& HERCEGOVINA Undiscovered Bosnia andHercegovina etched endlessmountains with (BiH)isa land of seemingly © LonelyPlanetPublications

too rare in21st-century Europe. Many visitors longer stay than they’dplanned. ofa great discovery, sense of real personal interaction andof very fairvalue-for-money that’sall atmosphere bornof Bosnia’s fascinatingOttomanandAustro-Hungarian histories.BiHoffers mosques andsynagogues onceagainhuddletogether, rekindling an intriguingEast-meets-West ing of the’90s butBiHhaslargely regained itsonce-famed religious tolerance. Rebuiltchurches, castleruins.Afew lingeringmedieval scars remain fromthe heartbreaking haemorrhag- societal post-Soviet monstrosities, themajority of Bosniantownsare lovably wrappedaround smallaffairs the super-quaint atmosphere of there one of Though , Europe’sdelights. are Eastern some slopes offer someof Europe’sbest-value skiing.Lively cafes fillOttoman-eraoldtownandaddto riverscanyons whose provide world-classrafting.AroundfascinatingSarajevo Olympic-quality Hercegovina & Bosnia 134

HIGHLIGHTS „ „ „ „

Sarajevo jevo viaTrebinjejevo ( p146 ) track Off-the-beaten at Jahorina ( p139 ) orquad-bike atBjelašnica ( overload Adrenalin p139 ) Mostar

between there andBanjaLuka. Visit MostarthenSarajevo fromcoastalCroatia,crosstoJajceandconsidersummerrafting ROAMING BOSNIA&HERCEGOVINA Some restaurants’ Try BiH’sunder-appreciated wines(www.wineroute.ba), especiallyHercegovina’s richred Blatina. TRAVEL HINTS „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ FAST FACTS

later), Phrases UK£1 =2.20KM;US$11.45KM ¥100 =1.54KM;NZ$10.85KM; A$1 =1.08KM;C$11.23KM;€11.95KM; Money Languages Sarajevo’ Ferdinand’s 1914assassination,U2’s‘Miss Famous for Country code Capital Budget Area Survey thepicturesque Ottomanoldtownfromtheiconicbridge Survey ( p144 ) 51,129sqkm Explore thevibrantcafe-filled heartof thisvery ( ‘human’ capital p137 ) molim Sarajevo 65KMperday convertible mark(KM);convertible

zdravo Bosnian,Croatian,Serbian Mostar’sStariMost,Franz (please),

% (hello), Raft fromFo Raft doma Trailblazethe‘alternative route’ toDubrovnik orSara- fromMostar 387 ć hvala i dovi (house) winecostsonly12KMperlitre carafe. (thanks) đ enja č a ( p147 ), gocanyoningbeyondhistoricJajce ( p143 ), ski (see you

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Canada; see p148 EU, Australia, NewZealand, theUSand Visas Population novisaneededforcitizens ofthe 4.59million BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA Priboj 135 Sabac Gora Sremska ALBANIA Mokra Mitrovica Erdevik Baøka Ljubovija Palanka Ruda Podgorica Ður‹evica Tara SERBIA Mojkovac Bosnanska Raøa Bratunac Srebrenica Dobrun Loznica Kotroman Šid

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In 1991 BiH’s Croats and united In 1991 BiH’s Croats and Bosniaks united s Zavala o B Tešanj Ste™ci cleansing’ Muslims from the north and east. war was raging between By 1992 a three-way Serbs, Croats and Bosniaks. Atrocities were by all sides. Most infamously, committed Croats senselessly destroyed Mostar’s Old while Bosnian Serbs Sarajevo besieged Franz Ferdinand, in Sarajevo. This ultimately This ultimately in Sarajevo. Franz Ferdinand, killed an astonishing WWI, which ignited Bosnian population. Postwar the 15% of and in WWII BiH joined proto-Yugoslavia numerous the scene of its mountains were and Tito’s battles between Nazi occupiers Communist Partizans. independence from Serb-dominatedto declare Bosnian-Serb In reply nation- Yugoslavia. seizingalists started and ‘ethnic territory Wetlands Ravno Gora Poøitelj Guøa E661

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Primošten HISTORY HISTORY alienated Muslim Bosniaks and Orthodox Muslim Bosniaks and Orthodox alienated Serbs, and in 1914 a Bosnian Serb assas- Austria-Hungary’s imperial heir, sinated Christian. dominantly Catholic Austria-Hungary. This became the predominant religion of Bosnia’s of religion became the predominant remained the peasantry of though much elite, 1463. Thereafter the area was absorbed by was absorbed by the area 1463. Thereafter Islam rapidly the Turkish . Ancient , followed by Romans from 6th century the late from AD 9 and Slavs The medi- Bosnia’s early arrivals. were eval its own rather Bosnian kingdom had and reached Christian Church mysterious between and 1180 several cultural zeniths lonelyplanet.com