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San Francisco 9

San Francisco 9

300 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P304 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P306 3 ENTERTAINMENT P307

7 SHOPPING P307

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P308 Index 4 SLEEPING P309

16th Ave Steps 137 A IDS (Acquired Immune Bay Area Rapid Transit, see Historical Society 22nd St Hill 175 Deficiency Syndrome) BART Museum 86 49 Geary 83 264 Bay Bridge 13, 80, 284, 17 Calistoga 231 77 Geary 83 air travel 286-7 Bay Model Visitor Center car travel 286, 289-90 826 Valencia 151 Alamo Square Park 186, 190 (Sausalito) 224 Carnaval 21, 157 1906 Great Quake & Fire Alcatraz 9, 52-5, 8, 52 21, 23 85-6 283-4 alleyways 20 beaches 20, 61, 206 Casa Nuestra (St Helena) 1989 Loma Prieta Quake 284 ambulances 293 Beat movement 118, 119, 229 Amtrak 287 122, 131, 262 Castello di Amorosa Angel Island 228 Beat Museum 118 (Calistoga) 229-30 A animals 19-20, 24 30, 32, 270 Castro, the 49, 173-82, accommodations 336 93 239-52, see also AP Hotaling Warehouse 82 accommodations 241, 251 Sleeping subindex 58 Benziger (Glen Ellen) 236 drinking & nightlife 174, Avenues, the 252 Aquatic Park 57 Berkeley 217-20, 218 177, 180-1 Castro, the 251 architecture 19, 191, 279-82, Bernal Heights 171 entertainment 181 248-9 5, 190-1 bicycling 41, 74, 87, 113, 214, food 174, 176-7 Civic Center & the area codes 296 232, 238, 291 highlights 173-4 Tenderloin 243-7 arts 273-5 bike-share program 291 shopping 174, 181-2 Downtown 243-7 Asian Art Museum 81 bisexual travelers 36-7 sights 175 Fillmore 249-50 ATMs 294 bluegrass music 34 transportation 174 Financial District & Audium 139 boat tours 74-6, 291 175, 179 Jackson Square 243-7 Avenues, the 49, 200-15, boat travel 75, 291 Catharine Clark Gallery 153 Fisherman’s Wharf 242-3 342-3 Bob Kaufman 119 cell phones 296 252 accommodations 241, 252 Bohemian Club 84-5 children, travel with 24-5 Haight, the 251-2 drinking & nightlife 201, books 254, 271-2 Children’s Creativity Hayes Valley 251-2 211-13 BR Cohn (Glen Ellen) 236 Museum 86 entertainment 213 249-50 Brannan, Sam 257 Chinatown 49, 115-32, 334-5 food 201, 207, 210-11 Marina, the 242-3 Brannan St Wharf 113 accommodations 241, Mission, the 250-1 highlights 200-1 270, see also beer 248-9 Nob Hill 249-50 shopping 213-14 Buena Vista Park 186 courses 132 NoPa 251-2 sights 205-6 bus travel 287-8 drinking & nightlife 116, 130 North Beach 248-9 sports & activities business hours 27, 31, food 116, 126-7 214-15 Pacific Heights 249-50 39, 292 highlights 115-16 transportation 201 Piers, the 242-3 shopping 132 wildlife 201 Presidio, the 242-3 C sights 119, 123-4 Russian Hill 249-50 Cable Car Museum 136 tours 125 SoMa 247-8 B cable cars 9, 24-5, 43-5, 84, transportation 116 Union Square 243-7 61 136, 45, 8, 43, 259 Chinese Cultural Center 119 activities 21-3, 41-2, see Baker St Steps 137 Cade (Angwin) 230 Chinese Historical Society also individual 151 cafes 30-1, 32 of America 119, 123 neighborhoods, Sports BART 286, 289 Cal-Fusion cuisine 29, Chinese Telephone & Activities subindex Bartholomew Park Winery 267-8 Exchange 123 (Sonoma) 235 California Academy of Church of St Mary the Sights 000 baseball 113-14 Sciences 203-4, 208 Virgin 63 Map Pages 000 bathrooms 296 California College of the churches 63, 64, 88, 119, Arts 153 123, 136, 138, 224 Photo Pages 000 Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito) 224 257-9 cinemas 34, 35 301 City Hall 87-8, 281, 91 Gallery 136, festivals 21-3 free attractions 18-19, 24, City Lights 131, 262, 129, 274 Filbert St Steps 117, 137, 34, 35 262 Dipsea Trail 221 128 Frog’s Leap (Rutherford) Civic Center & the disabilities, travelers Fillmore 49, 133-48, 331 229 Tenderloin 48-9, 77-114, with 297 accommodations 241, funk music 34, 277 322 discount cards 292-3 249-50

accommodations 241, Dogpatch Creative drinking & nightlife INDEX 243-7 Corridor 13, 166 134, 144 G Galería de la Raza 152 drinking & nightlife 78, Dolores Park 151, entertainment 134, 144-5 164 gay & lesbian rights 255, 99-101 dot-com boom 266 food 134, 142-3 264-5 C -

entertainment 78, 105-7 H Downtown 48, 77-114, 319-26 highlights 133-4 gay marriage 255, 264-5 food 78, 95-6 accommodations 241, shopping 146-8 gay travelers 36-7, 104 highlights 77-8, 81 243-7 sights 138-9 George Sterling Park 136 shopping 111-12 drinking & nightlife 78, sports & activities 148 58 sights 81, 87-9 98-9 transportation 134 Ginsberg, Allen 118, 122, entertainment 78, 105-7 transportation 78 Fillmore St Jazz District 131, 262, 271 food 78, 89, 92-5, 97 152 145 GLBT culture 36-7 highlights 77-8, 79-80 classical music 34, 276 films 19, 34, 35, 254 GLBT History Museum 175 shopping 108-11 Financial District & climate 21-3, 64, 206 Glide Memorial United Jackson Square 77-114, Cline Cellars (Sonoma) sights 79-80, 82-5 Methodist Church 88 319 235-6 sports & activities 113-14 Gold Rush 257-9 clubs 31, 32, 36-7 transportation 78 accommodations 241, 243-7 7, Coastal Trail 205 drag queens 36-7 59-60, 6, 47, 59, 69 drinking & nightlife cocktails 30, 32, 270 Dragon’s Gate 124, 129 78, 98 Golden Gate National drinking & nightlife 12, Recreation Area (Marin 9, 117, 9, 117 entertainment 78, 105-7 30-1, see also County) 225 Columbarium 205-6 food 78, 89, 92, 94 Drinking & Nightlife Golden Gate Park 7, 202-4, Columbus Tower 118 highlights 12, 77-8, 79-80 subindex, individual 202 comedy 33, 35 neighborhoods shopping 110-11 Commercial St 120 Golden Gate Park drinks 30-2, 267-70 sights 79-80, 82-3 (neighborhood) 49, driving, see car travel transportation 78 200-15, 342-3 204, 7 drugs, see legal matters fire 293 accommodations 241, Contemporary Jewish Fisherman’s Wharf 56-8, 252 Museum 86, 281 56 E drinking & nightlife 201, Coolbrith, Ina 136-7 Fisherman’s Wharf 211-13 earthquakes 283-4 Coppola, Francis Ford 118 (neighborhood) 48, entertainment 213 East Bay 220, 218 Cornerstone Sonoma 50-76, 314 food 201, 207, 210-11 (Sonoma) 235 Eleanor Harwood accommodations 241, Gallery 153 highlights 7, 200-1, 175 242-3 202-4 Electric Works 86 costs 27, 34, 239, 240, drinking & nightlife shopping 213-14 292-3, 296 electricity 293 51, 71-2 sights 202-4, 205-6 Cottage Row 138 Eli Ridgway 87 entertainment 72 sports & activities 214-15 courses 28, 132, 199 emergencies 293 food 51, 64-5, 67 transportation 201 Cow Hollow 63 entertainment 33-5, see highlights 10, 50-1, 56-8 golf courses 76, 215 Creativity Explored 152 also Entertainment shopping 72-3 subindex, individual Good Luck Parking Garage sights 56-8, 63 60-1 neighborhoods 124 sports & activities 74-6 Crocker Bank Building 84 ethnic food 268 Grace Cathedral 136 transport 51 Crown Point Press 87 ethnicity 255 graphic novels 272 fog 60, 64, 206 culture 254-5 etiquette 30-1 Grateful Dead, the 186, 276 food 26-9, 267-70, see currency 14 events 21-3, 28, 38-9 Grateful Dead House also farmers markets, customs regulations 292 186, 190 11, 13, 62, Eating subindex, cycling, see bicycling 11, 62 individual Green Festival 23 neighborhoods green living 13, 23, 254 Guerrero Gallery 153 D F food trucks 27-8, 65, 67 dance 33, 35, 42 farmers markets 28 football 172 Gundlach-Bundschu Winery (Sonoma) 235 dance clubs 32, 36-7 Federal Building 87 206 dangers, see safety Ferlinghetti, Lawrence 131, Center 63 Darioush (Napa) 230 262, 271 Fort Point 61 H di Rosa Art + Nature Ferry Building 12, 79-80, Francisco St Steps 137 Haas-Lilienthal House Preserve (Napa) 229 94, 12, 79 Frankenart Mart 205 138, 191 302 Haight, the 49, 183-99, Howl 131, 254, 262, 271 Lombard, Kirk 210 sports & activities 171-2 338-9 Hunter S Thompson Crash Lombard St 135, 135, 140 transportation 150 accommodations 241, Pad 186 London, Jack 88, 235 walks 154, 154 251-2 Hwy 1 237 Loof Carousel 86, 24 Mission Bay 113 drinking & nightlife 184, Los Angeles 290 Mission Dolores 151-2, 189, 192 I Lotta’s Fountain 85 280, 156

INDEX INDEX entertainment 194 Ikenobo Ikebana Society LSD (lysergic acid mobile phones 296 food 184, 186, 188 138 diethylamide) 263 money 14, 27, 34, 239, 240, highlights 183-4, 185 Ina Coolbrith Park 136-7 Luggage Store Gallery 89 292-3, 294

H shopping 194-5, 198 internet access 293 Lunar New Year Parade motorcycle travel 289-90 -

N sights 185, 186 itineraries 16-17 21, 23 movie locations 19, 60, 135, sports & activities 199 Lyon St Steps 137 182, 205 transportation 184 mud baths 231 walks 187, 187 J Muir Beach 221 Haight St 185 Alley 118, 18 M Muir Woods & Muir Beach 136 Hallidie, Andrew 43-4 Jack Kerouac’s Love 220-1, 222-3 magazines 292 Haring, Keith 136 Shack 137 Muir Woods National malls 38 Harvey Milk Plaza 175 Jack London State Historic Monument 221, 227 Park (Glen Ellen) 235 marijuana, see legal Hayes Valley 49, 183-99, Mumm Napa (Rutherford) Jackson Square 82 matters 340 229 Marin County 220-5, accommodations 241, James Flood Building 85 222-3 MUNI (Municipal Transit 251-2 Jane Warner Plaza 175 transportation 291 Agency) 287-8 drinking & nightlife 184, Japanese Tea Garden 204 Marin Headlands 225 murals 117, 151, 152, 273, 192, 193 Japantown 49, 133-48, 331 Marin Headlands Visitor 274-5 entertainment 194 accommodations 241, Center (Marin County) Musée Mécanique 57 225 food 184, 189, 192 249-50 Museum of the African Marina, the 48, 50-76, highlights 183-4 drinking & nightlife Diaspora (MOAD) 86 316-17 shopping 198-9 134, 144 Museum of Craft & Design accommodations 241, 155 sports & activities 199 entertainment 134, 144-5 242-3 museums 18, 25 transportation 184 food 134, 142-3 drinking & nightlife highlights 133-4 music 34, 35, 276-8 Headlands Center for the 51, 71-2 Arts (Marin County) 225 shopping 146-8 entertainment 72 health insurance 293-4 sights 138-9 food 51, 64-5, 67-71 N Hess Collection (Napa) 229 sports & activities 148 highlights 50-1, 59-61 Napa Valley 225, 228-33, hip-hop music 34, 277 transportation 134 shopping 73-4 230 historic sites 20 jazz 34, 144, 145, 194, 278 sights 59-61, 63 Native Americans 52, 53 history 20, 256-66 Justin Herman Plaza 80 transport 51 newspapers 292 Barbary Coast 258 nightlife, see drinking & walks 66, 66 Beat movement 262 nightlife, Drinking & K marine life 10 cable cars 43-4 Nightlife subindex Kaufman, Bob 119 Marine Mammal Center California Gold Rush 257-9 Nike Missile Site SF-88 kayaking 114 (Marin County) 225 (Marin County) 225 Chinese in Kaz Winery (Kenwood) 235 Maritime Museum (Aquatic 258-9 Nob Hill 49, 133-48, 332-3 Kerouac, Jack 118, 122, Park Bathhouse) 58 accommodations 241, earthquakes 260-1, 283-4 137, 262 Masonic Auditorium 137-8 249-50 GLBT rights 264-5 Kesey, Ken 263 medical services 293-4 Hippie movement 262-3 drinking & nightlife 134, Klussmann, Friedel 44 MH 143-4 Japanese in San Konko Church 138 203, 208 Francisco 261-2 entertainment 134, 144-5 Kunde (Kenwood) 235 Milk, Harvey 88, 175, 206, food 134, 139, 142 mission settlement 264 151-2, 256-7 highlights 133-4 Mission, the 49, 149-72, shopping 145-6 tech boom 265-6 L 328-9 sights 136-8 holidays 295-6 Las Vegas 290 accommodations 241, homelessness 84, 184, 255 Leary, Timothy 263 250-1 transportation 134 Hosfelt Gallery 153 legal matters 293 drinking & nightlife Nobby Clarke Mansion 175 205 150, 12 Noe Valley 49, 173-82, 337 lesbian rights 255, 264-5 entertainment 163, 166-9 food 176-7 Sights 000 lesbian travelers 36-7 food 150, 155, 158-61 highlights 173-4 Map Pages 000 Lincoln Park 205 highlights 12, 149-50 shopping 174, 182 Photo Pages 000 literature 254, 271-2 shopping 169-71 sights 175 local life 19 sights 151-5 transportation 174 303 NoPa (North of the 64, 68 highlights 50-1, 59-61 Ruth Asawa Fountain Panhandle) 13, 49, parklets 13 shopping 73-4 (Union Square) 83 183-99, 338-9 Patricia’s Green 192 sights 59-61, 64 Ruth Asawa Fountains accommodations 241, (Japantown) 138 Peace Pagoda 138, 141 sports & activities 76 251-2 pets, travel with 295 transport 51 drinking & nightlife 184, walks 66, 192-3 pharmacies 294 66 S Presidio Base 61 safety 284, 296 INDEX entertainment 194 phonecards 296 Pride Mountain (St Helena) sailing 42, 74, 114 food 184, 188 photography 273 229 Saints Peter & Paul Church highlights 183-4 10, 56, 10 Pride movement 264-5 119 N shopping 198 Piers, the (neighborhood) - 48, 50-76, Pride Parade 22 same-sex marriage 255, 264-5 S sights 186 315 accommodations 241, Proposition 8 255 San Francisco 49ers 172 transportation 184 242-3 public holidays 295-6 San Francisco Botanical Norman y Mineta San Jose drinking & nightlife 51 punk music 34, 278 Garden (Strybing International Airport Arboretum) 204 (SJC) 286-7 entertainment 72 food 51, 64-5 San Francisco Carousel 58 North Beach 49, 115-32, R 113-14 334-5 highlights 9, 11, 50-1, 52-5 radio 292 shopping 72-3 San Francisco International accommodations 248-9 Railroad & Ferry Depot Airport (SFO) 286 sights 52-5, 62, 63 Museum (Tiburon) 224 drinking & nightlife 116, San Francisco International transport 51 127, 130 Randall Junior Museum 175 Film Festival 21 planning entertainment 130-1 Ratio 3 153-4 San Francisco Main Library food 116, 124-6 accommodations 241 Ravenswood Winery 88-9 highlights 9, 115-16 budgeting 14-15, 27, 34, (Sonoma) 236 San Francisco Maritime shopping 131-2 292-3 Redwood Park 82 National Historical sights 117, 118-19 children, travel with 24-5 Regusci (Napa) 229 Park 57 transportation 116 festivals & events 21-3 Richmond, the 200-15, 342-3 San Francisco Museum of itineraries 16-17 Modern Art (SFMOMA) 85 walks 122, 122 drinking & nightlife 201, repeat visitors 13 San Francisco 206 nudity 20, 175 211-13 San Francisco basics 14-15 entertainment 213 Santa Cruz 237 San Francisco food 201, 207, 210 Sarria, José 264 O neighborhoods 48-9, highlights 200-1 Sausalito 66, 221-5, 222-3 Oakland International 48-9 shopping 213-14 sculpture 275 Airport (OAK) 286 travel seasons 14-15, 21-3 sights 205-6 sea lions 10, 56, 10 Ocean Beach 89, 206, 208 websites 14-15 sports & activities 214-15 seafood 268-9 Octagon House 63 playgrounds 25 transportation 201 shopping 10, 29, 38-40, Old St Hilary’s (Tiburon) poetry 271 Rincon Park 80 see also Shopping 224 Point Bonita Lighthouse Rivera, Diego 136, 274 subindex, individual Old St Mary’s Cathedral & (Marin County) 225 neighborhoods Square 123 Robert Mondavi Winery Point Reyes National (Oakville) 230 skateboarding 42 One Montgomery Seashore 234 Robert Sinskey (Napa) 229 skating 42 Terrace 83 police 293 rock-climbing 76 skyscrapers 281-2 opening hours 27, 31, 39, 292 politics 254-5 rock music 34, 276-7 smoking 31 opera 34, 276 pop-up restaurants 27 Robert Louis Stevenson social issues 84, 184, 254-5 Portsmouth Square 123 State Park (Napa social media 254, 266 P postal services 295 Valley) 230-1 SoMa (South of Market) Pacific Heights 133-48, 331 Potrero Gulch 153 rooftop gardens 83 48-9, 77-114, 324-5 accommodations 241, 49, 149-72, 330 Root Division 155 accommodations 241, 249-50 entertainment 163, 166-9 120, 121 247-8 drinking & nightlife food 155, 158-61 running 41 drinking & nightlife 78, 101-5 134, 144 highlights 149-50 Russian Hill 49, 133-48, 332-3 entertainment 134, 144-5 sights 151-5 accommodations 241, entertainment 78, 107-8 food 134, 142-3 sports & activities 171-2 249-50 food 78, 96-8 highlights 133-4 transportation 150 drinking & nightlife 134, highlights 77-8 shopping 146-8 Powell St Cable Car 143-4 shopping 112-13 sights 138-9 Turnaround 84 entertainment 134 sights 85-7 transportation 134 Presidio, the 48, 50-76, 318 food 134, 139, 142 sports & activities 113-14 Pacific Telephone accommodations 241, highlights 133-4, 135 transportation 78, 87 Building 281 242-3 shopping 145-6 SOMArts 153 Pacific-Union Club 138 drinking & nightlife 51 sights 135, 136-8 Sonoma Plaza (Sonoma) Palace Hotel 84 food 51, 71 transportation 134 234-5 304 Sonoma State Historic tea 132, 204 vegan & vegetarian Addendum (Yountville) Park (Sonoma technology 254, 265-6 travelers 269 232 Valley) 235 Telegraph Ave (Berkeley) Victorian architecture 191, Anchor Oyster Bar 176 Sonoma Valley 233-8, 230 217 279-80, 5, 190-1 Anda Piroshki 171 bread 269 Telegraph Hill 117 visas 297 Angel Island Cafe (Angel South Beach 113 telephone services 296 vista points 19, 51 Island) 228

INDEX INDEX South Park 88 temples 123, 120-1 visual arts 273-5 Axum Cafe 188 Southern Exposure 153 Tenderloin, the volunteering 292 Aziza 210 spas 231 (neighborhood), see

AT E spectator sports 41, Civic Center & the 113-14, 172 Tenderloin W B walking tours 125 B Star Bar 207 I

NG Spofford Alley 120 theater 34, 35 walks 137 Bar Crudo 188 spoken-word readings Thompson, Hunter S 186 Haight, the 187, Barbacco 92 33, 272 Tiburon 221-5, 222-3 187 Barney’s Burgers 177 sports 41-2, see also Tien Hau Temple 120, 123, Marina & Presidio, the 66, Sports & Activities 120-1 66 Basil Thai Canteen 97 subindex, individual Tilden Regional Park Mission, the 154, 154 Benkyodo 142 neighborhoods, (Berkeley) 218 North Beach 122, 122 Benu 97 individual sports time 296 Walt Disney Family Betelnut 70 SS Jeremiah O’Brien 58 Museum 64 Bio 97 stairways 137 tipping 27 Warner, Jane 175 Bi-Rite 161 Sterling, George 136 toilets 296 Washington Square 118-19 Bi-Rite Creamery 158 Stern Grove Festival 22 tourist information 296-7 water sports 42 Bistro Don Giovanni (Napa) Stow Lake 204 tours 60, 74-6, 125, 210, 232, 291, 294-5 Wave Organ 63 232-3 streetcars 288-9, 178 train travel 287, 291 Waverly Place 120, 120 Blue Barn Gourmet 70 Strybing Arboretum, trams, see cable cars weather 21-3, 60, 64, 206 Bocadillos 92 see San Francisco Botanical Garden 82 websites 31, 39, 242 Bouchon (Yountville) 232 Sue Bierman Park 80 Transbay Transit Tower 107 Wellington (Glen Ellen) Bouchon Bakery 236 (Yountville) 232 Sun Terrace 83 transgender/transsexual travelers 36-7 Wells Fargo History 65 Sun Yat-sen 120 transport passes 288 Museum 82-3 Sunset, the Boulette’s Larder 94, 26 whale-watching 74 (neighborhood) 200-15, travel to San Francisco 286-7 Boulevard 97-8 342-3 travel within San Francisco windsurfing 42 Bounty Hunter Wine Bar drinking & nightlife 201, 287-91 wine 30, 32, 102, 270 & Smokin’ BBQ (Napa) 211-13 wineries 229-31, 235-6 231-2 winery tours 75, 232 Boxed Foods 92 entertainment 213 U Bread & Cocoa 93 food 201, 210-11 Union Square 83 Women’s Building 152 Brenda’s French Soul highlights 200-1 Union Square women travelers 37, 297 shopping 213-14 (neighborhood) 77-114, Food 95 sights 206 95, 320-1 Brioche Bakery 124 X Burgermeister 177 sports & activities 214-15 accommodations 241, Xanadu Gallery: Folk Art transportation 201 243-7 International 85 Burma Superstar 207 wildlife 201 drinking & nightlife 78, Butler & the Chef 96 surfing 42 98-9 Y sustainability 254 entertainment 78, 105-7 C food 78, 92-3 205 Cafe Asia 81 highlights 77-8 87, 90 Swedenborgian Church 64 Cafe Claude 93 shopping 109-10 swimming 42 Cafe Jacqueline 125-6 sights 83-5 Z Cafe La Haye (Sonoma) transportation 78 zines 272 237-8 T United Nations Plaza 89 Cafe Zitouna 95 tacos 159 University of California, Carmel Pizza 65 Tactile Dome 62 Berkeley 217, 226 5 EATING Cassava 210 taxes 296 US Immigration Station 21st Amendment Chairman 188 taxis 286, 289 (Angel Island) 228 97 Chantal Guillon Macarons USS Pampanito 58 189 Sights 000 A Cheese Board Pizza Map Pages 000 V A16 70 (Berkeley) 219 Photo Pages 000 Vallejo St Steps 137 Acquerello 142 Cheese Plus 139 Vedanta Society 63 Ad Hoc (Yountville) 232 Chez Maman West 189 305 Chez Panisse (Berkeley) Girl & the Fig (Sonoma) 219 236 M R Chilango 176 Gitane 95 Magnolia Brewpub 188 Radish 158 Chile Pies 176 Golden Gate Market Mamacita 70-1 Ragazza 188 Chocolate Lab 166 (Sausalito) 224 Mama’s 124 Rainbow Grocery 161 Chow 176 Gott’s Roadside (Financial Mara’s Italian Pastry 125 Ramp 113

Cinecittà 124 District) 94 Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Range 160 INDEX Gott’s Roadside (St Citizen’s Band 96 Store Cafe 125 Real Food 70 Helena) 231 City View 126 Masala Dosa 210 Red Grape (Sonoma) Great Eastern Restaurant Maverick 160 236-7 AT E Codmother 65 126 Coffee to the People 188 Mijita 94, 269 Rich Table 189

Greens 70 I Millennium 96 Ristorante Ideale 125 NG Coi 125 Grove 142 Commonwealth 160 Mission Cheese 155 Roam Artisan Burger 67, 70 Cotogna 89, 92 Mission Chinese 160 Roli Roti 28 Craftsman & Wolves 155 H Mission Pie 159 Rosamunde Sausage Halu 207 Grill 186 Cream (Berkeley) 219 Mitchell’s Ice Cream 158 Hog Island Oyster Rose’s Café 71 Créme Bruleé Cart 28 Mixt Greens 89 Company 94 Rotunda 97 Crown & Crumpet 142 Mocca on Maiden Lane 97 House of Nanking 126 Molinari 124 Humphry Slocombe 158 Mollie Stone’s Market 177 D S Mr & Mrs Sai Jai Thai 95 Dinosaurs 177 I Miscellaneous 158 Saigon Sandwich Shop 96 Dottie’s True Blue Café Ichi Sushi 159 Mr Pollo 160 96 Sam’s Anchor Cafe Il Cane Rosso 94 Muir Woods Trading (Tiburon) 225 In-N-Out Burger 65 Company (Muir Woods) San Tung 211 221 E Sapporo-Ya 143 Eagle Cafe 67 Muracci’s Curry 93 J Scoma’s 67 El Dorado Kitchen Jai Yun 127 Shalimar 95-6 (Sonoma) 238 N Jardinière 189 Slanted Door 94 El Sur 188 Namu Gaji 159 Johnny Foley’s 101 Smitten Ice Cream 192 El Techo di Lolinda 160 Nan King Road Bistro 211 Judy’s Cafe 70 Sonoma Market (Sonoma) Emporio Rulli 97 Nijiya Supermarket 142 236 Escape from New York Juice Bar Collective (Berkeley) 219 Noe Valley Bakery 177 Sophie’s Crepes 142 Pizza 186 Jumpin’ Java 176 Nojo 189 Spices 207 Nopalito 211 Spruce 210 F St Helena Farmers Market K Farmerbrown 93 O (St Helena) 231 Kabuto 207 Starbelly 176 farm:table 95 Off the Grid 67, 188 Kara’s Cupcakes 70 State Bird Provisions 142 Fig Cafe & Winebar (Glen Old Jerusalem 158 Ellen) 236 Katana-Ya 95 Sunrise Deli 186 Kitchenette 166 Osterio Stellina (Point Fish (Sausalito) 225 Reyes) 234 Sushi Ran (Sausalito) 225 Kokkari 92 Fisherman’s Wharf Crab Out the Door 143 Swan Oyster Depot 139 Stands 65 Outerlands 211 Sweet Woodruff 93 Fleur de Lys 93 L Oxbow Public Market Swensen’s 139 Forbes Island 67 La Méditerranée 176 (Napa) 231 Foreign Cinema 160-1 La Mer Cebicheria 94 T Frances 177 La Note (Berkeley) 219 P Tacolicious 160 Fremont Diner (Sonoma) La Palma Mexicatessen Pagolac 95 Tanguito 65 236 161 Pancho Villa 155, 158 Taqueria 177 French Laundry (Yountville) La Taqueria 155, 157 232 Park Tavern 126 Tartine 159 L’Ardoise 176 Pat’s Cafe 65 Tataki (Noe Valley) 177 Lefty O’Doul’s 101 Pizzeria Delfina (The Tataki (Pacific Heights) G Leopold’s 139 Mission) 159 142-3 Galette 88 92 Liberty Cafe 171 Pizzeria Delfina (Pacific Thanh Long 211 Gary Danko 67 Liguria Bakery 124 Heights) 143 Tin Vietnamese 96 Gather (Berkeley) 219 Little Chihuahua 188 Pluto’s Fresh Food 67 Tomales Bay Foods & Genki 207 Locanda 159-60 Pretty Please Bakeshop Cowgirl Creamery George’s 92 Lovejoy’s Tea Room 177 207 (Point Reyes) 234 Ghirardelli Ice Cream 67 Lucca Delicatessen 70 Prospect 98 Tommy’s Joynt 101 306 Ton Kiang Restaurant 207 Anchor Edinburgh Castle 99-100 Tony’s Coal-Fired Pizza & Company 171 Elixir 161, 12 P Slice House 125 Aub Zam Zam 192 EndUp 104-5 Pelican Inn (Muir Woods) Tropisueño 96-7 Aunt Charlie’s 100-1 221 Powerhouse 104 F U B Fizzary 162 INDEX INDEX Udupi Palace 155 Badlands 180 Four Barrel Coffee 162 Q QBar 180 Underdog 211 Bar Agricole 101, 91 Barrique 98 DR G V Beach Chalet 212, 209 R

I Gold Dust Lounge 71 NK Vik’s Chaat Corner Beretta 163 Ramp 166

I (Berkeley) 219 Biergarten 192 Réveille 130 NG & N & NG Bigfoot Lodge 143 H Rickhouse 98 Harlot 102-3 W Bitter End 212 Rickshaw Stop 100 Harry’s Bar 144 Ritual Coffee Roasters I Warming Hut 71 Bix 98 GHTL Hi-Lo Club 143 (Hayes Valley) 192 Wayfare Tavern 92 Blackbird 177 HiTops 180 Ritual Coffee Roasters Wine Spectator Greystone Bloodhound 101 Hole in the Wall 104 (The Mission) 161-2 I

FE Restaurant (St Helena) Blue Bottle Coffee Hollow 212 232 Company 193 RN74 101 Homestead 162 Wing Lee 207 Borderlands 163 Rock Bar 162 Hôtel Biron 193 Ruby Skye 100 Wise Sons Jewish Bourbon & Branch 99 House of Shields 103 Rye 100 Delicatessen 158 Brazen Head 71 Woodhouse Fish Co 143 Buddha Lounge 130 Buena Vista Cafe 71, 69 I S Y Burritt Room 99 Irish Bank 99 Saloon 130 Yuet Lee 126 Bus Stop 72 Samovar Tea Lounge 180 Yum Yum Fish 210-11 Butter 103 J Sightglass Coffee 103 Johnny Foley’s 101 Smuggler’s Cove 193 Social 212-13 Z C John’s Grill 99 Social Study 144 Z & Y 126 Cafe, the 180 Jupiter (Berkeley) 219 Specs Museum Cafe 127 Za 139 Cafe Flore 177 St Vincent Tavern 163 Zarzuela 139 Caffe Strada (Berkeley) L Stud 104 Zazu Restaurant & Farm 219 Latin American Club 163 Sugar Cafe 100 (Santa Rosa) 238 Caffe Trieste 127 Le Colonial 100-1 Sutton Cellars 166 Zero Zero 96 California Wine Lefty O’Doul’s 101 Zuni Cafe 189 Merchant 71 Lexington Club 162 Candybar 193 Li Po 130 T Cantina 98 Lightning Tavern 71 Taverna Aventine 98 DRINKING & 6 NIGHTLIFE Cat Club 102 Lone Star Saloon 104 Terroir Natural Wine Cellar 100 Lookout 180 Merchant 101 15 Romolo 127, 130 Cinch 144 Lush Lounge 100 The Cafe 180 20 Spot 162 City Beer Store & Tasting Thee Parkside 153 83 Proof 103 Room 103 Toad Hall 180-1 111 Minna 102 M Clock Bar 99 Tommy’s Joynt 101 440 Castro 177, 180 Madrone Art Bar 192-3 Club OMG 103 Martuni’s 193 Tommy’s Mexican 540 Club 212 Restaurant 211 Comstock Saloon 127 MatrixFillmore 72 1015 Folsom 104 143 1300 on Fillmore 144 Midnight Sun 181 144 D Mix 180 Toronado 189, 192, 196 Dada 104 Moby Dick 180 A Tosca Cafe 127 Dig 166 Monarch 103 Alembic 192 Trad’r Sam 212 DNA Lounge 103 Monk’s Kettle 162 Amélie 143 Trick Dog 161 Doc’s Clock 163 Trouble Coffee 212 Dosa 144 N Truck 163 Noc Noc 192 Sights 000 Tunnel Top 99 Map Pages 000 E Twin Peaks Tavern 180 Photo Pages 000 Eagle Tavern 104 O Two Sisters Bar & Books Edge 180 Otis Lounge 99 193 307

Chapel, the 166 7 SHOPPING U Clay Theater 145 N 101 Music 131 Uva Enoteca 192 Club Deluxe 194 Neck of the Woods 213 Cobb’s Comedy Club New People Cinema 145 V 131 A Velo Rouge Café 212 O Accident & Artifact 170

Adobe Books & Backroom INDEX Vesuvio 130, Oberlin Dance Collective 18 D Gallery 170 Vinyl Coffee & Wine Bar (ODC) 163 Double Dutch 167 Aggregate Supply 170 193

Alemany Farmers Market 171 ENTERTA E P Alfio 181 W El Rio 167 Pacific Film Archive Alice & Olivia 147 (Berkeley) 219 Waterbar 102 Elbo Room 167 Al’s Attire 131 Pandora Karaoke 106 Wellingtons Wine Bar Ambiance 182 I NMENT (Sausalito) 225 Cinema 106 Pier 23 72 Amoeba Music 194-5 Whiskey Thieves 100 Encore Karaoke Lounge Plough & Stars 213 Aquarius Records 169 Wild Side West 171 145 Punch Line 106 Aria 131 ATYS 73-4 Y F R Yield 166 Fillmore Auditorium 144 Red Devil Lounge 144-5 B Freight & Salvage Revolution Cafe 167 Barneys 109 Z Coffeehouse Rite Spot Cafe 168 Benefit 147 (Berkeley) 219 Zeitgeist 161 Roccapulco Supper Club 169 Betabrand 169 Roxie Cinema 163 Black & Blue Tattoo 171 G Books Inc 181 3 ENTERTAINMENT Great American Music S Bound Together Anarchist Hall 106 San Francisco Ballet 105 Book Collective 195 A San Francisco Mime Braindrops Body Art 198 Alonzo King’s Lines Ballet H Troupe 34 Branch 112 108 Hemlock Tavern 106 San Francisco Opera Britex Fabrics 109 AMC Loews 16 Hotel Utah Saloon 108 105, 33 Brooklyn Circus 147 108 San Francisco Symphony Buyer’s Best Friend American Conservatory 105 Mercato 131 Theater (ACT) 105-6 I SF Lesbian Gay Bisexual Amnesia 167 Independent, the 194, 197 Transgender C AsiaSF 107 Intersection for the Arts Community Center 194 Castro Farmers Market 28 107-8 SFJAZZ Center 13, 194 Chinatown Kite Shop 132 Sheba Piano Lounge 145 B Chloe Rose 73 Slim’s 107 Balboa Theatre 213 J City Discount 146 Smuin Ballet 108 BATS Improv 72 Jazz Heritage Center 145 City Lights 131, , Starlight Room 106 262 129 Beach Blanket Babylon 130 Joe Goode Performance Clarion Music Center 132 Group 108 SUB-Mission 167-8 Berkeley Repertory Theatre Clary Sage Organics 147 (Berkeley) 219 Sundance Kabuki Cinema 145 Cliff’s Variety 181 Bimbo’s 365 Club 130-1 K Community Thrift 169 Biscuits & Blues 106 Kunst Stoff 33 T Cris 146 Booksmith 194 The Chapel 166 Crossroads 148 Boom Boom Room 144 The Independent 194, 197 Bottom of the Hill 168 L Brainwash 108 Little Baobab 167 D V Brava Theater 167 Lou’s Fish Shack 72 De La Sole 181 Verdi Club 168 Dema 170 Dog-Eared Books 171 C M W Double Punch 132 Cafe Cocomo 168 Magic Theater 72 Warfield 107 Dress 74 Cafe du Nord/Swedish Make-Out Room 168 DSW 109 American Hall 181 Marsh 167 Café Royale 106 Mezzanine 107 Y Cal Performances Mighty 168 Yerba Buena Center for the E (Berkeley) 220 Mint 194 Arts (YBCA) 107, 108 elizabethW 72-3 Castro Theatre 181, 179 Mission Bowling Club 168 Yoshi’s 144 Embarcadero Center 111 308

Red Blossom Tea SPORTS & F K Company 132 2 ACTIVITIES Far East Flea Market 132 Katsura Garden 148 Reliquary 198 18 Reasons 28 Fatted Calf 199 Kayo Books 111 Revolver 198 Favor 146 Kenneth Wingard 182 Rock Posters & Collectibles Ferry Plaza Farmers Kinokuniya Books & 131-2 A Adventure Cat 74 INDEX INDEX Market 28 Stationery 147 Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant Kohshi 148 110 S 171, 165 San Francisco Railway AT&T Park 113-14 SPORTS & ACT & SPORTS Flight 001 198, 196 L Museum Shop 112 Fog City News 111 Avenue Cyclery 199 Le Sanctuaire 110 Sanko Cooking Supply Foggy Notion 214 Loehmann’s 110 147 Loved to Death 195 SCRAP (Scroungers’ B G Center for Re-Useable Blazing Saddles 74 Gangs of San Francisco 199 Art Parts) 170 Blue & Gold Fleet 75 M Seasons 73

I General Bead 113 V MAC 198-9 Seedstore 214 I General Store 213 T C

I Macy’s 109 SFMOMA Museum Store

ES Gimme Shoes 199 Madame S & Mr S Leather 112 Chinatown Alleyway Tours Global Exchange Fair Trade 295 Craft Center 182 112 SFO Snowboarding & FTC Magazine 112 Skateboarding 195 Chinatown Heritage Golden Gate Fortune Walking Tours 125 Cookie Company 132 Marc by Marc Jacobs 147 Soko Hardware 148 Circus Center Trapeze Margaret O’Leary (Pacific Sports Basement 74 Good Vibrations 170 42 Heights) 147 Studio 145-6 Goorin Brothers Hats 195 City Kayak 114 Gravel & Gold 169 Margaret O’Leary (Union Sui Generis 181 Square) 109 Green Apple Books 213 Sur La Table 111 Metreon 113 Green Arcade 199 D Mingle 73, 69 Dance Mission 172 Gump’s 109 T Mission Skateboards 170 Dr Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Gypsy Rosalie’s 112 Tantrum 195 Mollusk 213 Resort (Calistoga) TCHO Chocolate 73 Molte Cose 146 231 Toss Designs 74 H My Roommate’s Closet Triple Aught Design 166 H&M 110 73 E Heart of the City Farmers Embarcadero YMCA 114 Market 28 U Heath Ceramics 111 N Uko 73 Human Rights Campaign Nancy Boy 198 F Under One Roof 110 Action Center & Store Needles & Pens 169 Fire Engine Tours 295 Unionmade 181 181-2 Nest 147 Flycasting Club 215 New People 146-7 Uniqlo 109 Upper Playground 198 I Nooworks 169 Urban Bazaar 214 G Icebreaker 110 Urban Mercantile 198 Golden Gate JOAD 214 Ichiban Kan 148 O Golden Gate Municipal Golf Isda & Co Outlet 113 Omnivore 182 Course 215 Isotope 199 Original Levi’s Store 109 V Golden Gate Park Bike & Isso 182 Velvet Da Vinci 146 Skate 214 Voyager 170 P Green Tortoise 295 J Park Life 213 Jack’s 74 Past Perfect 73 W H Japan Center 146 Paxton Gate 170-1 Wasteland 195 Harding Park Municipal Japonesque 111 Picnic 146 Westfield San Francisco Golf Course 215 Jeremy’s 112 Centre 110 House of Air 76 Piedmont Boutique 195, 11 Worn Out West 182 Johnson Leathers 146 PlumpJack Wines 73 Jonathan Adler 148 I X R Indian Springs Spa Xapno 195 (Calistoga) 231 Sights 000 Rabat 182 Map Pages 000 Rare Device 198 Photo Pages 000 Recchiuti Chocolates Z K 110-11 Zinc Details 148, 38 Kabuki Springs & Spa 148 309

L Y H O La Cocina 28 Yerba Buena Center Ice Harbor Court Hotel 248 Orchard Garden Hotel Lavender Hill Spa Skating & Bowling Hayes Valley Inn 251 248 (Calistoga) 231 114 HI San Francisco City Yoga Tree 172 Lawn Bowling Club 214 Center 243 P

Lincoln Park Golf Course HI San Francisco INDEX Pacific Tradewinds Hostel 215 Downtown 243 248 Lindy in the Park 214 4 SLEEPING HI San Francisco Palace Hotel 246 24 Henry 251 Fisherman’s Wharf 242 Parker Guest House SLEEP 251 M Hotel Abri 244 Parsonage 252 Makeshift Society 199 A Hotel Beresford 246 I Adelaide Hostel 243 Petite Auberge 249 NG Mission Cultural Center for Hotel Bohème 248 Latino Arts 171-2 Americania Hotel 247 Hotel California 245 Phoenix Hotel 245 Andaz Napa (Napa) 233 Hotel Carlton 245 Andrews Hotel 245 O Hotel del Sol 242 Q Argonaut Hotel 243 Oceanic Society Hotel des Arts 246 Queen Anne Hotel 249 Expeditions 74 Hotel Diva 244 B Hotel Drisco 250 R Beck’s Motor Lodge 251 P Hotel Kabuki 249 Red Victorian Bed, Planet Granite 76 Beltane Ranch (Glen Ellen) Hotel Monaco 243-4 Breakfast & Art 251 Potrero del Sol/La Raza 238 Hotel Palomar 246 Skatepark 172 Beresford Arms Hotel Hotel Rex 249 S Mission Mural 245 Hotel Tomo 249 San Remo Hotel 248 Tours 294 Best Western Carriage Hotel Triton 244 Inn 247 Seal Rock Inn 252 Presidio Golf Course 76 Hotel Union Square 245 Best Western Sonoma Serrano Hotel 244 Public Library City Guides Hotel Vertigo 250 295 Valley Inn (Sonoma) Sir Francis Drake Hotel Hotel Vitale 247 238 247 Hotel Zetta 244 Sleep Over Sauce 252 R Huntington Hotel 250 Red & White Fleet 74-5 C Sonoma Hotel (Sonoma) 238 Ride the Ducks 75-6 Calistoga Inn (Calistoga) 233 I Steinhart Hotel & Cartwright Hotel 249-50 Indian Springs Resort Apartments 249 S Chablis Inn (Napa) 233 (Calistoga) 233 Stratford Hotel 246 San Francisco Center for Chancellor Hotel 245 Inn at the Presidio 243 SW Hotel 248 the Book 172 Chateau Tivoli 252 Inn at Union Square 246 San Francisco Croquet Coventry Motor Inn 242 Inn on Castro 251 T Club 215 Inn San Francisco 250-1 San Francisco Disc Golf 215 Taj Campton Place 246 San Francisco Model Yacht E Tuscan Inn 242 Club 215 Eurospa & Inn (Calistoga) K Kensington Park Hotel 247 San Fran Cyclo 214 233 U Sea Foraging Adventures USA Hostels 243 294-5 F M SF Winery Cruise 75 Mandarin Oriental 246 W Spa Solage (Calistoga) 231 250 Marina Inn 242 W Hotel 248 Spinnaker Sailing 114 Fitzgerald Hotel 243 Marina Motel 242-3 Warwick San Francisco 245 Intercontinental 250 T G Washington Square Inn Metro Hotel 251 Tree Frog Treks 295 Gaige House Inn (Glen 249 Mosser Hotel 247 Ellen) 238 Westin St Francis Hotel Mystic Hotel 244 W Galleria Park 244 246-7 Wine Country Cycles Golden Gate Hotel 250 Wharf Inn 242 (Sonoma) 238 Good Hotel 247 N White Swan Inn 249 Workshop 199 Grant Plaza 248 Nob Hill Hotel 250 Willows Inn 251 298

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OUR READERS John A Vlahides Many thanks to the travelers who used the I owe great thanks to my commissioning edi- tor Suki Gear and co-author Alison Bing, who last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, encouraged me to accept this assignment. I’m useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anna so happy they did. In San Francisco, I’m grate- Flore, Gary Hays & Daniel Pförtsch ful to Karl Soehnlein, Kevin Clarke, Christine Murray and Gabriel Lasa for help researching; Adam Young for distracting me; and barista AUTHOR THANKS Salvador Flores for the many cups of coffee. Alison Bing Most importantly I’m grateful to you, dear Heartfelt thanks to Lonely Planet guidebook reader, for helping me see San Francisco mastermind Suki Gear, managing editor Sasha through your eyes. Thanks for letting me be Baskett and adventurer extraordinaire John your guide. Vlahides; to intrepid research companions Sahai Burrowes, Haemin Cho, Lisa Park, Yosh Han, Rebecca Bing, Tony Cockrell and ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Akua Parker; but above all to Marco Flavio Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Marinucci, who made a Muni bus ride into the Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated trip of a lifetime. Alison dedicates this book to World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Clas- Bluford Moor, writer and rescuer of lost toys sification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sci- on Tenderloin sidewalks. He loved San Fran- ences, 11, 1633-44. cisco, and in its infinite wisdom, the city loved him right back. Illustration pp54-5 by Michael Weldon.

Sara Benson Cover photograph: Powell-Hyde cable car with Thanks to Suki Gear, Sasha Baskett, Alison Alcatraz in the distance, San Francisco, CA, Lyall and everyone else at LP for making this Ron Niebrugge/Alamy. book happen. I’m grateful to the many Bay Area residents who generously shared their lo- cal expertise. Big thanks to friends and family too, especially the Picketts, Alex Leviton, Beth Kohn and Evan Baxter. 299

THIS BOOK Commissioning Editor Assisting Editors Suki Gear Judith Bamber, This 9th edition of Lonely Christopher Pitts Planet’s San Francisco Coordinating Editor Elizabeth Jones Cover Research guidebook was researched Naomi Parker and written by Alison Bing Senior Cartographer BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND and John A Vlahides. Sara Alison Lyall Internal Image Research Kylie McLaughlin Benson wrote the Day Trips Coordinating Layout from San Francisco chapter. Designer Frank Deim Thanks to Nicholas The previous two editions Colicchia, Ryan Evans, were written by Alison and Managing Editors Larissa Frost, Genesys India, John. This guidebook was Sasha Baskett, Brigitte Jouve India, Wayne Murphy, commissioned in Lonely Ellemor Trent Paton, Martine Power, Planet’s Oakland office and Managing Layout Designer Kerrianne Southway, Lyahna produced by the following: Chris Girdler Spencer, Gerard Walker ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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