NEW YORK COTERIE PREVIEW COLLECTIONS WHAT’S NEW, SHOWS FROM TOMMY HILFIGER, WHO TO WATCH BELSTAFF, CAROLINA HERRERA, AND WHAT TO DO. CHRIS BENZ AND MORE. SECTION II PAGES 6 TO 11

THE BEAUTY OF TIME Coty Pushes IPO Back Until First Half 2013 By EVAN CLARK

NEW YORK — Michele Scannavini is going to have a few more months to get comfortable as chief execu- tive officer of Coty Inc. before facing Wall Street. WWD The beauty company, which had planned to raise $700 million for investors through an initial public of- fering in October, is now going to wait until next year. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY “They want to give Michele some time to get his feet wet,” according to a financial source familiar with the situation. “That’s why it was pushed back into, it’s likely to be [the first quarter], but it could be [the second quarter].” The source said the company’s recent results haven’t “thrilled” and that Coty was waiting until its earnings came out before going to Wall Street. “It was strictly Coty’s decision,” the source said. SPRING 2013 A spokeswoman for the company did not reply to COLLECTIONS requests for comment by press time. Coty has taken a circuitous path to the public mar- NEW YORK kets, proceeded by a high-profile but ultimately unsuc- cessful effort to take over the ailing Avon Products Inc. When Coty bared its soul, and financial results, to investors in its IPO papers in June, it seemed like Plan B had gone firmly into effect. But then Bernd Beetz, architect of the company’s current success and its longtime ceo, said just a month later that he was handing the torch to Scannavini, then president of Shredded Coty Prestige, on Aug. 1. Observers saw that timing was awkward and sure to give some on Wall Street pause. Investors buying into a company that’s just starting out in the public markets want to know exactly what they’re getting. Beetz built Coty into a $4.1 billion powerhouse Feat through a series of acquisitions and deals in celebrity fragrance category with stars such as Jennifer Lopez, Madonna, Beyoncé Knowles, Halle Berry and Heidi Why bother with feathers Klum. He remains on the Coty board as non-executive chairman and owns 6.2 million shares of the company, when raffia can look so chic? giving him a 1.6 percent stake. The exquisite collection Even though the delay of the IPO, some details of Donna Karan showed on SEE PAGE 16 Monday was filled with elaborately constructed Design Piracy Bill Returns clothes in dreamy hues and a healthy dose of fringe. By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — The fashion industry might have another life left on copyright protection in Congress. Sen. Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.) on Monday rein- troduced a modified version of legislation that would put more teeth into copyright protection for fash- ion creations after a long lull that left the bill in the House stalled. The proliferation of fashion design piracy has haunted the industry for decades, but finding defi- nitions for terms such as “piracy,” “knockoffs” and “original” designs has proven elusive. High- profile designers — including Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Narciso Rodriguez, Diane von Furstenberg, Nicole Miller and Jason Wu — have lobbied for the legislation, and many made the trek to Capitol Hill to persuade law- makers to take a look at it and provide some help to thwart the knocking off of their designs. While the bill has run into opposition through the legislative process, the two major fashion groups leading the effort — the American Apparel & Footwear Association and Council of Fashion Designers of America — forged a compromise in August 2010, clearing the path for its advancement. However, the legislation had been dormant for so long that the two groups shifted their priorities earlier this year and took a different tack on copyright pro- tection, without giving up hope that lawmakers would someday advance the legislation. Schumer’s action on Monday gave new momentum to the bill and has the industry groups redoubling PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER SEE PAGE 15 2 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 WWD.COM Arnault to Sue for Public Insult million at current exchange. should display more patriotism. THE BRIEFING BOX By MILES SOCHA Arnault called the page one Libération’s headline Monday of the left-leaning tabloid news- was a play on what France’s former IN TODAY’S WWD PARIS — Bernard Arnault has paper “unacceptable” and said Conservative president Sarkozy his legal teams in overdrive. its coverage, splashed over four famously said during a visit to an On Monday, the business inside pages, reveals an antibusi- agricultural trade show in 2008. titan said he would sue French ness sentiment that is counter When an attendee there didn’t Libération for public insult to what is needed to improve want to shake the president’s hand, after it ran his image under the France’s ailing economy and Sarkozy retorted: “Casse-toi, alors headline “Casse-toi riche con!” — swelling unemployment. pauvre con!” (or “Then get lost, you whose most polite translation is It’s Arnault’s second high- bloody idiot!”) Pauvre is the French “Get lost rich idiot!” profile action headed for the word for poor. The image from 2000 depicts French courts. Over the weekend, Arnault the executive smiling broadly as Earlier this month, he said said he is seeking a Belgian he stands in front of a painting by LVMH would file suit against passport as he has numerous Mark Rothko with his right hand Hermès for “slander, blackmail personal and business ties to the clutching a glossy Louis Vuitton and unfair competition,” escalat- country, including several invest- ing an ongoing dispute regarding ments via his private holding LVMH’s acquisition of a 22.3 per- Groupe Arnault. Dual citizenship cent stake in the maker of Birkin would not change his tax status, Outside the bags and silk scarves. nor “his determination to contin- New York shows.

That legal move was in re- ue developing the LVMH group STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY sponse to a complaint Hermès and creating jobs” in France. lodged with a Paris court against Arnault noted Monday that he Coty Inc., which had planned to raise $700 million for LVMH, accusing the firm of insid- has created more than 20,000 jobs investors through an initial public offering in October, is er trading, collusion and manipu- in France and protected precious now going to wait until next year. PAGE 1 lating stock prices. know-how and patrimony, all Monday’s suit came the morn- the while paying his taxes in the Sen. Charles Schumer on Monday reintroduced a ing after Hollande, in a televised country for more than 20 years. modified version of legislation that would put more teeth interview to discuss the country’s According to Vincent Tolédano, a into copyright protection for fashion creations. PAGE 1 ailing economy and his sliding ap- French lawyer specializing in priva- proval ratings, scolded Arnault, cy rights and media-related litiga- Bernard Arnault said he would sue French Libération for who on Saturday acknowledged tion, it’s not yet known what sort of public insult after it ran his image under a headline whose most polite translation is “Get lost rich idiot!” PAGE 2

A former Gucci network engineer was sentenced to between two and six years in state prison Monday for hacking into the luxury brand’s servers. PAGE 4 The cover of Monday’s Libération. Oliver Peoples will ring in 25 years in the eyewear suitcase. And Libération is doing business next month with a slew of new initiatives. PAGE 4 it again today, when the French paper plans to run a headline The next round of textile trade shows in Paris open this on Arnault that reads: “Bernard, month in the shadow of an economic slump that has seen si tu reviens, on annule tout,” or retail sales fall from Greece to Germany. PAGE 14 “Bernard, if you come back, we cancel everything” in English. Monika Chiang is launching a provocative ad campaign This a reference to a text mes- and plans to open two stores in 2013. PAGE 16 sage that former French presi- dent Nicolas Sarkozy was re- The Jones Group Inc. has sold the Sam & Libby brand to ported to have sent to his ex-wife Brown Shoe Co. PAGE 16 Cécila in 2008, a few days before his wedding to Carla Bruni. The New York Fashion Week party scene was in full Ironically, Yves Saint Laurent, swing on Sunday, with fetes from Diane von Furstenburg, part of PPR, is advertising on the Rachel Roy and Opening Ceremony. PAGE 17 front page of today’s Libération. The French TV i-télé reported Ralph Lauren has become a national corporate sponsor that Arnault’s lawyer is asking for for PBS’ “Masterpiece” drama series. PAGE 17 damages and interest between 15,000 euros and 20,000 euros, or Bianca Jagger, in a white pantsuit and dark sunglasses, between $19,219 and $25,626 at cur- was keeping a low profile Monday morning at Carolina rent exchange rates, as well as the Herrera’s show. PAGE 19 publication of the justice’s decision on the front page of Libération. ON WWD.COM France’s richest man and chairman and chief executive he has applied for dual French- case Arnault might file. If it is civil, officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Belgian citizenship, while stress- for instance, Libération could have THEY ARE WEARING: Off the runways and onto the Louis Vuitton has become the ing that he “is and will remain” a to pay damages and interest. streets and sidewalks for some of the best looks. poster boy for a heated polemic fiscal resident of France. “It will be difficult to settle. I For more photos, see WWD.com/fashion-news. in France over the new Socialist During the program, Hollande won’t make predictions,” contin- government of President François confirmed he would introduce ued Tolédano. “Would the judges Hollande’s plan to impose a 75 the controversial supertax as one retain the humorist and parodic CORRECTION percent tax rate on incomes of measure to reduce France’s budget nature of this expression borrowed Due to an editing error, the name of the designer Chris Benz more than 1 million euros, or $1.3 deficit, and he suggested Arnault {Continued on page 15} was misspelled in a headline on page 6, Monday.

eran — which somehow ended with Tesoro being TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS slapped in the face. Tesoro confirmed the incident [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Fashion’s Slap Shot happened, but declined to comment further. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. NEW YORK — Too many shows. Everybody tired. Some say it was Susskind-Jalou who did the VOLUME 204, NO. 54. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, Everybody stressed. Constant pushing and shoving. smacking, though Eymere, when reached in her March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine And now physical assault to boot. hotel Monday, took full credit for it (and not with- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, About 30 minutes before Zac Posen’s scheduled out pride in her action). She claimed Tesoro was Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at start, fire marshals decided to pull 60 seats from the being inappropriate to her mother, saying that she New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses designer’s mostly front-row Avery Fisher Hall venue. first had to seat other people. “I said, ‘Don’t speak to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S It caused quite some confusion and a headache for to my mom like this. You have to stop to speak like WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, Posen’s public relations firm, HL Group. That, and that.’ I said, ‘Be careful, I am going to slap you,’ and call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent the 40-minute delay said to have been caused by she kept doing it, and it just happened. label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine Naomi Campbell’s late arrival, must have been too “I am sorry, I know it’s bad to do that,” she becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on much for at least one French publishing executive added. “It was a small slap. It was not strong. I all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all and her team, namely Marie-José Susskind-Jalou, didn’t hurt her, it was just to humiliate her. She editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints president of Jalou publishing house, and her daugh- humiliated my mom, and I humiliated her in front of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at ters, Jennifer Eymere and Vanessa Bellugeon of of her crew. Voilà. I just said at the end, ‘Now you www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that Jalouse and L’Officiel magazines, respectively. know you don’t f--k with French people.’” we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at Witnesses said Susskind-Jalou didn’t have a seat, Later in the day, Eymere said she had received P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED and HL Group cofounder Lynn Tesoro was trying a note from Posen apologizing for the melee. Posen ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER to find her one. Impatient with the situation, the did not respond for a request for comment. UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR quartet left the terrace venue, when, according to No word on whether Tesoro intends to press DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A reports, the trio started screaming at the p.r. vet- charges. — MARC KARIMZADEH SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2012 Maybelline LLC. 4 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 Gucci Hacker Gets Jail Sentence L.K. Bennett Taps Drouet our ongoing efforts to repel attacks and Salvatore Ferragamo and LVMH Moët By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD protect electronic systems.” By SAMANTHA CONTI Hennessy Louis Vuitton, where he Yin, who was arraigned last spring in served as ceo of Emilio Pucci. NEW YORK — A former Gucci network Manhattan Supreme Court, had been fired LONDON — L.K. Bennett has named “Didier Drouet has a wealth of in- engineer was sentenced to between two from New York-based Gucci America Inc. Didier Drouet chief executive officer, ternational experience in the fields of and six years in state prison Monday for in May 2010. WWD has learned. An announcement is fashion, accessories and luxury, which hacking into the luxury brand’s servers, Following his departure, the Jersey expected later today. will strengthen the growth causing more than $200,000 in damages. City resident used an account he had cre- Drouet will succeed of L.K. Bennett and capi- The sentencing comes two months after ated during his tenure at Gucci to tamper Robert Bensoussan, the talize on the many oppor- defendant Sam Chihlung Yin, 35, pleaded with the computer system, shutting down company’s executive tunities we have to devel- guilty to computer tampering in the first de- some of its servers and networks, and de- chairman and its share- op the business both in the gree and criminal possession of computer- leting data from others. In June 2010, Yin holder of reference. U.K. and internationally,” related materials. had e-mailed his former coworkers using Bensoussan’s Sirius said Bensoussan. “The fashion industry plays a criti- a fictional identity he had created and Equity and Phoenix Drouet said he was cal and driving role in the city’s econ- “tricked” them into giving him access to the Equity Partners pur- excited to join the com- omy — and not just during New York network by activating a virtual private net- chased the British pany and looks forward to Fashion Week,” said District Attorney work (VPN) token. This enabled Yin to gain ready-to-wear, footwear “building on the founda- Cyrus Vance. “Today, a computer hacker “unfettered access” to Gucci’s network and and accessories retailer tions in place to further de- is going to state prison for attacking the gain administrator-level passwords. in 2008 and, since then, velop the brand globally.” network of his former employer, which is Five months later, Yin hacked the com- has been expanding its In the 2011-12 fiscal one of the more than 900 fashion compa- pany’s e-mail, causing hundreds of Gucci retail and wholesale A fall look year ended July 12, the nies based here in New York. As we have employees to lose access to documents presence internationally. from L.K. brand notched 95 million seen in many cybercrime cases, these so- and e-mail for nearly 24 hours. Drouet started his ca- Bennett. pounds, or $152 million, called ‘insiders’ at companies have the Yin, who had been indicted on 50 reer at L’Oréal in 1984 and up from 80 million pounds, ability to harm their employers, cowork- counts of various felonies, faced up to 15 joined Cartier in 1992. He or $128 million, in the pre- ers and the company’s clients, customers years in prison, but because he pleaded has held a number of se- vious period. All figures and even products. This is but one ex- guilty, he was sentenced to a much lighter nior executive positions have been converted at ample in the fight against cybercrime and two- to six-year term in jail. in companies including current exchange rates. Oliver Peoples Men’s Wearhouse Celebrates 25 To Open Outlets By RACHEL STRUGATZ By JEAN E. PALMIERI

OLIVER PEOPLES will ring in a quarter THE MEN’S Wearhouse Inc. is getting into the of a century in the eyewear business next outlet business. month with a slew of new initiatives. The men’s specialty store retailer said Thursday Founder and creative director Larry that during the fourth quarter, it would open five Leight wanted to do something special for stores in outlet centers around the U.S. under the the anniversary — and after delving into his Men’s Wearhouse Outlet name and could eventually personal archive of design notes, frames and see the category growing to as large as 120 stores. catalogues amassed over the years, he made A day after reporting gains in both earnings and a discovery: a sketch from 1989 that he knew sales in the second quarter, Douglas Ewert, presi- had to be reinterpreted for the occasion. dent and chief executive officer, said: “While we Beginning next month, the retro-inspired have the Men’s Wearhouse and Moores stores to XXV special edition frames — one sun and service the middle-market customer with high-qual- one ophthalmic style — will hit the brand’s ity products and exceptional service in a specialty stores and select retail partners. store environment, and K&G to service extremely The $340 to $430 glasses, each available price-sensitive men and women in a big-box envi- in five colorways such as Cocobolo, Slightly ronment, the moderate men’s wear customer is left Light Beige, Raintree and Workmen Grey, to shop mostly in discount, department and outlet possess custom filigreed metal detailing like stores. We believe the moderate men’s wear mar- an end piece engraved with a scroll design or ket is substantially larger than the middle market temples adorned with a retro plaque (a first and we see opportunity for a specialty store that for the brand). The eyewear comes in a limit- caters to the moderate men’s wear customer with ed edition case based on the original packag- a breadth of product that appeals to both Baby ing used in the first collection — a silver case the Internet and e-commerce has allowed the Boomers and Millennials. The quality must be good. The service must be embossed with the original Oliver Peoples consumer to make more educated choices and helpful and include on-site tailoring, and the prices need to be competitive plaque and lined with royal blue velvet. has help broaden awareness internationally. with discount, department and outlet stores.” In addition to highlighting the brand’s According to Schulte, the size of the He said there are about 200 outlet centers either in operation or under resort 2013 collection, a campaign — fea- business has doubled in three years. construction in the U.S. right now, and “we think that the opportunity could be turing actors Ray Liotta and Bar Paly, shot Business has increased about 20 percent as high as potentially 120 of those that could support, what we believe, will be by Patrick Hoelck on Stage 9 at the Sony year-over-year since 2009, with steady dou- a profitable Men’s Wearhouse Outlet concept, and then beyond that there may Studios lot in Culver City, Calif. — will show ble-digit growth for the past five years, and be opportunities in Canada as well.” the two modeling the celebratory XXV-RX he expects the same growth trajectory by Ewert said the company will stock the stores with “mostly private-label and XXV-S styles. A short film was shot si- the end of 2012. North America, Western product. There will be some branded product opportunities and then there will multaneously and will debut in spring 2013. Europe and Japan are the most mature be some downflow opportunities from the host Men’s Wearhouse stores.” He Leight cites the Internet as having heav- markets, but Brazil, Southeast Asia and said the “pro forma profitability outlook” for the store will be similar to that ily impacted the company in the 25 years the Middle East, are seeing faster growth. of a Men’s Wearhouse “because we’re going to be able to leverage a marketing since it was founded — and maintains that The first freestanding boutique spend and have slightly lower opening margins going in.” He added that the digital is a key focus going forward. Leight, opened in 1987 on Sunset Boulevard in average out-the-door prices on suits at the outlet stores will be around $150. along with chief executive officer David West Hollywood, and the brand has eight Ewert said the company is not expecting any cannibalization from the core Schulte, are keen on emphasizing the Web doors to date, with plans to open shops Men’s Wearhouse stores as a result of the outlet rollout. “I believe that the outlet site and providing the consumer with an in London, Hong Kong and Miami in the customer is predominantly a different customer than Men’s Wearhouse,” he said. omnichannel experience by connecting the near future. The frames are distributed In addition, the company will open 30 Men’s Wearhouse and three Moores online and offline shopping experiences. in 70 countries globally in stores such as stores this year. On Sept. 15, the interactive Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks On Wednesday, the company reported that net earnings attributable to share- My.oliverpeoples.com will launch — al- Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Ron holders for the three months ended July 28 rose 4.1 percent to $59.4 million, or lowing customers to partake in the content Herman, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. $1.15 a diluted share, from $57.1 million, or $1.09, last year. The year-ago ad- creation process. Users The company launched justed diluted earnings a share were $1.11 after excluding certain costs related can upload images, text or Ray Liotta and Bar Paly for Mosley Tribes in 2003 to an acquisition integration expense and a noncash asset impairment charge. videos to share stories that Oliver Peoples. under the Oliver Peoples Retail sales at the Men’s Wearhouse nameplate were up 3.2 percent to relate to the brand, and the umbrella — with a focus $604.7 million from $586 million. Total sales were up 1 percent to $662.3 mil- company will post relevant on the sports performance lion from $655.5 million, when including its Canadian business and its value- content as well. The micro- and active lifestyle. priced K&G operation. site will serve as a destina- The brand will fete Moores, its retail operation in Canada, was 12 percent of the total sales mix tion for fans and the brand the occasion with a party for the quarter and K&G’s sales accounted for 14 percent, he said. to engage in a two-way dia- at David Lynch’s club, For the third quarter, the company expects diluted EPS of between 95 cents logue, with all submissions Silencio, during Paris and 98 cents, and for the fourth quarter between 12 cents and 15 cents. For the sent to a moderator before Fashion Week, and a new fiscal year, diluted EPS is projected at between $2.74 and $2.80. The company’s getting posted on the site. Oliver People’s Gallery will stock closed up 18.7 percent on Thursday. On a consumer level, open in Tokyo in October. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM VICKI M. YOUNG

6 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012

Donna Karan: The sun, the sand, the sea, the sky. As inspirations go, this collection could lead in many different directions. Donna NEW YORK COLLECTIONS Karan made it into something otherworldly, and the results were breathtaking. After her play with men’s wear tailoring for fall, this was a romantic Donna, a pure treat, with mesmerizing colors cold-dyed to feign nature. Karan set the tone with the first few pieces: exquisite separates in muted hues. These included several folded jackets over full skirts, and empire silhouettes, such as the oyster linen and jersey dress and jacket Spring 2013 that opened the show. It was lovely, as was just about everything else that followed. Throughout, Karan played with volume via FROM DONNA TO TOMMY, construction. A floating transparent georgette CAROLINA TO RUCCI, THE dress almost cascaded down from a stricter LATEST HEADLINERS PUT ON jersey bralike top. For evening, Karan draped several MEMORABLE RUNWAY SHOWS. gorgeous dresses; a seafoam embroidered and sequined gown drifted by like a captivating underwater creature. It was elegantly rendered and felt poetic, almost ethereal, but the collection’s dreamy nature only served to mask Karan’s perfect sense of control. Almost every piece was elaborately constructed, draped, tiered and tweaked, but the overall effect remained beautiful and feather-light. Speaking of feathers, who needs them when shredded raffia can look so charming?

Carolina Herrera: In Carolina Herrera’s pursuit of “lightness” and “fluidity,” the buzzwords in her spring show notes, she concentrated on slim silhouettes with a little flutter from filmy fabrics — chiffon, organza, tulle and georgette — a logical means to achieving her goal. Mission accomplished on the collection’s relatively simple things, such as an ivory crepe halter dress with a gentle cowl neckline and a white column gown done in tonal geometric jacquards with a caped shoulder. These were light and lovely. Some of the lineup featured variations on an abstract print in jarring combinations of pastels with flashes of orange and black; there were also odd pairings of polished jackets and flounced silk shorts. In some ways, these clothes seemed like a confused bid to skew obviously young and didn’t jive with Herrera’s breezy elegance elsewhere, as in the eveningwear — pin- tucked, embroidered gowns. Similarly, a couple of lace shirtdresses, sheer and cut below the knee, radiated a subtle edge while staying truer to Herrera’s signature impeccable polish.

Tommy Hilfiger: Ever the flag-waving patriot, Tommy Hilfiger is feeling particularly proud to be an American this spring. Maybe it’s the election year. “We wanted to own and celebrate red, white and blue,” he said backstage before his show. “We always do, but lately we haven’t put it on the runway.” Consider it done. In addition to reviving his classic color scheme, Hilfiger wanted to brush up two of his original motifs — nautical and safari, which he featured in his original 1985 line. Staged on the High Line, prime positioning to capitalize on the waterfront breeze of the Hudson, the collection held up to his word. Sailing motifs, ahoy! Many were shipshape, as in the beachy trapeze maxidresses with rope straps and Breton striped trompe l’oeil shirts; others ran aground — the head-to-toe striped suits were a tad too earnest. As a whole, the look gained momentum as the show went on, with successes coming in wide-leg patchwork twill trousers, dress versions of preppy varsity sweaters and a light linen shirtdress with leather details. The most interesting use of red, white and blue was slick leather dresses done in a mix of stripes. Yet for all the emphasis on the patriotic palette, there were a great deal of washed-out sandy tones, too. They looked crisp and clean, though not obviously safari- esque, on cable knits and summery leathers.

The Row: English country garden. The scrolls of Japanese painter Ito Jakuchu. A bit of American folk. Minimalism. Lots of silks. Those were the catchwords Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen offered prior to their Carolina Herrera Tommy Hilfiger showing of The Row on Monday morning at The Carlyle. As it turns out, the designers WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 7 WWD.COM

Donna Karan The Row Chado Ralph Rucci THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT

FOR MORE COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY invoked the first three cryptically, and combinations of varying textures and with passementerie trim proved that lineup: a T-shirt dress in bright yellow gorgeously so. Theirs is a very specific weights (inspired by Jakuchu’s scrolls). stunning needn’t scream. spliced with neon pink, black and white; take on minimalism, with a quiet grandeur The mood was set by the voluminous a curvy trapunto suit in shocking pink; and authority that values elegance over trench-dress-pants look that opened Chado Ralph Rucci: Perhaps it’s his new a braided leather twinset in coral, all edge. Whether they know it or not, the the show. Pants grounded almost anonymous investor or the presence worked in the richest of double-face Olsens are the aesthetic descendants of every look, but delicately, in light-as- of his recently tapped sidekick and wools and silks, ultrasuede and taffeta. Zoran and Ronaldus Shamask. air fabrics — silk poplin, georgette, chief executive officer, Jeffry Aronsson. Rucci also used brights in smaller, For spring, they seem to have pleated satin. These came under coats Judging from this upbeat, fast-paced unexpected doses. He belted a black imagined their modernist vision and jackets, shirtdresses and slips, all collection, Ralph Rucci must be in a good taffeta gown — its skirt layered in copper, transported to “Downton Abbey,” and cut with graceful motion and ease in mood. The designer seemed to have fun pink and yellow for volume — with came away with clothes both hyper- mind — an ease that did not stop at without losing one drop of the cerebral fuchsia beads, and playfully braided one functional and overtly romantic. The the ankle; everything was shown with architectural sculpting and intricate arm of an otherwise serious black suit collection featured unfussy fabrics flat sandals. Nor did it stop after dark. detailing for which he’s known. Color in brights. Effortless? Hardly. But Rucci and endless layering, usually in tonal The long navy silk and linen dress — lots of it — underscored the spirited seems to be taking things a little easier. 8 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 WWD.COM

Zac Posen: When the lights caught in a tug of war. Zac Posen 3.1 Theyskens’ dimmed at the Avery Fisher At first, Theyskens Phillip Theory Hall terrace and Etta seemed intent on a fairly Lim James’ “Sunday Kind of aggressive grunge motif Love” started to play, one anchored in dark colors could easily be forgiven and boxy fit. Black suits for dreaming of a romantic featured big jackets and date by the Lincoln Plaza wide-leg pants that created fountains below. Perhaps Zac a long, square silhouette. Posen planned it that way There was also head-to- because he showed several toe leather — a thick black charming looks suited to jacket worn over a blue shirt just such activity. The mood and matching pants. Maybe began with the first few day the clothes blended too dresses out, including a much into the dark setting, pretty, muted floral silk and but they didn’t hold up to chiffon one and a pleated what was meant as a strong rose-print style cinched at statement. The best of the the waist. Posen continued dark stuff was a cleanly the spirit with a lovely rose- tailored coatdress and a embroidery motif, used long navy baseball jacket cut beautifully on a navy bustier with dramatic volume. Then worn with a long satin skirt. suddenly things turned icy At times in the past, blue with tweeds, washed- Posen has gotten a little out jeans and dresses and carried away with the jackets replete with sparkly evening revelries, but in snowflakelike embroideries. a welcome move here, he Prettier and more feminine largely reigned it in. Even than the previous looks, the his more elaborate gowns soft stuff still had an edge had a touch of lightness. even if it felt out of context. While a few overworked designs may have better Belstaff: Monday was a big served a different century day for Belstaff. Not only did (the finale’s tiered organza the company stage its first ballgown on Coco Rocha), for runway show since the most part his day dresses its ambitious 2011 demonstrated a more grown- relaunch, but the up elegance. day also marked the opening 3.1 Phillip Lim: As Neil of the house’s SPRING 2013 Young’s “My My, Hey Madison Avenue COLLECTIONS Hey” echoed and Phillip store. There was Lim’s models wove their a palpable buzz NEW YORK way through a cavernous of anticipation midtown warehouse, the before the show, word that came to mind and all eyes was “grunge.” Not the ratty, were on Martin greasy-haired type, but Cooper, chief rather someone who loves creative officer. mixing slim and slouchy and For his spring collection, who layers with abandon. he focused on one main FOR MORE COVERAGE, SEE This season, Lim’s rebellious idea: retooling Belstaff ’s Wes Gordon Belstaff girl assembled her look core classics, such as the with artful carelessness, Trialmaster jacket, while WWD.com/ flashed her panties through infusing a light and relaxed runway. a sheer dress and had no sensibility with fabrics and trouble mixing plaids with a play on volume. Citing florals. In his show notes, vintage luggage and the the designer explained romanticism of travel as that he manipulated and inspiration, he featured reassembled many of his stripes throughout the pieces in a manner similar clothes, adding a sporty to the literary “cut-up” feel to silk dresses, T-shirts, technique used by Beat moto coats, jackets and writers and Nineties- skirts. Utilitarian and safari- era lyricists. And so a inspired numbers looked lush nubuck biker jacket chic and polished, and are appeared pieced together, likely to be popular with the jeans were shredded and Upper East Side clients. dresses sported mixed floral patchworks. This was a Wes Gordon: “High Priestess” strong collection with tons of is how Wes Gordon described personality. his woman this season and he had a reason for the darker, Theyskens’ Theory: If the key to more sinister turn. “As a creating a successful clothing designer, I always love fall — line is repetition laced with the colors, the textures, the a little fashion, then Olivier fabrics — more than spring, Theyskens has gotten the and I wanted to think about memo. Since teaming with how I could love spring as Theory’s Andrew Rosen, much as fall,” he said. Gordon Theyskens has settled into worked with mills to develop a reliable formula — not light fabrics with textures necessarily a bad thing — of and prints reminiscent of the tailored daywear, denim, chillier season, like a lovely tweed jackets and shorts silk bustier dress in an olive- and little dresses that are and-white crocodile pattern, often knitted, followed by styled with a simple olive a finale of dramatically cashmere tank top, as well as melancholy gowns. Spring an embroidered knit T-shirt at Theyskens’ Theory was teamed with flared black no exception. But this time, raffia pants. what in the past was a They, along with the rest nimble fusion of Theyskens’ of the lineup, showcased often strong penchant for the designer’s ability to give fantastical Goth-grunge and eveningwear a light, youthful Theory’s Theory-ness — it is hand. And as Gordon put it, a company that rose to glory “Pants with a cool T-shirt is by the seat of its great-fitting sometimes more fun than a

work pants — appeared big taffeta gown.” MITRA GIANNONI AND ROBERT GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY

10 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012

Chris Benz Ohne Titel Patrik Ervell

SPRING 2013 COLLECTIONS NEW YORK

FOR MORE COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

Chris Benz: As reported Monday when pulled apart. There Timo Weiland’s creativity and unstructured suiting in this urban look, Acra’s refined, in WWD, Chris Benz has were pretty, vintage-y, floral playfulness came through well-edited, directional embellished columns — so repositioned his brand at fil-coupe slipdresses cut on in a big way. The designer collection. synonymous with her brand — the advanced contemporary the bias and Lurex-striped started off on a cool note via Not as successful was the remained standouts. level for spring. Whatever layering pieces. white shirts with black piping small selection of women’s fabrication adjustments that Repositioning is a smart and boyish Bermuda shorts wear, where Ervell tends to Barbara Tfank: Barbara Tfank entailed were invisible to the move for Benz. Contemporary for women, while the men’s translate his men’s aesthetic offered a much lighter touch naked eye at his presentation, is no less crowded than the looks offered a similar laid- into feminine silhouettes. than in seasons past. The mood where the clothes retained designer grid, but it could use back vibe. More high notes Sometimes it works and was underscored by more all the quirky energy and a few more original voices came with the flirty dress in a sometimes it doesn’t, and this youthful shapes and simpler inventive mix of color and like his. yellow-and-tan houndstooth, season the capelike shirts in fabrics than her traditional texture that Benz has been and the men’s bomber jacket technical fabrics and oddly brocades, matelassés and cultivating from the start. Ohne Titel: Flora Gill and Alexa and pants in coral. proportioned skirts were less cloque. It was the cotton sateen “I wanted to narrow it to a Adams were inspired by Karl than flattering. numbers that really made combination of scary and Wirsum’s drawings from the Patrik Ervell: If anyone could a difference; the fabric was pretty,” he said, adding that late Sixties. The artist’s playful make a Teva-inspired sandal Reem Acra: By eschewing a worked on a black T-shirt with the recent Internet obsession visuals gave the designers a an object of downtown style, central, unifying theme in a scalloped cord neckline, with the “zombie apocalypse” chance to showcase a larger it’s Patrik Ervell, who worked favor of a diverse lineup of paired with red flared pants was a key influence. He selection of prints and patterns with Aldo for a nylon version day and evening looks, Reem and terrific, below-the-knee translated that into looks than in seasons past. They still of the oft-maligned footwear. Acra appeared to be courting halter sheaths in both grass- layered to the nines: a floral brought out their signature Ervell is adept at injecting a variety of women. No matter; green and black. Even some of blazer worn over a sheer knits — including standout his signature brand of low-key there was still plenty here to Tfank’s evening looks had an slipdress slit up the sides, over dresses in jacquard blends and cool into familiar garments, like. The designer continued to airy sensibility, especially the a poplin skirt, over a pair of color blocks. Pretty blouses and such as nylon bombers and refine her daytime sensibility, strapless bustier dress with a gold jeans (CB Denim). easy trousers came in silk, and parkas, which were inspired injecting a youthful edge with full skirt in pale blue lamé. The total effect was a the designers added a sporty by popular outdoor brands like bold, body-con leather dresses, creative fusion of the current edge with mesh leather shorts The North Face. His emphasis separates and bomber jackets, Pierre Balmain: Now in its third obsession with bold color and dresses. on shiny performance some sporting a tire-track motif. season, Balmain’s secondary and feminine grunge. If the fabrics, sometimes quilted And while a few satin jacket- line, Pierre Balmain, entered styling skewed extreme, the Timo Weiland: Influenced by on outerwear, complemented and-skirt evening numbers felt the New York schedule via look will be just as compelling Keith Haring’s bold graphics, his minimalistic take on out of place next to the more an online runway show that WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 11 WWD.COM

Reem Acra Barbara Tfank Timo Pierre Jil Weiland Balmain Sander Navy

Timo Pierre Alexander Weiland Balmain Plokhov

actually took place in Beijing in subtle prints and just enough May. The move wasn’t the only embellishment to add charm. way the label distinguished Tops appeared in short-sleeve itself from Olivier Rousteing’s and sleeveless versions, while Balmain collection. It also skirts had gentle volume. took a much softer approach Fabrics included organza, than its edgier sibling. Riffs on duchesse satin and cotton in French Riviera glamour led a palette of what the design to silhouettes with a Fifties team called “barely whites,” couture touch rendered in which actually ranged from contemporary materials: a gray tones to black. If the fitted jean jacket topped a intention was to offer a lighter full skirt, while a boxy eyelet rendition of the house’s shirt appeared with ikat-print signature aesthetic, this cigarette pants. collection indeed pulled it off. For men, the lineup included slim-fitted suits, chic Alexander Plokhov: The men’s cardigans and a shirt with wear designer Alexander matching shorts in bold polka Plokhov took a strong step dots — just right for a modern- forward with this season’s day Mr. Ripley. monochromatic looks in white, gray and black. They proved to Jil Sander Navy: Jil Sander Navy be the perfect canvas for his served up an unfettered, seamless play of proportion feel-good collection of crisp and volume. Garment-dyed silhouettes and light fabrics floor-length skirts were worn that evoked a midcentury with extreme tailored jackets, tennis vibe, resulting in a while elongated fitted vests fine balance of sporty and paired with flowy carrot pants delicate. Pivotal here were showcased the designer’s shirts and shirtdresses, given etherial sensibility. MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY 12 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 WWD.COM the american way PART FOUR OF A FIVE-PART SERIES

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PHOTO FROM WWD ARCHIVE version of it.

Though not his first foray into handbags, Marc Jacobs’ Stam bag, named for mod- el Jessica Stam,

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MasterCard and the MasterCard Brand Mark are registered trademarks of MasterCard International Incorporated. 14 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 textiles Euro Crisis Clouds Fair Outlook Pasquet said. “It’s the problem of debt and all By JOELLE DIDERICH the consequences of the austerity measures that have been implemented in a variety of PARIS — The next round of textile trade shows countries, which are weighing on the purchas- open here this month in the shadow of an eco- ing power of consumers. In all likelihood, like nomic slump that has seen retail sales fall from everyone else, we are going to suffer the im- Greece to Germany. pact of the slowdown in consumer spending The European debt crisis has trumped con- in Italy, Spain, Portugal, France, the United cerns about raw material prices as the number-one Kingdom and so forth.” Michael Scherpe, president of Messe Frankfurt France, the organizer of the Texworld and Apparelsourcing shows that will run Sept. 17 to 20 at Le Bourget, said the lack of visibility would almost certainly prompt buyers to defer their spending decisions until the last minute, putting additional pressure on weavers. “It’s a perfectly normal reaction to the cur- rent situation,” Scherpe said. “But, there is a The Première limit to everything and it’s up to exhibitors to Vision fix those limits. There are times when you can’t trade show adapt to everything.” is expecting The same is true of sourcing, which has seen 55,000 increased diversification as buyers supplement attendees. their main orders from traditional sourcing cen- ters such as China and Bangladesh with smaller quantities produced in the Mediterranean basin, issue facing visitors and exhibitors to the Première which allows for a more rapid turnaround. Vision trade show, which runs from Sept. 19 to 21 “In the last few years, we have seen buyers in the Paris Nord Villepinte venue, according to its spread the risk by not putting all their eggs in chief executive officer, Philippe Pasquet. one basket,” Scherpe said. “The Mediterranean “The main concern for the sector today, and region, as well as some European countries, for not just for our sector, is the end consumer,” example Portugal, have become competitive on the basis of factors other than price.” Despite the uncertain outlook, 746 exhibitors are registered so far to take part in Première Vision, a 4 percent rise versus the year-ago show. Newcomers this sea- son include Spanish denim specialist Tejidos Royo, Leavers lace manufacturer Codentel and Italian integrated weaving mill Attilio Imperiali. Over Sixty Years Serving the Design Community In addition, a new section named Knitwear Solutions will be dedicated to [Est. 1949] creative flatbed knits. This platform will welcome around 25 knitters and spinners, as well as a leading manufacturer of knitting machinery, said Pasquet, noting that knitwear represents 20 to 40 percent of the offer of high-end and luxury brands. Some 55,000 visitors are ex- pected to attend Première Vision. A quarter of the visitors are do- mestic, 50 percent from the rest of Europe, and 25 percent from other destinations, including the U.S., China and Japan, Pasquet said. “We have a pulling power be- yond compare because we are the only trade show with a truly significant global audience on the major markets, and the global economy is not suffering as much as some European countries un- fortunately are,” he said. Lacoste creative director A trend forum at the Texworld trade show in Paris. Felipe Oliveira Baptista will head the jury of the fourth annual PV Awards, honor- A visitor ing the most creative weavers, to be revealed looks Sept. 21. Meanwhile, an exhibition between through halls 5 and 6 will highlight the work of Estonian swatches designer Ragne Kikas, winner of the Première at the Vision Prize at the last Hyères International Première Festival of Fashion and Photography. Vision trade To celebrate its 15th anniversary, Texworld show in will display some 20 panels from Lyon silk Paris. house Bucol, drawn from its archives. A sepa- rate exhibition will showcase the work of French designer Romain Urnel, winner of the men’s wear prize at the most recent Festival for Young Fashion Designers in Dinard. Left: Maggie Barela, Sales Agent; Make-up by Kristy Goslin; CANVAS boutique Tawarayama. & gallery; Photo by Tadashi Right and top: Forbes, Jacqueline ‘Jac’ Arlington Forbes, Owners; Jac and Arlington shirts by CANVAS . MALIBU. Texworld is also expecting about 750 exhibi- tors, with large contingents from Turkey, South Korea and China, and traditionally draws Over three million yards of shirting weight cotton wovens stocked around 15,000 visitors. in the New York area—making designers dreams come true! In honor of Sustainability Day on Sept. 18, the trade show will host conferences by the International Oeko-Tex Association, the PHILIPS-BOYNE CORPORATION Global Organic Textile Standard, Worldwide 135 Rome Street Responsible Accredited Production and Farmingdale, NY 11735 Ecocert. Paris department store Printemps will host P (631) 755-1230 F (631) 755-1259 an anniversary party on Sept. 18 featuring fash- [email protected] ion shows by designers Sakina M’Sa, Eymeric François and Les Garçons, an underwear brand designed by Texworld artistic directors Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud.

WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 15 WWD.COM

Design Piracy Bill Reintroduced Arnault on the Attack {Continued from page one} those who have stolen our de- property laws. Copyright protec- {Continued from page 2} the luxury goods industry [an ex- their efforts to press Congress to signs in a fair and equitable tion does not cover apparel, be- from Nicolas Sarkozy? Or, in the ecutive] is going to have to think pass it. manner. We have, frankly, tens of cause articles of clothing are cur- inverse, would they consider that twice about being domiciled The bill would expand copy- thousands of designers working rently considered “useful articles” freedom of the press, humor and there, unless they have some right laws for the first time to in- in our industry who on occasion as opposed to works of art. Design the right to provoke — which is sort of expat tax arrangement. clude fashion designs that are find their stuff has·· legitimately patents that protect ornamental even recognized by the European For people interested in money, often the target of kno ckoff art- or illegitimately been copied. designs and trademarks that pro- Court of Human Rights — is not [the new tax measures] sends ists who replicate and profit off Now they have a legitimate way tect brand names and logos do not allowed to go that far? Has the out the message that France is of another designer’s creation. It to fight this without creating the cover apparel design. line been crossed?” going down a socialist route.” would cover “deliberate copies aura of frivolous lawsuits.” At the last hearing on the The Socialist government, the A Belgian newspaper, La that are substantially identical to Steven Kolb, ceo of the CFDA, bill before a House Judiciary first in France in 17 years, has Libre Belgique, broke the news the protected designs,” and would said: “Coincidentally, it is fash- Subcommittee on Intellectual been on a collision course with about Arnault’s quest for citizen- provide protection for three years. ion week. The time is now.” Property, Competition and the the country’s business elite since ship and quoted an official say- All designs created in the public Kolb reflected on the length of Internet in July 2011, Hernandez, it took power in June. The fash- ing his is but one among 47,000 domain prior to enactment of the time it has taken to advance the designer and a partner of Proenza ion industry is in its crosshairs as applications it is processing. bill would be exempt, and protec- bill in Congress, noting he has Schouler, testified on behalf of the France’s wealthiest families also In France, the Arnault- tion would extend automatically always viewed the process as a CFDA and outlined how his busi- include the majority owners of Socialist face-off dominated to designs without registration. A marathon as opposed to a sprint. ness has been damaged by copy- L’Oréal, PPR, Hermès and Chanel. daily newspapers, including “heightened pleading standard” Last week, Arnault had a La Tribune and Le Monde. three-step process requires a 40-minute meeting with France’s Separately on Monday, the plaintiff in a lawsuit to prove the This bill is about the protection prime minister, Jean-Marc SNJ-CGT union representing design is “protectable, substantial- Ayrault, to discuss the general eco- journalists published a statement ly identical” and that the defen- nomic situation, and it is believed titled “Bernard Arnault, Media dant had access to, or was aware not only of designers, but also about the wealth tax was addressed. Owner: News in Danger.” In it, of, the “protected design.” In recent years, scores of the organization writes: “The The last iteration of the bill was creativity and the security of jobs. wealthy French have fled to SNJ-CGT would like to point out introduced by Rep. Bob Goodlatte countries like Switzerland to Bernard Arnault and to the (R., Va.) in July 2011 in the House — STEVEN KOLB, CFDA and Belgium to escape already government that LVMH group’s and dubbed the Innovative Design high taxes in France. activities in the media benefit Protection and Piracy Prevention “It is an important moment cats who are able to reproduce a “There’s already been a from multiple aids to the media, Act. It could not be learned at in American fashion,” Kolb said. runway design in the matter of a pretty steady flow of highly paid public money. (His other activi- press time whether the name was “The idea that fashion isn’t pro- few days before Proenza Schouler financial executives from Paris to ties in the luxury business bene- changed in the Senate bill. tected is unique to this country, even receives its first order for London,” said George Wallace, fit from public aid, as well.) Is Mr. The bill’s prospects are when you look at the type of pro- the original design. ceo of London-based retail con- Arnault ready to exile his media uncertain as Congress has a tection that exists elsewhere. It is “The fashion industry is al- sultancy MHE Retail. “Luxury activities in Belgium in order not truncated schedule and is only a bill [whose] time has come and ready a tough business, and it is goods firms, however, are rooted to depend on public subsidies?” expected to be in session this one that has been carefully adapt- getting tougher because of pira- in their domestic economy. If LVMH owns media hold- month before breaking for the ed and worked through so that it’s cy,” Hernandez told lawmakers. you’re Louis Vuitton, you’ve got to ings such as Les Echos, Série November election. A possibil- good for every stakeholder and Proenza Schouler produces be based in France; if you’re Hugo Limitée, Investir, Connaissance ity exists that the bill could be every piece of the industry.” four collections a·· year at a cost Boss, you’ve got to be based in des Arts and Classica. taken up if there is a lame-duck He also said it is fitting that of about $3.8 million, Hernandez Germany. But it might be harder — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS session after the election. Schumer has been such an in- said at the time, while the typi- for those companies [in France] FROM JENNIFER WEIL, LAURE “Through this whole process, strumental part of the compro- cal cost of a fashion show runs to attract talent. If Louis Vuitton GUILBAULT, ANNE-AYMONE we found a way to protect both mise legislation. about $320,000. wants to attract the best talent in GHEERBRANT AND NINA JONES sides without stifling creativity, “Sen. Schumer is from New which is at the core of what de- York City, a city that depends signers do,” said Kevin Burke, heavily on fashion…and very president and chief executive of- important to the economy of ficer of the AAFA, which opposed this state and this country,” the original bill introduced near- Kolb said. “This bill is about the Styles come and go. ly six years ago because it did not protection not only of designers, contain strong enough language but also about creativity and the Your factoring partner shouldn’t. to prevent frivolous lawsuits. “In security of jobs.…It has a far- this bill, [apparel companies] reaching impact.” have a level of protection that Kolb has said that designers not everyone can sue our indus- continue to lose tens of thousands try for design piracy. It not only of dollars to knockoff artists who protects those who could be sued profit from their creations be- but it also allows us to use a legit- cause the U.S. does not protect imate three-step process against fashion designs under intellectual

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A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE (213) 955-9010 112 W. 9TH STREET www.milbergfactors.com LOS ANGELES, CA 90015 Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200 Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662 Brittany Stapelmann Ernie White, SVP, Winston Salem 336.714.8852 Natalie Hills ©2012 Milberg Factors, Inc. 16 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 2012 Coty Pushing Back Planned IPO {Continued from page one} trickled out that the high-end jeweler Monika Chiang Sets which were first reported by Bloomberg was having trouble receiving orders for News Monday, was said to be an internal the planned offering. matter and not indicative of current mar- That made Graff the first among the lux- ket conditions, companies looking to go ury-fashion firms to hit a brick wall despite Platform for Growth public have been chastened by Facebook’s successful IPOs by Michael Kors Holdings very high-profile fumble since its debut in Ltd. and Tumi Holdings Inc. in New York, May. The social media darling has seen and Brunello Cucinelli SpA in Milan. more than 50 percent of its value evapo- The global equity markets have been vol- rate to the whims of investors and what atile throughout much of the summer, given was broadly see as a flawed IPO process. the concerns in Europe over the economies Even so, it is not unusual for companies of several nations, including Spain and Italy. to take their time with an offering. Toys ‘R’ The global economic backdrop is also Us filed its IPO paperwork in May 2010 and changing the dynamics of the consumer is still waiting in the wings. Neiman Marcus market in beauty. Core Western markets is also courting investors and waiting to have seen consumers pull back on the pre- take the plunge with a registration filing. mium products as they deal with economic Other companies have also taken a woes and debt. Emerging markets are step back from the markets. where growth is expected, but that strength In May, the fine jewelry sector saw a is still primarily in the mass market sector. chilly wind blow through it when Graff The Coty IPO is being led by Bank of Diamonds Corp. pulled its planned IPO America, J.P. Morgan Chase and Morgan in Hong Kong just as the firm was finish- Stanley. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS ing up its road show in Manhattan. Word FROM VICKI M. YOUNG Brown Shoe Acquires Sam & Libby THE JONES GROUP INC. has sold the Sam have Sam & Libby back in our stable of & Libby brand to Brown Shoe Co. Terms of brands,” he said. the transaction were not disclosed. “This is an amazing opportunity for us The acquisition by Brown Shoe has re- to jump in and to use everything we have A still from Monika Chiang’s mini-film. united the brand with its founders, Sam learned to reenergize the Sam & Libby and Libby Edelman. brand,” said Libby Edelman. Brown Shoe acquired Edelman Shoe Diane Sullivan, president and chief ex- Surprised by the positive response to two years ago. Last month, Libby Edelman ecutive officer of Brown Shoe, noted, “The By SHARON EDELSON apparel and jewelry — Chiang thought returned to the Brown Shoe fold. Sam timing is perfect to bring the Sam & Libby shoes and handbags would be the most Edelman, founder of Edelman Shoe, is al- brand back into the fold. The potential for NEW YORK — “This is a turning point popular — new categories are planned ready at Brown Shoe as division president the entire portfolio is exciting and certain- for us,” said Monika Chiang. for spring, including lingerie, swimwear for the Sam Edelman Division. ly presents additional interesting opportu- With almost a year of business under and performance athleticwear. “I’m very “We now have the opportunity to see nities for us to explore.” her black-studded belt, Chiang has a active myself,” Chiang said. “I don’t see our vision realized as true lifestyle de- The brand was launched in 1987. Jones better understanding of what consum- anything cool that you can throw on to go signers. It was very important to us to owned the brand for eight years. — V.M.Y. ers want. The brand, which is backed to the gym. We’re also looking to expand by Christopher Burch’s J. Christopher dresses and ramp up with more tops.” Capital LLC, is still very much a reflec- For spring, there’s a watersnake tion of Chiang’s lifestyle and sensibility, clutch with silver bullet closure, at which is sexy and feminine crossed with $290, and a raja hobo in reptile-em- PROMOTION the elements of a hard-edged rocker. bossed·· matte leather, $550. True to “The brand is very authentic to how I her belief that “jewelry is about being dress,” she said. bold,” Chiang designed a sapphire be- “It helps that Monika has a strong jeweled body necklace, $395, gold spike voice,” added Terence Bogan, general necklace, $495, and gunmetal chain Your customer merchandise manager. “She’s not inde- vest, $295. “We’ve been doing well with cisive at all. Monika is about the unex- denim,” Chiang said. “We have an over- pected juxtaposition of things.” the-top embellished jean for $2,500. A loyalty program is “I know what I personally want. I’m sales associate in our L.A. office called always in heels,” said the 5-foot-9 de- and told me that a 13-year-old came in signer, “but it’s inevitable that you have and bought a pair.” to wear flats sometimes.” As for the ad campaign, “I’ve want- short on loyalty. Leave it to Chiang to come up with a way to put some of the sex appeal of heels into sneakers and bal- The hidden wedge gives you lerina flats with a hidden wedge. “The hidden wedge a certain posture. It’s not FILL THE VOID gives you a certain posture,” she said. “It’s not overtly sexy, but you look a little overtly sexy, but you look a better. For me, a heel is a mood booster.” little better. For me, a heel Chiang’s mood is already up. She said the company is a mood booster. is entering “the next phase in our business develop- — MONIKA CHIANG ment.” Some of the brand’s initiatives include its first ad campaign, consisting of a 30-second ed to do a mini film since the brand WOO THE WELL-HEELED mini-film airing on Taxi TV during New launched, but we hadn’t established Connect with Lucky’s largest York Fashion Week. Two freestanding the Monika Chiang woman yet,” Chiang audience in history and reach the stores will open in 2013, and Chiang said. It starts with a beautiful blonde continues to seek “the perfect space” on holding a crocodile handbag and walk- category’s most affl uent reader. Madison Avenue. Bogan said 15 Monika ing into an apartment to the strains of Median HHI: $88,084* Chiang units will be operating in the “Ave Maria.” Ignoring the handsome U.S. by 2015. Burch has said he plans man sitting on the couch, she slips out Isabel Marant pumps, $990 to invest $15 million to $20 million in of her dress and silver-capped·· high Monika Chiang over the next four to five heels and puts on a long-sleeve black years and that the brand will ultimately leather bodysuit, black leather gloves have 150 stores. and silver spiked sneakers. While she The company has a goal of increas- works up a sweat with a medicine ball, ing e-commerce’s share of total busi- the man, who’s been working up a lather ness from 8 percent to 15 percent. The on the couch, approaches, and she kicks FILL YOUR VOID WITH LUCKY site on Sept. 4 unveiled a facelift, with a soccer ball toward him. a major redesign and relaunch in early “It’s about power,” Chiang said. “I 2013. Chiang is also building a whole- imagine people will think it’s provoca-

*Source: MRI Doublebase 2012, Ranked vs. Allure, Cosmopolitan, sale business. The brand is being rep- tive. I like to push the envelope.” Elle, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle, Marie Claire, Vogue resented by Showroom Seven. Intermix, The campaign includes a billboard its first wholesale account, is launching on Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles and Chiang’s shoes this month. a full-page ad in Du Jour magazine. OUT OF THE SPOTLIGHT: Bianca Jagger was keeping a low profile Monday morning at Carolina WWDSTYLE Herrera’s show. PAGE 19 MEMO PAD

A SARTORIAL MATCH: Ralph Lauren, whose clothes have been inspired by such Masterpiece series such as “Downton Lil’ Night Music Abbey” and “Upstairs Downstairs,” has become a national corporate sponsor for the PBS drama series. NEW YORK — Opening Ceremony celebrated its 10th Masterpiece represents the anniversary with a blowout birthday bash on Sunday first TV sponsorship for Ralph Lauren Corp. night at Webster Hall, where Lil’ Kim drove even the “We are proud to be associ- ated with Masterpiece and cooler-than-thou set a little wild. For more on Sunday public television,” said David Lauren, executive vice president night’s festivities around New York, see page 18. of advertising, marketing and corporate communication for Ralph Lauren Corp. “This is a great partnership with a brand that represents the same com- mitment to quality and excel- lence as Ralph Lauren.” Lauren’s first on-air spon- sorship messages will begin Sept. 30, with the broadcast of “Upstairs Downstairs.” Lauren plans to create spots for the various titles in the Masterpiece series, which in- cludes mysteries and dramas. Fall titles include new epi- sodes of “Wallander,” starring Kenneth Branagh, and “Upstairs Downstairs,” introducing Alex Kingston to the cast. The third season of “Downton Abbey,” which inspired Lauren’s fall collection, starts in January. The PBS drama series has won six Emmy awards for Outstanding Costumes. Lauren’s support “will help us maintain the standard of excellence that drew them to Masterpiece in the first place,” said Rebecca Eaton, executive producer of Masterpiece at WGBH Boston. — LISA LOCKWOOD

COLUMBIA’S NEW MAN: Columbia University’s nine-month search for an East Coast director of the David and Helen Gurley Brown Institute for Media Innovation has ended with the selection of Mark Hansen, a UCLA professor and veteran visiting researcher at the New York Times’ R&D Lab. Gurley Brown created the institute in January when she gave Columbia and Stanford University $30 million with a mandate to find common ground between technology, en- gineering and journalism. The two schools will use the money to create a brand-new newsroom in New York and also endow professorships and award grants. Besides leading the in- stitute’s creative direction, Hansen will teach courses on computer-assisted reporting. He joins Bernd Girod, who had been the founding director of the institute, and will now serve as its West Coast director. The appointment was praised by Hearst Corp. chief executive of- ficer Frank A. Bennack Jr., a mem- ber of the institute’s board of advisers, which, interestingly, PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER includes Steven Spielberg. — ERIK MAZA 18 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Harley Viera- Rachel Roy and Newton with AnnaSophia Robb WWD.com/eye. Diane von Furstenberg.

Nicky and Paris Hilton at Opening Ceremony’s party.

eye

André Saraiva, Lindsey Wixson and André Balazs at Purple magazine’s party. The Party Circuit ON THE New York Fashion would show up. Purple editor Week party barometer, Diane von in chief Olivier Zahm said she Furstenberg’s customary post- would. André Balazs shrugged and show dinner tends to be one of smiled when asked. With the the week’s more mellow affairs, Monster Mama nowhere in sight, but Indochine was packed there was time for some deep Sunday night, making it nearly reflection about getting older. A$AP Rocky at Opening Ceremony’s party. impossible to navigate the “I’m wilder now,” André restaurant’s narrow walkway. Saraiva offered when asked if Yvan Mispelaere, Carine Roitfeld, he’d grown wiser with age. the Courtin-Clarins clan, Paris and Around 2:30 a.m., no one was Hannah Nicky Hilton, Amanda de Cadenet holding their breath for Gaga. Bronfman and Seth Meyers mingled over She was actually in London, it at Rachel spring roll and crab cake hors turned out. Roy’s d’oeuvres while Harley Viera- dinner. Newton held down the DJ booth. ■ The site of the evening’s

Actress Hailee Steinfeld arrived biggest fashion scene was FEUGERE shortly before a performance Webster Hall. Opening by the London-based singer- Ceremony cofounders Humberto songwriter Lianne La Havas. Leon and Carol Lim had packed “This is my first New York the spacious venue’s floors Fashion Week,” Steinfeld said, with seven of the last decade’s her high ponytail falling over most traveled New York City the shoulder of her black-and- club nights, from Larry Tee’s white DVF dress. “It’s insane. Luxx to the more au currant It’s hectic, from one show to the Ghe20 G0th1k to celebrate next. I haven’t picked a favorite their burgeoning retail yet, but it’s been really fun.” operation’s first decade. The resulting crowd was a run- ■ Further uptown, on the roof on hyphenate of nearly any of the NoMad Hotel, Rachel fashionable subculture that Roy got her party started a has had a moment in New Seth Meyers and Alexi Ashe little earlier than usual by York in the last 10 years, all at the DVF dinner. hosting a celebratory dinner there to celebrate the store- two days before revealing her cum-brand that had outfitted new collection. The designer them. Among the bolder names was joined by Hilary Rhoda, in attendance were Kirsten M.I.A. at Hannah Bronfman, Gabrielle Union, Dunst, M.I.A., Spike Jonze, Chloë Opening Margherita Missoni and Padma Sevigny and Erin Wasson, all of Ceremony’s Lakshmi for the nearly three-hour them among the more than 50 party. dinner, courtesy of Bon Appétit cohosts listed on the invite. magazine, a new player in New Lil’ Kim took the stage for a York Fashion Week events (the surprise performance around 2 magazine has two more parties a.m. that somehow commanded planned this week). total attention from the “I design so women can eat disparate crowd. whatever they want and feel good Earlier in the evening, about themselves,” Roy said. Leon had been on the upstairs balcony enjoying his own party. ■ At The Standard High Line, “We organized really well,” Purple magazine celebrated its he said before snapping an 20th anniversary with a much iPhone shot of Hamish Bowles better party than any of its guests and Anh Duong. So, it takes effort Olivier Zahm and Kim had when they turned 20. The to be that cool. Gordon at Purple’s party. — WWD STAFF word Sunday was that Lady Gaga STEPHANE STEVE EICHNER; PURPLE MAGAZINE BY WHALEN; OPENING CEREMONY BY KRISTEN SOMODY APPETIT DINNER AND DVF PHOTOS BY ROY/BON WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012 19 WWD.COM

handbags to its offering of contemporary Exchange Commission. He also noted that FASHION SCOOPS apparel and footwear. The brand’s Brookfield Asset Management is bound designer, Stacey Bendet Eisner, said she by a shareholder agreement that includes wanted to perfect the other categories safeguards related to control of the company. before she turned her attention to bags. “I Ackman has argued that “it is only a BIANCA STYLING: In a white pantsuit Jagger, meanwhile, said, “I’ve like doing things one step at a time,” she matter of time before Brookfield de facto and dark sunglasses, Bianca Jagger was never been interested in fashion. I’ve said. “I’m a part of all of it. If we’re too controls the company” given dividend keeping a low profile Monday morning always been interested in style. For scattered, I can’t give my full attention.” payments. — EVAN CLARK at Carolina Herrera’s show. Across the me, whatever was in fashion in the The brand, which is on course to bring way, actress Julianne Hough was besieged Seventies, Eighties or Nineties didn’t in $175 million in retail sales in 2012, is PLAZA AND PENN: Angelo Galasso knows how with photographers. Blinking her matter. Style is knowing yourself and releasing three bag styles, named the Olivia, to throw a party. Just ask the hundreds way through a few questions, the what looks good on you. See and D, as well as clutches for spring. of guests who turned out for the Italian “Footloose” actress told WWD, “Sorry, “Beauty is timeless. It’s not about Clutches will start at $220, while the larger designer’s party on the opening night of I’m blinded.” Without the slightest trace skirt lengths, colors or certain moods,” bags, which come in five different colors New York Fashion Week. Everyone from of irony, she said her latest project is an Jagger said. “I’m a great believer in and various skins, including snake and Penn Badgley and Sean Avery to David Lipman adaptation of the Nicholas Sparks’ book style and I’m hopeful more women lizard, will start at $495. and Allan Houston got a firsthand peek at “Safe Haven.” And next month Hough will understand that.” Bag shapes include a rectangular tote, Galasso’s spring collection at his new over- headlines “Time and a Half.” Fran Lebowitz was at the show with a square day bag and a chic satchel. the-top luxury store in the Edwardian Graydon Carter, and said she’d been — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Room of The Plaza hotel. to three shows this season — Diane von Furstenberg, Charlotte Ronson and JOHNSON’S UPDATE: J.C. Penney ’s chief Herrera. “I have to know you for 30 executive officer Ron Johnson has taken to years,” said Lebowitz, about her show touching base directly to customers. In a strategy. And has she known Ronson second e-mail to those on the retailer’s for 30 years? “I’ve known her since customer mailing list, Johnson — who she was a child,” referring to the began e-mailing customers last month — 35-year-old designer. wrote: “Let me start with a special thanks Asked what she’s been up to lately, to those who responded to my first e-mail. Lebowitz deadpanned, “Sulking.” As Praise or criticism, nothing beats honest for any parties she’s going to during feedback. It’s what makes us better.” fashion week, Lebowitz said, “I don’t He told parents that the 1.6 million free remember the parties I go to.” haircuts to kids last month were so popular Ivanka Trump, wearing a Carolina the company will give away haircuts to Herrera dress but shoes from her own kids from kindergarten to sixth grade line, attended her first show of fashion every Sunday beginning in November. week. She said she’s been busy with her He also said the “new jcpenney” is fashion company. “It’s been really terrific starting to emerge, with now six shop-in- and beyond my wildest projections, and I shop concepts launched. He noted that like to project aggressively.” the retailer just launched its own private

— ROSEMARY FEITELBERG label apparel line under the “jcp” name, GALASSO HARRISON/GETTY FRAZER IMAGES FOR ANGELO PHOTO BY AND LISA LOCKWOOD and that rounding up to the nearest dollar David Lipman, Sean Avery and Angelo Galasso. at checkout contributed to more than $3 TORY ON RODEO: Tory Burch’s retail million that will be donated to the Boys & “New York is the heart of the fashion march continues. The brand is set Girls Clubs of America and 4-H as part of world,” Galasso said, explaining why he to open a 3,500-square-foot location the JCP Cares program. — VICKI M. YOUNG opted to open a store in Manhattan to in November next year at 366 North complement his units in Moscow, London Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Tory THANKS BUT NO THANKS: General Growth and Milan. In the four months since Burch president Brigitte Kleine told Properties Inc. wants to carry on with its opening, he said the store’s performance WWD in June that it takes the brand own plans. Activist investor William Ackman has been “amazing. We used to have a lot 18 months to prepare a location for has been trying to organize a takeover of of customers from New York who shopped its retail introduction. The new store the mall giant with Simon Property Group at our London store. They like the concept won’t be far from Tory Burch’s outpost Inc. since October. But Sandeep Mathrani, of the line, which is traditional with a bit of on Robertson Boulevard, which was chief executive officer, sent Ackman a a twist. Men are now crazy about creating opened in 2005. This year, Tory Burch letter Monday noting that the company’s their own look, and this makes it very easy.” plans to add some 25 locations to its just starting to perk up. “The Board has The event also celebrated Galasso’s current global retail base of more than unanimously determined that the best Polso Orologio watch cuff shirts, which 70 stores. — RACHEL BROWN value for all shareholders will be achieved were shown with 30 premier watches Julianne by GGP continuing to execute on its well- created by Jacob & Co. Guests were also Hough ADDING A BAG: After 10 years in the conceived business plan,” the ceo said treated to a performance by rock-jazz

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY business, Alice + Olivia is introducing in the letter, filed with the Securities and pianist Elew. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

Laura Smalls’ Big Moment

By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

NEW YORK — First Lady Michelle For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Obama rocketed Laura Smalls’ name into the national news by wearing two dresses from the little-known de- signer during last week’s Democratic Spaces National Convention. Having sold her collection to only three stores for the past year, Smalls is COMMERCIAL trying to get used to the overnight interest REAL ESTATE DESIGNERS {3} ...... $45K - $85K Boys / Girls • Denims in her life. In a phone interview Monday, Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 Prod Pattern Maker Smalls said she was groggy from work- [email protected] Experienced, strong draping skill, able to fit & correct patterns in Lectra. ing until 4 a.m. preparing for her first Grading Foreman Knowledge of sewing/construction is a must. runway show tonight at the Andaz hotel. Experienced Only

PHOTO BY ALEX WONG/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY Production Coord The designer said of the 90-person guest Fax resume to 631-385-2141 or Min. 5 yrs exp. Hardworking, detail Michele Obama in Laura Smalls with Email: [email protected] list, “There is more press coming because Showrooms & Lofts oriented to coordinate all aspects of daughter Sasha and President Obama. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS prod. Specing & garment knowledge people are like, ‘Who is this person?’” Great ’New’ Office Space Avail required. MERCHANDISER [email protected] A graduate of Parsons The New on staff in the White House is,” said ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 WOMEN’S SCARVES Men’s Dress Furnishings firm expand- School for Design, Smalls spent years Smalls, declining to provide further ing into women’s accessories seeking designing outerwear for Amerex and details. When “Inside Edition” came merchandiser for women’s scarves. PRODUCTION ASS’T Minimum 5 years merchandise man- raising three children before she ven- calling last week, she said, “I answered agement experience in better and Reputable men’s apparel company of bridge women’s scarves necessary. 30 yrs looking to add a Production As- tured out on her own in 2009. She runs some questions. But I didn’t want to go Interested parties may email their re- sistant to assist in growth. Individual her label from the family’s East 60th on air because I don’t want to trade on sume to [email protected] needs to have 8+ yrs experience in de- tail oriented followup and communica- Street apartment, with her only other the First Lady’s name.” tion with overseas vendors. Knowledge in Walmart Retail Link a must and full-time employee being her husband, Two other women whose voices Winfashion a plus. Salary commensu- Willis, who worked in finance at CBS carry — opera singer Kathleen Battle rate with experience. Please email all and later as a restaurant consultant. and Valerie Simpson (of Ashford resumes to [email protected] Smalls first introduced Michelle & Simpson) — are also showing off Obama to her designs via the First Smalls’ skills as clients. Those less Lady’s former go-to stylist, Ikram familiar with her work will check out (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Goldman. “Ikram is not handling Mrs. the 28-piece line, which wholesales be- Obama’s clothes right now. Someone tween $195 and $425, tonight. Another reason to love The Fabric of Our Lives®

Camilla Belle

Flawless in cotton, fluent in fashion, her star on the rise. Celebrate Camilla Belle’s passions, from singing to dancing, and see her embrace cotton’s style and versatility, along with Emmy Rossum, in the new commercials from Cotton Incorporated.

AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2012 Cotton Incorporated. WWDCOTERIESECTION II

PATTERN

Designers are having a field day for spring with a panoply of shapes, JAMES BIANCA ASSISTANT: FASHION NT; forms, prints and colors. PLAY For example, this lively polyester blend peplum halter by Artelier Nicole Miller exudes QONES TO graphic femininity. Artelier, along with WATCH Ben-Amun (necklace), Hat Attack (hats) and Illesteva (sunglasses) QRETAILERS: will be showcased at the Fashion Coterie LOOKING FOR trade show at the Jacob CHOICES K. Javits Convention Center, Sept. 19 to 21. QNEW YORK PHOTO BY ELI SCHMIDT STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE SCENE PHOTO ASSISTANT: JEREMIAH HULL; MODEL: KLARA/MUSE; HAIR BY JENNIFER BRENT USING KERASTASE PARIS; MAKEUP BY TAMAH K/SEE MANAGEME TAMAH MAKEUP BY PARIS; JENNIFER BRENT USING KERASTASE JEREMIAH HULL; MODEL: KLARA/MUSE; HAIR BY PHOTO ASSISTANT: 2 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDCOTERIE

A look at John McNulty’s and Cris Scene Criswell’s new restaurant Swine. As any showgoer can attest, New York is all about options, especially the city’s cultural and dining scene. Whatever preferences one might have for art, food or after-work fun, Manhattan can match all of the above and then some. Here, a glimpse of some of the city’s newer sites. By Rosemary Feitelberg

COTERIE AT A GLANCE Date: Sept. 19 to 21. Location: Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, Eleventh Avenue and 37th Street, New York, N.Y. And starting Sept. 16, downtown gal- rough-and-tumble bar upstairs with a Show hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. lerygoers will soon have another stop vintage pinball machine and limited- to make. The new space P opens Sept. edition rock ’n’ roll photographs. To help NEW FEATURES 16 at 334 Broome Street with “Process diners from forgetting where to find chef ▲ Accessories@Coterie, a highly 01: Joy,” featuring work by Chauncey Phil Conlon’s crispy pig’s head terrine, edited and defined section dedi- Hare, Christine Hill and Karel Martens. Swine’s phone number is 212-255-PORK. cated to fashion accessories. Founder Prem Krishnamurthy, cofound- Pork is also on the menu at Ryu’s ▲ The launch of young, er of the design studio Project Projects, new “snack window” that just opened contemporary men’s wear wants P to take many forms. Given that, on Greenwich Street. Geared for lunch- designs in the TMRW section. every day at 6 p.m. — as if to symbolize time passers-by and late-night bar hop- John Baldesarri’s “Kiss Kiss” will be up-for- punching a time clock — the pages of pers, the window offers on-the-go al- grabs at Christie’s First Open sale Sept. 19. Contact: [email protected] Hare’s books on view will be turned to ternatives to deli runs and food carts. show new images and texts, which are (Getting sandwiches on-the-run also meant to reflect on the shifting pres- means missing owner Scott Disick.) SPEND WISELY will be on view for the first time since sures of life and work. And fashion types who flock to Koi The economy being what it is, most they were produced from transparen- As the name suggests, Temp, the at the Bryant Park Hotel will soon have working folks aren’t rushing out to bol- cies found earlier this year in a storage just-opened, noncommercial art and another option. Chef Robb Lucas will ster their art collections. bin at the Gordon Parks Foundation. performance space in TriBeCa, will be start serving crispy rice with spicy tuna, But Charlie Adamski and Charlotte Greenberg will also show the lensman’s all about change. The 4,500-square-foot baked crab rolls and other favorites at Perrottey, coheads of Christie’s Sept. “Invisible Man” photos, which were first location is geared for performances Koi SoHo. The 4,300-square-foot rain- 19 “First Open” postwar and contem- published in Life magazine upon the and installations such as the inaugural forest-inspired space opens Thursday porary art sale, insist there is a con- release of Ralph Ellison’s novel by the “Working On It,” which houses site-spe- at 246 Spring Street at the Trump Soho. servative way to buy art. While Yayoi same name. cific work from 12 artists who recently Meanwhile, Edi & The Wolf’s Kusama’s and John Baldessari’s finery In Chelsea, Andrea Zittel’s first have delved into “the real world.” Next Eduard Frauneder and Wolfgang Ban might be a reach for some, the pair of- solo show debuts at the Andrea Rosen up is a show curated by Lisbon-based are polishing up The Third Man at 116 fered five tips for all: Gallery starting Friday. Widely known Joao Simoes, who was part of the team Avenue C for next month’s opening. 1. Determine your budget before for her A-Z series, the Rhode Island that curated the Portuguese Pavilion for Like their other Alphabet City location, you get started. School of Design grad will display the Architecture Biennale in Venice. their new den will be Austrian-inspired 2. Do your research. Hit the galleries, woven blankets, watercolor drawings, and is sure to welcome Tory Burch and auction houses and museums. Read paintings, new furniture and a video DOUBLE-DECKER DINING their other style-minded friends. online databases, art blogs, gallery list- Power Point, among other things. Practically every New York bar and res- Another newcomer to the neighbor- ings and exhibition reviews. Nearby at David Zwirner’s gallery, taurant is filled with people telling sto- hood is Pouring Ribbons, an 88-seat bar 3. Shop intelligently and consider your James Welling’s “Overflow” explores ries. From an architectural standpoint, that will specialize in seasonal cock- sources. There are many different photography’s ties to painting. For his the new ones seem to favor two-story tails when it opens this month. Tucked types of galleries, art fairs and auc- ongoing Wyeth series, Welling traveled buildings. Swine, a two-level 70-seat away on the second floor of 225 Avenue tions. Visit those that offer art within to Maine and Pennsylvania in pursuit restaurant at 531 Hudson Street, is play- B, the hideaway will change its menu your budget. of subjects and places painted by the ing up the popularity of pork. There is every month or so to ensure the liba- 4. Spend wisely. Buy the best examples artist Andrew Wyeth. an open kitchen downstairs and a more tions are made of market-fresh items. of what you like with what you can af- Cocktail Bodega will also play up ford. This may mean only buying one or the fresh juices, albeit spiked ones, two pieces a year, but building a great when it opens in a few weeks at 205 collection takes time. Chrystie Street. Revelers will have 5. Express yourself. Collections reflect another option just steps away at CBU the collector — buy what you love. (Cocktail Bodega Underground).

SO MUCH FOR FIFTEEN MINUTES: Twenty- LIGHTS OUT five years after he died, Andy Warhol If Sam Shepard’s new play “Heartless” is still tearing up the art world. The and Richard Thomas in “An Enemy of Metropolitan Museum of Art will ex- the People” sound too heavy, consider amine the mop-haired artist’s influ- Ricky Martin in “Evita.” Catch Paul ence over the past five decades when Rudd and Michael Shannon headlining “Regarding Warhol: Sixty Artists, Fifty the dark comedy “Grace” in previews Years” opens Sept. 18. starting Thursday. The 150-piece exhibition includes BAM is going all out with its 30th the work of Damien Hirst, Richard Next Wave Festival, five months of per- Prince, Jeff Koons and Christopher formances, artist talks, storytelling and Makos, who offered, “I always thought films from headliners like Robert Wilson, you had to be dead to show at the Met, Wynton Marsalis and Bill Morrison. The but apparently not.” season runs through Jan. 19. The work of another influential art- Through Works & Process programs ist, Gordon Parks, will be celebrated at the Guggenheim, ticket holders can with two exhibitions at the Howard get a sampling of the New York City Greenberg Gallery starting Friday. Born Ballet, the American Ballet Theater and into poverty in rural Kansas, Parks, the the Met Opera “The Tempest” in the youngest of 15 children, worked odd Gordon Parks’ coming weeks. And for those who pre- jobs before buying a camera and teach- Ingrid Bergman at fer to get some culture from the comfort ing himself how to take photos. Color Stromboli, 1949. of their own homes, they can watch the prints from his 1956 “Segregation Story” live-stream of the W&P events.

4 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDCOTERIE Santi at Yvette Fry. Coterie’s Next Phase

up 49.6 percent. That’s dramatic. It was outside the booth By KARYN MONGET even more impressive to see people doing last season.” a lot of business, and that dovetails well THE FASHION COTERIE, slated with consumer spending reports. August • Viktoria Pavelka, to take place at the Jacob K. Javits was a pretty good month, and I think we creative director for Convention Center next week, is going have the same momentum with exhibi- rtw brand Lily Black: on without its founding organizer. tors and retailers.” “Judging from the re- Late last week, Forstmann Little & A number of rtw, accessories and sponse and feedback Co. confirmed a WWD report that Elyse men’s wear executives are on the same we’ve had from buyers at other Kroll, founder and chairman of ENK page with Nastos, who added that he be- shows, we feel that Coterie will be a per- International, had exited the com- lieves business is “absolutely trending in fect fit. It brings in some of the most in- pany. “The current ENK management the right direction” for Fashion Coterie. fluential buyers from all over the world. team will continue overseeing all ENK “Consumer spending is definitely in- Our schedule for Coterie has been filling is our preferred sales venue because it shows, including the current Coterie,” creasing, and retailers are gearing up up quickly, and many are new accounts. attracts our buying demographics, both said Forstmann Little in a statement. for it. People are planning their spring We also rely on walk-ins. U.S. and international. At this point, we Kroll sold a controlling stake in aggressively,” said Nastos. The show “We have seen two main changes already have 30 percent more booked ENK International, which she found- has added two new features — dedicat- in consumer trends over the last few appointments than last season, includ- ed in 1982 as ENK Productions, to ed men’s and accessories spaces —to years: The first is that consumers with ing new accounts, as well as candidates Forstmann Little in 2006, which also capitalize on key categories. higher spending limits started becom- for foreign distribution.” owns the fashion, media and enter- Here, the outlook from some re- ing more aware of and cautious about tainment firm IMG. Following the sale, sources who will participate in the higher, over-the-top, luxury brand pric- • Peter Jacobson, president of Creative Kroll remained with ENK as chairman. Sept. 19 to 21 Fashion Coterie. es; the second is that fashion-conscious Concepts/Fashion Link sales and distribution Kroll did not return calls for com- customers are now more inclined to firm: “We recently came back from MAGIC ment on her sudden exit from the • Flora Petakas, vice president of ML invest in clothes that will last several and the San Francisco Market trade show company she headed for over three de- Monique Lhuillier, a designer cocktail and seasons, rather than buying the fad in northern California, where high-end cades. Tom Nastos, president of ENK eveningwear label: “Sometimes I look pieces.…The market is experiencing specialty stores were writing more than International, did not return calls for at Coterie as a giant Petri dish: It’s a big requests for high-end contempo- in the past, which was quite a surprise. comment at press time. place to grow, cultivate and expose rary clothes that are made in the U.S. Traditionally, in an election year, busi- Despite uncertainty over Kroll’s de- your business. Our buying and shop- ness is uncertain. But [specialty] stores parture and the coming election, indus- ping culture is changing every day. ML have been doing well, even though I ex- try executives still feel bullish about Monique Lhuillier is only one year old. Ali Ro pected business to be flat. I think it’s be- business at the show, with expectations of Our expectations are very positive and cause designers have been doing a lot to sales increases ranging from the low sin- optimistic. Participating in Coterie of- create unique product.” gle-digits to 10 percent against a year ago. fers us exposure to retailers that have After upbeat results at several never seen the collection, and gives us • Sarah Hanna, president of sales at five-year- trade fairs this summer, including the an opportunity to show who we are in a old rtw label Ali Ro: “We have made the spe- ENK Vegas and MAGIC shows, exhibi- globally infused climate. We do have a cialty store business a top priority going tors are gearing up for spring with healthy number of appointments, and into 2013 and have staffed accordingly. an abundance of creative ideas and we do expect to open new accounts. Given the reaction to our pre-spring and innovative merchandise. “I’m not sure open-to-buys are larg- spring previews with some majors and Vendors say retailers continue to er but open-to-evolve is definitely hap- specialty boutiques, I anticipate the mo- watch their dollars, but that they are pening. Manufacturers and retailers mentum will only continue through the increasingly reallocating their buys for are understanding that the rules of the show. We have kept the line looking spe- brands and product that have a proven past may no longer apply. Retail looks cial and novel, which is critical to bou- track record as well as for red-carpet and sounds very different than it used tiques during challenging times. looks favored by celebrities. to; you have to be open to new con- “We have a number of appointments “Retailers that remain loyal to ven- cepts, open to evolve.” booked already from our existing cus- dors are leveraging their relationships tomer base and have concentrated on by maintaining good credit terms,” said • Victor Cavallo, cofounder of Mimi & Coco. underpenetrated geographic regions. I Victor Cavallo, cofounder of Mimi & rtw: “My expectations are positive as think buyers are still cautious, especial- Coco, a ready-to-wear house. “In this retailers are sticking to what has been ly during an election year. I do not be- case, budgets will be bigger for their working for them recently. I expect to lieve there are bigger budgets but rath- favorite vendors. However, vendors and see between $250,000 and $400,000 [in rather than overseas, and that are still er, a reallocation of dollars to lines that retailers alike are being a lot stricter orders] from a variety of domestic and available at competitive prices.” are performing well, to new lines, and with policies and terms. It’s not so international buyers at Coterie...The to lines that look fresh and current.” much that buyers will be throwing more mood of retailers is upbeat but still • Helena Stuart, owner and designer of Only money around, but definitely allocating cautious. It will be a good show for Hearts innerwear and apparel, as well as three • Maria Lucia Hohan, designer of her namesake more budget toward their sure bets.” companies that have been steadfast boutiques in New York and three in Rome: label of designer cocktail dresses and evening “Retailers are waiting longer to buy, in recent years, through strong strate- “We’ve been bringing select pieces of in- gowns, based in Bucharest, Romania: “I am not planning out as much as they did gic relationships. International buyers timate apparel to Coterie since the first realistic as always and I know that the before. They are cautiously planning, from emerging markets are the most edition at the Plaza Hotel in the Nineties. market is looking for fast fashion that’s which means there’s more room to go upbeat. At Coterie, there will indeed These pieces have become essential affordable and with very flexible pay- to the show and they’re more apt to be growth for brands that are offering layering for ready-to-wear stores. They ment and delivery terms. Considering buy,” said David Asmar, owner of sales something true and well made.” include baby dolls, bralettes, camis, che- my [designs’] consistent appearance on firm The Asmar Group, which reps mises, slips, tap pants and bike shorts. the red carpet this year, I hope I will Gage and Brave Beltworks. • Melinda Wansbrough, director of sales for “On the business side, the climate is have a chance at Coterie to find stockists Nastos summed up the upbeat mood VPL contemporary dresses and innerwear: still challenging, and it’s hard to tell with interested in my line. But I do have sev- this way: “Attendance at ENK Vegas was “Innerwear as outerwear is [designer] the upcoming election. But we do expect eral appointments, and I actually decid- Victoria Bartlett’s thing. Her color pal- a 10 percent increase from last year. For ed to exhibit at Coterie because I have ette is always considered cutting-edge, example, in Japan, which is still sensi- had requests from many U.S. stockists Kanupriya at Yvette Fry. but still commercial enough to reach tive economically, we have been able to for the past three seasons.” that big spectrum of clientele. The VPL continually develop existing accounts dress collection is inspired by the VPL while strategically opening new doors.” • Yvette Fry, owner of sales firm Yvette Fry Inc.: bra collection, and most of the silhou- “[I’ve been showing my] brands at Coterie ettes come from the bras. • Cori Cascante, vice president of sales and for 10 years because it brings a national “We exhibited at Coterie for the first marketing for Bleu Lab, a reversible denim and international group of quality buy- time last season and thought it was brand: “We expect budgets will be high- ers. It has the most current and fashion- very successful. Stores come to write er at Coterie. That’s what we recently forward lines, and is one of the few trade orders. We had solid bookings and experienced at Project Las Vegas and shows that has a lot of energy. I am hop- picked up many stores we otherwise [bigger budgets] seems to be the overall ing for a few points ahead of last year. wouldn’t have reached. direction [among buyers]. Based on even Our strongest designers [including Tai, “Our sell-throughs have been very greater response to our spring collection Santi and Kanupriya] will be at Coterie strong.…Budgets are always based on the and our new men’s and women’s tops, we and their numbers are up. Our collec- previous selling season, and fortunately, are seeing a positive shift in the buying tions offer color, newness, trend and VPL has a proven track record for perfor- community with new doors opening and lower pricing but still maintain quality. mance. We are definitely expecting to pick healthy orders. We anticipate this trend Accessories have always been the easiest up new accounts — we had stores waiting to continue at Coterie. Coterie was and way to update.”

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WWDCOTERIE Accessories:

Imitation A New Infusion gold-plated brass, collection incor- Swarovski By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD porates hand- Elements, painted resin and Labradorite THE HIGH-END contemporary jewel- gold-plated brass and blue ry market is experiencing some grow- instead of 18- chalcedony ing pains. karat gold and pre- earrings Considered by many as the “it” cat- cious stones, which from Alexis egory, the segment, which is known for are found in the luxe Bittar. its accessible price and edgy designs, collection. has slowly broadened its price spec- For example, Ross will trum in order to cater to recession- introduce a turquoise resin neck- weary consumers. lace for “a few hundred dollars” With an influx of contemporary that is a reinterpretation of the brands and fine jewelers offering diffu- $15,000 raw aquamarine and sion lines, designers have lowered pric- diamond necklace from her fine es to remain simultaneously competitive jewelry collection. and attractive to shoppers, who are look- “We’ve doubled our sales ing for new ways to update their closets. since we launched Boutique “The impulse buy has changed,” four years ago,” she said. said Paige Novick, who will showcase “There’s always newness. her namesake brand’s costume col- The cost to develop sample lines for lection next week at the Coterie show, Boutique is far less expensive.” where the category will have Case in point: Ross its own new designated sec- spent $60,000 recently, de- tion called Accessories@ veloping a small fine jew- Coterie. “When the econ- elry collection. That cost omy dropped in 2008, tends to fluctuate as di- costume jewelry priced amond, gold and silver around $600 to $700 re- prices remain volatile. ally thrived. Now, that im- “With the fashion pulse purchase falls into line, it frankly doesn’t the $300-to-$400 range.” matter,” she said. “The A vermeil and Lucite necklace The move signals a prices are such that I can from Erickson Beamon. slight shift from the dog make large sample lines.” days of the recession, Even though the tion that infuses a when more shoppers were Boutique collection is military feel, as well Tahiti-era art — that willing to splurge on high- inexpensive, Ross un- as a “psychedelic” takes the form of bright brow costume collections derscored the impor- floral collection with orange and gold earrings, rather than buy high-bling tance of quality and in- neon colors. Both col- as well as a gold filigree fine jewelry, Novick said. novative design. lections retail between flamenco collar, among “Anything over $400, “Whether you are $90 and $600. other things. Manevitz will and retailers have to think spending $100 or $200, to “Costume and fashion also be weaving in chord for about it a little more,” give customers a piece of jewelry went wild,” he said, color with metal motifs and she said, adding that she junk is not respectful,” noting that he will stretch his stones, such as pearl, onyx launched a mid-price col- she offered. namesake label’s reach with and rhinestones. lection at Accessories “We never cut cor- the introduction of fine and “Jewelry is getting bolder, not Circuit last August to meet ners. We make things bridge collections next year. “I smaller, and right now gold is the that demand. “We’ve built by hand, literally,” think what we are seeing now is that color that sells best because it’s our business on a good- said Karen Erickson, it’s a real chase to hit a low price point. bright and goes with everything,” he better-best model and that Erickson Beamon co- But, I refuse to budge on quality.” said. To deal with high gold prices, he has given us a leg up.” founder. “When the rest Ben-Amun designer and founder has had to increase his prices slightly. Taking that segmenta- of the world was com- Isaac Manevitz echoed Bittar and Still, that isn’t a reason to abandon tion a step further, Novick promising and trying to Erickson, adding that the brand has re- the yellow metal or minimize the size has also introduced a col- make cheap things, we tained its quality and speed-to-market of the jewelry. lection of lighter-weight were making things in by keeping its manufacturing in the U.S. “You have to continue to give value pieces that cost less than New York.” Known for its bold, artistic jew- to the customer and you cannot change $225. At Coterie, the de- That attention to de- elry, Ben-Amun is bringing a splash [course] if the economy gets worse,” signer will show a beaded tail and emphasis on of color to its spring line — which is Manevitz said. “You have to give them tassel group that incor- quality has kept the jew- said to be inspired by Paul Gauguin’s more. You can’t give them less.” porates pastel colors, elry brand at the fore- Swarovski Elements and front of creativity. matte gold that when com- “Today, people are bined, create an ombré ef- trying to cut corners,” fect. Although Novick said Swarovski crystal tassel agreed Alexis Bittar, who there still is a consumer earrings by Paige Novick. said his vintage-inspired for her higher-priced $700 jewelry relies on the in- baubles, “people are still cautious.” tricacy of its design. “Accessories are still booming but “A lot of brands are doing cheaper people are thinking about their pur- costume collections. Right now every- chases more,” she noted. “I think high- one is so conscious about getting the end costume has slowed down a little price down to under $100 retail,” the bit, but the jewelry still has to grab the designer said. “That’s a huge movement consumer. It’s caused me to think out of in the business. I think that’s scary. the box and be out of my comfort zone.” Ultimately, the message that drives That sentiment certainly rang true home to the consumer is that this piece for Kara Ross, who will unpack her is completely disposable. I want to de- Boutique collection at the trade show. sign something that’s collectible.” “We wouldn’t even think of bringing Inspired by Art Deco, fashion and the fine line, and we only bring a few vintage design, Bittar has emerged pieces of our silver line,” the designer as a force in the contemporary space. said, noting that the Boutique collec- At Coterie, the designer will display tion costs between $100 and $300 and Lucite-based collections that mix pink the silver collection is less than $3,000. tourmaline, aquamarine, turquoise and Inspired by her high-end line, brass with 18-karat gold plating. Bittar which starts at $5,000, the Boutique highlighted a Seventies safari collec- A hammered gold-plated cuff by Ben-Amun.

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WWDCOTERIE Retailers: Looking for Choices By SHARON EDELSON

DESPITE CONCERNS ABOUT consumers’ inclination and ability to spend, retailers are looking forward to next week’s Coterie at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center here, opti- mistic in the hunt for the new- ness their clients crave — and organizers are beefing up as- Ron sortments and categories to Herman’s help them find it. Melrose Tops on specialty stores’ store. shopping lists are clothes that appeal to a broad audience — perhaps somewhat older in age but not in attitude — casu- al denim, accessories and lots of dresses. Sarah Shendow, vice presi- dent and ladies’ buyer at Bell’s Fine Clothing in Winchester, Va., uses the Coterie to shop vendors that don’t have show- rooms in Manhattan. She’ll be looking for tops, which have outperformed bottoms. “It’s what catches my eye and what I think is going to appeal to the customer,” Shendow said. “The custom- The contemporary er sees a lot of merchandise. area of Ron I’m looking for something Herman in that’s going to stand out, Brentwood. items that are unique in styl- Great Stuff’s fall favorites — leather anything. ing, color or fabric.” Bell’s clients range in age see everything,” she said. “It’s ers. Coterie is an international saturated market right now. novelty in bottoms. Leather from 30 and up, young in at- a good show for making com- event, drawing independent It’s always nice to get an ex- and suede is really impor- titude and not matronly. “She parisons. By the end of the retailers and department clusive product.” tant this season and we’re wants young-looking apparel, show, I have a pretty good idea stores from around the world.” Grossman hopes to find selling cashmere. We’re look- it just needs to fit properly,” of what’s trending and what’s Great Stuff, a specialty re- feminine white blouses, state- ing for immediate October Shendow said. “She’s gravitat- new. It has great denim bags tailer with five stores in the ment necklaces, T-shirts and and November deliveries. ing to more casual looks but and shoes, belts and sweaters, New York metro area, has a spring sweaters. “We’re also We’re definitely buying clos- wants to look put-together.” and everything in between. In broad customer base — the looking for a shift in the color er to season, so Coterie is The store’s customers want the midst of all this, I’ve found proverbial 18-to-80 range. Dina palette,” she added. “We’re perfect for us.” multiuse, seasonless items. people over the years that I’d Grossman, buyer and merchan- looking forward to seeing soft- Pecor said she discovered “I’m very conscious of the never heard of. I’m the kind of diser and daughter of owner er colors as a contrast to the Nation T-shirts and Amanda weight of the fabrics and how buyer who’s not afraid to take Lori Friedman, looks for uni- brights of spring 2012.” Uprichard at the Coterie, and far into the season they can a chance on someone new.” versal trends for customers “When we go to the Coterie, that both have been strong. Her go,” Shendow added. “The cus- Herman can usually count with a casual lifestyle during we’re always trying to find customers are buying fewer tomer has become pretty savvy on finding a few new labels. the day, but who dress at night new vendors,” said Stacey items, but store traffic hasn’t about the amount of things she “There’s a definite per- gone down. “Business has been needs in her wardrobe, par- son who walks through a little up and down,” she said. ticularly the customer who’s the door and wants inex- “Last week was great and this traveling. She wants to take as pensive,” she said. “We week is starting out a little few things as possible.” do have the volume for quiet. Business is being greatly Shendow said design- that. For our serious cus- affected by the weather.” ers are answering the call tomers, if it’s right, they’ll Abby Yates, owner of the for only some customers. buy it. I’ll buy amazing Bahama Shop in Virginia “There’s not enough emphasis fur or shearling jack- Beach, Va., said her cus- on sizes 12 to 16. That custom- ets for $2,000 and we’ll tomer’s changing tastes have er wants the same fabric and sell them. It’s L.A. and been following her own. “I’m styles. Vendors have a ten- we have tourists, so that 50-something,” she said. “My dency to all go after the same helps us. Our market is customer is getting older. customer. The little sleeveless truly very deep. We’re She’s in her mid-30s, but we dresses are very popular, but deep in product. If I’m have college girls, too. We like they need slightly different looking for dresses, there to think we’re pretty trendy specs when you go to other are so many options.” and edgy, and yet we don’t sizes. If they give the store Tom Nastos, president want to get laughed at. I’m not more fabric in a garment, we of ENK International, quite as edgy as I used to be. could always fit it.” which operates Coterie, I play it a little more safe. I Bell’s clients want good confirmed that there will buy the number-one piece [in value for their dollar, Shendow be more to choose from a line], which isn’t always the stressed. “Even if it’s a T-shirt, at the show. “For the first At Olive & Bette’s, novelty bottoms have been strong sellers. edgiest piece.” they want to know if it’s con- time, we’re doing ac- J Brand, Seven for All structed well,” she said. “I do cessories at Coterie,” he said. for social events or dinner. Pecor, owner of Olive and Mankind, Hudson and Citizens a lot with natural fibers in my “We’re going to have a new “Our market’s been a little Bette’s. “We also shop the of Humanity are among the store.” Brands sold at Bell’s in- designated section [branded] bit stale,” she observed. “It’s Coterie for immediate fill-ins denim brands at Bahama. clude Artico, Gimo’s, White + Accessories@Coterie.” been so commercial.” — dresses for fall. There is T-shirt lines include Splendid, Warren, Vanilla, Carmen Marc Men’s wear is another Nonetheless, Grossman some newness in the market. James Perse and Free People. Valvo and Marissa. first for the trade fair, Nastos hopes to find at least two It’s important that color car- There’s also Parker; Young, Carol Herman buys for the said. And the show’s footwear new resources at the Coterie. ries forward for fall. Fabulous and Broke, and Frye contemporary departments business continues to grow. “Roberta Freeman was a new “We’ll look at the catego- boots. “We’ve gotten to be a of husband Ron Herman’s “Footwear’s hot, and we’ve had resource for us last spring,” ries and classes where we mini department store,” Yates four namesake stores in more brands coming,” he said. she said. “Mother Denim is a have open dollars, such as said. “We don’t want [custom- Brentwood, Melrose, Beverly “We also have TMRW [pro- brand we found at the show dresses and bottoms,” Pecor ers] going somewhere else to Hills and Malibu, Calif. “I go nounced Tomorrow], a section last fall, and it’s been very added. “Our business has buy things, so we carry inti- to Coterie because you can for new, inspirational design- successful. We’re in an over- been strong because of the mates, jewelry and hosiery.”

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Nanette Lepore’s silk top; Lotus Grace’s polyester skirt; Cass & Co.’s nylon and spandex top; Erickson Beamon’s necklace; Juicy Couture’s (orange) clutch; BCBG Max Azria’s (black) clutch; Low Luv’s bracelet; Kara Ross’ cuff; House of Harlow’s ring; Elizabeth and James’ sunglasses.

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WWDCOTERIE PASSION FOR PATTERNS

Dallin Chase’s cotton top; Walter W118’s cotton skirt; Hobo’s bag; Pashma’s scarves; Lana Jewelry’s earrings; Pamela Love’s cuffs. New York Showroom—Merryl Centeno Iconoclasts Showroom—Dwayne R. Brown Sue Goodman Showroom 1400 Broadway, 15th Floor 231 W. 39th St, Suite 310 New Mart Building 127 E. 9th St. #1008 New York, NY 10018 (T) 646-383-8241 New York, NY 10018 (T) 212-398-4266 Los Angeles, CA 90015 (T) 213-629-2493

COTERIE BOOTH #8136 DITTOSBRAND.COM facebook.com/Dittos.Brand 14 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012

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WWDCOTERIE PASSION FOR PATTERNS

Elizabeth and James’ polyester and acetate top; Big Star’s cotton jeans; Erickson Beamon’s necklace; BCBGeneration’s clutch; Juicy Couture’s bag; CC Skye’s bracelet; Rebecca Minkoff’s shoes.

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WWDCOTERIE PASSION FOR PATTERNS

Mink Pink’s cotton elastane top and rayon pants; Geren Ford’s silk skirt; BCBGeneration’s and Rebecca Minkoff’s bags; Paige Novick’s earrings.

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WWDCOTERIE PASSION FOR PATTERNS

Ted Baker’s wool and viscose blazer; Dittos’ cotton jeans; Blue Pearl by Allen Schwartz’s cotton, rayon and spandex bustier; Mlle Mademoiselle’s silk top; Alexis Bittar’s cuff; Rebecca Minkoff’s clutch; Juicy Couture’s necklace; Illesteva’s sunglasses; Joie’s shoes.

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WWDCOTERIE

New lines and new Ones to Watch directions at Coterie. COREY’S NEW GAME PLAN and turned her home kitchen into a front of a cotton-silk sleeveless Between adjusting to the aftermath studio, drawing patterns and stitching shirt, and integrated more seam- A look from of the Great Recession and the trend samples, and launched in spring 2000. ing and self-piping, rather than Corey, by Corey for communicating in 140 characters Since then, she’s grown her $1,600 in- contrast piping, on a V-neck sun- Lynn Calter. or less, it’d be foolish not to change vestment into a company with 13 em- dress with a shirttail hem. with the times. Corey Lynn Calter, de- ployees and annual wholesale revenue “It’s Corey Lynn Calter with- signer of her namesake contemporary expected to exceed $7 million next year out a bow,” she said in her office, brand based in Los Angeles, certainly — topping an increase of 25 percent in pointing to a spring inspiration got the message. 2012 from last year, when she recorded board. “It’ll remain feminine, A dozen years after launching and 15 percent growth. artistic and creative. The intent making a mark with flirtatiously printed While wholesale prices remain the is to get more modern, wearable silk separates, she’s trimming her brand same — between $68 and $248 — the and, in some cases, pared down moniker to Corey, altering its aesthetics design direction is getting an update. and simpler.” for a fresh, streamlined look and devel- Supplementing the popular tapered The re-branding heralds new oping a marketing strategy for social pants that are further slimmed by projects, like her first foray into media. These steps, she hopes, will let seams running down the front and footwear via a collaboration with her seize different opportunities to con- back, Calter added more tailored Seychelles. The quartet of wedges nect to people in a difficult market. pieces like blazers, trousers and fitted and gladiator sandals, whimsically “I just saw things were changing,” jumpsuits. Though still a big believer accentuated with candy colors and said Calter, 43, who will present her in prints — two standouts are a mul- sassy stripes and priced under new branding and designs at Coterie. ticolored hand print and amorphous $130, will arrive at stores and e- “It’s certainly harder. There are fewer coral dots printed on silver, evoking commerce sites such as Modcloth. stores. Those stores are buying differ- Pop Art cowhide — she’s integrating com next spring. She’s also in talks ently….[Social media] can just drive more solids, including imperial blue, for a jewelry collection for spring. your business in a different way. A few lime green, peach and pale yolk, for Such ventures are expected to el- years back, there were a few channels spring. She’s veering away from silk, evate the brand, which retails at for your buyers to see the line — forget partly because she’s tired of its ubiqui- Anthropologie, American Rag, about the customers.” ty in the market, and because its high Amazon.com, By George and Post Calter, a graduate of Manhattan’s cost is eroding profits. Textured fabrics Alley Boutique, among others. Fashion Institute of Technology, start- and blends such as linen and dotted Leah Segall, co-owner and ed her career making corsets. She swiss cotton have caught her attention buyer for Dari, a boutique in moved to Los Angeles from New York, instead. She also added cutouts to the Studio City, Calif., is eager to see the new direction. She said Calter’s designs stand out in the contemporary market and sell well be- cause they tend to fit all ages and body types. In particular, the dresses, re- tailing between $200 and $300, are consistent top sellers as well as visual pluses just felt a little familiar,” she said. for Dari’s blog and Instagram “It shows familiarity, which is some- account. thing we want to encourage with so- “People want change with cial media, and a connection to the their clothing,” Segall said. “It’s brand.” healthy and smart of [Calter] to — Khanh T.L. Tran do that just because you always have to change it up. It gets stale SOMETHING TO TALK ABOUT after a while [with] the same Leandra Medine, the witty writer be- body [and] same print.” hind the influential fashion blog The Calter is also connecting Man Repeller, has teamed up with with emerging designers and PJK (formerly Patterson J. Kincaid) artists for new collaborations to create a contemporary line called in apparel and other catego- MR x PJK…Just Sayin’ for spring. ries. The pieces will be sold The collection, which will bow at on her Web site. Besides a cre- the Coterie, is a cross between PJK ative partnership with her hus- creative director Chelsey Santry’s band, artist Glenn Kaino, who’s feminine West Coast-infused aesthetic participated in the Whitney and Medine’s edgy New York style. Biennial and represented the “The collection will be wearable U.S. at the Cairo Biennale, insanity — in the cool sense of the she’s recruited photographer world,” said Santry. “It will be whim- Emily Ulmer to snap actress sical, colorful and playful.” Balluun helps me make new Nora Zehetner for a new social It can be dressed up for a more seri- media campaign premiering ous look or relaxed to look tomboyish, saving me next spring. she added. “There are leather jackets connections... “I’m always looking for differ- you can wear out at night; quirky graphic time and money so I can focus on ent avenues of inspiration and Ts, and feminine, girly dresses that go opening up the world of Corey,” under a big army vest.” Calter said. “I love making The MR x PJK collection will be my true love, designing. clothes. For me, there is more of shown at the Coterie, sporting hang- an opportunity to do more than a tags that feature a “Repel-ometer” — collection.” essentially a tongue-in-cheek rating Also on tap, after the launch system attesting to the level of “man of a Web site called Thisiscorey. repelling” in the item. This is based com in January, she’ll encour- on Medine’s point of view that trend- Astrid Brucker / Founder & Owner of Astridland New York age customers to post pictures driven fashion pieces don’t appeal to of themselves wearing clothes the opposite sex. CONNECT + CONDUCT BUSINESS: ONLINE from the line. Identified with “I love their young spirit and the a hashtag that reads #thisisco- accessibility of their brand,” said rey, the photos will qualify for Medine. “Jane [Siskin, president of a monthly contest in which win- parent Jaya Apparel Group] is really ners get free clothes. smart and committed, and I wanted to www.balluun.com 2012 Balluun, Inc. “In this world of everything align myself with them.” She said she’d being condensed and short- love the clothes “to repel” the opposite ened and abbreviated, [Corey] {Continued on page 22}

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22 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDCOTERIE and Adeli. “There’s so much nondenim counts,” he said. “We’re looking for denim, jeans that aren’t really jeans slow growth, one account at a time. In anymore. The customer has bought all the early phase of the project, I’d like her new, cool jeans — prints, florals, us to be in 100 stores worldwide and Ones to Watch colors — and she’s telling us that she then build to 140 or so. Not that volume {Continued from page 20} and came in at No. 1 on Adweek’s wants a true jean again.” isn’t important, but getting it into the sex, “but Jane is very smart and said “Fashion’s Power 25” list last To address that desire, Barron, in right stores in the beginning and get- we just can’t put fur pom-poms on ev- September. collaboration with his Japanese denim ting good sell-throughs means more.” erything!” MR x PJK will have a limited offer- supplier, developed an exclusive pro- — ARNOLD J. KARR In 2009, Jaya, formerly L’Koral ing. “We’re teaming up with key retail cess in which jeans will be available Industries, launched Patterson partners who are doing in three shades of indigo J. Kincaid trendy sportswear events that Leandra will — dark, medium and light. A.N.D. at the opening price point of host,” said Siskin, who FOR MORE ONES TO Instead of the usual wash- jeans. contemporary. Siskin said the declined to project first- WATCH, SEE ing process, the varia- company had been talking year sales. The line will tions in color are achieved about the idea of collaborating also be sold on pjk. WWD.com/ through a heating process with a blogger or a stylist for com. fashion-news. that requires no water but PJK. “We went through our Mitch Grossbach simulates degrees of wear. wish list and Leandra was at of Creative Artists Launching next week the top. We have a relation- Agency, who through its at Coterie with first deliveries set for ship with Creative Artists Fashion & Beauty division, January, the jeans will be available in Agency,” which represents represents designers and five fits with a jacket and a skirt also in- Medine, she said. other talent, added: “MR x cluded in the mix. The dark denim op- The new brand is priced PJK provides an additional tion replicates 50 “wears,” the medium higher than PJK and includes access point for Leandra to con- 150 and the light 250. Price points, still dresses, skirts, tops and knits nect with her fans and followers, being set at press time, are expected to in silks, chiffons and cottons. while extending her Man Repeller average about $230 at retail, with the Retail prices for MR x PJK brand into new areas of business.” most worn denim probably about $20 range between $198 and $398, — LISA LOCKWOOD higher. compared to PJK’s tags of $98 The absence of water is a plus, but it to $198. A.N.D.: BAKING THE BLUES wasn’t an objective. “I can’t say this was “Everything has an attitude. Sean Barron’s new denim line, an environment initiative,” he said. “To Leandra’s personality shines A.N.D. (A New Denim), is sitting me, it’s a true ‘jeaner’s’ perspective on through in every piece,” said out the color war still raging in the where denim should be right now.” Siskin, who said Medine collab- fashion jeans market. Barron set up A.N.D. as a venture orated with Santry on design. “I actually believe there’s a bit between Aiko, in which he is a partner “She free-associated what girls too much ‘trend’ in the world of with Andrew Rosen, as well as other would want to wear for next denim these days,” said Barron, investors. Although he declined to dis- spring, and we [came up with] who also co-owns the Aiko con- cuss sales projections, he expects dis- things that embodied her words. temporary brand and previously tribution to be similar to Aiko’s, which It just happened organically.” was behind brands including Joie is in 15 countries despite the absence The Man Repeller clocks 3.5 of any international distributors. million page views a month, Illustration for MR x PJK…Just Sayin’. “We’re looking for top-tier ac- LEADERSHIP 2012 APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT OCT 29–30 • NEW YORK CITY

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