PERMIRA’S VALENTINO MAJORITY/2 DE BEERS GOES E-TAIL/12 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • June 4, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Now, Voyager Ready, set, go. Doo-Ri Chung was struck by a bit of wanderlust this resort season. “I see all my pieces worn with suitcases in hand,” she said. “There’s a real travel feeling.” And clothes like her stylish cotton trench for Doo.Ri would have delighted both Bette Davis and Claude Rains. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

The Bidding for Barneys: 2 Mideast Equity Firms Said Driving Up the Price By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — The bidding war for Barneys New York could come down to who blinks first. Two Middle Eastern investment entities are said to be in keen competition to buy the designer retailer — one, the Qatar Investment Authority, and the other, Istithmar from Dubai. And while no deal is certain, the winner would end up paying a steep price: Financial and industry sources said the amount discussed is higher than the $1 billion to $1.2 billion that Barneys’ owner Jones Apparel Group is said to be seeking. Several believe the bidding See Mideast, Page 5 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 WWD.COM Permira Eyes Remainder of Valentino By Luisa Zargani percent stake at the most. while Valentino reported sales WWDMONDAY Late last month, Permira took of 239.5 million euros, or $369.6 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear MILAN — Permira plans to control of 29.6 percent of VFG million, last year. launch a bid for control of all of for 782.6 million euros, or $1.06 Permira may also ask Matteo FASHION Valentino Fashion Group after billion. At the offer price, the Marzotto, president of Valentino Flowing draped shapes with distinctive details are an important part of the Italian equity fund increased fund, which manages a capital SpA, to stay on. Marzotto, the 6 the resort equation, showing up in a wide variety of collections. its stake in VFG to 53.6 percent. of more than 21 billion euros, or family’s most public fi gure, sold If successful, the acquisition will $27.3 billion, will have to shell his shares to Permira through cost the fund about $3.5 billion. out an additional 1.82 billion one of the family’s fi nancial ve- GENERAL Permira reached a deal euros, or $2.36 billion, for a total hicles, International Capital The bidding war for Barneys New York is nearing completion and the top Friday with the Marzotto fam- of 2.6 billion euros, or $3.5 bil- Growth, last month. He is also 1 contenders both are said to be Middle Eastern conglomerates. ily to take control of a further 24 lion, to buy all of VFG. Permira considered to be a valuable liai- percent stake of VFG, bringing will rely on financing from son with Valentino himself. In a continuing effort to modernize, Payless ShoeSource has set its third the private equity fund’s holding Citigroup, Bayerische Hypo- und The designer, who is busy 3 designer collaboration, with Alice + Olivia designer Stacey Bendet. to 53.6 percent. Vereinsbank and Mediobanca. preparing the Rome-based cel- Jones Apparel Group has promoted Susan Rieland, president of casual The new Red & Black Lux For the first time, Permira ebrations that will mark the 45th 3 design, to chief merchandising offi cer of bridge and lifestyle brands. Sarl company controlled by outlined why it wanted to acquire anniversary of his brand next Permira inked an agreement VFG, explaining in the statement month, has thus far declined to EYE: Even the long Memorial Day weekend seemed like insuffi cient with Paolo Marzotto’s PFC Srl Friday that it believes the group, comment on the sale of the com- 4 downtime once the social season began anew on Tuesday evening. and Veninvest fi nancial vehicles “relying on a stable of brands pany that bears his name. This U.S. textile and apparel producers, as well as department stores, cut to buy 10.83 percent of VFG and that are well-known around the is the fourth change in owner- 20 payrolls in May, but 157,000 new jobs were added across the economy. with Gaetano, Stefano, Nicolo world, is one of the main play- ship. Valentino sold his business and Luca Marzotto’s Tidus vehi- ers with the most potential in the to the now-defunct Holding di cle for 12.4 percent of the group. luxury goods world.” In addition, Partecipazioni Industriali in Classifi ed Advertisements...... 21-23 The purchases were made at 35 the statement underscored the 1998, for $300 million. Textile and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. euros, or $47.60, at current ex- skills of the group’s management, clothing manufacturer Marzotto change, a share. “which will allow to reach ambi- bought the designer company [email protected], using the individual’s name.

The fund had secured a re- tious development goals and to in 2002 for $210 million, includ- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ciprocal exclusivity agreement express an organic growth in all ing Valentino’s net debt of $179.2 ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. with the Marzotto family, which countries of the world.” million. In 2005, Marzotto spun VOLUME 193, NO. 118. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one expired Friday. The latter statement con- off Valentino, a controlling stake additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Permira now will launch a fi rmed a WWD report that there in Hugo Boss and other clothing Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by cascading bid for outstanding were not expected to be any assets into the new Valentino Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive shares of the group, which in- major changes in VFG’s man- Fashion Group, listing it on the Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail cludes a stake in the German agement following a Permira Milan Stock Exchange. Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return Hugo Boss AG, listed on the acquisition. Stefano Sassi, who The future of Antonio Favrin, undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: Frankfurt Stock Exchange, at was chief executive offi cer of the chairman of VFG, who owns a SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE the average price of the shares textile group and sister compa- 20 percent stake in the group INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit over the past three months. The ny Marzotto SpA, was appointed through his financial vehicle www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new offer is expected to be launched ceo of VFG and its subsidiary Canova, remains uncertain. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, by July and be concluded by fashion house Valentino SpA in However, he is said to be es- please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other September. The Marzottos will December. Bruno Sälzer is ceo tranged from the Marzottos as he Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list remain minority shareholders in of Hugo Boss, which accounts teamed up with rival bidder, pri- available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Red & Black Topco Sarl, a new for the bulk of the group’s sales. vate equity fund Carlyle Group, 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Luxembourg-based company VFG owns 50.9 percent of Hugo in an attempt to take control of OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, controlled by Permira, with a 25 Boss, a $1.8 billion business, the group and oust the family. BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

Wal-Mart Cuts Boost Shares MONDAY: New York Resort Apparel Market (through June 15). By Katherine Bowers weren’t always easy for Mother cludes: improved store standards, [Helen Walton] and Dad [founder clarity in the home department TUESDAY: World Perfumery Congress, Cannes, France FAYETTEVILLE, Ark. — Wal-Mart Sam Walton]. But those bumps merchandise, more depth of as- (through Saturday). Stores Inc. got Wall Street’s at- shouldn’t take away our focus sortment in apparel and schedul- Guess Inc. reports first-quarter sales and earnings. tention by touting less as more. on improving life for customers ing of cashiers to coincide with The world’s largest retailer around the world and shouldn’t times of heavy customer traffi c. WEDNESDAY: G-III Apparel Group and Gottschalks Inc. once reveled in opening stores as distract us,” he said. Stores that have had the new report first-quarter sales and earnings. fast as it could. But the company Wal-Mart also is repurchas- scheduling procedure have re- has scaled down plans to open ing as much as $15 billion in ported comp-sales gains that are THURSDAY: Major U.S. retailers report May same-store new U.S. Supercenters this year as stock in another effort to boost “twice as strong” as stores without sales. it intensifi es the focus on boosting earnings per share, which have the scheduling system, he said. Quiksilver Inc. reports second-quarter sales and profi ts from about 3,500 existing been disappointing as the stock Long lines at checkout have been earnings. U.S. units and trims capital spend- price dropped more than 25 a major customer complaint. ing that has grown an average of percent since Scott took over in Chief merchant John Fleming FRIDAY: Designers & Agents, Los Angeles (through 19 percent for the last decade, out- 2000. The buyback will be partly acknowledged that apparel Sunday). stripping the average 14 percent fi nanced with money from re- lacked depth in key items, need- Los Angeles Apparel Market (through June 12). sales gains for the time period. duced capital expenditures. ed better editing of what is pre- Brighte Cos., Los Angeles (through June 11). Investors liked what they Wal-Mart is cutting back to 190 sented and required investment The U.S. Commerce Department releases the April heard at the annual sharehold- to 200 new Supercenters from the in deeper assortments of items foreign trade report. ers meeting on Friday, pushing planned 265 to 270, chief fi nancial that have universal appeal. Kellwood Co. reports first-quarter sales and earn- up the stock $1.87, or 3.9 per- offi cer Tom Schoewe said. The Wal-Mart’s opponents, in- COMING THIS WEEK ings. cent, to close at $49.47. company will open an average of cluding unions and groups, such The decision to slow growth, 170 a year going forward. Capital as Wake Up Wal-Mart, that are SATURDAY: Atlanta Apparel & Accessories Market extending a strategy announced spending is projected to drop to critical of the company, are not (through June 12). last year, is a blunt acknowl- $15.5 billion this year from the succeeding, Scott said, adding edgement that the $345 billion previous estimate of $17 billion. that “our reputation is improv- retailer is maturing and is en- “We need to see Wal-Mart’s ing in the U.S.” tering a new phase in its 45-year U.S. returns improve, and we The company, responding to history. Wal-Mart stumbled with took an important step today,” allegations by fi red marketing lagging apparel sales, a stagnant Schoewe said. offi cer Julie Roehm, said Scott In Brief stock price, a slim 1.79 percent Scott reiterated that the man- had not violated Wal-Mart ethics gain last year in operating in- tra of everyday low prices remains policies. “Lee undernegotiates, come from the fl agship U.S. di- the company’s core strategy. overpays and leaves money on ● SNEAKERS AND THE CITY: Twenty 3-by-5-foot running shoe vision and other problems as it “Our customer knows Wal- the table,” said executive vice statues will be on the sidewalks of Manhattan beginning today, tried to move upscale and mold Mart is the price leader and Wal- president Thomas Hyde. “He coinciding with 2007 Blue Planet Run. Heatherette, the New a more stylish image to compete Mart will stay the price leader. knows he lives in a fi shbowl.” York Giants, Courteney Cox, Rosie O’Donnell and Rachael Ray, with Target and other rivals. Period,” Scott said during a pre- Scott, answering a question among others, designed sneakers on behalf of one of the 20 in- Board chairman Rob Walton sentation at the 18,000-seat Bud on the role of new board member ternational Blue Planet Run athletes. They are running a com- told shareholders that president Walton Arena on the campus of Allen Questrom, the former ceo of bined 15,000 miles through 16 countries in less than 100 days and chief executive offi cer H. the University of Arkansas here. J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and Barneys to raise money and awareness for safe drinking water projects Lee Scott has the “absolute con- Scott pledged to do better in New York, said Questrom “is around the world to reflect the runners’ commitment to this fi dence’’ of the board and of the the face of same-store sales in the going to be an adviser, not just in global cause. The giant sneakers will be displayed around New Walton family. U.S. division that twice in the last the U.S., but around the world.” York, from Times Square to the New York Stock Exchange to “It hasn’t been an easy year 12 months fell below Wall Street He said senior managers need Chelsea Piers. this year, but, believe me, things expectations. The agenda in- advice and are ready to accept it. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 3 WWD.COM Estée Lauder Said Payless Teams With Alice + Olivia Mulling Murad Deal By Molly Prior ANOTHER NICHE, DERMATOLOGICAL BRAND MAY HAVE FOUND a new home. Talk surfaced Friday that the Estée Lauder Cos. is considering an acquisition of Murad Inc., the eponymous skin care brand founded in 1989 by El Segundo, Calif.-based dermatologist Howard Murad. An Estée Lauder Cos. spokeswoman declined to comment on the transaction, but at least one industry source believes a letter of intent might have already been signed. Large beauty fi rms’ interest in clinical skin care brands, many of which are sold outside the department store realm, have perco- lated over the last several years. For instance, L’Oréal purchased the professional treatment brand SkinCeuticals two years ago, and in January, Procter & Gamble charged into the dermatologist skin care business by acquiring Doctor’s Howard Murad Dermatologic Formula from a private eq- uity fund for an estimated $50 million to By Caroline Tell fl ip-fl ops and ballet slippers to match her ready- more than $90 million. to-wear collection. Murad, which includes skin care prod- s part of its ongoing effort to offer designer “Our customer is cool,” said Bendet. “She’ll ucts and dietary supplements, is sold Astyles at affordable prices, footwear retailer buy a $600 beaded dress and wear it with fl ip- via infomercial, on the Internet and in Payless ShoeSource has set its fl ops that create a unique look. spas and specialty stores, including Ulta, third collaboration, this time For next spring, we’re doing Sephora and select Bath & Body Works. with Stacey Bendet of Alice + Stacey a funky, late-Sixties, early- Industry sources estimate that it generates Olivia. Bendet Seventies look with bell-bot- $100 million in manufacturer sales, with The collection, Alice + toms, high-waisted pants, tu- the Internet accounting for approximately Olivia for Payless, will hit nics and fun dresses. It will be $20 million to $30 million of sales. stores in spring 2008 and will great to tie in shoes in some Murad, should it be acquired by Lauder, be available in 400 Payless great colors and cool patent would mark the beauty fi rm’s third clini- stores and on its Web site, as leathers.” cal skin care brand. Lauder’s portfolio well as in Alice + Olivia bou- The designer said she’ll includes Clinique, which was created in tiques. eventually design shoes for her PHOTO BY PATRICK MCMULLAN/PMC PATRICK PHOTO BY 1968 as a dermatologist brand, and Rodan “Stacey is an amazing talent own label, most likely for the + Fields, which the fi rm ac- and representative of modern fall 2008 season. quired in 2003. The brand eclectic thinking and design, “Shoes have been on the — created by Stanford and we are lucky to be able to horizon for a little while,” said BEAUTY BEAT University-trained derma- platform her talent and cre- Bendet. “We’ve been trying to tologists and frontwomen of ativity for our customers,” said decide the direction to go. But Proactiv Solution, Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields — generated sales Payless ShoeSource president I thought this is a neat thing to of $3.7 million in department stores last year, according to The NPD and chief executive officer do and I love the direction that Group. As a point of comparison, Clinique reaped $1.2 billion dur- Matt Rubel. Payless is going in.” ing the same period. Several analysts speculated that, given Rodan “We have two amazing de- In celebration of the partner- + Fields challenges and Clinique’s reliance on department stores, signers we work with who are ship, Bendet will stage a fashion Murad would complement the Lauder portfolio by giving it a foothold different and complementary, in the active cosmetics segment — a business that L’Oréal has focused but we wanted our customer on growing in recent years — and alternative retail channels. to respond to another fashion idea of fl irty and A.G. Edwards & Sons analyst Jason M. Gere said a dermatologist contemporary that we felt Stacey was doing with Shoes have been on the or doctor brand would be a nice “fi ll in” to Lauder’s current portfolio, her line,” he added. “So we looked around for “ particularly given the plethora of young, niche skin care brands in that type of look and saw her as the most talent- horizon for a little while. the space that are increasingly grabbing consumers’ attention. In a ed person connecting to that.” ” research report Tuesday, Gere wrote, “Considering that Estée Lauder Bendet joins Lela Rose and Abaeté designer — Stacey Bendet, Alice + Olivia and Clinique brands have slowing sales growth and past acquisitions Laura Poretzky in the program, which is a key such as MAC and Bobbi Brown have worked out very well, we wouldn’t strategy aimed at democratizing fashion and de- show on June 30 at Alice + Olivia’s new store in be surprised to see [Lauder] add to the portfolio over the next 12 to sign in the accessories business. Southampton, N.Y. Other retail locations include 18 months, if it wants to ensure it can deliver toward the high end of 6 “We are not about being exclusive,” said Midtown and downtown Manhattan and one in percent to 8 percent organic sales growth longer-term.” Rubel. “We are about being inclusive and elevat- Los Angeles. A Malibu, Calif., outpost is slated to ing and celebrating ideas, and making them ac- open next year. cessible through great pricing and easy access In addition to shoes, Bendet plans to design in store locations. We want to take great design sunglasses under her own label and may even and bring it to every customer.” join forces with Payless again on a headband Rieland Tapped to Succeed Alice + Olivia for Payless will retail for $20 to collection. $30. Bendet hasn’t begun designing yet, but fore- “Shades and shoes are my favorites,” she Mendelson at Jones Apparel sees a mix of brightly colored platform sandals, said. NEW YORK — Susan Rieland, Mark’s old job, and more about president of casual design at Jones recognizing what Susie has been Apparel Group, has been promot- doing all along.” Investment Group Buys Everlast for $146M ed to chief merchandising offi cer Rieland joined Jones as vice of bridge and lifestyle sportswear president of sales for Jones & By Jeanine Poggi Everlast brand, but also our strategic direction brands. Co. in 1995, and assumed her and long-term vision.” She succeeds Mark Mendelson, most recent post this year. The oxing and sporting goods manufacturer Everlast has been the main provider of gloves who is becoming a consultant for company described her as the BEverlast Worldwide Inc. has inked a deal and equipment for boxers since 1910 and later the $4.74 billion vendor. “architect and creative vision of to be acquired by a New York-based investment extended its reach beyond the boxing ring with Rieland has headed the Jones the merchandising and design consortium for more than $146 million in cash. apparel, footwear and other lifestyle products New York Signature Collection and of the Jones New York Signature The Hidary Group, the lead sponsor, will pay and accessories. Jones New York Sport Collection, Collection from its inception” and $26.50 per share, a 14.5 percent premium over New York-based Hidary has a portfolio that and recently took over the creative credited her with “the current suc- Thursday’s closing price and a 30 percent pre- includes consumer goods, real estate, technol- direction for the AK Anne Klein cess of the Jones New York Sport mium over the month’s average closing price. ogy and fi nancial services companies. Other in- relaunch. Effective immediately, Collection.” Everlast said the acquisition is expected to be vestment fi rms participating in the consortium Rieland will add Mendelson’s Like Rieland, before becom- completed during the third quarter of 2007. include Gracie Capital, Ore Hill Partners and responsibilities for Anne Klein ing chief merchandising officer The transaction, which will take the company Seneca Capital. New York bridge apparel. The for Jones, Mendelson was a group private, was approved by Everlast’s board in a “We believe that the depth of our experi- company is searching for an ex- president, handling the vendor’s special meeting on Friday, but must still be ap- ence growing brands online and offl ine offers ecutive to take on the Jones New better sportswear brands, includ- proved by Everlast’s shareholders. Executives an exciting fi t to help management further en- York Collection. Nine West will be ing Nine West, Jones New York at Everlast and Hidary could not be reached for hance Everlast’s iconic global brand,” said Jack handled by its existing team. and Anne Klein. Before joining comment. Hidary, managing partner of The Hidary Group, “The decision was easy: Susie Jones, he served as president of “We are pleased with the terms of this in a statement. “Everlast Worldwide, its manage- has been doing all of this, and giv- Elie Tahari. transaction and believe it is in the best inter- ment and its employees are a great addition to ing her additional responsibili- Based in New York, Rieland ests of the company’s stockholders,” said Seth our group of companies.” ties is a recognition of her talents will continue to report to Lynne Horowitz, chairman, president and chief ex- Piper Jaffray & Co. is serving as fi nancial and responsibilities,” said Peter Cote, ceo of wholesale for sports- ecutive offi cer of Everlast, in a statement. “The adviser to Everlast Worldwide, and Clarence Boneparth, president and chief wear, suits and dresses. Hidary Group has been an excellent licensing Schwab, managing partner of C. Schwab LLC, is executive offi cer. “It’s less about — Whitney Beckett partner, and, as such, has not only embraced the serving as fi nancial adviser to the Hidary Group. 4 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 WWD.COM Keep on Running The social season returned to its Energizer Bunny state last week — it just kept going and going and going. The fi rst major stop was the LVMH-sponsored opening of the Richard Serra retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art, which drew in about a thousand of the artist’s closest friends (also known as people the artist lambasted or snubbed at one point or another). Indeed, when approached for comment on the exhibition, Serra simply replied, “I’m not going to do that now,” and walked away. Yvonne Force Villareal succinctly noted the main similarity between the sculptures and the man who makes them: “Steel.” “Where do you put his art?” queried Bryce Marden. “You put it outside where he tells you to put it.” Joe Vilardi, the artist’s head rigger, described his boss as follows: “He’s really, really intense. He doesn’t want a lot of distraction.” Neither did the guests atop the roof of the Gramercy Park Hotel on Wednesday night for the second annual quiz night benefi ting Darna, hosted by Jacquetta Wheeler and sponsored by Oscar de la Renta and Vogue. “This is hard. I’m a wreck,” lamented Becca Cason Thrash. The cause of her frustration were trivia questions like, “What was unusual about the Crusaders led by Nicolas of Cologne?” and “What was Madonna’s fi rst single?” Cason Thrash competed against the likes of Michael Kors, Gilles Mendel, Cameron Silver, Georgina Chapman, Marjorie Gubelmann and a few teams of investment bankers, by Stephanie whom the fashion crowd was duly intimidated. “We’re screwed,” said Andrew Saffi r, Seymour motioning over to a group from Goldman Sachs. at MoMA. Just before Lily Allen and Jamie Burke showed up for the after party, it Marie-Josée Kravis was announced the Goldman Sachs guys did, indeed, take home fi rst prize. Lily in Dior by John Galliano Nevertheless, everyone seemed pleased. “We did much better on the science Allen with Richard Serra. section than fashion people should,” Kors laughed. Meanwhile, André Balazs Alexi celebrated the reissue of Kelly Klein’s book “Pools” at Hotel QT. Lubomirski The following evening, while John Lithgow, Bette Midler and Marcia Gay Harden with picnicked on the Harlem River to celebrate the Cherry Tree Project at Swindler Jacquetta Cove Park, the Paris Theatre was the site of a screening, hosted by Chanel, of “La Vie Wheeler in en Rose,” the biopic of famed French chanteuse Edith Piaf. A crowd including Lauren Oscar de Hutton, Lily Cole, Allison Sarofi m, Liya Kebede, Nina and Chiara Clemente and Olivia la Renta. Chantecaille dabbed their eyes through the heart-wrenching fi lm before heading to the Chanel store afterward for much-needed cocktails and hors d’oeuvres. “I knew of her but didn’t know her story was like that,” said a pregnant Karen Elson, who, despite her state, was still in need of some liquid comfort. “Cheers to you!” she said with a wink toward her belly, Champagne glass in hand. The fi lm’s star, Marion Cotillard, understandably needed more than a few drinks to recover from her experience of playing the tragic Piaf. “I went to Morocco and French Polynesia,” she smiled. “I had to get it out of me somehow.”

Marcia Gay Harden, Bette Midler and John Lithgow.

Marion Karen Cotillard Elson André in Chanel Delphine with Balazs and Haute Arnault Sarah Kelly Klein Couture. in Dior Nina Sophie Becca in Calvin by John Clemente in Flicker, Cason Klein Galliano at Giambattista both in Thrash in Collection. MoMa. Valli. Chanel. Chanel.

smuggle more than 50 rolls into the refugee camp. He slowly ingratiated himself with the local people and began sleeping in village huts, churches, on the outskirts of the camp and War Zone even alone under the stars, using his camera bag as a pillow. fter joining a Lowriders posse in Española, N.M.; a His photographic method was pretty simple: “Shoot fast, Aband of bikers in Harlem, and a gang of Bloods in squeeze in a few quick frames and then keep it moving.” St. Louis — all in the name of documentary photography Although he planned to document the military — Hunter Barnes has perfected the art of fitting into occupation in the area, Barnes found the citizens situations where a Caucasian boy from Oregon with a themselves more inspiring subjects. “At fi rst I wanted the camera might not otherwise belong. But the lensman’s war and the guns and the violence and the men fi ghting,” biggest challenge in amalgamation took place last year he says. “But when I got there, I realized this story is when he disguised himself as a Canadian doctor and about the people that don’t have the guns.” snuck into the Eastern province of Sri Lanka to document In the end, the images are among the few to make the post-tsunami devastation and civil strife plaguing it out of Sri Lanka. A small number of journalists have the area. His images are on display at the Milk Gallery A schoolgirl in Sri Lanka photographed by Hunter Barnes. managed to get into the area, which is patrolled by starting Wednesday, along with excerpts from a journal rockets and AK-47s, only to face several fi lm-seeking exit Barnes kept while living in the refugee camp. checkpoints. (Barnes’ photographs were confi scated at one point and sent through With a government-imposed lockdown on tourism and a military-enforced an X-ray machine intended to ruin the prints. “I’ve never sweated more in my ban on photographs of the region around Sri Lanka, Barnes’ mission was hardly life,” he remembers. “But, thankfully, they turned out.”) an easy feat. “The day before I was smuggled into the camp there was a suicide The week after Barnes’ departure, the one road to the camp was indefi nitely bombing,” he remembers, happily back on American soil. “So my fi rst night was closed. “I got out just in time,” Barnes says. “But in that month, I felt myself spent in a safe house outside the border, and then at 3 a.m., I was transported change as a person. It raised my moral consciousness. And that’s what I’m hoping across veiled as a medical professional, with a gun in my rib the whole time.” these pictures do for others.” Hiding his fi lm in his bag and under the van he was riding in, Barnes managed to — Derek Blasberg MIDLER PHOTO BY ANDREW H. WALKER/GETTY JIMI CELESTE/PMC; IMAGES; BALAZS MIDLER PHOTO BY BY STEVE EICHNER BY JIMI CELESTE; MOMA AND DARNA PARTIES BY CHANEL PARTY WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 5 WWD.COM Mideast Players Battling for Barneys Continued from page one QIA is to invest in trophy assets. Before the discovery and the company’s board. could go as high as $1.4 billion, a hefty sum for a chain of oil in the Forties, Qatar was dependent on the pearl One investment banker said, “Peter has visions of that, while upscale, only has 34 stores. industry for survival. In 1995, new technology allowed transportability of the brand, which the board doesn’t Financial sources said a deal could be completed it to develop its natural gas reserve in the North Field, really understand.” Another well-placed source from soon, perhaps within the next seven to 14 days as the which it shares with Iran. the fi nancial sector believes Boneparth would like to bidding has heated up in the last two weeks. Once they Investment arms of QIA include real estate-focused keep the high-end retailer, while the board is pushing gain control of the retailer, both entities are believed Qatari Diar and London-based Three Delta. Qatar rivals to sell. to be keen on keeping existing management at Barneys, Luxembourg with one of the highest per capita incomes While the investment banker suggested the QIA is in- led by chairman and chief executive offi cer Howard in the world. Business leaders there, eyeing what is hap- terested in Barneys more as a trophy asset and the other Socol, in place. pening in nearby Dubai, are eager to develop luxury re- fi nancial source believes Istithmar is keen on develop- A spokeswoman for Jones declined comment. sort and large-scale complexes to attract tourists. The ing the specialty chain, both sources are certain that if Reached on Sunday, an offi cial at the Qatar Investment QIA fund is valued at over $40 billion. a sale is completed, the retailer will go to one of the two Authority declined comment, while Istithmar could not Nearby is Dubai, part of the United Arab Emirates, Middle Eastern players. “That’s defi nitely where the be reached for comment. which gets most of its wealth not from oil, but from the money is coming from in terms of these kinds of invest- Barneys currently operates seven freestanding stores, country’s investments locally and abroad. Dubai’s ruler ments,” the banker said. with another set to open in San Francisco in September; is Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, and the Word surfaced in January that, after Jones’ failed 14 Co-ops, and one set to open in Hackensack, N.J., and country’s investment arm is Istithmar. The fund’s real auction of itself last August, the apparel fi rm was re- 13 outlets. Still, it is the chain’s largely untapped expan- estate holdings include assets in the United Kingdom viewing options to monetize some assets and fi gure sion potential in the U.S. and especially abroad that is and the United States, as well as U.S. discount retailer out how to grow the company, which has the bulk of its driving up the price. While Barneys has been successful Loehmann’s. brands in the moderate segment sold in department in rolling out its Co-op format in America, there is the Istithmar is believed to have the inside track in the stores. Barneys was at the outset a candidate for a sale, potential for even smaller shops in Middle Eastern hotels bidding for Barneys, according to a banking source spe- although other options on the table included an initial and tourist locales given the plethora of high-end luxury cializing in mergers and acquisitions. The fund’s banker, public offering. resort complexes popping up throughout the region. Peter J. Solomon, would understand the nuances and Banking sources at that time were estimating As fi rst reported in WWD, market sources here and intricacies of how and where the upscale retailer can Barneys was worth around $800 million to $900 mil- overseas initially linked a private equity fund connect- expand, as well as Barneys’ management depth, for the lion. Several private equity fi rms in the U.S. were said ed with the royal family of Qatar as the front-runner banking fi rm was the fi nancial adviser that arranged the to be eyeing the retailer, although investment banking for Barneys. Qatar Investment Authority is owned by sale of Barneys to Jones Apparel Group in December sources said those fi rms were looking at Barneys more the state, where Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al-Thani is 2004 for $400 million. A spokeswoman for Peter J. as a value play in the $700 million range. Barneys also emir. His cousin, Sheikh Hamad bin Jassimal Al-Thani, Solomon declined comment. snagged the attention of potential strategic buyers such Qatar’s foreign minister, heads up the QIA. However, the sale of Barneys has also been the sub- as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, both of which con- The country’s wealth is primarily from oil production ject of an internal struggle of sorts for the $4.74 billion sidered the acquisition and were talking about offers in and liquefi ed natural gas, although the mission of the Jones, that involves the group’s ceo, Peter Boneparth, the range of $840 million.

reinforce its commitment to art while sharing art with the greater public, according to chief executive offi cer Vittorio Notarpietro. “For years, Malo has been a quiet patron of contemporary art. We understand that it is important to give these artists a forum as well as share this Fashion Scoops incredible contemporary work with our customers,” he said. The company also is updating its stores to give them more of a boutique-gallery feel that showcases the work of artists such as DIEGO’S PLATFORM: Tod’s Diego Della Valle once again showed he’s not afraid to speak up about Giacomo Balla, Julian Schnabel, Louise Nevelson and Allen Jones beside Malo’s collections. issues that are close to his heart. During a conference organized by Italy’s footwear association, ANCI, in Milan on Friday, Della Valle urged the Italian government to do the following: SAMPLING CHANEL: Shoppers at Jackie Rogers’ sample sale later this month also will fi nd a Protect the Made in Italy label; act against counterfeiting and impose stronger antidumping few Chanel pieces. Rogers, who once modeled for Coco Chanel, will add six of her own Chanel regulations. Della Valle also said he hopes the government will cut taxes on companies’ profi ts suits to the mix. The size-6 items are expected to fetch $4,000 to $7,000 at the June 12 in order for entrepreneurs to invest in innovation, and help penetrate important markets by to 14 sale at the designer’s loft at 1034 Lexington Avenue in New York. A black-and-white setting up permanent exhibitions abroad. “Where do big foreign groups go to buy businesses? suit that was said to be designed for Rogers by Chanel herself also will be up for grabs. Those Here, in Italy. It’s almost as if they believe more in our skills than we do,” said Della Valle. He who miss out on the Chanel pieces will fi nd jewel-tone silk satin gowns, black crepe cocktail was mum, however, about whether he would ever be willing to enter the political arena. dresses and fox-trimmed day suits.

THE AIR UP THERE: Tonight’s Upstairs at the Library event at the 2007 CFDA Fashion Awards will LIFE ON THE FRINGE: “Tom Ford said my name and I nearly passed out,” said 24-year-old have no shortage of designers and social types. Expected to attend are the likes of Victoria Traina, London designer Andrea McWha, after learning she’d become a fi nalist in the annual Fashion Fabiola Beracasa, Zani Gugelmann, Padma Lakshmi, Genevieve Jones Fringe contest. “It’s a designer’s dream come true.” Ford, and Chanel Iman. While many designers will take in the ceremony Christopher Bailey, Fashion Fringe founder Colin McDowell downstairs at the Celeste Bartos Forum, the upstairs portion will and other judges gathered at the Red Bull headquarters in boast the younger league, including Jenni Kayne, Magda Berliner, London’s Soho to reveal the four fi nalists who will stage a Richard Chai, Miguelina Gambaccini, Sari Gueron, John Whitledge, catwalk show during London Fashion Week in September. Jeff Halmos, Sam Shipley, Tina Lutz and Marcia Patmos. The winner will receive funding to produce future collections, business advice and the chance to sell a capsule collection on PRINCESS DIARIES: Kidada Jones and fellow Hollywood Net-a-porter.com. The scheme was launched four years ago princesses Nicole Richie, Bijou Phillips, Monet Mazur, Rashida with IMG to support emerging British fashion design talent. Jones, Rosanna Arquette, Rumer Willis and Jessica Capshaw The fi nalists are Graeme Armour, Dejan Agatonovic, the duo played dress-up Thursday to celebrate Kidada’s third collection Marcus Wilmont and Maki Aminara Lofvander and McWha. for Disney Couture. Like her previous two collections, Tinkerbell and Alice in Wonderland, the jewelry, home and intimates lines, MUSEUM MILESTONE: Tiffany & Co. Foundation is donating based on the six Princess tales (Snow White, Sleeping Beauty, A rendering of $2 million to New York’s Museum of Art & Design to build a etc.), uses iconic images such as the “Mirror, Mirror on the the Malo/WPS1 jewelry resource center and gallery at the museum’s future Wall,” the castle and the poison apple. The 23-piece jewelry radio barge. home in Columbus Circle, opening next year. The Tiffany line, which ranges from $40 to $150 at retail, comprises & Co. Foundation Jewelry Gallery will house the museum’s mostly 14-karat gold-plated charm bracelets and chains with permanent collection and host public programs and artist leather and enamel accents. The eight-piece intimates collection, including a kimono, leggings, residences, allowing visitors to become engaged in jewelry-making processes and techniques. chemise and boyshorts, retails from $28 to $120. All sell exclusively in Ron Herman Melrose, “The Tiffany Jewelry Gallery is more than just a presentation space for the museum’s where vice president and women’s creative director John Eshaya created a Japanese-meets-fairy contemporary jewelry collection and special exhibitions,” said museum director Holly Hotchner. tale-themed room. Jones said her inspiration for the decor came from a trip to Japan. “Seeing the cherry blossoms is so profound, like falling in love for the fi rst time,” she said. ARTISTS’ NETWORK: His concierge company, Quintessentially, is expert at granting its members’ “I never really associated jewelry with Disney, but this is so cool and modern and last-minute requests — whether they be booking a restaurant or chartering a yacht — and now wearable,” said Amy Smart. Ben Elliot is set to share his little black book with the art world. Elliot, who’s also known as Denise Richards arrived with two princesses of her own, her daughters, Lola and Sam. “I the nephew of Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, has joined the advisory board of art and auction couldn’t turn down this party. It’s princess-themed, at Quincy [Jones’] home, and benefi ts the house Phillips de Pury & Co., and will collaborate with the company on an educational and Boys & Girls Club.” event program to run alongside Phillips de Pury’s selling activities, beginning in January. Jones said her next projects were likely to be Bambi and another Tinkerbell collection, with He’s in good company on the board, whose members include Marc Jacobs, Juergen Teller and colors and images inspired by Marie Antoinette. Lapo Elkann, who act as a creative network for Phillips de Pury’s chairman, Simon de Pury. Meanwhile, Elliot is developing his company’s own art advisory service, Quintessentially Art, PURSUING PARKER: Sarah Jessica Parker is no diva. After her car was rear-ended by overeager which will run alongside the bespoke wine service, Quintessentially Wine, and luxury chauffeur London paparazzi en route to present Covet, her latest fragrance, to the press, her sense of humor service, Quintessentially Driven. remained intact. “It’s very exciting and very fl attering,” she said of the skirmish. It’s clear the diminutive actress is made of stern stuff, as evidenced in Covet’s advertising, which was shot by GEM OF A CROWD: Sunshine, jewelry and City Bakery goodies lured Amber Valletta, Andie Jean-Paul Goude and shows Parker high-kicking a window in order to get to a bottle of the scent MacDowell and Jamie Tisch, channeling Lance Armstrong in yellow biking gear, to tea Thursday while wearing a Christian Lacroix couture gown and a pair of Christian Louboutins. “I wasn’t even at Ilene Resnick’s Brentwood home. Christine Greene, whose fl ower-inspired necklaces, bracelets worried about the shoes,” she recalled with a smile. “I was worried about my hip fl exors.” and earrings range from $1,500 to $8,000 at jewelry mecca Kaviar and Kind, showed off her latest hammered 18-karat yellow and white gold bangles to the receptive audience. “I am a MALO BARGES IN: The fashion crowd always makes the scene at the Venice Biennale, but this girl. I think it’s in my genes,” said Valletta, wearing vintage Ossie Clark, of her jewelry habit. year Malo plans to be seen and heard — as far as New York. The Italian label has partnered “I will wear blue jeans and a nothing shirt and have on a great pair of earrings.” Longtime with the Long Island City, N.Y., art center MoMA/PS1 to sponsor the barge that will house the pals Valletta and Greene, whose kids attended the same preschool, planned to whip up tasty Malo/WPS1 radio station, which will air Biennale-related info as well as interviews with artists morsels for the gathering, but abandoned the kitchen last minute in favor of a catered affair. and curators. The Biennale gets under way today in Venice. With the alliance, Malo aims to “We’re Aquarians, so we blamed it on that,” Greene joked. 6 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 Fluid Mechanics Flowing draped shapes with distinctive details are an important part of the resort with volume in dresses and skirts and juxtaposed tribal and citifi ed motifs. equation, showing up in a wide variety of collections. They play a key role at Doo.Ri, Elsewhere, bold color was important. Cynthia Rowley was inspired by the for instance, which isn’t surprising, because designer Doo-Ri Chung’s skill at draping vivid tones and patterns of artist Sonia Delaunay to create pieces such as a is part of what sets her apart from her peers. Meanwhile, at Ellen Tracy, creative striking zigzag cardigan, and Betsey Johnson went for strong shades, too. Finally, director George Sharp put a playful spin on the classics, using distinctive black and Edward Wilkerson of Lafayette 148 New York wanted his resort collection to white in solids or graphic prints. The design team at MaxMara, for its part, played refl ect the ease of seaside life. “I sketch on the beach,” he said.

Betsey Johnson

Cynthia Rowley WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 7 WWD.COM Lafayette 148 New York

Doo.Ri

Ellen Tracy MaxMara PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, KYLE ERICKSEN AND THOMAS IANNACCONE KYLE JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 WWD.COM Innerwear Report A Fashionable Tryst Between the Sheets By Karyn Monget Jennifer NEW YORK — A dash of fashion, fantasy and underground-edge Sanchez’s lingerie set the stage for the recent Between the Sheets runway sexy bra show that pulled in an eclectic mix of industry executives, student and bikini. designers and lingerie-loving club goers at Studio Mezmor. Layla L’obatti, a graduate of the intimate apparel program at the Fashion Institute of Technology here, who created and or- ganized the show, said the goal was to “give young designers a chance to channel their fantasies, desires and dreams into collec- tions which are shown in a real-life setting, building their confi - dence, exposure and networking skills as they head out into the competitive world of fashion.” While the show, which took place May 11, served as a potential stepping stone for the 15 student designers and recent graduates of FIT, its purpose also was to provide exposure for new talent at a time when retailers and manufacturers are looking for new ideas, concepts and exclusive brands and products, said the 22- year-old L’obatti, who is also president of Between the Sheets Inc., a marketing fi rm. L’obatti said she works on a shoestring budget to pull the show together, noting: “The models and hairstylists work for free be- cause they are all trying to build their portfolios. All of the design- ers sell tickets to friends and family for $20 at the door, and $15 for prepaid tickets, and then there are split admissions — a mix of the club crowd.” This year’s third edition drew 500 people, around 100 of whom were industry executives, she said. L’obatti said a key supporter of young talent has been The Underfashion Club Inc., an industry organization. “I was a scholarship recipient of the Underfashion Club dur- ing my senior year at FIT, where they funded $15,000 for me,” she said. “The club is very good as a networking tool for manufactur- ing, sourcing and jobs.” Addressing future projects, L’obatti said: “I’m looking to do smaller events, maybe at a boutique or club. The next step is, if a young designer is more aggressive and serious about doing An intricate back a single show, I would work with them. It would be an oppor- treatment by Layla tunity to invite potential investors, maybe buy a name. There Laura Cupelli’s L’obatti for Between are a lot of opportunities and approaches that haven’t been Claire Sanders’ tiered Empire-cut the Sheets. explored before. I believe a lot of these girls could start out silk daywear. sleepgown. designing right away.” PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY XOXO Builds Intimate Liaisons Fogal Expands Units in New York lobal Brand Holdings, owner of the XOXO brand, signed Ga licensing deal with SaraMax Apparel Group to intro- The new two-story location at 611 Madison duce a line of constructed and daywear bras, undies, day- Avenue at the southeast corner of East 58th Street wear items and bustiers bearing the XOXO name. formerly housed the boutique of Agatha jewelry The collection, which is aimed at major department and is in the same building as upscale glove pur- stores, such as Dillard’s and Macy’s, as well as specialty veyor Sermoneta. Fogal, which has sold its prod- boutiques, will be unveiled in August at the SaraMax show- ucts in the U.S. for 25 years, will maintain its rooms in New York. Shipments are scheduled for February. boutique at 115 Madison Avenue at the southeast The lingerie also will be sold on the xoxo.com e-com- corner of East 53rd Street, as well as a unit in merce site, and at department and specialty stores in Asia, Chicago, said Consolo. Central and South America and the Middle East, including “We are pushing for a pre-fall opening in Dubai, where a third XOXO shop was opened this spring; 11 August,” Consolo said. “The boutique [at Madison stores in Saudi Arabia, and one unit in Morocco. and 53rd] has established itself as a premier in- “There will be a mix of fashion and key items based on ternational specialty store and [the brand] has de- what XOXO is all about,” said Kitty Blincoe, creative and signs available at select New York stores including brand director for Earthbound LLC, the licensing fi rm that Barneys, Bloomingdale’s and Searle.” manages the XOXO name. “The collection will be driven by Cila Oertli, communications director of Zurich- price and color, and will encompass the XOXO mentality: based Fogal in Switzerland, said the company, Work, party, play.” which was created in Zurich in 1923 by entrepre- Blincoe added that a focus of the bra line for the XOXO neur Léon Fogal, will throw a party marking the core customer — young women in the 18-to-25 age range 25th anniversary of Fogal’s presence in the U.S. — will be constructed bras. “The party will look back at 25 years of Fogal in “Our girl wants the extra volume and molding of con- New York and will take place in either September structed bras,” she said, but there will be a selection of un- or October at the Swiss Institute of Contemporary constructed fashion daywear bras, as well. Art in Manhattan,” said Oertli. “We will expect Blincoe noted a goal will be to have the intimates mer- around 200 guests who will be able to view the chandised in “soft shop” areas with the licensed line of autumn-winter collection on a screen. It will XOXO sleepwear that is produced under license by The also stage the launch of a new art shopping bag Carye Group. designed by well-known contemporary artist Vanessa Muskopf, divisional vice president of SaraMax The Fogal boutique on Madison Madeleine Berkhemer.” and merchandiser of XOXO intimates, said the lingerie will Avenue and 53rd Street. Oertli added that distribution is being ex- refl ect key apparel trends currently on selling fl oors. panded in the international marketplace, espe- “There will be lots of attention to detail, with lace, mesh cially at the high-end Japanese department store and shiny microfi bers,” said Muskopf, noting that special uxury lingerie, bodywear and legwear brand Isetan. Fogal also operates 22 freestanding bou- effects will include printed elastics, ribbons, logoed bows, LFogal of Switzerland will be expanding its tiques worldwide. specialty buttons and jeweled treatments. presence in the U.S. this fall with a second store Oertli said Fogal, which was originally known Bras will retail at $18, undies will be $8, camis will sell on New York’s Madison Avenue. as a luxe label of legwear, is expanding its lingerie for $22 to $24 and bustiers will average $28. Plans are also in the works to open a third offerings, which were introduced in the Eighties The license with SaraMax unit on Wall Street, as well as two other stores in as a cotton group of bras, undies and bodysuits replaces one with Dana-co, Manhattan in 2008: one on the Upper East Side called In Addition. The idea was to coordinate the which was discontinued. and another on the Upper West Side, said Faith undergarments with Fogal’s hosiery and tights. “We couldn’t come to Hope Consolo, chairman of Prudential Douglas Lingerie assortments have since grown to in- terms on the details of the Elliman’s Retail Leasing & Sales Division, who clude a transparent Lycra spandex group called [Dana-co] license and there- exclusively represented the current landlord and Nude, which Oertli described as “a second skin,” fore the license ended,” said tenant agreement with the real estate fi rm’s exec- as well as a smattering of lace items. Blincoe. XOXO’s thirdthird Dubai store. utive vice president, Joseph A. Aquino. — K.M. — K.M.

10 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 WWD.COM Innerwear

Eileen West’s lace- trimmed cotton voile pants and tank top at the Komar Co. Playing Doubles NEW YORK — After seasons of devil-may-care mixing and matching, designers are taking a simpler, more straightforward approach to sleepwear, showing cropped pajama bottoms and matching, easy tops.

Hanky Panky’s nylon mesh top and pants.

Cotton knit T-shirt and pants from Mutts at Richard Leeds International. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN AND KRISTEN SOMODY KYLE PHOTOS BY

12 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 WWD.COM Accessories Report De Beers Begins Mining the Web

By Sophia Chabbott DE BEERS AND ITS DIAMONDS ARE ENTERING CYBERSPACE. This month, De Beers Diamond Jewelers, the joint venture between South African mining fi rm De Beers SA and luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is launching e-commerce on its Web site at debeers.com. E-commerce will be exclusive to the U.S. market and will offer diamond jewelry ranging from a $500 gold pendant detailed with diamonds to a $30,000 engagement ring with a 1.5-carat center stone fl anked by two side stones. Prices will climb higher than $30,000 in the future. The launch comes at a time when luxury goods, namely designer apparel, fi ne jewelry and handbags, are selling strongly on the Internet on sites such as neiman- marcus.com, Net-a-porter.com and eBay. The jewelry Web site Bluenile.com has gotten lots of attention and considers itself the largest online retailer of certifi ed diamonds, while smaller Web sites such as Angara. com specialize in novelty diamond jewelry, such as a bib neck- lace featuring fancy yellow and white diamonds, that climbs well over the $100,000 mark. Guy Leymarie Many such sites say engagement rings are top sellers and that consumers can save up to 40 percent shopping online rather than purchasing in a brick-and-mortar store. De Beers’ site offers no such discount incentive, but rather access to the fi rm’s branded jewelry in cities where it doesn’t have stores. De Beers’ new e-commerce The six-year-old brand opened its fi rst store in the option on its Web site. U.S. in 2005, on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. Stores in Beverly Hills and Las Vegas soon followed. Additional units are on deck, including a 1,353-square-foot shop A De Beers in Houston set to open in August, and a 4,700-square-foot Forever store in San Francisco and a 2,082-square-foot location in Ring. Washington, both planned for November. The fi rm has 14 stores outside the U.S., including locations in London, Paris and Dubai and expects to have 28 to 30 stores internation- ally by the year’s end. But it’s the middle of the country that chief executive Guy Leymarie anticipates will drive the site’s sales thanks to the brand’s cachet. “Today, e-commerce is clearly the new route [for selling], including goods like diamonds,” said Leymarie. “It suits a new con- cept, a new behavior. [We’re] not only [offering] entry prices, but also the very high end.” While competitors like Tiffany & Co. and Cartier have extensive Web Jewelry from the sites where consumers can view anything from watches to jewelry, dia- Talisman collection, mond engagement rings are only sold in-store. Cartier doesn’t sell online, but available on the site. Tiffany does. Leymarie said the fi rm started its e-commerce effort with the U.S. because the country consumes the most diamonds of any other place on the planet. De Beers’ designer collections, Talisman and Radiance, will also be sold on the that they may be more successful than others. [However], the fact is that site, in addition to classic styles like tennis bracelets and studs. most customers accustomed to buying luxury jewelry purchases need to “The products that we put on the site are what we consider products that are feel [the products] and see them to complete the purchase. To a large de- easy to buy,” he added. “For more complex stones or pieces that require more gree, De Beers in this country is not so well-known. The Web-based business explanation, we’ll invite [consumers] to the store for a more complete retail can improve the knowledge of who De Beers is.” experience so they can benefi t from the knowledge of our staff.” Arnold Aronson, managing director of retail strategies at Kurt All diamonds on the site include De Beers Passport, guaranteeing the Salmon Associates, said by democratizing diamond engagement rings provenance of the diamond. via selling online, De Beers has the opportunity to grow its business Leymarie declined to give sales projections for the e-commerce busi- signifi cantly. ness, but said branding is key to the initiative. The company has been trying to expand so that it is not only “When you think diamonds, you think of De Beers,” he said. “Our heritage is known for diamond stud earrings and engagement rings, but as a not denied. We have a brand name with a very high level of awareness.” diamond jewelry house. Hollywood jeweler Neil Lane designs a Some industry watchers said offering its goods online could take brand collection for the fi rm and British jeweler Stephen Webster, who is awareness to an even higher level. known for his sense of rock ’n’ roll and bedecking Madonna in his “Obviously, e-commerce has exploded in a variety of different areas. Some Gothic-inspired pieces, has just signed on to do a men’s line. had strong fi ts and starts,” said Andrew Jassin, managing director of Jassin & In October, De Beers is slated to introduce a watch line in conjunc- O’Rourke Group, a New York industry consulting fi rm. “Being that De Beers is a tion with a Swiss manufacturer. The watches will be within the Talisman cornerstone of the diamond business and the luxury business, there’s a possibility collection, which focuses on rough, uncut diamonds.

SMALL CHANGE: the brand said Made was in talks to collaborate with more designers in the future. Pippa Small, the A necklace “[It’s] a challenge to design with particular materials in mind, and not just rely on the sparkle London jeweler by Made. of gems and the brilliance of gold,” Small said. “It takes more thought and care. It is a FINDINGS known for adorning change to be focusing on a younger audience and in an ambience like Topshop, her fi ne jewelry with where it is more about immediate fashion and trends. In my own work, I am diamonds and turquoise shells that are close to their natural, unpolished less infl uenced by the catwalk and fashion. So it was interesting to really study state, has joined the designers’ march to the high street, but she’s made what was going on, what colors people were wearing, shapes and lengths.” sure her mass venture is ethically sound. Small, who studied anthropology before she became a jeweler, has THE SURREAL LIFE: Alexandra Jefford may soon have something in teamed with Made, a London-based fair trade accessories brand, to design common with her husband: getting paid in U.S. dollars. a line of fair trade jewelry at a fraction of the price of her main collection. The jeweler, whose screenwriter husband Hossein Amini’s credits The jeweler has worked with Made’s producers in Kenya to design pieces include “The Wings of the Dove,” stopped by Los Angeles last month to such as a three-strand necklace of silver beads, a bangle made from a rainbow introduce her 18-karat white and yellow gold pieces to a U.S. audience. of colored beads and a Chega choker — a traditional beaded Maasai necklace The trip follows an exhibition of Jefford’s work in November at the gallery White handmade by a Maasai artisan. Prices for the line range from $30 for a beaded Chega bangle Cube in London, where she lives. to $130 for a Makena silver necklace. “After I had my baby, I thought I would go for it,” said Jefford, a mother of three, “I believe wholeheartedly in what Made is doing,” said Small, who became aware of the including a one-year-old, of her decision to branch out to the U.S. brand after she found it was the only mass costume jewelry company that didn’t use plastic. Her jewelry also will soon land at Kabiri, a London shop that has picked up 20 items. Heavily “This is a genuine and good project in my opinion.” infl uenced by surrealist artists, the latest pieces are characterized by delicate, amorphous loops. Made was launched in 2006 by Cristina Cisilino, a former accessories buyer who wanted Nature’s infl uences are strong in earlier pieces, and an 18-karat white gold ring called “The to help producers in Africa sell their jewelry for a fair price and pay them a fair wage. The Mexican” features a South Sea pearl, a pear-shaped fi re opal, a white diamond and a leaf. company has also collaborated with jewelry designer Sam Ubhi and shoe designer Olivia Morris Jefford began designing jewelry in 2001. Partly because of exchange rates, she hasn’t yet on a line of sandals. All the designers provide their expertise for free and a spokeswoman for pinned down the U.S. prices of her pieces, which generally start at around $400. SPECIAL ISSUE

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Bonus distribution: Accessorie Circuit, MAGIC, Vision Expo West and all regional markets. Issue date: July 23 Close date: June 18

For more information on advertising in WWD, contact Alix Michel, associate publisher, accessories, WWDStyle Starts Here™ at 212-630-4596; Ron Troxell, West Coast senior account manager, at 323-965-7285, or your WWD representative. 14 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 WWD.COM Financial

suit against Kenny and Mary reached for comment. 22, the defendant, Lush Inc., is an Illinois Jiang in a Florida federal court Cartier, a division of Richemont corporation that uses the names Lush and on May 25 for allegedly selling North America, and Cartier Int’l won a Lush Salon/Spa associated with salon and counterfeits. According to court fi nal judgment on consent against GL spa services and hair care products. The documents, the defendants were Web Enterprises and Leda Malaga in defendant could not be reached for com- accused of selling counterfeit a lawsuit involving trademark litiga- ment. Cosmetic Warriors asked the court accessories through a variety of tion. According to court documents in a for preliminary and permanent injunc- NEW YORK — American Eagle Outfitters online venues. Louis Vuitton asked for a Manhattan federal court, the parties en- tions and damages. and Retail Royalty Co. got a permanent preliminary and permanent injunction, tered into a settlement agreement for an The Timberland Co. won a fi nal judg- injunction and consent judgment against damages and trial costs. The defendants undisclosed sum. The lawsuit was fi led ment on consent and a permanent injunc- Tala Brothers Corp., which does busi- could not be reached for comment. over alleged infringements of Cartier’s tion in a trademark counterfeiting and ness as Low and Sweet, as well as David Separately, Louis Vuitton Malletier fi led Tank Francaise trade dress. infringement lawsuit fi led in Manhattan Talasazan and other unnamed firms on a lawsuit in a Massachusetts federal court Cosmetic Warriors Ltd. fi led a trade- federal court. The judgment was approved May 25. The original lawsuit was filed against Eleetra Harris and Khristas Treasure mark infringement lawsuit in a Chicago on May 16. According to court documents March 2006 for alleged trademark coun- Chest for alleged trademark counterfeiting. federal court against Lush Inc. over fi led on behalf of Timberland by Brian terfeiting and infringement. Manhattan Harris sold counterfeit Louis Vuitton goods the use of the “Lush” and “Lush Fresh Brokate, a partner with the law firm federal Judge Robert W. Sweet ordered through the Internet and other trade chan- Handmade Cosmetics” trademarks. Gibney, Anthony & Flaherty, the lawsuit al- the defendants to pay the retailer $120,000 nels, according to court documents fi led on Cosmetic Warriors owns a related entity, leged that Salim Sadagheh and Shoe Town in damages according to the terms of the May 25. Louis Vuitton asked for a perma- Lush Ltd., which operates retail stores Inc. sold goods that violated Timberland’s settlement agreement among the parties, nent injunction, damages of as much as $1 in the U.S. selling bath and beauty prod- trademarks. The defendants were en- court documents said. million for each trademark infringement ucts made from natural ingredients. joined from selling the merchandise. Louis Vuitton Malletier fi led a law- and trial costs. The defendant could not be According to court documents fi led May — Liza Casabona

Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE 84.92 49.98 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 17.1 59847 81.26 -0.20 35.54 27.30 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 66741 29.98 0.31 28.54 21.44 Acadia (AKR) 58.0 17371 28.70 1.11 42.83 22.14 Jos. A Bank (JOSB) 17.5 20476 41.80 2.29 47.82 21.07 Aéropostale (ARO) 21.8 42593 46.56 0.73 34.84 24.46 Kellwood (KWD) 35.1 13410 29.32 1.56 How much consumers 25.04 17.01 Alberto Culver (ACV) 11.7 28020 25.24 0.89 28.32 21.75 Kenneth Cole (KCP) 18.4 3005 25.11 0.37 spent online last year on 3.45 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech (APT) 19.3 1285 2.70 0.07 72.16 58.63 Kimberly Clark (KMB) 19.4 69719 71.67 0.66 34.80 20.56 American Eagle (AEO) 14.9 109671 27.20 0.07 53.60 35.07 Kimco Realty (KIM) 32.2 71587 46.35 3.12 home furnishings goods: 45.15 32.25 Ann Taylor (ANN) 20.2 45843 38.71 0.17 79.55 52.69 Kohl’s (KSS) 21.5 116630 76.10 2.53 9.95 6.17 Ashworth (ASHW) - 2206 8.27 -0.14 37.81 22.54 K-Swiss (KSWS) 14.4 13286 28.77 0.26 $10 billion 41.85 26.16 Avon (AVP) 29.8 179839 39.21 2.18 17.70 11.49 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 15.8 112 17.21 0.00 15.75 8.37 Bakers (BKRS) - 357 8.47 -0.28 15.70 11.37 Lakeland Inds (LAKE) 15.0 258 13.98 0.20 26.86 14.07 Bebe (BEBE) 20.9 19707 18.11 0.71 32.60 23.54 Limited Brands (LTD) 16.5 181060 26.93 0.68 Percentage of consumers 40.00 27.19 Benetton (BNG) 44.2 108 33.93 0.25 24.23 8.66 Liquidity Services (LQDT) 58.7 6401 19.94 1.62 18.00 10.01 Big Dog (BDOG) 863.5 641 17.35 0.35 46.84 33.24 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) 15.7 61445 35.34 0.90 who said they would give 9.60 6.05 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 15.2 82 8.18 -0.01 13.15 3.00 LJ Intl. (JADE) 40.9 37555 11.90 0.53 37.93 25.18 BJs (BJ) 27.4 34251 37.54 0.29 35.39 24.17 Luxottica (LUX) 27.3 11868 35.70 2.15 either a gift card or cash 6.00 1.29 Blue (BLUE) - 1290 1.59 0.05 103.59 67.90 Macerich (MAC) 141.6 36338 89.39 5.31 as a graduation gift: 1.60 0.70 Bluefly (BFLY) - 2336 1.07 0.02 46.70 32.57 Macy’s (M) - 80341 40.58 2.18 57.66 20.22 Bon-Ton (BONT) 27.6 12039 48.67 3.57 24.49 11.11 Maidenform (MFB) 13.4 7697 18.61 -0.41 90 percent 37.68 20.09 Brown Shoe (BWS) 19.3 36501 29.92 2.16 53.36 29.81 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 17.7 36716 53.00 3.46 41.08 22.25 Buckle (BKE) 20.3 9049 40.81 2.35 26.31 17.14 Marcus (MCS) 23.4 3583 23.75 1.25 26.32 15.00 Caché (CACH) 39.7 18786 16.39 0.39 57.65 26.07 Mothers Work (MWRK) 16.9 1443 37.93 1.00 28.57 21.80 Capitalsource (CSE) 15.7 61166 26.47 1.79 35.40 20.09 Movado (MOV) 17.3 12736 33.08 0.70 Estimated percentage of 30.18 20.53 Carter (CRI) 19.5 20677 27.62 1.82 3.50 0.67 Movie Star (MSI) - 621 2.16 0.06 private label goods at 15.10 9.34 Casual Male (CMRG) 9.8 37218 11.78 0.37 25.95 18.86 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 19.3 20548 24.30 0.82 26.70 20.30 Cato (CTR) 13.9 10724 21.85 0.37 16.20 9.41 New York & Co. (NWY) 17.0 19044 12.28 0.31 U.S. retailers today: 50.36 36.66 CBL (CBL) 35.4 47332 41.12 2.77 57.12 37.76 Nike (NKE) 20.8 145044 56.69 2.41 12.74 9.03 CCA (CAW) 13.0 800 9.10 -0.19 9.38 3.48 Nitches (NICH) 31.6 702 3.71 0.06 30 percent 13.15 4.01 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) 16.8 2071 4.68 -0.15 59.70 31.77 Nordstrom (JWN) 19.1 182333 53.43 1.64 33.93 18.50 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 16.6 27223 28.52 2.26 26.63 14.86 Oakley (OO) 36.3 20658 25.66 1.36 15.57 9.69 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) 14.8 76694 12.65 0.51 6.77 3.25 Orange 21 (ORNG) - 290 6.46 -0.04 Projected percentage of 65.49 27.99 Chattem (CHTT) 27.2 15578 63.64 0.29 11.55 5.00 Orchids Paper (TIS) 72.3 36 5.01 -0.09 47.25 33.65 Cherokee (CHKE) 11.9 1859 48.28 2.38 53.98 34.34 Oxford (OXM) 15.7 5132 45.98 1.60 private label goods at U.S 31.32 17.26 Chico’s (CHS) 29.3 136634 26.97 1.83 23.11 13.12 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) 60.3 74549 20.69 1.68 71.81 49.49 Children’s Place (PLCE) 21.6 32564 57.80 2.62 13.98 4.33 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) 49.6 6475 4.49 0.08 retailers in fi ve years: 31.25 16.28 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 21.0 20133 18.58 0.82 30.35 17.00 Paxar (PXR) 22.2 30458 30.28 0.08 45 percent 43.83 34.57 Cintas (CTAS) 18.4 55517 38.48 1.32 37.20 22.07 Payless Shoes (PSS) 18.3 67177 35.66 1.43 49.72 26.78 Citi Trends (CTRN) 27.6 7652 39.19 0.80 35.22 14.75 Perry Ellis (PERY) 17.5 8517 31.77 0.53 37.49 23.88 Claire’s Stores (CLE) - 150360 32.98 0.05 62.19 32.21 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 21.3 58429 61.50 6.46 54.00 25.18 Coach (COH) 30.8 146384 51.34 2.68 6.09 1.38 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 345 2.85 0.00 SOURCE: EMMANUEL WEINTRAUB & ASSOCIATES, 31.25 16.77 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) 41.4 264171 24.84 4.17 15.90 9.30 Playtex (PYX) 27.6 16028 15.03 0.12 NRF, 2007 STATE OF RETAILING ONLINE 69.00 58.01 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 23.2 94207 67.41 0.84 99.68 45.65 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 25.4 68076 96.88 4.66 70.03 42.85 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 19.5 8924 70.38 3.51 20.88 10.02 PriceSmart (PSMT) 41.8 2691 20.45 0.79 32.00 17.61 Conns (CONN) 17.4 19338 31.12 4.07 1.71 0.92 Quaker Fabric (QFAB) - 189 1.12 0.01 58.70 46.00 Costco (COST) 24.1 183983 56.29 -0.11 16.08 10.90 Quiksilver (ZQK) 22.4 87561 14.23 1.02 9.59 7.27 Cost U Less (CULS) 14.7 463 9.49 0.35 12.20 5.75 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 21.8 2735 11.00 0.04 WWD Index 82.25 21.56 Crocs (CROX) 37.5 87433 81.04 3.47 39.55 25.85 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 13.0 3631 36.98 0.96 9.25 4.24 Culp (CFI) - 1031 9.03 0.04 93.49 59.18 Regency Centers (REG) 35.2 25720 78.67 4.79 14.34 9.02 Cutter & Buck (CBUK) 19.9 2294 14.32 0.01 23.30 13.61 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 7651 19.48 0.28 5.00 1.33 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 1900 2.30 -0.01 3.04 0.76 Revlon (REV) - 102032 1.43 0.15 30.04 21.34 Deb Shops (DEBS) 18.8 1197 28.64 2.05 24.22 9.73 Rocky Brands (RCKY) 18.5 2153 15.60 0.05 88.30 33.36 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 31.0 12103 88.20 5.14 35.17 22.12 Ross Stores (ROST) 18.2 70525 32.85 0.59 Composite 12.00 6.61 Delia’s (DLIA) 52.7 24211 8.37 0.35 23.25 14.10 Saks (SKS) - 131223 20.01 0.33 20.50 14.91 Delta Apparel (DLA) 12.6 336 16.82 -0.28 195.18 134.56 Sears (SHLD) 18.8 72881 180.44 1.02 1071.37 10.58 6.50 Delta Galil (DELT) - 20 6.91 -0.14 35.26 19.25 Shoe Carnival (SCVL) 16.6 7497 29.91 2.32 72.33 49.27 Developers Diversified (DDR) 35.0 50462 61.54 2.50 7.93 2.08 Shoe Pavilion (SHOE) 49.8 15983 2.50 0.26 40.56 27.39 Dillard’s (DDS) 12.7 117892 37.27 2.03 123.96 78.26 Simon Properties (SPG) 49.8 67175 108.02 6.14 21.66 12.10 Dollar General (DG) 49.2 101091 21.63 0.03 38.03 19.70 Skechers (SKX) 17.3 23958 32.33 0.16 26.84 16.91 Dress Barn (DBRN) 15.5 89107 22.95 1.34 5.90 3.68 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 57 4.17 -0.03 44.71 26.71 DSW (DSW) 25.7 16827 38.41 0.60 18.00 11.27 Stein Mart (SMRT) 14.3 32576 12.94 0.45 42.06 28.31 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 26.6 26 39.34 1.33 5.00 2.83 Stephan (TSC) - 276 3.78 -0.02 15.00 6.50 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 10182 14.00 0.25 44.70 25.17 Steve Madden (SHOO) 15.2 6089 33.19 0.54 35.64 23.99 13.63 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 25.2 7277 23.95 0.93 20.38 11.90 Stride Rite (SRR) 20.0 30059 20.16 -0.01 52.31 34.88 Estée Lauder (EL) 23.9 42964 47.21 -0.04 13.54 11.35 Superior Uniform (SGC) 49.4 374 12.70 -0.15 23.87 11.23 Everlast Worldwide (EVST) 32.6 5053 26.36 4.30 21.36 15.82 Syms (SYM) 31.6 3775 20.73 0.23 34.16 21.57 Family Dollar (FDO) 21.7 57361 33.86 0.48 2.15 0.58 Tag-It (TAG) 33.0 8114 0.70 -0.19 14.97 9.55 Finish Line (FINL) 18.8 16698 13.18 0.73 31.00 17.30 Talbots (TLB) 120.8 16859 21.72 0.53 26.16 24.58 Forest City (FCY) 31.7 16 25.30 -0.05 13.70 9.27 Tandy Brands (TBAC) 20.8 171 12.39 1.18 31.65 16.69 Fossil (FOSL) 33.2 15879 31.24 1.15 8.32 5.75 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 11.1 791 7.18 0.10 15.74 11.30 Freds (FRED) 21.2 29175 14.40 -0.38 43.56 30.30 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 63.6 18817 41.74 0.58 Weekly % Changes 40.06 31.12 G&K (GKSR) 19.3 4571 38.10 0.72 64.74 44.70 Target (TGT) 18.6 359358 63.67 2.91 17.90 9.80 Gaiam (GAIA) 62.0 9329 15.90 1.17 2.20 1.05 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 2596 1.36 -0.01 (ending June 1) 21.39 15.91 Gap (GPS) 21.1 208007 18.51 0.33 63.87 36.69 Taubman (TCO) 110.0 20850 55.36 3.52 67.43 42.56 General Growth (GGP) 54.2 115786 58.71 2.88 13.00 8.72 Tefron (TFR) 11.5 1276 9.39 -0.06 Gainers Close Change 53.85 25.50 Genesco (GCO) 19.8 65836 52.87 1.37 54.75 29.63 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 27.7 88114 51.93 -0.15 26.74 7.91 G-III Apparel (GIII) 20.8 5945 21.76 2.80 33.45 24.80 Timberland (TBL) 16.1 26618 27.56 1.36 True Religion 19.94 27.58 36.59 19.12 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 37.0 15304 35.34 0.80 30.24 22.16 TJ Maxx (TJX) 16.4 121130 28.12 0.62 29.69 23.08 Glimcher (GRT) - 9456 27.24 1.14 23.88 14.65 True Religion (TRLG) 19.6 43557 19.94 4.31 Coldwater Creek 24.84 20.17 15.37 6.29 Gottschalks (GOT) 48.4 1448 12.67 0.14 44.53 31.05 Tween Brands (TWB) 21.3 32434 43.57 2.26 44.91 19.29 Guess (GES) 32.5 57849 45.53 4.42 54.00 32.20 Under Armour (UA) 56.3 24699 48.09 0.74 J. Crew 50.08 19.98 49.11 28.69 Gymboree (GYMB) 18.8 31730 45.21 3.03 3.50 1.69 Unifi (UFI) - 3774 2.99 0.27 Everlast 26.36 19.49 123.75 75.03 Hallwood (HWG) - 0 91.32 0.00 45.01 29.50 Unifirst (UNF) 17.7 2697 43.11 1.53 18.50 11.76 Hampshire (HAMP) - 198 17.20 0.75 20.00 11.50 United Retail (URGI) 15.0 6159 12.00 -0.35 Conns 31.12 15.05 29.65 17.75 Hanesbrands (HBI) - 32328 26.35 0.65 27.75 13.65 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 34.5 92594 27.11 1.89 7.86 5.50 Hartmarx (HMX) 163.8 8287 6.66 0.38 93.88 62.16 VF Corp. (VFC) 18.9 29004 94.13 1.92 28.10 16.18 Helen of Troy (HELE) 16.5 8175 27.50 0.41 43.70 18.24 Volcom (VLCM) 35.1 6069 43.38 1.32 Decliners Close Change 14.77 9.43 Hot Topic (HOTT) 34.6 38429 10.94 0.14 52.15 42.31 Wal-Mart (WMT) 16.0 973702 49.47 2.56 4.45 0.95 House of Taylor (HOTJ) - 3310 1.54 -0.18 34.58 15.75 Warnaco (WRNC) 16.6 25260 34.25 1.04 Tag-It 0.70 -21.35 40.99 23.54 IAC Interactive (IACI) 53.2 140744 34.80 0.37 14.05 10.50 Wellco (WLC) - 0 13.98 0.00 23.13 12.64 Iconix (ICON) 26.8 31886 22.83 1.36 52.30 36.77 Weingarten (WRI) 28.5 40588 46.73 1.52 House of Taylor 1.54 -10.47 1.45 0.37 Innovo (INNO) - 2539 1.20 0.01 27.08 19.99 Weyco (WEYS) 13.6 255 25.83 0.14 29.18 15.39 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 28.6 4100 27.70 0.67 4.13 1.01 Wilsons (WLSN) - 1217 1.38 0.13 Jaclyn 8.96 -4.68 44.87 24.00 J. Crew (JCG) 25.4 56865 50.08 8.34 31.08 22.27 Wolverine (WWW) 18.5 19242 29.30 -0.02 87.18 61.20 J.C. Penney (JCP) 15.8 90721 81.99 2.73 31.72 22.82 Zale (ZLC) 40.7 17085 26.81 0.15 Bakers 8.47 -3.20 14.25 7.15 Jaclyn (JLN) 18.1 237 8.96 -0.44 42.65 20.00 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 49.5 35819 38.28 -0.77 Charles & Colvard 4.68 -3.11 Want to make an impact on our nation’s economy but don’t have much time?

The Institute for Supply Management™, most importantly, your responses will source of one of the nation’s most be kept strictly confi dential. There’s highly regarded economic reports, the no better time than the present to play ISM Report On Business®, is currently a key role in helping to improve the seeking apparel business professionals forecasting skills of our nation’s top in purchasing and supply management government offi cials and business to participate in the monthly Report leaders while helping to increase the On Business® survey and awareness of the supply manage- ISM’s Business Survey ment profession! Committee. For additional informa- In as little as 10 min- tion, or to be considered utes each month, and for selection for the ISM without ever leaving the Business Survey Committee, offi ce, you can provide critical contact Kristin Pearce at economic input to the ISM Report On [email protected], or submit an Business®, which has been recognized application online at www.ism.ws/ as the nation’s most reliable near-term ISMReportROBSurvey.cfm. economic indicator. For further information Participating in ISM’s Report On Busi- on the ISM Report On ness® survey is quick and easy — and Business® please visit www.ism.ws/ISMReport. 16 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 Shopping Centers C

By Sharon Edelson LAS VEGAS — The sight along the Strip of cranes hovering over towers in various stages of completion was a sign of optimism not lost on the 50,000 real estate and retail professionals at- tending the International Council of Shopping Centers’ spring convention here late last month. While earth was being moved at the massive CityCenter and Shoppes at the Palazzo proj- ects, Taubman and General Growth Properties, which are respectively leasing the two proper- ties, were competing to secure key tenants. While few leases are actually signed during ICSC, retailers on the prowl for space do a mating dance with brokers and developers; deals often get consummated after the convention has ended. Nordstrom hired Madison HGCD to lead its search for a New York fl agship. Liz Claiborne was actively seeking locations for its Kate Spade, Juicy Couture and Lucky Brand Jeans units, and British retailer Topshop was said to be in the market for three 50,000-square-foot locations in Manhattan. “Barneys New York wants to do an Upper East Side Co-op store,” said Robert K. Futter- man, chairman of the real estate fi rm that bears his name. Concerns about rising rents, especially in key cities such as New York and San Francisco, were raised at the convention, which ran May 20 to 23. “Rents on 34th Street [in Manhattan] were $100 a square foot eight years ago,” said Jeffrey Paisner, executive managing director of Lansco. “Now, they’re $400 a square foot. It’s no different on Rodeo Drive or North Michigan Avenue in Chicago. Rents in malls aren’t rising at the same rate as street locations.” A rendering of the retail area of Central Market in Abu Dhabi.

Prices have risen feverishly in the 34th Street corridor, where J.C. Penney will unveil in late 2008 or 2009 a 150,000-square-foot store in the Manhattan Mall on Sixth Avenue between 32nd and 33rd Streets, right in Macy’s backyard. Macy’s may get even more company. A property at 1333 Broadway at 35th Street was being marketed at ICSC as a potential fl agship for a department store. “We can make the fi rst 10 fl oors avail- able,” said Jeffrey Roseman, executive vice president and principal of Newmark Knight Frank. “That’s anywhere from 65,000 square feet to 250,000 square feet. This area completely changes with [Penney’s].” Retailers are retooling existing concepts and introducing new ones. Sources said Abercrombie & Fitch is modifying and making changes to Ruehl, its casual fashion chain for young urban profes- sionals. Meanwhile, Marc Ecko Collections Cut and Sew made its debut at the Fashion Show Mall here, as did J. Crew’s Madewell. People were talking about Abercrombie’s fi fth retail concept, which will involve lingerie, and Anthropologie’s new outdoor lifestyle store, featuring plants, greenhouses, patio furniture and outdoor kitchens. Abercrombie & Fitch declined to comment on its fi fth concept. “The life span of retail concepts is getting shorter and shorter,” said Stan Laegreid, a principal of Callison, a retail design fi rm based in Seattle. “People have to be fresh much more rapidly. The changes The life span of retail concepts is getting“ shorter and shorter. — Stan” Laegreid, Callison

are inspired by competition.” At the ICSC’s Hot Retailer Awards, J. Crew chairman and chief executive offi cer Mickey Drexler accepted the top award and re- vealed that the company will open a store for J. Crew Collection on upper Madison Avenue in New York. It will be the company’s fi rst store devoted to the higher-priced line, which is available online and includes snakeskin clutches for $395 and white ramie gowns for $895. Other Hot Retailer winners were Little Gym, Lucy, Ulta, Uniqlo and Winestyles. The intense competition for tenants underscored how much power department stores can have over the fate of a proposed shop- ping center. North Phoenix is a fi erce battleground, with Westcor’s Palisene, Related Urban Development and the Thomas J. Klutznick Co.’s City North and DMB Associates’ One Scottsdale in various stages of development. “There’s 4 million square feet of retail space proposed for North Phoenix,” said David C. Scholl, senior vice presi- dent of development for Westcor. “There’s only demand for 1 million square feet. It’s a scary situation.” Scholl said Palisene has a commitment from Bill Dillard and that Bloomingdale’s could join the project. “Neiman’s told us they want to be out here for Palisene after 2011 or 2012,” he said. “Nordstrom could [join] if they don’t like the progress at one of the locations,” he said, re- ferring to CityNorth, which has a signed letter of intent from Nordstrom. “If all [the projects] are competing for luxury retailers then we’re com- peting for the same tenants,” Scholl said. “If a winner comes forth and WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 17 WWD.COM hase Luxury at ICSC

“If Dubai is the Las Vegas of the Gulf, Abu Dhabi will be the Monte Carlo,” said Laegreid of Callison, which works in the region. Aldar ceo Ronald Stephen Barrott said Abu Dhabi is a retailer’s dream, a wealthy population with few local shopping options. “One million people from Abu Dhabi travel to Dubai” to shop, he said. “Abu Dhabi has one of the highest gross domestic prod- ucts in the world at $50,000.” Aldar designs shopping centers like stage sets. Norman Foster was tapped for Central Market, which will feature 1.2 million square feet of luxury retail, an 88-fl oor residential tower, offi ce tower, souk and two hotels. Barrott said the majority of retailers in Aldar projects are European. Burberry, Chanel, Gucci, Prada, Bulgari, Mulberry and Cartier are in the brochure. “America has got some of the greatest retailers in the world,” he explained. “Problem is, they don’t like traveling.” Dawn Clark, a principal at Callison, agreed. The company is working on some early feasibility studies for Saks Fifth Avenue in Asia. “Saks is one of the few large brands that goes overseas,” she said. “It’s a small club.” Harvey Nichols, which is aggressively expanding overseas, is “trying new things,” said Clark. “They’re very edgy and doing cutting-edge fashion. We’re working on a 120,000-square-foot Harvey Nichols store in Jakarta [Indonesia].” Callison designed a Harvey Nichols unit in Dubai, which has clean lines and cool light that makes it feel like an oasis. “Harvey Nichols is considering more locations in the region, including Abu Dhabi,” Clark said. “There doesn’t seem to be any end in sight for the luxury brands. There’s more expansion and retail development in Dubai. There’s even enough capacity for Harvey Nichols to do another store there.” An overview of Aldar’s Central Market project.

delivers the tenants, the oth- ers should bow out.” Kenneth Himmel, ceo of Related, has no inten- tion of doing that. He said the company is talking to Neiman Marcus about an- choring a luxury zone at CityNorth in 2010. Related places a high premium on dining and Himmel said the company is talking to chef Charlie Palmer and restaurateur Danny Meyer about opening eateries at CityNorth. If Bloomingdale’s comes on board, he envisions a des- tination restaurant on the store’s third fl oor. Macy’s West would house 15 res- taurants if it became part of the project, he said. In Las Vegas — where 7.2 million square feet of Callison’s design for Seibu in Jakarta new retail space is under incorporates luxurious materials. construction along the Strip and another 10.5 million is planned for the next 12 months — the stakes keep getting higher. On the second day of the ICSC convention, Boyd Gaming unveiled a joint venture agreement with General Growth to develop a 300,000-square-foot re- tail promenade as part of its 87-acre Echelon resort project, which will include the Delano, Mondrian and Shangri-La hotels. While there may be some duplication with other shopping centers on the Strip, John Bucksbaum, ceo of GGP, said Echelon’s retail offering will be more eclectic. “The Delano and Mondrian in particular appeal to a younger, hipper person,” he said. “There’s a place for smaller designers who could be ready to do their fi rst store.” But the U.S. isn’t the only place where developers are targeting the affl uent — there also are a plethora of international projects. Macromir, which has built malls in St. Petersburg, with names such as French Boulevard and Rodeo Drive, is developing City Mall there, a 1.24 million-square-foot center with a hypermarket, food court, fashion and sporting goods stores, movie theater and bowl- ing alley. The company is also working on Graf Olaf Gallery in St. Petersburg, a 1.77-million-square-foot mall with a Beaux Arts design featuring fountains and atriums carved from granite and marble. Macromir said it hopes Graf Olaf ’s design will help it “attract fa- mous and elite brands.” Abu Dhabi-based Aldar, which has more than $60 billion under development, had a booth the size of a small oil fi eld. With its plush white carpeting, sleek chrome furniture and prodigious display of Western and Middle Eastern cuisines, the booth was the talk of the convention. The United Arab Emirates’ capital is being transformed into a high-end tourist destination. 18 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 WWD.COM Human Resources Adapting to Workplaces and Lifestyles

orporate cultures vary from company to company, and also from WWD: What about, on the West Coast, the difference between Los Cone part of the country to another. Here Brad Smith, senior con- Angeles and San Francisco? sultant at executive search firm C-Suite Inc., which has offices in Smith: Los Angeles and San Francisco are so different when it Boston and New York, discusses some of the issues connected with comes to weather, environment and culture that the people who executive moves from one coast to the other. live and work in these cities tend to be drawn to one or the other — Vicki M. Young by key quality of life issues.

WWD: How different are the work cultures when comparing the WWD: What about the areas further north, as in the Pacifi c East and West Coasts? Northwest? Brad Smith: A company’s culture is formed by a number of differ- Smith: The Pacifi c Northwest is a good example of a region where ent factors, and geography is just one of them. The most signifi cant local lifestyle plays heavily into the culture of the local apparel determinant of corporate culture is the executive who sits in the businesses. You’ll fi nd a greater percentage of people who stay corner offi ce. Having said that, there are some generalizations we with one company for a longer period of time, if not for much of can make about cultural differences between various geographic their career. People are somewhat less willing to leave their cur- regions. New York is the undisputed fashion capital of the U.S., rent jobs because they’re able to live the lifestyle they are looking but the talent pool [in fashion] is also quite strong throughout the for and see no need for change. country, especially in Orange County, Los Angeles, San Francisco, as well as Portland and Seattle. WWD: How does lifestyle in an area impact the ability to recruit for jobs located in other parts of the country? WWD: How great is the impact from the local lifestyle on the work Smith: The more strategic the role or seasoned the executive, the less environment? that geography plays into the equation. Executives tend to be more Smith: The impact of the local lifestyle on the work environment Brad Smith career-centric, in search of opportunities that will be a good strategic is very real. Whether it is weather, community, move for the overall path of their career. The opposite is true for more cultural events or proximity to nature, these are junior roles. This presents a greater challenge to the hiring company factors that are important to potential candidates, to provide a compelling experience where you have to sell the region along with the job. and are a part of their decision-making process. We know there is the perception that companies WWD: When seeking to hire someone from an entirely different geographic area, what in California are more “laid-back,” and to a de- can companies do to make the transition easier for their chosen candidate? gree, that may be true. Certainly when talking Smith: Like any business decision, do your due diligence. Learn as much about your about dress code, companies in California are candidate and their family as you can. Then provide information to the candidate on more casual than many of those in New York. the latest demographics, information on schools, diversity, employers in the area [if a However, when talking about the elements that go partner or spouse will be accompanying the candidate] and relevant social informa- into building a successful brand or business, you tion. We have gone so far as to provide a chief operating offi cer candidate who was can fi nd the same level of professionalism and relocating with local babysitting resources. The goal is to help the candidate and their commitment throughout the industry, regardless A MONTHLY REPORT family to transition into the new area with as little stress and distraction so that they of geography. HR can focus on assimilating into the culture and performing their job.

The result is a fi ve-week, 140-hour program that utilizes the standards and materials developed by the N.J. College Offers Retail Training Program NRF to teach students the basics of the service indus- try. Local and national retailers and service providers including Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa, Ecolab, Kmart, By Jeanine Poggi While ACCC offered retail training for three years Lowe’s, Macy’s, Marshall’s Retail Group, The Home at the One Stop Center in Atlantic City, the new lo- Depot, Trump Entertainment and Wyndham Resorts NEW YORK — Attracting qualified candidates and cation at Hamilton Mall provides students with the have committed to hiring graduates who meet their keeping them in the retail and service industry is not ability to directly interact and learn from possible qualifi cations. Executives from these fi rms also serve an easy task for employers in a sector that has one of employers. as guest speakers and mentors. the highest employee turnover rates. “The Hamilton Mall is a great place for us to be locat- The program provides students with a retail readi- Atlantic Cape Community College in New Jersey has ed,” Owens said. “Transportation in the area is diffi cult ness assessment test, computer training, career coun- one solution. It has teamed with the National Retail and the mall is the one place that is a meeting ground for seling, job bank and fairs, as well as workshops. ISE Federation to offer training to future retail employees, families and is a gathering place for the community.” also offers training for people currently in the industry a program that focuses on improving customer service With help from Kravco-Simon Development Corp., who are looking to advance in their career. There are and at the same time providing jobs to the unemployed. which operates Hamilton Mall and provided a fi ve- 21 students currently enrolled in the program. ACCC unveiled its Institute for Service Excellence at year lease with all accompanying costs, as well as do- “If we have done our job right, there will be a per- the Hamilton Mall in Mays Landing last month. It is one nations from local organizations, the college was able ceptible change in customer service,” Mance said. of the 24 training programs sponsored by the NRF. to rebuild a vacant space in the mall. “Sales associates will sell better, which retailers will “The emerging retail industry is the next step in The 4,000-square-foot space, located in the corner be happy about since it helps the bottom line.” Atlantic Cape’s development,” said Patricia Owens, of the mall near Sears, houses two classrooms, a com- The goal of programs like ISE is to help decrease dean of continuing education and resource develop- puter lab, conference room, resource room and offi ces the turnover rate of sales associates, which will save ment at the college. for full-time staff and part-time instructors. employers time and money, as well as make people “I believe overall [retail] employees do not have Four years ago, ACCC partnered with the Atlantic aware of retail careers. enough training,” said Kathy Mance, vice president at Cape May Workforce Investment Board to determine “Retailing does not have to be solely a summer or part- NRF. “People do not understand retailing. You can’t how the school could further help those who are un- time job,” Mance said. “This training can be the beginning walk off the street and get a job in retail and do well. employed or underemployed in the area while assist- of a career path in retail and help sales associates move to There are standards and industry credentials.” ing local retailers. management positions or other aspects of retail.”

“The changes are ongoing and will be for some time,” he said. Separately, RetailWeek.com reported last week that Gap’s London headquarters Job Cutbacks at Gap, Kellwood would eliminate some positions, including some redundancies, and is expected to make an announcement to staff about the European team restructure on Tuesday. ap Inc. on Thursday pulled the trigger on a round of layoffs, which are hap- It is unclear whether store staff will be affected by the review. Gpening in waves, domestically and internationally, sources said Friday. Gap de- The company continues to search for a chief executive offi cer to take over for clined to disclose the extent of the layoffs. interim president and ceo Robert Fisher. Egon Zehnder International was hired to Meanwhile, Kellwood Co. is closing its Chico, Calif., distribution center, laying conduct the search. off about 150 low-level employees. Kellwood plans to gradually phase out the former Koret facility in Chico be- At Gap Inc., sources said Old Navy was hit with the latest cuts, including tween July 13 and Aug. 31. It will divert clothing products from Chico to distribution Canadian operations. Production areas seem to be targeted, and some consolida- hubs in City of Industry, Calif., and Trenton, Tenn. tions of certain functions are under way. The $1.96 billion vendor notifi ed the Chico center’s estimated 140 to 160 employ- A senior production executive, Michelle Sizemore, is said to have been let go, ees about three weeks ago that the plant will be shuttered at the end of August. but that could not be confi rmed. “Changes in our business processes requiring less inventory handling and the Gap Inc. spokesman Greg Rossiter said Friday, “As part of the process of sim- economics of this facility led to this decision,” said Jeffery Streader, Kellwood glob- plifying the way we do business and making the company more competitive, some al president, in a statement. “We will be working with the city and county to identify level of job reduction is necessary, as diffi cult as it would be.” other job opportunities for these associates within the community.” He also said the company would not be making any single sweeping announce- UNITE HERE, the garment union representing the workers at Chico’s distribu- ment on cutbacks, and noted Gap had discussed the issue during conference calls. tion hub, is reportedly in talks with St. Louis-based Kellwood, which inherited the He said a number of changes have taken place over the last several weeks, includ- plant when it acquired Koret in 1999, to get the company to change its mind about ing shutting down Forth & Towne, closing a distribution center and converting Old closing the plant as well as severance packages. Navy outlets to Old Navy retail stores. — David Moin and Whitney Beckett BOSTON

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pages of the July 2006 one — 105 pages Bergdorf’s Goes to the Animals compared with 49 — and will set a record for the title’s biggest July issue ever. “It’s ergdorf Goodman has a dif- Nicholas Manville MEMO PAD Vanity Fair, it’s Bono, it’s a special Africa Bferent take on taxidermy issue — this is a very big deal. And it that should please animal lov- LOVE FROM AFRICA: Bono and Vanity Fair refl ects a huge trend in the marketplace, ers. It’s a lively collection of editor in chief Graydon Carter clearly which is social responsibility,” said Edward papier-mâché sculptures of ani- are thinking big when it comes to the Menicheschi, vice president and publisher mal heads by Anne Freisz and magazine’s Africa-themed July issue, of Vanity Fair. Year-to-date, ad pages are Laurent Poumarat, an imagina- which is being guest edited by the rock up 21.5 percent. — Stephanie D. Smith tive and free-spirited artist cou- star-philanthropist. While multiple covers ple from Paris. on magazine issues have become almost BRUCE ALMIGHTY: Are they really going “This is our universe,” said standard, Carter told The New York Times out together? Hard to tell in Bruce Weber’s Poumarat at Bergdorf ’s cock- in March that he was out to do more new campaign for French fashion and tail party Wednesday night, than ever. How many more? Not fi ve, not accessories house Celine, part of the celebrating the collection of 10 — sources close to the title said it LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton some 40 pieces called “Farfelus could publish as many as 20 different empire. The fall spots, featuring actress Fardadets.” “Everything we do covers, all shot by Annie Leibovitz. Though Emmanuelle Seigner, model Bette Franke and is papier-mâché.” it is not known who or what the covers two handsome young men, are loosely Bergdorf ’s display, on the will be, sources believe they will refl ect narrative, showing various members of walls of the seventh floor for Laurent Poumarat and Anne Freisz Africa and its supporters in some way. A the multigenerational group engaged in home, includes dogs, bears, an- spokeswoman for the magazine declined a pillow fi ght, a chase or just hanging telopes and other hairy, horned to comment on the covers. out. “You can’t really tell who is trying creatures with curious and sor- The effort is part of what Bono told The to seduce whom,” says Ivana Omazic, rowful expressions, priced from New York Times in the same March article Celine’s creative director. “But there’s around $1,800 to $2,300. There is his goal of making the July issue “a a lot of innocence in all this. It’s about also are less expensive and best-selling issue of Vanity Fair, I want to having fun together, being happy in the more delicate birds with color- make a hit record.” moment.” Omazic said the campaign is ful feathers. No two pieces are And insiders say Bono has been meant to convey an ageless “joie de vivre” the same. “I think it started a extremely hands-on throughout his tenure and Celine’s relaxed, woman-friendly style long time ago with a donkey. We — editing story drafts and headlines and — and Weber fi t the bill perfectly. “He’s very much appreciate nature,” even giving feedback on photography. one of the few people in the world who added Freisz. There is also a He’s also been very vocal about stories can keep a sense of elegance with the grouping of papier-mâché musi- he supports. Insiders describe him as a spontaneity of real life,” she said. “He cal instruments. pleasure to work with, as well as smart works very instinctively.” Serge Brunschwig, Their creations have ap- PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY and down-to-earth. Perhaps it helps that Celine’s chief executive offer, said the peared in the Paris storefronts of this isn’t the fi rst guest-editing gig he’s budget for the fall-winter campaign is Christian Lacroix, Bonpoint, Bon Marché, Rochas, Yves Saint Laurent and Chopard; had: Bono performed similar duties at The “signifi cantly up” versus a year ago, the Four Seasons Hotel in Paris; in the movie “Marie Antoinette,” and in the embassy Independent in London and the French allowing for more double-page placements in Kenya for the Minister of Foreign Affairs. Bergdorf’s collection marks the debut of newspaper Libération. to better convey the campaign’s visual the couple’s work in America. While newsstand sales will determine tale. “It’s quite an important move for the “We’ve done a strong business with taxidermy, but at Bergdorf’s we do have our whether or not Bono has crafted a “hit brand,” he said. Omazic hinted she hopes whimsical or experimental side,” said Nicholas Manville, the store’s vice president record” for the monthly, at least he won’t to continue collaborating with Weber. “For and divisional merchandise manager of decorative home. “This is a friendly, conver- be disappointed in the advertising. The me, it’s the beginning of the story,” she sational collection,” Manville said. issue will carry more than double the ad said. — Miles Socha — David Moin Industry Jobs Take Hit in May By Evan Clark WASHINGTON — U.S. textile and apparel producers and depart- ment stores cut payrolls in May, bucking the broader trend that added 157,000 jobs across the economy. Unemployment stayed at 4.5 percent. Compared with April, domestic apparel producers shed a season- ally adjusted 2,100 jobs to employ 219,600, as textile mills trimmed payrolls by 1,500 to 173,300 and textile product mills reduced head counts by 1,100 to 155,500, the Labor Department said Friday. Squeezed by the rise of powerhouse manufacturers in China and STYLE elsewhere, domestic producers, particularly apparel factories, have been losing jobs for years. Department stores were squeezed last month, shedding 4,100 jobs for a total of 1.6 million. The decline came after an 11,000 dip STARTS in employment in April for the sector, which is in the midst of a challenging competitive environment and the conversion of 400 for- mer May Co. doors to the Macy’s nameplate. Apparel and accessories stores joined in the broader employ- HERE. ment trend, adding 900 positions in May for a total of 1.5 million. Economists watch job fi gures closely, since two-thirds of the econ- omy is supported by consumer spending and people are likely to cut back on purchases if they feel their jobs might be in jeopardy. • 5 days a week Monday through Friday “The consumer, we’d say, has been quite bulletproof,” said Michael Englund, principal director and chief economist at Action • Morning hand-delivery* Economics, pointing out that spending has continued through the slowdown in the housing sector. • Color photographs A strong stock market and income growth has boosted consum- er confi dence, he said. The S&P 500 index hit an all-time high • WWDSCOOP (4 issues per year) last week. Gas prices are also near all-time highs, with a gallon of regular • Spring and Fall issues of WWD The Magazine selling for an average of $3.18 on Friday, according to the American Automobile Association. • Annual market supplements Although many consumers continue to spend, there might be a problem down the line. “Through the fi rst four months of this year, households are spending down their savings at twice the rate of the same period Get all of this and so much more. last year, with 2007 set to be the unprecedented third consecutive year of dis-savings,” Charles McMillion, president and chief econo- Subscribe to WWD today! mist at MBG Information Services, wrote in an analysis. McMillion also warned that the recent evolution of the workforce Simply call 1-800-289-0273 or 1-818-487-4526. is a danger to growth. “Job growth in May, while much better than in recent months, You can also subscribe online at www.subnow.com/wd/ad remains concentrated in those industries that are not generally ex- posed to outsourcing or import competition and do not export,” he *Buildings in NYC with delivery access only. said. “The worsening defi cit in global trade continues to undermine U.S. production and growth.” The U.S. trade defi cit reached a record $763.6 billion last year, with almost one-third of it because of trade with China. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 21 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

real estate suppliers opportunities recruitment travel Reach top-level decision-makers in retail and manufacturing in WWD Marketplace.

Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. Source: WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005. 22 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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BIFLEX INTIMATES GROUP Technical Designer Bras and Daywear Must have experience in technical design, be a team player, have a strong sense of urgency, excellent communication skills w/ overseas factories, Excel, PLM, Illustrator, and familiar with tech packs. Competitive salary and benefits. HANDBAGS Fax resume to 212-696-3474 Independent Salespeople PRODUCTION MGR Luxury Handbag & Accessory Company seeks Sales Reps LUXURY ACCESSORY Oversee all aspects of production. De- tail orientated, strong follow up with BUYER overseas factories. Computer literate, Only those with existing Better Department Store & Specialty technical specing, fabric and garment knowledge are a must. Salary com- Store relationships need apply. Target markets are Los Angeles, Leading European luxury accessory mensurate with experience. & leather goods brand is expanding Please email resume to: New York, Las Vegas, Hawaii, Dallas, Chicago, and Florida. in the United States. We are con- [email protected] ducting a search for an experienced [email protected] Production Mgr to $90K. Chinese/Eng Please respond to: Accessory Buyer to build and drive biling req’d. Strong knowl of construction the business in the US market. The of garments/fabric. Supervise 4. Travel to ideal candidate should have 4-5 China 2x a yr. Mdtn. [email protected] years of multi-store accessory Replenishment Planner $50-65K Min 1 buying experience with a strong yr exp with re-orders to Wal-Mart or understanding of planning and mer- Target or Kohls etc. SKU intensive. Accessories Product/Design Mgr to Excel. Midtwn co. [email protected] $125K. Current exp in dealing w/ chandising. Disney or Nickelodeon licenses & SALES ASSISTANT managing min 4 designers. Hard goods PLEASE SEND RESUME INCLUDING exp. req’d. Mdtn. [email protected] SALARY REQUIREMENTS TO: /ADMINISTRATIVE [email protected] ROSETTI HANDBAGS RETAILERS & License Division Due to Promotion, Position Immediate. MANUFACTURERS MILLINER We need an individual coming Experience required. Must be able to from a wholesale or retail fashion DISTRIBUTION SERVICE hand & machine sew. Some computer background with 2+ yrs. experience. skills necessary. E-mail resume to: [email protected] Requirements: •Pick & Pack Services Highly motivated and extremely •Apparel & Hardgoods Accountant Chief Financial Officer $150- Design Office Mgr (Apparel) organized to assist with major dept 200K BOE. Current exp in apparel co. store type accounts, detail oriented •Consolidation Services WANTED: Established and highly regarded with ability to multi-task. •Established 1977 that does min 50 mill vol req’d. Strong Sportswear company, located in Soho, relationships with banks /factors. Mdtn co. KNIT FABRIC SPECIALIST seeks an organized person with the Diversified Responsibilities Include: •Prestigious Client List Email: [email protected] ability to multi task. Ideal candidate • Interaction with sales, •Great Management Team Fast paced Knit sportswear company should have a firm grasp on retail / customers and production •Dedicated Hardworking Employees Asst Showroom Mgr looking for an energetic experienced person wholesale finance. Minimum 2 years • P/C, Spreadsheet (Excel) Looking for hardworking person. Re- with knowledge of knit fabrics and domestic experience. This position has great • Showroom Functions and overseas mills. Computer skills a sponsibilities include keeping showroom potential for growth. Quickbooks, Excel, Great opportunity to work in a profes- CALL: Rob Kennedy in shape, managing sample room & must Word, Outlook and retail point of sale Please fax resume to 212-947-7218 sional and team oriented environment. (201)865-1100 working w/ sales. Must have 2 yr college exp a plus. Fax resume to 212.274.8997 Email to: [email protected] degree & 2 yrs work (PT or FT). Oppty for advancement. Please send resume: EXECUTIVE LEMI’S STUDIO Box#M 1016 PATTERNMAKER SAMPLEMAKER c/o Fairchild Classified ASSISTANT TO CFO Computer (PAD) Pattern Design Services Major garment manufacturer seeks Major apparel company seeks girls HANDBAGS 1 Stop Complete. Marker/Grading/Cutting 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl patternmaker sizes 4-16. Must have Handbag Mfr. is seeking an exp’d. New York, NY 10017 executive administrative assistant to Fast & Good Sample Sewing. 20 Year . assist CFO in diversified functions. children’s experience. Athletic experi- SAMPLEMAKER. Call: 212-239-4650 [email protected] (213) 748-8189 Great computer skills needed - Excel, ence a plus. Temporary okay. Please Bookkeeper Accounts Receivable $35- fax resume to: 212-730-9705 40K. Exp in collections, chargebacks, Word, Power Point. Must be very detailed SOURCING DIRECTOR/$150-$170k++ & highly organized with good communi - For mjr. NYC apparel co. cash applications. Midtown company. Planner/Forecaster $70-85K. Current exp Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Word. Excel. [email protected] cation skills. Excellent salary & benefits. Must have hands-on Global sourcing No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Please fax resume to: 212-202-7897 in SKU profiling analysis for max sales expr. Men’s/Boy’s apparel for Wal-Mart, Call CLOTHES-OUT: Bookkeeper F/C - Assistant Controller to be achieved. Replenishment timeta- etc. Must be based in NY metro area. (937) 898-2975 $50-60K. Min 4 years exp in apparel co. Graphic Designers bles. Mdtn co. [email protected] E-mail resume: [email protected] required. Assist CFO. Computerized. Major mfr seeks highly creative indi- Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 PATTERN/SAMPLES Midtown. [email protected] viduals w/ 3+ yrs exp to work with PRODUCTION ARTIST Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast designers. Must be proficient in Illus- A leading women’s intimate apparel work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Sourcing/Production Computer Pattern Maker trator, Photoshop w/ excellent color company seeks a highly motivated & Eric Javits Inc located in Long Island City Large ladies apparel firm seeks pat- sense & trend direction. Should be Patterns/Samples/Production hard working production artist to join seeks person with min 3-5 years exp to tern maker with 2-3 years experience team player & work well under pres- their team. Must be organized, detail- support all phases of overseas production. Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening using the Optitex Pattern Design sure. Responsibilities incl: final art & oriented & well-versed in creating half Gowns custom made & wholesale. Product development and sourcing in CLOSE OUTS system. Must be able to make knit & packages. Excellent salary & benefits. drop repeats & preparing art for accessories a must. Key responsibilities Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 woven styled garments in diversified Pls email resume to: [email protected] We Buy Men’s, production. Proficient in Illustrator & include developing specs, measuring/ categories of ladies sportswear line. Photoshop. E-mail or fax resume to: evaluating samples, recording all styling Women’s & Children’s PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Please fax resume to: 212-556-5453 Graphic Designer [email protected]/212-696-8450 changes and communicating them to All Quantities PRODUCTIONS Designer $100-125K BOE. Current exp Young Energetic Company seeks factories. Computer proficiency (excel, WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. in swimwear req’d. Juniors or ladies or graphic designer w/ minimum 3 years PRODUCTION ASST word, outlook), strong organizational experience in the fashion industry. We are nice people to deal with Call Sherry 212-719-0622. kids ok. Midtown company. Opportunity for Advancement! and follow up skills a must. Email: [email protected] Juniors Intimates and Sleepwear is Major home furnishings company seeks Email resume with salary req to: Also HBA and General Merchandise. preferred. Must have knowledge of a detail oriented individual. Benefits [email protected] Call Rocky 800-762-5488 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Designer $110-125K BOE. Current exp trends, color and fashion. Must be available. Please email resume to: PRODUCTIONS in urban collection. Must hang w/ Roc detail oriented, be able to multi task, [email protected] SWEATER TECH Full service shop to the trade. Sweat, ECKO, Baby Phat, South Pole etc. work efficiently and work well with Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Email: [email protected] others. Salary commensurate with exp. Please email resume to: Production Manager /DESIGNER Designer $85-110K BOE. Current exp [email protected] Fast paced licensed gift and room Private label importer of sweaters & cut PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD in Junior driven tweens. Knit tops. décor company looking for detail and sew knits requires exp’d person to High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Private label. Illustrator /Photoshop. Import Coord $45-48K oriented production manager. Respon- handle all aspects of garment from initial sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 973-564-9236 or [email protected] sibilities include tracking orders and concept to first proto & oversee pro- LC’s, Custom Brokers, Negotiate Rates duction samples. Must have knowledge [email protected] 212-947-3400 production samples, daily communica- REDUCE YOUR DESIGNER tion with factories, design, sales and of yarns, sourcing, sweater construction. shipping. Must have 3-5 years experi- Sketching, specing and strong factory Central Park West MANAGEMENT OPPTYS communication skill a must. SHIPPING COSTS! Women’s contemporary co. seeks an ence. Hard goods knowledge a big We are a Garment Manufacturer seeking Newark NJ - location plus. Must be fluent in Chinese. Please fax resume to: (212) 471-0330 or to share shipping costs. We have a associate designer with Photoshop, Co. provides transportation from LIRR Email: Marc@brandonthomas ltd.com Illustrator and flat sketching skills. Send resume in confidence to: state of the art distribution center located Major accessory co. seeks: [email protected] in Secaucus, New Jersey. Clean, Must be able to multi-task in a fast- * Mgr Inventory/Receiving - 60,000 paced environment & be a team player. Tech Designer $75-100K BOE. Strong organized, computerized and seeking * Cred Mgr-Lg vol Exp w/all Retail $70-75K current exp. in swimwear or intimate other garment companies to share Please fax resumes to: 212-840-5047 [email protected] Production Manager Attn: Jessica apparel. Midtown company. shipping costs with us. We ship and Ladies constructed sportswear company Email: [email protected] receive domestic and foreign product. MARKETING MANAGER is seeking the right candidate to head To discuss this opportunity, please DESIGNER (ASSOCIATE) Production Pattern Department; with a contact Joann at 212-869-3300, x332 Fast paced childrenswear company is NYC Intimate Apparel Co. seeks Pro. large volume of private label. Candidate TECH DESIGNER or email: [email protected] seeking a creative person specializing for their marketing division. Marketing should have 10 years experience and Women’s Outerwear Tech Designer with in layette, newborn and infant girls knowledge of lectra. Must have good exp. req’d, web/digital media a plus. 5-10 years experience. Should be proficient and boys. Must be able to give direction Growth to Brand Mgr. Email resume: comm. skills and have the ability to Search For Space In Garment Center to art staff. Illustrator and Photoshop a [email protected] manage a staff of 7 pattern makers. in Illustrator, PDM and all related programs. Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee must. Great oppty with benefits. Fax Email: Arlene. [email protected] Product development and design skills www.midcomre.com resume to: 212-967-8631 Att: MN or Fax: 201-761-0392 required. Good oral and follow up com- email: [email protected] Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 MERCHANDISER munication with Asian suppliers. Major apperal co seeks merchandiser PRODUCTION MANAGER DESIGNER for men’s & boys athletic wear. Respon- Fax resume to Weatherproof®: Showrooms & Lofts sibilities include planning the line, Well-known Handbag Co. seeks an exp’d (646) 878-1370 BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS High volume childrenswear company Production Manager. Responsibilities in- seeks 4-16 designer specializing in shopping the market, making presen- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail clude: working closely w/ the designer to Technical Designer $40-50K. Exp in ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 girls private label. Must be able to give tations & directing designers. Excellent salary and benefits. produce the desired look, facilitating tech packages sent to Far East. direction to art staff. Illustrator and problem solving, & addressing issues in a Photoshop required. Great Oppty! Please fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 Chinese or Korean bilingual required. time-sensitive manner. This individual Midtown Co. [email protected] Send resume to: 212.967.8631 Att: MN www.adjmi.com will communicate with all vendors to en- or email: [email protected] sure a smooth development & production TECHNICAL DESIGNERS $HI MERCHANDISER process. College degree & min. 2-5 yrs 1) Missy-Jrs.-Kids 2) C/S Knits or Wovens DESIGN / MERCH MGR exp in Product Development/ Production OFFICE SPACE AVAILABLE Perfect opportunity for a well organ- Midtown NYC Sportswear Co. seeks an 3) Sweaters 4) All Level Positions area required. Must have exp working with Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) Immediate office space available in ized self starter with a desire for exp’d. Merchandiser with knowledge of overseas & domestic factories, and knowl- our Showroom. Prime garment build- growth and advancement for the Gen Jrs. market. Product consists primarily edge of handbag construction, costing & of Knit & Woven Tops. Illustrator & Technical Designer to $65K BOE. ing with all office services available. Merch Div of well est’d accessories co patternmaking. Salary commensurate w/ Current exp in woven Jr. bottoms and Email for inquiries: (midtown location). Overseas travel Photoshop savvy is a big plus. E-mail experience. resumes: hr@#diversifiedapparel.com tops req’d. Able to spec from sketch. [email protected] required. Fax resume: 201-435-8779 Email: [email protected] Midtown Jr. co. [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 4, 2007 23

SALES e-mail: [email protected] Technical Designer to $95K. Exp in wo- Corporate Gift Mgr/ Min 3 yrs exp $100k ven womens outerwr. Downs, microfiber IRIS Nat’l District Mgr/ Retail fashion co $80k+ etc. Send tech pkgs to China. Proficient Brand Mgr/Fragrances exp a must $80k+ on Illustrator. Mdtn. [email protected] Luxury Multi-brand Shoe Store, opening 1st New York boutique, is seeking: Store Mgrs/Hi-end (fashion/design) $65k+ ASSISTANT STORE MANAGER: Responsible for sales, building customer relationships, inventory control (receiving SALESPERSON and processing shipment). Other duties include assisting Store Manager with Alexis Bittar, Inc. seeks salesperson for TRIM SOURCING specialty domestic and international maintaining employees, planning weekly schedules, and visual merchandising. 2-5 accounts including Japan. Must have 5 COORDINATOR years experience in high-end shoe sales necessary; excellent interpersonal skills, years experience in wholesale luxury Charles Komar & Sons, a major sleep- computer knowledge, and retail math required. Luxury fashion background preferred. market. Competitive salary and benefits wear manufacturer, seeks a highly package. No phone calls please. Email motivated, detail oriented individual resumes to: [email protected] with knowledge of trims. Min 1-3 years FULL TIME SALES: RETAIL MANAGER experience, will train. Responsibilities Minimum 2 - 4 years luxury retail experience required (women’s shoes/accessories include sourcing and development for preferred). Weekend availability is a must. Luxury fashion background preferred Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita is offering an exciting market samples, follow up with over- seas and domestics factories, follow up We offer an exciting & collaborative culture with competitive salary and benefits. opportunity managing six new luxury boutiques in prestigious on bulk orders for production. Great Punta Mita, Mexico. Our ideal candidate has luxury retail opportunity with a growing company! Candidates who wish to be considered are requested to please Fax or E-mail a Please fax resume with salary req’s cover letter and resume along with salary history to: management experience, possesses exceptional people to: 212-685-4341, Attn: Shelley 212-465-8577 / [email protected] leadership and communication skills, and is able to interact w/ the most sophisticated level of customers. Spanish a plus. SALESPERSON Account Executive-Kids Please forward resume to Rebeca Selley at Est’d. Women’s Wear Apparel Mfr., special- [email protected] izing in servicing mail order catalog companies, seeks an exp’d. In-House Salesperson with strong contacts with Danskin, Inc., well established active private label, catalog companies. Great apparel co. has an immediate opening Bonpoint, the international retailer opportunity for growth; competitive for exp’d Account Executive to manage salary/benefits. Fax resume: 646-405-0168 major dept. store accounts. Strong, of luxury childrenswear, seeks min of 5 years, background selling for its 2 Madison Ave. boutiques children’s wear req’d. Active wear exp RETAIL STORE MANAGER a plus. Strong retail math, planning & and new store on Bleecker street: Key Account Sales to $250K+++ BOSP. Upscale Women’s Boutique in Miami’s Current exp in girls 4-16 sptswr. W/ Accessory Sales account management skills a must. present relationships Target or Kohl’s or Est’d. top trend Fashion Jewelry Co. seeks Based in New York. Travel is req’d. Com- dynamic financial district seeks a Retail Cato or dept. stores etc. Private label an individual with a minimum of 3 years petitive compensation & benefits pkge. SALES ASSOCIATES Store Manager with a passion for fashion. or branded ok. Est. mdtn company. Accessory Sales experience. Must main- E-mail or Fax resumes to: Responsibilities include: training & main- _ 973-564-9236 or [email protected] tain accounts, have excellent follow-thru hr [email protected] or taining employees, planning weekly sched- (212) 930-9103. Candidates must have a minimum skills, great customer interaction and ules, receiving & processing shipments, Fashion Jewelry Rep report to senior VP sales and marketing. EOE/M/F/D/V of 2 years High-End Retail Extensive line. Mid-Atlantic area. Must have a passion for accessories. building client relationships & visual Management/Sales Experience, merchandising. Incredible room for 20% commission. Experienced only Please E-mail all resumes to: E-mail: [email protected] Sales Account Exec [email protected] Large childrenswear company has 2 excellent interpersonal skills growth and potential for promotion! openings for 4-16 existing account base: Candidates must have 2-5 yrs. retail JCPenny, Target, and other mass mer- and superior customer service. experience, a proven track record driving chants. Must have full understanding Accessory Sales Luxury goods experience a plus. sales, excellent customer service & strong INDEPENDENT SALES REPS of approval process. Domestic travel Handbag and Accessory company operational skills. LANA FUCHS COUTURE, a Las required. Great oppty with benefits. seeking a Salesperson for branded Vegas based Luxury Women’s and Fax resume to: 212-967-8631 Att: MN We offer competitive salary Please email resumes to: accessories. Excellent Growth Oppty! [email protected] Children’s Apparel Company seeks In- or email to: [email protected] Email: [email protected] and full benefits package. dependent Sales Reps with strong, well est’d contacts with Dept. Stores, Nat’l Chains, and Specialty Boutiques. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Please send your resume to: Email: [email protected] Sales Associate Handbag co. seeks Los Angeles based or Tel: 1-888-88-FUCHS. Start-up high end women’s design ROAD person to further develop So. Email: [email protected] house seeks an exp’d aggressive and Ca. Terr. Based in yr own home offc, motivated Sales Assoc. Must have well we seek a self-motivated person who is or Fax: (212) 246-3293 Regional Sales Reps est’d National and International rela- able to work independently and travel extensively. Pos. requires knowledge Rapidly expanding line of CASHMERE tionship with Dept & Specialty Stores. SWEATERS. Must have a following Strong computer and follow-up skills. of better specialty boutiques and 2-5 www.bonpoint.com yrs sales experience. Send resume and in your territory. Fax: 256-264-0215 or Fax / Email resume to: 212-239-0142 or E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] salary req. : [email protected]

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