©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Eastern Europe

Estonia p178 Russia Latvia p232 p360 Lithuania p248 Belarus p60 Poland p308 Ukraine p448

Czech Republic p144 Slovakia Moldova p410 p264 Hungary Slovenia p198 Romania p430 p338 p116 p392 p92 Bosnia & Hercegovina p222 p74 p276 North Albania Macedonia p42 p290

Mark Baker, Greg Bloom, Stuart Butler, Peter Dragicevich, Steve Fallon, Anita Isalska, Vesna Maric, MaSovaida Morgan, Leonid Ragozin, Brana Vladisavljevic, Neil Wilson, Anthony Ham, Jessica Lee, Kevin Raub PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to ALBANIA...... 42 Veliko Târnovo ...... 107 Eastern Europe...... 6 Tirana...... 45 Black Sea Coast. . . . . 109 Eastern Europe Map. . . 8 Central Albania...... 49 Varna ...... 109 Eastern Europe’s Berat...... 49 Nesebâr ...... 111 Top 25...... 10 Gjirokastra...... 51 Burgas ...... 112 Sozopol ...... 113 Need to Know...... 22 The Albanian Riviera & the East...... 52 If You Like ...... 24 Saranda...... 53 CROATIA ...... 116 Month by Month. . . . . 28 Ksamil ...... 53 Zagreb ...... 120 Itineraries ...... 33 Himara...... 54 Istria...... 124 Shkodra...... 54 Rovinj...... 124 The Accursed Mountains Plitvice Lakes & the North...... 56 National Park ...... 125 Valbona ...... 56 Dalmatia ...... 126 Theth...... 57 Zadar ...... 126 Trogir ...... 128 BELARUS...... 60 Split ...... 129 Minsk...... 63 Hvar Island ...... 134 LUKASZIMILENAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Nyasvizh ...... 68 Dubrovnik ...... 136 BLUE PLANET STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK © Mir...... 68 Brest...... 68 CZECH Belavezhskaya REPUBLIC...... 144 Pushcha National Park. . . 71 Prague...... 147 Hrodna...... 71 Karlštejn ...... 159 Kutná Hora ...... 160 BOSNIA & Bohemia...... 160 HERCEGOVINA. . . . 74 Plzeň...... 160 Sarajevo...... 77 Český Krumlov...... 164 POČITELJ (P87), BOSNIA Hercegovina ...... 82 & HERCEGOVINA Karlovy Vary ...... 167 Mostar...... 82 Moravia ...... 168 Blagaj...... 86 Brno...... 168

JULIAN WORKER/SHUTTERSTOCK© Trebinje ...... 87 Olomouc ...... 171 Western Bosnia...... 88 Una River Valley...... 88 ESTONIA...... 178 Tallinn...... 181 BULGARIA...... 92 Northern Estonia. . . . 189 Sofia ...... 95 Lahemaa Southern Bulgaria. . . . 101 National Park ...... 189 Rila Monastery ...... 101 Southern Estonia. . . . 190 Melnik ...... 102 Otepää...... 190 Plovdiv ...... 103 Tartu...... 191 TIRASPOL (P273), MOLDOVA Central Bulgaria. . . . . 106 Western Estonia Koprivshtitsa ...... 106 & the Islands...... 192 Contents

Pärnu...... 192 Pécs ...... 214 Western Latvia. . . . . 242 Muhu ...... 193 Great Plain...... 215 Jūrmala...... 242 Saaremaa ...... 194 Szeged...... 216 Kuldīga...... 243 Northern Hungary . . . . 217 Ventspils ...... 244 HUNGARY...... 198 Eger ...... 217 Northern Latvia . . . . . 245 Budapest...... 200 Sigulda...... 245 Danube Bend & Western KOSOVO...... 222 Cēsis...... 246 Transdanubia ...... 210 Pristina...... 224 Szentendre ...... 210 Western Kosovo . . . . . 228 LITHUANIA. . . . . 248 Visegrád...... 210 Peja (Peć) ...... 228 Vilnius ...... 250 Esztergom...... 211 Southern Kosovo. . . . 229 Eastern & Southern Sopron...... 211 Prizren...... 229 Lithuania...... 256 Lake Balaton & Southern Paneriai...... 256 Transdanubia ...... 212 LATVIA...... 232 Trakai...... 256 Balatonfüred...... 212 Central Lithuania. . . . 257 Rīga...... 235 Keszthely...... 213 Kaunas...... 257

STARI GRAD, HVAR ISLAND (P134), CROATIA ON THE ROAD SPECTRAL-DESIGN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ČESKÝ KRUMLOV (P164),

Western Lithuania. . . . 259 Kotor...... 279 ...... 301 Klaipėda...... 259 Ulcinj ...... 282 Central North Curonian Spit...... 261 Inland Montenegro. . . . 283 Macedonia...... 305 Lovćen National Park . . . . 283 Pelister National Park . . . . 305 MOLDOVA...... 264 Cetinje...... 283 Bitola ...... 306 Chişinău...... 266 Durmitor Orheiul Vechi...... 271 National Park ...... 285 POLAND...... 308 Soroca...... 272 Warsaw...... 310 Gagauzia...... 272 NORTH Kraków...... 316 MACEDONIA. . . . . 290 Transdniestr ...... 273 Małopolska ...... 322 Tiraspol...... 273 Skopje ...... 292 Lublin...... 322 Canyon Matka...... 297 Carpathian MONTENEGRO. . . . 276 Western North Mountains...... 324 Macedonia...... 298 Zakopane...... 324 Coastal Montenegro...... 279 Mavrovo National Park. . .. 298 Silesia...... 326 Perast...... 279 ...... 300 Wrocław...... 326 Contents

SLOVAKIA...... 410 MARTINS VANAGS/SHUTTERSTOCK© Bratislava...... 413 Tatra Mountains. . . . . 420 Poprad...... 420 High Tatras ...... 421 Eastern Slovakia. . . . . 424 Levoča ...... 424 Spišské Podhradie. . . . . 424 Slovenský Raj & Around...... 425 Košice...... 426

SLOVENIA...... 430 Ljubljana ...... 432 The Julian Alps...... 438 Lake Bled...... 438 Lake Bohinj...... 440 Soča Valley ...... 442 Bovec...... 442 Slovenian Karst & Coast ...... 443 Postojna...... 443 Škocjan Caves ...... 444 Piran...... 445 TATRA MOUNTAINS (P420), SLOVAKIA UKRAINE...... 448 Kyiv...... 452 Wielkopolska...... 328 RUSSIA...... 360 Lviv...... 457 Poznań...... 328 Moscow ...... 363 Odesa...... 459 Pomerania...... 330 Golden Ring ...... 375 Gdańsk...... 330 Vladimir ...... 375 Toruń ...... 334 Suzdal ...... 376 SURVIVAL Sergiev Posad ...... 377 GUIDE ROMANIA...... 338 St Petersburg ...... 378 Bucharest ...... 340 Directory A–Z...... 464 Transylvania ...... 346 SERBIA...... 392 Transport...... 474 Braşov ...... 346 Belgrade...... 395 Language...... 481 Sighişoara...... 349 Vojvodina...... 402 Sibiu...... 350 Novi Sad...... 402 Index...... 500 Cluj-Napoca ...... 352 South Serbia...... 406 Map Legend...... 509 Banat...... 355 Niš...... 406 Timişoara...... 355 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 33

Itineraries

POLAND É Oświęcim É PRAGUE •# •#Kraków

É É #_ •# Kutná UKRAINE Hora

•# Plzeň É GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA

#_BRATISLAVA •#Eger É É #_ AUSTRIA BUDAPEST

HUNGARY É ROMANIA

•# Pécs ITALY SLOVENIA CROATIA SERBIA

Adriatic BOSNIA Sea & HERCEGOVINA

2 WEEKS Essential Eastern Europe

Combine highlights of the Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia and Hungary for an intro- duction to Eastern Europe’s charms. Start in Prague, spending two days absorbing the Old Town. Day-trip to Kutná Hora, to peep at its eerie and medieval silver history, and take a beer pilgrim- age to Plzeň. On day five head by train into Poland to reach Kraków, with its gob-smacking Main Square. Over three days, ramble Wawel Castle and off-beat Kazimierz, and take a trip to harrowing Oświęcim (Auschwitz). On day eight head to Slovakia, passing through the High Tatras before reaching Bra- tislava, with its Danube views. Spend the evening in wine bars and beer halls; the next morning, take a half-day excursion to crumbling Devín Castle. On day 10 take a boat down the Danube to Budapest. Spend a couple days simmering in outdoor baths, exploring coffee houses and ruin bars, and admiring the architecture. From here bolt to the baroque Eger and finish with a day trip to Pécs, full of relics from the Turkish occupation. 34

BELARUS

WARSAW #_ P O L A N D

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN GERMANY É UKRAINE Oświęcim •# •# Kraków PRAGUE #_ CZECH REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA É MOLDOVA #_BUDAPEST It ROMANIA AUSTRIA É i nerar HUNGARY

SLOVENIA Black CROATIA #_ BUCHAREST Sea i es BOSNIA & SERBIA HERCEGOVINA É BULGARIA SOFIA#_ ITALY Adriatic KOSOVO •# Plovdiv Sea MONTENEGRO TURKEY NORTH •# Rila Monastery ALBANIA MACEDONIA

2 WEEKS Eastern Europe 101

Looking to cram history, culture and nightlife into a zippy fortnight-long trip? This itin- erary knits together highlights from five Eastern European countries. Start off by flying to the Polish capital Warsaw for one night, seeing the beauti- fully restored Old Town and eating pierogi (dumplings) before taking the train south to Kraków. Staying for two nights gives you time to see the Old Town, Wawel Castle and Kazimierz, and do a day trip to Oświęcim (Auschwitz) before taking the overnight train to Prague. Spend another two days on intensive sightseeing – Prague Castle, Charles Bridge and the Old Town, and tasting Czech beer in a local pub. At the end of day five, take another overnight train to Budapest for two nights in Hungary. Soak in the glorious Gellért Baths, take a cruise on the Danube, see the mag- nificent Parliament building and wander Castle Hill before yet another overnight train (at the end of day seven) to Romania’s underrated capital, Bucharest. With a one-night stay you can cover the main sights, including the Palace of Parliament, wander the his- toric centre and pick up the city’s energy in its bars and clubs. On day nine, continue by bus or train to Plovdiv in Bulgaria, equally rich in Roman ruins, creaky Bulgarian Revival–era mansions, inventive galleries and bars. Stay two nights here, allowing time to amble through the Old Town, pose in the Roman Amphi- theatre, and take a half-day trip to vertiginous Asen’s Fortress. On day 11, take the train to Sofia for two nights exploring the glamour of the Bulgarian capital, in particular the golden-domed Aleksander Nevski Cathedral and the Ancient Serdica Complex. On your last day, take a day trip from Sofia through the Rila Mountains to the coun- try’s spiritual nucleus. Thousand-year-old Rila Monastery is Bulgaria’s holiest site, in a mountain setting as spine-tingling as its apocalyptic frescoes. From here, fly out of Sofia or continue to bigger regional air hubs, such as Athens or İstanbul, to get a flight home. 35

FINLAND •# St Petersburg

Peterhof •# Gulf of É

Finland É

SWEDEN #_ TRIP YOUR PLAN TALLINN estnIa

Pärnu É •# •# Tartu Saaremaa

É RUSSIA Gauja Gulf of National Rīga #÷ Park

•# Sigulda It Jūrmala •##_ RĪGA atIa i nerar Rundāle •# Palace i es B A LT I C •# Šiauliai S E A ears É ItanIa

•# Kaunas #_VILNIUS rssIa

2 WEEKS Baltic Blast

This trip weaves through four very different countries: skirting the Baltic coast, plung- ing through thick forests, and taking in treasured art. In the space of a fortnight you’ll see rolling countryside and discover three capitals – Tallinn, Rīga and Vilnius – along with timeless St Petersburg and quirky Baltic towns. Set aside three nights for heart-stoppingly beautiful St Petersburg to see the Hermit- age, Nevsky Prospekt’s mansions, and the amazing Church on the Spilled Blood. Head out of town to the reconstructed palaces and manicured gardens of Peterhof, which belonged to Peter the Great. Take a bus or train to the Estonian capital Tallinn for two days. Wander the chocolate-­box streets and stone towers of the 14th- and 15th-century Old Town before heading to the university town of Tartu, packed with interesting museums, parks and handsome wooden buildings. Duck west to the Baltic coast to find the inviting Estonian beach resort of Pärnu. Rest here for a day to indulge in the pleasures of summer holi- day-making: mud baths, Bacchanalian nightlife and golden-sand beaches. At the beginning of week two, continue into Latvia, stopping off in cheerful Sigulda. Spend a day walking in the tranquil landscapes and dense forests of Gauja National Park. On day 10, continue on to Rīga, Latvia’s delightful capital, where you can soak up fantastic art-nouveau architecture, plus bleak history and a contrastingly friendly Old Town, over two days. On one of the days, take an excursion to the opulent Rundāle Pal- ace to see how the aristocrats lived. On day 12, day-trip to the beaches of Jūrmala. Lithuania is next, and it greets you with the astounding Hill of Crosses in Šiauliai, an icon of Lithuanian identity. Spirited university town Kaunas is Lithuania’s second city, boasting a leafy old centre and bookish cafes, as well as being just a short distance away from the chilling history of war and deportation at Ninth Fort. Finally, end your journey in beautiful Vilnius, the country’s crowning glory.

36 FINLAND É •#St Petersburg

Veliky #_TALLINN •#Novgorod

ESTONIA •# É MOSCOW Saaremaa Pärnu PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN SWEDEN #_ LATVIA •# •# #_ Sigulda RUSSIA Ventspils RĪGA

É

LITHUANIA Curonian •# É VILNIUS Spit B A LT I C #_ É É S E A •# É #_MINSK Kaliningrad RUSSIA

It BELARUS É

i nerar POLAND

WARSAW#_ #_ GERMANY KYIV

i es É Lviv É •# UKRAINE CZECH REPUBLIC Sea of SLOVAKIA MOLDOVA Azov AUSTRIA HUNGARY ROMANIA

3 WEEKS East of East Tour

Pull back the old Iron Curtain to discover the history and beauty of these one-time So- viet satellites of regional heavyweight Russia. Begin with two days in dynamic Warsaw, with its revamped Old Town, museums and royal parks. From here take a train to Lviv, Ukraine’s most beautiful city, and spend a day enjoying Old Town churches and enchanting Lychakiv . After Lviv, con- tinue by train to imposing Kyiv, where sacred relics repose beneath gilded domes. After a couple of days enjoying the sights in the Ukrainian capital, and perhaps a guided tour of Chornobyl’s exclusion zone, take the sleeper train to the megalopolis Moscow, a place of striking extremes, dazzling wealth and gridlocked traffic. Drink in the history of the Kremlin, see Lenin’s Mausoleum, St Basil’s Cathedral and Red Square, and sample the nightlife and fashion. Once you’ve had your fill, leave Moscow and visit picturesque Veliky Novgorod en route to the beautiful baroque and neoclassical architecture of St Petersburg. You could easily spend three days here, although there are abundant sights around as well, such as the tsarist palace Tsarskoe Selo. When you’re ready to head off, grab a train to Estonia’s magical capital, Tallinn, where you can soak up the medieval Old Town. Head south and relax on the golden-sand beaches of Pärnu before continuing to the Latvian capital Rīga, and its fine collection of art-nouveau architecture. Squeeze in trips to the caves and medieval castles of Sig- ulda, and the breathtaking coastline around Ventspils. Cross into Lithuania, where a night or two in Vilnius will reveal the Baltic’s most underrated capital. From Vilnius travel to the huge sand dunes of the amazing Curo- nian Spit. If you’ve arranged a double-entry visa for Russia, cross over into the melting- pot exclave of Kaliningrad. Alternatively, if you’ve sorted a Belarus visa, take the train to this isolated republic with its pleasant capital Minsk before re-entering Poland and heading back to Warsaw. 37 IGORLUSHCHAYI/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

Top: Kotor’s Old Town MARINA ZEZELINA2/SHUTTERSTOCK© (p279), Montenegro Bottom: Cathedral of St Sophia in Veliky Novgorod, Russia 38

AUSTRIA HUNGARY Julian Alps R SLOVENIA PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN #_LJUBLJANA Novi Sad ROMANIA CROATIA •#

É BELGRADE #_

BOSNIA & •# Varna SERBIA É HERCEGOVINA É

#_ É •# Black •# SARAJEVO Veliko Sea Dalmatian É Târnovo Mostar•#

It Coast É É MONTENEGRO PRISTINA BULGARIA i nerar KOSOVO #_ Kotor •# TURKEY Adriatic Dubrovnik •# •# Sea •# Prizren #_ SKOPJE

Sveti É NORTH

i es Stefan MACEDONIA É TIRANA #_ •# Ohrid ITALY •#Berat ALBANIA Aegean GREECE Sea Ionian Sea

3 WEEKS Breezing through the

Taking its name from the Balkan Mountains, this is a fascinating region of Eastern Eu- rope lapped by different seas, with enigmatic fortresses and intriguing towns. Begin in Slovenia, where the capital Ljubljana is a delight with a castle, beautiful buildings and bridges. Indulge in superb scenery and adrenaline-rush sports in the Julian Alps before heading south to Croatia and to the beaches along the Dalmatian Coast. Stop in Dubrovnik to explore the Old Town and the surrounding islands. Detour into Bosnia and – first visit Mostar to see the legendary bridge and the multi-ethnic community that has enjoyed rejuvenation since the Balkan Wars, then spend a night or two in bustling Sarajevo. Head south to the coast and east into Montenegro: visit the historic walled city of Kotor, see the impressive coastline and mountains, and enjoy the beaches around the fortified island village of Sveti Stefan before pressing south into Albania. After exploring Tirana, a mountain-shrouded, ramshackle capital, make an excursion to the Unesco-listed town of Berat, before taking a bus into little-explored North Mac- edonia, ending up in sublime Ohrid. Spend at least two days here, enjoying the ancient churches and swimming in the eponymous lake. Make your way to Skopje, North Mac- edonia’s capital, where an abundance of gleaming, modern Italianate structures are re- defining the city for the 21st century. Take the train to Pristina, Kosovo’s cosmopolitan capital, from where it’s an easy hop to Prizren, a mosque-filled old town. To reach Serbia’s capital Belgrade, you’ll need to backtrack to Skopje and board the international train. Don’t miss the city’s ancient Kalemegdan Citadel and the hip res- taurant and clubbing scenes. Take a detour to laid-back Novi Sad with its neoclassical buildings, outdoor cafes and Danube views. A cross-border bus or train will take you into Bulgaria. Head east to Veliko Târnovo, the ancient capital with a dramatic, river-wrapped setting. From here it’s an easy bus to Varna by the Black Sea, complete with beaches, Roman ruins and open-air clubs. 39

ItanIa

MINSK rssIa É #_ rssIa Mir•# •#

Nyasvih ears É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

#_ KYI an

raIne É It

a i nerar saIa Orheiul echi •# Tiraspol #_ •# •#Odesa Clu-

CHIŞINĂU i es Napoca •# ranIa É nar É Sibiu •# É •# raşov B L A C K S E A •# •# Timişoara ran ratIa serIa Castle

3 WEEKS On the Edge

Covering the easternmost edge of the region (before Russia), this itinerary balances pret- ty towns and fortresses with time-trapped Belarus and border anomaly Transdniestr. Start in one of Romania’s underrated westerly cities: either lively Timişoara, with its history of anti-Ceauşescu revolt, or edgy Cluj-Napoca, harbouring avant-garde nightlife and coffee spots. On day three, head east to elegant Sibiu, before pressing on to Braşov on day four. Allow three days to traipse Braşov’s forested hills, meander medi- eval laneways and day-trip to bear country or dramatic Bran Castle. Start week two by entering lost-in-time Moldova. Spend a day or two exploring gritty but green capital Chişinău; excellent local wine is plentiful and cheap. Allow a day to visit the stunning cave monastery at Orheiul Vechi, and another to time-travel into Transdniestr, a country that doesn’t officially exist. Little appears to have changed in the ‘capital’ Tiraspol since the Soviet era. Entering Ukraine on day 11, make a beeline for Odesa, which is only two hours by train or bus from Tiraspol, to enjoy the seaside setting of Ukraine’s Black Sea resort. Next, head north and devote around four days to the country’s dynamic capital, Kyiv. An ancient seat of Slavic and Orthodox culture, it’s a modern metropolis that played a star- ring role in the 2014 Maidan Revolution. Don’t miss the Pecherska Lavra complex and St Sophia’s Cathedral, as well as ousted ex-president Viktor Yanukovych’s opulent mansion Mezhyhirya. The final stop takes you to Belarus, Europe’s so-called ‘last dictatorship’. To avoid having to arrange a Belarus visa, fly from Kyiv to monolithic Minsk, a city dominated by Stalinist avenues and Soviet memorials. Minsk is generating buzz for its scintillating nightlife, centred around the up-and-coming arts quarter vul Katrychnitskaya. End your journey with a trip to the provinces. Check out the castle in Mir, then experience provin- cial life in Nyasvizh with its ancient churches and 16th-century castle. 40

LITHUANIA DENMARK SWEDEN Klaipėda•# É Kurshskaya Kosa ÷# #_VILNIUS National Park RUSSIA •#Kaliningrad Gdańsk •# NORTH •# SEA BELARUS

Malbork É Poznań •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN POLAND Wrocław UKRAINE GERMANY •#

CZECH É REPUBLIC Slovenský Raj Sea of ÷#National Park Azov SLOVAKIA MOLDOVA AUSTRIA #_BRATISLAVA HUNGARY Lake Balaton •#

It SWITZERLAND SLOVENIA É •#Szeged ROMANIA

i nerar B L A C K S E A Fruška Gora ÷#•#Novi Sad #_ CROATIA BELGRADE Durmitor SERBIA National Park i es BULGARIA Ostrog ÷# KOSOVO Monastery ITALY •##_PODGORICA Kotor •#•# Budva

#_TIRANA TURKEY É ALBANIA Gjirokastra Saranda•#•# MEDITERRANEAN •# GREECE SEA Butrint •# 4 WEEKS The Ionian to the Baltic

This eight-country odyssey extends from the Ionian to Baltic Seas, darting between sea- facing fortresses, mountainous vistas and undiscovered towns. Arrive in Albania by ferry at the port of Saranda, and head to the ruins in Butrint. Continue through Albania to Unesco-listed Gjirokastra, whose stone-and-slate Old Town is Albania’s loveliest. Press on to the capital Tirana for a couple of days of colour- ful cityscapes and inventive museums, before journeying on to Montenegro. Move first to Budva with its atmospheric Old Town and beaches and then discover ancient, walled Kotor. Head north to the cliff-face-hugging Ostrog Monastery and on to Durmitor National Park for hiking, rafting and canyoning. From Montenegro’s capital Podgorica, catch an overnight train to vibrant Serbian capital Belgrade. Stroll the citadels and drink by the Danube, then continue north to convivial, Austro-Hungarian-influenced Novi Sad and explore the Fruška Gora monasteries and vineyards. Cross into Hungary at culture-crammed Szeged and head for Lake Balaton. Keep surging north into Slovakia, aiming for plucky Bratislava, to spend a few days hopping between cafes and castles. Venture onward to chilly gorges and cascades in high-octane Slovenský Raj National Park. Crossing the Tatra Mountains into Poland, travel to cultural hive Wrocław, spending a few days admiring street art and edgy galleries before dropping in on pastel-coloured Poznań. From here, head for the Baltic coast: Gdańsk is a thriving port where WWII broke out. From here, make day trips to beaches and to Malbork, famed for Europe’s biggest Gothic castle. Next up is the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad, which combines elements of Prussia, the USSR and modern Russia. Return to the coast to travel through Kaliningrad’s Kur- shskaya Kosa National Park and cross into the Lithuanian section of birch-forested Curonian Spit, aiming for Klaipėda, Lithuania’s main port. End your trip in many- steepled Vilnius. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 498

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

LP’s London office thanks to Brana for all her tips, WRITER THANKS suggestions and endless Balkan knowledge. Mark Baker I owe a debt of gratitude to many friends and Peter Dragicevich organisations on the ground in the Czech Republic, First and foremost, I’d like to say a huge hvala to Romania and Bulgaria for helping me to update this Vojko, Marija, Ivan, Mario and Ivana Dragičević in content. An incomplete list would include Kateřina Split, for the kindness and patience you’ve shown Pavlitová and the staff at Prague City Tourism. In your distant cousin over the years. Thanks also to Romania, Monica Suma, Ligia-Verkin Keșișian, Mark Hayley Wright, Slavenko Sucur, and Emma and Ben and Raluca Tudose. In Bulgaria, Dani Nencheva, Petia Hayward for the tips and chats. Special thanks to my Yoncheva, Petya Lubomirova, and Tatyana Spasova. destination editors, Anna Tyler and Brana Vladisavl- At Lonely Planet, my Destination Editors Gemma jevic, and all of the writers, editors and Lonely Planet Graham and Brana Vladisavljevic. staff who contributed to this book. Greg Bloom Steve Fallon Another big hearty bearhug to dad for tagging along Thanks to Virág Katona, Judit Maróthy, Dávid Máté, for a big chunk of the research, even enduring a near Ildikó Nagy Moran, Bea Szirti and Adrian Zador for flash flood in Gagauzia. Tiraspol Tim was his usual their very helpful suggestions. Gábor Banfalvi and helpful self, and thanks also to the handy new tourist Péter Lengyel showed me the correct wine roads offices in Tiraspol and Chişinău. Thanks to Leonid to follow; Tony Láng and Balázs Váradi the political in Brest for the Belevezhskaya tour. Back home, ones. Once again Michael Buurman opened his flat immeasurable thanks to my sanity checks, Callie and for me in Budapest; thanks to Tal Lev for hospitality. Anna. And to Windi, for holding down the fort while Nagyon szépen köszönöm mindenkinek! As always, I was away. I’d like to dedicate my share of this to partner Michael Rothschild, with love and gratitude. Stuart Butler The first people I must thank are my wife, Heather, Anthony Ham and children, Jake and Grace, for their unending Many thanks to Luca, Miriam, Lidija, Marija in Croatia, patience while I worked on this project and for being to Romana Nared, Ana Petrič and Franc Mlakar in the the best travel companions a person could want in Lož Valley, and to Saša and Jure in Idrija, and all the Albania. In Kosovo huge thanks to Nol and Virtyt for staff at tourist offices across Croatia and Slovenia. their help and hiking knowledge. In Albania huge At Lonely Planet, I am grateful to my editor Anna thanks to Amar in Tirana and Altin in Ksamil. Back in Tyler for sending me to such wonderful places, and 499 to my fellow writers Peter, Mark and Jess for their Leonid Ragozin wisdom. To my family – Marina, Jan, Carlota and I’d like to thank my friends Dima Zhuravlev, Dima Valentina: con todo mi amor. Muzychenko and Sasha Agatov for helping out with research ideas and providing company in Moscow. Anita Isalska Also many thanks to Anya and Yulia Semyonov for an My research in Slovakia and Lithuania was greatly excellent dinner and help in St Petersburg. In Ukraine, enriched by the generous advice and local insights thanks to Katya Sergatskova, Yevhen Stepanenko, SCENES THE BEHIND of Slavo Stankovic, Marek Leskovjansky, Jana Misha Friedman and Serhiy Savhcuk for joining me Kačalová, Gintarė Kavaliūnaitė and Raimonda on daring research expeditions into the culinary Patapavičienė. For cider-soaked bar research, an temples and drinking dens of Kyiv, Odesa and Lviv. extra thank you to Tom Hewitson. A big na zdravie (and na zdrowie) to my parents, Barbara and Harry, Kevin Raub for their enthusiastic participation in Bratislava Thanks to Brana Vladisavljevic and all my fellow bar crawls. My heartiest thanks, as ever, to Normal partners in crime at LP. On the road, Jelena Stank- Matt for moral support and mountain driving. ović, Maja Živković, Suna Kažić, Marija Mitrović, Dejan Majić, Tijana Vujasinović, Goran Magdić, Djole Jessica Lee Jovanović, Filip Mićić, Luka Pejović and Mihailo A big thanks to the people of Croatia for being Subotić. such great company. In particular, a huge thank you to the enthusiastic staff at the tourist informa- Brana Vladisavljevic tion offices of Varaždin, Osijek and Zagreb County Hvala puno to James Smart and Jennifer Carey in Croatia, and Celje, Dolenjske Toplice, Murska for the support, Kate Morgan for her guidebook Sobata and Ptuj in Slovenia, for being founts of authoring advice, co-writer Kevin Raub for excel- knowledge and helpful information and a big lent work on Belgrade, Novi Sad and Niš updates, thank you to Anton, Irena, Mila, Tea, Tom, Zvonimir, Dragiša Mijačić for great tips on Stara Planina and Skanka and Igor, Petra, Daniel and Lea for tips and Kragujevac, and my sister Sandra for keeping me chats. company on the road for a few days. Vesna Maric Neil Wilson I would like to thank Maja Trajkovska, Metodi A big thank you to helpful tourist office staff all Chilimanov, Magdalena Lazarevska and Slobodan over Poland, to Łukasz Śmigiel in Gdańsk, and Đudurović for making my time in North Macedonia as ever to Carol Downie. Thanks also to Gemma more special than I could imagine. Big thank yous Graham and the rest of the Lonely Planet team. go to Brana Vladisavljevic for commissioning me and always being such a great and kind editor. Thanks also to Tom Masters for his help. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS MaSovaida Morgan Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of Deepest thanks to the wonderful souls who offered the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- guidance, tips, recommendations, and delight- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. fully deep conversations during this eye-opening journey. Extra special thanks to LeCiel, Didzis, Rita, Cover photograph: Windows of a Russian country Lemmit, Anna, Anet, and Davis. house, Svetlana Sysoeva/Shutterstock © Illustrations p364–5, p380–1 by Javier Zarracina.

Senior Product Editors Jennifer Hattam, Gabrielle THIS BOOK Grace Dobell, Elizabeth Jones Innes, Kellie Langdon, Alison This 15th edition of Lonely Plan- Regional Senior Cartogra- Morris, Claire Naylor, Rosie et’s Eastern Europe guidebook phers Mark Griffiths, Valentina Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, was researched and written by Kremenchutskaya, Anthony Kristin Odijk, Susan Pater- Mark Baker, Greg Bloom, Stuart Phelan son, Monique Perrin, Tamara Sheward, Fionnuala Twomey, Butler, Peter Dragicevich, Steve Product Editor Fallon, Anthony Ham, Anita Is- Kathryn Rowan Simon Williamson alska, Jessica Lee, Vesna Maric, Book Designer Clara Monitto Assisting Cartographers MaSovaida Morgan, Leonid Julie Dodkins, Rachel Imeson, Assisting Editors Janet Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Brana Katerina Pavkova Austin, Sarah Bailey, Judith Vladisavljevic and Neil Wilson. Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Cover Researcher This guidebook was produced Michelle Bennett, Carolyn Naomi Parker by the following: Boicos, Katie Connolly, Joel Thanks to Vesna Čelebić, Dan- Destination Editors Gemma Cotterell, Jacqueline Danam, iel Herszberg, Günther Mimm, Graham, Anna Tyler, Brana Samantha Forge, Emma Gibbs, Aristea Parissi, Rachel Rawling, Vladisavljevic Kirsten Rawlings, Tony Wheeler ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 500

Index

A Mediana 406 legal matters 72 Bosnia & Hercegovina accessible travel 464 Orheiul Vechi 271-2 opening hours 72 74-91, 76 Albania 58 Roman Forum 126 public holidays 72-3 accommodation 74, 75, 89 Bulgaria 114 architecture 14, 27 telephone services 73 climate 74 Hungary 219 art galleries, see museums travel seasons 60 costs 75 Romania 357 & galleries travel to/from 61, 73 food 74, 75 Russia 388 art nouveau 238 travel within 73 highlights 76 accommodation 464-6, see ATMs 469-70 visas 73 itineraries 75 also individual locations Auschwitz-Birkenau Belavezhskaya Pushcha LGBT+ travellers 89 Accursed Mountains Memorial & Museum National Park 71 opening hours 90 56-8, 17 321, 162 Belgrade 17, 395-402, public holidays 90 activities 28-32, see also 396-7, 17 safety 90 individual activities B accommodation 398-9 travel seasons 74 air travel 474, 475 Balatonfüred 212-13 climate 392 travel to/from 75, 90-1 airports 474 Banat 355-7 drinking & nightlife 400 travel within 91 Albania 42-59, 44 Banská Štiavnica 418 entertainment 400-1 visas 90 accessible travel 58 banya 372 food 399-400 Bovec 442-3 accommodation 42, Baščaršija 77 shopping 401 Boyana 100 43, 58 bathhouses sights 395-8 Brajčino 305 climate 42 Anna Baths 216 tourist information 401 Bran Castle 348 costs 43 Debrecen 217 tours 398 Braşov 346-9, 347 food 42, 43 Gellért Baths 201 travel to/from 401 Bratislava 413-20, 414-15 highlights 44 Mytninskiye Bani 372 travel within 402 accommodation 416-17 itineraries 43 Sanduny Baths 372 Berat 49-51, 50 activities 415-16 language 481-2 Széchenyi Baths 203 bicycle travel, see cycling climate 410 LGBT+ travellers 58 bathrooms 472-3 Biron, Ernst Johann 243 drinking & nightlife 417 opening hours 58 beaches 24 Bitola 306-7 entertainment 417-18 public holidays 58 Belgrade 398 Bjelašnica 81 festivals & events 416 telephone services 58 Black Sea 18, 109-114 18 Black Lake 285 food 417 travel seasons 42 Dupeni Beach 301 Black Sea beaches 18, 18 history 413 travel to/from 43, 58-9 Helikon Beach 213 Black Sea coast 109-14 shopping 418 travel within 59 Hvar Island 135 Blagaj 86-7 sights 413, 415 women travellers 58 Ohrid 301 Blagaj Tekke 86-7 tourist information 418 Albanian language 481-2 Pärnu 193 Bled Island 438 tours 416 Albanian Riviera 52-6 Sozopol 113 Blue Eye 57 travel to/from 418-19 Aparaaditehas 191 Ventspils Beach 244 boat tours travel within 419 Apollonia 49 Bear Sanctuary 229 Lake Bled 438 Bratislava Castle 413 archaeological sites Belarus 60-73, 62 Lake Ohrid 300 Brest 68-71 Ancient Serdica Complex accommodation 60, 61 Moscow 371 breweries 95 climate 60 boat travel 475, 476 Jan Olbracht 335 Apollonia 49 costs 61 bobsledding 245 Old Town Brewery 296 Heraclea Lyncestis 306 food 60, 61 Bohemia 160-8 Pilsner Urquell Brewery highlights 62 Bojnice Castle 419 160-1 internet access 72 Bolshoi Theatre 373 Pravda Beer Theatre 458 Map Pages 000 internet resources 61 border crossings 231, bridges Photo Pages 000 itineraries 61 309, 477 Arslanagić Bridge 88 501 Charles Bridge 152 C Malbork Castle 332, 25 Český Krumlov 20, 164-7, Old Stone Bridge 83 cable cars Mir Castle 68 165, 4, 20 Stari Most (Mostar) 83 Bovec 442 Moscow Kremlin 363, Cetinje 283-5 Tara Bridge 286 Dubrovnik 137 364-5 Chagall, Marc 69 Triple Bridge 433 Mt Tâmpa 346 Nyasvizh Castle 68 children, travel with 466 Brno 168-71 Sarajevo Cable Car 77, 79 Old Royal Palace 147 Chişinău 266-71, 268 Bucharest 340-6, 342 Tatranská Lomnica 422 Ornamental Palace 216 Chornobyl 453 INDEX accommodation 343 Zakopane 325 Ostrožac Fortress 89 churches & cathedrals climate 338 camping 464-5 Pavlovsk Great Palace Aleksander Nevski

-B  386 drinking & nightlife 344 Canyon Matka 297-8 Cathedral 95

Peter & Paul Fortress  C entertainment 344-5 canyoning 287 Alexander Nevsky Ortho- 384-5 dox Cathedral 181 food 344 Čara 136 Petrovaradin Fortress Assumption Cathedral shopping 345 car travel 475, 476-8 402 (Moscow) 366 sights 341, 343 driving licences 476 Prague Castle 147, 148 Assumption Cathedral tourist information 345 hazards 478 Predjama Castle 444 (Vladimir) 375 travel to/from 345 hire 477 Prizren Fortress 229 Basilica of St Stephen travel within 345-6 road rules 478 Râşnov Fortress 348 202-3 Bucovina 354 Carpathian Mountains Rector’s Palace 137 Benedictine Abbey Budapest 11, 200-9, , 324-6 Church 215 202 Reök Palace 216 204, 10-11 Casa Vlad Dracul 349 Black Church 346 Royal Castle 311 accommodation 205-6 castles, fortresses & Blue Church 413 palaces 24 Royal Palace (Budapest) drinking & nightlife 201 Boyana Church 100 207-8 Asen’s Fortress 105 Royal Palace (Visegrád) Cathedral of Christ the entertainment 208 Belgrade Fortress 395 211 Saviour 370 festivals & events 205 Bendery Fortress 274 Rozafa Fortress 55 Cathedral of St Barbara 160 food 206-7 Bled Castle 438 Rundāle Palace 243 internet access 208 Bojnice Castle 419 Cathedral of St Domnius Soroca Fortress 272 131 medical services 208-9 Bran Castle 348 Špilberk Castle 169 shopping 208 Bratislava Castle 413 Cathedral of St Elizabeth Spiš Castle 424 426 sights 200-5 Brest Fortress 70 Trakai Castle 256 Cathedral of St George Catherine Palace 386 tourist offices 209 Tsarevets Fortress 107 445 Cēsis Castle 246 travel to/from 209 Turaida Museum Reserve Cathedral of St John the travel within 209 Český Krumlov State 245 Baptist (Lublin) 323 Castle 164 budget 23, see also indi- Tvrdina Kale Fortress 293 Cathedral of St John the vidual locations Citadel (Sighişoara) 349 Vyšehrad Citadel 154 Baptist (Wrocław) 327 Budva 282 Citadel (Visegrád) 210-11 Wawel Royal Castle Cathedral of the Bulgaria 92-115, 94 City Walls & Forts 316-17 Assumption 137-8 accessible travel 114 (Dubrovnik) 12, 137, 12 Winter Palace 379 Cathedral of the accommodation 92, Devín Castle 419-20 cathedrals, see churches & Assumption of the 93, 114 Diocletian’s Palace 130-1 cathedrals Blessed Virgin Mary 120 climate 92 Eger Castle 218 Catherine Palace 386 Church of Our Lady costs 93 Festetics Palace 213 caves Before Týn 149 food 92, 93 Fort Lawrence 139 Cave Vrelo 298 Church of Rozhdestvo Fortica 135 highlights 94 Dobšinská Ice Cave 425 Bogorodichno 101 Gjirokastra Castle 51-2 internet access 114 Lipa Cave 284 Church of St James 149 Golubac Fortress 407 itineraries 93 Postojna Cave 443-4 Church of St John the language 482-3 Hrodna 71-2 Škocjan Caves 444-5 Baptist 440 LGBT+ travellers 114 Kalaja 49 Cavtat 141 Church of Sveta Bogo- opening hours 114 Karlštejn Castle 159-60 cell phones 22, 472 rodica Perivlepta 302 public holidays 114 Kaštilac 132 Church of Sveti Andrej telephone services 114-15 King Nikola Museum 284 Antakalnis Cemetery 253 298 travel seasons 92 Klis Fortress 133 Capuchin Monastery 169 Church of Sveti Jovan at travel to/from 93, 115 Kotor City Walls 281-2 Lychakivsky Cemetery Kaneo 301-2, 16 travel within 115 Kremlin (Suzdal) 376 457 Church of the Dormition of St Mary 49-50 Bulgarian language 482-3 Kuressaare Castle 194-5 Mirogoj 120 Church of the Holy Burgas 112-13 Ljubljana Castle 433 Partisan Memorial Cross 311 bus travel 475, 476 Lower Town Wall (Tallinn) Cemetery 83 183-4 Černý, David 153, 154 Church of the Interces- business hours 470 sion on the Nerl 375 Butrint 54 Lublin Castle 322 Cēsis 246

- 31 301 335 32 32 - , 406 , , 205 403 see also see 279 , 267 , 108 28 , , 31 176 31 8 31

30 - 28 32 29 30 30 331

castles, castles, 2 , 3 469 297 - 30 - 465 museums & & museums 4 375 30 31 301 - 51 see 29 see also individ 272 , 214 100 see 29 299 6 330 - , 102 , , 205 25 Festival Festival Music & Crafts 28 Day 29 Festival Jazz 303 30, 29 29 galleries travellers LGBT+ ual locations ual & palaces fortresses 465 Dubrovnik Summer Summer Dubrovnik Sacred of Festival Easter Festival EXIT Arts Medieval of Festival Festival Golden Grapes Labour International Kurentovanje Music Biennale Zagreb International Nišville Spring & Fringe Prague Festival Rose Film Sarajevo Festival 69 30, Bazaar Slavyansky Day St John’s Festival Sziget Východná Nights White Festival Wine Budapest Spring Festival Spring Festival Budapest Markets Christmas Festival Coffee G F galleries, galleries, travellers gay Gdańsk Gjirokastra Golden Ring Golem Grad Goli Vrâh Gorno Nerezi Gospa od Škrpjela Lakes Masurian Great Grūtas Park 258, guesthouses Gyógy-tó food food fortresses, Gagauzia Galičica National Park Galičnik farmhouse accommodation accommodation farmhouse events & festivals 7 5 - - 9 - , 407 8 196 174 174 6 196 - - , , 425 195 174 178 486 138 12 196 174 - , 20 195 174 178 144 424 179 145 174 5 - 420 195 173 - 23 180 197 175 42 258 - , 351 210 42 - 419 179 180 safety 97 486 484 179 100 car travel car - 211 467 , 136 467 178 217 6 126 - see 195 19 - 179 8 see 178 , 305 178 - accessible travel accessible 25 217 179 Art Museum Art Museum see 285 travel seasons seasons travel to/from travel within travel accommodation accommodation climate costs food highlights itineraries language matters legal travellers LGBT+ opening hours public holidays services telephone language language matters legal travellers LGBT+ hours opening public holidays services telephone offices tourist seasons travel to/from travel within travel E D Estonian language language Estonian Esztergom rates exchange Eastern Slovakia Slovakia Eastern Eger electricity embassies Estonia Debrecen Debrecen Đerdap National Park Castle Devín Dihovo with, travellers disabilities, Cave Ice Dobšinská Dragalevtsi drinks driving, Druskininkai’s Dubrovnik National Park Durmitor Dalmatia Dalmatia dangers, Bend Danube Delta Danube Meulensteen Danubiana - 8 , 18 - 95

12 - 4 ,

19 111 - , , , - 3 95 2 143 - 145 117 293 - 5 147 397 143 - 18 75 251 , 317 -

144 116 , 483 118 , 137, 142 177 261 , 5 142 116 117 16 95 4 - 18 , 484 - 12 144 - 143 43 18 - 302 145 117 352 415 146 118 470 145 483 117 see also also see 467 116 , , , 144 116 , 22 173 142 145 117 , 22 11 26 476 144 116 , 145 117 295 nička nička & Nikola Sveti Bolnički Church iska 302 281 146 (Dubrovnik) (Dubrovnik) locations individual highlights highlights resources internet itineraries accommodation accommodation climate costs food travel to/from to/from travel within travel Bratislava Spit Curonian food food highlights resources internet itineraries language opening hours public holidays services telephone seasons travel accommodation accommodation climate costs Sveti Spas Church Church Spas Sveti Church Stefan Sveti Cathedral Vilnius Cathedral Wawel Sveta Petka Samardzhi Petka Sveta Church Sofia Sveta Sofija Sveta Cathedral Rotunda Georgi Sveti Temple Sava Sveti St Tryphon’s Cathedral Cathedral St Tryphon’s St Vitus Cathedral Bol Bogorodica Sveta Czech language language Czech Republic Czech Croatian language language Croatian culture Spit Curonian currency cycling Cluj-Napoca Cluj-Napoca relics communist consulates cards credit Croatia City Walls & Forts & Forts Walls City climate , 7 - - 10 , 128 379 353 136 366 172 267 379 126 211 138 153 317 329 235 332 253 201 183 214 160 257 235 8 - 000 181 238 152 000 141 69 257 350 302 418 148 8 14 - , (Prague) (Prague) 452 Church Church (Cavtat) Church Church Church Church Cathedral 129 124 & Monastery 7 127 politan Cathedral Cathedral politan Jesus of Prague Prague of Jesus Cathedral the Spilled Blood the Spilled 87 continued Map Pages Map Pages Pages Photo St Olaf’s Church Church St Olaf’s Church St Peter’s Cathedral St Sophia’s St Nicholas Brotherly St Nicholas Brotherly Church St Nicholas’ St Nicholas Church St Michael the Archangel Archangel St Michael the Church St Michael’s Cathedral St Moritz St Mary’s Church Church St Mary’s Evangelical St Mary’s Lutheran St Mary’s St Lawrence’s Cathedral Cathedral St Lawrence’s Cathedral St Mark’s Basilica St Mary’s St Francis Xavier Church Church Xavier St Francis Cathedral St Isaac’s Cathedral St James’ St Blaise’s Church Church St Blaise’s Church St Donatus’ Church St Euphemia’s Sedlec Ossuary Ossuary Sedlec Cathedral St Anastasia’s Church St Anne’s Cathedral St Basil’s Plaošnik Plaošnik Cathedral Poznań Rīga Cathedral Museum of the Infant the Infant of Museum Christ of Nativity Metro Christ of Nativity Kalvária Kalvária Loreta Church Matthias Church Mosque Church of the Saviour on on the Saviour of Church Basilica Esztergom Gračanica Hercegovačka churches & cathedrals & cathedrals churches

C-G

INDEX 502 503 H food 198, 199, 25 K sights 452 health 467-8 highlights 200 Kadriorg Park 184-5 travel within 457 Hercegovina, see Bosnia & itineraries 199 Kalamaja 184 Hercegovina language 486-8 Karaite people 257 L Hévíz 214, 17 legal matters 219 Karlovy Vary 167-8 Lahemaa National Park High Tatras 15, 421-4, 15 LGBT+ travellers 219 Karlštejn 159-60 189-90 hiking 25 opening hours 220 Katarinin Trg 120 Lake Balaton 17, 212-15 INDEX Durmitor National Park public holidays 220 Kaunas 257-9 Lake Bled 438-40 286 telephone services 220 kayaking 256, 298 Lake Bohinj 440-1 -High Tatras 15, 421, 15 travel seasons 198 Kazanlâk 108 Lake Ohrid 16, 300-1  H Konjic 83 travel to/from 199, 220-1 Kecskemét 216 lakes  L Mt Vodno 297 travel within 221 Keszthely 213-14 Black Lake 285 Peaks of the Balkans 227 Hvar Island 11, 134-6, 3 Khatyn 68 Great Masurian Lakes Pelister National Park 305 Hvar Town 134, 11 Klaipėda 259-61 335 Rugova Valley 227 Konjic 83 Lake Balaton 17, 212-15 Smokovec Resort Towns Koprivshtitsa 106-7 Lake Bled 438-40 422 I Lake Bohinj 440-1 ice skating 185 Korčula Island 136 Theth 57 Lake Koman 56 insurance 468, 477 Košice 426-8 Tihany 215 Lake Ohrid 16, 300-1 internet access 468-9 Kosovo 222-31, 224 Valbona 57 Lake Prespa 301 internet resources 23 accommodation 222, Via Dinarica Hiking 223, 230 Morskie Oko 324 Trail 286 islands border crossings 231 Pühajärv 190 Vitosha Nature Park 100 Bled Island 438 climate 222 languages 22, 481-97, Himara 54 Golem Grad 301 costs 223 see also individual historic sites 24-5 Gospa od Škrpjela 279 food 222, 223 languages Astronomical Clock 149 Hvar Island 134-6 highlights 224 Latvia 232-47, 234 Auschwitz-Birkenau Korčula Island 136 internet resources 223 accommodation 232, Memorial & Museum Lokrum 140 233, 246 itineraries 223 321, 162 Margaret Island 201 climate 232 LGBT+ travellers 230 Civil Defence Shelter 172 New Holland 385 costs 233 opening hours 230 Cloth Hall 317, 15 St Anastasia Island 112 food 232, 233 public holidays 230 Cold War Tunnel 52 Sveti Ivan 113 highlights 234 safety 230 D-0 ARK 83 Istria 124-5 internet resources 233 telephone services 230 Diocletian’s Palace 130-1 itineraries 33-40, 33, 34, itineraries 233 travel seasons 222 Hill of Crosses 260 35, 36, 38, 39, 40, language 488 travel to/from 223, 230-1 John Lennon Wall 152-3 see also individual LGBT+ travellers 246 locations travel within 231 Majdanek 322 opening hours 246 Ivanova Korita 283 visas 230 Memento Park 201 public holidays 246-7 Kotor 12, 279-82, 280, Red Cross Concentration telephone services 247 12, 37 Camp 406 J travel seasons 232 Kraków 15, 316-22, 318, 15 Red Square 14, 363-6 Jahorina 81 travel to/from 233 accommodation 319-20 Roman Amphitheatre 103 Jajce 89 travel within 247 drinking & nightlife 320 Trinity Hill 65 Janče 299 Latvian language 488 entertainment 321 hitching 478 Jewish heritage 163 legal matters 469 food 320 Holešovice 154 Bratislava 415 Lenin’s Mausoleum 363, sights 316-17, 319 holidays 471 Jewish Culture Festival 30 366 tourist information 321 homestays 465 Krakow 319 lesbian travellers 469, see travel to/from 321-2 hostels 465-6 Łódź 315 also LGBT+ travellers travel within 322 hot springs 214, 258 Lublin 322 Levoča 424 Ksamil 53-4 hotels 466 Odesa 459 LGBT+ travellers 469 Kuldīga 243-4 Hradčany 147-8 Prague 149 Albania 58 Kuressaare 194-5 Hrodna 71-2 Vilnius 251 Bosnia & Hercegovina 89 Kutná Hora 160 Hungarian language 486-8 Vitsebsk 69 Bulgaria 114 Hungary 198-221, 200 Warsaw 311 Kyiv 452-7, 454-5 Czech Republic 174 accessible travel 219 Zamość 324 accommodation 452-3 Estonia 195 accommodation 198, Josefov 149 climate 448 Hungary 219 199, 219 Julian Alps 438-41 drinking & nightlife 456 Kosovo 230 climate 198 Juodkrantė 262 entertainment 456 Latvia 246 costs 199 Jūrmala 242-3 food 453, 456 Lithuania 262 504 LGBT+ travellers continued Nagycsarnok 208 Moldoviţa Monastery Moscow Kremlin 363, North Macedonia 307 Rīga Central Market 354 364-5 Poland 336 238-9 Noul Neamţ Monastery mosques Romania 357 mausoleums 273 Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque Russia 389 Lenin’s Mausoleum Ostrog Monastery 285 77 Serbia 408 363, 366 Our-Lady-of-the-Snow Hajji Alija Mosque 87, 2

INDEX INDEX Monastery 141 Slovakia 428 Njegoš Mausoleum 283 Mostar 19, 82-6, 84, 19 Patriarchate of Peć 228 Ukraine 461 Račić Family Mausoleum motorcycle travel 475, 141 Rila Monastery 101-2 476-8 Lithuania 248-63, 250 Mavrovo National Park Saviour Monastery of St L- mountains 25  accommodation 248,

M 298-9 Euthymius 376  249, 262 Accursed Mountains Melnik 102 Sveta Bogorodica climate 248 56-8, 17 Mezhyhirya 453 Monastery 297-8 costs 249 Carpathian Mountains Minsk 21, 63-8, 64, 21 Sveti Jovan Bigorski 324-6 food 248, 249 Monastery 298-9 accommodation 65-6 High Tatras 15, 421-4, 15 highlights 250 Sveti Naum Monastery drinking & nightlife 66 Mt Lovćen 283 internet resources 249 300 entertainment 67 Mt Tâmpa 346 itineraries 249 Sveti Pantelejmon food 66 language 488-9 Monastery 297 Mt Triglav 19, 441, 19 itineraries 63 LGBT+ travellers 262 Tipova Cave Monastery Mt Vitosha 100 medical services 67 opening hours 262 272 Mt Vodno 297 shopping 67 telephone services 262 Trinity Monastery of St Tatra Mountains 420-4, 5 sights 63-5 Sergius 377 travel seasons 248 Vogel 440 tourist offices 67 Visoki Dečani Monastery Mramor 229 travel to/from 249, 263 228 tours 65 Mt Triglav 19, 441, 19 travel within 263 Voroneţ Monastery 354 travel to/from 67 Mt Vitosha 100 Lithuanian language 488-9 money 22, 23, 466-7, travel within 67-8 Mt Vodno 297 Ljubljana 432-8, 434-5 469-70 Mir 68 Muhu 193-4 accommodation 433-5 Montenegro 276-89, 278 mobile phones 22, 472 museums & galleries 26 climate 430 accommodation 276, Moldova 264-75, 266 drinking & nightlife 436 277, 288 Aleksander Nevski accommodation 264, Crypt 95 entertainment 436-7 climate 276 265 Amber Gallery 261 food 435-6 costs 277 climate 264 Apple Museum 152 sights 432-3 food 276, 277 costs 265 Archaeological Museum tourist information 437 food 264, 265 highlights 278 (Nesebâr) 111 travel to/from 437 highlights 266 internet resources 277 Archaeological Museum travel within 437-8 internet resources 265 itineraries 277 (Sofia) 95 Łódź 315 itineraries 265 opening hours 288 Archaeological Museum Lokrum 140 opening hours 275 public holidays 289 (Sozopol) 113 Lublin 322-4 public holidays 275 telephone services 289 Archaeological Museum (Split) 131 Lviv 21, 457-9 telephone services 275 travel seasons 276 Archaeological Museum travel seasons 264 travel to/from 277, 289 (Varna) 109-10 M travel to/from 265, 275 travel within 289 monuments Archaeological Museum Macedonia, see North travel within 275 (Zadar) 127 Macedonia 290 Buzludzha 177, 176-7 visas 275 Archaeological Museum Malá Strana 152-3 monasteries & convents Freedom Monument 238 (Zagreb) 121 Malbork Castle 332, 25 Arbore Monastery 354 Sea Organ 126 Archaeological Museum Małopolska 322-4 Bachkovo Monastery Sun Salutation 126 of Macedonia 293 maps 469 105 Moravia 168-73 Archdiocesan Museum Margaret Island 201 Cave Monastery 272 Moscow 363-74, 368-9 172 Mariinsky Theatre 387 Dobrilovina Monastery accommodation 371 Army Museum markets 286 drinking & nightlife 372 (Chişinău) 267 Balti Jaama Turg 188 Dominican Monastery & entertainment 373 Arsenāls Exhibition Hall 238 Dolac Market 120 Museum 138-9 food 371-2 Art Mill 210 Halles Market 254 Franciscan Monastery & shopping 373-4 Museum 139 Art Museum Rīga Bourse Kamaroŭski Rynak 65 sights 363, 366-7, 370-1 Gračanica Monastery 235 tourist information 374 229 Auschwitz-Birkenau tours 371 Humor Monastery 354 Memorial & Museum Map Pages 000 travel to/from 374 Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra 321, 162 Photo Pages 000 452 travel within 374 Balabanov House 103 505 Baltazar Bogišić History of Odesa Jews Museum of Contem- National Museum of Collection 141 Museum 459-60 porary Art (North BiH 79 Belarusian State Art Holocaust Museum Macedonia) 293 National Museum of Museum 64-5 (Vilnius) 251 Museum of Crimes Ethnography & Natural Brewery Museum 161 House of Leaves 45 Against Humanity History (Chişinău) 267 Brukenthal Palace 351 House of Terror 203 & Genocide 1992- National Museum of 1995 77 History (Boyana) 100 Bukovac House 141 Hungarian Jewish Mu- INDEX Museum of Decorative Bunk’Art 45 seum & Archives 203 National Museum of Arts & Design 237-8 Lithuania 251-2 Bunk’Art 2 45, 177 Hungarian National Gallery 201 Museum of Genocide National Museum of Castle Museum Victims 253 Montenegro 284  M (Budapest) 201 Hungarian National Museum 203 Museum of Jewish National Museum of Castle Museum Culture 415 Slovenia 433 (Esztergom) 211 Kableshkov House 106 Museum of Kosovo 225 Old Town Hall (Toruń) Castle Museum & Tower Kadriorg Art Museum 184-5 Museum of Modern 334 (Český Krumlov) 164 Art 137 Kajtaz House 83 Onufri Museum 49-50 Christian Museum 211 Museum of New Art 193 Karaite Ethnographic Orheiul Vechi Exhibition City Museum of Museum of Railway Centre 272 Ljubljana 433 Museum 257 Technology 69 Oslekov House 106 Croatian Museum of Kaunas Picture Gallery Museum of Roses 108 Palace of the Grand Naïve Art 120 258 Museum of Socialist Dukes of Lithuania 251 Danubiana Meulensteen Klaipėda Castle Museum Art 95 Panorama of Racławice Art Museum 420 260 Museum of the 1989 326 Defence of Brest Kordopulov House 102 Revolution 355 Pharmacy History Fortress Museum 70 Kuldīga Historic Museum Museum of the Great Collection 353 Dudutki 68 244 Patriotic War 63 POLIN Museum of the Kumu 185, 27 Egon Schiele Art Museum of the Infant History of Polish Jews Centrum 165 Kunstkamera 384 Jesus of Prague 153 311, 162-3 Emin Gjiku Ethnographic Latvian National Museum of the Ninth Porta Posnania Museum 225 Museum of Art 238 Fort 258 Interactive Heritage Estonian National Lennusadam 184 Museum of War, Territory Centre 328-9 Museum 191 Lobkowicz Palace 147-8 of Peace 70 Prague City Museum 153 Estonian Open-Air Maironis Lithuanian Museum of WWII 330-1 Prague Jewish Museum Museum 184 Literary Museum 257 Museum of Yugoslavia 149 Estonian Print & Paper Marc Chagall Art Center 395, 176 Pushkin Museum of Fine Museum 191 69 Museum on Water – Bay Arts 367, 370 Ethnographic Museum Marc Chagall House of Bones 300 Red Cross Concentration (Berat) 50 Museum 69 National Archaeological Camp 406 Ethnographical Museum Maritime Museum of Museum 46 Rīga History & Naviga- (Plovdiv) 103 Montenegro 281 National Archaeology tion Museum 235 European Solidarity Marubi National Pho- & History Museum Rodošto & Mikluš Prison Centre 331-2 tography Museum 55 (Chişinău) 267 426 Former Ceauşescu Meštrović Gallery 131-2 National Art Museum Rovinj City Museum 124 Residence 341 Miodrag Dado Ðurić 341 Royal Castle 311 Fryderyk Chopin Gallery 284 National Art Museum Museum 311 Russian Museum 378-9 MK Čiurlionis National (Chişinău) 267 Rynek Underground 317 Galerija 11/07/95 77 Museum of Art 258 National Gallery of Saaremaa Museum 195 Gallery of Matica Srpska MO Museum 253 Arts 45 Sacred Art Museum 129 402-3 Montenegrin Art Gallery National Gallery of Gediminas Castle & 284 Kosovo 225 Sarafkina Kâshta 107 Museum 251 Moscow Kremlin 363, National Gallery of Sarajevo City Hall 77 Grūtas Park 258, 176 364-5 Macedonia 293 Schindler’s Factory 319 György Ráth Museum Mucha Museum 153 National History Site of Witness & Memory Museum 55 203, 205 Muhu Museum 194 Museum 45 Split City Museum 131 Hamam Museum 83 Museum Fotoateliér National Maritime Helikon Palace Museum Seidel 164-5 Museum 332 Stalin Line Museum 68 213 Museum of Broken National Memorial to State Hermitage History Museum Relationships 120 the Heroes of the Museum 16, 379, (Cetinje) 284 Museum of City History Heydrich Terror 153 380-1, 16 History Museum of 413 National Museum State Tretyakov Gallery BiH 79 Museum of Contempo- (Belgrade) 395-7 Main Branch 366 History Museum of rary Art (Belgrade) National Museum Storno House & Lithuania Minor 260 395 (Prague) 153 Collection 211 506 museums & galleries Slovenský Raj National Royal Garden 148 Porto Montenegro 281 continued Park 425-6 Sofia City Garden 96 postal services 470-1 Story of Prague Castle Tara National Park 407 VDNKh 370 Postojna 443-4 147 Trakai 256 Parnidis Dune 261 Postojna Cave 443-4 Techmania Science Triglav National Park 441 Pärnu 192-3 Poznań 328-30 Centre 161 Una National Park 88-9 passports 474 Prague 12, 147-59, 150-1, 12

INDEX INDEX Tiraspol National History Vitosha Nature Park 100 Museum 273 Pavlovsk 386 accommodation 154-5 Nesebâr 111-12 Tolerance Centre 251 Peaks of the Balkans 227 climate 144 Nevsky Prospekt 378 Toruń Gingerbread Peć 228-9 drinking & nightlife 156-7 M- Museum 334 nightlife 26-7, see also Pécs 214-15 entertainment 157-8 

R individual locations  Trakai History Museum Peja 228-9 festivals & events 154 Niš 406-8 256 Pelister National Park food 155-6 Njeguši 283 Tunnel of Hope 79 305-6 medical services 158 North Macedonia 290- University of Tartu pensions 465 sights 147-54 307, 292 Museum 191 Perast 279 tourist offices 158 accommodation 290, 291 War Childhood Museum Peterhof 386 tours 154 climate 290 79 photography 470 travel to/from 158 costs 291 War Photo Exhibition 83 Piran 445-6 travel within 158-9 War Photo Limited 137 food 290, 291 Pirita 185 Prague Castle 147, 148 Warsaw Rising Museum highlights 292 planning Prague Spring festival 154 311 internet resources 291 basics 22-3 Predjama Castle 444 Witches’ Hill 262 itineraries 291 budgeting 23 Pristina 224-7, 226 Zsolnay Cultural Quarter language 489-90 calendar of events 28-32 214 Prizren 21, 229-30, 21 LGBT+ travellers 307 family travel 466 Ў Gallery of Contempo- public holidays 471 opening hours 307 highlights 10-21 rary Art 64 Pupnat 136 public holidays 307 internet resources 23 travel seasons 290 itineraries 33-40, 33, N travel to/from 291, 307 34, 35, 36, 38, R national parks & reserves travel within 307 39, 40 rafting Belavezhskaya Pushcha North Macedonian travel seasons 22 Berat 50-1 National Park 71 language 489-90 Plitvice Lakes National Durmitor National Park Curonian Spit 261-2 Nové Město 153-4 Park 125-6 286-7 Đerdap National Park 407 Novi Pazar 403 Plovdiv 103-6, 104 Jajce 89 Durmitor National Park Novi Sad 402-5, 404 Plzeň 160-4 Konjic 83 285-8 Nyasvizh 68 Počitelj 87 Râşnov Fortress 348, 13 Galičica National Park Poland 308-37, 310 Red Square 14, 363-6 301 accommodation 308, Republic of Užupis 251 Hortobágy National O 309, 336 Rīga 14, 235-42, 236-7, 14 Park 217 Odesa 459-61 business hours 336 accommodation 239 Lahemaa National Park Ohrid 301-5, 302-3 climate 308 189-90 old towns 24 climate 232 costs 309 Lovćen National Park 283 Olomouc 171-3 drinking & nightlife 240-1 drinking 309 Marjan Forest Park 132 opening hours 470 entertainment 241 food 308, 309 Mavrovo National Park Orheiul Vechi 271-2 food 239-40 highlights 310 298-9 Otepää 190-1 sights 235, 237-9 itineraries 309 Mt Dajti National Park 45 outdoor activities 26, tourist offices 241 Pelister National Park see also individual language 490-2 tours 239 305-6 activities LGBT+ travellers 336 travel to/from 241 Plaiul Fagului (Land of money 336 travel within 241-2 Beeches) Natural Sci- public holidays 336 Rila Monastery 101-2 P entific Reserve 273 telephone services 337 Roman Forum 126 Plitvice Lakes National palaces, see castles, travel seasons 308 Romania 338-59, Park 125-6 fortresses & palaces 340 travel to/from 309, 337 accessible travel 357 Prutul de Jos (Lower Paneriai 256 Prut) Biosphere parks & gardens travel within 337 accommodation 338, Reserve 273 Gorky Park 367 POLIN Museum of the 339, 357 History of Polish Jews business hours 357-8 Grūtas Park 258, 176 311, 162-3 climate 338 Letná Gardens 154 Polish language 490-2 costs 339 Map Pages 000 Parcul Catedralei 266-7 Pomerania 330-6 drinking 339 Photo Pages 000 Petřín 153 Poprad 420-1 food 338, 339 507 highlights 340 Russia 389 Tatranská Lomnica 422 Slovenský Raj National internet resources 339 Serbia 408 Vitosha Nature Park 100 Park 425-6 itineraries 339 train travel 479-80 Vitranc Cup, Slovenia Smíchov 154 language 492-3 Ukraine 461-2 Zakopane 324 Smokovec Resort Towns 421-2 legal matters 357 Sarajevo 77-82, 78 Škocjan Caves 444-5 Smokvica 136 LGBT+ travellers 357 accommodation 79-80 Skopje 292-7, 294-5

Sobornaya Ploshchad 366 INDEX money 357, 358 drinking 80-1 accommodation 295-6 Soča Valley 442-3 public holidays 358 entertainment 80-1 activities 295 socialist art 258 safety 358 food 80 drinking & nightlife 296 -telephone services 358 medical services 81 entertainment 296-7 Sofia 95-101, 96-7  R tourist information 358 sights 77-9 festivals & events 295 accommodation 97-8  S travel seasons 338 tourist offices 81 food 296 drinking & nightlife 98-9 travel to/from 358-9 travel to/from 82 shopping 297 entertainment 99 travel within 359 travel within 82 sights 293, 295 food 98 Romanian Athenaeum 341 Saranda 53 tourist offices 297 medical services 99 Romanian language 492-3 scams 471 tours 295 sights 95-6 Rovinj 124-5 scenery 26 travel to/from 297 tourist offices 99 Rugova Valley 227 senior travellers 467 travel within 297 tours 96-7 travel to/from 99-100 ruins, see archaeological Serbia 392-409, 394 Slavyansky Bazaar 69 travel within 100-1 sites accommodation 392, Slovak language 494-5 Sopron 211-12 Russia 360-91, 362 393, 408 Slovakia 410-29, 412 Soroca 272-3 accessible travel 388 business hours 408 accommodation 410, 411 South Serbia 406-8 accommodation 360, climate 392 business hours 428 361, 388 Sozopol 113-14 costs 393 climate 410 border crossings 477 Spišské Podhradie 424-5 drinking 393 costs 411 business hours 389 food 392, 393 food 410, 411 Split 129-34, 130 climate 360 highlights 394 highlights 412 Srđ 137 costs 361 itineraries 393 internet access 428 St Anastasia Island 112 drinking 361 language 483-4 internet resources 411 St Basil’s Cathedral 366, food 360, 361 , LGBT+ travellers 408 itineraries 411 7 14 highlights 362 St Petersburg 378-88, money 408 language 494-5 internet access 388 382-3 public holidays 408 LGBT+ travellers 428 itineraries 361 accommodation 385 safety 408 money 428 language 493-4 drinking & nightlife 387 telephone services 409 public holidays 428-9 legal matters 388 entertainment 387 travel seasons 392 telephone services 429 LGBT+ travellers 389 food 385-7 travel to/from 393, 409 tourist information 429 money 389 sights 378-9, 384-5 travel within 409 travel seasons 410 public holidays 389 tourist information 483-4 travel to/from 411, 429 safety 389 387-8 Sergiev Posad 377-8 travel within 429 telephone services 389 travel to/from 374, 388 Shipka 108 Slovene language 495-6 travel within 388 time 389 Shkodra 54-6 Slovenia 430-47, 432 Staré Město 148-9, 152 toilets 389 Šibenik 128 accommodation 430, Stari Most 83 tourist information 390 Sibiu 350-2 431, 446 State Hermitage Museum travel seasons 360 Sighişoara 349-50 business hours 446 16, 379, 380-1, 16 travel to/from 361, Sigulda 245-6 climate 430 374, 390 Štrbské Pleso 423-4 Silesia 326-8 costs 431 travel within 390-1 Subotica 403 skiing food 430, 431 visas 390 Suzdal 376-7 Bjelašnica 81 highlights 432 Russian language 493-4 Sveti Ivan 113 Bovec 442 itineraries 431 Russian Museum 378-9 swimming 201, 420 Durmitor National Park language 495-6 synagogues 163 287 money 446 Choral Synagogue 251 Jahorina 81 public holidays 446-7 S Great Synagogue Lake Bled 438 Saaremaa 194-5 telephone services 447 (Bucharest) 341 Mavrovo National Park safety 471-2 travel seasons 430 Great Synagogue 298 Bosnia & Hercegovina 90 travel to/from 431, 447 (Budapest) 203, 162 Otepää 190 hitching 478 travel within 447 Old-New Synagogue 149 Rugova Valley 227 Kosovo 230 Slovenian Karst & Coast Synagogue in the Romania 358 Soča Valley 442 443-6 Fortress 355 508 Szeged 216-17 toilets 472-3 telephone services 462 food 314 Szentendre 210 Tokaj 218 travel seasons 448 sights 311-12 travel to/from 449, 462 tourist information 315 Ostrusha 108 travel within 457, 462 travel to/from 315-16 T Shushmanets Tomb 108 visas 462 travel within 316 Tallinn 18, 181-9, 182-3, 18 Thracian Tomb of Ukrainian language 496-7 water 468 accommodation 185-6 INDEX INDEX Kazanlâk 108 Ulcinj 282-3 waterfalls activities 185 Toompea 181 Una River Valley 88-9 Boka Waterfall 442 drinking & nightlife 188 Toruń 334-6 Kravica Waterfall 86 food 186-8 S- tourist information 473, Milančev Buk 89  shopping 188 Z V  see also individual Savica Waterfall 440 sights 181-5 locations vacations 471 Štrbački Buk 89 tourist offices 188 train travel 475, 479-80 vaccinations 467 Ventas Rumba 244 tours 185 Trakai 256-7 Valbona 56-7 Wawel Royal Castle 316-17 travel to/from 188-9 Transdniestr 273-5 Valley of the Beautiful weather 22 travel within 189 Transylvania 13, 346-55 Women 218 websites 23 Tara Canyon 285-6 travel seasons 464, Varna 109-11 Wielkopolska 328-30 Tara National Park 407 see also individual Veliko Târnovo 107-9 wineries Tartu 191-2 locations Ventspils 244-5 Melnik 102 Tatra Mountains 420-4, 5 travel to/from Eastern Vevčani 300 Europe 474-5 Mileştii Mici 270, Tatranská Lomnica 422-3 Vilnius 250-6, 252 20 travel within Eastern Moldova 20, 270 Telč 168 accommodation 254 Europe 23, 475-80 Tikveš 304 telephone services 472 drinking & nightlife 255 Trebinje 87-8 Tokaj 218 Telliskivi Creative City 184 entertainment 255 trekking, see hiking Tokaj Macik 427 theft 472 food 254-5 Triglav National Park 441 Valley of the Beautiful Theth 57-8, medical services 255 17 Trogir 128-9 Women 218 Thrace 105 sights 251-3 Tsarskoe Selo 386 women travellers 473 tick-borne encephalitis tourist offices 255 work 473 263 travel to/from 255-6 Wrocław 326-8 Tihany 215 U travel within 256 Tikveš 304 Ukraine 448-62, 450-1 visas 22, 473 time 22, 472 accommodation 448, Visegrád 210-11 Z Timișoara 355-7 449, 461 Vitosha Nature Park 100 Zadar 126-8 Tipova 272 business hours 461 Vitsebsk 69 Zagreb 120-4, 122 tipping 336, 358, 470 climate 448 Vladimir 375-6 accommodation 121 Tirana 45-9, 47 costs 449 Vlkolínec 420 drinking 123 accommodation 46 drinking 449 Vojvodina 402-5 entertainment 123 drinking & nightlife 48 food 448, 449 Vršič Pass 19, 442 food 121 food 46, 48 highlights 450 Vyšehrad 154 medical services 123 sights 45-6 internet access 461 sights 120-1 itineraries 449 tourist offices 48 W tourist offices 123 language 496-7 travel to/from 123 tours 46 Warsaw 310-16, 312 legal matters 461 travel to/from 48-9 accommodation 313-14 travel within 123-4 LGBT+ travellers 461 travel within 49 climate 308 Zakopane 324-6 money 461 Tiraspol 273-5, 2 drinking & nightlife 314 ziplining 287 public holidays 461 Tivat 281 entertainment 314-15 zoos 184 safety 461-2

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 509

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Neil Wilson Poland Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.

Anthony Ham Croatia, Slovenia Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and the US.

Jessica Lee Croatia, Slovenia In 2011 Jessica swapped a career as an adventure-tour leader for travel writing and since then her travels for Lonely Planet have taken her across Africa, the Middle East and Asia. She has lived in the Middle East since 2007 and tweets @jessofarabia. Jess has contributed to Lonely Planet’s Egypt, Turkey, Cyprus, Morocco, Marrakesh, Middle East, Europe, Africa, Cambodia, and Vietnam guidebooks and her travel writing has appeared in Wanderlust maga- zine, the Daily Telegraph, the Independent, BBC Travel and Lonelyplanet.com.

Kevin Raub Serbia Atlanta native Kevin Raub started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written more than 70 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the US and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad). Peter Dragicevich Bosnia & Hercegovina, Croatia, Montenegro After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of coun- tries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand, his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

Steve Fallon Hungary A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown University with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master’s degree in journalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media companies and run- ning his own travel bookshop. Steve lived in Budapest for three years before mov- ing to London in 1994. He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified London Blue Badge Tourist Guide. Visit his website on www.steveslondon.com.

Anita Isalska Lithuania, Slovakia Anita Isalska is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter. After several merry years as a staff writer and editor – a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between San Francisco, the UK and any Baltic bolthole with good wi-fi. Anita specialises in Eastern and Cen- tral Europe, Southeast Asia, France and off-beat travel. Read her stuff on www. anitaisalska.com.

Vesna Maric North Macedonia Vesna has been a Lonely Planet author for nearly two decades, covering places as far and wide as Bolivia, Algeria, Sicily, Cyprus, Barcelona, London and Croatia, among others. Her latest work has been updating Florida, Greece and North Macedonia.

MaSovaida Morgan Estonia, Latvia MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven continents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Leonid Ragozin Russia, Ukraine Leonid Ragozin studied beach dynamics at Moscow State University, but for want of decent beaches in Russia, he switched to journalism and spent 12 years voyaging through different parts of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a foreign correspondent for Newsweek Russia. Leonid is currently a freelance journalist focusing largely on the conflict between Russia and Ukraine (both his Lonely Planet destinations), which prompted him to leave Moscow and find a new home in Rīga.

Brana Vladisavljevic Serbia Brana grew up in the former Yugoslavia and studied foreign languages and literature in Belgrade. She joined Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office in 2004 and has lost count of the phrasebook and guidebook titles she edited over the years. From 2014 to 2019, she was based in the London office as the Destination Editor for Eastern and Southeastern Europe. Brana looked after destinations stretching from the Russian Far East to the Greek islands but has a soft spot for her native Western Balkans region. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Mark Baker Bulgaria, Czech Republic, Romania, Slovenia Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other lead- ing travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for The Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter (@markbakerprague), and read his blog: www. markbakerprague.com. Mark also contributed to the Plan and Survival Guide chapters.

Greg Bloom Belarus, Moldova Greg is a freelance writer, editor, tour guide and travel planner based out of Manila and Anilao, Philippines. Greg began his writing career in the late ’90s in Ukraine, working as a journalist and later editor-in-chief of the Kyiv Post, an English-language weekly. As a freelance travel writer, he has con- tributed to some 40 Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Eastern Europe and Asia. In addition to writing, he organises customised adventure tours in north Palawan and north Luzon (Philippines). Greg’s travel articles have been published in the Sydney Morning Herald, the South China Morning Post, BBC.com and the Toronto Globe and Mail, among many other publications. Accounts of his Lonely Planet trips over the years are at www.mytripjournal. com/bloomblogs.

Stuart Butler Albania, Kosovo Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Congolese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. Oh, and he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. When not on the road for Lonely Planet he lives on the beautiful beaches of Southwest France with his wife and two young children. He also works as a photographer and was a finalist in both the 2015 and 2016 Travel Photographer of the Year Awards. In 2015 he walked for six weeks with a Maasai friend across part of Kenya’s Maasai lands in order to gather material for a book he is writing (see www.walkingwiththemaasai.com). His web- site is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 15th edition – October 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 370 4 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’