The North-Eastern Mazovia Content: Sylwia Kulczyk

miniguidebook Culture and historical monuments

The north-eastern Mazovia Content: Sylwia Kulczyk

Cover design and graphics: PANCZAKIEWICZ ART.DESIGN / Paweł Panczakiewicz www.panczakiewicz.pl

Publisher: Mazowieckie Voivodeship 03-719 Warszawa, ul. Jagiellońska 26 tel. (+22) 5979-100, fax: (+22) 5979-290 e-mail: [email protected]

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Publication fully funded by the Local-government of the Mazowieckie Voivodeship

ISBN 978-83-62082-73-5 Warsaw 2009

Contents

A few words about the landscape 8 30 Pułtusk In the kaleidoscope of history 9 34 Serock 35 Jadwisi Ostrołęka 15 36 Jabłonna Kadzidło 18 38 Rynia Dąbrówka 20 39 Beniaminów Czarnia 20 40 Porządzie Myszyniec 23 42 Pniewo Łyse 24 Mazovia 43 Długosiodło Lelis 26 44 Wyszków Przasnysz 27 46 Brok

The north-eastern Rostkowo 28 47 Zuzela Maków Mazowiecki 29 introduction The north-eastern Mazovia

he mini guide you are holding in your hands will acquaint you with the greatest cul- T tural attractions of the north-eastern part of Mazovia, and specifically of the following poviats: of Ostrołęka, Przasnysz, Maków Mazowiecki, Pułtusk, Serock, Wyszków and Ostrów Mazowiecka. The major part of the discussed area is situated on the territory of the White and Green Forests. These lands are often called “Kurpie”. In the former forest settlements the rich Kurpie folk customs, different in the north and the south of the region, have been preserved. In the Green Forest, the centres best-known for maintaining the tradition are Kadzidło, Łyse and Myszyniec, and in the White Forest - Pniewo. Church holidays, fairs and festivities celebrated in these towns are of unique charm. The traces of the vivid past are also enchanted in the small streets of the Mazovia towns. One of the most charming ones is Pułtusk, not without reason called the Venice of Mazovia. Valuable monuments of church architecture can be found among others in Ostrołęka, Przasnysz and Brok on the Bug River. he largest town in this part of Mazovia is Ostrołęka, but many of the above T mentioned towns are located in the immediate vicinity of Warsaw. Both towns, together with Wyszków and Pułtusk, are the best starting points for a trip. Each town or village can be reached by bus (PKS), but our own means of trans- port will make us independent of the bus schedule.

a few words in the kaleidoscope about the landscape The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia of history

A few words balm-smelling pine woods whisper. Won- rock with its unique fortified church, and In the derful spots of ancient forest can still be a charming palace in Jadwisin. about the found here today. Huge trees overshadow Roadside chapels, crosses and church kaleidoscope landscape whole stretches of bilberries and cowber- towers visible from afar, beautifully har- of history ries. Dune embankments divide the river monize with a mosaic of forests, mead- The main axes of the described area valleys, which are filled with peat bogs ows and fields. In many villages tradition- For years researchers have been trying to are the valleys of the Narew and Bug Riv- and marshy meadows. The Szkwa, Rozoga al wooden houses, a distinctive feature of establish what in fact the name “Mazowsze” ers. The riverside meadows and brush- and Omulew Rivers roll their waters to which are elaborate ornaments, have been means. It is usually divided into two parts: wood are very valuable environmental- the Narew River. In the bifurcation of the preserved. “maz” and “wsze”. The second element is as- ly, as they are the habitat for many ani- Narew and Bug Rivers the White Forest is sociated with the word “vše”, which denotes mal and plant species. In spring and au- located. Its name derives from the colour a settled country. The first part is more dif- tumn birds migrate along the rivers. At of sand, which in many places emerges ficult to explain; most probably it should be that time in the sky one can see V-forma- from under the forest bed. The local for- derived from the word “mazać” (smear) and tions of cranes, flocks of ducks and many ests are the favourite mushrooming place “mazidło” (ointment). This term may have other bird species. The north-eastern Ma- for the capital city inhabitants. been used to nickname the inhabitants of zovia was covered with impenetrable for- The swelled waters of the connected the region who were smeared with muddy ests for ages. The nearest from Warsaw Narew and Bug Rivers form the Zegrzyński soil, it may be also derived from tar burning, was the Nieporęt Forest, small patches of Lake. The extensive surface of the artifi- that are “maź” (soft greasy substance). which have survived until the present day. cial reservoir is a curiosity in the Mazovia Explaining the region’s name is as difficult The northern edges of Mazovia are cov- landscape, which is deprived of lakes. On as marking its exact boundaries. Due to mul- ered by the Green Forest. On sandy dunes, a high western shore of the lake there is Se- tiple changes over the centuries they have

in the kaleidoscope in the kaleidoscope of history The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia of history

become blurred in many places. The biggest ry settlers from the overpopulated parts of via lands were included into the Crown. In way was eagerly invested in craft; numerous in Poland Mazowieckie Voivodeship, which the region began to come to the north. The 1526, the last of the dukes of Mazovia, Ja- water mills, grinding workshops and paper has existed since 1999, occupies the larg- newcomers from the western part of Maz- nusz III, who was ruling in Warsaw, died heir- mills were established in towns at that time. est part of the historical Mazovia, stretching ovia were offered favourable conditions, as less. Due to the fact that the sad event took The lands between the Bug and Narew Riv- slightly further to the east and south. the Mazovia dukes were anxious about gath- place only a year and a half after the death ers remained in the hands of the bishops of The discussed part of the region was cov- ering the largest possible amount of wood. of his older brother Stanisław, and since Płock from the 11th century. The summer res- ered by impenetrable forests during the en- The demand for Polish pines and yews was both dukes were in their prime, the circum- idence of church dignitaries was in Pułtusk, tire Middle Ages period, which is why it used brought about by the coming of the epoch stances of their death remained the subject the bishops readily rested also in Brok and to be named the Forest Mazovia. The Mazo- of great geographical discoveries and the of gossip and inquiry for a long time. After Wyszków on the Bug River. Over the cen- via lands were a part of the Piast monarchy development of shipbuilding. In the 15th the incorporation into the Crown, the de- turies they became known as caring hosts, from the times of Mieszko I. In the reign of century, in the reign of Duke Janusz I, many scribed part of Mazovia was included in the who attached a lot of weight to preserving Władysław Herman (Ladislaus Herman) and manor seats were built in northern Mazovia, Mazowieckie Voivodeship with its capital in the good condition of the forests. Bolesław Krzywousty (Boleslaus the Wry- for example, in Maków Mazowiecki, Różan Warsaw. Until the mid-17th century Mazovia, The settlement of the forests in the mouthed) numerous towns, the inhabitants and Ostrołęka. The Duke visited his posses- being a stable centre of the great Republic northern Mazovia was still in progress. The of which grew wealthy through trade, were sions regularly, controlling the economy and of Poland, was in its golden age. Intensive main income source of the settlers com- built in the northern Mazovia. From the end presiding over the courts. The frequent visits development of towns began. In the area ing from somewhere on the Vistula River of the 12th century, when power was seized of the sovereign had a beneficial impact on discussed, Pułtusk, Przasnysz, Ostrołęka, Brok was hunting, fishery, forest bee-keeping by Konrad I (Conrad I), the Duchy of Mazo- the economic and cultural development of and Wyszków among others were growing and forest management. They also hewed via was politically independent. The forest the towns. in strength. The majority of towns were par- lime phloem, called “kurpie” - this is exactly borderland was inhabited by hunters, bee- As the ruling families from the Piast dy- tially agricultural, and their major source of how the new inhabitants of the Green For- keepers and tar makers. In the 14th centu- nasty were dying out, subsequent Mazo- income was trade. The capital earned in this est were named.

10 11 in the kaleidoscope in the kaleidoscope of history The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia of history

The end of the golden age came togeth- The rebuilding after the ravages of war Prussia. In 1806-1807 the Napoleonic cam- the majority in many towns. In 1830 the No- er with the Swedish Deluge in 1655. This de- made very slow progress. In 1730 Bishop paign swept through these lands. Success- vember Uprising broke out in Warsaw. The structive war, which lasted for several years, Stanisław Załuski began a repeat settlement ful battles with the Russians were fought majority of the population of Mazovia, irre- and the concurrent epidemics stopped of the White Forest. The Kurpie people were near Pułtusk (December 26th and 27th, 1806) spective of faith and social status, support- the development of the entire country for settled in the forests, but only those were and Ostrołęka (February 16th, 1807). In 1807, ed the armed bid for independence. Unfor- more than a hundred years. Towns became chosen who knew a lot about forest man- the described area was incorporated in the tunately, divergences among the generals ruined, and many villages were almost to- agement. Warsaw Duchy, and in 1815 into the King- commanding the uprising and the enor- tally depopulated. Several dozen years later By the end of the 18th century, Poland be- dom of Poland. The period of enlargement mous Russian advantage led to defeat. The northern Mazovia was simultaneously har- gan to gradually disappear from the map of and development lasted until 1830. More Polish defeat in the Battle of Ostrołęka (May assed: by the Great Northern War between Europe. The last attempt to defend the sov- and more inhabitants were arriving, and cit- 26th, 1831) is considered as the beginning Sweden and Russia, the fight over the Polish ereignty of the Republic of Poland was the ies underwent changes in the spatial order of the uprising’s end. After the uprising’s de- throne between August II (Augustus II) and Kościuszko Uprising. The beginning of the and in the development plan. Many public feat the Kingdom’s autonomy was consid- Stanisław Leszczyński, and the plague. The insurrection was the so-called Madaliński’s buildings come from this period, for exam- erably limited. It was finally liquidated after troops were plundering and destroying the march; Madaliński was one of the com- ple, the town hall in Ostrołęka. The image the defeat of the subsequent uprising in forest settlements. The Kurpie people brave- manders, he set off onM arch 12th, 1794 from of Mazovia from the period dating back to 1864. The fights that broke out in January ly supported the Polish king in the fight over Ostrołęka, leading a group of 1200 soldiers. a hundred and so years ago will be com- 1863 after the impressment order into the the throne. The best-known hero of this epi- Unfortunately, the participants’ heroism did plete if we realise that in Różan or Serock, Russian army encompassed the entire Maz- sode in history is Stach Konwa, a forest bee- not manage to guarantee military success. for example, at that time there was not even ovia. Together with Tsar sentences and exile keeper from Myszyniec; one of many who As a result of the third partition of Po- one brick house. The crucial role in the de- to Siberia, they caused the death of thou- paid with their life for their allegiance to the land, the discussed part of Mazovia, simi- velopment of craft and trade was played by sands of people. The post-uprising repres- King. larly to the majority of the region, fell to the Jewish population, which constituted sion considerably changed the character of

12 13 in the kaleidoscope of history The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia ostrołęka

the region. Church goods were confiscated July and October 1944 the Red Army ac- Ostrołęka army was defeated by the French troops. and numerous monasteries were liquidated. companied by the First Corp of the Polish This event is commemorated by the note Many towns were deprived of their munici- Army occupied the territories between the on the Triumphal Arch in Paris. The next war pal rights. Among the degraded ones there Bug, Vistula and Narew Rivers. The rest of In the battle fire phase was not as happy for the Poles. The de- were Serock, Wyszków and Myszyniec. Dur- Mazovia was liberated in January 1945. The town, which has a population of more feat, suffered by the Polish troops in the bat- ing World War I many battles took place in From 1945 onwards Mazovia, similarly than fifty thousand inhabitants, is an im- tle against the Russians on May 26th, 1831, is Mazovia. Ostrołęka, Przasnysz and Różan to the rest of Poland, lived according to portant industrial and cultural centre of the considered as the beginning of the Novem- were the three of the most seriously dam- the rhythm of the so-called six-year plans. north-eastern Mazovia. Although Ostrołęka is ber Uprising’s end. Over eleven thousand sol- aged towns. Right after independence was After the several-year period of reconstruc- dominated by modern housing, it has been diers were killed then. By the end of 1944 the regained, the bloody episode of the Polish- tion, the establishment of new and some- a town since 1373. However, history lavished town was almost completely bombed. Taking Bolshevik War began. Only after 1920 did a times huge industrial plants began. An ex- canon boom and battle fire on it. The victory into account such courses of events, it is a kind period of reconstruction and stabilisation ample of such an investment on a large was not always on the Polish side. During the of miracle that a few interesting monuments began, but was soon disrupted by the out- scale is the cellulose and paper-making Swedish Deluge Ostrołęka was occupied by have survived in Ostrołęka. break of World War II. Mazovia was occupied company in Ostrołęka. In 1975, as a result the Swedes, and during the war of succession The most valuable mementoes of the past by the Germans. The Jewish population of of the administrative reform, several doz- in 1733-1735 the Saxon and Russian armies are the church and monastery of St. Antho- the Mazovia towns suffered a terrible fate; ens of small voivodeships were created in marched through the town several times. On ny of Padova. The Baroque temple was built initially, the Jews were placed in ghettos, Poland. Ostrołęka was elevated to the rank March 12th, 1794, leading a group of 1200 sol- in 1666-1696, and at the beginning of the and then slaughtered in death camps. Dur- of the capital town of the voivodeship. The diers, Antoni Madaliński set off from Ostrołęka, 18th century characteristic galleries, which ing the whole period of occupation resist- town performed this function until January which was the beginning of the Kościuszko served as a calvary, were added. The inte- ance troops were active in Mazovia. The re- 1st, 1999, when the Mazowieckie Viovode- Uprising. Several years later, on February 16th, rior of the church is decorated by a Rococo gion was liberated in two phases. Between ship in its current shape was created. 1807, in the vicinity of the town the Russian polychrome, made in 1762-1764 by Walenty

14 15 ostrołęka The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia ostrołęka

Żebrowski. The paintings depict the history of mock-up, you can become acquainted with the patron’s life and of the miracles performed the course of the battle that took place in the by him. The majority of the furnishings come Ostrołęka area in 1831. In the museum there from the 18th century. The late-Baroque and is also a biographical exhibition dedicated to Rococo altars delight with their rich decora- the poet Wiktor Gomulicki, who was born in tions. The eighteenth-century organ is also a Ostrołęka, and collections of Polish graphic valuable monument. arts and paintings. The works of such artists The centre of the town is outlined by the as Wojciech Weiss, Tytus Czyżewski or Tymon marketplace, named after the hero of the Niesiołowski can be admired here. Moreover, 1831 battle, General Józef Bem. In the middle noteworthy permanent exhibitions are or- of the square there is a monument dedicated ganised. to him. A slender tower of the Classical town Ostrołęka is picturesquely situated at the hall dated 1824 overlooks the marketplace. bank of the Narew River. The eye of those Opposite, in the post office building, dated walking by the river is attracted by the mod- 1828, there is Muzeum Kultury Kurpiowskiej ern arched A. Madaliński bridge. The author (Museum of the Kurpie Culture). of the design of this interesting construction The exhibitions present rich archaeological, is Marek Łagoda. historical and ethnographic collections. Many Muzeum Kultury Kurpiowskiej variants of the Kurpie outfit delight the eye (Museum of the Kurpie Culture) pl.Generała Bema 8, tel. 029 7643500 and offer the possibility of analysing the dif- www.muzeum-ostroleka.art.pl ferences among them. Due to the illuminated www.ostroleka.pl

16 17 kadzidło The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia kadzidło

Kadzidło tal feretrums, which are worn during holiday guests who have arrived for this occasion en- will enjoy the performances of folk bands, processions, are kept in the church. The Cor- joy themselves at a wedding party. The stag- watch folk artists while working and taste re- pus Christi procession is one the most sol- ing of the Kurpie wedding does not omit any gional dishes. A large circle of contestants and The Kurpie wedding emn ones. of the traditional elements of this ceremony. spectators gather during the games and con- Kadzidło is one of the most vibrant centres On the cemetery hill, across from the After “rajby”, that is, engagement, a ceremonial tests. The contests of butter making, threshing of the Kurpie folk customs. The name of the church there is a large chapel with a charac- departure to the wedding site takes place. The cereals with flails and special tying of a scarf (“na village derives from the fragrant oils used dur- teristic quadrangular tower, built in the mid- colourful wedding procession goes in britzkas zakład”) enjoy particular popularity. ing church services and for incensing the sick. 20th century. and carts to the solemn church service It has A treasury of the Kurpie art is also Izba They were made from dried seeds of juniper In the outskirts of the village, by the en- happened several times that the wedding was Pamięci Czesławy Konopkówny (Czesława and powdered amber. The centre of the village trance from the Ostrołęka direction, a small not only staged; during the service the bride Konopkówna Exhibition Room). Visiting the is marked by the towers of the Neo-Baroque open-air ethnographic museum is located. and groom administered an authentic sacra- reconstructed interior of her family house, one Church under the invocation of the Holy Spir- The visitors can see a typical Kurpie homestead ment to themselves. During the wedding, “oc- cannot help but get the impression that the fa- it, the building was erected at the end of the here. The farmyard includes a peasant cottage, zepiny” takes place, the essential parts of which mous folk artist has left just for a moment. 19th century. The temple is distinguished by a granary, a woodshed, a barn, a riding track are bread rolling and collecting money into a noteworthy furnishings - particular attention and a well with a sweep bent over it. In the in- bonnet. The guests are welcomed by the re- Zagroda Kurpiowska (Kurpie Homestead) should be paid to a Renaissance high altar teriors, original furniture, traditional ornaments gional dishes and the sounds of a Kurpie folk ul. Trasa Mazurska 2, tel. 029 7618200 dating back to the 17th century, which was and farm tools are exhibited. In the territory of band, which guarantees a good party. brought here from the Church of St. Ann in the homestead many interesting events take The Kadzidło Sunday, organised in the terri- Izba Pamięci Czesławy Konopkówny Kodeń in Podlassia. Our eye is also attracted place. The organizers aim is to save the vivid tory of the Kurpie homestead on the first Sun- (Czesława Konopkówna Exhibition Room) by two stoups made from huge shells, which culture of the region. On the third Sunday of day of September, serves as a presentation of ul. Targowa 15, tel., 029 7618486 were a gift of the Krasińscy family. Ornamen- June the whole of Kadzidło and thousands of all signs of the regional folk customs. The guests www.kadzidlo.pl

18 19 dąbrówka, czarnia The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia czarnia

Dąbrówka Czarnia the interior design are items made from Zeno, interesting handicraft products and amber, which naturally can be found Kurpie folk outfits. in the territory of the Green Forest The It is worth coming to Czarnia on the first Folk Baroque On a hunt Kurpie people were occupied with the Sunday of June and...go hunting. And this The pride of the village, which is lost Lost in the woods of the Green Forest, exploitation of hardened resin deposits is the motto of a vivid event, which cul- in forests and meadows, is the wooden the village derived its name from an iron for ages, and an amber necklace is an im- tivates the old Kurpie hunting customs. Church under the invocation of St. Ann, blacksmith’s shop that functioned here in portant element of the traditional wom- A part of the festivities is a review of folk built in 1756. Initially, the temple was locat- the 18th century. The metal was smelted en’s outfit. In front of the church there is bands and handicraft products sale. ed in Kadzidło, but when a new church was from turf oar, extracted on the local bog- a monument, commemorating a Francis- While in Czarnia, it is worth going on a built there, it was moved to Dąbrówka in gy meadows. In Czarnia a few traditional can missionary, Father Zenon Żebrowski. trip to the nearby reserve which bears the 1883. Inside, visitors will be delighted with Kurpie houses have been preserved. They Father Zeno, as he was called by the same name. Its biggest curiosity are pines the Baroque altars of folk character. are distinguished by decorative cornices faithful, was born in nearby Surowe, but used as hives for wild forest bees, from the above the windows, tops covered with his vocation led him to Japan. The dis- hollows of which honey was gathered. boards and “śparogi” (wind boards which play in a museum, which is established Forest bee-keepers belonged to one of cross over the roof ridge). in the previous building of the vicarage, the most respected groups in Kurpie soci- The brick Neo-Gothic Church under tells about the missionary’s connections ety. They had their own organization and the invocation of the Immaculate Con- with both countries - the one where he numerous privileges granted by Polish ception of the Blessed Virgin Mary was was born, and the one to which he de- kings. Every forest bee-keeper had a cer- built at the beginning of the 20th cen- voted half a century of his work. You can tain number of trees used as hives for wild tury according to a design by Franciszek see here photographs and books docu- forest bees. Wild bee-hives were marked Przecławski. A characteristic element of menting the missionary activity of Father and described in books. Bee-keepers’ ac-

20 21 czarnia The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia myszyniec

tivities included not only gathering honey, only 33 wild bee-hives. In “Czarnia” reserve Myszyniec The towers of the Neo-Gothic Church but also cleaning wild-bee hives, remov- you can see four pines used as hives for under the invocation of the Holy Trinity ing unnecessary honeycombs and cutting wild forest bees. One of them is still a liv- overlook the small town. The huge five- new hollows. They were always situated ing tree. From the village a green trail leads The joy of honey harvest nave temple was built in 1909-1922 ac- from the south-eastern side, at the height to the reserve. On the way, at the junction The small town on the Rozoga River, cording to a design by Adolf Schimmelp- of a few to a dozen or so metres. Getting to with the Chorzele - Myszyniec road, there which has a population of three thou- fennig. Inside, our attention is attracted a hollow full of bees situated high above is a noteworthy chapel of regional char- sand people, is considered to be the heart by a modern polychrome based on the the ground was not an easy task. To do acter. It was dedicated to St. Hubert, the of the Kurpie region. In the second half of Kurpie motifs. During holidays, women it, bee-keepers used ropes and a trunk of patron of hunters. Up a wooden trunk, the 17th century, the best-known hero of wearing traditional costumes can be met a young spruce with stumps of branch- topped with the characteristic “śparogi”, the region, Stach Konwa, lived here and in the Myszyniec church. es which served as rungs of a ladder. In a bear carved in wood climbs. These ani- had a seat on the bee-keeping court. Dur- A brick bell tower which is located next order to calm bees, they incensed them mals could still be met in the Green Forest ing the Great Northern War he fought to the church is much older than the tem- with a piece of smouldering rotten wood, in the 18th century. with the Russian, Swedish and Saxon ar- ple itself. Erected at the turn of the 17th called “kurzysko”. Honeycombs taken out mies, which were plundering the Kurpie and 18th centuries, it is considered to be from the hives were collected in a spe- settlements. Taken prisoner, he refused to the latest example of the Gothic style in cial wooden bucket, called “kadłubek”. break the oath of allegiance to Stanisaław Mazovia. In the building’s wall there are The honey gathered with such an effort Leszczyński and was hanged on a pine. two iron hoops, which were used to de- reached the royal table. After the collapse The main street of Myszyniec was named tain criminals. of the Republic of Poland forest bee-keep- after Stach Konwa. Some of the houses On the last Sunday of August, folk cus- ing fell into significant decline.I n the mid- built on this street are interesting exam- toms and honey enthusiasts from all over 19th century in the Green Forest there were ples of the traditional architecture. Poland arrive in Myszyniec. In the suburb

22 23 łyse The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia łyse

called “Zawodzie” a fair called “the Kurpie Łyse or green bodices on white shirts. The out- the fair one may taste the delicacies of the Honey Harvest” takes place. The event is fits are complemented by amber necklac- Kurpie cuisine. “Rejbak” (a kind of a pota- a great occasion to become acquainted es. The heads of young girls are decorat- to pie filled with meat) and juniper beer with the treasure of the Kurpie folk cus- Colours of the Palm Sunday ed with high “czółka” (decorative bands) (a drink made from slightly fermented ju- toms, and to enrich a home pantry with The solemn celebration of Palm Sun- made of black velvet, decorated with se- niper berries) are the delectable culinary the best-quality kinds of honey. When the day in Łyse is famous for its unique atmos- quins and bunches of ribbons. The colours card of the region. winter cold sets in, jars full of gold will re- phere. The Kurpie palms are made from of the palms perfectly complement the mind us of aromatic summer days. crepe paper flowers and green branches; richness of the faithful’s outfits. A feast of they are often decorated with colourful colour beautifully contrasts with the white ribbons. Some of them are as big as ten walls of the temple designed by Anna and metres high. Every year the contest for the Wojciech Kawęczyńscy. The wooden nine- prettiest and highest palm is held. The cel- teenth-century Church of St. Ann, located ebration of Palm Sunday begins with a sol- a few hundred meters further, is also worth emn procession and a Mass, said in the popping into. Around the old temple ma- Church under the invocation of Christ Uni- jestic pines rustle, and the interior is graced versal King, still shining with its newness. by charming folk paintings. Many women wear traditional outfits for Religious celebrations are accompanied this occasion. The Kurpie women from the by performances of regional bands and Green Forest wear skirts with narrow and a huge fair, the main attraction of which colourful stripes, and embroidered aprons are, of course, the palms. Each of them is with a lace rim on them. They put sapphire unique so the choice is really hard. During

24 25 lelis The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia przasnysz

Lelis on the farm. The museum in Lelis touch- Przasnysz a population of several thousand inhab- es also upon the oldest history of the re- itants, interesting traces of the ancient gion. Currently, archaeological finds dat- splendour have been preserved. In spite From prehistory ing back to the Middle Stone Age can be Duke’s gratitude of the flow of time, the medieval urban to modern times seen, and plans for the future include the According to the legend, Duke Kon- plan with a square marketplace is still The main task of the ethnographic cen- reconstruction of a village dating back to rad I Mazowiecki (Conrad I of Mazovia) recognizable. On the ground floor of the tre in Lelis is documenting the history and six thousand years ago. got lost one day while hunting. The duke, Classical town hall from the 18th centu- tradition of the region. The reconstruct- A beautiful example of the respect for tired with wandering around the forest, ry, which is located in the middle of the ed interior of the Kurpie peasant cottage the architectural tradition of the region is was taken in by a miller, whose name was square, there is Muzeum Historyczne (His- shows what the everyday life of the re- also the church in Lelis. The wooden tem- Przaśnik. As a sign of his gratitude the tory Museum). Making use of its own rich gion’s inhabitants looked like centuries ple under the invocation of Our Lady of Duke granted him the nearby lands, and regional collections, as well as of the ma- ago. Special exhibitions are devoted to Perpetual Help was built only a few years gave an order to name the future settle- terials of other institutions, the museum various forms of the Kurpie peoples’ activ- ago. Its silhouette perfectly refers to the ar- ment Przasnysz. The town, which has ex- organises interesting temporary exhibi- ity – by watching them, you can become chitectural tradition of the region. isted since the 13th century, was granted tions. acquainted with, among others, the arca- municipal rights in 1427. Until the period The brick parish church was built in na of fishing and the amber craft or weav- of the Swedish wars, the town, favourably 1474-1485, and then rebuilt several times. ing. Particular interest of visitors is aroused situated on the route leading to Warmia The bell tower, which is located next to by the exposition of old farm machines. Ośrodek Etnograficzny and Prussia, was a significant trade centre. the church, dates back to the same peri- It is hard to believe that devices that to- (Ethnographic Centre), The enemy’s invasion, fires and a seven- od. In this temple Stanisław Kostka (Stanis- day surprise everybody with there ap- tel. 029 7611077 time epidemic curbed the development laus Kostka), born in nearby Rostkowo, was pearance, were years ago invaluable help www.lelis.pl of Przasnysz. In the town, which now has baptised. This event is commemorated by

26 27 rostkowo The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia maków mazowiecki

a plaque in the side chapel. The ashes of Rostkowo The figure of the Saint is shrouded in Maków the Saint’s parents and brother rest in the several legends. In the church area there is temple. a stone, which is said to wear the trace of Mazowiecki The most valuable historic monument St. Stanisław and frogs his foot. Visiting Rostkowo on a May after- of Przasnysz is a post-Bernardine church. St. Stanisław Kostka (Stanislaus Kost- noon, it is worth stopping for a longer time The temple funded by Paweł Kostka, St. ka), worshipped as the patron of young by a picturesque pond at the back of the On a trade route Stanisław’s brother, was erected in 1588- people, was born in Rostkowo in 1550. temple. It is said that for ages nobody has The Gothic parish church is evidence of 1618. It is one of the latest Gothic struc- His parents were Jan Kostka, the castel- managed to hear frogs croaking in its wa- the long history of the poviat town, which tures in Poland. In the side chapel there lan of Zakroczym, and Małgorzata Krys- ters. St. Stanisław (Stanislaus) forbade the originated in the Medieval Ages as a trade is a painting depicting Our Lady with the ka. The Neo-Gothic church was erected at animals to croak, because they interfered settlement on a route leading northwards. Baby Jesus, famous for miracles, which was the end of the 19th century according to with his prayers. The brick temple under the invocation of brought from Rome by the founder of the the design of Adolf Schimmelpfennig. In Similarly, in the present day unique si- Corpus Christi was built in 1490. The three- church. the Neo-Gothic high altar there is a sculp- lence and calmness that prevail in Ros- nave basilica is distinguished by a pinnacle ture, which presents St. Stanisław Kostka tkowo. The town becomes bustling and top. Walking around the church, it is worth (Stanislaus Kostka), taking the Baby Jesus crowded only during church celebrations. paying attention to the erratic blocks in its from the hands of Our Lady, and relics of The church fair on the Sunday after August walls and a millstone. Such materials were the saint, brought from Rome in 1926. In a 15th gathers a few thousand of the faith- often used in the construction of temples Muzeum Historyczne building next to the church there is a small ful. On the Saturday after September 18th in the region. Eight altars make up the in- (History Museum) gallery; its exposition acquaints visitors to (the patron’s day) a walking pilgrimage terior. The oldest one, dating back to the ul. Rynek 1, tel. 029 7522866 Rostkowo with the person of St. Stanisław of young people from the entire diocese mid-17th century, is placed in the Baroque www.przasnysz.pl Kostka (Stanislaus Kostka). comes to Rostkowo. chapel of St. Ann. The most valuable mon-

28 29 pułtusk The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia pułtusk

ument of the church is a Mannerist grave- Pułtusk longest in Europe. At its frontage a few On the first Saturday after Corpus Chris- stone of the staroste of Różan and Maków classical stone houses dating back to the ti, in the market square in Pułtusk, Wielki Mazowiecki, Jędrzej Noskowski. first half of the 19th century have been pre- Jarmark Średniowieczny (Great Medieval An important memento of Maków’s The Venice of Mazovia served. It is said that at No. 29 at the turn of Fair) is organized. Participants have the past is the lapidary monument made from Pułtusk is one of the oldest towns in 1806 and 1807 Napoleon was quartered, possibility to become acquainted with the gravestones of the damaged Jewish Mazovia. It was granted municipal rights resting after a successful battle with the the arcana of the traditional craft, to try cemetery. The Jews lived in Maków from in 1339, but the settlement on the bank of Russians. The town hall, which is situated in their hand at court dances and to put the second half of the 16th century, and in the Narew River existed much earlier. Sim- the middle of the market square, consists on historical outfits. Every year, Midsum- the first half of the 19th century they con- ilarly to many other towns in the region, of a Gothic eight-storey tower and a Neo- mer Night is also ceremonially celebrated. stituted 90% of the town’s population. The Pułtusk had its golden age in the 15th and Classical building, added to the tower after The most important moment of the holi- last Judaism followers were taken by the 16th centuries. Trade and craft earned the World War II. In the town hall tower there day is the blessing of the Narew River wa- Nazis to the camp in Treblinka in 1942. inhabitants money, and bishops of Płock, is Muzeum Regionalne (Museum of the ters, one can also take part in a contest for Maków Mazowiecki is the last station of to whom the town belonged, made it an Region). One can see here archaeological the most beautiful garland. At midnight a narrow-gauge railway, which gets here important centre of cultural and intellec- finds from the territory of the town and its the sky over Pułtusk is illuminated by fire- from Mława, a town situated several doz- tual life. Valuable monuments, as well as surroundings, as well as rich ethnographic works. In September the town’s inhabit- en kilometres away from Maków. For the the enthusiasm for artistic or entertain- collections. Particular attention should be ants celebrate the day of their patron, St. time being the colourful carriages go on ment events, characteristic for those times, paid to the chips of the Pułtusk meteor- Matthew. Games and concerts in the fresh their route occasionally, but future plans have survived until the present day. ite, which, in the form of stone rain, hit the air are simultaneously meant to welcome include starting a regular tourist line. The heart of Pułtusk is the rectangular fields near the town in 1868. It is estimat- autumn. market square. The square, which is 400 m ed that 9 tons of high-iron-content mate- On the northern edge of the market long, aspires to be acknowledged as the rial fell there. square there is the Basilica under the In-

30 31 pułtusk The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia pułtusk

vocation of the Blessed Virgin Mary and head. Tradition views it as the head of a pa- on an artificial embankment surrounded also sports areas and a harbour, where ro- St. Matthew. The Gothic three-nave tem- gan god. There is also a legend, according by water, which was the remains of the mantics can find gondolas ready to go on ple was built in 1443 on the order of the to which it is the head of a thief, who was former town. Pułtusk used to be the sum- a cruise. The organisation of ceremonial bishop Paweł Giżycki. A hundred years trying to run away from the church with mer residence of the bishop’s court. The Easter and Christmas holidays, and won- later on the order of the bishop Andrzej his spoils and was trapped by the walls. first Gothic castle was built in the 14th cen- derful carnival balls by Dom Polonii (Polo- Noskowski, the architect Giovanni Battis- Next to the basilica there is a bell tower tury, but over the centuries it was dam- nia House) has become a tradition. ta the Venetian added a Renaissance side dating back to 1507, thoroughly rebuilt in aged and rebuilt many times. The present chapel. The same artist took up the recon- the classical style in the 18th century. Two day building, with the shape of a polygo- struction of the main nave vault, which he Baroque gates lead to the basilica terri- nal horseshoe, was rebuilt in the 20th cen- decorated with a geometric net of con- tory. tury, with reference to its classical appear- nected circles. This type of vault, met also On the northern edge of the market ance from the first half of the 19th century. in other churches in Mazovia (e.g. in Brok square, which is opposite the basilica, there The castle can be reached by using the ar- Muzeum Regionalne on the Bug River), is called the Pułtusk is a small round castle chapel of St. Mary cade bridge built at the beginning of the (Museum of the Region), vault. The majority of the temple’s furnish- Magdalene, commonly called Magdalenka. 17th century on the order of Bishop Hen- Rynek 1, ings follow the Baroque style. Fifteen side The Renaissance church dating back to the ryk Firlej. The same church dignitary was tel. 023 6925132 altars, choir stalls, the ambo and eight ep- first half of the 16th century is a rare Polish the founder of extensive gardens, stretch- itaphs of the Załuscy family pride them- example of a detached temple following ing towards the river. In the castle there is Dom Polonii selves on their rich decorations. a central layout. a hotel-conference centre - Dom Polonii (Polonia House), Having left the temple, it is worth ex- To the south of the market square one (Polonia House). Luxurious hotel rooms, tel. 023 6929000, amining the front wall. There is a stone in can see the walls and the tower of the cas- restaurants and banquet rooms foster fax 023 6920524 it, the shape of which resembles a human tle of the bishops of Płock. It was erected relaxation and work. The castle includes www.pultusk.pl

32 33 serock The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia jadwisin

Serock building is distinguished by its four-sided Jadwisin by the Office of the Council of Ministers. tower covered with a roof joining it with Once a closed and closely guarded struc- the nave. Around the church fierce bat- ture, today it willingly meets at its doors Where the Bug and Narew Ri- tles were fought many times. A memento Rest in a palace all guests. vers meet of the turmoil of war is an artillery shell, The Neo-Renaissance castle of the Centrum Obsługi Kancelarii Prezesa Serock is one of the oldest towns in Ma- dating back to the times of World War I, Radziwiłłowie family was built in 1890- Rady Ministrów (Centre of the Chancel- zovia - the first mentions of its existence which is stuck in the northern wall. Inside 1892 according to the design of the lery of the Prime Minister Service) date back to the 11th century. The town, the church, the Baroque furnishings from French architect Francois Arveuf. The picturesquely situated at the junction of the 18th century have been preserved. building is distinguished by its irregular the Narew and Bug Rivers, attracts tour- layout, which consists of several asym- ists with its neat streets, beautiful views metrically arranged masses. The frontage stretching from the embankment and is decorated by a two-storey square tow- a promenade for pedestrians by the river. er. The palace is supported by underpin- The majority of the housing is modern - ning made of fieldstones, and its eleva- what remains of the former urban plan is tion is covered with red ceramic tiles. The a square market place. The most valuable mansard roof with wooden spire lights monument of Serock is the Parish Church is covered with metal sheeting formed under the Invocation of the Annunciation into fish scales. The building is located in Ośrodek Wypoczynkowy Jadwisin of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The late-Gothic a hundred-hectare park, parts of which (Jadwisin Leisure Centre) temple is a rare example of a church struc- are designed in the Baroque and Eng- tel. 022 7826541, fax 022 7826731, ture of defensive character. The one-nave www.serock.pl lish styles. The residence is administered www.owjadwisin.pl

34 35 jabłonna The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia jabłonna

Jabłonna with a sphere, and two two-storey side pa- Bogumił Zug. Out of numerous pavilions ten rested here and enjoyed various types vilions. In 1837 on the order of Anna Dun- which were built in the park, the cave, or- of entertainment. in-Wąsowiczowa from the Tyszkiewiczowie angery and the Chinese pavilion have sur- Visiting the Poniatowscy family, the residence was reconstructed. The vived till today. The triumphal arch built in family project of changes was designed by Henry the first half of the 19th century commem- Dom Zjazdów i Konferencji PAN Only 20 km from the centre of the Marconi. While rebuilding the palace after orates Duke Józef Poniatowski. The hero, (Meeting House of the Polish Academy of Science) capital city, in an extensive park there is the ravages of World War II, some elements who died in the Battle of Leipzig (1813), was ul. Modlińska 105, tel. 022 7825461, a beautiful palace. When, having crossed of the original appearance of the building the owner of Jabłonna; in 1798-1806 he of- 022 7825489, www.palacjablonna.pl the brick gate, the hubbub of the street were restored. Currently, in the palace there dies away in the distance, one cannot help is Dom Zjazdów Polskiej Akademii Nauk but get the impression that time has trav- (Meeting House of the Polish Academy of elled backwards two hundred years. Sciences), which has conference rooms, In 1773 Jabłonna was acquired by Duke guest rooms and a restaurant for 120 peo- and Bishop Michał Poniatowski. The later ple. The interiors are designed in the classi- primate entrusted Domenico Merlini, the cal style. In the ballroom, every month con- creator of Łazienki Park in Warsaw, who certs from the series “Palace Meetings with enjoyed great recognition, with building Music” are organised. The Modern Art Gal- his residence. According to the directions lery in Oranżeria is held under the patron- of the architect, a complex of three build- age of the Warsaw Academy of Fine Arts. ings was erected - a centrally situated small Around the palace there is an Eng- palace with a characteristic tower topped lish landscape park, designed by Szymon

36 37 rynia The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia beniaminów

Rynia ed with Viking music and poetry, and even Beniaminów try their famous honey. The fearless warriors enjoyed themselves tirelessly. In the Vikings’ town A concrete fortress During the last weekend of August on The huge concrete fort, clearly visible from the Nieporęt - the shores of the Zegrzyński Lake time Radzymin route, was built around 1904 according to the de- goes back to a thousand years earlier. The sign of Konstanty Wieliczko. The Russians planned to build aim of the historical festival “Vikings and five fortifications of this type in the line Warsaw - Prague - the Vistula Veneti” (“Wikingowie i Wenedzi”) Zegrze. The most glorious part in the war history of the fort is to bring back to life the figures of brave was the fights in defence of Warsaw in August 1920. Today it warriors, sailors and craftsmen. Groups of is no longer used and it attracts enthusiasts of architectural contemporary Vikings and Slavs from all curiosities. The mysterious corridors, niches in the walls and over Poland, Europe and even from Ameri- echoes in the gloomy tunnels may turn a walk around the ca and Australia come to Rynia, or rather to fort into a real spine-chilling adventure. Nevertheless, we the settlement called Jomsborg. All partici- should remember to obey the basic standards of safety. pants wear outfits which refer to the outfits from the 9th-11th centuries. Presentations of fights with spears and Danish axes, demon- strations of the medieval crafts and a noisy fair last three days, from Friday to Sunday. Visiting Jomsborg, one may get acquaint- www.jomsborg.pl

38 39 porządzie The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia porządzie

Porządzie a durable material and there are fewer and in Porządzie a temple the style of which refers to buildings fewer cottages every year. Most of the old in the Podhale region. In 1954 the church was extended. houses have been preserved in the south- Surrounded by a ring of trees, it is distinguished by its steep A church of the Podhale ern part of Porządzie, called Stara Wieś (the roof and massive four-sided tower. The interior is graced by region and Kurpie cottages Old Village). Slightly further to the north the wooden altar with a painting depicting Our Lady with Among the buildings of the large vil- there is a school, next to which a mini the Baby Jesus. lage situated on the edge of the White open-air ethnographic museum present- Next to the church there are a wooden chapel dating Forest one can still find many interesting ing farm machines has been organised. back to 1926 and a monument commemorating the vic- examples of folk architecture. The wood- One needs a lot of imagination to guess tims of World War II. In 1939-1945, a few kilometres to the en cottages with gable roofs are topped what some of them are for. northern-east of Porządzie ran the boundary of General- with crossed wind boards. Similarly to the At the junction of the roads leading to Government. Among many partisans who died in the White window finials and porches, they are rich- Pułtusk and Wyszków, on the so-called Forest there was also Tadeusz Zawadzki “Zośka”. One of the ly decorated with woodcarving. What’s in- Kolonia (Colony), there is an interesting best-known Polish scouts, the commander of the daring teresting, this way of decorating houses church. The temple under the invocation operation at the Warsaw Arsenal, was killed during the at- is the reflection of the worldwide fashion of St. Theresa of the Baby Jesus was built tack on a frontier post in Sieczychy, in the night of August prevailing at the turn of the 19th and 20th in 1928-1930. For this purpose the material 20th and 21st, 1943. centuries in holiday and heart-resort build- from a very damaged eighteenth-century ing. After World War I, when many build- church in Dzierżenin on the Narew River ings in the region were damaged, travel- was used. Stefan Szyller, an excellent archi- ling craftsmen popularised the new style tect famous among others for the recon- of building. Unfortunately, wood is not struction of the cathedral in Płock, created

40 41 pniewo The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia długosiodło

Pniewo on their traditional outfits. Women from the Długosiodło tracted by the interesting door fittings. In region of the White Forest wear white em- the church area there is also the Oak of St. broidered shirts, red skirts or green skirts with John - the oldest oak with an age certifi- Embroideries, paper cuttings red stripes, and aprons. An important part of Antiques among flowers cate in Mazovia. The plate informs us that and painted eggs the festive outfit is a richly decorated pink or The large village surrounded by the White the tree was planted in 1481. Pniewo, which is situated between Pułtusk purplish red short close-fitting jacket, and Forest attracts above all the enthusiasts of Some of the traditional wooden houses and Wyszków, is one the most lively centres a bonnet tied under the chin. hiking and mushroom picking. In Septem- have survived in Długosiodło. A few years of the Kurpie culture. The towers of the Neo- The Association “Puszcza Biała – Moja ber the Polish Actors Mushroom Picking ago joyful flower patterns were painted on Gothic Church under the Invocation of St. Pe- Mała Ojczyzna” (“The White Forest – My Small Championships take place here. Apart from a number of houses on the main streets. ter and Paul overlook the village. The temple Homeland”) takes care of preserving the tra- nice moments spent in the woods, one can Every third Sunday in the month a fair with red brick walls, was built in 1912-1928 ac- dition of handicraft and the Kurpie culture. also have a lot of good fun. of antiques and collector’s items is organ- cording to the project of Józef Pius Dziekoński. Folk artists from Pniewo and the local folk The towers of the impressive church, ised in Długosiodło. Both charming trinkets The interior delights us with a colourful poly- band are regular participants of the fairs or- built in 1908-1912 by Józef Pius Dziekoński, and solid pre-war furniture are put up for chrome, repeating the patterns of the Pułtusk ganised in Pułtusk. Elaborate cuttings, rich overlook Długosiodło. Inside the Neo-Goth- sale then. embroidery. This embroidery is considered to patterns of painted eggs, delicate ornaments ic temple there is the eighteenth-century be one of the most beautiful in Poland. Fol- of tissue paper, and certainly the famous em- high altar, and in the altar the late-Goth- lowing red and black colours, it is composed broideries arouse admiration. A preview of ic sculptures presenting Our Lady with of decorative circles and plant motifs. During the skills of the inhabitants of Pniewo can the Baby Jesus and St. Anna Samotrzecia the most important church holidays, espe- be seen in the building of the former school. (Ann Self-thirdly). Next to the church there cially Corpus Christi and during the Peter and A small exposition presents the traditional is a wooden mortuary dating back to the Paul church fair, the inhabitants of Pniewo put Kurpie house. turn of the 19th century. Our attention is at- www.dlugosiodlo.pl

42 43 wyszków The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia wyszków

Wyszków the town council building. The small, but chapel there is a beautiful seventeenth-century painting de- well-formed mass is decorated by the fam- picting Our Lady in a silver icon-cover. Next to the temple ily crest of Wazowie (the Vasas). The monu- there is the brick classical vicarage dating back to the 19th In the vicarage ment in Wyszków is one of the oldest secu- century. It gained historical significance in August 1920, From the Middle Ages, Wyszków, situ- lar monuments in Poland. when the members of Tymczasowy Komitet Rewolucyjny ated on the Bug River, was an important In the place of the former bishop resi- Polski (Temporary Revolutionary Committee of Poland) wait- trade centre on the route leading to Lithua- dence an extensive park was created at the ed there for the end of the Battle of Radzymin. After the ex- nia. The town’s heyday should be associat- end of the 19th century. In the Neo-Gothic pected Red Army entered Warsaw, Julian Marchlewski, Feliks ed with the 16th and 17th centuries. Wysz- caretaker’s lodge there is a tiny municipal Dzierżyński and Feliks Kon were to be the creators of a new ków was the favourite residence of Karol museum. On account of the tightness of the communist government. The, favourable for Poles, course of Ferdynand Waza (Charles Ferdinand Vasa), place only temporary exhibitions are organ- events that took place in the Battle of Radzymin, forced the the bishop of Płock and Wrocław, the broth- ised here. Next to the guardhouse there is communists to evacuate. A day later the vicarage was visited er of the king Jan Kazimierz (John Casimir). a monument to Cyprian Kamil Norwid. The by General Józef Haller, and soon by a group of Polish intel- After the bishop’s death in 1655, his roy- outstanding poet was born in the nearby vil- lectuals. One of them, Stefan Żeromski, who at that time ful- al brother funded two marble obelisks in lage Głuchy. filled the function of war correspondent, recorded in writing Wyszków. The monuments were designed On a high bank of the Bug River, in the the account of the Wyszków priest, who had to play host to by Giovanni Battista Ghisleni, the creator of vicinity of the road bridge, one can see the the uninvited guests. To commemorate the events of 1920 the chapel of the Wazowie family (the Va- white walls of the Church under the Invo- every year poetical performances are organised in Wyszków. sas) in the Wawel castle in Cracow. Until the cation of St. Giles. The design of the classi- Lighter muse prevails during the Days of Wyszków, which are present day only one obelisk has been pre- cal temple dating back to 1793 is ascribed riotously celebrated on the first weekend of September. served; it is located at ul. 3 Maja, opposite to Szymon Bogumił Zug. In the southern www.wyszkow.pl

44 45 brok The north-eastern Mazovia The north-eastern Mazovia zuzela

Brok in the 16th century the Renaissance style On the eastern edge of the town, in Zuzela was already popular, the Gothic style a clump of trees, the remains of the sum- still prevailed in Mazovia. The church in mer residence of the bishops of Płock are Traces of the past Brok, distinguished by its Gothic mass hidden. The castle, built in 1617-1624, was A small village – a big man “There was the Brok town, but it and Renaissance top, is evidence of the burnt after the partitions, and since then In the small village at the edge of the drowned” - this saying was created after emergence of new trends in art. it has been deteriorating. Recently, plans Bug River valley Stefan Wyszyński – the the Swedish Deluge, when the well-de- Inside, our attention is attracted by for using the ruins as a base for the con- cardinal and the Primate of the Millen- veloped town suddenly became impov- the Renaissance vault with the character- struction of a big cultural and artistic cen- nium - was born in 1901. Currently, in erished. Walking today along the streets of istic motif of circles joined by a wooden tre have appeared. the reconstructed building of the former the calm resort, it is hard to imagine that slat. This characteristic style of the Mazo- school, at the desks of which the future in the 16th century Brok was a trade cen- via Renaissance is called the Pułtusk vault primate used to sit in 1908-1910, there is tre vibrant with life. This was where the (the collegiate church in Pułtusk was Muzeum Lat Dziecięcych Prymasa Stefa- routes leading from the Baltic Sea to Ruś erected by the same builder). The church na Wyszyńskiego (Museum of Childhood and from Lithuania to Cracow crossed. furnishings date back to different periods. of the Primate of the Millennium Stefan The evidence of the former splendour The late-Gothic side altar in the shape of Wyszyński). The exposition reconstructs of the town is the Parish Church under the Tree of Jesse is considered to be the the appearance of the classroom from the Invocation of St. Andrew the Apos- most interesting element of the church. the beginning of the 20th century and of tle, which was built in 1541-1560 by the The sixteenth-century painting depict- the living room where numerous memen- workshop of Giovanni Battista the Vene- ing Our lady with the Baby Jesus, placed toes connected with the Wyszyńscy family tian due to the donation of the bishop in the church, is associated with the Ital- are gathered. The museum is adjacent to of Płock Andrzej Noskowski. Although ian School. www.brok.pl a Neo-Gothic church built in 1907-1913. In

46 47 zuzela

front of the temple there is a monument to the primate, and inside the church there is the baptismal font, at which he was baptised. It was brought here from the former church.