Eat, Sleep, Paddle - Part 2 Rapid Development Expedition - Around 2011 with Coastal Spirit continued...

For those of you who missed Part back in a dynamic environment! Progress potential site. The lack of suitable camp 1 in the June issue, and those who towards the bridges was quick, buoys, spots had extended our day, but Llantuid cardinal markers coming fast. We’d been Fawr provided a small busy beach, ice need a reminder you are joining us paddling in an unassisted environment for creams for some, toilets being the more on Day 7. This morning we waved a week and now we were travelling 4 times important option for others! It was a long goodbye to our support team – faster, and enjoying the ride! The speed carry, but we were already getting used to Sonja and Ozzy dog, and with boats became more apparent with the roar these. After dinner on the still busy beach, loaded for 7 days, we start the next of the water, at the approaching bridge and selecting bivvy spots, the incoming pillars - The Menai Straits on steroids! tide continued to come in... after much phase of our journey leaving behind We clocked 19.2km/hr under the M4. watching, putting markers in the sand and the canals as we move into the As the pace slowed on the dropping tide finally checking the high water time, bivvy sea. We started on the 2nd April, Denny Island provided an ideal lunch spot, spots were re-selected on the boulder have paddled about 240km down before continuing on to Clevedon and a slope or rocky ledge! So after an awesome the Shropshire Union, Stafford & busy British beach scene. We’d continued 52km day, 9 hours paddling, the team down the English side to avoid the Welsh settled down. Worcester, Severn Waterway , and Grounds (mud flats) and would cross the into the Gloucester and Sharpness following day. A beautiful sunset, dinner Now Clevedon had had the usual night Canal. We’ve made really good on the slipway, a beer in the local and a noises of a beach town after a sunny progress to date, but have just been bivvy spot at the top of the beach – what a Friday, but we hadn’t expected Llantuid told the sea lock won’t be opening great start to this phase of the journey. Fawr to be the party central it appeared to be! It was a disturbed night! For me today and we need to get into the So being on the sea brought with it a new disturbed was an under statement... , and quickly to make schedule - working with the tides, and boat having an upset stomach at home isn’t the most of the tide... carries... which this morning meant there pleasant, but whilst bivving on the was time for a visit to the tea shop! Good beach... not nice! Dealing with the lack A little despondent the team - Roger, winds and glassy seas aided our crossing of facilities was one thing, but I was more Sue, Paul and I, paddled off looking for an from the English to the Welsh coast, concerned about how my energy levels alternative. As we checked out a possible passing Steep Holm and Flat Holm, and would be affected, and how to maintain portage track, a British Waterways flatbed for me it was this crossing where transits input and energy without risking too much drove past. The man who’d moments finally made sense. Our first crossing ‘output’! Sharing the information with earlier delivered the bad news, spotted complete, we lunched on Sully Island, and the team, well it’s an important part of us and was offering a solution; “Would with some afternoon ’homework’ set to expeditioning, resulted in some breakfast this help?” Thank you, Thank you! We occupy our minds (well it is a development food swaps, and awareness, that I may loaded the heavy boats on as quickly as expedition!), we journeyed on. Hoping for have less energy for the day, or need a possible, anxious not to miss the flow. a camp spot round Breakspear Point, we quick stop! Fuelled with extra mugs of tea Thanks to Michael Nash and Des Reece, continued on, using the last few hours of and a few extra calories for some (good of British Waterways we were delivered the tide... nothing but a nuclear power egg butties apparently), we set off on a to a muddy slipway, with views of the station, and what looked like a large tea magical journey along the coastline. The Severn bridges way off in the distance. A cake in the sea... we carried on. Short team were now getting used to paddling bit of sliding around in the mud and once beaches and steep cliffs... we wouldn’t loaded boats in ‘more interesting’ water again we were all afloat, and heading for want to get trapped... and needed to think and with some good surf landings we salty water, but this looked more like thick about getting off the next morning, which arrived at Kenfig Bay, in time to enjoy the boiling chocolate. As I watched Roger could be tricky with the wind direction. afternoon sun on the dunes. Recovering break-in, I saw that we were definitely A small dip in the coastline highlighted a from a few disturbed nights and some

Article: Diane Lee

14 | Ceufad Ceufad | 15 good distance days, the restful afternoon So all this rest gives me time to tell you wet and windy, the team are keen to move would set us up for an early crossing to the more about those loaded boats...! Everyone on. Final visits are made to Porthcawl for Mumbles, ahead of the approaching low develops their own process, but for me the supplies and treats. The weather seems to pressure system. important things are: being able to pack my be improving. tent/bivvy kit last, which means they’re first We’d now completed a third of our distance, out if it’s raining – so nothing else needs to Day 13... Would we be lucky? We woke to so all being well we were on target. come out until somewhere dry is ready. So “It’s a go!” an hour earlier than expected! they live in the bow, where the tent poles Soon boats were packed and we were At 5.00am it was damp and grey. The will fit easily. My jet boil and brew kit are ready to launch once again! Mixed sets of extensive fog wasn’t planned and the easily accessible and in this case live in the 2m surf greeted the team and within half distance to the sea wasn’t either! By day hatch with my food, more about food an hour all had made it through and were 6.15am, with a mix of apprehension and later, but it’s good to consider the weight recovering from the thrashing! Onwards excitement we were ready to launch into and volume in your choice as well as the across the grey swelling sea and soon the misty atmospheric conditions. The cooking time and desirability etc. Storing The Mumbles came into sight...with the obligatory wake up splash was delivered food here keeps the weight close to me promise of fish & chips and mugs of tea. by the surf, and we headed into the gloom and other heavy stuff – water lives under The 18km crossing complete and whilst on a bearing to the Mumbles 18km away. my thighs. There’s an emergency bag with the team were busy enjoying the rewards, The plan was to paddle for an hour and additional flares etc. behind my seat, and a few of the boats were a little too keen then make a decision to continue or everything else get shared bow & stern. to continue were rescued by Anthony return. Some issues and unease meant I enjoy the packing ‘game’ and easily and Rachel - thank you! Refuelled we the decision to return was made. Within managed to carry everything in my North travelled on along the Gower seeing our an hour the boats were back up the Shore Atlantic LV. We shared 2 trolleys first porpoise, the water clarity finally beach, tents up and the team resting. By between the team for the long beaches and improving. At Porth Eynon, the Carreglwyd noon the team were ready to hit town! I had the wheels behind my feet, this made campsite offered showers, and enabled a The blustery 8km round trip was made getting in and out a little different, but they recharge of the Blackberry. After brews, worthwhile by chip butties, toasties, ice were no problem. This trip was also the first showers, dinner (not necessarily in that creams and a chance to pick up fresh bread time I’d used a deck bag – which contained order), and a beer in the local pub, an to keep it off/out of hatches etc! Doing a further visit to The Shed was in order and refill water carriers. The wind had everything I needed for the day: suncream, early night was in order ready for the everything slowly and methodically seemed – this time for a fishy dinner! As we’d be picked up F4/5 and the forecast suggested food, camera, so I had no need to open next crossing from Worms Head to Caldey to help, but wet kit and sand - yuk! seeing Sonja the next day, the re-supply a lie in! We woke to a sunny fresh, breezy any hatches at sea, and also carried the Island. So whilst not without event, day 13 was delayed and the same anticipation and morning and the wind had dropped leaving GPS, tracker, solar charger. Others in the saw us back on the water. Now for the part A stunning coastline, amazing rock apprehension that had built for Jack Sound behind a large swell, although as promised team carried lunch and other essentials , of the coastline I was most looking forward formations, paddling past routes I’d was starting for Strumble Head. Nervous the wind picked up again. The day was easily accessible in the cockpit. Everyone to; onwards to Pembroke. climbed and beaches I had visited provided banter and some coaxing by Roger, “Come filled relaxing and refuelling... A walk along has their own method, this is what worked the morning’s scenery and some ‘pushing on you two it won’t bite!” Hesitantly the beach, some clearing of litter from the for me on this trip, but it’s always worth We enjoyed the 30km crossing in mixed the tide’ making some headlands more we paddled on and Strumble Head past dunes, reading, snoozing, eating... and experimenting! Anyway back to Kenfig conditions and after a further 32km (10 interesting than others! We arrived at without incident, however, experimenting planning! Texts to Sonja and signal for the Bay... hours paddling), we landed on beautiful West Angle, and given 10 hours paddling and using back eddies and trying to make Blackberry meant we were able to get a Barrafundle beach. Great the sand would the previous day, we stayed here for the the most of the flows – unsuccessfully - detailed forecast, and it looked like we’d be Despite the idyllic camp spot and close mean a comfortable night, but would afternoon. With kit spread out drying, and Strumble Head soon seemed to be getting here for yet another day. facilities after another ‘rest’ day, this time require careful kit and tent management brews on, word soon spread around the closer again! All useful lessons though! friendly beach, and we found ourselves After some determined paddling, and attending BBQ Bills 50th Birthday party positive thought, we tucked in closer to bash! Well, who could refuse steak, beer the coast and soon could see Sonja , Sue and chocolate bananas? and Ozzy on the beach at Pwllgwaelod. A shorter, but harder day – thankfully Keen to make up the days we’d lost we there was a pub almost on the beach to had another long day planned and at 4am, aid recovery, and the afternoon was spent Paul, Roger and myself were up - early sorting kit and another 7 days of food. enough to see the moon set and the sun rise, and allow a smooth ride through a More food – you say! From reading slightly lumpy Jack Sound and onwards to this you’ll know we took opportunities Ramsay Island. We had 3 hours in the sun, to supplement with treats and jacket waiting for the tide, before crossing to St potatoes and bacon butties whenever David’s Head and on into a thick mist along available, but here’s what I ate most days! the north coast. An atmospheric journey Breakfast would be tea or hot chocolate at a slower pace brought us to Porthgain and porridge (the stuff you just add hot and a welcome cup of tea at The Shed, water to), or Mountain Fuel’s Morning Fuel providing a great end to an awesome days if I knew we had a big day planned and paddling. I’m not putting any more detail often a hot cross bun or Welsh cakes as about the day here because you really well! Throughout the day I’d eat bars - a should go and see this for yourselves! variety of fruit bars, Natur bars, flapjack I’m definitely going back! When you go, types, seven seed bars and my favourite checkout the Pembrokeshire marine code: coconut bars. On the canals I’d had wraps www.pembrokeshiremarinecode.org.uk and tuna etc. but on the sea I stuffed my BA with lots of bars! Dinner – after more Porthgain was our planned rendezvous and tea with condensed milk, would start with resupply, and with the full team together soup and noodles, or a pasta mug shot 16 | Ceufad Ceufad | 17 and be followed by a couscous, pasta, the need for good rock hopping skills! As and Sonja’s mentoring , providing rice or gnocchi based meal with a Look we carried boats and kit up the squeaky encouragement, practical advice and What We Found meal, or other sauce and sand, Sonja and Ozzy appeared. They supportive chasing - helping to prepare us additions – cashew nuts, sultanas, pine usually managed to find us, and we (see Sonja’s website www.coachingwales. nuts etc. I’d taken malt loaf and custard, looked forwards to their supportive and co.uk ). Having lighter tides for the crux but possibly due to the warm weather encouraging visits. Tonight Sonja had points and bigger tides to help in the didn’t feel hungry enough to eat them. I’d prepared a surprise BBQ! What a treat! areas of weaker tidal assistance. Starting have more drinks and hot choc before bed. Thank you! in the canals had enabled a steady Variety, texture, packaging and cooking progression and on the water – the hourly times were my main considerations when Checking the forecast, we were now breaks of 5 mins ensured food and water choosing the food. I had taken more gas starting to look further ahead, and intake, and enabled any adjustments to than I needed, and so along with a few counting the days. It now felt like we be made without creating faff time. A other bits of surplus kit, the extra gas was were heading homewards and we crossed positive approach and believing we could also transferred to the support vehicle – no from Trefor with a light following sea to do it, along with all the support and point carrying more weight than we had LLandwyn Island. We were on Angelsey encouragement from friends, family etc. to! So back to the paddling... and completing this could be a reality! We There are of course a number of people paddled on to Abberfraw, but later after involved in making it happen and thanks Sue rejoined us and we left Pembroke being moved on, paddled in the dark to must go to: Look What We Found – pre for Cardigan Bay, seeing Dolphins on the Cable Bay. I was keen to do some night cooked vacuum packed food, Peak UK for way. LLangrannog was the first stop with paddling and enjoyed the sensation – it felt their support, Natur in Llanberis for their bacon butties at the Shanti Sion, where silky smooth and as if we were travelling RAW energy bars, Justine Curgenven for we were also treated to cake and more super fast. At Cable Bay we quickly sorted loaning her set of maps, and supporting tea - thank you! Feeling rather full we bivvys, trying to ignore the sandflies. Sonja, supporting us! Ray Goodwin for needed a rest on the beach before we advice and information on the River Dee could paddle anywhere and the re-stock of Day 22 Three of us left a damp and sandy and Channel, Mark Tozer and Barry Welsh Cakes seemed rather unnecessary beach, Sue would be finishing here, and Shaw for loan of trolleys, UCLan for the – for now anyway! New Quay (not the one going to get some much needed attention loan of GPS and SPOT. Personal team in Cornwall), provided a much needed for a previous shoulder injury that was thanks: Paul – ‘thanks to Lucy for holding opportunity to rinse kit in the stream and causing problems. As we paddled out the the fort at home, Darren Walker for the offered options for bivvying - concrete fast mood was improved by a magical moment loan of kit’, Di – ‘Loel Collins for some ‘big’ becoming the preference for some. Tywyn – dolphins, and putting on wet sandy kit days out and Pete Firth for some late night was the aim for the next day, and we didn’t matter anymore! We met Justine boat fettling.’ All those who have helped, stayed out to make the most of the weak and Barry, who were joining us for the day assisted and encouraged... tidal assistance. Bigger waves provided and in far more typical Welsh weather we good practice for paddling on a bearing, paddled through Penryn Mawr and on to So Day 24 and the final morning - we really and I’d started to experiment with the GPS. South stack, both bigger than I’d previously are going to do this. Taking it wide past Soon we were enjoying jacket potatoes in experienced. I was aware how much Rhyl and Prestatyn to avoid the sand banks Tywyn. Another night on concrete – this I’d learnt! The Skerries lived up to their and onto the Point of Air, we turned in the time on the sea wall and promenade! The reputation – whoop, whoop! After a hot Dee Estuary. The weather was changing good weather enabled us to bivvy yet chocolate break we joined the North Coast and the westerly chased us in allowing again, which as well as allowing a much conveyor belt to Porthygwichiaid, arriving us to travel between 4-6 knots. There quicker get away in the mornings, was also just as the day brightened up. What a day! had been no rain for days and we had far less obvious. 70km, tide races, wind... weeks before I’d tidal assistance and wind all the way! The never had contemplated such a day! Just shallow channel creating some exciting With the GPS set for Aberdaron, and when we thought it couldn’t get better moments, keeping us concentrating to the my fingers crossed that it was going - Sonja and Ozzy dog came over the hill, end! As we paddled under the last bridge to work, we started out on our 49km bringing cake and Easter eggs! with only 1.5 km, was I going to cry? What crossing! Initially grey and breezy, the day a mix of emotions - sadness it was coming brightened and soon we were making Craig joined us the following morning and to an end, and that the purpose in our good progress across a glassy sea with as Justine and Barry paddled off (thanks daily routine would be over, excitement at only gannets and a few other sea birds for coming!), we headed out to get the tide achieving the goal, and where would all I for company. The hourly breaks came and and on across to the Orme. After a short had learnt take me next? went surprisingly quickly and we were break more coffee and treats we left Craig soon halfway... and now I needed a wee! in the bustle of a sunny Easter Sunday Up the muddy slipway with the water So after some basic instructions and with at Llandudno and paddled on looking rising and wind increasing – we’d done some team support and much giggling for what was going to be our last night! it! Celebrations! This time we really had – success and relief! The GPS provided Llandulas provided a great spot and Paul earned the bubbly! expected arrival time, speed, distance had picked up bargain beers on the way! and other info as well as direction and proved a useful motivator. Aberdaron was We were really going to do this! What had If you’re inspired visit Coastal Spirit busy and, with kit drying in the sun, we made it happen...? website www.coastalspirit.com or headed for tea and ice creams to pass the contact [email protected]. See time, waiting for the tide so we could get Roger’s research and careful planning what plans they through Bardsey Sound and on to Porth choosing April (remember that month of have for next year’s Oer (Whistling Sands). As we pushed sunny days!); the build up, starting the rapid development through, I was beginning to understand previous July with 3 training weekends, expedition.

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