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Gairloch in North-West Ross-Shire - Its Records, Traditions, Inhabitants, and Natural History - with a Guide to Gairloch and Loch Maree and a Map and - Illustrations

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Gairloch in North-West Ross-Shire - Its Records, Traditions, Inhabitants, and Natural History - with a Guide to Gairloch and Loch Maree and a Map and - Illustrations Gairloch In North-West Ross-Shire - Its Records, Traditions, Inhabitants, and Natural History - With A Guide to Gairloch and Loch Maree And a Map and - Illustrations By Scot, F.S.A., Dixon, John H. English A Doctrine Publishing Corporation Digital Book This book is indexed by ISYS Web Indexing system to allow the reader find any word or number within the document. images of public domain material, including material from the Trustees of the National Library of Scotland. [Illustration: FLOWERDALE HOUSE, GAIRLOCH, WEST COAST RESIDENCE OF THE BARONETS OF GAIRLOCH.] GAIRLOCH IN NORTH-WEST ROSS-SHIRE ITS RECORDS, TRADITIONS, INHABITANTS, AND NATURAL HISTORY WITH A GUIDE TO GAIRLOCH AND LOCH MAREE AND A MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS By JOHN H. DIXON, F.S.A. Scot. INCLUDING CHAPTERS BY WILLIAM JOLLY, F.G.S., F.R.S.E.; THE REV. JOHN McMURTRIE, M.A.; AND PROFESSOR W. IVISON MACADAM, F.C.S., F.I.C., M.M.S., &c., EDINBURGH EDINBURGH CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING COMPANY LIMITED 1886 [Entered at Stationers' Hall.] EDINBURGH CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING COMPANY LIMITED, BRISTO PLACE. TO SIR KENNETH S. MACKENZIE, SIXTH BARONET AND THIRTEENTH LAIRD OF GAIRLOCH, AND HER MAJESTY'S LIEUTENANT OF ROSS-SHIRE, Is Dedicated THIS ACCOUNT OF THE ROMANTIC HIGHLAND PARISH WITH WHICH, DURING FOUR CENTURIES, Doctrine Publishing Corporation Digital Book Page 1 HE AND HIS ANCESTORS HAVE BEEN SO INTIMATELY ASSOCIATED. PREFACE. The preparation of the following account of Gairloch has been prompted by regard--almost affection--for this beautiful and interesting Highland parish. It is published in the hope that it may not only assist the tourist, but also be found to constitute a volume worthy of a nook in the great library of local history. Here and there some few general remarks on the subjects dealt with have necessarily been introduced by way of explanation or illustration, but in the main this book relates solely to Gairloch. I have tried to make short chapters, and to dispense with footnotes. Without much assistance the work could not have been satisfactorily completed. The necessary help has been given with the greatest freedom and kindness. Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, has himself furnished much valuable and accurate information, and Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch has kindly assisted. From Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie of Inverewe, youngest son of the late Sir Francis Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, I have received a large amount of personal aid. Much of the information about the Mackenzies has been culled from the works of Mr Alexander Mackenzie (a native of Gairloch) with his consent. He is the able author of a copious history of the Mackenzies and other important books, and the editor of the Celtic Magazine, from which last the memoir of John Mackenzie of the "Beauties" and several of the traditions have been mainly taken. From the MS. "Odd and End Stories" of Dr Mackenzie, Eileanach, only surviving son of Sir Hector Mackenzie, Bart., eleventh laird of Gairloch, numerous quotations will be found. These extracts are published with the consent of Dr Mackenzie, as well as of Mr O. H. Mackenzie to whom he has given his MS. volumes. With one exception, wherever Dr Mackenzie is quoted the extract is taken from his "Odd and End Stories." The Dowager Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch has been so good as to prepare a short statement, from which extracts are made. Dr Arthur Mitchell, C.B., Senior Commissioner in Lunacy for Scotland, has permitted the use of his paper on the Isle Maree superstitions. Mr Jolly has contributed three valuable chapters, and the Rev. J. M'Murtrie and Professor W. Ivison Macadam have each given a chapter. To Mr William Mackay of Craigmonie, Inverness, I am indebted for full notes on ecclesiastical matters, and for extracts from the old records of the Presbytery of Dingwall. The Rev. Alexander Matheson, minister of Glenshiel, has supplied extracts from the records of the Presbytery of Lochcarron. I have to thank Messrs Maclachlan & Stewart, of Edinburgh, who in 1882 brought out a sumptuous edition of the "Beauties of Gaelic Poetry," by the late John Mackenzie, a Gairloch man, for permission to use the accounts of John Mackay (the blind piper), William Ross, William Mackenzie, and Malcolm Maclean, contained in the "Beauties." James Mackenzie, of Kirkton (brother of John Mackenzie of the "Beauties"), has furnished a large chapter of Gairloch stories, besides a number of facts, traditions, and anecdotes; wherever the name of James Mackenzie occurs in these pages, it is this worthy Highlander who is referred to. Other Gairloch traditions, stories, and information have been furnished by Kenneth Fraser, Leac nan Saighead (through the medium of the Celtic Magazine); Alexander Maclennan, Mossbank; Roderick Mackenzie (Ruaridh an Torra), Lonmor; George and Kenneth Maclennan, Tollie Croft; John Maclean (Iain Buidhe Taillear), Strath; Simon Chisholm, Flowerdale; Roderick Campbell, Tollie; Doctrine Publishing Corporation Digital Book Page 2 Donald Ross, Kenlochewe; Alexander Mackenzie (Ali' Iain Ghlass), piper, Poolewe; George Maclennan, Londubh; and Alexander Maclennan (Alie Uistean), Inveran, who especially has given me considerable assistance. The legend of Ewan Mac Gabhar is mainly in the form given in the works of James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, supported to some extent by several of the old people now living in Gairloch. That enthusiastic friend of the Highlander, Professor Blackie, has kindly contributed two English versions of Gaelic songs; and Mr William Clements Good, of Aberdeen, has given similar aid. Professor W. Ivison Macadam has communicated the results of his analyses of ores and slags, and has assisted in examining the remains of the old ironworks. Mr D. William Kemp, of Trinity, Edinburgh, has generously done a very great deal to unravel the history of the ironworks, and in other ways. Lieutenant Lamont, of Achtercairn, has procured the traditions given on the authority of Ruaridh an Torra. Mr Mackintosh, postmaster, Poolewe, has supplied some anecdotes and facts. The Glossary has been prepared with the aid of Mr O. H. Mackenzie; the Rev. Ronald Dingwall, Free Church minister, Aultbea; Mr Alexander Cameron, the Tournaig bard; and Mr Alexander Maclennan, Inveran.The names of some others who have rendered valuable help are stated where their information is utilised.To all these ungrudging helpers, and to many others not mentioned by name, I beg to offer my sincere thanks. To render the natural history of Gairloch complete, lists are still needed of the insects, sea-anemones, grasses, mosses, lichens, fungi, sea-weeds, and fresh-water weeds. Any information on these and other branches of natural history will be heartily welcomed, with a view to insertion in a possible future edition. The process of zincography, by which nearly all the illustrations have been reproduced, has not in many cases realised my expectations, but it has been thought best to issue the book at once rather than wait until the illustrations could be rendered in a superior manner. The profits, if any, from the sale of this book will be applied in aid of the Poolewe Public Hall. JOHN H. DIXON. Inveran, Gairloch, 1st September 1886. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Flowerdale House, West Coast Residence of the Baronets of Gairloch Frontispiece Loch Maree, from Inveran 9 Crosses on the Graves of the Prince and Princess on Isle Maree 10 At Ardlair 15 On Craig Tollie 22 Island or Crannog on Loch Tollie 25 Gairloch, from Strath 35 Doctrine Publishing Corporation Digital Book Page 3 Glen Grudidh, from Loch Maree 42 Beinn Lair, from Fionn Loch 54 Chapel of Sand of Udrigil 70 Sir George Hay, of Megginish, Knight, the Ironfounder of Loch Maree Facing 75 The Minister's Stone, Ardlair 81 Sir George Hay, First Earl of Kinnoull, High Chancellor of Scotland, the Ironfounder of Loch Maree Facing 82 On the Ewe 96 A Mutch 130 Cabar Lar, or Turf Parer 131 Tor-sgian, or Peat Knife 133 Cliabh Moine, or Peat Creel 134 Highland Hand-Plough called Cas-Chrom, or "crooked foot" 135 A Gairloch Man 216 Umbrella Fir, Glas Leitire 305 Above Grudidh Bridge 306 Leth Chreag, Tollie 314 Dunan, on Loch Tournaig 319 Near Grudidh 322 Slioch, from Rudha Aird an Anail 326 Natural Arch, Cove 334 Curious Rocks, Sand of Udrigil 338 Loch Maree, from Ardlair 340 Clach a Mhail, Ardlair 342 Uamh a Mhail, Ardlair 343 ANTIQUITIES From Drawings by Finlay Mackinnon. The numbers correspond with those given on pp. 103, 104. PAGE 1. Bronze Ring, found at Londubh 103 Doctrine Publishing Corporation Digital Book Page 4 2. Hollow Bronze Ring, found at Londubh 104 3. Bronze Spear Head, found, along with a Stag's Horn, near Inverewe House 104 4. Bronze Spear Head, found at Londubh 110 5. Bronze Celt, found at Slatadale 110 6. Stone Celt, found at Cove 113 7. Bronze Spear, found at Croft 117 8. Bronze Celt, found at Londubh 121 9. Stone Implement, found in Peat-Cutting between Inveran and Kernsary 124 10. Quern or Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House at Tournaig 142 11. Fragment of Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House at Tournaig 146 12. Bronze Penannular Ring, found at Londubh 150 13. Cast Iron Appliance, probably part of Machinery, from the Fasagh Ironworks 158 14. Tuyere, from the Fasagh Ironworks 163 NOTES.--The portraits of Sir George Hay, the Ironfounder of Loch Maree, are lithographed reproductions from photographs of pictures in Dupplin Castle, taken by permission of the present Earl of Kinnoull. All the illustrations are original, except No. 12 of the Antiquities, which is reduced from that in Mr Jolly's paper on "Bronze Weapons and other Remains found near Poolewe." The sketches for the illustrations of Flowerdale House and the Natural Arch at Cove are after photographs by Mr Fraser of Reilig.
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