Our Mission The mission of California State Parks is Sinkyone to provide for the health, inspiration and education of the people of California by helping One hundred years ago, Wilderness to preserve the state’s extraordinary biological diversity, protecting its most valued natural and Sinkyone Wilderness State cultural resources, and creating opportunities State Park for high-quality outdoor recreation. Park was an industrial landscape, logged for its natural resources. Today,

California State Parks supports equal access. efforts are underway to Prior to arrival, visitors with disabilities who need assistance should contact the park at restore its wild beauty for (707) 986-7711. If you need this publication in an alternate format, contact [email protected]. generations to come. CALIFORNIA STATE PARKS P.O. Box 942896 Sacramento, CA 94296-0001 For information call: (800) 777-0369 (916) 653-6995, outside the U.S. 711, TTY relay service www.parks.ca.gov

SaveTheRedwoods.org/csp

Sinkyone Wilderness State Park Briceland Thorn Road Whitethorn, CA 95589 (707) 986-7711

© 2011 California State Parks (Rev. 2016) S inkyone Wilderness State Park is PARK HISTORY self-identity, but all groups formed a part of a wild and beautiful stretch of Native People larger economy that delivered goods as shoreline known as “The Lost Coast.” This The Sinkyone people lived in the area far as the Eastern United States. rugged area, about 36 miles southwest of now known as Sinkyone Wilderness This area was probably more densely Garberville, is one of the few places on State Park for thousands of years populated by Sinkyones before California’s long coastline that cannot be before European contact. At the time the European incursion than it is now. reached by a state highway or paved road. the Europeans arrived, the Sinkyone Today, many people of Sinkyone Fortunately for those who seek peace population probably numbered as many descent live throughout the and serenity, the remote location of this as 4,000. The boundaries of Sinkyone north coast. rocky place has foiled decades of attempts lands extended east to the main stem of Traditional practices by developers who had hoped to exploit the Eel River and the river’s South Fork, passed down through its stunning scenery. south beyond what is now Leggett, and generations of Sinkyone The thick morning fog that develops west to the ocean. experience created as the land meets the sea muffles most The name Sinkyone was assigned by a highly productive sounds. As the fog threads its way over high 20th-century ethnographers to classify environment. cliffs and settles in among the park’s tall separate political groups who spoke the Conservation and redwoods, only the thunder of the ocean’s same dialect of the Athabascan language restoration projects rolling surf and the faint barking of sea lions family. Each distinct political group headed by local reaches the ear of a silent hiker. maintained its own geographic area and

Bear Harbor slide lumber products to Dollar resurrected the lumber company waiting schooners — the for a while by use of skillful marketing and preferred method to load partnerships. Despite good management, lumber products onto Mr. Dollar shut the mill down in 1901. ships. He called the gulch In November 1908, the Nelson Lumber “Anderson’s Landing,” later Company of New York State acquired the mill renamed “Northport.” for $10 in gold. Lumberyards shipped wood The land continued to change hands to markets into the early 1900s. frequently, with various attempts to revive Lumber schooners departed logging operations. At the end of World regularly from Usal, Anderson’s War II, the Georgia-Pacific Plywood and Landing, Needle Rock, and Lumber Co. took over. In 1975, the State other local ports. Eventually, of California began acquiring local land to roads and railroad tracks were preserve as Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. Wharf constructed at Bear Harbor for lumber shipping, 1893 built. No longer dependent When concerned environmentalists sued to on the sea for transportation, prevent Georgia-Pacific from clear-cutting tribal groups, using time-tested methods, people settled further inland. the remaining forest in 1986, the lumber have been instrumental in bringing The Bear Harbor Railroad was built in company sold the property to the Trust for restorative healing to the landscape. the early 1890s to haul tanoak from inland Public Land. The funds necessary to purchase forests to Bear Harbor. Plans to extend 3,000 acres of trees came from the Save the Early Settlers the line from Bear Harbor to a mill near Redwoods League, the Trust for Public Land, In the 1850s, early European settlers Piercy were cancelled claimed land in the area of today’s Shelter after a fatal accident Cove. Beginning in the 1860s, settlers and the 1906 occupied the land around what is now earthquake. Railroad called Bear Harbor, where they grazed remnants may still be cattle. Soon the landscape was devoted seen in the park. to cattle and sheep ranches, in addition to By 1892, the demand farms and orchards. for lumber had Until then, the only routes into and out destroyed thousands of the area were those used by the native of acres of virgin coast people. By the mid-1860s, lines of pack redwoods. John A. mules carried a steady supply of local Wonderly, who had tanoak bark to San Francisco’s tanneries. acquired the Usal Before long, the settlers had to build Lumber Company in wharfs and chutes to aid in loading waiting 1888, shut it down ships with lumber, tanoak bark, and other because of the lack Photo courtesy of Julie Martin, Save the Redwoods League profitable cargoes. In 1872, Robert Anderson of timber. In 1894 San built a wire chute at Little Jackass Gulch to Franciscan Robert Redwood grove on Lost Coast Trail the State Coastal Conservancy, and other The park’s small herd of dedicated donors. These acres were added Roosevelt elk roams the coastal to Sinkyone Wilderness State Park in 1986. prairies. Once almost countless, the elk were nearly hunted out NATuRAL HISTORY of existence. Originally relocated Geology from Prairie Creek Sinkyone Wilderness lies near the junction Redwoods State of three major tectonic plates — the Pacific, Park, the elk were North American, and Gorda plates. The rescued by the actions “Mendocino triple junction” is one of the of a group of ranchers who most seismically active places in the state. saved the remaining elk and The park’s dramatic, sheer coastal bluffs their habitat. are just one landform resulting from fault Among amphibious movement. At the north end of the park just species of special south of Whale Gulch, fault-related landforms concern, southern torrent include a narrow, incised linear valley with salamanders like cold, wet Left: Roosevelt bull elk several sag ponds, which are clear indicators places; tailed frogs find Above: Small herd refuge among stands of of fault activity. of Roosevelt elk The park’s beaches are mostly black sand, Douglas-fir, redwood, resting at the Needle with tiny rock fragments derived from the and Sitka spruce. Rock Visitor Center local Franciscan bedrock. The sands are Adult coastal giant made up of dark, iron-rich mineral grains, salamanders can be found in the forests, and Climate and small cobbles and gravels. Sometimes, their larval stages are more conspicuous unusual purple and pink sand beaches in streams. Foothill yellow-legged frogs Summer temperatures range from 45 appear within the park and then vanish. prefer streams with rocky shores, such as to 75 degrees. Summer fog is usually gone by Brought about by the “washing” action Usal Creek. mid-morning. Rain is most common between of the surf, this event occurs when waves Overhead, raptors — including red-tailed November and May, when the temperatures winnow the heavier sand grains back into hawks, Cooper’s hawks, sharp-shinned hawks, range from 35 to 55 degrees. the sea, leaving behind a “frosting” of pink golden eagles, northern harriers, peregrine Climate change affects all living things or purplish garnet sand grains that cover the falcons, spotted owls, and ospreys — descend within the redwood forest. Experts underlying black sands. from the skies, seeking their prey. fear that the area’s increase in average temperature and decrease in thick summer Animals and Plants Sinkyone Wilderness has steep slopes heavily wooded with Douglas-fir forest closer fog and rain will endanger redwoods and the Red, pinto, and flat abalone inhabit the to the coast. Tanbark oak woodland grows other plants and creatures that depend on rocky intertidal waters. Steelhead, Coho, and on the inland slopes. Coastal terraces are the redwood environment. Chinook salmon live in tributaries, coastal covered with coastal prairie and coastal scrub drainages, streams, and rivers. California vegetation. Some old-growth redwoods along RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES brown pelicans, rhinoceros auklets, and their the Lost Coast Trail survived the logging era. The former ranch house of Calvin Cooper close relatives —tufted puffins — can often Stewart and his family, built in the 1920s, be seen diving for fish. campgrounds, check in at the Be extremely careful around the majestic Needle Rock Visitor Center. Roosevelt elk — they can be especially Trail camps — These first- dangerous. During mating season, massive come, first-served campsites bulls battle each other for the right to for backpackers are located mate. When calves are born, elk cows between Bear Harbor and become fiercely protective. If you want to Usal Beach on the Lost take elk photos, stay on trails and use a Coast Trail. zoom lens; do not try to get close to the Horse Camping — elk. These fast-moving animals may be Equestrian camping found throughout the park. is permitted at Usal Beach Rarely, bears have been seen in the and Wheeler campgrounds. forested areas; more elusive mountain lions roam at dawn and dusk. Group Camping — Groups Besides the abundance of birdlife and of nine or more can be the Roosevelt elk, you may spot various accommodated at the Usal Needle Rock Visitor Center marine species. Watch migrating whales Beach horse campground. offshore from mid-January to mid-April. Call (707) 986-7711 in Marine mammals such as northern now houses the Needle Rock Visitor Center. advance for a Group Use Permit. elephant seals, sea lions, or harbor seals Needle Rock was once a small settlement Hiking — The 22-mile Lost Coast Trail and a shipping point for Stewart’s ranch may be seen hauling out along the parallels the coastline, traversing steep rocky shoreline. operations. The center also displays mountains and sloping prairies. Views from interpretive exhibits. Do not — under any circumstances — the trail depend on the thickness of the approach a marine mammal. Report a Camping — Wilderness camping is the only fog cover, especially during the summer distressed marine mammal by calling type available. Primitive campsites have months. The fog-muffled sounds the North Coast Marine Mammal tables, fire rings, a nearby pit toilet, but no and fragrances produce an aura Center at (707) 465-6265. developed water source. Bring your own of great mystery. drinking water. ACCESSIBLE FEATuRES usal Beach Campground — The only Wildlife Watching The park’s variety of marine, At this largely undeveloped drive-in campground in the park, the wilderness park, there are Usal Beach sites are in a meadow freshwaters and terrestrial habitats support richly currently no wheelchair- area near the beach. Narrow accessible activities; rural roads are often diverse wildlife. The offshore rocks, under the jurisdiction of however, accessibility is impassable, and RVs or continually improving. For trailers are not advisable. the Bureau of Land Management, are managed by California State details or updates, visit Needle Rock and Bear http://access.parks.ca.gov. Harbor — To use Parks and the California Department of Adult male Fish and Wildlife. elephant seal Red-tailed these environmental hawk NEARBY STATE PARKS • Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area PLEASE REMEMBER • Humboldt Redwoods State Park 1.5 miles north of Leggett on Hwy. 101 17119 Avenue of the Giants • All of the park’s natural and cultural (707) 925-6482 Weott 95571 (707) 946-2263 resources are protected by state law, and may not be disturbed in any way. • Richardson Grove State Park • Hunting and firearms are prohibited 1600 U.S. Hwy. 101, #8, Garberville 95542 anywhere in the park. (707) 247-3318 • Dogs must be kept on a leash no more than six feet long, under human control at all times. They must be confined to your tent or vehicle at night. Except for service animals, pets are not allowed on trails. • Do not collect dead or down wood. Purchase firewood at the visitor center for campfires, or bring your own wood. • Fires are permitted only in facilities provided. Use portable stoves only in designated areas. Fireworks are never permitted in the park. • Quiet hours are from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. Noise that may disturb others is not permitted. Generators may be operated only between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. • Pay in advance for campsite use. No more than 8 people per site. Checkout time is noon. • Vehicle speed limit is 15 mph. • Off-road vehicle usage is not allowed. • Please clean up after yourself and your pets. Store food in airtight containers. • Stay on trails to avoid ticks. Wear light- colored clothing in order to see them; tuck pant legs into your socks and use repellent. Check for ticks after hiking. • Dispose of trash properly. Practice the “Pack it in — pack it out” rule.

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