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Destination: All in. SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

WELLNESS GREAT URBAN HIKES ALL AGES GOLDEN GATE PARK GUIDE EXPLORE A DAY IN ROCKRIDGE

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JOB #: GRT-145823 JOB TITLE: DESTINATION ALL IN PUBLICATION: WHERE SF INSERTION DATE: JAN 2018 COLOR INFO: 4/C TRIM: 6.875” x 10” LIVE: 6.375” x 9.5” BLEED: 7.125” x 10.25” THE SEA-DWELLER

Th e new generation of a legend among divers’ watches, engineered by Rolex in 1967 for the conquest of the deep. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

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TECHFRAME Chronograph Tourbillon Carbon. Designed with Ferrari to celebrate its 70th anniversary. A very innovative and unique watch manufactured by Hublot and equipped with our in-house movement Chronograph Tourbillon mono pusher with a 5-day power reserve. rolex oyster perpetual and sea-dweller are ® trademarks. Carbon fiber case. Interchangeable hublot.com strap. Limited edition of 70 pieces. January 6 EDITOR‘S NOTE Where San Francisco 8 ASK THE EXPERT 80 THE FIX

10 TOP 5 Sync with the urban rhythm.

12 CALENDAR The top events on our radar

14 INSIDER Farmers' markets, sushi cheat sheet and local clean beauty picks

22 ONE BLOCK. ONE DAY. Neighborhoods: Exploring Jackson Square

24 AROUND THE BAY The perfect day in Rockridge

26 #SANFRANCISCO Instagramming outdoor fitness

Th e new generation of a legend among divers’ watches, engineered by Rolex in 1967 for the conquest of the deep.28 DAY IN THE PARK A complete guide to Golden It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history. Gate Park

32 URBAN HIKES Escapes in the city

34 Shop 62 Sights

38 Art 68 Explore

42 Scene 74 Maps 46 Food 58 Wine Country

COVER SUNSET OVER SUTRO BATHS NEAR LANDS END TRAIL ©ISAAC ARJONILLA

View from Lands End Trail ARJONILLA ©ISAAC

OYSTER PERPETUAL SEA-DWELLER YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

SAN FRANCISCO

PUBLISHER Nikki Wood ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Nanci Davies 415.901.6267 Mary Goll 415.901.6266 CIRCULATION, MARKETING & EVENTS MANAGER Catherine Pastuhov MARKETING COORDINATOR Lindsay Poole BUSINESS MANAGER Justin Birnstihl SALES SUPPORT ADMINISTRATOR Megan Simmons

MVP | EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen VICE PRESIDENT, INTERNAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Karen Rodriguez DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER Richard H. Brashear II REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT, SALES Courtney Fuhrmann DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco IF YOU HAVEN'T HAD an opportunity MVP | NATIONAL SALES to don your skates this winter, you VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL INTEGRATED SALES Rebekah Valberg have until Jan. 7 to head over to the VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL MARKETING Adeline Tafuri Jurecka Bay Area’s largest outdoor ice rink DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL SALES Liza Meneades MANAGER, NATIONAL INTEGRATED SALES David Gately at Embarcadero Center and have a

twirl while admiring some spectacu- E-mails for all of the above except contributors: lar views. And if you’re craving more [email protected] outdoor fun activities, head over to San Francisco Electric Tours. You’ll be able to let the Segway do the hard work while you enjoy the many sights of our city on one of numerous tours. My favorite is the Golden Gate Park tour, where you will be able to spend two-and-a-half hours exploring the beauty and history of one of our most

famous visitor destinations! MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV

Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Nikki Wood Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Publisher, Where San Francisco Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

4 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 ® YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936

January 2018 SAN FRANCISCO

EDITORIAL & DESIGN I love how moving between neighborhoods EDITOR, SAN FRANCISCO Rachel Ward in San Francisco can feel like visiting new cit- ART DIRECTOR Dusty Martin ies. If I'm in a nostalgic mood, I like to spend some time in Nob Hill, where cable cars climb MVP | CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson up cartoonishly steep hills and grand hotels SENIOR REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Margaret Martin loom over the landscaping and fountains DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey of Huntington Park. I suggest pausing for a DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla walking meditation on Grace Cathedral's CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt labyrinth and ducking into the elegant lobby MVP | PUBLICATION SERVICES of the Fairmont San Francisco (designed in PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR Kris Miller part by Julia Morgan) to admire the gold gild- PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER Mickey Kibler ing, marble Corinthian columns and crystal DIGITAL IMAGING Erik Lewis chandeliers. Then enjoy a classic cocktail MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY with 360-degree city views at the Top of the DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton

Mark or down the street at the bar in the Big TECHNICAL OPERATIONS MANAGER 4, where live piano music, dark wood paneling Tony Thorne-Booth and green leather stools evoke a bygone era. E-mails for all of the above except contributors:

[email protected]

MVP | SAN FRANCISCO Rachel Ward 555 Montgomery St., Ste. 600, San Francisco, CA 94111 Editor, San Francisco 415.901.6260; 415.901.6261 (fax) @wanderingrachel

#SeizeTheStay #wheretraveler connect with us #nobhill wheretraveler.com/seizethestay

IN THE WORLD Where is an inter national network of magazines ﬁ rst published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chi- CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III cago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris morrismedianetwork.com. Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

6 WHERE I JANUARY 2018

Elaine Claros CONCIERGE GRAND HYATT SAN FRANCISCO; MEMBER, LES CLEFS D’OR USA; MEMBER, NCCA

Q: What’s your favorite way David likes to complement Q: What do you consider to get exercise in the city? winter favorites with the the city's best photo op? A: Where else but San bounty of the sea and A: Torpedo Wharf is Francisco can you find seasonal mushrooms. epic! When standing hills with grades of 24.8 Chef Ute, avid fisherman at the end of this pier, and higher? (Yes, I walk up and owner of Ferry Plaza you can get a picture that grade on Jones Street Seafood in North Beach, of yourself with the between Pine and Cali- serves the freshest of oys- magnificent expanse of fornia streets every day.) ters and seafood at a lively the Golden Gate Bridge The abundance of hilly local happy hour. in the background, or routes provides sweep- turn slightly to capture ing vistas, which include Q: What outdoor activity do the entire city skyline. ocean, bridges, Victorians, you recommend the most? Choose your selfie back- churches and gardens Q: Where can visitors get a A: Bike trails abound here, drop from the 180-degree tucked away in hidden healthy meal? from the family-friendly views of the Presidio, alleys (like Macondray A: I love the concept Golden Gate Promenade Golden Gate Bridge, bay Lane). If hidden stairways of Homage on Union to the 50 miles of winding and city. Watch out for satisfy your thirst for Square. The menu stays trails through the historic photobombs from local discovery, check out some both healthy and current Presidio! Choose from fisherman, dog walk- great suggestions from the by paying respect to a guided tours offered by ers and bicyclists and Sister Betty website. Bay Area farm each Bay City Bike or ask your kitesurfers! month. In January, chef concierge to map a route.

CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU visitMarin.org

8 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 JANUARY 2018

SAN FRANCISCO

1 STROLL Walk to the end of the jetty near the Crissy Field entrance to hear the Wave Organ, an acoustic sculpture that interacts with the tides.

2 ASCEND Tackle the 163 steps (adorned with a mosaic created by a group of 300 voluteers) of the 16th Avenue staircase to reach 360-degree views.

3 PADDLE Book a trip with City Kayak for spectacular views of the skyline and wildlife spotting.

4 CLIMB Test your skills at Mission Cliffs, one of the largest and highest indoor climbing gyms.

5 STRETCH Looking out at Alca- traz Island from the Practice your Wave Organ, a giant downward dog at musical instrument SFO’s Yoga Room. played by the sea. ©KARLIS DAMBRAN/SHUTTERSTOCK January at a Glance

JAN. 11-28 Jan. 1-7 SF Sketchfest Shen Yun Performing Arts The popular comedy festival returns Shen Yun brings to with more than 200 events, from life a fantastical take stand-up and improv to fi lm screen- on the world of an- ings and game shows. See local cient China through talent as well as national headliners, elegant and acrobatic including Ricky Gervais, Jane Lynch, dancing, unique Dick Cavett, Sasheer Zamata and orchestral composi- Jeff Goldblum. Among the highlights tions and elaborate are live versions of Audible’s original sets. Tickets start at comedy series, including “Dr. Katz: $80. War Memo- The Audio Files,7 “Hold on With rial Opera House, Eugene Mirman” and “Hot Mic with 301 Van Ness Ave.,

Dan Savage.” 888.633.6999 ARTS PERFORMING YUN SHEN SKETCHFEST; SF COURTESY

12 WHERE I JANUARY 2018

IN JANUARY

The Birthday Party (Jan. 10–Feb. 4) Enter the world of Nobel Prize-winning English play- wright Harold Pinter with the American Conservatory Theater’s production of his classic drama (starring Tony Award-winner Judith Ivey) about mysterious strangers in a quiet seaside town.

Winter Wineland In Sonoma (Jan. 13-14 ) This Wine Country event is a great way to meet winemakers and taste limited production wines, new releases or library wines. Wineries highlight a vintage, varietal or vertical tasting for the weekend.

Martin Luther King Jr. Festival (Jan. 13-15) This weekend-long celebration of the life of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. features film screenings and arts and wellness events at Yerba Buena Gardens and the commemorative march on Jan. 15.

Michael Tilson Thomas Conducts Bernstein’s Candide JAN. 11-14 JAN. 22-31 ( Jan. 18 -21) The beloved San Francisco FOG DESIGN+ART San Francisco Symphony conductor leads a concert version of the hit FAIR Restaurant Week comic operetta, with vocals This is the perfect opportunity to dive into from a cast of global all The fifth annual celebration of de - San Francisco's food scene. Nearly 130 res- stars. sign and visual arts brings together taurants offer prix-fixe menus for 11 days. 45 leading galleries and art dealers Edwardian Ball from around the world for a week - (Jan. 26-27 ) end of programming, including Inspired by the work of dynamic exhibits and discussions the late cult author and illustrator Edward Gorey, with the country’s top architects, this annual ball features artists and stylemakers. Fort Mason live music, theater, fashion, Center Festival Pavilion, 2 Marina circus, fine art, literature,

Blvd., 415.551.5190 ballroom dancing and more. NINE ©GAMMA BURROWS; RISKA/HOSTLER KRISTINA COURTESY TOP: FROM

14 WHERE I JANUARY 2018

Join the Locals

Akiko’s Restaurant Local food critics rave about the variety and freshness of the omakase at this upscale, unmarked sushi spot within walking distance of Union Square.

Eiji This cult favorite in the Castro feels like a secret gem, with its cozy dining room and quiet, romantic ambience. Come hungry for affordable sushi and three types of housemade EAT tofu. SUSHI CHEAT SHEET A few of the best places to order sushi in the city

WHEN A SUSHI CRAVING STRIKES, you’ll have plenty of options in San Francisco. Whatever your taste, budget or occasion, there’s a sushi destination that won’t disappoint. For sushi connoisseurs or anyone else looking Ichi Sushi + Ni Bar This husband-and-wife- to splurge on the meal of a lifetime, seek out a restaurant specializing in owned popular sushi and omakase, a chef-chosen, multi-course menu designed to be consumed at izakaya destination in the Mission is bedecked with a leisurely pace. One such establishment is the peaceful, sun-drenched playful murals outlining Michelin-starred Kusakabe in atmospheric Jackson Square. It serves sushi etiquette. All the fish is sustainable, and the ad- kaiseki cuisine, a meticulous style of cooking with roots in the Japanese tea dictive yuzu fried chicken ceremony that’s focused on the seasonality and harmony of flavors and wings pair well with the shochu cocktails. rarely seen outside of Japan. Its cutting-edge omakase menu prepared by World Sushi Technical Skill Champion chef Mitsunori Kusakabe starts at For more great sushi in the city visit

$98 and includes bluefin fatty tuna. wheretraveler.com HALE ©ALANNA LEE/FLICKER; ©MIN WARD; ©RACHEL KUSAKABE; COURTESY LEFT: TOP FROM CLOCKWISE

16 WHERE I JANUARY 2018

Neighborhood Favorites

Alemany Farmers’ Market This Saturday Bernal Heights event was the state’s first farmers’ market. Founded in 1943, it served as a model for farmers’ markets across California.

EAT FROM FARM TO

Fort Mason (YOUR) TABLE Farmers’ Market Sunday is the day to visit San Francisco’s year-round historic Fort Mason on the city’s northern rim, home farmers’ markets offer a cornucopia of choices. to over 35 farm stands and views of the bay and By Brittany Shoot Golden Gate Bridge.

CALIFORNIA IS HOME to over 700 farmers’ markets, where locals shop for essential produce and savvy tourists score locally made souvenirs such as honey; dried fruits and nuts; and jams and jellies. According to the Pacific Coast Farmers’ Market Association, which manages over 60 markets in the Bay Area that source from over 300 farms statewide, it’s essential to support small, resource-conscious farms recovering from California’s recent drought. With so many year-round markets in the city, there’s never been a better time to Heart of the City shop for locally grown delights. Perhaps the most visible to Bay Area visitors, Farmers’ Market the farmers’ market surrounding the Ferry Building on the Embarcadero is Open Sundays and Wednesdays, this market open Saturdays 8 am-2 pm. Managed by the Center for Urban Education on Civic Center's United Nations Plaza has been about Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA), there are cooking demonstrations serving hungry locals and classes in addition to vendors specializing in everything you need to make since 1981. a hearty, gourmet meal at home: olive oil, salad greens and herbs, mushrooms, squash, fresh pasta and an array of soft and hard cheeses. Be sure to For more great farmers' markets in the city visit

grab a beautiful bouquet of cut flowers for your centerpiece. wheretraveler.com MARKET FARMERS' CITY THE OF HEART MARKET; FARMERS' MASON FORT MEIER/FLICKR; ©DORIS CUESA; COURTESY LEFT: TOP FROM CLOCKWISE

18 WHERE I JANUARY 2018

Shopping List

Etta + Billie Chai Tea Room + Body Spray This refreshing spritz with a cozy scent has only four ingredients: spring water, witch hazel, non-GMO organic vegetable glycerin and essential oils.

WELLNESS Monastery Rose Cleansing Oil CLEAN BEAUTY Massage your face with this gorgeously scented The Bay Area is a hub for natural skincare. oil made with over 100 rose petals. The gentle, nourishing formula is IT ONLY MAKES SENSE that the Bay Area, a region whose residents are known perfect for winter. for prioritizing wellbeing and holding strong environmental values, is ground zero for natural skincare, a booming multi-billion dollar industry. This is the headquarters of beauty powerhouses Sephora, Benefit Cosmetics and Bare Escentuals, and dozens of small eco-focused companies have launched here (and around California) as well. A San Francisco esthetician and natural per- fumist recently launched Monastery, a beautifully packaged line of skincare handmade in small batches right here in the city. Stocked at seven Bay Area boutiques, the collection is free of salt, alcohol and synthetics and instead made with whole ingredients such as sage from Greece, roses from India and Sandoval Aromatic Concentrate in Wood flowers from Japan. The food and drink-loving founder of the locally beloved Spray your suitcase, Etta + Billie airplane seat or hotel line has partnered with other local makers like Craftsman and room with this earthy, Wolves patisserie and Ritual Coffee Roasters for special ditionse of her soaps, germ-killing blend balms and sprays. Dozens of local shops carry the farm-to-bottle brand, of forest scents. which is based in the city. Sandoval aromatics are also hand-blended in For more great beauty small batches in California, using essential oils, absolutes, woods and resins. in the city visit

The sprays, candles and incense each even contain an energy crystal. wheretraveler.com SANDOVAL MONASTERY; BILLIE; + ETTA MONASTERY; COURTEY LEFT: TOP FROM CLOCKWISE

20 WHERE I JANUARY 2018

FIND THE BEST IN JACKSON SQUARE ONE BLOCK AT A TIME

Shop Architectural Books 804 Montgomery St. Strolling the upscale shops serves as a de facto tour of Drink historical architecture. Visit Mingle with creative types the restored Belli Building over pastries and pour overs (circa 1850) where you’ll at Réveille, a jet-black cof- find flannels and tin cloth fee truck parked at Pacific jackets from heritage outfit- and Sansome streets. Sip ter Filson. In a connecting contemporary grogs at showroom, Shinola gleams Barbarossa Lounge, a with superior, expert-craft- multi-level cocktail den with ed goods such as bicycles, design references to its for- watches and audio equip- mer life as a jail. At Taverna ment. Neighbor Allbirds Don't miss our newest Aventine, duck downstairs features sporty, sustainably exhibition, which to the speakeasy-style made kicks fashioned from features small, surreal lounge whose eastern wall merino wool in a concept worlds of charming, is a 150 year-old rough- store situated on Hotaling often hilarious hewn seawall, a reminder of Place, an alleyway lined with mechanical automata. the city’s original shoreline. hitching posts from bygone  Réveille 768 Sansome St. stables. Pop into French  Barbarossa Lounge clothier A.P.C. for simple 714 Montgomery St. yet impeccably designed  Taverna Aventine apparel, and Guideboat Co. 582 Washington St. for refined outdoor wear fit for a lakeside weekend in Eat the Adirondacks. At Eden & Eden, browse modern Coi recently nabbed a third jewelry and home goods, Michelin star with the artful and don’t leave without a November 16–January 28 precision of its 10-course, guidebook from the stacks seafood-focused tasting of design tomes at William menu. Three-Michelin-star Stout Architectural Books. Quince has long wowed  Filson 722 Montgomery St. diners with ultra-refined  Shinola 53 Hotaling Pl. WHERE CURIOSITY dishes sourced from its  Allbirds 27-99 Hotaling Pl. organic farm. Turn down  A.P.C. 407 Jackson St. an atmospheric brick-lined TAKES YOU  Guideboat 441 Jackson St. alleyway, and you’ll discover  Eden & Eden 560 Jackson St. Step inside a tornado. Meld your face with a friend’s. Bix, a 1930s-styled supper  William Stout club that serves classic See if you’re brave enough to sip water from a (clean) cocktails and live jazz. toilet. With over 650 hands-on exhibits, there’s always  Coi 373 Broadway something eye-opening to experience�plus dazzling Clockwise from top: The  Quince 470 Pacific Ave. dramatically lit Barbarossa Bay views, great food, and shopping.  Bix 56 Gold St. Lounge pours a large selection –Garrick Ramirez of sparkling wines (2); a course Pier 15 on the Embarcadero at the three-Michelin-starred For more things to do Coi; the inviting Allbirds show- in Jackson Square go to

room on Hotaling Place. wheretraveler.com ALLBIRDS MORRIS; ©MATT (2); BARBAROSSA COURTESY TOP: FROM CLOCKWISE exploratorium.edu

22 WHERE I JANUARY 2018

A DAY IN OAKLAND’S ROCKRIDGE NEIGHBORHOOD

SHOP and the launch of ramen takeout kits show how Literary nerds can delight the restaurant continues in Pegasus Books' selec- to deliver exactly what tion. The staff picks draw customers want. Bite into a a crowd, not to mention slice of deep-dish pizza at the hundreds of carefully Zachary’s Chicago Pizza. curated magazines. But the It also serves thin-crust store’s weekly book events pizzas using the same are what give it a sense of house-made pizza dough community that’s kept it a and cornmeal-dusted neighborhood staple since crust. Duchess is popular 1970. Get lost in the narrow for both its restaurant and walkways at Maison d’Etre bar. Try the braised lamb before deciding on the per- or duck confit sandwich fect pillow for your couch. topped off with a Humble Let the novelties allow Root cocktail made from you to envision a French- turmeric tea–infused gin. inspired pied-a-terre of  Ramen Shop your own. For another 5812 College Ave. taste of Europe, Rockridge  Zachary’s Chicago Market Hall sells imported Pizza 5801 College Ave. international goods. French  Duchess cheeses, Italian olive oils 5422 College Ave. and Swiss chocolates are a DRINK few of its highlights.  Pegasus Books Start your day at Cole 5560 College Ave. Coffee. Its fresh remodel  Maison d’Etre complements the same 5640 College Ave. pour-over coffee that has  Rockridge Market lured locals for at least Hall 5655 College Ave. 27 years. The 10 types of coffee beans are roasted EAT fresh every 24 hours. Come evening, sit amid shelves of Ramen Shop combines wine bottles at The Barrel Japanese cuisine with Cali- Room. Its changing flights fornia farm-to-table fare, focus on everything from influenced by the owners’ Eastern European to West- time at Chez Panisse. ern Italian wines. An Asian-influenced  Cole Coffee morning pastry menu 6255 College Ave.  The Barrel Room Clockwise from top: Artichoke 5330 College Ave. Hero deep dish at Zachary's Chicago Pizza; the remodeled For more things to do in bar at Cole Coffee; Pegasus Oakland’s Rockridge Books; Spicy tantanmen with Neighborhood go to

black sesame at Ramen Shop. wheretraveler.com PHOTOGRAPHY; ERICKSEN PHOTOGRAPHY/CHRISTIAN ©E&B PIZZA; CHICAGO ZACHARY'S COURTESY TOP: FROM CLOCKWISE SHOP RAMEN BOOKS; PEGASUS

24 WHERE I JANUARY 2018

#wheresanfrancisco A COLLAGE OF INSPIRING OUTDOOR IMAGES, THROUGH YOUR LENS

@shauna_harrison @magdalena.bird Golden Gate Bridge Welcome Center Sutro Baths

@chulin_geng @olga.pichkova Golden Gate Bridge Lands End Trail

Snap a great moment in San Francisco, and tag it on Instagram with #wheresanfrancisco for a chance to appear in an upcoming issue.

26 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 BISECTING SAN FRANCISCO’S western districts, the massive sprawl that is Golden Gate Park can seem like an overwhelming embarrassment of riches with no clear entry point. That’s because at half a mile wide and 3.5 miles long—over a thousand acres in all—Golden Gate Park is even larger than New York’s Central Park. The park is free to visitors, though some of the gardens and museums require admission. It’s possible to traverse the length of the park in one day, though you’ll miss a few must- see spots if you try to cram it all in.

From the east entrance, the first main 1895, the de Young required some mainte- attraction you’ll notice is the Conserva- nance after suffering considerable damage tory of Flowers. The gleaming white glass during the 1989 Lomo Prieta earthquake. and wood Victorian pavilion is the oldest The new museum, designed by Swiss existing public conservatory in the Western architects Herzog & de Meuron, opened in Hemisphere, originally unveiled in 1879 October 2005. and reopened in 2003 after renovations Back outside, there are meadows and following extensive wind damage in the gardens to explore and enjoy. The five-acre mid-1990s. It houses four permanent exhi- Japanese Tea Garden is full of markers bitions of over 1,700 species of plants from commemorating its 123 year-old history regions all around the world. In the steamy and lush clusters of cherry trees, tower- highland tropics gallery, for instance, you’ll ing bamboo and meticulously manicured find orchids and perennial impatiens the bonsai. The pagodas and bridges can get size of your face—which is appropriate, crowded, so plan to stay a while or enjoy

ONG PHOTOGRAPHY ONG because most of these blooms bear a re- the traditional tea service in the teahouse. semblance to an actual face, petals folded The San Francisco Botanical Garden in just such a way to mimic a bemused or includes 55 acres, with alcoves like the angry expression. Garden of Fragrance. Don't miss the Helen If you’re looking for a quiet reprieve, Crocker Russell Library of Horticulture off cross the street to visit the National AIDS to the left of the entrance. The understated Memorial Grove, a peaceful sanctuary library houses the largest collection of dedicated to the lives of those touched by gardening and horticulture books and HIV and AIDS. The heavy fragrance of the periodicals in Northern California and also redwood trees and ferns makes it a perfect hosts free story time for children. place to rest and contemplate before head- Getting closer to the Pacific Ocean side ing back out into the sprawling park fields. of the park, you’ll pass the Chain of Lakes. Next up, it’s time to learn a thing or two. One of the most popular is Spreckels Lake, As you near the middle of the park, several where you’ll often see small gatherings museums peek over the treetops, including of remote controlled sailboat enthusiasts one with a “living” roof that blends right in. piloting a cluster of ships around the pond. The California Academy of Sciences is fun Most visitors row straight for Stow Lake, for families and kids at heart, featuring a where you can rent a paddleboat and enjoy tidal wave of information and exhibitions. cruising around the small lake. Families with Day in Inside you’ll find the two-story Steinhart young children also won’t want to miss the Aquarium and the Morrison Planetarium, Koret Children’s Quarter, where the brightly the largest all-digital dome in the world colored 103-year-old Herschell-Spillman that currently features its latest original carousel still delights kids of all ages. FRESH AIR show, “Habitat Earth,” which traces routes Just down the road, you’ll also find what (Opposite page) Lotus flower the Park between all the interconnected ecosystems seems like a bewilderingly out-of-place in bloom at the Conserva- Navigating the gardens, museums of our planet. compound full of wooly, lumbering bison. tory of Flowers. (This page and activities of massive Golden Gate Park, Across the green, you’ll spot another Golden Gate Park has boasted a bison herd from top) Chinese Pagoda destination: the de Young Museum, named since the late 1800s, though today’s herd on Strawberry Island in Stow from east to west. for its founder Michael H. de Young, who is descended from several bison that were Lake; Yoga in the Park festivi- also co-founded hometown newspaper, donated to the park in 1984 as a birthday ties; Lindy in the Park swing By Brittany Shoot dance lessons. (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©KEVIN J. FREST. (THIS PAGE FROM TOP) ©JENS HOFFMAN; COURTESY YOGA IN THE PARK; ©DAVE W ©DAVE PARK; THE IN YOGA COURTESY HOFFMAN; ©JENS TOP) FROM PAGE (THIS FREST. J. ©KEVIN PAGE) (OPPOSITE PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE GOES CREDIT PHOTO the San Francisco Chronicle. First opened in gift to the city’s then-mayor, U.S. Sena-

28 WHERE I APRIL 2017 29 tor Dianne Feinstein, from her husband. One of your last stops before you reach Today’s paddock residents are often most the Pacific Ocean are two twin windmills. GATE PARK BANK; YOGA IN THE PARK THE IN YOGA BANK; PARK GATE active and come close to the fence during The North, or Dutch, windmill from 1902 is the morning hours. augmented by the Queen Wilhelmina Tulip If watching sports is more your speed, Garden at its base, which also boasts an soccer fields and a nine-hole, par-3 golf array of Icelandic poppies that bloom in the course are both nearby. You can also wan- springtime months. The Murphy Windmill, der over to the Angler’s Lodge and watch or southern windmill, was completed in fly fishermen practice their technique at the 1908. Like its sister structure, it is slowly be- casting pools. ing restored to its original beauty.

 PRACTICAL TIPS. Parking in the park is • On the shore: herons, marsh wrens and yel- free and available along many of the main lowthroats streets, though always check signs for specific • In the trees: hawks, ravens and a chorus of time limits. Paid parking is also available at songbirds like warblers and juncos the museums and botanical garden. The free • In the air: Allen’s and Anna’s hummingbirds Golden Gate Park Shuttle runs between 15  OFFBEAT ACTIVITIES. The park is full of locations, including a parking lot at Ocean courts for oddball sports. You can try your Beach, on weekends and holidays between hand at lawn bowling, practice your toss in 9 am-6 pm. Bike rentals are available around the horseshoe pits, aim high at the archery the park including Golden Gate Park Bike and field, work up a sweat at the handball courts Skate on Fulton Street and American Cyclery or throw caution to the wind on the disc golf with locations on Frederick Street. course.  APPS AND MAPS. Plan your route using  DON'T GO HUNGRY. Fill up on rustic Mexi- an app specially designed for the park. You’ll can at Padrecito and craft cocktails at Alembic ALFRESCO AMUSEMENT find that the park is also well labeled in most in the Haight, on the eastern side of the park. (Opposite page) Lunar New GPS apps. The California Academy of Science Midway through your journey, exit the park Year performance at the San maintains two helpful apps for exploring and at 19th Street and Lincoln Avenue to pop into Francisco Botanical Garden; engaging with the park. The Golden Gate Park popular Nopalito for contemporary Mexican. aquatic bromeliad at San Francisco Conservatory of Field Guide offers a map, species directory and On the Outer Sunset side, you’ll find two local Flowers; San Francisco Con- weather for the park. With the iNaturalist app, favorites. Trouble Coffee serves thick slices of servatory of Flowers' lawn you can be become a citizen scientist, tracking cinnamon toast and whole coconuts. Outer- is popular with picnickers. species you spot and recording any relevant lands features a rotating menu of seasonal sal- (This page from left) The data. ads, soups and sandwiches. Grab a giant sand- Golden Gate Park Band has  CREATURES. A few birds and animals you wich to go from Velo Rouge Cafe on the Inner performed free concerts for may see along the way. Richmond side. When you reach the Pacific, 135 years; partnering at a free The Drawing Board’s • In the ponds: ducks, geese, grebes and cor- enjoy watching the waves crash on Ocean Yoga in the Park class.

lemon mousse pavola GOLDEN COURTESY LEFT: FROM PAGE THIS ©COLEONG/ISTOCK. FREST; J. ©KEVIN ZHENG; ©AIPING TOP: FROM CLOCKWISE PAGE OPPOSITE morants Beach over dinner at The Beach Chalet.

31 Urban Hikes Start the New Year off on meadows, these woods have an aura of en- Location: Mansell Street & Visitacion Avenue chantment. The fog here even creates a year- Getting there: Take BART to Balboa Park; the right foot by taking a round cloud forest. Remarkably, the 80-acre then catch the 29 Bus. walk through a beautiful hill is right in the middle of the city, near Cole Valley. Signs mark a network of maintained STERN GROVE undeveloped corner of trails. For a nice walk, take Fairy Gates Trail to This 33-acre treasure found in a ravine in San Francisco. Historic Trail to South Ridge Trail, and then the Sunset District is best known as the follow North Ridge Trail back to Fairy Gates. spectacular setting of a free annual music Find a handy map at sutrostewards.com. festival held on Sundays throughout the Distance: 1.8 miles summer. The concerts attract crowds of up Difficulty: Easy to moderate to 20,000 in a majestic natural amphitheater Location: Multiple entrances, including surrounded by towering eucalyptus trees. Clarendon Ave. & Johnstone Drive; 17th & Insiders take advantage of the grove’s wood- Stanyan streets ed trails year-round. Discover a redwood Getting there: Take the N Muni metro line grove, a giant meadow and a natural lake in from downtown or catch the 43 Bus. this hushed, otherworldly green space. Distance: 1-2 miles GLEN PARK CANYON Difficulty: Easy You’re likely to come across Islais Creek, mi- Location: 19th Avenue & Sloat Boulevard grating birds, rock formations and poppies Getting There: Take the KT, L or M Muni and angelica while hiking the sunny canyon metro line from downtown. loop in this 70-acre recreation area tucked between the residential neighborhoods LANDS END TRAIL of Glen Park and Diamond Heights. And if As its name implies, this trail is located in IN SAN FRANCISCO, YOU DON’T NEED to travel outside city limits to escape buzzing you’re lucky, you might spot great horned the outer reaches of the city on the Pacific streets for green open space. In fact, you can get in a full hike at a number of popular owls, red-shouldered hawks and coyotes. Coast, and it feels somewhat like the edge of and lesser-known recreational areas. Here are just six of the places where you can Located near public transit and popular with the earth. Start your journey at the beautiful lace up your hiking shoes and get your fill of fresh air and nature. dog owners, the lush, sprawling park is also Lands End Lookout visitors center, which home to a picnic area and a newly renovated outlines the nature and history of the area MOUNT DAVIDSON PARK Head left at the top and follow more steps playground and tennis courts. and has a polished gift shop and cafe. Then Climb to San Francisco’s highest natural up to the peak, where you’ll find magnificent Distance: 2 miles follow the gorgeous, well-maintained peak in this uncrowded, serene park in views of the city and bay, which might be Difficulty: Easy 3.5-mile out-and-back trail to postcard- Sherwood Forest, a small residential neigh- shrouded in moody fog. On a clear day, the Location: Chenery & Elk streets worthy landscapes. Jagged cliffs covered borhood at the city’s southern center. You panorama extends far to the East and North Getting there: Take BART to Glen Park Station in windswept cypresses dramatically meet might recognize it from a scene in the 1971 bays. Enjoy a quiet moment on the bench blue sea, with the Golden Gate Bridge and action film “Dirty Harry.” The large cross at and snap a photo with the ominous-looking JOHN MCLAREN PARK Marin Headlands in the distance. If you have the summit now memorializes victims of the fallen tree across the path. This massive and underused 312-acre park energy to spare when you reach the end of Armenian genocide. Ideal for dog-owners, Distance: 1 mile on the city’s southern outskirts is home the trail, keep walking past the mansions families and birdwatchers, the broad dirt Difficulty: Easy to moderate to picnic areas, 7 miles of walking trails, of the Sea Cliff neighborhood and take a trails wind through a dense, misty forest of Location: Lansdale Avenue & Dalewood recreational courts and a golf course as detour to Baker Beach, a mile-long stretch eucalyptus and pine trees, blackberry bram- Way well as grassland and wetland habitat. The of sand tucked below rugged hills with a bles, ferns and ivy as well as open grassland. Getting there: Take the KT, L or M Muni 2.7-mile Philosopher’s Way loop will lead famous panoramic view of the Golden Gate TAKE A WALK The 40-acre hill is covered in a maze of paths, metro lines from downtown to West Portal you through redwood and cypress groves to Bridge. Back at the starting point, make the (Clockwise from opposite but the best option is to head to the right or catch the 43 Bus. far-reaching vistas of the Bay Area. Along the descent to explore the Sutro Bath ruins. page) Walking Lands End at the first intersection then keep straight trail, stone markers called musing stations Distance: 3.5 miles Trail; Sutro Forest; concert until bearing left at the junction right before MOUNT SUTRO OPEN SPACE RESERVE- offer context. Difficulty: Easy to moderate meadow at Stern Grove; the the half-mile point. Cross the fire road and With lofty eucalyptus trees soaring up to Distance: 2.7 miles Location: 680 Point Lobos Ave. photogenic Sutro Baths.

continue straight to the steep stone steps. 200 feet high, chirping birds and wildﬂower FOREST FRANCISCO SAN COURTESY PAGE: OPPOSITE ARJONILLA. ©ISAAC PAGE: THIS ARJONILLA ©ISAAC (2): ALLIANCE Diﬃculty: Easy Getting there: Take the 38 Bus. WHERE SAN FRANCISCO JANUARY 2018 Shop

GUMP’S Founded in 1861, this bi-level Union Square retailer is a legendary destination for luxury gifts, jewelry and home decor. Find sumptuous pearls, jade, fine jewelry and china on the first floor. The collections of crystal and silver are upstairs. Shop SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco 135 Post St., 415.982.1616.

MACY’S Elevate Your Home The flagship store is housed in two buildings between The flagship Alessi store is a wonderland for disciples of in- O’Farrell and Geary streets on dustrial design. Self-dubbed the Italian Factory of design, the either side of Stockton Street. Encompassing an entire city company commissions influential engineers, architects and block, the west building features womenswear and ac- artists from around the world to apply their talents to home cessories, watches, cosmetics, goods, kitchenware and gadgets (as well as a handful of fashion jewelry, the visitor center and a post office. Menswear and accessories). This winter, keep an eye out for the cutting-edge, accessories are located across ultra-ergonomic truffle slicer dubbed the Alba. It’s the brain- Stockton Street in the east building. Pick up your visitor child of a collaboration between Alessi, the National Centre for Alden Shop for Gentlemen 170 Sutter Street, San Francisco, CA 94104 savings pass at the visitor Truffle Studies and the International White Truffle Fair of Alba. center on the cellar level. 170 800-273-7463 415-421-6691 www.AldenShop.com O’Farrell St., 415.954.6271. $120 424 Sutter St., 415.434.0403 HOME & DESIGN 3 FISH STUDIOS Founded in 2007 by hus- ACCESSORIES & BAGS APPAREL videos, vinyl records and vin- El Camino Real, Palo Alto, band-and-wife painters and SHINOLA MARINE LAYER tage rock posters anywhere. 650.324.8697. printmakers Annie Galvin and Founded in 2011, Detroit- This casual clothing company 1855 Haight St., 415.831.1200; Eric Rewitzer, this shop in the based Shinola was conceived sells luxuriously soft sweat- 2455 Telegraph Ave., Berkeley, PAXTON GATE’S CURIOSITIES Outer Sunset showcases the with the belief that products shirts, tees and scarves that 510.549.1125. FOR KIDS couple’s original and afforda- should be well made and are sustainably made right A fabulous display of imagina- ble artwork. Find paintings, built to last. As makers of here in San Francisco. The OMNIVORE BOOKS ON FOOD tion and design, this shop is prints, digital prints of original modern watches, bicycles, custom fabric is a blend of Featuring new, antiquarian an homage to the natural cre- artwork, hand-pulled linocut journals and leather goods, two yarns, pima cotton and and collectible books by ativity of children. One of San prints, works on paper, mag- Shinola stands for skill at scale, MicroModal, which is a bio- and for culinary gurus, this Francisco’s finest children’s nets and postcard sets. 4541 the preservation of craft and based material that comes bookstore is a wonderland boutiques, it brings on nos- Irving St., 415.242.3474. the beauty of industry. 53 from recycled beechwood. for readers interested in food talgia for childhood and toys. Hotaling Pl., 415.513.1640. 2209 Chestnut St., 415.346.2400; and drink. It features books 766 Valencia St., 415.252.9990. THE ANTIQUE TRADERS 498 Hayes St., 415.829.7519. on everything from the tradi- This shop specializes in TIMBUK2 tions of colonial India to the DEPARTMENT STORES stained-glass lamps and win- A bike messenger founded THE VOYAGER SHOP kitchens of 1950s America BLOOMINGDALE’S dows, estate jewelry, cut crys- this bag company in a garage A retail collaboration from a and hosts numerous events Located in Westfield tal, bronzes and furniture, pri- in the Mission District in 1989, group of artistic businesses, with high-profile chefs and San Francisco Centre, marily from the Art Nouveau and the factory is still located Voyager features menswear authors. 3885A Cesar Chavez this is the second largest period. Worldwide shipping in the same neighborhood. from Japanese and Italian St., 415.282.4712. Bloomingdale’s store in the is available. 4310 California St., The flagship Hayes Valley lines, premium denim, country, offering the latest 415.668.4444. boutique carries messengers, American footwear, women’s CHILDREN’S SHOPS fashions for women, men laptop bags, backpacks, lug- basics from French lines, AMBASSADOR TOYS and kids, plus home decor. ATYS gage, totes and accessories ocean gear, books and art. 365 Ambassador promotes an A 140-year history of fash- The modern household and in limited-edition designs. Valencia St., 415.795.1748. understanding of cultures ion, special events and the personal items at this store Customers can choose their around the world with iconic Little Brown Bag make are designed by architects own color combinations and BOOKS, MUSIC, & books, dolls and games Bloomingdale’s like “No Other and industrial designers, a play with specialty fabrics. All ELECTRONICS from six continents, appro- Store in the World.” Begin practice that lends a high- designs are guaranteed to AMOEBA MUSIC priate for infants to young your day at the first floor visi- art feel to everyday items. last a lifetime. 506 Hayes St., This Haight-Ashbury institu- teens. 2 Embarcadero Center, tor center with special offers. Most of the sleek pieces are 415.252.9860. tion has one of the largest 415.345.8697. 186 West 845 Market St., 415.856.5300. imported from Scandinavia,

selections of CDs, DVDs, Portal Ave., 415.759.8697. 855 RITCHER ©NIKKI

34 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 35 Shop SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Shop

Germany, France and Italy. ed-edition pieces as well as styled business clothing, on Beach Street. 500 Beach St., stocks a one-of-a kind col- 2149B Union St., 415.441.9220. a small selection of accesso- accessories and sportswear, 415.673.7762. lection of clothing, jewelry ries including cuff links and this shop has been dressing and home decor (all vintage, BRITEX FABRICS belt buckles. The elegant professional men for more EMBARCADERO CENTER handmade or imported A landmark Legacy Business boutique features a discreet than 40 years. 140 Sutter St., The office towers stretch- from Europe). 560 Jackson St., in Union Square, Britex has bar and lounge below the 415.989.0429. ing west from the foot of 415.983.0490. offered the finest selection sales floor. 174 Geary St., Sacramento Street, known of fabrics, accessories and 415.981.2200. JOHN VARVATOS as 1, 2, 3 and 4 Embarcadero, ERES notions since 1952. This Occupying a unique place in also house more than 100 Trendsetting and daring, Eres family-run fashion designers’ LANG ANTIQUES the landscape of American retailers, 30 restaurants and a has been a force in the world dream is a must-visit stop This quaint little shop in the design, John Varvatos unites movie theater. Restaurants in- of swimwear for over 40 years for textile lovers and anyone heart of downtown has been Old World craftsmanship and clude Sens for Mediterranean thanks to its iconic style and who sews, featuring fabrics, specializing in fine antique refined tailoring with modern favorites and Osha Thai technical flair. The lingerie buttons, trims and laces from and estate jewelry since 1969. innovations in textiles and for some of the best curry collections, always an elegant iconic fashion houses and Find an array of fine jewels a rock ‘n’ roll sensibility. The around. 415.772.0700. balancing act between style emerging design stars, plus from every important design brand represents an entire and technique, reveal another workshops, classes, events period, including Victorian, men’s lifestyle that includes WESTFIELD SAN FRANCISCO facet of creativity. 471 Gough and free store tours (every Edwardian, Art Deco and tailored clothing, sportswear, CENTRE St., 415.757.0781. other Saturday). 146 Geary St., more, as well as a large se- footwear, bags, belts, eye- This nine-story shopping 415.392.2910. lection of estate diamond wear, limited edition watches, mall features Nordstrom, THE GROCERY STORE engagement rings. 309 Sutter men’s fragrances and John Bloomingdale’s and more No ordinary corner market, HEATH CERAMICS St., 415.982.2213. Varvatos Star USA Collection, than 200 shops and restau- this is a hip European fashion One of the few remaining as well as Converse by rants, including the fine-din- oasis featuring cool clothing mid-century American pot- SHREVE & CO. John Varvatos. 152 Geary St., ing Restaurant Collection with a rock-star twist. Jeans teries still in existence today, Founded in 1854 and still 415.986.0138. Under the Dome. 865 Market and more jeans and a world- Heath has been making one of the city’s leading St., 415.495.5656. class selection of tees hang tableware and tile for over a purveyors of fine jewelry, SHOES on simple rolling racks lining half-century in its Sausalito watches and crystal, the San THE ALDEN SHOP SPECIALTY FOODS both sides of the huge space. factory. The shops sell artisan Francisco institution features Established in 1884, this shoe SPICE ACE Designer shoes and jewelry pottery that emphasizes de- an in-store Mikimoto pearl company offers classic men’s This locally owned store on round out the merchandise sign, handcrafted techniques boutique, Rolex watches and footwear that represents New Steiner Street has more than mix. 3687 Sacramento St., and the reinvigoration of the many other luxuries. 150 Post England’s tradition of old- 400 of the finest spices, herbs, 415.928.3615. company’s designer-mak- St., 415.421.2600. ; 329 Stanford school, custom boot-making blends, salts, peppers, chiles T A T er legacy. 1 Ferry Building, Shopping Center, Palo Alto, at its finest. Find a complete and extracts from around SUSAN 415.399.9284. ; 2900 18th St., 650.327. 2211. line of shoes, from wingtips the globe. Tasting jars offer a LARGEST SELECTION OF ORIGINAL ART NOUVEAU ITEMS This elegant storefront Est. 1970 415.361.5552. ; 400 Gate Five Rd., to slip-ons, carefully hand- chance to experience every offers fine European and Sausalito, 415.332.3732. LINGERIE worked with painstaking at- spice. Try the customer fa- Japanese apparel, shoes ALLA PRIMA tention to detail using premi- vorites: Pacific Heights spice and accessories, including NEEDLEPOINT INC. Exclusive lingerie and swim- um calfskins, luxurious suedes blend, Calabrian sea salt the latest styles by Comme For the best in hand-painted wear from top international and genuine shell cordovan. and smoked sweet paprika des Garçons, Simone Rocha, needlepoint designs, visit this designers, including Prima 170 Sutter St., 415.421.6691. from Spain. 1821 Steiner St., Junya Watanabe and other shop in the heart of Jackson Donna, La Perla, Dolce & 415.885.3038. avant-garde designers. 3685 Square. Needlepoint Inc. Gabbana, Andres Sarda FREDA SALVADOR Sacramento St., 415.922.3685. carries a wide assortment of and Eres. 539 Hayes St., A duo of local designers sells WOMEN’S APPAREL original canvases, fibers and 415.864.8180. their fashion-world lauded CUYANA BAY AREA stitching accessories. M-F line of boots and other foot- Meaning “to love” in Quechua, BAY AREA PREMIUM 9 am-5 pm, Sa 10 am-4 pm. LES CENT CULOTTES wear at this Union Street bou- Cuyana celebrates a philos- OUTLETS 326 Jackson St., 415.392.1622. This lingerie boutique hous- tique. The well-made styles, ophy of fewer, better things. Save 25-65 percent every 800.345.1622. es silk imports from France from rocker-chic to classic, The brand creates premium day at five Premium Outlet including Simone Perele, are all made in Spain and apparel and accessories, locations, home to impres- JEWELRY Cervin, Huit and Chantelle. designed for walking. 2416 designed with a classic, mod- sive collections of designer HUBLOT 2200 Polk St., 415.614.2586. Fillmore St., 415.872.9690. ern aesthetic, sourced from outlet stores, including Located in the heart of Union the world’s highest quality Banana Republic, Burberry Square in the historic 180 MEN’S APPAREL SHOPPING DESTINA- materials and crafted to last a and more. 681 Leavesley Rd., Geary St. building, Hublot San THE HOUND CLOTHIERS TIONS lifetime. The pieces combine Gilroy, 408.842.3729; 2774 Francisco offers an extensive A haberdasher of fine cloth- ANCHORAGE SQUARE timeless design with premi- Paragon Outlets Dr., Livermore, selection of timepieces for ing for gentlemen, The This is the biking, touring, um materials to tell unique 925.292.2868; 629 Factory ladies and men. Hublot time- Hound is located on the shopping and dining hub stories of heritage, craftsman- Tiffany lamps • Galle and Daum Nancy pieces Stores Dr., Napa, 707.226.9876; pieces merge classic Swiss ground level of the historic of Fisherman’s Wharf, with ship and travel. 291 Geary St., Stained Glass Windows • Handel Lamps 2200 Petaluma Blvd., North horological complications glass-front Hallidie Building more than 35 activities, stores Ste. 201, 844.326.6005. Petaluma, 707.778.9300; with modern design and in the heart of the Financial and restaurants to explore. Pairpoint and other lamps 321 Nut Tree Rd., Vacaville, materials, redefining what a District. Known for its excep- Validated parking is available EDEN & EDEN 707.447.5755. Swiss watch looks like. You’ll tional customer service and at Anchorage Square Garage This stylish and charming 43004310 California St. at 5th Avenue • San Francisco • (415) 668-4444 also find hard-to-find, limit- large inventory of classically Jackson Square boutique

36 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 37 Art Art

A Gallery Celebrates 25 Years EXHIL TED & graphics and sculpture by The Weinstein Gallery just marked its quar- modern and contemporary masters such as John ter-century birthday, and to celebrate it un- Baldessari, Guy Dill, Alex EXH UED Katz, Roy Lichtenstein, veiled 10 new paintings by German-American Robert Motherwell, Robert artist Marcus Jansen, specially commissioned Rauschenburg, Frank Stella, Donald Sultan, Bernar Venet for the occasion. These works are on view at PHOTOGPHS and Russian artist Grisha the 349 Geary St. gallery through Jan. 20. Also Bruskin. Closed Su. 251 Post St., BY NL PREON Suite 400, 415.421.7171. during this time, a mid-career retrospective of Marcus Jansen’s work is on view in SoMa at the MONTAGUE GALLERY Featuring photos from The only gallery of its kind 444 Clementina St. gallery, along with an Oskar ﬁve decades: in San Francisco, Montague Gallery features an expan- Fischinger show on “Raumlichtkunst,” a recon- Bruce Springsteen sive roster of respected structed 1920s avant-garde film. Stevie Nicks and sought-after names in Freddie Mercury the contemporary fine art Bob Dylan glass world, including Lino Jimi Hendrix Tagliapietra, Dante Marioni, ART GALLERIES gallery. Open daily. 2010 Hyde CREATIVITY EXPLORED en art, international artists Michael Jackson Hiroshi Yamano and Chihuly 111 MINNA GALLERY St., 415.776.0104. Artists with developmental challenge the traditional use Bob Marley Workshop. The gallery also This hip arts space on an disabilities create art for sale of materials to produce work & many more features jewelry and painting. alley just two blocks south of CHRISTOPHER-CLARK FINE and exhibition here. The gal- that focuses and reflects on 445A Sutter St., 415.964.4978. Market Street doubles as a bar ART lery offers remarkable art at societal issues. 464 Sutter St., and club and features work This premier San Francisco surprisingly affordable prices 415.677.0770. SAN FRANCISCO ART in all media by emerging and gallery features paintings, and hosts exhibitions on a EXCHANGE alternative artistic talent. 111 drawings and original prints variety of engaging themes. JOHN BERGGRUEN GALLERY San Francisco Art Exchange Minna St., 415.974.1719. by European masters. Find 3245 16th St., 415.863.2108. Established in 1970, this is a worldwide leader in art engravings and etchings world-class, bi-level gallery and photographs from rock BRIAN GROSS FINE ART by Dürer and Rembrandt; GALLERY 444 hosts new exhibitions month- ‘n’ roll and pop culture. The This spacious gallery in the French Barbizon paintings; Celebrating more than 20 ly, showcasing works by gallery features original pho- up-and-coming Potrero Hill Impressionist works by years in its location, this fam- young contemporary artists tographs, paintings, drawings arts district hosts about nine Pissarro, Renoir, Manet and ily-owned gallery exhibits as well as major 20th century and limited-edition prints of exhibitions a year, showcas- Cassatt; and art of la belle original paintings, prints modern and contemporary The Beatles, Rolling Stones, ing contemporary painting, epoque from Toulouse- and sculptures. It features American and European Jimi Hendrix and more. Open sculpture and photography Lautrec, Cheret and Tissot. more than 20 international painters and sculptors includ- M-Sa 10 am-6 pm. 458 Geary by artists like Ed Moses and Twentieth century masters and local artists, including ing Willem de Kooning, Roy St., 415.441.8840. Phil Sims as well as emerg- Picasso, Matisse, Chagall Boulanger and Olbinski, De Forest, Georgia O’Keeffe, ing talents. 248 Utah St., and Dali as well as Post-War whose unique works inspire Henri Matisse and Jim Dine. SAN FRANCISCO CENTER 415.788.1050. American artists Stella, imagination and evoke emo- Bay Area artists and tastes are FOR THE BOOK Motherwell, Frankenthaler tion. 444 Post St., 415.434.4477. well represented. Closed Su. This gallery and studio show- BUSACCA GALLERY and Lichtenstein are also 10 Hawthorne St., 415.781.4629. cases every artistic aspect Artist and design consultant represented. Open daily. 377 GALLERY WENDI NORRIS of books, from the antique Mark Busacca creates a luxu- Geary St., 415.397.7781. This bold and modern 5,100 MARTIN LAWRENCE to the experimental. Ponder rious collection of contem- square-foot gallery in SoMa GALLERIES exhibitions on censorship porary and historic paintings, CK CONTEMPORARY is known for its surrealist net- Founded in 1975, Martin and literary forms from vari- sculpture, photography, This new and beautifully work. It hosts exhibitions that Lawrence Galleries specializes ous cultures or take a peek at antiques, design objects and renovated gallery space is are emblematic of its transcul- in original paintings, sculp- binding and printing work- more by global masters in his home to a collection of orig- tural nature and works to inte- tures and limited-edition © Neal Preston. All rights reserved. shops. 375 Rhode Island St., Russian Hill gallery. Busacca is inal paintings by noteworthy grate its contemporary artists graphics. The gallery features 415.565.0545. dedicated to a broad-based American and European con- into the global community of works by Pablo Picasso, Marc approach to art, with an eye temporary artists. In addition art professionals, institutions Chagall, Rembrandt, Andy SERGE SOROKKO GALLERY Open to the public to the creative energy and to mounting exhibitions, the and collectors. 161 Jessie St., Warhol and Keith Haring A stalwart in the local arts output unique to the collec- gallery works closely with 415.346.7812. along with the best emerg- scene since 1984, this gallery tor. Beautifully photographed, new and experienced col- ing artists. 366 Geary St., San Francisco Art Exchange LLC features post-war and con- edited, designed and written, lectors, locating works of art, JENKINS JOHNSON GALLERY 415.956.0345. 458 Geary Street temporary sculpture, paint- the website is itself an ongo- managing commissions and Features contemporary pho- between Taylor and Mason ings and graphics by modern ing carousel of moving art assisting designers and cli- tography, painting, video, MEYEROVICH GALLERY 415 441 8840 masters like Henri Matisse, that serves as a consignment ents to find the perfect pieces performance and glass sculp- One of the country’s lead- www.sfae.com Joan Miró, Pablo Picasso, for their home. 357 Geary St., ture by emerging, mid-career ing galleries, specializing Damien Hirst, Andy Warhol 415.397.0114. and established artists. With in American and European and many others. The gallery

an emphasis on content-driv- paintings, works on paper, GALLERY JANSEN/WEINSTEIN MARC COURTESY has advanced the careers of

38 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 39 Art SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Art

many promising painters and the largest in the Western the month. 736 Mission St., Paris, the museum was built MUSEUM OF CRAFT AND SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUM OF YERBA BUENA CENTER FOR from classical Chinese paint- helped organize the 1989 mu- Hemisphere devoted exclu- 415.655.7800. to commemorate California DESIGN MODERN ART THE ARTS ing to abstract expressionism seum exhibition of acclaimed sively to Asian art. Free first Su soldiers who died in World One of the few museums of After a three-year hiatus, This contemporary art center to provocative multimedia New York artists in Moscow. of each month. Closed M. 200 DE YOUNG MUSEUM War I. The collection includes its kind in the country, MCD SFMOMA has unveiled a highlights multicultural issues work by emerging artists. International shipping is avail- Larkin St., 415.581.3500. Founded in 1895, the impres- works by European masters develops and presents un- Snohetta-led expansion that through the artworks dis- The film archive has more able. Closed Su, M. 361 Sutter sively varied museum is cur- and major holdings of Rodin conventional and compelling makes it the largest modern played in its two main gallery than 450 public screenings St., 415.421.7770. CHINESE CULTURE CENTER rently housed in an architec- sculptures. The grounds offer exhibitions of contemporary art space in the nation, easily spaces, high-tech gallery and each year of rare and restored OF SAN FRANCISCO tural masterpiece designed spectacular views of the work in craft and design. The housing entire floors of ab- video screening room. Past movie classics, new and his- WEINSTEIN GALLERY A non-profit organization fos- by the Swiss firm Herzog and Pacific Ocean, Golden Gate exquisite Museum Store fea- stract American art and min- exhibits have focused on the toric foreign films and experi- This gallery’s collection is tering the understanding and de Meuron. It showcases col- Bridge and San Francisco. tures jewelry, toys, ceramics imalist and pop art. There’s Dalai Lama, Anna Halprin and mental cinema. 2155 Center St., dedicated to rare works of appreciation of Chinese and lections from the Americas, Closed M. 100 34th Ave. in and more. Its full calendar of an entire gallery devoted to the political nature of con- 510.642.0808. 20th century masters includ- Chinese-American art, history Pacific Islands and Africa and Lincoln Park, 415.750.3600. public programs is part of the Alexander Calder, with a focus temporary women’s art. 701 ing Picasso, Chagall, Calder and culture in the United features a tower observation blossoming Dogpatch neigh- on his work between the Mission St., 415.978.2787. BUBBLE STREET GALLERY and Miró. It represents several States. 750 Kearny St., 3rd fl., deck. Free general admission THE MEXICAN MUSEUM borhood’s art scene. Closed 1920s and 1960s. The Pritzker From the bizarre to the ro- important artists’ estates from 415.986.1822. first Tu of each month. Closed Founded in 1975 to showcase M. 2569 3rd St., 415.773.0303. Center for Photography ded- BAY AREA mantic, Bubble Street Gallery the schools of early non-ob- M. 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr., the aesthetic expression of icates about 15,000 square BAMPFA offers an eclectic mix of fine jective painting, Surrealism CONTEMPORARY JEWISH 415.750.3600. the Latino, Chicano, Mexican MUSEUM OF THE AFRICAN feet to photography, more UC Berkeley’s visual-arts arts and crafts. Contemporary and Abstract Expressionism, MUSEUM and Mexican-American peo- DIASPORA than any other U.S. art muse- center reopened early 2016 surrealist Daniel Merriam’s as well as a collection of con- Located in a stunning Daniel LEGION OF HONOR ple, The Mexican Museum This recently renovated um. The open-ceiling seventh after a $112 million renova- collection of paintings, prints, temporary figurative painters. Libeskind-designed building, High on the headlands above holds a permanent collection cultural institution reminds floor houses nothing but con- tion by world-renowned ceramics, jewelry and more 349 Geary St., 415.362.8155. the CJM engages audiences the Golden Gate—where the of over 16,000 artworks, visitors that Africa is the temporary art. Nearly 45,000 firm Diller Scofidio + Renfro, reflect a variety of styles rang- of all ages and backgrounds Pacific Ocean spills into the including colonial, pre-His- birthplace of humankind square feet of the museum’s known for for projects including from Steampunk to Neo- MUSEUMS through dynamic exhibitions San Francisco Bay—stands panic, popular, modern and and celebrates the global ground floor galleries are free ing NYC’s elevated High Line Victorian and pop surrealism. ASIAN ART MUSEUM and programs that explore this grand museum, the gift of contemporary art. 2 Marina contributions of people of and open to the public, and park and LA’s Broad Museum. 565 Bridgeway Blvd., Sausalito, Home to more than 18,000 contemporary perspectives Alma de Bretteville Spreckels Blvd., Bldg D, 415.202.9700. African decent. 685 Mission admission is free for visitors The 83,000 square-foot mu- 415.339.0506. exquisite art objects span- on Jewish culture, history, to the city of San Francisco. A St., 415.358.7200. 18 and under. 151 3rd St., seum includes an expansive ning 6,000 years of history art and ideas. Closed W. $8 three-quarter-scale adapta- 415.357.4000. permanent collection with a and culture throughout Th after 5 pm. Free first Tu of tion of the 18th-century Palais dynamic schedule of rotating  Asia,Where this museumad FINAL is one 2_Layout of 1 11/22/17 2:13 PM Page 1 de la Légion d’Honneur in art exhibitions that range

ALEX KATZ New Works

BALDESSARI BLECKNER DILL LICHTENSTEIN MATISSE SULTAN VENET WARHOL

Wildflowers 2017, 40 x 50 in. signed by the artist MEYEROVICH GALLERY 251 Post Street Suite 400 San Francisco 415.421.7171 [email protected] www.meyerovich.com © Alex Katz, 2017

40 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 41 Scene

Fairy Tale Ballet While the San Francisco Ballet has plenty of contemporary, innovative works on this season’s lineup, they aren’t neglecting the classics. “The Sleeping Beauty” (Jan. 3-Feb. 4) is one of the full-length story ballets on the schedule. It’s the story of a princess in a spell-induced sleep and true love’s kiss that has made so many generations swoon. This production of Tchaikovsky’s work features elaborate sets and shows off the company’s classical skill. War

Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave., 415.621.6600

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BENJAMIN COOPER located in a site that’s served vintage décor includes type- ALEMBIC Located within Hotel G in as a San Francisco watering writers and archived news Offering a long list of both Union Square, this intimate hole since 1907. Sip on careful- clippings that let you relive classic cocktails and original and contemporary oyster bar ly crafted classic cocktails and San Francisco’s past, and even concoctions, this Haight with a vintage San Francisco nibble on turn-of-the-century the waitresses are dressed in Ashbury restaurant and bar feel is for the serious cocktail saloon fare. 155 Columbus time-period perfect outfits. is a great place to try some- aficionados. 398 Geary St., Ave., 415.617.0071. And the drinks are equally thing new, like the Blood and 415.654.5061. on point: highballs, Gibsons Sand. Homemade brews and EL TECHO and other updated classics local food are the specialty, BIERGARTEN Located in the Mission rule here. 691 Market St., making it a true San Francisco Located in Hayes Valley, this District, this expansive roof- 415.795.1375. experience. 1725 Haight St., traditional beer garden offers top bar offers sweeping views 415.666.0822. a variety of German beers of the city skyline. Drinks MIKKELLER BAR on tap and serves up locally range from pisco-based cock- Located on the ground floor ANCHOR DISTILLING sourced food like sausages tails to esoteric Brazilian beer. of a 1907 Victorian building, COMPANY and salaten—all to be en- Dig into tasty nibbles like em- this beer bar features 40 You may already be familiar joyed alfresco. 424 Octavia St., panadas, ceviche and meat taps from some of the best with the historic Anchor 415.252.9289. skewers or visit the down- breweries in the world, two Brewing Company, but you stairs dining room for a more cask handles, exclusive house probably didn’t know that BURRITT ROOM serious, meat-focused menu. beers and a full kitchen serv- the iconic brewery is also the Named after the Nob Hill 2516 Mission St., 415.550.6970. ing up tasty bar bites that home of Anchor Distilling alley off Bush Street that was pair perfectly with beer. The Company. Established in the scene of the murder in LI PO COCKTAIL LOUNGE cellar is home to the Tivoli 1993 as a top secret project, “The Maltese Falcon,” the This cavernous watering hole Sour Room, where lambics Anchor Distilling Company Burritt Room at the Mystic is a quintessential Chinatown and sour beers are on tap. 34 has recently opened its doors Hotel brings well-crafted dive with cheap leather Mason St., 415.984.0279. to the public with the launch cocktails to the Union Square booths, a dusty jukebox and of a new tasting room. The neighborhood. Pull up a red shiny golden Buddha’s be- MONK’S KETTLE company offers a one-hour, velvet bar stool and watch as hind the bar. But the drinks This cozy Mission gastropub intimate tasting experience, expert mixologists shake and are strong and the experience specializes in craft beer, in which a beverage expert stir some of the best drinks is unique. 916 Grant Ave., serving 24 draughts and over guides you through Anchor’s around, like the Smoked 415.982.0072. 120 bottles of Belgian and production process and Peach and Weissen Sour. 417 Californian brews. The kitchen helps you explore the flavors Stockton St., in the Mystic Hotel, LOCAL EDITION is open every night until 1 am and aromas of Anchor spirits, 415.400.0561. Beneath Market Street, the for upscale pub food. Be pre- including Old Potrero 18th local bar superstars behind pared to wait—they do not Century Whiskey, Hophead COMSTOCK SALOON Bourbon & Branch have cre- take reservations. 3141 16th St., vodka, Genevieve gin and Named after Henry Comstock ated this classy underground 415.865.9523. more. Reserve ahead. 1705 and the famed Comstock cocktail bar that provides Mariposa St., 415.863.8350. Lode, which brought mining a sophisticated addition to MR. TIPPLE’S RECORDING fortunes to the City by the the city’s nightlife scene. STUDIO Bay, this bar is a throwback to Inspired by the 1950s and This spirit-driven jazz bar with

the city’s Barbary Coast era, ’60s newspaper industry, the bar bites is tucked away in a TOMASSON ©ERIK

42 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 Scene SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Scene cozy back alley of the city’s 999 California St., 19th fl., elevated comfort food along performances to the stage tivism. It continues to inspire senting critically-acclaimed from emerging artists in an wine bar offers a complex and Mid-Market neighborhood. 415.616.6916. with specialty cocktails. 3176 each season. War Memorial through performances and works in an intimate setting intimate theater space. 1062 satisfying bouquet of flavors The bar features live jazz 17th St., 415.863.2695. Opera House, 301 Van Ness involvement in human rights, that allows the audience Valencia St., 415.282.3055. for the discerning palate. The nightly with no cover, a sharp TRICK DOG Ave., 415.864.3330. empowerment and inclusive- to really connect with the staff is knowledgeable, the at- list of rotating cocktails and Local bar stars The Bon BREWERIES ness, establishing it as an icon performance, whether it’s a URBAN WINERIES mosphere unpretentious and under-$10 snacks. On your Vivants opened this hot 21ST AMENDMENT BREWERY SAN FRANCISCO SYMPHONY among LGBT organizations. world premiere or an invig- BLUXOME STREET WINERY the menu thorough. Come first visit, try the Dizzy cocktail spot in the Mission District, Within walking distance of Founded in 1911, the sympho- 526 Castro St., 415.865.3650. orated classic. 450 Post St., Located in the heart of the taste with someone you’re (East India sherry, terroir gin, focusing on hand-crafted, in- AT&T ballpark, this brewpub ny is widely considered to be 415.677.9596. SoMa neighborhood, this trying to impress or just nestle cynar) and the catfish po boy ventive drinks and late-night is a fun place to visit before or among the country’s most SFJAZZ CENTER destination is both a working with friends in a cozy alcove. (cabbage slaw, tartar sauce, nibbles. The converted ware- after a Giants game. The airy, artistically adventurous art This is the first stand-alone SHN winery and a place to relax 408 Merchant St., 415.674.3567. side of hand-cut Cajun fries). house space features a dimly multi-level SoMa space deliv- institutions, well known for its performance venue of its kind For more than 30 years, this and enjoy a drink or two. 39 Fell St., 415.851.8561. lit, downstairs bar with retro ers reasonably priced, home- acclaimed conductor Michael in the country built specifical- has been the preeminent the- The tasting room features BAY AREA decor, and a small, loft-like res- brewed beer in unique flavors Tilson Thomas. Louise M. ly for jazz. The 35,000-square- atrical entertainment compa- expansive windows looking GRATON RESORT & CASINO PLAYERS SPORTS GRILL & taurant upstairs serving mul- alongside dependable stand- Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van foot glass structure seating ny in San Francisco, owning into the working winery, The behemoth $825 million, ARCADE ticultural elevated bar food. ards like cheeseburgers and Ness Ave., 415.864.6000. 300 to 700 people, located in and operating two of the allowing you to enjoy a flight 340,000-square-foot resort is This waterfront sports bar 3010 20th St., 415.471.2999. house-made chili. The wa- bustling Hayes Valley a block city’s major venues: the his- of wine while watching the home to 3,000 slot and video features more than 35 HDTVs, termelon wheat beer, served LIVE MUSIC from Davies Symphony Hall, toric Orpheum and Golden crafting process. 53 Bluxome poker machines, over 100 200 sports channels, 85 VESUVIO alongside a slice of watermel- BOOM BOOM ROOM boasts the acoustic qualities Gate theaters. It delivers a St., 415.543.5353. ; 900 North table games and an elegant arcade games and 15 beers This historic North Beach on, is a customer favorite. 563 Self-proclaimed as “San of a great concert hall and the range of theatrical experi- Point St.,. dedicated poker room. As on tap. The menu offers bar dive bar, fittingly located 2nd St., 415.369.0900. Francisco’s home to blues, relaxed intimacy of a jazz club. ences: original Broadway cast much a dining as a gaming bites and American fare. Luau just next door to City Lights boogie, soul, groove and 201 Franklin St., 866.920.5299. productions, pre-Broadway WINE BARS destination, the complex Lounge, located inside, is San Bookstore, used to quench THIRSTYBEAR BREWING CO. funk,” this sultry hot spot world premieres and current AMELIE packs in about a dozen eat- Francisco’s only waterfront the thirst of Jack Kerouac and The oldest brewery-restau- in the heart of the famed THEATER hits fresh from Broadway. This modern French-style eries, ranging from casual tiki bar, with spectacular Neal Cassady of “On the Road” rant in the city (and the only Fillmore District is the old- AMERICAN CONSERVATORY Thanks to SHN, San Francisco wine bar has a happy hour favorites like The Habit Burger views of Alcatraz and the fame. These days, it can be organic brewery) serves est blues club west of the THEATER has launched the world-pre- that can’t be beat, offering Grill, La Fondita Taqueria and San Francisco Bay. Pier 39, packed on the weekends with house-made ales that com- Mississippi. Boogie to live Offering classical and con- mieres of “Wicked,” “Mamma a $10 customized flight with Boathouse Asian Noodles 415.981.6300. a healthy mixture of locals plement Spanish-inspired cui- music seven nights a week. temporary theater produc- Mia!,” “Legally Blonde” and any three wines by the glass. to high-end options like and tourists. 255 Columbus sine, with dishes served pri- 1601 Fillmore St., 415.673.8000. tions, the A.C.T. is a large, high- more. It kicked off the na- Try the thoughtfully paired Tony’s of North Beach and SMUGGLER’S COVE Ave., 415.362.3370. marily in tapas-sized portions. ly respected nonprofit theater tional tours of “Jersey Boys,” small plates to complement 630 Park Steakhouse. 288 Golf Taste the past, present and There’s also a full bar and pool BOTTOM OF THE HILL company located just outside “Avenue Q” and the 2008 Tony your wine. 1754 Polk St., Course Dr. W, Rohnert Park, future of rum here, from tradi- WHITECHAPEL tables and darts upstairs. 661 This cramped, funky little Union Square. 405 Geary St., Award-winning revival of 415.292.6916. 707.588.7100. tional drinks of the Caribbean Featuring the largest gin Howard St., 415.974.0905. joint has been lauded by 415.749.2228. “South Pacific.” 1182 Market St., islands to classic libations of selection in North America, Rolling Stone as “the best 888.746.1799. FERRY PLAZA WINE WEILL HALL AT THE GREEN Prohibition-Era Havana to Whitechapel’s cocktail menu CLASSICAL MUSIC & place to hear live music in San BEACH BLANKET BABYLON MERCHANT MUSIC CENTER exotic cocktails from legend- celebrates the history and DANCE Francisco.” Open seven nights No trip to San Francisco is THE SPEAKEASY Attached to the store of the Located on the Sonoma ary tiki bars. Modeled after traditions of this versatile SAN FRANCISCO BALLET a week and showcasing an complete without seeing The experimental Boxcar same name, this wine bar State University campus in both a pirate ship and a tiki spirit. The extensive drink America’s oldest professional array of styles from hard rock Steve Silver’s “Beach Blanket Theatre Company re- offers visitors the oppor- wine country, this is a world- hut and featuring a waterfall, offerings are by no means ballet company performed and punk to folk and pop, Babylon,” the hilariously launched its 2014 hit, “The tunity to sample a rotating class indoor-outdoor music this bar offers a whole new limited to gin, and the food one of the first American the Bottom comes equipped campy revue that has been Speakeasy,” in a brand new selection of 15-20 wines. Grab complex hosting perfor- approach to rum, showcasing menu features pub fare and productions of both “Swan with a full bar, pool tables, a local favorite since 1974, North Beach venue last year. some cheese from Cowgirl mances by symphonies and more than 400 varieties from several Indian dishes. 600 Polk Lake” and “The Nutcracker,” as and a kitchen staff that stays known for its hats and wigs After a $2 million renova- Creamery, a loaf of bread from renowned artists like Itzhak around the world, including St., 415.292.5800. well as the first 20th century up as late as you do. 1233 17th and spoofs of current events tion, the two-story circular Acme Bakery, a seat at the bar Perlman, Lang Lang, Renée rare and vintage finds. The “American Coppélia.” A vital St., 415.626.4455. and celebrities in ever-evolv- cabaret space complete and let the knowledgeable Fleming, Herbie Hancock, Yo drink menu includes more BOWLING ensemble, it is one of the ing numbers. Persons under with secret passageways guide you. 1 Ferry Building, Yo Ma and many more. 1801 than 70 cocktails made from LUCKY STRIKE BOWLING three largest ballet compa- FEINSTEIN’S 21 not admitted to evening and disguised entrances is 415.391.9400. East Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, premium spirits and liqueurs, For a less conventional night nies in the United States. War Located within the Hotel performances. 678 Green St., the perfect venue for this 866.955.6040. house-made ingredients out, try Lucky Strike, which Memorial Opera House, 301 Nikko San Francisco, this ele- 415.421.4222. immersive theater experience PRESS CLUB and fresh citrus juiced in- offers drinks, DJs and bowl- Van Ness Ave., 415.861.5600. gant, intimate, 140-seat night- that has been compared Located in the luxurious cellar SWEETWATER MUSIC HALL house daily. 650 Gough St., ing for the 21+ crowd. Lucky club is operated in partner- NEW CONSERVATORY to San Francisco’s famous space of the Four Seasons The hall has played host to 415.869.1900. Strike is not your average SAN FRANCISCO ship with multi-platinum-sell- THEATER CENTER Beach Blanket Babylon. This Hotel, this chic urban tasting such superstars as Carlos bowling alley, with a luxurious CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC ing entertainer Michael NCTC produces theater that year, the company unveiled room offers a wine country Santana, Jerry Garcia and TOP OF THE MARK vintage-mod interior, a 40- This professional school in the Feinstein and presents a wide gives voice to, entertains its newest offering, a show experience right in the mid- Elvis Costello, and now it A Nob Hill landmark, this sky foot bar and giant projection Civic Center neighborhood range of local, regional and and promotes exploration titled “A Night at the Palace,” dle of the city, uncorking an welcomes artists playing lounge perched on the 19th screens. Make sure to stop by offers an array of musical national entertainers. 222 and open dialogue among which features a variety of array of wines direct from everything from New Orleans floor of the InterContinental for happy hour, with reduced programs, many of them Mason St., 866.663.1060. underserved audiences and cabaret acts and is set in the acclaimed California winer- jive to Latin funk genres of Mark Hopkins hotel affords prices for drinks and half off free to the public. 50 Oak St., developing playwrights in same Prohibition underworld ies. It features social sipping music. 19 Corte Madera Ave., wraparound vistas of the city, the menu, M-F 4-7 pm. 200 415.864.7326. SAN FRANCISCO GAY MEN’S the community. 25 Van Ness as “The Speakeasy.” 644 lounges, rare and specialty Mill Valley, 415.388.3850. including views of the Golden King St., 415.400.8260. CHORUS Ave., 415.861.8972. Broadway St., 415.967.2227. beers on tap and light bites Gate Bridge, Marin Headlands, SAN FRANCISCO OPERA For 40 years, the San Francisco for delicious pairings. 20 Yerba Alcatraz, Fisherman’s Wharf MISSION BOWLING CLUB Located in the historic War Gay Men’s Chorus has been SF PLAYHOUSE THE MARSH Buena Ln., 415.744.5000. and the sparkling skyline at This boutique bowling alley Memorial Opera House since an international standard Located on the second floor Best known for its provoca- night. Don’t miss the famed offers six lanes (with automat- 1932, this is the second largest bearer for a powerful mix of of the charming Kensington tive one-person shows, this THE HIDDEN VINE 100 Martinis menu. Live ic scoring) and leather sofas, opera company in North extraordinary musical excel- Park Hotel, this theater breeding ground for new Like a fine Zinfandel, this music several nights a week. and the kitchen serves up America, bringing exciting lence and mission-driven ac- company is dedicated to pre- performance hosts new work sophisticated Jackson Square

44 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 45 Food

Neighborhood Favorite Canela Bistro & Wine Bar, a dim and sexy Spanish tapas restaurant in the Castro, is a labor of love from a well-traveled neighborhood couple, chef Mat Schuster (who might stop by your table to say hello) and wine expert Paco Cifuentes. The atmosphere oozes modern Iberian romance, with an attentively curated wine list, dramatic organic decor elements and tables delicately The Franciscan Crab Restaurant is the crown jewel of Pier 43 ½ | 415.362.7733 arranged with candles and flowers. 2272 Fisherman’s Wharf and has the best food that the wharf has to offer. franciscancrabrestaurant.com It sits right on the water with the picture perfect view of Alcatraz and Market St., 415.552.3000 the Golden Gate Bridge.

CASTRO/UPPER Reservations” host Anthony best of San Francisco’s cur- ZUNI CAFE MARKET Bourdain visited the restau- rent food scene. One of the Mediterranean Three words: CANELA BISTRO rant on his show and raved city’s best late-night dining Get the chicken. This San AND WINE BAR about the salt and pepper options, it’s also popular Francisco institution has been Spanish/Tapas This elegant crab. L, D (daily). 631 Kearny St., for its brunch, burger and in business for more than restaurant in the Castro 415.982.7877. $$ pork chops. Brunch (Sa-Su), 35 years and is most famous neighborhood serves tra- D (nightly until 1 am). 560 for its cooked-to-order roast ditional tapas and modern CIVIC CENTER/HAYES Divisadero St., 415.864.8643. chicken for two (allow an Spanish dishes, sourcing VALLEY $$$ hour), a true stand-out on ingredients from sustainable ALTA CA the Mediterranean-inspired California markets, farms New American Wind down at RICH TABLE menu of roasted and grilled and fisheries. The wine list is this modern bar and restau- American Named one of goodness. Watch the vintage carefully curated to pair with rant, which offers specialty the country’s top 50 new street cars roll down Market the extensive menu, and the cocktails, a great hamburger restaurants by Bon Appetit Street through the floor-to- dim, thoughtfully decorated and crunchy beef tendon magazine in 2012, this James ceiling windows while you dining room has a romantic puffs that melt in your mouth. Beard Award-nominated hot wait. Brunch (Su), L, D (daily), feel. Brunch (Su), D (nightly), The atmosphere is almost as spot is owned by a husband- closed M. 1658 Market St., closed M. 2272 Market St., good as the food, with a floor- and-wife team who serve 415.552.2522. $$$ Osso Steakhouse, voted #1 steak in the country 1177 California at Jones on Nob Hill | 415.771.6776 415.552.3000. to-ceiling industrial metal unfussy, market-driven food Free Valet Parking ossosteakhouse.com bookcase lining the back in a lively atmosphere. Must- FINANCIAL DISTRICT FRANCES wall and local artwork. 1420 order items include innova- ONE MARKET California Serving modern Market St., 415.590.2585. tive snacks like sardine chips American This ever-pop- California cuisine in a neigh- and porcini doughnuts and ular restaurant on the borhood setting, acclaimed ESPETUS BRAZILIAN STEAK creative cocktails. D (daily). 199 Embarcadero waterfront Frances serves delights like HOUSE Gough St., 415.355.9085. $$$ across from the Ferry Building chestnut soup with roasted Steaks Pace yourself: This au- offers contemporary pres- ciopollini and house-cured thentic Brazilian steakhouse SOUVLA entations of American classics pancetta; slow-roasted beef offers all-you-can-eat skewers Greek Located in the heart of from chef/partner Mark with creamed winter greens; (“espetus” in Portuguese) Hayes Valley, this Greek sand- Dommen, showcasing farm- and ling cod crusted with of slow-roasted beef, lamb, wich shop is inspired by the fresh ingredients, heritage Boccalone lardo, squash and pork, chicken and shrimp for casual neighborhood souv- meats, artisanal cheeses and apples. D (nightly). 3870 17th a fixed price. The giant salad laki joints found throughout an all-American wine list. 1 St., 415.621.3870. $$$ buffet is included. L, D (daily). Greece. The sandwiches Market St., 415.777.5577. $$$ 1686 Market St., 415.552.8792. are made with spit-roasted CHINATOWN $$$ ; 710 S B St., San Mateo, all-natural meats on warm SCHROEDER’S R&G LOUNGE 650.342.8700. pita bread with spiced yogurt German Founded in 1893, the Chinese This bustling spot sauces and fresh herb salads. most recent iteration of this has a colorful lounge and NOPA The “Greek fries” are spiked traditional German beer hall cheerful, modest decor in American Named for its loca- with Mizithra cheese, orega- is from the team behind one the dining room downstairs. tion North of the Panhandle, no, olive oil and sea salt. 517 of the city’s most successful The Hong Kong-style menu this expansive, hip restaurant Hayes St., 415.400.5458. wine bars, Press Club. The vast The Stinking Rose: A Garlic Restaurant 325 Columbus Avenue in North Beach | 415.781.7673 includes tank-fresh seafood. serves wood-fired rustic 5,000 square-foot space now thestinkingrose.com

The Travel Channel’s “No cuisine that epitomizes the has a modern feel, yet it still CANELA COURTESY

46 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco oozes character, with 1930s- in-your-mouth blueberry HOG ISLAND OYSTER homage to the neighbor- era Herman Richter murals pancakes to gravy-smothered COMPANY hood’s legendary jazz history. adorning the walls. The front biscuits. The outside patio is Seafood This lively and attrac- Gospel Brunch on Sundays. area is a casual drink hall a great spot to enjoy a break tive waterfront spot in the D (nightly). 1300 Fillmore St., serving bar bites, and beyond from city life. B, L (daily), D (Sa- Ferry Building is known for 415.771.7100. $$$ that is a dining room with a Su). 380 Beach St., 415.867.1711. its happy hours and uncon- full menu of Bavarian classics $$ ventional, exceptional clam THE PROGRESS with a California sensibility. chowder with whole manila New American Named after The impressive beer offerings, BISTRO BOUDIN clams and a light, flavorful the Progress Theater that selected by a master cice- American Seasonal cuisine broth. Although fresh raw occupied the same build- rone—are mostly German and sourdough-crust piz- oysters are the star, the po’ ing over a century ago, this and available on draft. L zas dominate the menu at boy sandwich, grilled cheese is the second restaurant (M-F), D (M-Sa). 240 Front St., the famed bread-maker’s and grilled oysters also shine. from the team behind the 415.421.4778. two–story flagship facility, L, D (daily). 1 Ferry Building, national smash-hit State Bird which also houses a sour- 415.391.7117. $$ Provisions, and it’s located WAYFARE TAVERN dough-bread museum and just next door. The boundary American Step inside celebrity an exhibition bakery and a JACKSON SQUARE busting, international menu is chef Tyler Florence’s hand- café and gourmet market COTOGNA served family style (choose six some three-story restaurant downstairs. Saddle up to the Italian This casual cousin to dishes for $62 per person) and and be transported back in gorgeous oyster bar for fresh the acclaimed two Michelin features dishes like lamb mer- time. Built with bricks sal- oysters, baked and topped star Quince restaurant next guez with yellow eye beans, vaged from the streets of the with mignonette or shucked door opened under the same octopus and crispy squid. If devastated city after the 1906 and served straight up. L, chef-owners. The rustic Italian you don’t manage to snag a quake, the eatery channels D (daily). 160 Jefferson St., eatery serves a seasonally reservation, the bar is walk-in the Barbary Coast era with 415.351.5561. $$ changing menu that features only. The Progress is a 2015 American fare inspired by spit-roasted meats and game James Beard Award winner. the San Francisco restaurant THE BUENA VISTA CAFE birds, wood-oven pizzas, 1525 Fillmore St., 415.673.1294. scene of the late 1800s. The American This wharf institu- house-made pastas and menu features a raw bar and tion by the Hyde Street cable fresh local seafood. All wine MARINA/COW HOL- dishes like grilled sardines, car turnaround is famous for bottles on the prix fixe wine LOW salt-roasted bone marrow, first introducing Irish coffee menu are under $40, and A16 organic fried chicken and the to the U.S. in 1952, and it has the floor-to-ceiling windows Italian This Marina neighbor- classic Hangtown Fry. Don’t served millions of the hot afford abundant natural light hood hot spot combines the miss the banana pudding for cocktails since. B, L, D (daily). and dramatic views of the cuisine of Campania with the dessert and the hand-craft- 2765 Hyde St., 415.474.5044. $$ Transamerica Building. L (M- pizzas of Naples and pours ed cocktails. L, D (daily). 558 Sa), D (nightly). 490 Pacific Ave., small-production wines Sacramento St., 415.772.9060. CASTAGNOLA’S 415.775.8508. $$ from California and Southern $$$ Seafood & Steak In a dramatic Italy. L (W-F), D (nightly). 2355 setting by the waters of San QUINCE Chestnut St., 415.771.2216. $$$ FISHERMAN’S Francisco Bay, diners can still Italian Elegant without WHARF/WATERFRONT watch fishermen bringing being stuffy, this intimate ATELIER CRENN ALIOTO’S their boats to dock and un- two Michelin star restaurant French This modern upscale Seafood One of San Francisco’s loading the day’s catch. The with a superb wine list serves restaurant from the world’s oldest restaurants run by one menu here features fresh sophisticated Italian fare, such only two Michelin-star female of the city’s most prominent seafood, steaks and chops. as a silky ricotta-filled ravioli in chef blends the line between families, this Fisherman’s Don’t miss daily happy hour butter sauce and sole roasted food and art, presenting Wharf landmark has mag- and live music throughout on a fig leaf. A five-course garden-centric dishes that are nificent views of the San the week. 286 Jefferson St., tasting menu is available, and as pleasing to the eye as they Francisco Bay and a reputa- 415.776.5015. $$$ dining a la carte is also an op- are to the palate and menus tion for great cioppino and tion. D (nightly), closed Su. 470 that read like poetry. Giving fresh seafood. Don’t mess FRANCISCAN CRAB Pacific Ave., 415.775.8500. $$$$ center stage to the food, the around with the menu: Get RESTAURANT 40-seat dining room has an the Dungeness crab. Cracked, Seafood Floor-to-ceiling win- JAPANTOWN/LOWER earthy, minimalist appearance caked, stuffed or stewed, it’s dows provide spectacular FILLMORE with teak tables, fig trees and impossible to get your fill. L, bay views from every table 1300 ON FILLMORE glass orbs that provide soft D (daily). 8 Fisherman’s Wharf, in this three-tiered, spacious American This spot in the lighting. Diners can select 415.673.0183. $$ mid-century modern gem. heart of the Fillmore District from one of two multi-course Menu highights include fish serves up soulful American tasting menus. D (Tu-Sa). 3127 BEACH STREET GRILL and chips, sizzling iron skillet cuisine. Signature dishes Fillmore St., 415.440.0460. $$$$ ORGANIC RESTAURANT mussels and whole roasted include black skillet-fried American Known for its warm Dungeness crab. Free parking organic chicken, shrimp and MISSION DISTRICT hospitality and all-day break- with validation. L, D (daily). Pier grits and maple syrup slow- CENTRAL KITCHEN fast, the key word at this diner 43 1/2, 415.362.7733. $$$ braised short ribs. Don’t miss California The creative minds is homemade, from melt- the Heritage Wall paying behind the wildly popular

48 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Food

Flour + Water restaurant left FOREIGN CINEMA otic fruit relish and spicy aioli. meats and seafood. On clear NORTH BEACH Italian food behind in this California Never was the old 974 Valencia St., 415.643.5656. evenings, gather friends BETTY LOU’S SEAFOOD & venture, instead focusing on dinner-and-a-movie done so and enjoy the large table GRILL Northern California cuisine. artfully, or so deliciously. The MISSION CHINESE FOOD on Tawla’s back patio. 206 Seafood A warm, friendly eat- The succinct, frequently up- vast, bohemian-chic space Chinese Named one of the top Valencia St., 415.814.2704. ery with an Italian flair, Betty dated menu features simple, suits the always excellent 10 restaurants in the country Lou’s is best known for its fresh preparations of locally California-Mediterranean cui- by GQ Magazine in 2012, this NOB HILL cioppino, San Francisco’s sea- sourced meats and seasonal sine. A heated, covered patio trendy spot operating out of OSSO STEAKHOUSE food stew filled with succu- produce. Dishes may include screens a rotation of classic, the former Lung Shan serves Steaks This swanky, sprawling lent Dungeness crab, prawns, chilled tomato soup; seared foreign and independent fiery Szechuan-influenced, steakhouse with a striking scallops, clams, mussels and squid with avocado, celery films projected onto one of Americanized Chinese food Art Deco interior is located calamari as well as Mike’s and pine nut mousse; and three walls, and speakers on from rock-star chef Danny just across the street from Wok Crab, a wok-tossed con- slow baked halibut with each table allow you to adjust Bowien. The music is loud, the Grace Cathedral in the sto- coction of Dungeness crab, fried mussels, tomatoes and the volume. Meandering servers are cool and the Ma ried Nob Hill neighborhood. ginger, scallions, red peppers nasturtium. The airy, spacious through the changing ex- Po Tofu is deliciously scream- Menu standouts include and soy sauce. If seafood dining room and patio exude hibits in the adjacent gallery ing hot at this popular alter- dry-aged steaks and buttery isn’t your thing, try the juicy rustic warmth. Brunch (Su), is the perfect way to wait native to traditional Chinese Dungeness crab. D (nightly). 16-ounce bone-in ribeye or D (nightly). 3000 20th St., for a table. Brunch (Sa-Su), food. Expect a wait, but the 1177 California St., 415.771.6776. chicken piccata. 318 Columbus 415.826.7004. $$$ D (nightly). 2534 Mission St., food is well worth it. L, D $$$ Ave., 415.757.0569. 415.648.7600. $$$ (daily), closed W. 2234 Mission CRAFTSMAN & WOLVES St., 415.863.2800. $ SWAN OYSTER DEPOT CAFE ZOETROPE Bakery This modern and sleek LAZY BEAR Seafood Founded in 1912, this Italian Owned by legendary patisserie in the hip Valencia New American This popular NAMU GAJI seafood market and oyster film director and winemaker corridor from James Beard- Mission District restaurant Korean Started by three broth- bar is a San Francisco institu- Francis Ford Coppola, this nominated chef William describes itself as a “modern ers, this elegant yet casual tion. There’s almost always a neighborhood Italian restau- Werner features a rotating American fine-dining dinner spot serves creative dishes wait at this intimate, 18-stool rant is named after his famous menu of breakfast pastries, party.” It started as an under- with as much Korean as oyster bar, but you’ll be reproduction company and cakes, confections, confitures, ground venue in 2009 and California influence. Popular warded with a pint of Anchor WWW.CAFÉZOETROPE.COM | (415) 291-1700 located in the same steel- desserts, lunch and other opened its first permanent dishes include the vegeta- Steam beer and a lunch of framed structure, the Sentinel savory fare. The bakery is location in 2014. The tasting ble-focused okonomiyaki, a dozen oysters on the half Building. L, D (daily). 916 famous for the Rebel Within, menu changes weekly and beef tongue served with shell. L (M-Sa), closed Su. 1517 Kearny St., 415.291.1700. $$ a savory breakfast muffin ranges from $100-150 per summer squash and chili oil Polk St., 415.673.2757. $$$ with asiago cheese, green person and features about and a burger served with FIOR D’ITALIA onion and breakfast sausage 12 courses. Past menus fea- kimchee relish and hand-cut NOE VALLEY Italian Dubbed America’s baked into the mix and a tured dishes like halibut with fries. D (Tu-Sa), Br (W-Su). 499 CONTIGO oldest Italian restaurant, Fior full soft-cooked farm egg in asparagus, Perigord truffle Dolores St., 415.431.6268. Spanish/Tapas Changing d’Italia has been serving the center. 746 Valencia St., and fingerling potatoes; and nightly, the menu at this be- authentic Northern Italian 415.913.7713. 1643 Pacific Ave., lamb with mustards, farro TARTINE BAKERY & CAFE loved California-style tapas cuisine since 1886. It has has 415.855.1414. and garum. 3416 19th St., Dessert/Coffee This popular spot in Noe Valley highlights more than 20 varieties of 415.874.9921. artisan bakery serves fresh- the Bay Area’s farmers, ranch- pastas to choose from, most DELFINA from-the-oven pastries all ers, fishermen and artisans. of them made in-house. Italian This bustling neigh- LITTLE STAR PIZZA day, as well as pies, cakes, The sleek design and friendly L, D (daily). 2237 Mason St., borhood trattoria is a local Italian Famous for its artisan bread and coffee. service make for a festive 415.986.1886. $$ favorite that pioneered San deep dish, Chicago-style Breakfast quiches, gourmet evening. Pick a glass of spar- HANDCRAFTED Francisco’s farm-to-table pizza with a slightly sweet, sandwiches, classic pastries kling Cava or Rioja from the IN SAN FRANCISCO NORTH BEACH RESTAURANT movement. It has received cornmeal crust, this place and an addictive bread pud- all-Spanish wine list and stay Italian This classic restaurant SINCE 1993 rave reviews since its opening draws a stream of addicted ding keep folks lining up. for the chocolate and churros serves generous portions in 1998 and still packs the regulars. Valencia St.: L, D B, L (daily). 600 Guerrero St., dessert. D (nightly), closed M. of hearty Tuscan cuisine house (and outdoor patio) (daily). Divisadero St.: L (F-Su), 415.487.2600. $ 1320 Castro St., 415.285.0250. from its extensive menu. each night. D (nightly). 3621 D (nightly). 400 Valencia St., $$ The award-winning wine list 18th St., 415.552.4055. $$$ 415.551.7827. 846 Divisadero St., TAWLA boasts over 500 bottles to 415.4 41.1118 . $$ Eastern Mediterranean FIREFLY pair with house specialties FLOUR + WATER Located in the Mission American Adored by locals, such as chicken al mattone Italian A haven (or heaven) LOLÓ District, Tawla is an Eastern this neighborhood spot with with Italian herbs, filet of lamb for artisan pizza and pasta Mexican Step into a world Mediterranean restaurant a homey feel has been a des- alla Bruno and cioppino alla lovers, this incredibly popular, of color and pattern when serving family-style dishes tination since its 1994 open- pescatora. The four dining welcoming spot serves ex- you visit one of the two inspired by the Levant, the ing. The food is comfortable rooms cater to a variety of oc- ceptional Neopolitan-style, locations for this eclectic region including Iran, Iraq, and creative, and vegetarians casions, from a power lunch wood-fired pizzas and house- Mexican restaurant in the Jordan, Lebanon, Palestine, will find at least two meatless to a first date. 1512 Stockton St., made pastas. D (nightly). 2401 Mission. Inspired by Jaliscan- Syria, Turkey and Greece. The main courses on every menu “Top Ten American Lunch, Dinner, 415.392.1700. $$$ Harrison St., 415.826.7000. $$$ Californian cuisine, don’t menu changes daily and in addition to multiple appe- restaurants in the U.S.” Happy hour, Live music miss the Taco Tropical, which features seasonal produce tizer options. D (nightly). 4288 – Gayot Guide ORIGINAL U.S. RESTAURANT includes jicama tortillas, as well as locally sourced, 24th St., 415.821.7652. $$$ 1 MARKET STREET, SAN FRANCISCO | 415.777.5577 | ONEMARKET.COM Italian The Original U.S. spice-dusted shrimp, an ex- sustainably-raised and caught Restaurant has been part of

50 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 51 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Food the North Beach Italian com- an upscale setting, while The BENU offers bao, har gow, Xi’an SONS & DAUGHTERS munity in San Francisco since Bistro offers a more casual ex- American This three Michelin dumplings and xiao long bao California The brainchild of the late 1890s. U.S. is actually perience, with burgers, sand- star restaurant distills fine as well as traditional, hand- two young chefs, this res- an abbreviation for Unione wiches and other California dining down to the elements rolled noodles and more. 11 taurant on the cable car line Sportiva which was the col- favorites. B, L, D (daily). 1090 most relevant to modern Division St., 415.525.4797. brings contemporary fine lection of Italian athletic clubs Point Lobos Ave., 415.386.3330. diners: exquisite ingredients, dining to Union Square. An that existed in San Francisco unique flavors, precise tech- UNION SQUARE open kitchen is centered in at that time. A family-owned OUTERLANDS nique and attentive service. FARALLON the middle of the sleek dining eatery, U.S. is popular with New American The reclaimed It offers inspired, progressive Seafood This classic Pat Kuleto room, turning out inventive locals and visitors alike for wood interior of this Outer American cuisine in a historic, restaurant in Union Square dishes like sweetbreads with its traditional Italian dishes Sunset restaurant is as cele- cleanly designed space. The has been enchanting guests lobster claw, lavender pork and authentic family recipes brated as its food. The owners a la carte menu allows for for 18 years with carefully belly and scallop with mush- from Sicily. 414 Columbus Ave., designed the space them- individualized customization, crafted details that capture rooms and veal tea. D (W-Su). 415.398.1300. selves, and a recent renova- and the tasting menu varies the life aquatic. Blending 708 Bush St., 415.391.8311. $$$ tion has made the intimate between 8-12 courses, reflect- casual and high-end coastal SOTTO MARE OYSTERIA & space formerly notorious for ing seasonality and evolution. cuisine, Farallon offers fresh VAN NESS CORRIDOR SEAFOOD RESTAURANT long lines that much more D (Tu-Sa). 22 Hawthorne St., seafood options and simple HARRIS’ STEAKHOUSE Seafood One of Tony Bennett’s accessible. The grilled cheese 415.685.4860. $$$$ raw preparations from the Steaks This iconic restaurant favorite San Francisco res- sandwich served with house- oyster bar. Beyond the wel- represents classic steakhouse taurants, Sotto Mare is an made levain bread is the BLUESTEM BRASSERIE coming spot’s dinner menu, dining, but chef Michael authentic Italian North Beach menu standout. 4001 Judah California This upscale urban find an approachable wine Buhagier adds a California experience. The seafood St., 415.661.6140. neighborhood restaurant list, one of the largest collec- sensibility, The Kobe rib eye, restaurant serves up oysters in the heart of the museum tions of single malt whiskeys cut from select Japanese and clams on the half shell, RUSSIAN HILL district is a modern interpre- in the city and inventive des- cattle reared for optimal mar- Boston-style clam chowder, STONES THROW tation of the classic American serts. D (nightly). 450 Post St., bling, has a rich and delicate baccala, crab cioppino, Louis New American This inviting brasserie. The menu features 415.956.6969. $$$ texture. A red cabernet butter salads, seafood pastas and casual-chic spot has one fresh, simple fare emphasiz- melts on its seared surface, more. Sotto Mare’s daily fresh of the city’s most talented ing a nose-to-tail cooking JOHN’S GRILL typifying a subtle flair for the fish can also be purchased restaurant teams (including philosophy. Local ingredient American Founded in 1908, unexpected. 2100 Van Ness retail if you feel like cooking three Michael Mina alums). sourcing extends to the wine this casual steakhouse is one Ave., 415.673.1888. yourself. L, D (M-Sa), close Su. The seasonal menus here list. Dishes include grass-fed of the city’s oldest restaurants, 552 Green St., 415.398.3181. are outstanding—order the beef burgers and steaks, steeped in San Francisco his- BAY AREA perfectly grilled, melt-in-your apple-fed pork with cheddar tory. It served as a setting for COPITA TEQUILERIA Y THE STINKING ROSE mouth octopus and the grits and several selections the classic book and movie, COMIDA Italian Follow your nose to puffed potato and eggs if of house-made charcuterie “The Maltese Falcon.” The Mexican Located in the heart one of the city’s most inter- they’re in the lineup. The art- and salumi. L, D (daily). 1 Yerba framed black-and-white pho- of downtown Sausalito, this esting dining experiences, fully presented desserts are Buena Ln., 415.547.1111. $$$ tographs and news clippings neighborhood restaurant where garlic is king. This playful riffs on childhood clas- hung throughout serve as and tequila bar is the vision of restaurant goes through sics, like peanut butter and DIRTY HABIT a veritable museum of San legendary restaurateur, Larry more than 5,000 pounds of jelly doughnuts. 1896 Hyde St., American Located on the fifth Francisco memorabilia. Live Mindel, and San Francisco TV the pungent ingredient each 415.796.2901. floor of Hotel Zelos, Dirty jazz every night. L, D (daily). 63 personality and cookbook month. Specialties include Habit is a sexy, glamorous Ellis St., 415.986.0069. author, Joanne Weir. Enjoy 40 clove garlic chicken, pork SOMA/CHINA BASIN bar and restaurant with a film elevated versions of seasonal chops, roasted Dungeness BAR AGRICOLE noir-inspired dining room and NEW DELHI RESTAURANT traditional Mexican cuisine crab and even garlic ice California With roots in ag- rooftop patio. While known Indian Decorated like a and inventive cocktails in cream. L, D (daily). 325 riculture, Bar Agricole (Farm for its craft cocktail menu Maharajah’s private banquet this comfortable, open Columbus Ave., 415.781.7673. Bar) is a contemporary tavern (with an emphasis on brown room, this regal restaurant space complete with an $$ serving ingredient-driven spirits) and seasonal bar bites, serves northern Indian food, outdoor patio. 739 Bridgeway, dishes, excellent wines and it also features a limited din- with recipes culled from royal Sausalito, 415.331.7400. RICHMOND/OCEAN some of the best artisan ner menu with options like menus dating back 400 years. BEACH cocktails around. Nose-to-tail Mt. Lassen trout and aged rib Chef-owner Ranjan Dey cre- THE RESTAURANT AT WENTE CLIFF HOUSE Northern California cuisine eye. 12 4th St., 415.348.1555. ates daily specials with his six VINEYARDS American Near Ocean Beach prepared with the day’s gourmet spice blends. The California Located at the and Lands End Trail, this iconic foraged produce is washed DUMPLING TIME bar has drawn downtown famous Wente Vineyards, this historic site located on a down with traditional mixed Chinese/Japanese This newly professionals since the ‘80s restaurant features California headland above the coastal drinks from spirits that opened spot in the SoMa with its Double-Happiness- wine country cuisine. Enjoy cliffs is home to two restau- celebrate the tradition of district serves up fresh- Happy Hour, 5:30-7:30 pm seasonal dishes made from rants and spectacular views farmhouse distilling or wine ly-made dumplings in both and 10 pm-midnight. Try ingredients sourced from the of the Pacific Ocean (whale from more than 20 estates. D the Japanese and Chinese the Madras Madness or Oh! vineyard’s magnificent herb and sea lion spotting is a pos- (nightly), closed M. 355 11th St., traditions. The restaurant’s Calcutta. L (M-Sa), D (nightly). and vegetable garden, along sibility) and Sutro Baths. The 415.355.9400. $$ signature dumplings are 160 Ellis St., 415.397.8470. $$ with numerous wine pairings camera obscura on the deck Japanese-style gyoza, small, for each dish. 5050 Arroyo Rd., is on the National Register of well-stuffed dumplings with Livermore, 925.456.2450. Historic Places. Sutro’s offers crispy, pan-seared skin. It also

52 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 53 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

CLIFF HOUSE SOTTO MARE Since 1863 the Cliff House has perched high on a rocky Tony Bennett says that Sotto Mare is one of his favorite bluff above the Pacific Ocean at the western edge of San places to dine in San Francisco. Located in the heart of Francisco. With unparalleled ocean views it is famous North Beach, Sotto Mare provides an authentic Italian worldwide, attracting visitors from around the globe and North Beach experience. Sotto Mare serves the freshest is a favorite destination of the locals. Offering the casual fish and shellfish in town. Oysters, Boston style clam Bistro Restaurant with San Francisco classics for breakfast, chowder, crab cioppino, Louis salads, seafood pastas, lunch, and dinner; the elegant Sutro’s at the Cliff House seafood risotto and a selection of fresh fish daily. Private with California coastal cuisine for lunch and dinner; and parties are available in our restaurant and banquet room. the famous Sunday Champagne Brunch Buffet in The We also sell our fresh fish retail. Open Monday-Saturday Terrace Room! 11:00 am -10:00 pm. 1090 Point Lobos, 415.386.3330, www.cliffhouse.com 552 Green St., San Francisco The best damn cioppino in San Francisco! 415-398-3181, www.sottomaresf.com

ALIOTO’S A NEW DELHI RESTAURANT San Francisco landmark at Fisherman’s Wharf - Alioto’s A Delicious San Francisco Experience! Chef Ranjan has serves world famous fresh Seafood & Sicilian family been serving guests from around the world at the same recipes since 1925, San Francisco’s oldest family owned location for over 30 years, creating classic and unique & run restaurant. Every table boasts a view: Golden dishes from all over India - using fresh, local ingredients. Gate Bridge, harbor, Fisherman’s Wharf & Bay. Alioto’s Voted the Best Indian Restaurant and decorated like a offers fresh Dungeness Crab year-round. Don’t miss Maharajah’s banquet room, New Delhi Restaurant has San Francisco’s Finest Calamari or their Famous Crab been a favorite for locals and visitors. Within walking Cioppino. Also visit Alioto’s Waterside Café for Clam al distance of downtown hotels, it’s ideal for a delicious meal Chowder in a sourdough bread bowl, or their outdoor or a refreshing cocktail. Join us for an experience you Crab Stand. Open daily 11am - 10pm. 2 hours free parking cannot find anywhere else! w/ validation. 8 Fisherman’s Wharf 415.673.0183 www.aliotos.com 160 Ellis St., 415.397.8470, NewDelhiRestaurant.com

SF RESTAURANT WEEK THE BEACH STREET GRILL CRAB BENEDICT…BLOODY MARY…PANCAKES W/ORGANIC BERRIES T SF Restaurant Week (January 22-31, 2018) is a celebration ORGANIC RESTAURANT O of San Francisco’s world-class dining community. Celebrating 10 years where Quality matters at The Beach More than 100 restaurants around San Francisco offer Street Grill Organic Restaurant located at Fisherman’s special priced, multi-course lunch and dinner menus. Wharf! We prepare home-made fresh and clean comfort food with Organic and Gluten free options. Come enjoy Lunch menus are offered for $15 or $25 and dinner our famous recipe of regular or gluten free pancakes menus are offered for $40 or $65. Visit an old favorite or topped with fresh organic berries and a spiked latte! or discover somewhere new, participating restaurants and a Beach Street Mary with cagefree eggs crab benedict... reservations at sfrestaurantweek.com. Sit outside with your dog, we make organic dog biscuits. Sit inside to watch sports TV. Serving the best breakfast experience all day! Open daily, 7am; take-out. Located on the F streetcar line.

380 Beach Street, Fisherman’s Wharf, 415.867.1711, sfbeachstreetgrill.com/fb/tripadvisor

54 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 55 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

BUENA VISTA CASTAGNOLA’S As rich in history as the City itself, the Buena Vista Café The birthplace of the Dungeness crab cocktail and the has served warming libations and hearty meals along oldest restaurant on Fisherman’s Wharf, Castagnola’s Fisherman’s Wharf since 1886. It’s famously known as began as a crab stand in 1916. The restaurant quickly home of the “original” Irish Coffee. Though “the BV” has became a popular destination for fresh fish and crab, and attracted celebrities and sports stars, and has featured to this day, you can still watch fishermen dock their boats in films and television, it remains an authentic and and bring in the day’s catch while you dine. In addition to welcoming favorite of locals and visitors. Still serving fresh seafood, Castagnola’s is known for its hearty steaks bountiful meals - all-day breakfasts, as well as lunch and as well as award-winning clam chowder. Enjoy live music dinner, and of course, its famous Irish Coffee. Mon-Fri: throughout the week and daily happy hour from 2-6 pm. 9am- 2am | Sat- Sun: 8am- 2am A1l-day breakfast and full 286 Jefferson St., 415.776.5015, castagnolassf.com bar. Fisherman’s Wharf, 2765 Hyde Street (at Beach St.), San Francisco, 415.474.5044, www.thebuenavista.com

ORIGINAL U.S. RESTAURANT NT URA BUSINESSHISTORIC NAMEJOHN’S GRILL Unione Sportiva, or the Original U. S. Restaurant, has been OICE ESTA CH R Alioto’sJohn’s Grill,offers a Sanone Franciscoof the most tradition spectacular since views1908, isof a must E IC SF GE part of San Francisco’s Italian community since the late RG ER CI Fisherman’swhen in the Wharf, city. It theis a favoriteGolden Gatewith localsBridge, and & the national fishing NCIE CLASS N 1890’s. This family owned eatery is a favorite spot for locals CO OR CO F EA harbor.celebrities The (mostrestaurant recently was Olympia established Dukakis, in 1928 Renee & is now and visitors alike who are looking for a genuine Italian ICK R P A Zellweger and Drew Brees), who enjoy the great steaks, BAY run by the fourth generation of the Alioto family. Alioto’s meal and a true North Beach experience. D TOP BY TE offersfresh classicseafood Italian with recipesexcellent passed service down at honest from theprices in VO Enjoy classic Italian pastas, chicken and fresh fish, plus Aliotoa casual family, atmosphere plus the freshestof dark panel seafood, walls & andof course, pictures fresh of authentic family recipes from Sicily. Dungenessold San Francisco. Crab year-round. John’s Grill Enjoy is a setting favorites in the like novel seafood “The Dining at U.S. is like being at nonna’s house on a Sunday ravioli,Maltese crab Falcon” louie and salad, was salmon featured sicilian, in Gourmet or our famous and chosen crab afternoon. Come join us at our neighborhood’s kitchen, cioppino.one of the Full Top bar 10 & by wine Esquire. list. Also Walking try Alioto’s distance Waterside from where everyone is welcome. Buon Apetito! Cafe,downtown for more hotels casual and dining theatres. indoors Private & out. banquet Alioto’s rooms 414 Columbus Ave, 415-398-1300 Restaurantare available. open Open daily Mon-Sat:11am-10pm; from 11am until 10pm Sun: & ournoon-10pm. Cafe originalusrestaurant.com from63 Ellis 10am St. atto Union10pm. Square,All major 415.986.0069, credit cards accepted, johnsgrill.com 2 0 address here 000.000.0000, www.urlhere.com

BETTY LOU’S SEAFOOD & GRILL THIRSTYBEAR ORGANIC BREWERY T A warm, friendly eatery with an Italian flair, Betty Lou’s ThirstyBear Organic, Small Batch Beers Are Available Fresh, is best known for its classic cioppino, San Francisco’s Only On-Draught, Only At ThirstyBear! ThirstyBear is San seafood stew, filled with succulent Dungeness crab, Francisco’s only Organic Brewery and a Certified Green prawns, scallops, clams, mussels and calamari. Expect Business. We offer ales, lagers, sours, cask-conditioned, to be dazzled by Mike’s Wok Crab, a concoction of and barrel-aged beers, paired with exceptional Spanish Dungeness crab, ginger, scallions, red peppers and soy tapas and paellas. ThirstyBear takes a contemporary sauce, wok-tossed with lots of love. This dish has become approach to traditional Spanish cuisine. We use organic a huge favorite. If seafood isn’t your thing, you might try ingredients and the freshest seasonal produce, seafood, the juicy 16-ounce bone-in ribeye or chicken piccata. and meats sourced from local farms. Our full bar offers Open daily artisanal cocktails, and premium California and Spanish North Beach, 318 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco wines. Open daily, lunch & dinner. 415.757.0569, bettyloussf.com 661 Howard Street, San Francisco, 415.974.0905, ThirstyBear.com

56 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 57 Wine Country SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Wine Country

Dine Through Sonoma Valley BEAULIEU VINEYARD available. Daily 10 am–5 pm. CHARBAY WINERY & CHATEAU MONTELENA Foodies, January is the perfect month to visit This more than 100-year-old 2000 Main St., St. Helena, DISTILLERY WINERY winery is the longest continu- 707.257.5771. Map 3, B3 Named for its first drink— The Napa winery whose the restaurants, tasting rooms and wineries of ally operating winery in Napa Chardonnay combined with Chardonnay earned California Valley and is the production CASTELLO DI AMOROSA brandy—Charbay now pro- wines international recog- Sonoma Valley. This farming and winemaking site for the flagship Cabernet For a one-of-a-kind experi- duces much more than just nition at the 1976 Tasting of region will be celebrating its epicurean abun- Sauvignon. Beaulieu was ence in wine country, visit wine and brandy. Discover Paris (portrayed in the movie founded on a four-acre ranch this 13th century Tuscan-style the artisan world of distilling “Bottle Shock”) is still produc- dance with Sonoma Valley Delicious! Look by a French winemaker who castle that took 15 years to many spirits like whiskey, ing great wines, like the Estate for deals on prix fixe menus and special wine envisioned a company pro- build. Authentic features vodka and rum from a fam- Cabernet, Estate Zinfandel ducing fine wine unparalleled include hand-forged Italian ily in the distillery business and the limited production and food pairings, dishes and cocktails. Deals to his native France. Daily ironwork, hand-painted fres- for 13 generations. Taste Potter Valley Riesling. Can’t include half off a paired tasting at B.R. Cohn tastings feature wines you coes, a 500-year-old fireplace, Charbay’s wines and ports, get up to wine country? can’t find anywhere else. 1960 half-ton hand-hewn doors, then enjoy a cigar in the rustic Stop by the tasting room in Winery, two reserve tastings for the price of St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford. a drawbridge, a courtyard setting of Spring Mountain. the Westin St. Francis hotel 707.967.5200. Map 3, C4 and even a torture cham- Tastings open to the public. in Union Square, open five one at Mayo Family Winery and a coursed din- ber. But the real treasure is 4001 Spring Mountain Rd., St. days a week (W-Su). No reser- ner for two for $89 at Saddles Steakhouse. BERINGER VINEYARDS inside: an award-winning Helena, 707.963.9327. Map 4, F4 vations needed. 1429 Tubbs Napa Valley’s oldest continu- collection of wines, includ- Ln., Calistoga, 707.942.5105. ously operating winery is also ing Sangiovese, Merlot and CHARLES KRUG Map 4, E3 among its most accessible. Cabernet Sauvignon. Don’t Since its opening in 1861, SHOPPING a cafe with daily-changing Restaurant at CIA Copia, offer- temporary sculpture. 6711 Beringer is known for its miss the daily cheese and Charles Krug winery has CLINE CELLARS THE BARLOW menus inspired by neighbor- ing Mediterranean-inspired Washington St., Yountville, Cabernet Sauvignons and wine pairing tour or the fami- produced award-winning This small-production winery A sleek stretch of renovated ing produce and farms; and California cuisine and an 707.944.0889. bold, oaky Chardonnays. The ly-friendly tasting areas. 4045 Cabernets and renowned produces Rhone varietals warehouses (once part of a coffee bar with its own es- extensive wine list. 500 1st St., large facility includes a gift N. St. Helena Hwy., Calistoga, Sauvignon Blanc. Tasting and Zinfandel from some of an apple processing plant) presso, house-made pastries Napa, 707.967.2500. Map 3, E7 NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN shop that offers tableware, 707.967.6272. room open daily. 2800 Main the oldest vines in California. in downtown Sebastopol is and ice creams. Shed also has Passengers sip select Napa stemware and kitchen and St., St. Helena, 707.967.2200. Owner Fred Cline started home to some of the best the only fermentation bar in CIA AT GREYSTONE Valley wines and indulge home accessories. A variety Map 3, B3 with an inheritance from his local food producers, wine- the area, where local wines, The historic Napa Valley in gourmet cuisine as they of tours and seminars are grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi makers, brewers and artisans. beers, kombuchas, natural institute offers two-hour, ride past vineyards on (of hot-tub fame). The 1850s This unique space is the first sodas and hard ciders are hands-on cooking and wine these three-hour lunch farmhouse is surrounded business community in the all available on tap. 25 North classes where you can cre- and dinner tours aboard by warm mineral springs country to connect custom- St., Healdsburg, 707.431.7433. ate internationally inspired restored Pullman coaches. and dozens of rose bushes. ers not only with products Map 4, C3 dishes or discuss and taste Reservations recommend- Tastings and tours open to and the people who make wine in state-of-the-art wine ed. 1275 McKinstry St., Napa, the public daily. 24737 Arnold them, but also with the TOURS & ATTRAC- tasting facilities to gain con- 800.427.4124. Map 3, E7 Dr., Sonoma 800.546.2070. production itself. McKinley TIONS fidence for your next trip to Map 4, F7 St., Sebastopol, 707.824.5600. BIN 415 a tasting room, restaurant or WINERIES Map 4, C6 With over 900 wineries be- wine shop. Stop by to catch B CELLARS CLOS DU VAL tween Napa and Sonoma, a cooking demo, visit the Named for the first letter of This winery is known for OXBOW PUBLIC MARKET deciding where to go can be Vintners Hall of Fame, dine at the word brix, a wine term its Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Visit this gourmet mall for the overwhelming. Bin 415 offers The Gatehouse Restaurant or defining the optimal sugar/ Merlot and Cabernet freshest local ingredients for unique excursions hosted just take a stroll around cam- alcohol content in grape juice Sauvignon. Its first vintage an afternoon picnic before by a certified sommelier to pus. 2555 Main St., St. Helena, that produces great wine, B Cabernet was one of only six wine tasting. Or stick around wineries offering the perfect 707.967.1100. Map 4, F4 Cellars is a new winery and California cabs selected for and order from the selection combination of amazing tasting lounge in Oakville. It the now-legendary 1976 Paris of independent eateries of- wines, warm hospitality and MA(I)SONRY uses a multi-vineyard wine- tasting. Tastings open to the fering elevated takes on pizza, beautiful scenery. Bin 415 Housed in a beautifully main- making strategy, blending public; tours by appointment. burgers and tacos plus oys- also offers tours throughout tained 1904 stone manor, grapes grown on nine Napa 5330 Silverado Trail, Napa, ters and rotisserie chicken and San Francisco, Sausalito, this winery collective and art Valley vineyard sites to create 707.261.5200. Map 3, D5 then grab a seat on the patio Muir Woods and the Pacific gallery feels like a luxurious unique wines with distinct overlooking the Napa River. Coast Highway. 1616 Grove St., home with rotating seasonal character, depth and layers of EHLERS ESTATE 644 1st St., Napa, 707.226.6529. 415.851.5711. art collections that feature flavor. The sophisticated new Featuring a unique fusion of Map 3, E7 internationally acclaimed tasting room features food outstanding wine-growing, CIA AT COPIA names as well as Napa Valley tastings to complement the environmental consciousness SHED Located in Napa’s Oxbow and Bay Area artists. The wines and a scenic setting. and international philan- Wine, dine and shop at this district, The Culinary Institute tasting room pours bottles Open daily, no appointment thropy, this is a California glass-walled, 10,000-square- of America’s CIA at Copia from limited-production necessary. 703 Oakville Cross winery through and through. foot locavore’s paradise in offers daily cooking and bev- boutique wineries such as Rd., Oakville 877.229.9939. Organic and biodynamic Healdsburg. You’ll find a store erage classes, and is home to Blackbird Vineyards, Brown Map 3, D4 farming techniques are used selling high-end kitchen and a lifestyle and home goods Estate, Renteria Wines and to produce a small portfo- gardening equipment, local store, an 80,000 square-foot more, which can be enjoyed lio of estate-grown wines. foodstuffs (including grains indoor and outdoor event with a bite in the landscaped Tastings by appointment.

milled onsite) and books; and theater space, and the gardens dotted with con- BUREAU VISITORS VALLEY SONOMA COURTESY

58 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 59 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Wine Country SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco

3222 Ehlers Ln., St. Helena, wine in the world. In 1977, small wooden boats in a Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc WENTE VINEYARDS 707.963.5972. Map 3, B2 he partnered with Austin courtyard reflecting pool and Fifty/Fifty, a Bordeaux Wente Vineyards is the country’s oldest, continuously Hills (of the Hills Bros. Coffee free of charge. Reservations blend. Guests can make an ETUDE WINES family). Their winery produc- recommended for tastings appointment for a private operated family-owned winery. The winery maintains This winery transforms the es Cabernet Sauvignons, and tours. 1991 St. Helena wine tasting 50 feet up in its leadership role in California winegrowing under very finest Carneros and Napa Zinfandels, Fume Blancs Hwy., Rutherford, 707.968.1100. the French Provincial tasting ownership and management by the Fourth and Fifth Valley grapes into world-class and, of course, Chardonnays. Map 3, C4 room tower. Tastings open wines sought out by the Tastings and tours open to to the public. 8466 St. Helena Generations of the Wente family. Blending traditional most discriminating wine the public. 1829 St. Helena KIEU HOANG WINERY Hwy., Rutherford, 707.963.3600. and innovative winemaking practices, the winery draws lovers. In addition to its widely Hwy., Rutherford, 707.963.2784. Formerly owned by the Map 3, C4 from approximately 3,000 acres of sustainably farmed acclaimed Carneros Pinot Map 3, C4 Michael Mondavi Family, Noir and legendary Napa this 20-acre property in the ROUND POND ESTATE Estate vineyards to create an outstanding portfolio of Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, GUNDLACH BUNDSCHU coveted Carneros region was WINERY fine wines. Located in Livermore Valley, Wente Vineyards Etude has also developed After more than 150 years, purchased by American busi- The winery joins a fabulous is recognized as one of California’s premier wine country a loyal following for Pinot the sixth generation of this nessman Kieu Hoang in 2014. olive mill and features a stun- Gris, Pinot Blanc and Merlot. wine-growing family still pro- The newly renovated winery ning tasting room with dra- destinations. 1250 Cuttings Wharf Rd., duces quality estate-grown- makes Cabernet Sauvignons, matic views that complement 5050 Arroyo Road, Livermore, CA 94550 707.257.5782. Map 3, D7 and-bottled Chardonnay, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Red the world-class Cabernet Pinot Noir and Cabernet Blends and Rose in vibrant Sauvignons and Sauvignon 925.456.2424 www.wentevineyards.com FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA Sauvignon, to name a few. packaged shaped bottles. Blancs. Tastings and tours by WINERY Check online for the seasonal 1285 Dealy Lane, Napa, appointment. 875 Rutherford Celebrate all the best cave tour, vineyard excur- 707.253.1615. Map 4, D7 Rd., Rutherford, 707.302.2575. things in life at this winery sions and courtyard tasting Map 3, C4 PEJU WINERY in the heart of picturesque availability. 2000 Denmark LIANA ESTATES Established in 1983, Peju Province Winery produces Alexander Valley. Sip St., Sonoma, 707.938.5277. Located among the rolling TRINCHERO NAPA VALLEY from more than 40 wines Map 4, F6 hills of Carneros with breath- The Trinchero family has been expressive wines from organic and sustainably farmed produced on site and eat taking views of the San Pablo making wine in Napa Valley vineyards in the Napa Valley. Located on an idyllic estate authentic, Neapolitan-style HALL WINES Bay, this second-generation, since 1948, and is best known in Rutherford, the winery is home to lush gardens, pizzas and South American This winery plants twice as family-owned and oper- for their Cabernet Sauvignon. wood-grilled meats at the many vines per acre in com- ated winery specializes in The tasting room is a unique distinctive architecture, and a tasting room oering world- full-service restaurant Rustic parison to traditional practic- Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. and inviting space where class hospitality and culinary experiences. Experience our and take a dip in the sparkling es, resulting in smaller vines Liana Estates also offers visitors can taste small-lot, local, small-farm, cheese and wine pairings or our “farm to swimming pools (open sea- that produce richer and more brunch and yoga overlooking single-vineyard wines from sonally). 300 Via Archimedes, concentrated wines. It boasts the San Pablo Bay, gourmet Trinchero’s premiere Napa table” wine and culinary explorations. The winery is open Geyserville, 707.857.1471. five estate vineyards plant- picnics in the vineyards, culi- Valley estates, and sample daily for tastings from 10 am-6 pm. Map 4, B2 ed with 500 acres of classic nary experiences and more. delectable food and wine Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet 2750 Las Amigas Rd., Napa, pairings. Discover the art of 8466 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford, GLORIA FERRER CAVES & Sauvignon, Merlot and 707.302.1160. Map 3, D8 winemaking through behind- 707.963.3600, www.peju.com VINEYARDS Sauvignon Blanc. The mon- the-scenes barrel tastings in PATZ & HALL Settle on the scenic Vista umental new LEED-certified Trinchero’s wine cave. 3070 Owners Lisa and Ariana Peju Terrace, where you can sip a visitor center features wine This acclaimed artisan winery N. St. Helena Hwy., St. Helena, glass of sparkling wine that tasting, food and wine edu- has been handcrafting its 707.963.1160. Map 3, B3 was aged in Spanish-style cation, tours, gardens and an small-lot and single-vineyard caves or an elegant Pinot impressive contemporary art Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs WENTE VINEYARDS Noir, paired with savory collection. 401 St. Helena Hwy. for more than 25 years. Sip in The country’s oldest con- TRINCHERO NAPA VALLEY cheeses and other delica- S., St. Helena, 707.967.2626. the modern and stylish tast- tinuously operating fami- The Trinchero family has been making wine in Napa cies. Gloria Ferrer produces Map 3, C3 ing salon, which offers casual ly-owned winery offers wine some of California’s best bar tastings in a convivial tasting, vineyard and garden Valley since 1948, and is best known for their Cabernet sparkling wines, as well as INGLENOOK CHATEAU setting, as well as private tast- tours, educational workshops, Sauvignon. The tasting room is a unique and inviting estate varietal still Pinot Noir Filmmaker Francis Ford ings by appointment. Open an upscale restaurant and a space where visitors can taste small-lot, single-vineyard and Chardonnay from its Coppola’s team produces Th-M. 21200 8th St. E., Sonoma, scenic 18-hole championship 335-acre estate. 23555 Hwy. five estate wines, including 707.265.7700. Map 4, F7 golf course. Visit the Vineyard wines from Trinchero’s premiere Napa Valley Estates. 121, Sonoma, 707.933.1917. the renowned Rubicon, on Tasting Room to learn about Open daily 10am- 5pm. Educational seminars are offered Map 4, F7 this 19th-century estate. The PEJU PROVINCE WINERY the rich history of California by appointment; sample delectable food and wine wines are made from 235 Celebrating 30 years in the winemaking, book a class GRGICH HILLS ESTATE acres of certified organically Napa Valley, this winery is a at the Winemakers Studio pairings, discover the art of barrel usage or learn about Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, whose grown grapes. The grounds garden oasis along Highway to blend your own bottle the origin of Napa Valley’s unique terroir. belongings were appropri- include two tasting salons, a 29 in the famed Rutherford or make an appointment ated by the Smithsonian, wine bar where guests can appellation. Known for for a private group tasting gained international recog- enjoy wines by the glass and its legendary Cabernet in the historic wine caves. 3070 N. St. Helena Hwy, St. Helena, CA 94574 nition in 1976 when judges a museum featuring antique Sauvignon, it produces many 5050 Arroyo Rd., Livermore, at the Paris Tasting named zoetropes and artifacts from award-winning varietals, 925.456.2300. 707.963.1160 his Chateau Montelena the estate’s founder, Gustave including Merlot, Cabernet Trincheronapavalley.com Chardonnay the best white Niebaum. Children can float Franc, Syrah, Zinfandel,

60 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 61 Sights Sights

Getting to Muir Woods FORT POINT attractions, including the de Muir Woods National Monument is one of This powerful fort guarded Young Museum; California the Golden Gate Bridge Academy of Sciences; the last old-growth coastal redwood forests entrance for almost half a cen- Japanese Tea Garden; tury until its original cannons Botanical Gardens; Stow Lake; in the world. Its towering, old-growth coastal were removed. Visitors can Conservatory of Flowers; redwoods are, on average, 600-800 years old, explore its brick casemates, Garden of Shakespeare’s grand arches and spiral stairs Flowers; two historic wind- with the oldest clocking in at 1,200 years. The and even participate in a can- mills; a bison paddock; and a redwoods here grow as tall as 258 feet, creat- non drill. Long Ave. and Marine rose garden. It’s also the city’s Dr., Bldg. 999, 415.556.1693. recreational headquarters, ing shaded canopies and guiding countless featuring polo, baseball and pathways, from 1-mile saunters to day-long GHIRARDELLI SQUARE soccer fields; a nine-hole golf The renovated former choco- course; an 18-hole disc golf hikes. Tip: Starting this year, parking ($8) and late factory site is now home course; tennis, handball and to boutiques, restaurants and basketball courts; an archery shuttle reservations ($3) are required. Visit the original Ghirardelli Ice field; horseshoe pits; lawn gomuirwoods.com. 1 Muir Woods Rd., Mill Valley Cream and Chocolate Shop. bowling; fly-fishing; a running Find gifts and souvenirs at track; and more. Come here SAVE 42% Lola Toy Shop, Gigi + Rose, and join the city’s runners, Jackson & Polk and Elizabeth cyclists, hikers, skaters, yogis, ATTRACTIONS & playing, swimming and eat- in North America. The striking and organized community 4 ADMISSION TICKETS W then sit down for a meal at picnickers and swing dancers. SIGHTS ing. Pier 39, 415.623.5300. white exterior is as eye-catch- events are not uncommon + 3 DAYS OF UNLIMITED CABLE CAR RIDES McCormick & Kuleto’s, Lori’s Pick up a park map at McLaren ALCATRAZ CRUISES ing as the inside, which hous- sights. 18th and Dolores Diner or The Pub. 900 North Lodge at the east park entrance This is the only way to get to BAKER BEACH es nearly 2,000 plant species streets, 415.554.9521. � BUY HERE � Point St., 415.775.5500.� BUY HEREat �Stanyan St. and JFK Dr., “The Rock,” the famous for- This mile-long beach lies at in five galleries. Closed M. 415.831.2700. mer federal penitentiary that the base of the rugged cliffs 100 JFK Dr., Golden Gate Park, FERRY BUILDING GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE housed some of the nation’s west of the Golden Gate. No 415.831.2090. MARKETPLACE 3-Day Cable Car and Muni Bus Passport One of the most iconic JAPANESE TEA GARDEN most notorious criminals from swimming here, but bring The historic, renovated ferry landmarks in the world, let Take a slow stroll among 1934-1963. Now one of San your camera for great views of CRISSY FIELD terminal at the foot of Market California Academy of Sciences alone San Francisco, the bonsai trees and koi fish in Francisco’s most popular vis- the Golden Gate Bridge, the A nationally protected for- Street is now a world-class magnificent international the oldest public Japanese itor attractions, ferries depart Marin Headlands and Lands mer U.S. Army airfield, this food market with more than orange Golden Gate Bridge garden in the United States. regularly for the island from End. 415.561.4323. strikingly scenic waterfront 40 shops and restaurants fea- Blue & Gold Fleet Bay Cruise Adventure defines the city. The 4,200- Originally built as the Pier 33 starting at 8:45 am. The recreation area is now a turing some of the area’s most foot suspension bridge was Japanese Village for the dynamic 45-minute cellhouse COIT TOWER favorite among active locals prized artisanal treats: rich Aquarium of the Bay completed in 1937 after four 1894 California Midwinter audio tour, offered in 11 lan- Upon her death in 1929, and visitors. A wide (stroller Cowgirl Creamery cheese, years of construction to a International Exposition, the guages, features the voices of socialite and art patron Lillie and wheelchair-friendly) trail buttery Miette Patisserie ma- rowdy, week-long celebra- Japanese Tea Garden boasts former Alcatraz prison guards Hitchcock Coit bequeathed between Marina Green and deleines and Recchiuti choc- Exploratorium tion. Even today, Golden Gate traditional monuments, and inmates who recount funds for the “beautification Fort Point is perfect for an olates redolent of lavender Bridge’s two 746-foot-tall Art bowed bridges, native escape attempts, prison riots of the city.” Her heirs used the easy walk, jog or bike ride. and ginger. It is also the spot de Young Museum + Legion of Honor Deco towers stand as proud Japanese plants and trees, and solitary confinement. The money to build Coit Tower Offering unparalleled views for one of the nation’s best testaments to the ingenuity serene ponds and some of night tours include a narrated on Telegraph Hill. Completed of the Golden Gate Bridge and biggest farmers markets and grace of the structure’s the best photo opps in the boat ride around the island. in 1933, the fluted column in one direction and the city on Tuesday, Thursday and design. A stroll down the east city. Conclude your visit with Tours sell out quickly, so be provides bird’s-eye views in the other, the shoreline Saturday mornings, featuring 98% RECOMMEND CityPASS side offers stunning views a cup of tea or snack at the sure to make reservations in from an observation deck is home to sandy beaches, colorful displays of local pro- VALID 9 DAYS of the city and boats in the teahouse. 75 Hagiwara Tea advance. Pier 33, 415.981.7625. near the top. Local artists picnic tables, tidal marsh duce, meat, cheese, flowers, bay—if you can withstand Garden Dr., Golden Gate Park, commissioned by the Works overlooks and a nationally cooking demos, food trucks the wind. A drive across the 415.752.1171. AQUARIUM OF THE BAY Progress Administration (a renowned windsurfing site, as and more. 415.983.8030. Golden Gate Bridge leads Visit San Francisco’s only New Deal agency employing well as cafes, bookstores and directly to a breathtaking van- LANDS END waterfront aquarium to get millions of unskilled workers an environmental education FISHERMAN’S WHARF tage point in Marin County. Known for its shipwrecks up close and personal with to carry out public works center. 415.561.7690. You’ll find crab stands along Either way, a trip across the and landslides, this is San the bay’s amazing marine life. projects) painted the murals the sidewalks, seafood restau- Golden Gate Bridge truly Francisco’s wildest and rock- Walk through crystal-clear inside in 1934. Admission to DOLORES PARK rants and a bevy of souvenir brings the stunning San iest coast, located on the tunnels of water filled with the ground-floor gift shop This generous square of grass shops in the historic heart Francisco landscape into edge of the continent. The more than 20,000 aquatic and murals is free. Open daily on the Mission District’s west of the city’s fishing industry. focus. Lincoln Boulevard, near headlands connect popular animals, including sevengill 10 am-6:30 pm. Guided mural side is a great place to soak up Several bay charter boats Doyle Drive and Fort Point, landmarks the Cliff House sharks, the bay’s largest tours 11 am Sa. 1 Telegraph Hill some sun on most days and depart from the piers. Nearby Presidio, 415.921.5858. and the Palace of the Legion predators. You can touch Blvd., 415.249.0995. an even better place to get a is the bustling food and of Honor. The crown jewel leopard sharks, rays and sea glimpse of real San Francisco shopping center Ghirardelli GOLDEN GATE PARK is the jaw-droppingly scenic stars. Daily events include CONSERVATORY OF culture. Kids play on the mon- Square, scenic Aquatic Park Bigger than New York’s (and dog-friendly and par- animal feedings and naturalist FLOWERS ster playground, dogs romp and historic Hyde Street Pier. citypass.com Central Park and encompasscitypass.com- tially wheelchair accessible) presentations. Don’t miss the The botanical wonderland in together and adults in cou- 415.673.3530. Savings based on adult pricing. ing over 75,000 trees, this Coastal Trail, with postcard Program, pricing and discounts subject to change; permanent river otter exhibit, Golden Gate Park is the oldest ples and groups lounge on visit citypass.com for current details. horticulturally diverse urban views of the Pacific coast and

where you can watch otters wood and glass conservatory the grass with picnics. Rallies KAZMIERSKI/ISTOCK ©ADAM oasis is home to countless Golden Gate Bridge framed

62 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 63 Sights SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Sights by windswept cypresses. Start Gate Bridge, Angel Island, PALACE OF FINE ARTS Golf Course and Rob Hill and plants that are no longer gently cruise under the many Festival, offering free outdoor CALIFORNIA ACADEMY OF the 3.5-mile out-and-back Alcatraz Island, downtown Originally designed for Campground. Perched atop found in their native habitats. bridges and visit the waterfall. multicultural performances SCIENCES hike with an introduction to and parts of Marin County. the 1915 Panama Pacific the park’s highest point, the 1119 9th Ave., 415.661.1316. This is a scenic and relaxing throughout the summer. 750 The academy is an interna- the area’s history and wildlife The adjacent marina is home International Exposition, this latter is San Francisco’s only retreat for couples and fam- Howard St., 415.978.2787. tional center for scientific at the beautiful Lands End to the St. Francis Yacht Club domed rotunda is all that overnight campsite. Accessed SAN FRANCISCO MARITIME ilies alike. 50 Stow Lake Dr., education and research and Lookout visitor center, com- and the Golden Gate Yacht remains from eight identical via Washington Blvd., 15th NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK 415.386.2531. THE SAN FRANCISCO ZOO the only museum in the world plete with a gift shop, cafe Club. structures built to show the Ave., 25th Ave., Arguello Blvd., The historic park offers A vast array of wildlife awaits to house an aquarium, plan- and restrooms. Also located world that San Francisco had Presidio Ave. and Chestnut St. opportunities to tour sev- YERBA BUENA GARDENS at this facility near the far etarium and natural history here are the historic Sutro NATIONAL AIDS MEMORIAL risen from the ashes after the eral historic ships, including The large complex next to edge of Ocean Beach. The at- museum under one (living) Baths and a memorial to a GROVE devastating 1906 earthquake. PRESIDIO OFFICERS’ CLUB the meticulously restored Moscone Center has much tractions include a children’s roof. See what’s shaking WWII cruiser that sustained Deep within Golden Gate The world’s fair honored the San Francisco’s oldest build- square-rigger “Balclutha” to offer in the way of theater, petting zoo and a lemur for- at “Earthquake,” an exhibit 45 hits and 25 fires during the Park, the National Aids completion of the Panama ing (Spanish colonists built its (open daily 9:30 am-6 pm; restaurants, public art and est. Sloat Blvd. at Great Hwy., exploring how seismology Battle of Guadalcanal. 680 Memorial Grove pays quiet Canal, and the construction adobe walls in 1776) and the $5 adults, children under 16 formal gardens. Facilities 415.753.7080. has shaped earth’s past and Point Lobos Ave., 415.561.4700. tribute to the millions of of the Palace of Fine Arts crown jewel of the Presidio free). The visitors center in the include an ice rink, a 12-lane present. “Human Odyssey,” a people who lost their lives turned the dilapidated Marina reopened fall 2014 after a nearby Argonaut Hotel (499 bowling alley and a historic MUSEUMS dramatic addition to Tusher LOMBARD STREET to AIDS. The first memorial District into an exhibit of ar- $30 million renovation. The Jefferson St.) features interac- carousel. Nearby museums CABLE CAR MUSEUM African Hall, traces the Eight hairpin switchbacks and of its kind in the United chitectural beauty. Featuring 38,895-square foot cultural tive exhibits. Join the free pi- include the Contemporary Unravel the mystery of exact- milestones of our species’ the downward pitch of the States, the Grove stands as a lagoon with swans, today destination is home to per- rate party called Chantey Sing Jewish Museum, SFMOMA, ly how the cable car, one of fascinating history. Thursday so-called “crookedest street a constant reminder of how this is a popular spot to stroll manent and rotating exhibits, at 8 pm on the first Saturday the Museum of the African San Francisco’s greatest at- nights: “Nightlife,” the mu- in the world” have made this this disease devastated the and take photos. 3301 Lyon St., the most noteworthy of of each month. Hyde St. Pier, Diaspora, the Cartoon Art tractions since 1873, actually seum’s weekly 21-and-older block a must-drive for visitors. San Francisco community 415.567.6642. which is the Heritage Gallery, 415.447.5000. Museum and the Children’s works. Located in the historic event, invites visitors to drink, The quarter-mile downhill and why the struggle against which features multi-media Creativity Museum, an Washington-Mason cable car dance and experience world- stretch is lined with gorgeous AIDS must continue today. PIER 39 displays on the area’s history, STOW LAKE interactive art and technol- depot and powerhouse in class exhibits with topics gardens and barriers to en- Golden Gate Park, Nancy This family-friendly shopping, much of which has been One of the gems of Golden ogy center. The Yerba Buena Nob Hill, the small museum ranging from the science of sure that drivers maintain a Pelosi Dr. & Bowling Green Dr., dining and entertainment discovered by local arche- Gate Park, this serene, man- Center for the Arts offers houses a collection of historic sex to the cosmos. non-mem- speed of five miles per hour. 415.765.0498. destination near Fisherman’s ologists who staff an active made lake has provided an visual, performing and film cable cars, photographs and bers $15, members $12. 55 Those who simply walk to Wharf features more than 90 research center for Presidio escape from city living since arts, plus educational pro- mechanical displays. 1201 Music Concourse Dr., Golden the top of the hill are reward- OCEAN BEACH specialty shops and 14 res- artifacts. The building is also 1893. Rent a rowboat, pedal grams. The area also hosts the Mason St., 415.474.1887. Gate Park, 415.379.8000. ed with sweeping views of The widest and longest taurants serving seafood and home to Arguello, a new boat or electric boat and annual Yerba Buena Gardens Russian Hill and Coit Tower. expanse of sand on San casual fare with beautiful bay Mexican restaurant from Lombard and Hyde streets. Francisco’s shores, this beach views, including Alcatraz, the acclaimed chef Traci Des extending from the Cliff Golden Gate and Bay bridges, Jardins. Inside are original MACONDRAY LANE House to Fort Funston along Fisherman’s Wharf and city pendants and wall sconces This small pedestrian lane the Pacific Ocean is a destina- skyline. Learn about sea life in as well as a bar made from southeast of Russian Hill is a tion for seaside drives, jogs, the Aquarium of the Bay and the reclaimed wood of a de- quintessential hidden garden. sunset walks and bonfires. don’t miss the sea lions who molished Presidio building. It begins with a fairy-tale Often windy and foggy, the laze on the west docks and Adjacent to the restaurant is wooden trellis, continues notorious currents attract the adjacent Sea Lion Center. the latest sculpture from na- with a quiet cobbled lane serious surfers who brave the 415.981.7437. ture artist Andy Goldsworthy, lined with Edwardian cottag- frigid waters. which incorporates local es and trees and ends with THE PRESIDIO eucalyptus trees. 50 Moraga wooden stairs leading to PAINTED LADIES A patchwork of eucalyptus Ave., 415.561.4440. Taylor Street with magnificent This row of seven perfectly groves, freshwater creeks, bay views. Two blocks east- pastel, ornate Victorian wildflower-splashed sand SAN FRANCISCO BOTANICAL west between Leavenworth homes from the 1890s (made dunes and coastal prairie GARDEN and Taylor streets, paralleling famous by the opening cred- covers the Presidio, a historic This internationally recog- Union and Green streets. At its of the sitcom “Full House”) former military post and nized urban oasis and self-de- the Taylor Street end, a set of lines the eastern side of modern-day national park in scribed outdoor classroom steps descend from the lane Alamo Square park. Victorian the northwest corner of the includes 55 acres of gardens to Taylor Street. Views from and Edwardian-style houses city. Exploring the 1,491-acre displaying more than 8,000 the lane extend northward are among San Francisco’s playground starts with 24 different kinds of plants, plus to Alcatraz Island and the San most recognizable architec- miles of trails and eight scenic a library, bookstore, family ac- Francisco Bay. tural features. From the top of overlooks with postcard-wor- tivities and guided walks. The the park, you’ll be treated to a thy views of the Golden Gate Bay Area’s mild temperatures, MARINA GREEN view of the Painted Ladies in Bridge and San Francisco Bay. wet winters and dry summers, The Marina Green is a beau- the foreground of downtown Three installations by nature coupled with San Francisco’s tiful 74-acre expanse of grass San Francisco that’s popular artist Andy Goldsworthy famous coastal fog, provide between Fort Mason and with photographers. This little grace the park, inspired by this garden with a rare and the Presidio, surrounded stretch of homes is often also 300 acres of pine, cypress advantageous range of cli- by the historic mansions of called Postcard Row. 710-720 and eucalyptus trees planted matic conditions that allow the Marina neighborhood. Steiner St. there in the late 1800s. The it to grow and conserve Running along the San Presidio also draws outdoor plants from all over the world, Francisco Bay, it provides enthusiasts with gems such including plants from high el- 104 MONTGOMERY STREET IN THE PRESIDIO | WALTDISNEY.ORG good views of the Golden as Baker Beach, Presidio evation tropical cloud forests

64 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 65 SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Sights

EXPLORATORIUM in the heart of the Castro, inspired the life-size train in ball at the beautiful water- Relocated to a spectacular it features long-term and Disneyland. 104 Montgomery front 43,000-seat AT&T Park, waterfront location on Pier changing multimedia exhi- St. in the Presidio, 415.345.6800. which frequently sells out. 24 15 as of 2013, this educational bitions. A display of Harvey Willie Mays Plaza, 415.972.2000. center offers an array of in- Milk’s personal belongings SPORTS teractive scientific exhibits pays tribute to the late San SAN FRANCISCO 49ERS and hands-on displays that Francisco supervisor, who was The NFL team has moved BAY AREA stimulate the senses and the first openly gay politician to Santa Clara to play at the MARIN HEADLANDS minds of the young and old elected in California. 4127 18th new state-of-the-art Levi’s Windswept ridges, protected alike. Ongoing: “After Dark,” St., 415.621.1107. Stadium, nearly two million valleys and beaches offer op- the Exploratorium’s 18-and- square feet of cutting-edge portunities for hiking, biking up event from 6-10 pm on the WALT DISNEY FAMILY technology, sustainable de- and picnics. Start at Marin first Thursday of the month MUSEUM sign, gourmet concessions Headlands Visitor Center and features cocktails, exclusive Storytelling was Walt Disney’s and art exhibits that redefine see an exhibit showcasing performances, films and specialty, and now this muse- the fan experience. Visitors the history of the indigenous cutting-edge technology um tells the story of the man can take a tour of the stadium Miwok people. If you brought exhibits. Closed M. Pier 15, behind the Disney magic. The and visit the 49ers Museum. a canine friend, check out the 415.528.4444. tale of Walt Disney’s life and 4900 Marie P. DeBartolo Way, dog-friendly Rodeo Beach for career comes to life in inter- Santa Clara, 415.464.9377. beautiful ocean views and a GLBT HISTORY MUSEUM active galleries full of voice perfect picnic spot. Nestled Celebrating 100 years of the clips, home videos and family SAN FRANCISCO GIANTS at the end of Rodeo Beach is San Francisco gay, lesbian, photographs not seen any- One of the longest-estab- Fort Cronkhite, an old military bisexual and transgender where else. Catch a glimpse lished professional baseball fort now housing the Golden community’s history through of Disney’s early drawings, teams, the 2010, 2012 and Gate Raptor Observatory, dynamic and surprising ex- animation and live film cam- 2014 MLB World Series cham- Marine Mammal Center and hibitions and programming, era inventions as well as the pions attract 3 million fans Headlands Center for the Arts. this museum is the only one steam-powered miniature annually. Watch star players Perched on a nearby cliff, the of its kind in the U.S. and the train Disney built in his back- Madison Bumgarner, Hunter still-active, 150-year-old Point second in the world. Located yard in 1950 that eventually Pence and Buster Posey play Bonita Lighthouse is accessible via a hiking trail. 948 Fort Barry, Sausalito, 415.331.1540.

MARINE MAMMAL CENTER This nonprofit organization in the majestic Marin Headlands rescues and nurses back to health more than 600 dis- tressed animals each year, including elephant seals, harbor seals and California sea lions. One of the largest hos- pitals of its kind to combine rehabilitation with a research lab, the center welcomes visitors, who can observe the animal care and work quarters. Exhibits and tours explore the interdependence between marine wildlife and humans. Currently on view is “The Ghost Below,” an enor- mous sculpture made from 450 pounds of all-too-prev- alent deadly ghost net that was found in the belly of a sperm whale carcass. 2000 Bunker Rd., Fort Cronkhite, 415.289.7325.

67 Explore Explore

Roll Across Town BUSES Traverse 7 miles of Golden Gate Park’s 1,000 Golden Gate Transit provides regional fixed-route bus acres in under two hours via the efficient service from San Francisco to Marin and Sonoma counties. (and undeniably amusing) means of personal AC Transit offers frequent transportation known as the segway with the transbay connections to and from San Francisco and the Electric Tour Company. Take in the fresh East Bay, as well as service air and greenery while exploring the park’s within Oakland, Berkeley and other East Bay cities. Dial 511 lesser-known gems. The company also leads and request either Golden routes that explore the wharf and waterfront, Gate Transit or AC Transit.

Chinatown, North Beach, Lombard Street CABLE CARS These moving National and the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood .82 Historic Landmarks run on Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr., 415.474.3130 three lines 6 am-12:30 am daily: Powell-Hyde (line 60), Powell-Mason (line 59) and California Street BAY CRUISES Francisco along with food BIKE RENTALS and either the Exploratorium (line 61). The Powell-Mason ADVENTURE CAT SAILING and entertainment aboard BAY CITY BIKE RENTALS or the de Young Museum and and Powell-Hyde lines run CHARTERS Hornblower’s fleet of luxury Simply rent a bike here, or get Legion of Honor. $94 adults, between Union Square Take in the sights of the San vessels. Offerings include to know San Francisco and $69 children ages 5-11. Use code WHEREMAG for an extra our web price and Fisherman’s Wharf; the Francisco Bay while cruising a weekend Champagne Sausalito on a guided tour. $5 off California car runs between aboard a 55-foot catamaran brunch cruise, a dinner or 2661 Taylor St. ; 1325 Columbus PRIVATE TRANSPOR- Only available online at www.city-sightseeing.us Market Street and Van Ness with an enclosed cabin. supper club cruise, a lunch Ave., 415.346.2453. TATION offer valid on 1 Day, 2 Day and 3 Day Hop On Hop Off Tours Ave. $6; Muni Passports and Excursions include the Bay cruise or a cocktail cruise. TIDELINE WATER TAXI Clipper Cards accepted. Sail, a 1.5-hour cruise that Hornblower also has yachts BIKE AND ROLL Tideline Marine Group’s 415.673.6864. glides under the Golden Gate available for private events A selection of street bikes, water-taxi service is an Bridge and past Alcatraz, accommodating up to 1,500 road bikes and rollerblades on-demand, all-weather, CALTRAIN and the romantic Sunset people. Pier 3, Hornblower are available for rent in many 24/7 alternative to driving Offering commuter rail ser- Sail, which includes hors Landing, 415.788.8866. $$$ convenient locations. 899 or limited schedule ferry vice along the San Francisco d’oeuvres and two beverages. Columbus Ave. 353 Jefferson services. Luxurious small Peninsula, through the South Reservations required. March- RED AND WHITE FLEET St., 415.229.2000. 2800 passenger boats pick up Bay to San Jose and Gilroy. November. Pier 39 at J Dock, Founded in 1892, this histor- Leavenworth St.; At the inter- and transport passengers at 800.660.4287. 800.498.4228. ic fleet is legendary for its section of Market and Drumm authorized public and private breathtaking San Francisco streets. locations throughout the CLIPPER CARD BLUE AND GOLD FLEET cruises. Sail under the Golden Port of San Francisco, Marin Available for use on Muni, The premier provider of ferry Gate Bridge and around BLAZING SADDLES County and even Napa Valley. BART, CalTrain and more, this and water excursion services Alcatraz aboard the one-hour Bike the bridge with this 415.339.0196. is an all-in-one transit card on the San Francisco Bay, Golden Gate Bay Cruise, nar- professional and accessible that keeps track of any passes, Blue & Gold Fleet offers the rated in 16 languages with biking adventure company, PUBLIC TRANSPOR- discount tickets, ride books famous one-hour Bay Cruise up to 13 sailings daily. Enjoy offering eight San Francisco TATION and cash value loaded onto it. Adventure, Escape from the gorgeous sunsets, twilight locations at Fisherman’s 511 Rock Cruise around Alcatraz views, an appetizer buffet, Wharf and a fun, family friend- This is a free mobile and web FERRIES Island and the ever-popular complimentary beverages ly way to combine sightsee- source for up-to-the-minute The Golden Gate Ferry fleet RocketBoat, the ultimate and live music aboard the ing and fresh air. 2715 Hyde St., transportation information, offers daily ferries to two high-speed thrill ride along relaxed 2-hour California 415.202.8888. covering the nine-county San Marin County destinations: San Francisco’s waterfront. Sunset Cruise (check the Francisco Bay Area. Just dial Sausalito and Larkspur. The A free multi-language audio schedule online for seasonal DISCOUNT TICKETS 511 or check the website. Blue and Gold Fleet offers tour is now available on Bay times). The 90-minute Bridge CITYPASS ferry service to Sausalito, Cruise Adventure and Escape 2 Bridge Cruise highlights Save 46% at the Bay Area’s BART Tiburon, Angel Island, Vallejo from the Rock cruises in nine San Francisco’s history, archi- major attractions. Valid for Bay Area Rapid Transit trains and Alameda/Oakland. The languages. Bring your Wi-Fi tecture and Native American nine days from first use, serve the city of San Francisco East Bay Ferry provides fer- enabled device to access the culture on a sailing route each prepaid ticket book- as well as San Francisco and ries between San Francisco, tour. Pier 41, 415.705.8200. past city icons from the Bay let includes a week-long Oakland International air- Alameda and Oakland Bridge to the Golden Gate unlimited San Francisco ports, Berkeley, Oakland and (with Angel Island added HORNBLOWER CRUISES & Bridge. All tours depart from Muni and cable car passport other Bay Area destinations. May through October). The EVENTS Pier 43 1/2, Fisherman’s Wharf, and a Blue & Gold Fleet bay Trains run until midnight daily. Alameda Harbor Bay Ferry Enjoy beautiful views of 415.673.2900. cruise, as well as admission 415.989.2278. offers service strictly between the Golden Gate and Bay to California Academy of San Francisco and Alameda

bridges, Alcatraz and San Sciences, Aquarium of the Bay COMPANY TOUR ELECTRIC COURTESY at rush hours. Bay Link

68 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 69 Explore SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Explore

Ferry offers ferries between house and the field. 24 Willie you need for a day on the riders can try the Advanced Morgan ballroom and the Vallejo, the Ferry Building and Mays Plaza, 415.972.2400. bay, regardless of your ability Wharf & Crooked Street tour. Palace Hotel’s Garden Court. Fisherman’s Wharf. level. You can even paddle Participants must be 12 years The Chinatown, Theater AVITAL TOURS to McCovey Cove behind of age or older and weigh District and Union Square GOLDEN GATE PARK Visit some of the city’s best the park and try to catch a 100-250 pounds. 757 Beach St. walk mixes feng shui, Frank SHUTTLE eateries and bars and take in home-run ball. Guided tours ; Golden Gate Park office locat- Lloyd Wright architecture Now it’s easier than ever to the sights along the way as available. South Beach Harbor, ed behind the stage in Music and Philippe Starck design. explore the many different at- your guide shares engaging Embarcadero at Townsend St., Concourse near Japanese Tea 10 am and 1:30 pm daily. tractions located throughout historical anecdotes. Stops 415.357.1010. Garden, 415.528.5837. $30. Reservations required. the 1,017 acres that make up on the Mission District tour 650.814.6303. Golden Gate Park. Drive to the include Bi-Rite Creamery and CITY SIGHTSEEING GOURMET WALKS free parking at Ocean Beach Hog & Rocks, the city’s first The tours on these open-top, Take a stroll in a burgeoning MAGIC BUS to catch the shuttle, which ham and oyster bar. On the vintage double-decker buses foodie neighborhood and All aboard the Magic Bus, runs every 15 to 20 minutes Union Square cocktail tour, feature live guides. The down- discover the city’s best food, a fantasy theatrical tour and stops at the Conservatory you’ll take a jaunt through for- town loop is hop-on, hop-off, chocolate and wine. The through San Francisco during of Flowers, de Young mer speakeasy territory and and tickets are valid for 48 signature Chocolate Tour sati- the 1960s. This multi-media Museum, California Academy find out why San Francisco is hours. 1331 Columbus Ave., ates sweet tooths with a deli- adventure is on an actual of Sciences, National AIDS now considered one of the 415.440.8687. cious education on fine choc- bus—half sightseeing tour Memorial Grove, Stow Lake top cocktail destinations in olate and samples from gour- through the city, half doc- and more. Point Lobos Ave., the world. At each stop you’ll CRUISIN’ THE CASTRO TOURS met chocolate boutiques. umentary film about San Great Hwy. spend time with a chef, bar- Learn fascinating facts about The Hayes Valley tour explore Francisco during the Summer tender or owner tasting, chat- San Francisco and its trans- the origins of California of Love. Travel through MUNI ting and maybe even baking. formation into one of the cuisine while sampling Haight-Ashbury, Golden Citywide bus and light-rail 415.355.4044. world’s most diverse cities on everything from gourmet tea Gate Park and Chinatown as service includes the restored, this fun and easy walking tour at Samovar and Parisian mac- you relive the ‘60s through brightly colored F-line street- BARBARY COAST TRAIL (founded in 1989) that ex- arons from Chantal Guillon to original videos, documentary cars that run from the Castro SELF-GUIDED WALKING plores one of the oldest and an artisan exotic cocktail from footage, 3-D imagery, aural District to Pier 39 and back. TOUR largest gay neighborhoods in Smugglers Cove. 415.312.1119. histories, live hippie trip at- Light-rail trains run above The Barbary Coast Trail is a the country. Take the newly tendants and music of the era. ground on tracks and also 3.8-mile walk through the added food and wine tour GRAY LINE OF SAN This isn’t just a tour—it’s a trip! below ground to make stops heart of historic San Francisco, Thursday and Friday evenings FRANCISCO Bus boards from Union Square, at various destinations on marked by bronze medallions with stops at Blush Wine Bar, A popular provider of travel 855.969.6244. Market Street. Muni Passports, and arrows set in the sidewalk Canela Bistro & Wine Bar, experiences since 1916, Gray good for unlimited rides that lead to 20 of the city’s Catch, Poesia and Hot Cookie. Line of San Francisco offers MISSION MURAL WALKS for one, three or seven con- most important historic Harvey Milk Plaza, corner of over 30 tours in the Bay Area The Precita Eyes Mural Arts secutive days, are available sites. 5th and Mission streets, Castro and Market streets, and beyond, including Muir & Visitors Center, a multipur- at the Visitor Information 415.775.1111. 415.255.1821. Woods and Sausalito, Napa pose, community-based arts Center at the BART station on and Sonoma, Yosemite organization that has played Powell and Market streets. BIG BUS TOURS EDIBLE EXCURSIONS National Park, Monterey and an integral role in the city’s 415.673.6864. Take a tour through San Epicurean concierge Lisa Carmel and more. Tours are cultural heritage and arts Francisco aboard an open- Rogovin offers intimate multi-lingual. Pier 41 Marine education, organizes a variety TOURS top bus and learn about its culinary excursions in San Terminal, 415.353.5310. of artist-led cultural and his- ALL ABOUT CHINATOWN rich history and culture, hop- Francisco, Berkeley and torical walking tours. Explore TOURS ping on and off at any of the Oakland for foodies looking HAIGHT ASHBURY FLOWER more than 80 gorgeous This cultural, historical, and 20 stops located throughout to get a behind-the-scenes POWER WALKING TOUR murals and the stories behind culinary walking tour of the city. Choose between a taste of the Bay Area’s remark- Stroll through the music, art, them in an eight-block walk Chinatown is one you won’t 24 or 48-hour ticket and live able food culture with a local architecture, and fashion his- in the Mission District. Bicycle, forget. It includes a look into tour guides or recorded com- expert. Tours explore the tory of this famous neighbor- private bus and group tours architectural history, an herb- mentary in 10 languages. 99 Mission District, Japantown, hood. Tour covers 12 blocks; available by appointment. al pharmacy and a fortune Jefferson St., 855.854.8687. the “Gourmet Ghetto” of advance purchase recom- 2981 24th St., 415.285.2287. cookie factory. Enjoy a dim North Berkeley, the Ferry mended $20. Tours given Tu sum lunch. Tour lasts two CHINATOWN WALKING Building Marketplace and and Sa at 10:30 am, Fri at 2 pm. MUIR WOODS SHUTTLE hours. 415.982.8839. TOURS Farmers Market, the craft 888.832.0705. TOURS Experience the herbal shops, cocktail scene and Uptown The Muir Woods Shuttle Tour AT&T PARK TOUR open markets, and historic Oakland. 415.806.5970. HOBNOB TOURS is a comprehensive 4-1/2 hour Home of the San Francisco quarters with expert native Hear tales of high society, Muir Woods Tour. They also Giants, AT&T Park offers a guides. Participate in a tea ELECTRIC TOUR COMPANY - adultery and murder on the make stops at the Muir Beach grand slam attraction for ceremony and sample dim SEGWAY TOURS Nob Hill tour while seeing Overlook and the Marin its fans when the dugout is sum. Reservations are essen- Sign up for fully guided mansions, fountains, ball- Headlands. San Francisco Ferry empty. Walk through the plac- tial; prices vary. 650.355.9657. Segway tours of Fisherman’s rooms and Grace Cathedral. Bldg., 866.991.8687. es only the players and coach- Wharf and the water- The Financial District tour es go, including the Giants’ CITY KAYAK front, Golden Gate Park, is full of architectural icons, PACIFIC HEIGHTS dugout, the visitors’ club- Docked near AT&T Park, this Chinatown and Lombard sculptures and plaques, ARCHITECTURAL WALK company offers all the gear Street. Experienced Segway including the dazzling Julia San Francisco Architectural

70 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 71 Explore SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/san-francisco Explore

Heritage offers a weekly guid- SAN FRANCISCO Gate Bridge, San Francisco Reservations required. 151 3rd Monterey/Carmel Tours, and an eight-block walk in the ed walking tour of the eastern HELICOPTER TOURS skyline, Alcatraz and the St., 415.357.4000. much more. Tours range from Mission District. The center Pacific Heights neighbor- These narrated tours offer Pacific coastline. Sunset a few hours to all day. All tours is a multipurpose, commu- hood, which includes some bird’s-eye views of the city Champagne flights are STREETS OF SAN FRANCISCO include pick-up and drop off nity-based arts organization of the city’s most spectacular and popular attractions such available. Daily departures BIKING TOURS at many San Francisco hotels. that has played an integral Victorian and pre-World War as the Golden Gate Bridge, on the hour from Sausalito, If you’re reasonably fit, per- 415.353.5310. role in the city’s cultural herit- I mansions. $8, $5 seniors and Alcatraz, Treasure Island four miles north of the city. haps the most exhilarating age and arts education. 2981 children under 12. Tours leave and more. Tours range from Reservations recommended. way to explore the city is to URBAN HIKER SAN 24th St., 415.285.2287. from 2007 Franklin St. Sundays 20-minute flights over the city 242 Redwood Hwy., Mill Valley, join the thousands of locals FRANCISCO at 12:30 p.m. (rain or shine). to half-day excursions to wine 415.332.4843. commuting on two wheels. Get in a true workout while PRESIDIO VISITOR CENTER 415.441.3000. country, as well as dinner The efficiency of a bicycle taking advantage of one of Housed in a renovated guard- flights and Sausalito lunch SFMOMA PRIVATE TOURS allows for routes that traverse San Francisco’s best secrets: house (circa 1900), the William SAN FRANCISCO flights. Complimentary shut- Knowledgeable art historians multiple neighborhoods, and great hiking within city limits. Penn Mott, Jr. Presidio Visitor ARCHITECTURE WALKING tles pick up passengers from facilitate art appreciation by this young company takes Trek hills, stairways and trails Center is home to a large- TOUR Fisherman’s Wharf, Union providing in-depth analysis out the urban intimidation and take in history, nature and scale Presidio model with Knowledgeable and friendly Square and Nob Hill. Flights and historical context, plus factor. Go off the beaten tour- incredible views on 5-mile informative touch screens, guide Rick Evans leads a two- depart from the executive TO EXPLORE they encourage tour par- ist track on rides of 9-18 miles routes during these 2-3 hour a calendar projected onto a hour tour of San Francisco’s terminal at SFO and Sausalito. ticipants to form opinions to areas where the locals work jaunts. This tour outfit has video wall and an interactive most famous downtown Reservations required. about artwork. Private tours and live, like the Richmond, even attracted a local follow- digital table depicting two buildings, unique open spac- 800.400.2404. are available during muse- SoMa and the city’s most ing, with groups meeting centuries of history. The retail es and historic landmarks. um hours and last one hour highly trafficked bike route, up for monthly long hikes. store sells themed merchan- Tours leave daily at 11 am from SAN FRANCISCO MOVIE (additional hours optional). The Wiggle. 370 Linden St., 415.669.4453. dise and tools for exploration. the lobby of the Galleria Park TOURS $30-$35/adults (includes 415.448.7673. 210 Lincoln Blvd., 415.561.4323. Hotel. Reservations required. Watch clips from dozens of admission); $14/18 and under; VISITORS CENTERS 191 Sutter St., 415.264.8824. movies shot in San Francisco $340/groups fewer than 10. SUPER SIGHTSEEING TOURS PRECITA EYES MURAL ARTS as you pass the actual film Choose from Ultimate City & VISITORS CENTER SAN FRANCISCO CITY locations on this engaging Tour, Alcatraz Combination Precita Eyes is the starting No. 11: Conzelman Road in the Marin Headlands GUIDES two-hour bus tour of the city. oﬀ ers stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Tour, Giant Redwoods Tour, point for tours encompass- Volunteers from the San You’ll see the house from For more amazing destinations go to wheretraveler.com Deluxe Wine Country Tour, ing more than 80 murals in Francisco Public Library lead “Mrs. Doubtfire,” the spot dozens of free neighbor- where Jimmy Stewart pulled hood tours. There’s a tour Kim Novak from the water for just about every interest in “Vertigo” and much more. Rated #1 Tour in San Francisco! or passion, including Alfred Departs from Pier 43 1/2. Hitchcock’s San Francisco; 415.624.4949. various 1906 retrospectives SEGWAY TOURS about the earthquake and SAN FRANCISCO WHALE fires that leveled the city a TOURS Fully Guided, 10 Daily Departures, 7 Great Routes! century ago; and a Golden Journey to the Farallon Time includes fun training • Reservations encouraged • Ages 12+ & 100-250lbs. (45-113kg.) Gate Bridge walk, to name just Islands, where grey and a few. 415.557.4266. humpback whales migrate through the Farallones SAN FRANCISCO FIRE National Marine Sanctuary, ENGINE TOURS aboard the “Kitty Kat” cat- Hop on a vintage fire truck amaran. Experts narrate and don authentic fire gear the 5-hour daily cruises. If for a memorable, 90-minute no whales are spotted, the 757 Beach St. @ Hyde trip through the Presidio next trip is on the company. Fisherman’s Wharf and across the Golden Slightly longer natural history 2.5 Hrs Wharf & Waterfront Tour Gate Bridge to Fort Baker in excursions are also available, 2.5 Hrs Night Tour: Chinatown & Little Italy Tour Sausalito, where you’ll take along with two-hour sunset in magnificent views of San eco-tours of the San Francisco Fisherman’s Wharf 417 Beach St. @ Taylor Francisco from across the Bay that feature seals, dol- 2.5 Hrs Advanced: Crooked Street & Hills Tour* bay. The vehicle only seats phins, the Golden Gate 1.5 Hrs Waterfront Mini Tour 14 passengers, making for Bridge and Alcatraz. Advance a personalized experience. purchase required online or Golden Gate Park Behind stage, near entrance Reservations required. by phone. Depart from Pier 39, to Japanese Tea Garden Tours depart from 650 Beach Dock B, 212.209.3370. 2.5 Hrs Official Golden Gate Park Tour St. in Fisherman’s Wharf, 2.5 Hrs Advanced: Park Tour* 415.333.7077. SEAPLANE ADVENTURES 1.5 Hrs Park Mini Tour Get a bird’s-eye view of the *Previous experience required on Advanced Tours city and the bay on this flying ElectricTourCompany.com 415-528-5837 tour, which takes passengers soaring above the Golden ASK ABOUT PRIVATE AND GROUP TOURS

72 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 73 JOICE ST Map 1 DOWNTOWN UNION SQUARE Map 2

.25mi Ferry to: Sausalito,Tiburon Ferry to: Oakland KEY Orchard Garden Hotel 38 Chinatown

.5km STOCKTON ST

and Angel Island MUNI Bus Train Station Bike Route MASON ST BUSH ST Cafe de MONTGOMERY ST MONTGOMERY SS Jeremiah Cornell Hotel POWELL ST Orchard la Presse Cafe K Topsy’s Fun House

Pier 39 The Dragon Gate E O’Brien 38 MUNI Metro 10 Interstate Information Petite De France Hotel Claude

Hyde St. Pier Grant Hotel Triton A Rickhouse Pier 41 Auberge Starbucks AVE GRANT

Historic Ships Pier 45 USS Hotel R Ferry to: Cable Car Shopping Area Hospital Golden Gitane Cable Car Pampanito Metropolitan Gate Hotel American Calvin Klein N Clothiers Hyde Street Pier Fisherman’s Wharf Alcatraz Island Club Apparel Performance

Aquarium of 49 Y MILE Pier 35 Ferry Line SCENIC T DRIVE Scenic Drive Viewpoint Lori’s Margaret HE E Academy of Lululemon Post H MB ARCADERO the Bay L’Ottavo Hotel Rex The Diner O’Leary S

Y Beneﬁt The Alden Ofﬁce Art University T Cable D ST BART Stop Museum Univ./College Ristorante Cartwright SF Marriott E&O Kitchen E ERSON 39 Jos. A. Bank Cosmetics Shop FF JE S Car S Hotel Union Square and Bar The Hound Clothiers T Anchorage F P T To get around San Francisco, public transportation is recommended. O O 33 The Square M Aquatic T T C K CH S W R For information, call 511, or visit 511.org. Clipper Cards are all-in-one Golden Gate Cannery AS A SUTTER ST BEA E 1 K E Park JO Y E A Park T PI Hang Art Tap Room Galleria Park Hotel O LL ST James R. Herman transit cards available for use on MUNI, BART, CalTrain and more, LOR R R 3 Hotel F NE O R N Taj Campton Hotel N IE Banana N Beresford Gaspar Brasserie ANK F P clippercard.com. Sears Fine Food Y Cruise Ship Walgreens S Union Ghirardelli Marines’ Marines’

S Place ST Republic 30 S Vidal Sassoon ST Fort S T Akiko’s Chancellor Square T Terminal Memorial Memorial T DB L INT ST Sushi Bar Dolby Crocker Mason I PO Theatre Hotel Hotel Brooks Brothers N S TH Shoes Crocker NOR ST UT ST Chadwick Square T TN 7 19 BAY PFEIFFER S CHES SF Playhouse The Inn at Apple Couture Wilkes Bashford Galleria T 2 Embarcadero JW Marriott Gallery John Berggruen Gallery T R Bohemian The Union Square Tiffany Russian ST WATER S ST Store Galleria ANCISCO MBARD IE Club Olympic Hotel Farallon & Co Cole Haan R P Hill F LO 3 Morton’s Coach North Face 39 Pioneer 2 Club Kensington Saks Fifth Saks Fifth Wells Fargo Park T Hertz Steakhouse ST 49 Park ICH S IER Park Hotel Avenue Willams-Sonoma Nike Zara UT MILE NW P Rent a Car Avenue ST CHESTN GREE 19 San Francisco ISCO SCENIC R Hespe Gallery FRANC DRIVE NORTH COIT E Graff BurberryPrada Lombard RD ST ST PI Bay POST ST Johnston Pink Ilori Christian Dior Street BA Tower BERT T 7 Cop Copine Citibank COW LOM BEACH FIL H 1 Exploratorium S R Post Donatello Hotel Academy of & Murphy Shreve & Co AN E IE HOLLOW RT ST E P The Commonweath Art University Victoria’s Oliver Peoples FILBE N ST M 15 Hotel Nine West H ST TELEGRAPH S UNIO B Club Secret Rimowa Asian Arts IC OME Sandra Lee Gallery 101 ENW C Washington A PIER The Blazing Gallery Tory Burch GRE OL K R Gucci Square G 39 HILL 9 1 24 Meyerovich Gump’s Center EA C STF R European Saddles of Jewels Westin RUSSIAN U R N SF Art Union EE A E MBU GR R I ST A D D P MIADEN LN S Gallery T POW R BER O Bike Rentals St Francis L N I T E Exchange F N A 101 HILL MA R Ruby Skye S M NT Hermès T V TAY Arthur Beren Polk Street AV Y O Warwick Colibri Mexican Hublot Ritz-Carlton Ghiradelli Martin Lawrence I JO S O A ST S ST Square Paul L SO E E EJO Valentino V L Russian Hill N AL S Club T Hotel Britex Fabrics Chocolate E V L Bistro Galleries Dior NE L H E T Ferry to: Aveline G-Star Smith A L Hotel G OR T L N ST Y V G Hotel Diva BCBG AR Chanel Bottega Veneta Hawthorn S ST P S DE Bvlgari E T O DWAY OL V OA B N R VALLEJO FERRY S S B K F AN NES M A T T W Christopher-Clark Fine Art John Varvatos R IN S G K T VE GEARY ST Palace T E A O ANKLI C O I T F O I R GATE B S PAC CK Handlery Hotel ST Geary U E 1 2ND ST CT Cuyana Y Sydney G Rotunda Swatch Nespresso Hakkasan Hotel T RTH R R G E S Contemporary Y Walton Square Theater MARKET ST A H PI Clift Curran T Macy’s S L Neiman Marcus V UNNE N S A T ST S AY Swarovski Louis Vuitton Goorin S W Ferry Building I Hotel Theatre T AD Ferry to: AL/OAK Ted A O Pinecrest V R T B Brothers 49 Geary T E S Diner Baker Art Galleries T ST HARBOR BAY FERRY Steve Madden CHINATOWN WASHINGTON GATE E Gallery Transamerica Pyramid Kuleto’s Macy’s Men’s Store Walgreens Local Edition Wendi AY ST Embarcadero Center F 19 CL D Boudin Norris D 30 ST R Dollar Rent Alamo Rent National Bartlett Hall CIAL F Wells Fargo Cask AVIS U N ST COMMER R Justin a Car Car Rental Bakery Emporio Armani M J a Car CKSO O JA Herman 49 FINANCIAL DISTRICT NT M 14 T H MILE S Plaza ST ST S E O’FARRELL ST IA S GTON SCENIC ORN T T E ASHIN ALIF S T EU M W DRIVE MONTG C NOB T A B K RT A Johnny Foley’s Crate & Barrel Barney’s HILL E R Embarcadero T ST A CLAY ST Grace Cathedral ST S C Hilton SF Irish House Marshalls STEVENSON ST POW R T A NE AYLOR ST Ghirardelli J PI O O N D Union Square H&M JESSIE ST OMERY T C Lafayette Y 5 E ICE ENTO S T R K 38 M CRA S T S O Park A EL S S T H T BUS Disney YERBA BUENA LN O Chinatown S 5 RD L T A T N Dragon Gate

T GR S IA S ST ST W Hotel Armani Exchange Forever 21 RN ST CALIFO S T O N Contemporary T AN ON H SP Fusion

T S T Transbay Powell St Cable Car Union Crocker N S 38 EA T New Delhi UN E T ARKE Terminal INE ST Square Galleria V IE M R Four Seasons Jewish Museum P M S ST AVE TE ST N AI S JES N S Hotel 3RD ST EL ELLIS ST T ON ST B USH S Montbomery St. E Bluestem B E ISSI A ST T A T Enterprise Urban Outfitters John’s Grill Union EN LAN M M S F LE MAID T INNA O D T RE S Rent-A-Car Kin Khao Old Navy Brasserie ST S ST Square E M T R ST A S MON T Puccini Converse UTTER I A A S SS N IN 1S 80 Parc 55 NSON T & Pinetti E JE PIER 30 Levi’s Yerba Buena 38 V HOWA T T E EN T S S ST ST San Francisco S T T Hotel POST Contemporary TEHAM T 49 Sephora ALDO Walgreens SF Marriott 49 YE Jewish Museum Museum LEM OMES S MILE Center For MILE S Zelos 38 RBA of Modern Art C S T SCENIC Marquis SCENIC E N DRIVE T OL DRIVE RY ST F X A A Yerba Buena GAP GEA J BU S Y Hotel ON Glide T TENDERLOINLEAV 2 R YL The Arts T Center For HAW ND B Forever 21 H Memorial S E Bijou O N YDE The Arts T LA JAPANTOWN LL S ES T A S RRISON ST OFARRE R E L T T A ENW K S DE R N HO H S T R Westfield KI S Moscone T T A LA EDDY ST S EDDY M Metreon R St Mary's T San Francisco NE ST LIS ST N Hallidie Plaza Center N EL O 3RD Yerba Cathedral CE Hallidie ST Centre PIER 36 R SOUTH PO T T Y T S TURK Moscone S S Super Duper LITTLE H 14 T BEACH N S T Mikkeler Bar L Powell St. Center West Burgers Buena K ST 5 Children's IER 38 Plaza ST SAIGON T P 101 S Creativity T NNA Westfield ILLOW T T S A W T S S Museum N Y South R SF CityPass Jefferson F O IE N S 4 R B Chipotle Gardens S S IO T R Park PIER 40 Square ST S ST T H SF Visitor ELM AVE J JES S S ST ST PE Farmer San Francisco N GATE Information Center OLDE CIVIC EVEN MI NNA ST Brown V MA Margaret S Hayward G T T ST RI F S Y AN NES MI O E R T TC GO Metreon OLSOM Playground CENTER A ARD ST A S F L ST ST Z Hotel Metropolis Moscone AN ER ST Asian Art IP A O Nordstorm Centre IST N 5TH N H CALL MA TIN E ST L UGH M Museum L OW A SH AR SO S B K N A 5 Civic ST H H E I T Rack U ST CL R L SF War ON GUN T E 30 TURK ST Saks Off Mel’s Center North S FUL T M R I ST Bloomingdale’s CH Memorial Center N E A A H S City Hall H 5th Ave Drive-In & AR CL SH AT&T Park T T S V Plaza ST L A SOMA RU A T Performing R E T S T Hotel Zetta N Civic IE N Arts VE ST E SS WE J S O Center T 6 A EELON ST SF Giants A GR MO T Center ST T Y T N T ARK ST ST H R FR 30 The Cavalier IRCH S SS B B M ST ST S 19 N T T ST LAN ST HAYES INNA MA S 5TH ST ST M E IVY ATO G M ST N T BRANNAN S D CHINA The The Pickwick Moscone EN ST O 7TH XO Caltrain Warfield LIND N LU SEN BASIN Hotel Jillian’s Patricia's S S B N Depot Green T T Moscone Center ST Mint Plaza ST A HA OW T 4 ORY ST 11TH T S T HICK M R G H MARKET ST Old Mint R Center West South ST HA 8 IET N S CVS Pharmacy Mezzanine 4TH ST OAK E T KI T Building Z Pizza S T H O T MISSION T T G ST RRY ST 1 101 S ST IL 6TH ST C BE T HAYES 2 D B S T T T 14 R NT S E L A PAGE S H A R 9TH A T 49 h a n n e l VALLEY V B S Y T Children's SE ST R T L ST MILE C I RO AFA OW BR NNE Blue Bottle Cafe A B A H SCENIC A D ST DRIVE G Y Y ST T H F O E 10TH S W a t e r C Creativity L U S T ST T i n Hampton Inn GHT V G T E HAI H a s Dottie’s True STEVENSON ST D S AN J S T OLSOM S T N B T F T S 80 Blue Cafe Museum 11TH N D n a O O h i ELG S RE RAN C OTI B

P 8 ST T T E ST 19 S Intercontinental I ARRI H A N PL B 280 VARA S S ST 12TH T UM ST H S MISSION BAY ANN S R T ING T ER San Francisco HERM L P ST K S R JESSIE ST S A Y Y 6T HOWARD ST R W R S T N ST T H K C IVISIO R F LN V E D ST CS Buca U 4 O N T G TR AL FW 101 V BE A Y J TH U O ERMO LE di Beppo TEHAMA ST

ERRERO S PARK D S CLINTON NC

W DA ST ST T ALAME R O A T E I S 14TH N A P W R T B1

T S O E MISSION ST D S O N S N ST T S H T S MINNA ST T WI S NATOMA ST T 15TH ST IR T 8 15TH ST 15TH ST TH 16TH ST

74 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 75 Map 3 SAN FRANCISCO Map 3

NORTH GA N TE D

To: Sausalito & Ferry to: Ferry to: R O GOLDEN GATE R R

T D

MA T R Z C Wine Country Sausalito,Tiburon Oakland IT A H E LLA

M A BRIDGE I RD and Angel Island S Pier 39 N PIER 45 U YERBA BUENA KEY Pier 41 R S E IG Hyde St. Pier ISLND N Ferry to: IS F AL R Historic Ships LA O D ND RE Hyde Street Pier Fisherman’s Wharf Alcatraz Island R ST RD D Fort Aquarium of D United R States V T 38 HE E HI T A M L MUNI Bus Train Station Bike Route Point M NE H BARCADERO the Bay Pier 35 LC ESCoast Guard- ARI Golden Gate Nat'l N R DR Y D Recreation Area ST Group SF N ON Warming Hut E 39 E JEFFERS Cable S S S Anchorage POW T T F D S W R Car O 33 C The M C HT A Square Aquatic T ST K A L E C CH C R R V Cannery A A A D AY 1 S Y BE E 38 A O J T EEN E Park K IE 10 T N NA GR O S E A James R. Herman MUNI Metro Interstate Information S RI T P G B A L O LL I FRA R R 3 M N O O C L OR E V L N N I N N A F I Y E Cruise Ship Terminal L N B A S F P Y D V S L W Ghirardelli S V Marina Green NK T R D E 30 H O S O S S S Crissy T M ST R Fort Square T Park T I T T F VD T L RSON ST LIN ST N A F A B T FFE T ST R M A Field RIN LARI E JE IN A A ST MA R Mason H PO M N S C ORT ST O L N T 90 H O AVIAVI ST ST TNU A Y R Cable Car IS W BA IFFE CHES 7 U.S. Highway Hospital Golden Gate C T A T 19 PFE N T T S G 2 R EAD C RSON S PRADDOO S Y BEACH Embarcadero E RI C U ST FFE R RD S S JE E ST ATER ST T R N SCO W RD M 101 SY VANT ST RANCI MBA National MARINAMARINA T A F LO F CrissyC r i s s y POIN PIE IE ST TH 39 23 ST H E NOR S Pioneer 49 L ON BEAC DISTRICTDISTRICT S T R D MAS D T ST 49 Park ICH S IE MILE E Field G BL T W Recreation S A O OY STNU MILE EEN P 9 T T E R L SCENIC V O VD H G 1 REY V 101 R Palace of 30 TT C SCENIC S Y S Ferry Line DRIVE E T O ST A G N Scenic Drive Viewpoint I T DRIVE COIT A L PO S CISC NORTH ER A I TH WAY T BAY AN Lombard T I V E S The Walt Disney K S N Fine Arts NOR AAPPRRA SM Moscone FR RD ST P N A Area C A MB Tower ERT 7

E D Street T E Family Museum A O FILB A A A L 1 San Francisco V L COW BEACH H

O EC R S S Exploratorium V R WL D ST RD E VI VI L Recreation IER A L T B L E

T O V O

A C E L T P

AVE L L I S S B L EDI T S Y M HOLLOW N E

N Center ER E R B O L N R L ST BAY ST A A A FIL N ST M 15 Bay

L ET L I A RD E AY H IO N N C N L D B S P N O E RD L ST TELEGRAPH U P C C ER A C ST A B A CH I R H I O IN O AV A W Washington

O L RA EEN AR P R T M L 101 R COLU O S I KE BART Stop S N ST 30 G ME S W G 9 T WEL O T HILL Museum University/College T H B LY R ISC S Square 39 E G LIA M T OR T I SFRONT P L P N L C RANC O N C A E A L RUSSIAN R T E V F D GN AR E N O T L GO VE D I T MA RE A B R S H T S M G D PIER U U Y A G Y T ST O L P S A I TN RT D V D I ES E BU V LB D D CCH T FI O N RE R 49 NY N HILL M A 101 NTGO E D C TA VE D V D A AM RN MILE I S O V R T O TAYL L V P O ZA A A EY S SA ChestnutChestnut Polk Street WE T F O N T SCENIC A AV O O O I M I L A B L S HER V ST S M S N A ST DRIVE T S AV E S L LEJO B ES D D ST E L R S AN StreetStreet A N Russian Hill VA S San Francisco E ON V .25 .5 1 mi RAH A B TO LL ST N A M E BL E TE LO UL HY T T BRID V LE ERO O V M A A G S E R O E T Ferry to: L N I LAR BakerB a k e r BLVD National S E M E C K M VE

O S KEY V 101 ST

Shopping Area B O R RD P R Y O D

.25 .5 1 km D H K A ST WA B ERY ME H S D

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E V T IN N VI N

V R EBS U S T G ER B IL G P L S L V A A FI A To get around San Francisco, public transportation is recommended. For L H S O S O B P C N DWAY T T TE A

E U A O A A P L T VE N SHERM S T BR I O RD D AN Ferry Building V A R S M A N I K R MOR R T 49 S P D T AUMAN A E S H R ON CO I Presidio Of A M ST MILE A NE L NFAN ORTOL N ER S A O R S T ST I O T NI N A P Y N P SI U AN GTO Ferry to: AL/OAK SCENIC M C

R N D R T O T CHINATOWN IN

M R ASH U E N DRIVE T R W R T information, call 511, or visit 511.org. Clipper Cards are all-in-one transit San Francisco T O OP O D R S

W R M O E A N S S S

T A E O G H L

O T H E O

M W B S A T O L Y S G F P S S HARBOR BAY FERRY A T AC T G ST N I T ST I D I E Transamerica Pyramid R D H AS R EN S T T T S R L I R GRE Embarcadero Center F D T D A E R A R O Y ST 80 R H SI D 19 D R BLV CLA GATE E W P A I C I BL DA ON G I A cards available for use on MUNI, BART, CalTrain and more, clippercard.com. R T D NGTO S 30 ST LV U L IAL FRONT P P RC E T A B TT E U M N N UE E S S ST MM GTO Q Y R LEJO N CO Justin O IN L VI J S VA KSO M C H T ST K JAC D S B Z 1 ST S Herman T FINANCIAL DISTRICT M 14 P R A L 49 S

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H L B L S E S WASH DRIVE CA M T NOB MO T UAR T

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F A O A D L Bay Bridge G R O

E L L E HILL T A AV N Embarcadero R

V R G T IC ST UEL IFIC S A L L Y

U L PAC LA Grace Cathedral T S C D C TGO S

D I E O N P T R N

B I A Fillmore JO P A to Treasure O O BL R N

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C T S C V Lafayette 5 N O W IC PresidioP r e s i d i o Inspiration Point ST ENT Y T E KT 38 L ME D M Y SSONON A S R CK CR T Island, A A E S J Park S EL S R Alta USH D O Golf Course T B O Chinatown CO E ST 5 R R T L

T T VE N S Plaza T A East Bay and N A N

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S GTO T GRA S I IC S T IF SHHININ IA S ST A RN L W FO T SO A PAC B ALI ST S N B N W C I B T Oakland R RODE ON HOW S G D S Transbay PE N Crocker PRESIDIO HEIGHTS T Union ST 38 T Y S STT A PRE YY U EN Terminal A T A W E E T E CL NE S Galleria M R International PI N Square L V MARKET BAKE S E T S WA TEV SSI ST AIN S A RI N E T VE W D S LE S TO ST E PL O J N L A N Airport L N E E RI E T C M I B RRAA PE YO O E N CC R D RB SA L S ST BE S LA L ST LO M A TE K ST SH B G U Montbomery St. T E I R N B F AV IO R ALE CLIF O E E EA SP N AN ST S UE L U M

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R T HEIGHTS L H TENDERLOIN Y 2 R R U K LAKE ST HA ND B INNER PALM E T RRI A SEACLIFF I L RDA H MMO E Memorial E K S S Center For T AV O N A M A Y E E UUTTTER S FILLMORE LL ST L T A W S H S A E The Arts L SS J T T JAPANTOWN R A R E RICHMOND R R T E DE E V OFA O T ALL ST V A Hamilton Recreation E K L Moscone W H DELAN RN HO D CO RKI N D N I UCSF ST A N R RNIA ST E L N ST Westﬁeld O ALIFO E UC Center S A Center C A V 38 N E W EDDY R R ES IN L A ST M Metreon VE E St Mary's T T San Francisco NE M PPOST S N E WE A 44 VE Hallidie Plaza LLIS O C G A Laurel Hill E 3RD ST ST VA S C L Lincoln Park T N Cathedral S E IA S S Centre 36

V RN RDE R

I LIFO A F EY IER R Legion Of Honor O CA W GG SOUTH T P PO

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N L T SAIGON T N K S S O Raymond Kimball C Dept Of Veterans I L Creativity O AVE T LOW ST T A N L S E KaiserKaiser Permanente- Permanente- S I ST ANNAN

L T R L W I K E ST A S R S R R N Museum R D FA Playground N S OO A S E South B R T M Affairs Med Ctr San FranciscoS S I N E F 4 S W Jefferson S T VE S RRY T T S O T T T SO S T I FO EMENT T S ST T H Park P CL T T R ST N T S E Square MIL T OOD J A S S PE IE 40 EY C J J ELM AVE JE SSI ST R I E O O I R V O VISTA AV LIS ST N GATE N A T M A A EL DE EVEN M N S R S S GOL CIVIC I O ST DE BLVD N R Margaret S Hayward S 38 GEARY TE E E ST M OM D ST L T RI 49 P P ST 30 Z 101 T G O S L S Playground CENTER AR LEY ST Z C MILE H H WESTERN ST F P R A ST R D Kaiser Permanente- T OUG M SEAL ROCK DY LISTE Asian Art NAT W INA 5 I A O H S SCENIC S S ED L R V CA MA T E DRIVE L M Museum O San Francisco A H SH A A I L SON A A ADDITION BU NT T A H L I S VD S R GEARY BL 5 Civic ST E T B V V SF War ON EH S C R T G T T T W H S FUL T M T R S 30 EA S University of A E E LM C Center E Sutro Baths E UN Memorial ST F H E H E City Hall HA T IL H AT&T Park V A S S & A S UM CL San Francisco BS A RK T Plaza T ST S 38 NZA ST TU P S R L A V T ANAN ST SOMA R O L ON A Performing R I T B 1 SC U E T O E ER M TE T I R S Civic N L DIV INT RY BLVD Arts E S E WE O EA INE J G S OVE Cliff House P O GR Center T 6 EEL SF Giants O MOS S VE O OR A C T T YA R TE R Center RK S S T N G GAA H R F S N A S T T ST E E ST T Sutro T H IS B LD S C O R S T BIR 44 WI OUTER ZA ST G E M S S N AN C T 2 T S S 19 T N I A A A 2 S 2

Heights A S E T 7 T LA S LLA A E M ST S NNA N 8 M DE S T E ST 9 T Y T RICHMOND N V E AV ST A T H V AT EER O N T G N T A ISTIST MI T 2 LL E Park H L ST T DEN T 3 E L A Y H AV C O R IV G S H AV R G M A RA 4 S 5T N R 8 R AV 6 CHINA 7TH T O B 9 D O N T 1 T F Caltrain S A 7 T D O A 1 T ST Z D AN 1 NOPA N ND 1 T S T 1 UNS H NI 0 H E 1 H ST L N 1 H Alamo LINDE UXOME 4 H 1 2 H T BASIN 1 University of SS E 5 L 1 T AV Depot A NN T Patricia's 2 Painted Ladies ST E 6 A T O S T E 2 A T 7 T AV C B ST 2 8

A T O H AV A AV FUL LB 2 9 A 2 A B VE 0 T H AV N T A 2 H Square Green 2 V at Alamo Square T San Francisco 2 H 1 T V ST WNS H V 5 3 T T V E AV 5 T H 3 4 V N H AV E H 6 E O S H AV E AV ST T E T RD H AV ON AVE E H AV AV E 4 31ST 0 ST 3 T E T 3 AV AR S T T RY T S A 1 N 3 D A T 3 R H CKO MA 36TH AV TT I T TE E 3 H S SS H 2 1 3 T H AV E H O 3 3 E LLI S 5 A A R 4 E C AV CL T 4 H AV E RD A A M E GROVE ND 9 NG 41ST AV I S A E C H 8 7 T H 4 I S T H 8 ET T E 4 K S Y 0 SSI ST E 4 A 4 T T LBOA E O T K A V B T T VE 2 H V E O B R 4 H E 3 ST TE L ST E St Mary'sS A T H 4 4 5 H O R A G H AV E MI H AV T 4 ND E U A 6 R AV E S H 101 AV T Y S E H LE ST T A E S S 7 T 1 A I VE ST AV ESES Y CT 8 T L B T N D E Medical R V O T HA T ST T R H 2 T L D H AV B P VE FU HAYES A T H A V ON Y E ST E L A A E T n n e l H AV T S L O S G 14 A E L A AV E BRIL PA R E H AV CA Center a VE NYA H

A E A ANT S E DER A T S 49 h E 9 E T VIA VE Y N VE E VALLEY B WAR C T V ST S T MILE T YA E R S VE S R T L ERVA RO H N E A T E S 5 T ST A B SCENIC ON O FAYE HO T S t e r A E C N S S DRIVE D T H E S R S B G Y 1M T W a C T Y

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78 WHERE I JANUARY 2018 79 WHERE IN SAN FRANCISCO Destination: All in.

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JOB #: GRT-145823 JOB TITLE: DESTINATION ALL IN PUBLICATION: WHERE SF INSERTION DATE: JAN 2018 COLOR INFO: 4/C TRIM: 6.875” x 10” LIVE: 6.375” x 9.5” BLEED: 7.125” x 10.25”