FIVE PRAGUE WALKS 2

Off the Beaten Path to Places Known and Unknown Contents The best way to discover Prague is on foot.

This simple truth is an easily proven fact. Many of the most beautiful sights in the historical centre are only accessible by foot – however, you often find yourself in the company From Bubeneč to Troja ...... 2 of thousands of other visitors. This is particularly true along An Idyllic Tree-Lined Stroll Among Villas the Royal Route, the former route of coronation processions Holešovice 12 connecting the Powder Tower, Old Town Square, Charles A District Reborn: From Graffiti to Industrial Bridge, and Prague Castle.

From Vinohrady to Žižkov and Back Again . . . 22 Searching for Bohemian Prague But there are hundreds of other interesting places in Prague. Leave the crowds behind – come and discover some of the lesser-known From Holešovice to Old Town ...... 32 sights, whether you‘re here for the first time or the tenth. Head Back in Time to a Secret Garden In this, the second in our series of walks, you‘ll discover the charms Střešovice and Dejvice ...... 44 of districts such as Holešovice, Střešovice, Bubeneč, and Žižkov. From Dreamy Villas to Socialist Skyscrapers Each has its unique character, history, architecture, and atmosphere. We‘ll help make the choice of where to go a bit easier by giving you a brief description of each route at the beginning of each chapter and of course some photos.

All of our walks have the following things in common:

1 Our main goal is to introduce you to beautiful, interesting places. In these five walks, we emphasize primarily architecture, as well as fine art to a certain extent – from historical to the latest contemporary works.

2 The routes featured in this brochure avoid busy tourist sites entirely. Our mission is to show you the less well-known, but all the more interesting side of our city.

3 The routes are not necessarily designed to be educational, but rather simply lovely walks. Descriptions of historically interesting sites and buildings are deliberately brief, but if you‘re interested in more detailed information about a particular place, we recommend you read more on our website w www.prague.eu.

4 Each route has its own map. In addition to orientation points, notable buildings, and scenic views, we‘ve also marked places where you can get something good to eat and drink. A proper walk stimulates the appetite!

a And finally, just one recommendation: be sure to wear good Front cover: walking shoes and charge your camera or phone before walking Václav Špála Villa, pg. 47 out the door. We guarantee you’ll find something picture-worthy along the way. Ponds in Stromovka Park, pg. 9

1

6km

From A romantic walk that takes you from the immediate vicinity of Prague Castle to the Bubeneč district, a charming, peaceful neighbourhood full of stylish Bubeneč villas and manicured gardens that are today home to embassies and diplomatic residences. You’ll find ornate Art Nouveau villas with folklore motifs, to Troja grandiose Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance mansions, as well as the lovely Governor‘s Summer Palace overlooking Stromovka Park, the oldest and most extensive park in Prague. In the park, you can stroll past ponds or take a break under An Idyllic Tree-Lined Stroll century-old oaks; then cross just two pedestrian Among Villas bridges, and you‘ll find yourself in the lush green neighbourhood of Troja, where you have a choice of visiting the Botanical Garden, the Zoo, or taking a tour of the Baroque Troja Chateau.

2 FROM BUBENEČ TO TROJA FROM BUBENEČ TO TROJA 3 Slavíčkova St. 5 Jan Koula Villa 6 Sucharda Family Villa Route Description 7 Karel Mašek Villa Suchardova St. 8 Sucharda Studio Villa

5 Jan Koula Villa In a sea of beautiful houses, two adjacent villas – at numbers 15 and 17 – stand out. The villa of builder Jan 1 Chotkovy sady/Gardens k c Koula combines Historicism with elements of folk architecture. 2 Bílkova vila (Bílek Villa) The villa and studio of renowned Czech Art Nouveau sculptor František Bílek were built according to his own designs in the early 20th century. The façade symbolizes Jan Koula Villa a wheat field and expresses the connection between natural and artistic creation. Inside the villa, you can visit an exhibition featuring the studio’s original furnishings and a selection of Bílek‘s Symbolist works.

Bílek Villa

Mickiewiczova St.

3 Písecká brána/Gate This gate is part of the former Baroque city fortifications known as the Marian Wall; today it serves as a gallery and café. What’s interesting is that most of the build- ings in this area were built between 1910 and 19145 as a “garden city” right on the former bastions of these Baroque fortifications.

Charlotte G. Masaryk Park K Brusce St Milady Horákové St. Muchova St. Pelléova St.

4 Villa Pellé This Neo-Renaissance building dates to the Bubeneč is at its most late 19th century. Its most famous occupant was French General charming in April and May, Maurice César Joseph Pellé, who was integral to the formation of when the trees in the local the modern Czechoslovak Army (he scrapped the army’s volunteer gardens are blooming. The character and created a regular army with a firm military order.). Stromovka park is as The villa now serves as a cultural and social centre for exhibitions, perfect a picnic spot as concerts, and seminars. any you’ll find in Prague.

4 FROM BUBENEČ TO TROJA FROM BUBENEČ TO TROJA 5 6 Sucharda Family Villa The second villa – whose facade is Pelléova St. decorated with figural frescoes by noted Czech painter Mikoláš Aleš 10 Lanna Villa This Neo-Renaissance villa, with many spectacu- – was the home of the Sucharda family of visual artists. lar elements, was one of the first built in this area back in 1872 as a summer home for renowned industrialist and art collector Vojtěch 7 Karel Mašek Villa Across the street at No. 7 stands the villa Lanna. The villa sits along the path that Prague’s elite used to reach of Art Nouveau artist and architect Karel Mašek. It‘s stylistically their favourite area – the Royal Game Preserve (today Stromovka). similar to that of Jan Koula, but even more ornate. Of special signifi- Nowadays, the premises are used by the Academy of Sciences of cance are the painting and modelling of the columns. the Czech Republic.

Na Seníku St. V Sadech St.

11 Julius Petschek Villa V Sadech St. leads around the rear of a magnificent villa, until recently quite dilapidated, built by Otto Petschek’s uncle, Julius. The villa is an example of the Eclectic style with elements of late Classicism, Baroque, and Neo-Renaissance. It is currently undergoing renovation, after which it will serve as the home of the Museum of Czech Literature. Its elegant spaces will house an extensive exhibition of Czech literature, an events hall, a literary café, study rooms, and professional offices.

Wolkerova St.

12 Na Slamníku Pub The establishment of this pub, located at the intersection of Wolkerova and Gotthardská Streets, was docu- mented as far back as the 17th century and has traditionally served as a public house since that time. The restaurant has successfully maintained its typical pub character despite having been renovated in early 2017. It’s one of the longest continuously operating pubs in Prague, with local regulars still outnumbering the tourists. During Karel Vítězslav Mašek Villa the Communist era, “Slamník” was a popular cultural centre for the alternative music scene.

In the early 19th century, one of the local tenants at “Slamník” 8 Sucharda Studio Villa The villa and studio of sculptor became so unpopular with the respectable public that he was Stanislav Sucharda (No. 6) are the work of the founder of Czech stripped of his lease and exiled from Bubeneč. Modernism in architecture Jan Kotěra and is his only villa preserved in its original condition. It was here that Sucharda created the monu- ment to historian František Palacký situated at Palackého Square. c Wolkerova St. Pod Kaštany Square

13 Continuing straight to the end of c Na Zátorce St. Jaselská St Československé armády St. Friedrich Petschek Villa Pod Kaštany Square on the right-hand side, you‘ll find the formal Bubenečská St. Ronalda Reagana St. entrance to yet another Petschek villa - today the Embassy of the 9 Otto Petschek Villa The grand entrance is a gate to an Russian Federation. The villa, designed in French Baroque style, extensive garden surrounding a luxury First Republic (pre-war) villa, is once again by Max Spielmann, the Petschek family architect. designed for Otto Petschek by architect Max Spielmann. Thanks The huge complex spreads out over one hectare and includes to the business acumen of the Petscheks, a Jewish family originally a garden with pond. The historic building is used for formal from the town of Pečky, they became one of the leading European embassy functions. entrepreneurial and banking dynasties in the 19th century; their philanthropic activities were also notable. The villa was excep- 14 Neo-Gothic Gate and Governor’s Summer Palace tional for its time in size (an incredible 148 rooms) and its modern (Místodržitelský letohrádek) An impressive, romantic man- facilities (including a fitness room and underground pool in the style sion towers behind the Neo-Gothic entrance gate at the upper end of Roman baths). Since the end of the Second World War, of Stromovka. The yellow façade, in English Gothic Revival style, the villa has been the property of the United States and serves dates back to the early 19th century, after the game park opened to as the American ambassador’s residence. the public in 1804. The building‘s history, however, extends back to

6 FROM BUBENEČ TO TROJA FROM BUBENEČ TO TROJA 7 the 15th century; originally a hunting redoubt, it was gradually trans- 17 Rudolf’s Water Tunnel (Rudolfova štola) Water was formed into its current form, and only the prismatic tower remained. shunted to it via the nearly 1,100 m long underground tunnel, The building is unfortunately inaccessible; its terrace, however, is a unique technical monument. worth a look – from it, you get a beautiful view of Stromovka, Troja, and the Vltava River valley. 18 Šlechta Restaurant The original 17th-century Baroque summer palace was a formal mansion and even witnessed the imperial coronation celebration of Emperor Franz I. A restaurant has operated in the unique historical space since the 1920s. The last tenant was Václav Šlechta, who ran the eponymous res- taurant until World War II began. After the war, the restaurant was nationalized, and in the 1960s, nearly in ruins, it was closed for good. This popular destination is now under renovation.

19 Fishponds A kind of “island” was created in the middle of the original “Rudolfine” lake, which later became the only reminder of this former large body of water. Today it’s called Oak Knoll, and thanks to the new lake that was built in 2016, its banks are once again largely surrounded by water.

Governor’s Summer Palace

In the right-hand corner of the terrace, you‘ll find a unique sundial in the shape of a globe with a moving metal pointer. A red marble surface is marked with the tropic lines and times. To determine the current time, the arrow must be aimed at the sun, and the pointer then moved so that it casts the smallest shadow (the same height as the pointer).

Mecseryho silnice/Road Oak Knoll in Stromovka 15 Former tram depot From 1898 to 1937, a small electric tram depot operated at the Royal Game Preserve. Part of the building‘s walls was preserved during a modern renovation into the Vozovna The Royal Game Preserve was closed to the public until the early Stromovka restaurant. 19th century – commoners were allowed to enter only on Easter. This changed in 1804 with an imperial decree by Franz I, which opened the preserve to the public. 16 Stromovka 17 Rudolf’s Water Tunnel (Rudolfova štola) 18 Šlechta Restaurant 19 fishponds Za Elektrárnou St. footbridge to Císařský ostrov (Imperial 16 Stromovka The Royal Game Preserve (now Stromovka) was Island) Troja footbridge Povltavská St. U Trojského zámku St. founded by Czech King Přemysl Otakar II in the 13th century as 20 Zoologická zahrada (Zoo) j a fenced hunting preserve. The complex has undergone many p If you’ve got enough energy and want to extend your walk, we changes over the centuries, the most significant of which took place recommend visiting the Zoo, Troja Chateau, or the Botanical in the 16th century, when Rudolf II ordered the preserve as well as Gardens. Both the Zoo and the Botanical Gardens are located on the now-non-existent lake to be enlarged. hills which offer impressive views of the city.

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Graffiti by MODE 2 at Vltavská metro station, pg. 15

6km

This route is ideal for those who‘d rather be enchanted by the raw charm of a modern city and the poetry of old industrial complexes. The walk takes you through one of the most exciting and rapidly developing Prague districts, where there‘s always something happening. Holešovice was a former centre of manufacturing and business, and some of its distinctive factory Holešovice complexes from the early 20th century remain. The factories no longer serve their original purpose and have been modernized and renovated, finding new lives as apartments, offices, and studios for young artists, designers, and architects. Come see what a former A District Reborn: brewery, steam mill, or slaughterhouse look like today. From Graffiti to Industrial Stroll through a district that offers delightful surprises with its plethora of quirky cafés, alternative galleries, and shops – an area where creativity and innovation await you around every corner.

12 HOLEŠOVICE HOLEŠOVICE 13 Route Description Bubenská St. 6 Vltavská metro station For most, this is a neglected metro station with a bad reputation, but for fans of street art, it’s a required stop. The walls here have come under the hands of 1 Veletržní palác k Heřmanova St. world-renowned graffiti artists, including a series of realistic draw- 2 Řezáčovo náměstí/Square This small square squeezed ings from everyday life created by European street art legend MODE between residential buildings is not only an excellent place to rest 2. In 2015, the Berlin delegation DIAMONDS Crew sparked contro- for a bit, but it‘s also a place where all kinds of festivals and markets versy when they decorated the extensive outdoor spaces take place. You’ll find numerous pop-up stores with contemporary with intentionally „ugly“ graffiti in reaction to the commercialism design, as well as sustainable and slow fashion. If you‘re longing and over-saturation that reign now even in street art. They were the for some coffee with a dash of boho atmosphere, stop by Kavárna first to use only chrome and black paints to symbolize the particular Liberál. place and atmosphere that prevails there.

Farského St. Bubenské nábřeží/Riverbank

3 Husův sbor (Hus Congregational House) This impos- 7 Pražská tržnice (Prague Marketplace) For nearly 100 ing seven-story apartment building was completed in 1937, ten years, this large complex with Art Nouveau and Neo-Renaissance long years after its cornerstone was placed, for the Czechoslovak elements functioned as a slaughterhouse. Today it’s the home of Hussite Church. In addition to its unmistakable tower with chalice the largest produce market in Prague, an Asian market, as well as and Byzantine cross, there’s a marble-lined chapel and one countless other shops. You can shop at the open-air market stalls of the largest columbariums (vaults for cinerary urns) in Europe, or inside the vast halls. The halls are home to such businesses spread over two underground floors. as the Asian fusion restaurant SaSaZu, the Trafo Gallery featuring modern art, and the Jatka78 theatre and art space, focusing on circus and new theatre. 4 Strossmayerovo náměstí/Square 5 Bubenská 1

4 Strossmayerovo náměstí/Square A busy transportation Komunardů St. Tusarova St. Argentinská St. node whose east side is dominated by the pseudo-Gothic Church of St. Anthony of Padua dating back to the early 20th century. 8 ArtGen is the first office-gallery complex in Prague. Its modern A unique nativity scene is stored here, with the figures dressed architecture makes for an interesting backdrop to themed exhibi- in native costumes of various Slavic nationalities. tions, which are held not only in the open space between the Art and Gen buildings but also in their interiors. ArtGen has created a unique space that serves both work and leisure purposes.

ArtGen © www.artgen.cz

Strossmayerovo náměstí/Square

5 Bubenská 1 The former seat of Elektrické podniky hl. m. Prahy (City of Prague Electric Works) is one of the most significant and spectacular Functionalist buildings in Prague. In the early 1900s, it was the largest office building in the city. Now you’ll find here The Chemistry Gallery; Forbidden Spot, a gallery of street art and showroom of the Life is Porno brand; the Prague by Yemi dance academy; and more.

14 HOLEŠOVICE HOLEŠOVICE 15 Tusarova St. Tovární St. Osadní St. Dělnická St Komunardů Komunardů St. U Průhonu St. St. U Průhonu St. Osadní St. Poupětova St. 10 Holešovický měšťanský pivovar (Holešovice Town 9 DOX Dox Contemporary Art Centre focuses on art projects Brewery) A late 19th century brewery that at the time of its found- that include critical reflections on current social topics. Thanks to ing led to the ruin of many smaller breweries. Many Praguers have its independence and program based on international cooperation, tasted the local beer, as it was brewed here under the “Měšťan” DOX has become a vital pioneering force on the Czech cultural brand until 1998. Today the brewery premises serve as an office scene. The building itself is the result of rebuilding an old factory complex. It was declared a cultural monument for its exceptional and is an example of cutting-edge contemporary architecture. architecture combining Romanticism with Renaissance and Gothic Worthy of particular attention is the 42-meter long wooden rooftop elements, as well as its high level of technical execution. construction – the Gulliver airship – which functions as a venue for literary events. Holešovice Town Brewery DOX © René Volfík

Na Maninách St. U Uranie St. U Parního mlýna St. Jankovcova St.

11 Classic 7 The Classic 7 project is another great example of sensitive transformation of a historical building into a modern office complex. Dominating this extensive complex is a former steam mill from 1911 – the first automated flour mill in Prague, it was capable of grinding 200 tons of grain daily. During the recon- struction, architects successfully combined industrial architecture of the early 20th century with elements of modern architecture, creating an impressive, timeless space.

Jankovcova St. V Přístavu St.

12 Holešovice Docks, Prague Marina The Holešovice docks, an important technical monument as well as the only port in Prague which connects boat transport with rail and road, has definitely seen better days, but remains worthy of a visit. The original buildings at the dock are in Art Nouveau style, softening Holešovice’s industrial feel. The atmosphere is enhanced by the contrast between the poetically rusting boats and the modern Prague Marina luxury apartment complex.

16 HOLEŠOVICE HOLEŠOVICE 17 Holešovice Docks

Jankovcova St. Přívozní St. 14 Ortenovo náměstí/Square k

13 Ogilvy & Mather Just as with Classic 7, the advertising p At the intersection of Jankovcova and Plynární streets, agency’s home combines history with fresh design. Originally you’ll find the legendary Cross Club with a café. the Prague Bakery and Soda Water Company building, it became the home of the largest Czech advertising agency in 2003. In 2012, 15 Cross Club is a salute to Holešovice’s industrial character. it got a fresh face resembling battleship camouflage. Because the Steampunk aesthetic, steel, and moving bolts, screws, and wheels building is located close to the docks, it took its creative inspiration form not only the essence of the outdoor space, but also that of the from the local nautical history. cellar interiors of the renowned music club.

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Žižkov is one of the most iconic Prague Vinohrady neighbourhoods outside of the historical centre. In the past, its mostly working-class population, lively pubs and cabarets, and hilly terrain under Vítkov to Žižkov Hill together cast an irresistible spell under which many an aspiring artist fell. Žižkov was home to two famous Jaroslavs – Hašek, author of the world- famous humorous novel The Fateful Adventures of and Back the Good Soldier Švejk During the World War, and Seifert, a poet who is the sole Czech Nobel laureate for literature. Today Zižkov is undergoing rapid changes, Again but its heart remains purely bohemian. The walk will take you first to the Vinohrady district, which gets its name from real vineyards that were laid out on the hillsides here during the Middle Ages. Today you’ll find beautifully decorated buildings alongside severe Searching for Modernism in surprising colours and shapes, and in Bohemian Prague Žižkov interesting sculptures. This winding route takes you through the streets of Žižkov leading to the TV transmission tower. Rest and refresh yourself at one of the many local pubs that the district is known for.

22 FROM VINOHRADY TO ŽIŽKOV AND BACK AGAIN FROM VINOHRADY TO ŽIŽKOV AND BACK AGAIN 23 named. It was created by one of the most renowned Czech sculp- Route Description tors – Josef Václav Myslbek, creator of, among others, the statue of St. Wenceslas on Wenceslas Square. This park, over 100 years old, offers intimate nooks, open meadows, and unusual views of 1 Náměstí Míru k y 2 Church of St. Ludmila 3 Vinohrady Prague’s skyline. A large garden restaurant is open here during the Theatre summer. From the top of the meadow at the west end of the park, you’ll find a gorgeous view of Old Town and Prague Castle; in the 1 Náměstí Míru There’s no doubt that náměstí Míru (Peace summer, it’s an ideal place for a picnic. Square) is the heart of Vinohrady. 2 Church of St. Ludmila At its centre stands the Church of St. Ludmila, whose 60m high towers dominate the area. 3 Vinohrady Theatre In stark con- Prague Castle view from trast to its severe Neo-Gothic lines, the Vinohrady Theatre, to the left Riegrovy sady of the church, catches the eye with its swirling Art Nouveau lines.

Church of St. Ludmila

Italská St. 7 náměstí Winstona Churchilla (Winston Churchill Square) At first glance, this not-particularly interesting square appears to be a busy Žižkov space, thanks primarily to the students Anglická St. Balbínova St. 4 Český rozhlas (Czech Radio streaming through from the nearby Economics University. Along its Building) Na Smetance St. 5 Na Smetance School right side stands the Functionalist General Pension Institute. In the 4 Český rozhlas (Czech Radio Building) The Functionalist upper part of the park stands a larger-than-life-sized monument to Czech Radio building plays an irreplaceable role in Prague’s history. the celebrated British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, an exact Broadcasting began here in 1933. Inside the building is a unique replica of the London original by British sculptor Ivor Roberts-Jones. paternoster lift, installed in 1929, the oldest functional open com- partment lift in the Czech Republic. The statue of Churchill was dedicated on Nov. 17, 1999 on the tenth anniversary of the Velvet Revolution with Margaret On May 5, 1945, a call to protect Prague from Nazis was heard Thatcher in attendance. on the radio’s airwaves, kicking off the Prague Uprising.

8 5 Na Smetance School At the entrance to Balbínova Street Seifertova St. Husinecká St. Kostnické náměstí/Square stands one of the most beautiful (and, at the time it was built Seifertova St. is the main artery of Prague’s Žižkov district. It is in the late 19th century, one of the most modern) school buildings named after Jaroslav Seifert, outstanding Czech poet and Nobel in Prague. The Na Smetance school operated for nearly 130 years laureate. He not only lived here, but also studied at the nearby and was admired even by Emperor Franz Josef I. grammar school.

Na Smetance St. Husinecká St. along with its surroundings is a memorable, yet 6 Riegrovy sady/Gardens Climb the stairs to the statue of slightly dark place in Žižkov. During the Middle Ages, it was here on 19th century Czech politician František Ladislav Rieger, after whom Gallows Hill, just a short distance from the city walls, that the gal- this popular park at the border between Vinohrady and Žižkov is lows were erected and executions took place.

24 FROM VINOHRADY TO ŽIŽKOV AND BACK AGAIN FROM VINOHRADY TO ŽIŽKOV AND BACK AGAIN 25 8 Kostnické náměstí/Square is probably the most pictur- esque square in Žižkov. It gets its name from the German city of Kostnice (Konstanz), where the church council met in 1415 and sentenced Czech church reformer Jan Hus to death by burning. The name is a reminder of the connection between the Žižkov district and the Hussite events of the 15th century.

Above the old-world atmosphere of the square and the surrounding lanes looms Vítkov Hill and the monument there, dominated by a gigantic bronze equestrian statue of Hussite leader Jan Žižka of Trocnov. This colossus weights 16.5 tons.

Štítného St.

9 Žižkov Theatre of Jára Cimrman The Žižkov Theatre occupies an unassuming building at number 520. It has a varied past. The building has been used as a theatre, a chapel, and a Havlíčkovo náměstí/Square renowned dance hall. For many seasons now, however, a theatre with Žižkov Town Hall group performs here, dedicated to spreading the word of fictitious Czech Renaissance man and unrecognized genius Jára Cimrman.

Lipanská St. Bořivojova St. Čajkovského St. Cimburkova St. 13 Sladkovského náměstí/Square The Church of St. Prokop 10 Prokopovo náměstí/Square This square, shaped like a dominates this picturesque square at the foot of “upper Žižkov” and, small triangle, is the ideal spot for small markets. In the middle is a along with the nearby Lipanská tram stop, forms one of a number monument to Jaroslav Hašek, the brilliant Czech writer and author of Žižkov’s focal points. The Neo-Gothic church was built of the multi-volume novel The Fateful Adventures of the Good at the turn of the 20th century. Soldier Švejk During the World War who lived part of his life in the vicinity. Sculptor Karel Nepraš conceived the work as an unusual equestrian bust. Vlkova St. Víta Nejedlého St. Fibichova St. 14 International Telephone Exchange Building The inter- Prokopova St. national – originally intercity – telephone and telegraph exchange is one of the most interesting buildings in Žižkov; it was built just after 11 Betlémská kaple na Žižkově (Bethlehem Chapel in 1921. Its two towers and other decorative elements are typical of Žižkov) is an unassuming, yet extremely interesting building hid- Czech national Decorativism. den in the courtyard of a gallery apartment building. Its design, by Emil Králíček, was inspired by Cubist shapes. 15 Žižkov Television Transmitter and the Old Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov Prokopova St. 15 Žižkov Television Transmitter A triple tower resembling 12 Havlíčkovo náměstí/Square, with its lovely park and a spaceship ready for launch is an unmistakable dominant feature flower beds, is graced in the middle with a statue of Karel Havlíček of the Prague skyline. In addition to technical equipment, the trans- Borovský, Czech satirist, poet, and journalist. mitter tower also houses a luxury single suite hotel, a restaurant with bar and café, and an observation deck with an amazing view of The corner building, in fine Historicist style, is the district town hall. Prague. The transmitter’s columns are adorned with bizarre figures Serving as the local administrative centre, it features an exhibition of babies by sculptor David Černý. space and small inner courtyard with sculptural decorations. Old Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov Directly under the tower, Václav Havel got married twice at the Žižkov Town Hall. the Mahler Gardens hide their secrets. At one time, a Jewish ceme- The world-renowned Czech playwright, dissident, and later tery was located here, parts of which are still clearly visible. The Czechoslovak and Czech president, married Olga Šplíchalová, old Jewish cemetery in Žižkov was originally part of a plague burial who lived nearby, here. After he was widowed, he once again ground of the Prague Ghetto, but over time it transformed into went to the Žižkov Town Hall to wed actress Dagmar Veškrnová. a proper cemetery which served the community for over a century.

26 FROM VINOHRADY TO ŽIŽKOV AND BACK AGAIN FROM VINOHRADY TO ŽIŽKOV AND BACK AGAIN 27 Žižkov Television Transmitter and Pospíšilova St. Old Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov 16 Škroupovo náměstí/Square You might find it hard to believe, but this square measures 150 m (492 ft) in diameter. It entered the Prague history books as the site of the events of the first authorized dissident demonstration in December 1988. Václav Havel gave his first public political speech here, demanding the release of political prisoners.

Zvonařova St. Slavíkova St.

17 Švehlova kolej (Švehla Dormitory) The imposing Švehla Dormitory building is evidence of Žižkov’s rich student life. The dormitory, built shortly after the founding of the republic in national Art Deco style with elements of Rondo-Cubism, was an important centre of cultural and social life. The dormitory now belongs to Charles University.

18 náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad (King George of Poděbrady Square) ky 18 Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad (King George of Poděbrady Square) Arriving on the square, your eyes will be immediately drawn to the unusual monumental architecture of the Church of the Most Sacred Heart by Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik, who was also the creative force behind the modern recon- struction of Prague Castle. The church, whose shape is meant to evoke that of Noah’s ark, is the most important modern religious building in Prague. The square is a frequent venue for a popular farmers’ market as well as other culinary and cultural events.

King George of Poděbrady Square with Church of the Most Sacred Heart

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4

From 4 km

The walk creates both a literal and imaginary bridge Holešovice between two worlds that, while different, still have much in common. It connects two very different Prague districts and two iconic buildings of Prague’s to National Gallery: the Functionalist Trade Fair Palace (Veletržní palác), with the modern art collection, and the ancient Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia, in Old Town which the medieval art collection is displayed. From Holešovice, your route takes you through Letná Park to the Metronome, a modern dominant of the left bank of the Vltava and across the bridge to the northernmost end of Old Town. Wind your way through the tiny lanes Head Back in Time of this part of the city, which most visitors haven’t to a Secret Garden discovered yet and which will envelop you in the authentic atmosphere of old Prague. Your destination is the newly renovated and recently opened convent gardens and the convent itself.

32 FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN 33 Route Description Heřmanova St. Františka Křížka St. 2 Bio Oko A popular single-screen art cinema that dates back to 1940. The cinema’s main floor is occupied with a motley crew k Veletržní palác (Trade Fair Palace) of seats: sun loungers, beanbags, an auto body, and more, the com- 1 Veletržní palác (Trade Fair Palace) – National position of which was created by renowned Czech designer Maxim Gallery in Prague The first Functionalist building in Prague, Velčovský. The bar and café are popular meeting spots. originally intended for trade fairs, was built in 1928 and was at the time the largest building of its type in the world – even Le Corbusier Milady Horákové St. was an admirer. The National Gallery acquired the building in 1976. After an extensive renovation that finished in the 1990s, the build- 3 Letenské náměstí/Square Worth noting along the right ing became the home of a unique collection of Czech and foreign side of the square is the Neo-Renaissance Letná Water Tower modern and contemporary art. The collection contains works by and a gigantic Functionalist apartment block, nicknamed Molochov. some of the most illustrious names in art – Pablo Picasso, Auguste On the left side, note the imposing structure that is the Ministry Renoir, Vincent van Gogh, and Gustav Klimt among others. of the Interior. The gallery’s monumental interior, reminiscent of multiple decks of an ocean liner, is itself worth a look. Nad Štolou St. Letohradská St. Muzejní St. 4 National Technical Museum and National Trade Fair Palace Agriculture Museum These monumental Functionalist struc- © National Gallery in Prague tures were built together between 1938 and 1942. The original concept comprised one monumental common building, but it ran up against construction regulations and in particular gradually progressing disagreements between the two institutions relating to space and organizational issues. In the end, two separate buildings were built, separated by Muzejni Street. The main entrances of both institutions face Letná Park – from this view, the buildings’ identical appearances are apparent.

The design for the separate buildings included a huge stone gate arched over Muzejní Street which would at least symboli- cally refer to the original concept of a single building. However, because of the disagreements, the gate never came to be.

Kostelní St.

5 Letenský zámeček (Letná Chateau) built in the style of Italian Renaissance villas, now functions as a restaurant. From 1891 to 1916, the upper station of the Letná funicular, which ran here from the river, stood not far from here. Connected to the funicular was the station for the first electric tram in Prague, which was built on the occasion of the Provincial Jubilee Exhibition in 1891 by Czech inven- tor and pioneer of electrification, František Křižík; he then operated it as a private entrepreneur until 1900. Today in front of the chateau, you’ll find a very popular beer garden with an incredible view of the city centre and the Vltava River.

Letná Park

6 Metronome The gigantic Metronome occupies a symbolic spot on the map of Prague. It was directly on this spot that a gigantic monument to Joseph Stalin overlooked the city. It was demolished by dynamite in 1962, many years after his death. The

34 FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN 35 seven-ton Metronome was installed in 1991 and was meant to be a symbol of the new era. The area surrounding it is now a paradise for skateboarders.

Metronom

Church of Sts. Simon and Jude

Another building on the riverfront is the Na Františku city hospital. It was founded here around 1360 and has been in continuous oper- ation since that time. It’s one of the oldest medical facilities in central Europe.

down to nábřeží E. Beneše Riverbank Čechův Bridge Dvořákovo nábřeží/Riverbank Kozí St. “Kozí plácek” (“Goat Green”) 10 U Obecního dvora St. 11 Ve Stínadlech Lane 7 Intercontinental and President Hotels Both hotels are examples of the local variety of Brutalist architecture. The 10 U Obecního dvora St. Over the course of its existence, the Intercontinental’s Presidential Suite, measuring 154 sqm, with a Obecní dvůr (Municipal Yard) has served a number of functions, panoramic view and own sauna, used to be by far the most luxurious primarily business-related. The first recorded use was to stable place to stay in Prague. The most famous person to grace it with their horses and carriages, and later served as a royal firehouse. The presence was Michael Jackson during the 1990s. From the suite, House of the Censors (No. 798/5) was the actual location of the he had a perfect view of the larger-than-life-sized statue of himself censors’ offices in the 19th century. House no. 799/7 was occupied which was temporarily installed on the Metronome’s pedestal. by the famous dynasty of Czech painters, the Mánes family. Antonín Mánes, founder of the Czech landscape school, had his studio in the next-door House of the Censors. Dušní St. 8 Church of Sts. Simon and Jude 9 U Milosrdných St. 11 Ve Stínadlech Lane On the right, directly across from the 8 The Church of Sts. Simon and Jude is proud of its rich Municipal Yard, walk through Ve Stínadlech Lane. Its modern name musical tradition, including visits by another two musical celebri- refers to the title of a novel by Jaroslav Foglar, popular Czech author ties – Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Joseph Haydn. The church of children’s adventure books, who set many of his stories in this has remained true to its musical roots and is today used as neighbourhood of mysterious old houses and shadowy nooks. a concert venue. Haštalské náměstí (Haštal Square) 12 Church of St. Haštal 9 U Milosrdných St. leads around the oldest wing of the hos- 13 school and rectory 14 ossuary 15 old hospital pital and monastery of the Brothers of Charity, who have run the hospital since 1620. In 1847, the first operation performed under 12 The Church of St. Haštal (Castulus), founded in the late anesthesia in the entire Austro-Hungarian Empire took place here. 12th century, is the only church dedicated to this saint in the country.

36 FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN 37 If you like pretty things, be sure to visit the QUBUS design shop tucked away in Rámová Street. It is known both for its own product range and for showcasing the work of preëminent Czech designers.

Ve Stínadlech Lane, former school and rectory at Haštal Square

13 School and rectory Since its founding, it also had a school and a rectory with a garden, surrounded by massive walls – today Řásnovka St. the building is used by various religious groups and organizations. 16 Řásnovka St. was originally named Schneck Street, after 14 Ossuary There used to be a cemetery around the church, the manufacturer of popular playing cards. As the word Schneck its presence marked by a cross in thew mosaic pavement; even is German for snail, irreverent Praguers kept referring to this street today the former ossuary with a painted tombstone on the wall still using various words for snails and slugs, until officials intervened stands. and gave it its final official name, after the lord of Řásnov, owner of one of the buildings. In the olden days, the lane was also called 15 Old hospital At the corner of Řásnovka Street stands an un- At the Kings of the Cesspits, referring to the modest dwellings of usual rounded corner building – the former hospital of the Knights poor labourers, knackers (those authorized to remove and dispose of the Cross with the Red Star, the only originally Bohemian order of carcasses), and even executioners who lived here. and the only men’s order founded by a woman, princess Agnes of Bohemia. The original building was demolished in 1965 and Klášterská St. replaced with a new building that stands on the original hospital foundations and copies its ground plan. 17 Ministry of Industry and Trade The impressive minis- try building, by architect Josef Fanta, was finished in 1934 with a This entire area was a neighbourhood of the poorest Praguers, record-high budget. It’s no wonder: the building’s façade alone fea- full of narrow streets with crooked houses and appalling sani- tures over 120 sculptures, plus a large number of other decorative tary conditions. Most of this district was demolished during the elements that emphasize the overall imposing design. urban redevelopment that took place in the late 19th century.

38 FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN 39 Ministry of Industry and Trade Building and Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia

The most distinctive feature of this grand structure is its rooftop glass dome. Its beauty is best appreciated after sunset – it remains illuminated through the night.

the Přemyslid princess St. Agnes (1211–1282). During her lifetime, she built an extensive and artistically richly decorated convent with One of Josef Fanta’s other memorable designs was for the a royal burial ground, her own tomb, and several churches. When entrance hall and beautiful Art Nouveau café at Prague’s Main the convent was closed at the end of the 18th century, it was already Train Station. threatened with demolition because of its severely dilapidated condition. Thankfully this never took place. On the contrary – it was declared a national cultural monument and underwent gradual Na Františku St. 18 Zahrada za svatyněmi (Garden Behind the renovation during the 20th century. In the 1980s, the complex was Churches) 19 Zahrada při severní bráně (North Gate Garden) 20 opened to the public and adapted to house the National Gallery’s Klášter sv. Anežky České (Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia) collection of medieval art (highly recommended – this unique exhi- 18 Zahrada za svatyněmi (Garden Behind the bition is often unjustly overlooked, probably due to its location off Churches) The gardens of the St. Agnes Convent underwent an the beaten tourist path). extensive renovation in 2016. The Garden Behind the Churches is now accessible via two new garden gates; and 19 Zahrada při p Visitors can stroll through the gardens and take a self-guided severní bráně (North Gate Garden) through a large Baroque tour of the ground floor of the convent free of charge. There’s gate from the riverbank side. The formerly inaccessible gardens are also a version of the tour for kids. now home to two dozen works of contemporary sculpture by leading Czech artists. p Although the convent gardens are open year-round, they may close in inclement weather. Should the complex not be accessi- 20 Klášter sv. Anežky České (Convent of St. Agnes ble via the garden gates, head from Na Františku St. to Kozí St. of Bohemia) The convent, one of the oldest and most important and U Milosrdných St. – the narrow Agnes St. then leads to the Gothic buildings in Prague, bears the name of its founder, main entrance to the complex.

40 FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN FROM HOLEŠOVICE TO OLD TOWN 41 4

Trade Fair Palace

National Technical Museum, National 1 Agriculture Museum 3

Letná Chateau 2

Metronome

Ministry of Industry and Trade

Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia 4

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Náměstí Republiky Jaroslav Vondrák Villa, p. 48

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6km

An extraordinary experience full of contrasts awaits you. Střešovice and Dejvice both feature some captivating architecture, especially if you’re fond of imaginative 20th century buildings. Many artists Střešovice settled in the Střešovice villa district. Painters and sculptors had their studios here, but even wealthy businessmen built their family homes here. and Dejvice The peaceful atmosphere of the leafy residential district can be felt to this day. Dejvice, on the other hand, is completely different. It was established in the capital of the new Czechoslovak state as a luxury residential district based on a comprehensive modern From Dreamy Villas to urban plan. Monumental buildings went up around Socialist Skyscrapers the central Vítězné náměstí (Victory Square), most of which still stand today. The Dejvice area has always been rather prominent; today it’s also known as a centre of student life.

44 STŘEŠOVICE AND DEJVICE STŘEŠOVICE AND DEJVICE 45 Route Description Church of St. Norbert

1 Ořechovka k stairs to Villa Müller

2 Villa Müller No fan of modern architecture should miss Villa Müller, an iconic work by architect Adolf Loos from 1928 – 1930. At first glance, the villa intrigues with its severe exterior that con- ceals a fascinating, complex interior space. Inside, individual floors and spaces flow into one another in the dynamic spirit of Loos’ “Raumplan” philosophy. Loos created a unique, luxurious, and time- less home which you can tour, including its original furnishings and equipment. a Tours of the villa are available only with a guide and by prior reserva- tion at www.mullerovavila.cz

Villa Müller © City of Prague Museum

4 Sokol building on the left side of Sibeliova St. is a former centre of social life.

5 Functionalist Evangelical church is situated at náměstí Před Bateriemi/Square.

p If you continue straight up U Páté baterie St., you’ll come to another interesting building – Villa Rothmayer.

6 Villa Rothmayer The two-story villa of renowned Czech architect Otto Rothmayer and his wife Božena, a textile artist and designer, is an example of finely detailed architecture inspired by cubes and cylinders.

náměstí Před Bateriemi U Šesté baterie St. Pod Bateriemi St. Nad Hradním vodojemem St.

7 Střešovice belfry Next to the steps leading to Střešovice St. Nad Hradním vodojemem St. Pod Kostelem St. stands the Střešovice belfry, built at the end of the 19th century, Sibeliova St. a remnant of old Střešovice. 3 Church of St. Norbert Overlooking Sibeliova St. is the Střešovická St. Na Pěkné vyhlídce St. Na Dračkách St. Church of St. Norbert, a Neo-Romanesque three-aisled basilica from the late 19th century. During this time, the district of Střešovice 8 Václav Špála Villa About halfway down Na Dračkách St., became independent from the Strahov Premonstratensians; at number 5, noted Czech painter and graphic artist Václav Špála however, the church retained its link to the founder of the built a villa and studio. The house was designed by architect Otakar Premonstratensian order and church patron, St. Norbert. Novotný, who specialized in red-brick, Dutch-type architecture.

46 STŘEŠOVICE AND DEJVICE STŘEŠOVICE AND DEJVICE 47 Lomená Street

Pod Vyhlídkou St. Cukrovarnická St. Lomená St. Na nizable because of its use of the contrasting forms of cylinders and Ořechovce St. cubes. Vondrák designed a number of other buildings in Ořechovka, including the nearby Central Building and the Ořechovka cinema. 9 Bohumil Kafka Villa The walled villa of Bohumil Kafka, one of the most important Czech sculptors, is of special interest for its glass extension, where the artist had his studio. Architect

Pavel Janák used austere red brick for the exterior, which he Na Ořechovce St. enlivened with decorative lintels, cornices, and small geometric 11 Ústřední budova Ořechovka (Ořechovka Central elements. Building) The Ořechovka neighbourhood was planned as a homogenous residential area in the style of an English “garden Západní St. city”. The focal point of the central square was a building by the aforementioned architect Vondrák that housed the shopping and 10 Jaroslav Vondrák Villa Architect Jaroslav Vondrák designed social facilities for the area. It included a large theatre and dance and built his own villa, which dominates the western side of hall, cinema, restaurants and a café. The building, in dire need of Macharovo Square, in the national Rondo-Cubist style, typical for renovation, is notable for its Art Nouveau and Cubist-influenced Czechoslovak architecture of the 1920s. The style is easily recog- architecture.

48 STŘEŠOVICE AND DEJVICE STŘEŠOVICE AND DEJVICE 49 Spojená St. Patočkova St. Pevnostní St. Pod Hradbami St.

12 Dělostřelecká St. and Klidná St. together create a small 15 Traub Villa The villa of industrialist Edmund Traub is a rare neighbourhood of standardized houses built in Rondo-Cubist style. example of German Modernism in Prague – its foundation is a This “national style” replaced the sharp edges of Cubism after the reinforced concrete structure and the villa itself features interesting foundation of the new Czechoslovak republic. Its roundness and stone siding. It was completed in 1929. colours call to mind traditional Slavic motifs.

Dělostřelecká St. Dělostřelecká St. Špálova St. Na Ořechovce St. 16 Villa at Dělostřelecká St. No. 1 At one time, the villa at 13 U Laboratoře St. The complex of buildings that you’ll find on this address was the most important in Prague – President Václav U Laboratoře St. is the former Sugar Research Institute, built in 1920 Havel lived here with his first wife Olga from 1995. The second First in the most fashionable style of the time, Art Deco. It’s now the seat Lady, Dagmar Havlová, also lived in the “presidential villa” for a while. of the Czech Academy of Sciences Institute of Physics.

Pod Hradbami St. Svatovítská St. Cukrovarnická St. 17 Vítězné náměstí/Square The focal point of Dejvice, 14 Muzeum městské hromadné dopravy (Public Vítězné Square has always been known by its nickname – Kulaťák Transport Museum) You’ll find some truly unique items on dis- (“Roundie”) – but its official name has changed many times. The play at the Public Transport Museum. The oldest tram vehicle here is square, designed by Antonín Engel, was not built entirely to plan, but a horse-drawn tram. Many of the exhibits are connected with the bril- even so, it has a monumental effect. Some of the buildings belong liant Czech inventor and pioneer of electrification František Křižík. to the military staff of the Czech Army, including a monument to the Czechoslovak soldiers of World War II. Space was reserved on the square for the campus of the Czech Technical University, whose gradual construction took place after 1960. The last building, however, was completed only recently.

The library’s interior is worth a look, with an added bonus in the form of National Technical Library a café. Stop here for a cup of quality coffee, great local beer, and a snack or light lunch.

50 STŘEŠOVICE AND DEJVICE STŘEŠOVICE AND DEJVICE 51 Originally, the tower’s tip was crowned by the Communist symbol – a five-pointed star made of ruby glass. An ingenious telescoping mechanism enabled the top part of the tower to be lowered inside and the star to be cleaned discreetly – usually at night, so its absence woudn’t prompt speculations. Later on, the red star was replaced by a green one. These days, however, the tower’s tip is left unadorned.

Hotel International © Libor Sváček

Zikova St. Flemingovo náměstí (Fleming Square) Nikoly Tesly St.

18 Kostel sv. Vojtěcha (Church of St. Adalbert) in Dejvice 20 Nikola Tesla monument The post-modern bronze monu- is a focal point of an extensive complex that is the seat of the ment to Nikola Tesla is a tribute to this genius scientist, physicist, Charles University Catholic Theological Faculty. The main entrance and inventor who studied in Prague for one semester. The statue to a spacious three-aisled basilica with a distinctive dome and two portrays an electrical discharge. towers is located on Kolejní Street. The church’s space served in the past as a recording studio as well as a meeting hall for political Jugoslávských partyzánů St. Zelená k discussions. After the Velvet Revolution, the building was returned to the church and serves its original purpose once again. 21 The hotel International is a building on a grand scale, the likes of which are found nowhere else in the country. It was built in the 1950s in Soviet Social Realist style. The construction of the Studentská St. hotel was closely connected with the ruling Communist party and 19 Národní technická knihovna (National Technical the former military leaders. It was originally intended to serve as Library) is one of the newest buildings in Prague. It was built as a private luxury hotel for Soviet advisors and prominent military part of the Czech Technical University campus and has a number officers. During its construction, it was determined that neither of special features. A group of young architects headed by Roman the army nor the delegations would ever use so much accom- Brychta designed a building shaped like a rounded square measur- modation space, and the building became “just” a luxury hotel. ing 70 x 70 meters, with surroundings adapted for study as well as Despite its clear references to its Moscow influence, the central relaxation. The modern, playful interior is decorated with hundreds tower is also reminiscent of the style’s original inspiration, of comics-style drawings by Romanian artist Dan Perjovschi. the American skyscraper.

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U o u t lk 4 no u ě ár d ct n dO A N Na d Title: Five Prague Walks 2 Text: Prague City Tourism Photography: Prague City Tourism, Richard Horák, Eva Neuman Maps: © IPR Praha Design and Layout: Touch Branding s.r.o. Print: All 365 a.s. Prague, 7/2017 1st edition Not for Sale

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