VAR. ,, ., «77 tain. From this succinct-*view of it, the soldier BOOK i. CIIAP. I. may be solacecl in the mídst of difficulties, and in- v—^^^z . . Companson of spmted in the performance of duties which hum- R°n>eand • ... Carthagewítk ble or exalted are requisite in their place to the France 9ad suecess of the whole. 70 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

CHAP. II.

MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA, ADAPTED TO THESE CAMPAIGNS.

Brief NotkeSy Geographical and Historical.— SPAIN, its Manners and Cusioms.—Civil Eco- nomy.—Municipal Arrangements, Post-Roads, %c—Rural Ecanomy.—Military Economy.— Military Arrangements.—Characier of the Spa- nish Armies, under the old Regimen.

THERE can be no scene more ínteresting to military men thaii the península of Spain and Por- Er' tu^al: and it is therefore to be hoped and expected

Thc ptnksui», that, from the opportunities afforded them, the world will become better acquaintcd with that delightful country, rich in ali the produclions of art and nature, in the monuments of almost every peoplc in every age. Surrounded by seas and mountains, the most western country of the European continent en- MILITARY VIEW OF T1IE PENÍNSULA. 79 joys a temperature of climate the most conducive BOOK L / to health and enjoyment. It contains gold, pre- n"^Xr*" cíous stones, and iron, and, vrhat is better, the Bketch* soil is naturally fertile, and produces every necessary of life. It has chains of hígh mountains, and considerable rivers ; the most iniportant of the former are the Pyrenees, which separate Spain. from France, extending from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean; those of Osca and Gua- darrama, separatíng the two Castiles, and the. Sierra Morena, that seems to cut off Andalusia from her sister provinces: of the latter are the' Ebro, Guadalquivir, Tagus, the Guadiana, Douro, Guadalavian, and Segura. The happiness of the country is supposed to have becn at the same time its greatest evil in becoming the nursery of rival" and inimical nations. It is bounded on the north by the Pyrenean mountains, on the sou th by the Straits of Gi- braltar, on the east by the Mediterranean, and on the west by the Atlantic Ocean. Glancing back into the obsctirity of Spanisli history, the arrival of the commercial Phíenicians first attracts notice. They landed, as is supposed, in the island of St. Peter, and construeted the temple of Hercules, of which remains are visible at low-water, and two pillars, on which they inscribed non plus ultra. Tliey afterwards erectedi 80 CA1IPAIGNS IN SPAIN AXD POltTtGAL.

the town of Gades, or Gadir, now Cadiz. The Greeks shared in their advantages, and had an Historical " Aetcb. extensive commeree : They founded, among otner cities, Arapurias and Saguntum. The Cathagenians, however, madc themselves masters of the whole, and so remained, till overcome by the Romans. This is not the place for these glorious charaeter istics, yet who can rcfrain from irregular exultation in the spirit with which three cities chose rather to perisli than surrendcr* to an. enemy: Saguntum from attachment to the Romans, As- tapa to the Carthagenians, and Numantia, above ali, for the love of liberty. ■ Spain possessed ali the advantages of a Roman provinee. From the various colonies, the Ro- man forces opened roads in every direction, built aqueduets, and commemoraíed their own honour in triumphal arches: while lhe natives, as usual, were conciliated by the amusements of theatres and circuses, and protected, as became the rival country of their owu Italy. The Asturians and Biscayans preferred independence in their native mountains, and, rather than be subjugatcd, even by an Augustus, preferred to perish sword in hand. The flame of liberty, however, seems to have been shcltcred liere, and to have survived the lapse of centuries for the regeneration of Spain in a prouder day. tilLlTAUY VIEW OF THE PKNINSULA. 81

B 0 K ■About the end of the fourth century the penin- c°A p ir*' t sula shared the fate of the Roman provinces, but ^T^J" in a peculiar manner: the northem, or Scythian *«**• barbarians, in their conquests ■ embraced the religion of the monks, and often resigned themselves- to indolence; the Saracens, ou the crmtrary, a wandering banditti of Astatic Scythia, having embraced the rcligion of Mohammed, found new* ohjects of inspiration for their arms. Not only spoils and dominion were to be obtained by war, but even Paradise itself was to becarríed by the sa- bre. A commission supposed divine rapidly cx- tended their conquests and their rcligion. Mo- rocco and the adjacent populous countries of Mauritânia reccived the Koran, and the infidel arms prosecuted their carnage from the sou th of Spain to í taly and the islands of the Mediterranean. The cruelty of Vitira and the wcakness of Rodrigo accelerated the fali of Spain, whose fate was decided in the unfortunatc battle of Xeres de la Frontera, where Rodrigo fcll. Some Spanish Goths, under Pelagius, took refoge in the Pyrenees. In Spain • and Portugal the Mohammedans, or Monrs, erected: powerful kingdoms; hence thosc Arabic monuments whose delicate richness forms such a singular contrast with the inajestic tcmplcs of the Romans, as does the gothic architecture with mo- VOL. I. C CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

dent simplicity, in a variety of specimens of thc whole which are still in existencc. tkctcb. fhe Aioors soon felt the influence which had spftened the manners of the Goths: they became rapidly civUizcd; the love of lctters enobled their ideas and purified their tastc without diminishing their courage; they opened public libraries at Se- ville, Grenada, and Córdova, and became en-; lightened by thc genius of numerous learned men. Tlie Moorísh kings themselves cultivated the- scicnces; and the reigns of the Abdarhannans and I\íohammeds became brilliant from the priva te virtues and public qualities of those princes, who were poets, historians, mathematieians, philosophers, and great eaptains, and often deserved the still better appellation of best of kings. The arts were developing themselves among the Moors, when the flame concealed in the Astúrias produced a new conflagration throughout Spain.

OHginof mo- A puré military spírit had revived in Europe un- dcrn Spain. dertne auspicesor Charlemagne, which formedthe origin of modern roínauce: military orders were established : their vows-were of celibacy, religion, and the exercise of anns; the defence of their country and faith. Whoever fell in battíe was decmed a martyr, and their ardour was crowned by the niost wonderful victories. Their eourtesy JIILtTARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 83

B K equalled their bravery; and, while thewarwasdis- °° t*- tinguished by battles, sieges, and assaults, it was ^Sã**' graced by tournaments, banquets, and challenges, sketch- the pride of ladies* love, and heroic ardour, that disdained ali selfísh and ignoblc actions. Pelagius not only defended lnmself in his mountains, but, having collected ali the noblcs of the Astúrias and thqse of other parts of Spain, led forth his troops and assistcd in conquest thosc ' chicfs who founded the kingdomsof Castile, Leon, Arragon, and Navarre, successivcly conquered from the Moors, who, driven into Grenada, long maintained themselves therc, but at length retired to Africa. i Alonzo, kingof Castile, in the spirit of the times, sought voluntccra from. other states; and, being victorious, had Hberally distributed honours and en- dowments among bis champions.

To one of the bravcst of them, Henry, a £jfj££L younger son of the duke of Burgundy, hc gave his daughter Teresa in marriage, with the 'sovereignty of the countries sou ti 1 of Gallicja, in dowry, commissioning him to extend bis dominions by the expulsion of the Moors. This was soon effeeted by the rich provjnees of Entro Min- ho e Douro and Tra los Montes, as well as great part of Beira, and the Moorish kingof Lamego becanie tributary. Many thousand christians, liv- 0 52 84 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

ing eiíher in subjection to thé Moors or in deso-» late independence in the mountains, anel some of llistorícal íketch. these Moors themsclvcs changingr even their religion, augmcnted the strength of Count Henry, and thus, on one of the most bcautiful and fertile spots in the world, called the marro w of Spain, (" Me- dulla Hispânica,") was established thé sovcreignty of Portuga], which in time spread its influence o ver the world, and gave a new force to the manners of nations. Alonzo Henry, his son, was proclaimed, after a great battle, king by the arniy; but, as it is observed by an admirable writer, — the goverument which the Portugtiese liad received, and which had been derived from their own valour, had taught them a love of liberty which was not«to be complimented away in the joy of victory or by the shouts of tumults, and it was not till six years after that he was crowned.

The complete expulsion of the Moors was re- served for the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, whose daughter Joan sueceeded them, tlie wife of Philip the Fair, archduke of Áustria, and mother of Charles V. who became at onee emperor of Germany and king of Spain. After as- piring to universal monarchy he chose to retire to obscurity, resigning the erown to his son Philip, MILITARV VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 85 whose taste and magnificence descended at least CUÁ9mllm to bis sem Charles IH. Historical sketch. As for Portugal, a suecession of constant victories in every battle formed a suecession of great inen, who found themselves worthy to rcign over so military and enterprising a nation. The Por- tuguesa, having claimed the chicf lionours in tlie expulsion of the Moors from Europe, now began to follow up their. snecesses by expeditions into Africa, under sueceeding monarchs pf a family whosc surnames were "just" and " brave." This Ied to that eminence of the Portuguese marine, wliicb, under Prince Henry, produced somany dis- co veries, and enabled Portugal to divide with Spain the new eastern and westem world between them.

Such was the península: the sueceeding SPUN. reigns varied only in the proportion of Ian- gour and degradation, by which, with a few sudden exceptions, they were characterised, leaving socicty without s])irit, the soil without cultivation, com mercê choked by the gold of México and Peru, and war without enterprize. As it is, Spain is divided into fourteen provinces, Prorinccsof modem Spain. J^avane, Biscay, and the Astúrias, to the north. S6 CAMPAIGXS IN SPAIX AND PORTUGAL.

Of which Biscay is subdivided into the provinces

J)ivibion of of Alva, Guipuscoa, and Biscay. Sfain, West. Galicia and Estremadura to the west. South. Andalusia, Grenada, and the kingdom of M-ur- cia, soutk.

EasU Valência, Arragon, and Catalonia, to the east Centr». Leon and the two Castiles com pose the centre of the kingdom. The following are the extent and capitais of the provinces, in pretty nearly the conrse which will be pursued in their descríption.

Grcatest PiOTÍnccs, Extent ia lengtli. breadth. Capitais. squarc leagues. Leagues Leagues. New Castile 4,300 78 95 Madrid. Old Castile 2,700 76 72 Burgos. Leon 1,980 66 40 Leon. Astúrias 530 30 16 Oviedo. Galicia 1,250 50 25 Compostella Estremadura 1,500 60 41 Badajoz. Andalusia 2,600 85 50 Seville. Grenada 1,300 80 40 Grenada. Mmcia 1,100 42 30 Mure ia. Valência 1,520 75 25 Valência. Catalonia 1,700 58 37 Barcelona. Arragon 2,200 64 40 Saragossa. Upper Navarre 450 31 15 Pampeluna. Biscay, Guipuscoa and Alva 440 28 21 Bllboa. • Majorca . 880 18 13 Palma. Islands in the \ ,,. ,.Mediterranean ...

BOOKL Nero Castilc includes the provinces of Madrid, CHíP. ir.

Toledo, Guadalaxara, Oença, and La Mancha, Popi and lias abundance of corn and winc. tbe Provbces- Of the province of Madrid the po- lation is 260,000 Toledo 334,000 Guadalaxara 114,000 Cucnça, 266,000 La Mancha 206,000

Total of the population 1,180,000

Two liundred inhabitants to a square leaguo.

Andalusia includes the kíngdom of Scville and the provinces of Córdova and Jaen. IVuits, wines, oil, corn, silk, cotton, cattle, and horscs, are its produce. Of Seville, the population is ... . 750,000 (Of which the City of Seville contains 90,000) Cádis 66,000 Córdova 266,000 (Of which the City of Córdova contains 32,000) Jaen 90,000 (Of which the City of Jaen contains 27,000) Total of the population 1,172,000 83 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. Grenada produces wine and the pomegranate K 0 m / ^ ~v~ *~ called after its name,J olives, lemons, oranges, raisins, Populationof ' 'O ' ' tic provincci, and other fruits. Grenada eontains of inhabitants . . 6G0,000 (And the City qfGrenada 52,000) Málaga eontains 40,000

< The produce of Murcia is wine, fruits, silk, honey, riee, vegetables, soda, &c. Its population is 340,000 (Of wljieh Carthagena eontains 20,000.)

Valência, the garden of Spain, produces silk to the value of a million and a half sterling, hemp, íkx, wool, oil, riee, wine, raisins, figs, dates, &e. The population about 900,000 (Of whieh the city qf 'Valência eontains 80,000 Alkant. . 20,000.)

Majorca, ineludes Majorca, Minorca, and'the Balearie Isles, of little utility other than as a Mediterranean station. The population of Majorca about 135,000 Minorca. ..." 30,000 Balearie Isles . 167,000 MILITAR? VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 89.

Catalonia is abundant in grass. rice, corn, vc- BO.OK r. o > ' ' CU AP. II. getablcs, oil. flax. and hemp. ^—^v-^-f ° . Populationof ItS popillation 814,000 *** provinceí. . . (Of which Barcelona nearly 100,000.) .

Arragon produces com, wine, oil, and fruits. Its population 624,000 (Of which the city of Saragossa 36,000.)

Navarre abounds in.wine, oil, corn, caítle, and iron. The population 30,000 .. (Of which Pampeluna U,000.)

Biscai/ (Viscãi/a) comprises the provinces of Guipuscoa,. and Dalava, called the Vasconnas. Their population about 450,0CO (Of which Bilboa contains about 12,000.)

Old Castile comprehends the provinces of Bur- gos, Soria, Segóvia, Ávila, and Montana; the cultivation hcre long presented a picture of the indolence of its inhabitants; it has some gardens and orehards; and, at the eity of Burgos, a snjall manufactory of leather. 90 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAlN" AND PORTUGAL.

B«2°*/' The population of Burgos is . . . 400,000

Populationv^TC^Í of ' Soria 170,000* thopnmflcw. Segóvia . . . . 170,000 ^v/fa 115,000 (Of which the citks qf Burgos and Segóvia contain about 13,000 each.)

Zeon has six provinces; Leon, Palencia, Toro, Xamora, Valladolid, and Salamanca. Its producc is fine wool. The population of the

province of Leont is . . 250,000 Palencia . . 112,000 Toro .... 150,000 Xamora . I 74,000 Valladolid . 200,000 Salamanca . 210,000

996,000 (Of which the city qf Valladolid contains 30,000 And that of Salamanca . 15,000)

"The fruit of the forest-clad hills of Astúrias is ma»,—hardy, brave, and industrious. The population is estimated at - - 400,000 (Of which Oviedo contains about 8,000) . MILITARY VI EW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 91

Gallicia affords fine pasturage, aed produces wine. It lias been considered as the best peoplcd Population of of any part of Europe. . thepnmnce*. Its population is 1,354,000 (Of which Ferrol conta ins £0,000)

Estramadura produces wheat, fruit, and wine. Its population 420,000 (Of which Badajos and Pla- centia contain 6,000 cach).

According to the census taken by the Spanish government in 1787, the emuneration amounted to a population of 10,268,150 souls.

Cities 145 Toams 4,572 Villages : . . . . 12,733 Husbandmai 907,197 Day-labaurers . 964,571 Artizans S70,989 Mamtfacturers 39,750 Domes ties 280,094 Persons belonging to the Mili- tary Tribunal 77,844? 92 CAMPAICNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

JJOOKI. Studcnts 50,992 CHAP. II- J Moriks 57,515 Census of Spain ' b i78r. Hidalgos, or Nobles 480,589 'Bachelors andJVidoxoers . . . 3,162,007

The enumeration of tbis census is greater by 1,108,151 than that of 1768; but tbis is to be understood as not arising from an increase of population but the superior correctness of it. Tbe former was takcn by dioceses, thelatter bygoveru- ments or provinces. By tbis census also tbe fact was obtained that the resourccs afforded by tbe vicinity of the sea, and perhaps the quality of the food supplied by that vicinity, accompanied by a fcrtile soil, are capable'of counterbalancing the mischiefs of a vicious ad minis tration. It is thus that Gallicia,. more than lialf of which is in the bands of.the clergy, a province without canais, navigable rivers, good roads, or any other brandi of industry tlian its cloth manufactory, navigation, and fisheries, but possessed of a soil capable of rearing every vegetable production, encompasscd on two sides by tbe sea, and above ali exenipt froin the Mesta, thougb' not tbe most extensive, is tbe most ])opulous, province of Spain. MIL1TARY VIKW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 93

Of the whole of thesc we shall presently take a "^^ regular view, after we have attended to a more im- ^^^7^ * portant brancli of the sitbjcct. ial787,

If, as it has been observed by one well versed Manncrs,cu*. jn Jiunian nature,* the very prejudices of a people are respectable, how rouch more is it necessary for military nien to become well acquainted with the manners andcustoms of those with«whom they are to act as allies, or even to oppose as enemies? It.is thus we are enablcd to conciliate or to exercise caution; and whoever regards the strategema- tical part of war will readily recognize the obligations lie may owe to the knowledge of a trifling custom. From the Moors, Spain received the prevailing taste for spectacles, tournaments, and the tilting of the maestranza; long and sounding names and titles; gallantry and the language of romance: from the African Berebs gravity of countenance and demeanour, which the most violent passions do not changc; and a suspicious" and vindictivc jealousy: from the Goths, frankness, probity, courage, and patríotism: the latter of them was confirmed by the Romans, who added the love of greatness; and theír own superstition, which, how-.

• Jcan Jactjues Rousseau. 9^ CAMPAICNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

ever, in the Spaniards has become absolntc devo- tion. Passion with thèm pervades cvery thing.

SrHalcba* The Spanish character is paticnt and religious, full of penetra ti on and discretion, but slow in deciding; with great sobriety,—so sobcr that tlie story of Strabo is still remembered, of a man who threw himself into a fire whcn charged with drunkenness. He is faithful, open, charitable, and friendly; generally virtuous ; but inscnsible to the charms of the conntry, congregating in cities, and therefore supine, except when roused by great occasions; ignorantonly from education. His po- litencss is haughty, but decent; his professions of good-will not Iively, but affectionate; his general manner is entirely his own.

The military virtues of the Spaniards in the wars of Italy and Portugal, and at the grand siege of Gibraltar, astonished the world: — without bread, water, or beds, none murmured, nor did obedience ever faíl.

LoyaHy. Tbey are loyal to their monarchs. The count d'AguiIar said to Philip V. on his life-guard3, " If your majesty had resolved to sleep in the great square at Madrid, you would have been in perfect safery, the rnarket would not have beguu beforc MILITART VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 95 nine o'clock, and ali the Castilians would have *™*£ served you as guards during the night." ^s-^v"*»*-1

Tliey are also extrcmely national:—" Where Natioa»uty: Madrid is, silence the world!"— says the frequent proverb, (donde esta Madrid calle el mundo); and again,—" Whcn the devi! offered ali the tempta- tions of the world, it was fortunate that Spain was hidden behind the PyreneesP The very catholio ism of an Irishman, or of a Frenchman, and even sometimes of an Italian, would not be generally admitted as a claim to the title of christian by the devout populacc.

They are brave to an exeess, but their bravery ovcr-heatcH biavcrj. is soon heated and cooled; passionate, they are liable to be pamc-struck, but their rage, though generally justly exeited, knows no bounds; they have often becn led to ill-treat prisoners, when. they coukl not secure them, which evinces its principie by beíng even reduced to terms a segurar el prisonero, the niaking surc of them.

The Spaniard expresses himself well and is Appcamncea. graeeful under his cloak; he wears and uses with skill a long sword; he prefers the easy round hat, and in his ordinary dr,ess the colour of black,. in a 96 CAMPAIGX9 IN SPAXN ANTD PORTUGAL.

militaryone hc seeks the gayest colonrs. He lives' as wcll in his general economy as—he can.

Tb'« kdies. - * Of the female character, in a work addresscd to military men, it is difficult to spcak. More va* riable, as in many other countries, than the male, the Spanish lady almost ahvays possesses charms- which it is dangerous even to describe. Let the amiable and polite young soldicr, full of chivalrous consideration, beware, and the fond. maid at home, fair holder of his early promises, guard his heart from—faces perfectly oval, hair of a fine clear auburn, large black eyes, and mouths- full of graces, exercised in modest altitudes and sim pie habits, that often recai to recollection the soft simplicity of Grecian beauty, charming with the delights of a thoúsand lovcs; countenances full of. sensibility and vivacity; and wanting nothing but an inclination to the guidarice of rcason to be the angels they so often represent in the' masque of cemedy.

Family affec- Who does not laud that commendable fecling of tjoa. the Spaniards which induces them never to discharge a domestic by whom they have been well served? What is more, those who served under the father and mother pass their feeble years and MTLITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 97. die under the same roof with those of the son; a *££*'• /- / circumstance which accounts for an extraordinary* Manners,*Y^* ^"cu*- retinue in the houses of the great. toa>$-

. The rosary, peeuliarly dedicated to the Virgin FmmsieUgwoi, ^ary> graces; and is placed to guard, the pcrsons of male and fcmale on every occasion; and a similar regard is paid to apparitions and sepulchres.* They strew their tombs with flowers, as did tneir fathers of Greece and Rome, and sprinkle them with the holy water, that the fire which purges the deceased of their sins may act more gently. The amiahle and innocent female is generally employed in the latter service to a father or brother; may shc nevcr, as prayed by a tender female writer, sprinkle the grave of her lover 1 Tlie ntmost romance of catholicism is here enjoyed.

The Spaniards íiever carry Iight into an apart- Domcstíc. ment without saying " Blessed be the holy sacra- ment of the altar," and are answered, " For ever." Theír salutation is " God keep you," and their farewel, " Go with God and the Virgin." The address on visiting is " Deo gratias, Ave Maria," which is answered, " Sine pecado concebida." Eas- ter week is tlie period of general communication and confession, aad though much violated is never- VOL. i. ii 98 CAWPAIGNS IN SPAIX AND FOJITUGAL.

*S**Í.Kií t^e^ess to be regarded % strangçrs with particular* respect Jlannerj, cus- teou. In ali the etiquettcs of soeial life the Spaniards are peeuliarly attentivc. Are you confincd by 511- ness, those wbose visits migbt not have -been cx- pected in health attend you. The birth-day <;om- pliments are sometiuies the only visit in the whole year.

Singular cos- Bleeding is so common among the ■ Spaniards, íotus. (partieularly the females,) that frequent blindness is supposed to bc the consequence. Instead of the arm it is nsually performcd m the hand or foot. Females are bled three or four times a month, and sick persons are usually expressed to be better after being merely bled as often.

Sueli are the general traits under this head which oceur as the most prominent at present. The provinces, formerly kingdoms, however, have preserved at least a distance of manner from the capital and from each other.

Tfie Spautsh The brave Asturians, possessing ai! the virtuous provinces. qualities of their countrymen, like the people of our own northern regions, are cbiefly eminent in civil servitude; and, if not exercised in refinement9> MILITARY VIEW OF TME PENÍNSULA. * 09

are at least minutely exact in the performance of B00Kr- * r CHA?. ir. - cvery duty.** iUanners,h "^"*"^ cu*» Of the Asturians, the love of Iiberty lias been toau- already noticed; it characterises their manners, and is quite necessary to bc allowed to the rude but honest peasantry in an estimate of them. Those of Galiida, in the same manner, úsually exercise their industry wherc it has been rendered difficult by the reíinements of a peculiar civilization. They represent the people of Auvergne or our own Welch, Scotcli, and Irish, mountaineers. The Castiliam are haughty, contemplative, and speak but little ; they are coldly polite, but free from affectation : mistrustful, and not giving their friendship till they have long studicd the character of the friend. They have genius, strength of mind, profound and solid judgements, and are adapted to the study of the sciences. Not a single house, says a religious traveller, is to be found in Madrid which does not posscss a portrait or bust of the Blessed Virgin. The consumption of flowers for her coronation is immense, and the labour of millincrs in her decoration mcessant The Virgin is the friend, con- fidant, and subject of adoration, of the Spaniard, and is supposed to be constantly watching over him. Hence the name of Mary constantly hangs on his lips, mixes in bis compliments, and influ- cnces his wishes. In speaking and writing his1 H2 100 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

appeal is ahvays to the Virgin. The ladies are the same; and this deity of catholicism is even Slatinet!, CUS- called upon in forming bllkts doux and the tenderest of assignations, It is in the ncighbourhood of the capital that the custom of premature burial so much pre- vailcd, that a lazy slceper would run the chance of being buried alive. Tbe Andalusian is much of what an Englishman might call the ." good fellow " of Spain, and is a very distinct character frora his countrymen; hc, kughs, drinks, boasts, cxaggerates, and bulhes, with the men; dances, gossips, and makes love, with the women; and makes vain ofTcrs of his purse, and is ready for pleasure to ali. Subtlety is the charactcristic of the inhabitants of Falência : from this province come the eliarla- tans of Spain : idle and insincere, tbey readily adapt themselves to ali things and ali persons. Catalonia is the nursery of arts and trades, Its inhabitants, induslrious, active, and laborious, have always considered themselves a distinct people, and have often evinced impatience of the indolenee of their government, and their countrymen of the other provinces. Their spirit has often reached revolt, and excited fears of their even attempting to separate from the parent-government The repeated divisions of Spain would naturally WILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 101 aíFect the character of thc inhabitants. About thc time of the Punic wars, it was dividcd into hither Manncrsj cus» and fartlier Spain, the former consisting of the lurai. provirices northward of the Ebro and the lattcr those beyond that river. Anothcr division took place in the time of Augustus. And again its division occurs into severa! small kingdoms, the appeilations of which are continued to this day. In the fifteenth ccntury it consisted of threc states, Castile, Aragar, and Portugal, the two first of which comprised the tcrritory of Spain. Such, howevcr, are thc principal characteristics to be remarked among the Spaniards; and whoever would succeed in cultivating the good-will of these inhabitants as allies, or successfully command them as soldiers, will not neglect to have reference to them on evcry occasion.

Thc climate is very variable: lhe more northem cun»«. provinces are wet and cold, the sou th wet and scorching, and the niiddle dr>r and hot; near the equinoxes it scldom rains in the southern and middle parts, which causes the air to be tranquil and excessively hot in .three summer months (June, July, and August); the nights, however,' are refreshingly cool. The droughts, to which lhe country is liable, have produced grcat cífects, as the conílagration of fores ts, particularly that of 102 CAMPA IGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

K ,e renecs m tne *?*°P u' ^ Py í seventeenth century, which sírním^ ^TlC<* "P É^e SP"nSS> an^ rent l^eeartn ^n Clifts, Still toiíu. perceivable. The heat of the soutbern provinces is generally allayed by the refresliing breezes from the mountains whieh run across the whole of Spain. Towards the north and north east mountains the coid is insupportable. The hills, extending from the Bay of Biscay to the southern mountains, coverecl with snow, are so moist as to af- fect fruit and grain, rust irou, and excite acid and putrid fermentation, as well as to destroy health, to whjch, perliaps, the diet in some parts of the Astúrias contributes; yet longevity is very general.

Civil econoiny. In a view of tlie civil economy of Spain, the ca» Madrid. pitai is the grand central object from which wc must set out. While many illustrious cities have become deserted villages, Madrid, from a mean town, built on a sterile spot, has become, in some respccts, one of the finest cities in Europe. It lias no suburbs; and announces by notliing the approach to a great metropolis. Itsoutline is formed by small domes and spires; in the distanee, the sno.w-topped mountains of Guadarama. - Reaching tbe banks of the Manzanares, a su- MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 103

B K L perb bridge, designed by John de Herrera, up- C°A°P „ wards of seven hundied rpaces in length, and about ^v-*-> ° CiTil econoniy. thirty broad, built with cut stones, and a parapet Madrid. breast high, announces the approach to. the royal residence, by the gate of Segóvia. Approacbed on the side of the Escurial, Madrid appears well. You cross a small forest of ash-trees, which exhibits severa! good points of view, with agreeable pieces of water. The small river of the Manzanares runs at some distance under the heights of Madrid. It is almost shallow enough in ali parts to be forded by carriages. It has a large bridge at Toledo, formed likc that of Segóvia, to guard against the overflowing of the river, which ordinarily ridicules the idea of a bridge. The gate of San Vicente is new, and the palace is approached through it by a steep ascent. It is in many respects superh, and possesses an iníinite variety of paintings, of the Spanish masters, and consequently of the religious school. Nearly in front of the palace is the armeria, or arsenal, in which is a collection of antient and foreign arms, in fine order and disposed with great care.— It comprises that of the antient American warriors, the armour and suit of mail of the kings of Spain, particularly St, íerdiuand, and did also the sword 104 CAMPA1GXS IX SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. vorn by Francis I. at the battle of Pavia, till tlic CHA.P. II. J K**~*~mm~> emperor Napoleon, by a politicai arrangement, pro- Madrid. cured it to be returned to liim by Godoy and Ce- vai los. The palaec of Buen Retiro cxhibits notbing re- ■ guiar or attractive in any o'ne point of view: thc gardens the same, notwithstanding several statues, and magnificent decorations. The antient palace commands a view qf the walk of the Prado, so much celebrated in every respect. * It forms a broacl walk, adorned with handsome fountains, and divided into avenues by rows of trees. It extends along tbc wbole of one side of the town. and is terminated at each end by one of the gates of the city, from which proceed the broadest and finest streets of Madrid. On the opposite side are tlie gardens and pleasure-grounds of the Retiro, lately degraded to a shooting- grourid. This is the promenade of the beau monde of Madrid, wliere ali, from the prince to the beggar, pass in review, and some consideration is necessary to the customs of tlie place. The citizen still preserves the remains of the antient toga. Ali the men wear cocketl hats, and smokc çigars, for which purpose boys run up and down with a kind of slow torch, which burns MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 105

B0OK l witliout flaming.° Water-ca rriers also vcnd the CHIP. II. - cool water from the neighbouring fountains: and ^--^v-^^ 0 ° Civil ecoiiojcjr. the cries of fire and water are prevalent in the Madrid, mingled buz of the croud. It is here that the dress and manners of the ladies are such as tnight cnchant every beholder. Tbeir simple and elegant dress, veils ouly half covering their faces, a walk of frecdom, and looks attractive witliout immodesty, are a small part of the charms which thrill every breast. At sun-set the church and convent bells give tbc signal for the evening prayer to the Virgin: a general silence ensues, and every being is, for a moment, recalled to himself and his devotions. Every thing is soon resumed, but for that, certainly awe- ful moment the solemnity is not to be interrupted. There are in Madrid four literary academies, of considerable standing; that of Spanish, cmployed like those of France and Italy on a Dictionary, and the collátion of natíonal works: that of History, oceupied in preserving the historical monuments of their countr}', and which did itself so mu eh honour by the liberal manner in which it received, frem the hands of a foreigner, a histery of their own polities and discoveries. To it Dr. Robertson received, on the publication of his America, ad- missíon as a member, through M. Campomanes and Lord Granfeley, ambassador, anda translation 106 CAMPAI0NS IN SPAIN AND POUTUGAL.

K L was set on ot to ^«AP II f° ' ^ cxecctecl by Doa liamon de

Civil^""v^"^ cconomy. Guevara.v The work, however, became obnoxiuns Madrid. t0 some parties more politie than wise, and what are enlightened academies to the expedieneies of politicai power ? It lias been well observed of the Spanish literature, that learning lias never flourished enough in Spaíu and Portugal to forni the taste of the inhabitants; and genius and imagination will not atone for the want of taste and erudition in a prose writer, Hence these eountries are searcely known in the republic of letters but by their poets. Cervantes himself must be cliicfly considered a poet. Ca- moens entirely so. . The Spaniards call their nine most favonrite authors the nine Spanish muses. These consist of Garcilaso de la Vega; Dou Esteben de Viilegars; Quevedo; Count Bernardino de Rebolledo; Lu- percio Leonardo de Argensola, and his brother Bartolomé; father Luis de Leon; Lope de Vega; and Don Francisco de Baja y Aragon, prince of Esquiíaehe. Many of equal, and some superior, merit are excluded from the list.

Madrid contains 15 gates, 18 parishes; 35 con-* vents of monks, and 31 of nuns ; 39 colleges, hospitais or houses of eharity; between 7 and 8,000 dwell- jng-houses, and about 140,000 inhabitants. MILITAR* VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 107

The principal streets are wide, straight, and clean; among the most populous are those of Al- c^cco cala, Atocha, Toledo, and the Calle Grande, or Madli(L great street. The houses are built of brick, not very large, with a few exceptions. The squares are not regular. The principal are those of San Joachim, Sol, Lasganitas, San Domingo, La Cevada, and the Plaza Mayor. The latter is 1536 feet in circuit; in the centre of which is held a market. The houses in it are numerous, five stories high, ornamented with balconies; a piazza beneath the houses is formed round the squares. The other streets and squares have fountains of excellent water : the air is puré; the weather variable. The verdure and shade of the banks of the Manzanares are the principal beauties of Madrid; an extensive canal, long begun, will add to them, and to the Utilities of the placc.

From Madrid post-roads lead in various direc- pMu0ad$. tions, under arrangements which have their certa in excellences. - The road from Madrid to Cadiz is the one which prineipally furnishes post-horses for carriages. The royal post-office at Madrid keeps riding horses, tp the number of twenty-cight and up- 108 CAMPAIGNS XN SPAIN AND PORTUGALi

só OK L wards; and, at every post-house in Spain, six at ^^r*J least are kept, of which two are ahvays in readi-1 Measured roads ness. They are small but serviceable. The first range of these post-roads are from Ma- drid to the Royal Residences.

From Madrid to S. Ildefonso'. Commmicatwns between lhe royal Re~ From Madrid to Abulagas - - 2 sidences and the chttf Roads: from Las Matas ------2 S. Ildtfonto to the íloads leading to Fonda cie la Trinidad - 2 Andalusia, Barcelona, Valência, Mur- Salincras ------2 cia, and Carihagena. Navalejos ------2 Castrejones ------2 From S.Ildefonso toCastrejones 2 S Ildefonso 2 Navalejos ------2 Salincras ------2 7 14 Fonda de Ia Trinidad - 2 Las Matas ------2 Abulagas ------2 From Madrid to Aronjaej. Madrid ------2

From Madrid to los Angeles - 2 7 14 Espartinas ------3 Aranjuci ------2

3 7 At which lattcr place each of th* above great roads corumences.

From Madrid to the Escurial. From S. Ildefonso to the Road to From Madrid to Abulagas - - 2 Frunee. Puenle de Ketaraar - - 2 Galapagar ------2 From S. Ildefonso to Collado The Escurial 2 Ucrmoso ------4 La VeliHa 3 8 Las Navas ------3 Fresnillo de la Fucnte * 4 From Madrid to Vario. 1 14 From Madrid to Pardo

Tfiis is the first stage upon the road- which begins at Madrid.

The Spanisb lcague is cqual to four English miks. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 109

From S. Ildefmss to the Road to From Jos Angeles * Measured road», Castile, Gaíicia, and Astúrias. Madrid - -

From S. Ildefonso toVabequila 3J VUlacastin -

HCTC we enter upon the varioui roads leading from the capital.

This "ia lhe first stage ou the road to From Aranjuez to the íload leading to Ca»tilc. Portugal and Estremadura, *

From Aranjue* to Illescas - - 4} Trom S. Ildefonso to the Road leading Valmojado ------4 to Estremadura and Portugal,

FroniS-IldefonsotoCastrcjonos 2 »4 Navalejos ------2 Salincras ------g First stage upon th is road. Fonda de la Triuidad - 2 las Matos ------2 From Aranjua to llie Roads leading to Abulugas ...... $ ihe Kingdoms of Valência and Murcia. Mostoles ------. 4 FrornArwijucztoFuentcduena 7 16 Tarancou ------

10 Here we enter npon the road to Estremadura and Portugal. Thls la the first stage upon thU road.

From Aranjua tojhe Road leading m From Aranjua to the Convent of Car- ! Barcelona and Italu, tonar. From Aranjuez to Bayona de From Aranjuez to Villamcjor 3 Tajugua ------2 la Venta de Valdecaba 2 Arganda ------4 • Chueca --...-.. 3 Loeches ------2 Cuerva ------j

8 To the Convento dei Castaoar

15 To La Venta de Meco Si lli From Aranjua to Yebenes.

Here the road from Madrid to Bar- From Aranjuez to Castillejo - 2 celona begins. La Casa d'Arabere - • 11 La Casa de los Padres d« San Pedro Mártir'- - 3 from Aranjua to the Roadt leading to Mora ------2 France, Old Castile, Galieia, and ♦ Yebenes t the Astúrias, a 10 From Aranjuez to Espartinai 2 ]10 CÍAMPAIGNS IJÍ SíAIN AND PORTUGAL,

PO OK I. «TACE6. 1BAOTJE5. CIIAP. II.

Heaewred roads* From the Ftcurial to the Roads Icoding From Pardo to the Roads to the King- to Andalusia, Barcelona, Vottncia, domt nf Valência, Murçia, Arragon, Murcia, and Carthagena, and Andalusia.

From theEscurial to Galapagar 2 Puente de Ref aniar 2 From Pardo to Madrid Abulagas - - - - - 2 Madrid 2 1

8 Here we entei opon the roads to the above placts. Where the above roads commence.

From tke Etcuriat to the Road leading From Pardo to the Road to France. to France.

From tb« Escurial to Guadar- From Pardo to Alcobendas - - 3 rama ------2 Salineras - •* • - - 2 Chozas ------S£ CibanUlas ----- 2 YVTiicb is lhe first stage oo the 8^ road.

Here the road to France begins. From Pardo to the Road 10 Old CastiU, Galicia, and the Aituriaf. Trem the Eicwróí to the Road leading to Olá CastUe, Galicia, and the At- UiriaS. From Pardo to the Puente de Returaar ----- 2* From the Escurial to Guadar- rama ------2 H

Here we follow the great road. Where each of the above roads begins. From Pardo to the Road to Estremadura From the Ftcurialto the Road to Eitre- and Portugal. maduraand Portugal.

Frora the Escnrial to Villanue- Frora Pardo to Abolagas - - vn de la Canada 3 Mostoies -..-.-. NavalcaiDcro - - - 3 I Vi

Which is the first stage on the road H«re-the grcal road çoramenecs. to Estremadura. MILITART VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 111

BOOK r. . , CU AP. II. ExPENSES of a Posi-Chaise or Gig from MADRID to the v^-»-Y-^j ROYAL RES.OENCES. JJSÍEk tercdhy prcscnc Jlegviaicd by tht Board for tuperintending the RuUs of Potting throughout eircnmstaiicej. the Kingdom,

To Aranjueí From MADRID lo PARDO. To S. Ildefonso. iklhe EscuriaL

Reais Vcllon.' R. VD. R. rn.

A palr of horses ...... 45 29-i 616 With a post-chaise ... 45 336 700 Four roules ...... 39 196 420 Chaisewith room for two persons ... S2 ir5 364 A more elegant one .... 36 189 392 If the cliaise belongs to the travei ler - - 36 147 308 A gig 24 126 266 A better kind ...... 28 146 294 If the gig beloDgs to the traveller - - - 20 98 210

^ NOT«,—SometLing must he glven both to the postillion and the man v»ho «its upon tlie shafts, at every stage. When travelling with a pair of horses, the former expeets four reais, and the latter two. When therc is orJy one poitillion, four realj are generally giveD at each stage. • The Real deVellon, or of copper, is,io value, something less thaa threepence.

POST-ROADS from Madrid to the variou* Chies of Na- xarre, Arragon, Catalonia, Castiie, Perpignan, and Major ca.

STAOS». LEAOlfES. STAOES.

From Madrid to Guaâalaxara, Cala- Almadrones .-.-.* gj Measuted road» tayiid, SaragiHM, Fraga, Lerida, Torremocha ...... 3 Cervcra, Barcelona, Cerona, Per- Bujanabal ...... 2£ pignan, and Palma, tu the Uland of Lodares ...... 2§ Majoro*. Areos — ...... 2§ Monreal d'Ariza « - - 3 From Madrid to Torrejon d'Ar- Cetioa ---..-.- 2 dot ...... 4 Rubierca ------2 Ja Venta de Meco - - - 3$ Ateca.-...-.-. \ Guadalaxara ..... 3£ Calatayud ...... 2 Tonija ...... 3 _Grajtnego« ----.. 3 15 40 112 CAÍ1PAIGNS IN SPAIN ANP POIITUGAL.

ITiflEJ.

Mcasurcd roads ^rota Calataynd toFresno - - 3 Figurcas ------3 Almunia ...-.-- 3 La Junquem (last stage in la Venta de la Raraera - 3 Spaisi) ------j- 3 la Muela ...... 2 Boulou 3 Garrapinillos, or Venta Pcrpignan ------4 dcl Leon ------2 Saragossa ------2 54 14S$

21 55 From Barcelona to Palma, in Majorco. From Saragossa to laPuebladc Alfindcti ------By sea ------50 Osera ------la Venta de Santa Lúcia Bujaraloz --.... NOTE. — We tnay alio go from Candasnos ------Madrid to Dcnia, and there erabark for Palma, which is the shorteat way, 26 70 whcn a ship is rcady to sail.

To la Venta de Fraga, or Buars 2 Fraga 2 From Madrid to Siguenza. Alcaraz .-.----.- 3 Lérida ------2 8 From Madrid to B uj a r- raba!, by the forego- 30 79 ing route ----- 35

To Benlloch 2 To Sigueiua -----... 3 Gomes - • S Villagrasa 3 28 Cervera - 3

34 90 From Madrid to Tampeluna and To la Pansedella Bayonnt. elC rancho, or Guacho - - Igualada ------2 9 From MadridtoLod ares by the foregoing route 27$ Castd OH 2* Font dcl Codul «* To Atiradas ..... 5 Martorell ------3 Almazan — - — ... 31 San Feliu ---.-... 3 Zamajon •------_ 34 Barcelona ...... 2 Ilinojosa — ...... 4 A greda 3| 42 110 Cintruenigo -••-... 5 Valtierra ••---... 4 To Moncada - - - . 2 Morunclo - - - 2 Mareilla ------3 . Tafalla --,----_. 4 Unas - - - - - 2 San Scloni - - - S Otriz 2J Ilostalrich - - ■ Pampcluna ---...- $t las Mallorquinas ? Gerona - - - - 4 20 ' 69

49 12?J To Ostríz 2 LanU 2 To Baseara 3 - 22 73 MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 113

To Berrueta 2 Anzanigo ...... 4 Measnred roads Maya 9 Bcrmues ------2 Aooa 2 Jaca ------3 Oslark - ■; — ...... 2 Bayoune ------2 27 77

27 83 To Campfrane ------3 Urdo» 3 Bedeus 3 From Madrid to Seria. Oleron ------4

11 From Madrid to Alma- 31 90 jcan, by the forcgoing IOUIC -----.-- S6 To Soria ---' 6 Communications from Saragossa, Tentei, Stgorbe, and Valência. 12 42 From Saragossa to Liaria - - - 3 Longare» ------4 From Madrid to Tarragona, Maynar ------5 Baguéna ------4 30 From Madrid to Lêrl- Carain Real - 4 da by the forcgoing Valia/rança ------2£ routc ------80 Villarquemado ----- 5 Juncda ------4 Terucl ..... 5 Vinaja ------4 Morublanch 4 8 324 Valls 3 Puigdelfi Si To la Pnebla de Valverde - - 4 Tarragona ------2 Sarrion --.------3 las Barracas ------3 36 99* Segorbe ------5

12 47J From Madrid to Réus. To Murviedro ------5 34 From Madrid to Valls Valência .--.----- 4 bythepreceding routc 95 14 56* To Alcovcr ------2 Réus 3 From Saragossa to Borja, Tarragona, s$ too and Tudela, in Navarre.

From Saragossa to Alagon - - 4 From Madrid to Jacas and Oleron, in < France. 1 4

21 From Madrid to Sara- To Borja - - - 6 gcssn by tlie foregoing Tarragona ------4 route ------56 Tudela 4 Zuera ------4 Guirea ------3 4 18 • Ayerbt -----*-- 6

VOL, I, 114 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Measiircd roads From Saragotsa tolluuca and Barbastro. na, Alicante, Orihuela, and Mareia. At this iast town we resume tlie post- Fiom Saragosja to Zucra - - - 4 road» to Madrid, Cartbagena, Anda- Almudcbar 5 lusia, and other places. Iluesca ------3 See the road from Valência to Mur- Vclillas 3$ cia, page 115, and hy the same post: las Zcllas s| road we arrive at lhe sea-port towns Barbastro ------3 of Pucrto, Cullcra, Gaudia, and De- nia, page 116. 21

From Barcelona ta Mataro. See the road to Valência and Bar- celona, below; by lurning back, we From Barcelona to Moncada 2 çan go not only to Valência by the Mataro ------post-road, bot al$o to Madrid, Co- n Tunna, and other placcs. From Valência we pursuc the post- road to the cíties of Sati Felipe, Xixo-

POST-ROADS from MADRID ta the principal Cities of Falência, Catalonia, Murcia, and Perpigium.

X.EA0UE8.

From Madrid to Valência. Tortos*, Tar- la Venta de Pojos. - - 4 ragona, Barcelona, and i'crpignan. Valência ------3

Frora Madrid to Vaciamadrid 3 19 54i Peralesdc Tajuna - - - 3 Fuemidneua de Tajo - SJ To Muríiedro 4 Tarancon ------3 Nules 3 Saclices ------3 Castclbn de la Plana - - 3 Montalbo ?j Oro pesa ------3 Viltar de Saz ----- g| Torrcblanca ------2 Olivares --- — ... 3 Vinaroz ------4 Bonache d'Alarcon - - 3 Ulldccona ------4 la Motilla dcl Palanear 4 Tortosa - 3 C.istillejo de Iniesta - - 2 la Mitiglanilla ----- 2 27 Villagordo de Gabriel - . 3 Caudcte 2 Rcquena ------3 To Venta de los Ajo* 2 Siete-Aguas ------5 la Venta de Bunol - - - . 2 28 82Í MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 115

I.KODEJ. LEAOUES.

To Pcrello 3 To Los Bagnos------3 Measured roads Cambrils - - <5 Lobosillo -.--.--.- S Réus - - - 2 Carthajfcna ------3 Turragoaa ------2 24 751 32 95J

To Torre ilen Berra ----- 2 Yendrcll ..... 2 From Madrid to Alicante. Yíllafrancu d cl Panades - 2| Yallirana ...... 3 12 Froia Madrid to Alba- San Felicú 2 ecte, by the preceding Barcelona ------2 route ------— 40 To Pctrola 5 38 109 Montealegre ------3 Yecla------4 Sax 5 FromMadrid to ífiirrà and Cartila- Monforte 3 gem. Alicante 4

From Madrid to Yaciatnadrid 3 18 6i Pcrales de Tajuna - - - 3 Fiicntiduegna de Tajo - 3$ Tarancon ------3 Torrubía ------2^ Communications betwrrn Vakncia and Ontsnaya ------4 tltcCilirs of San Felipe, Xiima, Ali- Belmonte de la Mancha \ cante. Orihuela, Murcia, and CaríAa- 1'Alaucrir, de los Frn\ les 2£ gena. S. Clemente de la RI an- cha 2* Minaya ------3 From Valência to Almusafes- - 3 la Roda 3 Aleira --- 3 l;i Gineta 3 San Felipe ------3 Albncete ------3 Atz.ineta ------3 Pozo de la Pf gna 2£ Alcoy - 3 la Venta Nucva ... - 3 Xíxima ------4 Tobarra 3 Alicante ------4 Elche 4 16 48£ Albatera -- - 3 Orihuela ------2 NOTB.—Frorn Tobarra, the orrlina- ry couricr passes on to HcIIin, msikíng 10 52 a circuít of hnlf a Icagvie, which may bc dispeused with oneuraordinary oc- To Murcia ------4 casioiu. 11 36 To la Venta de Vinatea • - - 2£ Pucrto de la Mala Mugcr - 2| Cieta 3 Pucrto de la Lcsilla - - - - 'A From Valência to Grenada. Lorcjui ------a| Murcíâ ----- 3 11 To Mureia, by the preceding Toutc - - • - - SG 21 Ói±

1 2 116 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

STAGES. LKAOUES.

Measuxed roadj From Murcia to Lorca, Bata, Gtuidix, and Grenada. 12 40 From Mureia to Lcbrilla - - - 4 Xotaria - — ------4 Tliis samccommuiíication istheroad Lorca .------4 from Grenada to Guadix, and from thence tlie road Icads to Barcelona and 8 12 Perpignan in France. We niay also go from Valcncia to Saragossa and to To La Venta dei Rio • • - - 3 Olcroii in France, and variou» otber Los Velez ------4 placcs, as luay be easily seen from lhe Lai Vertk-ntcs ------4 tuap. Cutlar 3 From Valência to Denia. Baza ------4 From Valência to Alniusafes - 3 8 30 Cullcra * Gandia------3 To Gor 4 Dcnia ------4 Guadix ------S 4 1'i 10 37

POST-ROADS from MADIUD to tke chief Cities of Estre- madura and Portugal.

LZiCUES.

From Nttdrid to Tabntra de la licyna, Lugar Nucvo, one Icague, Truxillo, Mtriâa, Badajoz, and Lis- and to Las Casas dcl Pu- bonne. erto be Mira vete, auotlier Icaguc -....- 2 From Madrid to Mostoles - - 3 Jaraycejo ------2 Navalcarncro ----- 2 Carrasca) ------2 Valmojado ------2 Truxillo ---- 2 Santa Cruz dei Rctamar 3 filaqueda ------2 16 41 Santa Olalla una y ai Bra- vados ------3 To Las Casas dcl Puerto de Sotocochinos ------2 Santa Cruz------3 Tala vera dela Reyna - 2 Meajadas- --..---- 3 La Venta de la Guia - - • 3 8 19 San Pedro de Merida- - • 3 To La Venta de Pelavenegns 4 Merida -- 2 La Calzada de Oropesa - - 4 , Ptrales 3 Navalmoral de Plascncia - 4 58 AJmaraz ---.----- 3 22 MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 117

LEACUES,

To Talavcra la Real 3 From Madrid to IXcrena. Measured roadí Badajoz ...... 3 24 From Madrid to Zafra - 64 24 6-1 To Bienvetiida ------4 To Yelves 3 Llcrena 3 Alcravizas ------4 Estremoz --- — ---- 2 26 71 La Venta dei Duque - - - 3 Arrayolos - — ----- 3 Communications between Badajoz and Montemor-novo ------3 Albuquerque, Alcântara, A^c. and Be- Las Ventas Nuevas - - - - 4 nevcnte, where xoe fina thefirit Uagc Los Pregones 3 on the road to Castíle, Galicia, and Aldeã Gallega ------5 the Astúrias, Lisbonne ------3 From Badajoz to AJbuquerque 6 To Merabrio --- - 6 ' 34 97 Alcântara - * 5 The last st age from Aldeã G aí lega to Lisbon is the Crossing of the Tagus. 17 In Portugal it issettled lhat uavellers should pay for two horse» if upon the 3 king's sçrvice 10 vellon reais for each league, and on ordiuary occasions 11 20 reais and a half, as in Spain. To Coría - - - , 4 From Madrid to Plascncia and Qoria, La Moraleja ------2- 12 From Madrid to Alma- Gata 3 Roblcda 6 raz, by the foregoing Ciudad-Rodrigo ----- 5 routc 33 To La Venta de la A'azabona 4 9 40 13 37 To Martin dei Rio 5 To Mal partida 3 Boveda de Castro- - - - - 5 Placencia .....-.- \ Gabradilla 3 Galisteo ------3 Salamanca ------4 Coria ------5 13 57 17 49

To La C aliada de Don Diego 4 La Boveda de Toro - - - 4 From Madrid to Zafra, and Xera de Ledesma ------4 tos Caballeros. Zamora ------5 21 From Madrid to Mérida by the foregoing route 55 17 74 ToTorremejia ------'i, Almcndralejo ------2 To Pegnansende ------5 Zafra 5 Ricgo ----- 3 Xeres de los CabaUeros- - 5 Benevente ------4

25 69 90 86 118 CAMPAIGXS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

ROOK I. STAGKS. LEAG0ES. ciiAP. ir. —

Measurcd roads From Boda',ot t0 StTÍ^' ^\ ". the Santa Olalla 4 Jint stage on lheL road ta Audafusia.- Ilnnquillo - .---.- 4 Venta de Guíllcna - - - - 3 From Badajoz lo Albuera - - 4 Santipouce - - 3 To Santa Marta ...... 3 Sevillc 1 Los Santos de Maymoiia • 5 Fiieiite de Cnutoí .... 4 10 34 Monaslerio • - - 3

POST-ROAOS from MA»RI o lo the chie/ Towmin La Mancha, and thejour Kingdoms of'Andaluzia.

LEAGUE

Trem Madrid to A ranjuet, Andujor, Cor» To Cortijo de Mango-negro - - 3 dota, Ecj/a, Carmona, Stvillt, Xtrct dt ia Frontera, Puerto de Santa Ma- ria, and Cadiz. To La Carlota 3 From Madrid to Los Angeles - 2| Kcija ...... 4 Bipartirias ----- — 3 Aranjucz - — ..... g| 30 74J Ocagua-

23 5*f 40 103 To Aldeã dei Rio 3* To Pocrto de Santa Maria - - 2f Carpio ------3£ Islã de Lcon - - 3 Cosaltlanca dei Rey - - 2* Cadiz 3 Córdoba , 2$ 43 1114 37 - - 64} MTLITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 119

On the post-roads from Madrid to Aranjwz, Andujar, Córdova, Ecija, Car- mona, Scillc, Xercs de la írontero, Port Saint Mary and Cadiz, pcrsons luay travei and ride post in chatse?, or berlitw, with llic privilege of compelling the postillions to drive at the rate of a Icague and a quarter an hour: the ibllowiiig ftf,>a«urtvl mad* are tbe piices paid in reais vellon.

***** M^S ■£ ^r-

l' I Nuraber of 5J«

Leagues from 1 =c s 8 s 111ta p v , MADRID. a o 5 s M e v v s ~i.i h h. PH

BATES OF POSTISC.

ToAranjuez 8 229 117 234 Andujar S2| 1298 627£ 12574 Córdova 64 1586Í 763 152 Ecija 74* 1826| 878J 17í Carmona 83Í 2042$ 981; 197C Seville 89| 2186J 1050Í 2108^ Xeres 101 24621 1170: 2368 Puerto 103Í 2570$ 1232; 2476| Cadiz I09f] 2667 1277: 2568

LEACXJES. STAOKS. lEAOtJES.

To Pinos Puente -..---- 5 From Madrid to Jaen, Alcala la Real, Grenade -• 3 Grenada, and Motril. Alhendin ..--.-.-. 4

23 From Madrid to A ad ujar, 29 76§ by the forincr route - 52| To Pinos dei Vali© To Torre Ximeno 5 Benaudalla ------Alcandete ...... 4 Motril 4 Alcala Ia R<-al 3 32 87J 26 64£ 120 CAMPA1GNS IN SPA1N AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKI. STAG És. LEAOUES, LBAOCES. CH AP. II.

Measured roads From Madrid to Ronda, St. Rock, Gi- braltar, Algairus, and Ceuta. From Madrid to Ubcda and Bazca, 30 Frora Madrid to Ecija, 21 Frora Madrid to Baylen, by a former route - - 74£ by thc forracr route - 4?£ To Osuna ...... 5 To Linares --- 2 Saucejo ------.... S Ubeda 2 Ronda ...... 6

23 514 32 88$ To Gansio -.-...--.- 5 ToBazca 1 St Rocb 6

34 99$

From Madrid to iMcena, Antequera, To Gibraltar by Algeziras - - 2 Málaga, and MarbeUa. 35 101|

23 From Madrid to And uj ar, To Ceuta by 1'Estrecho S by a formcr route - - 52| To Porcuna 3 36 104$ Baena- ...... 5 Lucena ----.----- 4 For the last stage, frora St Rocli to «6 64$ Ceuta, perroission rnust be obtaincd frora the general comrnanding tbe Spa- aish lioes before Gibraltar. To Benamcn -----.-.- 3 Antequera ------4 Frtwi Madrid to Toledo and Orgaz.

28 71* From Madrid to Getafo - - - . 2| To Illescas 4 To Málaga -.---.. ... 3 Cabapnas de Ia Sagra - - - 3 Toledo 3 29 . 79J 4 12$ To Marbella 5 To Orgaz 5 30 84J 5 m MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 121

Measured roada POST-ROADS from MADRID to the chief Cities of Old Castile, Las Montagnas, Rioja, Navarre, Biscay, and Bayonne.

From Madrid to Burgos, Viciaria, lrun, The last stage in Spain on the roa d and Bayonne. to Francc.

From Madrid to Aleobendas - 3 To San Juan de Lu» ----- 3 San Augustin ----- Si Uriarte 2 Cabanillas --. . 3 Bayonne ------2 Buytrago- ----.-. 4 Somosierca --.---. 3 35 97i Castillejo ------3 Frcsnillo de Ia Fuente - 2§ La Onrubin------3 Aranda de Dueio- - - - 3 From Madrid to Santander. Gumiel de Izan - - - - - 2 Bahabon - - J 15 From Madrid to Burgos, Lerma --. --. 3 by the foregoing ro .te 42§ Madrigalcjo ------2í To Guermeces ..... 4 Sarraeia ------3 Basconcillo» ------5 Burgos -----.... 2 Canduela -.--..--- 4 Reynosa ------4 15 42} Molledo 4 Toirelavega ------4 To Quintaoapalla - - 3 Santander ------4 Caitil de Feones ----- 3 Eriviesca --..-.-.. 2 £2 71$ Cubo 3 Ameyugo ------3 To Santogna ------5 Miranda de Ebro - • 2 J La Puebla de Arganzon - - 3 Victoria- .--- 3 23 76\ ~23~ 65 From Madrid to St. Sebastian. To Salinas de Lenlz ----- 3J Mondragon 2 30 From Madrid to Urnieta, San António de Vergara - - 2 by the foregoing route 83 To St. Sebastian .--..-- 2 36 ~7ãi SI 85 To Villareal de Urrechu - - - 3 Villafranca de Guipuzcoa - 3 Tolosa -••--..... 3 Urnieta •---.-.... 3 From Madrid to Bilboa, Oyarzun ------._ Irun ...... 21 From Madrid to Miranda, by the foregoing route 59 S3 ~ 90* To Bcrgueuda 3 122 CAMPAIGXS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK I. STAOE9. LEJ1GUIS. CHAP. 11. ■■

Mcasured road» Venta de! Hambre - - - - 4 Froro Burgos to Celada 4 Ordugna ------1 Villaodrigo ------4 Areta 3 Torrequeroada ----- 4 BilboB 3 Bagnos ------3 La Venta de Trigneros - 3 26 73 Valladolid 4

6 22

Comtminicatiant from Burgo$ to Valla- ToValdestillas 4 dolid and Medina dei Campo, being Medina dcl Campo - - - - 4 tbefirst stage on the road to Madrid, Lton, Cíilicia, and the Asturiat. 8 30

POST-ROADS from MADRID to the chief Cities in the Kingdoms of Leon, Golicio, and the A&turios.

LF.AOUES.

From Madrid to Àtíorga, Betunios, Co- To Astorga- 3* rvgna, and FerroL 21 From Madrid to Abidagas - - 2 Pueuie dcl Rctamar - - 2 To Mairatnal ------3i Gala pagar ------2| Meinbibre ------. 3| Guadarmina ------3 Cubitlos ------2$ La Ftmda de San Rafael lZ\ Villafranca dei Vierzo - 3 Yillacasliii - - ■» - - - - 3 Rmialar ------4 Lahajos ------2 La Venta de Noceda- - 1 Adrtnero ------2 Becerrea ------•■ l Sobrado ----•-•« 3 8 19 Lugo (not a post-tOWfl) • S

To Arevalo 3 30 84* Ataquines ------3 Medina dei Campo - - - - 3 To Valdomar - - - 3 llucda 2 Guttiriz - - - - 3 Tordesillas 2 Monte Salguejro Vega de Valdetroneos - - 2 Betanzos - - - - % Vi liar de Frades ----- 3 Villaipando 4 34 95§ San Estébau dei Molar - - 2 Benavente ------2 To La Corogna 3 La Pucnte de la Bisana - - 3 La Bagneza ------4 35 98|

U 33 MILITARY VIEV/ OF THE PENÍNSULA. 123

6TA0ES. LEiCUIS. LEAOUE8. BOOKI.

' From Madrid t» í*on> Oviedo, and thc Vega de Terá 3 Ports if Gijon and Ávila. Monibuey ------3 Measured road* Remesal ------3 18 From Madrid to Benc- Requejo de Sanabria - - - 3 vento, by the forego- Luvian S§ ing routc ------45 Cagniso ------3| To Villaqucxida ------S Navallo ------S Toral de los Guzmancs - - 2 Verin -- — ------4 Ardur ------3J Abividcs ------S Lcon 3 Alloriz , 3 Orense ------4 22 56* 30 84 To La Robla 4 Buiza 3 To Pigsor ---- Pajarcs- -«.------4 VHlanucva de la Gesta - - 4 Vega ------4 Castrovile ------4 Oviedo ------6 Santiago --■*------4

27 76* 34 98

To Canal - 4 Paulo- . 3 From Oviedo to cach c-f the two Corogna 3 ports of Gijon and Avilcsis five leagues. S? 1084 From Madrid to Salamanca anà Ciiidad Rodrigo. From Madrid to Tuy. 9 From Madrid to Arévalo, by lhe foregoing route 22 30 From Madrid to Orense, To Orcajo de las loires - - - 5 by the preceding route 84 Villoria- 3 To JVibadavia * Salamanca ------5 Franqueyra ------3 Codcsas ------2 12 3? Tuy 2

To Cabradilla - - - 4 34 95 Boveda de Castro- - - - - 3 Martin dei Rio ------5 Ciudad-Rodrigo ----- 5 From Madrid to Pontevcàro. 16 M 30 From Madrid to Orense, by the precediog route 84 To Masidc 3 from Madrid to Orente, Santiago, and Boberas 2 Corogna, Cerdcdo ---- 4 San Jorge de Sacos- - - - 2 18 From Madrid to Bena- Ponte vedra------3 vente, by tbe foregoing roule 45 35 "~98~ To Sitrama ------3 124 CAWPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKL ÍTA0E8. LlACtJES. LEACCES. CHAT. II. ,

Measured roads From Madrid to the Port of Vigo. and, from Seijo to Ferrol, is only a leaguc by sea; th is is better than go- 32 Frora Madrid to Fran- ing up to Corogna. queyra, by the foregoing route - - - - • 91 To Puente de Aias------2 From Madrid to Vailodolid and Burgof, Ponigno - - - - 2 which is the fint tUiçe on the road to Vigo - 2 France, SanUmdçr, Bilboa, and other citits. 35 97 11 From Madrid to Mfdina dcl Campo, by the foregoing route - - - 28 From Madrid to Mondognedo. To Valdestillas 4 Valladolid 4 30 Frora Madrid to Lugo.by tbe preccding toute * 84* Beudia ------3 13 S6 Reygosa --..--.-- 3 To Venta de Trigueros - - - - 4 Mondognedo -...-.. 3 Bagnoa --.------3 Torrequernàda --.--. 3 33 93^ Villaodrigo ------4 Celada 4 Burgos ------4 From Madrid to Ferrol. 19 53 34 Frora Madrid to Betan- io$, by the foregoing route ------95j From Madrid to Toro and Zamora. To Cavarias ------3Í Ferrol - - --- Ú 14 From Madrid to Vega de 36 101 Valdetroncos,by a for- mei toute ------34 To Toro 3 Zamora ------5 Frorb Corogna to Ferrol, by se a, is 4 or 5 Icagues; frora Betanzos we may 16 42 ai» go to Scijo, wbicb. is 4 leágucs, MILlTARY VIEW OF T!IE PENÍNSULA. 125

Measured roads. TABLE of the NUMBER of LEAGUEsyVom MADRID to the chief Cities and Totens of Spoin, by the Post-Roaâs, zeith tvhich the Postmasters are authoriseâ to charge Coiiriers, or other Perso7i$ travelling Post.

The Citie$ and Towns through tehich títc Pott passetfoUow in alphabetical Order.

Pages Dist from Madrid Pages Dist. from Madrid *here the roads in posting where the roads in posting are to be found. (cagues. are to be faund. I cagues.

118 Aranda de Duero - - - - 28 A. 108 Aranjuez ------8 From Madrid to 111 Arcos, in Aragon ----- 30 123 Ardor 53| 123 Abavides 77 122 Arévalo 22 100 Abulagas ------2 122 Areta 70 122 Adancro 19 117 Arroyolos 79 112 Adradas 32} 122 Astorga - - - - 55J 11S Agnoa ------79 122 Ataquines ------25 112 Agreda ------47 111 Ateca 39 115 Albacete --- 40 123 Aviles 81| 118 Albuera 68 11S Ayerbe 68 118 Atcala de Guadayra - - - 87| 119 Alcata la Real 64$ 112 Alçam» - - 78 15. 119 Alcandete 61} 121 Alcobendas- - 3 117 Badajoz - 6* 113 Alcover 97 120 Baena 60Í 117 Alcramas - - 71 120 Bacza 32$ 118 Aldeã dei Rio 56 115 Bagnosde Murcia - - - - 67 117 Aldeã Gallega ------94 122 Bagnos, in Old Caslile - - 43 120 Algeciras - - 101 121 Bahabon - - S2 121 Atheudin.------76 121 Bayonnc, by the courier 115 Alicante -- 64 with the mail 97} 123 Alloriz 80 113 Bayonne, by Pampeluna - S 111 Alraadroncs------19| 122 Bagneza ------S'£ 117 Almandralejo ------59 115 Barcelona, by Valência - - 109 116 Almaraa ------33 112 Barcclofia, hy Saragossa - 110 112 Alraazan 36 112 Baseara 130| 112 Almunia .------47 121 Basconcillos ------51} 115 Alojicria de lo» Fraylcs- - 25 118 Baylen 47 121 Ameyugo. - • 56| 122 Bccertca - 78} 118 Aitdujar ------52* 11S Bedeus 80 108 Angeles 2* 115 Belmonte de la Mancha - 23 120 Antequera 71$ 120 Benamcxi ------67| 113 Anzanigo - - ■ 72 119 Bcnaudalla - 83J 126 CAMPAIGNS IX SPAIX AND PORTUGAL.

Pages. Posting Icagucs. Page». Posting Icagucs.

Mcasuied roads, 122 Benavente - - 45 116 Casas dei Pocrto de Santa 124 Bendia -----.... 87$ Cruz 4-4 112 BcnlJoch ...... 82$ 114 Castcllon de la Plana 64Í 121 Bcrguenda- 69 121 Castel de Pcones 48* 113 Bcrmucs - - - - 74 121 Castillejo 19* 113 Berrueta 76 114 Castillejo de Iniesta 82| 122 Betanzos 95$ 109 Castillejo, ncat Aranjuez - 10 117 Bienvenida ...... 68 112 Castel Oli - - -' 99$ 122 Bilboa 73 108 Castilejone» 12 123 Boberas 89 123 Castrovite 94$ 112 Bonlou l39i 114 Caudete 39$ 114 Bonarclic de Alarcon 26* 124 Cavonas ...... 99 123 Bovcda de Castro . - - - 44$ 124 Cclada M 116 Bravado 15$ 123 Cerdcdo 93 121 Briviesca 50$ 112 Cervera, in Catalonia - - 90 112 Bua» 73 111 Cctina 35 111 Bubierea 37 120 Ceuta 104$ 121 Bnitrago - 1S$ 109 Chueca 16 118 Buiza 63$ 115 Cicza 56$ 112 Bujaraloz ..... 68 112 Cinlruenigo - - 52 111 Bujarrabal *- - 25 123 Ciudad-Rodrigo 54 121 Burjoí, as travellcd by tbc 123 Codesas 93 eourier wiih lhe mails - 42$ 118 Córdoba 64$ 124 Burgo», by Valladolid - - 581 117 Coria 49 122 Corogna, by Lugo - - - - 98$ C. 123 Corogna.by Santiago- - - 108$ 118 Corujo de Mango negro - 67$ 120 Cabagnasde la Sagra- • - 0\ 109 Covento dei Castagnar - - 23 12t Cabanillas 9* 122 Cubiltos 64$ 123 Cibrariillas• - - 4l| 121 Cubo 53$ 118 Cagnada de la Iliguera- « 17$ 109 Cuerva. 21 123 Cagiiizo - - 67 118 Cadiz 111$ E. 111 Calatayud 41 116 Calzada de Orop*-sa - - - 27 118 Eeija 74$ 115 Cambrlls 92$ 108 Escoriai _- 8$ 113 Camin-Rcal - - • - • • • 60$ 108 Espartinas 5$ 113 Campfrauc 80 117 Estremoz 73 112 Candasnos 71 121 Canduela 55* F. 118 Carlota 7\)\ 118 Carmona -...----. 83Í 124 Fcrrol - - - ioi{ 118 Carolina 431 112 Figucras 133$ 118 Carpio 59$ 112 Fonda dei Codul 102 123 Carral 102$ 122 Fonda de San Rafael 12 116 Carrascal- - 39 108 Fonda de la Trinidad - - 6 115 Carthegcna 73$ 112 Fraga 75 118 Casablanca dei Rey - - - 62 123 Franqucyra ...... 91 109 Ca$a ilc Arabere 12 112 Frasno ..... 44 109 Casa de los PP. de S. Pe- 121 Fresnillo de la Fuente - - 22 dro Mártir...... 14 114 Fucntiducgna déTajo -- 9J 118 Casa dei Bey 50 118 Casa nueva dcl Rey - - - 27 G. 116 Casa dcl Puerto de Mara- 108 Galnpagar ----.--. Çi T«te 35 117 Galistco • - - 44 MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. K7

Pngc». Foiting leagucs. rages. Posling leagues. B O O K I. —• cnAF.it.

112 Gancho ...... 95 117 Licrcna 71 Measuredroad*. 112 Gairapinillos, or Venta dei 112 Uinis .-,.--.-. 11C Leon 51 115 LoboMllo --.----- 70 120 Gausin - - - »3§ 111 Lodaxes 27$ 112 Gcrona .... 127$ 115 Lorqui 61$ 120 Gctafc 2£ 120 Lucena - - 6-1} 120 Gibraltar lOlj 122 Lugo 84$ 132 Gijon 82 118 Luisiana 77* 115 Gineta - - - 37 123 Luvian - 63$ 112 Gomei 85 111 Grajanejos — - « t7 119 Grenada " ' - - 72$ M. 112 Guaclio, or Ganclio . - - 95 111 Guadalaxara - 11 118 Madridejos 19$ 122 Guadarrama------9§ 1 ,1 Madrigal cjo - 2,1 \ 118 Guardiã ..--.--- 134 120 «Málaga - - 79* 118 Guarronian ------45$ 112 Mallorqninas 123$ 121 Guermeccs ------46$ 117 Malpartida 40 122 Guitiriz 90$ 122 Manzanal ------58$ 121 Guiniel de Izan 30 118 Manzanares 29$ 113 Gurrea 63 116 Marqiieda 12 120 Marbella 81$ 112 Marcilla 59 II. 123 Martin dei Rio 49 115 Martorcll, by Valência - - 107$ 112 Ilinojosa ------43$ 112 Martorcll, by Saragossa. - 105 112 Hostalrich 121$ 123 Maside 87 108 Matas 4 114 Maturo 112$ I. 113 Maya - - - 77 118 Mayrena -- 85$ 112 Igualada ------97 116 Meajadas------47 120 Ilkscai 6$ 122 Medina dei Campo - - - - 28 121 Irun $0$ Mcrabibre 62$ 118 Ida de Leoa 108$ 116 Mérida 55 115 Minaya 31 114 Minglanilla 3-1} 3. 121 Miranda de Ebro 59 121 Molledo 63% 113 Jaca - 77 113 Momblanch .- - 92 llfi Jaraycejo ------37 123 Mombuey -..----- 54 113 Jugncda ------85 112 Monmalc 114 112 Juuquera ------136$ 118 Monasterio 83 112 Moncada --- 112 124 Mondognedo ------93$ L. 121 Mondragon 70$ 115 Monforte - - - 60 122 Labajos ------17 111 Monreal de Ariza 33 112 Lanz ----- 73 114 Montalbo 17$ 108 Las Matas ------4 115 Moiitcalcgre 48 123 Leon ------56} 117 Monlemor-novo 82 112 Lérida 80 122 Monte Salgucyro 93 121 Lerma - 35 109 Mora *6 3 120 Lmares ------49$ 116 Mostoies 117 Liiboa 97 . 114 Motilla dei Palaocat - - - 30% 12S CAMPAICNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Pagcs. Posting Cagues. Pagcs. Posting leagnei.

Measured roads- 119 Motri! 87$ 124 Porrgno 95 11? Muda 52 115 Poro de la Pegita 42J 115 Murcía 64$ 117 Pregones 89 114 Murvicdro ------58§ 112 Puebla de Alfinditl 59 121 Puebla do Argaiizon - - - 62 124 Puente de Aras 93 N. 122 Puente de la Bizana - - - 48 108 Puente dei Rctamar - - - 4 116 Nsvalcarnero------5 115 Pwrtode la Losilla - - - 59J 108 Navalejos ------10 118 Puertode Lapicha - - - - 22| 123 Navallo - - 70 118 Puerco de Santa Maria - 105| 116 Navaliuoral de Flasencía - 31 115 Puerto do la Mala Muger 53 118 Ntra. Sra.de la Consolaeion 31 § 113 Puigdelfi 97J 114 Nulcs 61$

Q. O. 121 Quintanopalla 45* 118 Oeagna 10 113 Olcron 90 114 Olivare» - - 23J R. líl Onrubia -- 25 115 Ontanaya • - 19 118 Real Casa dei Cuervo - - 99J 123 Oreaode las Torres - - - £7 123 Remesal .' _ * " 57 124 Ordugna 67 123 Requejo de Sanabria 60 123 Orense - - 84 114 Requena - - 42* 118 Orgax 17§ 113 Réus 100 114 Oropesa (Calzada de) - -

Pages. Postiug I cagues. Pages. Posting teagues. BOOKL CHAf, II.

112 SanScloni 119 114 Ulldccona 77$ Mcasured roads 121 San Sebastião ------85 113 Urdos 83 116 Santn Cruz dei Rctamar - 10 121 Uriarte 95$ 118 Sdiitu Cr 112 de Mudei a - - 35$ 1*21 Umieta- --•.------84$ 118 Saiila Elma 41$ 118 Utreru *--- 92| 118 Santa Alaria 71 116 Santa Olalla 87 V. 121 Santander 71§ 123 Santiago 98$ 115 Vaciamadrid ------3 121 Santogna 76$ 118 Vatdcpeguas 33$ 112 Suragossa------56 124 Valdcsliílas 32 12t Sirracin - 40$ 122 Vatdomar 87$ 120 Sauccjo 82$ 114 Valência 54§ 115 Sax 57 124 Vatladolid 36 118 Scvillc 89$ 115 Vallirana 105 114 Siete-Aguas ------45$ 113 Volls- 95 112 Sigiieiua 28 116 Valmojnda ------f 123 Sitratna 48 112 Valtierra 56 122 Sobmdo 814 123 Vega 71$ 121 Sotno»icrra ------16$ 123 Vega de Terá 51 113 Soria - - 42 122 Vefradfi Vsildctroncos -- 34 116 Sctocochino» ------17 115 VendrcH - 99\ T. 114 Venta de liugnol- — - • 47$ 118 Vema de Cárdenas - - - - 30 112 Tafalla 63 112 Ventado Fraga 73 116 Talaverade la Reyna - - 19 116 Vema de Ja Guia- - - - - 50 117'Talttvcra la Real 61 118 Venta de Guillcna - - - - 93$ 1 lò Taraitcon ---- 12$ 122 Venta dei llambrc - - - - 66 115 Tiirragoiuv, by Valência - 9j| 118 Vontade ta Portuguesa- - 81 113 Tarragona, % Saiagossa 114 Venta de Povos 51$ anil Lérida 994 lis! Venta de la Kaiucra - - - 50 118 Tembleqnc 1&| 117 Venta de la Vazabona - - 37 115 Tobarra 48 114 Venta de los Ajos - - - - 82$ 120 Toleda 12$ 117 Venta de! Duque - - - - 76 121 Tolosa.Gutpiizcoa - - - - 811 111 Vontade Meco 7$ 123 Tora de los Gur.mancs - - 50 122 Venta de Noceda - - - - 75$ 122 Tordesillas 32 116 Vento de Pelavcnegas - - 23 111 Torija 14 112 Venta de Santa Lncia - - 65 124 Toio 37 109 Venta de Valdccaba - - - 13 114 Torroblauca 69\ 115 Venta de Vinaica - - - - 50$ 115 Torre deu Barra 97 \ 115 Venta Nueva------45$ 119 Torre Mínimo 57$ 117 Ventas Nuevas ------86 111 Torrcjon de Ardoz - - - - 4 118 Ventorrillo de las Torres de 121 Torrelavega 67$ l-ocftss 96$ 117 Torrcniexia ------57 123 Vcrin i 74 111 Totreniocba 22$ 121 Victoria 65 124 Torrequemsda ------46 124 Vigo 97 115 Torrubia 15 122 VilUcasttn --- 15 114 Tortos* 80$ 121 VilliifV.Hica deGui|)U2C0rf - 78$ 124 TriguCcos( Venta de) - - - 40 115 Villulranca dei Patiadés - 102$ 116 Trunillo 41 122 Vi

BOOK I. Pagcs. Posting leagues. Pages Posting league*. OH* P. II. ■

Measured roads 123 Villanucva de la Gesta - - 90} 117 Xerez de los Caballeros - 69 124 Villaodrigo 50 118 Villaharta «4.J 114 Vitlar de Saz 20$ Y. 122 Villarde Frades 37 114 Villargordo de Gabriel - - 37$ 111 Vébcues 18 121 VitWeal de Urrechu - - - 754 115 Yecla- - 52 123 Vi! laque xida 48 117 Yelves - 67 123 Villona 32 114 Vinnroz .._.-. 73J 115 Vinaia 88 Z. 118 Visilío 87* 117 Zafra- - 64 112 Zamajon 39f X. 124 Zamora - 42 113 Zuera- - 60 118 Xerez de Ia Fronte» ... 103

The roads from the royal residences will be perceived to eommunicate witli the great roads,—leading nortbward to the Pyrenees; eastward to the Medlterranean; by the south-west to Portugal; the southward loCadiz and the rest of Andalusia; by the south-east to Grenada and Gibraltar; by the north-west to Biscay, &c.; and eastward to Leon, Gaãcia, and the Astúrias. The alphabetical references will facilítate examination of the different routes of armies. Before the ministry of Florida Blanca there was no road that would adinit of post-travelling, nnless ou horseback, of course no such thing as a public coach; nor, indeed, with the exception of such as arose from the active patriotisni of the inhabitants in certain parts and the convenience of royalty, was there a regularly good road, pas- sable at ali seasons, in the kingdom. MIMTARY V1EW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 131

B • These exceptions consisted of the road through c2°* í Galicia froin Pontevcdra, near the Bay of Vigo, ^^J^ aud the Atlantic ocean, to Corogna ; another, in the north of Castile, from Reynosa to the sea; those of Na varre and Biscay; and those from the Escurial, Aranjuez, &c. to the metropolis. In 1792 that excellent one approached completion which, with intervals, extended from Irun and Burgos to Madrid ; and the most important one in Spain that from Madrid to Cadiz, which conjunctly dividecl the península from north to soutli; these were followed by stage-coaches and post-horses, and relays of mules, a mode of travelling exceedingly rapid. . ííow dreadful, at the same time, is the picture which is presented of aclmirabie roads, formed amid barren plains, as in the Castiles, and miserable roads passing through countries fertile and industrious, as along the coasts of Valência and Catalonia. <. !*> To the martial Englishman every inducement g**"*» is oífered to take the south road, across the Sierra Morena, into Andalusia, jotning Portugal on the west; and, after viewing Cadiz, pursue bis course along the coast to Gibraltar, and thence to the shores of the Mediterranean. Cape-Trafalgar too falis within this course;—who would not there K2 132 CAMPAIGNS IN 5PAIN AND PORTUGAX.

BOOKI. heave an exultinp;. though a painful, sigh, and J exclaim, Palma qiá meruit, <§*c. ? Spain.

Toledo andfifty miles round Ma- In this course the first object of importanee is drid. the city of Toledo, which is a day's journey from Madrid, being situated on the right bank of the Tagus at twelve leagues (48 English miles) from that capital, and seven leagues (or 28 English miles) from the celcbrated royal residence of Aranjuez.

There are, however, two large towns "of much Getafe. consideration on the way, first Getafe, and next II- Jlleacaa. lescas, of which the en vi rons are fertile and well cultivated, though, as usual inCastile, tliereareno trecs. By the road from Aranjuez the country is more picturesque; the serpentine course of the Tagus in this part assumes a stronger torrent, and its banks elevate themselves to rocky heights.

Toledo. The Romans; the Arabs, the Goths, and the Spaniards under Charles V. ali regarded Toledo with consideration, and embellished it. The cityiscnteredf rom a bridge of more height tlian strength, which represents it in an unfavoura- ble point of view, for the streets render it contem p- tible, though dignified by the title of imperialhy Al- phonsoVI.and pre-eminent to Burgos in the cortes; and also notwithstanding its antient monuments. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA, 133

It is built upon rocks and commanded by emi' nences, presenting only au idea of stcrility; yet ^TÍT^ amid thcse precipices are found dclightful retrcats, j^r* (cigarrales,) impervious to the sun, and are no.t casily quittcd whcn once explored. Tb is is tbe city so fainous for the temper of sword-blades, lhe sccret of hardening which is said to be recovercd; the proof is by strikíng the blade several times against an iron head-piece, when if it beeome the least notched it is rejected.*

• In an hour of leisure, the officer of taste wii! find lhat the architecture of the town-house, by Dorainieo Greeo, is well worlhy attention, for the towers and other ornaments; its Doric and Ionic columns; and the following inseription on the staircase:—

Nobles díseretos varones. Que gobernais a Toledo, En aquestos escalones Dcscchad Ias aficiones, Codícias, amor, ymildo: Po rios com unes provechos Dexad los particulares: Peres vos fizo dios pilares De tan altíssimos techns, Estad firmes y derechots.

Noble and judicious raen, who govera Toledo, Leave your passions on this staif-case, Love, fear, and the desire of gain. / 134 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Silk-weavíng suíficient to cmploy nearly one thousand people was establisbed by cardinal Lo- Toledo and fifty ir ' núies round renzana, anionor the other çood works to wliicli ne Madrid. roused the native indolence of Toledo.*

The villages between tbe capital and Toledo have bcen mentioned. There are some objects of importance, within a circuit of fifty miles from Madrid, wbich also merit particular notice, pre- víous to pursuing the course which lias been adopted.f

For lhe public benefit forget privatc interest. Serve God, who made you the pillars of this august palace, Be firm and upright.

The cathedral, one of the most precious sacred monuments In Europe, must not herc bc injurcd by description. There are twenty-five parish-churches, besides hospitais and píous foundations. The Alcazar, the annual residence of the Gothic kings, was rístored bycaidinal Lorcnzana, the enlighteped archbishop of Toledo for more than twcnty years. In a chapei here, also founded by cardinal Ximcnes, divine service is celcbrated conforraably to the antient Muzarabic ritual, adhered to by the Christians in such çountries as were oceupied by the Moors. * In mid-day the houses werc formally closcd from the heatof the sun, and every thing within them resigned lo indolence. 7 With various yet imperfect materiais before hira, the present writer could form no plan which sccmed more clear for this military sketch than that of imagining two círcles at a dis* MILITAItT VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. ■ 135

A league from Toledo, whcre the Moorish kings *£?*£ had a pleasure-house, is La Huerta dei Key, the T"^^ kings garden, a charming meadow, on the banks ****** of the Tagus, pretty closely planted with groups of trees. The boast of the Casa dei Campo is similar; VOI.TO«. Villa Viciosa, three leagues from Madrid, was the favourite residence of Ferdinand VI. San Fernando, something more distant, had San Fernando, the manufacture of cloths, which still bear the name, though the manufactory is removed to Guadalaxara. lt now receives penitents from Ma- drid. About the same distance is Loeches, a place of Lwxhw. an interesting nature, from the church of a small convent of nuns containing six of the best and largest pictures of Rubens. Again, four or five leagues from the Escurial, Guisando. is the pass, broken into a ehain of precipiees with deep caverns, and a stream here and there rushing alono* its bottom, where Guisando, a convent of tance of fifly and two hnndred miles from the capital, which is centrally situated; so that in lhe present instance the reader will be supposcd lo pass from Toledo eastward, and complete the inner circle by north and west at Aranjuez. The outer circle, on the conlrary, quitling lhe confines pf Portugal and Cadiz, will proceed easlward and by north lo its completion in Galicia and Leon t these circles, bowcver, are not pretended to include every interesting object with In their course. 136 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKI. Ilieronomitcs, placed mid-way, preserves the mo v^-v-"**-' nument called Toros de Guisando. This is formed Toledo and fifty miiesroundMa- |jy tw0 shapelcss lumps of granite, supposed to bear the inscriptions—Bellum Cesaris et pátria ex magna parte cenfectúm fuit; S. et Cn. Pompeii filiis hic in agro Bastetano profligatis ; and Ex- ercitas Victor, hostibns effusis: and to mark the spot where the partizans of Cassar, having defeated the sons of Pompey, saerificed a hundred bulis, and left this monument of their victory. As usual catholicism assumed this rude theatre of Ethnic fame; and at a distance of fourteen centuries the martyrs of repentance sought refuge in the same caverns. But such martyrs of liberty as the sons of Pompey possessed not the means of a generous and warlike nation roused to preserve itself from bondage.* Sona. Beyond this, in the bishopric of Soria, eight leagues from Ciudad Rodrigo and fourteen from Salamanca, sufficient of themselves to tempt a diversion from our course, are the Batuescas, two deep vallies, narrow and uneultivated, scarcely a league in length, su closed by groups of rocks

* This appropriatíon of the scene of the Agcr Bastetanus opposes that of the Roman historians, who place the defeat of Pompe/s party in Audaluiia. MILITARV VIEW OF THE PENINSULAi 137 and trees, that the sim is not visible inwinter: BOOKI- ' CIIAP. II. a small river watcrs them; vast chasms occur in *—**"■/•"•-^ Fiíty mil es the variegated rocks, where animais of ali kinds rouud Madrid, fintl an asylum, hut those of human kind the least. The principal habitation is a convent of barc-footed carmelites, whose cells are almost hu- ried beneath rock and shade. A perpetuai peace might well be imagined there. The district is entirely unfrequented, no road leads to it, the shep- herds tru&t not their flocks near it; and, indeed, it is almost inaccessible. The few natives spcak a language by corruption their own, and seldom quit the spot. Iience the dreadful reports of strange sounds, and " sights unholy," which have spread cnneerning the Batuescas, fumished plays and romances, andoecupied even philosophers and divines. The gloom of this scene is but little changed in Avit*. approaching, nearer Madrid, the city of Ávila, whose thick walls, towers, alcaza, and gothic cathedral, with its dome, announce grandeur, but whose streets present only poverty and depopula- tion. A manufacture of cloths, existing at the com- menccinent of the last century, fell into decay. Ávila in teres ts us from the establishment, in 1789, of a manufactory of cotton cloths, by two Englishmen, who, notwithstanding their heresy, in three years, employed seven .hundred persons, 138 CAMPAIGNS TN SPAÍN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKI. an(j for a whiie banished poverty from the city. ^-^V^ It is painful to find that, nevertheless, the manage- roood Madrid. mCnt of this concern was transferred to Bettancourt, a celebratcd Frcnch mechanic, and, as liberally observcd by his countryman Bourgoing, gained nothing by the change. Little of it remained a few years since. Ateai». Alcala is sornewhat more active ; it is long and narrow, but well built and clcan; has many churches and convents,* and is without the repu]- sive appearances of Castilian poverty. The intermediate space between it and Madrid is very agreeable; as the vilíage of Canillejas, singularly situated in the mídst of orchards and gardens. Near the centre, between Alcala and the capital, the Henares is crossed by a faie stone bridge,

Mimary qoar- w]1jc]1 ]eaves on its right the militar}' quarters of Legonas and Vicalvaro, where were usually stationed the Walloon guards and the Spanish regimen t. Tomjon. Torrejon sueceeds; beyond which is another stone bridge over the Tajote, a small river, as usual in Spaiu, exhausted iu sumtner, but whose banks are shaded with trees. Gutdaiwcar». Four Icagues farther than Alcala is the city of

* Cardinal Xiroenes founded the university, to which he invited scholars for the preparation of the Bíblia Complutentia. HILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 139

Guadalascara. on an eminence. whence a fine road BOOK i. CHAP. ir.. leads to a miserable village. Hence to Grajanejos v-*-v~^ .... , Fifty niilcs the soil is barren and stony, and the road bad in »und Madrid. hot weatlicr. The prospect, however, is pleasing, of a small narrow, but highly cultivatcd, valley. fíujerraval is a miserable village, surrounded by Bujerrar»L rocks, two leagues from Siguenza. The appearance of the country improves, on approaching Fuencaliente, a village in a bottom, on Fuencaiiente. the banks of a rivulet, in front of which, onone of the surrounding walls, is the chief residence of the duke • of Medina Celi. In this neighbourhood are some fine houses, verdnre, and fields of hemp, meadows with cattle, and cultivated plains. The hamlet of Londares, nor the village, built uaiuu. by the btshop of Siguenza, claim attention; but on the summit of a hill, at no great distance, is an old castle, worthy of the utmost grandeur of the oídFoit feudal system, and which must formerly have had an iraportant military destination. The road through the north-eastern extremity of New Castile is intersected by abrupt windings and broken precipices, of a terrific effect. Arcos, Arco* the last town in the provinçe, and one of thirteen belonging to the duke of Medina Ce!i, is poor, but finely situated. For the three leagues which separa te it from Monreal, another wretched town, 140 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

cj?Apíx.r* 'n ru'DS» an(* tne ^rst m Arragon, with the excep- ^J"^£7"^ l'on °^^ie approaches to the Bernardine monastery rouud Madiid. 0f Huesta, the country and roads are equally frightful. At a league distant, on an cminence, is the old Monreal. family castle of the Arizas, proprietors of Monreal, and, in the valley beneath, an elegant niodcrn residence. The river Xalon flows, and fornis a cascade near it, and is crossed by a liantlsome bridge. The road now rapidly descends, but is good as Cctiva. far as Cetiva; thence to Bubierce, romantically situated among rocky eminences, it is charming, between two rows of hills. At the foot of tliose ou the right, the Xalon waters a valley in high cultivation. Alrea. The next stage is Ateca, a village, sunounded with fertile vineyards.* The valley then beconies broader, and ts still cultivated to Calatuyd. Irri-

* The British soldier, who shal! yet one day, with gencrous hopes andan animatedfront,traversethis spot, will have olhcr viewsand busineps than indulgence in the beverage of his temperate and rapid meai. It would not, however, be justtoomit the mention of the mild, plea^ant, and wholesome, winc of Ateca, callcd Ce- rinana, in colour something like the eyes of a partridge; bc- cause, throughout the vicinity, thcre is no other but what is , bSack, thick, and exceedingly injurious to the health. MILITARY VIÉW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 141 gation, from the Xalon, of the adiacent lands, and B00K *• other marks of laudable índustry, are apparent. J^-fv^^^ round Madrid. The city of Calatayud is incrusted in the raidst Calatayud. of a chain of rugged and nncouth rocks, which disfigure the pleasing landscape: to the south, however, it bares itself and desceBds into the richest part of the valley; it contains only 1500 houses, but teu parish-chnrches and fifteen convents, some remarkablc for size and magnificcnce.* Near ít the Xiloca falis into the Xalon. . Thccountry now becomes unequal. Fresno is F«»no. situated in a pleasant and well cultivated valley: an elevation discovers Almunia, surrounded by Aimumi. vineyards, olives, and figs, interspersed with hemp and maize, the property of don d'Aranda. Heath and a naked country succeed to this delightful picture, crowned by the miserable Ven- ta de la Ra mera. It extends even to Saragossa, uamera. which is seen at half a league distance beyond the last stage but one, on the road to it, the Muela.

Of Saragossa the institutions of every kínd saragos»,

• Who, durirg the shortest halt, would forget to Iook around him here for the antient Bilbiiis, the birth-place of the wiltj, the elegant, and the unfortunate, Martial. 142 CAMPAIGNS IN SPATN AND PORTUGAL-

BOOKT. are varíous and important. The principal sacred v^~v"*~' edifices are two cathedrals, tlie church de la Seu, Fifty miles . round Madrid. 0f a majestic simplicity, and that, so famous in catholicism, of Nuestra Senoi'a dei Pilar* The latter, though rebuilt at thc end of the seventeenth century, lias been justly described as a gloomy cdifice, crowded with ornamcnts, in a wretched tas te. The arches, however, have been recently painted in fresco, by the two brothers Bayen, and Dou Francisco Goya, three natives of Saragossa. In the church of Santa Eugracia are deposíted the ashes of several martyrs of persecuting emperors, over whom silver lanips were ordained to burn day and night. The Casa de la Misericórdia is, however, of much more immediate importance. In it beneficiai philanthropy does not violate the general order of society. A new butldingwas erected in 1792, under the auspices of Don Ramon Pignatelli, the founder of the canal of Arragon, Unfriended youth of hoth sexes without the means of subsistence are here maintained and employcd. They card wool

* There is a foolish tale of this church, full of vain egotism, told by lhe cardinal Rctz, in hls memoirs:—in which he w** taken for the king of England, Charles II. &c. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 143

of an inferior quality, wind silk, and spin; they

also weave some coarse woollen cloths, camblets, j and cven silks.* nmi Madrid* Severa] regiments are also clothed from some manufactories of Saragossa. There is here a small university, an academy of fine arts, and a patriotic society for the encouragement of industry and plantations; schools for the mathematics and commerce, and in sliort for every branch of education. Saragossa, says Bourgoing, with a sort of pro- phetic expectation, is awakening out of her lethargy and about to become worthy of the capital of Arragon. Of Arragon generally, so much cannot be said, many of its towns and villages have disappeared, notwithstanding the honou rabie figure which, according to some writers, it made in the htstory of free governments. Around the eity of Huesca, tweíve leagues Huesc* from Saragossa, the district is remarkably fertile. That which surrounds Tarragona, at thirteen

• The greater part of these persons, howcvcr, (and lhercare Vthabtehintto here seven hundrcd.) work for the manufacturers of the city, «haritable insti- •* tutioos ia Eng- for the wise founder was sensible that tvithout this precaution laod. the manufactures of charitable instituttons would retard, instead of promoting, industry. 144 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND POUTUGAL.

ea ues ^ÍA^IIÍ' ^ è distant, is wel! supplied with wood and ^-^-v-"^ water. Fifty iiulcs rouud Madrid. Terruel, between Saragossa and Valentia, calls Tcrruel. . for niention, from thc history of two loveis buricd in one of its churches, and consecrated by Poetry to Fame: the plain, however, which sur* rounds both it and Albarracia is fertile and beau» • tiíul. Daroca, at the foot of thc mountains, and on the banks of the Xiloca, is often exposed to its inundations. A subterraneous passage, of considerable extent, was thercfore made for a vent to the waters. ->» Csnaiof An«- An object of more extensive importancc, however, is the canal of Amigou, one of the chief master-pieccs of Spanish industry, of which many vague details have appeated, and the following will not be asserted as the best ♦ The formation of the canal of Arragon, which owes its origin to Charles V. and its furtherance to Ramon PignatcHi, lias great claims to intelli* gence, solidity, and magnificence. It is to be twenty-six great leagues in length, from Tudela

• The oil of Arragon, mild, nuiritive, and of excellent flavour, forms its chief source of wealth. Saragossa has several olive-mill?, of considerable advantage. MILlTARy VIEW OF THE PENIXSUlA. 145

B00K L Sasbago." Its Icast depthr nine feet.' and the CHAP. II. largest barks tipon it carry near 3000 quintais. ^""V"^ It requires thirty-four locks, of which none is «mud Madrid, necessary betwecn Tudela and Saragossa; but, from thence to Sasbago, where it enters the Ebro, tbe elevation of ground renders thein indispensablc. Each lock costs 200,000 reais. Sarias also are necessary to carry off the super- fluous water (almanaras de desague) ; cuts, for the purpose of irrigation, (almenaras de riego) ; small aqueducts over rivers, (alcaníarillas), under which passthe roads; and superficial currents (cor- rientes superficiales), to carry the torrents over the surface of the canal, aftcr depositing the stones, mud, and gravei which accompany them. Five bridges are requisite between Galicia and the Bocais, first of wood, permanently of bríck. Tbe canal can be constantly furnished with the quantity of water required to the tenth of an inch; and it may be drained in four or five hours, for the purpose of cleansing it; the sluices are opened at the same instant, and the waters rush into the Ebro. The cut made from tliis ri ver below Tudela for the canal does not perceptibly diminish its waters, and at Sartago the Ebro itself becomes navigable ,to the sea. VOL. I. L 146* CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

The revenue of the canal, arisiug from land va- riously improved by it, was such as early to main- Fifty mil es rouãd Madrid, tain its progress. At the foot of Monte Sorrero, wliere are great clepots of corn, timber, and iron, the canal passes within half a league from Saragossa. Within little more than a league aud a half above and below that city are ten fine locks, to which it descends from a large basin. At no great distance is an aqueduct of hewn stone, 710 fathoms in length, o ver the Xalon, which cost nearly thirteen millions of reais. At the Canaleta, the old canal for irrigating the soil» cut from the Xalon, proceeds through a fine stone bridge over the new canal, and proceeds eastward towards Lucena. Extensive works are rendered necessary by the inequality and roughness of the ground at Gallier, a village on an arid eminence near a bank of the Ebro, which approaches the canal at a smalí distance; and a little lower down it is carried, by a tunnelof masonry begun nnder Charles V. through some very high hills. Half a league below Gallier the Ebro appears again; and, beyond its left bank, the village of Tauste and its canal. Approaching the Bocal the canais commence, MILITARY VIEW Ot THE PENÍNSULA. 147 dividecl by a small island; that on the riglit being ^J^J* the canal of Charles V. and on the left that of J^C*^ Fifty miles Tau S te. roood Madrid. On approaching the bridge of Formigai es, of a single arch, the canal presents a fine sheet of water; its íirst outlet (almenara de dcsague) is bere. Below Formigales is tlie bridge of Val- verde* The canal commands, at two leagues from the Bocal, a vastfertile plain; and, having passed the antient castle of Mallcn, enters the kingdom of Navarre. At the Bocal, a quarter of a league beyond For- migales, the Ebro, restrained by a dykc, 118 fa- thòms long by 17 broad, enters the bed of the canal gradually by eleven inlets. Here, at a commanding point of vicw, is the grand depôt of the works, residencc of the governor, &c. The canal of Tauste, much calculated for purposes of irrigation, has been suffered to remain; nor is the Ebro cntirely useless even in the vicinity of these improvements.—True judgcment does notdisdain its liumblest meansin the presence of its highest advantages. The village of Fontellas, on an eastern eminence adjoining the canal, is crossed in the way to Tu- dela, the principal town of Navarre, whose roads are excellent. i2 J48 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND POllTUOAL.

This objcct, ahvays interesting in a military

Fiftj miles point of view, has led us, however, beyond the lound Madiid. prescribed course, and it is nccessary to return to Castile, without haltíng, befoie wc approach Aran- juez, the beautiful royal residence, from which we are to proceed to the south of Spain. On the road from Madrid to Aranjuez the massy, wicle, and long, bridge of Toledo niay be avoided, and a circuit of a quarter of a Ieague saved, when the Manzanares is vcry low, by crossing, at a small bridge, the unfiníshed canal by which that river and the Tagus were inteuded, under the administration of Grimaldi, to have been united. Its revenues, arising from a few mills, are in- sufficient for its support: its expenses in locks, bridges, &c. are great. The Manzanares is fordable a little farther on. The Xarania flows alung the hills which form the northern side of the beautiful valley of Aran juez. Afanjuez. Every thing now annnounees approach to the rural solitude of royalty. The aspect of Castile is changed. Sheltered beneàth umbrageous shade, and traversing meads enamelled with flowers, or parterres variegated with coloursand perfumes, enriched every where by the prospect of a luxurious vegetation, no rougher sounds MltlTART VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA.' 149

B K awake the ear than the rushing of waterfalls and C°A°P „^ / the gentle murmurof rippling floods. The Tagus, FJjf^j^ entcring the valley at the cast end, winds alòng it «w™»M«Md.. for nearly two leagues, before its conflux with the Xará ma, in the most beautiful manner. It falis not within the present plan to give way to ali the charms of description which have been felt or feigned of this royal rctreat, in which ali the luxuriancc and serenity of nature is intermingled with peculiar delíghts of art. The fornv* ation of the village on a plan of Grimaldi, framed, during a diplomatic residence at the Hague, upon the Dutch model, the streets composed of neat liouscs, lined with broad trees and streams of water, however inconsistent with the scene, arç not unpleasing.*

* The following is a part of the sketeh gíven of this interesting spot by Bourgoing, who seems to have rôvelled in its utmost enjoyment. On arriving at Madrid, (says he,) we pass through a circular enclosure, called Las Doce Calles, from the twelve alieis which diverge from it. One of these alleys 1eads to the entrance of Las Huerías, a vastorchard, where we may admire the astonishing fertility of the soil of Aranjuez. If we wish to see a specimen of eultivation on a larger scale, and not less luxuriant, we may take lhe road towards Toledo and visit the Campo Flamenco, so called, without doubt, because it resembles the fine gardens of Flanders. We must not negleet the Ctrtija, another enclosure, súrrounded with an open raíling, where the soil, cultivated 150 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAfl-N AND PORTUGAL.

^BA^Í ^ curious specimen of military equitation said ^*^Ç^ to be practísed by Charles IVv when prince of roond Madrid. Astúrias, must not be omttted.

with particular care, repays wíth usary the eflbrts of thc agri- culturist, and those ofthe king, who has hcre plantcd slips of vínes frora diffcrent places in the kingdom. LasOy, the Htterta de Falência exhibits some successful attempts at cultívation/and a kind of forctaste ofthe kingdom of Valência. Be s ides fields of hemp, artificial meado ws, aud vincyards, we here fiod plantations of chesnuts, and a bailding consecrated to the labours of the silk-worm. But what is most remarkable, and bcst known amoog the plantations of Aranjuez, is the Calle de ia Meyna, which forras, as it were, its back-bone. It pursues, for liearly half a leagae, a dircction from east to west, and is termi- natcd at a stone bridge thrown over the Tagus. It then proceeds fbr no Jess a distance, and ends at another bridge upon the same river, the sinuosities of which can only be followed by the imagination, through a valley shadowed with shrubs and large trees, which conceal its course at interyals from our view. Behiod one of these thick curtains is hidden a cascade, the noise of which is heard at a great distance, and is the only interruption to the tranquiUity that reigns in this solitary spot. It has for its object to draw away from the Tagus part of its waters. The arra of thisriyer, thus turned frora its bed, flows into a deep artificial çhanncl, and procccds to refresh some of the plantations of Aranjuez, and provide for the wants of its inhabilants; but the shade and the vcrdure suddenly cease, and nothing is to be seen bat the bare bills surrounding the valley, and wbich art concealed from tlie vicw, in order to prevent the frame frora spoiling the effect of the picture. At the foot of these hills are MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 151

BOOK I. This was the Parejas. A squadron of horse,babited crtAP. II.

in the antient Spanish military costume, formed four ^J^>|es rouod Madrid.

tbe king's slables, where the breed of Spanish horses stiU keeps up its antient beauty. The king attaches much iraportance to the presperity of tho stud at Aranjuez; the embarrasmentsof the war, however, sus' i pended the care which this establishment requires; but, in 1796, a council was appointed exclusively for this purpose, vtnder the title of Supreme Junta of Equitatien. The síud at Aranjuez centains, at present, abeut four hundred mares and twenty staU lions; besides these, the Prince of Peace, who is parti* cularly fend of every thing cennected with the cavalry, keeps here, on his uwn account, eighteen stalliens and a hundred and fifty mares. Aranjuez has also a stud of mules, for the court is not inclíned .to dispense entirely with these animais, ignoble, perhaps, but yet serviccable, and which have also their particular descriptien of beauty. Under the same roof with the staU lions eight male asses are kept, and three hundred beautiful mares are exclusively set apart for them. Lcaving these stables upon our left we enter upon the great alleys leading into the Calte de la Rcyna. The trees we have raentioned are not the only embellishments of this valley : upon the right hand it is bordered with shrubs and imderwood, which render its regularity more pleasing. Here, during lhe reign of Charles III. peaceably bounded the numerous herds of deer, against which his successor has declared war. But the chief deceratien of the Callc de la Reyjta is the garden of Primavera, or uf spring. Under Charles III. it extended only a thousand paces along ene side of the Callc de la Reyna. Charles IV. capicd it forward along the whole of this alley to the banks of the Tagus, 152 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

B m front and CHA°P!\Í! twelvc deep : thefiles, bcing led by Tihf^k^ ^e l,nnce> l»s two brothers, and a noble, clad in roíind Madrid.

Nothing can be more delightful than this garden, during thc season from which it derives its name. It is here lhat the fer- lílity of the valley appears in ali its luxuriance; nor are the use- fui artícles of cultivation neglected. Fruits, flowers, and vegetables, of cvery description, prosper hcre. Clumps of trees oppose their hospitable shade against the heat of thenoon-day sun. Odoriferous shrubs perfume the morning gale, and the balmy vapours they exhale descend again at sun-set, to heíghten the charms of tlie eveníng promenades 1 It is only twenty years since the whole ground, between the enclosure of the garden of the Primavera and the banks of the Tagus, was uncultívated and ©ver-run with wecds. The present king, when prínce of the Astúrias, took possessíon of it, and converted it into one of lhe most agreeable spots in the whole valley. Verdant lawns, shrubs, and parterres, have supplanted useless trees; serpentine walks lead through these new treaiures of vegetation. From one spring to the other, we see a vast blooming garden displayíng an ínfinite variety of forras, as well as of productions. A small dock-yard has been preserved ín this enclosure, and communi- cates with lhe Tagus by a gentle slope. Here ship-building is carried on in miniature, and this líttle navy has its carpenters and sailors. Farther on is a kind of harbour, defended by a baítery adapted to the situation. Some gôndolas are anchored under its protection, and small frigates elegantly decorated, which return the salutes of the artillery ín the harbour. The noise of these discharges, the cries of the sailors occupied in manceuvring the vessels, and the síght of the streamers and fiags floatíng Ín the wind, excite an idca lhat we are present at the games of Mars and Neptune. Aranjuez aflòrds cvery kind of enterlainment to be found at ã MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA.- 153

B K different colours, were marched in column to one of C°A°# „** the great courts of thc castle, accompanied by ^^^ trumpets*and kettle-drums, and preceded by ele- round SIadrId- gantly dressed grooms leading spare horses nchly eaparisoned. They then broke their ranks, separated and formed again, galloped round the circum- ference of the court, and occasionaliy crossed diagonally, displaying their skil! in borsemansliip and the brilliancy of their appearance. It was an endeavour to recai the tournaments of antient chivalry, but tame indeed was it in com- country retreat; hunting, fishing, walking, aud riding. No where can U be more delightful to cnjoy the plcasure of wandering, either with book in hand among the shrtibberies, or of riding on horseback or in a carriage through the allcys, vvhtch extend farther than the eye can reach. Formerly, deer and cven wild boars were seen peaceably walking in the streels, and you would have taken lhem for domcstic animais. Buflalocs, brought from Na- ples, perform the ofíice of bcasts of hurdcn. I have also seen a feyv robust camcls patiently submit to laborious drudgery at Aran- juez, but they were not longable to resist theinfluence of a foreign climate. At the samc periotJ two zebras and two goa- riaeos were to be seen sporting; as if in their native country, in, a raeadow contiguous to the road, while an elephant with his unwieldy form staJkçd peaceably along, amidst the curious spectators, who thronged to bchold him. It is thus that sovereigns should expose openly to view the foreign animais which they keep lockcd up in their menageries, with thc exception of thosc. whosc ferocity might render them dangerous if unchained. 154 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN" AND PORTUGAL.

parison with those brilliant and charming enter-

Fífty miles tainments. tound Madrid. " Experiments in gunnery form another prominent amnsement of Charles IV. in this retrcat, at the Huerto de Valência; and in horticulture in a garden partly bounded by tbe Tagus, bnt here Nature bas left little to be done. Tbe palace is not only handsome, bnt it has bcen enriched at the cxpense of St. Ildefonso.* Here also is tbe churcb of San Pascual, belonging to a convent of Franciscans, and two others; and, what is very necessary, an cxcellcnt royal hospital for every disease; for with ali its charms Aran- juez is not healthy, arising, as supposed by some, from tbe vapours of the banks of tbe Tagus. Tbe little town of Ocana, on tbe neighbouring beights, is therefore mu eh sought in autumn, to tbe abandonment of tbe royal residenec. Ocana is, bowever, more famed for its cavalry riding-scbool, under tbe auspices of General Ri- cardos. It is two leagues from Aranjuez, and by it we retum to the southern direction, wbicb bas been prescribed, and the road to Cadiz. La Mancha. " The plains of La Manchaf now exbibit them-

• It has good pictures by Guido, Guercino, Lanfranc, Poussin, and Mengs. f The country of Don Quixote and his exploits, the scenes of ivhich are pointed out, and the jncidents Uaditkmally told. The HILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 155

selves with a desola te aspect,r yct who does not BOOK i. ** ca AP. ii. warm at the recollection of Cervantes ! as well as }?^y*~! Madrid to Gadiz every labourerand female peasant in the country, «mUiem ««d. who yet delight to recount bis history.

El Vizo furnishes garters made by the young Eivuo. women, pf the finest wool, dyed of several colours, and oraamented with witty devices, which are iu niuch request; Jjut not so rnuch as a player on the gaitar, cr a singer of seguidillas. The peasant, in • the dress of Sancho, with a broad leathern girdle, astonishes by bis skill, as mucb as the women by their meneo, a rapid p!ance of the most voluptuous kind. The seguidilla resembles the English ballad of former times. La Mancha, wbere peopled, is the most light-hearted provi nce of Spain,* The cinnabar-mine of Almaden need here only Almaden. be mentioned. Guardiã bas ljttle to boast except its chureh.— Guardiã. Tembleque has 1500 houses and some industry. Tcmbieqne. The next stage (Canada de la Higuera) contains no canada de ia pther house than its wretched inn. Saltpetre is procured in this country.

fidelity of Cervantes in manners and history is acknowledged by every traveller.

* It may be permitted to mention here that the wine, forroerly a good deal drunk in England, of the colour of a fine ruby, is made at El Vizo and at Vai de Penas, five Icagues distant. The latter, rather superior, served the king of Spatn's tablc. 156 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

^HAF.KIÍ Madridejos succeeds, with its alleyof whiteelms an Madridr^irX^i- to Cadu ^ small clusters of trees ': then Puerto la Piche,' wuthemroad, a sma|| yj^gç at thc foot 0f two hi|]S. CrOSSÍllg, Madridejos. o °" PuertoUPkhe, \^ a ]0J1g an(j narrow stone bridge, the Guadiana in its fenny coursc* to Estremadura, to the Portu- ViUalU. guese frontier, and the sea, we arrive at Villalta, where are manufactures of coarse cottons. . Manimarcs. Five long leagues beyond it is Manzanares, a considerable but not very elegant town, the principal quarters of the carbineers. At two leagues distant are the domains of the Santa Cru*. Marquis de Santa Cruz, a name equally celebrated in the art of war and in politicai economy, who received from his monarch places, employments, and honours, because in his own concerns, as a grandee, he had shewn himself peculiarly íitting for them. Next to Santa Cruz, the chief town of thosedo-1

Almoradiel» mains is Almoradiel, a small village which is the southern frontier of the plains of La Mancha, in1 which, with little variation, a gloomy monotony prevails. Yevenea. Yevenez, a village twelve leagues from Aranjuez, is celebrated as a royal chase, for the olive-planta- tionsof itsbeautiful andspaciousvallcy; for the old

* At the little village of Villa Harta, it has been pretended that the course of the Guadiana becomes subterraneous, Geogra- phers have ascertained that it does not, but is coneealed by hígh raountains and other locaJjties. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 15? castle of Consuegra, rising from the summit of a chain of hills, at the foot of which is the town of Madrid to Cadií that name, containing 1500 houses.* The embel- »o**nrwd. lishment of the environs of Consuegra is a monu- Consueg™. ment of the Infant Don Gabriel. Previously to taking leave of La Mancha, its capital, Ciudad Real, antiently the chiefseat ofthc ciudadiuai. holy fraternity, (Santa Hermandad,) placed here to clear the country of robbers, ought not to escape notice; norAlmoyra, another town with 3000 in- Aimojri.. habitants, in the míddle of an extensive plain, four leagues from Santa Cruz. The country here is entirely a pastoral desert. The Sierra Morena approaches, withgloom in its sima Morena, aspect and terror in its name. Travellers formerly proceeded westward to the Black Forest, and, after having passed the town of Viso, ascended at the riskoftheir lives the Puerto dei Rey, one of its most rugged and uneven precipices. Let us return the compliment of a Frenchman to the English establishment of Ávila, by giving its due praise to the road of Le Maur, and offering it as an incite- ment to the frequent employmenfc of this department of military duty, the most pleasing union of military policy with politicai economy. M. Le Maur, long attached to the corps of

• It belonged lo the grand priory of Malta. ÍSÚ CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN ÁÍíD POfcTtGAt*

Spanish engineers, was cmploycd, under the auS-

Madrid to Cadíz piccs of count Florida Blanca, iri 1799, to render aouthera road. practicâl this difficult though niuch-fiequented pass, and lie constructed one of the finest roads in Europe; lie faced the dcclivities with niasonry, and erected walls, brcast-high, to protect the traveller from the broken precipices, adaptinghimself to nature by bridges or arehways as necessary, and projecting a useful collection of the waters which streamed through the valleys into a canal.

Dupenaperos. The rocks overtop Dispenaperos ; and, in the midst of the mountains, a cluster of cottages, is Las LaiCorredenu. Correderas. ucaxoiba. La Carolina, a modern town, is tlie capital of the cólonics of the Sierra Morena, which shared in the disgrace of their patron, Don Pablo Olivede. Their means of support were too tardy, and taxes too prematurely levied; the people therefore emi- grated, and the Germans settled here slowly va- nished, or mingled with the Spanish people. Guaromwu Guaroman, a town built at the same period, is more prosperou s. Bcjka. The Sierra Morena descends to Baylen, an antient town, in whose tcrritory is still one of the fine breeds of Àndalusian horses. A league heyond Baylen is the unfinished inn, (Venta,) a large establishment which again marks the disgrace of Pablo Olivede. A stone bridge xiow HILITAKY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 159 crosses the stream ofRumbler. which at the dis- nooKL * CM AP. I. - tance of half a league° falis into the Guadalquivir»* >Tr?Madrid toT^ Cada From tbe midst of the woods near the inn called «^ç^road. Andai uji*. Casa dei Rey, this ri ver is first secn on this side, and it is approached by a country fertile in moderate seasons. Jaen, capital of one of the four kingdoms of Ja«n. Andalusia, though six leagues farther on, must not be passed without menti.on, from its antiquity, testified by Roman inscriptions, and the dignity of its bishop, who was long grand inquisitor. It has, however, also the credit of rearing the most excellent horses. The bowels of the territory of Anduxar abound Audaiar. in metais, minerais, marbles, rock-crystal, &c. and its surface is equally abundantin spontaneous produetions of the vcgetable kingdom. Near the walls of this rich and antient city fio ws the Gua- dalquivir, which it has long been in contemplation to render navigable, but for the interference of three mills which obstruet the stream through its whole breadth, and the removal of which lias various difficulties. At three leagues and a half, on an eminence, is the large village of Aldeã dei Rio. And four AideadeiRw. leagues farther El Carpio, a town with 1500 in- EiCarpio. habitants. Withih view is Bujalance, in the cen- Bujaiance 160 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL*.

BOOK i. tre 0f an extensive plain covered with com, CM AP. II, » vines, and olives. We are now within five leagues Madrid to Cádis «outhernroad. of Córdova, half which is through indifferent Andalusit. country. The Guadalquivir is crosscd half way, at Las Las Ventaa de Alcolea. Ventas de Alcolea, by a fine bridge; and, keeping the ri ver on the left, arid the back of the Sierra CordoYi/ Morena on the right, we approach Córdova.*

• The antient Pairicia, the "motherof men of genlus;" the birth-place of the tvvo Senecas, Gallio, Acilius, the grandfather of the poet Lucan, of Averroes and several learned Arabians, aod of the great captam Gonzalvo de Córdova. In the first ages afler ita foundatlon it possessed a uníversity in which ali the sciences were cultivated. According to Strabo, the antient books of the Turditani, their poetry and laws, writtcn in verse, were preserved. Under the Romans the university \vas famous for phílosophy, moral ity, the art of oratory, and a Greek pro- fessorship. Among its studeuts, bestdcs the above, were Portius Ladro, famous for rhetoric at Rome, of whorn only one ha- rangue remains; Manelus, the preceptor of Séneca 5 and the poet Lucan. Cícero, in his oration for Archia, mentions several fe- raous poets of Córdova, who went to Rome; amongst olhers Sextilius Henna, ofwhom a single elegy remains, that in which he laments the death of the Roman orator. Under the Moors it was no less famous, and gave birth to some of their greatest men. Haviog stated thus far in th is way, it may be permítted to add that Córdova is the centre of Andalusia, the antient Boettca, Turditania, &c. the Elysium of Homer, the Paradise ofFenelon, and the scene of many famous exploits in arms. MIMTARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA.. *6l

On the side towards Madrid it lias nothing of Vf,**' iniportance, but òn the Cadiz side it forms a gen- JjJjJ^J^JÍj tly sloping and semicircular amphitheatre along ";|Jj™£ad' the banks of the river. Tlie adjacent country, not>vithstanding its fertility in com and olives, is yet naked. In the cíty there is nothing remains that is rcmarkable but its cathedral, formerly a mosque begun by the Moorisli king Abderama, to forni the second Mahomctan temple, and converted into its present use by Ferdinand, on the conquest of Cór- dova. In it is a forest of columns, of varíous coloured marbles or jasper. It is vast, and approaches to magnificence. Two mile-stones are placcd at one entrance, which were dugup within the cathedral in 1532. It lias a court, largc and umbrageous, the seat of perpetuai coolness. There is a collegiate church, fifteen parish churches, forty convents, and a great number of píous foundations. Ought \ve, says an intelligent writer, to look elsewhere for the causes of its de- population and misery ? Once celebrated for manufactures of silks, linens, &c. Córdova lias no longer any other branches of índustry to boast than some triíling manufactures of ribbands, lace, hats, and baize. The ífhtient palace of the Moors, hpwever, has VOL, I. M 162, CAMPAIGNS ÍN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

EOOKI. t, convertéd into stábles. in whicli a hmidrcd CHAÍ. II. een ' >r**^0-f Andalusian hòrses are usually kept. Their gene- AUd5mroad' a^°&y *s carefully preserved. The name and age of each is written over' the place in which hc stands; and, as they are very spirited, their hinder feet are fastened dowh to iron rings, fixed to a staple in the groimd; but, notwithstanding this confinem ent, they showed ali their vivacity. The mares are kept in the environs of Córdova, and, in the proper seasons, the horses are taken to them. The foal ãlways receives the name of the dam ; the horses of Andalnsiã are naturally chaste, and there is nothing to fear in placing them near mares, but, after they know tliein, they are with difficulty reduced to obedience. From Córdova to Ecija is ten leagues. Tlie road is good, and along it lie the habitations of a small nnmber of tlie colohists of the Sierra Mo- rena. Carlotta and Carolina, two of tliese colo* ■nies, are under one governor. Their numbers are * very small. Lunana and Fucnte Palmera are othcrsj beyond Ecija. Eeiji. Ecija is antíent, large, and pleasant ;* churches and liouscs are here sometimes ridiculously painted ón the outside. It contains about 6000 hcarths.

* Fragmcnts of marble columns, trunks of statues, slones covered with inscriptions, attestits antient splendour. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 163

It lies betwecn two hills, ou the west bauk of the * ^.^J* y Xcnil, in its course to Grenada, and is, therefore, w]^£^i2 subject to its inundations as well as intense heat. Jjjj™^"1' The territory is fertile, but the people not industrious. Statues of St. Paul and the present royal family are placed at the entrance of the town. At a distance is seen Estipa, and extensivo fertility. The colonies of the Sierra Morena, which end at Luisiana, begin at La Conccpcion de Almura- diel, on the other side of the mountains, a distance of more than forty leagues. Carmona, wliich boasts a Roman gate of the Carmona, time of Trajan, a neat town, with an ugly modem church, commands a view of vast plains, -covered with olivc-trees, and producing abundance of the best wheat. Passing six leagues through vineyards, olive- grounds, and rows of flourishing aloés, with every other produee but population, we arrive at Sevillc, Seviíie. the second city in the kingdom,* which may not be passed without observation, although the road no longer runs through k, but through the village

* Whoever has not secn Seville, has not seen a great wonder, says the Andalusian.

Quien no ha visto Sevilla, No ha visto maravilla. AI 2 1°4 CÁMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAt.

CHAF.ÍI.1" °^ Alcola, two leagues higher up the Guadaí- filadridtoCadiz " X3w3Td' • Seville is admirably situated in the midst of fer* tility. Contemporary history records, that, wheri it was taken by Ferdinand, thrce hundred thousand Moors came out of it, exclusive of thosc who had perished during asiege of sixteen months, and such as chose to remain. In 1700, Seville is said to liave contained 16,000 silk-looms, of ali sizes, in whicli alone 130,000 persons had been employed. A century after, little more than 2000 looms remained, and the whole population did not amount to 81*000 : of these, perhaps, 20,000 were carried off by contagion in 1800 and the íollow* íng year. There are herc, in addition to the cathedral, twenty-five parish eh u reli es, and five chapeis of ease; a cominaudery of St. John D'Acre,- thirty- one convents for men, twenty-iiinc nunneries, three congregations of canons regular, three religious communities, called Beaterios, and several charitable institutions ;—where (one is tempted to ask) are the labouring orders of the civil com* niunity ? The archbishopric, with that of Toledo, still richer, was given to the son of the infant Don Louis, (known as count de Chincon,) as well as JULITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 165 the Roman purple, as was said to preclude poli- *™*£ tical difficulties. jitdnàCcIdu The catliedral is, as may bc supposed, emi- £^™,d- nently remarkable, It contains statues of a certain exceli ence, and supcrb tombs, comprising those of St. Ferdinand and Columbus ;* spacious chapeis, and profusion of pictures, particularly those of the celebrated native artist, Murillo. The steeple, or giralda, is beautiful, 250 feet high, and crowncd witli a statuc. Over one of the naves is a library, by no means unused, of 20,000 volumes ; indeed, a general taste seems to prevail at Seville. The alcazar, of Moorish origin, is magnificent, and had nearly tempted Philip V. to remove the royal residence from Madrid. Here are antique statues, yet littlc known, found in the neighboui>

* It would be unpardonable, although the body is strongly asserted to be at Spanish St. Domingo, to omit the simple epitaph Inscribed on this cenoUpb of the great Columbus, gTeat In every sense of the word, in his views, his measures, his sufFerings, and perseveranee. He nflen appears, in every part of his con, duet, the exemplar of a great general. The distich ís thus :

A Castilia'y Afragon, Otro Mundo dio Cólon.

The tomb of St. Ferdinand ís covered with Hebrew, Arábio, Latin, and Spanish, inscriptions. Íê6 CAMPAIGNS IJí SPAI3T AND POUTUGAL.

BOOK i. h00(\ 0f the city. a pursuit in whích Don F. Bruna '^^yS is recorded as mdefatigable. Madrid lo Cadiz sonthcmioad. Of the mint, formcrly rerríarkable for its eco- Andalusia. nomy, little can now be said. These are establishments ahvays prone to decay. ; The foundiy of brass cannon, which, with that of Barcelona, is said to supply ali the Spanish arsenais in Europc, is extensive, and beautifully arrançed. The metliod of Maritz, with little variation, is followed. The exchange, or lcnja, is a place of great consideration; it was intended to deposit there ali the arehives of Spanish America: the archives of exploits, crimes, and miseries, says Bourgoing, wherc liistory and philosophy' will long be able to find ample treasures! The tobacco and snuff manufactory is a prodigious establishment, surrounded hy ditches and draw-bridges.—The tobacco comes in leaf hither from the Havannah, and is manufactured with

great precaution,—:thc çigars separately. . The school of navigation in St. Elmo is an object of pleasing importance. Dd Oro. Tne Roman tower, Del Oro, for the protection of the shipping, enabled the Moors to throw a chain across the Guadalquivir to the suburb of Iriana, on the opposite shore. This river, it must be recollected, rises on one MILITARY VIEW OF TIIE PENÍNSULA. .167

sídc the chain of mountains called Sierra de Se- BOOKL CHAP. II. guia, and directs its course to the ocean: the J-*~v~^ Madrid lo Cadu Segura, springing from the otlier side, proceeds «uthe™ road. towards the Meditcrranean by Murcia, Orihuela, Carthagena, &c. Fonnerly the largest ships ascended to the very quays of Seville, and some to Córdova: this is not now done by fifteen leagues,—no higher than the villagc of Bonanza. On the banksof the Guadalquivir, facing Iriana, a walk shaded by trees is due to don Lerida, intendant of Andalusia, and qnays, &c. to Olavido: the anathemas of the Inquisition may suppress the mention of bis name, but cannot the recollection of his memoryl Small canais, fountains, and alleys of trce*s, adorn the city; the environs are well cultivated and pleasing, with country-houses, orehards, &c. It has already been said the modera road from Carmona to Cadiz lies through Alcala.-—Here are the remains, preserved by a convent of monks reposing ncar theni, of the antient Itálica, built AntientitaBca. '.by Scipio Africanus for the accommndation of his woundcd soldiers, and the birth-place of Trajan, Adrian, and, it is believed, of Silius Italicus.* The town of Utrera contains about 2000 utrm, hearths.

• Sec the tour in Spain of M. Brousso«et. 168 CAMPAÍGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK r. The streets of Xeres* are generally straight and CHAT. IX. ° J 0 ^-""V^-f wide: its alcazar has become a place of pub- SladridtoCadiz rouihem road. He resort, and commands the delichtful. country Andalusia. xeres. around. Not only the vineyards but every produetion flourishes here:—olives, pastures, pines and oak- trees, hemp-fields, &c. The breed of horses is, however, on the decline; its colts, the best in Andalusia, being bought up at three years old for the army, has lessened the number of mares. About twenty looms only are employed in the manufacture of coarse cloth, some linen, and ribbons, and for these they are indebted to. a patriotic sçhool and some generous individuais. Within sight of Cadiz is every way the most delightful and celebrated Carthusian monastery in Spain. The lovcrs of art find here the best pictures of Zurbaran and Luke Jordans, and the lover of humanity the consolation of seeing the pious fathers employed at the cradle and the grave; they educate thirty poor children of the town, and afford an asylum to twelve poor men past the power of Iabour. Arcos. The Guadalete is to be forded to reach the town of Arcos, situated in the centre of fertility,

• Itis unneccssary to note the derivadon of Xeres, or sheré, wine. MILITARY VIEW OF TIIÉ PENÍNSULA. 16*9 amidst groves of orange-trees, on an almost inac- BOOKL ° ° ' c«Ar. II. cessible rock, from which are to be seen the moun- ,vr'^y~^, Madrid to Cadu tains of Ronda. Medina Sidónia, and Gibraltar, «onthçnwoad. The Guadalcte partly surrounds Arcos, and theri rages and loses itselfin a deep valley suitable to its supposed destination by the poets.* Four bare leagues occur between the convent nnd the modern town or island of Leon. In the plaín of Xeres was foiíght the battle which destroyed the em pire of the Goths, and subjected Spain so long to the Arabs. I3ut attention is now attracted to the panorama of Cadiz from the top of the hill, half way between Xercs and Port St. Mary. The circum- ference of the bay.is here perceived; the two points which form the entrance,—Fort St. Sebas- tian on the one side and the town of Rota on the othcr.—In the front is Cadiz, distinguished from the low narrow ncck of land which separates the city from the island of Leon; then the irregular contour of the bay to La Carracca, Puerto Real, and Port St. Mary. From Xeres there are two approaches to Cadiz, the one leading round the bay by land, and the other crossing it; by the former,' after passing the Carthusian convent and the woods of pines,

* Oblivionis Lcthe of the antients. 170 CAMPAIGNS IN SPA1N AND PORTUGAL.

the handsome towns of Pòrt St. Mary and Puerto

Real appear.—Tbereri are left to thc rierht, as well MsdridioCwlu f ... íouthen.road. as the Guadalete, which soon after divides itself into two branches, one of them discharging itself into the bar of Port St. Mary, the otbcr proceeding towards Puerto Real, distinguished by thc name of rivcr San Petro. This littlc rivcr is then crossed by the brjdge of Suazo to cnter the island of Leon, which derives its insulation from an anticnt navigable canal. PortSt.M»i7. Port St. Mary is situated near the moiith of the Guadalete, wtiich lias formed a dangerous barof the sand carried down with it into the bay: the terrors of this bar are, liowever, increased by the boatmen to serve thcir interest. c»dit. Cadiz, named by the Phocnicians Gadez, or enclosure, is of sufficient ant-iquity; ít was deemed by the Greeks the western extremity of the world. The Romans cqually honoured it; they dignified "it with temples to the year, months, Industry, the divinity of Commerce, and even Poverty. To the embellishment, increase, and comfort» of Cadiz mu eh was contributed by Xerena, 0'Reil- ly, Morla, and Solano, its latter goveraors;—roads were raisetl, streets were paved, the walk of Ala-

meda gaíned from the sea; and villas created; and . MILITA TIY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 171 wliat is better the hospital improvcd and extended BOOK L * * • CHIP. I.. for persons of ali classes who require succour or i-r"v"^"/ care; indigcnt families, the agcd, the insane, in- AndaWi*. curablcs, vagrants, prostitutes, and children of ali who were unable to maintain th em. The commissary of every quarter delivered évery week to the governor a list of ali the persons of both sexes, within bis jurisdiction, who requircd reliefj and the governor wrote his directions in the margin; thus the miserable poverty of mendicaney, or unknown want, had no existence.* Cadiz has, however, not yet obtained to. be completcly supplied with-water, without reference to the boats, which have long brought it from Port St Mary. This is certaínly the raost opulent, and perhaps ■one of the fmest, cities in Spain, notwithstanding the smallness of its size, and the impossibility of its extension, It snffered much by the contagion of 1800-t

* Nothing can deserve more praise than lhe charitable instU ■tutions of Spain, the cconomy of which would be peculiarly àdvantageous In thosc of England, to ivhich vast sums are sub- scribed, sometimes with comparatively so small a proportion of .good. f It may be remarked herc, that it was observed West-Ia- 172 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

The emporium of the wealth of two worlds, as

Cadiz. it is calledj it possesses almost evcry thing in abundancc: and verdant ineads and fertile corn-ficlds grace its aspeet. Of the minds of the people, however, it is ob- 'seryed, that pleasure absorbs alí the physical fa- culties and commercial calculations, ali the powers of the mind. There are at Cadiz, perhaps, twcnty looms for silk ribbons and netting whicb are in great repute, though they have been charged with not manu- facturing many of the articles which bear their narne. The streets of Cadiz are broad, straight, and at present almost ali paved with a large white and smooth stone, so cut as to prevent its being slippery. The houses are large, commodious, cool, and well contrived, and íilled with merchants of the most extensive connexions and irn- raense property. There are also several regular squares, of which the largest is that of the fa vou ri te Spanish saint António. The Franciscans, or Recollects, are settled here in a very flourishing state.

dians escaped this calamíty, and old ínhabítants, and women more than men. MtLITARV VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 173

B Cadiz contains a school of navigation, a naval °H°*£ acaclemy, and a commodious well-provided ob- ^^V^* servatory, long under the direction of Vicenti c**'*- Tofino: its commerce is prodigious as well as its retail trade, yet there is no èxchange. In the bay of Cadiz places are necessarily as- signed for the difíèrent vessels according to their destination.—At a proper distance, in front of the city, are rhose from European ports; eastward, in the channel of the Trocadero, where is a dock for ship-bir.lding, the Indiaraen are laid up and imrigged. At the extremity of this channel, on the banks of the handsome village of Puerto Real, are magazines, arsenais, and dock-yards, for the merchant-service. The entrance of the Trocadero is guarded by two forts, Matagordo on the continent, and M>t>eordo «ná ' ° Fort Lo\u3. Fort Louis on an islet left dry at low water. The line of fire of these two forts is crossed by that of one of the puntales on the opposite shore; ali vessels are, therefore, obliged to sail within reach of these batteries to pass from the great bay into that of the puntales, (points,) at the bottom of which the unrigged ships of the royal- navy are moored, ncar the magazines. The space on which these are erected (La Car- racca) is laved on the west by the Santi Petri, ^« s. Petri. and much threatened by the Soa; to it access is 174 CAilPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

strictly preeluded on this side. Thcrc arethrec docks,t\voofthemforbuilding sixty-four-gun ships. Andai usia. WaBd of Leon. The island of Leon is separated from La Car- xacca by a basin, nine hundred feet long and six hundred broad, from which are cut two canais, the onc runntng to La Carracca, the othcr to tbe sea. From this town it is a short quarter of a league to the cliannel which iscrossed to La Car- racca.* The insular town of Leon was buitt only in the middle of the last century,^ and has, duiing the short space of time since, wondcrfully in~ creased; its principal street is a full quarter of a league in length, and handsome, tbough with too much decoration of the. houses, with a spacious

Árwiial of * To the arsenal of La Carracca admission is here given by La Carracca. roeans of a privileged conductor. Objecls of particular admiration are the liabitation of the galley-slaves, and lhe rope-walk, which is handsome and six hundred paccs in length. Tbe Spanish cordage and cables are not inferior to any in Europe; the cordage is better made, as well as more durable, because, In heckling the herop, ali the knotty parts are picked out and used in caulking, and in both cases are an improvement;—the kingdom of Grenada furnishes the greater part, Arragon and Navarro some, and the remainder is imporled from Riga. Cop- per-mtlls, for flatting Mexican copper for sheathing, have been established at Ferrol and else%vhere, under the care of don Eugénio Izquierdo: tliat hitherto used was from Trieste and Svveden. .MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 175 and regular public sqnare. It lias an nncommon B™*f v -, A air of cleanliness and opulence.1 and an abundant * r>r^" * Aiu Jusi». market. The CoIIege of Marines has also been laiand of Leoa, removcd hither from Cadiz till tbe completion of an- cdifice erecting for them in the new viilage of San Carlos, contiguous to La Carracca, which will include ali that bclongs to the rmlitary marine. Returning to Cadiz, it only remains to observe," that, with the exception of some edifices belonging to foreigners, the city, dedicated to business, contains few monuments of the arts. The old Italian opera has been converted into a news-room, and place of entertainment called the Camorãi The custom-house is a good new buildirig, and the theatre has much taste.* The walls of Cadiz are considered more an embellishment than defence. The fortifications, toward the land-gate, are in good condition. The entrance to tbe great bay would be very imperfectly defended by Fort St Althuni on one side, and Fort Sebastian on the other. The lines of íire of these forts do not cross each other, one situated on the continent, the other connected with the city by a rugged beach, covered at high water. On its tower is placed the liglit for the entrance of the port.

* Õf the cathedral, the church of San António, or that of the Capuchíns, in this point of view, - nothing need be said. ]?6 CAMPAIGNS IK SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

1, TIie strait rotectecl tne íorts of CH°A?. w. > P ty " Matagorda v^-v-*^ and San Lorenzo, is crossed to go to Chíclana, Andílusia. Pmgress east- which may be termcd a suburb or place of recrea- waru frora Ca- ^ * g: tion to Cadiz, and which, with wind and tide, is reached in two honrs : leaving thc island of Leon to the right and Carracca to thc left, we pass under the bridge of Suago, which joins the wholc island, on the north-west part of which Cadiz is situated to the continente At this bridge the bay becomes a broad canal, which soon after divides itself into several branches, and one of which lcads to Chiclana, on the right bank of the canal, commanded by several eminences, and the ruins of an antient Moorish castle. Here are situated the villas of the merchants of Cadiz, snrrounded by ali the delights of our most celebrated wateríng places, embellished in spring and antumn by the graces of the ladies of Cadiz,—the amiable Gadi- tanas. The eye here embraces Leon, Cadiz, the bay> and places snrrounding it, and sea beyond it; it folio ws the course of St. Petri to its mouth, and eastward Medina Sidónia, whence blows the dreadful Solana : likewise the vast southern plains of Andalusia. Through these, covered with corn-fields and AigçiSíM. pasturage, we proceed fourteen leagues to Alge- MILITAR? VIEW" OF THE PENÍNSULA. 177

B0OKl siras,* with VejuJ on the right. Medina Sidónia on O * CU AP. II the left, and only a few cortijos (huts of the la- ^-*^v^*^ ^ ti . \ ProgrcM ea«t- bouring people) on the way; numerous colonies of wwiufCadu. horned eattle, and some troops of mares, form the only animatcd part of lhe scene, for the first ten leagues. The steep ascent then commences of the chaín of mountains which termina te at the west coast of the bay of Gibraltar. The eye now conimands some of the outlines of the fortress Álgeziras, its bay, and the two small rirers which flow into it, the town of St. Roche, dcscent to the lines, the flat and narrow ncck of land wliith separates th em from Gibraltar, and, in the distance to the right, a faint view of the indentations of the African coast. Álgeziras is situated on an easy slope by the seà Aige»m. side, washed by the Miei, which here falis from the iieighbouring hills into the bay, and lias on its right bank a small dock-yard; close to it are the ruins of the antient Moorish citadel. The town had privileges conferred on it to induce refugees from Gibraltar. It is splendidly supplied with water by an aqueduet of hewn stone. It receives a few cargoes of com and brandy, and exports charcoal. Near the shore is the small island of Palomas, p*iomu.

* Tbus coramencing the tour of the outer circle, formerly prescribed by the present wriler1. VOL. I. N 178 CAMPA1GNS Itt SPA1N AND P0RTU0AL.

\vith a fort garrisonecl by a detaehment from Alge- ziras, the whole resembling an English pigeon- Pwgrcss eastward of CadLs. house. From Algeziras the packet sails twiee a week to Ceuta, a Spanish sea-port on the opposite coast of Africa, at five leagues distance. The two leagues bctween Algeziras and St. Roche are passed first alongsíde the bay, next by ferrying the Rio de los Pielmones and the Guaraípe, and then ascending the back of the hill on which stands St. Roche. St. Roche, a mean town, but in the midst of agreeable cultivation.

SpanisL Urna. The soldier is now on classic ground ; lie approaches the lines of St Roche, and, facing to the right, contemplates with awe that bold out-post of Britain, the towering Gibraltar. The camp of St. Roche lias long suffered decay. This military monnment, celebrated by its circumstances, and commemorating British valour, cannot be regarded without various emotions. Gibraltar. Leaving on the left Buene Vista, a large town on an eminence, where General Crillon and his staff resided, and which commands a view of the plaee, the two seas, and Africa, the camp is best crossed diagonally towards the Meditecranean. The fort of St. Barbe, forming the right of the lines, is welj observed, as well as the shores of the bay. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 179

The traees of the works of the eclebrated siege B00KL ° CO AV. JJ. of Gibraltar are diseoverable; the trenches and Gibraltar. epaulements of General Alvarez, the large stone tower callcd the Tower of the Mill, whieh, plaeed between both fires, was the only object which escaped. On the side of the Mediterranean the rock is covered with batteries; near a small tower close to the water the flrst English piequet is stationed. Here is the mouth of a mine, which the Duke de Crillon had formed within the roek a short time before the peace. Another it scems was formed at the commeneement of a small path leading to Poínt Europa, between the foot of the mountain, where it ceases to be perpendicular, and the sea. The efficacy of these mines was not tried. The two hostile generais walked over the works at the close of the siege with mutual eompli- ments.*

* On this subject the mlliíary reader need scarcely be referred to Drinkwater's History of the Sicge of Gibraltar. The following sketches from the enemy, however, it is conceived ought not to be here omitted. " The court of Spain,"say they"weary of the fruitless blockade of Gibraltar, which excitcd the ridicule of ali Europe, and of the besieged themselves, seriously determined to takethis fortress by some extraordinary expedient or other, against which its steepness, its formidablc artillery, and ali the skill of general Elliot, should N2 ISO CAMPAIGXS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

^BA°KitL ^ie ^°^0W'no are some of the most strikíng objects of the fortt ess víçwecí tliis way; Gibraltar Gibraltar.

prove unavailing. Plans poured in from ali quarters; some bold to extravagance, others so whirasical that it was scarccly possible tolookupon theni as serious.—Soveral of thiskind I re« ceived mysclf. One of those sent to the ministers formally proposed tò throw up, i» front of the Unes of St Roche, a prodigious roount, higher than Gihraltar, whích would consequentíy deprive that fortress of its principal mcans of defenec. The author had calculatcd the quantity of cubic fathoras of earth, the number of hands, and the time, that would be required by this enorraous undcrtaking, and proved that it would bc less expensive and less destruetive than the prolongation of the siege upon the plan on which it had been begun. Another proposcd to fill the borabs with a substanceso strongly mcphitic, that, on bursting in the fortress, they wouW eíther put to flight or poison the besíeged with their exhalations. The plan of d'Arçon was at length presented, and engaged the more serious attention of the Spanish govcrnrmrnt. This plan, first projected at a distance from Gibraltar by that engineer, who, notwithstanding the issue of that faraous sícge, still enjoyed the reputation of a man of great talents, was afterwards matured and roodified by him within sight of the fortress. But how raany crosses was he dooraed to experience i Frcnch irapatieoce, national jcalousy, the intrigues of rivalship, the suspicious alarras of aathority, the pretensions of self-love, the thoughtlcss impctuoiity of some of bis collegues, the perfidious plots nf others, the presumptuous iraproviderice of ai most ali, conspired to frustrate aplan, which, though so unsucccssful, those persons cannot forbear admiring who have had an opporlunity to- studyall its detailá. MII.ITARY VIEWOFTUE TEXINSULA. 181 is steepest on the side of tlie Mediterrancan, and * J°,K„^ cleelines towards the bay of Algeziras. On this ^J^f

Scarcely any thing is known respecting it, cxcept what relates (olhe ten floating batteries, whieh, on the ISth of September, 17S2, foolislily exposed lhemselvcs to the fire of Gibraltar, and were rcduced to ashes by rcd-hot shot from the English batteries. This raethod of summing up tlie rosults of enterprizes is very convenicnt for indolence nr malignily, but would furnish history wilh very crroneous elements, Enlightened by cotemporary mcmoirs, lier pages wtll inform pnsterity, that, if this great undertaking failed, it was from a concurrence of circumstances whieh the genius of d'Arçon could not possibly controul. One of the principal was lhe hurry with whieh the plan was put in execution, before ali the necessary preparatíons had been made for en- suring its suecess. It is well known that the ten batteries had been so construeted as to present to the fire of the fortress nnc side covered with blinds three feet thiek, and kept continually wet by a very ingenious contrivance. The rcd-hot balis were thus expeeted to be extinguished on the spot where they penetrated; but this first measure prnved incomplete. The aukwardness of the caulkers prcvenled the working of the pumps whieh were designed to keep up the humidity. It sueceeded only on board one of them, the Talla-piedra, and that very imperfectly. But this was not ali; though the placc where they were to take their stalions had been but very slightly sounded, they had received instruetions what course they were to pursuc, in order to avoid strikíng, nnd lo place themselves at a proper distanee. This precaution likewisc proved unavailing. Don Ventura Moreno, a brave seaman, but incapable of combining and ex- ecuting a plan, stung to the qulck by a letter sent him, in the evening of lhe 12th of September, by General Crillon, whieh contained this expression : " If you do not make an attack, you 182 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKL CHAP. II. takis fortification has multipliedI the meansofde- ^rT*^'w' fence in trcmendous variety. Between the bay Gibraltar. J *

are a man withouí honour:"—hastencd the departure of the bat- Icries, and placcd th cm in an order contrary to the plan which had been adopted. The diflcrcncc between these two positioni contributed more than any thing else to the result of the day. In plate XVIII. is shcwn lhe part of the fortress against which the batteries werc inteiuled to act, the position which they ought to liave taken, and that which they actually oceupied. In consequence of this mistake, no more than two could station thcmselves at the concerted distance of two hundred fathoms. These werc the Pastora, commanded by Moreno himself, and the Talla-picdra, on boa rd of which werc the prince of Na

* The worthj d'Arçon, in the first moment of bis consternation, ackoow- lodgcd lhat he alone wai to blaroe for the falai issue of that day. I had (say» M. Bourgoin$) for a coiikidcrabJ* time in my possession the originai of tb« J84 CAMPAIONS IX SFAIN AND PORTUGAL.

spaee for a very narrow causeway, commanded entirely by thc giins. Between thc swamp and bay a small dykc runs along by tlie sea-side, to confine thc water, and witiiin the inclosure of the fortress the niarsh is bordered by a paltsade, be- gjnníng at the foot of the niountain and terminating at the sei. From this point is seen the Old Mole, a kind of narrow jetty lincd with batteries. It entirely inarks thc new onc, half a league in thc rear.

Scarcely liad Gibraltar foilcd beneath íls walls this formidable attcmpt, whcn, in sight ofpur armies and our squadrons, lhe place was rc-vicluallcd by admirai Howc, who aftcrwards, with his thirty-six ships, boldly entered lho Medilerranean. He was seen, from Buena Vista, passing from onc sca lo the olher; every spec- tatpr supposcd lhat he was running into the jaws of destruetion. Tlie fifty-lwo ships whieli were in thc bay weighcd anchor and pursucd him. But Howc baffled our mtmceuvrcs, as fortunc had done our plans, and returned through the straits in the same security as he had entered them.

sliort, but cmphatic, Ictter. which he wrole to Montmnrin, the ambassador, from tlie very shorc of Algeriros, atuid the dying sound of the arlillery, and by the light of the hnniing baUeries. It was as Jollows: " I have burned thc tcm|ile of Ephesus: every tliing is lost, and through my fault. What coraforts me under my misfortune is, that thc glory of tlie two kings remains untarnislicd." On recovering, howcw, from the sliock. d'Arçon wrote a leamed memoir, in which hc took great pains to modify the confession which had escaped him, and to prove that hc had more than one partner; or rather that circurostancc» thc most imtovrard and impcrioui consOtuted his onJy fault. MILITAItY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 185

Between Cadiz and Malaga the country is beau- *™*l' ti fui, variega ted by Iofty mountains and charmirig ^~£^f plains to the town of Antequera, on tbe summit JJJjL,,. ekt of a hill. Hence for seven 1 cagues winds aii excellent road, ovcr bills covered with vineyards. The situation of Málaga is deligbtful, shel- Maiag». tered on the nortb and east by Iofty mountains, whose summits are sometimes covered with snow: towards the west extends a fertile plain, watered by two small livers. The sides of the mountains are covered with almond, olive, orange, Iemon, and fig, trees, and with vineyards celebraled every where, of which in the district there are six thousand, which on an average yield more than seventy thousand arrobas* of wine. Rain is unknown in this climate. 3\íalaga is a large rather than handsome town, its streets being narrow and ill paved : it has three suburbs: its harbour, which 'may be entered or quitted with any wind, is also large and eommodious, capable, as is said, of containing ten ships of the line and four hundred merchantmen, and, with its territory, forms the importance of the city. The Guadalmcdina, however, which runs through it, commits destruetive ravages by inundation in rainy seasons; and, carrying much sand with it,

* One half of this quantjty is expojrted. 186 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

may hereafter endanger the choaking upof tlic

North-east barbour, the entrance of whieh is formed by two \ESZ, moles at about three thousand fathoins clistancefrom Maing». eaeh otlier. The sea is receding from the eoast. The extensive eommerce of Málaga will be notieed in the general detail. It contained in 1804, aceordmg to Bourgoing, síxty first-rate houses in every branch of eom- meree. There are manufactures of silk, velvet shags, stoekings, thread, hats, soap, paper, &c. It is also in teres ted in those of woollen cio th, baizes, and serge, at Coin, Junquerra, and in particular at Grazelmo, whieh, partieulariy the latter, are in great request; Ronda and Anqueterra havc the same, to whieh the latter adds Moroeeo lea- thcr and Marbella crucibles. VeiciMaioga. Along the sea-eoast runs a road to Velez Málaga, a neat little town, a quarter of a leaguc from the Meditcrranean; whieh manufactures playing-eards, and, what is better, has in its neighbourhood the sugar-cane cultivated, from whieh sugar and rum, not inferior to that of the West Indies, have been obtained. This is chiefly attributed to Quilty de Valois, who in his works used the pit-eoal of Eng- ■Jand. Moorish villagcs, in situations almost inaccessible, also are spread from this quarter, often surrounded, in the niost pieturesque manner, by double inclo- 1IILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 187 sures of rocks, now the haurits of smugglers, and ^í^,,1; sometimes robbers. ^T^^^ Proceeding by a small retrogradatory progress £™S. through Aquetilia, four leagues are passed o ver mountains, including Orospeda and the Pena de los Orospeda.. Enamerados,* before the environs of Loxa are E^ÍV reached, covered with pasturage and cattlc, and not without fruits. Ou the banks of the Genil, and at the foot of a

* It need scarcely be recalled to the attention of the young reader, that this U the region of love and chivalry, and tales of austere Moors and blooming ladies. This rock, as its narae iraperts, that " of the lovers," is imraortalízed by an tncident superior to the Leucadian leap of Sappho, which to omit were treason agaínst the Cytherean queen. A young knight, of the most interesting person, made prisoner by the Moors at Gra- nada, so won upon theMoorish sovereign,byhisarniahIemanners as well as prowess, that his condilion was changed from that of prisoner to friend, and the prince entertained him at his court.— The daughter of the Moor entertained the same sentíments as her father, with the additional ardency of a female passion, which was returned on the part of the knight with full force. Their tender meetings could not be long eoncealcd, and they therefore determined on quitting Granada and unítíng theraselves among the christians. Thçy were soon pursued from the palace. What will not love cfFect ? They hastily climbed a rock almost inaccessible; their pursuers, invigorated by hope and fear, followed and surrounded them: the lovers instinctively rushed into eaeh others Arrns, and, precipitating themsetves togcther, closed their first hours £>f sorrow ín a happy death, from the Pena de los Enamorados, 188 CA UPA TONS IS SPAÍN AND PORTUGAL..

BOOK i. mountain, about a day's journey from thc capital v-*pY^^» of Granada, is Loxa, a considerable town. of Moor pragrni. j ri»;in, and thcrcfore surrounded by rocks.— Granada, sn 0 o > J L*)Xa- The remains of a castle which defended it is now peaceably possessed by a hermir. For the Moors as well as the Romans dearly earned l)y arms the warlike edifíces which were to become the calm re- treats of Cliristian cenobites. The environs, however, are fertilc, and the monntains covered with pasturage and cattlc. The road agrecable, edged by large trces. ía-itaFe. Santa Fe, consisting of two long streets, built by Ferdinand and Isabel la, arose from the siege of Gra- nada, from which it is two leagues, and supplied the place of a Spanish camp that had taken fire.

Cit5oíGranada Crossing the famous Vega, or flat country, eight leagues widc, twenty-sevcn in circumfercnce, and surrounded by mountains, watered by the Genil, the Dano, thc Monacliil, the Vagro, the Dilar, and thirty-six fountains, we approach Granada.—Gra- nada, in which God gives, says the proverb, ali the uccessaries of life to those by whom lie is beloved: ■—o quicn Dios le quiso bien, en Granado ie Dio de comer, Nature has certainly been very prodigal iu rural beauty and the temperature of the climate, btit her favours are greatly neglected. This city, the great depository of the religion, MILITAIIY VIEW OF T1IE PEXIXSULA. 1S9

K 1 manners, customs, and magnificcnce, of the àloors, ^A°F II ' is at tlie foot of the Sierra Nevada (snowy moun- i-Tv"^'"^ gr s tains,) and stands upon two hills separated from the £.™ ,5 Graiiada Darro, which, witli the Gcnil running under the aadthcM«or>. walls, are formed from the SHOWS, and are supposed to carry down particles of gokl and silver. The loss of Granada is constantly rcgrctted by the IMoors, who incessantly pray for its restoration. Their Iast ambassador, contemplating the Moorish monumcnts, by pcrmission, wcpt for the folly of his ancestors in losing it. It had formerly twcnty gates, some of which remam. There is not a wall but bears some marks of their power. The inscriptions «are numerous and singular, as that of the hospital " for poorand sick Moors," callcd the Mint, in the court of which is a fine reservoir; ecclcsiastics and architccts have imi- tatcd here this spirit for inscriptions; as in the cathedral, not deficient in clcgance, formcd on the plan of the human body; the chancery, or court of justice.* The Alhambra it were vain to describe so bricfly TI» Aiimmi.r*, aujierb remai»» of as requisite1 to the present plan. Its í*ate is near Moomu i i t-> grandicuf. the chancery, ornamental by a fountain, near which is the principal entrance, guarded by a strong

• Two only of the se chanceries, or courts fbr appeal-causes, cxísl in the kingdom, the other is at Valladc-Iid. The council of CastUe decides mere poiuts of law." 190 CAMPAIGNS IX SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

tower, and, agreeably to the Asiatie custom of hav-

North-cast ing their tribunais at their gates, eallecl the Gate progrcs», City of Granada of Judgcment. A key here, as well as every where »nd the Moors. else, with the inseription, marks the symbol of the Moorish, as the eross does of the Christian, faith. The key was also the armoriai ensign of the An- dalusian Moors, who here entered Spain ; and Gi- braltar, (Ghiblaltath, or mountain of the entry,)was henee deemed the key of the Mediterranean. The hand near the key was a mysterious designation of Providenee, of which the fingers and joints signi- fied the five fundamental Iaws of their religion, be~ lief in God and the prophet, prayer, alms-giving, fasting, and pilgrimage to Meeea, &c.* Henee also the superstitions of chiromaney, whieh divides the hand under various influences of the planets, while the unity of God (La Allak illa Allak, " there is no God but God,) expressed their ehief prineiple. The palace of Charles V. planned by Alphonso Bcrruguete, is the íirst building within the walls; it reeords the false promise of Charles V. of liberty of eonscienee to the Moors, for whieh he reeeived one thousand six hundred dueats towards its build-

* The young and hand some fcmale Spaniard still screens her beauty, and preserves tliat of her children from the fascinatioa of a snpposed witch's eyes, by shutling her hand and passing her thumb in the forni of a cross over the fore and middle fingers. WILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 191

Near the house of the receiver (contador), at a *°°* ,^ small distance. is an antient elm on which the ^T^^ Mahomctan chicfs gave audience after thcir man- gJJfSGnuuMi» n__ and UJ* Mr*< The first court of the Moorish palace Alhambra, called Mesuar, now L03 Array Janes, is paved with great squares of white marble, broken and covered with crass and moss. In the middle is a curious long and narrow basin, at the extremity of which are four gothic columns supporting a gallery. The highest and richest tower of the Alhambra is that of Comare, probably named after the archi- tect or archítecture. The great hall is curious from its height, arched roof, ornaments, cabinets, and ínscriptions. Its door is a fine arch, with niches on each side, in which the sandals were Icft. The great Abu Nazar* is here recorded, who " with a tcrrible look, joined with greatness of mind and benevolcnce," caused the Moorish conquest of Spain. Near the hall of Cornares is a caged apartment, the prison of the last queen of Granada, on a charge ofincontinence; which, being contested between two noble famihes, ended in facilitating by their

• The same with Miraraolin, Jacob, Almanzor ; Nazar, likc Augustus, beiog a name of dignity. 192 CAMPAIGNS IN SP A IN AND PORTUGAL.

divisions the fali of Granada into the hands of Fer-

Korth-cast dinand.* progre»!. Ciiyof Granada The court of the lions, ornamented with sixty Lion's Court, elegant columns of an architecture, not unaptly callcd by Pcyron the Arabian order, is admirable. Paved with white marble, at the extremities are two fine Mosaic cupolas, painted in gold and azure, and supported by gronps of columns, Here are portraits of Moorish kings: a cross marks where the first mass was sung here on the capture of Gra- nada. Hall of lhe The court is surrounded by basins of white mar- Abenctrri^e». ble. In the same court are the halls of the two sisters, (las dos hermanas,) of the Abencerrages, and another. The second hall looks into the formerly exquisite gardens of Lindaraxa. The viçar of the Alhambra is lodged in a kind of fortress, sacred to ali the visions of superstition. H.dl oflhc liutlis. The hall of the baths foi lo ws, preceded by a cor- ridor; and next thatof the nympbs, from two beautiful female figures of white marble, supposed to be the work of an Arabian ai tist.f

* The whole story, full of romantic eloquence, is in Peyron, Essai sur 1'Espagnc.

t These have been since locked up by tfie archbishop, with a moral vàew, perhaps arising from the fbllovving English verses. 1ÍILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 193

The convent ,of Franciscans ncar the palace of

Charles V. was built at the expense ot* some noble ^^-east Moorish ruins. Their church was a mosque. E^'ofG«nad»

From the Alhambra is entered, by a lone gate, the CenctaW. Generatif, (house of lovc, of dance, and pleasurc,) built by Ornar, who here gave himself up to the charms of music. It is the most dclightful situation in Granada, built on a hill from which waters fali on every side, and collect in the courts and gar- densinto beautiful cascades. The venerable gardens form an amphitheatre, and in them are two cy- presses still named after the Moorish queen. The court of the pond-has árcades with good ^d.°tÚ* inscriptions. written on the wall by two of our eounlrymen, In 1775, expressivo of lheir adrairation of ihis delightful palace; the last line seems however somevvhat deranged.

O most indulgent prophet to mankínd, If such on earlh ihy paradisc \ve fínd, What mttst in heaven ihy promis'd raptures prove, \Vhere black-eyed Houris brealhe eternal love! Thy faith, thy doctrine, sare wcre mosl divine, And though mueh water, yet a little wine. tf is regum huc r nirais infelicium; dcliciis rna;strum vale dix»- runt. T. G. H. S. Anglr. Kal. Jan. 1775, diepro capta urbe Granata triumphalis» VOL. I. o 104 CAMPAIGXS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. Tliis beautiful retreat is devoted to a eloister of CU XV. II. \^0~y~*~> Capucliins. ISorth-Ciut . . • progrcss. xiie Moors had academies and a university ra VityefUraiuaa Granada. They Iiad some excellent painters and seulptors, but they delighted in their own poetieal theology, and tbe romantic mathematics of former days, whieh, under the class of astrology, produced good physicians and botanists. WountMcred From the sublimity of Moorish palaees, turn to lo tlic Cbristians ^ * the sacred mount of the Cbristian dead, where repose the first niartyrs of Spain; a fine road leads toit by the side of high mountains, eovered vvith houses, fountains, and verdure, at the foot of whieh runs the Darro. Here have been found the bodies of severa! saints in a ealcined mass, including Ceeil, Menton, and Cesiphon; and also severa! Arabic manuscripts. Seven disciples of St. James were burned in grottos, now converted into the cbapels of the sacred furnaces. NuestpiScntra The church of our Lady of Sorro\v3 (Nucstra

Senoi-a de la Angustias)} formerly a sim pie hermitage, is famous for its admirable altar and immense riches. Near it, in a pleasant walk on the banks of the Genil, long stood the antient church where mass was first sung in th is part. In the Field of Martyrs the bare-footed Carmelites have a good eonvent. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 195

The old wine of the Carthusians scems to render ali record of thcír superb mansion in the suburbs Nort!l. unnecessary. CéIJUíGIíMAI The great captain Gonsalves fonnded a magnificent convent herc, possessed by the monks of St. Jerome.

A league from Granada are the celebrated baths BaU»ofAiham» at Alhama3 highly beneficiai in diseases proceeding from coid hnniours. The Rio Frio, so called froni the coldness of its waters, also rises among the hills of Albânia. Proceeding on ♦the road to Carthagena, at íive leagues, oceurs the villagc of Pcllena, built ou the Pdicna, sides of the hills, on a rough and dirtyroad; and a league farther is Guadix (the antient Acei, or Guad!í- Colónia Accitana), an episcopal see, whose bisliop is suffragan to Se vi 11c, though at so great distance. Alphonso the Wise took it from the Moors in 1252, but lost it again till the days of Ferdinand. It is the coldcst spot in Granada, and therefore without orange or olive trees. The Venta deGuer is in a deep and damp hol- Venta de Cucr. low on the road to Baza, which passes th rough a mountainous and uneultivated country, enlivened only by forests of green oak and numerous berds of swine. Ilence the proverb licre, " no good soup without lard, nor good sermon without Saint o 2 196 CA3IPA1GXS IN' SPAiN AXD PORTUGAL.

Augustin." (No hai olla sin tocbio, ni scrmon sin Auvusthio.) IMUBMM. J3ava tiJe j}astj 0f Antoninus, lies at the foot of a high mountain, covered with snow in winter. It was famous ainong the Moors, of whose construction are the old houses, bricks, or hard ce- ment. Nine old cannon used by Ferdínand in taking ,thisciíy support the front of the market-house, with a datcd inscription to that eíFect on one of th em. The road continues, in the bosom of the moun- Cuii«rdc Baya tains, to Culler de Baya, a village built at the foot of one of them; the roads are better, but the couniry uncultivated. The antíent Moorish dens on the sides of the mountains continue the habitation of the modem residents. The lively and learned Frendi writer, Peyron, remarks that the inn is kept by a Frenchtnan, " who does liis utniost not to viola te the custo m of the country !" In the vicinity, one of the remains of feudal power, is a gallows omamented by a knife. More than a thousand arrobas of hemp, the piincipal growth, are here collected in a year. Tlie mode in which the king receives his share, in addition to the tythes of the clergy, is singular. Two or three privileged houses, (casas ejusadas,) JirLlTAHY VTEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 197 BOOK I. are allotted in cvery village or district, according C!I*I'. II. to its cxtcnt, and gcnerally tlie richcst, who pay ^HZ^A*' tlic tenth to the king, and may be cliangcd »"***• evcry year, whitlier thc crop has been most abundant. Tlirough the poor village of Chirivcl, we pass ciiirivei. ovcr sands to Velez cl Rn bio, a considerable one, vd» ei ituMo, which, amidst high mountains long covercd with snow, and the rcmains of Moorish fortifications, may bc called tlic northcrn fro n ti eis of Granada. . It is time hcrc to look back 011 this anticnt kingdom, and healthyand tcmperate modern pro- vence, whose mountains, evcry whcrc intcrsecting jt, form many delightful vai lies, and vhere numerous and cxcellcnt springs cvery whcre assist naturc in covering thcm with verdure. As the baths of Alhama dissipa te cold humoúrs, those of Alicun on thc contrary are efficaeious in discases procceding from sharp humours of the blood. TIJC waters of thc Darro form, according to the nativcs, and also from learncd anticnts, the salutary bath of slieep. Fine transparent jaspcrs, black, grecn, and red, marblc, granite, and amethysts, and other precious stones, are obtaíncd here. The mountains called Alpuxarás are so lofty that thecoast of Barba ry and thecities of Tangicr 198 CAB1PAICXS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

and Ceuta may be seen from them; they are about

North-t'a»t seventeen leagues in length, from Velez Málaga to progrcw. Almeria, and eleven in breadth; abounding with fruit-trecs of great beautyand size. Tbe mountaineers seein to liave preserved the active and industrious spirit of their ancestors.

KoadtoLum. Quitting Granada, the road to Lumbreras lies for five leagues through a deep ravine (rumbla), formed by the mountain-torrent, in which ai! the charms of wliat the poet calls " congeníal horror" may be enjoyed; itimproves, however, to Lorca, whosc neighbouihood, at the same time, is not nuich aggrandized by the gypsies, (gtianos,) who lierd there together in colleetive poverty, and forni the frequent host of your iniserable hulting place (posado). Ilerc the first room is often for asses and mules, through which is the way to the kitchen, something of the nature of the Seottish highland hut or Irish cabin, but in form generally round or square, with the cieling terminating in a point, at which is the usual opening for the smoke. Around the fire is a stone seat, the receptaele of ali visitors of whatever çondition by day, and the fa~ mily bed at night! The firc is composed of whatever is next to be had. Trying-pans and oil are ready for the food brought by the traveller, who it may be supposed may make other shífts to eook it íf 3IILITARY VIEW OF THE PENMXSULA. *99 he please, and like not to see rice, saffron, long CIIAP. „/ pepper, and stock-fish, boiling together. And who ^ZhZ^ would not relish the stcak from live embers, pro8rc,B- while the blind musician in a corner thrums his guittar, and rcckless boys and girls, ncarly naked, enliven the scene around him with ali the vivacity of youth? A homely bed is furnished in an adjoining space, on which, though not voluptuousty, the wearymay find repose. Travcllcr or innkeepcr is compellcd to resort for every necessary of life to the person privileged to sell it, a source of revenue to the lords of tlie soil. Lorca, (tlie antient Elisoraca of Antoninus,) is Lorca, sixleaírues from thesea. The Guadalentin washes its walls and separates it froin its suburb. Its Moorish splendour is lost among its labouring inhabitants, who, liowever, gather annually two hundred thousand quintais of barilla, on each of which the king lias laid a duty of onc ducar, ts (2í. 3j<£). * small cathedral lias nothing reniark- able. It is on the higbest groiind. Tlie roads are now better. The considerable village of Totana, belonging to tlie knights of St. T*1»"1»- Ja£o, is rich in barilla. From Fuente de Alomo racntcdeAiomo falling into decay the roads are narrow and strong, hilly and inaccessible. They open, however, into a beautiful country 2Ô0 CAMPAIGXS IX SP AIX A XI) PORTUGAL.

on theapproaeh to Carthagena, fui] of rural activity. Rorlli-east progre»s. Caxtlmgcna. Carthagena, remlered by Asdrúbal the rival of antient Carthage, wbenee it derives its nanie, is of bigh celebrity in a military view, from the importancc with whicb its conquest under thegovernment of Mago, its last chief, by Publius Scipio and Caius Lelius, bas ahvays becn considered. In riches it was next to Home; full of resources, with a powerful foree and cxtensive armament.— Aceording to Livy, wben Scipio took it, he earried away with him sixty-four military banners, two bundred andseventy-six goldeneups, besides otbers of si 1 ver, and eighteen thousand threc bundred jnarks of sijver, forty thousand measures of wheat, and a bundred and sixty thousand measures of oats. The eity itself was the least thing gaíned by the Itomans. Jlere too it was, in tbis profusiou of power, tliat Scipio set the great example of temperance and gc- ncroííity so worthy of imitation in every age, particularly as related by Frontinus.* AVhoii among otber captives there was brought to him a uiarnageable girl, of sueh an exquisite forni, so lovely that ali eyes were fixed upon her, he ordcred that shc sbould rcceive the liighest earc;

* Book II. chap. xi. 197. • MILITARA' VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 201 and,as she had been namcd as thc bride of Allucíus, B00K r* ' cu Aí. ir. - V / restorcd her to him: in adílition, thc gold wliich %V T "^ her parente had sent to redeem her from captivity P^>B«*«. was given by Scipío as a marriage-prcsent These instanoes of magnificence, adds Frontinus, induccd the whole nation to submit to tlie imperial Roman people.* Carthagena was to the Romans a sort of índia, and near it are still silver-mines. The village of Los Alumbres has rich lead-mines, Cuevasde Por- LosAiwnWei, man is rich in Amcthysts, &c. and Helliti has sulphur. The circumjaccnt country was called Campo c«mpoSp*rttrw Spartario; it would appear, simply from its native broom (Spartum). Cartliagena was totally destroyed in the Gothic wars of Spain, severa! aritique inscribed stones have been found in the ruins, generally alludíng to peace, plenty, and commerce. The city is defended by a mountain formed by threc hills. In the middle of the city, on a high hfll, is a fort, now almost in ruins, antiently called Mercurius Theutates, from a temple of that deity on the spot.

* It may bepermltted just to menlion, from tlie same autfioríty, that Alexander would not trust himself with looking on a similar object. Ib. 198. 202 CAMPAIG2ÍS TN 5PAIN AND P0RTU0AL.

The harbour, says Peyron, is spacious, and so fcorth-cast deep tliat ships may moor close to the land. It is cSínt, a kasin hollowcd by nature, which seems to have sheltered it from tlie winds by sevcral hills placecl round it at equal distances, so that froni tlie mole nothing but the entrance of tlie harbour and the basin are to be seen. No port in the world cari be compared to this forsafety and regularity. Vir- gil, wishing to givc at the landing of iEneas m Italy the deseription of a ]>ort as perfeet as art and naturc could niake it, seems to have taken for his model the harbour of Carthagena:

Esl in secessu longo locus: insula porlum, &c.

The entrance is defended by two redoubts, and the mole by twelve pieces of cannon. The arsenal is iarge, and provided with every thing for the building and fitting out a ship with such readiness, that one of the line may be got ready for sea in three days. The inagntrieent basins with which the stocks communicate are easily íilled with water, and the vessel glides majesti- cally and with fácility into tlie sea. Each ship has its store-house, as in some of the best English dock-yards. Numerous workmen, Moors, and galley-slaves, are in the arsenal, who are regu- MILITAR?" VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 203

Jarly divided into companies, and distributed in the docks. magazines, rope-yards, and forces. progrcw. Leaving Carthagena for Murcia, the roads ge- Muni*, nerally may rather be described as ravines formed by the currents of the waters, unenlivened by any character requiring description. Murcia, honourable from its undoubted antiquity, its name,* and the obsequies of the father and uncle of Scipio, in whose games not slaves but ehanpions combated, is situated on a plain. twenty-five leagues in length from east to west, and a league and a half in breadtb, The Segura runs by its side, and is adorned by a fine stone bridge and a magnificent quay. The city is surrounded by good public walks, of which Maleçon is the principal, When the Moors besieged Murcia, the brave inhabitants went out to meet them, and a battle ensued, so bloody as to dehominate the plain on which it was fought Sa?igonera, where the greater part of the Murcians fel!. The governor imme-

* This derivation solicits notice: It is from the Romans, who, delighted with the river and the myrtle-banks which here flourish in grcat beauty, dedicated the soil to Venas Myrtia, supposed to have cbarming presídence over myrtles, fountains, and such iweet appendages of the haunts oflove. £04 CAMPAJGXS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. diatelv in the true spirit of antient stratagem, or-

North-ptut dered ali the women to be clad in arniour and progress, A} ureia. drawn up 011 the ramparr, «vhilst lie went to the Moorish general to capitulatc, who, coneciving from this demonstration the city to be still full of soldiersj granted very aclvantagcous terms. The cathedral, with many beauties of Corintliian architecture and Arabian sculpturc, and ihirty- two statues large as life, is celebratcd for the tomb of Alphonso the Wisc, whn bequeathcd his heart to Murcia, for a kind reception given liim whcn in adver&iry. The altar and its steps are of massive silver. The town is square, and largcr than thatof Sevilie, which it imitates. Ualfway up is a sanctuary. The beautiful chapei of the Marquis de los Velez is more antient and higher than the cathcdral, and Loth within and without exhibits a fine Gothic taste. Here are six parish-churches endowcd by Al- phonso, ten convents of monks, and six nunneries. The Cordelicrs have good portraits of eminent men, and a library. The Moorish parísh is oceupied by the Dominicans. From Carthagena to the port of Ilici are tlie remains of a Roman road. Archcna. The baths of Archena, four 1 cagues westvvard • Ml LIT AtiY VIEW Ofr THE PEXINSULA. " £05 from Madrid, named from that v-illaçe, have their B00K r- sourcc in a rock commanded by lofty mountains, ^-^^w' and fali into a eanal formim* thrce baths. thirtyJ P™?^- ° Murcia. paees from the Segura, for nuns, women, and the poor. The first is within twelve feet of the source, and unbearably hot til! beaten about for some time. The water is blueish, lieavy, and bad tasted. The froth or scum takes íire like brandy or sulphur. Those who drink the waters require much exer- eise. Tliey are useful in infirmities from hu- mouis, but prejudicial in the venereal disease. They produee violent transpiration. There are small huts near the baths, but their owners make little provision. The city of Almaearron, six leagues from Cartha- Aimacanon. gena eastward, is a mere fortress on the sea-eoast, near which are great quantities of alum; Mula, in Mula. a fertile plain; Cacavaça, famous for a eross Cacavaç». supposed to cure diseases; Lorgui, Calaspara, Lorgui. and Cieza, (the antient Carteia^,) conclude the òS?" notice of Murcia. Besides the Segura, the Guadalentin, rising in Granada, waters Murcia, and falis into the Medi- terranean near Almaearron» Murcia contains 355,500 mulberry-trees, pro- ducíng annually 40,000 ounees of grain of the silk-worm, from wliich result £50,000 pounds of silk. 206 CAMPATONS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Murcia furnishes Castile, England, and France,

North-east with oranges, lemons, figs, &c. Srogresa. I ureia. Yct the country from its environs to Origuela has a desert appearance. Origuela. Origuela is antient, and surrounded by higli mountains: its vicinity is so fertile, that, according to the proverb, whether it rains or not therc is always corn in Origuela, (lueva o ne lueva trieo en Origuela). It lias a university. The college, built on a high mountain, has a magnificent prospect and is curious. The cathedral is daik, small, and in a badstate. This city practised the stratagem of Murcia. At four leagues distance, and one from the sea, Elche. is Elche, the antient Ilici, a very famous colony, of which the only remains are ruins and the port. The fertility and mildncss of this spot seem to have endeared it to the Arabs. Here seems happily to have Iived their historian and biogra- pher Mahomed Ben Abdahhaman, "among just judges and pleasing poets." AJcudia. Alcudia, in the environs, was anticntly more considerable. An inscription on a jasper column carried thence is preserved in the conventof Nu- estra Senora de la Misericórdia.*

* AUGUSTO DIV1. F. DECIUS CELER DEDICAV1T. MILITARY YIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 207

Between Elchc and Alicant are the remains of B^PK.T- Moorish covered cisterns, those cool and elegant ^^^ reservoirs of water which form one of the salutary ÇJU^* instruments of thcir religion that well merits pre- serva tíon. Groves of palnvtrees, however, now present their delightful though nobly shnple shade, and ali the treasures of Egypt suddenly appear, the goklen and tnfted grape and the date suspended by cach other; silvery broòks bubbling through green vallies, and a clear and brilliant sky. These charms lessen and assume rather a nielan» AIíCU*. • choly aspeet as Alicant approaches. The inscriptions and coins discovered in the vi- cínity of Alicant, however, prove it to haveexisted before and at the time of the Roman emperors. The bay, beginning at Cape St. Martin (or Alte- mus) and terminating at Cape Paios, was the fa- mOUsGuIfofllici. , Gulfeflfici. The inhabitants, strengthening themselves against the piratíc Moors, with the ordinary simplicity of ali social institutions, collectcd first the merchants of Carthagena and then others. It is now well built and peopled; sheltcred on the east by Cape de la Iluerta, and to the west by Cape St. Paul and the island of Tabarca: vessels enter and go out with any wind, and anchor about a mile from the mole in six, seven, eight, and ten, fathoms of water. 208 CÀMTAIGNS IN- SPAIN AND PORTUOAL.

The commerce is in barilla, antimony, alum, ani-

Nortlvcabt sced, cummin, and tent-wine (vino tinto). progrcw. Aticaut. Four leagues from the city is a kind of rcservoir El Puutano. between two mountainscalled El Pântano, in which, the water, falling from thehills, iscollected sufficient in want of rain to serve for a year. The walls are two hundred feet high, and at the base upwards of forty feet thick. Is not one tempted again to in- quire, why are the Spaniards an inâolent people? Altetw Between Altcn, by the sea-side, rich in silk, wine, flax, and honey, and the cityofDenia, is the promontory of Cape St. Martin. The latter city, the observatory of Sertorius, still

thence called Atalaya de Sertório, has a commodi- t ous harbour, and a fertile soil, abounding in com, wine, and almonds. Çontentaina. In the neighbourhood of the village Contcn- taina the mountains are famous for rarc and me- dicinal plants: iron-mines. have been found at Alcoj. Alcoy, a handsome small town ôn the river. of that ,name,* where is also the famous 'fountain Barchel fountain. Barchel, supposed tó be abumlaut and dry alter- na tely for fourteen yèa*rs. . Eiw. Proceeding on, the little village of Biar, the *Assi- arium of the Romans, oceurs; famous for excellent honey whiie as snow. From Biar, thròughVíllena, a small town of New Mogente. Castile, we arrive at"Mogente,7on whose bánks

■.■*** MILÍTARY \*IEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 209 DOOK I. spontaneously blows the laurel-rose, so carefully CHAP. II. cultivated even in France; and proceeding to St. ^ Felippe, the Barranjo de Mogente is crossed twelve times in less than two hours. San Felippe, (Setabis with the Romans, with s«oF«itppc the Moors Xaliva,) wasdestroyed in revolt agaínst Philip V. In the castle was imprisoncd the dukc of Calábria. The road is good by the mountain síde or over hrooks to Alciu, (island,) a considerable town well A,c!ft- sítuated, and almost an island, heingonly approached by a stone bridge over the Xucar, which nearly surrounds it. The country produces rice, fruits, and grain, and even the sugar-cane. Two leagues to Algemisi, the last town on this road, are pteasant; Aigcmiâ. it produces the aloé of America, from which cordage Í3 made; the façade of the church is in good tas te, the great altar in fine architecture, and the inside well embellished. The Catalans spin the pita, as they call it, so finely that the thread is used in making blonde. In the church, besides its good architecture, there are paintings by Ribalta.

Cheerfulness enters at the doors and windows Valensii. of Valência, says the Spanish historian, Mariana; whether or not this be true, the provínce is onc of the most beautíful portions of Spaia. YOL. I. P 210 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Industry is not crampcd here by royal imposts as in the provinccs of Castile, but the people are Vakncia. subject to the equivalent, a propcrty-tax, and tó heavy feudal serviccs. The annals and histories of Valência are nume- rou s, and so indced are the books which have been published in that capital. Fifty paper-mills are scattered through the province. It is said to have been taken and fortified by Scipio, destroyed by Poinpey, and rebuilt by Scr- torius; taken from the Romans by the Goths, and from th em by the Moors, wlio lost it to the famous Cid Rui-Diaz de Vivar, who gave to it bis appellation, retaken by the Moors, and finally lost to the king Don Jayme, enlarged and embellished by Pedro IV. of Arragon. It is about half a league in circuinference;. the walls are ornamental rather than for defenee. Its streets have the Moorish characteristic of being narrou*, crooked, and unpaved. Shnt up with their women, these people eonsidered their. streets only as necessary paths, and atteuded alone to the interior embellishmcnt of their houses. Nor had they amid their luxuries that of carriages. There are not many ediíices of taste, norehurches remarkable for architecture. . It is ncvertheless an agreeable capital, with a good police. .-Idlenessand indigenee are banished- •HILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 211 from it: tliirty thousand of tlie inhabitants were B00K *• latteriy employed in silk-weaving, exclusive of /■ those oceupied in spinning, windiug, and dying, the silk, and in the manufacture and care of near eight thousand looms, &c. These artizans being exempted by government from tlie ballot for tbe quintas, tbree thousand were exempted in Va- lência. * * It also supplies the royal arsenais with tbe hemp of the proviuce, and bas itself manufactures of woollen cloths and canilets. The exportation of wines and brandies are very extensive. Valência also supplies ali Spain, ex» cept the south of Andalusía, with rice, wbich is preferred to that of Carolina. Barilla in its four different forms is also manufactured and exported in large quantities, and oil, by no mcans the hest owing to the exclusive privilege of inills. From their eartb they make ornamental tiles of delft ware; and mats and cordage made of tbe esparto, as well as tbread from the parasitical alve. Wcol also is exported from the vicinity of Gandia, with dried fruits, aniseed, and cochíneal, raised in the country; with abundant crops of oranges, lemons, raisins, and figs. Such is the plenty and actiyity of Valência. As a commercial city the first object is its ex- P2 21S! CAMPAIGKS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

change, which is spacious. There is however also a publíc library belonging to the archbishop, pos- Valência. sessinç statues and busts. A new theatre lias been built by Fontaine, not however much cncouraged. It is too near the Street, and the drama not sufficiently refíned. The Real, where the captai n-general resides, h antient, extensive, and lias a fine position. The Guadalavicra is crossed by five bridges between the cíty and suburbs, but is Tedueed by the draughts of irriga tio n, which is here conducted under an excellent system of regulations, and from which wonders are derived.* The profusion of water, however, being by some supposed to weaken lhe uature of plants, piodueed the following {singular proverb:

En Valência la carne es hicrba; la Iiierba, aqua; Lcs hombrci, mugeres; y las mugeres, nada. ,

In Valentia fle-sh h grass; grass, water; The men, women; and the women, nothing.

The Alanude, Monte Olivete, and the road to Gras, a small village on the sea-shore about half a «» • The adoptíón of which has been mach urged in Britain by many celebratcd agriculturists and projectors, and particularly by 1 tíjc work intiíulcd National Irrigation, 8cc. * - MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 213 league from thc city, are fine walks of Valência, ncar the banks of the Guadalaviara. \3£\C A ncw port has lung bccn forming, of hígh necessity to the coast The environs of Valência claim in a minor dcgree tlic attention we have already given to the metropolis of Spain. Benimatnct, a village half a league from Valência, Eewmaniet, with its villas and gardens, have bccn said,—by no oriental cntlmsiast but a Swedish ambassadòr,— to cut one off from thc rest of his fellow-creatures, where he hecomes involved in the beauties of nature, and lost in the most delicious draughts of éxistence. '• Burgasot, a village a league from Valência, on Burgawt. an. estate belonging to Corpus Christi, deserves mention from the remains of Roman subterraneous granaries, called by the writers who treat of them, Pliny, Suidas, &c. Silos or Siros, and by the modem Valencians Siches de San Roque.* The ex- cavations are from twenty-five to thirty-five feet deep, in the form of prodigious jars, and lined with free-stone.f

• Hcre is also, it may be observed, the epilaph, by a priest, of 1 Francis 1'Advcnant, the most famous actress of Spain, who it áppears sacríficc her • life to her excesses, at lhe carly age of» twenty-two. ...

k f Bourgoing gives them to thc Moors. 214 CAMPA1GNS IN SPAIN AND POKTUOAL.

The beautiful Franciscan convent of San Miguel

Valência. de los Itcycs, tbe three Cartliusian monasteries so delightfully situated, particularly that of Porta Cclí, four leagues froni Valência, are other objects not to be neglected by the man of taste or sensibility. At two leagues distance, betwcen two moderate Ly the two hundred inhabitants, who however are supposed to qualify their merit by liaving erected at great expense a tower to the same church, useless from the depth of the bottom in which it is situated. Cayaíei. Rising for a league, Cavales, the ice-house of Va* lencia, is on the way to the mountains, of which L» VaAJMa. La Vallida overtops Valência, a vast extent of counr trv. and of the sea. A delightful yalley, through which the Canalen rolls its waters, occasionally graced with pines, ver? «Jure, aromatic plants, and even the vine, is on the JIILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 215

way to Bexis (the anticnt Bergis), cliiefoft.be places belonging to the order of Calatrava. It is consi- v^SC derable, surrounded by high mountains, is watered Bei"- by the Toro, funiishing exeellenttrout, and falling into the sea ncar Morviedro. Two leagues beyond, on the Palencia, is Vivei, vivei, (supposed to be the Vivarium and Bel Sinumof antient Celtibenaj) containing inscriptions that mark the residence of M. Portius Cato, so celebrated in the anticnt warlike liistory of Spain; and also Agrí- cola, Domitian, Emilius, and tbefamily of Cornélia. It is possessed by tbree hundred rustics, çultivating fertile lands. Sbady groves and gardens mark the road of half a league thence to Xerica, pregnant witli marks of Xerica» unsettled activity, alsoon the banks of the Palencia» ât the foot of a mountain, on wbich are theremains of a strong castle. Wine, wheat, Indian corn, but particularly pasturage, form the produce around tliis spot. Two leagues hence is Segorbia, not improbably Scgorbia. the antient Segobriea, the capital of Celtiberia. It is in a mild country, has perbaps six thousand inhabitants, and is surrounded by excellcnt garden^ ing. The jesuits had a college bere, still a school.— The tomb of Peter Miralles, an orplian, and founder of a provision for orphans, is shewn; as also the 216 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. .

produetive fountain of excellent water, yet of a pe- trifying quality. Valei At two leagues distance, ia a clustre of hills, is Chapei of our the solitary chapei of our L*dy of the Holy Grotto, Lady of tho Holy Grotto. (Nuestro Senora de la Cueva Santa,) the festival of which is her hirth-day, Septembertheeighth, when a^numerous pilgrimagc is performed. The priests live in a large house near it, where convenient provision is made for travellcrs, ou the terms of an inn. Toires Torres. Torres Torres sueceeds, a small town, preserving- its supposed antient hatred to Saguntum, arising out of disputes respecting the water, which in dry scasons serves the territoiy. Also, within a circle of hills, the valleys of AU mencra, Benccalif, Faura, Canct, and Beuediten. Thence we proceed to Morviedro, the antient Saguntum. Valência, however, must not he quitted without a slight review. It had antiently an honourable population; the Celtiberii, the Turditani, the Lusoni, &c. It now contains seven principal cities, sixty-four great towns, and upwards of a thousand villages. It has four sea-ports. The soil is fertile though mountainous. Here arç mines of sinapica, iron, and alum ; quarries of marble, jasper, plaster, lápis çalaminaris, and potters clay, ilILITARY VIEW OP THE PENÍNSULA. 217

It lias produced annually near a million weight of silk, a hundred thousand arrobas of hemp, a ^J hundred and thirty thousand arrobas of oil, and three million cântaros of wine. Its commerce has thus been estimated at ,£600,000.

• Morviedro. the famous Sasnintum, now demands Morviedro. ° Saguntomt no common consideration. Moorisb castles on heights, wbich command the town and communicate with each other by subterraneous passages, may be seen at the distance of two leagues. ; The antient station, Saguntum, reached only half way up these hills, and stood chiefly in the plain towards the sea, since Livy statcs that it was only' a thousand paces from it, and Morviedro is a long ' ^ league from the Mediterranean. >-* ' This is the city destroyed by Hannibal; a victim to its fidelity to the Romans. It possessed, according to Livy, immense riches, from its'commerce, ' just laws, and excellent police; and it determined that they should not hc subjected to a conqueror. Afteraresistance of eight months, not receiving the suecours they expected from their allics, they were compelled to feed on their children, and afterwards to sacrifice thcmsclvcs: this they did by setting fire to an immense pile of wood; and, when nothing élse would sufíice, no power nor stratagem whatever 218 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGA!» avail in their behalf, in the justest cause in which man cari sufTer, they precipitated themselves, their Valência. Morviedro. women, thosc in their servitude, and their treasure, Saguutum. into the flamcs! So that Hannibal, that consum- iria te general, derived by the victory, if so itcould bc called, only a heap of ruins. The Romans rehuilt Saguntum, but imperfectly; they madc it however onc of their nmniclpia, and one of the most flourishing towns they possessed out of Italy. Of this the city-gates, doors of churches and inns, and even of the house-walls, bear evidenee in Roman inscriptions, as reeorded by the modem song of Argensola.

Con Marmoles de noblci inscriptiones, Theatro un tiempo y aras en Saguntho, Fabrican hoy tabernas y mesones.

Noble inscriptions,—wiíh whosc breathing marble, From theatres, even altar;,ofSaguntum, Built and inscribed are the humblest inns.

The noblest monuments are the castle and theatre, to which the English traveller, Townsend, has the merit of having chieíly called attention. The ruins of the former oecupy a full quarter of a league. Most of the modern edifices appeaf to have been constmcted by the Moors, with the materiais left by the Romans, and without much JflLlTARY V1EW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 219 choice, for in one of their fnrtresses a statue of ®^OK L whitc marble is placed upside down. The works ^-'"■y"^'. of the lattcr havc disappeared. MonrWm. The castlc covers ahnost the whole top of the mountain on which it is situated: it is of an irregular form with five divisions, in the middle remains a magnificent cistcni two hundred fect long, and tlinugh greatly fiiled up still eighteen feet deep. Twenty-one pillars supportcd the roof, of a Compnsition rendered by time harder than stone. A humble hermitage now occupies the plat- form. At a^small distance, towards the principal gate leading to the theatrc, are the remams of a temple, formerly supported by numerous pillars, eight feet distant. This part is surrounded with Moorish walls and towers, forming the squarc called Saluquian. Here as well as in other parts is one reminded by jnscriptions of JEmilius, Fabius, Acilius, the Cal- phumii, and other distinguished Roman families; of whosc rcmains man has more than assisted time in the destruction. The theatre or circus of Saguntum, (since occupied by orchards, alleys of mulberry-trees, and rope-makers), extended to a small river, the bed of which only remains, and was the chord of the segment forrned by the circus. When sea-fights 220 CAMPAIGN*S IN SPAIN AXD PORTUGA t.

were represented (Naumachid) this bed was filled from canais in tbe viciníty, which remain. Valpiicis. Morviedro. Saguntum. It is a wondeiful memorial of tlic exeellent economy of the Romans in their public amusements. Fired witb tbe contemplation of antient splen- donr, several public officers, among wliom werethe captain-general Urbina, have attempted tbe restoration of this theatre ; and Francisco Bama- honda, a poet of Valência, composed a tragedy for exhibition on that noble subject the siege of Sagnntum, so dear to honour and freedom. But these efForts are flceting.*

* The space of a note cannot be refused Itere, to a sketch of this theatre, from the per» of an elegant antiquary, Don Emanuel Marti, dean of Alicant, which with a few of the imeriptions may assist the soldier desirous of impressíng hímself by such images with an example of the Roínan spirit for objects of greatness and utility. " Though the theatre is in a valley, ils situation, equatly agreeable and healthy, is surficiently elevated to command a view of the sea aud a part of the adjacent country; the environs aro rural and watered by a little ríver. A niountaín, by which it is commanded, and, if I may so speak, surrounded, sbelters it from the south and west winds; in a word, the situation is sueh as Vitruvius particular!y recommends as the most healthy ; lh

Parts oftliat singular milítary antiquity, a bat- tering rani, ate prcscrved at Morvicdro. - yJ!Q£" Morviedro. SaguuUiu. Cxperiment: oneofmy fríends, síandíng upoa the place where lhe stage formerly was, recitcd a.few verses from the Amphy- trion of Plautus: 1 was io the most elevated part of the theatre and heard him very distmetly. These rocks may be sai d to have a voíce, aod one five times stronger thao that of a maa ; só rnuch eaergy does H receivefrom the cavkies made by art in th© mountaio. The seniicircle, which the people called the pcrimrtre, is about four huodred and twenty-five feet io ejrcumfereace j its hei

Valência. the antient Saguntum, it requires only to be ackled Morviedro. Saguntum. cording to the laws Roseta and Júlia, made for the regulation df the theatres, Uiere wcre fourtecn seats allotted for the knights, tovvards the seventh were two entrances, or cavhies, called Vo- mitória, and this seai was rather wíder than the others, in order that the spectators might gettotheir places wíth greater facility. The, hardness of the rock was undoubledly the reason why two entrances were not gíven to the places of the knights; but this defkiency was supplied by formíng on each síde of their benches a kind of staircase, the foot of wliich is in the centre of the pit. The Pracinciio, which the Greeks called Diazona, or gírdle, a kind of band, longer and wíder than that by which the other seats were bordered, is still visible upon the last benches allotted to the equestrian order; it served to distínguísh at first síghl the dííTerent orders of lhe state, patricians, knights, and plebians. It also prevented ali eommunication between them; the seats, or benches, the farthest from the orchestra, the most elevated, and twelve ín number, were called Summa Caxea; these were for the people ; who had diíTcrent doors to enter at, cither by inner arches cut in the rock, and which still exisf, or by a pórtico at the bottom of the theatre, which served two purposes; one of giving the people a placc of retreat in case of sudden raín or bad weather; the other of sheltering the seats from the fali of water or dirt. The pórtico contained sixteen doors, which maintaíned a current of air, by which the theatre was kept cool, and the air wíthin prevented from becoraing corrupt j seven staircases lermínated at these doors. On each side of the pórtico was a spaee of twenty-eight feefc, ^Hed up with four rows of seats, It is reasonable to suppose these MIUTARV VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 2S3 that Morviedro eontains less than four thousand ^^u!" inhabítants; the envírons are ferttle, produeing ^~f^>* Morviedro. SaguQlum. were for lictors, putlic criers, and othcr officers of the magístrate, that they miglit always be ready to receive his orders, and prevent or terminate the quarrels of the people ; a regulation observed in Athens, as the commentator of the Peace of Aristophancs has lufliciently proved: and what wilh me seems to givc more weight to the supposition is, that from these places there werc passages by secret staircases to the p ri sons, one of whieh is still remaiiiing, where are found lhe iron ring and chains by which the persons of offcnders werc secured, Several ranges of seats werc placed over the pórtico, but it is diflieult to say for what kind of persons they were intended; if I may be permítted ta conjecture, I should think it was from these the slaves, flower-girls, and men and women of ill fame, saw the performance; for, according to a law of Augustus, persons of this description were not permitted to be present at theatrical performances, except in the most elevated places. The stair- casc by which these depraved classes got to their places wa» supported by the mountain. There ate square modillions, eight feet from each other, ali round the exterior walls. The remains on each side of the theatre attest its antient mag- nificente. Several of the árcades still remain ; some half gono tp juin, others antire. These serve to support the covering of the stage; this roof, or eeiling, is cntirely destroyed, not so much as a trace of it is to be found. If we allow fourteen inches to each place, the theatre míght contam seven thousand four hundred and twenty-six persons, without reckoning the seats over the pórtico, or the places of the 224 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. BOOK h silk, wine»* oil, liemp, and com. The wholé CHAP. I coast from Morvicdro to the sea side is covered Valência, filorviedro. SaguiKum- senators in the orchestra; so that ít may be said, withoiit exag- gcration, to havecontained about nine tbousand spcetators. The stage was about twenty-one fcct long from the orchestra : nothing now remains of it cxccpl the base of that part which in our theatre is the place of the foot-lights: this was rather lower than the slage, as appears by the little wall by which they were separa tcd. The plan of a small semí-círcular space, ín which stood a curved wall, and which was called Vava Regia, on account of its magnificence and the ornaments which served to decorate it, is seen opposite to the centre of the orchestra. The Greeks, according to Pollux, called this little encloscd space Basikion, or the royal habitalion ; tliiskindof arch was piaced betwcen two doors of the sarae form, called Hospitalia, because they were the places for strangers who carne to see the performance. Some vesliges of that on the Ieíl side yet remain. Upon the pedi- rricuts of the doors were piaced difíereut paíntíngs suilable to tlie represcnlation, which were varied like scenic decorations; for a comedy there were public squares, streets, and houses; for a tragedy, pórticos, colonadcs, and theslatuesof heroes; for satire or farce, grottos, fauns, gardens, and other rural objects. The scenes and decorations rapidly changed, and with great facilily, according as the piece requircd. Some of the walls which served to support the pulleys and counterpoises, by which the machinery was lifted up, have not yet quite gone to ruin.

• The winc of the ncighbourlioodoí Morviedro is strong of good flavour, but chiefly made into brandy. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENINSUIA. 225 with vines, olives, and nmlberry-trees: to the left •is a chain of hills, through which lies only the ^ road to Barcelona.

The Bronteion was a place behind the stage, whence, with goat- skins filled with little pcbblcs and shaken in the air an imitatlon of thunder was prodnced. To these divisions of the theatre must be added the Cliuragia, which must have been spacious, for the disposition of the choruses, and keeping the dresses, masks, and dilTerent instruments proper to the stage. To preveni the waters from injuring the theatre, two walls were built, wilh a canal, so disposed as to contain and convey them to the precipices of themountain; and the raio which fell within the theatre ran to the centre of the orchestre, and thence under the foot-Jights, where it was received into a cistern which remains lo th is day, The time when the theatre was built and the names of the magistrates who presided at the building of it are unknown; but on that account it is no less a proof of the vast gcníus of the Roraans, who never in any of their works lost sight of posterity. In ali of them they knew how to join beauty of forra to extent, solídity, and elegance, and even in their pleasures were always grèat; whilst, in the present age, pnblic edifices resemble the slender and elegant decorations with which the hcads of women are ornamented, and will last but for a season. The place npon which the convent of the Trinitarians now stands was formerly the scite of a temple dedicated to Diana. A part of the materiais served to build the church, and the rest were sold to build San Miguel de los Reyes, near Valência. There are several sepulchral stones in the exterior walls and the cloisler, on which are the following inscriptions, in the usual capitais, besides sorae in Arabic and others in unintelligible cha- facters. VOL. I. Q 22(> CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIX AND POIITUGAL.

From Morviedro the road lies through prodí- gious plains, shaded with olive and pulm-trees,

Scrgiae M.F Peregrinae Theomnestvs. et Lais et didvme- liberíi,

Antoniae. L. F. Sergillae vegelvs libert. L. António L. F. Gal Nvmidae prefect fabrvm tribvno milit. ^ , leg. primae ítalicae L. Rvbrívs Polybivs Araico.

Sergiac M. F. Peregrinae L. Ivlivs activs et porcia mele E.

Antoniae L. F. Sergillae L. Terentivs Fraternus ad íini.

Th esc five inscriptions, very well preserved, are inserted in thewall on each side of the church-door of the Trinitarians.

The following are fouud in the castlc:

C. Licínio Q. F. Gal Campano Aedili II. Viro Flamini ex 1)1).

Avio Aerailio Pavli F. Pai Regilo XV VI sacris facíendi prefecto vrb. iuri dicund.

Quesiori Ti. Caesaris Av. Patrono Q. Fábio Cn. F. Gal Gemino Ponlif Salio DD. . ' C7V«!

Dis man Gerain. Myrines Ann XXX; L. Bacb Pardus omni bono de se mérito? fecit.

M Calpvrnio M, F. Gal

Manlia Cn. F. » (4 „ y

P. Baebio L. F. Gal Máximo. Ivliano aed. fiam popilía aviia

ex testamento c. popilii cvpiti patris M. Acflioj) "s \ M, fc .... fo procura. Caesarvm con ventvs

tarrachon. ; ^ t ,-,' MILITAR?" VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. ' 227 fertile vineyards, and scenesof the most enchant- B00K L ing fertility» . vV^^' * Valência. A league distant is Almenardo, a town agreeably Aimeoard©. situated on an eminence, with a convent of Domi- nicans. Froni it to Castellon de la Plana the coiin- Casteiion de u Plans. try is less pleasant though populous and enlivcned by industry. Nulis and Villa Real, two consider- víiieai

The foliowiug are near the great church: C. VoconloC. F. Gal. Plácido aed II. Viro II. Flaroiní. II. Qvestori saliorum magistro. Popiliae L. F. Rectinae an XVII. C Licinivs C. F. Gal Marínus Voconivs Romanvs Vxori. The wall adjoining to the city-gatc is covered with fragments wf inscriptionsj the following are entirc. , D. M. BAebiAcnice felix vxo dulcissim. Fabia Q. L. Hirvndo an XXX. V F O. Grattius Halys Sihi "E Grattiae Myrsim Vxori Ka- rissim An XXXXVII Sibi et Suis. Upon a Column of white marble, to the Icfl on chtering the city, wc read,

Dco Avreli Ano. The most curious of ali these inscriptions is that found by the side of the house-door of M. Jean Duelos. M. ACIL1VS L. F. Fontanvs Erípvit Nobeis Vndc Vicensvmvs Annva ingressvra Ivencm'Militiam Cvpide'Párcae Fallvntvr Fontanvin Qvea Rapvervnt Cvm Sit Perpelvo Fama Fvtra Viri.

Q o 228 CAMPAIGKS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

able towns, may be passed on the way, and a very

Valência. fine new bridge over a broad ri ver almost diy. At Castellon good roads and pleasantnesscease; a rugged declivity is descended to thc sea, which is kept in view for a league. Then folio ws a stecp and equally rugged defilc leading to the foot of the Oropesi» erninence on which stands the castle of Oropesa.— The country around the defile of Oropesa is dreary and deserted. The country is somewhat more smooth for a league and a half to the Venta de la Venta de la Siuieta. Sinieta. Here is some little cultivation, but the AicaiadeSibcrt way is rugged again to the poor town of Alcala de Sibert on the side of a hill, from which are approached the last sea-port towns of Valência. Bcnjcarlos. The city of Benicarlos is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, but famous forits wines, of which brandy is made for exportation. Here beginflat roofs and the Catalonian dialect. A long league from Beni-

Vinaroz. carlos is the port of Vinaroz, a large handsome town containing perhaps twelve hundred houscs, which receives a few coasting-vessels. A bridge divides Valência from Catalonia, õn both sides of which are some good roads, and for

San Carlos. three leagues to San Carlos, a modem settlement close to the sea, the chief place of the Alsaques, a kind of port formed by the mouth of thc Ebro.— They are, properly speaking, formed of a long nár- MILITAUY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 229 row neck of Iand, semicircular, arising out of a pro- *°?*t£ lougation of the right bank of the river. aSõnuT"' In San Carlos are some handsome uni forni bouses, and a good inn, kept by a na tive of Milan. The port bas been much improved, and a canal from Amposta formed to render the Ebro navigable to its mouth. A battery lias been raised ín front of San Carlos, within musket-shot of which ships may come. to anchor, The engincer is of Parma, named Nodin. The mountains which recede from the shore are covered with pines, shrubs, and fine verdure; and receive numerous flocks of sheep. There are severa] villages in tbis neighbourhood surrounded by rara par ts, which wcre formerly strong holds, burnt and pillaged in the war of the succession by General Las Torres, who spared from the sword none but women and cbildren. Uldecona, on the road from Benicarlos to Torto- uidccon*. sa, deservesmention for itslong street, with houses built on a colonade of granitc, and a respectable Gothic church, altogether wearing an air of antiquity ; and La Venta de nos Fraines, a rich domain Venta de no» Fraines. belonging to the fatners of La Merci, where very tolerable lodging may cheaply be had, and a charming road succeeds to Tortosa, which is entered by a long wooden bridge. Tortosa, however, on the left bank of the Ebro, Torto»». . -50 CAMPAIGNrS IN* SPAIN AND POÍITUGAL*,

must not be passcd without particular attention.—

Catalonia. It is four Icagues from the sea and six from tlie mouth of the Ebro, which washes the ramparts, more ornamental than aseful tothecity. It is anticnt and ill built. Scipio called it Dordosa, and rendercd it municipal In thecombatwith the Moors, the womcn mounted the ramparts and performed prodigies of valou r; for which, ire 1170, the Ordcr of the Flambeau (Hacha) was instituted with many privileges, of which the right of preccdency to the men in ma- trimonial ceremonies alone remains, The cathedral is large, fine, and rich in theologK cal and worldly treasures: the baptismal font is of porphyry. The castle is upwards of a niile square, but ruinous: 'in it the governor resides : from it the landscape is beautiful. Here are many ruins, subterraneous caverns, and inseriptions,* as usual, mtermixed with modem buildings.

* Among the ethnic treasures is a grateful inscription frorn. the city to the tutelar)' deity Pan. Pani. Deo. tuteíare. Ob. Legationes. in. Concilio. P. H. C. Aput, Anicianum. Aug. Prospere. ■ M. Gestas. Tlie city Anicianum Augwtum is not now known. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 231

The environs are beautiful, fertile in wine and fruits, and contain marble, jasper, and alabaster. cIuíõX" The Ebro abounds heie with fisb, and is covered with barks that yield a eommereial appcaranee. . The valley of Tortosa is beautiful; still nothing can be more dreary than tlie fifteen leagues whieh separate tliis eity from Cambrilis, hereafter descri bed. But, crossing tlie Ebro at the ferry of Amposta, an immense heath is to be passed, every where intersected by ravines for five leagues, to the miserable Perellos, at the bottom of a valley, surrounded r«eH». by a double rampart of mountains, which has no water, and is too poor to be taxed. The Spaniards are ignorant of the art of making roads, in whieh the Jlomans so mueh excelled.* 'After proeeeding two leagues and à lialf through a dreary country, in which the mountains, patched with venlure and liere and there a hut, sccm to grow out of eaeh other, the steep monntain of Bal- Baiiaguer. laguer, whose base is washed by tlie sea, is to be climbed in a spiral direction. Tlie Col de Baiiaguer is a narrow pass. On the summit is Fort St. George and some

• On this subject, so ncccssary in a mílitary point of viow, agreeable rcference raay be had to the Histoirc àes Çhcmiiu 01 Bjrgier. 232 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

towers planted with cannon, formerly garrisoned

Catai onía. hy the Walloon Gnards. The hollow beneath is called the valley of the gallows (barraneo de la ho- rea), placed there for prompt execution of robbers. Four leagues fartlier, after passing a village on the sea-shore with a tower and the remains of an antient castle, througli several rugged defiles, is CambriJis, Cambrilis, a small town from which wine is ex- por ted, It has a bad port and heach, and is nn- bealthy. Bourgoíng reports, that he saw a solitary Augustine convent from which the whole of its inhabitants had been recently swept away at once by the tertian fever.* . In the vast solitude which succeeds are the remains of antient fortifications, çajled the Hospitalet part of which serves for an jnij, Four leagues more of a very narrow and ruggçd

Villescca. road through the pretty town of Villeseca, produces that of Serafina. And at a league beyond may be. beheld the steeples of Tarragona. . Towers for the defence of the coast have bcen suffered to decay. The scene is enlivened. Passing the Francoli, Tarragona. over a strong bridge, we enter Tarragona.

* The. women of Uns part who perform the labours of men have not the beauty of those of northern Catalonia who weave. lace, which is contrary to the usual result. MZLITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 233

This is the Roman Tarraca, whieh gave its name to a great district, Tarraconensis ; it was fortified c by Scipio against the Carthaginians, and was a long time the seat of the Roman government in Spain. Here was a temple to Augustus, to whose statue incense was burned. The Roman vestiges are numerous but imperfect; part of its antient walls are, however, standing. There are the ruins of a palace of Augustus, remains of a circus and amphitheatre, and of an aqueduet near seven leagues in length, The bastions for defending the harbour are deeayed, and it beeomes dangerous and unfrequented. The Franeoii falis into the sea a quarter of a league from the city. The Gothic eathedral is elegant. The chapei of its tutelar saint Thula, built of màrble and jasper, is magnificent, The walls of the city scem to rise from the bosom of the sea, and the houses are built on high ground which commands the whole country; yet it is the capital of Catalonia, and disputes with Toledo the primacy of Spain. Some activity lias been exeited; the port íindcrwent improvement, and a road to Lerida was planned, to shorten the road to Arragon» Yet is Tarragona depopulated and little important. 234 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

One eannot sustain the recollcetion.—-How chaugeful are events; how fleeting is time!

The grcatcst quantity of Spanish brandy is made eampodc T«»r- in that extensivc traet called Campo de Tarragona, and in the vineyards of Réus. This small inland modern town is four leagues . to the north-west of Tarragon, from whiehitis separaied hy a fertile plain. Industry has rendered it prosperous; and, to the exertion of both thtse qualities, an English finn chiefly contributed, in the establishment of one of the finest distilleries in Europç, Great quantities of íeather are made .here, and at the neighbouring town of Valls. It has beautiful barraçks and a handsome theatre. ^

Fróm Tarragona on the road to Barcelona hand- u rigarettR. some houses extend to the hamlet of La Figaretta, at a short league distanee; and, at the end of twò more, formerly doubtíess a busy scene but now a lonely éountry, stands a triumphal arehof the time òf Trajan, in tolerable preservation. A league to the right of the road is the tower of the Scipios, a eeno-" taph of two Ilomans buried there, on whieh may yet l>e traeed two slaves in the attitude of grief. * A little beyond is the pleasing village of Alta- fouilla, and that of Toriade Embarra'on an em> nence by the sea, with a small road. . • MILITARY VIEW OF T1ÍE PENINSULAR 235 To these suceeed Vendrell, to whieh watcr runs from every quarter, where ave some agreeable f villas; and Arbouen situated on an cmincnce, v««i«sU. whence is seen Montserrat. Villa Franea, thc Carthago Vetas, a handsome víllage still surrounded by walls, prepares us for the vast chain of mountains, in tlie midst of which is the celçbrated convcnt of Montserrat, **wi th its

• Montscrrat is celçbrated frnm the order of' the Jesuíts, that acute and ovenvhelming commnnity, having been conceived by a military man in tlie gloom of its solitudes. On this account lhe folloiving adciilional deseription may be pardoned. , Nothing can be more picturesque than this mountain.; it is so iofty that wbcn you are on the top the neighbouring mountains appear to be sunk to a levei witli the plain. It is composed of stecp rocks, which, at a distancc, seem indcntcd, whence, it is said, it received the -name • MontserratJfwm thc Latin word serra,-* saw; as probable and • well-founded an ety- mology as many others which have been well-received in the world. It is impossiblo to describe the beauty, richncss, and variety, of the landscapes discovered from the most elevated poínt. The/ fatigue the eye, and most undoubtedly humble every thinking man; it is sutfícient to observe, that thc islands of Minorca and Majorca, which are at the distancc' of sixty leagues, are discovered from this eJevation. It is upon this famous mountain that adoration is paid to the statuc of the Virgin, discovered by some shcpherds in the year 880. The monastery, in which sixty monks Hve according tn the ruleofSaint Benedict, ís at the foot of a stecp rock. It was t there Saint Igriattus" devótcd himself to penitence, beeainc the 236* CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

30 o KL hermitages and church, its cighty stlver lamps, sbrines, crosses, &c. And, what is more rich, a Catalonia.

knightofthe virgin, and formcd the Idea of founding the too cclebrated society of Jesus. Upon one of the walls we rcad, B. Ignatius à Loyola kie múllâ prece Jietuque Deo se Virginique àevovit; Mc tanquam arrais spiritualibus sacco se munieiía pernocta~ vil', hinc ad sociclatem Jesufundanduin prodiil, anno 1522. And it was undoubtedly in the same place that he was inspired with the thoughtof copying the exercises of Montserrat, to make them becoraes tbose of his society; ananeedote but liitle koovvn, and which here deserves a place. The venerable father Cisneros, cousin to the famous cardinal Ximenes, reílored, when abbot of Montserrat, the Cenobites con- iided to his care to their primitive simplicity; and, to guiae them by a coostant rule in the paths of reformation, composed a book, inliluled Exercises qf the Spiritual Life, which was printed, in some what barbarous Latin, as wcll as in Castilian, at Mont- serrat, in the year 1500. These exercises wcre received with ve- neration, and read with great edification in ali the raonasteries in Spain governed by the rule of Saint Benedròt. Cisneros died in in t510, and was sueceeded by the famous Peter de Burgos, who was superior of Montserrat whcn Saint Ignatius, directed by the grace of God, carne into that solitude. The venerable abbot recommended to him the reading of the exercises; and ít was the bappy use he made of these which operated his conver- sion. He was so convínced of their excellence and utility,- that, fcaving conceived the idea of founding a religious society, hc transcribed them word for word, raaking a trifling change inthe order: so that it ís not true that they were communicated tohím, by inspiration or any other means, from the.Virgin; nor is there any instance of an ignorant man like Saint Ignatius composing so MIMTARY VIEW OF THE PENTINSULA. magnificent prospect of plains of immense extent, and the expanded bosom of the Mediterranean ^^ sea. « admirable a book. The Jesuits undoubledly knew lhe origin of lhe exercises wrilten by lheir foundcr, because they never produced the lext, and put nothing hut Iranslations or commentaries by Pinamouti, de Sencri, and several others, into the hands of lheir novices, and that by degrees the copies of the exercises of Cineros, and of lhose written by Saint Ignatms, were taken from lhe libraries. The Iearned Navarro having had the work of CU- neros reprinted at Salamanca, in 1712, lhe Jesuits found means to obtain an order to seize the whole from lhe printer; and, (o be revenged of Navarro, they injured him so much at court, lhat he lost a bishopric which had been promised him, and was certainly due to his uncommon merit. It is therefore improper lo síng at the celebration of Saint Ignatius mirabiltm composuit exercitomm Ubrtm, he composed an admirable book of exercises. I shall not speak of the immense riches lhe píety of devout persons has accumulated in the chureh of Montserrat, nor of lhe mimber of gold and silver lamps which burn bcfore lhe holy effigy. The most inleresting part of the mountain is the desert, in which are several hermitages, lhat are excellent asylams for true philosophy and contemplation. Each of these solitary re- treats, which ai a distance seem destitute of every thíng, has a chapei, a cell," a well in the rock, and a little garden. The her- mits who inhabit them, are most of them persons of fortune or family, disgusted with lhe world, who have retired Ihither to devote them sei ves to meditation and silence. The traveller is surprised to meet with delightrul valleys in the 238• r CAMPAIG2ÍS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL- BcHfp.Kn?' Terrasa, famous for its manufacture of fine ^J^T*^ woollen cloths, and the bridge of three separate Terrosa. stories for foot-passengers, beasts of burthen, and carriages, intervene before theLobregate iscrossed by its beautiful bridge near the King's Mills, (Los Mofinos dei Rey,) five hundred paces long* AU the wild and picturesque lias been here enjoyed. At three leagues, however, á wide and excellcnt road conducts the approach to Barcelona* AH is beauty and activity in the vicinity.of Barcelona, the antient Bareíno, built by Hamilcar the Carthaginian, at a hundred and twenty paces from the sca. Here areremains of an antient mag- niíkent edifice, the ruins ofan amphitheatre and batli, sevcn trunks of antient 'statues, and inscriptions. Yet, while Tarragona, has decayed, Barcelona bas wonderfully exceeded its origina} state. * . In a military point of view, Barcelona is a place of great importance. It long resisted, in J714, the Marshal de Berwick; and Philip ,V.. highly valued its conquest, without which he

J mtdst of thcse threateníng rocks, to find shade and verdure surrounded by sterílity, and to see natural cascadeá rush from the steepest points of the mountain, and no farther disturb the silence which reigns in that asylura than to render it more interestíng. \ MILITARY VIEW OF THE ÊEJÍ INSULA; • 239 wonld not liave tliouglit himself securely seated ^JJ^J1 on tbe throne ofSpain. In the war witli France, ^**y*~? it lias been dcclared, her generais looked to the i*"^000- reduction of this city as á decisive stroke. Its strength consists in the prodigiuus citadel which defends it on the east, and in Montjouy which commaiids and protects it on the west. Monjouy is a mountain of considerable height, on whose summit there is a large fortress capable of containing a numerous garrisom It is fortified with great care towards the city, and isremarkably steep on the side next to the sea. Though, says a French writer, its appearance at first sight is highly impos- ing, the professional man wlio takes the trouble to examine it soon discovers that it is too large, too much loaded with works, more massy and expensive than it is possible for them to bc usefulj and too higli to bc formidable to a bcsieging army encamped in the plain. Its rampart is by òthers considered magnificent, but the city too extensivo to be easily guarded and defended. The extensive arsenal (tesana), with its greãt gallery of forges, its numerous workmen, piles of red-hot iron and enveloping flame, is sufiiciently

described? as.well as, the foundry of cannon, with. its machinery, on .the construetion of Maritz, for boring cannon and mortars, on whieh plan some tliousand pieces of ordnance have been cast. 240 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL

The opposition to Maritz was extremely violent,

Catalonia» and a decisive experiment took place at Ocana, near the capital, at which four twcnty-four pounders were.tried, two according to the method of Maritz, and two on the old plan; the first were fired twelve hundred times without becoming uníit for service, while the latter were useless when the collective firings only araounted to nine hundred.* The cathedral is antient; the roof lofty, supported by a great number of columns; the inside spacious but gloomy. The palacc of audience is magnificent, the inside ornamented with marble columns; and in a great hall are found the portraits of ali the counts of Bar- celona. There is an exchange; and, inprovisions for the junta of commerce, even the arts and scíences are not neglected. The natural museum of the Salva- dors formed a valuable collcction.

Previous to continuing the prescribed route, it should be observed, the antient scene of military

Urlda. prowess and skill in Casar, Lerida, is the next city to Barcelona, to the left, on the road to, and twenty- five leagues distant from, the capital. The road is

Maritz oblained for hís skill the rank õf field-maxshal and a considerable pension. MILITAUY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 241

BOOK I. good, and full of towns and villagcs. The Nova, CU AP. II. which is to be frequcntly forded froin its serpentine ££££ course, turns numerous mills particularly thosc of paper. Igualada is situatcd in an indiífcrent ignaiada. country; Ccrvera on an eminence overlooks onc Cer»en. more fertile, and posscsses the university extraordinarily founded by Philip V. while lie suppressed others, and fivc thousand iuhabitants. The diocese of Solsona, in which these are situated, cqually dis- Soisona. tant from thc capital and thc coast, is wcll cultivatcd. In it, Cardona, a small town, is famousfor Cardon». its brilliantand inexhaustible salt mountain or mine, from which various imitations are beautifully forra-. cd in natural colours of orange, violet, green, and blue; and the surface of which at thc same time is clothed with shrubberries and cven pines. With ít thc natural is t is wcll acquainted from various sources. ,

■' Lenda, at thc western extremicy of Catalonia, Lcrid», by its canais and fértility, exhibits new claims to the antient verse of Claudian. It is entered from the east by a fine bridge over the Segre, wherc the s

against the lieutenants of Pompey, evincing what

Catalonia, pcrseverance with talent uncler the greatest dtsad- vantages may effect, consecrates the banksofSegre to military admirafion, but tliat Guischard, wliile yet ih the humblest obscurity of subtil ter n rank, oceupied himself in tracing the progress of Ctesar throughout, and by a learned conimcntary enlightened the generais of his own and future ages, anel gained for himself a never-failing immortality.— "With this work in our hand, says a military w ri ter, we ought to follow the coursc of the Segre from Ballaguer to Mequinenza. Froin ít may be derived ali the instruetion of history and the entertainment of romance. Lerida has been also a celebrated seene of modem battles and sieges. This ri ver, which rises at the foot of the Py- rènees, and traverses the fertile plain of Urgel, frequently destroys the effects of its bounty towards Lerida by innuitdations, which, with bad roads, forni a frequent calamity to the passenger.

Returning to our regular course, howcver, on re- tiring from the steeples, towers, and jamparts,'of Barcelona, a good road, ornamented with country- houses, which animatc the scenc, leads to the passage of the river Besos, dangerous and sometimes impracticable; or, by the new road along the coast Mat3ro. cutting through rocks and hills, reach Ma taro, a MILITAIIY VIEW OF TIIE PENÍNSULA.' 243

small town, índustrious and wcll peopled, with several manufactories and víneyards whose produee is celebratcd for its flavour. Haram, or Arens de An*» de Mar. Mar, lias a small dock-yard and a seminary for pí- lots; Canct de Mar is in an agreeablc situation, CanctdcMar manufactures lace, and trades with the West Indies. San Pol, a modem town, íncreases under the eftbrts Sm Po!- of induslry. Tampone, Pincda, wlicre travcllcrs Tampone, usually dine; Acalcilla and Magrat, a considerable Acaidiia. village, something in the Dutch style. The bcautiful secnery of the Meditcrrancan now ceases awhile till descending into the fertile plain, wherein is the solitary valley of the Grcnota, with- outany regular road, and afterwards, amidst Moors, the wood of Tiona. Gerona, (Gcrunda,) situated at the eonfluence of Gerona. the Onhar and the Dutu, which together form a large channel, now appears on a small elevation on the side of hills, which form a semicircular inclosure round it, and defended to the eastward by some redoubts. The ri ver Ter, which is fordable, runs thrcmgh it; ít is the seat of a diocese. The cathedral is a fine Gothic edifice, and rich in ecclesiastical treasure. Gerona is. the principal plaee of a considerable jurisdiction, in which are coinprehcnd- ed Ampurías and Rosas. » Olot, near the source of the Fluvia, is a small town but active in almost every manufacture. At oiot. li S 244 CAMPAIGNS IN SPA1N AND POIITUGAL.

two leagues, through a pleasant country, crossing a

Catalonia. rivulet near a mill, and a small hatnlet, is La Ma- drina, a bad uwi with a.pleasing prospeet. The road through a fertilc and well-cultivated country is now goocl, with the exeeption of a hill; and as it approaches Figueras it becomcs magnifi- centepassing over several bridges of granite. Figuerw. Figueras is a small open town, with wcll-eulti- vated environs, and covered with fortifications. The fortress of Figueras, the reputed bulwark of Catalonia, was bcgun undcr Fcrdinand VI. and was conceived, from the perfection of its means of defence, a master-piece of fortification. ,It is descri bed, tn 1795, as having the wails both of the interior and outer works of free-stone, and more than a fathom thiek; the ditches decp and a hundred paces broad. The approaches on the only side where trenches could be opened underminca; the chief cordon invisible from anyof the pointsof the exterior; the ramparts, barracks, hospitais, stables, cellars, magazines, every thing casemated. Watcr preserved ín fonr capacious cisterns at the four cor- ners of the place of arms, supplied by an aqueduet, and every means for the preservation of provisions of ali kinds. , Rosas. Rosas is four leagues to the west of Figueras, through Villa Baltran and Peralada, in a fine country. The fort of Trinidad (k Bouton) is percdved MILITAHY V1EW OF THE PENÍNSULA. > ií45 at thc distanee of near threc lcagues, like an anticnt castle in ruins, on thc declivity of the Pyrcnees, towards the sca. Rosas is on a levei; its fortifications consist of a double wall without ditch, covcred wa)r, or glaeis. The fort, the villagc, and Le Bou- ton, are in a semicircular forni, agreeable to the fiofurc of the coast. The interior cordon of the fort must be passed under to reach thc villagc, com- ])Oscd of one long strcet of white-washed houses.—^ Beyond thc village, rocks must be climbed to rcach le Bouton. The little fort defendsthe entrance óf the bay, and protects the village of Rosas, distant a long quartcr of a league, in a direct line. On tlie top are lights for mariners. The port is an im- mensc bay mueh too capacious. J Thc country next the Pyrenees is highly pie tu - resque. • After leaving the port, we pass the ridge which separates the bay of Rosas from that which faces it to the north, and which cannot be reached by sea without a long cireuit and doubling Cape Crcus. At two lcagues is Selva Alta, a town embosomed scUaM*. aniong rocks. Half a league farther is Selva Caxa, sei™c««. a town of considcrable size in an amphithcatrical, situation on the shore of the bay of La Selva.— Here is a small port with some trade, and in the environs a wine between Frontigniac and Slierry.'' Returning to La Figueras, along the steep shore 246 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUOAL.

of tbe bay, after deseeriding into a channiug dalc

Catalonia. (surrounded by vincs) in which is the town of Llan- sa, near a small creek of the same name; an antient castle appears on the acclivity, within sight of the town of Perelada, and at a distance the road winding from the town to the fort of Figueras, a short league distant. Lampcmdan, This is the beautiful country callcd the Lampe- rudan, injiired only by the inundations of the waters which contribute to its beauty. Figueras presents a distinct view of the Pyrences: the minor hills which brandi from them forni a distant circuit round the fortress, and descend to the sea at Cape de Palamos. From Figueras to Junquiéra the road is delight- Pont des ful over the hills, passing the little village of Pont Moliuoj. des Molinos, and in view of an extended range of eigh'ty redoubts, which too feebly defended this frontier. Ascending ahill, you approach the mountains, on one of which stands the tolerably-strong fortress of Bellégarde ; and at the foot, Junquiéra, a village of a single street. It is at the entrance of a valley widening towards Catalonia, which is happy in its agriculture and the revenue of tbe cork-trees that cover tbe neighbouring mountains. This latter little town is open on ali sides, and therefore, without] particular care and provision, nearly defenceless. Within the vicinity of both is MIL1TARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 247

K a small detached house with the remains of two *°A°4 ,J* columns, forming, with the usual marks, the boun- ^Çy^^ daries between Spain and France. Thus have \ve completed tlie north-east most travelleíl range of eoast, and arrivecl at a country which çannot be passed witbout mingled emotions of awe and pleasurc, the inighty froutier of the península. The pass of the Pyreuees lias numerous works of magnifieence, from which is beheld ali the romantic wildness of picturcsque beauty. Between the pass of Bagnouls. ncxt the 3\Ie- P*»»^*» diterranean, and the valley of Aran, near the source of the Garonne, there are, according to a French geographer qnoted by Bourgoing, sevçnty- fiye passes, or defiles, over the Pyrenees; twenty» eight of which are practicable for cavairy, and seven for carriages and artíllery; of these one is the Col des Orts, in a parallel line with that of Perthus, on the other side of Bellegarde, by which, in 1792, the Spaniards entered St. Laurent de Cerda and invaded France. The principal, however, are those from Bouton to Jonquere, Roncevalles to St. Jean Pied de Port, and Irun to St. Jean de Luz; suffieiently known, while fewof the others are marked, unless in the researches of military topography; or to excite admiration of the Cani- gou, covered with eternal snows. C'f8 CAMTAIGXS IN SPAIN AND TORTUGAL.

BOOK I. cu ■ i'. ri. Of Arragon so mu eh lias already been said in

Arragoi». tlie circuit of fifty miles round Madrid, that little remaius, on tlie part which joins Catalonia to Navarra at the foot of tlie Pyrenecs. This province lias much decaycd in importance and òi- minished in population. It has made a prominent figure in the story of free govermnentsj by * tlie controul exercised on the 'coronation of its kings, by that extraordinary orlicer, the justicia inayor, wlio, at the inanguration, clevated and eovered, thus addressed the monareb, " We, who are eacli of us as good as you are, liave received you for our king and lord, on condition that you maintain our riglits and liberties; if nòt, not. (Nos que valemos tanto como vos, os hacemos nuestro rey y senor, con tal que guardeis Ttuestros fueros y llbertades; Si NO, NO.)

At the distance of a great league from the fron- Tudcla. tiers of Arragnn is Tudcla, an inferior but -well built city. At the extremity of the broad Street which runs through it is a stone bridge over the i.Ebro, and leading from it the excellent road to : the- capi tal of* Na varre. The ground arou nd Tu- dcla is iit for every kind of culture, but has been liitlierto devoted to red wine, whieh is in great credit, as well as Peralta, a hw leagues from tlie road. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 249

With thc exeeption of the Bardina dei Rey, a wild pastoral distríct, the íirst six leagucs northward are in a highstate of cultivation. At cleven leagucs is Tafalla and the ensuing six lie through Tafaii*. a rich and populous country, which brings us to Pampeluna, the capital, situatcd on an eminence Pampeton». on the banks of the small Viver Arga. It contains about three»thousand houses, and is protected • b^ a cita dei and fort. It derives its eminence from bcing the seat of the governor and viccroy. * The pastoral valley of Bastan occurs on the right, five nr six leagues in d iam éter, (in which the 'Bielas- soa hasirssource,) ahoundingin fruits, riiaize, and grass, thescene of the border-confliets of Spain and OFranee. And at the endofsix leagues ofgoodroad through mountains, is Koncevallcs, famed in roman- Honcetiiic*. tic lore, though now a mere village, with toterable inns, roads antiently good, and a monastery of regular canons.l • •• • Hencc is the pass of the Pyrcnces by the foot of the mountain Altovizar to St. Jean Picd de Port in Frcnch Navarrcjfor this province even tower- ed beyond the boundary apparently prescribed by nature, and conscquently possessed not only its regai privileges, but even gave admission to-foreign merchandise, without duty or examination, till it arrived at Aguesta, the first eustom-housc of Castile. *$0 ÇA5IPA1GNS IN SPA1N AND PORTUGAL.

The pass into Biscay frora Bayonne througli St. Jean de Luz is over a bridge which crosscs a small anu of the sea, towards thc suburbs of Sibourra; the next object is the church of Orogna, and at a irai. league is Irun, the first Spanish village béyond the boundary of the Bidassoa. Near it on the right WcoiPheasants is the Isle of Pheasants, or the Conference, (from one which was holdeu there betwecn cardinal Ma- zarine and Don Loius de Ha.ro for a peace). It is small, barren, and uninhabited. Thc roads in 3pain at this coast of the Pyrencc* are as superior to those of France as the latter exeeed those of thc former next the Meditena- iiean., • BíSWJ. : J?i?,Çay is a country full of difficulties, and appears jndee^ a prolongation of the Pyrenees, (which are less eleyated l^erc t]ian at any other part,) cxtcnd- ing {o Çastile. Notwithstanding ali the difficulties of rugged precipices and abrupt heights, the

people imited t\ip\x labpurs and formed hçre the first apa\best roads of Spain. In no respect is Biscay much indehted to nature. The thiee proyinces of Biscay, Guipuscoa, Viz- caya, and Alava, have a separate local goyern- mpnt, formed by deputations of municipal corpora- tions. The coast of Gruipusçpa is possessed almost entirely by fishermen and mariners. M1LITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 251

B K L The chief city is Bilboa, though it has not four- CJA®. „ teen thousand inhabitants. Its tanneries and ^^ corn-mills formed its antient opulcnce, which has BUbofc now turned entirely into cominerce, in which are several foreign establishments. Yet the re- striction appears long and forcibly to have contir nned, which precluded fbreigners from renting houses in Bilboa, in consequence of which the name of ara inhabitant was obliged to be borrowed. The buildings are improved. The town is near the sea, on the bank of a river whose course is short, but which is deep enough to receive large raerchantmen. Here are also the ports of passage St. Sebastian, Deva, and Fontarabia. From Hernâni, the first constdeiable town after Hernâni. Irun, there is an exccllent road to St. Sebastian, the capital of Guipuscoa. It is connected with the contiuent by a low and narrow neck of land. The port is comnianded by an eminènce, on which is an antient castle in ruins. From várious points of a sloping and spiral walk which conduets tothis castle the smallnesss of the port is particularly striking. It is neatly and regularly built, and presents an active scene: the governor resides there. A short league along the shore, at the foot of mountains encireling an immense bay, with the ocoCO CAMPA1GNS IX SPAIN AXD PORTUGAL.

appearance of a lakc, from the projcction of the land, is a passage, wbich is thiis approached by BíSCíJ. crossing its harbour. Tbe city is on a confinai spot bctwecn the mountain and thebay, and commanded by a castle, which, from one side furnishcs a view of the basin, on thc other, tlie open sca. For tbirty leagues from the Bidassoa to Vittoria some new village or hamlct is constantly prescnt- » ing itself and its industry. It is worthy of remark that, as hosts and guides, the disinterested kindness and readiness of the Biscayans has been the constant subject of culogy of every traveller. Bergaia. Biscay possessing iron, at Bergara a metallur- gical sehool has been established, to enable the hetter working of it.

IruiL The road from Irnn, throngh Hernâni, embo- Tolos» somed in hills, to Tolosa, advances towards the capital, at the point opposite to that at which this arrangement of the present writcr quittcd Madrid to proeeed to the sou th. This road, similar, to that toward Cadiz, is ton eminent to admit of neg- leeting the excnrsion it proposes.

Hernâni. A small river, which watcrs Hernâni, aceonv panies the road for a time, and appears at Tolosa, but then.disappears till Mondragon, isreaehed after having experienced the elegant eíforts of MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA, 25S

B K r industry in scveral good bridges. The road hence c°°p „ ; lies through Alegria, a city famous for the birth ^Pr""~' of some eminent Spaniards; and Villafranca and A!c8««- Villareal, serene .and cheerful, conduet to the vm™»!. little city of Mondragon, equally so; two leagues Mondragon, before which the road divides to Madrid and to Durango, on the road to Bilboa. Beyond Durango the road is impassable for carriages, and every way deficíent comparcd with that through Orduna froíii Madrid. . .. Vittoria is five leagues from Mondragon, in vittona. which oceurs the steep ascent of Salinas, wbere many accidents have happcned.* Tt is tlic capita! of the province of Alavcr, ill built and ill paved, but active. It has, however, a largc square, with nineteen árcades on each side, planned with much genius, though irregular, by Olarvide, a native.

* There Is a story of a muleteer, relating to thís place, which exites a smile; and, being lold hy a grave ministcr-plempoten- tiary, may be admílled here. Acconlíng to the custom of his profession, the representations of his tutclary saints were carried with him, but, notwilhstandíng due invocation, did not preveni his carriage falling over a.precipice, or themselves tumbling wiUi it; upon which he instantly smashed ibem in a lhousand pieces, cxclaiming, as he did it, wilh vtsibie emotion, expressivo of his convictíon of ibeir inutility, « AI demones Sanla Barbara! a los diablos San Francisco! ai inflem Nuestra Senora dcl Cármen! &c. &c. • ' /; j > :, ; • > 254 CAJIPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND P0RTUCAL.

This is the last city o» the fronticr of Castilc,

Biscoy. and subject to the collection of customs. Quitting it on the right is the river of Arriaza, over which is Paella. a stone bridge. The villages of Puella and Armi- Arminon. non sueceed, fròm which is a most perfect road. Miranda. At five leagues is Miranda, through which runs the Ebro, crossed by a fine stone bridge» In front is a small stony liill surmountèd by a ruinous castle. To this sueceed the high aiid picturesque rocks of Pan corvo. • »* Mayago, Two leagues farther, at Mayago, is the entrance of the narrow and winding valley formed by these rocks; and half a league onward at their fect stands the village; and withtn a short space thosc of Santa Maria dei Cubo and El Cubo, where the indolencc and gloom of Castile are but too apparcut > . \ Sriblcsca. Vast plains, tolerably cultivated, precede-Bribirj esca, a small town surrounded with walls, having four gates placcd symmetrically. It has some gardens and orchards. Hence to Burgos is six leagues, of a parched and naked district, including Monasterio and Quintana, miserablc villages, near the íatter of which nevertheless is a fine stone bridge. Borgoi. Burgos, the capital of Old Castile, is on the right bank of the Arlançon, over which it has three bridges, and at the foot of an eminence, on the ♦. summit of which are the ruins of aaold.castle.-^- MIL1TARY V1EW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 255

Reduced from commerce and active industry, it is BOOK i. "" CKAP. II. now confined to the caniage of wool. W-y-^ The cathedral is a most magnificcnt spectacle in the Gothic styie, containing in one of its chapeis, an exquisite picture of Michael Angelo, of the Vir- gin clothihg her infant Jesus. Burgos is the hirth-place of two cclebrated captains, Ferdinand Gonzales and the Cid Campeador: ' a triumphal arch and monument have been erected to them. It has a square, afFecting grandeur by a statue of Charles TIT. in bronze, as mean as are the houses which surround it. The Arlançon embel- lishes and fertilizes it, and also washes the walls of the monastery of Las Huelgas, a convent for ladies, the ahbess of which has considerable privileges; and of the Hospital dei Hey, an institution upon the usual respectable plan of the Spaniards. ín the vicinity is the Chartreau de Miraflores, where are handsome tomhs of John II. and his queen. The Arlançon is in sight to Villadrigo, a miser- Arlançon. able village on the right bank, in the bottom of a Vãst plain, in which are vineyards. The Pisuerga, a small river nínnmg from north to south, and capable of being adapted to more extensive purposes, also appears here. On its banks, after having passed two rugged mountains, are Quintana de la QuintaIiade J» Puenta, near a stone bridge of eighteen arches, and Torquemada, into which the Pisuerga is again 256 CAJIPAIGNS IN SPAÍX AND PORTUGAL*

passed over a solid bridge of twenty-six arehesí then the viliagc of Magaz, near which the Arlanza ' Bíscay. joius the Arlençon; and a little farther on, at the approach of the Duenas, these two rívers are united to the Pisuerga, and then to the Carrion, the whole of which skirt Valladolid bcfore faliins; into the Douro. On the left of Dnenos is a large eonvent of Benedietines called San Isidro, in front of which is an exeellent road. r»Uncía. Paleneia, situated in the eentre of a country re- nowned for its fertility, (la Tierra de Campos,) lias greatly fallen from its antient splendour, and is only distinguished by the magnifieenee of its eathedral and manufactures of woollen eoverlets, flamiels, and serges. Dueo». Duenas, two leagues from Paleneia, though agreeably situated, and with some appearanee of industry in the manufacture of wine-tuns, is gloomy ; and the descent from it nakecl and uninteresting. Cabczon. From Cabezon, which boasts a large stone bridge, Valladolid, appears through anavenue half a leaguc in lcngth, whieh with cross walks forms a promenade. There are also agreeable plantations along the Pisuerga upon the Synau, called the Campo Grande, at one of the extremities of the cíty. Valladolid. Valladolid is remarkable for its immense síze, and the thirteen churehes witlrin its walls, as well ' as its regular square with three rows of balconies, MILITART VIEW OF TIIE PENÍNSULA. 257

1*11 which, according to fame, 24000 persous may bc seated. It is the residence of a bishop, the seat of a university, of a patriotie society, of one of tlie sevcn great colleges of the kingdom, and of one of tlie suprcmc tribunal % which are called Cancil- leria. The court was for sometime fixed títere. Out of the town» in spite of tlie general fertility, ali is gloom and iiulolence. Its manufactures of wooiieu cloths, of goldsmiths and jewellers,. are tlie cliief remains of its aetivity. There are schools for drawing, the mathematics, &c

At a league from the eity is the convent of Fi«uiaWagn. Fuensaldagne, where are some of the best pictures of Rubens. At another league is Siinancas, the principal depot of the archives of the monarchy, This is the prineipal scene of the valuable cultivation of maddc/. A dreary and unproductíve territory is crossed to Olmedo, a ruined city in the niidst of a bound- otaeí* iess plain, except towards the north, where are a fcw hills. It was fonnerly strong, as appears by the remains of a thick* wall, extending three quarters of a league. There are sevcn convents and as many churehes, some gardens, and brick- kilns. Hence is a road to the right and left, to Madrid VOL. I. 258 CAMPA1GXS IX SPA1NT AND PORTUGAL.

and Segóvia. Sevcral miserable villages are passeei throiigh a bad road to Sanchídrian, whence sueceeds Old Castile. Sanchidrun. the rocky dístrict separating Old from New Castile. San Rafael. The Diversorio de San Rafael, a good hotel, how- Villacastiit, ever, oceurs, and tlie village of Villacastin. Soon appear tbe plain of New Castile and the town of Guadaramma, with few marks of the approach to a great capital. By the Scgovian road San Giustc. are passed the large townsof San Giuste and Santa Santa liaria de Kiuva. Maria de Nieva. In the extraordinary winding road to Segóvia is fhst seen, on the right, anold castle at the summit of a rugged precipice, on the left a deep valley watered by a riviiiet and clothcd with verdure.

SesroTtn. It is built upon two hills, and the valley between th em and a part of the city therefore are deprived of water. To supply them, as is supposed, in the reign of Trajan, the Roínans built a

RomanAque- fani0lls aqueduct, upon a levei at its origin with the rivulet whieh it recetves, and, supported at first by a singlc stage of árcades, only thiee feet high, it proceeds to tbe hill at the other extré- mity of the city, and preserves its levei by an increased depth, as the ground sinks over wbich it runs : it has two branches which form an obtuse angle with the city. At the commencement of .the angle it becomes grand, from the two rows 1IILITAKY VIEW OF THE PKNINSULA. 25Q of árcades, whose diminutivo base excites astonish- "J™1*'* ment at the solidity which lias preservcd it for ^ciiií^' sixteen centuries. It is simply built of square stones resting upon eaeh otlier, apparently by tlie manner in which they are placed, and witliout eement. Edifices of modem structurc and importancc support themselves against it. The castle, or alcazar, formerly inhabited by the Gothic kings, is in good prescrvation. It was long used as a príson for the Barbary corsairs. A military school was establislied here for artillery officcrs, under the direction of the inspector-general of artillery. The cathedral is a mixture of the Gothic and Arabic style, large and majestieally simplc. The grcat altar is decorated with the finest Granada mârbles. At two leagues distance, at the foot of a chain of mountains, wliích separate the two Castiles and are prolonged by sinuosities on the left, is the palace of St. Ildefonso, surrounded in part by a de- $t B

interior, the gardcir front lias a façade of thc Coriu- thian order, not without dignity. The king's apart- New Castile. mcnts are sufficicntly splendid, and the gardens proruse of ornaments which it wcre unneeessary to detail to military readers. The articles of sculp- ttire and ornamcnt are of Frencli manufacture; those of elock-work and utility English. Phi- lip V. expended forty-fivc millions of piastres in building the castle and laying out the gardens of St. Ildefonso; at his death it was ahandoiied by the court. IIis \vitlo\\r, Isabclla Farnesc, for thirteen years shut hcrself up herc in profound retirement, sitting up 011 ly at night, and abandoring entirely the world. In an instant, however, thc ílamc or ambition rekindled on the ascension of her son, Charles 1IÍ. in 175.9, over whom shc maintained nnboundcd influence to tlie end of her lifc. St. Ildefonso, bcing upwards of twenty leagues from Madrid, can only be deemcd a hunting-rc- sidcnce, and in that charactcr has rccciral many brilliant vi&itors, who werç supcrbly attcnded. Herc were fonnerly scveral good pietures, but thc palacesof Madrid and Arnnjuez liavc been enrichcd at its expense. Iirthe vicinity eount Florida Blanca established a lincn-manufactory for the employmcnt of thc peoplc. Near it is the only manufactory of lookiug- MILITART VIEW OF THE PENI.VSULA. 20*1

B glasses in Spain, to which is also annexed one for c°fp* ** common glass of almost every description. Both ^^^ are of great respeetability. Within a quarter of a Icague of the palaec, between two picturesque riclges of rocks, runs the romantie little ri ver Eresma, ornam cri ted in a itiver Eresma. most pleasing manner by Charles III. for bis amusement. The environs of Paular, iu the neighbourhood, Paul», were also used for the saine purpose. Paular is a wealthy monastery of Carthusians, at the foot and on the other side of the steep mountains which òverlook the palace ; the valley beforc it is delightful, watered 'by a large rivulet, which tbence wanders to groves and vast meadows, and turns a paper-niill in its way, the onty sound that interrupts the most profound tranquillity. The monastery has a large eloister, in which is painted, by V. Carducho, a Spanisb artist, the life of St. Bruno. At three leagues distant, in a sandy desert, used for the same purpose, is the palace of Itiofrio, Pfiáceonuo- a small model of that of Madrid, built by order of Isabella, in her retirement, and abandoned on her rcturn to court unfinished. Across the Eresma, about three quarters of a league from St. Ildefonso, over a stone bridge, js Balsain, a village in a hollow, surrounded by Baisain. • £62 CAMPA1GNS IN SPA1N AND PORTUGAL.

i thick woods, which was another abandoncd liunt-

New Caslile. ing-scat. Aseending for two leagues the rugged acelivity of the mountainous frontier of New Castile, the road is sliaded by large pines, and becomes very bleak towarcfs the lieight of the seven eliffs, (los siete picos,) whieh appear from St. Ildefonso an i 111 mense battlement, and which now present a view of the most various and extensive k*m

Thus arrived at Madrid from the northern road, or that which might antiently have heen denominated the road from Paris, the direction falis into the southern part of the arrangement which has directed these pages. Return we, therefore, to Valladolid; between \ which town and Oviedo, the capital of Asturia, 2&i CAMPAIGNS IX SPAIN A1ÍD PORTUGAL.

^•M^Í. arc c'ont leagiies of a sandy wastc, unenlivened

New Castile. by any vcrdurc except pines and brushwood. Yaitedilla». Vastedillas, a small town, is partícula ri se d by Bour- going only to censure the pretensions to nobility of certain inhabitants, who appèar not.to have conceived that a change of circumstances ought to invalida te the pride of family. It seems n e ver theless worthy of a better fatc.

Astúrias. Of the Astúrias, to which we are thus led, even after the trifling details already aflforded in thesc pages, but little can- remain to be said, notwithstanding this tprritory gives the tttle of prince to

the eldest son tof, the king of Spain. The whole province is mountainous and woody, yet it produces some wines and fruits, and numerous horses. It also possesses mines of gold, lápis lazuli, and vermillion. It is divided into Asturia d'Oviedo and Asturia de Santillana ; the niotliers of a racc, hardy, bold, and free. santillana. Santillana, the capital of Asturia de Santillana, though seated near tlie Bay of Biscay, boasts a vale of some fertility, besidea name consecrated by

the romance of vLc Sage. Aituria owed

Deva, whích afterwards form the Asta. It is a hishop*s see, and lias a university. In its neigh- Jj^f bourhood are the hot springs of Rivera de Abajo, the qualities of which are similar to the Bathwaters. At six leagues distance is Santianes, Santian«.

Thos pass we into Gallicia, near the coast of &&&. which the air is more temperate than in the interior, but the population dirTerent. Ferrol, the first maritime object of importancc, FmoL is situated in a bay of the Atlantic, near the cape of the same.name, surrounded by the sea on three sides, and fortiíied on the other. Its harbour, one of the best in Europe, was the ordinary rcndezvous of the Spanish fleet in war. At three leagues from Ferrol is the sea-port of Corunna,' with a large and safe harbour called the Coramu. Groyne. The town is of a circular form, but the poverty of the surrounding country yields it but few commercial advantages. It is built upon the neck of an -irregular penín- sula, de fende d by a chain of basti ons; the citadel on an angle fornis one horn of a small bay, on the other, St. Diegos poinr, is a fortress, and in the centre on a rock is the castle of António. ' The whole are completely commanded by the neighbouring heights, which ncarlysurround the town. The soundings in the inner harbour are said to 260 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL

from six an( 'CBA^II'* . kc l scven fathoms to three and a

Galileia. orwn'1 Bay. Westward of the town is Orsan's bay, betwcen points Misillora and Orsan; on the latter is the Tower of Hercules, a lofty light-house. South- ward ts a doublc range of hilis, thosc of St. Mayarct, &c. coiSdfr. â'nt âS° ê Compôstella, the capital, a me- tropolitan, and posscssing a university not without eniincuce, is situated in a beautiful plain, \va- tered on cach side by the Jambra and Ulla. It lias fine public squares, churches which may boast inagnifieencc, and numerous convents for monks and nuns. A statue, carved in wood, of St. James, (Jago,) the patron of Spain, stands on the high altar of the cathedral, wbere bis body is said to be buried, whiçh attracts numerous pilgrims, and theír usual advantaçcs. Vi*°* Vig°> sixtecu leagues sou th of St. Jago, celebrated for the granel coup-de-maiu of the English fleetand their allies, in 1702, must not be unno- ticed. It is defended by a fort on an eniinence, and an old eastle, with otber fortifications. The vicinity is fruitful. One more deviation from the prescribed route B»joMa. is necessary, to notice Bayonna, seated on a smaU . MILITABY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. £6*7 gulphofthc Atlantic; and, at three leagues distancc, on tbe frontier of Portugal, Tuy, surmounted by walls and ramparts, on a mountain near tbe Tuy' jiver Minto. Three leagucs from Corunna, and six from Ferrol, on a península formed by tbe junction of thc Mandea witb another small river, stands jBetanzos. Over tbe former is a bridge of tbirteen Betamos, arcbes. Nothing can bc more bold, and sometimes gfoomy, tban this road. Lugo bas notbing tbat L,1s0' demands notice btit its cathedral, and the Tom- bago, which is ratber deep bere. Two villages, Constantine and Sobradelo skirt it; at tbe former Consuminc

is a fine bridge of four deep arches over a ravine. BridEe. The country now becomes more fertile, and covered witb fine oak. But tbe road winding along a stream of water to Nogalis is extremely bad, and continues so over a mountain to the village of Honorias, covered by a wood. n»noriaf. On tbe summit of tbe mountain, which is the boundary of Gallicia, chiefly covered witb snow, ■ is tbe village of Cabrero, near tbe puerto, or pass. Cabrei». A few solitary hamlets continue to oceur m the deep valleys, and the road winds along tbe rigbt side of a stream at the foot of a* mountain, often cut through rocks of granite, which oceur almost - ajl tbe way to Astorga. This is the Caminha .268 J CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Real. For some miles lofty chesnuts and oaks shade it on the right, and occasionally the Val- Gllllicín. The V alçarão. carso rushes upon it from the mountains. This n- ver runs between the hiils and the town of Vi Ha Franca dei Curzo, and uj)on its banks is an old castle coinmandmg the Gallician pass, the domain of the Marquis- Villa Franca/ Yilla Franca Yilla Franea dei Bierzo is situated in a little valley, the neighbourhood of which is highly cultivated, remarkablc only from being a laughable scenein the Adventures ofGH Blas. Cacabcloj. . The village of Cacabelos succeeds, in a country fenced with hedges and interspersed with corn Cubillo». and turnipfields; and Cubillos, seated on a beautiful spot near the foot of a hill, on which stands an old convent, coinmanding the surrounding fertile country. Here is a handsome bridge of a single arch thrown over a fine ri ver, rolling amid rocks and woods of chesnut trees. In the niidst of the valley of El Bierzo, watcred by a braneh of Bembibrt. the Alinho, lies Bembibre, a town of little note; and- shortly after the stupendous remains of an antiçnt castle. Proceediríg thence, commanding the pass of the mountain, and at the conflucnce Ponlcmid». of two torrents, is the town of Pon ferrada, or

Mofma Seca. the impregnable bridge; and Molina Seca at the FuenScvadon. extremity of the pass of Fuen Sevadon. The road now ascends, along the edges of precipicts, MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 26$ through the village of Sevadon, amidst mountains covered with thick clouds and drifting snow, to Manzanal. The frontierof Gallicia is now passed into Leon, >•*«■ the capital of whieh zequires a shortsuspension of the present route. It is plcasantly situatcd near the northern frontier of the province, whieh is di- Vided from that of Asturia by the Sierra de las As- túrias. Its environs are fertile and embellished vi th plantations. It lias but the remainsof a cloth- manufacture, butin it,-as usual, are thirtecn churehes and nine convents. The population is very confined. Ou the road from the city of Leon to Palencia, on the borders of Castile, is the canal of Campos, CanaiofCa»- commeneed under the administration of Ensenada, intended to flow into the Douro by Palencia and Duenas. The country theneo to the Medinas is a parcFied desert, Medina dei Campo, formerly a royal residenee, Medina dei . Campo. oceupied by great events and extensive eommerce, its great fairs, rooney-dealings, and cloths, is no longer active or remarkable, but for its churehes and fine shambles. Medina de Rio Seea is redueed in the same man- Mediu d«K» ner to fourteen hundred liouses, from an opulence produced by its fairs, whieh proeured for it the ap- 270 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK I. pellation of Little índia (Indian Cliieá). Here are* CHAf. 11. tbe ruins of a castle, strongly but unsuccessfully Lcpn. besieged by Henry de Traiistamare, when opposed to the king Don Pedro. Returning to tbe western frontier,—— Astorga. Astorga, famous for Gil Blas's escape from the robbers cave, stands, surrounded by old walls, on a small plain at the foot of a range of high moun- Sierra de Scva- tatns, called the Sierra de Sevadon. Near the town dou. are the ruins of a handsome castle of the Marquis Astorga, and, beneath, tbe small ri ver Tuerria.— The cathedral church demands not niuch consíder- ation, though this was once called the city of príests. Ponte dei Ponte dei Orbigo is a small town, named from Orbigo. its bridge of several arches over the Orbigo, which unttes with the Ezla, and, after a winding course, falis into the Iverto and Duero at six leagues below Zamora. After fording the Ezla, at a ridge of shingles, on a rock, are perceíved the huge massy towers of the Castle of Doo castle of Don Juan, whence he was precipitated Juun, into the river by his cousin Juan de Roble, for es- pousing the cause of Alphonso of Portugal against Ferdinand. Valência de Valência de Don Juan succeeds, and Sahagun, Don Juim, Sabagun. often whelmed in rain and mu d, but in a plain of great fertility, and crowned by a rích abbey; nu- MIL1TARY V1EW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 271 merous villages skirt the road, which for several leagues folio ws the course of a stream tributary to T the Ezla, till, crossing it by a low bridgc, we ascend to Mayorga. The poverty of appearance in thc people is exccssive. The immense flocks of the Mesta, that obnoxious agricultural monopoly, are spread about this country, and to the town of Valdcras, on the bank of Valdez. the little river before mentíoned. Severa! villages of mud hovels, as Villalpando, sueceed, and an open viiuipaudo. country is passed to Castra Nuevo, not much better, Castra Nucvo. on a small eminenee. Thenee sueceeds the antient city (the Roman Sc- nica) Zamora, on a liill coinmanding the Duero, Zai»Qr». over which is a fine Gothic stonc bridgc of eleven arches, the mediam of a grand comimmicatton with the south. Zamora* is surrounded with a strong wall flanked with square towcrs, and has an appearance of strength. It is the scat of the military government of Old Castilc." The road to Toro winds with the Ducro through a pleasant vale, diversified with villages, groves of oak and alder, and good pasturage. The hills are covered with vines.f * This narae will be readily recognized as of lhe Moorish dialect; it arose from the number of lurquoises, so ealled formerly, found there. f The red wine produced from thera isconsidered asapproach- . mg to the quality of Burgundy. 272 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGA^.. Upon an eminence on tlie bank of the Doure/ stands Toro, of great antiquity, and formerly some importance, as appears from its being still surrounded by a mouldcring clay wall, with- square towers and a deep ditch. The interior, however, exhibits only symptoms of decay, though it is yet populous,* Descending from the town, tlie Duoro is cfossed/ by a stone bridge of ten arches, into a piam laid out in vines and corn, through which, on a good road, passing a decayed village or two with a mi-' serable picture of civilization, you proceed to Alacjos. Alaejos, ín a ílat and unsheltered country, varied only by some thickets of evcrgreen oaks; and, through the small village of Calizal, to Sala- Salamanca. manca. This city, famous among the Romans, and familiar to the rcaders of Gil Blas, is chieíly pteced on three sand-stonc hills in an inlet of the Tormes, a few leagues before it falis into tlie Douro. The vicinity of Salamanca by tlie river ís divided into com-fields on the right, and pasturage

* One would imagine this town had been pre-eminent in the nationaí custom of bull-fights, smce that animal is the prcvail- ing emblem on the public buildings; and the narae might casily be traced to the buli (tauro). But Stul-cla/art antiquartanism is already exhaustcd in the theatre of Morviedro, (p. 220, &c.) Yet these*rccollections are by no means without their use. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 273

K on the left bank, where are large flocks of sheep ™% tl' intended for the metropolis. In the neighbourhood are estates of the Duke of Alva. The principal approacli to Salamanca is by a handsome bridge of the Romans over the river Tormes, whicli lias, however, been extended since their time from something more than half that number to twenty-five arches. In the centre is a square tower, with a gateway which formerly contained a portcullis. This object, united with the biiildings of the city, its tòwers and domes crouded together, form an impQsing spectacle. The city is entered from the bridge by a tri~ nmphal arch of the Romans, from which the principal street descends. In it is the remarkable, if not elegant, Gothic cathedral;* near it the church of St. Mark, an immense building with a rich Corinthian pórtico, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, who educated thirty young ecclesiastics, many of whom were Irish, novv possessed by regular canpns, where is painted by Bayeux the life of St. Ignatius Loyola: to the right is a handsome modera square, surrounded by good houses,

• The boldness of its nave and lhe finish of its Gothic orna* ment give it this eharacter, and the period of its execution, lhat of Leo X. ought to have added a better taste to the whole. A cupola of Ionic graces the Gothie arehitecture. Here are good pictures, by Titian and Spagnoletti, with an exceUentorgan.

VOU I. T 274 CAMPATONS IH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. lofty, and, adorned by three rows of balconies on a piazza, fornis tlie public pronienade. It cousists Leon. of ninety árcades; in the intervals between tlie arches were placed medallions of the moss illustrious persons of Spain, on one side ali the kings of Castile up to Charles III. on the other Spanish heroes, as Bernard dei Carpio, Gonsalvo de Cór- dova, and Ferdinando Cortez, whom who would not contemplate? Adjoining this square is another forming the market for vegetables. The university, which long attracted students from every part of Europe, though no longer so celebrated, lias still sixty-one profcssorships, and a college for tlie dead languages. The philosophy of Aristotle is yet taught Four out of seven of the great colleges of Spain, (collegios mayores,) or houses of education, have vast cstablishments in this city. Thatof St. Bar- tholomew has tasteful architecture, is rich in nianuscripts, and has producedmen of great genius and erudition.* The churches are good: the choir of that of the Augustins is painted by the celebrated Palo-

* The writer is not prepared for lheir enumcralion ; for, though the fertility of Alphonso Tostado is proverbial with any one who writes much (ha escrito mas que cl Tostado), he is but too wclí aware of the difference between writing much and ucll to begin with Tostado, MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 275 mino, whose lives of the Spanish paintcrs, says an artist, are cxquisite lectures on the fine arts. A cloister of the bare-footed carmclítes is painted in fresco, with the horrible subject of the Moorísh barbarities on their Christian prisoners. Thróngh the poor villages of Siete Carreros and SIcte Carreroj. Bobeda de Castro, and extensivo woods of the BoWdade . Castro. evergreen oak, oecupied by large nerds of swme, fed by peasants, who beat from the boughs of the oaks their mast, which showers upon them, passes the road to St. Martin*s dei Rio and a dreary s. Martin doi • . J Rio. scene. lhence it follows to the village of Espiritu Espiritu sauto. Santo, and, rising to the summit of a high hill composed of lime-stone, passes a stcep and ragged defile, following the course of a torrent to wíthin two miles of Ciudad Rodrigo. Rodrigo stands on a sand-stone rock, on the ciudad Rodrigo banks of the Aguada. A large square tower, with battlements and loop-holes, overlooks the bridge, and the road, which as it were winds round it for a short time, and then enters the town by a strong gate with turrets. Its streets are generally narrow and wíthout pavement for foot-passengers, but othenvise well paved. Ithas two squares, one approaching the the cathedral with good houses, chiefly inhabited by tlie clçrgy, the other containing a well-supplíed market. T 2 276 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK I. CIIAP. II. The h ou ses are built of a fine rich ochre-coloured

Estremadura free-stone. » There is a cathedral of tolerable beauty. The people are not superior to the population in general; their dressis singularly mixed; and, in addition to this singularity of their native costume, themen wear a sortof tartan plaid, not dissimilar from that of the Scotish highlander. Pass from Estre- From Ciudad Rodrigo to what may be called madura into Portugal. one of the primary passes into Portugal, a handsome bridge of ten arches over the Águeda leads the way througli a fcrtile plain, bounded in the distance by lofty hills. Thence through some small villages, poor but cleanly, and exhibiting marks of the care and caution of civilization, including guards of iron doors and windows, is àp- proached, near a small rivulet, the Fort of Con- ception and the boundary on this side of Spain.

Estremadura The province of Estremadura is now soon entered; in it the outer circle of the present imaginary route terminates, on the north-west of Sierra Morena, by which it is naturally separated from Andalusia. The Guadiana also, here stretched out of its concealment, and separating Portugal from Spain, flows into the gulf of Cadiz. Spanish Es- tremadura has been not unaptly described as* a rocky surface almost covered with a forest of MILITARY VIEW0F THE PENÍNSULA. 277

cork-trces, yet frequently affording views liiglily ^^^ picturesque. ^ZZto? Nor is it hy any means deficient in com, wine, and fruits; yet the air is considered not healthy to foreigners from its sultryness. Ou the hills, which, indecd soon present themselves, are fed greatherds of black swine.* In a platn surrounded by these mountains, near forty leagues west of Madrid, is the town of Pia- riacem».

• Itmayrelieve the aridnessof these sketchesto add a singular instance of religious gallantry, related as having happcned in this provi nce. " Going to vísit (says tíie relater) a young lady of sweet manners, of an aroiable and lively character, indeed, blest with ali the agreeable qualities of her age and sex, on a Good Friday, her countenance and deportment displayed an air of cheerfulness, and she was dressed in a beautíful whíte robe. He asked her the reason of this extraordínary appearance, on a day of mourning and penitence, ' You will soon know,' said she. At this rnoment the flagellants were to pass her house. She waited for them with every mark of impatience. At last they appear. She approaehes the window, whieh wason the ground-floor, and next the street. The flagellants stop before her andlash themselves. In an instant she is besprinkled with drops of blood from their bodies, and appears delighted at seeing her garments wet with this horrid dew. The enigma of the wbite robe was now explained; gallantry intermingled itself, as usual, in this religious operation of penitence; the lover of the young lady, being among them, thus testified his ardency and readiness to spill his blood in her ' servicc." 278 CAMPAICNS IN SPA1N AND PORTUGAL.

centia, of which the only objects to be remarked are, that it has a castle and a few fortiíications, and E3trcniadut». is the seat of a diocese. , It should not be omitted to mention that at Ta- lavera dei Reyna, in New Castile, on the borders of this province, wbere are manufactures of silk onTheiSeu and a foundry, is a Koman temple. Alcântara. At Alcântara, which is fortifled, and the chief place of the knights of that name, is a celebrated stone bridge over the Tagus, built by the Romans in the time of Trajan. This town was taken by Lord Gahvay in 1706. Albuquerque. Albuquerque, on the frontiers of Portugal, has a strong castle ; and, what at the same time is singular, has a trade in woollen cloths. Badtjos. Badajos, the capital of the province, is also a frontier-town, and strongly fortifled, being little more than three leagues from the Portuguese town of Elvas. It is of course a bishop's see. It is rendered famous by a bridge built by the Romans over the Guadiana, on which the Portu- guese were defeated in 16*6*1. Here are indeed numerous monuments of the Romans wortby consideration, though not often so acccptable as in other parts of Spain. At the distance, however, of thirteen leagues is a strong Meridí. town, originally built by that people, Merida, where are several fine remains of antiquity, particularly a MILITART VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. ^79

K triumpbal arch and a nable bridge over the Gua- *2° n** diana. It is surrounded by a fertile plain of con- ^^^f siderable extent. Approacliing to the soutbern frontier of Estre- n madura and Andalusia, Medina and Zafra must be Zafr^ ** noticed; the íirst at the foot of a mountain íifteen leagues from Badajos; the other in a similar situation near the Guadaxiera. The latter has a castle. There is little more that can illustratc the latter provinces, in which so little intcrest prevails, considered without reference to immediate circumstances, notwithstanding their importancc as the frontier against Portugal and the intervening road to the capital of Spain. We are now arrived on the opposite side of the Sierra Morena to that at which we quitted the chain sierra Morcaa. of mountains in Andalusia, for the purpose of proceeding through Seville and eastward. And nothing* remains on them to add to the celebrity derived from heing the scene of the feats of the popular hero of Cervantes, and the site of many a

* Unless indeed the remarkable drought in this quaríer of the seventeenth century, when it is said no rain fell on the Sierra Morena for fourteen years, in consequence of which ali the springs • dried up, the forests caught fire, and the earth split in large clifTs, which still remain open. 280 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

B??pKií dreadful incident arisiog out of the desperate con- ^-^>p*^' flicts between the Christians and Moors. Eitrr madura. sisetch of Sp*. The civil economy of Spain would seem impe- nish Coiuraercc, . &* rioiisly to demand something towards a detail of its commercial institutes: yet what shall be said in this respect on the com mercê of a country, the very insurance-companies of which, at the conclusion of the last century, werc still, instead of the * rationale of mathematical calculations, under the patronage of particular representatives of St. Ramon of Pennaforte, our Lady of Mercy, &c. &c. whose very nanies were enrolled in the list of members, and to whom shares of profits were scrupulously paid; while in consequence, insurances which no other nation woukl undertake were made and lost;* and which has even very lately continued the principie. It may however briefly be observed, that the commerceof Spain divides itself into three branches; the exporlation of the productions of its European territory, that of its South American productions, and its importations from the different countries of Europe. Spain furnishes to Europe wool, wine, oil, fruit,

* Such as lhose or fifty per cent. on foreign East Indiamen, at tlte momcnt when lhey were entering English ports, 8tc. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 281 salt, kali, &c. Its wool, consisting of seven diífer- BOOK i. 'O CHAP. II. ent sorts, is chiefly sliipped at Bilboa. The mer- ^Jc^ chants of Bilboa, Seville, &c. (who buy the wool »««e,&c. from the sheep,) are only agents of foreign dealers: the amount exported lias been called tbirty thpu- sand bales. Wine and fruit are principally sliipped from Málaga and Alicant, from the mere agency of the merchants; foreign vessels are of course almost entirely employed. Iron is exported in vast quantities through Bilboa; it contains a portion of steel, by which it is much hardened. íts exportation of oil is but confined. More salt-petre is produced in Spain than any other country in Europe. Barilla, a kind of kali, obtained from the ashes of plants in Valência and Murcia, forms an important branch of com mercê. The colonial commerce of Spain is also chiefly in CobnbiCom. tlie hands of foreigners, who send their goods to Cadiz, where they are shipped in Spanisli vessels. This forms a considerable source of revenue, but which is again decreased by frauds upon it. The goods consist of linen, besides Spanish, Frendi, Irish, Flemish, or Silesian, cloth; woollen stuffs, silks; wine, brandy, oil; paper, quills, gun-flints, marble, bar-iron, nails, steel, wire, white lead, wax, pepper, and cinnamon. These are paid for by the wealth annually brought from México and Peru by the Plate-flotillas. CAMFA1GNS IX SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

This, in the course of eleven years, ending in niai 1778> is described as amounting to 103,889,652 Cpmtttwce. piastrcs. In 1791, the importation of piastres coined in South America, from México and Peru, amountcd to 22 millions. The contraband exportation of the same coin, during the first of tliese periods, amounted to 83 millions, nonc of which passed through Spain. The following fevv details on the subject may bc acceptable.

Statemcnt of the commerce of Spanish America with the mother- country, in the year 1788.

Valu» of Spanish Yalue ©f foreign Valuc of returo* PortJ. cargocs exportcd cargoes exported from America, to America, to America.

Reais. Reais. Reais.

Seville 3,811,039 573,688 129,970 Cadiz 91,252,427 121,533,827 635,315,832 Málaga 12,752,0*5 1,347,354 11,869,524 Barcelona 29,688,392 2,083,317 35,446,496 Corunna 9,993.537 81,625,588 St. Sebastian 364,547 3,179,534 11,355,430 AlfuquesdeTorlosa . . 864,384 14,404 245,235 St. Ander 5,082,366 11,277,950 26,295,925 Gyon 61,775 1,131,992 642,091 Alicant 542,676 32,600 635,110 Palma 598,875 274,095 TheCanaries . . , . . 2,210,576 1,319,624 2,863,437 Total 158,223,039 142,494,290 804,693,733 MILITARY VIEW OF T1IE PENÍNSULA. 283

Thus the whole exportation to America in that ^f*,,1; year amounted to upwards of three hundred millions ^Ty^, " l Spanuh colouiw of reais (£6,891,485 stcrling); and the returns cfomn•ommcrcc to Europe to above eight hundred millions (£18,440,898): the latter producing a balance of £11,549,454 sterling! The regulations established in 1778 threw open this branch of commerce to the whole nation, under some restrictions; and have contributcd greatly to increase its prosperity. In that year the amount of Spanish merchandise exported to the colonies was 28,636,619 reais; and of foreign property 46,278,342 reais; making a total of 74,915,0.62 reais (£1,716,824 sterling). The returns were of the value only of 74,558,292 reais (.£1,708,627.) Hence, during the period between 1778 and 1788, the exporta had increased in a four-fold, and the returns in a ten-fold, proportion. The additional revenue resulting from this improvement was as folio ws: <£. sterling. Amount of the customs on exports and imports in 1778 154,946 Ditto, in 1788 1,270,888

Increase in ten years 1,115,942 or in abovc a seven-fold proportion. Similar causes to those which keep the colonial 284 CAMPAIONS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. commerce in a state of depenoance on foreigners CHtP. II, * ° y*^vj^ operate in paralysing the commerce of the interior »«*<*• of the kingdom, The wretched condition of the highways long rendered ali conimunication of this kind nearly irupracticable; while the extreme un- cleanliness of the inns and a want of public con- vcyances discouraged travelling. The government has at last felt the national disgrace of such a state of things, and has begun to remedy it; and the roads in the provinces of Biscay and Navarre, in the neigbbourhood of Madrid, between that capital and Cadiz, and between Aranjuez and Valência, have now received a high degree of improvement. An undertaking, however, that seenis likely to produce a still more powcrful effect in advancing internai commerce, is the formation of several fine canais: that of Arragon is equal to any thing of the kind in existence. A project is also in agitation for establishing a uniformity of coins, weights, and measures, throughout the kingdom. At present, the internai commerce is carried on by the primitive but incompetent médium of an exebange of commodities between the different provinces; chicfly of rice, oil, and com : the fine mules and asses of the country are employed in this laborious traffic. From what has been said, however, of the general unfitness or disincHnation of the Spaniards for MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 285

K L trade, an exception must be made with respect to *°A°P „ those of Catalonia, If the whole country possessed )^hc^ the same spirit of activity and industry as the peo- "*"*♦ pie of this province, Spain would soon rise to the brilliant and pre-eminent rank which her advantageous position and territorial riches ought to have obtainèd for her long since among commercial nations. Of the number of vessels which annually entcr the port of Barcelona, (between nine hundred and a thousand,) froin thrce hundred to tliFee hundred and fifty belong to the inhabitantsof that city; but at Málaga, Cadiz, or Alicant, the propórtion is far less fa vou rabie. A thin population, and a deficiency of industry, are circumstances so strictly connected, that it is not easy to determine which of them is the cause and which the effect. Yet it appears clear, in the present case, that the expulsion of the Moors and - Jews in the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, by re- moving the most active part of the people, is what has operated ever since in preventing the manufactures of Spain from keeping pace with those of the est of Europe. Spain might make ali the other nations of Europe tributary to her, by the wool manufactured within her own dominions; but the only good manufactories in this line are those esta- . blished in the new colonies and at Segóvia. Five- 286 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

and-twenty years ago neither the process of fulling nor of dying was well understood among them. Spanish Com- merce. While the govemment is thus negligent of the particular branch of industry which would be the most natural to the country, it cxpends considerable sums in formingestablishments which are brilliant indced, but of doubtful utility : of this description are the manufactory of porcelain at Buen- Retiro, and that of plate-glass at St Ildefonso; which latter is carried to a very high degree of perfection.

Principie» and The Spanish monarchy is in every sense absolute, Details of Goverument but the govemment is exercised by various tribunais. The power of the aristocracy has of late years been greatly abridged, ehiefly by the influence of the Prince of the Peace ; and the house of Me- dina Ccli, which used every ycar to send a deputa- tion to the king to reserve its right to the throne, finds it necessary now to exercise that privilege in secret. In order to diminish the local influence of the grandees, they have been ohliged, by an oríler of the court, to reside ehiefly at Madrid. As part of the same system, the Cortes, or supreme councils, which had an influence greater than the parliament of England, have been for some years abo- lished. A system of economy is to be traced in ali MI LI TA RY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 287

B the departments of the governmcnt, and manygreat c°?p* j^ offices are suffered to remain vacant. It is however g^J^J^ asserted by his enemies, that the cmolument ofm*nU these offices are enjoyecl by the favourite, who lias been declared by the king to be an integral part of the royal family, and whose obscure descent has been attempted to be veiled by tracing his anecstors to the Visigoths. The privy-council, which prepares business and arranges papeis for the council of state, or the junta, is composed of a nnmber of nobles and grandees nominated by the king. The junta itself (a sort of cabinet-council) consists of the first secretary of statc, and of three or four other ministers, whodirect every thingaccord- ing to the will of the king, or rather of the favourite. A council of war takes cognizance of the arniy, and of whatever regards military affairs. The council of Castile is the superior legal tribunal of the king's dominions at home and abroad. There are also courts of law, or, as they are called ih Spain, courts of royal audience, in Galileia-, at Seville, at Majorca, in the Canaries, at Saragossa, at Valência, and Barcelona. There are also inferior tribunais for deciding in matters of police, revenue, and private litigation. Spanish America is under the government of 288 CAMPAIONS tS SPAIN" AND PORTUGAL.

Bçn?*tu viceroys and other magistrates, appointed in Spain,

Spanish^Ty**' govern- and they* enjoy •» •» absolute anthority•* in their respec-*. «KM. tive districts. The council of the Indies is composed of a governor, four secretaries, and twenty- two other members, who reside in Spain. To them are made ali appeals relative to American affairs, and they are well qualified to decide, being generally ex-viceroys or ex-magistrates from America. The viccroyaltics of Peru and México are deemed too important to be entrusted to the same person more than threeyears, in which time, however, they amass large fortuttes. In ecclesiastical matters, the king is supreme.— He nominates ali archbishops and bishops, and even to most of the smaller beneíices. He taxes their revenues, and no papal buli can be published without his approbation. The revenues of the crown amount to five, and according to some to seven, millions sterling per aniium. " Those derived from America, in addition, are imniense, but a small portion of them reaches Spain. The king has nominally one-fifth of the produce of the mines, though scarcely any part of it enters his coffers. Iu time of war, and in press- ing exigencies, lie sequesters the greatest part of the treasures of America belonging to his subjects, to whom however they are returaed with interest J/ILITARY VJEV OT THE PENÍNSULA. 289

The Spanish finances are badly regulated, and the

public debt amounts to a prodigious sum. s^

The following remarks 011 the rural economy of Rural economy. Spain will better serve the present purpose than more recent reports, several of whieh, of great value, have appeared, both of a general and partieular description, exclusive of those vorks to whieh the breeding of Merino-sheep has given such frequeht occasion. The favour of the government, latterly extended towards different societies called Friends of their Country (Amigos dei Pais), evineed a desirc to encourage industry, and animate and improve agri- cultnre, but the progress they have hitherto made has been but very slow. A few years of vigilancô and encouragement have not been sufficient to repair the evil caused by several centuries of Indo- lence. Besides, one of the ehief obstacles vi th. whieh the zeal of tlie societies will meet for a long time to come is less the want of population, for it is proved that the population of Spain has increased ohe third withifi thesc thirty years, than the too great distance between one village and another.— Most travellers wh o have gone through the kingdom must have observed that but few lands, cxcept those at tive distance of a league or more from the cities and villages, are cultivated; and it is not VOL, i. v 290 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

possible to clear such as are more remote, since, in

some places3 there is not a single habitation in the Rurai «conomj. space 0f fourj gvej or g\Xf ]eagues. The intermediate lands seem to be sacred, and would be pro- faned by the plough or hoe, and some víllages become poor and wretched because they are too great and populous. The first eare of government ought to be to fix the limits of ali towns, villages, and hamlets; anti, instead of sufFcring them.to extend, to oblige them to separatc. Men would then cover a great space, and the waste lands would obtain a value. Spain aftbrds a proof of this in the kingdom of Valência and the Sierra Morena. -iln countries not peopled in proportion to their extent, .the economy of men and cattle should be well understood; yet it is not nncommon in Spain to see in a field of only an acre ten or twelve pair of oxçn, whichj one after the other, foliow the samefurrow, and are guided by as many labourers; ^yhilst in a neighbouring inclosure, ten or.fifteen men, arranged in the same manner as the oxen, are provided with spades, and scarcely scrape the land. Many inconveniences arise from this mode of cultivation. The first is undoubtediy that of uselessly employing too many harids; bnt the most dangerous onc is, that the earth, not being sufficiently opened, does not communicate to the plants and grato the vital principies they ought to receive from MltlTÁHY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 2-91

'it. The fogs and dews, wftich are always abun-

dant in SpaÍn,*'not pcnetrating the earth, are too Spaiilsh soon cxhalcd by the sun; the plants wither, and ^«ouomy. the ratn, if it be heavy, roots them up; the winds alone are sufficient to make considerable ravages in land so cultivated. Yet, notwithstanding the dis- advantages of this very defective mode of cultivation, it has bcen remarked, that, upon an avcrage, the harvest fumishes, in com, the subsistence of a year and a half for ali Spain. What wmld be the prodúce were ali the lands well cultivated? It may be supposed that in conseqiiencc of this abundance, were thcre a few public granaríes, there ought never to be a want of com in Spain ; yet a scarcky frequently happens in some provinces, be- canse exportation is there badly nndcrstood; bread is also much dearer there than in France. It is -tme, the Spanish peasant is unacqnainted -with the black and disgusting bread which the French 1a- -bourer'frequently eats; the whitest bread, made from the best wheat, ís éaten by every class of persons. The Castiles and Estremadura are the most fertile provinces in com, and to these especially government ought to turn its attention. Several remedies might be applied to the great sterility complained of in Spain. The first, whence a (louble advantage must be deríved, would be to plant ''trees. Travellers have the*fatigue of crossing u2 E92 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

the immense plains of Castile without meeting with the smallcst shrub. ' Most of the provinees

Raraieconomj. are we]] SUppijec| ^(j, SpringSj but these disappear ín very hot weather. Were care taken to plaat trees by the sides of rivers and rivulets, the effeet ■of the sun would be considerably lessened; and, were otliers planted in the country, rain-water would remai n longer upon the earth. The soil of the.country hetwecn Madrid and the Sierra Aíorena, and from Talavera to Badajos, has a superfícies of a foot and a half of sand, under which the earth is clayey and strong; thus nature herself has furnished upon the land what is proper to mix with it, and nothing remains to be done but to supply it with moisture; and this, as I have already observcd, might be eíFcctcd by properly sheltering the springs from the heat of the sun. When \vc rccollect that in Spain therc are upwards of a hundred and fifty rivers, six of which are largc ones, and numerous springs in the mountains, the want of moisture in the earth must appear to proceed from the indolence of the inhabitants, since the climatc of Spain, notwithstanding the great heat, is so favourable to the natural fertility of the lands, that even thosc most exposed to the sun sometimes produce a hundred-fold. One of the first reforms to be made for the benefit of agriculture in Spain should be to prohibit iriLITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. $95 BOOKI. the too-general use of mules.* The horse, consi- CHAT. «. dering his beauty only, undoubtedly deserves the spanuh . « 11 . v. Rural economj. preference; but, while we grant to the mule ali tne superiority of strength and frugality supposed in. him, his incapability of multiplying bis species ought to be decisive for his exclusion. Ignorance of the art of agriculture, and an ill-judged luxury, alonc support the natioual prejudice in favour of mules, most of which are brought from other countries at an extravagant price. If, in some parts of Spain, the horse be not strong enough to support the climate in those places, let tbe use of mules be continued; but, wherever horses can be safely employed, they seem, under every point of view, to merit a preference. The grcat number of bulis, Hkewise, which are kept in indolence, and at a great expense to the public, to he destroyed for a cruel amusement, ought to be diminished. If the people be so at» tached to bull-fights as not to be satisíied without them, the number of victims migbt be reduced; and, insteadof twenty bulis,which in those butcher-

* A aet of horses are seldom «cen in that kingdom. Notwith- standing the prohibition, which has been several times renewed, of being drawn by mules, or making any use of them in travelling, none but women and eeclesiástica being exemptfrom the Iaw,tho old custom has constantly prevailed. These prohibitions were made because the breed of horses bogan to bo lost 294 CAMPAIGKS tN. SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

ingdiversions are tom to pieces alive,.the sacrifice . of .four. should be suflicient. Acrriciilture would Spamsh ° Ruiai cconorojr, gajn considerably by such a rcfomn, 3Mr. Bowles, who, in bis Introduction to the Na- tural History and Geography of Spain, gives. the most satisfactory proofs tiiat he lias well examined the. productions of that kingdom, assures us, .that neitlier Bclon or Ilauwolf mention any plantiathe environs of Jerusalém wlnch hc has.not .found in thÍ3 country. . I do not think it altogetlier useless togive.some idea of certain plants, trees, and shrubs, found .in Spain. The turpentme -tree is rather common; it Js pricked bj' an insect to deposit its eggs, and. the puncture produces a gall-nnt, of the colour of coral; and, as the mit, instead of.becoming more round; lengthens out npwards of half an ineh, and takes the form of the horn of a goat, this kind of,turpen- tinc-tree is vulgarly called cormeabrà. The roots, frequently.thicker than the trunk, .produce a very hard \vood, handsomely veined,. anel. which takes in the lathe ali the forms an ar tis t wishes to give it. It is susceptible of a fine polish, and at Orihu- ela great quantities of it are made into snuff-boxes, known by the name of wood of Orihuela. But the workmen are not ingenious ; veryfew of the boxes MILITAKY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 195

I saw màdc in the country had either elegance or neatness. Spadlsh The Indian fig-tree /opuntia) is very common *«*•««»<»*• in the eastern and southern parts of Spain; and, ai- though this shrub be originally from the Iridies, it gróws.every where withoutcultivation, in the openings of the rocks, even where it scarcely finds earth enon

B K 1, c^A°p u wcight, at the top of the tree. They are less swect ^

Raraieconomj. j anj of opinion depends in part oii the preparation of the latter, which corrects the liusk of the fruit, naturally rather sour. • Therc are several kinds of oak in Spain. ■ The ilexacideata coceiglanâijera is that under the priekly leàves of which is found the kermes, or thè worm known by the name of the gall-insect, used in dying scariet, and which was very .valuable. to the antients; but the use of it is now less frequent on account of the abundance of the insect .called cochineal, brought from Ameriea. This kind of .oak is called ín Spanish voscoxa. . ,The$w£er, or akornoque, is the kind of oak which produces cork; its acorns are bitter. Every four years it is despoiled of its bark as farás the euticle; Wcre this injurèd the tree would decay. After this operation the tree produces a kind of liquor which congeals in.the air, and in four or.five years forms the new cork. - > ■,..<. . .*» - The real oak, called in Spanish encinãj is a very /high tree, with a thick toliage, and wood extremely nard: the roots are more porous and flexible. This oak produces very large acorns of an oblong shape, and so palatable, that they are eaten in the manner •of ehesnuts. There is a varíety of this kind of oak, the leaves of wbich are smooth and glittering, but WILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 297 the acorns are neither so large nor so good as th ase of the former. ■ ^~i& The northern mountains of Spain produce white H«I«OHW. oak, very fit for ship-building; theleaf is very broad and indented, and falis iti winter. This trèe produces bitter açoras. • The beech also gròws in the northern provinces, upon the tops of the mountains, where the oak cannot support itself; it grows in the plains likewise, and produces fruit of a triangular form. . The walnut-treê is common enough in some parts of Spain. It is astonishing that this tree has not been planted in other parts of the kingdom, wherc it would thrive extremely well. J -' Most of the olive-trees are, if I may so say, nothing but bark; this arises from the bad method of planting them, whieh consists .in taking a branch from the tree,' splitting it into four parts at one end, and putting it into the earth, so that the water and heat rot the inside. Spain produces in general an abundancc of oil; but for the most part it hás a bad smell, and is detestable to the taste, whilst it might be rendered às good aa that of the southern provinces of France. • . Andalusia abounds with olive-trees; those of Lu- cena and the environs produce a round little olivc of a good quality for making oil. The olives of 29$ CAMPAIGNS Iff SPAIN AND PORTUGAL

^n^Kií!" Scvillc are as large as a pigeon's egg, and are ex-* y*00y^~/ ccllent for preservinc;. iwccoriomy. . The apple-treè in Biscay seems to be in its natural eli mate; the' spccies ofitr iri tlns province are exeeedingly numerousi ■• Thererinetsarecómmon, with a little varie ty amongst them.:* the cherry-trce grows to thc heigbt of ao elm: • the peáehes are delicious: and hvthe.same province are found theifour bcst kinds of pear. ••**:♦.' ,» > The peòple of Valência pretend that their silk'i$ fincr/lighter,. and- more smooth, than thàt of IMíir- cia; because they lop their mulberry-íreés eyéry two years,' and' the* Mufcians lop .theirs only bnee iri thrce years, which'makes the' leaf stroriger. and inore sour. But to.this may bé'opposed the èx- anípfe of:tbe" inbabitants of Granada,, whó nevêr 'lop their trées, and mayjustly boast of producing the finest and smoothcst silk in Spain. The cultir vatioriof the mulberry-tree iri tliekingdom, of Gra- nada* is indisputably the best.r\ . . ■- i, ., hi ': i >» ' Thev kingdom .of iMúrcia con tatus forests of orarige and lemoh trees, and ali other fruits of thia kihd are fòund there.inMhe greatest abundance.-rr The oranges of Mureia. are in general larger" and •Weeter than thosc ,-òf the .kingdom of .Valência, -Cataloniá, and the. restbf.Spain. • • i '. <>. •, '*•» The plarit the Spaniards. call the pito js the; aloé MILITÀItY VIEV/ OF'THE PENÍNSULA. %99 of America. > Tho kind of grass they call esparta is CIJ AP< 1I#* very common, for it-covos a great part of Spain. ^^^^ It serves- to .make, ropes, mats, and several useful »«'-leMW"JC- articles. Mr. Bowles says hc counted upwards of forty methods of employing it. A few ycarssjnce the Spaniards found the means of spinning this plantv'like hcmp or flax, and making it into very fine linen.« Charles III. rewarded the person who made this truly valuable discovery, and granted him several privíleges. t The Spaniards esteem the saífron which grows in La Mancha.to.be the best in Europe. AU the provinces of Spain produce more or less hcmp and flax;. but there are distriets more favourable to them than others, as Murcia to flax, and Arragon to hetnp. « * (. * The cotton-plant is not uncommon in Valência, and.Jt-seems extremely surprising the inhabitants should now neglect it, as it was formerly cultivated there wíth great suecess r. t Along the coast from Málaga to Gibraltar, there are upwards of twelve manufactories of sugar; the little village of Mòtril contaíns four, which have existed from time immemorial; and, accordíng to tradition, Spain is indebted to the Moors for 'the sugar-cane,- and the manner of preparing it. This cultivation -might hrthat kingdom be more extenv sive; the same distriets are.proper for ,the ananás 300 CAMPAIGN& IX.SV4.IK AND PORTUGAL-

BOOK 1 ai$0 aná many other plants and frutt-trees of Ame- CKAF. II. ' J l - v -^v^**-' rica. • Spainl also produet» cinnarnon, but ít nas Spaniah r * . Rural «onomy. neither the taste nor balsamic ílavour 01 that brougnt us by the Dutch: « >] ' Spain has received from nature a climate the most favourable to every kind of tultivátion,' and will become onèof the most flourishing countries of Europe, whenever she shall remedy certain errors and abuses which.have hitherto proved most: destruetive both to population and industry. * \ i The follówing estimates of a lecent date, formed ©n! tbc central position of Toledo, will supply thfe only details on this subject., . (»1 The province to which they relate is but roode- rateiy fertile, and partly mountainous. It produces a surplus of com, which chiefly supplies Madrid. Such is the $9it!taeie,-\t& valueand surplus. •t € Annaal Average V»ln©in Producc Price. Real* de Vellon. ■Í,Í,J ' Fanegas. *'" Rea!Í: Wheat 1,800,000 44 7J,20O,QO0 Barley ...... '1,472,000 IS 27,968,000 Hye 380,000 26 7,280,000 Oats .' 146,000 14 .2,044,000 , Surplus of cora: •,-+ r • • ' B**ls. 186,000 fanegas of wheat, worth .... 8,184,000 70,000 —barley , . 1,330,000 Oats to thervaluc of about ;►.,...... 20,000

Total value ófcorn exported ...... 9,534,000 MUI*ARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA.» 301

Faaeeu. ReoH.Beal»dcVeU«i flOOK I. ° CttAP. II. Greypeas, of which 1-5th- *v^v^^^ is cxportcd 40.000 80 3,200,000 A££UU««I 1 Details. Vetches 39,000 25 975,000 Biack yetches 3,000 . 24. . 72,000 Juijas, or square peas . .. . 2,000 . 30. 60,000 Titos, a kind of yellow peas. 8,000 28 . 224,000 Guisantes, anotherkind not mucli known 2,500 34 85,000 Rapeseed . . . 600 $5. 15,000 Litiseed 700 39 27,300 *niseed . . .' 500 56* 28,000 Cummin 400 48 19,200 Saffron 1,0001b. 86 86,000 Total value 4,791,500

Vegetables appear to be not much cultívated, especially for a province so near to Madrid.

Faaega$, Reais. RealJ de Vellon Lentíls 7,000 28 196,000 Beans 10,500 29 304,500 French beans .... 2,000 $5 70,000 Potatoes 70,000 arrobas 3 210,000 Other vegetables, especially exceli ent asparagus 50,000 4 200,000

Total value ...... V ..'. .-• 980,500 302 CAMPAIGNSINSPAIN AND PORTUGAL

*° °Kiu Neithér is fruitin greater abundance, as may be s^y^^ seen b? tlíe foUowing statement: Agricultural DctaiJj. Arrobas. Reais. ' Cherries 17,500 35,000 Ajpricots ...... ^ -8,000 64,000 Plums 40,000 200,000 Figs 2,000 • 36,000 Chesnuts 20,000 fanegas 140,000 Walnuts 2,000 -50,000 t ... ' Total value 525,000

The produce of the olive is on the othcr hand considerable: that tree thrives much better in this province than in the environs of Madrid, which from the too-elevated situation is subject to more intense frosts. i

Arrobas • Real* - Re»!s. ' Olive-oil .... 170,000 . -at40 6,800,000 Of which are exported .... 20,000 800,000 Olives 25,000 fanegas, at 20 500,000

The vineyardsare equally important; they sometimes yield very pleasant wjn.es, but a much greater .MILITARY VTEW.OF THE PENÍNSULA.' 303 quantity of those of La Mancha is consuméd at ^fy*,*' Madrid. , • > • . - >-"^^^

Arrobas. Real». • Reais. Yiiiuge, &c. Grapes 2,000 at 5 60,000 Wine" .' 1,700,000 at- 7 11,900,000 Vincgar . .' • 29,000 at 6 . 174,000 Spirits* * 21,000 atl6. SS6,000

Total value of the produce of the vine 12,470,000

t . ♦ '• About 200,000 arrobas of wine are exported, and fetch the sum of 1,400,000 reais —Among the primary materiais used in manufactures are distinguished the following:

Real». Flax, 5,000 arrobas, õf the value-of . . 530,000 Hemp, 20,000 arrobas . '. '. 740,000 Rushes, called esparta, 12,000 bundlcs . 12,000 Silk, 25,000 arrobas 1,550,000

In 1787, therewere uneultivated spots on which upwards of 86,000 mulberry-trees might have been planted.

Reais, Soda and barilla, 270,000 arrobas, of the .value of 1,500,000 Madder and woad, a small quantity. Sumacb, 26,000 arrobas ...... 104,000 304 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUOAL.

BOOK i. Cattle constitutes an essential branch of thc cx- CHAF. II. _ \*f*v***J portations of this province, as appears irem thean- Spsín. DetaiísofCr». nexed account: «ing Stock. Arrobas. • ReiJs. Het>!s. Wool 16,000 i at 60 o60,000 Rams ...... 3,000 head, at 42 126,000 Lambs 10,000 . at . 22 440,000 Swine . : 10,200 at 61 622,200 Mules 600 at 900 540,000 Foals ...... 150 at 160 24,000 Young asses ... 400 'at 120 18,000 Calves 6,000 at 112 672,000

Total valueofthesearticles .... 3,432,000

Tbc produce of cheese, about 10,000 arrobas, amounts to 28,000 reais, but it does not appear tbat any is exported. The sheep yield 80,000 arrobas of wool, of the value of 4,800,000 reais. Thte bees supply 4,000 arrobas of honey, valued at 128,000 reais, and 400 arrobas of wax, worth 72,000 reais. Wc bave very few accurate observations on the degrees of heat and cold to which tbe thefmome- ter rtses ia tbe diíFerent latitudes of Spain, as well as on the other circumstances relattve to tbe clima te of tbc country. Thc foliowing particulars, however, are given on good authority. Heavy rains are rare at Toledo, but drougbts are UrLITAllY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 305

3 K frequent. Rain comes with the west and south- Í,?A°. I'* west winds, but is scldom brought by the east or ^ú?"**^- south. The north wind is always dry, thoughyery Ctíuwte* humid in Astúrias and Biscay. . The iains are but of short continuance; they begin about the middle of Oetober, and last five or six days, aftér which the air is serene till the middle of December, when a fortnighfs rain sueceeds. The frost sets in with the year: the snow se)dom lies above twenty-four hours at Toledo; but at Madrid, where it is more abundant, it sometimes remains several days. • M. Guilleman has observed Reaumur's thermometer as low as fíve degrees at Toledo; at Madrid he has seen it fali to seven degrees; at Beurrit, near Pa- lencia, in latitude 42 degrees, he has seen it at 94 degrees; and atPampeluna, in latitude 43 degrees, and at the foot of the Pyrenees, he has observed it at 94. At Toledo the almond-tree blossoms in the middle of February, and the apricot the beginning of March. The hot season commences with the month of July; not a cloud is then to be seen, and thunder-storms, though common in May and June, are then very rare. At sun-rise the thermometer stands at from thirteen to nineteen degrees. Ac- cording to Don Juan, the greatest heat at Madrid is 26 degrees, and the average temperature of the month of July does not exceed 20.

VOL» 1. x •310 .CAMPAIGNS' IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

'"«fp^iií' The present observátions on this subject- being v-*--v~«*^> necessarily cónfihed tó a láricl-force, it niay iust bc w 1me2e °ld premisedj in.respeçt to a cbimtry the navy of.\vhich has distinguisbed itsclf, thai. it. consisted iii"1789 of',5S shipsof theliné and 230 of other sizes,'dis- Jtríbuted ãmong the harboursiof.GaiHz, Garthagena, and Ferroa 4be'latteróf.whi

taining the whólc.* 1 . \r,y \ ui. í ■ . f i \<<. > ■i Àround the whole.coast of Spain,âre :st;ationéd sentries from mile to mile;. wi th' liglíts andappara- tus, by meáns of which assistanee may be afFordéd to shipwreeked marincrs, and an ialarríi, spre&d óB

evèry side in case ofinvasiòn. > ■■ rt - The Spanish afmy has been supposed. to cxist chiefly on paper; It seems accòrding to the official rcturns>to'hâvébeèn estimated át 103,437 men in 1789; and; iri 1794, 114,000; but, instead of this imaginary incrèase,' it does not appèar to havé ap- próached' evcivthe smaller nuraber at' a nrocli láter date. '''•'' i *.f •' • •< « • ' Its charactér.is dppreeiáted in'a récént Erench work vvhich-fias been much accredited;- and.máy thercfore furnish thé best materiais for this report/f -The Spanish army bearsátróng.marks dfithe • ' • • ,-r i,l u» «1 ■-.? %" ! i * Minute details of the navy, and k.is.bclicved the best, will be found in Bourgoing. , ' . f Caracteres des Armécs Européenncs, &c. MILITARY VIEW O* TI1E PENÍNSULA. 507 weakness and'vices of íts government: a Spanish regimerit, when in line with another, or otberwise sjjjj^am placed beside it, in any serviee whatever, loòks Hke í^eíold an assemblag-e of beargars, There are battalions in the French army as ill-equippecl as they are, bnt tlie stature and personal 'appearance of the latter will always give theni an air of distinction. Tliese beg- gars are nevertbcless the descendants of those who once dominecred over Europe, and conqnered Afri- ea; they might still return to what they were, if they had the same leaders. The Spaniards are, perliaps, indebted to thcir ignorance for having preserved ilieir national character, in spite of their change of sovcreigns and the eorruption of thcir government; they havc the same fund of nobleness of thought, pride, and courage. As to military matters, the Spaniards are still as backward as in the year 1740. Their military scr- vicè lias reniained stationary from that period; their manocuvres and regulationsare what those ofothers were sixty years ago. Their troops are neither discipliriéd nor instrúcted, Their pay is very irregular, and their maintenànee and mien detestable; with the exception of the Spanish'and Walloon Gnards. The Spaniards are natnrally slow and in- dolent, but capable of retaining and continuing the practice of any movement that is inipressed upon their minds: there are no troops moresoher, pk- x 2 SOS CAMPATGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

tient of hardships, and submissive to their officers.

Spanijn army It is not from the care which thc latter take of e ld tne,r sol( n-£cu.irgitucu. ° fors that they acquirc their affectiom— The officers takc no trouble about them; for the soldiers havc nothing to do but with the serjeant- major, lie is the person who dirccts thc company: their constancy and natural conrage are the same as in thc wars of Italy and Flanders; but disorder and negligence render these great military qualities useless. The Spaniards, during the war in which.they en- gagcd against the Frendi, experienccd a mixture of success and dcfcat; they liad obtained consider- ableadvantages, when the peaceput a stop to them. Itmayjustly be said that these advantagcs wcre owing to an instinctive valour, and to thc good spirit of the nation; thc proof of this is secn in the conduct of the most raw of their militia regiments, which though cornposed almost cntirely of boys, ahvays «lisplaycd the greatcst degrcc of couragc.— They brought their national spirit with them, and had not, as yct, becn corrupted by thc bad examplc and loose conduct of their officers. In our survcy of the Spanish troops, we cannot but admire their composition, since they havc becn ablc to withstaud the Frendi, in spite of lhe ignorance and negligence of their officers, and ali the vices of their military system. Thc misery of the Spanish soldiery forces MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA, 309

them into sccnes of disorder and rapine. During a CHAF U; siege, they have been known to destroy the trenches ^T^f and the works that covered them, in ordcr to steal ^J00" the earth-bags anc! sell them fbr a few pence. The phlegmatic character of the Spauiards, which prevenis tbeir passíons from being readily set on fire, keeps them, when once excited, in a longer state of duration. To see the dejected and rueful countenance of a Spanish regíment as it marches silently into action, one would suppose it to be the effect of fear, when in fact it is nothing but the habitual disposition of the individuais. As the Spanish soldier is not animated either by example or recompence, lie lias greater merit in acting well than ali other soldiers. It must be evident that he is induced to act well from national spirit, and a natural and happy disposition for war. The pcople of several provinces in Spain are singularly proper for a war of stratagem, and for contests among mountains. The Miqueletti were famous in this species of warfare, and are still well calculated to composc excellent regular troops, or light infantry. ' Their cavalry was in great repute during the wars of Spain and Italy. Their horses and horsemeu possess the same properties; their mien is superior to that of the infantry, but as military science lias' not made the same progress among them as in other 306 CAMPA1GNS IN SPA1N AN|>. PORTUGAL.

B I C°A°I,^1I ; nations, they are still inferior on*this hcad to the w»v^^/ eavalry of others. The kiud of horses in use among regimen. them is ratherthat of the dragoons and hussars than of the heavy horsc; hut activity and speed being the principal qualities of eavalry, the Spa* qiards are moçe suscepttble of these qualities in their own country than elsewhcre; because the ehange of-. clima te. and diíference of nourishment. aífect lheir horses. As to the men in general, they are as capable of serving in warin countries as in those of a more northern dircetion ; while the inhabitants. of the north dceay and perish in warm climates. The Spanish cannoncers have as mu eh address as those in other services, as well as an cqual degree of coolness and firmness; but the listlessness and ignorance which pervade ali parts of their administration (although the eannoneers are as good in Spain as elsewhcre) prevent the corps of artillery a,nd engineers from making any progress. The artillery is clumsy, heavy, and badly kept up. pew of the officers in the Spanish service are in their proper places. The court, not having many solid favours to bestow, gives military rank to those who are importunate; these imaginary promotions are highly improper. The person who holds the rank of major, or of lieutenant-colonel, does not, \yithout repugnanec, perform the service ofeaptain; he is naturally indueed to arrõgate to himself the. MICITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. Sll- prerogatives of a superior rank, and to neglect the ®5£^J; duties of his real situátion.* From this practice >-*rv~^/ * bpum.sh nrmy must result sreat confuslon in thc serviee, and pre-. «ndenheow «^ * regimen. tcnsions without end; they cannot liave the same limits as in a serviee where there are rione but efFeetive situations, and .where • the appointments. aredecided' by rotation and lengrh òf serviee; it happens" somctimes - that an offieer who elaims the rank òf major obtains that'of Heutenant-cólon el, because an officioits clerk at 'tlicivar-office,i after making his rcsearches, discovcrs examples i fa- vourahle to those whose jntercsthe wishes to advance. "The regular promotion is vcry slow, and an offieer who has no interest at court must expect to moul- der away in subaltern commissions.. The Spanish army is capable of heing brought to excellence sooner and more easily than many others, beeause ít possesses.in itself eourage, high points of honour, a spirit of subordination, and firmness in nndergo- ing hardships; at prcsent it is cvery where iri an evident state of inferiority, that is calculated to humiliate a nation, at oncc brave, haughty, andna- turally fitted for war.

J 312 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

EOOKL »j;he following sketch of the fornis of adminis- 0 CUáT. II. . ... ^—~Y^*^ tcrmc the governmcnt under thc old regimen will Sletch of the ° ° . formtoradmmi. usefully concludc thc details of the present cliap- str»tion of go- vcrumcnt, *„r. The three provinccs of Biscay, Navarre, under the title of kingdom, and the Astúrias under. that of principality, form separate states, which have neither custom-houses, intendants, nor scarcely any thingeonnccted with the collection of taxes. With respect to this branch of the administration, thc rcst of the monarehy is divided into twenty- two provinces for.the crown of Castile, and four for the crown of Arragon. These twcnty-six provinces ditTer greatly from each other in point of extent, since the whole of Catalonia, forming part of the kingdom of Arragon, is considered only as, a single province, while. some other province of the crown of Castile .is perhaps only ten or twelve leagues in any of its di- mensions; these twenty-six provinces .have each an intendant, and may be comparcd with much propriety to our antient gcneralships. . The twenty-two provinces of the crown of Castile are thc kingdom ofGalicia, thc provinces of Burgos, Leon, Zamora, Salamanca, Estrema- dura, Falência, Valladolid, Segóvia, Ávila, Toro, Toledo, La Mancha, Mureia, Guadalaxara, Cu- MXLITARV VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 313

J enca, Soria, and Madrid; lastly, Andalusia, com- J.°°p^1í; prising four of these provinces, still digniflcd with J^**^. the name of kinçdoms, as ín the time of the Moors. «t»»«K*°f e°- viz. the kingdoms of Seville, Córdova, Jaen, and Granada. The four provinces of the crown of Arragoii are the kingdom of Arragon, the kingdom of Valen-. cia, the principality of Catalonia, and the kingdom of Majorca. These are not the only divisions of Spain. It is is also separated into thirteen military governments, twelve of which have chiefs, who take the titlc of captains-general of the province. The governor of Na varre alone has the title of viceroy. Besides ali these, Spain is divided into dioceses, which have difTerent limits from 'the provinces, and into the jurisdictions of civil tribunais, as will be afterwards explained. , The chief of ali these divisions, however, although it does not include the whole of the monarchy, is that which separates Spain into provinces of the crown of Castile and provinces of the crown of Arragon; two great portions, differing from each other with respect to their interior administration, aad the form of levying the taxes. This distinction is as antient as the period when Castile and Arragon were uuited by the marriage of Isabel la with Ferdinand the Catholic. It is, aocording to 314 CAMP.AIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

*?*?.*J' *'"-8 §eneval division, that thc diputados de los apanish^^yT^ aomini- remos, -* the feeble remains of the Cortes, are chio- itratioQofgo. sen> AU thc provinees of the crown of CastilcV collec.tively, nominate six; Catalonia ànd Ma- jorca one; and the kingdoms of Valência and Ar«* ragon name thc eighth. The deputies sit for six years ohly, when a new nominâtionitakes place.' Ali íhat/they enjoy of their primitive rights is,* that they are members of the Council. of Finan- cçs, through whicb the soverèign makes known to, the natjon.the necessity of laying on a new im- post;. and the consent these deputies are sopposed to give.to the royal resolution is a shadow of tbò consent òf the; Cortes, without which formerly t;he taxes could not'be"increascd. It is obvíous how.. feeble a barrier is opposcd to lhe powcr of the crown in this handful of citizens,. without personal dignity or consideratiòn, who are,besides^ in expectatíon of advancement fromthe ministry, and, after ali; représent only a smàll portionof the

people. i. ^ • .- . ,-, ..i. il*i ti u ,The fprovinces of Biscay and Navárre, which have peculiar states and privileges, • also,: on sonte occàsions, send deputies to court, but they do not form part of the diputados de, los reytiosj and their constituents can fix as tliey please the term and object òf their temporary mission. . •> . -. ■ It -\vili* thug appear.how. little the authority of >riMTAIlY. YIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 315 the king ofSpaiji is limited: The councils are tbe BOOK L * OIIAP, II. organs ofhis pléasure, and the deposítaríesr of the ^^-v^*«*-f # Spanish admioi- iaws emanating from .him by the, aprencv of his slrationof s°- mimsters; and, cluring the greatcst part of Iast century, thesc havc been the.only persons whom he lias deigned to consult. It is customary for him to.transact business witli eacli of them individually. In arduous circumstances he assembles theni in junta, • in order to liave the benefit of their joint opinions.—Prcvious'to 1718, their influence had been counterbalanced by the Council of State; at this period, the ambitious Alberoni thought he could rid himselfof an inconvenient check. The Council of State continued to be the most-distinguished body in the nation, but ceased tcassemblc. The office of Councillor of State, from that time, became only an honourary and lu- crative situatíon, which scrved as a recompense for long or cminent servjces, and it was commonly conferred, in the course of a few years, on those who had fílled offices in the administra tion.- But in the month of February, 1792, a few days after my arrival at Aranjuez, count Florida Blanca, who had long been on bad terms with the queen, and who bad been so injudicious or so haughty as to neglect the young Duke de la Àlcudia, whose influence with the royal pair was rapidly increasing; Florida Blanca, whose thoughtless audacity 316 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL

ír°*íK!ft prccJpitatcd bis country into a war, witbout a mo- v > >-T "'*r tive or cvcn a speciousl pretence, having been sud- Spaiijsh admuu- * m Mraíion»fg

"»***' At present thc Council of State is composed òf v--r ; Spanisnc ^*^ admuu-' thirty-severrJ members,' twelve of whom are > absent stratioaofgo from Madrid for various reasons. Elevert otlíer distinguished individuais, who in general árè likewise absent, without forming part of thc' council, enjoy its hbnoiirs, as theyare called : but these arè limited to the mere title of Èxcellency. The title of Councillòr ôf State, now reduced tò a mere honouràry distinction, even with thosc who enjoy it in thè fullest cxtent, is the highest favour that can be grãnted by a king of Spain. Personal merit, long services in the diplomatic or other mi- nisterial departments, werc once thc only recorti- mendations to this dignity; but within thêse few years it has been conferred, as a matter of eourse, upon thc ministers of state. The Spanish ministcrs are stx in numbcr: 1. Thc Minister for Forcign Affairs was always considered as the prime minister; he always bears the title of First Secretary of State. % The Minister at War possesses but a limited authority; he presides, indccd, o ver thè council of war, but it is rather a court of justice thah a board of administration; and the inspectors of thè infantry, the cavalry, the dragoons, and the provincial militia, severally manage the aftairs of the corps entrusted to their administration. The * UXUTARY VIEW OF THE PEJÍINSUIA. J 319 ministcr of War merely presénts their rcports to the *°a?*t£

KlUg...... Spaniíh ad raiai- 3. The Minister of thc» Aíarinc has nó coadjutors. '%££*- He appoirits the heads of the threc departments of tlie marine, the inspectors of the navy, súbject to the approbatron of the king. The regtdations for the naval'department, drawn up by him, have oc- casioh only fér the sanction of the sovercign. 4.' The àlínisterof Finance ought, properly speaking, to be linder the controul of tlie superintendant- general of the íinances, but the twp offices were some time agounited, their separation liaving been fouritl to impçde the mensures of government, without producing any real advantage.-Charles III. hád threc ministers of finance during" his reign; Sqúilaci, who was disgraced in consequence of some popular diâconterits, was sueceeded by Musquiz, and Lerena, both óf whom died in officc. It is unnecessary to mention that the financial department of Spain was uniformly well condueted under tbese three ministers';'but would they have derived any advantage froin a superintendant? The board òf finance áppeafs bnt a féeble barrier against the acts of the miríister'of. this department. : The place of president/or.governor,' has long been filled by this officer himself, and is at present held by an unclc to the Prince of the Peaçe. 320 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL,

B 5 Tlie CH£.V - Minister of thc Indies had formerly the síSCZhí most extens've department in the government under vérmuení5** his COHtrouli thc whole civil, military, ecclesiastical, and financial, government ofSpanish America was cxclusivcly entrusted to him; and most assu- rcdly there never was a minister in the politicai world whose influence was more powerful; the immense regions between the Gulph of Califórnia and the Straits of Magellan acknowledged his jurisdiction. Formerly the Council of the Indies was the only check upon this minister, but within thesc few years the presidency of the council and the placc of minister of the Indies have been held by the same person. Charles IV. continued the council of thc Indies as it had existcd since the conquest of America, but he divided the ofiice of minister of thc Indies ainong the five other ministers. The greatest share in this distribution fel! to the lot of the Minister of Mercy and Justice, 6. The minister last mentioned has always condueted whatever relates to the magistracy and thc ecclesiastical aífairs of Spain, and since the func- tions of the minister of the Indies have been transferred to several individuais, the Minister of Mercy and Justice has superintended the magiste- rial and ecclesiastical departments of South Ame- ÍÍILITART VIEW OP TIIETEXINSULA." '321 rica also. His authority in Europe is circum- B00K 1- J * CHAP. It. V , / scrihccl by" the °grand cbamber of the Council of Spasnsh<, -TT adnuin-"^'. Castile, and the Council of the Indies opcrates sirationof «- ' l vcniroent, e as a check upon bis administration of Spanish affairs.

VOL. /. 322 CAMPAIGN8 IN 5PAIN AND PORTUGAL.

CHAP. ni.

MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA CONTINUED.

PORTUGAL.—Topograp/rical Notices.—The Pro- vinces.—Lisbon. — Post-Roads, §c. — Manners and Customs.—Civil Economy.—Rural Econo- my.—Military Economy. — Character of the Portuguese Armies.

THE península generally has been described in the slíght sketch of its antient history, with which Portugal. the second chupter commenced. As it is, Portugal is divided into six provinces, three of which form the department of the north: Entre Douro e Minho (between the rivers Douro and Minho); Traz os Montes (behind the mountains); and Beira: the other threc forming the sou- them department,—Estremadura, Alentejo, (beyond the river Tagus,) and the (antient) kingdom of Algarve. The population of these provinces, which, though superior to that of Spain, is not proportioned to MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 323 its extent, fertility, and clima te, is generally es- timatcd as foi lo ws: Portugal.

Entre Douro e Minho . . . 504,000 Traz os Montes ...,».. 156,000 Beira 560,000 Estremadura 660,000 • . .Alentejo 280,000 Algarve 65,000

The wholc extent of Portugal does not exceed one hundred and twcnty leagues in length, and less than fifty in breadth. The kingdom throughout is well watered by upwards of one hundred and twenty rivers, whieh traverse it in ali direetions, but ehiefly entre Douro e Minho. The plains of Alentejo, from Ourique to Al- mada,* with more than thirty rivers and nnmerous springs, is parched and barren, and subject to pes- tilenee from its marshe3 and stagnant waters, of which tlie indolence of the inhabitants preelude any remedy. Those of Beira, from Lisbon, Ley- ria, and Coimbra, to Opor to, are in a similar state. An exception is, however, to be made in favour of a part of Traz os Montes, some. portions of Beira,' the right bank of the Tagus, the tem- 324 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

tory of Lisbon; those of Sabugal, Estremoz, El- vas, and Faro. Portugal The proviaccs. The provineial cletails of Portugal are more stationary and important than those of Spain. Enlre Douro Entre Douro e Alinho, bounded on the north e Alinho. by the Spanisii province of Galicia and the river Minho; on the east by Traz os Montes, from which it is separa teci by the mountains of Santa Caterina and Geres; on the south by Beira, on the other bank of the Douro ; on the west by the oeean : its population is greater in proportion tlian any other. It is sixty mil es in length,* north and sou th; its width forty, from east to west. It lias two cities, Braga, the capital, and Oporto; and twenty six towns, or walled burghs, of whieh are Viana, Guimaraens, Ponte de Lima, Vil la de Conde, Caminha, Monção, Bauclos, and Valença. It is fertile and well watered, wilh good bridges crossing the various strearns. It produces com, wine, oil, wool, and íleece, and abounds in fish and game. Civil govcm- It is governed by three royal jurisdictions, called ment. Corregiderias, from the appellation of the chief civil magistrates, appointed by the king, and three feudal, or Ouvidorias, from the subordina te magistrates of that nanie, appointed by the lords of the districts. -' Of these, the first is Guimaraens, large and MILITARV VTEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. populous, of which the chief town is between the rivers Douro and Visela, tlirec leagues from ^J^J Pra^fl Entre Douro e ° _ Minho. This was the birth-place of Alphonsus, Henry 1. king"of Portugal, and the residenee of liis early succcssors. It nas a collegiate church, with canons, noble and rich. In the fish-markct are the remai ns of a Roman tem pie of Ceres, now a decayed church of St. James. The town is defended by an antient castlc, on an eminenee. Viana, the seat of the second corregidoria, V«M. which contains nine towns, founded by Alphon- sus III. is at the mouth of the Lima, with an barbour, formerly good, but injured by sand- banks. It is well built and agreeably situated. The entrance of the fort is defended by the castle of St. James, on a neck of land, with bastions cut in the rock. The excecdingly antient town of Ponte de P. de Lima. Lima is ncat, thongh small, at three leagues and a half distance. Of Monção, about three leagues from Valença, aioncw. on the Minho, the fortifications might be rendered respectable. Oporto, (o porto, the port,) the seat of the third Oporta. > corregidoria, claims pre-eminence next to Lisbon in porat of value, and lias constantly been iu- 326 CAMPA1GNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

crcasing its population. It is at the mouth of thc Douro, and experienccd little effect from the earth- Portugal. ' * Entre Douro e quake at Lisbon. It is open and unfortified, except two modem forts next the sea. The nver * frequently inundates the quays and lower parts of the city. Barcelo». Barcelos, the seat of the first ouvidoria, is nine niiles from Braga, is little remarkable, not even for its collegiate church. Valenç*. Valença, thc seat of the ouvidoria of Valença, Miliury foundation. founded on the river Minho by the veteran soldiers of Viriatus, was formerly regularly fortified, and commands the Spanish frontier town of Twy, in Galicia, within cannon-shot. Braga. Braga, of itsclf, formíng the third ouvidoria, is in a pleasant plain, six leagues from the sea, and is watcred by the Cavado on the north, and the Desto on the south. This was an important Roman station, and has the remains of an aqueduct, and a ruined amphitheatre. It is the see of an arch-bishop, (who re- tains the title of primate of Spain,) and was once St. Bartholomew the Martyr. The people are industrious, resolute, handsome, robust,and agile- loyal, and forni the bestof foot- soldiers. Entre Douro e Minho (says Dumourier) is exposed, in time of war, to nothing more danger- MILITA KY VIEVV OF THE PENÍNSULA, 327 ous than slight clesultory attacks on the frontiers, *^K £ which, towards Galicia, are well covered by the £^~Jp^ Minho, and cut through with innumerable defíles Entre Douro e Miabo and, impenetrable. ,, delis;, íts. peoplc, are brave,i andi - animated by a most arclent hatrcd against the Cas* til»aus. There are besides some fortresses, especially along the banks of the Minho, such as the Ve- lença, Villanova, Lapela, Mançao, and Melgasso. Many largc streams that run across the frontier, from the deep recesses of the mountains, contri* bute greatly to the strength of the country; every ri ver that waters the imier parts of the province (viz. the Lima, Neyva, Cavado, Deste, Dava, and Grisonce) dircets its course from cast to westr and constantly forms natural points of defence, and posts, which, formed to the steep mountains, must render an irruption on this side very difficult and hazardous. Ncar the source of the Lima, towards the north, the entrance is wider; hut there are also many excellent posts along the Vazzeas, viz. Tiar, Paradela, Forte da Estrica, and Portela Homem. On the east side, the province is separated from Traz os Montes by the chain of Geres, Santa Caterina, and Maram, which is very hard to pass, and very easy to defend, by breaking up the ways, making olvettis, throwing up breast-" works and redoubts; upon the whole, this pro- S2S CAMPAIGNS IX SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

víncè, though tcinpting froni its liches, is in little danger; the Spaniards have never made any grcat Portugal. i^ntrf Douro e imprcssion upon it; and so well is it calcula tcd to defend itsclf, tbat its safety is intrasted to its own mi li tia, execept two or three batallians placed in the garrison of Opor to, against lios tile attaeks. The badness of the roads, the qnantity of wood, and the abruptness of the moontains that hang over this city, inspire it with confidence of security, and, perhaps, ought ratlier to excite apprehension, if the Spaniards understood the art of making war with light troops. Tnuo»Monte». Traz os Montes, as its other name imports, is disjoined from Entre Donro c Minho by the ridee of mountains of Maram and Geres on the west. It is bounded on the north and east by the Spanish provinces of Galicia and Leon; southward is the largcr Portuguese division of Beira. It is mountainous aud dry, but fertile on the banks of the rivers. It lias three cities and fifty towns, and is divided into two corregedorias and ouvidorias. Tom de Moa- Torre de Moncorvo, the first corregedoria, con- eor»o. tains twenty-six bmghs. The town of that name is miserablc. In 1762, when the Spaniards marched to attack it, so ignorant were they of its character, that they marched with ali preparation as towards a fortified town, garrisoned by eight thousand MILITARY VIEW OF TIIE PENÍNSULA. > 32$ men ; whcn, to thcir astonishmcnt, on their arrival; ^^.J; they foiínd a poor village, defenceless, without p^J^p*^ even the scmblancc of an anny. Tm os Montei. Miranda corregidoria possesses an episcopal city Miranda, and twelve burghs, Tlie fortifications of the city of that name, which \rere in the antient style, have been several times blown up by accident, during numerous wars. It is impossible, (says Dumouriez,) to re-establish this fortress to any good purpose, as it is commanded by the heights, yet a port liere would be a great barrier against Leon, and an advantageous outlet for an invasion of Spain with light troops. Bragança, whosc ouvidoria contains a city and Bragança. twelve towns, is in a narro w plain, near the little river Fervença, three Icagucs from Galicia and Leon. It has a pretty strong castle, with antient walls, defended by sixteen towers. Ilere are manufacturers of silk, velvet, and grograra. Chaves, the most eonsidcrable town of the £!**«* ' Xlcad Quarterí. province, and head-quarters of the northern department, is entircly of Roman foundation; it was settled by Vespasian; and over the Tornega is a rcmarkable bridge, built by Trajan. Here are the ordinary remains of Roman grandeur, partieularly some very fine ba-t-hs. The fortifications are of little import, being ali commanded by eminences. From Chaves, in 176*2, the Spanish general de- Miiitarj«ror herc. 330 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

tached 3000 volunteers, as avant-couriers of the army, under thc late captain-general 0'Reilly, TraiosMonte». who was to have hecn supported by other parties. He pushed on as far as Villa Real without meeting with any resistance,—but there he learnt that the peasantry was arming and the defiles were dangerous; upon which lie turned back and made a very disordcrly retreat. At Villa Pouca, and as far as Chaves, the peasants harrassed him exceedingly, and had the glory of driving him back with loss and disgrace, thougli their number did not excced 6*00, nor had they a single military man with them. This feat was highly celebrated in Portugal, and thc particulars of it repeated with great pride. The failure in this operation occasioned the retreat of the Spanish army to Za- mora, the siege of Almeida, and ali the confusion i and blunders of the campaign. Portugal was at » that time without troops and planet-struck; had the army advanced rapidly upon Oporto it must have taken it without firing a gim. Great resources would have been found there, both in moncy, stores, and provisions, and an excellent clímate; the Spanish troops would not have perished as they did with hunger and want of accommodations; the face of affairs would have been totally changed. This province is not worth an attack in a war MILITARY VIEW.OF THE PENÍNSULA. 331

BOOK between Spain* and Portugal:O ' it is even dahger-O CBAP. III.r. ous for the Spaniards to penetrate into it, as they ^"^Y" found to their cost in the late war:—40,000 men Bei™. advanced to Chaves, Bragança, and Miranda, without magazines or provisions of any sort, and about a fourth of their nuniber died there of sickness, hunger, and want, without a single point being carried in favour of the general attack upon Portugal,

Beira fornis the largest province of the king- Bdn. dom; it is bounded by Entre Douro e Minho and Traz os Montes on the north, the Spanish provinces of Leon and Estramadura to the east, and Portugueze Estramadura and Alentejo to the south; on the west is the Atlantic. It is nearly thirty leagues in length, and thirty-five in breadth; it contains six corregidorias and two ouvidorias, the four bishoprics of Coimbra, Viseu, Guarda, and Lamego, four cities,'234 towns, and 560,000 inhabitants. The country is in some places fruitful in wheat and Yye, and abounds in game, sheep, fish, and fruit, and, in some distriets near the sea, excellent wine and oil; in others it is excessively barren. It is mountainous, which renders its climate extremely cold. It is divided, under tbe designations of upper and lower, by a lofty ridge of mountains, called the Sierra de Estreita. 332 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND POttTUGAL.

Coimbra (whose corregidória contains a city, many burghs, and a population of 150,000, per- Portugal. Beira. sons) is, as built, in 415, by Ataris, their king, on Coimbra. the banks of the Mondego, over whicii it bas a fine bridge, and within a lcague of the antient Conimbrica, where are ordinary remains of the Romans. • It is celebraied for its university, founded by Dionysius of Portugal, which lias seven profes- sorships, each for divinity, cânon law, civil lawy physic, mathematies, and nmsic, and 4000 students,

Montemoro The ouvidoria of Montemoro Velho is at thir- Velho. tecn miles distance, also on the banks of the Mondefgo. In tliis district is the iinpróving sca- port of Aveiro, in a fcrtile neighbourhood. Feira. Tbat of Feira, comprised in its town, twelve miles from Oporto, is inconsiderable unless in a canal for the transportation of grain. VíM*. ■ On the contrary, the corregidoria of Visea, situated in the centre of the province, between the Mondego and the Vonga, the antient Vicus Aquarius, bas an episcopal city, twenty-two small towns, and a population of 95,000 souls, This i& a spot sacred to the antient history of'Portugal. The city was founded, according to the best authorities, in the time of Sertorius, by the pro- cônsul D. Brutus, and called Vicentium; two .MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA.' 333

towers still retnain of Roman construction, on *°°^ f* OH AP* III*T \vhich appear the eagle, and thc namcs of Flaccus ^"""Y" and Frontinus, the lattcr of which is so dear to Beira. the antiquities of South Wales, as well as to the civil ization of that district during his command in Britain.* Here also, in the church of St. Michael, whither he flew for sanctuary, is the tomb of the unhappy Don Rodrique, last king of the Goths, with the simple inscription to that effect.t And here was born Edward I. king of Portu- ga Lamego corregidoria has an episcopal city, Lamego. thirty-three towns, and 60,000 inhabitants. - The city stands on the Douro, in a plain surrounded by mountains; it was antiently peopled by Laconians, and restored, 440 years after, by Trajan, who gave it the namc of Urbs Lama* canorum. Here is a considerablc fair for horned cattle.

. - *, Life of Frontinus, prefixed to Strategematícon, &c;

t'Hic requiescet Rudericus, • * Ultimus Rex Gothorum.

< ,r • + And, thoughlast not least, here were planted the first oranges broughtfrom China. 334 CAMFATGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

c°*?.«í" ^e corregidoria otf Pinhel fornis fifty-fivc £^"Jf""^ towns > tne àty >s not remarkable, and fortificd Beira. in the old way; but Almeida, the principal placc ■dd™** °f °f *^e district, is the strongest fortification in. Portugal;—six royal bastions of stone, and as many ravelins, (of which tliat fronting the ri ver Coa, at tbe distance of a mile, is nobly extensive, with a cavaiier comnianding the eircumjacent country,) a good ditcb, and a eovered way, form its prominent excellences. On a lofty mound, in the eentre of the town, is a eitadel remarkable for strength, with magazines, bomb-proof, and within its walls wells of water, near which is a fine spring. The population of the town is small. It is observed, by general Dumouriez, that tbe siege and surrender of th is place to tbe Spaniards, in 1?62, cost them much loss of time, provisions, and treasure, without any useful result, owing to the bad plan of the eampaign. Since the eonquest of this fortress is of no importance (as respects the real frontíer of Portugal) the conqueror of Almeida is not thereby rendered more certain of penetrating to the heart of the kingdotn. An absurd inveterate prejudice, adds the same sensible, tbough splenetie, and often eaustic, writer, urges us often to saerífiee nien and money before useíess ramparts,- merely because tbe aneestors of 1ITLITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 335 our enemies have been such systematic fools as to fortifyJ them. Portugal. The corregidoria of Guarda has an episcopal Beira. city and thirty burghs; the city stands near the 0uBrdâ- liead of the Mondego, and-at the foot of the Sierra d'Estrella, with stone walls, turreis, and a castle overlooking the plain, which commands the whole province, and is capablc of encamping 20,000 men. It is this plain which forms, according to lord Galway, the best post for the defence of Lisbon. Before it arc Sabugal, Penamacor, Castelbranco, &c. for advanccd stations; the defiles that lead frora tliese are comnianded by it. It is defended . in front by woods and swamps; its right ílank is covered by the ri ver Zêzere. Thus is it conceived ali Beira might be protected, and the towns of the Tagus and the Douro. Castelbranco corregidoria has twenty-two burghs Casteibranc». and 40,000 inhabitants. The town is situated between the Leira and the Ponçal, fifteen miles from the Tagus; it has a double wall, seven tqwers, fotir gates, and an old castle of some stretigth. Idanha a Nova (New Idanha) is a burgh so idanha. rich and abounding in provisions that a powerful Spanish army was supplied by it alone for a month. Penamacor, on an eminence, twelve leagues Penam»cor. 335 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND F0RTUGAÍ.

no OK i. from Almeida, on the Spanish boundaries, has á CH AP. III. ' ^-*^v-^*»^ castle which cominanrls to great advantage the Portugal. & ° Beira. whole range from Castelbranco to the Coa; its fine position, liowever, had not, in 1766, becn íniproved by any works, and it is at least doubtful whether th is can yet be said. Rcmarksof M. ' The conquest of Beira, says general Dnmouriez, Dumouricz on . , _ tw$importam can only be enectcd througlit rortuguese .Lstrema- proviocc. . . dura, and the piam of Lema. JO any enemy, marching from the Tagus towards Coimbra, the province becomes an easy pre)', as its natural dc- fence of monntains, ravines, and defilcs, which guard the frontier, are by this line of niarch turned and rendered useless. A passage along the banks of the Tagus is easily forced, for there the walls and fortresses are in a state of neglect and min. • The Portnguesc, though guided in general by very erroneous principies in their wars with Spain, ' "* seem, liowever, to liave blinded their enemies as to the real point of attack;—indeed, to ali appearance, they themselves are cornpletely ignorant of it, for they are now working, at amost enor- mous expense and great activity, at the repair of that most useless fortrcss Almeida; they are also lavishing great snms upon the fouifications of Elvas, in order todcceive the Spaniards, and indnce thcm still to look npon those as the kcys ■ of Portugal; but they do not endeavour to find MILITAR? VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 337 out what other openings thc enemy might push ^^J' through: a line of posts might, with case and ^-^v—*-^ ' ° Portuga). with a little expenso, be formecl a|ong the moun- Beira, tains and thc eourse of thc rivers whieh, by a SuZlri^of' very simple method of fortifieation and defenee, jSSmp would cover Lisbonand Oporto from insult; but, to statc the matter fairly, the Portugucse govern- inent are not so much ío blame, as it knows the character of the Spaniards, and lias reason to think they will also esteem Almeida a plaee of infinite consequenee, and its reduetion a suíTicíent reward for a whoie eampaign; that they will ahvays eommenee their operations by the invasion of Beira, and by that prejudicc keep the war at a distance from botli Lisbon and Oporto, thc loss of whieh would endanger the whole kingdom. The reduetion of a fcw places, whieh at the peace mu st be restorcd, w ha te ver men and money they may have cost you to take and preserve, are nothing to throw into the balance of a negotiation ; th is truth the French hãve found out after every German war. In the present state of thuigs, (continues Dumou- riez, in 1775,) Portugal dependsupon SpaÍn's adopting a false, expensive,.undecisive, system of warfare. Woe to Portugal if Spaiu should d isco ver its error, and take advantage of Portuguesc ignoranee and jiegligenec i VOL. i. z 33S CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

To retum to the siege of Almeida.—If the Spa-

Portugal. niards undertakc it this project dctains them far jjcira. from Lisbon, gives time for decision in the Portu- Dumooricaon ' guese cabinet, and for the arrival of English suc- p»v!nco.riu cours. The fortress, if wcll defended, may waste a whole campaign, and when taken will be of little use, by rcason of its distance from the centre of operations; mean-wliile the eneniy may take post in the gorges and defiles of Beira, entrench themselves in the fine camp of Guarda, and to ward orT from Lisbon the blows of war against which, in fact, they ought principally to be di- rccted. I even aflirm that, wcre ali the i>rovinees to fali into the handsof an invader, if Lisbon and Oporto be not reduccd, the aspect of the war would not be more changed, as far as rcgards a negotiation for peace, than if nothing had been clone; I, thereforc, am coiiilrlenr, that the surrender of Almeida, instcad of promoting, really retarded, the progress of the war. After taking that fortress, the remaintler of the campaign was spcnt in uncertain wandcrings and countermarches; the tninistcr disregarded bis general, the count of Ar anda, who, being on the spot, was the best qualified to take a decidcd part and propcr mensures; ali inilitary men allowcd the puriry of bis intentions and bis prudence, by which alone lie repaired the mischiefs oecasioncd by the disorder of the supplies and hospitais, and enabled the MItITARY VIEV OF THE PENÍNSULA. 33Q army, by restoration of health and order, to com- BOOK i. V V ' CIUP. III. mence the followim? campaign undcr betteraus- >-*~v~**-/ ° l ° Portugal, pices. His plan was to move against Coimbra, Beira. and also seize upon Oporto, tlie only i way to de- S^ilíoí'* rive any benefit from tlie capture of Almeida, %$%?"* and to make amends for the lost time. It is clear tliat if Arauda could bave put tbis project in exeeution the war of Portugal would have ended in a very difTerent manner; but still the count hari diseerned only a small part of tlie only plan capable of fmisbing the war of Portugal in two months, for be would have, left time for the eneniy to cover Lisbon, and render the approaches extremely difficult. After taking Almeida an army advances into •Beira and there mects with the Sierra d'Estrella, forniing a tremendous barrier before tlie capital; ,tben you niust have to encounter an army of 20,000 Portugticse and 7000 British soldiers.— What is to be done against such a foree enr trenching among the mountains, where there is no .passage for waggons and artillery, especially if you arewithoutmaps, scouts, light baggage, medicines, anui provisions, harassed and surrounded by 30,00Q brave and desperate peasants? The province of Estremadura is one hundred E>trem»dur». and twenty miles long, and seventy wide, bounded, northward, by Beira, ^and, oti the east and sou th, by . z 2 340 CAMPAIGNS IN SFAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. Alentejo, on the wcst, by the occan, and divided, CHAP» III* from east' to west, by the Tagus, which falis into Portugal. Estremadura. the sea a little bclow Lisbon. The Tagus. This noble streani, the principal ri ver and barbour in Portugal, is navigable fnr near a hundred miles fiom its mouth, and rapid; above Abrantes it runs irregularly among mountaíns. Estremadura, with the best soíl in Portugal, and every species of its fruits, containing two cities, one hundred and eleven towns, and nearly 700,000 inhabitants, comprises six coi regidorias, two ouvidorias, and four lumdred and sixty parishes; to which are to be added the corregídoria and two ouvidorias of Se tu vai. Lisbon. Lisbon, with its district, a corregídoria, comprises 360,000 inhabítants. The city, a municipium under the llomans, rích in commerce and the seat of a patriareh, stands on seven high hills and intermediate eniinences, ín an amphitheatrieal form, nu the northern bank of tlie Tagus, nearly four miles long, including the suburbs, and two broad. It has thirty-seven pari shes, thirty convents of men, and eighteen of nuns. The members of the cnllegeof canons are ali dignificd by the titleof monsignore, and chosen from the first families in the kingdom. The patriareh dresses like the pope, and tlie canons like the cardinais. Tlie approach to Lisbon and the mouth of the MILITAUY VIEW OF THE PENMNSULA. 341

B00KL Taçus is defendcd byJ the forts of St. Julian and ° CHAP. IH. Bugio,° ' which cross thcir fire.' and command the ^T*^T^^'rortugal. bar.; the former stands higli, ciit out of and adapt- Estremadura. ed to the irregular form of rocks, and is, according Ushoa' to the description of J\l. Dumouríez, almost impregnable; it lias on the land side five irregular bastions and a ravelin, bcsides other works, but they are commanded; and towards the river a number of batteries, but jndifterently construo ted. The Bugio is to the southward of it, in the middle of the river on"a circular mound of rock and sand, and has numerous batteries. Between them runs the bar of Lisbon, across the The bar. middle of which runs a bank of stone (Os Cacho- pos) beginning a gun-shot from fort Sr. Julian and rnnning up above six miles to the north-north-west. The narrow chanuel on the north side the Corre- dor, or Iittle bar (Barra Pequena), is notattempt- ed without a leading wind and the t ide; tlie sou them, A Carreira da Alcáçova, is much wider. Between St. Julian and the tower of Belém, at Passo de Arcos, a large fleet may anchor safely and sail with safety. At two miles bclow Lisbon is the tower of Be- TowcrsofBe- . ... lem and Velha. lem, near the beach where vessels are visited on account of tlie eustoms; and on a rock to the southward the tower of Velha, the batteries of both of which eross fire. Some ill-distributed batteries are 342 CAJIPAICXS IN SPAIN AND rÒRTUGAL»

tio OK i. ]eVel with the water. At Belém, besides tlie castle^ CJIAP. III. is a battery of heavy ordnanee, and the northeni Portujal. i^slicmadura. bank of the Tagus "is similarly defcnded. Abovtí Liiboji. the capital is an extensivo lake, where a fleet is without the range of cannon-shot from eitber shorc. The port of Lisbon, says Dumouriez, is indisputably one of the finest in Ktirope; its reaeb of two niiles, sheltered from every wiud, easy of access to any number of ships of whatevcr burthen, wants only a eommodious quay. The employmcnt of thcse ships, exclusive of the Brazil-trade, is particularly marked by the same writer. For, lie continues, Lisbon inay be considered an English factory, from the number of English residcnt here, and their iníluence. Long may tliis influenee (earncd, as it lias been, by our arms and industry) eontínue, wliieh gives to England, in. the quarter least boasted, a sure footing on the continent of Europe ! From its inegularity, Lisbon is ineapable of much beauty from art. General Dumouriez very profes- sionally compares its appearanee since the earthquake to the demolition of a fortress blown up with gunpowder. The only levei is that of the Rocio, on the ri ver side, which Count d'Oeyras en- deavoured to cover with spleudid buildings, unhapfc pily yet incomplete. ' JI1LITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 343

It has a eonsiderable doek-yard, arsenais, and founderies for brass çuns.° Portugal. The puré and salubrious air of Lisbon is too well Estremadura, known to need deseription; but it is subject to violent falis of rain, storms, and earthquakes. The streets uneven, hilly, and ill-paved, are unclean, and the conveyances through them bad ; tlie town feels mu eh the want of eminent buildings, for which the environs, although not wanting in beauty, do not compensaie. Having treated the capital thus partieularly, in tracing a simple geographical progress through the provinces of Portugal, from north to south, the roads, whether post or otherwise, demand to be noticed here. The roads of Portugal are worse than those of Spain, either stony and narrow, a wicle sandy track, or ill-paved. Every post-house keeps post-horses in readiness, by regulation thirteen, but generally very indifferent. Two are charged a dollar, or eight tes- toons, a league; and a pesetta to the postillion. The following routes include the measured roads, of whatever kind, of the most utility to the military reader: 344 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AKD PORTUGAL.

LEAOUE5. LÍAdOíí.

Portugal. lst Roura. Junqueira ------Priacipal routca Rabaçal ------From Lisbon to Abrantes, Foitte Coberta ------Alcabcdcíjue ------To Sacavém, F. B.* - - - - Venda ilo Cego Povoa -.--..*-- Ri ver Mondego B. Alverca "-..-.--- Coimbra ------Alhandra «•------Vil la Franca de Xira - - - 33£ Povos - .----.--. Castcnheita ------Villa Nova da Ilaiitha - - Azambuja ------• 3d ROUTE. Muro do Conde de Aveiras Cartaxo ------Fonte Secca------From Lisbon trt Coimbra, by another Santarém - - limite, which, in winttr, is better As Barroca» ------than the foregoing, Ponte de Avcíla ----- Ponte de Al monda - - - ♦ To Cnstcnheira, by lst R. - - 7j Goteguni - — ----- Carregado ------1 Curdiga ------, Tancos .--.----- Otta 1 Tagarro ------2 Kivcr Zer-cre, B B. Venda da Aqua - - * - - 1 Puithete ------Venda de Palhoça 1 Abrautes ------Veada de Costa - - - • • 1 Caiidií-iroí ------'£ 224 Muliano ------2 Carvollios ------ô Choo da Feira - — - - - 1 2d ROUTF. S. Jorge - — ----- 1 Batalha ------1 From Litixm to Coimbra. Leiria ------2 Venda dos Machados - - 1 To Golegam.t by lst R. - - - 17$ Venda do Galego - - - - 1 Espraganal Bouça ------1 La morosa - - - Venda Nova ------1 Payalvo - - - Pombal ---* t S. Lourenço • • VeuHa do Diabo 1 João do Macans lU-dmha 1' Rio de Couros - Condeixa ------3 Peracha - - - - Coimbra ------S Arneiro - - - - Ri ver Mondego B, ■ Gaita - - - - - Ancião - - - -

• F. B. Flyiog Bridgc. R. Route. B. B. Bridge of Boats. Ponte, Bridge. B- Bridge. Venda, or Venta, a Post- F. Fcrry. house. t The country about Golcgam flat, and, in the raifly season, sometimes ira. pwsable. MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 345

iE*orrs. LEAGVES.

4lll RnVTE. 6th ROCTE. Portugal. Principal route» From LittW to Ojiorto. Frrm Lhbon to Chaves.

To Coimbra, by 3á R. 31$ To Lamego, by Sth R. - - - 54 Fornos ------Ri ver Uouro» F. CarOliveira de Azemeii « • - S. António de ArrilTan» - 67 . Souto Redondo - - - - - Gríjo ------7tli ROUTE. S. António dos. Carvalhos Gallrga ------Ri ver Douro, B. D. From Liibon to T,roga. Òporto ------To Oporto by Golegam - - . Pome de Leça do Balio - Castclegio ------.- Carriça -.--..... H. B. By R. l*t, as far a» Golegam, Barca de Troa ------tbe distauce to Oporto is only 51 \ Villa Nova da Faroeliçao leagues. Santiago da Crus -,- - - Tcbosa ------5th ROUTS. Braga ......

From Lisbon to Lamego. 59*

To Coimbra by Golegam - - 33* Sardao ------Sth ROUTS. Ferreiro»------Talhadas ------From Lisbon to Guimaraens. Bcmfeitas ------Ponteíora ------To Oporto 51£ Santiaggumho ------Carneiro ---...-.- 4 Youzclla — ------Ponte de NegrcJos - - - - 2 S. Pedro do Sol Guimaraens ------% Cobertúiha - - Alva - - - 59* Castro Dairo ------Bigorne ------9th UOTJTE. Povoa ---- — .-.- Lamego ------From Lisbon to Valença do Minho.

54* To Braga, hy 7th R. 59$ Piado 1 346 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL»

LEACUES. LEAOUES.

Portugal. To Monre ------1 I2th ROUTE. Principal roules Portclla de Cabras - - - - 1 Ponte de Uma ----- 2 From Lisbon to Villa de Conde. Kivcr Lini», B. Labrujc — ------2 Valença -.----- — 3 To O porto 51} 'Padrão da Legoa - - - - 1 69\ Moreira ------1 Venda da Velha ----- 1 Aíurar ------1 lOth ROBTS. Cross the Rivcr Davc, B. Villa de Conde 0 From Lisbcm to Valença do Minho, b\j another lioute. 55*

To Braga .59$ Vao du Bico ------lSth ROUTE. Uca de Regalados Portel la Palme 1 Senhora de Portclla - - - 1 Ponte de Fragoso - - - - 1 Senhora Apnarecida - - - 1 Alvarciis ------j Portclla de S. Estevão - - 2 Darque -.-- .-- * Ponte de Lima ----- 1 Viana ------$

65 651 MlLlTARY VIEW OF THE PENI.VSULA. 347

15th ROUTE. 17tli ROUTE. Portugal. VÓDÓ al From Lisbon to Amarante, b

To Oporto To Abrantes 22* Vendas Novas - - - • Penascoso ------3 Valongo Maçam ------1 Ponte Ferreira - - - • Vendas Novas 2 Boltliar ------Perdigão ------3 Paredes ------Gemadas ------2 Penafiel ------Castcllo Branco t - - - - 2 Ucanha ------Idanha Nova - • 5 Villt Mta Zibrcira ------5 Fidre Jliver Tâmega, B. 464 Amaraute ------

I8th ROUTF. From Litbon to Guarda, by Thomar and I6th ROUTE. Celorico. From Lubint to Almada, ' To Colegam, by lst R. To Abrantes, by lst R. - - - 22\ Ponte de Pedra - Vilk de Rey S Vai de Tancos ------Cardigos ------2 Guerreira ------Cortiçada ------ii Thomar ------Sobreira Fennoza - - - - 1 Venda Nova Monte Gordo ------2 Ceras ------Sazcdus .----•--• 1 Pereiros ------Castcllo Branco ----- 3 Cabaços ------Alcains ------3 Barqueiro ------Lardofa ------1 Vendas de Maria Atalaya ---.-.--- 1 Espinhal ------— 2 Quarta 1 Venda do Corvo ----- 2 Capiubo ------t Foz de Arouce - 2 Pcraboa ...... 1 S. Miguel de Povares - - Caria - — ..---.- 1 Ponte de Mareei la - - - Belmonte ------1 Cortiça ------Guarda ------4 Moita ----*----- Joa Iiragal ------1 Venda do Vallc - - - - - Vrgeira ------1 Venda do Porco - - - - - Púuio ------1 Gallizcs ------Freixo ------1 Chamusca .-«---- Àdca Nova ------1 Caragoça ------Almeida* ------1 Torrpzello ------Maceira ------59* Pinhanços - - — -.-- Vinho ------

* TUij is the best route to Almeida. t This route from Abrantes to Castello Branco is not so good is the former. 348 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

IIAOCIS,

Portugal. To Sampayo £ To Tondella 1 2 1 Sabugosa ------1 Principalr rouU» )?"" ^f * Carrapichana ------£ Fail l Cortiço --.------l Viseu ------1 % Celorico ------1 Guarda 3 46$ 62*

22d ROUTE. 19Úx ROUT«. Trom Lisbon to Moimenta da Beira. From Lúbon to Almeida, bg Celorico and Pinhel. To Yi«:a ------46J Cavernaes ------To Celorico, hy 18th R. 49{ Pedrosa ------Baraça! -----.. 1 Fontainhas ------Souto Pires 3 Lamas ------Pinhel 1 Scgoes ------•-- Pereiro -.----. 1 Granja de Paiva - - - - - Valverde - — - - • 1 Moimenta da Beira - - - River Coa, B. Almeida ----.., 534

57* 53d ROUTE.

SOth ROUTZ. From lÁibcm, £>y Torre de Moncorvo, t» Miranda. From ÍÃibon to Trancem. To Celorico, by 18th R. - - - 49* To Celorico - - 49$ S. Martinho ------3 Frontelhuro 1 Rabaçal 2 Tale» 1 Marvão ------3 Trancoso - 1 Vil la Nova de Fascoa - - 1 Ri»cr Douro F. 52i Torre de Moncorvo — - 2 Carviçaes ------í Mogadouro------4 Stst ROUTE. Vílla dclle 2 Síndim ------3 rom Lisbon to Viteu. Miranda 2

To Coimbra, hy íd R. 53* Eiras -.------Botão - - Galhano ------24tk ROUTE. S. António do Cântaro - - Freirigo • ------From Lisbon to Bragança, or Bragansa. Barril Ponte da Orix ------To Torre de Moncorvo - • - 60% Caral de Maria - - - - - Portella 1 S.Jo&niubo ------Jonquiera ------1 HILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 349

LEAOUXS. LSAOUIS.

Santa Comba ----- 280iRooil. * Portugal. Trinidade ---.- ... Bornes ------From LUbon to Leiria, by Torto de Mos. Principal routes Vai bem feito ------Grijo------To Santarém, by IstR. - - - 13$ Vai de Prados Tremes------3 Quiutella- ._. Abrahao ------2 Fernandes ------Porto de Moz------3 Sortes - - - -- Lcirii* ------3 Bragança 2 24} 74*

29tU ROVTE. 25thHouTB. From Lisbon to Caldas da Rainha. From Lisbon to Torrei Vedras, To Torres Vedras, by S5th R, 7 To Lumiar ------S. Gião - - * Loires ------Azambujeira and Roliça - 2 Cabeça de Montaehtque - Óbidos t Povoa ------Calda» .---- 1 Emxara dos Cavalheiros - Cadraeeira ------li Torrei Vedrat ---.--

30th RooTB. From Lisbon to Caldas, by CastirJieie*. S6ta ROUTE. To Casteaheira, by Ist R. - - ?J From Lisbon to Alenquer. Moinho Novo ------1 Otta I To Campo Grande------l Cereal 2 Bucella» 3} Sancbeira ------2 Alenquer------3 Caldai 1 ~H1

27th ROUTE. 31itRouTi.

From Lisbon to Alenquer, by Casten- From Lisbon to Turres Nero», heira. To Torres Vedras, by 25lb R. 7 To Castenbcira. by 1st R. - • 7f Ramalhal ------2 Alenquer------2 Martim Joanues ----- l Quinta de D. Darão - - - 1 Venda de Pia ------1 Rio Mayor ------1 350 CAMPAIGNS 1NT SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

LEAOUÍS,

Portuga}. Alcanede------3 36th ROUTB. Torres Novas ------4 Principal routcs Trom Liibon to Portolegre. 20 To Estremo?, by 34th R. - - 24 Monforte------4 32d ROUTB, Portalegre ------, 4 From Lisbon to Tkomar, by Torrt» Novas. 32 To Torres Novas 20 PedeCao 1 37th ROUTB. Paialvo------1 Thomar------l From Lisbon to Portalegre, by Vimieiro*

23 To Arrayolos, by 34th R. - - 18 Vimieiro - - 2 Souzci 3 33d ROUTB. Fronteira ------2 Trom Lisbon to Thomar, by Santarém. Portalegre - - 5 To Santarém, by lst R. - - - 13$ 30 Pernes 3 Zibreira------1 38th ROUTB. Torres Novas ------1 Thomar ------3 From Lisbon to Sagres. To Moita, by water ----- 3 Palmella 2 Setuval, orSt. Ubea 1 S4th ROUTB. Comporta ------3 From Lisbon to Eivai. Melides 6 Santiago de Cacem 3j To Aldeã Galega, by water - 3 Sines------i--.- 4 Ililvas 2 S. Giraldo 1 Pegões ------3 . Villa Nova de Mil Fontes - 1 \ Vendas Novas ------3 Ri ver Mira, F. Silveiras ...... 2 Scrdao ------4 Montemor Novo ----- 2 De Seixo ------4 Arrayolos ------3 Aljesur------2 Venda do Duque ----- 3 Carapateira ------j> Estremoz ------3 Sagres ------6 AJoarnviça ------2 Elvas 4 '4'i

30 39th ROUTB. 35th ROUTB. From Lisbon to Lagos. From Lisbon to Viila Viçosa. To Aljesur, by 38th R. - - - 35 To Estremoz ------24 Bcmsaírim ------4 Villa Virosa a£ Lagos ------1

V6\ 40 MILITAItV VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 351

LEAOUES.

40lh ROOT*. Figueira dos Cavalleiros - 3 Portugal. Aljustrel 4 Princi|>al routei From Litbm to Villa Nova de Portimão Aliuodovar ------6 and Silvei- Corte Figueira ------3 Loulé <> To Lagos 40 Alvor 1 38 Villa Nora de Portimão - 1 Silves * 44th RotTTE. 44 From Lisbon to Faro.

41 st RocTE. To Aljustrel ' 28 Castro Verde ------3 From Lisbon to Albufeira, by Silves. Samhraiia -.------Ameixial ------To Silves - « 44 S. Braz 5 Al bu feira - 2 Faro 2 46 39

42d UOBTE. 45th ROUTE. FromlÀsbon to Castro Marim, by Tavira, From Lisbon to Albufeira, by Alcácer àoSal. To Aljustrel, 43d R 22 Entradas ------2 To Afoita, by watçr - - - - » 3 S. Marcos ..--•--- t Palhota 2 S. Sebastião ------3 Agoasdc Moira ------3 Azambujal ------6 Palma - - - ... 2 Tavira - 7 Alberges ------1 Castro Marim ------4 Alcácer do Sal - • 1 ValdcCuisío------1 46 Nisa ------2 Bairros ------S Alvalade 2 S. Martinho - 5 46Hh ROUTE. S.Marcos ------6 S. Bartbolomeu de Mes- From Lisbon to Masejana, sines ------3 To Alvalade, bjr 42d K. - - - 20 Albufeira------5 Mcsscjana ------t

39 22

43d ROUTE. 47th ROUTE. From Lisbon to I^ntle. From Lisbon to Ourique. To Alcaeer do Sul 12 To Moita - 3 Porto dei Rei - 2 Palmella 2 Quinta de D. Rodrigo - - 2 Setuval.or St. Ubes --» 1 3512 CAMPÀIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Comporta -..------3 5i*t ROVTE. Portugal. Grândola------6 Principal roules Alvalade ------5 From Litbon to Elora. Ourique ------5 To Montemor Novo, by 34th 25 R. 15 Palatiro ------%\ Évora ------t\

48th PvOUTB. 20

From Litbon to Odemira. 52d ROPTE. To Santiago de Cacem, by 38th R, 17 From Litbon to ílourao. Sercal --- - - 4 Odemira ------. 5 To Évora - - 20 Vendinha- 5 26 Reguengo 1 Mourão - 3

29 49th HOUTE.

53d ROUTE. From Litbon lo Beja. From Litbon to Serpa. To Moita, by water ----- 3 To Viana 2 Palhota- --. 2 Agoa de Peixes - - - - - Agoas de Moira ----- 3 Villa Ruiva ------Porto Carvalho 2 Cuba - - Rio Moirmho ------2 VSdjgaeira ------Torrão ------3 Serpa ...... Aliutidae- --- — --- 4 Beja 3

22 54th RofTE. From Litbon to Avix.

50th ROUTí. To Vimieiro 20 Avií ------4 From Litbon to Beja; betterfor Cor- 24 riagetthan tkeformer.

To Montemor Novo, by 34th • 56th ROUTK. R 15 S. Braz 4 From Litbon u Peniche. Viana _ . - . . g To Torres Vedras, by 25tb R. - 7 Alvito ------1 Lourinha ------3 Beja 5 Peniche --.----»- 2

27 12 MILITARV VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 353

LEAOCES. BOOKI. , • CU AP. XII.

57th ROUTK. Mcirellcs ------1 Portugal.

From Lisbm to Brogmxa Nova, or Aveiro. 68J To Leiria, by 2&th R. 24$ Machados ------1 Crespos ------3 61st RO«TB. Almagrcira ------2 Casas Velhas -- — - - - 1 From Santarém to Peniche. Villa Nova de Anços- - - 1 Fermozclhe------1 To Pêro Filho - Pereira ------1 Malaqueija ------* River Mondego F. Escuta ------Temtugal- - - 1 Rio Mayor ------Villa Nova------1 Mata lie Albergaria- - - - Cantanhede'------1 Fnnadia ------Cai»ariu'ira ------1 Caldas Maraarosa------1 Foui«douro------Palhaça 1 Alouguia ------Salgueiro ------1 Peniche ------Esgueira ------\ Aveiro ------z- \ n

62d ROUTE.

58th ROUTE. Leiria to Abrantes, by Themar.

From Lisbm to ÇOCíUíOO. To Scite Rios ------Homem Morto - - - — - ToCapinho.hyleHliR. --- 46J Aldeã de Crus - • Covilhao------3 Alioicte ------Vai de Ovo» 491 Thomar------S. Pedro Martinchel ------59th ROUTB. Amoreira ------Abrantes ------*• From Lisbon to St. João de Pesqueira. 10 To Moimenta d» Beira by 22d R. 53$ Guideiros ------1 63d ROOTB. Pemiles ------1 Trovoeus ------1 TZloat to Abrantes. S. João de Pesqueira - - - 3 To Estremo* ---- 6 Cano ------3 Ervcdal ------2 Benevilla 2 60th ROUTE. Ponte dcSor -->----- 3 Villa de Axedo 3 From Lisboa to Niranâella. Abrantes --.-•--- 2 To-- S. João de Pesqueira - - - 59{ Ilivcr Douro F. fl Villa Flor 5 VOI. I. A a 354 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Portugal. Moreirinhas ------2 64th ROUTB. Aguiarda Beira ------3 Principal routc* Moimenta de Beira- - - - S Guarda to Viteu. Coniím ------tj Gojim ------1 To Celorico Villa Seca 1 Figueiró Gal afeita ------t Pomos - Rivcr Douro F. Cl) ai» - Villa Real - .- 3 Quintela Campeão -•- 2 Tagildc - Ovelha » Viseu - - Amarante------1 Oporto, byl5th R, --- - 8 33

65th ROUTC.

From Almeida to Coimbra, by Viseu, 68th ROUTE.

To Pinliel 5 Oporto to Chuvet. Trancoso ------6 pominlios 4 To Braga, by 7th R. - - - Viseu ------5 Carvalho D'Este - - • Sabugo» ------2 Pinheiro - - Cfiz 4 Pardieiros ------Galhan» ------4 Penedo ------Coimbra ------3 Salamonde ------Ruivaes ------^31 Campos ------Venda Nova - - - - - Venda da Serra - - - Alturas ------66tb ROUIE. Carvnlhcllos - , - - . Boticas .-----.- From Almeida to Coimbra, ly Guarda, Casas Novas - - - - - Chaves ------To Guarda, by 16tb R. - - - - 6 Celorico ------3 Sampayo ------3 Maceira ------3 Galizes ---- -' 3 Venda da Serra - 3 69tbRouTJt. S. Andrede de Poyarcs - - 3 Coimbra ------3 From Almeida to Aveiro, 27 To Vizeu, by 6Sth R. - - - - 18 Crux Alta ..... S. Miguel de Outeiro- - - 67thRovT«. Portclia ---- Moutezo ------Almeida to Oporto. Urgucira --- Cabeça de Cao ------To Pinhel Ferreiros -._ Cerejo Arancada ------,- MILITAKY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA, 355

1.EAOWM BOOK T.

Palhoça Alcorcon ------(1 Portugal. Aveiro Ventas de Alcorcon" • - - 1 ♦ «i •• I JI. Madrid ------1 Principalroutes 29 ?6

rOtbPvQVTK. 72d ROVTE. lÂsbon to Figutiro. From. Lisbon to Madrid^ by Zibreira. To Leiria, by 28tb R. - - - - 24J Lavoos ----- — - - 6 To Zibreira, by 17d» R. 46§ Figueira------1 Sarsa, or Zarze dé Alcântara 11 Canaveral •-' 4 Torrejonsillo 4 Rio Lobos- 2 Malpartida ------4 71il RQUTS. Venta de la Basagona - - 3 Casa Tejada ------4 From Utbon to Madrid, by Elvat, the Naval Moral 3 , PotUlioaã. Madrid, by 7 IstR. - - - SOJ

To Elvas, by 34th R. 30 River Caya. Rivcr Guadiana B. Badajos — - 3 75d ROUTE. River Guadiana B. Metida -f 10 From Almtidato Bragança. Metades — — - - — 7} Trnxillo 6 To Villa Torpirc - . 1 Rio dei Monte B. Alniaçro -- — .... ,1} Jariítcgo .-- 2j Almendra ------i| Casas dei Puerto de SI i ra- Castel Melhor ------l| beie 7 - 2 River Coa F. River Tagus. Villa Nova de Foscoa - - 1§ Bridge of Almaraz destroycd. Pochinlio ------1 Almaraz 2j River Douro F. Naval Moral ------2 Torre de Moncorvo - - - 1 Calcada de Oropesa 4 Bragaaca, by24tli R. - - 14 Venta Pcralvancgas — - 4 Talavcra de la Rcyna - - 4 24 River Albcrchc B. Venta de Albcrehe - - - - 1 El Bravo 2.J Santa Olalla------S 74th ROOXK. MagUeda --e----n 1 San Silvestre- - 1 From Oporto to Bragança. Lu Venta dei Galio - - - 2 Venta de Retoraosa - - - 1 To Amarante, by 15th R. - - 10 Casa Rubios ------1 Ovelha ------i El Álamo ------1 Campcam ------2 Rivcr Guadarraroa B- Villa Real a Arroyo Molinos ----- g Alvites 1 Mostolc» ------1 Parado de Pinhão . - - • I\ Q A a a 356 CAMPAIGNS IN SFAíN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK L

Portugal. Villa Verde Cadaval ------?7tb RotiTE, Principal routes Murça ----.----. Franco ------From Lisbon to ilonsenat. Lamas de Ovelhao - - - - Paços ------To Évora, by 51st R. 20 Jlirandclla ------Verdinha 3 Carvalhacs ------Albardão -.----.-- l Lamas de Cavallo - - - - Monserras ------3 Alia - - Fodence ------27. Quintela ------Vai de Mogeira Sortes Bragauça .------78th ROWTB.

24 From Lisbon to Pinhel, by Almeida.

To Almeida, by 16H» R. - - - 59^ 75tliRouri. River Coa B. Vai Verdinho ------1 From Oporte ta Chata, by Amarante. Pereiro ------l Pinhel I To Amarante ------10 River Tâmega B. Vilta Bcal S Escariz ------ij Amerio i| Villa Pouca 1 79-th ROUTS. Sobroso ---. ij Villa Verde da Oura - - - 1 Bobeda ---"- l From Lisbon to Pinhel, by Celorico. Chaves ------i To Celorico, by I8th R. - - - 49J Baraçai ------— - i Souto Pires ------3 Pinhel 1 76ih ROUTE. IH From Oporto to Chavet, by Cuimorocns and the Ponte de Caves. To Guimaraens, by 8th R. - - 8 80th RODTE. Farte 2 Arcos — --- — ... 3 From Amarante to Ruivats, by Biisly. Caves .-__;_. i Ponte de Caves, or bridge To Celorico de Basto ----- I over lhe Tâmega - - - - l Cabeceiras de Basto - - - 2 Villa Pouca- - - 4 Basto l£ ( Chaves, by 75th R. - - - 5 Ruivae* -.-- 2

23 MILITARY VIEW OP THE PENÍNSULA. 357

HAOUES. BOOK L __ CIIAP.I1I. River Zêzere F. lMartinchel - - - - $ PortugaL 81st ROUTE. Abrantes - - - - - Principal routei From LÁibcn to Cinlra. 354 To Bemfica 1 Quelus ------1 Cintra --- 3 84tb ROUTB. From Ojjorto to Zamora in Spain, by MirandeUa and Miranda. To MirandeUa, by 74thR. - - «5 82d ROUTí. Samndella ------2 Carapítos------1 Frvm IMbon to Mafra. Castelloens - - - - 1 Lioioenj ------1 To Bemfica 1 Castro Ropar - 1 Delias 1 Izeda ------1 Cheleiros ------2 Ponte de Iteda ------1 Mafra* t River Sabor B. Santo Olliao ------1 Cassao — ._----!- £ Vimioso ------1 • OrbyCiotra, 7. Cassarelhas ------1 Genizio ...-■- 1 Miranda ---$----• 1 83d ROUIE. Parndellas- 2 Castro (!n Spaio) ----- 1§ From Oporlo to Abrantes. Fonfrio ------.-- 1 Vermil'o ...... í To Coimbra, by 4tli R. - - - - 18 Vidimala ..-.-.--- £ S. Jorge ------i Villa Nucva ---- — - 1 Rabaçal ------3 San Fedro de la Nave - - J Ancião -- 2 Campillo ------j Akazayare ------3 Zamora -.-..----- 4 Ceras 2 Thornar- ---- 2 49J S. Pedro 1

Distancesfrom Tozons m PORTUGAL to some oflhe principal Towns in Sparn.

From Lisboa Gibraltar, by Sevilla and Málaga------Xo Cádiz, bj Sevilla -t • 77J Málaga, by Se villa Cartagena, by Se villa and Ronda, bySeviWa- Mureia - • 135§ Tarifa, by Gibraltar Granada, by Se villa- - - - 9l| Mureia, by SeviUa • - - » 358. CAMPAIGNS IiV SPAIN AND PORTUGAt.

LEAOUE*.

Portugal. Mnrcia, by Eives- - - 4 - ISO Oviedo tl3 Jaen --.----•--- 86 Priíicipal routci Scviila, by Serpa - - - - • S6\ Tarrazon - - - - — ... 138JÈ Granada ------70 Cascante ..--.. 140^ Placentia ...--•- 32 Alicanie, bv Mureia - . - 139Í Toledo, by Talavera de )a Burgos, by Madrid - - - - i3?| Rcyna 59 Vitoria 159 Córdova --- 45 Bilboa i - - - 163 Zaragora - - • ■-..--- 117 Pani|>!ona ------12J Leon, by Salamanca - - - 86$ Frvm Optirta Zauiora -..---- 75 Tb Santiago, !n Galicia, by Va- lença do Minho - - - - 37$ From Almeida ' Corona, by Santiago - - - 48| 1 Betanzos -..--.-.- 46£ To Madrid, by Ciudad Rodrigo 53 Ferrol 5«| Salamanca, by dilto - - - 23 Orensc, by Chaves - - - - Sê Zamora, by ditto — - - - 50 Astorga, by ditto 7t\ From FAcat U-on, by ditto 73| Oviedo, by Leon ----- 93 j TòCoria 24 Valladolid 44 - Ciudad Rodrigo - - - - - 41 Burgos ------66 . Salamanca ••-••-•• 58 Vitoria ...-- 87§ , ValJadolid 87 Toledo, by Placcncia - - - 56 Burgos 96 Ba vona, in Francc, by Bur- ditto, by Salamanca - - - 109 gos - 120 Barcelona ------168 Ba.vona, by Madrid and 1 , Cadii - - - 63 1'arnntona ------1S6 , Sevilla - - ". ------37 Paris, by Burgos arid Bay- Valência ------H3 ona 294

Lisbon, besklcs, eontains objects worthy of notice, but not of present utility equal to the space requircd in describing them ; of these is the aqueduet of Alcântara, descri bec! hereafter. Beiícm. .* Miem, (Bethlem,) the residenee of the king, three miles from Lisbon, founded by Emanuel in honour of the nativity, lias a good natural mu* seum, and pretty perfect remains of a Moorish tower; known b}f its name, which projecte into the j\\çx for its defence, and, from its summit, ÍIILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 359 yields a dcíightful view of thc city and river. ^°af- ilie monàstcry of St. Jerónimo contains, among thc ^^f***^ sepuí chies of the Portugucse royal family, that of Esm-madu». Catharinc, thequcen of Charles II. of England, the sistcr of Alphonso VI. of Portugal. Thc corregedoria of Torres Vedras contains Tones Vedm. eighteen towns and forty thousánd pcoplc;. and its chief town is supposed, not without reason, by Dumouriez, to have becn antiently a Roman Prasidium, Turres Veteres. That of Alenquer comprises cight burghs and Alenquer, twenty-eight thousánd people. Thc town, builtby the Alani, forms an cxccllcnt fort for a corps of troops, to awe or defend Lisbon. Leyria lias an episcopal city, 21 towns, and 1*3™. 60,000 inhabitants. The city, standing in thc plain between thc Lis and the Lcna, lias a strong old castle. Thomar corregedoria contains \0 towns and ^UMM* 40,000 inhabitants, with a chief town built by thc Knights Tem pia rs, and afterwards transferred to thc order of Christ by king Dyonisius and Pope John XXII. Abrantes, whose corregedoriahas but twoburghs. Abrantw. and 12,000 souls, was a municipium of the. Rò-< mans as early as Augustus, and erected by John V; into a marquisatc: Dumouriez considers it the.key of the Tagus. It is a placc capablc, of :great. 360 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIÍí AND PORTUGAL.

strength, standing on an eminence of difficult ascent, and nearly surrounded by okl walls. It Estremadura, faces, and is flanked on the left by, a mountainous country, with the Tagus on its right, and the Lezere in the rear. Ourem. Ourem ouvidoria is a sort of regai country,-with seven burghs and 10,000 people. Tlie town is on" an eminence. Santarém, Santarém lias 15 towns and 50,000 soula. The town (the Scalabis and Prasidium Julium, of the Romans) forms a crescent on tlie Tagus, sixteen leagues from Lisbon, overlooking a fine plain, tlirough which that noble river winds in great beauty, tliough sometimes not without laying a part of it under water. The walls of Santarém are antient, with six gates, and an old citadel, to which Alphonso VI. added a hom-work, of liltle worth, without curtain or out-works. The Moors often failed in besieging it, and the plains have becn the scene of many victories over them. It is rich, and has been a princely residence, contaíns between two and three thousand houses and eleven convents; with a chapter of the order of Ava. No description of the country of Setuval is superior to the foliowing, at the time of Dumou- riez's tour. MILITAUY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 36l

lt contains thrce jurisdictions; the corregedoria ?££*£ of Almeida, the ouvidoria of Setuval, appertaining p^Q^ to the order of St. Jago, aod the ouvidoria of Estremadura. Azeitão whieh bclougcd to the house Aveiro; there are in it twenty towns and 20,000 souls. Setuval, which our sailors have corrupted to Sctu"L St. Ubes, was founded by Alphonso, first king of Portugal, nearly opposite the seite of Csetobriga, a Ronian colony, on the other side of the river Calclao, where they stationed their fleet: the place is now oceupied by the village of Troya; it is situated on the left side of the Tagus. ■ Setuval exports agreat dealof salt, oil, oranges, and wine of excellent quality, the greatest part of which goes to England. The town is well built, environed with antient walls and massive towers, but from the increase of population a second town has been formed, beyond this inclosure, and this has heen fortificd, after the modern manner, by John IV. with eleven bastions, tira demi-bastions, a horn-work, a fort with four bastions, and another in a pentagon form. The place is eommanded by the castle of St. Philip, erected by Philip IH, of Spain; in it is a numerous traiu of artillery and a fine cistern. On the shore, about aniile off, is the tower of Outad, a light-house joined to a small redoubt, called As Veeras. There are 1100 inhabitants, many of them in aííluent circumstances. Its red wine is 362 CAMPAIGNS INr SPAIN AXD PORTUGAL.

í?*?íu." c dine wine is most exccllent. Pari ugal. E*trriiiRdiin. The Portusmesc Estremadura (according to Du- mouriez) oti<>ht, in àll wars, to bc a primary Mililary obser- .... ' vatwiu of i)u- object with' the Spaniards. This fertile province mouriez on tuis " * * proYiuec. Cfm supply an abundance of provisious for an army that would die of hunger in any otlicr part of Portugal. The Tagus facilitates the carriage of stores and amnninition to Lisbon, which is the point whither Spain nmst tend whcn she means to make peace to indemnify herself for ]ier losses by sea, and treat upon a perfeet equality with her most inveterate focs. Her own weakness even, and the fear of not sueceeding in the other points of attack, ought to spirit her up to a vi- gou rous assault on this quarter; this plan of war- farc must be rapid, without baggage and without sieges.—The event of a battlc is doubly hazard- ousfor. the enemy; contributions in kind would fced the'army, and those imposed in specie upon Lisbon would defray the expense of the campaign; but the attack must be resolute and steady, tlie country well explored, and the manoeuvres executed with decision and promptitude. This province, liowever, is susceptible of a strong defence, by reason of its great unevenness of surface, and of the muhitudc of good positíons that inay bc taken to protect the capita!. Vilia . MTLITARY V1EW OF THE PENÍNSULA.. 363

Velha and Abrantes" are known to be hnportant ®°A^IJ; posts, but the Portuguese have.never yet at-r J^>f^/ tempted a stand there. i The plain of Santarém Etocmadur*. and the heights of Alenquer may be occupjed to great vadvantage as a means of defence, and the campaign may be rendered bloody and indecisive by desultory engagements; even the metropolis, though an open place,' may be defended incli by ineh if .the Portuguese be resolute, and its eonquest may hecoine a work of bloodshed and diffi? culty* . ; ,

, Alentejo is one hundréd ãnd forty miles long by Alentei», eighty wide, bordering northward on Portugal, Estremadura, and Biera, eastward on Spanish Estremadura, to the sou th on Algarve, and westward i on.. part; of Portuguese Estremadura and the Atlantic. Its soil various, and in extremes either of fruitfulness or arid sandyness. The clima te unhealthy, from the want of springs and rivers. It yields great quantities of coro, wine, lemons, citrons, and oranges; it has quarries of fine stone and the various'ri eh marbles, white, green, and red, of Estremoz, Borba, Villa, Vi- çosa, Setuval, and Arabida; and the clays of Mor- temer o Novo and Estremoz, which furnish tbeir potteries. This province, the constant theatrelof Spanish invasion, is covered with fortified places. 364 CAMPAIÒNS IN SPAÍN ANÍ) PORTUGAL

It is divided into eight jurisdictions, containin£ four cities, upwards of one hundred boroughs, and The province». about two hundred and eighty thousand inhabitants. Évora. The corregedoria of Évora' has one city and twelve burghs. The eity is of great antiquity, the residence of Viriatus and Seutonius, to whòtft it owes its celebratcd aqueducts (Agõa dè Prata) and the towers of its waíls. Thé butchers shambles, in the progress-of changeful time, liave stood on thecolonnade of a templeof Diana. John III. for the security of bis residence, strengthened it with modem fortifications. It is surrounded with twèlve bastions and two demi-bastions, with a sqtiarc fort of four bastions and four ravelins, through which passes the aqueduet of Lectorius. The city was taken and retaken betwcen Juan of Áustria and the Portuguese. Eitreraoz. Estremoz, a pretty town,-in a fertile country, is the residence of the govemor of the provínce. It has much pomp of fortification, with it should seem little utility. It is surrounded by ten bas* tions, three demi-bastions, several ravelins, and a eovered way. The castle, which is antient, was strengthened by four modem bastions and two demi-bastions; But it is commanded oothe sontli by a hill, on which is the square fort of St. Joseph, With four bastions and a ravelin^ eovered by a MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. S6$ tenaille towards the country. To the north, at a *°A°*J considerable distance, however, is» another height '^^Ç***' defended by the redoubt of Sal Barbara. The provires. Still Estremoz is incapable of defcnce, from the decayed state of its ill-constructed fortiíications. Beja, (tbc Pax Júlia of Cassar,) whose ou vedo- Jkj». ria compiises also three burghs, is situated about three leagues from Évora, and one from the Gua- diana, in a charmíng country. Tbc fortiíications of Moura, scarcely a míle More™. from the Guadiana, were ruined in the war of the Spanish succession. Ourique, the seat of the ouvidoria of Campo do campodoOt- Ourique, is famous for the victory of Alphonso n(1UC, o ver the Moors. It belongs to the order of St Jago. That of Villa Viçosa, containing twelve burghs, viUaViç©»*. belong to the house of Bragança. The town, indifferently fortified, is situated in the midst of a very fertile plain, six leagues to the west of Elvas, famous for a considerable battlc of the duke of Schomberg, at the beginning of the last century. Its palace is fine, and the park well stocked with deer. Elvas, which owes its origin to the Gauls, and EI»«. wbose corregedoria contains an episcopal city and six burghs, is five lçagues westvvard of the Spanish city of Badajos. [66 CAMPAIGXS Iíí SPAIN" AND PORTUGAtV

Its frontieris elevated, yet eommanded by several heights, tlie two of whieh next the town are •n,e provinccs. fortifietl. Its own fortifieatíons are not extensive ; four royal bastions, the same number of demi-bastions, and a redan. On tbe sou th is Fort la Lipple,' begun by the famous general from whom it takes its name, but which are of themselves ill-ealeu- lated -to defend the place, and requiie a strong garrison. oilt.has a beautiful and expensive aqueduet. oiivcnja. Olivença, seven miles from the Guadiana, on the left side, is opulent and pleasant, partieularly. the eastle. Campo Major, Campo Mayor, opposed to tlie Spanish eities of Albuquerque and Badajos, is a plaee of great im- portante " to the provinee. Count Sehomberg's. fprtiíieation of this place was mu eh injured by the explosion of a magazine. Portalegre. -The corregedoria of Portalegre lias an episcopal cj ty and twelve boroughs. Its city, on a gentle elevation, fifteen miles from the Spanish frontier, has antient fortifieations, but incapable of defence. It eontains 6000 inhabitants.

ArroncliM. Arronehes, fourided by the antient kings of Por* tugal, between Portelegre and Campo Mayor, and at equal distance from both, is fortified in the an* tient manner. MILTTARY VIEV.' OF THE PENÍNSULA. 36*7

00K Crato,' whose ouvidoria< contains twclve bnrghs,° ?.CHA P. 111..?* is inclosed with walls. It beiongs to a. priory of ^~~^~*~/ ° ' J Portugal. the order of Malta. The pwrinces.' That uf Avis lias seventecn bnrghs. The principal town is also surrounded by antient walls, and situatcd on a ri ver of the sanie liame. Its territory cxtends several leagues, and belongs to the order of the same name, of which it is the chief place. Alemíeio (says Dumouriez) lias been the per- Miiítary »- J x "* * marks ou thia petual theatre of triumph to the Portuguese, and p»»me& defeat to tlie Spaniards; nor could it.be otherwise. The Spaniards formerly maintained the ill- founded opinion, that Alemtejo oftered a passage to.Lisbon, beeause it is the post-road. Tlie Ta- gus, furnished with an army to oppose the passage, cannot be crossed; an army which enters Alem- tejo, cannot extend its hostilities bcyond that province, or at most to Algarve. But the conquest of these both woúkl effect nothing of importancey and can nevcr give a shock to the • Portuguese monarchy, whose strength is to be found in Lisbon, Oporto, and Merica. The strong plaees of Alemtejo are not in a statc to make any vigorous defence; but, besides the êx- pense employed and time lost in taking them, the çlimate is so fatal that an army, in spite of every precaution,and the utmost exertions of medicai 368 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

^cHxr^t* assistance, must necessarily fali a prey to hunger, thirst, and epidemic diseases. The Fortugucse Portugal. Tbe proriDces. cannot wish for a more fortunate circnmstance, in a war with Spain, than that their enemies niay commence and push on their operations in this provi n ce. Aigarre. Algarve (Al Garb, the west from the situation of its forni cr Afriean territory,) still preserves its regai title; in length about thirty leagues, and breadth about eight; it is bound by Alentejo on the north, Andalusia on the east, and on the south and wcst by the sea. The territory from Cape St. Vinccnt to Almeria, with the opposite coast of Africa, ineluding Cuta and Tangier, tlien in the possession of the Portuguese, were called also Al- garve. The province, containing four citics, twelvebo- xoughs, sixty villages, and near 70,000 inliabi- tants, is almost every where fertíle, and produees grain, wine, oil, figs, grapes, and sweet almonds, which yeld it a eonsiderable trade. The tunny fishery has also been highly advantageous to it. It is divided into two corregedorias and one ouvidoria. Ugw. Lagos, whose corregedoria contains, beside the city, seven burghs, is eighj; leagues from Cape St* Vincent, on the south-east shore of Algarve. Its bay, the entrance of which is protccted by a bat- .MrLTTAUY VIEW OF THE iPENINSU LA. 369 tery of cannon, though not without roeks, is sé- *?£*£* cure froiii winds at N.N.E. and capable of re- £^^7^ ceiving the largest ships. The town was built Algarve. by the Carthaginians and irregularly fortified, but has a good citadel, (Pinhão,) the reside»ce of the governor and captains-general. Five forts ílefend the coast from Lagos to Sagres, a spaee of seven leagues. . Villa Nova de Portemayo, three leagues to the Paruai»** east of Lagos, on a ri ver which fornis a spaeious and secure harbour, a mite broad and three fathoms deep; the entrance is, however, dangerous, and requires a pilot; it is navigable to Sylves with boats only, though at less tlian three leagues distance. Forts defend eacli side of the bar on the east and west, tbose of St. John and St. Catha- rine. Tavira corregedoria comprises a city and three Tavira, burghs; the city stands on a bay of that name, six leagues from Faro and five from Ayainonte, the Spanish frontier of Andalusia. The harbour is protected by two forts. Over the river Légua, which divides the town, is a fine stone bridge. The inhabitants are reckoned at 5000. Loulé is a small antient town, three leagues from t^ Faro north by west. Alcontim, the last town in Algarve, on the Aicontim. frontier of Andalusia, and opposite to San Luear

VOL. í. B b 370 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

^HAyíií' ^e Guadiana, contains only a thousantl souls, It is five leagues from Castromarim. Faro, ' wbose ouvidoria * contains two cities, (one episcopal,) a single burgh, and a few villages, is six. leagues from Tavira, and tbirteen from thc 'fortress of Quarteira on the coast; tbe town, wliieli is fortified, was burnt by the English in 1596*, after being plundered; aceording to tbe erudite translator of the work of H. Dumouriez, tbe library of the famous bishop Osovio formed a part of tbat plunder, and became tbe sbare of the earl of Essex, who gave it to tbe university of Oxford.* It bas considerable trade and 8000 inhabitants. A constant intereourse is bere kept up with Gibral- tar. ' . ' E»toj. At about a league to tbe north, bctween Faro and Loulé, wbere stood the Roman station Osso- noba, so called from the promontory of tbe same name, is the village of Estoy, raised out of.its ruins, but representing nothing of the antient grandeur. . i obsenations of Of tbe provinee of Algarve Dumouriez . re- Duujouriez...... , marks:—T.hat it is almost unpenetrable to thet Spaniards, nor, indeed, would an entrance into it be attended with any advantage. In the various

* Account of Portugal, &c. p. 56, note by the translator. MILITAR7 VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 371

wars, therefore, between the two nations it lias remained undisturbed, holding foVth to the inva- ponugai. der noother tcmptation but internai wretchcdness. Ai^nr Its sea-coasts might be invaded and its tunny- fishery ruined, but, in general, the inhabitants of Cadiz and the coast of Andalusia have, in that respect, more to lose than to giin. The coast might be made to furnish good seamcn if the govcrnment encouraged such a design ; but, after ali, this province is of little importance or utility to the Portuguese monarchy, thougb it is dignified with the pompous title of a kin&dom.

Having thus cxhibited a topographical sketeh

ofv the provinccs, it only reniains to the present plan to run over a central route, from the coast of

Portugal to the Spauish frontier, in the same k manner as has already bcen done in the imaginary; circles deseribed in Spain. To take in a few objcets of interest in the vicinity it is necessary to retrace the coast northward, perhaps as far as Peniche, a strong sea-port Peaicha. with a good harbotir and a citadel, seated on a rocky península, about sixteen leagues from Lis- bon. Around the bay is < an arid sandy beach, diversified only with long rushy grass. Óbidos Obidoi. »bg 372 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AXD PORTUGAL. also a town, about twelve leagues N.N.E. from Lisbon, whiehhas astrongeastleon a rock. PottugaL Vimiera. At ten leagues is Vimiera, by a road rugged aud a stecp whieh winds along the coast; tliç country passed by it is bare, but along the vales are seen seattered' villages, whose white walls, peeping from the foliage of lauréis and olive- trees, aíford an agreeable variety, and whose commons yield the dclightful fragrance of the myrtle intermingled with the finest heaths. Vimiera is sereened from the sea, from whieh it is distant a league, by lofty mountains, betweçn whieh runs the Maceira, a small river. Along its banks passes, the road fiom Vimiera, Amial. by Ilamachal, to Anual, for some time on an open flat, afterwards unequal and rugged, then through a forest of pines, and again through agreeable vales, fertile in corn and vines. In the neighbour* hood are fine woods, and a league distant is Torres Vedras, by whieh runs the little river Si será. Two routes pass from henee to Lisbou, those by Monte Goree and by Mafra. » Cintra. By the latter the principal objeets of notice are first the small,. neat town of Cintra, delightfully situatc at thç foot of a stupendous rocky mountain,, with a royal palace of Gotliie arehitec- turc; it is much frequented by perons of distirje- MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 373 tion for the benefit of the sea-breezes and its supe- *$l*u. rior clcanlincss. There is a good inn kcpt by an ^^T*"' Irishwomau. A fertile valley cxtends from Torres Vedras, variegated by agrceable villages through which the road winds, and then, crossing a mountain, passes a deep bottom covered with wood; in which, nevertheless, is a smail bamlct witli a modest white churcli. OH. the left is secn the royal park of Mafra, three Mafra. leagues in extent, surrounded by a strong high wall, and covered with lofty cork-trees, sheltering beautifu! deer. From dirTerent points the views are beautifuí, particularly that of the gigantic pile of Mafra, with its gilded cupolas, between the rocky crags of Cin- tra, having on its right the Atlantic Ocean in ali its variegated grandeur. The royal palace and convent is nevertheless si» tuated unfavourably, owing to the origin of its foundation, (no unusual one in catholicism,) by John V. who, recovering from dangerous sickness, determined thus to accommodate liis poorest friery. This turned out to be twelve Franciscans passing their lives in bleak and squalid poverty iu a liut on this spot. It oecupied fourteen years in buildirig", being rlntshed only in 1731. It is construeted of white 374 CAMPAXGNS IN 8PAIN AND PORTUGAL.

DOO KI. marble, with thirty-seven windows in front, and CMAP. III. ^ the palace, convent, and church, between tliem Portugal. forni a square of seven hundred and thirty feet. The ascent is by a noble fligbt of 162 marble steps. Here is a good pórtico of twelve colossal síatues of saints in white Carrara marble. The whole contains eight hundred and seventy rooms, and 5SUO windows. In the church, lined by pannels of the most exquisite marbles, are good basso relievos and six organs. The convent has three hundred eells, twenty feet by eighteen, and a good library. The nuuiber of mcnks here has not latterly reached a hundred.

Chillieros. From Mafra, a bleak rugged eountry leads to the beautifully-situated village of Chillieros, on the banks of the Carvosiera, over whieh is a handsome bridge, and surrounded by orehards of orange- trees.

Monteie vai. At Montelevar, a smaller village on the left, among limestone-hills, are the first arches of the aqueduet of Lisbon. The watêrs are here colleeted by a large marble reservoir on the side of the road. Bcllas. The niarket-town of Belias suceceds with a good inn, a palace of the Conde de Pombiero, and a garden in the Freneh st;, le, sháded with lofty trees. In its neighbourhood, in the reign of John II. was discovered the tonibof Viria tus, of wbich itis MILITART VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 375

! painful to recolleet none eould bc found to under- ' *°A°*,; take the preservation, and still more so, if it be p^2£* true, that, being given to one who carried it to Ma- deira, it was there lost! The church of Belém, rendered immortal by Camoens and Mickle, is deemed thefinest specimen of Arabesque Gothic in existence. Through Belém, Lisbon is reached without any otber objcct worthy even of rcmark, unless the villas (quintas) of Benéfico, chiefly belonging to foreign merchauts, aronnd which are good gardens, watered from deep draw-wclls, turned by inules, and the aqueduct of Alcântara, The latter, like ali the public buildings here, is buiit of whitc marble. The aqueduct, without entering into the hydrau- lic question, whether or not, from the surfacc over which it carries the product of many springs, it be prcferable to the modern conveyance by which the water descends or rises agreeably to its original levei,* is certainly an astonishing and beautiful work.

* The presenl writer does not presume, nor indeed is he prepared, to discuss this question j but, as lo the Portuguese continuing ignorant of the common principie of water finding its own levei, nothing surely is less to be conceived, from some of their works. And it is presumed that even the Romans, cxceliing as they did in every thing of this kind, wcro not ignorant of these 376 * CAMPA1GNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUOAL.

BOOK r. xhe water by tlie aqueduct is conveyecl to a large *»--*~Y~^ reservoír near the north-west extrcmity of Lisbon. Roule from xubon to ihe Jn passing the valley of Alcântara, it unites two spain. ijills by thirty-fonr arcbes, some S32 feet liigh.—■ The pillars supporting tbem are square, and the largest 33 feet each side at the base. Before its crection, Lisbon suflered nmch from want of water; and much is yet paid for the conveyance of water to thehouses, in a clumsy nianner, by barreis, by carriers (gallegos), as ís yet the case, strange to say, in some of the suburbs even of the metropolis of Biitain. Near Belcm also is the muscuni of natural bistory at Ajuda, eontaining many local curiosities, among the most trifling of w-hich is a large tube of calcareous earth froin a pipe of the aqueduct of Alcântara, which may probably expiam the cause of the supposed salubrity of Lisbon, by a chemical result of its water. The dungeons beyond the royal palace for state-

opcrations, yet, as is leamed frora Pliny, &c. they erecled aqueducts at the most astonishing expense even in the provinces, and sent architects from Rome for tlie purpose. And Frooíinus, the Roraan xnililary aulhor, wlio treated en Ihís as well as every other, suBject of utility, in bis treati.se De Aquaductibus UTòíS Romtr>\s çonsidered by the learned a? evincing greal skill in his applkatioti ofthe mathcmatks to water. Life. qf Frontinus, (1811) p. CO. MILITAEY VIEW OF THE PENTNSULA. 377 prisoners liave already been deseribed, and thcy BOOK r. fori» a subject too sombre for thcsc pagcs. v^^^

Itotiie from Li** n t0 1C 8 rrom-r-, Lisbon,T • 1 •in a nnhtary• • vicw,• three1 routes to k°>ush fromier. *' ^P ^ the Spanísh frontier nmy bc particularly mentioned. On the north by Coimbra and Viseu to Almeida and Ciudad Rodrigo; on tlic soutli by Elvas and Badajos; and centrally np tlie riglit bank of the Tagus, by Santarém and Abrantes, throngh Villa Veliia, Castel Braueo, and Guarda, towards Almei- da and Ciudad Rodrigo. Taking the central, and quitting Lisbon by tlie eastern extremity, the Praga de Commcrcio and admiraity being passed, a raised terraee for a time runs along tlie shores of tlie Tagus. On the right oceur buildings of a haudsome and picturesque appearanee, and some which cross the road by means of an extensive arch.—The ehurch of Mount Cavalry too exhibits its curtous carving in wood, of the Passion, and is otherwise a fine strueture. The Tagus aj>pcars a lake, and beyond it the distant inountaiuous distriet. Vineyards and olive- trees, enelosed with high stone-walís, and víllas, (Quintas,) overhangiug the water, that might rival those of Baias or the Larian Lake, bring us to Saecavem, a village two leagues and a half from Saccavera- the capital. 378 CAMPAIG.VS líí SPAIN AKD PORTUGAL. ,

It stands on tbe banks of the Saccavem Jakc,

fornied byJ theconflux of five small rivers on theír Portuga!. sac«avcm. passage to the Tagus; and yields the right of a stroHg position for tbe defence of Lisbon, of which tbe left is forni ed on the lieights of Bellas, and the centre on the bigb voad to O porto. viitaFraacade Leaving tbe salt-pits on tbe right, Villa Franea is approaehed. , Tíiis Jittlc, yct bustling, village has an interest to Englishmen, from baving been lirst settled by some of tlicirancestors, as well as thatof Almeida, at the mouth of the Tagus, when, on a crusade, tbey assisted Alonzo in the eonquest of Lisbon. It is an intermediate tlepot between the capital and Santarém. /. The road continues for a few leagues pkturesque and beautifully fertile, hedged with aloés and the Indian fig, and interspersed with vil)ages and or- Axaraboji. chards, which cease on the approach to Azam- buja. Thè country now becomes flat and dreary, and oceupíed by corn-lands. The straggling village of Azambuja does not re- lievc it. During the winter the flat country is under water, as before observed, by the inundations of the Tagus, and oecasíons the road to Santarém to take a circuitous route. Beyond Azambuja, however, vines, • eorn, and MILITARY V1EW OF T1IE PENÍNSULA. 379 olives, diversify the country to Santarém, which ^OKI. has already been suffieiently described. Intcrcst ^^^ can never fail to arise from its pristine grandcur slowly decaying, and its roble prospccts, particularly toward the distant rivers of Almeira, across the Tagus, into a fertile and wcll-wooded country. Thcre are other points of raere magnificence. Santarém is quitted eastward by a stecp ravine, leading through what is called the lowcr town, and, after passing a small stream, by a bridge of a single arch, a spacious plain presents itself, of the richest soil in Portugal, and through corn-fields # and vineyards, inclosed by beautiful poplars; overan olive-covered hill is Ponte Almonda; 'and Ponte Aimcm

BOOK L edona projecting point of land; opposite to it is the mouth of thc Culebra, whose torrént, after Portugal. beavy rains, rushing dcstruetively on the houscs, has occasioned the migration to Barquinha, and consequent desolation of Tancos. Torre de Al- A quarter of a mile farther, in thc middlc of the mourol. Tagus, are the romantic ruins of the Torre de Al- mourol, an old Moorish castle, standing on a rock of granite. It is planted with poplars, and over- growu by the prickly Indian fig, (figo (to inferno,) with whieh lhe Lisbon ladíes wound the military novíce less tenderly than with their ilne black eyes. Prom Tancos an extensive heath is passed to the olivc-plantations on the banks of the Zêzere; and a bridge of boats over it to the town of Pun-

Pimhcte. liete,' busy in tlie provi sion of quinces, apples, and chesnuts, for the market of Lisbõn. Thc fort stands under tlie ruins of an old castle, on the extreme of a point of land formed by the' junction'of the Tagus and Zêzere.

Abrantes. Two leagues, tlírough groves of olives and gronps of chesnut-trees, produce Abrantes, on its hills of granite, covered with orchards of olives. From tlie topof the castle inimensc forests of pines, chesnuts, olives, and poplaTS, interspersed with green

lawns> sandy clifTs, and glittering hamlets, greet the eye with sensible pleasure. CAMPAICNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. 381

• Desçending the hill of Abrantes and crossing ^J^J < P v- the Tagus,° ' the road turns to the left throngh° fine Portugal.!r* ~ ^^' woods, heaths, and large forests of cork-trees, and valleys bedecked with myrtles, boney-sucklcs,. Avood-roses, strawberry-trees, and the aromatic cistus. The small village of Santa Luzia lias nothing s,mtaLim« worthy of notice, exccpt a respectable residence o.r,two; and Gavaon is little better, consisting of Gavaon. a. few meanhouses on the sumniit of a hill. Froni: it a heath, covering immense rocks of granite, and. varíegated qnly by the hardy oak, conducts to Niza, the remains of an anttent town, part of Niza,ctNU«. whose wall remains, and the ruins of an old eastle with a square towcr. Hence the road winds aloug the sides of green hillsj.açross a sandy heath, tillithe river of Niza abruptly breaks: upon. the view, with its rustic bridge o£ four square piers, over which it passes to the opposite side, of a stcep mountain, (one of the Sierra. dç S. Miguel>) and by an old chapei, with .white wajjs, surrounded by cork-trees. With great diíticnlty the road passes afong the. Sierra, de S. Miguel, and by a rapid descent to the pass of VillajVelha, where the Tagus rushes through, vaia Vem». a,ehasm fonned by itsown power., 4 few miserable hovels, beneath tbe.brow of an, 382 CAJIFAIGNS IJÍ SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

impending mountain, compose the antient city of

Tuttugal. "Villa Velha. A» Carnadon, A bad road, sometimes through sandy plains Castcl Branco. covercd with' ever-grcen oaks, and afterwards by narrow and steep defiles, leads to the miserable As Carnados, 011 the summitof a rock, and thence to Castel Branco. ■ • The town runs along the side of a granite hill, between the Liria and the PoncuI, encircled by its double wall and four gates, its flank of seven towers, and once-formidable castle. To the northward are extensive olive-plantations; but the object of chief interest is the game, which, particularly hares, rcd-legged partridges, quails, &c. are plentiful and cheap in the town. At&laya. • At four leagues distance, is the small village (povoa) Atalaya, in which more comfort is to be obtained thanin some others of more importance; Alpedrinha. and at another league is Alpedrinha, embosomed in oaks, in the centre of an acelivity. , . ,

Campiuha. Campinha sueceeds, in a bottom surrounded by lofty hills of granite, surmounted by oak, in the most romantíc sequestration of solitude. • * Ali is now wild beauty.—A stream from the ri ver Sezera forms a mountain-torrent, foaming over massy rocks; and the road winds alteruately over the mountain top, or by its side, into the deep valley, till it falis into a plain bounded on MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 383 the left by the Sierra (1'Estrella. The road itsclf B00K T- «HAP. III. s is, however, firni and sood: and tlic country «V-p^^**-/ * Portugal. covercd with short lierbage. Through grovcs of chesnut-trces Castanheira is Ca$tanWira. approached, lowly scated in the centre of*the plain, between two branches of the stream, (Sezera,) over which are two bridges, and thence to Belmonte and its víílagc. Thesc are tlie remains of a hill-fort and its de- Belmonte, pendencies. Tlie castle is proniinent, and' the ríches of the village a grove of chesnut-trces. Tlie road-hence fornis a more agreeable subjeet for the amiable taleuts of the painter tlian what ' Dumouriez calls the interesting seience whiclí flatters the furiòns passions of man,* being described, l)y an agreeable writer on the spot^f as possessing every chhrm of the picturcsqúe,—everi to-the humble1 interest of " now and thèn an'1 antient church, with a cemetery and a* gray ' stone-crucifix covered with moss or ivy';" and " little hamlets hanging on tlie rocks, seattering forth blue wreaths of smoke over the dark browri ■ woods." • -1 * Guarda, already deseribed, near the';source of Guarda. the Mendigo, on the Sierra d'Estrella, with'its tur- V1 * Aecount'of Portugal, page 53. .. » »

t Dr. Ncale, physician to the forces. 384 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAItf AND POltTCGAL.

BOOK i. retted stone walls and castle, succeeds. Thence CítÀP. tlt. the road is over a bleak plaiu, variegated only by Portuga]. miserable villages, stone walls, vast blocks of gra- ni te, and oak trees, with abnndance of white, or Spanish, broom. After passing several streams, the singular, biit handsome, bridge of three arches, over the river Coa, leads to the mountain-plain on which stands Aimcidt. Almeida, and the Portuguese frontier towards Spain.

The present topographieal sketch cannot be better concluded than by the following general remarks from an important authority, to which it has already been prineipally indebted; the reader, however, keepiag in mind that the writer is to be understood as drawing his deductions in 1766. General obser- Portugal is watered by four prineipal rivers, Tations of M. ' Dumouríez on which may serve to direct both its orrensive and the defence of . • Portugal. defensive o]>erations.m One of these rivers, the Guadiana, which runs from the east to the south- west and south, enters into Portugal betwcen Xerumena and Olivença, in Alemtejo, and serves, in its course, as a natural ditch to that provihee and the little kingdom of Algarve, dividing the latter from Andalusia. Though the Guadiana is a considerable river, it cannot be emplóyed to any purposes of utility in the present war, from the MILITAR? VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 385 small importance of the provinces through which *££* *; it flows, and because it is incapable of being navi- J^TT""^ gated by boats for more than thírty-six miles from Gcncra, obífp. Mertola to the sea. The other rivers run from JJÍ™iríI ™ east to west. The Minho divides a part of Gali- portugaL** 9 cia from a part of Entre Minho e Douro; but it does not serve as the least defence to the latter province, which may be attacked without crossing th is ri ver. The Douro, coming from the kingdom of Leon, enters Portugal; and, after dividiug it, emptíes itself into the sea, near the city of Oporto. It is navigable by boats from Lamego, a course of above fifty miles; its banks are ric-h, and it may be rendered very serviccable if that place should be the object of military operations, But the most impurtant ri ver of Portugal, the key of Lisbon, and the nursing mother of tliose armies which enter into that kingdom, is the Tagus.— For about seventy-two miles, from Alcântara to Abrantes, its course is interruptcd by rocks and falis, and, consequently, incapable of navigation: but from Abrantes to the sea, which is ninety miles;—it is navigable by vessels of considerable burthen, which may convey ali the necessary supplies of war. Its right bank, thougli mountainous, is very abundant in provísions and cattle, and is covered with villages, while the left is marshy and barren. From Santarém, upon the VOL. I. C C 386 CAMPAIGNS IN SFAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKI. nv]]t bank, to Lisbon, a distance of fifty miles,

Portugal.>-^v^'^' tlie declivityJ is so °ffreat. * that the first of thesc Gtoerai obser- ^ovras commands the latter, and is the key of the Dumouric* on country. Several small rivers discharge them- Poitugai!100 ' selves imo tlie Tagus; the principal of which are the Elga, (which divides Beira from Spain,) the Ponsul, tlie Laca, thc Zêzere, and the Rio Mayor. This state of the country increases tlie means of defence, and the difficulties of attack. Ali these small rivers, which dcscend from the mountains of Beira are very uneqnal and dangerous in their coursc; somctimes tliey appear only as shallow brooks, and some ti mes as rapid torrents, which inundate the adjoining country. Thc Count de Lippe, in 1762, being encamped at Punhetc, after tlie march of the Spaniards towards Vi lia Velha, and having the Zêzere, with its bridges, in his rear; this ri ver, in consequence of violent rains, was so greatly inercased, that tlie bridges were broken down, and he found himself inclosed, without resource, between the Tagus and the Zê- zere. If the Spaniards had known, or could have imagined, this event, (and a knowlcdge of tlie country would have informed them of it,) they would have takcn him and his wliole army without the discharge of a single musket Tlie Spaniards discovered little or no knowledge of thc position of the mountains of Portugal, their MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 387 chatns, tlieir extcnt, thcir heights, or their de61es3 *°°*t£ whcn they attempted to penetrate to Oporto, by ^Qí^^ the Traz os Montes ; they wcre içnorant tliat the General <*««- two chains of mountains of Marom and bf Geres J™;^ forni an insunnpuntable barrier between thts pro- i^^g^ vince and that of Oporto; and that, to pass from Chaves to Oporto, it is absolutely necessary to procure the native-guides, with their mules, which, aecustomed to this journey, pass through narrow ways covered with wood, and on the brink of horrid precipices, where fifty peasants might stop the march of an ariny. In the same manner, whcn, after the taking of Almeida, the Spaniards had advanced to Guarda, to get in a straight tone to Lisbon by Coimbra, they were ignorant that the Sierra, or mountain, of Estrella formed an im- penetjable harrier, and that they must either return to the banks of the Tagus, or, by keeping along the Douro, regain the sea-shore, and thus form a march of two sides of a triangle to get round the Sierra d'Estrella. Portuga] is very mountainous; the province of Alentejo alone is varied by plains, which lias bcen considcrecl as an inducement to make it the theatre of war, forgetful of the true system, that is, to suit the war to the country, and not the country to the war. AH the mountains of the Spanish península are cc 2 388 CAMPA1GNS INT SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

cí^í ramifications of the Pyrcnees, which, taking dif- rim^f^^ ftrcnt directions, on onc side extend to thc ocean, General obscr- which they enter by Galicia and Portugal, and 011 vatious of M. Diimouriezon the other to thc Meditcrranean sea. which they tliedefenceof Portugal. cross to Africa, formiog, by their sunimits, the various islands that appear between Spain and the Afiiean continent. The particular branches of these mountains, which pass iiito Portugal, rim from east to west; tlie mountains which enter it by a part of Galicia and Leon rather incline to the south; and they ali form a natural barrier to thc Portuguese provinces. The mountain of Geres and that of Ma- rom divide the Entre Minho e Douro from Traz os Montes; their branches extend as far as Beira, where they are denominated Sierra de Alcoba and and Sierra d'Estrella. Other vamifications of the mountains of Guadarania, which separate the Old from the New Castile, traverse the kingdom of, Leon, and, stretching onwards under the namc of, Sierra de Gata, enter Portugal by the distriets of Sabugal, Pena Macor, and Castelbranco, continuing their courscalso by Guarda, Viseu, and Coim- bra, On the left bank of thc Tagus are branches of the Sierra Morena and the Sierra Constantina, which enter Alentejo by the way of Moura and Serpa, and whieh form several ridges, terminating MILITAHY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 389

at the Guadiana, the principal of which is the *££**' Sierrade Aroche. On the other side of the Gua- ^—-v-*-* Portugal. diana the chain continues through the kingdom General obscr- orn Algarve, Aí wliich, . i ít• divides ,- ♦ i from r AJentejo,AI • and Dumounczoni vationsofM» lhe dcfenc«of runs as far as CapeSt.Vincent, and parallel to the Portugal. sou th coast of Portugal, under the namcs of Siena de Caldeira and Sicrra de Monchique. Portugal is so far from being deficient in fortified places that it posscsses more than are necessary for its protection, for, if they wcre ali suííi- ciently garrisoned, its army would be so weakened as not to bc able to maintain a campaign. The inspection of forrified places is divided into two departments. The province of Beira lias not so many strong places as Alentejo, but it is neverthelcss almost irhpenetrable. The towii of Almeida, taken in 1762, possesses considerable strength, and it will be still stronger, from the repair of its works now carrying on by colonel funck; but this town does not cover Lisbon, and serves only to guard the entrance into the Upper Beira, which the Spanish army can liave no inducemeut to obtain» That part of the country which comprchends Zebreira, (where the construetion of a fort has been prójected,) Idanha, Pena Macor, aud Alfayates, is the most necessary to defeud, which can be done with the least difficulty, from its own na» 390 CAMPATGNS INSPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK r. tural strèngth; nature has formcd it to be a front CtlAP. III. ° v~-~v—»-'/ to a Portuimcse army. and has marked out the Portugal. ° ■" r v i Gwimiobscr- places to be guarded. It woukl be very dilhcult vatiom of 51. . « 1 Dumouriczon to penetrate into it; an entrance can only be Portugal obtained through defiles which are almost impassable, though they were not defended. The province of Traz os Montes lias no strong places that are capable of defence; but the Spa- niards well know, by fatal experience, the consequence of carrying their arms into a province at once barren, mountainous, and difficult of access. Its strong places have been construeted in low situations, which are conimanded on a!l sides, such as Miranda, Outeiro, Bragança, and Chaves. This province is intersected by rivers, hollow ways, and mountains, particularly that of Marom, which covers Oporto, Braga, and the province of Entre Minho e Douro. Entre Minho e Douro possesses two principal places, Valença and Monção, which are but ill fortiíied, but whose condition will be inimediately improved, on a new plan; it is full of small forts and antient castles, the rematns of former wars, which may serve as posts to check an attempt of the enemy to penetrate to Oporto.—That city is entirely open and very opulent, and, while it is the only object of an invasion on that side, is well worth an attempt. At the mouth of the MILITARY VIJEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 391

Minho is the small town of Caminha, a regular B00K L ' ° CJ1AP. III. fortification. but commanded on ali sides,—a chef- V-^"V*~/ * Portugal. d'osuvre of scientiíic infatuation. General obscr- _,. . . vations of M. Inc strongest and most important pJace ín Dumoimcum the southern division, or the lert sidc of the Portuga Tagus, and, indeed, of ali Portugal, is Elvas, because the Spaniards cannot penetrate into Alen- tejo and leave this place behind thein ; as well as Almeida, it requircs so numerous a garrison as to prove an inconvcnient diminution of the strength of thearmy; it is an antient plaee with irregular bastions, and a corclon commanded by two mountains, upon which have been constructed the forts La Líppe and St. Lúcia. The town rises like an amphitheatre between theni. The fort of La Lippe is independent of tbe place; it is a square, with four bastions and a horn-work that is continued to the back of the mountain, and strengthened by several exterior works; it is very strong, in a very eJcvated position, and provided with case- ments which are bomb-pvoof; almost ali its batteries are covered, and it would be nearly impossible to raze its works. Ncverthelcss, this fort lias great defeets, many of its batteries are in the rock and would soon be dismantled by a powerful cannonade. The decltvity of the mountain is strengthened by mines, but their branehes are easily diseovered by observing the veins of earth 392 fcAMPAIGNS IN SPAlft ANJD PORTUGAL.

across the roek; this side, tberefore, although thtí most fortified, is very susceptible of attack, as it Portugal. G.ncraiobscr- possesses thc common fault of ali hom-works vatjpin ot" M. . . Donionriez on which carry the defeiiccs to too great a distance; Portugal. at the same time this fort, garrisoned with 2000 men, might sustain a long siege; it commands also thc country and the town, The fort St. Lúcia is composed of very antient indefensible works, aud might be taken with thegreatestease.; the Spaniards might establish thcmselves in.it during the whole war, bum or take the town, and blockup the garrison of fort La Lippe, whicb would then become entirely useless.

ljt There are many antient placcs and of little importance between the Tagus and the Guadiana; .theleft bank of the latter ri ver is covered with them. These places were of great usé in former wars, and are not altogether useless in those of the present time, because the taking of them will, atall events, cost time and money, interrupt the progressof anenemy, and would be attended with . no advantage. The leading object of the Portuguese, in a war with Spain, sliould be to cover botb sides of the . . Tagus; and for this purpose Castello de Vide, on the left bank, presents an excellent position; this iswell kuown,—and Funck has offered a plan for fortiíying it, which has been accepted. UILItÀRY VIEW Of THE PENÍNSULA, 393

■ The post of Olivença, on tlie side of Spain, ^^^^ Ivithout being very interesting, may be very of- p*^""*!"**^ fensive to the Spaniards, because it favours the General ©b*«. - i T, i Tation» of M. incursion of hght troops mto their Estremadura Dumouriwon the defence •( and Andalusia, and aífords thera a sare retreat, Ponugai in the same manneras Moura, Mourão, and Serpa. The sea-coast is defended by Setuval and the fort Sagres at the point of Cape St. Vinceut. Al- garve is impenetrable; and the islands of Tavira, behind which sliips, in time of war, may be secure from privateers, are fortified, though they received considerable injury from the great earthquake. Estremoz as well as Évora and Beja have no defence but the old walls with which they are in- vés ted. Portugal has about fifteen or twenty strong places, and not more than 8 or 10,000 men to gar- ■ rison them, without disabling its army from keep- < ing tbe field. The army of Portugal is more respectable than the Spaniards imagine, because they judge from the condition in which they saw it during the lasfc wan v To these general observations on the defence of ob^rratioMoí ° CaptElio*. the country the following are added, from the ■ treatise of an able British officer of artillery, captain Eliot, who either confirms or liberally 394 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

cSií.ní differs from the hígh authority which has been

Portuga]. " obsmationsof The best line of positions, says this oftíeer, tbat can be taken for the defence of the most important part of the khigdom may be drawn from the Douro along the Sierra d'Estrella, coinmencing, on the leftj at Lamego, passing by Momenta de Beira, Franeozo, ahd Celorico, to Guarda, ali of which are cxcellcnt stations, and the passes in their vi- cinities should be more or less strengthened by field-works. From Guarda the line may be thrown back behind the Zêzere, and extended to the Ta- gus, having the strong posts of Castello Branco and Abrantes in front of the riglit flank. An advanced line may be drawn from Castlc Melhor, on the Coá, by Almeida, Castello Bom, Alfaiates, and following the frontier line to the Tagus. Thcse Corps should bc eomposed chiefly of light troops and cavalry, suffieient to keep up the communication with the main body of the army. Guarda and Visca should bc the two principal stations, Coimbra, Thomar, and Leiria, stations for bodies of reserve, and the latter a principal magazine. Peniche, situated on .a small península on the cost, is already fOrtified; its defences might bé improved, and itwould afford an excellent spot for a depôt of stores and ammunition, from whence they may be conveyed in small cutters MIITTARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 395 or other vessels to either ílank: the isthmus which „„,„,,' conneeís Peniche with the main land is overflowed porlugai. at high water. Santarém is a good post, and, as oi»«rvattonsof ...... Capt EiloU long as the army is ín advance, a proper station for a small corps to watch the Tagus, should an eneniy be in possession of Alentejo. In addition to these a strong post ti on may be taken up for the defenee of Lisbon,—the right at Sacavém, passing by Lumiar, and the left at Alcântara; against an enemy advancing from Leiria the heights near Alcântara, the passes of *Roliça, Bu- cellas, Cabeça de Montachique, and Mafra, are of im portance,-and forni a strong line of defenee farther in advance. If the province of Alentejo is to be covered for a time Montalvão, Castello de Vide, Marvão, Portalegre, Aronchcs, and Elvas, should be oceupied; but this is not absolutely necessary and would extend the line too much. The covering of Oporto should be confined to Minho, the pass of Saiam onde, and the river Tâ- mega. The provinee of Traz os Montes will nearly defend itself, and iá of littlc consequence as long as the Minho, the Tâmega, and the left bank of the Douro, can be protected. It has been already stated that Elvas and Al- meida are the most fonnidable fortresses in the kingdom, yet by this it is not meant to infer thatthey are the most important,—far from it; 396 CAMPATONS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. Almeida, although of more consequence than Elvas, from its situation, is valuable only as an Portugal. nb^Mionsor a^vanced post Cpc Eiwt jn 0jjjcctjon t0 tjje remarks of general Dumou- riez on Almeida captain Eliot observes :—It may be necessary to remark tliat although there are no fortresses of any consequence on the Tagus, yet the forcing a passage on the right bank would ' be to encounter the main force of the kingdom 4 which is one of the strongest parts of it, and amongst roads wherean enemy would find thegreat- est difficulty in bringing forward hiscanwon, which, if.he received theslightcst chcck, must ali be abandoned. Abrantes, formerly surrounded witli antient walls, has been considerably strengthened by works heing thrown up for its defence since the arrival of the British troops. This place he must necessa- \ rily pass, as well as cross the Zêzere, ín order to ' turn , the grand position of the army on the "defensive; it is true a passage may, without any difficulty, he forced on the left bank of the Tagus, but then, an enemy is as far from the accomplish- ment of his projects as hefore, tlie ri ver forming an insuperable barrier if well defended :—where is ' the ohstacle that cannot be surmounted by the abilities of an experienced officer? More danger I conceive is to be apprehended • from an enemy turning the position from the MILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. '397 north, should he have previously made himself BOóK r. master of Oporto. and been enabled to cross the y-^Y**** Douro near the potnt, whtch, although nearly < - * impraeticable,..... is not impossible. .1 «

**• The national character of the Portuguese is, in ■ Huntn «d many respects, similar to that of tne bpaniards; a promtnent feature.is the same disposition tòin- dolence and pride, but they are more acuté; they have the same national zeal and spirit of iii- dependence, which excites hatred against- Spain and precludes a cordial amity with the Englishl- The manners of the northern provinces' hãve been compared withthoseof Scotland,—hospitable*,' sincere, brave, and full of national prejudicès; to those of the southare attributcd the reverse, and the' people of Lisbon most of ali, with the cxceptiori, of course, of the better informed. They are governed, says Dumouriez/ by a prejudice that no place can resist the attack of 'French besiegers, » The fidalgos, or grandees, of Portugal are better informed than those of Spain, but not more com- 'municative, and still more jealous. Those who frequentthe court possess whatare called the Vir- tues of courts in the extreme. ' Those only whose ■ particular attachment to the king is assured are S98 , CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. permitted to serve in the army; the rest live with little distinction. Portagal. MMinersaDd The women possess charms as peculiar as their euitoms. national character; with an exquisite colour, fine teeth, and beautiful hair, they are rather injured . than otherwise by their dress; that of tbe head, however, which is never covered, exhibits great care. They are animated, cleanly, and fond of admiration, and grace tbe boxes of tbe tbeatres not more with their beanty than by the modcst de- coram with which custom bas /estrained them. They are nevertheless coquctish; but tbe danger and dilTiculty of intrigue prevents tbe cvil which might otberwisc arise evcn from the little commu- nícation of tbe sexes. The dress of the man is a sort of non-descript mixture of European costume with tbe Spanish cloak. This people are not communicative, and assem - blies are rare. The national dance is tbe toffa, composed of couples, like the Spanish fandango, generally set in inotion by the guittar; it, of course, consists of much gesticulation, and is often accompanied by the voice, in a manner by no means calculated to improve its purity. There are bull-feasts, after tbe manner of Spain, but tbe number of accidents would seem to arguc MILITARY VIEW Of THE PENÍNSULA, 399 that they are Icss adroit. . Nothing is more com- ®^*x£ mon than to see persons of the first rank engaged £""r^f^"/ in them. In the time of M. Dumouriez*s visit, M«mers«n

# The singular raanner In whích the wine is conveyed ovet the mountains on mules, may be mentioned as curious; it is in a sort of packs, formed of hog-skíns, turned inside out, tlie seara» pitched for security; the whole surmounted by skins and the blankets beneath which both mau and beast repose. The animal is also shorn, and otherwise ornamented according to the taste of his master. 400 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

when urgctl occasionally, evince powers of which

Portugal. the inattentive observer would form no concep- ManiKTs and tion. «ustoroi. The general manners are considerably affected by thc heat of the climatc, and in proportion as the spirit of religion is disregarded, its exteriors seem to be reverenced to excess. In consequence, those exemptions which strangers enjoy in other catholic countries, from a criticai and constant attention to their ceremonics, is not to be expected here. To conciliate the people, these prejudices must be respected by ali. The streets of ali the towns are dark, dirty, and liable to an infinity of nuisances ; and the civil police is of little avail, notwithstanding the numerous dungeons and placcs of punishment, as must always be the case where the íirst considçration is not the prevention of crimes. LiUratur*. Literatare, thc sure test of the manners of a people, is at a low ebb with the Portuguese. The Lusiad of Camoens is not yet equalled, and the conquest of Malacca has not been lately surpassed, Ferreira is, however, the best poet to become acquainted with in Portugal. History has received few accesslons to the de-» cades of Barros, and Portuguese Biography has few of the delightful charms which it exhibits in other languages. Theology, liowever, has pro- VILITARY VrEW OF THE PENÍNSULA.„ 401 duced more eloquence than could liave been ex- *J£*iÍ! pected, uneler the influence of the inquisition, and ^^^/ many preachers have appeared deserving of their Mannmana celebrity. The best French authors have been translated. Afusic has advanced, and the opera has long had great claims to the highest credit. The language of Portugal has retained more of the Latin tonguc, thoughrof course much more corrupted than that of any other country.*

Of the civil economy of Portugal, .what relates Cmi economy to its com mercê must naturally claim the íirst placc in any iclation ; yet this is a subject so cntirely connected with that of Great Britam, for a

-*vi» » » j * »Thc verses in praise of St. Úrsula and her eleven Uiousand virgíns are quoted as a good specimen of this affinity of the languages.

* Canto tuas palmas, famosos canto triumphos, * Úrsula, diviuos martyr concede favores; Subjectas sacra nympha, feros animosa lyrannos, Tu phasnix, vivendo ardes, ardendo triumphas. Illustres generosa choros das Úrsula bellos ; Das rosa bellas rosas, fortes das sane ta columnas j ^Eternos vivas arros, o regia planta! •■*"> * Devotos cantando hymnos, invoco favores. £ í Tiara puras nymphas amo, adoro, canto, eelebro, # Per vos felices annos, o cândida turba, - *, Per .vos inijumcros de Christo spero favores* VOL. I. D d Í02 CAMPAIGNS IVIFAIK ÀND PORTUGAL.

PPPK i. i0I1(r series of years, and wbicli involves so many ,^-""Y^^ hatiohal conàíderations, exclusive of the meie de- níraicconomj. tail, that "notbhig farther would seèm proper heré 'thon to gcnerally statc, that its importance and its •concfuct has borne a relation to that of the country with which it has sustained so intiniate a con- 'nection. The ■coíirít dXEyras, among the improvements which he pròjcctèd in various clepartmehts, resolved to make a general register of the lands, for the purpose of their appreciation and cultivation. The marquis de Pombal substituted corn for onè- third cf the vines in his time, hut without suc- "cess; and agriculture remains álmòst in its primitive state. Cultivation, however, has made some progress within the last twenty years. The province of Alentejo, for instance, which, in the time of M. Dumouriez, was entirely uncultivated, according to late writers, is among those parts which produce the greatest quantity of corn. Still more than a third óf the lànd 'is saul to lie waste, and the remainder to suffer matèrially from the neglect of agricultural improvement The coui.try is, in fact, a vineyard, and a third of the corii necessary for home consumption is not produced, yet Entre Douro e Minho is the province which, 'with Alentejo, yields the'jnost 1I1LITARV VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 403

, , Estremadura and Beira *produce much Incjiarç ??.?CO A P. fMj,»T^ com, of which the leavps are greedily devoured by ^"T^ cattle, and the grain makes palatable bread. Ruraleconomy. The cultureof the vhie, olivc, and melon, however, obtain every attention. The port-wine, for England, is chiefly derivcd from the northern provinces; the oi! is often ill-flavoured, from the mode of preparation for the press; the melon, in ali its variety, is exquisite. Butter and cheese, except at Chaves, are rare and ill-made. Oxen are well-formed, beautifu!, and active, but not sufficiently numerous.; calves may not, therefore, be killed at ali times. In draught,Athe oxen are excellent. The sheep are smal!, and require a strong defence of dogs from the wolves. Pigs, as in some parts of Spain, are fed and fat- tened in largc droves. Poultry is produced in sufiicient quantities. Game, of ali sorts, plentiful. Some of the vegetables are not scarce, particularly potatoes; and there is no want of fruit, ex» cept the species more prevalent in England.

The climate cannot be deemed intemperate, curaste, since it is moderated in the hottest seasons by the seá-breeze. Five months of the year are wet, with no 'ordinary raíns, and the seven dry are, occasionally, deformed by hurricanes. Earthquakes, pd2 404 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAlN ANt> PORTUGAL.

as is too well known, are frcquent in a greater or less degree; and igneous matter is supposed to be Portugal. in continuai agitation about Lisbon, from the bi- tuminous vapours which often cover the Tagus»

Miiitwy econo- Of tlic ordinary military cconomy of Portugal] my. there cannot, with some few qualifications, be a more perfect picture than that given by M. Du- mouriez on bis visit, and confinned by various other writers since that period, nor one more necessary to be kept iu vicw at the present time, tliougli not with invidious nor unnecessary caution. Formation of ;rne army was coinposed of from 8 to 10,000 men, of a class inferior to peasants, wtthout uní- forms, without arms; begging alins or assassina- ting for a livelihood; and the officers of these troops were scrvants, who mounted behind the carriages or scrved at tlie tables of tbeir masters when they were not on duty. This is the nnex- aggerated and inconceivable picture of the Portu- guese troops, before the war of 176*2, and the arrival of count de Lippe, who instantly set about reforming the whole of it. The Portuguese are naturally indisposed to application. The great are averse to military employments; and as, in consequence of its frequent revolutions, this govemment is full of suspicion, it ÍIILITARY VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA'. , 405

r is permitted but to certain families to enter into *°A°*If ; the army. Strangers alone can support its cha- p^£^"' racrer, and they are generally ill-chosen and Miiuwy econo- treated with indignity. The obligations wliich the Portugnese liave rceeived from foreigners, sincc the year 1640, cannot be equalled but by their ingratitudc. It seems to be a principie with these people to demand their assistance in time of war, toredeem the.follies they have committed during a period of peace. A miiitary zeal and ardour seems to return on the arrival of these auxiliaries ; but, when the war is closed, their zeal is extin* guished, their arms are suffered to rust, and these foreigners, to whom they owed so much, die or desert, oppressed by injustice, by debts, and des^ pair; while the Portuguese sink into their former state of ignorance and torpor. This absurd con^ < duct has been fi equently renewed since the epocha that has been just mentioned, and it is probable tiiat it will be again rcpeated. Unfortunately for the state whieh is goveincd by a single ministcr, that miuister is never qualified for evcry department, and therefore gives his attention to tbose in which his capacity has been chiefly exercised. The army of Portugal has a very respectable ap- Office»: pearanee; but the offieers are ill-chosen, ilí-paid, and, nevertheless, are entirely eogaged by interest, with the least spark of miiitary honour. 406 CÀMPA1GXS IN* SPAIX AND PORTUGAL.

^hA^Mf1* Their exterior appearance, howcver, is under some v , i/ «a*»v* * kjnfj 0f rcmilation, and the cut of their elothes, Portugal. . jtiiiitt^ feeonò* as wcll as their manual exercise, is in the Prussian method. The count de Lippe rendered an essential service to Portugal in new-modelling its army; hut he remained there too short a time to carry bis reform into effect; besides, he did not make a proper choice of oilicers to finish the work which he had begun. When war was declared in 1762, Portugal find- íng itself without offieers and without soldiers, the gòvernment, alarmcd at its defenceless situa tion, employed every means to engage foreign offieers in its serviee. A crowd of militaTy adven- turers, therefore, wbo had been dishonoured in, or edient, patient, n> eharacterof * '" " ," V '.""" ' , the Portuguest bust, lively, and dexterous; buthe is, at the sarae »idier. time, idle, filthy, and disposed to íind fault with every thing; but he is capable, ivhen properly at; tended to, of doing credit to his character. His aversion to the Spaniards should be encouraged, but he should be made to coraprehend, that he eannot gaiu any advantage oycr the superior numbers of that nation but by superior discipline.

The mutual contempt which these nations epter7 tain for each other arises froui their içnorance and their presumption. It is very extraordinary, when, it is their mutual interest to know each other, tiiajt their reciprocai aversion should operate so ppwer- fully as to prevent any useful eommunicatiqn be-j tween them. Hence it is that 'a war betweçn Spain and Portugal wilj cpnsist of littlc morç than groping about in tjie dark. becausencither 408 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK r, the one nor the other have maps, or guides, or CHIP. IH. l " ^—^v-"*-^ spies. Portugal. * wuhary econo- These defeets of the military establishments ín Portugal might have been easily corrected by the count de Lippe. But to attain such an object a full power and the exercise of a rigid discipline wcre indispeusable. It would be also neeessary to roake the appointment. of the Portuguese officers equal to those of the foreign officers, in order to dissipate the grovelling jealousies and conteihpt- that suhsist between them, and to make talents the only distinction; at the same time to encourage the foreign offieers, who live in a continuai state of suspicion and distrust, by making them» equal sharers in the favour of government, and attaching them to the country by solid establishments. In short, it would be the best policy to reward diligence, by attaching to it honour as well as emolument, and to punish indolence by disgrace and the loss of fortune. The Portuguese army is in a tolerable state of discipline: it marches and manoeuvres well; but

it ought frequently to be drawn out into enT campments, tliat the little manoeuvres of exercise might be applied to the great operations of war. The battalions are composed of seven companies, one of which consists of grenadiers, of 140 men cacb. This formatioa is impcrfect, according to MILITA RV VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 409 the mies of tacties, as it is not capable of sqiiare dívisions, without confusion. There are many p^^~ other líinlrs in its evolntions, the greater part of Miiitwy «oao- which procecd from the same principie. Neither are the troops accustomed to remove earth, to practise the manocuvres of attack and defence, as well as the art of forrification j and ali this is essential in a country like Portugal, where war must be on the defensive, and carried on in detail. The infantry of the north is very superior, in discipline as well as in stature, to that of the sou th, especially of the capital and of Elvas. The cavairy is well mounted on horses from Àn- dalusia, Beira, and Traz os Montes; which are of amoderate height, like those of the Spanish cavai ry ; but they are ali geldings. It is a problem which experience alone can re- solve, whether the gelding or the stone-horse is best qualified for the ser vice of cavalry, and if the quiet disposition of the one is equal, in point of effect, to the ardent spirit of the other. The Spa- nish cavalry is the only one in Europe which consists of stone-horses, and it is of acknowledged excellence; but it may be doubted whether it possesses sufficient solidity to support a line of infantry. Cavalry should possess these four qualities; order, solidity, force, and swiftness. The Spanish cavalry are famous for the two latter, and 410 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGA!.

BOOK L the portuo;uese possess the tvvo former. The uníon ^-t^-v**—* of tbese four qualities are by no means incompa- vnuan econo- ti^íe; but I have my doubts whetherthey are to mj' be found in any cavalry of any nation. Portugal maintains twelve squadrons of cuiras- siers, in pretty good condition and discipline. Though I am rather doubtful whether they possess sufíicient solidity to resist the impetuous shock of the Spanish cavalry, frorn the modera te size of their horses. Their breastrplates, however, give them two incontestable advantages; though the Spaniards are of a different opinion, as they never make use of them. The first is, that they afford protection to the soldier; and, secondly, they give him an idea of bis superiority over troops who are not clad in such defensive armou r. The Portu- guese dragoons, hpwever, will never equal those of Spain. It is a great advantage to thís cavalry to keep always in close nnion with the infantry, and never to engage alone in the píains of Alentejo, and still less in those of Estremadura, because there is great reason to conjecture, rhat it wpuld fail in an engagement with Spanish cavalry. Its mpst adr vantageous píace is in the line, where it wpuld be able to support the infantry; and, in battle, it is better calculated to maintain its ranks, to cover a retreat, or protect the forage. It wpuld execute MIL1TARY VIEY/ OF THE PENÍNSULA. 4il

BOOK I. with less activity but with more certainty the CRAP. Hl. great manceuvres, as well as the detail of its ser- ^*^f vice. The squadron lias the same defect as in Miiitary «co»^ Spain, iu beiog composed of four companies, whicli require too many officers, and renders the establishment expensive. A company of cavaby is worth, in the provinces, near «£500 per annum. The regiments which are on court-duty are very much harassed, because they do the duty of body- guards, and the king, whom they constantly attend, ahvays goes in full speed; so that they must be necessarily in worsc condition, and the companies of less value. The Portugucse cavalry bas this advantage over that of Spain, that it is exercised in firing, and aceustomed to leap hedges and ditclies in squadrons; a manoeuvre which the Spaniards can scarcely believej but which they could execute better than any other cavalry if they were excrr cised in it. There is but one regiment of b'ght dragoons, of about 1200 men, very ill exercised, and, of course, incapable of engaging in that kind of war for which they are designed. It is, nevertheless, indispensable to have a body of from 5 to 6000 light troops in a war with Spain, which being de* fensive, the only attacks that the Portuguese can make mustbe by way of incursion. 412 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

B0A?Ifn1, ^he art*^eiy 1S composed of three battalions, ^-^v*^-^ but in a very bad state of discipline. The cannon Portugal * ..iil Miiitary econo. are iH-made and clumsy. The mmister had tne wy* good fortunc to engage two cxcellent founders, brought up under the famous Maritz; but the prevailing prejudice against foreigners has got the better of actual want, and, in consequencc of ill-treatment, they have been obliged to desert from the service. There are no field-pieces nor any smail cannon to accompany the infantry, -vvhich would be of the greatest use in sucli a country as Portugal. The corps of engíneers is ill formed and extremely ignorant; they can do little more than rule paper and page a register, where there is a post at every step. The Portugucse might avail themsclves of tlieir foreign engineers to procure corrcct maps ofthcir country, in which they are totally deficient; they might obtain topographical surveys of the chains of mountains, ofrivers, valleys, and frontíer-plains, that every post might be known in case of war. The scarcity of forage will always prevent the Portuguese from keeping the field and maintain- ing a large body of cavai ry; and th is circumstance proceeds from a defective state of agriculture. Nevertheless, the supplies for a Portuguese army might be easily colleçted in two or three MILITART VIEW OF THE PENÍNSULA. 4-lS strong places in tlie back parts, from whence they might be drawn with convenience and safety. " The military hospitais form no concera of the Milhar? «sono- king, as a community of monks always charge themselves with that brandi of military administration. But regular and fixed hospitais would be more serviceable, and might be contrived. 414 CAMPAIGKS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

CHAP. IV.

PRELIMINAR? OPERATIONS OF THE BRITISH GO- VERNMENT AND OF THE PROVISIONAL POWERS OF. SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Retrospect qfthe State oftht Península in 1807-8. —Simultaneous Rising qfthe P rov inces qf Spabu —Their Declarations.—Communications betzveen the British Government and its Naval and Mi- litary Officers commanding at Gibraltar and in the Mediterranean, and in tke provisional Spanish Juntas qf Government.

THE situation of the península in the winter of 1807-8 has heen briefly described in the first chap* Sttte of lhe gmmuiata ter of the present volume, in the introductory sketch which was necessary to a view of the policy that dictated the employment of British troops ín that quarter against the common enemy. The whole seemed at once abandoned to the unprincipled power of France; and that posscssion which PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS. 415 BOOK t. had in vain been for centuries the hopeless òbjcct CHAP. IV.

of her most potent monarchs seemed now to have ^^Çe courted her more fortunate usurper, or rather to ^^'Ul have fallen without exertion into his hands. At the elose of 1807, Portugal, lost to her an. tient fame, and almost to her politicai connexion with England, had surrendered without an effort to the arms of Junot; and early in 1808, êxcepting brief tumults in the capital and its vicinity, Spain saw, with little apparent emotion, a driveller, without any other eharacter than his relation to Napo- leon, prepare to aseend her antient throne.* *

'• 'There was, doubtless, from the first, a respectable feeling in the people upon the subject, and they did not altogether disguise their indignation, though its operatíon seèmed entirely passive.*— íueh is the spírit which áppeared in the excellent tetter of the "Bíshop of Orense, excusing himsdf from joining the junta of Spa- tósh authorities, invited to Bayonne for the purpose of givíng a 'Côlourto the transactions Which there toolc place. *« Being," he said, " séventy-three years of age, and under in- "firtnities, he was not able in so short a time to acquire the knôw- lédge necessary to come to a dectsion on the poirits to be dis- •'cussed, he sent the present letter." The emperor and king ap- 'tféarèd in the eharacter of aguardian-angel of peace, the protector of Spain, of-which he had nevfer been forgetful, but on mani- fold occasións had marufested the great interest hefelt in theSpa- "hish tíatidn and thèsõvereigns of Spain, his allies, and his concefn •for 'their âdvancdment in "wealth, -power, and ali mariner of ptos- peirity. The object of the junta was to remedy evils,to'remOVe 'pfejudifces, árícTtõ amèliôrate the coudition of ;the nation-and mb- 416 CAMPAIGNS INSPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Neither the interest which Grcat Britain mast' naturally continue to possess in the aft&irs of Por- State of lhe península io 1807-8. narchy of Spain. But on what foundation was this grcat edificc tobebuilt? Was there any surc means of accomplishing this great end, approvcd and ratificd by the nation ? There were maladies of such a nature as only to be exasperated by medicines; Sangcní vulnera sacra nulla? manus. The remediex applied by the emperor Napoleon, the powerful protector of Spain, to the royal family, had aggravated the distempcr so greatly that tliere were ecarccly any hopcs ofrecovery. The rcnunciations of the kings at Bayonne, and of the infants at Bourdeaux, were raade by those princes not in a state of freedom, but under force and coercion. That those renunciations on which ali the authority of the emperor and king with reg3rd to Spain depended, might be valid and clear, and not an object of suspicion to the whole nation, they ought to be ratified by the kings and infants of Spain, not under constraint and terror, but in a state of perfect freedom. And nothing could contribute so much to the glory of the great emperor Napoleon, wh o had interested himsclf so much in the afTairs of Spain, as to send back its august monarchs and ali the royal family, that, having assemblcd the general cortes, they might consult and deliberate frcely, a»nd concertwíth their vassals and subjects what might be expedient for the welfare of the kingdom.— Who had appointed his serene highness the grand duke of Berg* governor of Spain ? Was not the appointment made in France ? by a king, pious indeed, and worthy of ali respect, but not only under an ascendant influenee, but under constraint and coercion ? Was it not a strange and un natural chim era to name for the lorcf- lieutenant of his kingdom a general who com mande d an army thatmenaced and compcllcd him immediately to resign his cxowní Ia conclusion be taid, " the nation saw itsclf without a king, and PREL1MINARY OPF.RATIONS. 417

BOOK. I. tugal, nor a propcr regard to politicai consíderation C1HP. IV. of the circumstances tliat liad already taken place ^^r^J : pi-niiiButa in ^, < ".- r •. i • 1807-8. did not know what hand to turn. The renunciations of its kuigs and the nomination of a govemor of the kingdom, were deeds done in Franco, and under the eye of an emperor wh o has per- suaded himself that hc can effect the felicity of Spain, by givíng it a new dynasty, deriving its origin froni a family so fortunate a* to believe itself incapable of produeing any other princes than such as shall posscss equal or grcater talents for government than the invincible and victorious, the legislator and the philosopher, the great emperor Napoleon. He requested, with ali due respect, that what he considered as we!l-grounded fears, might be brouglit under the consideration of the supreme junta of government, and even laid before the great Napoleon, to be weighed by the natural rectitude of his disposí- tion and purity of his heart, free from ambition, and far removed from ali guile and politicai artífice. And the bishop hoped that the emperor, after raatters should be thus candidly considered, would admit that the safety of Spain would not consist in slavery, and that he would not think of effecting her cure by putting her ín chains, seeing she was neíther in a state of timacy nor Juriously viad. Thesc were sentiments which he was not afraid to avow to the junta of government, and even to the emperor himself.— This expression of them was demanded by his love for his country and the rôyal family, and by his character of councillor to his sovereign in the quality of bishop of Spain : nor did hè eonsider the sentiments he had expressed as useless, if not necessary to the true glory and felicity of the illustrious hero whn was the admiration of ali Europe, and to whom he had the pleasure oí taking the present opportunity to pay the tribute of bis humble, obedient, and submissive, respects."—It was dated frora Orense, 'the 29thof May, 1808. VOL, I. E e 418 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN.AND PORTUGAL.

with regard to Spain permitted tliat these events sbould pass without particular attention from the State of the penínsulainpeninsu £overnment of Great Britam. It is iar rrom ím- 1807-8. probable, thercfore, that his majesty's ministers wcre prepared to expcct some grand change in the politicai state of those countries, from the iniserable despotism to wliich they were apparently about to be reduced, and they were not disappoinced. While yet considcred as lost in apathy to Europe, a spirit of patriotism, borne down only by the weight of powcr, with a strength proportioned to the depression it liad experienced, bui st forth at the same instant in every province of Spain ; and the antient spirit of Portugal, though still restrained by the impetus of unconditional submission, did not fail to catch the influence, and speedily to evince itself, wherever the abseuce of the enemy permitted the privileged orders to collcct and animatc the sentiments of the pcople. This spirit ought not to excite that astonishment which it has every where created, but rather to attract attention to the de- basement of thosc numerous states which have so meanly submitted to conquest withoqt a struggle. Sir Hew Dalrymple, lieutenant-governor of Gi- braltar, with rear-admiral Sir Charles Cotton, commanding on that station, and the Mediterrancan fleet under lord Collingwood, did not fail to improve every opportunity that oceurred for commu- PREUMINARY 0PERAT10NS. 419

BOOKL nicating with the neighbouríng proviuees 011 that CHíf. IT. coast, ín eoncurrence with the Spanish general Cas- suíTof th< tanos, who commanded at St. Roehe, and Don Tho- ÍSÊJ^* mas Morla, whcn, on the death of Solano, lie suc- eeeded to the govcrnnieiit of Cadiz. Nor was tliis ali: the British public, prone to the cause of liberty, caught the íJame; and the repre- sentatíves of tlie people ín parliament, whether in or out of power, givc their testimony to the good- ness of the cause.* Even the hapless emigrants of

f Though not immcdtately to the potnt, the following discus- tion, introduced by Mr. Shcridan, in lhe house of commons, on the 11 th of June, is too interesltng to be omitted. " I ara far," said he> " from wishing ministers to embark ín any ra.sh or romantic enlerprisc in favour of Spain; but, sir, if the enlhusiasm and animation which now exists in a part of Spain. should spread over the whole of that country, I am conWnced that, since the fírst burst of lhe French revolution, there never existed so happy an opportutiily for Great Britain to strike a bold slroke for the rescue of the world. But, sir, it is said, if you do not distrust the administration, why discuss this subject in parliament ? Sir, I will tell you why. I am disposed to irust administration. But I wish first to declare that, in my opinion, vve musl not dcal in dribblets ; we must do much or nothing. Why do I make this declaration ? Because nó cabinet which has hilherlo existed ín this country,—not even excepting that which I had the hdhour of heing connected,—has pursued simply and plaínly one clear and distincl object. Inslead of striking at lhe core of the evtl, the adminislrations of this country have hitherto conlentcd themselves with nibbling at the rind. In Ihis censure, I must not include an EC2 420 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

sooK i. JYance became anew flushed with that bope.which CI1AP. IV. * v^v^ had been so long deferred. and once more in ima- Slalcoftlie ° península in 1807-8. honou rabie friend near me, nor Air. Burke. They would have proceeded directly and completei)- to the object which they had ia view, or they would not have advanced to it a step. But, with these exceptions, the ministers of England have pursued a petty policy, they have gone about íilching sugar-islands, and neglecting ali that was dignified, and ali that was consonant to the truly understood interests of their country. I wish, therefore, sir, to let Spain know that the conduet which we have pursued we will not per- severe in, but lhat wc are resolved fàirly and fully to stand up for the salva ti on of Europe. If a co-operation with Spain be ex- pedicut, it sliould be an effectual co-operalion. I repeat that I am far from prompting his majesty's government to engage in any rash romantic enterprise j but if, upon ascertaining the state of the popular inind in Spain, they find it is warmed by a patriotíc and enthusiastic ardour, lhen, sir, ali I ask is. that that feeling should be mel here with corresponding energy and enlhusiasm.— Buonaparle has hitherto run a most victorious race. Hitherto he has had to contend against princes without dignity, and ministers without wisdom. He has fought against countries in which the people have been índífíerent as to his suecess; he has yetto learn o what it is to ílght against a country in which the people are animated with one spirit to resist him. So far, &ir, from bringing forward a motion prematurety to embarras his majesty's government, í solemnly declare that if the opportunity to which I have alludcd of a vigorous interference on the part of England should arise, the present administratíon shall have from me as cordial and as sincere a support as if the man whom I most loved were restored to life and power. Is this a vain discussion > Lct those who think so look at the present state of Europe. Will not the ' PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS. 421

gination retraced their country, restored by a

counter revolution from the bosom of thc Pyrc- g „ península in nees.* ísoz-s.

anímation of thc Spanísh mind be excitcd by the knowlcdge that theír cause is espoused, not by raSnistcrs alone, but by the parliament and thc pcoplc of England ? If there bc a disposition ín Spain to resent thc insults and in- juries, too cnormous to bc described by language, which they have endurcd from the tyrant of thc earth, will not that disposition be roused to thc most sublime exertion, by the assurance that their efíbrts will be cordially aíded hy a great and powerful na- tíon ! Sir, 1 think this a most iraportant crisia, Never was any thing so brave, so generous, so noble, as the conduet of thc Asturians. They have magnanimously avowcd their hostility to France; they have declared war against Buonapartc; they have no rctreat; they are resolved to conquer, or to peribh in the grave of the honour and the independence of their country, It is that the British govemment may advance to their assistance wiíh a firmer step, and with a bolder raien, that I have bcen anxious to afíòrd this opportunity to the British parliament, of expressing the feelings which they entertain on thc occasion. I move, sir, " That a humble addrcss be presented to his majesty, that he will be graciously pleased to direct that there be

* Thc sentiroents of this unhappy pcoplc wcre expressed through their organ, thc paper of AI. Peltier, intjtulcd UAmbigu, wilh ali the ardent impressions of hope. " Spain raises the ilandard of liberty, and ali naturc revives! The most invetera te hatreds are extingaished ! The Spaniards are worthy of thc cause of Jiberty, law, monarehy, honour, and God ! " &c. &c. 422 CAMPAIONS IH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Of the manner in which tlie general insurreo

Stale of ib« tion of Spatn arose and was conducted, wlut is península ia 1807-8. laid before this house, copies of such proclamations as have been received by his majeãty's secretary of state for foreígn aflairs, and which have bt>t;n issued since the arrival of the French army at Madrid ; wliether by the Spanish governmcnt, the French cem- mander-in-chicf, or by persons since claíraing to act on behalf of the Spanish nation." JMr. secrclary Canning admitted that Mr. Sheridan's speech, being moderate, callcd for as general a disclosure of the senti ments of hís majesty's rninisters as inight bc made without bazard, without a dishonourable compromise, and without exciting ex- pectaiions which might never be realised, He declarcd, that

his majesty's rninisters çaw, with a deep and lively intercsl> the noble strugglc which a part of the Spanish nation was now jnaking to resist the unexamplcd atrocity of France, and to preserve the independence of their conntry; and that there existed the strongest disposition on the part of tlie British govcrnmcnt to aflbrd every practicable aid in a contest so magnanimous. It would never oceur to ministrv, that a state of war existed between Spain and Grcat Brita in. Thcy should procced upon the principie, that any nation of Europe that started up with a de- terraination to oppose a power which, whether insidiously professing peace or declaring open war was the common enemy of ali nations, whatever might be the existing politicai relations of that nation with Great Brilain, became instanlly our essential ally. In that evenl his majesty's rninisters would have three objects in vlew. The first, ttfdirect the united efíbrts of the two countries against the common foc. The second, lo direct those efforts in a way that should be most beneficiai to the new ally. The thJrd, to direct those eíforts in a manner conducive peculiarly to British interests: though tíie last of these objects would JPRELIMINARY OPERATIONS. 423

neccssary to the present pur|)ose may be thus BOOK i. briefly detailed. v^v^*** J Siate of t!ie The people, regarding the departure ofthe royal pemn»ui«ín family as a desertion of thcm, had íbllowed each May,i808. escort with the most poignant feelings. The king did not fáil to notice these in an address which re- flected on the people of a frontier province. On the 2d of IMay, the queen of Estruria, the Iast of the family, with her infant son, werc to take their departure with the same demonstration of the public mind, but it was increased by an appearance of regret on the part of the young prince, Don Francisco, at leaving the Spanish capital.

bc left entircly out of tbe question when compared with the other two. To Mr. Whiibread, who comidered lhe third of lhese as narrow policy, suhjecting the interests of the great cause to lhe minor concerns ôf Great Britain, Mr. Canning, very con- sístently indeed with what he had just declared, replied, thai in this contest ín which Spain was embarked no interest could be $o purely British as Spanish suecess; no conquest so advanla- geous for Britain, as conquering from France; but it was deemed highly improper, not only by Mr. Canning and other ministerialists, but by Mr. Ponsonby," and others on his side of ■ the house, to communicatc the information moved for to the worid at the present moment. Mr. Sheridan having answercd his end in procuríng the discussion, in course withdrew his raotion. A similar one, with the same result, took place in the house of peers a fortnight after, from, the duke of Norfolk, 424 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL,

BOOKI. Obvious error is, happily, the occasional con- CIIAF. IV. ' I * •* ' V~*^v~^ comitant of vice, as the mole is blind, and this State of tlie ruiii»tiu in was the case wjth the French general Murar., grana 1GD7-8. " . obvious error duke of Berg and vieeroy of Spain, who, unhke nltfTMadrid, his wclj-practised niastcr, little recollecting the i'd May, and , . aticrwards, judgement requircd to manage tJic passions orc a pco])le tinis lield in ferment, thought of.nolliing but evincing the power which ten thousand troops, posted in tlie capital, could obtain o ver an ai mos t defenceless populace; and when tlie unequal conflict had subsided, so little considered the chief advantage of power in possessing without using it, as to establish a military tribunal, with an officer of peculiar ferocity (general Grouebe) at its bead, for the trial, and what was the same thing, instant execution of such as having eseaped might have otherwise sub:nitted, with the best grace, to whateycr might be presented as the new order of things! The consequence, as may readily be pereeived, was the complete estrangement of the Spanish pcoplc fiom every thing tliat wore the appearance or eharacter of. the French nation. The principality of Astúrias, whose abused re-• presentative, Ferdinand VII. gave peculiar dignity to their deli bera tions, and whose eharacter as a free people, dated even from the Moorish conquest, in which they reinained unsubdued, gave a PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS. 425 peculiar spirit to thèir exertions, immediately de- monstrated their o])position to the usurpation; g^onuT and, under the enlightened Don Ignacío Florez, J5'o"k,ain prcsident of its supreme junta, sent deputies to London with an address, soliciting assistance, dated as early as the 25th of same instant, May.* In the opposite provinces, on the coasts of the Mediterranean, where the French were intimately connected in commerce, the eífect was more severe. Miguel de Saavedra, captain-general of Va- lência, where the insurrection was immediately apparent, was put to dcath, for opposing the views of the insurgents, who then demanded the forfeiture of French property, and the persons of the owners as prisoners. The corregidor and intendant of Cuença were enchaiued and carried off hy the peasantry. The governor of Málaga, general Truxello, was killed at Granada. The French cônsul, Mornard, suífered in the same way at the Moorish castlc of Gibralforo, where was a small depot of arms and ammunition. Several provincial governors suífered in a similar way, among whom was the governor of Cartha- gena. Estremadura and the Castiles experienced a de-

• Sec the Address at the close of thepresent chapter. 426 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

grec of the same spirit; at Badajoz the governor

State of ibe sufTered. KS™.1*lB Solano, captain-general of Andalusia, and governor of Cadiz, notwithstanding his prcvious character, having encouraged and endeavourecl to support a Frendi party there, was saerificed. In Leon some cxccsses occurred. At Corunna, the Galicians attacked general Fi- langieri, an Italian, in the Spanish service, commanding there, and some French were arrested. Upon the whole, however, never was there a popular insurrection so general, and every where so provoked, attendcd with so few calamities, so few of the evils, which must ever necessarily attend a popular coinmotion. Constituted as are the different provinces of Spain with regard to their antient're!ations, 110- thing was more easy than for some of them to assume a portion at least of the vice-regal dignity. Seville was thus enahled by someold statutes, which authorised its rejection of the power of the supreme council, whenever the capital should bc possessed by foreigners to assume an independent authority, in the name of Ferdiriand VII. whom they proclaimed king, and in whose name they declared war against France. Similar juntas, (councils,) formed of the leading men hr pomt of birth or influence, immediately * PRELIMINAUY 0PERATI0N9. 427 arose in ali the other provinces not occupied by B00K *• 1 I •* CIIAP. IV. the cneniy, and subordinately in the creat eities ^-*~v~^ J J ° State of lhe and towns, for the conduet of the public safety pendia» i « 1807-8. and exertions.; but with an accord worthy of the cause in whicb they were thus suddenly called to exert themsclves ; thesc dicl not hesitate to yield a sort of supremacy to tbat of Seville, whích, from locality and other circumstances, was so immediately Hkely to effect the most important objects to the state. Its province, Andalusia, beside numerous troops, possessed arms and ammunition in abundance, and the principal foundery of cannon in the kingdom. It was particularly opulent, had ready mcans of communication with the English at Gi- braltar, and the fleet in the Straits; and in the barbour of Cadiz remained the wreeks of the Frendi navy from the battle of Trafalgar. Àlthough every allowance was to be made for bodies of rnen so brought together, with ali the common prejudices of hunian nature, but with few of the requisites for the most difficult offices of politicai economy, nothing could be more admirable than the general conduet of the whole. Those who had becn influenced by French polities were treated by the new associations with forbearance, and only invited, by every legitimatc ineans, to join the cause of liberty. The junta of every province assembled troops of 428 CAMPAIGNS IN 8PAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKI. jj tever description it could, and thcsc were CHAP. IV. w a » ^^f^ fornied frota every class of tlie people : The 110- li807.8.laín bility, gentry, and artizans, alikC entered the ranks, and even the clergy were seen in corps of the cliurch militant; nor was this ali, for the students of the numerous universities poured forth, and assemblcd themselves in companies, with the appellatíons of those of Brutus, Cato, and the people, and under standards, inseribed liberty or, death. In six days, says the native writer of an Introduction to their History, (Estrade,) ali Spaín had risen! And cerrainly (as observed by an cye witness) it was a noble sight to see the Spaniards marching.in ' their tumultuary array, to meet the most experienced warriors of modem times, without uni- fnrms or proper accoutrements, badly armed, ignorant of tacties, but full of patriotism, and of an enthusiasm adini rabie in itself, though but little in the scale, with more esscntial military qualities; aspectacle, however, more gratifying to

the feelings of the man, if not the soldier, than av víew of the finest Russian or Prussian army. The orders of the juntas were carried into effect by the magistrates and the ordinary authorities, and the people, with one consent, obeyed them. Tlie whole, but particularly the juntas of Se- PRELIMINAR? OPERATIOJÍS. 429 ville and Astúrias, issued proclamations,' which, *££**• whether for their spirit or cloquencc, havc scarcely ^T^hT^ ever before been equalled; in these they explaincd f™laÍQ their motives, encouraged cach other, invited ali nations inimieal to usurpation to countenance their efforts; inspirited their neighbours, the Por- tuguese; gently expostulated with their own countrvmen, who liad submitted to remain under the dominion of the Frendi; and icalled upon those of other eountries, serving in the armies of France, to quit their rank, and join the standard of freedom.

Nothing can more completely shew the simul- tancous principie on which the provisional powers of the sevcral provinces acted than the circum- stanec that while the supreme junta of Seville was preparingj with the best means, to give a unity of action to the whole, by a public declaration of motives and plan of military eeonomy, that of As- túrias was promptly providing to influenee, in their favour, the most powerful of foreign alli- ances, by a deputationto the court of London, the official communication to which was dated the 25th of May, 1808. The publications from Se- ville, though they are first inserted for the sake of continuity, do not bear date till the 29th and 31 st of the same month. 430 CAMPAIGNS IN SPATN AND PORTUGAL.

The latter run nearly as foi lo w, and are valuable, not more from the occasion than the matter s y - 1 Declaration of they COntaill.- their motives . c ... . . , Prociamation of ^eviile coulcl not resist the impulse of her jtnuTseviiie, neroic %*%> of whicli slie lias set, the example 8Jf w< in ali ages. Tlie king, to whom we ali swore . allegiance with emotions of joy, unpreccdented in history, lias been decoyed from us; the fundamental laws^of our monarcliy are trampled under foot,—our property, our customs, our wives,— ali that the natíon holds most dear is threatened with imminent danger; our holy religion, our only hope, is doomed to perdition, or will be reduced to meie externai appearauccs, without support and without protection:—and ali this is done by a foreign power, not by dint of arms, but by deceit and treachery,—by taking advantage of our good nattire, and by eonverting the very persons who call themselvcs the heads of our government into instruments of those atro- cious acts; persons who, either from the baseness of tbeir sentiments, from shameful fear, or, perhaps, from other motives, which time or justice will unfold, hesitatc not to sacrince their country. It, therefore, became necessary to break the shackles which prevented the Spanish people from displaying that generous ardour which in ali ages has covered them with gtory,—that noble cou- PUELIMINART OPEHATIONS. 451 rage with which they have always defended the BOOK I. honour of the nation, their laws, their monarcbs, v-*^v^*^ Proclamation of and their reli£Íon! The people of Seville ioined the Supren» ° r * J Junta at Seville; acçordingly, the 27th of May, and, through the M«JS9. médium of their magistrates of ali their constituted authorities, perfectly united, and of the most respectable individuais of every rank and description. Th is supreme council of govcrnment was formcd, invested with ali the necessary powers, and charged to defend the country, the religion, the laws, and the king. We aceept the heroic trust; we swear to discharge it, and reckon on the strength and energy of the whole nation! We have again proclaimed don Ferdinand VII. our king; again we swore allegiance to him, and swore to die in his defence; and this was the signa! of happiness and union, and will prove so to aíl Spain ! A couneií-government had scarcely heen formcd when it violated the most sacred laws of the realm :—a preside»t appointed wi til- ou t any authority whatever, and who, had he had any lawful title, hastened to forfeit it; in addition to his being a foreigner, which was a legal objection to his promotion, he acted with the utmost duplicity, and co-operated for the destruction of the vcry monarchy from whom he received his appointment, and of the laws which seemed aíone to sanction his authority. 432 CAMPAI.GNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOKI. CU IP. IV. Under these circumstances we could not restrain Prodaraauon^pv^^ of our loyalty,* " and much less couid we violate the juntatheSupreme atScvjIIe, sacrcd engagements° ° which we .had before con- May29. tracted as Spaniards, as subjects, as Christians, as frcemen, indcpendent from ali foreign authority- and power; nor could. the authority of the first tribunal of the nation, the Council of Castile, check or controul.our exertions.—The weakness qf that council became ohvious from tbe waver- ing and contradictory proceedings it adopted ; the most momentous and most criticai situation in which. the nation bath ever been placed, and in which tbe council should bave displayed thatheroic firmness with.which numberless motives and its own bonour compelled.it to act; the order tamely tosubmit to, and circulate, and obey, !the act of abdication in favour of a foreign prínce was a consummation of its weakness, perhaps of its infamy; for that act wãs evidently void and iIlegal; from the want of autliority in him who*made jt,* hecause themonarchy was not his own; nor was Spain composed of animais subjcct to the absolute controul of their rulcrs; his accession to thé throne was founded on his royal descent, according to hís own confession, .and on tbe fundamental laws of the realm, which invariably regulated the hereditary succession, and with regard to which the council is not invested. with any PUELIM1NARY OPERATIONS. 4^3

B other power than thc sacred duty to enforce their c°?,* J; obsei vance; it is void on account of the state of K~*^£^~> f violence and oppression in which it vas made, and fh^*p™ ° which is far more evident than thc abdication J^. J itself; it is void beeause the published aet of abdication of king Ferdinand VII. and of his unele and brother was made in the same state of violence and compulsion, as it cxpressly declared in the very act of abdication; it is void beeause many royal personagts, possessed of the right to claim the crown, have not relin(|uished that claim, but preserve it entire; add tothis, the horrid treachery which has been cmploycd to sacriílce and degrade the Spanish nation. It is to our alliance and our sacrifices that the French are indebted for wliat tbey eall their trimnphs. France with* drew our gallant troops frnm their native land anti sent them to tlie most distant countries; she made them fight for her interests without having any occasion for them, for the obvious purpose of weakening us and despoiling us of our strength. Her armies afterwards entered Spain under continuai professions of an anxious desire to promote our prospeiity, and under the pretext of co-ope- rating iu expeditions against an enemy of whom no farther mention is made; the people by a gc- nerous ardouv prevented the departurc of their king, a measure which the French should have VOL, r. Ff 434 CAMPAltftfS IN SFAIN AND PORTUGAL-

hailed with shouts of joy; but, far from so dçing, they kept a profound silencc with regard to tliat Se sTn-ne °f departure, an('> what is still more, converted it into Si»y*39,Scville* a motive to oppress us. France affected to pcr- eeive divisions in the nation which did not exist, the Spanish nation having never been more united in the Iove and defence of its king. The Iatter was decoyed into the French territory by deceit- ful insinuations and profcssíons; with a degree of generosity, of which perhaps there does not exista precedent, the king, with iinplicit reliance on those vain professions, threw himsclf into the arms of the French, who, with the basest treachery, un- precedented in the annals of civilized nations, made him their prisoner, treated him in a manner the most' disrespectful, and forced him to the deeds of horror which ali Europe has witnessed with astonishment and every Spaniard with indignation and the most poignant grief. " In a manner equally d ceei tf ul they invited the royal parents to their country, and compelled them to unjust and illegal acts, acts whích must hand down their memory to the latest posterity branded with disgrace; they also dragged away the rest of the royal personages, to whom their tender age would have proved an inviolable shield even among the most barbarous nations. Tlic French mlcr summoned the Spanish nation before PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS. 435 BOOK I. him; he chose such deputies as l>est suited his CHAP.1Y. purpose; in a- most despotic manner of election of other deputies appointed to deliberate in a ^^9{ foreign country on the most important interests i;^,5*'111*' of the nation, while he pubhcly dcclared a private and respectful Iettcr, written to him by Ferdi- nand VII. at the time lie was prince of the As- túrias, to be a criminal performance, injurious to the rights of sovereignty, although the same foreigner, who now aflfects to consider it as an offence, perhaps induced him to write it. It is, indeed, a heinous offence, it is rebeilion, when an independent nution submits to the controul of a foreign prince, and discuss in his piesence, and under his decision, its most sacred rights and public welfare; and neither Seville nor any Spaniard will lower himseif to a degree of disloyalty and meanness which couíd reduce him to a rebeilion so atroeious, that even slaves would scorn to disgrace themselves by deeds of infamy like this. He has resorted to many other indecorous means „ to deceive us; he has distributed seditious libeis to corrupt the public opinion, in which, under the strongest professions of respect for the laws and for religion, he insults both, and leaves no means untried, however infamous they may be, to bend our necks under an iron yoke and make us his slaves. He carnes his audacity and deceit the Ff 2 436 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AXD PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. lênstli of assuring tlie publie, in one of hislibél- LIIAP. VI. O O J ' y>-*^s*^ lous publications, tbat tlie Suprerae Pontiff and ProcituuHtionof yjcar of Jesus Clirist approves and sanetions bis tlie buprecne • * JjmaatScviíie, proeeedings, while it is notorious, in sight of ali Europe, lie lias despoiled hhn of bis dominions and foreed him to dismiss bis cardinais, in order to prevent him from directiug and governing the wholc cbuich in the manncr sanctioned by our godly Saviour Jesus Christ;—Spaniards, every consideration ealls ou ns to unite and frustrate viewsso atroeious. No revolution exists in Spain, or did we declare against any power; our sole object is to dcfend what wc liold most saered, against him who, under the cloak of allianee and friendsliip, intended to wrest it from us without fighting,'—ourlaws, our monarehs, and our religion. Let us, therefore, sacriíice every thing to a cause so just, and, if we are to lose our ah, let us lose it fighting, and as generous men.—Join me, therefore, ali; the people are ready to take up anus: let us commit to the wisest amongus, in ali the provinees of Spain, the impurtant trust to preserve - the publie opinion, and refute those insolent libeis replete with the most atroeious falsehoods. Let every one eombat'in bis way, and let even the ehnrch of Spain incessantly implore the assistance of the God of Hosts, whose prutection is secure to us by the evident justiee of our cause. And PRELIM1NARY OPERATIONS. 437

BOOK I. what do you fear? Thcre is not in Spain the CHAT. IV. s- / nunilier of the cnemy's troops which they pio- *7[^^* claim, in oriler to intimidate us; those who oc- K™^of cupy part of our eountry are composed of differ- M^V*""0' ent nations, dragged intoservice, and who anxiously desire to break their chains.—The positions they havc taken are exactly those in which they ean be conquered and defeated in the casiest manner; they are besides weak and dismaycd, because the consciousness of guilt roakes a coward of tlie bravest man. AU Europc will applaud our effbrts and hasten to our assistance; Italy, Germany, and the whole north, which suffer under the despotism of tlie French nation, will eagerly arai] themselves of the favourable opportunity held out to them by Spain to shake off their yoke and recover their liberty, their la ws, their monarchs, and ai! they have been robbed of by that nation. France herself will hasten to erase tlie stain of infamy which must cover the tools and instruments of deeds the most treacherous and heinous; she will not shed lier blood in so vile a cause; she has already suffered too niuch under the idlc pre-1 text of a peace and happiness, which never came, and can never be attainecl but under the empire of reason, peace, religion, and la ws. Your liberty, your kings, your religion, nay, your hopes in a better world, which that rcligiou can alone devíse 438 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. iQ yOU an(j y0l]r descendants are at stake, exposed CHAT. IV. J J ' ■ ^*-v*^ to çreat and imminent danger." This documcnt 1808. => ° ^'rSuroí was s'gnec^ " By command of the supreine council MaU29ScvUk' of government, Don Juan Baptista Estcller, first secretary, Don Juan Pardo, second sccietary.

M»y si. This proclamation of tlie suprcme junta of Sevillc was foliowed two days after by the folio wing military paper, the wisdom and the style of which would seem to have claimed no ordinary asststance.

It was given the simple title of originai pi™ Precautions, which it will be proper to observe foTTh^ondact throughout the different provinces of Spain, in •I the war. the necessity to which they have been drivcn by the French, of resisting the unjust and violent possession which their armies are endeavouring to take of the kingdom. We cannot doubt a moment of the exertions which the united provlnces of Spain .would make to obstruct and defeat the malicious desigus of the French, and that they will sacrifice even their lives on this occasion, the most important and even un- paralleled iu the bistory of the nation, both in the thing itself and in the horrible rneans of ingratitude and perfidy by which the French have undertaken, pursued, and are still endeavouring to effect our slavery. PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS. 439

1. Let the first objecl be to avoid ali general actions, and to convince ourselves of the very great hazards, without any advantage, or even the hope ^^^«t of it, to which they would expose us. The reasons of lhe w"r* of these resolutions are many, and such as any one will discover who lias the use of his understand* ing. 2. A warof partizaus is the system which suits; warofp»ra« the cmbarrassing and wasting the enemy's armies by want of provisions, dcstroying bridges, throwing up entrenchments in proper situations, and other similar means. The situation of Spain, its many mountains, and the passes which they present, its rivers and torrents, and even the cultivation of its provinccs, invite us to carry on this species of warfare succcssfully. 3. It is indispensable that each province should jr,utarycMH have its general, of known talento and of such ex- " perience as our situation permite, that his heroic loyalty should inspire the utmost coníidence, and that every general should have under his command officcrsofmerit, particularly of artillery and engineers. 4. As a combined union of plans is the soul of every well-concerted enterprisc, and that which alone can promise and facilita te a successful issue, it appears indispensable that there should be three generalíssimos, who should act in concert with each 440 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN ANt>, PORTUGAL.

BOOK i. other; one, who shoukl cominand in the four king- cu AP. iv. * ' ' ° V^*fcvr*1^' ^oms of Andalusia, in Murcia, and.Lower Estrema* 1608. * ' origmaiptan dura: another in Valeneia, Arra&on, and Catalo- for the conduct ' ° of lhe WM^ nia; a person of the greatest credit being appointed to Na varre, the Biscayan provlnces, Montanus, As-

túrias, llioja3 and the north of Old Castile, for the purpose which will be mentioned hereafter. Fomiation of 5. Each of these generais and generalíssimos will the arniy. cr form an army of veteraus, troops and peasantry united, and put liimself in a situation to undertake enterprises, and to suecour the most exposed points, keeping up always a frequent communication with the other generalíssimos, in order that ali inay act by common accord, and assist one another. Befeuce of the 6. Madrid and La Mancha require an especial CH pitaj bycorps J * » «reine. general to eoncert and execute the enterprises which their j)artieular Ioea) situation demands. llis only, object ,must he to embarras the enemy's armies, to take away or cut off their provisious, to attack. , theni.in ílank and rear, and not tojeave thein a , tnonient of repose. The courage of these inhabi- , tants is well known, and. tliey will eagerly embrace, • «'•' -such enterprises if they are Ied as thev shoukl be. 4 In the Suecession-AVar, the euemy enterec) twice into the interior of the kingdom, and even as far as its capital, and this wus the cause of their defeat, , their entire min, and their utter failure of suecess. SeciintyofUie 7. xhe generalíssimos of the north and east will passes of the iSa Pjrcuecs, &C. PHELIMINAKT 0PERAT10NS. 44\ block up the entrances of the provinces uncler their còmmand, and come to the assistance of any one that may be attackec! by the eneniy ; to prevent as ^j;^^ mucli as possíble ali pillage, and preserve its híha- of tU war- bítants from the desolatíon of war, the many moim- tains and defiles which are the confines of thesc provinces being favourable to such projects. 8. The destination of the general of Navarra, Biscay, and the rest of this department, is the most importam'of ali, in which he will be assisted by the generais of the north and east, with the troops" and other suecours in which he stands in need of." His whole business must be to shut the entrance of Spain against fresh French troops, and to' harass and destroy those that retnrn from Spain to France by this point. The very rugged local situation of these provinces'will be of singular advantage in such a design, and these enterprises, ifwellcon- certed and carricd into execution, will no doubt be successful; and the same may be understood of the difTerent points by which the French troops which are in Portugal may come into Spain, or by which French troops may enter throrigh Rousillon into »e?Jmfn»ntier Catalonia, for there is not much to be apprehended íSoSi troopi for Arragon. And even from Portugal it is not "* thought that they will escape, on account 'of the proclamations which have been circulated in that kingdom, and the hatred that they before had to 442 CAMPAIGNS IN SPA1N .AND PORTUGAL. the Freud] being increased without measure by thc p^J^fc"/ innumerable evils whicli they have been macle to foíti^cwiduct su^r) and the cruel oppression in which they are ofthewar- heldbythem. indubiubie mi- gt At ^ne same time it would be very proncr lity of frequent J l l SS™beicato°ie l^at t^10 generalíssimos shoukl publish and circulate Vypiecforaa. frequent proclamations amongst tlie people, and rousc their courage and loyalty, shewing tliem that they have every thing to fear from the horrible cruel ties with which the French have dealt with Spain, and even with their king, Ferdinand VIL and if they rule over us, ali is lost, kings, monarchy, property, liberty, independence, and religion ; and that therefore it is necessary to sacrifice our lives and property in defence of the king and of the country; and though ourlot (which we hope will never come to pass) shoukl destine us to become slaves, lct us become so fighting and dying like gal-

lant men3 not giving ourselves up basely to thc yoke like sheep, as the late infamous government would have done, and fíxing upon Spain and her, slavery, eternal ignominy, and disgrace. Francc has never domineered over us, nor set her foot in our territory. We have many times mastercd her, not by deceit, but by force of arms; we have made her kings prisoners, and we have made the nation tremble!—we are the same Spaniards, and France, and Europe, and the world, shall see, that we are PRELIMIKARY OPERATIONS. 443 not less gallant nor less brave than the most glorious of our ancestois. ♦ 10. AH persons of educatíon Ín the provinces 2?§?«SdUt shoulcl be stiinulatcd to frame, print, and publish ofth«w«- frequent short discourses, in order to preserve the public opinion and the ardour of the nation, con- fuling at the same time the infamous diartes of Madrid, wliich the baseness of the late government has permitted and still permits to be publíshed Ín x Madrid itself, and has caused to be circulated abrood, detecting their falsehoods and continuai contradictions; let them cover with sliame the miserable authors of those diaríes, and sometimes ex- tcnd their remarks to those charlatans, the Frendi gazetteers, and even to their Montteur, and let them display and publish to Spain and to ali Europe their horrible falsehoods and venal praíses, for they afFord abuudant matter for such a work. Let ali such perverted minds tremble at Spain, and let France know that the Spaniards have thoroughly penctrated their designs, and therefore it is that they justly . detest and abominate them, and that they will sooner lay down their, lives than submit to their iniquitous and barbarous yoke. 11. Care should be taken to cxplain to the nation, and to convince them that when freed, as we trust to be, from this civil war, to which the French have forced us, and when placed iu a state of tran- 444 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAJN AND PORTUGAL.

BJ°KI- quillity, our lord and king Ferdinand VII. being ^-^-v^w> restorcd to tbe throne. under him and by him tbe 1808. ' J Originai pian cortes will bc assem bled, abuses reformed, and such ror tbe conduct •ftiwmr. laws shall be enactecl as tbe circumstances of tbe uitjmuteicforia time and cxperiencc may dictate for the public good of iheconsiitu- , . tioa promjsed. ami happiness. Things wliich wc Spaniards know how to do, wbicb we bavc donc as well as otber nations, without any necessity for tbe vile Frendi coniing to instruct us, and, according to tbeir custom, under tbe mask of friendsbip and wishes for our bappiness, should contrive, for tliis alone tliey are contriving, to pi under us, to violate our women, to assassinato us, to deprivc us of our liberty, our laws, and our king, to scoif at and destroy our holy rcligion, as tbey have bitherto dope, and will always continue to do, as long as tbat spirit of perfidy and ambition wbicb opprcsses and tyrannizcs over tbem shall endurc." This document is also antenticated by tbe naine of " Juan Baptista Pardo, secretary. By order of tbe supreme junta.'*

Tlie whole tenor and principie of ,these papers cannot bc too well considere*! by every military man connected witb tbe force of wbicb tbey are intended to direct tbe formation, nor indeed by any wbo may be called to serve in tbe war which has arisen out of tbem, and of which the foliowing is tbe declaration. FRELIMIVAIIY OPEUAT10NS. 445

Ferdinand the VIIth, king of Spain and the In- IBOS...... r Spanish dtclJ- clies, and m nis name, the supreme JuntaT or ratio» of *« ■ - , against the em- DO th. ptTorofFrnncc, Napoieoi» the Ist, JIMW 6. Franee, under the government of the einperor Napoleon I. lias violatcd towards Spain the most sacred compaets,—has oppressed her motiarchs,— ohliged thein to a forced and manifestly voicl abdication and renunciation; has behaved witb tlie samc violcncc towards the Spanish nobles whom he kccj)s in his powcr;—has declared that hc will eleet a king of Spain, the most horrible attempt that is recorded in history;—has sent his troops into Spain, seized her fortresses and her capital, and scattered his troops throughout the conntry;—• has committed against Spain ali sorts of assassina- tions, robberics, and unheard-of cruclties; and this he has donc with the most enormons iugrati- tude to the services which the Spanish nation have rendered to Franee, to the friendship it has shewn her, thus treating it with the most dreadful perfidy, "fraud/and tfeachcry, snch as was ucrer committed against anj> nation by the most barbarous or ambitiòús king or peoplc. Hc has, in fine, declared that he will trample clown our monarChy, our fundamental laws, and bring about tlie ruin of our holy Catliolie religion. The only remedy, 446 CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

therefore, for such grievous ills, which are so ma- nifest to ali Europe, is in war, wliich we declare Spanish decla- * ' ' lation oi «ar against liím. against lhe cm- ° petorotFfmice, jn fa nanie. therefore, if our king Ferdinand Napoleon tno > J o iiWuoeÊ. Vil th, and of alMhe Spanish nation, we declare war by land and sca against the emperor Napo- leon the Ist, and against France; we are determined to throw off her domination and tyranny, and command ali Spaniards to act hostilely against her, to do her ali possiblc daniage according to the laws of war, to plaee an embargo upon ali Freneh ships in our ports, and ali the property and effects, in whatever part of Spain they may be, whether belonging to the government or to the individuais of that nation. In the same manner we command, that no embarrasment or mo- lestation be done to the English nation nor its government, nor its ships, property, or efFects, nor any individual of that nation. We declare that there shall be open and free eommunication witli England; that we have contracted and will keep an armistice with her, and that we hope to conclude a durable and lasting peace. Moreover we protest we will not lay dovvn our arms till the emperor Napoleon the Ist, has.ie- stored to Spain our king Ferdinand the VItth, and the rest of the royal family; lias respected the sacred rights of the nation, which he has violated, PRELIMIXAKY OPERATIONS. 447 and her libcrty, integrity, and independence. With the same understandino;, and accordance r n 0 f with the.-Spanish, we command that the present a^-n 5t t J"m. solemn declaration be printed, postcd, and circu- ^"^"J"' lated, ,among ali the people and provinces of Spain Irt' JuQe6- and America, that it may be known in Europe, Africa, and Ásia. Giveu in the palace of Alcazar, atSeville, this 6*th of June, 1808. By order of the supreme junta-of government, MANUEL MARIA AGUILAC, Sec. JUAN BAPTISTA PAHDO, Scc.

The donicstic operations of the Spanish nations cannot be better learned than from these sources, whose authority also gives them a superiority on the seore of reference. It is, however, now time to.turn to Portugal. The supreme junta of Seville had already (May 30) said to the Portugusc,—" The danger of your country is passed! Iíasten to arms for its delivcr- ance and rcstoration ! Share in the glory of setting an example to nations groaning under oppression !* The Portuguese had not been inattentive to the call; and though their capital, Lishon, was, like Madrid, in the hands of the French, the second city of the kingdom under its reverend and spirited bishop, established itself against tlie enemy, and invited the other provinces to do the same. 44S CAMPAIGXS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

The following address, edict and proclamation, issued as early as the 20th of June, well charao Edict and pro- v ciamaúonofthe tcriscs the fedm^s. under which their authors la- Portuguese, is- ° * jueci at o^rto toureei oii the subiect SOlh June,1808 *> In the name of the prince regent of Portuga], the junta of the supreme government of the eity of Oporto niakes known unto ali subjects of the said prinee, that the Frcnch government is entirely extcmiinated from this country, and the royal au- thonty of our legitimate sovereign is restored, which will bc exercised fully and independently by the above-mentioned junta, until the government established in this kingdom, by his royal highness, shall be restored; in consequcncc of which the said junta order, that his royal highness shall be proclaimcd, and his royal arnis displayed and re- spectcd as tliey always have been and shall be: and that ali constitutecLauthorities shall act con- formai) ly, publishing ali their orders in the namc of his royal highness.—The bishop, president, and generalíssimo. Given at Oporto, I9th of June, 1808. The provisional council of the government of Oporto invite the veteran soldicrs, to whatever regiment of the line they may belong, to unite with the army of this provinec, that is, to enter into the ranks vi th the two regimenta of the garrison of this city, which are in the course TfflELIMItfARYiOBBRATlONS. 449

L of organization : and-.to»each .man, .by way-of re- *°°^v muneratioD, sanie,advantages.

The bishop, prcsident, and governor, JPortuguese !-^By heaven, jand by.JesusChrist! Prociatnatk». /you have a governor who loves you, who is anx- lious for your happiness, and who will exert .himself to obtain .it. What vavail your turbulence, your exeesses, your want of thát order.and subordination to whieh he-would conduct you, anxious, to preserve your lives? What opportunities.have ryou.not lost, >of which you ought to have.availed yourselves againstthe enemy, since you haveneg- lected your own -resources? What-signals do you not exhibit to :the enemy, -that íhe may entrap,and surpriscyou. The French intend to.strike a blow, rfatalto you, and you are lost if you areguilty of ânsubordmation, or .disregard to the councils x>f your governor. Your firing, your 4>eat of idruin, your balis, give -toyoureneiniestheíknowledge

weakness. From your enemy conceal your power, tliat vou niay stiikc the blow with more success; 1808. J J Prociamationto and that you may encounter him when he least Ui» Portugucse. expects your approach : by these means you may conquer him. Subject yourself to your superiors in ali, and through ali, if you are desirous of victory; otherwise be assured you will meet only disgrace. From necessity, after this manner, the raighty hulls yields to vigilanee, dexterity, and the little cloak. By whatever is sacred in heaven or in earth, by the sacred natne of Jesus Christ, the governor im- plores you, that you maintain subjection to your chiefs, conforming to the regulations of your re- spective companies. If you are ordered to a post, there you ought to remain until the moment of comhat and glory shall arrive. To you wlio are in the van, we first com mi t our cause, and, by valou r, diminish the • number of our enemíes. You, who are next in order, when your turn comes, fulfil your duty by dealing destruetion arbund you: and you, who forni the rear guard, destroy the rest. Your energy must be guided by intelligence; you must be . condueted by wisdom, in order to be conquerors. Long live the prince regent; long live Portugal; PREtIMTKARY OPERATIONS. 451 long live' the Portuguese!—The Bisliop, Governor, ^?°r*v*- and President * ' ^* ^soT*^' Proclamation to _ tlie PortuguMe. * As this may bc deemed the first open act of the Portuguese against theír invaders, ít may be necessary to a just view of the existing state of aflairs lo shew the sentiments avowcd by the prince regent, on withdravving himself from his Europcan territory. It runs thus: 1 " Having tried by ali possible means to preserve the neutra- Declaration of ■ . i t'lc prii>ce-re- lity hitherto enjoyed by my faithful and beloved suhjects, having gCniof Portugal. exhausted my royal treasury, and made innumerahle other sacrifices, even going to the extremity of shutting the poits of my dominions to the subjects of my antient and royal ally, the king of Great Britain, thus exposing the commerce of my people to total min, and, conscqucntly, sutTeríng the grcatest losses in the eollection of my royal revermes of the crown, I flnd lhat troops of the empcror of the French and king of Italy, to whom I had united myself on the eontinent, in the hope of bcing no more disturbed, are actually mprchlng xisto the interior of my kingdom,' and are even on tbeir way lo this capital; and, desiríng to avoíd the fatal consequences of a defenee which would be fàr rríore dángerous than profitable, servíng only to create an etTusion of blood dreadful to humanity, and to enflame the animcúty of the troops whieh have entered this kingdom, with the declaration aiid promise of not committing any the smallest hostility, and knowing also that they are most paríicularly destined against my royal persnn, and that my faithful subjects would be less alármed were I absent from this kingdom, I have resolved, for the benefit of my subjects, to retire, with the quecn my mother and ali my royal family, to my dominions tn America, therç to establish myself in the city of Rio de Janeiro until a general peace. And, moreover, cnnsidering the importanee of leaving the government of these kingdoms in that good order which is GJ?2 452 CAKPAIONS INLSPAIN. AND, POUTUGAL.

TBOOK,L -\ye are-now, amved at th& period»wberi tbese

VJ^N-í^W' details assume an hiçber importanceJo.tbevEnglish 1808. » r ' o - ' H . \ '•• *■ Coroinunic«iion for its advantage and for that of ,my people,, (a matter I.ara cs- bcrween the ** • •- . '' « , • > > *' Bmish govLm- sentially bound to provide for,) and.havmg duly.inade all.the pravUbnalpow- reflections prescnted by the occasions, I have lesolved to nomi-

cnofSpain. naje as govcrnor and rcgent of these .kingdoms, during my ab-

xocama i . gence> mv dcarly-bcloved cousin, the raarquis.dc Abrantio Fran- sisco da Cunha de Menezes, Ueutenant-gencra! of my foççes^ the principal Castro; (one of ray council, aod a Regido Justiça;) Putrode Mello Breryncr, also of my council, who will act as president of my treasury, during the incapacity of Louis de Vás- concellos c Sanzi j (who is unable so to,do.at present, ort account '©f.illness;) Don Francisco de Nerocha, president, of. the board

of consciepee and religious orders j and, in the absence of anyi(of them, the Conde de Castro Mazine, (grand hunt$raan,), whorn , I have nominated president of the senate; with the assistan.ee_of the secretaries thercof, the Conde de Sampavne,, and in his ab- ' senee Don Miguel Fcrrura Forjaz, and of my attorney-general, Joas'António Saltcr de Mendcnca, on account of the great confidence whieh I have in.them,.and of the experience whiçh.thçy , possess in raatters of government, being certain that my people and kingdom will be governed and directed in ,sueh a manneç that my conscience shall be clear, and that this regeney shall fulfil .iIs duty so long as it shall please God that I should be absent froro this capital, ailmistertng justice with impartiality, distribuiíng re- wards and punishments according to deserts. And these regents -Avillfarther take.this as my pleasure, and fulfil my order in ^he plan thus mentioncd, and in conformity to theJnsínict.iQns. signed by me, and accompanying this deeree, which they will cpromu- nicate to the proper departmçnts."

N(Signed) 4 $$£ PçI^E. .Palace of the Ajuda, Noverabcr 27, .1807. yRELIIIINAUY OFERÀTIONS.' 453

reaâeiy fromithe* immediate interference. of> his ^f^J; Brltdnnic' inajest/s goverament hvthe. concerns ^-7^**y

of> the patriotic cause of Spain, whiclí led to the ^"Sioni eniployment of a British force in those carrípaigns which» it 'isvthe future purpose ofthese volumes to narra te. Withòut entering-into an i irrelevant detail of whátévér intercoirise, purely politicai,*, had already tátíèn:p!ace with Spain; the communication of the provinceof^Astúrias witli Great Britain has bèen ' already ali iided to in the precedi ng pages, as of date' the 25th day of May; on the 9th of June, sixgen- tlemen;-having afc their head the viscount de-Ma- terosa''and'don Diègo de la Vega, and including" the general- comnianding in chiefand the attorney- general of the province, arrived in London, bringing; the' first-legitimate intimation of the general insurrection/aud soliciting the aid of the British r govcrnment: This aid was confined to thé supply > of money, arrtis, and amnmnition, for it appeared ; the chief'good their hills afforded was man and » steel; the soldier and his sword. Their address ran as folio ws :

Magnanimous Monarch of Great Britain, The principality of Astúrias, united in the ; General Assembly of Representatives, in whom, 4J4 CAMPÁIGNS IN SPAIN JtXD'POIiTUGAL«

I) 0 K I C^A P VI ; from thc particular circumstances,* which wilb be v —"^p"^ laicl before your- majcsty, the entire sovereigntyis L rreiimH.arv now pjaceH abliorríní? tlie thouolits of falling intô slavery under a con quero r \vlio seèks to extend his dominion by perfidy rather than by'valour or justice, and animated by grief at seeing their unfortunate king, Ferdinand the Seventh, with the rest of the royal family, in tlie cliains of a tyrant, theviolator of ali justice, have this' day openly taken up arms in their defcnce to recover the monarchy, although they cannot recover the persons of their sovereigns. , ■ * , r i >oJJ Tlie determination, sire, is a great one, but the spirit and justice with which this nation has un« dertakcn it are no less so, as well as the confidencc which it cntertains in the favour and assistance of tbiá generous nation and its augustt sovereign, who will 'not. fail to perceive the dreadful conse- ' queuees which must rcsult from the unbounded ambition of the Frendi gpve.rtínient/.whose powcr, cxcessively augmented by the possession of the monarchy of Spain, .would aspire to universal monarchy. The principality, therefore, through its dcputles, i * Thesc circumstances, arising from the politicai history of lhe provinces, havealready beén cxplaincd iu speaking of the supre*

maey of the Junta of Seviile.. j i (.. , , ( i PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS, 455 furnished with full powers, presents itselftoso- ^f^" licit from your rnajesty the succours necessary, in v^^^' m their present situation, and, with their general-in- ^ uSon, chief,the marquis of Santa Cruz do Mazzonado, recognized and sworn into his ofíice, they ,hope that your rnajesty will deign to attend to their earncst solicitations.

May the Lord preserve the iroportant life of your rnajesty! Oviedo, 25* A May, 1808. . (Signed) The Representatives of the Principality of Astúrias. t ' • The Marquis de Santa Cruz de Mazzo*. nado. i'>/«ii 1> ™ The Count Manil Penalba. * . » Don A. Florez Estrada Caballero, Pro- curador-General. > • ^ By order of the General Junta of Astúrias, u . «• • JUAN AQUILLEZ FLORAL, i.d Representative and Sccretary. -

To tíiis address liis Britannic majest/s govern- roent, true to whatever encouragement might have been given to the hopes of the Spanish people, promptly returned the following answer, though its minis ter for forcign arTairs, with a frankness which forms the best, as it is the national, characteristic of the British administration: J 456 CAMPA ÍGÍÍSWSPàI tf À'N'tí POk¥tíGAL.

BOORtv CK>P. IV, Fércig*'Oj}ic'é} \ llh JúneJ 18Ô81 - 1808. frelimlnary Gentlemerçi iXítumaiílcatiotU"' Is havei laidc befbre: the? king,i my master? thclettei? which >youi were commíssioned tocon* vey tb hisniajestyfrom the; General Junta o f thd principality of Astúrias, and thet ptnvers. with which you have been furnished for soliciting, in tne nameof that bbdy, his majestyYassistance. ' : I am commanded by the king to assure you that his majesty sees with the most lively intercst the; loyat antli-braveídestermination' ofrthe p/inci^ 'pality of .Astúrias to maintainj, against the un- principledíusurpationiof France, a struggle for the restoration and independence of th« Spanish monarchy," and that hismajesty is- disposedto afíbrd every assistanctf and support toían.effort so magnanimous and praise-worthy.' * Jn pursuance of this disposition hismajcstyrhas directed such, articles of military supply as have been describêd to--be?mostiinmedialely necessary to be shipped without delay for the port of Gijon; and hasòrdered á British naval force to be detached to the coast of Astúrias, sufficient to protect them agajnst ■< any attempt which might be

made :hy. France to introduce trçops by sea*into that country. PfcXXnHíTÀRr OPEíCATlOtfSl 457 Every;ulteriór effort will be cheerfully made by ^oK^r.' his miajcstyxinísupport of so just a'cause. Iam1 v-"7^^' commanded by his• majestyto declare' to'you his ^jjjj^j majesty's" willingness- to extend' his • support to allT síich other partS1 of- the Sf>anish monarchy as sball síicw themselves to be actuated by the same spirit3 which animates the inhabitants of Astúrias, and his earnest desire to renew those ties of friendship which so long subsisted between the two kingdoms, and to direct their joint efforts against that power which has proved itself not less the enemy of Spainthan of Great Britain. I have earnestly to recommend that no time may be lost in apprisiug the General Junta of the Astúrias of the reception which his majestyhas given to their proposals through you, and I have to inform JTOU that a vessel is in readiness at Ports- mouth for the conveyance of any messenger whom you may wish to despatch with this communica- r, tion. / I have, &c

(Signed) GEORGE CANINO.

Such assurances could not fail to inspire the 1 Spanish government and people, and, indeed, the whole world, with the most lively hopes from an alliance so congenial to Britain and to Europe. 45S CAMPAIGNS IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. ♦ IIow well those assurances were fulfillcd; what results were obtained frcfin thcir fulfihncnt; what rjníwiniSion» h°pcs inspired! what heroic acts pcrformed ! what politicai confidence assurcd and advantage gained from the enemy; will forni the snbjccts of the

ensuing book. t *

„A • A ZN D OF VOL. I. .. ,A . ' . f •Ah . - >

■ . 'A >\P r , L.íA

r A i

* l

"V.fc. **

áf

li < l( INDEX.

Abencerragcs, hall of, at Granada, 193t Abrantes, account of, 359, 380. Acalcilla described, 2+3. . Agricultura! rcvcnuc of Great Britain, 26. Alciu dccribcd, 209. Akala de Scbert, 228. Alcala, its university, &c. 136. Alcântara described, 27 S. Alacjos described, 272. Alcoy described, 208. Alcubia described, 214. Alcudia described, 206. Aldeã dei Rio, 159. Alegria described, 253. Alenquer described, 359. Alentejo, province of, its accounl ooramenced, 363. Alcontim, 369. Algarve, provinceoí, its account commenced, 368. Algcmisi described, 209. Algesiras described, 176. Alhambra, superb remains of Moorish'graiideur,at Granada, 189. 460 INDEX.

• Alicant described, 207. Almaden described, 155. Almeida, account of, 335. Almenardo described, 227. Aimoradiel, accouní of, 156. Almonis described, 141. « Alpedrinha, 382. Alten described, 208. Alumbres, Los, described, 201. Amial, account of, 372. Antiení monument, called ToiwdH5uisando, 136. Aníient edifices at Toledo, (note,) 134. Andalusia, province of, account of, commenced, 159. Andilla described, 214. Anduxar described, 159. Anduxar, its productíons, jbíd. Aqueduct, Roman, of Trajan described, ,258.-. Aqueducts, their conslrucíion considered, 375. Aranjuez, its royal palacedescribed^ 148. - T Arehena described, 204. Arcos described, 139, 188. Arens de Mar, 243. Arlancpn, 255. Armi«s, foreign, how inferior to cxtravagant notions respect-, ing, 57. Arminon, 254. Arragon, province of, Its account commenced, 248 r Arragon, its canal, 144, Arronches described, 360. Arsachina Bay, 38. Arsenal of La-Carracca described, (note,) 174. As Camadas, 382. Astorga described, 270.. Astúrias, province of, its account commenced,t 264.. Atalaya, account of, 382. Atiça, its wirte celebrated, 140. .ixnsx. '4G1

Ávila, jts Englisb-jnanuíàclory> 137. Aris, 367, Azambuja, 378.

B. * ' • .. A

Badajos, account o£ 278, , Balance of power ín Europe, 5. Ballaguer described, 231. Balsain, rojai hunting-seat of, 262. Baltic islands estimated, 36. Bargasot described, 213. Barquinha, 379. Baths„hall of, at .Qranada, 192. Batuesca, the deep valley of, described,. 136. Barcelos described, 326. • >, Baya described, 196. Baylen described, 158. Bayonna, account of, 267. Beira, provim» of, k$ account çommenced, .331. Belém and Velha, theír towers, 34-1. Beja, its Roman antiquity, &c. 365. . Belmonte, account of, 384. Eellas, 374-. Bellem, íts royal rcsidence, 35 8. Bembibre described, 268. Benemamet described, 213. Benicarlos described, 228. Barcelona described, 239. Barchel, fountain at A\coy, 208. Bergara described, 252. Bexis described, 215.

Betanzos, description of, 267. r--t Biar described, 208- Bilboa described, 281. 462 INDEX.'

Biscay, provlnce of, its account comraericed, 250. Eobeda de Castro, 275. Bonifácio, straits of, 38. Blunders of French generais, 67, 410. Bragança, account of, 329. Braga, account of, 326. Bribíesca, 254. Britons employed in the Roman army, 75. Burgos described, 254. Bujerraval described, 139. Bujalance described, 159. i

c- Capital of Spain, its defence by corps d'ellte ordered, 440. Cabrero, account of, 267. Cacabelos described, 268. Caçava ca described, 205. Cadiz, account of, 170. Calaspara described, 205. Calatayud, the birth-place of Martial, 141, Cambrillis described, 232. Carapinha described, 382. Campor, its canal, 269. Campo Mayor, 366. Campo Spartaris described, 201. Campo de Tarragona, 234. Canet de Mar, 243. Cardija, 379. Cardona described, 241. Carmona, account of, 163. ■ 1 Carolina described, 158. Carthagena described, 200. Castanheira described, 383. Castel Branco, 382. Canada de la Higuera, 155. IKDEX. 46S

Castellon de la Plana, 227. Castle of don Juan, account of, 270." Castilc, Old, provínce of, its account commcnccd, 25*» Castra Nucvo, 271. - . • >< Catalonia, province of, its account commenced, 228. Cavales described, 214. « Cautions respecíing allícs, 45. Cautions to the British forces, 73. Causes of Frcneh victories, 66. Cetiva described, 140. •• Ccvcra described, 241. Chapei of our lady at Segcrbia, 215. Chaves, its Roman grandeur, 329. Chíclana described, 176. Chilieros described, 374. • ■ China oranges, 333. Chirivel described, 197. Christians, mount sacred to, at Granada, 194. Cieza described, 205. Ciudad Rodrigo, account of, 275. Cintra, account of, 372. ' " • * > Circuit of fifty miles round Madrid, 1S2. . ' Ciudad Real, 157. Climate of Spain, 101 Climatc of Portugal, 403. Coimbra, account of, 332. Collcge, eclebrated, of Salamanca, 273 Colonies, how to be estimated, 32, 35. Commands, military, how ordercd by the Spanish jonta, 439. ' Coram erce favou rabie to arms, 65. Commercial revenue of Great Britain, 29. Comparison of Rome and Carthagc with France and Great Britain, 74. Concíliation, how useful, 4S. Constantine, Account cf, 267. Constantine, bridge of, 267. 464 IND-EX.

Constitution, Spanish, its reform ultiniately promised, 444. Consuegra, account of, 157. Contentaina dcscribed, 208. Compostella, St. Jago de, descriplion of, 266. Copenhagen, its advantages, 38. Corvederas, Las, dcscribed, 158. Córdova, distingutshed a3 the birth-placeof many greatmen; 160. Córdova, its decline in manufactories, &e. ibid. Corunna, account of, 265. Culler de Baya described, 198.

Declaration of war ol Spain against the ;eraperor of Frarice, Na- poleon I. 445. Declaration of the bishop of Oporto on.the, part of Portugal, {443. Del Oro described, 1G6. Despondency of Great Britain, relief froro, y43. Diplomacy, military, principie of, 42, 51, Discovery of the charactcr of British troops, 57. Dispenaperos described, 15.8. Duenas described, 256.

Ecija described, 162. Egypt a desirable colony, 34. El Vizo described, 155. Él Carpio, 159. JJchei described, ■ 206. El Pântano described, 208. Elvas, account of, 366. Emaneipation of the countries conquered by France, projectof,.$8. Emigration of the Portuguese government, 14. INDEX. 4fó

Encrgies of governmertf, 28. Entre Douro e Minho, province of, íts account commcnccd, 324. Ercsma, ri ver, described, 261. Errors in the conduct of war, 41. Escurial, royal palace of, described, 262. Escurial, farm house of, 263. Espiritu Santo, 275. Estremadura, province of, its account comraenced, 276. Estremadura, Portuguese, province of, its account commençed, 339. Estremoz, description of, 36,4. Estoy described, 370. Évora, account of, 364. Expeditions, British, inadequacy of, 48.

Farnous blunders of the French, 67. Faro, account of, 370. France, its revenue, 25. Feira, 332. Felippe, San, described, 209. Fernando, San, described, 135. Ferrol, account of, 265. Figurctta, La, described, 234. Figueras described, 224. Flagellation of penitents, 277. Force, disposable, of Britain, 69. Formation, original, of the Spanish insurgentarmy, 440. Fort, antient, described, 139. Foreign armics, cxtravagant notions respccling, 56- Fortresses of Portugal, 327. Freedom, British, superiority of, 29. Fresno described, 141. Fuencaliente 4escribed, 139.

YOL. í. H U 466 INDEX,

Fucnsaldagne, account of, 257. Fucn Scvadon, 268. Fucntc de Alo mo described, 199.

GalHcia, province of, itsaccountcommenced, 265. Gavaon, 183. Gcneralif, house of lovc and plcasurc at Granada, 193. Gerona described, 243. Getafc described, 132. Gibraltar described, 178. Giuste, San, 258. Golegam, 379. Granada, province of, commenced, 185. Granada, city of, described, 138. Granada, its Moorish antiquities, 190. Guadalascara, 138. Guadariama described, 262. Guardiã, 155. Guadix described, 195. Guarda described, 335. Guaroman described, 158. Guisando described, 135.

Half measures, even arising from integrity,to be avoided, 46. Hcrmani described, 251. Hernâni described, 252. Honorias described, 267. Huesca described, 143. INDEX. 467

I. J.

Jaen,' account of, 159. Jaen, its antiquiíy, ibid. Idanha, description of, 335. Jgnatius I^oyola, founder of the Jesuits, 235. I guiada described, 241. Ildefonso, St. account of, 259. Ilici, gulf of, 207. Illescas described, 132. Inscripticn, curious one at Toledo, 133. Insular empire, its estimation, 35.' Introductory observations, 1. Irun described, 252. Isabella Farnese, anecdoie of her sudden ambilion, 260. Islands for railitary stations, how to he estimated, 33. Itálica, anticnt, 167.

Lagos, account of, 36S. Lamego, its Roman antíquity, 333. Lampcdosa, 38. Lamperudan described, 24-6. Leon, province of, its account commenced, 2ÍÍ9. Leon, island of, described, 174. Lerida described, 240. Leria described, 214. Leyria, 359 Lísbon, account of, 340. Lions court at Granada, 192. Loeehes described, 135. Londares described, 139. Lorca described, 199. ii h 2 463 INDEX.

Lorgui described, 205. Loxa described, 188. Loulé, 369. Lugo, description of, 267. Lumbreras, 198.

Madrid, account of, 1C7. Mafra, account of, 373. Magrat described, 24-3. Málaga, account of, 185. Malta, cstimation of, 37. Mancha, La, how celcbrated by Cervantes, 154. Manners and customs of Spain, 93. Manzanares described, 156. Medina de Rio Seca, 269. Maria de Nieva, San, 258. Martin, S. dei Rio, 275. Matagorda and Fort Louis described, 173. Mataro described, 242. Maur, Le, bis fine road through Sicrra Morena, 157. Mayazo, 254. Medina dei Campo, account of, 269. Medina, 279. Mediterranean islands, their estimation, 35. Merida, account of, 278. Military policy, present, of Great Britain, 22. Military despondeney, causes of, 49. Military school at Segóvia, 259. Military stations, 37. Military víew of the península, 78. Minorca, its use, 38. Miranda, account of, 329. Misuse of tbe antíent paJace of the Moors, Córdova, 160. INDEX. 469

Mixture of politics with war, 42, 51. Mogente described, 208. Mola Cape, 38. Molina Seca, 268. Moncao described, 325. Mondragon, 253. Monreal described, 140. Montelcvar, coramencing aqueduct at, 374. Montamoro Velho described, 332. Montserrat, its monastic gloora, 235. Moorish antiquitíes of Granada, 189. Morviedro (Saguntum) described, 217. Moura, 365. Mula described, 205. Murcia, province of, its account comraenced, 199, Murcia, city of, described, 203.

Navarre, province of, its account comraenced, 249. Niza or Nissa, 381. Nulis, 227. Nuestra Senora de Ia Augustias, at Granada, 194.

Óbidos, 371. Olivença, 366. Olerem, 360. Olmido, account of, 257. Oporto, account of, 325. Origuela described, 206. Oropesa described, 228. Orospeda described, 187. 470 INDEX.

Orsan's Bay, accouní of, 266. Ourique, Campo de, account of, 365, Oviedo, account of, 264.

Palencía described, 256. Palomas described, 177. Pampeluna, 249. Partizans, war of, propos>ed by the Spanish Junta of Seville,439. Patriotism, enthusiasm of, bow far efficient, 30. Paular, retircd monasterv of, described, 261. Peínda, 243. Pellcna described, 195. Pena de los Enamerados described, 187. Pena de los Enamerados, Lovers' Rock there, ihid. Penamacor, account of, 337. Penitence, Amatory, 277. Peniche, S71. Península, French poUey in regard to, 13. St. Petri, river of, described, 173. Populaiion of France and Britain, compared, 23. People, the Spanish, the ailies of Britain, 60. Perrellos described, 231. Pbeasants, Islcof, 250. Placentia, account of, 277. Plan promulgated by tlie Spanish junta of Seville, for the conduct of the war, 438. Plunder, learned, 370. Policy of the war, 1. Policy, present military, of Great Britain, 22. Pond, court of, at Granada, 193. Pont des Molinos described, 246. Ponte Almonda, 379- Ponte dei Abigo, account of, 270. INDEX. 471

Ponte de Lima described, 325. Pontferrada described, 268. Portalengree, 366. Porte May o, account of, 369. Portugal, Topographical Notices respecttng, 322. Portugal, its provinces, 324. Passes of the Pyrenees, 247. Portugal, modem, origin of, 83. Port St. Mary described, 170 Proclamations, frequent, their índubitable utility ín the Spanish war, 448, Provinces of modem Spain, 85. Punhete described, 380. Pyrenees, account of, 247. Power, raeans of increasing, 40,

Quintana de la Puerta, 255.

Rafael, San, described, 258. Remedy of the exterior evils of Great Britain, S9. Retirement, profound of Batuerea, 136, Revotutionary spirit, 9. Riofrio, miniature palace of, 261. Roads, measured, of Spain, 108. Roads, measured, of Portugal, 344. Roche, St. described. 178. Roche, St. Spanish Iines.of, before Gibraltar, ibid, Rodrigue, last king of the Goths, hi* sepulchre, 333. Romans, (antíent,) their kindness towards British troops, 76. Ronccvalles described, 249. 472 INDEX,

Rosas described, 244. Routefrom Madrid to Cadiz describod, 154.

Saguntum, famous Roman Uieatre there, 219. Salamanca, account of, 272. San Carlos described, 228. ' San Pol described, 243. Sancbidrian, account of, 258. Santa-Fe described, 188. Santa Luzia described, 381. Santa Cruz described, 156. San i arem, 360. San ta i em, its Roman antiquitícs, ibid» SantiNana, account of, 264. Saniianas, 265. Saccavem, 377» Sardinia, 38. , Scamen, mcans of raising, 27. Securíty of the passes of the Pyrauees, &c. ordered by the Spa- nish junta, 440. Sccurity of the western frontier against the Frendi troops ín Por- tugal, 141, Segorlica described, 215. Segóvia described, 25 8. Segre described, 241. Selva AHa described, 246. Selva Caxa described, 365. Setuval, (St. Ubes,) account of, 361. Seville, account of, 163. Scville, account of its cathedral, wíth tíie superb tombs of St. Ferdinand and Columbus, 165. Sicrra Morena described, 279. Sicily, difficult policy in regard to, 53.. INDEX. t473

Siele Carretos, 275- Spain, an admirable theatre of war, 59. Spain, its commercc, 280. Spain, its administration of governmcnt, 286. Spain, rural eeohOmy of, 289. Spain, army of, undcr the o)d regime, 306. Spain, notices geographical and historical, respectir. .* "Z, Spain, its manncrs and customs, 93. Spain, modern, origin of, 82. Spain, provinccs of, 85. Solsona describcd, 241» Soria described, 136. Sarragossa describcd, 141. Sarragossa, cxccllent principal of its charitable institution, 143. Subsidizing svstcm, its absurdity, 52, 55> Sierra Morena, account of, 157. " Sierra Morena, a fine road through it, by Le Maur, ibid.

Tafalla describcd, 249. Tampona, 243. Tancos described, 80. Tarragon described, 232. Tavira, account of, 369. Temblcque, 155. Terrucl, its lovcrs, 144. Terras described, 238. Thoraar, account of, 359. Tolosa described, 252. Toledo, city of, described, 132. Torre de AlmouroJ, 380. Torres Torres described, 216. Toro, account of, 272. Toros de Guisando, 136. 474 INDEX.

Torres Vedras, 359. Torre de Moncorvo, 328. Torrejon described, 138. Tortosa described, 228. Tostado, Alphonso, his literary fecundity, 274. Troops, British, thetr superiority discovered, 57. Troops, British, employed in the Roraan army, 75. Traz os Montes, province of, its account commenced, 328. Tudela described, 248. Tuy described, 267.

V. u.

Valcarso, ri ver of, it description, 268. Valderas, 271. Valença described, 326. Valência, province of, its account commenced, 209. Valência, cítv of, account of, 209. Valência de Don Juan, account of, 270. Valladolid, account of, 250. Vallida, La, described, 214. Vendrell described, 235. Vastedillas, account of, 264. Velez Málaga described, 186. Ventas de Alcolea described, 160. Venta de nos Fraines described, 228. Venta de Guar described, 195. Venta de la Rajnera described, 141. Venta de la Simeta, 228. Viana, 325. Vicaya described, 260. Victories, French, causes of, 66. Vigo, descriptíon oC 266. Vigourous military policy, its advantages to Britain, 4

Villa Castin, accountof, 258. Vi Ha Franca dei Bierza described, 268. Villa Franca de Xira, 378. Villareal, 227, 253. Villalgrando, 271. Villiseca described, 232. Villa Velha, accountof, 381. Villa Viciosa described, 135. Villa VÍ90sa described, 365. Vimiera described, 372. Vinaroz described, 228. Visea, aecount of, 332. Vittoria described, 253. Vivei described, 215. Ubes, St. (see Setuval) 361. Uldecona described, 228. Universal empire, scheme of, 3, 9. Usurpationof theSpanish government, 17. Utrcra described, 187. w.

Walchcren, its use, 39. War of the French revolution, 6. Warlike policy of modem Europc, 1. West-india islands estimated, 36. Wines, cxceUent, 27 1.

Xerxcs, aceount of, 168. Xcrica described, 215.

Yevcnez, accountof, 157. 476 INDEX.

Zafra, 279 Zamora described, 271.

ERRATA.

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