Aglooka Advisor Winter 2019 Issue No. 9

1 Aglooka Advisor

Winter 2019 Issue No.9

President’s Report page 4

From the Orcadian Archives 24th July 1869 page 6

Charles Dickens and John Rae: article by Eric Summers page 7

Corporate member: Birsay Energy page 11

A Feast of Forage at the Orkney Science Festival: article by Sigrid Appleby page 12 Why do people join the John Rae Society? page 14

Corporate member: Stockans Oatcakes page 15

Memories of Gjoa Haven: by Pat Garwasiuk page 16

Hall of Clestrain: archival training report article by Dr Sarah-Jane Gibbon page 17

John Rae September weekend page 20

Volunteers needed page 21

Co-op cheque for the John Rae Society page 22

Corporate member: Skara Books page 22

John Rae Birthday Draw page 23

Corporate member: Kristin Linklater Voice Centre page 24

Corporate member: Adventure Canada page 25

Corporate member: RICS page 26

Membership update page 27

Forthcoming events page 27

Photo on front cover by James Grieve

2 Patrons

Dr Peter St John, The Earl of Orkney

Ken McGoogan, Author

Ray Mears, Author & TV Presenter

Bill Spence, Lord Lieutenant of Orkney

Sir Michael Palin

Magnus Linklater OBE

Board of Trustees

(in alphabetical order by surname)

Andrew Appleby — Jim Chalmers — Anna Elmy — Neil Kermode — Fiona Lettice— Mark Newton — Norman Shearer

Committee

President — Andrew Appleby

Chairman — Norman Shearer

Honorary Secretary — Anna Elmy

Honorary Treasurer — Fiona Lettice

Webmaster and Social Media — Mark Newton

Membership Secretary — Fiona Gould

Registered Office

The John Rae Society

7 Church Road, Stromness, Orkney KW16 3BA

Tel: 01856 851414

e-mail: [email protected]

Newsletter Editor — Fiona Gould

The views expressed in this newsletter are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the Editor or the Board of Trustees of the John Rae Society 3 President’s Report Perspex. This repulsed the pervading pigeons, and the I am delighted that we had Casey Gang cleared the final several very successful open ordure produced by these days. These were kindly held perching avians. in Ivan and Jean’s garage: our stalwart visitors welcomed The Hall is now drying out and refreshments during oft-Arctic considered saved. Had the roof conditions. A goodly pro- blown away in the winter portion of these joined the storms, which was most likely, society. we would have lost the floors and much valuable detail. I It was our distinct aim to raise consider the works to have the remaining sum of around been completed just in time! £12,000 to complete payment for The Hall of Clestrain. With The Co-Op shops in Orkney raffles, the John Rae Birthday adopted The John Rae Society Lottery and kind donations this as one of their worthy causes sum was almost reached. for this year. (See separate report later in this newsletter.) A very generous Texan gentleman, Bill Miller, secured March saw the commencement the purchase at the last minute of the Arctic Return expedition. with a donation of £9,500. This This was an amazing feat of gave us over and above our endurance by the four needs. The final sum was explorers. Sadly, two had to presented to Ivan and Jean withdraw from the expedition Cragie at the draw of the some way through. We are so Lottery, thus securing the grateful to Garry Tutte and property to JRS. Frank Wolfe, who didn’t make it, for their bravery. David The approaching winter storms Reid, leader and Richard Smith threatened. Paddy Casey, of completed the expedition that Casey Construction, agreed to followed the route that John step in and secure the roof, Rae took when he learned the stop the constant leaks and fate of the Franklin Expedition cover the windows with clear and also discovered the final

4 link in the North West so well for us. On open days Passage. Please go to we can supply teas and cakes www.arcticreturn.com for the and have retail space. We are full update. immensely grateful to Ivan and Jean for the use of their Corporate Membership. garage in our earlier stages. Minimum £500 fee, then £100.00 per year. This has Dr. Barbara Rae R.A. gave us now been taken up firstly by an Inuit model kayak, which Adventure Canada, then RICS, actually formed part of John Birsay Energy Trust, Kristin Rae’s personal collection. This Linklater Voice Centre, is displayed in our showcase of Skarabooks and Stockan’s other Inuit artefacts. Oatcakes. We are actively JRS is delighted to announce seeking further corporate that we have engaged a members. Project Manager. Sandra The Cuminga Trust has Deans has been appointed to generously supported our this post. She has been fully archaeological activities. They engaged in researching and are very impressed with the applying for grant aid to make high standard of the our projects entirely success- interesting work we carried ful. out. They have promised to Visitor figures have increased continue funding us. The latest time on time on our open days, was an archive day, where we proving the popularity and discovered the completion support that JRS has for its details of The Hall of Clestrain ambitions. All of these visitors on 13th September 1769. This applaud our aims to create The being so, we began planning a John Rae International Arctic celebration to mark the Centre, which could become occasion. The Gateway to The Arctic. In May we purchased a The Orkney Science Festival portacabin to use as a promoted a John Rae Week- temporary Visitor Centre. end. A tremendous foraged Casey Construction realized dinner produced by inter- the inadequacy of it and lent us nationally renowned chefs a far superior cabin for as long made an admirable repast at as we need it. This has worked 5 The Orphir Community Centre. taken with cardiac arrest late Sam Britten of Orkney Craft in September. At his memorial Vinegar led the policy of service £1,475 was raised for natural foods. Reflecting what the John Rae Society. This was was available in Orkney’s sad and sudden news. If Neolithic and in John Rae’s anyone would like to add to time, an amazing and that sum in his memory, then memorable evening was the please do. Our thoughts are grand result. JRS had a very with Anne. profitable raffle and Highland Andrew Appleby. President Park served special whisky at John Rae Society the event. The following afternoon a programme of *** Arctic and Foraging talks were presented. Maria Pia Casarini From The Orcadian spoke of Sir John Franklin’s Archives sad exploits. In the interval Saturday, July 24, 1869 she cut The Hall of Clestrain’s ANOTHER ORKNEY PRIZE 250th birthday cake. Baked by WINNER AT WIMBLEDON — Harray Stores, this was a most We are glad to be able to welcome occasion. announce that Dr Rae has Jane Hamilton has given us a carried off two valuable prizes special Inuit-made covered at Wimbledon, namely £25 for bowl from shiny black the greater number of mudstone. Being fragile, it is cartoons (67) at 200 yards damaged. We intend having it with the Enfield rifle: also the professionally restored for our 1st Anglo-Belgian prize at £25 permanent collection. with a score of 35 points at 200 and 500 yards, five shots at A sincere thank you to our each range. amazing volunteers for their tremendous help. I would like *** to mention the young Duncan Last year Eric Summers, a JRS McNeish whose youthful skills member and editor of Little Doric, make our laptop till work so the newsletter of the Aberdeen branch efficiently. of the Dickens Fellowship, asked us for an article about the John Rae Society, Finally, I wish to record that which we supplied. He has reciprocated with the following article we lost Ian McIntyre. He was about Dickens and John Rae. (Editor) 6 Charles Dickens & John Rae minedly filling every un- forgiving minute. Along with Perhaps it is a little bold for a much of Victorian Britain he member of the Dickens was fascinated by the polar Fellowship to submit an article regions and with his close for the John Rae’s Society’s friend Wilkie Collins wrote, journal. For many Charles produced and acted in a highly Dickens is something of a successful Arctic drama called villain in the John Rae story. The Frozen Deep. It was while As a great admirer of both this play was being performed men, however, I do believe in Manchester that he first that the dispute between them encountered and fell passion- has been exaggerated and ately in love with Ellen Ternan, should not be allowed to a young actress more than distort the picture we have of twenty years his junior. This both. was in 1857 and it led

eventually to the break-up of Charles Dickens is a writer his marriage in 1858. Arctic closely associated with exploration had many London, but in fact he had casualties. strong Scottish connections.

His wife was Scottish, his first A few years earlier Dickens’s newspaper employer was interest in the poles had taken Scottish, his first major the form of a meeting with reporting assignment was to another attractive and still Edinburgh, he was a great relatively young lady. It was admirer of Sir Walter Scott , he in November 1854 that he was knew his Burns and quoted invited to the home of Lady him in his novels and he was Franklin. She was distressed fond of whisky calling one by John Rae’s recently particularly fine bottle ‘Mary published report on the Morrison’, another Burns disappearance of her husband, allusion. Sir John, on his expedition to

find the North-West Passage. Dickens led a singularly Rae had visited her but had energetic life having a huge been rebuffed. She main- range of interests, deter- 7 tained that he should never important to go back to the have written that everyone original articles that appeared was dead and that there had in Household Words. been a resort to cannibalism and she would not listen to his On Saturday December 3rd defence that he had only 1854 Dickens wrote about ‘The recorded what he had been Lost Arctic Voyages’ in an told and that his report had article which he continued a been for the Admiralty. It had week later. Reading it one is not been his choice to have it shocked by the violently racist in the public domain. language directed at the ‘esquimaux’ and the naivety in She could not be appeased and believing that ‘Englishmen’ was now recruiting the most were incapable of the sordid famous novelist in the world, behaviour ascribed to them by who was also editing a weekly Rae. Sadly Dickens’s racial journal Household Words, to attitudes would have been mount a defence of her shared by the majority of the husband’s honour. British public at the time - we are all prisoners of the times in Dickens was intrigued and had which we live - but ironically his secretary order up naivety is his main charge newspaper cuttings on the against Rae who, Dickens story. He was persuaded that wrote, should not have Rae had got it wrong and believed what he was told by decided to pick up his ‘savages’. formidable pen in support of Lady Franklin’s case. Many But note that Dickens does not John Rae supporters have criticise Rae for reporting what been appalled by the he had been told or for destruction of Rae’s reputation hurrying home with his news. that followed and have found it Indeed he says Rae was right difficult to forgive Dickens. to do so. It was the Admiralty, he argues, that was wrong to But is this fair? To assess what release Rae’s report. Dickens really did, it is

8 Important too is the fact that That my opinions remain Dickens gave Rae a right of exactly the same as they were reply, which he did in a when my report to the powerful article published on Admiralty was written, may be 23rd December. At the start inferred from all I have now Rae comes across as rather stated. That twenty or twenty- intimidated by Dickens’s five Esquimaux could, for two reputation as a writer: months together, continue to repeat the same story without I am aware of the difficulties I variation in any material point, have to encounter in replying and adhere firmly to it, in spite to the article on the ‘Lost Arctic of all sorts of cross- Voyagers.’ That the author of questioning, is to me the that article is a writer of very clearest proof that the great ability and practice, and information they gave me was that he makes the best use of founded on fact. That the both to prove his opinions, is ‘white men’ were not very evident…To oppose this, I murdered by the natives, but have nothing but a small that they died of starvation, is, amount of practical knowledge to my mind, equally beyond a of the question at issue, with a doubt. few facts to support my views and opinions; but, I can only Writing from Stromness, and throw them together in a very certainly an angry man, Rae imperfect and unconnected also had his say about form, as I have little Franklin’s sailors who, Dickens experience in writing… had claimed, knew how to behave like gentlemen: As is evident, Rae need not have been so modest. He Much stress is laid on the writes very well and to his moral character and the credit takes not one backward admirable discipline of the step from what he believed to crews of Sir John Franklin’s have happened to the Franklin ships. What their state of expedition: discipline may have been I cannot say, but their conduct

9 at the very last British port At the end of 1854, in spite of they entered (Stromness) was protests from Lady Franklin, not such as to make those who the Admiralty called off the knew it consider them very search for Franklin. The deserving of the high eulogium Crimean War was now a big passed upon them in distraction. What is also Household Words. forgotten is that Rae did receive his reward money, of At the end of his piece, which he gave £2000.00 to his however, Rae is generous in men. This was in June 1856. thanking Dickens for letting That was only two years after him defend himself in his report. Was that an Dickens’s own journal: excessively long time to wait? Surely it was prudent not to In conclusion, let me remark, hand over immediately a large that I fully appreciate the kind, sum of money without courteous, and flattering checking on the veracity of the manner in which my name is claim. mentioned by the writer on the subject of the lost Arctic What Rae did not get was Voyagers. proper recognition - a knighthood and a statue - and Dickens of course was that may have been less to do unpersuaded that he had got it with Dickens and more to do wrong, and in that regard Rae with Rae himself being seen as was just one of many who not behaving as an English failed to change the great gentleman should. Unlike author’s mind on a range of Franklin, he had gone native in issues. the Arctic, and had left his piano at home! So, the two were in dispute but had rather more mutual It is unfortunate that Charles respect on display than is Dickens and John Rae, to the generally acknowledged. And best of our knowledge, never did Dickens’s intervention met. They shared a love of really change anything? literature, an obsession with

10 the Arctic regions and tremendous physical energy. They might well have got on rather well. But if the fact is that they remained distant from each other, then perhaps in 2019, as the 150th anniversary of Dickens’s death cover huge distances in Arctic approaches (2020), as John conditions, coupled with his Rae ’s achievements are ability to live off the land which increasingly recognised by a made him an infinitely better wider public, and as we have and more successful explorer the tantalising prospect of than his forbears. their respective homes — We think to restore the Hall of Gad’s Hill in Kent and Clestrain Clestrain and combine it with Hall in Orkney — being one day an exhibition of John Rae’s life opened to visitors, perhaps we will be an unusual and unique should set aside the tourist attraction which will regrettable dispute that arose draw in visitors from all over between them and focus on the world, especially Canada. the astonishing achievements This is the type of tourism of these two towering figures Orkney needs. This is why we of the nineteenth century. took up Corporate membership.

Eric Summers Birsay Energy is an all Orcadian owned company set Secretary, Aberdeen Branch up in 2009 to take advantage of the Dickens Fellowship of one of Orkney’s biggest

assets, wind, to generate *** electricity using a wind energy Corporate Member: Birsay converter. Energy We want to support Orkney We have a deep respect and enterprise, which is what we admiration for John Rae have done in this instance. because of his stamina and endurance enabling him to David Wallace

*** 11 A Feast of Forage : at the following: Starter: Orkney Orkney Science Festival scallops with lentil miso, radish, turnip, elderberry, capers and pepper dulce. One of the threads weaving through this year’s Orkney International Science Festival Main course: Shin of Beef or was the theme of Foraging. was it auroch? With neap, onion, barley, bone marrow and garlic. The vegetables The Neolithic Feast held in were from Wheems Organic Orphir Community Hall on Farm, South Ronaldsay and 6thSeptember was organized the meat from Craigie’s and presented to us by Andrew Butcher. Appleby, President of the JRS and Chef Sam Britten, with, as the programme stated ‘a menu of Orkney Fare that’s been foraged, fished, hunted and grown’.

There was seating for over 100 people and the hall was full of expectant ticket holders who arrived in good time. The tables were laid out with Andrew’s specially-made Photo by Dr Maria Pia Casarini wood-fired pottery. There were 5 items for each person, Pudding: caramelized Orkney so it was a great amount of cream with Meadowsweet pottery that after the firing had vinegar (produced by the been treated with beeswax Orkney Craft Vinegar and given a polish. They Company, which is now Sam’s looked and felt just right. The successful business) decorated tables were covered with with toasted oats sprinkled on butter muslin and decorated top. with wild flowers. Cutlery made from wood, though There was also plenty of modern looking, also felt right. Sourdough bread, served in brown paper bags, made by Chef Sam certainly knows how Eviedale Bakery and the chef’s to make the most of available handmade butter. This ingredients and produced the brought back memories of 12 Auntie Bridie’s home-churned Sam Britten giving a talk between butter. Strong, salty, proper courses butter!

All helped along the way by Sam’s Honey Mead made with Orkney honey and ‘chasers’ of Highland Park’s new Valfather whisky. Jugs of cold water flavoured with mint and cucumber accompanied the meal. Photo by JohnPeterWelburn ABIPP

Several of the fellow diners much indigestion. Do we gathered some of the actually develop a natural marrowbones and intended to lactose intolerance which we make something with them. then ignore? Steve Webster Maybe the ancients did similar was presenting these ideas. things? A bone from a feast, taken home and placed as a A Feast would not be complete memory to give good luck. without music and the whole event was accompanied by Between courses various folk Kate Fletcher, Corwen Broch who were giving talks during and David Griffith, all dressed the Science Festival spoke to in home-spun textiles and us of Foraging and Making, home- sewn soft leather, using the Old Ways to survive; playing on a variety of of Neolithic feasts previously instruments made from all attended (in present time and sorts! of how, even in Mesolithic times, humans might sometimes have over-used the resources available to them and of the natural lactose of mammals. Think about it — mammals start living off milk, then they are weaned, and yet humans continue to drink milk and wonder why they get so Photo by Dr Maria Pia Casarini 13 Cows’ horn, cows’ head, ancient folk, and a feast such jawbone, a huge shell, scallop as this one in Orphir can help shells (turn them round and to give a person of today a rub the corrugated sides taste of those past times. together and you get the sound of castanets. Sigrid Appleby: an edited and embellished version of an And finally, not forgetting the account in Orkney News by John Rae Society’s involve- Bernie Bell. ment in putting this event together, to round off the *** evening, Hugh Halcro- Johnston proposed a toast, in Why do people join the Highland Park whisky, in John Rae Society? Highland Park glasses, to the 250th anniversary of the Sometimes when people take out building of the Hall of membership ‘out of the blue’ I ask Clestrain, which was originally them why they decided to join. Two built for the Honeyman family. recent members kindly replied and have given me permission to quote This was very fitting, as Mr them. Here is an extract from Neil Halcro-Johnston is a descend- Ferguson’s response.(Editor) ant of the Honeyman family. My interest in John Rae was Attending such an event as kindled a number of years ago this can encourage people to by reading George Mackay learn about, then get out and Brown’s collections of his about collecting the wild weekly pieces in “The goodies which abound, then Orcadian” and by visiting the use those ingredients Stromness museum when in imaginatively to produce Orkney on holiday. A visit to healthy, fresh, interesting and the book shop in the Skara economical meals. It can also Brae visitor centre led to the take us back in time to when discovery of “Fatal Passage” that kind of foraging will have and I suppose it all been a vital addition to other mushroomed from there. Rae foodstuff available. They also is still my main interest in used herbs and salt to terms of Arctic exploration preserve food for winter and and that led to an interest in leaner times. In his Skara the Franklin expedition of books Andrew describes with 1845 and the ramifications of relish the feastings of the that. It has also led to an

14 interest in Arctic exploration behold I came across you. Of in general and in the search course I just had to join! for the Northwest Passage in particular. Membership Secretary My imagination was kindled by reading of Ken McGoogan’s *** journey from Gjoa Haven to the site on Boothia Peninsula where John Rae first saw that Corporate Member: the strait remained free of ice Stockan’s Oatcakes Ltd for part of the year and that King William Island was an island and not part of Boothia Peninsula. (As a result Neil booked a place on a Hurtigruten cruise this August so as to be able to stand on the same place Rae did when he identified the last ‘missing piece’ of the puzzle of the North-West passage.)

***

Nick Collis Bird wrote: John Rae was a renowned Orcadian who accomplished You ask what prompted me to great things in the mapping of join the JRS? I’ve always been the northern territories of interested in Polar exploration. Canada. By integrating with In fact Edward Adrian Wilson the native people and copying was a relative of mine, and their methods he made was with Scott’s expedition remarkable journeys in a where he died in 1912. hugely inhospitable climate.

Franklin was a hero to me until I read Fatal Passage by Ken Stockan’s Oatcakes are packed McCoogan. I’d never even full of nutritious wholegrain heard of John Rae. I thought oats, linked to numerous ‘There really ought to be a health benefits. As a high- society to promote this fibre, low GI grain, oats work amazing man’ and lo and to slow digestion and keep you feeling fuller for longer. 15 It wouldn’t be at all surprising on the land, sitting in if John Rae’s prodigious feats qamutiks being pulled by were fuelled by a diet high in snowmobiles, which was oats (if not oatcakes…..). pretty cold as they were there at the beginning of May. They Stewart Crichton slept in tents and were eating arctic char (which they fished Memories of Gjoa Haven for) and caribou. They were

With keen interest I followed the blogs from Arctic Return to Gjoa Haven and must congratulate the team members who completed the route John Rae took, especially David and Richard who really had to battle the elements. I was sorry that Frank and Garry could not complete the trip. I offered seal, but declined! was pleased that when they There are really good carvers arrived in Edmonton on the in Ghoa Haven and everyone way home, someone had put came back with some. up a sign saying ‘Arctic Return was here!’ That was a rather long time ago, as my daughter is now 54 Ghoa Haven has a special years old! meaning to me. When my daughter was in grade 9 (about 16 yrs old ) her school Pat Garwasiuk arranged for a few pupils to go on an Arctic exchange into *** Ghoa Haven . One of the Inuit girls stayed with us and all of The following article, by Dr Sarah Jane the other pupils stayed at Gibbon was accompanied by a list of other places in Edmonton. We the information found on the Archive Day incorporated into a timeline for took them horseback riding the Hall of Clestrain, as well as a and to the mountains where detailed report of work carried out by there are lots of trees! On the Orkney Research centre for their return to Ghoa Haven our Archaeology (ORCA)at Clestrain. Sadly children stayed with Inuit we do not have the space to print them families. They were taken out here but you will find them on the JRS website. Editor 16 Hall of Clestrain

Archival Training Workshop

Summary Report Dr Sarah Jane Gibbon

Figure 2: Some of the 17 workshop attendees (ORCA)

The workshop was attended by 17 individuals all keen to help research the Hall of Clestrain. Due to the nature of the workshop, two ORCA staff Figure 1: Newhouse, Stenness Screenshot from CANMORE were present to give those in attendance personal guidance An Archival Training Workshop with their research. Attendees’ was held in the Orkney Archive interests ranged from a on Saturday 27th April 2019. general desire to learning The training was specifically more about the Hall of tailored to be a hands-on Clestrain to researching introduction to researching specific time periods within the rural buildings and properties property’s history. and in particular the Hall of Clestrain.

Special thanks are extended to the Orkney Archive staff who supported this workshop. Figure 3: Excerpt from Dundas map of Barony, 1760 (OA:D8/W/20)

The day began with Sarah Jane introducing the team, the plan for the workshop and the user 17 rules of the archive search catalogue. Archive maps and room and Orkney Room (local charts, statutory sources, studies collection). relevant private gifts and deposits and the value of these various evidence types were outlined using rural Orkney examples, before some interesting unexpected finds which can shed light on property history were discussed. Sarah Jane had made a preparatory search of ‘Clestrain’ items in the archive catalogue which was offered Figure 4: Inspection of archive sources relating to the out as a printout and a Hall of Clestrain (ORCA) research starting point for the remainder of the day (and any After this Sarah Jane gave a future visits any of the thirty-minute introductory participants wish to make). presentation on rural-property archive resources. This presentation introduced the relevant online materials and explained the rationale behind Orkney’s omission from some of the key National sources (i.e. not part of Mainland Scotland). After looking at online sources, map regression as a useful initial research skill was outlined and demon- Figure 5: Hall of Clestrain by strated using rural examples Tom Kent courtesy of Orkney (Figure 1 & Figure 3). Library and Archive Following on from this, the After the presentation and an Orkney Archive catalogue was opportunity for questions, the introduced. The various ways attendees were shown a range in which to access and search of Hall of Clestrain specific it were shown and tips given archive and published on how to best use the 18 resources that had been aim of combining the looked out in advance (Figure information to create a 4). These included some plans timeline for the property with of buildings on the Clestrain respect to the estate on which estate; First Edition OS maps it is built. (Figure 1); census returns; sasines; archive photographs from early 1900s; Sheriff Court Records; published books featuring Clestrain and two maps showing the lands of Clestrain. People were shown how to access and navigate the National Monuments of Scotland Database – canmore – through the pastmap portal, how to access the National Figure 7: D15/7/10 Receipt Library of Scotland Maps for march fence website, how to undertake The aim of the workshop was geo-referenced searches and to prepare the attendees for where to find the Ordnance undertaking rural property Survey Namebooks whilst research with specific others were shown how to use attention to the Hall of the Archive catalogue. Clestrain and to encourage and enable people to undertake their own research in the Orkney Archive. The workshop achieved this and more, with several of the attendees

determined to return to Figure 6: An excellent turn continue their research having out gained confidence from the training offered.

Sarah Jane and Andy worked alongside the participants to explore aspects of the history of the Hall of Clestrain with the 19 John Rae September members’ names was bought Weekend for the Society and other items from them certainly bolstered This year, because of the our funds. The evening was a 250th Anniversary of The Hall sparkling success with over of Clestrain, we decided to £3,000 raised. Highland Park have a further celebration to donated a star auction prize of mark it. The planned visit of their Ambassador’s Whisky Fiona Hyslop, Scottish Boxed Display. Good results Secretary for the Arts and were attained in the bidding, Culture happened to coincide especially, I might add, The with our arrangements. Her John Rae Pineapple, which cause was to launch the reached £55.00 from one of Scottish Government’s Arctic the Secretary of State’s lucky Policy document on Monday entourage! Fiona Hyslop was 23rd September. Invited to this presented with silver earrings were David Reid and Richard and a pendant from Sheila Smith of Arctic Return. They Fleet’s new Arctic Stream gave a presentation at the range of jewellery. Billy Jolly event supporting the and Andy Cant played for us. announcement at the new Harvey Johnston gave us a Conference Centre on the new rousing speech: great fun Heriot Watt University, was had by all. Stromness. Following the Scottish On the Saturday before we had Government’s announcement an open day, which was the about the Arctic, David Reid best ever attended. On the and Richard Smith presented a Sunday evening we hosted a riveting and humorous talk at Charity Auction for JRS at The The Orkney Theatre about Orkney Distillery in Kirkwall. their expedition. The Maureen Guests of honour were David Findlay Dancers opened the Reid and Richard Smith. They evening with a beautiful were very happy to talk to performance of The John Rae members of their expedition Reel. The school children who and experiences. Special created the winning flag mementos of their amazing designs for Arctic Return trek were offered as auction waved the explorers on to the prizes too. A splendid framed stage. They presented David map was fiercely competed Reid and Richard Smith with for. A flag with the expedition Honorary Life Membership scrolls at the end of their 20 presentation. Highland Park This was an amazing weekend provided whisky tastings and supported by visitors from we served Arctic Roll and Canada, America, France and Pineapple juice. all over the UK. Hopefully we can continue the momentum The Maureen Findlay dancers of what we have here, performing the John Rae reel particularly in the schools. JRS members of the future are there.

Andrew Appleby

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Photo by JohnPeterWelburn ABIPP More Volunteers Please!

The evening again was a great We have some stalwart success. After and before their volunteers but could always do presentations David and with more! We understand Richard answered so many people may not be able to questions from an intrigued commit large amounts of time public. but if you could see your way to giving us a couple of hours The Arctic team were only too now and then, please contact happy to go to Stromness us (771419 or e-mail Primary School, St Margaret’s [email protected] Hope Primary and Papdale. We would specifically The youngsters were so appreciate help with attentive and keen on the  Manning stalls at shows whole subject of the Arctic and and open days some already had a deep  Assisting guides at the knowledge of John Rae and his Hall of Clestrain life. A most popular subject  Preparing and serving was that of narwhals. Question refreshments after question on them came  Small clerical tasks from each school. Such is the  Putting up posters etc. enthusiasm for John Rae and his Arctic within the schools The Board of Trustees would that another visit from them also welcome people who would be most welcome in the might like to join them, as future. numbers are small. 21 Co-op Cheque for the John throughout the Hall’s Rae Society renovation, as well as providing a warm place to meet.

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Corporate Member: Skarabooks

Being President of The John Rae Society, I firmly believe in its aims and objectives. From Photo by JohnPeter Welburn ABIPP experience I have come to realise that our Dr. John Orkney Community Co- operative presented rep- resentatives from the John Rae Society with a cheque for £9,928 in Kirkwall on November 21st —a very handsome donation and one for which we are extremely grateful. The donation is timely: we are about to apply for funding to help create a development plan for restoring the Hall and turning it into a world-class visitor centre and Rae was a living example to community resource. For this those with whom he worked. we have to match any funding The indigenous peoples he awarded. A development plan learned from and respected will put us in a stronger have forever returned that position in applying for large- respect too. Their honour of scale funding. him and his ways shows us his character, selflessness and A portion of the money will honesty, which should be a also help fit out the temporary visitor centre at the Hall of marker for us all. Being Clestrain, ensuring visitor and dishonoured and side-lined by community engagement British culture in his time is a 22 lasting disgrace. restored and turned into a lasting memorial. Those of you who live further afield seem to Skarabooks, my small cherish every scrap of publishing company, became information we send you on a Corporate member of The progress towards our goals. John Rae Society for two main Here in Orkney large numbers reasons. Firstly, my series of of people give time and effort novels entitled ‘Skara’ are to the cause — whether it be initially set in Neolithic manning stalls at shows and Orkney, the Canadian Arctic fairs or doing running repairs and the Arctic Rim. Secondly to the Hall. I’m a constant forager, which Davie Reid, JRS ‘handyman’ fixing a comes out in the novels. My pipe hero, Oiwa, travels unwittingly from his Tundra and Taiga homelands to Orkney. Shala, the heroine, lives in Neolithic Orkney near what is now known as The Tomb of The Eagles. With her mentor, Wrasse, they spiritually and supernaturally encourage the hero to reach Orkney.

Andrew Appleby

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THE JOHN RAE BIRTHDAY DRAW Photo by JohnPeter Welburn ABIPP

John Rae was by all accounts a As reported earlier in this modest and unassuming man newsletter our next steps are who would have been to invest in a development astounded at the passion with plan (for which we are required which, nearly two hundred to match the grant given). This years later, his supporters will greatly improve our defend his name and strive to chances of obtaining larger see his childhood home amounts of funding. 23 We are not asking you to shin expedition. The Hall of up ladders to fix pipes, but we Clestrain and the John Rae are hoping you will, if you are Society will tell the story, able, buy or sell some of the largely missing from the enclosed raffle tickets. We history books, of Rae’s great promise to spend the money skill and bravery, and how his wisely. Orcadian curiosity, instincts and ‘duggedness’ helped him *** to adapt to the local Cree and Inuit ways, enabling him to Corporate Member: Kristin survive the harsh conditions Linklater Voice Centre Ltd. that had defeated many others.

These remarkable accom- plishments cannot be fully appreciated in modern times without a tangible stage on which to revive John Rae’s memory. The Kristin Linklater Voice Centre is happy to contribute Kristin Linklater Voice Centre to this great community-based opened its doors in 2014 as a restoration project of John fully residential voice retreat Rae’s family home, the Hall of centre in Orkney, offering a Clestrain. Bringing this variety of voice and text childhood home back to life will courses throughout the year. revitalise the remarkable Kristin Linklater is a world- achievements of this heroic renowned teacher of voice Orcadian explorer. production who has pursued a A dedicated museum will highly successful academic exhibit the role of the and theatrical career in the Orcadians in the history of the United States and Europe for Hudson Bay company and will the past fifty years. On retiring vividly highlight the as a Professor of Theatre Arts importance of John Rae’s at Columbia University in contribution to the discovery of 2013, Kristin returned to her the North West Passage and native Orkney to continue her the fate of the Franklin legacy. 24 Corporate member: It has been a recent honour to

Adventure Canada formally join forces with the JRS in support of the restoration of the Hall of Clestrain. Our guests deeply value the opportunity to learn more about John Rae and to physically get to set foot at the Hall of Clestrain. We’ve heard this time and again from our guests, and we have seen

Adventure Canada is thrilled motivation in action from our to support and be a part of guests through our corporate the John Rae Society. Our fundraising to specifically family roots are in Scotland benefit the Hall of Clestrain. and our business is Arctic exploration and tourism. We We’re working diligently to could not find a better raise the profile of John Rae in partnership anchored by a Canada and on our shared value for the expeditions. In March 2019 we recognition of Rae’s Arctic sponsored David Reid’s Arctic accomplishments and the Return Expedition, which preservation of history and sought to re-trace John Rae’s heritage if we tried! journey from Naujaat (Repulse Bay) in Nunavut across the We’ve celebrated John Rae for Boothia Peninsula to Rae Strait many decades on our Arctic in 1854. Reid, who spear- expeditions though the headed the expedition, is Northwest Passage, visiting originally from Bishopton, near many important historical Glasgow, and much like Rae, sites, as well as through visits has an infectious passion and to Orkney on our expedition enthusiasm for polar travel cruises to the Scottish Islands. and exploration. The Arctic It has been a great privilege to Return expedition, which share the remarkable stories involved a team of four who of a remarkable man with trekked 650 kilometres visitors from around the world through ice and snow with through experts such as Ken sleds and skis, paid tribute to McGoogan and David Reid, and raised awareness of John both of whom join Adventure Rae. The journey honoured Canada expeditions regularly. Rae’s eagerness to learn from First Nations and Inuit 25 peoples, and promoted the achievements in Arctic ex- restoration and conversion of ploration and surveying land. the Hall of Clestrain into an interpretive Arctic History In September 2018 RICS Centre. appointed him as an honorary chartered surveyor and a We are proud to help preserve posthumous RICS diploma was the legacy of such a later awarded as part of RICS’s remarkable explorer and look 150th anniversary cele- forward to returning to the brations. An exhibition was set Arctic region Rae loved so up in London of artefacts (on much on our 2020 Northwest loan from the John Rae Passage expeditions and back Society president, Andrew to the Hall of Clestrain in 2021 on our Scotland Slowly Appleby) together with expedition. photographs from Stromness Museum) pertaining to his life and surveying achievements in *** the Arctic.

Recognising Rae’s feats in Corporate member: Royal travelling over 13,000 miles in Institution of Chartered the Arctic and mapping 1800 Surveyors miles of coastline, John Hughes, RICS President, says ‘If he were born 50 years later, Rae would have surely become a member of RICS and many of the surveying skills he learned to map the Northwest Passage have been used by

subsequent explorers.’ RICS is the world’s leading professional body for RICS continues to highlight Rae’s success in surveying. In qualifications and standards in February 2019 he was voted land, property, infrastructure and construction. For some the most inspiring surveyor in time now RICS has been RICS’ Pride in the Profession Mappers category. determined to get appropriate recognition for John Rae’s

26 Additionally RICS sponsored Forthcoming Events the Arctic Return team in their efforts to obtain recognition for Heart of Orphir this remarkable man’s skill and Saturday 14th March 2020 qualities. RICS remain strong 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. Orphir Community School Hall advocates for John Rae. Informal presentations of the Society’s future plans for the Hall of Clestrain and an John Rae Society opportunity to contribute Membership Update views and ideas. We would like as many representatives from Note: we have recently revised our different organisations in membership lists, using new systems. Orkney as possible. Photographic exhibitions. Free refreshments. Type of Number Prize Bingo Membership Doors open 6.45pm for eyes Annual 66 down 7.30 p.m. Standing Order 99 Great prizes! Life 161

John Rae Festival Members by area Fri. 8th May to Orkney 99 Sun.10th May 2020 Scotland 92 Open Days at the Hall of UK Other 85 Clestrain with foraging Overseas 50 expeditions and shore walks. Other events to be announced

John Rae Birthday End of September (Exact date TBC) Plans are for a charity auction, culminating in the John Rae Birthday Draw! There will also be a meal at Sheila Fleet’s Kirk Café. This will be a ticketed event. Details to follow later.

27 Visitors from afar Victorian Christmas Cards

We appreciate the fact that I put my late husband’s many visitors have limited collection of about 100 time in Orkney. If you are not Victorian Christmas cards, here during one of our Open dating mostly from the 1890s Days but would like to visit the on display at Skaill House Hall of Clestrain, do contact us during the Craft Fair there on and we will do our best to December 14th and 15th. They arrange something for you. We aroused a great deal of are always pleased to see interest. visitors. Several of you have expressed You can do this through our a wish to see them. If there is website: sufficient interest I could www.johnraesociety.com or arrange something perhaps by e-mail: during the John Rae Birthday [email protected] weekend in September. Please get in touch if you are or tel. 01856 771419 interested.

Fiona Gould

Gift Membership

Have you considered giving Contributions for the someone JRS membership as Spring newsletter a present? Annual (single) £15 and (joint) £20. I would be grateful for contributions for the next You can arrange this through newsletter — articles, travel the website or by contacting accounts, book reviews, in fact the Member-ship Secretary. anything you think would be of interest to members.

Editor

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