The North-Eastern Mazovia Content: Sylwia Kulczyk
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MINIGUIDEBOOK Culture and historical monuments The north-eastern Mazovia Content: Sylwia Kulczyk Cover design and graphics: PANCZAKIEWICZ ART.DESIGN / Paweł Panczakiewicz www.panczakiewicz.pl Publisher: Mazowieckie Voivodeship 03-719 Warszawa, ul. Jagiellońska 26 tel. (+22) 5979-100, fax: (+22) 5979-290 e-mail: [email protected] Print: Publication fully funded by the Local-government of the Mazowieckie Voivodeship All rights reserved. No part of this publication can be reproduced without the Publisher’s written consent. ISBN 978-83-62082-73-5 Warsaw 2009 Contents A few words about the landscape 8 30 Pułtusk In the kaleidoscope of history 9 34 Serock 35 Jadwisi Ostrołęka 15 36 Jabłonna Kadzidło 18 38 Rynia Dąbrówka 20 39 Beniaminów Czarnia 20 40 Porządzie Myszyniec 23 42 Pniewo Łyse 24 Mazovia 43 Długosiodło Lelis 26 44 Wyszków Przasnysz 27 46 Brok The north-eastern Rostkowo 28 47 Zuzela Maków Mazowiecki 29 INTRODUctION THE NORTH-EASTERN MAZOVIA he mini guide you are holding in your hands will acquaint you with the greatest cul- T tural attractions of the north-eastern part of Mazovia, and specifically of the following poviats: of Ostrołęka, Przasnysz, Maków Mazowiecki, Pułtusk, Serock, Wyszków and Ostrów Mazowiecka. The major part of the discussed area is situated on the territory of the White and Green Forests. These lands are often called “Kurpie”. In the former forest settlements the rich Kurpie folk customs, different in the north and the south of the region, have been preserved. In the Green Forest, the centres best-known for maintaining the tra- dition are Kadzidło, Łyse and Myszyniec, and in the White Forest - Pniewo. Church holidays, fairs and festivities celebrated in these towns are of unique charm. The traces of the vivid past are also enchanted in the small streets of the Mazovia towns. One of the most charming ones is Pułtusk, not without reason called the Venice of Mazovia. Valuable monuments of church architecture can be found among others in Ostrołęka, Przasnysz and Brok on the Bug River. he largest town in this part of Mazovia is Ostrołęka, but many of the above T mentioned towns are located in the immediate vicinity of Warsaw. Both towns, together with Wyszków and Pułtusk, are the best starting points for a trip. Each town or village can be reached by bus (PKS), but our own means of trans- port will make us independent of the bus schedule. A few words IN the kaleIdoscope aboUT the laNdscape THE NORTH-EASTERN MAZOVia THE NORTH-EASTERN MAZOVia of HIstorY A FEW WORDS balm-smelling pine woods whisper. Won- rock with its unique fortified church, and IN THE derful spots of ancient forest can still be a charming palace in Jadwisin. ABOUT THE found here today. Huge trees overshadow Roadside chapels, crosses and church KALEIDOSCOPE LANDSCAPE whole stretches of bilberries and cowber- towers visible from afar, beautifully har- OF HISTORY ries. Dune embankments divide the river monize with a mosaic of forests, mead- The main axes of the described area valleys, which are filled with peat bogs ows and fields. In many villages tradition- For years researchers have been trying to are the valleys of the Narew and Bug Riv- and marshy meadows. The Szkwa, Rozoga al wooden houses, a distinctive feature of establish what in fact the name “Mazowsze” ers. The riverside meadows and brush- and Omulew Rivers roll their waters to which are elaborate ornaments, have been means. It is usually divided into two parts: wood are very valuable environmental- the Narew River. In the bifurcation of the preserved. “maz” and “wsze”. The second element is as- ly, as they are the habitat for many ani- Narew and Bug Rivers the White Forest is sociated with the word “vše”, which denotes mal and plant species. In spring and au- located. Its name derives from the colour a settled country. The first part is more dif- tumn birds migrate along the rivers. At of sand, which in many places emerges ficult to explain; most probably it should be that time in the sky one can see V-forma- from under the forest bed. The local for- derived from the word “mazać” (smear) and tions of cranes, flocks of ducks and many ests are the favourite mushrooming place “mazidło” (ointment). This term may have other bird species. The north-eastern Ma- for the capital city inhabitants. been used to nickname the inhabitants of zovia was covered with impenetrable for- The swelled waters of the connected the region who were smeared with muddy ests for ages. The nearest from Warsaw Narew and Bug Rivers form the Zegrzyński soil, it may be also derived from tar burning, was the Nieporęt Forest, small patches of Lake. The extensive surface of the artifi- that are “maź” (soft greasy substance). which have survived until the present day. cial reservoir is a curiosity in the Mazovia Explaining the region’s name is as difficult The northern edges of Mazovia are cov- landscape, which is deprived of lakes. On as marking its exact boundaries. Due to mul- ered by the Green Forest. On sandy dunes, a high western shore of the lake there is Se- tiple changes over the centuries they have IN the kaleIdoscope IN the kaleIdoscope of HIstorY THE NORTH-EASTERN MAZOVia THE NORTH-EASTERN MAZOVia of HIstorY become blurred in many places. The biggest ry settlers from the overpopulated parts of via lands were included into the Crown. In way was eagerly invested in craft; numerous in Poland Mazowieckie Voivodeship, which the region began to come to the north. The 1526, the last of the dukes of Mazovia, Ja- water mills, grinding workshops and paper has existed since 1999, occupies the larg- newcomers from the western part of Maz- nusz III, who was ruling in Warsaw, died heir- mills were established in towns at that time. est part of the historical Mazovia, stretching ovia were offered favourable conditions, as less. Due to the fact that the sad event took The lands between the Bug and Narew Riv- slightly further to the east and south. the Mazovia dukes were anxious about gath- place only a year and a half after the death ers remained in the hands of the bishops of The discussed part of the region was cov- ering the largest possible amount of wood. of his older brother Stanisław, and since Płock from the 11th century. The summer res- ered by impenetrable forests during the en- The demand for Polish pines and yews was both dukes were in their prime, the circum- idence of church dignitaries was in Pułtusk, tire Middle Ages period, which is why it used brought about by the coming of the epoch stances of their death remained the subject the bishops readily rested also in Brok and to be named the Forest Mazovia. The Mazo- of great geographical discoveries and the of gossip and inquiry for a long time. After Wyszków on the Bug River. Over the cen- via lands were a part of the Piast monarchy development of shipbuilding. In the 15th the incorporation into the Crown, the de- turies they became known as caring hosts, from the times of Mieszko I. In the reign of century, in the reign of Duke Janusz I, many scribed part of Mazovia was included in the who attached a lot of weight to preserving Władysław Herman (Ladislaus Herman) and manor seats were built in northern Mazovia, Mazowieckie Voivodeship with its capital in the good condition of the forests. Bolesław Krzywousty (Boleslaus the Wry- for example, in Maków Mazowiecki, Różan Warsaw. Until the mid-17th century Mazovia, The settlement of the forests in the mouthed) numerous towns, the inhabitants and Ostrołęka. The Duke visited his posses- being a stable centre of the great Republic northern Mazovia was still in progress. The of which grew wealthy through trade, were sions regularly, controlling the economy and of Poland, was in its golden age. Intensive main income source of the settlers com- built in the northern Mazovia. From the end presiding over the courts. The frequent visits development of towns began. In the area ing from somewhere on the Vistula River of the 12th century, when power was seized of the sovereign had a beneficial impact on discussed, Pułtusk, Przasnysz, Ostrołęka, Brok was hunting, fishery, forest bee-keeping by Konrad I (Conrad I), the Duchy of Mazo- the economic and cultural development of and Wyszków among others were growing and forest management. They also hewed via was politically independent. The forest the towns. in strength. The majority of towns were par- lime phloem, called “kurpie” - this is exactly borderland was inhabited by hunters, bee- As the ruling families from the Piast dy- tially agricultural, and their major source of how the new inhabitants of the Green For- keepers and tar makers. In the 14th centu- nasty were dying out, subsequent Mazo- income was trade. The capital earned in this est were named. 10 11 IN the kaleIdoscope IN the kaleIdoscope of HIstorY THE NORTH-EASTERN MAZOVia THE NORTH-EASTERN MAZOVia of HIstorY The end of the golden age came togeth- The rebuilding after the ravages of war Prussia. In 1806-1807 the Napoleonic cam- the majority in many towns. In 1830 the No- er with the Swedish Deluge in 1655. This de- made very slow progress. In 1730 Bishop paign swept through these lands. Success- vember Uprising broke out in Warsaw. The structive war, which lasted for several years, Stanisław Załuski began a repeat settlement ful battles with the Russians were fought majority of the population of Mazovia, irre- and the concurrent epidemics stopped of the White Forest. The Kurpie people were near Pułtusk (December 26th and 27th, 1806) spective of faith and social status, support- the development of the entire country for settled in the forests, but only those were and Ostrołęka (February 16th, 1807).