Sha^iisl • Grochet a Lace Scarf

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m:‘f. PIECEWORK XXI

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10 C^RANjsiY t "EiJiVisiF.; A Shiitlan]> KNn'TiiH IN Ze-:al.axi?

.tJirrfirr-rf rtforr

1 2 diLfyttL' Scvirf to Kitic .w.j/,ujn'j .SnuY

1f> I.lt.Y M.^R liUKI.EV 3MTKIC:K, TATTF.k DeS..i,-f atrjf,

i 9 A Mcdallio]! to Hit jj.-j.vuj c.Tt.ri.-

22 Or 1-hiKc.iE'S, ntMiKs, ANJJ Heirlooms r,iKr .s/rruri 25 MF'l’s Li\.ce Co]]L\r to Crochet .'TiVj^iji

25 Lise. Sci-iuehmann’s L.At;i:. TAMi.t-:t:j.O !H im.'M Hi-

27 Ati <.5retibnrg Warm Shmvl to Koii f;,iff«ii .-i. Kirweffi'.i

•On rue COvCFt 24 Srensters, FREE’ Maii>s, Tells, ani> SHAKEsrEARi-

Scu rf to Knftj (k^f ClSitifiitphrr f-ohn iir-f’i’ki' i'hittipr

^*iuffoj^rj:fr J«]^ .Hrrwi .fiiU'Li'Jil. 26 Atl ElKlowint^ J^tirse tc> iM.lkd Cirwr}te THE Twelve Hromesrs in Lace

_ieat\{nr fii'hctt.iK'ri 45 Aeniiliis Ars N'eedie-Ljts'e Insert to Stitch Atfotijzronr CidFi-AiTu n p n r t III L"]] C s/ C OLU M N S "{ wiffJer^i Ji C'.'.Tirirfff ' ii.iriLJ'i'irwjirir KiiTierfSiur 2 XliLllmiih

L'fr(¥ friut tiff t tfiliv 50 Laura fNfSAi.i.s’s Knitteo Petticoat i.acu M.,ry i.yc^nr 4 ISy l^^!* .54 Slietl Lace to Knit

i\ (.uileibdar .srrjuvi ^ .'^'cirvij^ rt'cJrFi M Susan 1.L Anhioxv anh a Letter arout Lacit a l-KIMiVtlhfCiS

.-I jharti'JTj^ fj2 Abbnt'vntions miLLTcL’lLl'iieiuef'

OMIN’K F.XTkA^;

tiiMj'iriS Jiiiif jmiTiTS.'ii tiriSs ^vir rAni^frirtr;

TrjJLl]um‘lbdj|t'rr^ii' I'n-ceVtWk iii^x; rhif ifffw'i ( irf-:v\wii.v\tirii iwki; 45 T R 1 M M I N G S

'ihfi £t^\}rsii cflticilioft of thitrSs, iiPicj pri^fn^ffwns f/iNjftmv iff«'Jj.(;frirJ'jL'r//ri[i?ri i jprlsr^i!

rWLh^fi^ipk’j cujcf jJirif iiji" PFO jjLViLVcTfij' ifjnjjVrtWf. 'ihi' pallniniH j'priXr'tfCfrrJrii for i/iisc nttiiH ftccciitMvrk Airtkics Art’ irorWrJ t’.^fHcTfjrrts ihi'/ atfinnwi or ilit orijffjjrjj puMkatkn. L'sl' f^k’PH fli jJjr/rtrt' ivniiinpt iJifm /j> ather *io havefttw UNfJr J^n-PFr!

Fuchsia-Design in Pomes or Edging

liy IL Vuun['burf;

CJse (iny mitubLT CR^chL‘t-^:^)lLc^n^ from 5U

tcv 70. Fo-r upptr pL‘tal!s^ ivhilL*, ninikiL" an ulyn-

j^jlccl rinp of (5 double kiH>LS. I ])ki>l) ^ Umsi.

5 tlouble knots, (lostf- [jfjav^ ahoul on-e eigblh iRth of .ind ttiaki annlhi^r olongali-'d

ri of S double knals> t'ult^n in bist of ] st

ring, [5 double kiicrts, I ]?kOl) 5 CiOK'S. 5 double

knots, close. Lelvic oiK el.gbCb [ni;h of thread

hMIJ ilViike aii elongated ring nf 5 double knots,

fasten in last pJent ofrin^just made, d double

knolE, Paste]] in ne,st lo l^isl pkol, (5 double

knots, 1 pieotl 4 times. 3 dnuble kuots. dose.

|.jeave eigtilh inch of thread and make an-

other kige ring, elongated, of '> double knots,

fatleji in last pkol of ring just illtule. (5 d^Rible

knots, 1 picoil H times. 5 double kncvls, dose.

I .cave about 1 indies of thread and cut.

Kor lower petals: Wind bobbin u'ilh pink

and fasten lo loose tlireatl of first tvliiie petal

nuiJe, lie securely und cut ends. Make an don-

jaled ringof (S dnuble knots, I pLcot) 7 Ltmt's,

5 double knots, close. I^isten thread tlannigll between two eenier wbite rings under one

eii’lilb inell of thread between rings as you

wc;jti!|:l through a pieot. I'ben make another

elongated ring of ^ double knots, fasten in last

picot of ring jiust made, a double knots, fasten

in nt'Kl lo li'ist picnl, (3 double knots, I pieolj

^ lenies, 5 double knots, dose.

Tfiiti fJuhian adapted inSltortipni fUr the Ulied FuClISia-Dfiiign in nolms oe Edging by Nrllie H. Vaunghurg iuund in iiie*Joven''tsef 1525 Issue ot tweedteci^^f i»5Pd Piic-scnci,i Finca PtrlffCaiton, si^e 12. *I72(t Vety (liirkCiivcivderaind jtCHXd Xyhite.

i'j- }i^ Crt'LT. I Tic pink ball-lhrf^ld securely to loose ikrc.nJ i>f wliitc rinj t[iSt [IJtldc und cut ends. Make a chaiii oJ' 5 5 double knots, fasten iu Lhi pi-cm of luii'f^'L’ wJiite ring, F double knrlfii faslcn lu second picot, (b double knots.

I picot) 3 limes, 5 tlouble knots, fasten through middle pLcot of pink ring. double knots, l luny pvicot, { double knot, I long picot) lu'iee, 4 double knots, fasten through ccniL-r picot of Ollier pink ring, (5 dcmble

knots, I picot J 3 times, 5 djoubL- knoti, fasten in iieJit to last piicot oflfirge HvhLtc ring, 5 double knots, fasten

Ln last picot of ring, 5 double kiiots. Tie threads se- curely beiih-een 2 white rings and cut. ror the upper pari of calyx: rasien double (bread, The cngrjwing for the white, to first loose picot in center of one of inside wbke rings, and make a chain of (5 double knots, lacted Edgi^gfrcm the small ring of (5 double knots, pieol) 3 times, 3 dotiWe knots, 1 picot) iwicc, 5 double knots. Tlien a 1 N'eviHinb«r 19'2& iisueof dose. A chain of (F dotihlc kn-nts, L pLcoi) iTeice, S double knots, hasten threads ihrougli lit Loose Nw(t!Kfpf1 iW(iggujr^^. pieol toward ccnier of other small elongated ivliite ring arsd cut threads.

Tor the stems and leaves lo center flower: haslcn double ihread, ivtiicc, through middle picot ot ring in calyx of flower and make a chain of lb -double knots, I piCOt, 10 double knots. An elongated ring of (5 double knots, I picot) 5 times, S double knots, fasten to 7th picot of large petal of Hower,

cLo-sc. kcpcat for otlwr side. (3 double knots, 1 pLc-ot) 5 Liinei, F double knols.

hor stems iind leaves lo tower Hower: hasten double thread, W'llite, thtiotigh ecnicr picot of ring Ail in caLj'x of flower and make a chain of lO doiibte knots, I picot. in double knots. elongated ring in of {3 double knms, I pLcui) 1 1 Imics, 3 double knots, close. A chaLn of lO double knofs, faslen center picot of pLnk petal of center Hower, 10 double knots. Another teat, A third chain fasteriLog to center pic-ol of large W'hilc petal for eenter flower. A third leaf. I'lc and cul threads. When upi.ier rote and Is made, faslcn long pink picuL at bottom of Jlos^vr lo 3d from last pieot of last leif, with needle thread or while making.

For the lop tow; h.ssten double thread, white, through picot in ring.it lap of fltrwer. Make a chain of 8 double knots, I picot, {2 double knots, I picot) twice, R double ktiuis. 'A kif {eSongaled ring)

knots, close. chain of S double knots. 1 picot (2 of (F douhlc knots, ] picot) II times, S double A pieol to chain of double knots, I picot) twice, 8 douhlc knots. AiiOther leaf, fasten illg center 2d rOW

Ariothef chain- Another ring, fasten iiig center picot lo picot of other chain. Another chain. Another ring. .Another chain, fasiejl to another floorer. Another chain. Repeat from

— /'fttjri r^JC SMVtMWr 1925 tnfNeedleer.lll: M,lgs?inc

VbiJ nre frmrtt'Lf to i’Oiiiribiitc vintugc paitcrti (!930s Of for frrJrcJc or i'dgijig that yott'kx^ foittiii twndf. pfense i-metii rt Cirert.r rfttrtjri! of the (irlide or LvJ^drr^, m sajrt of ihi^ origiftiii itiitritoiiatts. twii thi- iOftrCO SO plcceu^^rtljr'-bfreniVLTi-c.ccJFFr (pialiO pui THmmtigs itt the s\ihjcci

or)jT cTFrtf iJif sunrCf to Sine) or oitiit rl photograph of ths pkee, n photoiOpy of f/te 4>n]; Instruffrtms,

TrwitJiings, Piecework, 201 K. Fourth St., iovohituh CO g(}o,t7-5^55: pSeasc ianiittk rt (inyiime

Sid^photic FFHmfjcr.

.1. 1:-<: IT K i: 0 Mat |i-vi. mi r 1 r w S 1 Granny Cheyne

A Shetland Knitter in New Zealand

[ M A ]1 G A R i; T S O V li

fn J0y5j fftif sImiA eTsi:L’et Miir^iiret Stove ra rLVJiin: ^k'jWLiyru (rj pcWSri'rlif W

rts ong/mit 'I/u' nvii j-jiojt than iOCiysnf$ i^iii n)ii\ had K’l'w by C/rryNf.^SruTTK m/r4^

i-i'i'^frTiicj f/k! rt'fJ'yrjrrrtiFr .tyifj-i-i'J rM UViijjpL'-tt in Kni^Uvd 1 [LMrloom Desagjis from Antuirul (lie Wyild

fj.ow’itrrki CiJami^or /rja-nvi'^vit, eji'p/t>riS jJjf ifhU'iry Iwhimi the and in rnaker. —Hdftor

N THIS AGB OF instant UK [CATION uiitl ^ir il i-s dilHcult to ijnagiiK hard life

must have beiJ3i itj pronipt severil tliousand iJitrepid iJihiibitfiiits of a yrxiup of tiny iHlani:l^ lyiny benvee]i

I Nortvay lijuJ ScotFnnd —the Shctlands and Orkneys— to travd litcrjlly to tin: ei'uls. of tKo earth (o settle

lit ki similar island environment not far from the Aiitarelic erjiiliaeitt. '[heir inoiiths-]oji|. journey would be

frcinght with harf[!ihipk and tliere wa^ lUi guarantee that (hey would ever return.

Because inany immigriUltS frotn Shetland erra- In I 7 1 Sir luliuH Vogel ( 13 JS-lSSy), who iHitCr be-

UL-oualy recurded as beiii^ Scollisiu it Ls dilhctill 10 know came prime minister of Neiv Zcaiand, ininodueed a]i as-

u'ho among them was the first U> arrive in New' ?^ealtmd, sisted ijnmjgmdon scheme. "J his coincided with the larul

An Andrevr' Gieynen the mailer of the hfig Hee, is known clearances in Shetland, and as the inhabitants of iihecland

to hiTC calted in to llic far norlh of S'ew Zealmld in lS4 [, and Orkney were perceived to he best suitcNd to settle on

|his Andrew could well liave been a iiicinber of the fi'im* Stew'art [sKtid. ^ri isolated and inhuspitahle locaUuu olf

ily of tiranny Cheynes liusband, also .Andrew, who w-as Elie soulh avast of New Zealand, they were specifically

horn in DujiroRRnesE, Shetlandt in tti^O. EEhvited by the provi^icial government to settle there. As

The view (rom

Surlilnjr^h Head a[ th«

leirtliern Uj> o( the Slictlnnid m.iinUiKlrear OunrDK^rie&i, where Grjnny Cheyn* mikied and lived h^fore

immiqraling to Mew Zealand

in 1374. P!\Njyoft\ bf

Jt.Tri'.i T'Tjitcr C

.'iTiiirwj^nv^.

I« PlI.HII'lVUHK. ] r.e hW'4»l.}. ^ I ^ L .C L1 M gL'^^a^ [Lt laborers and car).i(.']]Ct.'r£, iil^Ehy They arrived at l^ort Chalmers, Dunedin, on

(>rih

Ik ^ervii]](& lllnnugb no one on Shetland at the time ivUh 'vOtnkil pegs ? lid call be dismantled easily. 'Ihcre is v.as in a peisition 10 flmjskw dmiicstic help. no record of the! I* having hrnuglU wool. ISecausc Andrew

Atthoui^]] grants oflartii. boat^ and litics, and provi- Oieyne gained employment as tin instiector with the Inver- sions for six montlts had providcLt. the ictl lenient cargill City Council, Margret did not need to earn a liveli- did [tut tloLiriiJi. VVriliiljjSOf the time fitiggest that the new hnod like her gruiidfrtotlier. Granny ThcMnscm, in Shetland,

Mitlers, whiDie homeland laad 110 tree^: and whose build- who had had to walk for miles to mH her knilting. In fact, ings. thus were built exclusitrel}' of slOiltf. laclkd the ikilts there is no record that anyo'f Margret's extemled family in

For building houses of LimL>er. New Zealand sold their krlitlirtg; the shawLs that they spun

A planned fishing Lndus(n- to i-’reivide smoked and dried and knitted were all gifts for family and friends. n$h for lhe goldfidds in Victoria-, Australia, also failed The wool that Margret used came from Wen>dhtod&

Sjilte an abundance of fish in the sea, as tilt MdkJS found Station, which had been established aS a caltle run in the ivjt-cts ofllie I’m'caus fitrail, ivliich separates Stew'arl Iftiifl, Romney sheep were kepi on the properly hi 1862, land from Lh

1 Icr of IJCliIL It was to hivereargill that the spinner and knitter derwenar) aod long Johns, which were dyed pink. ex‘ kncHvn as Granny Cheyneew^enlually arrived to join mem- LjuiSite sJiawls were ^pun front these tlceces, as well. bers of her family ii lio h;ti;ll'ieeome established there earlier. The v™ol for the shawl ihal T repaired leas spun in the

Margret I'ltomsonH hortt in !fl37, married Andrew^ Shetland yarn iradilicnl for fine iliawls: a tim-ply w'orsted

ojiportLtrtity In spin Shet- CihetTie in Dunrossnei^s In 1 862, and in lfi7S, Margret, An- with little Lwiil. Klviilg had the drew, and their three childien, along witli nineteen other land ivooL fro-m a flock in L'nst, one of the fCorth Isles of family members, migrateil to Ne'v Zealand on the fessic the Shetlands, that provided Ikecc for tine shawls, 1 have

til n son Aliy G

the Foveaij.^

Strait, wtiicb wparaies tbc

IslartU frpm thr South lilanJot New Zealand.

It was here

that Sheilan^i Irnmtgr#n1i

flsdrg thiT-l.Tind

cle^uiKf in

Llseir hoaielanif

intlie 1S70S

fust settled. reiiWi^Tfi

M AYl Ju^i- tots eit.ehWtiKk II ic? ttin* scl'wL Vh'i4li l'kl^cc g.n'^^vn hl:^n:: in fioJ%'ed with certainly. In my travels and research in many

>Jch\'' Zcialamd. Fine croisbr-ed hra&l-cnoHsed with jV-kTino countries, t have been intrigLied bs'' tlie iiiiiily ihllihlritiit^

Hitnlbriniiced tn the n;itive:Sliet[aiiJ anJ it is iin- in patterns whcrevicr lace is knitted. Twu points are of par-

(lerstandnhle why MiiT^rtl w-yutd liytvc choscil it for ber ticolar inleresl': The first Is that early patterns were knitted

sh?l^^l. AllhoujiJi llie tk'SiyililhiHt USt\1 ww t^:uli- hjf knitters "readij'ig'* the knitting itself, translating what

piilU-Tii$ fr^iiiri li-sr hL-Kin^ltknd. 1 ktirticJ when wotrk- they saw and nrvt relying on pattern bonks. The second is

In^ out the patterns for repaLrtti|; the shawE that sbe had that most of these knitting communities wcnc asscKiiLled

made adaptations Co accommodate the number of stitches trilh seafarers who itu dOubt ‘I'.Otdd Itav^ brenigltl lioi'ite

and rows in each element of the desLJ'Cl^ espcciHilly in tiie scHivfiiirs Pr gifts of knitwear to wiveji and sweethearts,

borders, so that theyal] w Lijbed ig| li^rnicMiyr whi> in turn would ha\’’e read and adapted the lacedcsigiis

Shetland lutpc patlenis fit Mary ^Valker Pliillips's def- for their own use. I accept that most patterns could be ar-

ihiliOiJ of pcfkctly: They are escctlent es- rived at independently; still, the Estonian T'wLg patterns

amples of using kniHed lacc {pattern every row rcsultLn.|' and the Print of the Wive patterns ofShectmld are Soihli"

ill a single thread l>clween the holes), taec knitting (pat- ilar tliat 1 ^vonder if this i^aii example ofa shared reodlng.

tern on alternate rows resulting in two twijtetl ihreiUls Granny Cbeyne died in ImrercargLlI in Jea-Ving

betw^een tlie holes), and e’^^let lace {in which the lioles a legacy of shawls whose compde.'c patterning and excep-

are separated by knitted fabric). These variations give the tional workmanship arc the c^juals of the best of the lace

knitter the freedom to make the elaborate designs that we spun and knitted in Ishctland. L regard i1 as a greul priv-

see in these shawls. ilege to have been invoIvcHl in tlie restoration of oite M

The patterns depict the nainral enviroEimeitt, but how- Lhem, and I hoj^e that it now can he enjoyed by many

I hey came about lias bet'll a pufcKle that may nevtr be re- ntore' gynerallons liere- i n the A nt ipodes. ^

A Granny Clicync Scarf lo Knit

M R. t; A K i; r S r o i-:

adiipted this SWtf foini patierns^ used in the border of required to make the scarfi a shorter cravat-size scarf may

I tlte shawl GrannyCheyne made in the nineteenth cen- he made from ono skein.

tnry (see the preceding article). The scarf was knitted in

I STB U CT I (J N'S Artisan Gossamer Lacc Merino, a Iwo-pty yarn a'vailabk' ^carf online from Holland Etjoad Yanl Company. T'lvo skeiits ane With crochet thread, use ihL- pros Lsional method to

GO 20 sis. WorkJk'l-Up Row of Ikginnlng litlging Chart. .\1 ATERt A i.s I

' VvWk Rowi 1-10 of BegiimErtg F.dgingChan ^ littie^. Artisan Cossaroef Lace Merino, 1 M% mefi-no wool yartt. laceweight, 5A7 yards (500.i m)/1 gram skem, skeinj or Waioral; http:// 6 {0,6 k) I Work Row- 1 of CoFPCtr Chart as foil: Work 1$ sts iit pail, hairandrciaclyam .to. nz pick up and k 72 sts along the straight edge of edging Mecdles^ size & (2 mm) or size ncKicd lo obtain gauge, and 1 double painted, size d {2 mm), far gralting back lo the provisional CO, unravel ihe crochet thread, Crochet thread, small amount for provisional cast-o^i and place I he 19 sts unto the dpn, ^vo^k an charted patl 5ti1.

to — 1 1'll its. Work Rows of O’lFUfr Chart— I N Tapestry needle j end

1 I sts. Work Rows 1-1 11 of Body Chart evnee, then rep Rows

Finished size: ^8 inchES 1 .9 cm) long and 12 inches (10.5 cm) {15 ; j Jpcf washir*g nnd Wocling 99-1 M eleven more limes— >17 points total around edge; Gauge: 38 sts and 56 rows = 4 Inches 0.2 cm) in garter si, blocked (1 9 along bottom edge, I a.1 each corner, and L if along each

side. Flace all sts on si holder. See page hi tor Abbreviations and Technigues Work A 2nd pivee the ^ame as the tst jm,l then grafi The chans for this project are available In PDF format at Ihe 2 pJeee.^ tug, malehliiglhc shapes of the patt. Nalcs: pjcccworkmagMinc.com/Charts-IHLislratioris M the pieces are knitted in dlflerent Jireeiions, contprennises

C.-I. ii I' I rc r '.V I*! F: k Pile l.’n'Ll R k M A T: I s: I . LTCI M 'i' -'jf ^

ii*t

Mir^Br€( Sht^l^ritnato-ih^^rFinapirLd byBrt bri^iiul ShMF^f^dihavirlPcniin^ byG^Mny Gnsyrie after :li€ Imma^r^tcdt^ MewZtHluri J-fifi^jtn tyjjf C(vj.

:i»i i !• I c^n K. JJ ^1 A T 1 1 U f! r ECE W 1 J

ne^d (0 tw iiiad'C whUf gm.fllngthjij(es (ogcili- A BOOT Tin: A ormn: a rn D ts i tlS t k. .tf.r{^on.J Sruie ^jiirs ni

-h'ra' iiirJj.iirf ijjirf HJfj: f\yt itrtfs fJlilf jJ^li' Awi JirJi,(;iiEi'?l,( Jrtr i-r. I) i.$ Linport^nii to the garter en^rrect fFii' ifndiYirflr i^twiVrcJ fihe w> rtht/e rUie if«iji;ii-ji: iirJiF. tnvvf rctwr/j.'. r.? tu ensure [he laCc L'Hjges treali' [lie i]lu.!?icii [lie preterm (Urtirrtv iiriit r«rerr irtnMgt fiiiT.TJjw -Tiirwr iVuvrtvrj^i ws ii Ufe

being cunlinuuus. rn r/i|' fimrjf*iij I,tf Y^jterr itirJrJi-r/ -pfiftfrariinv .nn^ ^ir/jjwy rJur

I'biishtng fJirtr liHTA: utJT fliMmirjf Ji’yi'ti’ jsA'jViifr. J Fir ^ivita tlTei1:n|" (,')ri|^in:il

I Lnbct-tnuieii [..ifp Cuijf|Cvrj]'fl.- jItj-, lV^Sr}t2>\i^ Wrapped U'ci^ic in ends. Wash gentlj' by hiuid in hot ivaierwith Lii Lace (Ln\~L']iiidrCIelciTxdu: Jitters cjve, itrijjr rJjr mn\ti pure soap or neutral wwt I^inse and pin out ivhilc ofirtr rvii^rch iir thft itmt. wet with iufheienl tension to open out the lace. Steam

lightly and unpin ^vhen cnmplctdy dry.

1

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1 + kon RS: podWS '+ - c. t rion FtS,:(((!nW5 + 1 * 1 -

r* •* Q f; + '' [T| kltbl y\ Ol kftegonltS + I I -

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I

C/irtrt/ PFNijf tf ^t/roJtvtijNwJ/cjr/JL'rjK.jrKr/

vv II VI Ay I p u s I J:ti H Ml] c; f B I,, Lily Mae Burley Patrick, Master Tatter

D t L O R B Ei C Ei A S L

IIA' MAE BURI.ElY, who uniuld one duj'be- ciiy GfiiivJiiiLi PiUfJck (we called lier "'Grandma S^al”),

\i’as born in lESHf} near North Branchi Michiyan; nhe" lived to aye nbieCy-Lt™. She yOt her lirs-tiob L at age thirteen in a teoolcii jnill, Too j^ouiiig to 'vork there legally, ^hc nvoyld hide under a pile ul^ yarn or in 3 ^lorerooiTi in tile back if ail Liispecior caiiie arouiid. She wa& proficaeitl at nmiiingiill of

the machines.

Lily M j? Surl£y, iKdraJ Infidi kfi, workihg iOi i hlichi^dh woiifein m1IL unknown. Circa I W2.

LI Id P 1 1 1: e. W L1 R K ri I.CJ W R R M L -

:iE niiLI^ in a ball of thread or yarn, a

ColuillLNiVivill^ Yali:. '[ilci. tatting shuttle, a crodiel jf-LH lu^rne for (hg wtckiiJiJ hook, or knitting Jieedles. from Ijcr joL> irt Yale. s]if She loved to make things would ridf cIk" !>Ulj;Vi;o;Kli for people., nnd it seems lilt' 27 mil-L'S knij (hat she was always making lo North Lirunclu u'lufrtf mitceus. doilies, lahleeloths. her father would meet ]ier or afghnins for sonujotie. wi ih a horse- inul Many of the* stories of to lake Klt the real of the Graudniu Rac's younger

homL'. She met her fu- years 1 learned from my ture hua-b.indf ’Walter Tat- mother or, more recently, rkk. ^^ij;ekend in North from niyeldesl sister, har-

Rritneh w'lille n^ailiug for b,ira, and my cousins. Orice

fiither to pLek her up. a woman asked Grandma

In lyl2^ Idly Mae amt to tat a tablecloth to her tValter ]nn1rrk'd. Tliey had $ pee ificat ions, and tJiey c]]R-e tlflu^hieriy: my molli- agreed on a price of S75.

LT^Rulhihofil in 11? Id. '^''ir' Grandma finished the la- ginia, born in Et^L6n mid bile h>th. bul the wom-

VerJa |^3^e^ born in 11^19 i^n did not pay her, and after Grandpa Ralriek'-S Grandma was leftwiih the death From influeti/ti on lableclolh. r believe tlial

January I of that year. Ver- ihut cahlecloth was passed da jume died at a^e one- dow^ii fir^l 10 my moih- and-a-half. cr, then lo Ltarbuira, ihen to me- ] gave it In

Although Uty Mae reeeivetl some turn 1o my danghler CtiiJdace, T.ily's great help from family members, she main- granddaiighler. 'Hie lahledolh is mimd. ly hntd to fend for hers^elf the best measures more ill an bVz feel (2 m} she could- Aj; if life was not already w'ide, and contains 1,9^8 riiedidlions roujjh tnough. she soon lost her %'i- as well as many, many uddiLiuiial rings that form addilicmal patterns. sion. Si ill, she i niUmgC'd j^lanl and liar veil a yiifclfu. JHit ii]j food for 1 decided lo check out the slo- lheivii]ier,Cul llrewiTiOLl. and raise n' lhat flrandma made each of lier SLirvivinjr ehildren. her granddaughters a tailed table-

Lily Mae iVfll |^lto^^'n in the elolli as a hccdJing present. Barbara, community for her heHtUtifnl knit- who mariried in 1^57, has a tahle- ling, eTocheLing, and caiLtilg; ilie had doth mefliitrlng abnui 'tft inches ( 122 prob.ib]y learn eti all of die-se skills as cmJiMpinTe wvj|li many medallions and a jujung girL I'll alw-ityi^ rerneuit'tr the a lovely edging. My COUJiin Sliar-cvii had apron she used to wear. Us Ini’ pockelS also received a st|uare lahlvdolh. but hav- ntleit with supplies for her currtnl pitijeCI; ijig no daughlers of her oivn. she gaw it to

Y&l>: Round (iljlecicjth tntted by lily M.w Burley PutriekCGrandma Pil'’!. ftei (2 ml wide, cpritninirg 1,5^6 mc-Jdllitins. Collection prOind.-icc FuIsHet.

BomoM DL'fliiilaFihcKiund LiblKlmh wiUn l,99fl meclalllonii.3.flcdby lily Mne Burley Rll^ick(^J^dndn'^a Pai'K Collet,icfl of C#r,dnceFtil>hcr,

|ie.vr.i^ijJii- lJ'_f,v (2Vvd. her i;i';tcr lune'ji d3u.ghtc:i' colors, she svouild mark all

CKerrii.'. June herself dificm'- the thread or yjrn of a given

crwl cu-tN t^iWeclodis in color with a different nutu-

a cettiLr Ttie larger one, I'N’r of safety pins so that she

round uild iiieui^urirtij alK^ul could di!>tUigtJi5lt them in

64 indit's ( (63 tm) uenuss, is cvi.seti sigficed person Witsifi

much Like itie urie cliac I i^uve lu.iiiie wherb s-lie wus ready to

m^' dan '[ he sm^iIkT one -chiuigc colors.

bR KciLiare and Rimilar lo Jiar- Jf it hvas lime for the

bara^s and Clhcrric'R. [t is my mail carrier, we w'outd Wnilk

theory that (he round one the (|uarter of a mile denvn llte

^urob^bly belongeci jo- June’s ro-adway to sec if (.ir,mdma

mojher, jny Aibiit Virginia, Jiad received anylhing in the

?nd the square one was mail. Some d,iys, it would be

hepie's wedsUng gift itx l^SS. more Talking Hooks, a letter

Irx addition to the (I'^'e tat- fro-m family or friends, a cat-

ted t^lileclenlis tlinl wc have eiog. or perhaji-s the latest Ls-

J oca ted to dale. Grandma !^ue of ineg^J.lne,

niso made m^ny, many JuL- We Hvould sii down witlt her

liesi 4il leasl otte ivoinan's crocheLeti tlresR, udiicK June nirvv art J read tetters, caLalogs^ itnd lilmgai'lnes 10 ItsY. Gmildpnia

has; and numerous beautiful crocheted children’s dreFS- loi.'ed ordering neiv oostunie je^sielry, hmg cotton .sloekingSf

cs. A photograph show's my cousin [''itlrjck wearing one orsDtnelliingc'lEC-fnHn the catalogs. Wedsowciulddeserihe

of the crochcled dresses hvJien he seas young (he was em- each of tJic projects in U'nriJ!irt3:kef,Hind she would decide if

barrassed by the photograph later in life). she toanted to trv''cineof them.

After .Aunt Virginia married and had children, (IranJ- -Grandma developed dcmenti,a and had lust her abil-

nia I'at lived with their family. Grandma svould watch ity to make the intricate tatted tablecloths by the time E

tlic children while (licir parents worked in tli

dustty. SiDiiislimes Grandma wotilsl visit our family fsir a ted tirghHiit, {VvHirs l-'iler. my tnerther ^voiild suJfer from the

few- weieks during ihc stuntnerr. hater, with V'irginia’s chib SiStlie type ofdvme'ntLa,) While cic.ming out my parents'

dreit grown, Grandilia rttovcd in wadi uS 'H-hilt' I was ^Litl liou.sc- iifkT tsoLEi rny grandmother and mother hail dieil.

u k'cnager. we fumitl at least 20y lititHlkerdiivfs, mos-l of Ihviii with

Oh, Itow ] kwed Iter! She lw"e

ami listen Ut our stories. She alwajTS. kept her tea^TO^ near- .Miuiy u'ere wurti beyOrnl usefulness, bill after ttiy siblings

by, along with her radio and her special phonograph on had taken wliat they wanted, I look the rest and made a

which she wcmld play Iter Talking iSooks frotti the LLbrart^ patchwork-style throte piltmv from sonie of the iiilvage-

of Congress. .Although she could re,id liraitte, she much able pieces u"itli a fabric reproduction of Grandma and

preferred listening to the recorded books, fihe also Imcvd Grandpa's wedding photograph. Several of my children,

country music. siblings, and cousins liked it so much that they each rc-

My mother, my sister Eilaine, or I would re-.td her the que.sted a pillow oflKeirown in tnemn-rj' of Grandma Pat.

pattern directiojis for \ehichever project she ivas work- 1 hai-'fl ahvays IcH that u'hcji a i.Terson loses one of the

ing on. and she wouid he good for honrs. {My cousins ,sen^ie,s, another scjtsc is inlensific'd. In Grandma's case, it

h^d done the 5u me thing hvhen she lived ^^.'i1lt theiHr} As w;AS her ^ertse of lOtach. Harbar.is,trug,gled and struggled

we reinl tlte pL.uiern, Grundiita ^vas^hle co vi^mdi^e the lu leiinl huw to knit aS li teenttger. if she made a ttvislake,

design bUid rnemoriKe it, If the paLcern iuvohrd dilTererpL site w-ould luke her kit i1 ling 1c> Gnindm^t, wlio u'ould iiiid

S^iu^rr tntHcslQth tatted tf lily- M^Qurlr^ t'Ijrnndma P,>tlLltty Mn^andXVnltcrf,itrisk'f pl>!>logr,ipliihdis|AsyL‘d n lhiC

EdtrleclDth.CiullLMlk^dl Leiay ,okJMulHu IIjII.

J’-riiii(\Tiyi.D l

li IR I' E l ,C I. W H K. I'l: LtYi iiHK.''i.4Hi.^^isi..eim Taljiedoch 1#ttedb¥

Idly Mni:^

Duricy PaEritk

^Gr^i-Khna Pji"). AbDUiM inciwi H63{inlln

<^ijim«1cr,

Wlcctipn

Jffi ttfuitfiy ^ ifir diiriUjr.

tin.- cnLsitakc: by run ning hd^r tingers ovlt hIjc ivurL CuuSiit we'fX' iJoln^. [ dbin"l le^irn 4n kiibt and e rochet until afler

SI>:Lron me Ihial Cratulniri Uughl her tu crochel LiiaJ Gramlniu dikv.1, flild I rygrclted ihiii 1 had not le-arjicd the kliil bu1 1li'il she ne^'er learned lo lal because Gmmima’s skillSi rKirEii lier, > ftngefi (lew sl> rji-sl thal she ne^ er was. able lo see srliaL lliey

^l AT K K [ A I s /] Medallion fa Tat Aunt LydiiCi. CrtKlK't Thread, 1 DtWfc CQttan threati size 10, 'too yards (lfiS.fi m^yball, 1 ball (ri White; wmv ]1 h 1.0 It I: S <:. II A s I- .co.Ttunddark.CQm Tailing shuttle

cann-msaylEial I truly rov.‘ogili/ed tliy gfJltld mothers ttlleilts ttniil t piniTlK-d lice: 5 inchei (S.l ena) in diameter I isignect up For a latting class and bronglil ii] the LaCktl (.abledolb {SdJe

SI ,1V.' t U S J Ju I .H I'l Dll rVi^ J.I: If her shmile lltw lia^knijul

fuiili so efTorlkssI}^ ] siud-

Ll'J the medaLLion^ ^vithLn. tliL*'

tsbketu-Lh^ liclei mined, thi^ se-

quence of lhe paULTH, and tat-

ted nne mcdaLLic»n that eomcf;

scrj' cHo-ic to malchinjf (.Erand-

ma^s wenL

] X !^T kl:ct I ox s

McJalliLin

lolal of I2 pi-

eces, Cut 1 1lf wd Hind tk ends-

2\ Sriinill wilh a

pitot on the center R. RW,

Leiive ijpace. Lir^'

d}. R^V. Lcas'c spacon Small

K(4*4) Co n.e^c.t pLcoC on the

^ center R. R\S‘. Leas'e tpacc.

[.ar5,e R(4+'i-4--l) to las.t pEcnt on the previous lar^c R. R\V.

Leave space. Sina!ll R(4+4J to

ni$Kt picot on the ctnler R.

R\v. T-euiV^ spate- Rfj^eat from

u lit |] «IL pitots of 1 ht tonter

R hiiM(! asmall RatcachedrOn

the last laij^e Rf work l+(lo

Last pitot on previous hlr^e

R3‘l-4+(lo the 1st picot on the

1st lar|;c' KH- Close rinj;;. Cut

thread and tie ends tof^elher.

ftnoirr niF fH cm icm pf.siomfpl

fnji'r {'hr,r Iiiini ft> imi Jirf iiud nfjOyi

Jiuiv/zir^r, -dF^iVJiErji^

ci/i\nli dihf cri /f\i' {h\ntl

iff S\''frf(\cJttnN d^irti^iw-i ISMhW fi)i

H4\nt-N>ify, nSfir irV'iAyif it ^iJirA' JiVitr

IrfJ J (l|frv HAfUJ^V iUIlf WJlVlTlF

in 2ViVJF?^;iiT MivJi4' iicii raraJ iii.jiV

mnin. .STir iiirJ itifi tiw^iinf j

UTiiJr/ ui RJnriif.r Fn rfrdjir riF.ri^iiT'f

JriOr4‘ tlifif

llie t.'ittrd mndalllDn mndt by iJie .luthinr. It ivns nvpi

(jCEed k>(1galtLf ^hehadr'asl her vi^inn-The mLMdalliDn iishGiunivithaphDlagraph of Lily DUrlcy and Walter Patrkh. nn their v,H.^ing

dey in 19-12 ar-d Lily's tricing iHaiccleitlieauclur Lrted Llif^slyuttle totdtLlieni«4Tailiari.

J'tmVf(r.y+ wiT'A tiuf fhoK^yjih mmn-Tf y Jlir ^^¥f.^^lr

X I'im:i IYork ni riM'(»nKM-^4',A./rxi:.rnu . 0/ Heroes, Hooks, and Heirlooms

(/nijj LTPi^'f^rrri^ else, I wani to bt u hoic. My parents are /if/m’j tLVjjjjjL’ //urjPiijrT'JVL’jf tfiiler's ii’cfr (TfnJ' sftjrfLW

fatuity att svvr agafti." So tire liicfrsi ihoiigiitsaf \Ifti, n /l’H'js^i ^frJ m I'a;>'c Siffotis }mni^-tuinlt wowfl, OJ ] ltT^K;H^ ] [oukE,

and HcirLoonis (i^hitnciclphini fcwisii Fnbfiitilion Sijfd'cfji'. 1997). As port of her elasss Heritage Frttfect, AJjct j>

to briftg rn old fuiitiiy piuttograpfis ami afamily JrfjVJntJW! io i/rdiFif ivjV/j her dasimtites atui theirfamilies. opcl-

of Mia'^s famity, vAiicii jervt’j tri di paitifui rfpprmdffr (tj Affrik PHrt(^iLT of lertifyht^ fois ofheromi

jjia/Jn.'i' jiJJdf attd thi; life ihni was iartt from her hitfore cottwig^ to Aoterko- bin heirloomi exist ,rtjs nearty aH

fHiSfitSSitmi from Mkl'i mothtrifurtdly ivJjfw NtKtsfvreed ihi^m iirvJVif (^rdTdVJ'jEJPhrd!. f^n? hi'lp ofo khtd

Hitctiletuork ^\op OJi'/jfr ^riiroii-'pj/fi.'prri'y]! hugk story ofsurvivingfamhw Aj trehimiby croehetruy nml seUiuy,

hitv. Mfit kortts (’JUfj/jf/ and fwpes ii^Nff sJiiL'-i'dJpi :? coHarjust (ikit thfone ii>f ofi^/

ufiier. ‘the jbthvh\jr h exeerpied frf.n)i Of ] [trinii. l [LH.ikSf urul ?k'iT]yiMns with frer/niishn. —Ihiitor

Ati;, I COUl,[^ CUOCHKT A E. ACt tOM ^oukiteK Us story, . , How MiHti |grijndmn!licr| cnotigh

to il iui:C d-ays befope she h"ih sliut ouCsLJc (he j=]ietU>, Iionv Lt displayed ht;r dij^nlty to tli^e last mnnie-nt.

I Cuuld I iiosij'ii j sampk' Iri^iij’lt;: tu tk' like scurJ' til Llie neek? Could 1 kee|i the s^ptii‘^1' cvtTt, Ihe pieuls till the

stvme size iiiid kanlng in (hie right direction?’’

Va/ifi 5>1umv'S famiry, including h^rgdaiKilmijEhef Rald^-ilHtL'd a1 reFt,an wF»jn thc-chjiActxr Mutti in her navc-lOrF^dvor^J^odliSraixf IPhllJCfelnhia:J£wiihPubliC^1c^ Society. 1^97] iSba^ed.SilEbn'i; Fdmi^w^^ dL-jpodlcd riamSEL'Ilin. Ge-rmiany^lD Pol^rxldn

t>cto<>er 20. 1^30, and icattared to various pTacas.. Her uncra.ac backlefi, cstebrai^ hisbariniE^v^aliifiasniall syikagp^ue in Radbin,

Pninnd, in June 1 &59 wilih this s nsall Hjgmenr of the facnlly. Af Ear thas day, he and Fjye's mothef never saiv iheir parents agiain.

flftv.in^ijiri n'oiir/jy

FIKH:fc'Vta».e T I t e I 'n-'CVK.^ M AI. A K r S t .-HtH fjyc- ^VcL"k!; later, at her tichtjul's Ekirkiuin "So IgL mg explain. My grandmother Cpvrraf Siltbit^ Ot Ir-aiT, jMLi fL'^ieali her crtifheteil luce ivas deponed from her home and beeame fy'P’Otl

ii a refugee on the ruoi still she managed to and Ijenselfyi true anti i-iarloo/ni'

'‘Sujitf of ycut fciuw t]ia1 ] hvas verj' n-cr- change her collar for the Sabbiith isf my un- tPliiladelplWa: Jewish Puhlhr^tign vouij ^hniit ttYiiight bcc^ui^e ] thought our cle’s bar MitKViih, only a shOiTt time before Sotkjty, 1»7|. fatiiLty had no heirlooms. In the eruU J she-nnd he^ cldldren were shot. To mei her CiiurltJJf t;f Tiirjnn-ih could hat'e broujtht so niudi. L tuuEtl lulv^ collar represents dignity and the u'Jll and

I’l l MV. I mm Jiwi'fTj: sunp table songs 1 hat uur family has^ lujefi. courage she mustered to celebrate, hvery eolkeliiig. fur gtriffittiO^iS- I ^ollIlI have time 1 glance at the photo,, it is a s[Mirl;lii1g lold you lOtHiiui ourcakriijar, bo fulLorhctli- lesson of hou" we uted to StSi>^l proud.

Jay$ and ^;|;>gdal oreasin-nstand about hotv "Mostly, Itiougb, [ made this for niy

§ood and strong. our family is. moilier. She misses them all so much—her

"Someday maybeour family vill be able vrliok family—and wants something to be

1o remember happy things, funny ^hi^!lg^ tl^at liapj^aned kh that she can touch and bold."

rg',ichLng before 1 he war. Someday, when i1 domi't hurt so much ^Vhen 1 hold up iheliKetrumglenlieCrtnvdWnas

Ollier, to lenlemtH-r-T tor handkeochiefs. .\lon] irnd Dljw.1 lleld light 10 WCh

'[lien ] njH'jiixl the tiat box lined with tissue paper. i tied it itround iiiy neck.

"Ihls is vrliat [ Finally chose. I m^ide this laee CpHar to “This Ishiiai.' my grandmother wore it on that last fiab- inaleh the one my griind mother ii-ion: in The Iwl and only hath of her life — ire know that from the photo snapped photo viv have of her. In the pllOlo Jt is dcfliailt 1o see. hut moments before her son's Bar Mitzu'ahjn a ilrninge syna-

L ihiiik it miist ll:.u^ iiKiked j^tmeihing like this. gogue, miles aivay frtini herlioniO."

"Yoit imi.sl be Ihinklng lliat ] have not really fulhLIed i touch tite SkMrf urouild my neck. "When F wear this, grandmolher's—strengih and dignity I he .issigiunenl. After alk you eadt just manuf-netuie an I feel Mutti'i— my lieirloom on the spoL^ atthough heirlooms have to Shirt .i|id courage. I guess il works like an heirloomr ^ somewheie. ihey haaTC to be hiintk'd down.

Mia's Lact* Collar in Crochet

K A V y: S i i r o N

hat can be dojie is-heji an heirloom is regui red for ally hnisv eomt^lfltd It and soft enough that it could warm

tl‘P l‘W^1 ^ ^btnby mi-'inber leho would be honoieti to Wa school -vdde l leritagc 1-aLr but none has sun-ii ed "'i-'sir it. [ he color that Malabrigo larn calls tlam-ask is a lerrLbk war? I hat is Mia's immediate (Ltitiildiiry fjimong many other piofound challenges) ill my book CJ/Nenies. XI A 1 r. i! t A ]. s Hookf, anti itefrfoomt (see the preceding escerpi). Mia m)fl = Malabri9 a t^ce. 1 OCrtfr baby merino wool yarn, 470 y atds (4 ?9.S carefully iiispeels Ihe Ojily surviving photograph of her ounce (49.fi g) hanC ^ hank o1 til JD Daraaik; www.malaljrigQyam .com minher's family and concludes that a laee collar is tucked Crochet hook, size- E f3.50 mm) or size »>ccdcd to ublain cjiiuye inli> the suit of the woman who ireuld have been her

FinisliKJ Size: inches wide {I I I.S cm) across the widest pjti; 1.S inctwi grandmother. She decides to learn to crochet and to re- (ia.l cm) long From center oF top edge 10 tl»t tip cd llie Iriingle prcHfucg this collar as best she can. tVill slie master the Gauge: 9 Ch-ipt jod 9 rows .= 4 inches (1 0.2 cm) in SheFI patt craft and finish in time? Can a newly iii«mifaCturCi;l lex- tile qualify as an heirloom? Most wuiri&omg ufaU, will her l«e below and page 62 f or AfcbnevlalK^ns and TcchnFques mother, who suffers the kiss other dear family w acute- SPECiiM sninixs ly, feel renewed pain? Shell; (J ir, ch 1. 2 tr) In ch-1 sp. is a fsetinn in the book, sini- Here is the collar lhal Dc Shell: (2 dc. ch 1. 2 dc) irr ch-l sp. pk euougll. ihmigh ihat Iwelve-y'ear-old Mia could acLu-

jj. M av n u s r I r l'ir. 4 :i.W'OHK 1

(.if rL‘ilh' [ diish' njSL^— i ii im' tjnm rJLird;1cfi ;wd gnnJmoLhcr, Rosa, vHiom I ni'wr nn:L. L'VLTili in her ndviil or^ceiHocAi ( ^ s T E u t: T c (> s; s pnifHfifJoomF (Phlliddphia: Jcviiih TIU‘ worl; lufgins firmer

PtibThLniHl SCi^ieiy, bjKit iicick, [jjcroasos atv "ii'cifktHl on fli- SOTTli, 54[iHTi'S tlvif of tht" ccnccr back point. ~[hc crodjrtrdLTTC’ tiidng|lL''^QlLM' wll Lv ‘.lidl &1i1cK, is'hidi tbrnis, ttioJncrL'ascF, is

[lri'l>£i1kiadcli[iori F\’’L'vrkcLl in ticiilc stitchm thnougji ]loi\'-3, loyftjrtwti then chaiig.c5 to doublo-irrochtn stitches, hririDom <:all{v;tiDn. beginning 'ivLth Roiv 5 (o ihc end. ^YiiVuiijt^ri Iffjji!

Qvii. f.A'i’An' Awl; iiirr\|' i^iL- rjiiv:LiilJ Moil-' i\ lie^al back neck.ch 7, 2 1r in 7th AriiAniiii/CrtiMT];

JjV.'rAuk’/^ f ch from hook (tx-^ch (:otiiit^ IiTkCIi

1 i]iTon^]oot),. Cch If 2 ir in -snnie t;]i)

y Ltme-i. (:li [, Ir* iii SiirtK 1i.ir'n--.!j

(h-i sjjs,

NoiC: rrOJil oo'i' on. the last diain-

OiK Sj^i^'Ce io bti ^vofkfid is the space

lormed hy the turnLii^ diiain of the pre-

vious rou'.

ftoh' 2-. tll^ 7i 2 If in Isl ch- 1 spi ch Li

[shell in next ch-L s^F-ch Lf 2 tr in

iiesl ch-] space, ch ] ] 2 limesF 1r in

6th ch of tch, turn—t ch - 1 sps.

Kch' J; Ch 7, [2 1r in next ch-1 sp. oli 1]

3 limeSn [slid I in nest did spF ch 1]

- 2 limes, [2 ir ill next ch 1 sp. di Ij 3

limesF ir i" '^th ch of tch, tuni — 1

ch-1 sps, Pkot loop edging,

Rdk-- Ir in nest di-1 sp. di -t times., shell in flflie (: toward bollom point of collai, ch I sc in .(r Cli 7, [2 3 [ Working ,

ne^l ch-1 sp, ch 1,2 tr in nest ch-1 sp, ch L, shell in 1st St, 'ch 5, sk 4 sts, sc in next sti lep from ’ around

nest ch-t sp, ch 1, [2 tr in next ch - 1 sp, ch L] -1 limes, point to oppoiile upper comer forming Ips along boL*

tr In (ilh ch of tch, turn— Id ch- 1 sps. tom edges of I he collar. Do nnl turn.

5.' in;-, fioii' CJi 7 f |2 tr in next ch-1 sp, ch 1 1 C times, ]dc shell Hdiv 2: Lk'g across top erlge of collar, di 1, (3 di 3 f

in nest ch-i sp, ch 1 f 2 tlmesj [2 tr in nest ch-1 spv ch St inlo 3rd di from hook, 3 4C) in 4uk edge of each

1] 6 times, tr in t3th ch of Lch, lum— 17 ch-1 sps. Ir across and in each ch-3 sp around rerll edge-iof

' Hcne d: Cli 7^ '2 Ir in nexi cli-1 sp, ch 1 rep from to 1 collar to ivxirk a pifot in eadi Ip, si si in 1st s< toioin.

ch^l sp hefore the cenlerdi' L sp, dc shell in nexI did ['aslen oil.

4p, ch [, 2 dc In eeiiler di- L Sp. ell I, de shell in nest n>oishiiig

Cent])' u'et block on a towel, straightening all plcots. db I sp.eh i, rtp ftbiii tb acrtissjf in fith t;h of lch.

lurn— 20cb-l sps, Allo^c to dry thoroughLy. "2 " Ch 7, ir in next ch-l sp. ch I ; rijp fmiii lo ,-\6SCnCT 'rili; f\UTHOH PI; sic nth. ra}V SifKfi /w •tMfiHi--

1 -lEc, 1 ch- sp before cejiter 2 |dc shell Jn nevt ch- sp, ch ti'iirSii'J" ,r ijnvi rf\,it fciirJirjij,

' ' j rjj KTJ'J ifL>.ij. ,r/jif iVj'ro'fJir^r fiillrjrjJ Ji'fftfrfifs _/,ir ridfriy. I tr (jth tch, dirJ iiTjffr;f iht ] 2 times, lep from to across, In ch of

uSJjr rj^iTi fiidj.' Jhu jTy'iij-Tnll fviifLX'W /it Avt JiftrJry-rnli turn—21 ch- 1 sps. ifnHf.'ir re w rcriM-w »Mf' -auu)' *.( jAvj' Jn Rep Rowi 6 and 7 unlit there are a tolal of 33 rows rTii’/iy L/fiViiaiVjfi'.X’ o't'iJir.iipiit', Jr.xfJiw, iiirJ 7 ?ic ow/wf fiihifri Jht

from beg or piece Is desired size. l?o not cut yam. /ininVlr m-ir^i'n- iivf. Li si Schuhmann's Lace Tablecloth

!: I. Ij L L L N II T ] I S H I T A U K

|[E U'lFEOr MV GRANDMOTHER'S COLJSLR Lisl 34.MlLlh]»ariil {19 12-20I}9), tip from Elorltla to

t;dt:li:aLe her ninetieth birthday with hert-'xteniii.'d fiimily in Neie York, hiippHy at tht: ssunnirn' lace T tctblecloth on m)' dining-nfjum lallf. L^ivisllly'ffjnbellishcd with cut^rark, embroidery, and neodle law, the Ellen R-ethschild-

T^ubt'i ti«iir

lace biethnh

that the wife of her grancJmgrher'&

cousin, Lisl Sdvuhmann, txou^iit with her to New York

when -she

^[^i^u[ly in 192lCu1w6rk, tuAbrA^eiy,

aefrdlelaoe.

Ootton,. About

ij-fflei K JfTet

l4mK 1 fn|.

fw t*Y1. lublcclutli haJ in Ikt rainily cuulJ rcmL'ixibL'r, and die uf[t;n haJ deserlbcd fur mi' iKe tiirj'e

parties that her parents. isscJ tn gi'\c in their home in Hambttrg, Ccrmany, and the grand table ^^ith this tabledolh

ui] it. KnowLnijj that I love family heirloomsH imd liaihng no chlLdren or yranddiildren of her own^ Llsl had given

ihe lablcdoth to me a few i.'cars carlLer.

Lif.l'Schuhmarvfi vjilh hDff fnthc-i iaMJiaiLiur^ tierm^riy, iPhatcigraphcf

unknown.

avititiy

tiu iJiirL^i'.

[.isL's father u'jsa miLliner., ami !;be rcnicmbeTed freeing

the stirelF littered with I lie smashed equipment and many

hali from his factory following KristaLlnaehl (the Night of

ESrokfPt Gliiss, Koveiuber ^-Id, iii ^diieh tlae Naais

wreaked de-si aceLiem im |le^\“ish p^l^^'^SIty ilirtnifibunt Ger-

many ami parts of Austria). FTer hrolher. E'rtd Wolf, liad

heen sent to [.ondon shortly before Krislallnaehti sho.rt-

ly after, l.isl was sent lo New York. Their piarents never met and married l-’redeL Sdnjhmann. my grandmolher's

mode it out of GcrniHiny niiid ivere killed in I he concen- cousin, in 19 'lfl.

IrjitlLni Camps.. [.isl luved her family and wanted the important "piec-

Arriving hi N'fiv- York with the family cahleflHjlb bin es” in her life lu .stay in ihe family to be used ami enJoyeiJ.

wLtli very I i tele money, l.isl stayed with some famdy aU' TEirOugh her lace tiibk-elolh. I.isl's piiemriry llvi** on In

quaintances and cousins. While working as a iiaimy for OUr-fiShlily.

the little daughter of eomedian Mil Lon llerlen she noticed .JlRCHJT the AUTIIOS:. lilUi/ Hcv^;yfflrTl^Tjll^|^ fS2irju< yfivi that a van arrived regularly to pick up dirty laundry. <^rr>diry in t)ir iirlr t ,'L^4 t Jhiit.ii^; iti Al™' tiirk jJiirrlrj-

lAMrnirig ihiiL il was j iliaper service, Usl olfered Hj ^vasli Nt-J fot ffmtf yciiJ-.^ she innf frfi hwfr.in\i uiiu' iiuvi nisi

tiae diupvrs liersdf for lew than the service u-a% changing. riirjjr^»{ rJi.u jvjlU'j'i/c' iliSTJir^jr /v.rjujuic, JiwJk^mvdi^ri.wiul'jiii.?, aii.J irrii;iircr,iir4vir Sfrj'i'rrj fu r^irvjj^ilurrj irinf A few years afteir she arrived in N^w York, l.jsl ui^ci li^i- ^il^.rjir^.jrJiL .'ihJic Jnvs ni 1 1 T'ir.'Jlii'fri'r C'l'ii-juji .Vra'tEyJL'. dih-l iTHJn.»yr

bnjtlier 'rs-ere reunited when became ItvNew York. Sh^ liiJiuifrtTj'r/f iT/ui jfifWiCuic fJiiir inV/i /wr JrjvjjrvHTj rlirJifrcrj.

a- P 1 1 Li WlJ 1. 1; rn ei ii'(hni:>i..iu..iKi3<: .ensi 2 All Orenburg Warm Shawl

!o Knit

. II i; (| A [. I N A A K M in. V A

ur i Russian of mlddlL* tilt most COWtJfd luxury gift would he an Orcnburjjwarm shawl,

Fofteti referred In iu Russia as a "Russian miuk Ihc uuLciiLe thermal properties of Offilburg doss'n not only keep it* hrearer warjll atlJ COSV during harsh inter weather but niaj.', some believe, have distinct therapeutic value as svell.

LEFT; Tlw WDindrl erii Ihe righc is- wearing ai* ^VfJitura w^«m ?hn Dimwa Ruiiii. 30 1 .

.VtfJfjJ.i lAnii'M^r iirijr rkr jLhr^i

HHjHl:T?ietKO*ri Orenburg vv^rm-shawIGoJliniaA.ltlirTHilEvd pifirhdsed far tier mocher In i9tj'i,Tblsl>rt-i'rnec*ie'€jtl-iur marhEr^ piried possessions. WHpypgricirijrwmc^nKi yciu itimiitrMjOnenburij wirm iHaiArf. Qal^tia fi. Khmeleva chose lus(uriousc«hnier€ yam Porihis

prnjiK I; .s filting chaicc far wlut wiM -surety hccorrK; n fnmily heinlo^sm,

J^iii^T.ijin Ay jiv dvj.

r..l 2f- I' I I S'L'MHK. ri' c:i YurHj.jui.Ai'rM i t'M SardcjlihCied^

For mosl ofhiT ]i&.% mj'motKtT, OliillE'iittij tCSimeteva,

cLiLm^; just a ftiL- rytalc for peasant wotnenr

ShL‘ pridLil hiTSdf ou l^fing a city yirl whOM rce|,>l ion cif etc- E and lianlc couture didn't in- dude heavy Orenburj; sIi^ivIsk luid she never missed an opporumSty to criiicize the owjier of one. Only inudi

Llier did E come to realize that jVtothers

seas born of Himple cmy.

Clji a viiiit io Urentiur|< i]i [ look a risk and purelm^vtl a lovaly warm sItawJ as a j'Lft for ]n>' inOdUT. FSack home in lit. I’dersbur^, i presented i1 to liar and w'as stuntied bj'lier Lnslan- tancoufi reaction: fihe stonnetl inlo iKThai.IrtJi'Hii and slammed the door.

Si he emerf;.ed a iiaJfllOur liiler with the unmislak- abla red aiiifuLLy obvious Lbat her eatli- er a|.ipareiit disdain for wann sliawl;; had heart pure brava- do. In reality, site was ^leepLy tOrtClied by my thoughtfulness.

I hope tlial y^Ju will anjny kniltiii;g your own ivarin shawl, whoever will he the recipient. It is a Eabor of Love thnil took ma abrtui 230 hours to complete. In I he border. | used Ihree basic

nc'U be 60 ^Ei

May,' TIM P i hC t. VV URk V> I K 0ofder [Jccre^w

Orfi]bLir(jd(;]]n;rH!;: clLaj’uruili in Etussian)i peas and honcy-

cujub (joi'frj). In iKl^ second segment in [he conricctinn bcls\'ecn the border and

the body of the sha^dl I used dLagonals and peas. On the center seen Lon of the

body, I used dLignnals with a single pea element Ln the center.

1 I ^:^Tl^U :TlllSS

jVnies: All four borders arc t^vo- segment borders. The first

segment is worked as a straight piece. The second segnai^nt j^ick'Cd

up perpendicular along the first segment. !sttp ihe first stilch of e^cb

row (unless binding off) purl wise with yarn in from, Join all four

lx>rders together witli right side feeing you so 1 hat all leelli 'vill face in the same direction. Shahd

Border Section I (make 4),

U-sing the Long-Tall metho^l and 2 needles held tog. CO

5 s1s. Remove 1 neesik. Work Rows i- 1 12 of Dorder In-

crease Chart— ^i] sts. '\\'ork Rtnvs L-ibofliontlerSec-*

tion I Chan II cinicsjxsrolhOn.D6Mat[i Border sts,

work Rows ] -36 of chart 1 1 limes, on 5-3 Teeth

Sis, nxuk Rc.iws L-IU of chart 37 times then tvork

Rows 1 li-36. V\Wk Rows 1-113 eif Lki-rder De-

crease Charted sLs renii 62 total teeth on RS

of bo'rder. ISO all rem sts.

ISorders I —I fieclion 2,

VVilh KS facing, pick up and k I si in

each si st along the straight edge of I he

border— 207 sts.

Sci-itp Hoh' ftfLSjj Si ] pwise

^^'yt’i k to end. Work Rows l-2fl of Bor

der Sect ion 2 Chari — 17S! sts rem. Place all sts on waste ^ yarn or leave on spare

needle. Rep for .? oth-

er l>orders.

|oln right bor--

der and lefi bor-

der w'hh LH'iCIOiH

lH>rder.

6 Sd?c'cf 1 a 7 sW Cfjtirts FMiEy ij]! pJifJtiKopiiiiifar me.

Ij I'll CE^^' oft H I ECl M K M..S ,i i.t H h. eo .'I &cf dpr Sectian 1

M A fJ I! I A I $

fielria-Fine AuHraliin Csshm^r^, 10Q% Ci-Shfntre The charts fcrlhls project arc available in PDF lormac yjrn, IflCcwciyhl, 1,CHJD yards (SH.4 m)i/1 00 al picccworkm^azin^,i(;{»iiirt.fCli^rtS'llltfStra1taos ^fam (3.S Qj) cone, 1 cones of Cray; w^vw.sk^F ka.com S PF l: I A I. T Hi; H ^|(3 u ES Addi Turbo Iscc Mecdici, ^ circular i2 inches fljtjsjian Bind'dff: ’P2log and si new st to left-hand . ^ize (3.0 or size needed to , 3 < mm) needle; rep From * lo end. obtain gauge; www.skacelknilling.com; Russian GraFling JvEcthpd; 51 lit it on left-hand nee- 2 double poinlcdj jiie 2H fJ-O for border dle to right-hand needte, pass 2nd st on right- sKlkjnSf o[LiiiOJial hand needle over 1st st and drop olf needle, “^il Tapestry needle Isl Jt on right-hand nc+dl^ to left-hand needle, Crochet hook inseri tip of right-hand needle through 1st st Safely pins pwlse and then through 2 ikI st kwrse, drawing Waslf' or extra citcufar needles for stitch holders the 2nd st through 1st then drop 1st st O^f nee- Wyton cord aavd T-pinsor blocking wires dfe, si lit it on left-liand needle to right-hand

needle, infert tip d left-hand needle through 1 st finished size: About Inches (IS2 cm) wide and pwise and through 2nd st kwsse, drawing 2nd st fX} inches (152 cm) lall through 1st st then drop 1 st it

See belowandl pogc 62 fex Abbtc^wiktns .Vd Te4

sUfrlS'Kr ;:nii PlECrSVDlK SI 'HVith s^'paraCe m.^xUL'-s and RS pick up && rIe nexl St from right-hand needle lo left-hand needle, kltag

lota] (5L B[i aJong Section 1 and 15 alR along iicclLon 2) loosely and place resulting st on left-hand needle, si next st

along diagonal edge^ oC each border. CTtrafl tog u$ing frotrii nght-h^nd needle to kft-hatid needle and kJlogt rep

Russ-iaii gralting method, begat Seel ton 2 and H-vwking from to end. Tlds will create a more eLwrlcjoln,

loward (he outer tCO and BO) edge of See lion I , Secure Join diagonal sld

last it wi(h safely pin. Tie tog the ennis of the CO aiid BO of /ight and l-eft borders,

and atw log gap that is crea1ei,1. Use same eiuls to secure WLLli Separate needles and RS facing, pick up and k Ob

last grafting si lhal is on ihv safety plo. SIS total (5l Sts ak»j1g Section I and L5 sIS along Section

Body, 2) along diagonal edges ofeach border. Graft sts log using

WoJei To ioLn side stitches Lo body, knit (he last body Hussian grafting method, beg at Section 2 and working

stilcl] togetbei' ivLlh the ne\t side stitch a]id return stitch tou'ainJ the outer (CD and ESO] edge of Seettnu 1. Secure

to left -band needle,, turn. last st with safety pin. I tc log the ends of the CO and 130

I'hcreare L?? sis each on bottoin borders and each ,and sew tog gap (hat is created. Use same cjids to secure

side border. Transfer botlom border sts to cir nttcdlc and last grafting st that is on the safely pin.

each side border sts lo .separate cLr needles. With RS fac- Fin ish i ng

ing, ioin yarn to right edgi; of botlcuii border sts. Wd-rk We-asT in ends using the crochet hook or tapesiry j'lce-

ItoVk's I -.^1 of Bcwly r.hart. iheit rep Hows 1 1-,H ihirleen dle. Use nylon cord and t-pins or alternative blocking

more limes, iheo work Rou'^ 33-^6, joining. hody lo sides wires lo htoek, Tlie shawl dCMts not need to be slretehe^i

with k2log at eiHl of every rowv - ]7!ji' sis rem; all side sls as tightly as a goi^sanier shawf during Lilockicig. melhod.

joLiierl (0 body,

blioui TUfi. l]ES^ C;^^^;R. C.lJfJl.a .d n^itfoTcjM iif J^rr UWfJS. |uin lo-p border witli Live sl-s froin buciy. CelntiMfiv if fJlr eiinrr tif J3vsi'\;hs airJ d ^‘nrj^iviijr nnrJnVAiir^y Transfer 179 tup bonder sts lo ncu'cirtteedle. kach nee- MLiiri; Wiisrl; . .S7jr Jut rtiwi ii/i' ^aii jif f^fl'irJ'i^^ ^urr;ui.rJL:rjiy

dle now has L 79 sts. With US facing,. graft sis togas foil; 'iil ill ijCiY. kijrJftTf Ji'rirt- t'lfii Jifr rjvf^fii-r iii iiwii'.rJliLifilv.fiirri.

fflr Section 2 ¥ y X ¥ 17 1

y y O y o y * y a y 0 y Cj y e> y o y o y o ¥ 25

V I y y y o o y o y o y y o y y o y o y o y o 25 V y y y o y o lO y o y Q y d y 0 y o y lO ¥ 21 V y y y o y O y y o y o y o 19 ¥ y o y 0 y o y y y y o y Q o y o y D y 0 y o V 17 V / y ¥ 15 y- o y o y o y o y o y d y d y o y y y' y o y o y o y o o .f' Q / o ¥ 15 V y ¥ 11 V D y y o y y o y y y o c y 0 y 0 y o y o y D y o y o- ¥ 9 V y T ,/ / o o y Q y Q y J Q y Q y d y d y d ¥ V J' y o y * O y 0 y 0 y 0 y o y O y 0 y c y C y o y c ¥ B V y > > 0 0 y 0 y e> y o > o y D y o y y a / o o / o y D y y o / / Q y ¥ V 1 / o o o y Q y Q y y C5 y o y 0 y 0 y £ y o y 2LJ o y o y Cl y 0 y d y c y c y c y c

8-H PSiP

.*1 ? 1 1 Cl W-U K K I'] KC t. vro K K M AC I » r. .C Ll>l iion R&snd WS

B yn

V2id9

0 il 1 pwlsewyf 0 BO

vwth n^jd return to leFt nMdIe 0 1t laic bcd'y it t03 next yde- it

pnttciC'P

t"l

1^^ ^5 td

It' 42

41 bi t"l 39 ll J7 I*' o |i^ o y 0 y t"! r / o > y 0 o y o 35 id / y y 33 It" y O O 0 * J y\ y o o y y o o / Jl id

It' o a y o o 29 1.1 / y / 27 It" O —

y o 0 £' o o y 25 o y D y t. [t; y 0 Q o o y o 23 t",

./ [t" D 0 c y a 2^ ±J F a y y o y 0 19

y y o y y o ]? It" o o — V

1 It' D o 0 y y o 15 il 0 13 It" 0 £ o o £ Q y Q 0 y y / It- o O o o o 11

9 t"

It' 7

t; t"

It" 5 t",

|t" i V Ll •'; L _L _ 1

Ust rep

^t AVjIiJM. Ill I J PctiltVi'-iJKti Spinsters, Free Maids, Tells, Shakespeare

1 1 r s ft C R T o IMI r John K r o o Ei t ej i i. ]. i r s.

HAKESPliAkL'S TWHLiTH Nf(}HT Is A ofiwapptd LdcnlLtics first l>crformi'd in 1^02 but sel in antictit

Illyria (an area ofraaltrn Eiurops com prliiny parts of modern-day Albaninl. Croatia^and Monltnegro). in A<1

|[, Scene -4, tJrsino, S [>ulte of [Myritip describes a song sung to lilm tlie previous evening:

Tbc spinatm am1 knitters in the sun Needlepin, ncedlepin, .stilch upon Stiich,

And frtK: maids tlaat crease their thread vvilh bonts Work the old lady out of the ditch.

tl-.:^' it; it is Do to chant a silly snolfi, If she is Jiot out as soon as I,

And dallies ivilh ihe innocence of love. A rap on t he knuckles wilt come by and by,

Like the old age. A horse to CJrry my lady about,

I nntst nol liKik off until twenty are out. Clearly, spinstersi knitters, mnd frt'e maids—and tlicir

chanls— u-ere fajniliar ti> bolh the phyxvright and his au- 'llie “lady” is ihe lace pillow; tltc "llo-rse," the pillow dience. Spinsters referrcHl to arrjTone, man or wojiian, u'ho stand: and a "rap cuj ihe knuckles" was what you goi for spun ^-arn. Frecjnalds iv^crviaslemalLers, ivhcj hh-ete prcilVini’ not keeping ujr

inantly icmalc. Rones rt:ferral either lo bobhijis turned (Stu1

carved froni bwf Shinbojies or to fish bonqs or cipher tmiall One. tWLK.

sharp bon^s hvilh heads fashioned from sealing was that Buckle my shoe;

thciw who could nol afford handmade metal pins at one Tit nee. fotir.

old BriLish penny each used when milking bobbin lace. (A Shill the door;

COilliilon name for bobbin lace wa,s tH.ine: iaeed Five. six.

Tn Ihe commercial product tcm of IflCe, speed was par- E^ick up slicks;

amount. Many tacctnakers w:eic children, some as young Scii'en. eight.

as seven or eight ye.irs old, To hold their atlenticm and Lay them striiighl;

keep ihcm working, designs were formed and pins placed N'ine, ten.

by rote; chants, Of lells, such as the follohving examples, A big fat hell;

helped tocsrahlish a rhytlmu FJes^n, Ivvelve,

AftOVE: Pricking for an Ar.iqcjn-slytG laceccIginCj.Cotliictinnotpi.nns Smilh. RoiftwelP, NDrlhaniplaniUirr.

t^.'r.fripn avfjteTy iftf j^i'Jim

M Pah:N:t;WnKK Pirc F. we> K K M A i; A X.E .VI .e n M Dig flitd iicivt; the light, and so on in order of merit..

TllirtSfn. fiinirtc^ii, Reforc the 1 5S0s;^ bobbin lace came to

Mflkls;i-cnurting- hiigiind primarily from Venice and snbse*

Pil'ufcn, sixtefn. rjuently from FranceHSpaini ind the Spanish

Mjiids in kilchen- Netherlands (Flanders). Queen Catherine

of Aragi>n •( l-ttSS-- iS3(>h first wife of Eien-

\l^i Jij a-witLliilg ry VIII ( N9I-] 5'I7}, niay have introduced

XinL‘lL‘tTii t^hlt'l]^y, bobbin LaCCiiJakiitg to England. Confined at

My pliilt's tmjny. Ampthillhl BedfWflshirfl from 1531 to 1533

while await ihg divorce from Henry, she is

“(Nik up 5ticki“ :jt[)d "Lay lllinll straight" credited with teaching bKal uxnnen the art rural pover- describe the of 1 inf I'ObblriS, “A of bobbin laee to help felkve

big iat hen" Ls ihe lice pillohv. 'Dif v^rse ty. Although there is no proof that Ca.the- rine knesv haw’ to bobbin lacc herself ginning “Kleveni tivdvc » . T is believed to make

tK a &ndal conimenl r-e^rding (lie silaLuS of or that she would have COnSOrled directly

women hut may also be 2 veiled comment with the poorf It is possible that members her retinue svcrc that she on tlie slatOS. of laccttiakers-. ( i'his rhyme of lacemakers and w?)^ai$o hoard in ipsheidi, Massachusetts, instructed them to pass on their skills, Ru'

rvlUTC! litce h>r the markers in Efuston and mors abounded that Catherine burail her

Porlsinouth, Kow Ha mpibi ro. was being own lace while n1 Ampthilk creating the op-

produced in the lalo eighteenth century.) jtortunity for the nehvly initiated lacemakers

"Jack [ie Nimble" ,i|.m> has^ a laccmakirag li> make replacements.

contieclLon. Cindle leaping Memined from English lacemaking history through (he

a game ofjumping ueor flMi part of the old sixteenth and seveniccjith centuries is well

pagan traditions dti ring May Daycelohra- docunieilted. Throughout Eranceand the

tions. The dangers wcr- self-evident, and Lewv Countries, religious ccmflicl regular- the game- cvcratimlly wyis bannedr In W^n- ly erupted betu'cen Hirguenot l^mlestants dover, Huckingham shire, where there wero a.nd Cacholks. Waves of Protestant refugc^es

many lacemaking schools,, it was Customary to dunco iled, many crossing the English Channel 10 lhe ports of around the laccmakers’ candlestick at Candlemas- the [Joveti Deal, and Sand^vich^ tvhere Ihvy spread out to scl- j'raclice led to jumping over the cajidleslicL w-itbemt dfviis- lle in E.ondon and other areas. Many laeemakers frojn

iilg thv Oame, the goal being to ensure guoel luCk for the [landers and northern 1-Tancc evenUially selded in the

Midlands, possibly attracted a local supply of lla^ war, N0I so ea_sj' whe-ii wearing long skirts and pinafoiesE East by

In tho evening.^ in most lacemaking cummunitieSi, as a-nd/or:ui already established lacemaking LradllEOii.

many as.eighl'MJl girls -u-orked by the light of a single Cal- h-y the end of the .sixteenth ccnUtryj laceiia^iking iii-

low Candle, lit the middle of the room stood a candle stOOl VNjlved Ihouiiinds of workers and formed a major Coni- or pule-LHiard. The ^Tole-board had four or sis holes in a pouejlt of the English economy. It is easy to understninsl circle arouild otie in thfl cenler; in the center hole was that the lure ofextri iiKOme end massive demand fii- a long stick with a iCKk-et for 1 lie candle. The other holes eled a tkilrt! to increase output. "Schools’^ gretv up in the

held bulbous bottles made of^-vry thin glass. When these Lcjwns, s tllagei, arid bamkks, ostensibly for the impnwe-

bottles were filled with water, titey magnified the light of nient of poor children bul primarily fc^r the teaching of

the cindle. The most tkilletl tacemaker^i got to sit Jicarest lacemaking skills.

price snd length indiei-bid. Celleaioa 6f Diaea 5rrwth. TOr: L W -fillirig in (hi? Arjgnn by MiS. Pudkley, itiowlnf] thf label with tbe RcIhw-ffIL NarlhiiilptDi'iShire.

Borrow.; Lace w*iSitd in a variation of (he Aragon s-lyk?. M.jVer unknawitCdfectidn ofDiaru Sri^itlxRoth^ell, Norchamptonshlre.

W.iiiyfipTis r,'-irtiindy iffJir .Jiir.lwf. ,

Hcirly Ejiglish Lace

O nc of the- cirlkst rccQ^di of EngJisli'iriiaLiu lace i$ in a Ictlv from rlisatwth Tsluim of Lamport Hal], NorthaniplQJisJilTi:, written to her failiec ihcHit I63fl- Attached (o the letter are fiveim-atl umpLcs. of iaco with their

Individual pcicei penned ^ik)ntjjsiJv. from 4 to 10 old pence {2H to 6ccnl4j pet yard {Ol^ m}.

-C J- B. It

The iMir r that Eliza tietli Ijham wigte lo her father with Ueo umptes. and Cheit ptk.ei Mlhxed'. Circa, 1AJD. CnIFecElqn Ehq Lamport Mplt Pr^icrval^

Thji4l, NorthimptotKhIre', EngtaiuL

JiCrpT^n'fd ira|Fi |L'>||4 jCTiiii'jiwn JhtftirTC ry^Jjinipivf ifjif ftusmufwrr Tmif

.Vrvr^rtijirLiriiJjire, jiiiT die tlOv^iiy ItirC: ,trii^inTi, Lrrir^,

Working fOEidiliona were hrutal. Wnimtin ilfut ycmn^ tir y lisvs re-slricted the xveariny of lace to the nobility and

ctiildncn wi^rkod long hour^ for a ]>j4tttiKi$, it> e1TO$I Uit- the very rich, it is possible that he never wore lacc him-

pLeasanl oondiUnnit, tev aati^ify tho JiuatJnhld iipm.ancE of self N'onetlieless, Shakespeare certainly teas familiar ivLth

the rich for this tusLiry. IX^mand fueled the inclttittry, apd lltcemakiiig^ let nSlet liini ha^'e tlie last iHiord: "'Lbe fash-

industry fulfilled the deinii'ind. ion ivearS out more apparel than tlie Jiianf +

Handed doHvn from mother to dauglHer oevr thf yc^srs,

tnttny bobbin -lacc pMttcrn^ hi%'e survitined for more ihi^il

t-Lih I II I s Ilf .xUMi. three cicEituriesL One,, thetkithcrinc of Aragi'in. wiLS 4i dtslgili

lSjr:L‘:c, Liz. Liw 1 Vttdj.^?, I^JI. 2 vd. , nV. 1 Ji that in likelihood was flourish inga4f»hoke^;pe.iJiQ miulcllls d Su , Entdiiild: ;\rima..2(Kiei.. wuy to London. Lace historian Diana Simith of Northamp- Chai'nlL-r, CztllLrlilL-. Ziid k'1. £. K'.rliLrl’^. i^n- .Wiiknr^ nr ttr^

tonshire, E:ngjand] has in example of a pricking for the JtrjfT lEriit A’l j/rnr. kcprlul., C’llarlcvlLnri.fM.mth

etl};i njf style and i sample ofthe filling that eame wLl h privi''- ("Inciiliiij.: N.ilui l^re«,2.(Ml'l.

trok-,.'\lnn S. Hiywf lvj jVLiftkitr.iij;J(iir, JtiA^Jbi,.iiir.J J.nv .tfirA'iWfl. eriiinee. induding the makers name and IcKation.

LlhiJoiI: Eyce &. ti]s>Lh^'iMHKlir, CN.>I . (.Jut nE']'rinE. Tliere are no proven likenesses of Shakespeare created PjlIiiiL'r. Mrs. IStiry. f/^srevj,' lyijIiT. IflOS. kcpririE..\-1icieHnln. New

during his lifetime. 1 ie was a commoner, and as sumptu- Yiirl;:l>rYVi.T.JtH2-

All Endowing Purse /o Make

C H K F S r O P M F R | O II M M R O O K F I' II I I I I I- s

n England, from the Renaissance to the late sext^nteentli taiiltftl in an eruluwiijg purse. Not only did the cash gi^re

century, a rich bridegroom besloh^icd upon liE bride on lier an elejiieiiC ofiiidepenJent wealth, but it was seen as a

their ureddingday a quantity of gold and ^llx^reoin COii' symbol ofundying Imre and a fruitful marriage. '[he shape

of the well -filled purse left little to the LmaglnatLcm In re-

spect to that symbolism. M .A I I E lA L s

Frtbrk, linr-walc cordurc>yj Tan, embroidered with Light Jhc purse customarily was made (woxren, knitted, or Tan thread, or fabric of choice, W yard {0.2 m) ck W sewn) by a female member of t he gmoin^s familyajid em- yard (0.5 in)' if fabric has a nap (cordutoy or velve- teen) or directional design bellished with a x'ariely of needicxvnrk, incUidlng Edgicifp. Torchon J^icc with hccirt rnotif, or edging of Shaped I i ke a tube or slcreve, it xvas viorn folded in half and choice, Vi inch {1 cm) wide tied at w'aist ox'er a belt, cord, or chain. it wcutld Sewing thread to match fabric the Olten

be concealed beloxv the outer skirt and accessed hy .a slit Finished size: 1 inches 04.3 cm] loncj and in the sklrt^s side seam. I he small opening ij) the purse it- 3% (3.5 cm) wide, excluding ties self prexrented easy access and kept the contents secure.

>'liCf V'ClkK ri r.e r. SKViAeA.z]!^i..e(»si AtradlUoi^l Cfidoi/iing pufK

^ih torchon hobblot^c mdd«1:f [he autho*^

vi1f[>, Polrlcln

Ann Phillips. iy J«r Cpf^

I >! H J TCL't: l ] U WS- hold each remaining tic piece in. lialf lengthwise with

sides otili slLcch along long sides and one end to .V(Wf; Um U-Snch {ft mjnJ scam a]tcl•lvanccs^ unlcssol li- wrong ttihe. e.ach right side out; steam press. ef vrljfl s1a1cd. form a niirrow TufO

PursL- Liy the frenC piece 0U1 right side down. Check the fac- the facing edges not extend be- Cut 2 pufF-cpiKcs l'^ K infh-fS’(35.& k ]C).2 cm) ea-fh. ing for ITiL to ei1SUfe1li^[ do a facing 4 k 4 inchci (iy.2 ]£>,2 cm), and 2 pieces I'i x yond the long edgpsofihe front. Trim if necessarj.; hearing

In that short edges of the facing irill be' held In place ] inches (35.6 k 5.S- cm) for tlicllfls- mind

fixint Oji (Ije iwtt JyirgC rCCt^nglf-i. turn and si itch a W-Lnch by the stitching that closes the side seams. Place the

tl'ie long sides (6- null) I'M^ii'n nn the 4 -Inch (30.2- cm) sides. On tlie and back with riglit sides facing eitd illtch wfOilg side of ont piece (the front), mea-siire 2Vt inclifi (securing the btittonhole faicing); turn right sides out.

(3,7 cm) from one tLircied hem and centcretl side Eu side: Place one tie, CeciteiC'd Side lO sUfo. at each endt the draws straight line 2!4 (5.7 cm) iiictteS ktrig fwio Ihij open end of each tie wiil be enclosed inside the purse point toward the opposite hemmetl side. when the MitiJtS itre sewiii. Stitch short ends closed.

Place the facing, fabric on the frool piece, fighc sides to- Pitt the lilCC or edging of your choice so that its outer gelJier,and slitchanumd cHieoiarktd ILne, 'A inch (ft.1 mm) edge Uet'cn with the edges of the punset gather or fold ihe from line. Cul ijlonj' Eiie marked line lo create a ilit open- lace at ihecornersi scic in place. Remove' pr&Sc ing; "nick" Lite Coiiiers degrees being careful not Lo AHOUTTJIE AUTIIOP. Afcn PFSIC;^TIi. f :A'Ji^A^y^^hT_^^iV^l Cni Lite stitching tli reads. I'um the Facing thrmigh the 1INI4 IVvM lif / jj^'.imJ ^\it fiiTj' NiVJi frif iiTit, riitriirir.f pJir, nfiff" opening lo the wrong side^ essentiall)' creating a large [ Sf},t\ti.A srtimf herirxK>inuTj, Jir rrztxiiti ii'hf UtiVo iiu Mhinw boo lid butlonhok;. steam press. JiiiriWTfJ i)iH-nr.f .yt JjuATiiiif r/^ciittJn) niOrfifJti- re wii}' Jir J'lr liwfc.

M AVi'|os;i. Ji] I J P I te t w 0 K k Torchon Lace io Knit

ujcddnrjtrvrtkjrtii

fn£»n1 Addir W.

Hflfonft ftmcy* wari fiy ffcowre rflprincCMcago: ThDmpvQA^

TTidniiii, t905J

IP l

J<^f tVp.

had just read Christciiphcr PMILips"^ iaistructiO'ns fyr 3d row', si. I k. 2, over twice, p. 2 together, k. 1, narro^^.

I in^kin^ an endowing: purse incnrpnritj.iig haitdmi'ide ovtf, k. 5, Pver, k.3.

3tli t(>ri:hc>[i liie(? when I dlEciDvered i pattern ^or kniti^cl tnr- rcru',il. l,k. i. over twice, p. 2 together, L 3, narrow,

os'er, k. nairow, k. ehon l:lC

7th row, si. I, k. 2. mner twice, p. 2 together, k. 2. narrow', •d* rtpfiilU Clticagu: Thompson ifc I hom-

over, k. ], narrow, over, k. 3. over, narrotv, k. 1, over, k. 3. as, 19QS). Although the (ilk- biMsts that the test Ls ^Ih row. si. I, h. 2, over twice, p. 2 together, k. I, narrow, ‘‘lllaboraCely [JJustrated" anci llitTE'i; jire ^orne -chiinrrinjj over, narrou', k. I, caver, k. 3, over, narrow, k. I, over, L 3. color plates, there uas no iJlustraiion the kilillLHi tor- j Ith roiiV. ?J. i, k., 2, over twiix, p. 2 togeLhvr, k. 2, o^er,

chon I ace. Curious, [ cast -on and u^as pleased ^^'itlt the k. 1 -over, twice, over. k. I. narrow, , narrow narfow. owjr, prcity edging. Lfiul appeared* As no gauge, thready or nce- k. ], narrow, over, k. 3.

dtii sizu Wjis gi^'cn, I uied Handy Hands Llzbeth IQ0% 1 si. I twice, 3 lK row, , L 2, over p. 2 toget her. L 3 , ov'cr,

eotton 1hrL‘^d. si?tf iO, in '6^3 Lem, and sisc I needles. narro^v, k. I, over, narrow, k. ], narrow, ewer, k. I, narrow, N'e.'rl time. Til use sJje f>nrfl[> n.tft‘d[t?S fora finer lace. over, narrow, k. 2. Ihc instructions for knitted Torchon hiXee are below, re- 1 5th row, si. I, k. 2, mvr twice, jx 2 together', k. 3, over,

produced exactly as they appeared Jjt tlie oeLgiitil ("over" namely, k. 1, over, si l,najiow. slip the slipped stitch rn'erihc

efpiflJs yarnovert "narrotv'* equals knit two together]. one li'iSt kuiLLed, then over, k. I, Jiarrow,over, narTciw, L 2.

— ECaren Brock 17th il. ], k. 2, over bvice, p. 2 together, k. 5, over,

narrow, k. 3. narrow, over narcntw, k, 2,

Cast on ]B stitches. Knit hack jdaitt. lyth nwv, si. I, L 2, over twice, p. 2 together k. over,

1st row, sJ. U k. 2, over tscicc, p. 2 togetlier. k. 5, nur- narrosv, L 1, narrow, over, narrohr k. 2.

rosv, over, k. 3, oser, k. 3. 2lil row. il. ], k. 2, oner twice, p. 2 together, L 7, over,

si I iiar/nw, Tlie 2ns1 and alternate ru^^'5are alike: i.e. knit plain un- , di?aw Ihe slipped stitch over the one last knit-

til there are only 5 stitcluri Otl the left needlet then over ted; then. over, narrow, k, 2.

twice, p. 2 together, k. 3. Eiepcat from first row. e Leavers Lace

Aristocrat of Textile Fabrics

Ji F. II tth M F. S U A N I , ]

^OR CFNTUttIFS, LACF HAS REEX also b).' recoyoiKing lacc niatutfactu ring's lhal her life's art syticvn^'mous with dcg.-nnct and l"s- economic ImporLuiiC'e to ii COUlUry. Might not be tost |hc sevenceenth and eighteenth centu- F ill pci^try a.nd arl. A lacc-makcr£ heart D-ubliifi la lit, tfn'mcii o^^c-r a pillow, and ries ushered in the Age of EillighlOttment Was turned to frost ricfdle liXec, ^>a]nstakLj-igly built chr-ead and the Industrial Kevolulion, catalysts

for social in AillCtt'- upon ihnfLid, tltCOriUtd llild upheaval Europe and htcaldiicsL iiiclLviduLtlS £uu1 thCCCCksiastical She makes rare lace lea. DlflcrciiccS’ in economic positions fell

- inal i aiway with the violent revolutions in rmiit I i ncns of llic chiiTitf i . Su mpipairy laws Which is never Sold shifting finan- tutccl ill liuropc in iht fourlcfiHli (hr^nvgli On the marhet-placc and the United Slates-, and

Stv^ntetMilh ccTilurica ompha-ii/td (lit cial systems helped develop a thriving mid- — ^rw.'i It'iijifiyi AtfiriJiuiitirft tiointi: status oflacc byliniMiii^ il^ dle class ivith a strong ccinsumer-oriented /Hwm tt'-ship Id tliosc of liijjhi-T iocial status arul power, l^ce becaclie readily available to this

Froni pUiti^n'ri ef a Wallis and Lon^(fc

Cnrpbi.ilKliil. Wfril GrtfiilWidv Hhod? HlaiK)

Ig' AWv.lfiiruii .rm/fiiiir^ff|.'

llie adytt']]l of machirn.'-- tain improvements in

i114de It all b-L'- machinery for mak-

gan h^Flt]1 $ bcfnin'ikln.g ing bobhirt'itct lace"^ micKinc kmvntod Jn with James Gibbons

]SIJ by lohn Leavers In (dates unknown ) the

fi/eb-ie-is). IS^Cls. Richard Biddle

iwuiie owned a laCemaking

Is sometimes s [.celled factory with Richard

”Lcvers"J tnfegrai- Birlitn (Ifift5-]fi70) iti

ed ideas from a num- Nottingham. In August

ber of earlier in^'entEons IS42, according to 77te

to ovi^rCome the most LJfjfc-'Oocilf o/fternsTrJf-

challengiilg aspect of making lace by machine—changing trfjfe aticf Ef-Vitts Coffnecteii witit Nifltifi^bam

the direction of i single or Jllultijile threads while fcjrni- atii-i hi (Nottingham; John T.

ing a stable base fabric. Le-avers espiide^loil ihebobbLnel i^utton, 1S52], workers protesting working conditions

or neLmakingmachinert' first patented by |olin Keiniliconi and wages attempted ''to oust (he workmen from Messrs.

forflealhcolei 1 7aJ-iaGl] in England in IfiOfi. He-JthcOiirs Piddle and Pirkin’a factory, but h'lr. Sherwin, one of the

- (tevice jifOd^iierl a net ground that ivas then damed or o1 li coLtoty^ magistrates, took steps to prevent it."

erwlse embroidered by hand to produce a lacelLke fabric. Other names instrumental lo tlie developitiepl Of

Heatheoat'fi patent oti this eclfller ni^thine ires so similar Jacemaking machines arevirtnallyunknowj^ today except

to Leavers's device that l.eawrs never fli tempted to pro- through patent records. Among them are Johjt l.eavers's

teet his own invention, fearing that Heathcoat unuld two brothers, Joseph and Ihomas (dates unknown}: Hoo-

euse Ilian oflrLdusirLal theft. ton DeverilS ( [7.S3-1 B6B); T. Alcock (i807?-l9C2)E and

I.ea^nsrs's machine, used for milking plain net^ ivas fur- William Henry Nunn (IT^.I/^-^- ll^7^b), ther rehned in 3fl23hy]oh]i Bertie (17^6- unknown) of Jhc Leavers lace machine established machine-made

Basford, Nottinghamshire, and Ricbord Biddle (duCeii lace as a fashionable and afTordablc textile fhr dresses and

unknown) of Nottingham, who developed a metlmd for aC-CCSSories. LeavLTS, I Eeathcoat, Bertie, and others cre-

produeittg fancy lave upon a net ground. 'I his machine ated a matuifacturing center in S'oltingham that ivould

is essentially the saiMC a-S the one used today to make eventually reach across tlie Atlailllc to influence textile

Leavers lace. production in Rltode Tsiand. Cmmecticnt. and els^wltere

Although the lace retains Ijeavers's Jiamc, other lli'ti'ett- ill America.

tors, most orihein English, made numeraus modi Hcatinns I.eavers lace must closely imitates handmade bobbin

to the bohbinet rnuchitte, reflecting its eonrplcxlty. The lace-, wliicit is foade by inactipubting pairs of thread over

years between 17a0 ajid iJiiJli wi^re rich in inventions re- a pattern. By the middle cd'ihe nlneteerdlk ccniury, ma-

lating to the te.'ctile industri,'. Tliu F.tiglisli gCrtxTntneiU rou- chines could produce a variety of lace pttt terns In imita-

tinely issueci patents on these devices, to l>c or tion ofpopular bobbin l,i.ceR sucli as Valenciennes, Cluny,

Lgiioced, sicfcjided or not, by the patent holders. Volume and HonUoil. 'Illese early inacliine-rnade laces closely rc-

Kill, May to Augu-St of 7Jje A-feJrepD/ffrjn .'VJtT^cTzi'jjL’ sembte those made by lniild, id tliougit ttmie character-

lists three dilferejit [.laEcnts for “imj'riKvefnents in tace-ni,i- istics help to distinguisli lltcju. l.eavers lace has a Strtmg

chinery" during the month of March alone. Tiigzag movement in the solid areas of the lace pattern

I John leatbcoal established a factory in Farts in L8 1 b where llte tit reads pass between several warps. Fine-

because of ]>alem issues. Jolin Bertie con tinned to re- quality ipachiiie'ina<,le laces, those more commonly

Frcntipfatfarmof .ntvalCis and Lonqdon Lfivefi lacemAchintf. Ciie,i l^dC.Catlrptian of the Leavers ttceCorporarlon. Vilest Gftwwichc Rtk^i± Island.

T'j- ,1 piiJT (‘nnKif ofi^K Ccjtxrj (ju Ci^jkx.ifa>ir.

FIEC|ivti*({ tr r e hii,'osE m k i s r .e li m .

inut^U lieftHfc World S'/Lth France. The low'-

War II er cost of tnipOi’iirig

|j:ii^-'C a n^rrovk' zig,- French lace could lead of zaj or V-shnipL'd |Jflt- to uneiupLoymeni

K-nt. A iL‘Li>nd fL'atiiri: American lace workers,,

e incxsj. of whmn Iwed and of m-n ell i n - ;'id ij

Is eIil" |>ri:Rcncc of worked in Rhode Isbrid. parallel line!$ (^umSClL iTiC Span id V Ameri- hy tlie tVk'istin^ action can War ( 1 399) deptoyc^tl Amiiriean soldiers in of the iviiriJS, ;i f^aliiri; AclonLlc [lot Rt::i::n in h^iidmaJc both the and Fn- cific Oceans. Ilie victo- lace, ill whiicli ilifi nuli- then irr can inanipukte the rious United States threads Ut jiny dirHicllon. Ihcsc parallel lintJS can be ac- annexed the former Spanish toloiiies of Puerto IUcOh the in In- emtuated by the use n't ^vefr yarn that ii lighter in weight and Ouam, resulting the ihiin ihf warp. stallation of troops on tliese islands, all Infested with ma-

Some laces indude an H.n]illoL‘, or cordon net^ to em- laria.-CaiT^ylrig mosquitoes. At this time, theUnUnl States plljiSize cLetnents of the lace design. .As [he manufac- had no means of]in>duclng protective mosquito- nets, .Mil- turing of lace heCaFue more and more mccbianizeJ, Lite chine-made lace manufacturing still was ceittered. In Fng- process of punning an outline thread emBhl Ive done ei- land, hvicli only IDO Leavers machines installed in factories iiiosqulto ther by hand or by rruichlne. In The af Litf.it, ill America, lo allow For the pr-uduCtiCiA of net-

Farnshaw points o-ul that eacli UtriJiid tif a hand- run ting Lo proLt'Cl ,American troops stationed In the IrcNpics. cordonnet has twin;u[R in It, at. the beginning and the eJid a tariff o-n the importation o-f 1aceiiialf.Lng machines was of [he outline, whereas a machine cordon net has Four cuts lifted for seventeen monthsi from August 6> 19Cf9h to Fte- because two-teparatf patterning threads aro needed to go cember 31, 1910. urottnd either side o-f (he design. Rhode Island dominated the machine-made LaCv in-

'[he hritish government closely guamled the secrets of dustry ihroiighcml the UvChtLfth century, “rhlrly-four of lo- English lace manufacturing, preventing lhec\port ofma- Litt: fifty- four mills in (he United Slates In 194H were chinery thnauglioul most of the Jiinctecntli teiituty, Tltoie cated there, with (he other iwemy spread throughout sLs eng^iged in industrial espionage in the United StateSf hov.-. i(aie,-i as far away as Ohio and Pennsylvania. Ftliodc Is- ever, maO^ig'Cd 1o smuggle in equipment, w‘orkefs. and land possessed 4bl of thii 75Q 1. cavers lace machines in patejil Information throughouUhcccniury. [he first fac- (he country. tories iisiiitufiieluring handmade bee had been e.s1abllshed ]hc Puly Sk 1935, Tinif iiiag^zinc named the late Sen- R.heidc Is- in Massachusetts in theeigjiteejuli century Ln Ipsteich. but ator Helstui Wilmarth Aldrich (1S41- 191 5} of lace Industry." Senator Aldrkli it wairi't umil ]?'Cl^ that the manufacLurihg Of machine- land “Xiodfatherof ihc U-3- made lace became estJiblisheJ In America. liad helped write the Tariff Act of !9D9. which catego- the rized lace as tflthcr expensive or Inespensi’ve and which [n Jgne ]M5 h Hugo W. Schloss. president of Amer- ican [.ace Manufactufvrs Assoeiallon, appeared before iilcUided a 70 pereent Import tax on “esiperLslve laces . .

”. or machines."' "['he act . . |^^I'C] Cothrough ii sjiCCial federal tariff conamiltee to assert that the miideon Lever

allosvii'ig Leavers lace machines machinery of (he Iflce manufacturing industry is ;* po- also included a provision tential arm of national defense." Accorsliitg to T ime mag- from England to he ^rn^'Nlr1ed duty-free, enabling Rhode conijiles, expensive aiine (July 9, 1935}. Schloss was hoping to forest all a Island's textile mills lo purchiise (he rtclpcilon lit Importation lees aS pi*r( niifu trade agreement machinery rurccssary for making lace.

tjrrcflwich, llhadp Isidnd. Willis and longdon Le.wen tape rnathiive wiiti lace. Circa 1 9W. Ceakctlan of the Lcavrn Ldce Corpaeaiion, w«t fj^mi Jjct r-ri.’C-SJJiifi ^ .'imv a.iid-[viirlr;y rf thf

Mayi|u^;i. 14tJI P'1 lC L w ,j k V - 1 1 .

tEFT: Tills sampfe of gold Le*w2ri lalx^ m adc in tJnp Intf rlnetfifnih cwiijry. SfidwS [llfr high guiliEy af Ills c jily machinr- m^dc IncfS. Hit

wiirp yoms nj-Ji Fram top to tnoccom. Nois il-rf: diffwsrwc in the weight the warp and woh yarrts, which -coftiMlKitci to ilir lentgre -pf the

fabric, CoIlKliofl of the tTflirt.'eriiivdif RlKjite Island T™tiltCanwr«-i>i. KIngsum. Rtwefe lslarki(Ufll a»3.3 l.7^1iDanDi;ftDhH7rt

P. Biiinbtidge,

CENTElt Warp y,mis runfrorri top lo- bottom irl tiliSUrliiDJi: nrbHjrgundy LiMverjlKO, Th^ Zlgug motion of tilt weft yarns is Cfsarly visible. This iacL-wjimndcatttie Lc^rjLace Corporation inWesi Greenwich, RhadHjNindl ?M3, CollectKSiiof the Lriityefshyo/RnodelsiancJ TejitileGOirSHvaiinn L,ih

IjtOllT: The outline, or COicTtHinrl, Ji care yarrs wrapped with t^etal, WiS originally sewn fiilO m,stliitst;-niade l.ice ty li.Jtidl The l«e rnnchinas

used dlthe Leavers Lace Corporjibn West Greenwich, flhode island, wliicli dne k> the 1 e90s jnd incorporate the highest in leehnologlcal

eifi^nncei. are capable of weavirig in llis cordannrt. Calicetiijn

flhado Island, lUPl 3003.23.D3iL Donof: KOrk RoLtctls, Lc.iuers Lace Gpr[>pratlorv.West -Crefinwicti, Rhode Island.

L'^' -Vrj^kirfr t'. f JrA-wfv- iiiiif irvutlfjy stf jrir [.luVcisirj.' Jr^jii J fr.Li'ik' fiirjrnuJiiw JjiKimliig:

MLni-crtheteiifi, tlvf iiiticJlirieryiviii noi oikjii^il Lcaii lace mil I that is stilt iipernikma!. Owned by Klaubcr

skillfl[l espcrioiicod. iiwkcrs llutd Cln Lk,' bnjuj'tiLjn tiiupcT- ISrotJiers, ] tit .,^Tnd ninililjfod bj- Vork ttoberls, a fourth-

ideaiid maintain il. Tile SfckcnTk l.j£c Com]jany in J^aty- geJieiatitNii h'K'errtiiken it still competes with overseas pro-

iLickcl. Khotitf rsliiild, j'ourukd Ln 1^09, Ls (sno OKampIo cif dttCLkvil TniJ still crontes Lcai'ers lace on machine:! that are

d factory, liikE Cunirtuinityv built on the kitiYwIcdg^ ofiill- iHoFC Cliai] o]]c Jiun J^L^d years old. 4 e

niij;niiil.!i. In Kimic isitinch of Hisiiitk

mx-ritt}’ fiftii Itjxiuslyiiii Ixiies^ aiithorTi G:iry Kulik liiul ]uEla ^ URTII 111 HF AIHM3

IJonhoni slato, “[itho I*lahslucke1 mill 0|HTJ,le|d,] ihirly-JoLir |[irii(h.iw„ E^[. YTif WfJin'JifiiniirJ IVIKL Jrd iLl..'\yk-slHiiy,

linpl.iikL.Shiie, 2 i:hi>0 . lacc iiiaL-hiiioj; LiiijJortc\3 fr^im Uie sxirks of John |andini.\nf Kulik, Cary, iiiit.1 Juliji ]j4;[di3[ii. MJiliJ'i' f.«f,zirJ: .-I ir hitvrrr-T'J’y itf N(JtCing,Jiami, l-tTi^tand. Al] luil live yf clifiK: niachin.i.'i were IfiSti-W lIri};\rM\-n\r^ ximl l>rif\ij/rui} W.^^hllaj^ll:^iJl, lli.f.1,; UJi,

biLill belwoen I'^LO lUlJ lyN. Ln iCsoaHy ticars. the Indus- riej'J.rtiliL-jn trrinleritrT, I'J^tl.flut i^fprlitr.

I'ririi'h.in,!,. AkUlfiiW, JTnJiVjsri I\\tcirh; fKin^ a njjrjffr ufiiJf jfA,w j(ir.irvjr.f li y dijfHhidetl ufKin jjkitkd tn.j'tish ^sTcavors to f^|^e^Jte ihe /ur NJirjrJkTiiir iir tJji- .?rjy, Ji|.fJ|(J.(fi, Tim'S. riWr/.iuJr]; i^Tfcmfjirnr, fit., liLCe iiijchmc^j. ..." Cl.ibcTty E^atvrtss |>uncllJSeJ ftf., J'lrrjv^ rTipyirsr/MTy-flVv j^Jr.c iif rfli' jAii'JFr^rc^'rrrHrj: luildLin:

iiid { jjiiLjuiiy, IRJT;.n.'.iil.ihle LmjiIi SL'oktjnk Lace ami tho Hliodt; I$];uhI LliCe ^Vorks in. WlntaktT .IS 4. tfie tlknik tnuni

%'Jrjusis. ssjiIliil Luimui.. I^^rrinyton in ]yS7, then dosoiE Ijot]! phlill-Sin jyy], cit- Ili'iSAni'kVini.vrtl. Lr-Jirrj. L^fr.-t ffiiird HisiJL' iif ihe Auw/Triii/ Jyjivrjr ing as the rojson iJie oci^ttnee of Pi1r ELtsLorn manuJaL-tur- f,jiV l,iiifjiirry i'-SI'-J. lt.i-prljil,.^kfitLT, Liijdind: l-LL’jd li4Njks,

21 err who oi.^eratOLi on nui'tih kinitT pny scales.) m.

IlkhIiut, jNhsm l.fieksviii.Nii. ‘S^'^'liLi'isk l.ace lij CIusl- Its JlLuirv.” During I he tiJItls and lyciUs, bee ss'as a fash ion able f^i.irfsfiviN j'iir^rjr.rJ, NL^^L l3ll>^^ fi, VJDI

fabrEc Jor c1 rt?SSC'S and hats as well as decorations for Inti-

jS H O UT TH E a UT 3 t.i k. ,Siwj,ii_f JfAiivji- iV jiji.iru^vj iir ific Tippurd. ISytlif I 9£i 0 s, hciis’c^'or, changes in fflilvioii [ .tin'is'KiJy iifSIViscif^ f/fildif HiULt'fit TrxJilt & Ciiftiti\ic Cxifhrttiiw. to^dfiLT M'ilh o.imf>elLL(i:ni from liitmpL'an manufflCluiers Ti'fiiK- iL- jfjtf Jriirfwf .7ftpjrel rt’irstflum'iirJ. .SIlC t/ujn J' her rwasfrri

jJii- inrjtTRfry, ni«ri.'irrj,rjrh(;(i tionlrihuteii to a steady dcdijit; in Ihe ilumLitT oflace inills iffjfft.i_Jrufji nrJ rc.VrtffS. Sl/r fccrjiPLj: nrji

rMi'drri tirJjpMs.vCr iif ,j. tatiSr £i^tivr\as\>r. M/d fs rciS'JSiifJiirrJ j|i rJImfiiivjLS in tlid Unhod Stales. Today, ilio U-iivors Lace Corpora Jrjif Jjfsnirfr^lf Siirirfrci. .'S.fic fj hiippirtf irV/rji jiTun^ drinur, rjftjr(|i

tLon in West Greonu'ich. liKtide [slant!, is (lie only Amer- jiftiiwr, ..’iiiJ rfaji(4? irJf ffrJr/a's rf.vrjff.

1 ! vr eircrWn.Bic P I EC E 0 1{ K A L. ,i i.1 h' t . csrsi Aemilia Ars and the Twelve

Promises in Lace

li S' [ I- R O B F. R 1 S O N I A N

view gf the Aenulin AriL.ill'ardDLh on (hr

dkar at Sacro Cvo*ie.2WB. CcilecHon of SnopaCuorr, floTogn^P

^'Eiiifmi Kr/mMifti.

mspin^d by the Hngti&lTi Arts and Cmti.H M(ivi.‘cin.‘iiU founded N 1 A GROUP IN EJOLOGNA, ITAl.Y^

tlic Acmili.i Ar.n Scicitity to promolc t1ie production of Ihn'kssly evented handcrafts In conlfList to llii? I ugly mainifacturcd goods being [juss-produced at chciimt. Iih ljrain:h of embroider)' and l.icc, started

[he ftsllowiiijj yebir, ivould not only outlive [lie piirent company but would be jcdaitiK'd tvorldwidc for its ! bnt.-ithtakijnj needle Ijces. Known from ltH}3 as the Aomllia Ars Cooperative of l.ace and inbroidery^ tlic or^aiil?alion Irenes to provide local women with a meacts of earning a modes! income fn>[]i Itaiidwork that could bcdoitc at home without interfering with regular houHehold duties. Hie nobilily and upper classes of llologtia not only purchased llie finislied textiles btu assisted in tlieir sale at Italian tourist dcstitiations and abroad. Aemilia Ars taccs arul cmhrruderies caused asciisalion in ihearts ivorld and took ntmierou? prices and gold [iledalliOJlS at ijitcmalional e.shibiliotis.

became the first FSeCuining a Jiart of I he cuoyerative nieanl a great Don [ticcardo Z-iiCChi deal to t¥oi1ieri of all ecouenuie Icvl-Ls of UologUfl's so- parish priest of Sacio Ciiore when it was dei^ated from ciety; a a oulslilar commented on its '‘hiFnilylike" at- temple to parisli in I ft 5. He hatl ;(i1 tended I he Faeuity of mosphere. Many workshops and schools were formed MathemallcSi rhysicsarul Katurill Sciences of HoLogna around the city; the Olie ih^t made its home at ihe San- iuad had taught mathemalLcs and physiCS to sludeiits ot

Euario SaCro Citore dt Gesu (Sanctuary of ihc Sacred (lit seminary. I'oliowiitigliis ^^'isl^es, the Scuola E'emmini-

Heart of Jesus') was renowucd for the excellence of Hi Ee di l-as^oro del Eiaero Cuorr di GeSu (School of Femi-

tiu? ncl^d]cwork and its large Staff n>f lalenti^l nccdllehrorkers. nine VVotkS of the Sacred Ficarl of fi-sush sitLiJlIcd at L

of [h«' siJL‘cntracv£c !o Siacjin Cuorc). rose. It appears in many Aeilaih A?milia Ars-albar latitcl bLTii cslabLlEhcd in t?]2. ia A ns pieces (and in the C 0 m> £.}iMh;nfl*]le-

CLtuitltfss- 3.^ i n Uc? parveli Linn incunci pan ion project that foliows).

chat cann Cii-aj. 7 ii 3 «1 ( fieO”L 9 'l 2 ) also Ailtunilla slnrted learning Ae- thetifcurjrf Eoak an Lcitorc^l in tho school niilla Ara needle laCe tit lliea|^ MTibfokirrirs 3.nd under I he EulcttLgo oF the of thirteen ya^is under mtlSkr (IBvIi^X The- motif nifiSter .1| top nryttKitlOin kM'Cliei?. yf the art uf laceniiiker Olga Grassi UMA- blhu-in^piuliGn AemLEia Ars law nind Scid she was working on fw ch« pcojtcc cmbmictcr}'', the stutlentj; oF th< t vierycoiliplw pkee ofher own th.l1 Follpw;, 2D08, viertshop ot'Saeno Curtre de- Odf^lJonOt desigfi h^ihen she died at lire ege

t«ipCuor€. viekiped (heir lalenls with I he ofninety-thnec.iiheallertdcd the

DPlogtL:^ lc.ll/. neetik, hi 9^27, un the tenth schncjl for eight hours adayi in anniversary oF the .-InJ'rrd KmicnJi. temple, the evenings, she made smalJ

I he students a.nd teoehers. aF- pieces of Aemilia Ars needle Itice

(er working for more than- two to sell. .Anlnnilla would go on to

yea^s fill Sundicy ?if(ernyyns become one of the most Laicnitci

and their days off, ]»r«sent- Asniilia ArS laceniikf ns. ed the ehitreh ti'Lth an Between IMS and iy5Mhe

.nltar doth tor the main altar embroiderers made a smaller

7.] yards (6.5 m) version oft he grand altar cloth

iongaml ]5,7 indies {JM cm) hijj;h, it eonCains chiricen Torn smaller -eltupel lliat tliey themrebres used. It is much

panda, tiveivedejiicllng llie Promises ofihe Sacred ] leart simpler and stihstitute^. roses for the sheaves of wheat of

of lesus and a eecitral panel depicting (ilcJ Sfkred Heart the larger cloth.

itself. 1he altar doth is slilJ used at F.aster and Oil Ollier Vilirui hergami {IQ'T/- a talented embnoiderer whi,>

" sthjclol CKCiisiOilS. w.a^ \i stcident LinLil IV54, returned sometime after 1555 to

The embroidery was worfted on |]je finest linen in silk visit her Former teacherSh As she admireil the -smaller al-

thread; the thread ia so Jiiiie that It is SOrlietiiites said that tar cloth, a teacher. Francesca Ortolaili re-

i1 is made from the embroiderers'’ hair. Tlie lemtogriiplly is vealed that all of the students had participated in $4nie

so signirieant lilai it was used again in stained gEasa win- smitll Vviiy in its creation ivithouL knowing that the pieces

dows raadf In I93-I for 1 lie apse of Saeio Cuore. oFliic^ th'Sy weie rimking would become part of it. 'Vilma

Magniheent Acmilia .Ars fnjedte lafe frames the cir- keeps a. small picture oflier patfN.in Siiint in her wallet that

ailar embroideries (fn^rdJ). Flowers, vines, gc^psi, and she w’as given on her last day at ^acro Cuore in |^,M; Oil

4^'lieat, all riehty symbolic, are executed maaierfully hi the EmcIs oflhe picture are written the names eif her twch-

needle Eace thwujfllout the framewoiL erj; PnlilCviC!! Ortolani, Adele iaccaielli (IS95-J?^7Bh

it is likely that Antonilla Csnlelli (lyid-IDOS), despilc Enes Tampkri (IfiM’IViSa), Nosiilla Albertaz*! ( l£9^t-

liavingbeen a pupil at haem Cnore for only ii short tiinej l9Sdij. and Mdia Zanardi EhIOIi teacher had

liarLkipated in the makinp; -af the altar cloth hy eMCminj; her wn specialty— Francesca's was colored eillbroiderv.

amalldecajls. One tif the first motifs thil shecaecuted leaa the Adele'S- w'Lcs designing, Ines was an expert in .Aemilia Ars

Associdzionc Culturaic '7 merletti f/i An Ion ilia C^ntdli"

Th e CuliTiral As^od^liorv “Antoniiia Cantellils Lacc-s' was f^mnded in iiolirgivii in 20fM in homage to a great master itf Aemilia Ars. AntoiilUaCduielli f]P]J -200ft) was in hill ortistkictMty until the lost day ofEitr lung and hntrUw^jriinglift'. The

niiSiium gf the jiKociation is- 1o execute the laces aeeording to the mctlnxils and citeria that she taught. Because ilte y came froru som«Mie wli* hun!t:lfparticip?.i«l in the AemilJa Ars Coojscraiife’sprCiduetiiHi, they eonstilute a point of reference for

continuing a tradition lEiat must not Ixe hngtittcn. UwaHoeiatlorfs works haive been displayed iit HcitagnaimJ elsewhere.

-r. fi-

ll P ti C E rihcx Vi' 4^i.K.;vi ACJiZl^!F: rnu . " LEFTiDddil dF eire dFthtcifcular &R3br&ldeTl«

(ror>

clgtlt.TF>rteKt

^bmuiKf EFiO dmbrr>i(I»y iranslii«'lwlll

give iFiemalF (Hit gricern%Minry

for EFieir stated

Htfr'JCWBL

Cotleeiion of ^acroCuwe.

BologibV lEnly.

J4Liriiv|rj};fi i!>y

-'lii^'ra KiiiMiidi. Alipjilu. fJ ^ilrJfifilriii dfF S. i» Uolopiial tiiL'dlc looksd Jitter the children, and S'el- kiuLu. Cww Siianlu Gr-jfica Sjli'tijIW. tint of print. HKHHT.SLlKjHtS.oF La made (he }nerSi>iljSl linens— bul each one kaievv lio^' lo IKol'ertser. Je-jibii'c ''A NeuillulaLc Lcj^ity-; Icaly'-s Armili-i An [iwworfcSctiooi" do cverylhing. ^ 5oderj'.'' Maj'/Jinm; 2tXiO'. at Sacro CLK!te.

IV ivwji? n 1 i ] i .1 - 3 . L I FJoiogi^ Kaly.

wwv.--'ucn>4uun;-Ln.ikt¥Jiia.il/iljF4piida.fitip?l = l>t2 tp5i(rfcn;!r.ipbib ruitFi leaclvris FUBTJIIEk I^FAtJINCr -urdic alur eloch). I^CraS-li -iisd tJranli ClIiL-ttL U-ern.mlini, t Larli. IJisrclta lilJVJna^ [IBSfi-lfl'tSbat

tib'i* kft ihv'?Jiiv jjh/ €- a SSVS-mj. TKI H UT1 1 C J K. Jfjjiirrr W-:iih.vr'itVI Jl'i'e? HjJ.Ji,CLh.-1™iVjJ.-Lri.vlrri Cm/rf A R-O U I left and Adalgiui JOiJI .tTini ckT pnnt. fiear [-rnirLi-Htvr, CnFuMiAiu, Stic hat hten -Milan: A+G idiiioni. Arrn^igll 4 I$A4-

Jinr iif^w I'tiiii-j yi jxi h' AJcrF^rri' e fiiVditri' nirrJru /Ir [Lici; arid Enihriijiderj- ot rffcarchi/\il JfilFhtir ^UfO^FoiV^fA' tm iWtfvfn|S atiiglnL

AeiniJia Ar-^|- ttu print. Jiuluniia: Univ-ei5.!Tj" I’hm .^nvrjF iT«'if/rttVirA';fJ|i‘FiFj; F-lji'j firr AFi'v 'it frrjjT://rfilF^ilp-rJiViF/jt4V3l^; Circa 191«.

-Siir rJi. !«(./ ific .^Jr^f^;^NlruJ«l iilmirj- rtl Jl.tiiifi.^;nvi., holii^iu, (.3m< u[']--iinl. • FiFij]Cj;^Hir.H’itt. PlbOEographeE I’mmi-ua di-l Sarcu Ttiifj, jM/TjJi /in'fjr x^SiUrit Gk-il', ('Tjjiri?; Vi:[-r€nti,t;a1>riL[la,'’La CrJTide Cuim: unfcnoevrv

Kiifd JtJriiiin?.; J-Tw^iNUiiii'^ -TJ^: i'rj/itcun t fjif-rrjrr di |The Cre.n Vronbi^ie tit'ilis Su-riicl lieaTC uf/esus-]. lyr. triFirirV^ Collcctk*! of tlw iiiiftt Cifwi* Vtff fhwMfLjIi'. Mjv I'jyT. Ji}r\hfTr ipjidiniW^ dtriinwiir iVi jAc jwT]fMr.ifjnir of tf\ri irrtiVFf. AfHXiarKmc- Cultuidle'^

nurletiiidi AmoriiibGantellir

Skjltjgnn, ilt^V- Aemilici Ars Needle-Lace Insert io Stitch i^.'4£uiiruwr

t. I. ] ~1 I ]> I ^ rJ T K fjii,lrtrnt iiniiS' A SSO C I A 0 M K c: U I.T U K A I. E M E P t H T T ANTONtLCA C "F

A' .a I lU iJb Gfi I uE. It S A K l> ] E A ?T [ N J: K O H I:- T O

his insert is C-akon frym (tnJ original Aetitilii Ars y aimlle and (he fdacc thread, (rvercasl iiiLI pieces togeth-

er iiPnund llie edges. With the siite ? needle, punch holes T allnr doth made by tlie sludtJrttS Jind Icachcrs of the and viorkilippi^rl stitches with ihc si/e ll> needle flaid (he workshop/school located a( Lht SaCrt'tl Hwifi .‘janetLiary in Gljiee thread (Figure 2). Bologna, [taly, and complelcd in iy27 (see the preceding arLtdc). h is iieorked in ihc tradition of AejHilin Ai^i and -M A'rr: K9 A LS uses (lie folLei^'Lng traditional si itches: buLtOrihH^le Stitdi (2fil .5 DMC Ccjnlomiet Thread, 1 0tHfr etJUdo thread, sw 50^ m)i si ilch fpETflifl ftSJ'tft.uJC'J- {pMiTiv ymirfo}, overcast or cording 0.illj 1 ball of &Janc; svww.dmc-usa.COiTi Coati Clace Thread, 100% cotton (lareadr size ^00 yds (2?4.3 m>f Eto), picerts drrN/r/ifFfr)^ spider ivchs uilh picots (n^'^pruifrl, spool, 1 spool o1 White; wvvw.coatecrafts.ca.uk and Venclian knolU'd or Anttverp stitch [putH

1 1 .d I K s I K u t: 1 1 o S S Vellum or tracing! paper, inches (6.3 * cm)

2 Vi v. inUi^s (6.1 if 1 l.Si cm) [ttM;rl White paper, ttristot carditock, IVi n 4^2 inches (6.3 n U.4 cm), 3 pieces Center and l race the design (Ihgurc 1) on lhe 'h^hite pa-

per, Lfiyer the i-ellnm, ihc traced dcslytl, aald all cardstock finished size: 1 Vi n 3Vf (3-B k B-3 cm)

pieces in lliis orLicr; round off all corners. Using the si?fl Turu woifc; sLan at hHiti 2 (Ingure 5] Jind work the end

of tile curl with 5 buttwjhole stiLches for the I si ren^', enclos-

ing the laid threads. Carry the Ihread back to the iefi aniL

skip the 1st buttonhole stitch of the 1st row. slitdiicig into

the festoons (hose loops) oftl ie pn'trvimLshuctcHihcilc^Jittih-

es. Work sdtclurs for the 2nd oiw. enduing the carried-

Hwer tliread, Whipjticdi the iVsloon of the next buttonhole

$lUch to travel, coming out inside the festoon of the last

stitch of the previous row. ContinLie to work iriHire tutllon'

hole stitches over the laid thireads along eIil- itain d»ign

line until arriving a1 tlie iiicot. l^Lirk a picol and runtinue

witli Un; buLLonliok‘ stitches until arriving at the base of the

1st kafvSLeiTi. Abandon ihe padding ihreadst thei' will be

picltjed nplalerwhen eontinuing wiih the main, design line.

Run. the thread under the su]iporL siJcdies of the leaCs

iulerbcir oulIJne to l^iLnl 3 (Pbguj'e 5). hun :l ihreail coun-

Th? (iM’dlr- Ince' iVcJ(iy; 'Jy cnfuLc the motif oullinL** of l,iid Ihreacli, run terclockwise arr'Nurid Ihe Outer reetitnjii^dar periaiwter of ihe

inwrr sTiieheci the vi'orkini' thread under the support s^titche:;. Do nol pull eniincdc-sigik. Tvlurniug to Point ^ O'isune 5)- I'rom Point J hymwlwfsoi sei tlt;hl]y 1o dii^ton the design slup^e, IulI i]jes^ ihreHids pass, under ihe stippon stitches aking the olher side of the (hie *swt!«ioiie sluiuld IoIIlw the Llesign lines n‘iiELHii,Ll iicLy CulLurjl?'*l shek, ISuLUin- leaf's interior outline, reluming to the base of Ihe sleni.

mcriettidi hiileslUeEics line :klwii)'s i\'c>rl:.ed From left 1o riphl and usu- Pass twice mcire under thesupKinrt siitcliL'S aoiiiiiLl ih^ in- AntDnllta iill)' iiver (wo pnddhiB llinead";, untess slated otherv'riic. terior II lies of Ihe le;-if,silo[i]iiiig icseseeuie theo^x.in fist bnr CdnicOi'In 'i'um the work HicconJinslj' (o efieciiCc Ihe t;titehei piropcr- 111 iheceiiier lui the Ijisiic |jy earryiiiig tin" ihread acrxss-s llalDgnn, Italy.

Hie iiHserCi rose !>'. Abandoned threads are Eefi on top ofIhe Lieelo he tmr. theCtfnler td" the leaf tinderlhe stippoH si itch on the other

iiWIif is lissed ied and eut when the work fl>r die area is finisFied. Often shieand oier the hid threads and ihen back totlieslarlijig inkert these threads may he utlliKeLL :iJi ptiddiiij^ thn(.':Ltls lor but- poini, going over and under the laid Ihieads. Ocereas-I the kein Die Aemilij tonhole slllelies eseCtiH'd ?i( ii Inler staj^'. I ry to keep the threads jusi laid pass under iheover

nfiiiv^Tiij'jj t'j' ivorltijig surfiice iKMt as ptjsaible by ending threads that timi [olhesiarting poiiiL. CLHiiiiiue neitiriLing lo the base of r.v f .'.vj lui iLftf hmger needed lighl -away. IJend the eaidstockoser the stem (Pigun? fi), SiaHitig I'mm llie base -i.if the leaf slem.

your linger to beder e?teeute thesUteh.es. Ehe three layers ^vurk a rtswof btillonholc sLitdies m-er the laid threads ivilh

of cardstoch make rorasnmig Iilli lleKildL'suppHiri that can 2 padding threads to theeentral tip of the leaf (figure 7).

withstand Jiioi'ejiient during iliesUKl iing of the liwe. Wuik an (isercast bar altachc'd to the outer reclangu-

Uilnglhe Cordon net thread. ^Inrl stitching the desigri lar perimeter of the cleslgu; and return under ihi; nver^

wiih the eenlrnl rose motif hy passing J limes under die easi har loearry iln; ilire-atl bnck to ihe point where

support slildies antiund ihe cireumferenee of the circle ihe leaf si ar Is lo Iwgin a 2itJ row of bullonhole si itch-

at the rlowe/E eentcr. Work a row eifhul ton hole siitch- es. Stitch through ihe festoons of ihe buttonhole stitches

es with 2 padding thre-ails arouaiiL tin,* eireumFerence over in ihe previous row. Cover thecarried-over thread when

the laid threads. loeEose []ieeirelc% stiielt iiti,o ihe 1st but- compteling the 2nd row. stopping a fev^ si itches les.s ctian

LoithiiEe siitcli.

kuss onee around ihe outlines of all petals un- rigure I

figures I -24 tler lbs: supp^.l^t stitches. Work rows forward (left courlayaf to right ) and then return (right to lefi) of V'eii^' IhrA'.'iCK'taFrfint lian knotted stJiches inside each petal (Pigu re 3)-. CififiMure -"t Ifor Ihe main design liiie, run a line of Ct^rdounel

Aftiiemvvti Cot'iKlIi.' tlirrad under tlies;u|jpt3rl stitches Limes between .-IJUAfliWf mJJ-'Ai" IVnnus ] and 2 (.starting at 1 to 2, 2 to I. and again jiljjiiviyiWjl.i

j-Ti>^nill ii'tf- t lo 1) and abandon the thread (Figure -1).

Vi ih 1.1 w I ya: r k k n A:i\?i\:.CQ m 74 I

Figurr 1 Figure S Figure 4

Flpufiet FIrjUirt ?

figures Figure 9 Figure 10

Figuo; FigurL*- II rigurEf' IJ

Figure figure 1 Figme15 16

Figure Tiguffi 1 figure 13

figure ^ Figure J ngurtlJ

I h' I L w If t VI AT . J u K JiD.1 J- r Figuie 2A

tlie ESI noiv, Curry thf ihreid back l-o begin I he 3rd ra\-f, After completing the leaf, continue the raw of button-

BcEurr bL'gLnning. 3rd raiv:, run the ihrni^^d under hole stitches along ihe main design line, slopping to work

purl sliitcK ^IlKe lip nf the Iftt lr>he mud fetli^Ji 10 be- the overcast bar that connects to the Jobe of the le-af be-

ginning of the row, then work ;in overeasi b;in hooking lohh' Continue to the picol. svork the picot. and contintie inlo the raw of t^revlousEy eomt^leied InUKmhole alimheii to the end al Point f> (Pigure 13J. Work the end of I lie Ctirl

along the main design line, reluming tnider t3]e overciist as before: a row of 3 'hullonholc sthebes atid then tow

slitthes. Work 0 Shorl row ofliulKuiJiole stilcher wht the of 3. '[ 010 the work and work u row njf hutlonliok- Stilcli- laid Ih reads to forui the flril lobe of ihe leaf (htgure S). es ^eith 2 padding threads imtll arriving 111 Point 7 (Fig-

Beliirji to the hegliinirig of the 3rd row underneath ure 1-1]. Abandon the 111 read.

the ititches of the kMf lobe und work the 3rd raw of bul- Wilh a ntwv thread and 1 Pnldding thread, alun al Point

tonhole ilitehes. Al ihe lip of the 2nd lobe, pass a thre.id (Figure IS) iind ^vork a raw of buttonhole stilches until

under the support slileh of the outer reetartgul.tr perime- arriving at 1 lie overcast burlhul connects the curl to ilEelf;

ter of ibe design tis stilched for the lipeif the leaf, work an work this bar. Praceeil lo tlie next overcast bar that con-

overcast hir and relum to m.ikea snaail ^o^|.'ofb^Lttonbole nects the lip of the leaf lobe to ihe nniin buttonhole stitch

stitches for the 2nd lobe. Work the 3rd iolte with Siliall rawE work ihis bar. Proceed to the picot, work ihe picot

overcast bar at the tip in the same inannei^- fV$$ Oil- aiid Continue Lo the base of the smaller curl. Almost im-

dcr the stitches of the overeasi bar to begin a new row of niediiilely after the picot where ihe thread was abani,irined

bultunholc slMehes on the oilier side of lilt leif (rigure 9 ). at Point 7,^vork bultonhoJe st itches owr theccnlMl “vein"

^Vork theolher half of t lie leaf. KnJle that the initial as fur the leaf stem (Figure 16).

and cnding.bultonhole itkches Of llli^ ranv ivill sliare the Kun ihe thre.id under tbs supporl Stilc lies and back

same "veirC as ihe Stilebes on I he olher .side of the leaf and then up again lo create a 3 !ai(Mll rend base for the

tVhen arriving,11 tlie leaf Stem, proceed in the same man- smaller curl and work I lie end part as before for ibe larg-

ner us fo-Mlie inilLal pnlrl of this row, sharing ihe central er cnHi.ibandoil (be threiid (Figure 16).

"veiir,ind creating butlonholc-sl itch festoons on either Al the b.isenf the SPilidler Curl (lugure 17}, begin a roiv

side (I'iguresSand 9-). of bLUtonbole si itches U'iib t piiddiilg si itches thiil will fol-

Using the previously jbandoned thread, enniinue the io w' aroiiiul lo the end, .sharing the "vein" of the 5 prci-i-

row ofbuClonliole stitches along the main design line by OtLsIy W'yrked hulLoiiliolesLitches.il I lie end (Figure IS)e

$1 Itching into ihe festoon of ihe last executed stitch and alwmlcul ihe thread. Work a 2nd rowofbuLtonholc stitch-

with 2 p^idding threads until arriving al Point d (l-igtcre es from tin- base of tbo small curl (Figure if!), starting a

ly). Carry the thread over 1o Point $ and wn>rk a row of couple of si itches in lo Ibrm a tapered edge. .Stitch .iround

bullonliole stitdics wilh 2 p.tdding threads stitching irUO tlk- end part, remembering to stitch the overcast txir that

the festoons of the previous row and covering tlie Cur- connects ihe smaller curl Id itself. Inimcdiatiiiy allef the

ried -over thread. end part, this roiv of stitches will share ibe central “vein"

Coni inue the hutlonlmk stitclt-es uloiig ihe illuin dc^ on the return trip down the other side (Figure 19).

sign line until arriving ,il the buse yf the next leaf. Work Continue witli the main de^iign line of bull on hole

ihe nest leaf as before bui do m>L Stiicli the overcast bar stitches, slifl ring ihe ceulral “vein" as. tile previous -stitch-

that connects the tcvlw to tiiC btUloilliolc stitdics of the es. until arriving at tlie base n>f tlie smaller Curl on the

main design line. Til is bar will he slitched when usirking other side of tbe design: abailtlon tbe thread (Tigure 20).

the buttonhole stiiches of tlic main design line after ihe Work and fini.sb the curls on the olher side, starting wilh

leaf is compleisd (E-igures II and I2j. tlie 3 laidritifeittE ba-se for ihe taller curl. IF coming lo

J' 1 IV I .4.' 1 Cf fl K K hi t e K K K A : A 14 r K 1 [I M twice more under the i point wlicre Ihfl' bgltonhuL’ ititcht^s c^nnCit Lk u'nifltcJ hole stitches before Cutting. Pass rectangle perime- from lofl to right, abandon the t+ircad JiiUl ,i.ga3n support stitches, of the desLgtl'i outer dsL^diert. RciHeniber to use the abiindnaJCd (lirctidiai ter in a counterclockwise direction and w'orl; the over- paddici|; (liriMds opportune, for ihe luSL row of btit^ cait bars that connect the inner motifs hvhen arriving al al the intersec- tonhok- ftildies 10 ei>mp]e(t ^he Jjrger cu^L^ uW 1 i^ni- each (Figures 23 and 24). For the pkois ding, thread, tion of oT.'eicast bars, see the Spider Webs with IhcoCs di- stitdies with padding threads WhLpsUtd] al] (Jlii: pttal outJincs of the rose ^nlll long agram. Work buttonhole 2 perimeter of MltdicK and it llie Mine linifl rcjncmber to ivork all OYier- OT.'eMhc laid threads of the onl'er recca ngk

24"), cast bars connecte^l LO Hwoi (Figure 21]. Workbultoidiole the design (Figure

Stitches with 2 pndtting ih reads around the petal outlines Make sura all w'orking thread ends are buried under finished (rigure 22]. When the lail jsetal 1^ completed, ^vhipsCildi the button hole stitches and trinnnncd close to the of the outline of the ceaiiraL circle and ivork a row ofbut- lac^. Cut and remove the support ilLtches on (he hack loathole ititches with 2 padding threads around the cir- the cflfdstoclt: rcnio^'e the lace, Fiiiisliing cle, workiJtg ptcots where ^;howis (flgore 23). CJloac the Wash lace; iron with a pressing cloch fnec dowts on a circle by entering into tlae festOOtt of ihe J st buttonhole thick towel, stitch iXnd burjf the working thread end under the button-

Rcoi Veneiian Itroitedititcli

A B C

Overeat Stitet* SpidcfWL'bPiteis

E

rij.'_rf.iiirnir

SLAYiJUtsh 241 J 'CI.CT.WHllK 49 Laura Ingalls's Knitted Petticoat Lace

\J ARY L T t A X

- n ALL TUF KLRDJ,EWOl!iK 0105. 1; rlb-ed iii L^uru Inyails Wildcr’

pettiooai Ljce chat Laura (iSfi 7-iy,S 7 ) kiiitred during the Hartl Winter uf tfiKQ-i!?si speaks (o O me tJie most. As supply trains comir^ i,oest from Mijmosocu wnTt: bltjcki-d by ioc anti sno^v, as foot! and fuel stocks dwindJed (o nolhiny^ as shrieking bJi^Kard winds bleu' sm>u' inlfs hcju-se-high drifts or

scoured the street bare, ihirteeji-ir'ear^old Laura sat in her Pa’s stone building in I>e Smet» DakiNta Terricury,

and hniiced laee edging on Fine needles with a spuul tNf cuitun thread.

Tti^ Ir^lllgiit^: Winters iverc usually a long iT^Jtnnc] underwear-, (letE lArighi) scaton of relative Jeisure all hanil-sewn from store- Cdrri#, for rarmviiomcn. .Aflcr the d«ld LJirr^. bought yard goods. iV1 a Phoiographer hard work of harvest a rut imd Mary kniued socks -iynd-daC? preserving. ry iclig. -Srtujk- for J’a and stockingji gnknQWJii. iug, or Freeaing food for for all ihc girts. Kvery.

Lathi l/^dU) the coming winLerf ihcy one Jiad 1 o be cocooned

J I ii*^ could lesc a liUle. Tj-pica]- in w'oo] cc>ii(S. ,sha^ds,

ly, llity did thoirhouEC- hoods., munier^i, ami mu-

ivoik in the morning and te ns before (hey could

Served the main meal at step Outside.

noon. vVfter the disheis Ma could knit socks

hverc done and the hah-y hy firelight or lamplight^ pul down for a nsp, they and blind Mary could

could sil down '^'ith (lieir knit at any tijue. L.ir-

needlework. ly afternoons, with their

Eiven without a farjJi, stmng sunlight, wenj Ihe

the Tligall.S family had hesi time for Ihe fiddly

ke])( to (hat paltern dur- palter ns ^nd (Itiy itiKh-

ing ths" previous year

wlien (hey hvintered over Midday winter tiinlighl in (he surve™is house at reflected from ice or Silwr Lake. "In the snug house LiUirnl mnd Citrrie helped snow was thf strocugest and dearest light ofa II.

Ma svith thchouMu^nrt:, and Grace p]ayed^ runningahoul I’a's si ore hull ding in t>e Smcl, on (he east side of

t he big room wi(h toddler short steps Listening lo north-.im.l’SOtith running Main Street (now t^alumet),

stories, (irace would fall asleep. Then Ala laid her in her had wirulow-son each side of (he from door. Thai 'eas tiuiidle hfld t>y Ihe slove, ^nd they all ieltled down for a just tlie place lo put Ma’s and Mary's rocking chairs fijr

cory afternoon eNfkiiiLtjng and sewing and crocheting" Ry (he most wTurmth light that is l-aur:.ii \ and , and w'here $^t lo

wioik on her lace on a K.Uurday in Octolterof lifltLl;

There was plenty of roulLnc needlework (0 s!o. The

four Jihgallsgirb wore ^vool dresses and petdcoafS o'H'er In the sunshine from the western wiildow-s Mary SDUth p.ikaE .1 rockod giMilly, and I n 1 a nd I he fa in i I y claim shdnIjE, [.aura's s^tcd knitting bad lived free of charge similar in In the surveyor''s house ncfdle!; L»u° oonitructlon

knitllnj; ]fiCL‘, ul' Lhe previous winter, the ToPa'sv with tarpsp^r finq; u'lulc 4 bread, Co Spring yod summer of and I,i1h. irLjn a pelcLcoat. ^lie lBy& had proved very O sai ClOSfl (i> tbc Win- e?t pensive. had had Soiirfr i^ilo'-r

dow und wai'Cli'CMi the to buy lumber ansi hire

•iCr^SI. fOf S'liC w'as cx- a man Id help build the

peClirisi Mflry Power tinyshiirtly on theclsim.

and Miilrtio Johnson. He’d also bought a mow-

'Ihey Vi'trC' coming to spend the afternoon, briii^in^ ing mechine to eut hay for the coming winter. Tlie lirst

would not be- harvested until the fail 4heir erocheChlg. . . , "Pl', ho4her! [\e miscourH-ed ^rnall garden crop

ihc slLtclies!”' sh-evxcJaiined, She iinravekd the tow of ISfUU, and so they’d bad to buy food. Uy the time Laura

and bL^'an lo pkh l!ie tiny itilches up ae.ain on the helped Pa wilh steckiug hay Ln the summer of 1-BSO, her Ike f.o^Eg IFniiter] showed tine needle Ihe little loop&oFi bread hv'ere dim- dress of "faded, thin calico" |

ming before her eyes »s if slae w^ere going blind. She how pincheii llie fiinily fmattces had bcconte.

could not see tlaein. Tlie spool o-f thread dropped Laury likely couldn’t afford yarn-ealLng fa ncyn-ork

from her lap and r-olled a'Vay Ot> (he floor is she projects such as shau'Isor fascinators {lightweight cro-

jtimped up ||7he hong tV/nier]. cheted or k nil tell head scarves), and there's no telling

^vhethcr lhe stores iii the new-buill toivn were carrying

Tlien ^mother hlixjard strneb. yarn for such things at nil. Nevertheless, for the price o-f

tv’hen coiil supplies began lo run low- in [>e Smel end a spool of common tlneiid, a dev'er ghl conEd knil yard .s lusurj- LfaiiiSi 'i'.'cre blocked again, the Ingalls ftnllily Sioppfti us- of the lovclLest trimmiiig iillaguKlble, Eieantyand but hy knit- ing the coiti heeter lit the fmnt rt^tmt and Itu-ddled around mighi he Ln short supply in De Siuet itt 1{!S0. ihe cook itove in the kilcbeji in the back. 'Jhe eraiiiped. ting lace, Laura could create both. darker kitchen h.id a single side window, Latira kept koil- PcItLcoat edging —Lauras eveniually mevtsureil 6 yards ling herUieo. When ?.gnshine melted the frost on the teiil- (5.5 m) —was the kind of major pfojecl tb.tt site could

il.S pattern dow- and it refroiie into sheets of ice over the -cold glil-SSK seltle down to iu the autumn. She knew that she pried the iCe OtTlhe panes, svLped them dry, and kepi would keep lier entertained, and its progress would be on knitting. She fiiuslltd the lace before Christmas. 'Ehe SOnieilllug that she could mark with pleasure O^'er A pe-

pres- riod iliany week,'i or months. It W'as 3 fme antidote to trains were Etil! blocked, 4 iih1 W btiying Chris! mas of ents for anyone hut Grace and Py was out of the cjueslion. cabin fever. Moreover, knit ted- lacc edgings iseemed (0 be

i fashion. Hdirperi iJiJ 2 trd?r bad publit-lied Laura wound her lace into •A roll, wr.ijspcd Lt carefully in com rig back inlo tissue paper, and gave il to Mary: "She fingered it Loving- no patterns al all for (liein from 1372 through 1B7 j, but ly and her face was shining 'vitll siellght. '['11 save il to then it publiilied tw^:i In seven in lJi?7, Five Ln 1JJ73. leear when I go to college,’ ihe said. ‘It's ynolher thing to and tliree moie in 1^79, ” newi^tiipcr published them as well. help tne lo go. It will be so pretty oh il white j.ietti<:oat" Al least one big City

ITTJf IV'jj-jJ'erJ. The tveekly edition of the .Vew-Vork 7 riiNjne distributed

CCM-Sl toeoast by' way of After Christmas, [.aura workeil for I he OCMt fnur many knitting and Crochet patterns months Itviiliog hay tor fuel and grinding seed wheat in theiM'cr-expanding rail network. A digest of the local daily the Cortife mill 10 muke coarse flour to help her family itir- edition, its only new material was the kjlitlilig and crochet vive. Her liands became rough and swollen and covered column that Lt had begun puL>lishlrl.g ill I&79, On Dcccm-

1 he with cuts fiomi LllO sharp slough hay. '[here would be no thsr 7, 1 379, by popular demand fcoin locaC subscribers, more faitCywoik until May. Tr,i'fwjtfe began reprinting its weekly edition patleiilS in 5un-

"t'he Ingallses were strapjied for cash. While Fa had iby issues of the daily edition. '[ he lirst Suruliiy coltuun con- earned S3€K5 as a railroiid camp storekeeper at Siih-cr Lake tained illusi rated palterns for a LadLes’ Knilteil Vest HUd A a

Child's ECnitti^d Crjitcr, yivei cuntri billed patterns 5nei, iliowirifl ^ictl lil: kriiUEni; instnjctii.'i'n!;

fur i] Girl s a Worth Wcsierjt tUbbed Hood, asstnues, no I'espunsiliHit}'

Railw^ trdini Cluiid, 5l RuSc'Ltaf llondcra in regard to tlinm." CWhihguo and ITsefiiJ Edyhlg. A Ctxr- [n early IBSO, a flurry of lawn from i;^;t rispotidfnts coIttFUin, "Tin: correspondence broke out Ai'id WErLE. D(! JmftwDstht Scrap-lJagT rtrplii^d to read- trtKjr cornecLioiis to- a flawed MjEting Far TFir era' RiquestB — in this case few S'ormsruly hace palter

u xlarruTV knitted insertion. \eith several knitteri ufTer-

.^iirA' JjjJLvrj Tile lutee-iiljjing piUlerns ing varying Aolurioiis. TTiis

FXi'.ifiiiTrdl Swiftj: went over partieulHiriy well. and other matte rs made

The neixt ilaUy edition fiuU ^'I'he Scrap -ESag" a hodge-

umn on DKenitwr i l, IS79. jiodjjt! of queries, ansu'crs.

bejpn by intnxJudng three ilJLLSttvitctil pallenis for knitted ln.ee corrections, and -comptalntji written by knitleri who

ed.i;Lnf^; '1'iinisLiin Laciv Rice Stitch I.acc, and KiiitteJ Point: sometimes identified their location. iMany were in the

eastern seabo-ard slates, but E. E M. of Annapolis, ^•iis- Thegr^at Inteiesl ^ehich many lady readers have sourS, Mrs. F. D, Pf Bratton, Kansas, Mrs. \V. P. Miller shown Iti the directions for making knitted laccj of Stockton, California, and Mrs, ]. R. Kiddle of Oregon given lately by THE TRIRUNEj siiyge^ts that oth- were all reading the newspajveKs knitting patterns, work- er patterns, ci-cn prettier than tlim ftrsi and as easily ing them up, iand writing about knhting tbrn^tegh the pages made, shall be presented. Cuts [engravings] and e\- of the ^Vfcify I'yibMuc. "The Scrap- Bag" was UtHe R^t'.Xilry pl anal ions of three charming styles will according,- on the Prairie, ly lie fouitd bi'lovv, When knit in fine .Sayoniy yarn The Knlltihl Shell LaCe 1 lia^e chosen for Laura (see the these edgings are the best possible trimming for projjecrhtlow) likely wrns nut new when it was published in flannel underclothing: thty wear and wash- the weekly TriitJdne on November 1 2. lS7y. A rudimenta- ing only imprm'es them. tiVheii moderately fine col- ry version -of it had appeared in |ane GaugUln's 7T)f iadyh tUii is used this Lace makes a beautiful trimming ASsfjJrtrrf, Volume 5 ( Edinburgh, lfiS7). Kntitled ''Rdging foc* tidies, handsome towels, and other .articles of (More Curious '[ ban Beautiful)," it laid out the technique houseliold nape ry whidi it Ls now the fashion to- ofy.arnov'cr increase in garter stitch offset by a multistitch trim heavily, hehllij knit in vyfy fine cotton it scri'es decrease gathered OC'Crti single stitch. 'Ihia was apparently many purposes which may be left to the ingenuity a novelty conutared to 1 lie monS Cotnmon practice of bind- of the ladies to discoi'cr themselves. ing olT a number of stitches En one tow (o form it point.

Some ofthe patterns were reprinted from earlier print- Tlie combination of Vandyke triangles in1erspePS^^^i w'hh

ed sources, oflcn witliout altributton; readers. contribuici;l giiliter Squares eventually emerged, ll-nth hound-offqioltil

others. When knitter^: wrote in to complain -of mistakes and gathered- wallop ver-sions were included in ifutvro Use

in these patterns, the editor responded in the Februarif I, EforcMfc Knitting Siiii (Boston, 1830).

18S0, Leeuc in an affronted lone; “The TKllSUj^li nalurallv In IBfiO, the Whfree piihlished a Kniidtig ijirtr {No.

What the Ingalls Family Read

In ]>ccenibci ISSO, with tratna blucLuJ by bliji^ards. Mr. Gilbert brought ihe weiLbtnind mail tm from Preston (now

PreiKHt l,ake, ]Q milei [It. I km] cost ofDeSmrt) hysludaqd te5.m. [Jk Ingallses" bundle conioJncil copies ofduj ,^(fi\irjrre, Cong/egaiLoiial church newspaper from Chicago for Ma? ihe InEer* fjipeen weekly newspaper from Chicago and che PfoFiPfr Press from MlniKapalLiftw Rs; a hurdle of copres of 7?je Karjffjjs CarttpatHi>sr. pnilslidied in ^icumand ferwarded by a Sunday schoul dasi in Minnesota, for Laura and Carrie; and from the Reverend Alden, a letter for Mary Jc-serihing the Chrlslmaibarrel, now froum on a snowbound train, which they would n*ei*iH.-eilb(: hJIcviving .Mny iTfir Long tklufer]. They saved the storks in Ute VuufAlF CompariMn treat. — . “to knit when she was five TC* CoMCf of 5^) :hii^I iAl?;o dJJiJ OiJifJjrJl: il MW' (l3B&“iy5S), litfk ratvT] an ifH* in her IVb^PNiprs i}ay IJn/ Nu. 52). H years old," Rose notes Piaitieb^ Ldurj LTil’'kiii(1inj; ftcMpk vj }^?cdlewoyk (New Voik: forlj'-pnlK.^ tMJOktft and crcKhet li!.^IISWirO«r. August pattcmsK l^5Lth rcjM^inK fr4^m Its. daily niiJ Simon aild ScllUStcr, l^W). From f.Vjjrffj}- wi-tkly-coliinnii. Tlit latitr LncludiN) diir- I8S2 to Sepietiiber I89J. when Rose was ty-thiL'L“ paHtTJlS for kniMcd-]acL‘ ed^iiiy, ages five to seven. Mil ilod provided day- aoTTOM: Oaver while l.aura dTfieioJr^ icvcraL vf iticcci nil5Hi and dabora- care at their house in De SlllCt tVinref by Laura tionfi ot'lhc KniULHi SFujH I.JW- T.atcr pub- VhTorked as a seamstress, Suvlrig up 10 miikc IrrftDllsWikScrJn paticrns a fresh start in ^fissourii LicatLons pirakMJ synlt Of (bii and -iMhlqh sli^ elaborated the Trfbwnf slltlli e^'cn further. dcKiibcilhr Those afternnons 1 sat on 51 SlOOl by blicsdrJ5 bf Fronli'Cr ^1'ame^ prii«l— ^lild Shared CTrandma's chair, and she taught mc l3flCJ-lB3t newspapers and magazines from hack to knit and crochet and to piece Jliy and knictinp east. On ChriRtmaR Hve of 187^, when the the lace tor first palchwork quilt. When I finished newLy jimfrled BoaRts arrived fruiiJ )owa taary^ peUk'ejrt. 51 day's stint, I could help her sew car- c7ji,nm|; ^ at the Silver l.ake Rurveytirs house, MfSr IlTfJWT UoUilLC. pel rags, r . , [When Laura came to Uoasl Imd piched their Rlough- bound lake Rose homo[ she nearer failed to bobsled with fl bride's pioneer essentials: ask Gnuidmit a little attsiously, “"Has popcorn. Canned t>yite^R^ and a lall slaek site been a good girl. MaT" of Story-papers, eopies of the iVe^f VurA [ tried all day to bc good, but i Udger, that she SOOn. lent to l.aura; dreaded that question, , - - Crand- truth- l.aura rai: nil (lie neay home with an ma was kind, but slie must be

armful of papers. She btirs-t into the ful. Sometimes she had to answer, “] house and -dropped them in Marj-^s lap. don't want tei tell you, Laura, but

“Sec, hlaryt See whnt I've bronght]'* rHc I’ve got to. She has not been vary dil-

cried. “.Stories! Ihey’re all Storieil" igent." And there would be my nine -patch block,

“Oh, hurry up and the snp|,-her\i,inrk done so xve not finished.

can read!" \lary said eagerly. Rut Ma said^ “Mev- Tliero it W^as, and nothing Could chililg-e it now

[By ihe Rose VVihicr ] .atie's*'C]randpa's Fiddle"]. er mind ihc hrark^ Laural Rj£'L*d PS it Story!" I

Ma'S fearsome Scottish r-eetitude was passed down 1o

Laura Hilwayj; enjoyed knitting much iliore than sewing., Laura in the form of a Strong sense of responsibility for adulthood, haitened by Mary's and she was good a1 it. [n her later teens, sJie knitted svhite her family. I Ilt pa.SS.1ge to- the time she wrappetl la-ce stocking;! foT herselfand knitted and CiOCheted 'doz- blindness, was largely complete by

it to her sister. ens -of yards" of white thread lace edgings for "the open her lace In iLssue paper 5ind a for the ends of the pillo^s'cases. the throats and imsli Of thelllgh- [ used to think thal the liice was metaphor

It ^^as white, it neckcd-i long-sleeved nightgowns, the necks and armholes bliziardi of that I lard Winter— and was of the chemises, and the leg-bands of the drawers" of h^r cndlcis. Now 1 see Its gift StS 5i symbol of hope for Mary's thirteen, to trousseau [7?jeiit HN^Jpy G(>/i;fir’u yejirs|. education and of Laura’s commitmenl. at age

Ma had taught Laitra 10 knit in the Big Woods by .IgC help provide it for her. lour, but Sunday wtiS alWn'iy&ii day of rest: “Mary [ag<' sixj AirOL'T THE .-tUTlIOR .l^Miy LjvufJ if j CinmairiHt hM not on her nsne-pHltcll t;uilt, and l.aura could could sew at jjy- iriTTJ,|ii^ro-Vi^ fr^r.KJtfJTfs jmfif J^sry Jiirr iiitJr.d airavf not knit on the tiny miUensihe wy? making for Uaby Car- diUhd CitMiiTT'tV'^I'^ I’tic ''i^jitwjft.v" £^frrf ^inNIilr^ iflf

IN Arj'jifir, f.'iVjr7fT[lPinr. rie." l.ikeljt these mittens were Milk uttshaped garter-stitcll

Siiuarcs. which would be folded iiild sewn into bags; knit- ting and providing for others in one beginner project [irf- EOftTl-IKK Rj^rtJrtKG

fk ffouse fPJ tJte JSrj iVttthrfj], McClucL-.Wt-rnly. TJif HWri J'jfrr.lty.-td'iTTjfjitT# irJ it/f

ofLiltk HtWSf UrJ iitf PKiirk, NJ™Vcnk: l?,lvi;r]iclLi, 20 1 1 Ma also teught 1. aura's daughter, Rose Wilder l.ane 1

\V:IJtr, Liun rfjr .Si'wiiY'i t^.^iVJvr (^iJlv. IW'J. . 'Ifmc kcprinr. fl-rfJfrf' (WdmYf^n, I '54J. kL-Js-fiiH. illuiErafcJ W

illujrr.'ia^l 1'^'

. 1'J.^2. t'j^jrV r.'i iftf kcpniit, lUuslrtlnl tij,- WiUl^r. I-Jnr.l Iil|^.'i1]s, a.nj Kinic VVilJcr l.ane. "tirjiiiilp.ik

(niilt'Willi.im^^ N(’w Vijrk; ] l,ir|y-rOi.‘i|[iiiN. 2

. LirrJr Vi'ji'ir cjr li/r ^Vdi'rir. I'J-U. Ii.i;priiri, hv STiV-iVJ iraii^ T^finui^ffjrfirf. l.iiK'nln: Ujtivi,'T'ii(y nf

i »^r;lL VVi 1 liiiii»5 , \lvrk: Hlr]>crC(>lljrii, 2(K^H. kirtS, 0*11 lit prim.

. >)ji' MTNfff, l'J4ll ]i,tprint, lIUliLruu J In- {.iarth Zotlicrt,, [Jon.ild. |'.^ UJv i]f l( VWf7. 7^^.

^Lllinrii). I E.irpi'K lr.*.'priii1, rsL'wVnrJ;, Awm I^>T7.

Shell Lace lo Knil

D^liCdEif ^hull- noEifl^u

franv Ihe- Ht'ini'

York rrj&uric iwteKly^diiion, NDVcmbrr 11 ,

1-B-7?, ChOtSn by

^^nry (.yfiti for

thir lnc;c tlijbt

Ldur^a knillKd

for Mary i

piyiiitrcort’ ui ffit iong- lfWnra?j.

C.W'J.

54 vv r hirer op H I KC b h' 4; K K M .1 ^ A X rs I .*: II II iiry [.yean diirlfd [Ills edging from M atf.bi.xi.s the pal tern that jppea rtn.! leI (ItC November 12, M DMC Cordon net Specifll, coltan thread, or> ball, 1 b&H oi weekly e; wv.-vM,h.ryaliiy^nortbairierica.com outlines the sCjllupS. Tllis molif. A crisp Ik-aJed edge Sewing needle colcrf (for life- iise-: k nil purl, purl two Sewing thread, all-purpose in contrasting pattern a umal] vocabulary— » line^ togelhcr slip one, and ya mover, plus, the gathering- Tapestry oc;c<:Jl^: tor a sophislicaCed efFetl. Tlie curved shells soften the

Finished size: 1 rep mcasurcj ^bOot W inch {2 cm) lang shape, anJ the Vnndyke holes make an puiiily Vandyke and inch (2 cm) wirtt fiS = cm), air^‘ contrast Ih> the solid te:;ture of Itie shells. Gauge: Sts and rows 4 inches (10,2 blCNckedr gauge is nat critical lor this project

See page lor Abbreviations and Techniques IftS l‘KtCTIO>'S

Tlie cliart (or this project is available in POP formal at l foiintl that a doiilile sewing jVD[c5t Do use a lifeline. plec.ffiVQrkiTMgazine.com/Chs.rts-llIttslj'ations thread. Inserted on Row Id from the wrung side, wiltl th e sewing ncedk' left lianging and ready fur Its ne^t USC, was very lielpful when working at this icnidl a gattge. stitch EOVL-ral limes to tamp dosvn the passed si itches, $0

When workinj’ yarnoveft after a knil stitch and before a you have room lo svwk tllJII Stitch aften^'ards. With two purl fitilch, remember CO hifiltg I he yarn for heard one es- stilchcE remaining on the left ruwdle. work the yarnover,

Ira time tu gel ihe right rltimher of Lncreascs. ‘lliisOCCulS and purl Iwo together, wilh ihe first double yariio vers on Rows 1, S, 5, and 13. Isbell Lace

TIk yarjiovcr at the beginning of ea

hvith 16. On Ro'v 1 3. after working the fourth ptirl two together, length., ending Etow count to make sure there are tvu'dve si Itches remaining on K I now. IK? all sts pwise. Ihe left-hand needle. As yOEk pass stitches 2 through II 1-inishing over ihc first stitch, inscrl ™ur right needle into the first Weave in emds.

$hrll Slhch

kon R&; p on W5 o 7p 1 1 § % y V pen RS: kontvS * - - V o o y 0 0 Y 0 0 y o V o' T1 0 f I t p^iic wyb o| 1 V - ' * + + 0 ^1 " yo r o| Y 0 0 y O a o- V 0 4 o - i i- * r V KZioq on R5: pJloq onlVS o y O y o vj Y o q pilog pn IK; kZtog an WS 1 0 4- f- 0 Y 0 V 0 JT - * + + + p - i- pais its 2-11, one at a time, over the Ifi V V Q \y O Q SI an left needle, yo, pitog— 1 0 sts d«y

16- to Z2-SI rjp

CftON may ht; pkotofopied for pivsittml H4e.

srA.YM’usE zeu ei F-C K W 0 R K ss Susan B. Anthony

and a Letter aboiii Lace

SUSAN S 'I' R A N

IIU’N I'LESS ADVOCATE l=OR WOMAN'S RIGHTS, Tireleis speaker for wtnnCiA

to a reeenlly discovered k-llcr (see sidebar, page 59),. s.utrraj;c, l.aee entliiisiast? Accords nj^ R Susan Rrowidl Antimony’s {1820-1906) rcpulalitm for leaving no detail unalionded eiiteiided even to the 1-aee that she Kone.

Ubfa^yoT SuffrjgiiiSuiart B-Ainhor^y wMirtrKfhtnigMiuie lace colldJ add cytfi. PMograph by FranceitenJanii™>5*iti^t^Circa law. CangiF^i Fiancn Benjarpip Cnlltiiiart, Waihirigtcjn. &C. lLC"0SZ&2-83li5). ^ r'rjikvj FWri'i^Jujii fiJmiFitii iiiit/ ftw/iiffjy Li/'tfH' Cjw^n-:i4

If hi J.rj L's [ .2A I } F I L< E W cm I The lL‘[tcri dated Ap?il 7, iinJ her plan to remodel a cape that 'w-ill re-^

i^TiUen in has-ly curjivi? cm leUerllfud (Jiiiie ripping out the hock seam. Ratlr- from the OfliwofllKi Pieiidfnl of er than risk ruining Lite capCf she

the Hation^i AttiflifjCH'in Wyman has Inst rue fed Lhe dressmaker

Siiffrigc AMCNCinllion [NAW- to ptirchasc new lace to trim

JiA), is Ulltcl with emphit- it, .As fur the drcssmaker''s

Je LLEiLietLiiiiii^ clilJ inserled jsropt.isal to trim a dress with

unrdi thnil Suggeii a wom.- all-wFiite lianJherchicf lace

;t« wLch pr-L'Ssin^ concerns that Anthony considers “loo

>Litd Jeni Linds on her time. lender & broken to he used"

Rnlised Ln a Quaker famiJy. An- she proposes giving the lacc to thyny campaig^Lied intl^^2 had CO 'namesake Julia” (most likely Av-

.sjLcunt; for married women I he right ery's third daughter, named for her

ly retain their ohvji ainci guardian^ Sister lulia lAister). fihe regrets thnl Avtry ship of their children Jiad wofkL*d to abolish slav- apj^-arentJy has "ripped off" 1 he bbek lace tEiat was ery during the Civil War ([86l- 1865); had, with women "so line—so exquisite." ISceause both of her Silk hcofade

from nineteen sliatcs. fcnSKlded the Kational tVoman Suf- dr«MS have black lacc Oi'cr while, her new plain black frage Association in I86 Sk intending to add aeonstitutioH' ilresimust not look like them. In conclusion, Anthonv

a I amendmenl fii^'irtg women the right to wie; llild Seems Intent on passing reiponsllijlity to .Avery to have

been arrested in 18^71 for easting a vote illegnlly, (Tilled her own scamstresi carrj' out ,AAlhOcly’S instructions.

$10D. she refused to pay.) This co-ncern about her wardrobe- must have arisen

The rcicipient of Amhony's letter wms Rac]jel Toster by the prospect of Anlhoriyls sailing for lingland the fol-

As-ery (]8&lf-]9iy), corresponding secretary for KAWSA lowing month to lead the Unitctl States delegation to ihe

and A Stejdlasl advocate for sflimen's sulfragi'. Tlie two lOiV in Ijjndon, Scorned decodes earlier by reporters and

hHtd tnet at a suiTrage convention in JS79, flilcJ. now Antho- public alike-. .Anthony would soon enter Westminster Hall ny wait Susan" Co the "Aum much younger As'cry. When welcomed b}M SW r>f fluttering white handkerchiefs; tile"

RLidiel Toster left for Europe In 1885 to study abroadt Chaulau<^ua salute. Newspapers would now piaisc her

Anthony had 1 raveled wilh lierhtii SCawd in Great LlrifaLn feinininlty and intellect; lords and ladies would enier-

ly meet Liriliih feminists snd lay plans for 1 he first Ijiter- lain her.

uationalCouncil oF\'ifomen flCVV), much of which Av- Anlliony cons-idered dress reform essential for the ery would manage, work toward woman's rights and SUlTnage. .A few- v.-onicn

I [undreds of ihci letters tvritten between Anthony and hegari wTtaring bloomers—wide-legged Turkish trousers

her suffragist cotleflgues have s-un-ived,. including many covered by a shorter skirt and named fOf Us originator,

between Avery ittld Anthony. Although mcitua] jffec- Amelia itloomer (I818-18S4). Anthony held out until

lion is cvidenl ii|| in dieir correspondence^ the ktlcrs of late in tS52, when ihc also CWt her hair short, "t am in Anthony and AWry were ivritten piimarily lo plan iiieel- short skirts and tfOU^^ rs, and have spoken in Auhiim!"

ings and iruvel, share concerns about react to she 8- funJingn wmic to fellO'^' Suffragist Lucy Stone ( t S 1 1 8W). The new teclintdogy (the typewTiter! ), lament defeats in the response was ridtCule both in newspapers and in publlC- battle for women's suifrage^ and on occasion discuss what Her longtime Collfague iili^abcth Gady Si anion (IfElS- 10 wc-ar for photographs and public appearances. 'I he Id- L9fl2). reiponJed: *'lhe cup of ridicule is greater than y-uu

ler of April 7, IS^ta, is unusual in 1 hat it deals almost en- can be-a^, , , . It is not wiEe, Susan, to use up so mtich eri- tirely with Anthon/s lace-enibelhshed clothing. She frcis e^£y and feeling in that way. Vou can ptH theill to bet- about her dressmaker's resistance to using black lace and ter use. I speak from experience." Ahhougll AnLheiryfelt

Siifl.nn Antheny rtith ftiChclFnilM Avery, thHS '^&ijngtfiend Livitinm :fip wrattlbs lcueriba

ri w Irr h'£>H riLCK-WolE fMS c ^ 2 1 f. t ,t u.vi - - thil the nt'turn (y Kt-jvy liij'crs of pintiinoats and Ltin(j skirls airings ready to go f3es Moines - but won I the t*re*.

Eptlkd d(;ftal^ sUn etnUpHifd with Stanton's a-dvicf. livfii' Si Cor. Sec'y liwlt rather slunning?* She also takes excep- tually, she deLermirmi H5 toncentratc un one g.oaL alone; tion to the “rldicolotisly large'" sleeves in a pholograpli hmmen's suftVa^e. that Avery had iekcted to bc iitchided in a Susan IJ. An-

l^erhaps Anthemy's. irHC!r(St in fine lace and fashion thony biography. Avery a.vstired Anthony that she would eaied her re-adeijUion of (nulUional Vido-rian dress. En have aiioLlter phoU>graph taken. her memoir., Stanton recalls AillhOJiy's atlflnlimn to dress All her life^ Atlllsojiy was fastidious about her ap- when dicy iirs-t met at an abolidoni^t ^adtcring; "There pearance and aware of fasbionr Perhaps it was because

Shij stood with her good farneiC fate and geniaJ smile, she was not a conhdent Sinrnher despite her astounding drwsed in gray s-ilki hal and all the same sc from the with hlui? ribhoni, (he perfection of mviltWM ,and JSO- pain of public rejection for wearing the hlwnier. Photo- silhou- bri

Transcript oj Susan B. Anthony letter

OlTice Qf the President. ROtl Elii-tTH. H.Y., April 7, 1S99, wants to- base alt while lace Jie '"put h on - Darling Rachel,. in 9 verj' Ji Ifcront ^JIyb:

Ynui5N»f r "I lie eape is toQlostJy -ejuiuisite- and ‘ - - ] should fear all the time of making per{cm 9:| u'pnd ]$: kwely Si refreshing - EInve I wriiiim that itiydinHS maker a bre-jk in Jt Ihc handkerchief

cHi'L wisli IQ use inj hlack lace - border is beaitliiul - but tem tender ft hnikeii

- but weald like svry much to asv to-be used - It is just an helr-lnriin forlJie the two ends of the -cope - far m'jrfS - dear little n.?mi!sake Julia! E am sorry putting the rounikd cntks at the shoulders J.OU ripped cjITiIil' black lace - Mrs. iPullamlj oimI hring.ing the laeu dn^tvii to the waist said she never saw any so

tine ' ^be IwU iheni up Just as she weuld -so- tsiquIsLlc- You -seo bcilh of

lifei: louse - but alas it would require ray brocade silks have b]a-:k lacir ayia the ripping out of the back of sts cope - white - so- thi; new plaiei niUEt not - m-j- dear - with ^chkh she says will not hufl theeape a be I ike them So

particle - that the pan^ can he sewed together jgxt as much gratitude as my heap can

agitin Jind make ilie eape exactly as nice give- - EL Ls best to lake them all to you a.1 IslH]

os ever - hut I do nor like to- have her do i1. Lovingjy as cvf r

So . a-s sthu iigrtitigioNew Ybrk on Sunday- Susan C. AntKn>ny

- night 1 base told (herl get ^'rreiueh —Manuscripts, Box i. Archive* and RpeeiuE Collcctlors,

- it ivlib . lace as she wants to trim Dominican Univi;riitj't irauscrdbeJ by Steven Sieged i. - St then I shall hn^-e it tn have to you archivist, ITci^minican Dnli.'ersiiy, REver Foi-est, lllLnoks - - dress & iiU topglim r - You see it will - m;iLdn lOusc iheeape - he-ajuliful as it is

as a eape - because it wooild make my [[fiinmitig] ofthenew satin so nearly the same as that of the vdviet and xbu

rEFT: Recto side nf ibr kcKr atioui lace that Susan B, Am-hgciyvnatetd Rad^el Foster Avery in ManineriptS, EOk b Archhfes irtd ^p^!C•^l CoJIoclianL

CtonViftican University, ftwer FpnciV lllineiii.

HHSHr Veiso side of the letter ohoot laco that Susan B. Anihtsny wjoteto Rachel Foster Avciy in 1B9S.

i Archives and ^ptfCial Coliec(ion3> Manuscripts^ Soar ,

Oemlnk^n IJnisvrvily, River Forest, lllilKliS. iiHiiifif ^ f{\e juittfr. l-l^|[vg hcT trademark dt^$g irii^Ultnl an^d otlier sulTragists had long since dbjndi>ii«l(hc T4'Jlh bcc. With fciv' c»ct;|>1lons. ahnSIldoned il, having learned that

smrc: block. Mncmnn Hy1lc;i {ff«i- refwm. drc-.es rt^forin actually created hos-

Susdn Anthciny nlLl'ncd mlh NAWIiA ijjvilcd Ati- tilily Ih^ their eauie. It appears that ILaiKT^ dn th? Lliun]i' !' Utah and pror^cnlod Iicf dress reform for women fuliowed porch cilHir 'Vi'Lth 3 btick silk dresF, the ^Ib^tc nf rather Ih.sn Led improvements in hoM« DC IT

Mddiion 'Street in 'M'hielt had been hindwToven of silk women's rights.

HOCh«SE£r, ial die UcaK->^i]kinduELry'. {Av- Newspaper reports late in hci forswearing ifry SucectnJt'd in persu.adinj' her lo career refer lo .‘Anthony's feutinlne h^rcuMotwary h,ivs 4 velvet dre-Ei made for bldck drrsi jnd appearance. "Charmed by Miss An-

Idee collar. s^Kcl^] oceusioii$.) thony's Femininity and Ini el led''

PhoiogrjpJi by In of her fcrina] phulo- reads a headline by the London Frary;e-5 Brnjamln graphs. Anthony wen rs h'lee, most Correspondent of the f^fjjVntfe/pftj'dr Jo1ini.1an. 1-3M. often ai a riiftl^ at Ci>]lnr. Library lh^ fVws -tin ring the ICW. 'I'he people

crfCcmgiesi for her retL-rence to hatidkefcllief of England ”ficid it hard to believe Fr^Ci^ Dejipiriin lace, none of her tetters m^inlonlS ipr:ib'bin lac^:, es|?Li:iaLLv crossed the line into her f5(](h ye^ r." A reporter from St. i^ollecdoiK eulfs, Washlr^glorr, O.c;, for collars and had been mnd^ :^ince the sL;c(eenlh Louis in Ifl-flS comments on her atlire: "She wore "soft,

5 Z62 ' 37 liQ|. aCU century, -and b)' ]fi‘iO, machines that cemld rs'produce black silk net, -with its l rimming^ of ||Ulc. liunxnv satin

Jfiryv'jy^iprj tff rOuiit Inidiliunal hand made- lace pallerns niade]aci£! a^TDil- ribbons. About her wrials were the f^iur.i ^ii^mii’ii soflesi and tlaiiatiesL

J^*(\t\S\iwT JnJ ntble flikd alfordahle lo I rim Anthony's blai;k dre$S«S. uf white crepe lisse jsilk gauiej lulfl^s" ry \f\f [il her 1 ravels ihnou^hout the United States and £u- ESy lifEfS-, Anthony was deeply concerned obout find'

mjse, Anlhony always carried an alligator purse (see side- ing 'jtOunger women to carry on her work. In 190(1, she

bar, below) ftlkiil with .speecliLis and pamphlets, ainng nath ptesidcs! over her last N'AW'SA comenli-on. and Carrie a eiapy of the transcripl of her 1 S75 trial for voting "illc- Chapman Cm (lSW-19‘17) succeeded her as president.

gallyl" More lhan Jnsi a Kiie, Lite purse represented her Although it still bothered her that her cloth ing received

frustratinn at the l-sck of mon«y—and Lherefure po^ver— as much or more alien lion from journal ists ai her pol-

under the law for JiJneleertth-Cemurj' married ivcunen. itics. lace iiCCOtaipauied lier througlt these final appear-

earl-y as IE a As November 153 . diary entry reads, 'Wom- ancci. The journalist who chronicled her farctvel] speech

an must have a purse of her own, Sf. how ctm cliis be, sei concluded in admiral ion, ". . . |S]he raised her thin, white

long as I he wife is denied the righi to her hidividual and hand, with deElcate l.ace falling arotmd ilf joint earnings. Eleflections

like IheSe, Caused me to see B. friif! .^u-ouT I'HH. .4uThmn, Smaiv and really feel ibat there was Susan Anthony Siri\itTi 0 .dir iriiecrj/r pn^mv ai no 1 rti« fr^iAlynl for woman Jump-Rope Rhyme rivdiiJrJhfiin! E-'iIJiVrSrrjf Jr.i /Eiiicr without the posses-sion of A'‘Ilss Lulu had a baby, sltteaUed liiio linyllni. ro-rfti, Silinaii, .^if nen rJir iifJT all pul iittist jfui jtyi'jf for her prt^pcfty righlsJ" An- him in I he bathtub, to see ifhe eciukl swiiic r

He drank up all rhe watur! I'lirmiVdiT wirJiV 2iM.iS, Jiiiii'- jfjiMT thony's "pursu of her Own" ff« ate up all the soap! v*j I’ieeeWorJk J ofraitwE Fl-r tried to sivaElmylhcbaihiub, but -it w^.mldnt go down came lo symbolize ?1 wom- hi? thpoall! paiKi, ,tuif nLiHrjjhirjei iiitfiti ilriiiE an's right to hnanclal inde- Call fur iIh: dndor! JliirJrrii^ dritf/if fa I'Jji'' Jii.ijia.^'riur.

Call for nursel Iirre/ii'ranf j'^’ifiiLfid S\rf rirfo.j, pendence. ( Ihe aliigaiorhag the CaU for the lady wllh the alligginr puc?(! Kiiid oi' Vow-: A Ckxe Luoli ai may be seen at the ^usan h, "Mumps!" said the doclor. "Me-aslcsl" said iIk nurit. Curifui-!. IVrpIvsillg. lIlJ Anthony Museum House “VwelCsaid ili? laily with llw alligalor purse!! E^nni1:£e KniUett Ot^rEs. fcniii

in Rochester, Hew York.) |l|e hjit StWVtjrv, i>\ 20 f 1. .Stii: —A eh Lid r^n’? jump- rope rhyme rec-ordcJ by the At the time of the April .St-o^ri^f. iia'iah'sr ,ir press III California during oaeof 5usan B. Anthony's i A-nwiii-iEUj i .'^u'lh-ni'ij.; uitii dj.viqi.voi 7i lei ler, dress reform jtitfrage campaigns ii/iii Jniirviirvif K .'Lir.'rirviy^jr liad rinl its course. Anthony ^rrjiv .WA.tTjr Farr.

M- riECK WOIE j-i r-r Riii'Q R K M ^-c.?iij; t .vow 1 ABBREVIATIONS

hLi-jj — bt'^inninj; 4 od then the back of the same siltoh ipls)— -spacets) ltCJ“-bind off before slipping it ofFthe tefi'hand ssk— slip I knitwLse, slip 1 kttil'vise, knit 2 CC— COJll l''£L&t!llg. £4^[L'»r needle slippeJ siLtelies itgel her through Etck L~li fluha — \lll — (make ) lefOlift the running thread loops (decrease} i;ir— ^;]rCi;Bln.r behv-ieen the stitch nil u-orked and j th^ ^k— slip 3 stitches one at a tidne as If lo c-flbk- HLixIlc Cn— next stitch from fmnt to bi'iek. and knit knit, insert the point of the l<;ft needte tasi on CO— into the back ofthiii thread Into front ofsIijdpL-sl si itches, and knit Citnl Lng<;i{s): cont— CHjnl i nuing JVtJr— (maki* ] right) Lift the running the.-ur 3 stictiurs togetherlh rough Ihcir d«2i;(s) (.il)—ik'creiisL-Is); dccrc-ascdi; thread bel'reen the stitch just Vicyrked back loops ^ikcrtMsinj; and the nest stitch from back to front, ssp— slip L knit wise, slip L knlts\rise. pgr] (Jpn doublc-polntiid — and knit into 1 he fn^rtt of tJiis thread 2 slipped stitches togclher tliroiigh foil — fyl lowing p— purl back J[^g]ds (decrease) (U)' -in— stiichfe-s} bicrfasing p 5 tog— pur! 3 stitches together St St —stockinette stitch k knil — p4tog— purl "I stilclies logelher tbJ — through back ti'Mip kJb— kiiit I L» butk of stilch pStog— purl stiiches together tell — Lurcitog chain k] ffirh— koil into the front and back of' p7tog— purl 7 stitches together Uig— [rtgvi her Uk; -^ iimi" — stitch incrcasK^ii ]iat 1 — patternfs) wrong side k 2 b knit 2 in bock of nciit 1 — pm— place marker W7b—with trarji in hack kvfiic— knilwiflti; ;is if to koil prev — prevLfOjs wyf— witli yarn in fiiml k 2 tog— k:ii| 2 i(qicbf5 together psso — pass sJipp^il stitch over yo —-yarii niver k.lio^-’kidt 3 -stiteh-Li together 2 p SiJO- pass 2 slipped stitches over yo twice— bring yarn fonvard, wrap it k^tog knit !j ititckn together — pwisc — purth^ise; as iftn purl counterclockwise arouiid the I'ighc tp(s)— loopts.) rent— rental n (s); rejinaEf gng needle, and bring it forw-iird again tnfs)-— isiJfker(sji repfs)— rcpt-jHi repeating to make (wi.» ^vraps Hinound the right \"]C— ]ii3iai color ret' Si reverse stockinette stitch si— (p needle , M I “-make one (i ncrease) riglit-sidc roivsi k hvmng-sidi' lOws) ' — repeal starting point

M Ik— increase ] bv knluiny into ibe rnd(s) rounJfji) ) — ( —alternate rneasmecitenls and/or rmnt and tliernhe bnek ot'the same RS— riglit si(E(? InstriiCEiorrs siiicb before slipping il off the left- s-k— skiji- ]— wchrk instriiclions a I hraeketed hand needle s!— slip speeifletl number of times Mlp — increase J by pLirling into the front si St —slip(ped) stitch

I E c: I [ N I Q U E S Invisible (PmvisioiKi]) Qist-On Long-T:ii] C^i^t-Qii

Also called the eoiilinentnl nnethfid. this casl-Ort CfCJlLS a iirin. ulnstLc Plicv a IfHJFe slipknot on itLedk- edge Minis nppnciprrate foi most projects, '[his jiwtlud is w-cuked with held inyaar tight hand, ftnld .'Y'/ one needle and two ends gf yarn, and iE jJnoe^iiititches on Ihe right nee- wa.'ttL' ytLtat ncx 1 tn ittiplciLgt and dle. 'IlierLsuhicigLilge is stiuMiih on otK side (the side facing you as yuu LJttmnd left Ihiimh; hold W\jrk- ' work) and kncilled 4 jr humpy on tfie Olhet (the Side facLilg away fium Lnj; yam gvfi (iiiyL-j-. left IndfK ^ Yi jxni ns y-Hiu work). Mwt knitters choose to deSigiiiiEL' ihu smnciEh .tide ai 'llrlng needle forward under I the '-righr side. WJSie >-arn,HW'L'rwTfiTkirig yarn, grab a loop of weirkinj; ynrn (I'igurc j>, I.eavidga Iona lail, make n. slipknot ^ncL pf.;ice Oil needle held iiL jsnir lliuih hriitg to the front, cwvr butli yanttv nnd grab n second loop right Ikjjid. Place thumb and index finger of your left hand hetuuen (I'igure 3 ). Repeal front VVliCii yuu'ie ready work in the opposite iJu; ynio enrlsso tha1 the working yarn is Jiouud yvnir iniles: l^ng^‘T and direellon. pick oiul wasw ynrn yorptHe li^'c slltclies, Ihe tail is around your tlLumb, sucuro the -gnds with your other three Kitclicncr Stitch fingers, and twist ynjur wrist mi thait j-wr pains faces upwards, nsskiiaga V eifyiam amundyoui thiimband Jndes finger (higufe I). 'BTLiig jwedCe

(Grafting) gplhnmigh loop on thumb f Figure 2), grab theftrsl .slTaiulanrnnd lndc!t

finger with needle, arid go Isiek dnwii i hnnigh hsopon thtmnb ( Figure J). Step 1 : brJ:ig ElLrencli!i:l neciiLle Ehroagh I'lrop loop ull'tlmmh and, placing Ihgnib back 111 llie V' COJtfiguratiun, trmti Niitiih. nx if tcN pgri and leave stLLch lighELiL rrsuliiug StLich rm 4^11 iieiLfl Ic. needle (Figure -t). Repeal fruni

^i<:p 2: llring thrrjdcd iiLedlu through hack stLk'li as if itt knit n.nd le.we Stitch on Jteedir.

liriiig thiaiuled needle througlt fiiit frrjiit stLich 1% if tci knit and . sli]> Ibis stitch off needle, bricig Eltreadcd nettle I h rough nex.t froru hi itch ns If to purl and Icav? si itch nn needle.

Step ‘J: blins llareatU'd needle ihrough first back iticeii us if m pitri (n? Ji illuslraled), dip Eh is ?ti1ch OlT. tJiMg ilCedle ihn^ugh ncjit hack Slltch as ''I i if N) knit, 1 leave 1 his Stitch on jilcJIc. I

Repeat Steps 3 and -3 uriEil ntt.iiitche.s nemain on needier. Figure I figured Figure 5 Figured

i!.! P'jrcrWonE P 1 1- 4; I ^ o K K .M at: A.ZI S' t. COM