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Engineering, Computing and Applied Sciences, Bobbin and Beaker College of

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The Bobbin and Beaker Vol. 2 No. 1

Clemson University

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c^ ^) BOBBIN &BEAKER ^ OFFICIAL JOUBNHL OF THE GLEMSON TEXTILE SCHOOL .

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Serving Clemson Since 1908 CONGRATULATIONS TOI The Bobbin & Beaker FROM ALL Esso Dealers

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SALES REPRESENTATIVES: NEW ENGLAND SOUTHERN MID ATLANTIC CARL W. SMITH WILLIAM P. VAUGHAN M. LEE BOLTON

HERBERT J. SMITH OLIVER B. LAND TORRENCE L. MAYNARD WILLIAM H. ROSE

THE RIGHT TRAVELER FOR EVERY FIBRE The Bobbin and Beaker Official Textile Student Publication of Clemson A. and M. College

VOLUME 11 JANUARY 1941 NUMBER 1

CONTENTS Page

IN MEMORIUM. _ 3 USEFUL DATA- THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN SOUTH CAROLINA, Prof. G. H. Dunlap_ 5

GOVERNMENT COTTON SPINNING LABORATORY AT CLEMSON COLLEGE. 7 DIFFERENCES IN QUALITY OF RAIN-GROWN AND IRRIGATED COTTON SHOWN BY TESTS 9

SOMETHING ABOUT OUR FACULTY, J. W. Howard, '4L 10

THE EDITORS' PAGE -_ 12

CLEMSON BOASTS MODERN COURSES. : 13

WHERE SOME OF OUR STUDENTS ARE LOCATED- _-. 14

WILLIAM G. ASHMORE, Gordon E. Williams, '42 _. 14

PHI PSI ACTIVITIES, G. W. Kirby, '41 _. 15

N. Y. A. AND THE TEXTILE SCHOOL, M. D. Moore, '43 _. 16

DETERMINING END-BREAKAGE IN SPINNING, William R. O'Shields, '41 _ 17 HISTORY OF RAYON, M. D. Moore, '43 _ 18

CARDERS AND SPINNERS MEET, G. W. Kirby, '41 _ 19 SUMMER EMPLOYMENT, G. W. Kirby, '41 - 20

WOOL—YESTERDAY AND TODAY, J. W. Howard, '41 _ 21

EXECUTIVE STAFF

Wm. R. O'SHIELDS, Editor-in-Chief

A. C. NALLY, Associate Editor W. H. CARDER, Business Manager S. T. JENKINS, Circulation Manager

G. W. KIRBY, Managing Editor E. W. DURHAM, Advertising Manager H. M. BARTON, Asst. Circ. Manager

J. W. HOWARD, Asst. Managing Editor R. T. O'STEEN, Asst. Adv. Manager G. S. WHAM, Publicity Agent

Cover Photo by R. G. HUFFORD ]ln !l)emo!?ium

Dr E. W. Sikes MAY 1868 JANUARY 1941 PAGE FOUR THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JANUARY 1941

Useful Data

To find circumference of a circle multiply Millimeters X .03937 = inches. diameter by 3.1416. Millimeters -^ 25.4 = inches. To find diameter of a circle multiply cir- Centimeters X -393 = inches. cumference by .31831. Centimeters ^- 2.54 = inches. To find area of a circle multiply square of Meters X 39.37 = in. (Act Cong.) diameter by .7854. Meters X 3.28 = feet. To find area of a triangle multiply base by Meters X 1.094 = yards. one-half perpendicular height. Kilometers X -621 = miles. To find surface of a ball multiply square of Kilometers ^- 1.6093 = miles. diameter by 3.1416. Kilometers X 3280.7 = feet. To find solidity of a sphere multiply cube of Square Millimeters X .055 = sq. in. diameter by .5236. Square Millimeters -f- 645 = sq. in. To find cubic inches in a ball multiply cube Square Centimeters X -155 = sq. in. of diameter by 5236. Square Centimeters -^- 645 = sq. in. Doubling the diameter of a pipe increases Square Meters X 10.764 = sq. ft. its capacity four times. Square Kilometers X 247.1 = acres. A gallon of water (U. S. standard) weighs Hectars X 2.47 = acres. 8 pounds, one-third ounce, and contains 231 cubic Cu. Centimeters -^ 16.387 = cu. in. inches. Cu. Centimeters -f- 3.69 = fl. drs. (U. S. P.) Cu. Centimeters -^ 29.57 = fl. ozs. (U. S. P.) A cubic foot of water contains 7 1-2 gallons, Cu. Meters 35.314 = cubic feet. 1,728 cubic inches, and weighs 62 1-2 pounds. X Cu. Meters X 1.308 = cubic yards. To find the pressure in pounds per square Cu. Meters X 264.2 = gallons (231 cu. in.) inch of a column of water multiply the height Litres X 61.023 = cu. in. (Act Congress.) of the column .434. by Litres X 33.84 = fluid oz. (U. S. P.) Litres 2642 = gals. (231 cu. in.) Steam rising from water at its boiling point X Litres -^ 3.78 gals. cu. in.) (212 degrees) has a pressure equal to the at- = (231 mosphere (14.7 pounds to the square inch). Litres ^ 28.317 = cubic feet. Grammes X 15.432 = grains. (Act Congress.) A standard horse power: The evaporation Grammes -^ 981 = dynes. of 30 pounds of water per hour from a feed Grammes (water) -^- 29.57 = fl. oz. water temperature of 100 degrees F. into steam Grammes ^- 28.35 = oz. avoirdupois. at 70 pounds gauge pressure. Grammes per cubic cent, h- 27.7 = lbs. per cu. in. To find capacity of tanks any size ; given dimensions of a cylinder in inches, to find its Joule X .7373 = foot pounds. capacity in U. S. gallons: Square the diameter, Kilo-grammes X 2.2046 = pounds. multiply by the length and by .0034. Kilo-grammes X 35.3 = oz. avoirdupois. Kilo-grammes -f- 1102.3 = tons (2000 lbs.) To ascertain heating surface in tubular boil- Kilo-grammes per sq. cent + 14,223 = lbs. per ers multiply two-thirds the circumference of boil- sq. in. er by length of boiler in inches and add to it the Kilo-gram metres X 7.233 = ft. lbs. area of all the tubes. Kilo per metre X -672 = lbs. per ft. One-sixth of tensile strength of plate multi- Kilo per cubic metre X .026 = lbs. per cubic ft. plied by thickness of plate and divided by one- Kilo perr Cheval X 2.235 = lbs. per H. P. half the diameter of boiler gives safe working Kilo-Watts X 1.35 = Horse Power pressure for tubular boilers. For marine boilers Watts -f- 746 = Horse Power. add 20 percent for drilled holes. Watts -^ 737 = ft. lbs. per second. —

JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE FIVE

The Development Of The Textile

Industry In South Carolina

By PROFESSOR G. H. DUNLAP

The history of cotton manufacturing in South made the coarsest cloth for their own clothing, Carolina involves a great deal more than is and to forget that in the humble homes a ma- shown by the statistical record of its growth. jority of the white population lived many a Silas Progress from the pio- Marner whose heritage neer plants to the pre- in old England has sent commanding posi- been the skilled craft tion of the industry of m.anufacturing yarns cannot be traced by a and fabrics. mere recital of figures. It is admitted on all To properly visualize sides that South Caro- this development, we lina has the distinction must take into account of being the pioneer in the economic condi- the development of the tions prevailing when textile industry in the the first mills were Southern States. His- started and the various torically, we believe influences which both that cotton manufac- aided and checked turing on a machine their growth. The story, basis in South Carolina too, must contain some- began in the year 1700 thing of the spirit of Yet we have recorded reconstruction days in the records, that of the vision of the Governor Glenn of leaders of that period South Carolina in the who foresaw that the year 1748 stated in a South could find salva- required report to ihe tion only in the strength English Lords of Trade of her own efforts to that the Carolina colon- build again an econom- ists were manuiactur- ic structure that would ing cloth goods for Professor G. H. Dunlap support her people. home consumption. To you who are prone to think of the tex- It is only just and fair to concede to Slater tile industry in South Carolina as a new enter- the distinction of going into the cotton mill in a prise resulting from the effects of the Civil War business-like manner, but the claim that the first or to those who hold the popular misconception mill was erected at Beverley, Mass., in 1787 is that the textile industry has been transplanted questionable, and the distinction of having the from a parent New England, the history of the first mill most probably belongs to South Caro- development of textile manufacturing in South lina. Carolina should be most interesting. In Gregg's "History of the Old Cheraws" Perhaps they are apt to remember the com- the following reference, from a Charles Town plete and picturesque plantation system that Gazette of December 22, 1768, establishing the existed in this state, where slaves sometimes fact that cotton goods were made in this state :

PAGE SIX THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JAUNARY 1941

as early as 1768. with eighty-four spindles, that would spin ten "A gentleman of St. David's Parish, in pounds of yarn per day and only required one this province, writes to his correspondent in attendant to operate the machine.

Charles Town: 'I expect to see our own In 1795, the General Assembly of South manufacturers much promoted in this part Carolina passed an Act that a lottery be drawn of the province. I send you some samples and the profits used for manufacturing, as a re- of what hath been already done upon this sult of which four hundred pounds were en- river in the parish. The samples of white trusted to William McClure to erect a factory to cotton was made in proportion of twelve manufacture Manchester wares, provided that he yards to one pound of cotton. Flax, hemp, employ and instruct seven white persons for a and cotton may be raised here in any quan- period of seven years. tity. As to wool, one can not have much The South Carolina Homespun Company of of it." Charleston was organized in 1808 and was con- We have records of an eighty-four spindle sidered the most important undertaking in the mill that was situated on the Santee River near cotton mill industry up to that time. In 1808 Statesburg in Sumter County. It was operated the fad for wearing homespun became so acute by a small band of English spinners and weav- that the house of representatives of South Caro- ers, and who knows but what the gentleman lina passed a resolution that all members of the from St. David's Parish was referring to the General Assembly should appear during the ses- small enterprise? It is also stated in the sion clad in homespun suits. Gazette of March 2, 1769: The first mills in South Carolina were, for "Many of the inhabitants of the north- the most part, built in the coastal section of the ern and eastern parts of the province have state on small water powers, but after the war this winter clothed themselves in their own of 1812 had centered attention on the question manufactures; many more would purchase of home industry, the colony spread out into the them if they could be secured." water powers of the Piedmont section, now the In 1770 there seems to have been a general true textile Alsace-Lorraine of the United States. movement toward developing the state along It is surprising to learn that many of the manufacturing lines, and a committee was ap- outstanding men, noted for leadership, were op- pointed to establish and promote manufacturing posed to the cotton mills, in their economic de- in the province, with Henry Laurens, Esq., as velopment of South Carolina. Jefferson was chairman and treasurer of the organization. Pe- bitterly opposed in his early days to the cotton titions were circulated for the raising of money mills, and John Randolph said: and considerable funds were secured for the pro- "The mills in the South would bring motion of the industry. yellow fever, not in August, but from June Daniel Heyward, the father of Thomas Hey- to January, and from January to June." ward, Jr., who was one of the signers of the De- John C. Calhoun expressed his sentiment claration of Independence from South Carolina, with the following words: stated in a letter to his son dated February 19, "It is better for us that our cotton 1777 should go out in yarn and goods rather than "My manufactory goes on bravely, in the raw state." but fear the want of cards will put a stop to About 1816 many New England settlers it, as they are not to be got; if they were, came to the upper part of South Carolina and there is not the least doubt but that we laid the foundation for tens of thousands of could make six thousand yards of cloth in spindles which in due course of time were to the year from the time we began." hum in the Piedmont area. Among these pio- On the 13th day of March, 1789, Hugh neers were George and Leonard Hill, W. B. Shel- Templeton deposited in the office of the Secre- den, William Bates, a close relative of Hammetts, tary of State two plans of inventions. One a the owners and operators of the Chiquola Cot- complete draft of a card machine that would ton Mill at Honea Path, John Phillip and Lind- card eighty pounds of cotton per day and the say Weaver, and James Edward Henry. other a complete draft of a spinning machine, (continued on page twenty-three) JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE SEVEN

Government Cotton Spinning Laboratory

At Clemson College

Laboratory Aids Farmer And Spinner

Since 1921 the United States Department of on the manufacturing quality of the cottons and Agriculture, in cooperation with Clemson Col- the serviceability of the products made from lege, has maintained a cotton spinning laboratory them. This information, in turn, plays an im- in the Textile School at Clemson. Here samples portant part in the broad Federal State Cotton

Left: Mr. W. H. Gray. Right: Mr. J. M. Cook, Head of Government Laboratory of cotton ranging from a few ounces to 50 Research Program being conducted by several pounds or more are manufactured into yarns, Bureaus of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, cords, and fabrics, and the products subjected in cooperation with the various cotton producing to many tests, to provide accurate information states. PAGE EIGHT THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JAUNARY 1941

Several rather distinct applications are made project has moved into new quarters, and at of the results obtained from the spinning labora- the present time an effort is being made to ob- try at Clemson. These include: the evaluation tain a complete series of new machinery for use and calibration of the grade and staple stand- in this experimenal work. ards; the evaluation of the results from experi- The manufacturing tests are conducted un- ments in the breeding, production, harvesting, der rigidly-specified humidity conditions, main- ginning, and handling of cotton; the correlation tained by automatically-controlled humidifiers. of the properties of the cotton fibers to those of In the laboratory where tests are made of yarn, the yarns, cords, and fabrics manufactured from cord, and fabric, both temperature and relative them; and the development of more precise humidity are controlled to "standard" conditions methods of getting the potential value out of —70 degrees F. and 65 percent R. H. cotton during manufacturing. Some of these fac- The equipment and apparatus in the yarn tors are described in greater detail belov^. and fabric testing laboratory are unusually com- The staff of the cotton spinning laboratory plete, and include the most modern devices at Clemson College, headed by J. M. Cook, con- available for textile testing. Among the machines sist of 11 persons of whom 9 are technical and 2, to be found there are the following: tensile clerical workers. A similar laboratory establish- strength testers for yarn in single strand and in 1936 is now in operation at College Sta- ed skein form, and for cord and fabric ; automatic tion, Texas, in cooperation with the A. & M Col- yarn reel; motor-driven rotary racks for con- lege of Texas. Both the South Carolina and ditioning specimens; inclined-plane tester for Texas laboratories, known, respectively, as the yarn and cord, for tensile and repeated-stress Eastern and Western Regional spinning labora- tests; fabric bursting-strength tester; yarn num- tories, are under the direction of M. E. Campbell, bering quadrants; twist counters; sliver evenness whose headquarters are in Washington. The tester; roving tester; electric oven for determin- spinning work, together with the ginning investi- ing moisture regain ; stroboscope for studying the gations conducted at Stoneville, Miss., and the action of travelers, fliers, and other fast moving physical, chemical. X-ray, and color investiga- parts; several types of tachometers; complete tions in Washington, constitute what is known equipment for making cotton fiber quality meas- officially as the Cotton" Utility and Standards Re- urements; microscopes, chemical balances, and search Section of the Division of Cotton Market- many other important pieces of equipment. Some ing. Dr. R. W. Webb is in charge of ail of the of the equipment was designed and constructed work of this section. by members of the technical staff. Two of the The textile machinery used in the tests at most important and interesting pieces of appara- Clemson for the most part is of regular com- tus were imported from England. These are an mercial design, cut down in length in some in- automatic single-strand tester, and a device stances and containing some modifications to known as a Shirley analyzer. This latter ma- adapt the equipment to the special requirements chine was developed at the Shirley Institute near of the test work. For a number of years, use Manchester, and is used for making precise has been made of some of the spinning equip- measurements of the foreign matter content of ment in the old Textile Building at Clemson. small samples of cotton. With the completion of the new building the (continued on page twenty-two)

Textile Warehouse Co, COMPLIMENTS OF S. M. BEATTIE GREENVILLE, SOUTH CAROLINA JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE NINE

Differences In Quality Of Rain-Grown And Irrigated Cotton Shown By Tests

Preliminary results of spinning and fiber tion. But the longer staple 1 1/8 inch cotton pro- tests on irrigated and rain-grown cotton fi'om the duced in the Memphis territory was somewhat 1939 crop were released on November 12, 1940 inferior to California cotton from the standpoint by the Agricultural Marketing Service. of waste. Manufacturers have claimed that irrigated The tests showed that yarns spun from cot- cotton has more waste than rain-grown cotton, ton having staple lengths of 1 1/16 and 1 3/32 produces yarn of lower strength, produces yarns inches produced under rainfall conditions in the and fabrics that are unsatisfactory in appear- Memphis territory were neither consistently high- ance, is harder to spin, and is difficult to dye. er nor lower in strength than those produced un- These claims and their reflection in price differ- der irrigation in California. But yarns made ences between rain-grown and irrigated cotton from 1 1/8 inch cotton from the Memphis terri- were responsible for the study by the Agricul- tory averaged about 4 percent stronger than tural Marketing Service. those made from California cottons. In all three Samples for the tests were gathered during staple lengths, cotton produced in the Memphis the 1939-40 season from the Memphis territory, territory yielded yarns 2 to 11 percent stronger which includes Mississippi, Arkansas, and Lou- than those made from irrigated cotton from the

isiana ; from California ; and from the Arizona- Arizona-New Mexico-Texas region. New Mexico-Southwest Texas territory. The Rain-Grown Cotton Yarns Show Satisfactory samples, believed to be representative of the Appearance crop in each area, were packaged and shipped In appearance, yarns spun from rain-grown to the U. S. Spinning Laboratory at Clemson, S. C. cotton were more satisfactory than those spun There they were spun into yarns and tire cords from irrigated cotton. Yam appearance is meas- and woven into cloth under controlled laboratory ured by comparison with standards prepared conditions. by the Agricultural Marketing Service which Grade for grade these tests showed that cot- show variations in neps, foreign matter, and even- tons having staple lengths of 1 1/16 and 1 3/32 ness of yarns. Differences in yarn appearance inches produced in the Memphis territory yielded are reflected in cloth manufactured from the less manufacturing waste than those from sec- tions where the cotton was grown under irriga- (continued on page twenty-four)

Testing machines and equipment used by the spinning laboratory PAGE TEN THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JANUARY 1941

Something About

Our Facu

By J. W. HOWARD, '41.

H. H. WILLIS, Dean of The Clemson Textile School

Reading left to right, first row: A. E. McKenna, Joseph Lindsay, Jr., Dean H. H. Willis, R. K. Eaton, E. F. Cartee; Second row. W. E. Tarrant, M. L. Huckabee, W. C. Blair, G. H. Dunlap, J. V. Walters; Thirc^ row: W. L. Hicks, Gaston Gage, T. A. Campbell. Not shown above: W. B. Williams, I. S. Pitts.

A. E. McKENNA ter's degree from the University of Tennessee Head of Weaving and Designing Dept. in 1933. Since then he has written numerous articles relating to the weaving of fancy fabrics, Mr. McKenna was graduated from the Mel- most of them appearing in the Melliand Textile liand School of Design in 1922. He then gained Monthly. He and Mr. A. E. Shinn are co-authors three years of experience in the industry, work- of the article "Weaving Fancy Meshes On The ing in the card and weave rooms. He left the Slotted Doup." He is a member of several na- mill to come to Clemson to teach in 1925. He tional fraternities, among them being Phi Psi, served in this capacity until 1929, when he was honor textile fraternity. Mr. McKenna, begin- granted a one year leave of absence to complete ning his sixteenth year at Clemson, has done work on his B. S. degree, receiving this degree much to improve the Weaving and Designing in 1930 from Clemson College. The work on Department, and we feel certain that he will look this degree consisted of general engineering and to the betterment of this department in the academic work. Mr. McKenna received his Mas- future. JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE ELEVEN

G. H. DUNLAP W. G. BLAIR Acting Asst. Prof, of Carding and Spinning Assistant Professor of Carding

Mr. Dunlap was graduated from Clemson Mr. Blair was graduated from the New College in 1928. He immediately assumed a Bedford Textile School in 1908, majoring in cot- position with the faculty upon graduation, a posi- ton manufacturing. He accepted a position with tion he still holds today. Before entering Clem- the Whitin Machine Works demonstrating the son, Mr. Dunlap worked in the card and weave Whitin comber in the Eastern and Middle Atlan- rooms of Aragon Cotton Mills in Rock Hill, S. tic states. He was then placed in charge of C. He has done rather extensive work in tex- comber experimental work on waste with the tile research, working with the U. S. Depart- Whitin company at the Ashburn Waste Experi- ment of Agriculture in this capacity. He has mental Plant, Ashburn, Mass. Mr. Blair later written, in conjunction with Mr. Willis, several served one year with the Johns Mansville Co., articles, among them being "Comparative Spin- trying to improve the manufacturing and stand- ning Tests of Cotton Grov/n in Texas in 1932," ardization of asbestos products. He accepted a "Cotton Spinning", and "Textile Mathematics." position as overseer of carding with the then Mr. Dunlap attended the University of North nationally known Dexter Yarn Co., Pawtucket, in Carolina Summer School 1935. His graduate R. I. work consists of courses at The Massachusetts Mr. Blair came to Clemson to teach card- at Institute of Technology in 1936, and work ing and spinning, in which capacity he most ably Pennsylvania State College in 1939 and 1940. served from 1914 to 1920. In 1920, he went to Mr. Dunlap is a member of Phi Psi, honor tex- work with the U. S. Department of Agriculture, tile fraternity. is at present teaching spinning He where he was placed in charge of cotton spin- textile mathematics. Textile students look and ning research. In 1924, he joined the Armstrong upon Mr. Dunlap as a friend and a councelor as Cork Co., as textile advisor, the work dealing well as an instructor, due to his ready willingness Vv'ith the introduction and improvement of cork to help whenever problems confront them. covered top rolls for the carding and spinning rooms. In 1927 Mr. Blair then experimented with the actual raising of cotton on a small place T. A. CAMPBELL just outside the city of Greenville, S. C. He re- Designing Assistant Professor of Weaving and turned to Clemson in 1936 as assistant professor Mr. Campbell was graduated from The of carding and spinning, in which capacity he Clemson Agricultural College in 1928. Upon is serving us most capably and efficiently at the leaving Clemson, Mr. Campbell accepted a posi- present time tion at Chester High School, where he taught bookkeeping and mathematics. He left Chester to join the Aragon-Baldwin Cotton Mills, where he served as assistant to the Secretary and The Clemson textile department has main- Treasurer. He stayed with this company dur- tained the unique record over the past 13 years ing the years of 1930-1931, after which he left of having placed all of its graduates who wanted industry. to work with Ralph E. Loper and Co., where he to secure jobs in textiles or allied remained seven years. Mr. Campbell has done graduate work at Pennsylvania State College and Clemson College. He is the author of "Elementary Textile Cost- T. ing", the textbook used by the students studying MR. JOHN WIGINGTON costing. He is a member of Phi Psi, honor tex- John T. Wigington finished the textile course tile fraternity, and is also a member of Iota Lamba Sigma, another nationally known frater- at Clemson Textile School in 1923. He is in charge of the Government Spinning Laboratory, nity. Mr. Campbell is married and has two Division, U. S. Department of Agriculture, children. His hobbies include raising and culti- Cotton vating flowers and collecting stamps. College Station, Texas. PAGE TWELVE THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JANUARY 1941

The Editors' Page

SPECIAL TO FRESHMAN TEXTILE STUDENTS AGAIN, WE SAY, "THANK YOU!" The Bobbin And Beaker w^as organized in November 1939 by the members of Iota Chapter of Phi Psi, national honor textile fraternity at Clemson. The first issue of the magazine was far published in March 1940. A copy of the maga- zine was given to each Textile student, and a copy was mailed free-of-charge to every mill in South Carolina, North Carolina, and Georgia. Two-hundred copies were carried to Philadelphia TFrat^rnttg and distributed to the delegates to the 37th an- nual Phi Psi convention by the two delegates from Iota chapter. This year the Bobbin and Beaker was turn- ed over to the students of the textile school. Dean Willis has given the staff of the Bob- YOU LIKE TO WOULD bin and Beaker a well-lighted, heated, and well BECOME A MEMBER? ventilated room which is just across the hall from the Phi Psi club room. Probably you have noticed some textile stu- Again, we wish to say that we appreciate dents lately who were carrying a shuttle sus- the cooperation of Dean H. H. Willis of the pended from their necks, had peculiar marks Clemson Textile School, and of the Clemson Col- painted on their cheeks and carried boxes full of lege Business Manager and his staff who have mints, chewing gum, and cigarettes. Perhaps rendered practical advice and aid. We appre- article you wondered what it was all about. In case ciate the by Professor G. H. Dunlap. We you did not find out, these men were being initi- are grateful to Mr. J. M. Cook, head of the cot- ated into Phi Psi; the highest honor that can be ton testing laboratory of the U. S. Dept. of Agri- accorded a textile student at Clemson. What culture at Clemson for the valuable information contributed magazine. thank the is Phi Psi? Phi Psi is the national honor he to the We the articles written and textile fraternity. Its requisites for membership students for they have are high scholastic standing, high moral charac- also those students who have been ever-willing to assistance possible. ter, and extra curricular activities. Those stand- render any Above all, we thank those who have made ards are met by a select few, and it is the pur- the publication of possible ad- pose of this editorial to get you to think about the magazine by vertising through The Bobbin And Beaker, and being a member of this select few. Now is the prove time to think ahead to your Junior or Senior year we sincerely hope that our services will as valuable to to us. —you can be chosen for membership either year, you as yours have W. R. O. and decide that when you reach this stage of — your college career, you will be eligible for mem- bership in this great fraternity of textile men. Your decision to make that extra effort so neces- J. J. Lyons, general manager of Orr Cotton sary for this achievement must be backed by Mill, Anderson, S. C, completed the textile hard work during the ensuing years. You will course at Clemson in 1925. be amply rewarded for your efforts, however, when you have finally reached your goal. Come R. J. Cheatham, Clemson textile graduate on. Freshmen, start working now towards an ex- of 1916, is in charge of the Manufacturing Divi- cellent end, Phi Psi membership. sion of the new Regional Laboratory, U. S. De- —G. W. C. partment of Agriculture, New Orleans, Louisiana. JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE THIRTEEN

Short Features

Clemson Boasts Modern Courses

The new home of the Clemson Textile School. This new building, built in 1938, cost approximately $475,000, and has 127,000 square feet of space.

"Clemson's School of Textiles Trains Young Men Directed by Dean H. H. Willis, a Clemson For Work in Mill Industry Over Nation" graduate of 1917, who returned to his Alma Mater to head his department in 1930, the Clem- Completely surrounded by the South's great- son School of Textiles offers the textile student est industry—Textiles—Clemson College has de- a curriculum designed to give preparation for veloped one of the most complete and efficient any branch of the textile industry. Additional textile departments to be found in any American work and elective courses enable students to college. adequately prepare themselves for positions as designers, salesmen, research laboratory techni- Bachelor of Science degrees are offered in cians, technical journalists, and cost and manage- three major courses of study, Textile Chemistry ment experts. and Dyeing, Textile Engineering, and Weaving and Designing, and at present a total of 340 students are enrolled in the Clemson school, 95 REORGANIZATION OF COURSES EFFECTED of these are candidates for degrees at the end In the past two years the Clemson College of the current school year. Textile faculty has undertaken the reorganiza- Established in 1896, the Clemson School of tion of textile courses at Clemson and the pre- Textiles became the first in this country to be- paration of textile teaching material especially come affiliated with a college and for this reason adapted to the ever-changing conditions of the is generally accepted to be the oldest School of industry. The work has been carried on in co- Textiles in America. There are older textile operation with the Textile Foundation and covers schools that are not connected with a college or all subjects in yarn manufacturing from the cot- university. The Clemson textile students also ton grading through the finished spinning. The gives Clemson the distinction of having the Clemson faculty now plans to continue the work largest full time day student enrollment. by teaching weaving subjects. PAGE FOURTEEN THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JANUARY 1941

WILLIAM G. ASHMORE Where Some Of By GORDON E. WILLIAMS, '42 The faculty and students of the Textile Our Textile Graduates School at Clemson are always glad to hear of the achievements of former students. It was with Are Located great pleasure that many of them recently read of the signal honor accorded "Bill" Ashmore of Greenville when he was asked to write an article on the textile industry in South America for the Encyclopedia Brittanica. J. J. Norton, Jr., completed the textile course "Bill", as he was known, was a charter at Clemson in 1925. He is now superintendent member of the Blue Key at Clemson, a member of Goodyear-Clearwater Mills, Cedartown, Ga. of Phi Psi, a captain on the regimental staff, a

Roland L. Lee, Jr., finished the textile engi- charter member of the C. D. A., and editor of neering course at Clemson Textile School in 1925 the "Tiger". Besides these Bill belonged to the and is now Head of the Textile Engineering De- many other campus organizations, and when partment, Texas Technological College, Lubbock, Gamma Alpha Mu was organized, he was made Texas. an honorary member. Upon graduation, he joined the staff of ihe J. F. Blackmon, Clemson textile graduate of "Textile World" of which he is, incidentally, 1916, is general manager of Pelzer Mills, Pelzer, now the Southern editor. In 1939 Mr. Ashmore S. C. made an extensive tour of South America, study- ing the conditions and trying to get a cross-sec- J. A. Fewell completed the textile course at tion of the opinion of the people of that country. Clemson in 1925 and is now with the Burlington Spending around five months down there, he in- Mill, Radford, Virginia. terviewed native business men, foreign ministers, J. E. Garvin finished the textile course at and American business men, staying much of the Clemson in 1920. He is manager of the Blue time on coffee plantations and in native homes. Ridge Rayon Mills, Alta Vista, Virginia. Of interest to the textile students is Mr. Ashmore's opinion on the opportunities for the Chas. D. Green, Clemson textile graduate of young man in South America. "With capital, in- 1D28, is general manager of Mills Mill, Green- itiative, and a sound knowledge of conditions, ville, S. C. and Fairforest Finishing Company, the chances are that an American with modern Spartanburg, S. C. management and machinery could do very well M. L. Hall completed the weaving and de- in South America. However, this same man signing course at Clemson Textile School in 1932. with capital and other requisites could probably He is superintendent of weaving at Ranlo Manu- do all right at home." facturing Company, Gastonia, N. C. Concerning everyone now is the political in- terests of South America. Mr. Ashmore was kind J. D. Jones, Clemson textile graduate of enough to give the writer his opinion on this 1J15, is general superintendent of Union Buffalo situation. "Most of the native citizens of those I ills, Buffalo, S. C. He has a son, J. D. Jones, countries do not want to be dominated by Ger- enrolled in the senior class at Clemson Textile many or Nazism, but they will have very little School this year. choice if Germany wins this war. In several of the countries there already is a large body of J. P. Kinard, manager of Cotton Grey Goods German-born population and pro-Nazi sympa- Department, William Whitman Company, Inc., thizers. The United States will have to reor- 40 Worth St., New York City, finished the tex- ganize its economic and political thinking if v/e tile course at Clemson in 1922. are to keep Europe out of the Western hemis- J. R. Swetenburg, superintendent and pur- phere. Dollars and guns are worth more than chasing agent for Gluck Mills, Anderson, S. C, all the treaties we can make with Latin finished the textile course at Clemson in 1922. America." ;;

JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE FIFTEEN

Phi Psi Activities

By G. W. KIRBY, '41

Recently inducted into the Clemson Chap- These initiates, "worms," as they are called ter of Phi Psi (Iota Chapter) were twelve out- during Phi Psi initiation, are required to carry standing textile students and one faculty mem- shuttles for a period of two weeks, furnish mints, ber. This is the largest number of new men candy, and cigarettes to the old members known ever to be inducted into the Clemson Chapter as "generals", and to do any other thing the of this honorary textile fraternity at one time. nimble minds of the generals can concoct. This increase in initiates was voted on by the To these initiates "The Bobbin and Beaker" oldest members at a recent meeting, because they extends its heartiest congratulations for their felt that the expanding Textile School warranted wonderful achievement, and wishes for them the expansion of the Phi Psi membership oaota. continued success at Clemson and in their chosen field of endeavor after leaving Clemson.

PHI PSI CLUB ROOM

The Phi Psi Club room has had its face lifted this year. All of the old furniture has been worked over or discarded and new seat covers have been placed on the cushioned chairs. A new radio with a record changer has been in- stalled, and most of the currently popular songs as well as some old favorites are represented in the record rack. The floor has been thoroughly cleaned, and attempts are being made to secure Phi Psi Initiates rugs for it. The number of pictures on the wall The twelve students, seven seniors and five has increased, and now the club room has that juniors, represent outstanding students, both in old "homey touch." Incidentally, the latest mag- textiles and extra curricular activities. The fa- azines, both popular and technical, are always culty member, Prof. E. F. "Bud" Cartee, is well on hand to help pass that idle time. What idle known by Clemson Textile students for his time? A number of the members now find that courses in fabric analysis and loom-fixing which the club room is an ideal place to study, and he presides over so capably. The senior initiates are taking full advantage of this feature. are John W. "Duck" Howard, Greenville, S. C.

Hervey H. "B. B." Robinson, Union, S. C. ; T. Phi Psi is well represented on the staff of

"Dick" Osteen, Greenville, S. C. ; John Willys The Bobbin and Beaker this year. Genial, ef- Sullivan, Lodge, S. C; Robert P. Timmerman, ficient Bill O'Shields is editor of the magazine.

Laurens, S. C. ; and George S. "Gus" Wham, Wade Carder is capably serving in the capacity Mountville, S. C. All of the seniors rank as First of business manager, while Gus Wham tells the Lieutenants in the Clemson College Cadet Corps, world about The Bobbin and Beaker from liis post except Robinson, who is a Captain. The juniors as publicity agent. G. Walker Kirby and "Duck" are James H. "Jimmie" Barton, Anderson, S. C. Howard are collaborating as managing editors; James J. "Cass" Casserly, Flushing, N. Y. while Dick Osteen and E. W. "Chick" Dunham Charles R. "Charlie" Howard, North Augusta, S. are really working hard on the advertising staff. C; Harry L. Sturgis, Rock Hill, S. C; and Gor- Sam Jenkins is slated to handle the circulation don E. Williams, Greenville, S. C Barton is a end of the magazine. A. C Nalley is associate battalion sergeant major; Howard is a regimen- editor. These men are just carrying on the good tal color sergeant, and all of the other juniors work of other Phi Psi men who published the rank as sergeants in the cadet corps. first issue of The Bobbin and Beaker. PAGE SIXTEEN THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JANUARY 1941

N. Y. A. and The Textile School

By M. D. MOORE, '43

The National Youth Administration plays dents. NYA students in this department pre- a great part in the textile school at Clemson. At pare reagent solutions, wind yarns, prepare all present, there are forty students, majoring in types of textile fibers for use in the laboratories, textile courses, who help defray their expenses as well as assistant in dyeing and bleaching semi- while in school and who obtain a better under- practical lots of material for the other depart- standing of the textile industry by the aid of the ments of the Textile School. National Youth Administration. The type of In the department of Weaving and Design- work varies; very few students do the same kind ing are ten boys who profit immensely by NYA of work. work. Most of these students work under the supervision of Professor A. E. McKenna, head of More students are employed in the depart- the weaving and designing department. L. E. ment of carding and spinning than any other de- Gatlin, Jr., a textile engineering sophomore, is partment. In this department, eleven boys each assigned to the post of student loom-fixer. Be- day obtain a better understanding of textile ma- fore entering college, Gatlin was employed for chinery and the textile industry by practical ex- two years as loom-fixer for one of the mills in perience. G. W. Kirby, a textile engineering his home own. Other types of work done by senior, is student supervisor of most of the NYA students in the weaving and designing depart- students in the spinning department. Professor ment include operating of winders and looms, G. H. Dunlap is the faculty supervisor. The gen- and the cleaning of bobbins. Students must also eral work of the students is to operate carding keep the machinery clean and well oiled. They and spinning machinery; however, there are must always be on the lookout for faults in the many other duties to be performed. Machines machinery and report all defects to their super- are often tested production ; machines must for visor. NYA students must always keep enough in for classes; be cleaned and oiled preparation products of their machinery on hand for use in papers have to be graded, and numerous other classes in the textile course. duties are required of students. In many ways NYA students are being bene- The department of chemistry and dyeing fited by the program. They are being paid a affords work for six students. However, these salary for the work they do, but an even greater students spend practically all their spare time compensation than the salary is the knowledge at work and are kept very busy in performing and self-confidence they receive through practi- their various assignments. Professor Joseph cal experience in the operation of mill machinery Lindsay, Jr., head of the Chemistry and Dyeing and the solving of problems which confront men department, is faculty supervisor of these stu- every day in the textile industry.

• WALKER HEDDLES WEAVE WELL! WALKER MFG. CO., Inc. McALISTER. SMITH & PATE, INC. Established 1875 INVESTMENT SECURITIES Atlantic and Ruth Sts. Philadelphia, Pa. ik Southern Office:

GREENVILLE, S. C. 11 Perry Road, Greenville, S. .C, Phone 1869

Raleigh, N. C. Charleston, S. C. Asheville, N. C. Southern Agents:

Greenville Textile Supply Co., Greenville, S. C. * Odell Mill Supply Co., Greensboro, N. C. JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE SEVENTEEN

Determining End Breakage In Spinning

By WILLIAM R. O'SHIELDS, '41

Very often a mill executive likes to know placed under unclassified and proves to be a in exact figures just how his spinning is running. better tester than the one with a low percentage As a general rule a spinner will say that his spin- of unclassified. It is ning is running either "good" or "bad" not know- also suggested that tests be made at ing in exact figures just what he himself means two periods of the day, one on the morning shift by "good" today and "bad" yesterday. Today, and one on the evening shift each period being keen competition has made it absolutely neces- approximately three hours long, for the tester sary to make every day in the spinning room a will usually give a more accurate report up to day of "progress" instead of a day of "chance." three hours, but after three hours the tester be- Many methods have been used in determining comes tired and his efficiency decreases. end-breakage in spinning, but probably the most In making an analysis of the results of the accurate way is to have a disinterested party test, the possibilities are great for an executive do the testing. By this method the tester has with an analytical mind to determine exactly no connection wth those who would like to see where his greatest troubles really occur. If the results of these tests were discussed with the over- the test show up better than usual, nor does he seer of carding and the overseer spinning the have any connection with those who would like of carder could be on the lookout for the causes to see the test show up worse than usual. for the end-breakage resulting from the material Above all, the tester should know how to being produced in his department, such as, the approach the spinner, for the approach to the number of hard-ends made in the card room, spinner can "make or break" the test. The test- bunches in roving resulting from improper and er should explain to the spinner exactly what he inadequate cleaning of the frames, improper set- intends to do and that he is not a "minute man" tings, and careless "cleaning-down" overhead. and is not checking up on her work, but upon the The spinning room overseer could be on the look- efficiency of the machine and the existing spin- out for causes of end-broakages under "Machine ning conditions. With just a simple explanation Operations", "Cleaning" and "Doffing". See he is able to get the cooperation of the spinner that the rings are given proper care, the travel- and therefore makes the test easier and much lers changed at the proper time, and that the more valuable. One who does not use tact in steel roll and top rolls are not injured by the his approach to the spinner should not be used spinners hook, knife, or fingernails. to make an end-breakage test. If the mill executive knows definitely from An end-breakage test can be made easier where his trouble comes, he can combat the by using forms which contain all data the tester trouble much more effectively, and the test also should obtain before starting the test and should enables hiih to see at a glance which way to also contain all headings and classifications strike to eliminate the troubles. which the tester is to use while making the test. A complete list of the most common causes of end breakage makes the test much easier and the time necessary to take the test much shorter. It is suggested that the courses be classified The first artificial silk ever to be produced under Material, Machine Operation, Cleaning, commercially was made from nitrocellulose, a Doffing, and Unclassified. A high percentage substance formed by treating cellulose with nitric of Unclassified end breakage gives no indication acid. In plastics and explosives, it is still im- as to the ability of the tester. The tester who portant. The abandonment of this method has has a relatively higher percentage of unclassified been due to its higher cost and to the improved might be perfectly honest in classifying the qualities of viscose and acetate rayons which causes and those of which he was in doubt he have given them preference for textile purposes. PAGE EIGHTEEN THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JAUNARY 1941

History Of Rayon

By M. D. MOORE, '43

Rayon, a textile fiber made from modified acid and acetic anhydride. In 1894 Cross and cellulose, is fast becoming more and more in de- Bevan, the English chemists and inventors of the mand by American and foreign consumers. Be- viscose solution, also patented a method of pro- cause of its many types and advantages, rayon is ducing electric light filaments from cellulose rapidly displacing many textile fibers which, acetate, and a German chemist, Emil Bronnert, until now, have played very important parts in made the first cellulose acetate textile yarn ex- the textile industry. perimentally in 1899. Commercial production of

The leading rayon process is that of using cellulose acetate yarn was started in the United the solution known as viscose, discovered in 1892 States in 1915, but no large-scale production be- by two English chemists, Cross and Bevans, who gan here until 1925, when a cellulose acetate treated wood pulp with caustic soda and bisul- plant at Cumberland, Md., built during the phide of carbon to form a plastic cellulose com- World War to supply aeroplane dope, was equip- pound readily soluble in water. ped to produce textile filaments from this ma- Prior to 1900, extensive laboratory experi- terial. The production here was under the direc- ments for the production of viscose artificial silk tion of the brothers, Henry and Camille Dreyfus, were made in Massachusetts; the first commer- Swiss chemists, who now operate similar plants cial production was started in Lansdowne, Pa., in in England, France, and Italy. Cellulose acetate 1903, and several hundred pounds per week were yarns now account for almost twenty-five percent produced at the plant during the following five of the rayon produced in the United States. The or six years. This plant failed financially be- cellulose acetate rayon process is more costly cause the product was too irregular in quality than the viscose method, but the yarn, because of and too costly to produce on a small-scale. The its waterproof qualities, sells at a higher price first large-scale production of viscose rayon in for some purposes. America began in a plant erected by an English The third rayon process is the cupram- company, at Marcus Hook, Pa., in 1911, under monium method in which cotton linters are treated the direction of the American chemist. Dr. with copper salts and ammonia to produce a solu- Charles A. Ernst, who had first become engaged tion from which the filaments are formed. This in viscose rayon research in the earlier small- solution of cellulose was invented in 1857 by the scale production in Lansdowne, Pa. The new German chemist, Schweitzer. The solution was company controlled the basic viscose rayon first used for making filaments for electric lamps patents and during the next ten years earned by Weston in 1882 and a French chemist, Des- enormous profits as it was the only successful paissis, was granted the first patent for making large-cale producer of rayon in the United a cuprammonium artificial silk in 1890. It earli- States. After the expiration of the early viscose est commercial development was in Germany in patents numerous other companies began opera- 1897 under the patent of Herman Pauly. Dur- tion here. Today there are dozens of large-scale ing the next decade various attempts were made producers of viscose rayon scattered over the to establish rayon plants using this method in the United States. Approximately 75 percent of the United States, but none were successful here rayon yarns now made in the United States are until 1924, when an American branch of the viscose. leading German manufacturers using it erected Second in importance are yarns made from a plant in Tennessee. One other similar plant cellulose acetate, which type of cellulose was has been erected here since then, but the product discovered in 1869 by German chemists Naudin is more costly to make than viscose rayon and and Schutzenberger, but its use was confined to domestic production by this method is now esti- total plastic for many years. Cellulose acetate is made mated at less than three percent of the by treating purified cotton linters with acetic made here. JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE NINETEEN

Carders And Spinners Meet

By G. W. KIRBY, '41

The fall meeting of the South Carolina Card- National Defense Committee was wisely chosen,

ers and Spinners Division of the Southern Textile because it has been functioning smoothly and ef- Association was held on Oct. 12, 1940 at Clemson ficiently since its inception. "Every man, woman College, Clemson, S. C. Dr. Watson opened the and child can best aid the defense program by meeting with a prayer, after which H. H. Willis, doing the job you are doing now as well as you Dean of Clemson's Textile School, introduced Dr. can," said Major Mahon. "The National De- R. Franklin Poole, Clemson College's new presi- fense Committee, in addition to the production dent. Dr. Poole welcomed the carders and spin- of defense goods, is endeavoring to keep the ners and stated that the facilities of the Textile normal way of living and the normal production school are at their disposal at all times. He on ordinary goods going." spoke of the two objectives of the Clemson Major Mahon concluded his speech with a Textile School, which are (1) to train students rousing denunciation of "slackers" and "profi-

Standing: Mr. Manning Bolt, Superintendent, Matthews Mill, Greenwrood, S. C.

for the textile industry, and (2) to aid the tex- tile industry by doing research work. The highlight of the program was an inter- esting speech on national defense by Mcijor G. Heyward Mahon, Greenville, S. C, who is chair- man of the defense program for South Carolina and a former member of the Military Affairs Committee of the House of Representatives. Maj. Major G. Heyward Mahon Mahon was introduced by the chairman of the meeting, Mr. W. T. Morton of Monarch Mills, teers" who try to harm the country instead of Union, S. C. helping it. "What this country needs," accord- In his speech Major Mahon said that na- ing to Major Mahon, "is a revival of old-fashion- tional defense had been his hobby for many ed patriotism." years, and that during his tenure of office as re- The speaker volunteered to answer any ques- presentative from S. C, he had urged, and had tion on defense the audience wanted to know been laughed at for so doing, an adequate na- about, and several questions were asked. tional defense. He lauded the present adminis- One question was asked about the effect tration for having done more to adequately pre- of the draft upon textile employees. Major pare this country for defense than any other ad- Mahon answered this by saying that all essential ministration. men engaged in the production of government Major Mahon emphasized the fact that our defense products would be exempted from the :

PAGE TWENTY THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JAUNARY 1941

draft. The importance of textiles to defense was SUMMER EMPLOYMENT emphasized in his statement that the "Defense By G. W. KIRBY, '41 Committee is making a survey of textile plants to Of inestimable value to any textile student determine what they were making and what they is summer employment which gives the student could make." the practical experience so necessary to supple- Mr. David Clark, Editor of the Southern ent theoretical training received at school. The Textile Bulletin, lauded this particular activity advantages of summertime employment to the of the Defense Committee because, as he said, textile student are many-fold. Chief among these "Many mills could switch to manufacturing de- is the better understanding of class room work, fense goods easily enough if they only knew what because the student has seen a practical applica- to make or how to make it." tion of the theory studied in class. Frequently In answer to a query about sabotage and students with practical experience are called saboteurs. Major Mahon made it clear that such upon to explain something in the class room or conditions existed, and that the government is in one of his numerous labs. The professors quietly doing a lot of work toward curbing such notice such students as this more quickly than subversive activities. other boys, and this may enhance the student's

Mr. Clark rose to say that he thought grade which certainly is to the student's benefit. the South had nothing to worry about in con- A very important part of summer-time em- nection with sabotage and saboteurs in its mills ployment is the contacts made in the textile in- since most of the laborers in Southern textile dustry itself. Frequently, because of his summer citizens. plants are all loyal American work in some plant, a student is hired upon grad- At the conclusion of Major Mahon's speech uation by that plant or some other plant to whom and after all questions had been answered, Mr. he has been recommended. Only by contact or W. W. Splawn of Pelzer, S. C, took charge of association with something do we get to feel a the meeting and led the discussion of the ten liking or disliking for that something, and what ques- questions considered. The answers to these better way is there for a student to find out if author has de- tions varied considerably, and the he likes or is suited to textiles than by working cided to submit them to the readers in the hopes in a textile plant during his vacation periods? that they will send in their opinions which we Many boys earn part of their school funds by will publish in a later issue. These questions virtue of their summer employment. The ad- are vantages to the student are many, and the only have humidifiers in Card No. 1. Do you disadvantage is the forfeiture of his summer va- Room? If so, what relative humidity do you cation. carry ? Benefits of summer work do not confine any experience with No. 2. Have you had themselves solely to the student; prospective em- card calendar rolls? the spring tension device on ployer's of the students are immeasurably helped results? If so, with what in several ways. In the first place they get stu- 3. you tried the spring on the No. Have dents who can go into a plant and assume posi- as cushion for the weight front drawing rolls a tions of responsibility more rapidly than a man and what results? of theoretical training only. Employers are often No. 4. What causes some of the roving to able to judge a student's ability while he is serv- tangle at top and throw one or more layers of ing his summertime apprenticeship, and when roving? this student graduates, the employer can offer No. 5. What yardage do you get on 30's him a job with confidence in that student's ability warp, with a 1 13/16" ring, 8 1/2" bobbin? to make good. Students employed on part time What yardage do you get on 40's filling with jobs frequently run tests for the mill which some- a 1 3/8" ring, 8" bobbin? times result in savings for the management. The No. 6. How many use rr.echanical cleaners employers get better trained men, because stu- on spinning? dents with practical experience understand their No. 7. How often do you change travelers theoretical training better and get more from it on 30's and 40's fillijig? How many do not which makes them more valuable to an employer. change travelers? JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE TWENTY-ONE

Wool-Yesterday and Today

By J. W. HOWARD, ^41

Wool manufacturing in the United States is war, consumption decreased so rapidly that many nearly as old as the country itself. But the his- of the small mills were forced to close. Produc- tory of wool dates back much further than the tive machinery began taking care of the woolen discovery of America. Wool was used for cloth- needs for the first time. Only the large mills ing in China before silk made its entry, and in were able to keep their machinery running, and Egypt before cotton was used on a commercial the demise of the small mill soon became ap- scale. The sheep from which we get our wool parent. were supposed to have been brought here by an As business moved to the larger plants, in expedition of Mexicans, intent on settling in Ari- order to maintain their status in the industrial zona and New Mexico. world, much new machinery was developed along Sheep raising is now done on a commercial with new methods of manufacture. Much more scale in every one of the forty-eight states. expense in the form of high labor costs, increased Rhode Island has the lowest production of wool, taxes, and unionization was introduced to the with about 12,000 pounds per year, while Texas industry. Little change was made in the pre- leads with about 63 million pounds early. The paratory machinery, speed being the only factor United States is second only to Australia in the changed. The greatest change has taken place production of wool yearly, with Argentine rank- in the carding and spinning departments of the ing third on this list. The quality of the wool mill. Space does not permit the writer to ex- produced in the United States is as fine as any plain in detail what changes were made, but suf- produced today. fice to say, greater production and speed have

One rather interesting point to observe is the been attained through these changes. fact that the American people are using far more But what of the woolen industry today? wool today than ever before, yet there are fewer Can it withstand the tremendous competition mills today producing woolen goods. Naturally, placed upon it by the numerous synthetic fibres this point brings a question to mind as to how that have been placed on the market in the past this could be possible. The answer to this rather few years? Let us examine a little more closely perplexing problem is that large plants are slow- the factors that are cutting off the very life ly absorbing the smaller ones and installing pre- blood of the woolen industry. Adjustments can cision-built, higher-speed machinery. be made by manufacturers to change from pro-

Despite the fact that wool is not used any cessing natural fibres to synthetic fibers. The longer for certain types of clothing, government real threat to the woolen industry is the transfer figures indicate the use of wool has steadily of the manufacture of certain types of fabrics to grown. About 281 million pounds of fleece wool other groups. It is plainly evident that rayon was grown in 1910, and about 40 million pounds has brought many problems to woolen manufac- of pulled wool was produced. Also, about 94 turers. At first, mill men scoffed at the deal that million pounds of wool was imported for use in rayon could possibly take the place of natural this country. This gave a total of 415 million fibres, but today they seem to be grasping at the pounds of wool available for manufacturing pur- last straw, figuratively speaking. Woolen manu- poses in 1910, and this figure increased to 532 facturers no longer mix rayon with wool for a million pounds by 1936. novelty effect, as was first the case. It is now At the turn of the century, many of the being done because rayon is threatening to be- small mills were run by small cliques, usually come a substitute for wool. The question natur- families. This worked fine as long as demand ally arises, "Wha can the woolen manufacturer stayed ahead of supply. The World War, how- do?" He can sit tight and watch the cotton mills ever, upset the whole system of things, and it move in on him, or he can fight this invasion by became necessary to greatly increase the supply renovating his plant, changing personnel, etc., to meet the tremendous demand the war placed until he is ready to answer the challenge flung upon the woolen industry. At the end of the out to him by the invader. PAGE TWENTY-TWO THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JANUARY 1941

GOVERNMENT COTTON SPINNING LABORA- TORY AT CLEMSON COLLEGE Carolina Supply Company (continued from page eight) The U. S. Department of Agriculture, through GREENVILLE, SOUTH CAROLINA its Bureau of Plant Industry, and through its fiber and spinning laboratories, is endeavoring WE CARRY A LARGE STOCK OF to find ways and means by which the farmers can produce better cotton. While this has always TEXTILE SUPPLIES been desirable, the need for better cotton has never been as urgent as it is now. First, if the United States can hope to regain and maintain for its cotton the relative position in the world's

markets that it once held, it must produce better cotton than its competitors. And these competi- tors, aware of this fact, are themselves attempt- ing to produce cotton of better quality. Second, American spinners are becoming more "quality COMPLIMENTS OF conscious." With the increased use of research in the textile industry, cotton manufacturers are A FRIEND paying more attention to the quality of their products and, consequently, to the raw material used. How does the quality of cotton grown under irrigation in the Southwest compare with that of rain-grown cotton in the main Cotton Belt? What were the reasons for the relatively poor spinning quality of the 1937 crop, reported by so many VICTOR MILL STARCH spinners? What is the new Sea Island like? How does the new Sakel x Pima cotton compare "The Weaver's Friend" with Pima? What affect does speed of gin saws have on the quality of cotton? Is the quality of lint picked with new cotton picking THE KEEVER STARCH COMPANY machines as good as that of hand picked cotton?

CLAUDE B. ILER, SOUTHERN MANAGER What happens to the spinning quality of cotton if the fibers in the bale are highly immature? 1200 Woodstde Building Greenville, S. C. What is the best temperature to use with the recently-developed cotton driers now being used at so many gins? Does storage affect the spin- ning quality of cotton? Are the fibers injured when the bale is compressed to "high density?" These are a few of the many practical questions RALPH E. LOPER CO. which the spinning work at Clemson College is concerned with. Specialists in Cotton research laboratories in various parts TEXTILE COST SERVICE of the world are concentrating on ways and INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERS means of predicting the manufacturing behavior and service performance of cotton free from a Woodside Bldg, Phone 346, Greenville, S. C. new quick and inexpensive laboratory test Un- Bucington Bldg, Phone 6010, Fall Rive-, Mass. til such a Utopia is reached, however, nothing can take the place of a manufacturing test, pro- perly conducted under adequate conditions. JANUARY 1941 THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER PAGE TWENTY-THREE

THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE TEXTILE The epoch marking periods in South Caro- lina of the cotton mill industry may be dated INDUSTRY IN SOUTH CAROLINA in the year 1847, when the Graniteville Com- (continued from page six) pany first put its goods on the market, and the early eighties when other pioneers began to see It is not definitely etablished who was re- the possibilities of the greatest industry in our sponsible for the erection of the fii'st cotton mill state. in South Carolina. There are divided opinions, By 1860 the cotton mill movement had ex- some believe the Weavers, while others think panded to such an extent that no one could the Hills shold be given the distinction. Anyway, deny that the manufacture of cotton cloth was the records show that the Industrial Manufac- supplementing the raising of cotton. The tex- turing Company, founded and erected in Spar- tile industry and agriculture by 1860 had joined tanburg County by the Weavers, soon went together and created a dual system of wealth bankrupt, and next we find the Weavers located that placed the state third in the per-capital in Greenville County, where they erected a mill wealth of the United States. on the Tyger River. There were eighteen mills in South Carolina Many historians are positive that the Hills at the beginning of the Civil War and only eleven erected a mill in Spartanburg County in the year survived, nine of the eleven were in Greenville 1816. The mill does not exist today but the and Spartanburg counties. Emerging from the property now belongs to the Enoree Manufac- catastrophe with only eleven mills, by 1880 the turing Company. number had increased to fourteen. In the chaos William Bates, after failing in his adventure of the period the development of more Jla its in Spartanburg County, moved to Pelham, South U> practically dormant until the movement of Carolina and started the operation of a mill. 1880. Then in the same spirit of wisdom and As to the development in Greenville County courage with which General Robert E. Lee turn- Col. S. C. Crittenden states that there were three ed to his broken South, an unusually able group mills in the county during the year 1835. One of men came forward to build up and guide the was Vardy McBee's, on Reedy River, six miles present-day textile industry. The movement from the village of Greenville ; another known as from its emergence about 1880 until the present the Weaver Mill was situated 19 miles north of is purely a picture of industrial romance. The Greenville, and the other was the Batesville Cot- deans in this school of romantic adventure were ton Mill, located on the Enoree River ten miles D. E. Converse, Lewis W. Parker, Captain Elli- east of Greenville, and was owned by William son A. Smyth, Col. J. P. Hammett, Dr. W. C. Bates. Hamrick, Captain J. H. Montgomery, Leroy According to the records of time a cotton Springs, and D. A. Tompkins, whose field of in- mill was erected at Autun, South Carolina, now fluence was by no means limited to North Caro- known as LaFrance, in 1838. It was built by B. lina. In the succeeding decade came James L. F. Sloan, Thomas Sloan, and Berry Benson. The Orr, William Ernest Lucas, John B. Cleveland, plant was capitalized at $50,000 and was operat- Robert McCaughrin, W. B. S. Whaley, T. E. ed by water power. It is claimed that this is the Moore, John Geer, Captain W. A. Courtney, and oldest mill in the South in continuous operation. a long procession of strong young men. The In 1846 William Gregg built the first big earliest pioneers were the explorers. They blaz- mill in South Carolina. The plant was located ed the trail. But it remained for the men just at Craniteville and contained 8400 spindles aiid named to follow the trail and improve it. It 300 looms. It was only after a long and bitter would be unfair to those who ventured into the fight in the General Assembly that Gregg se- industry before Captain Smyth, Converse, Ham- cured his charter for the organization of his mill. mett and the many others, to single out one as The application for the charter remained in the the leader in the development since 1880. But hands of the General Assembly for several years, in 1921 the publication "Commerce and Finance" and finally a favorable report, by the nine com- was so impressed with the remarkable growth mitteemen on manufacturing, was reported shov^^- of the industry, that they were led to ask who ing a majority of one. had been the leaders in this so very important PAGE TWETNY-FOUR THE BOBBIN AND BEAKER JANUARY 1941

development; and being unable to answer the fewer naps and particles of foreign matter than question to their own satisfaction, they mailed those made from corresponding grades of irri- questionnaires to at least one officer of every im- gated cotton. Yarn and fabric appearance is portant cotton mill of the South, asking him to particularly important in uses, such as dress consult with his principal officers and designate fabrics, where a smooth uniform appearance and six men, living or dead, who in their opinion texture is desired. were best entitled to be considered as leaders by Laboratory tests revealed no differences in virtue of what had been done—or was being manufacturing behavior between irrigated and done, not only for their own enterprises, but for non-irrigated cottons. All of the cotton used in as the interests of the southern textile industry the comparative spinning tests were processed on Captain Elli- a whole. As a result of the ballot. the various machines without any unusual diffi- son A. Smyth led the list. culty. Smyth's own testi- According to Captain Dyeing tests of yarns and fabrics will be call of one already within mony, the beckoning undertaken later. William Gregg, led him into the the industry, The spinning tests were made under the as the industry today is calling to field, just general supervision of M. E. Campbell, who has enterprising young men who possess inspiration, charge of the Department's cotton spinning work, determination, and the will to become pioneers. and John M. Cook, in charge of the Department's The ranking position South Carolina holds laboratory at Clemson College. in textile manufacturing today is a mark of dis- Sections tinction attained by men of foresight coupled Samples Representative of Various with an undaunted spirit. Picture if you can, In commenting on the results of the tests, an industry in our native state with only 30,000 Mr. Campbell said that he believed they were spindles in 1860 that has now grown by leaps representative of cottons produced in the various and bounds until the number now totals between sections in 1939-40. He added, however, that 5,500,000 and 6,000,000 spindles. Only North considerable variations in the quality of cotton total Carolina outranks South Carolina in the within large producing areas is usually found. spindles, yet South Carolina takes first place in "Cotton tested from California was generally active all America in total active spindles and found to be somewhat superior to that grown in spindle hours. There are approximately 200 other sections of the irrigated region," Campbell practi- mills in South Carolina today employing said. "It is not unlikely, however, that some manu- cally one-fifth of the white population, and cotton produced in Arizona-New Mexico-Texas and silk facturing from cotton, jute, rayon, wool territory is equal or superior to that grown in practically every known necessity for the exist- California." ence of human beings. Cotton produced under irrigation in the industry is Today, South Carolina's textile United States constitutes on the average about 7 of the friendly relations that exist- great because percent of the total crop. It runs unusually high ed from the beginning between those who were in grade and is considerably longer in staple than build it. Tomorrow, South Carolina's working to the average of the United States crop. great enterprise will be still greater only through a spirit of mutual confidence and by mutual understanding.

DIFFERENCES IN QUALITY OF RAIN-GROWN AND IRRIGATED COTTON SHOWN BY TESTS DUNEAN MILLS (continued from page nine) yarns spun from cotton produced under rain- GREENVILLE, SOUTH CAROLINA grown conditions in the Memphis territory were in most cases easily distinguished from those made from yarns spun from irrigated cotton. Fabrics made from the non-irrigated cotton contained J !

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Greenville Textile Sutply Co.

Greenville, South Carolina

TEXTILE SPECIALTIES

Made in The South for Southern Mills

STOP those Humidifier Heads

SULFONATED OILS PENETRANTS from Running Over SOFTENERS SIZING COMPOUNDS DECERESOL Wetting Agents Use No. 5 Pipe Cleaner

American Manufactured and Sold by Cyanamid & Chemical Corp. ACME PRODUCTS CO.

Southern District Office: CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA 822 W. Morehead St., Charlotte, North Carolina

Southern Plant: Charlotte, N. C.

*Reg. U. S. Patent Office. *

J. E. SIRRINE & COMPANY

^•' <^i ^

GREENVILLE, SOUTH CAROLINA