Natural

Low-Cost PEG-Free

Emulsifier

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®

Sunflower-Derived Emulsifier

APPLICATIONS is a low-cost, versatile, sunflower-derived o/w

Skin Care emulsifier.

creams Benefits: • Low cost • Easy to handle particles • PEG-free • Low odor and color • HLB independent • Oxidatively stable butters • Preservative free • Sensory appeal

day • Biodegradable • Liquid crystal structure

night moisturizers Formulating:

How to Use: Add Emulsun® to the oil phase. Heat both sunscreens the oil and aqueous phases to 75-80°C. Combine the oil and aqueous phases with moderate to rapid mixing after sun care or homomixing. Reduce mixing speeds at temperatures below 60°C. When adding other anti-aging Tested Emulsun ingredients (e.g. fragrance, Ingredients1 Constraints Loading preservatives, etc.) below Triglyceride Oils, , 15 - 40% / 2 - 8% baby care 40°C, disperse briefly with Mineral Oil, Silicones 2 - 20%2 slow to moderate mixing, as Organic UV Filters up to 20% 3 - 7%

over mixing may cause a loss 2 Hair Care TiO2, ZnO up to 15 - 20% 4 - 7% of viscosity. up to 10% --- pH 4 - 11 --- conditioners Emulsun Ease of Addition: Synthetic Gelling Agents, is an easy to handle spherical Hydroxyethylcellulose, 0.1 - 0.5% 1 - 4% Xanthan Gum hair masks particle. The free-flowing up to 7% / Menthol -- particles improve dosing up to 10%2

precision from bench-top 1 >1% electrolytes may disturb the Emulsun system. A thickener is formulations to large-scale suggested. INCI 2 With the use of a thickener (e.g. xanthan gum). production lines. The Emulsun Hydrogenated Sunflower particle form also offers Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated an increased surface area compared to flakes or pellets. This allows Emulsun to be Sunflower Seed Oil efficiently melted and blended. This increases throughput, lowers heating requirements, Glyceryl Esters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) and creates a greener production process. Stearoyl Lactylate Compatibility: Emulsun is compatible with natural and synthetic oils, esters, silicones, ethanol, sunscreens and thickeners. Sunflower-Derived Emulsifier ® Origin: Emulsun is derived from sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oil, which has demonstrated a low irritation potential in personal care and for centuries. Sunflower is also sustainable; it is grown with low and fertilizer inputs, and is often rotated with other food crops to maintain soil fertility. Chemistry: Emulsun is composed of monoesters of sunflower oil, which contain high amounts of stearic and . The sunflower oil used to create Emulsun undergoes an innovative refining process to preserve the sunflower wax- and fatty alcohol components. Sunflower wax-esters have a unique botanical composition with carbon lengths C38-C50. The associated fatty alcohols are equally unique and range from C16-C30 in chain length. The monoesters form a liquid crystal structure which decreases surface tension and strongly promotes emulsification.

Emulsun INCI

Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Glyceryl Esters Provides emolliency + emulsification Provides emolliency + secondary emulsification + stabilization

O O HO O O O HO O OH OH OH OH

Cetearyl Alcohol Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Provides stabilization Provides emulsification

OH O O Na+ O- O O O

HLB Independent: Unlike PEG type emulsifiers that have limited HLBs, the unique ingredients of Emulsun are engineered to work together to emulsify a range of rHLBs making it suitable for a variety of applications.

Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

lipophilic hydrophilic

Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Oil Glyceryl Esters Emulsification Build Viscosity

Emulsun Loading Level vs. Viscosity

400000 2:1 (Oil:Emulsun) Liquid Crystal Structure: 350000 5:1 (Oil:Emulsun)

The sunflower-derived 300000 monoglycerides and polyglyceride esters form a synergetic crystalline 250000 structure that can create microemulsions. The specific 200000 combination of the hydrophilic (cP) Viscosity and hydrophobic structures in 150000 Emulsun generates a self-assembling hexagonal liquid crystal phase with 100000 oil in water formulations that can be pH = 7 witnessed during cooling. 50000 0% 3% 6% 9% 12% 15%

Emulsun Liquid Crystal Structure Emulsun Loading Level Emulsun can be used at reasonable loading levels, between a ratio of 2:1 and 5:1 (Oil:Emulsun), to build the viscosity of stable1 formulas with up to 40% oil (without the use of secondary emulsifiers or thickeners). Emollient Compatibility

Viscosity vs. rHLB

40x magnification/90° cross polarization Mineral Oil 7 Isononyl Isononoanoate Floraesters 15 Floramac 10

Floramac Macadamia Oil Octyldodecanol Usage Range for Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Florasun 90 Stable :

Typical Usage Levels = 3-8% 6

rHLB Olive Oil Dimethicone (20cs) Typical Oil Loading Levels = 15-40%

Unless otherwise stated, the oil phase in the lotions / creams included sunflower oil, 6% Emulsun macadamia oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride Dimethicone (350cs) pH = 6.5-7.5 oil, ethyl macadamiate, jojoba esters, and isononyl isononanoate; and the water phase included 2% glycerin. 5 0 50000 100000 150000 200000

1 Stable for 12 weeks at 4°C, room Viscosity (cP) temperature, and 43°C, in addition to 3 cycles of freeze / thaw. Emulsun (6%) is compatible with a variety of emollients (20%) with a range 2 Stable for 2 weeks at 50°C and for 3 cycles of rHLBs from 4-9. Emulsun is also compatible with sunscreens and up of freeze / thaw. to 10% ethanol. Use Emulsun to create stable2 formulas with a range of emollients. Performance ® Build Viscosity Achieve Target Viscosity

Oil Loading Level vs. Viscosity Emulsun Loading Level vs. Viscosity

250000 250000

200000 200000

150000 Viscosity (cP) Viscosity

150000 (cP) Viscosity 6% Emulsun 100000 20% Oil pH = 7 pH = 7

100000 50000 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 4% 6% 8% 10% Oil Loading Level Emulsun Loading Level

The viscosity can be tailored by adjusting the Emulsun loading level (with 20% oil) or the oil loading level (with 6% Emulsun), without the use of thickeners. Emulsun is versatile and gives formulators a variety of rheology options for stable1 formulations. pH Compatibility Sensory Appeal

pH vs. Viscosity Softness Wetness*

5 250000

4

3 Spreadability* 200000 6% Emulsun Hydration 8% Emulsun 2 10% Emulsun 1

150000 Viscosity (cP) Viscosity 100000 Greasiness Texture*

50000

20% Oil Stickiness Transparency*

0 4 6 8 10 12 pH 3% Emulsun + 15% Oil (medium texture ) 7% Emulsun + 15% Oil (heavy cream)

Emulsun can be used to create stable2 formulas from Adjusting the Emulsun loading level can also be used to pH 4-11. modify product aesthetics. (*p<0.05) Thickener Compatibility

150000

Although A Emulsun does not require a thickener to 120000 create a stable B formula like many other natural emulsifiers, it is compatible with natural and synthetic thickeners. 90000 C

D Viscosity (cP) Viscosity

E ® A - 0.15% Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer F B - 0.15% Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer 60000 C - 0.50% Natrosol ® 250 HR CS D - 0.30% Keltrol ® CG E - 0.30% Aristoflex ® AVC 5:1 Oil:Emulsun F - No Thickener (Emulsun only) pH = 6.5-7.5

30000 Formulators have the option of thickeners3 5% 10% 15% 20% that are compatible with Emulsun which Oil Loading Level can be used to build viscosity and create stable2 formulas with low oil loading levels.

Outperforms

Emulsifier (E) % E % Oil Stable Viscosity (cP) % E % Oil Stable Viscosity (cP) Emulsun 6 pass 100250 8 pass 234125 Cetearyl Alcohol / 6 fail --- 8 fail --- Ceteareth-20 9 fail --- 15 fail --- Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan 6 fail --- 8 pass4 258125 Olivate Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran 20 40 Polyglyceryl-3 Esters / Glyceryl 6 fail --- 8 fail --- Stearate / Cetearyl Alcohol / Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-100 4 pass 68667 95 fail --- Stearate

Emulsun outperforms standard o/w emulsifiers by providing stable1 formulas with comparable viscosities.

1 Stable for 12 weeks at 4°C, room temperature, and 43°C, in addition to 3 cycles of freeze / thaw. 2 Stable for 2 weeks at 50°C and for 3 cycles for freeze / thaw. 3 Carbopol, Natrosol, Keltrol, and Aristoflex are registered trademarks of The Lubrizol Corp., Ashland, Inc., CP Kelco, and Clariant Corp., respectively. 4 Not freeze / thaw stable. 5 Also included 3% cetearyl alcohol. Clinical Studies ® Dermatologic Efficacy Increase Skin Hydration and Decrease TEWL 60%

A Emulsun outperforms standard o/w 50% emulsifiers by:

• increasing skin hydration 40% D • maintaining barrier function E

30% A - 6% Emulsun B C

B - 6% Cetearyl Alcohol / Ceteareth-20 20% C - 6% Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate D - 6% Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters / Glyceryl Stearate / Cetearyl Alcohol / Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 10%

E - 6% Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-100 Stearate / Cetearyl Alcohol Percent Change in Skin Hydration from Baseline 0% 4 hours Consumer Perception Increase Sensory Appeal

Wetness 5

4 N e Hydration* Spreadability o u 3 W id hit es 2 e R

1 Emulsun allowed for the creation of similar product Greasiness* Texture aesthetics, with less greasiness and more perceived hydration, than other o/w emulsifiers. (*p<0.05)

Stickiness Transparency

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6% Emulsun + 20% Oil (heavy lotion) 6% Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate + 20% Oil (heavy lotion) Scan the QR code for Claim Substantiation Floratech.com/ClinicalStudies ®

291 East El Prado Ct. Chandler, Arizona 85225 USA T 480.545.7000 F 480.892.3000

[email protected]

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A GREENER PROCESS

Standard industry production of emulsifiers often utilizes waste material of animal and processing. Emulsun’s proprietary production process utilizes the inherent glyceride backbone of the sunflower triglyceride. This minimizes the processing steps and intermediate reactions, and produces fewer unwanted chemicals, which can disrupt an emulsion. Floratech’s process is much greener and more energy efficient than common production processes. Emulsun is the superior, sustainable emulsifier and allowed for use in naturally certified products and is of 100% natural origin as defined under ISO 16128.

Ingredient information 24/7 with iLabel ©2018, 2021 International Flora Technologies, Ltd., All Rights Reserved.

Ingredient Information

. Floratech, Emulsun and iLabel ® are registered trademarks of International Flora Technologies, Ltd.

While the information provided here is believed to be reliable, Floratech does not guarantee its accuracy. Customers are floratech.com/info encouraged to conduct their own Lot# SAMP129 tests with materials described herein. Printed on 30% post-consumer recycled content