In the
W 100% 2016 issue H 115% March
Issue number 379 CONTENTS
35 100 0 0 52 64 0 40 100 16 20
100 50 0 32 0
Pearls 62 Lustrous pearls: Forever young
50 64 Show-stoppers 0 0 50 66 Mikimoto expands foothold in Hong Kong
Gemstones
100 68 Jeweller highlights brilliance and 0 50 beauty of emeralds 0 46 70 Belmont sees positive prospects in Asia
Diamonds 72 Building a strong diamond industry in China Greater China 75 WFDB chief calls on diamantaires to 20 Macau’s jewellery market remains reach out to millennial consumers
Mayan Hansen resilient 77 Stellar sets Baoulé diamond sale 24 Chinese jeweller sees robust in March demand for bespoke pieces 78 Lucara reports steady growth in 2015
Jewellery 26 HK jeweller explores opportunities in the Chinese market 28 HK manufacturer eyes younger, aspirational consumer market 32 Italian jeweller presents couture collections in HK
Conversations 34 French synthetic stone specialist News gears up for strong growth 8 Micromosaic masterpieces by Sicis 10 JNA Awards opens for entries Design 12 Social media, creativity to inspire 36 Anita So melds classic and jewellery design trends modern designs 38 Creative talents show brilliance JNA Style File at JMA International Jewelry Design 14 Fresh and edgy Competition 16 Sculptural silhouettes 18 Pure geometry Technology 42 Laser machinery solutions 44 SSEF expands global reach of Next issue diamond inspection machine 45 Portable diamond imaging device On the Cover In our April 2016 issue, JNA turns the spotlight on tanzanite, an exotic Trade Fairs The Quetzal necklace by Sicis. gemstone that has been capturing 46 Fine designs, rare gemstones at Inspired by the colourful bird known the attention of the world’s leading JGF Europe for its splendid plumage, this stunning gemstone dealers and jewellery 52 Jewellery & watch trends micromosaic necklace is in 18-karat houses. 58 IJS March to welcome thousands gold, and embellished with 15.11 of buyers carats of diamonds and 10.15 carats * All figures in this publication are in US 59 Mumbai fairs off to a positive start of tanzanite. To know more about Sicis, dollars unless otherwise stated. 61 Shenzhen Fair returns in April turn to page 8.
4 ︱March 2016
Published by UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Telephone: (852) 2827 6211 Fax: (852) 3749 7348 www.jewellerynewsasia.com
Founder and Director – Publishing Group Letitia CHOW Mei Lai Group Publisher Dennis Li Associate Publisher Alex Leung EDITORIAL Editor Marie Feliciano Assistant Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo Staff Writers Christie Dang, Olivia Quiniquini, Sze Man Young, Dodo To (Shenzhen)
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praezise_88x246_GB.indd 1 25.01.16 14:16
NEWS
Micromosaic masterpieces by Sicis icis, a name long associated with paintings of Japanese artist Ito Jakuchu, the decorative arts and interior entitled “Roosters.” The mason’s artists Sdesign, recently unveiled two recreated in micromosaic every colour and exceptional creations – the Quetzal nuance of the plumage with extreme necklace and the Red Rooster watch. precision that highlights the strong and As its name implies, the Quetzal leading aspects of the animal, the necklace was inspired by the colourful company said. bird known for its splendid plumage: The watch has a Swiss Made Emerald green, blue and scarlet red automatic movement and a stainless colours are scattered through its body steel case. The dial is inlaid with white and the tail is immediately recognisable gold and a black diamond is placed on by its willowy green feathers, often more the crown. than a metre long. Meanwhile, Sicis announced that it has The designers of the maison spent opened its first UK showroom in London, more than 100 hours of micromosaic to which is presenting all the bestsellers of the create a jewel that embodies the spirit of the Maison, including its cutting-edge collections. quetzal. The necklace is in 18-karat gold, and The space features a constellation of
embellished with 15.11 carats of diamonds The Red Rooster mosaic of many materials including marble, and 10.15 carats of tanzanite. watch by Sicis silver and gold. The showroom also has a Another fine piece is the Red Rooster dedicated space for Sicis’ exclusive jewels watch, which was inspired by one of the most famous and watches in micromosaic. JNA
Fine jewellery for men uxury jewellery brand Qeelin is Naughty tapping the men’s jewellery market Bo Bo L with its latest collections. cufflinks One of Qeelin’s standout lines is Roobot, which was inspired by white gold creative director Dennis Chan’s with white assortment of vintage toys. “I have and black diamonds and turned this classic favourite rubies. Both of these little treasures into a collection that is rich are part of a limited-edition collection. with nostalgia and revives Qeelin also offers an assortment of cufflinks. The memories like only Naughty Bo Bo cufflinks are pavé-set with black childhood toys can,” diamonds. The cufflinks have star-shaped diamond Chan said. eyes and ruby ear studs – all set in 18-karat white Another Qeelin gold. Small Panda cufflinks provide a charming touch collection that in 18-karat white gold with full pavé diamonds. JNA provides creative gifts for men is the eye-catching Bo Bo the Bear Xi Xi cufflinks Collection. This line features Kung Fu Bo Bo pendant the brand’s signature panda in a variety of guises such as Super Bo Bo presented as an 18-karat white gold pendant with white and black diamonds, rubies, and yellow and blue sapphires. For the sophisticated athlete, there’s a Kung Fu Bo Bo pendant in 18-karat
8 ︱March 2016
NEWS
JNA Awards opens for entries
he online submission process for the fifth edition T of the JNA Awards has begun. The judging criteria and the conditions of entry have been finalised and may be viewed at JNAawards.com. The JNA Awards, organised by JNA, has been regarded as one of the jewellery and gemstone industry’s highest honours, recognising enterprises and individuals that have demonstrated JNA Awards partners join hands in welcoming the fifth edition of one of the industry’s excellence, leadership, innovation most prestigious honours. From left: Ira Tsirlina, chief marketing officer of the Israel and have made positive Diamond Institute; Naresh Surana, director of Diarough Hong Kong; Rita Maltez, director of Rio Tinto Diamonds’ Greater China Representative Office; Wolfram Diener, senior contributions to their businesses vice president of UBM Asia; Letitia Chow, founder of JNA and director of Business and communities, with a focus on Development – Jewellery Group at UBM Asia; Kent Wong, managing director of Chow Tai achievements made in Asia. Fook Jewellery Group Ltd; Caroline Yuan, vice president of Shanghai Diamond Exchange; “As organiser of the JNA and Ye Xuquan, CEO of Guangdong Land Holdings Ltd Awards, we find it very promising to see steady growth in quality entries “In terms of categories, we become much more difficult. A over the past four years. Under our have expanded the geographical constant refinement of the judging commitment to uphold excellence region of two categories to criteria is crucial in maintaining the and best practices, we constantly include Greater China and relevance and rigour of the awards; review and enhance the entry Korea. Furthermore, we have helping the judges to better process to improve the experience consolidated the categories under assess, compare and select the of both the entrants and our judges, manufacturing, which are judged best entries. I am looking forward without compromising a fair, robust against a similar set of criteria,” to seeing an even wider range of and efficient selection process. said Letitia Chow, founder of JNA, high-quality applications this year,” director of Business Development said James Courage, a member – Jewellery Group at UBM Asia, of the JNA Awards judging panel and chair of the JNA Awards since its inception in 2012 and judging panel. former chief executive of Platinum Albert Cheng, advisor to the Guild International. World Gold Council, Far East (WGC) The JNA Awards 2016 is and former managing director of supported by Headline Partners WGC – Far East, commented, “I Rio Tinto Diamonds and Chow am honoured to be a part of the Tai Fook, together with Diarough judging panel for five consecutive Group, the Israel Diamond years. It is very encouraging to Institute Group of Companies, see the JNA Awards continuously Shanghai Diamond Exchange and making improvements on the criteria Guangdong Land Holdings Ltd and entry procedure to make the serving as Honoured Partners. judging process more efficient and The period for the submission more reflective of current industry of entries runs from March through Letitia Chow, founder of JNA, director of aspirations.” April 30, 2016. To register online Business Development – Jewellery Group “With the continued increase and review the judging criteria at UBM Asia, and chair of the JNA Awards in the number of high-quality and rules of entry, log on to judging panel entries, the judging process has JNAawards.com. JNA
10 ︱March 2016
NEWS
Social media, creativity to inspire jewellery design trends
ocial media trends and According to keynote speaker self-expression will play Shimul Mehta Vyas, today’s Sa significant role in future jewellery designs are mostly jewellery design trends, according inspired by current trends such as to speakers at Design Inspirations health and fitness, migration and – a two-day jewellery design social media. forecasting seminar organised For her part, Paola De Luca by the Gem & Jewellery Export of The Futurist Ltd, spoke about Promotion Council (GJEPC). how jewellery is created through
The seminar, held on February designing, strategising, developing Keynote speaker Shimul Mehta Vyas with 9 to 10, was attended by collections, merchandising and GJEPC Chairman Praveenshankar Pandya international and local experts who trend forecasting. During her shared their insights on trends presentation, De Luca talked such as platinum and the need to across India, Europe and the US. about the designer’s role in create customised collections to determining what consumers want, meet the needs of online buyers. searching for inspirations and Apart from Vyas and De Luca, translating design concepts into industry experts such as Farah new collections. She stressed that Ali Khan, Ishu Datwani, Gautam designing is not about “developing Banerjee, Pallavi Foley, Vaishali products” but about “creating Banerjee, Reena Ahluwalia, Revathi collections” and added that every Kant, Sachin Jain, Mithun Sacheti, collection must have its own visual Laksh Pahuja, Kapil Hetamsaria, language. Manreet Deol and Anil Bharwani Other speakers also talked shared their insights on future Paola de Luca of The Futurist Ltd about the use of new materials jewellery trends. JNA
Celebrities sparkle in Forevermark diamonds at 22nd SAG Awards elebrities wearing Mara, for her part, wore an Rancic, meanwhile, dazzled in a Forevermark diamonds edgy Forevermark diamond ear pair of fancy yellow diamond drop Cadded sparkle to cuff on one ear and a single earrings and diamond eternity bands. the 22nd Annual Screen diamond stud on the other. Forevermark diamonds are available Actors Guild Awards She completed the look in 36 markets and over 1,600 retail in Los Angeles. with layered diamond doors, the company said. JNA Saoirse Ronan, eternity bands and delicate Kate Mara, Laura stackable diamond Saoirse Ronan Prepon and Giuliana bangles. Rancic showcased Prepon was likewise unique diamond seen with stacked statement pieces during diamond bangles, their red carpet walk. paired with a striking Ronan donned a Forevermark necklace. pair of Forevermark diamond statement earrings Forevermark and kept the rest of her pear-shaped duet cuff jewellery minimal, allowing her in 18-karat rose gold by winged diamond studs to shine. Jade Trau
12 ︱March 2016
JNA STYLE FILE
1 Freshand edgy na Locking is presenting an easy-to- wear collection embellished with lace, A golden sequins and crystal detailing with silhouettes that can be worn from day 2 to night when combined with skirts, jackets or pants. Create an evening-ready look at the end of the day with these outstanding jewellery pieces by Stefan Hafner, Mousson Atelier, Bulgari and Jewellery Theatre.
14 ︱March 2016 JNA STYLE FILE
1. Spring Venice earrings in 18-karat white gold with a 9.72-carat blue tourmaline and a 13.90-carat spinel, and embellished with coloured 3 diamonds and sapphires by Jewellery Theatre 2. Moon Lace ring in 18-karat white gold with a 23.79-carat moonstone, coloured diamonds and fancy sapphires by Jewellery Theatre 3. Bulgari High Jewellery Collection Serpenti watch 4 4. Gold ring with fancy sapphires, rubies and enamel from Mousson Atelier’s Botanic Collection 5. The Promise ring by Stefan Hafner is a masterpiece available in various versions but always featuring a heart- shaped central stone. This collection embodies one of Stefan Hafner’s principles, which defines its brand identity: The reinterpretation of a 5 classic design with a touch of originality Photo credit: Ana Locking Spring/Summer 2016 runway photos from Image.net by Getty Images. The collections were unveiled at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid.
︱March 2016 15 JNA STYLE FILE
silhouettes
Sculpturalhe unbroken silhouette with a modern twist T makes an unbeatable fashion statement regardless of the season or the 1 occasion. Complete the look with these stunning jewellery pieces by Mikimoto, Autore, Italian Design Srl and De Simone Fratelli Srl. Maya Hansen
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16 ︱March 2016 JNA STYLE FILE
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1. Aka coral and diamond bracelet by De Simone Fratelli Srl. The bracelet is part of the Italian coral specialist’s Icon Collection 2. Necklace in 18-karat white gold set with 10.50mm-15mm golden South Sea pearls and diamonds by Mikimoto 3. Autore Rose Cut pendant and earrings with South Sea pearl centre gems. For the Rose Cut Collection, Autore Design Director Jane Autore drew her inspiration from the desire to ‘create a contemporary collection, which has a strong classic presence’ and ‘a design concept that intertwines the brilliance and skill of the past with the present’ 4. Coloured gemstone necklace and earrings by Italian Design Srl. These handcrafted pieces, with their delicate ribbons and gold accents resembling the flowing skirt of a billowy princess gown, allude to the classic fairy tale, Snow White Photo credit: Mayan Hansen, Juanjo Oliva, Roberto Torretta and Esther Noriega Spring/Summer 2016 runway photos from Image.net by Getty Images. The collections were unveiled at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid.
︱March 2016 17 JNA STYLE FILE
2 1
geometry
esigner Amaya Arzuaga excites with her elegantly constructed dresses that are not only stylish and Dfeminine but above all wearable. Accented with circular volumes and pleated bodices that remind one of skyscrapers Pureand futuristic structures, the collection is sure to win over the fashion designer crowd. For an ultra-chic look, pair Arzuaga’s dresses with these jewellery pieces by Carla Amorim, Carrera y Carrera, Chimento, Chopard, Damiani and Nanis Jewels.
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18 ︱March 2016 JNA STYLE FILE
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1. Cuff bracelets by Carla Amorim 2. Prisma pendant by Carrera y Carrera 3. Supreme Collection by Chimento. The pieces feature an arch-shaped profile, which results in an impressive display of light and reflection. Thanks to the flexible section of the individual elements, the jewellery pieces are comfortable to wear and move with the body. The bracelets are elasticised, ensuring continuity in their lines, according to Chimento 4. Transformista Collection by Nanis Jewels. With just a twist, these innovative creations are transformed into three-dimensional beauties 5. Eden bracelet in pink gold and full pavé of brown diamonds by Damiani. Elegant and seductive, the collection aspires to the design of the Damiani bracelet of the same name, winner of the Diamond International Award. A masterpiece of the goldsmith’s art, the collection features the snake, which has always seduced man’s imagination and unleashes an evocative force. The collection is in two versions – one combines black ceramic with pink gold and the other unites the various colours of white, burnished and pink gold with matching diamonds, in perfect Damiani style 6. The models in Chopard’s Imperiale Collection are intended for modern- day empresses who are confident and self-assured. Sparkling on an 18-karat white or rose gold chain, a facetted 48-carat amethyst nestles in a gold cage with arabesque motifs partially or entirely set with diamonds, while an 18-karat rose gold sautoir necklace is adorned with alternating diamond-set arabesques and facetted amethysts 7. Gold ring with a 12.60-carat citrine centre stone embellished with rubies from Mousson Atelier’s Geometry Collection Photo credit: Amaya Arzuaga Spring/Summer 2016 runway photos from Image.net by Getty Images. The collections were unveiled at Mercedes- Benz Fashion Week Madrid
︱March 2016 19 GREATER CHINA
Tourists flock to Macau every day, especially during festivals
jewellery market remains resilient
Some years ago, I was invited to Macau to scout a place Macau’sfor a new jewellery brand. After a three-day search, I returned empty-handed since there were no vacant space, for love or money, in the streets where the boutique was to be located. Last September, I was asked to do a search again despite the economic gloom pervading Macau – the worst it suffered since 2010. What I saw during my search impressed me, and I have reasons to be optimistic about Macau’s jewellery industry.
By Barry Lau
acau, with a population of less than 650,000 people, generates a significant amount of revenues from its gambling and tourism Mindustries but the jewellery industry is likewise considered a thriving sector in the city. There are three types of jewellery retailers in Macau. High-end international brands and some well-known Hong Kong brands operate in malls owned by five-star hotels, and in casinos, targeting well-off consumers. Due to China’s anti-corruption campaign, the number of gamblers visiting Macau dropped drastically in the last two years, but owing to the efficient management of malls, business remains brisk. Hotels have also done their part to attract more tourists. All in all, these retailers have not been severely impacted by external factors. Then there are jewellers operating on Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro (or San Ma Lo as the avenue is known to local Cantonese speakers), which High-end boutiques located in five-star leads to major attractions like St. Dominic’s Church, Holy House of Mercy hotels and casinos still prosper and Ruins of St. Paul’s.
20 ︱March 2016
GREATER CHINA
‘Jewellery avenue’ In the industry’s heyday, the avenue was lined with numerous jewellery stores. Local Macau jewellers used to be the majority until Hong Kong and mainland brands began establishing their presence in the area in the last decade – some of the biggest brands even opened flagship stores on the avenue. Those days, however, are long gone. Sales of luxury goods suffered a huge decline in Macau, just like in Hong Kong, due to China’s crackdown on corruption. Tourists still pass by jewellery shops on the avenue every day, but those who have cash to spend are mostly gamblers, not tourists. Meanwhile, operating costs for a retailer doing business on the avenue is another hurdle: Rental fees are as high as those in Hong Kong’s Nathan Road while the wages are almost equivalent to Hong Kong’s. It’s not easy to survive under such circumstances. A jewellery store on Rua Um do Bairro Iao Hon Some shops closed down last year but the number is not alarming. A few months ago, there were some area. Connected to mainland China’s Gongbei Port, the empty shops near the Ruins of St. Paul’s but they Border Gate is a major route for travellers going between have all been leased out recently. Macau and Zhuhai City, Guangdong Province. Many Macau’s landlords are willing to reduce rental fees people working in Macau come from Guangdong, and by 20 percent if their spaces remain unleased for return to the mainland every day after work. more than a month or as much as 50 percent if the Pharmacies have blossomed in the Border Gate premises sit empty for two to three months. area, too, after Hong Kong’s crackdown on parallel My first-hand experience is that the rent for a trading, especially of baby formula. Most daily space measuring 65sqm can go down from $77,000 necessities sold in Macau, including baby formula, to about $38,500. This will certainly help brands make come from Hong Kong, and there’s currently no their debut – this is true not only for jewellery but restriction on the export of baby formula in Macau. As cosmetics and skincare brands as well. a result, the Border Gate area is thronged by parallel traders looking for “Hong Kong goods.” Old-school jewellers This thriving activity also benefited the jewellery Last but not the least, there is one other type of stores operating nearby. Granted, these stores don’t jewellery retailer that I believe can only be found in sell big-ticket, high-end jewellery pieces, but there is no Macau. Thriving near casinos, they function as both lack of demand for pure gold and jadeite, and jewellery pawnbrokers and jewellers since they not only offer items with coloured gemstone and diamond accents. loans to gamblers with the latter’s luxury items as The rental costs are reasonable, too. A shop measuring collaterals, but also sell second-hand or brand-new 56sqm fetches around $3,900 to $6,400 in rental jewellery pieces and watches. costs. Add to this the wages of four or five salespeople Apart from these various retailers, I would also and other miscellaneous expenses, the operating cost like to mention Rua Um do Bairro Iao Hon, a short, per month amounts to about $16,700 or $19,300. old street near Portas do Cerco (or the Border Gate). Now Macau is only a small city, but its jewellery Here you can find neither landmarks, five-star hotels retail market is more stable than those of Hong Kong with their luxurious malls nor any big brands. But or mainland China. Here you can find a wide variety what caught my eye were the six or seven jewellery of stores from international to local brands and chain stores that dot the street. Their storefronts and the retailers to independent boutiques. It’s not a bad place pieces they sell are both traditional but some of them for a jeweller to start a business. JNA are chain stores, each with four or five boutiques in Macau, owned by local or Hong Kong businessmen. I visited these old-school jewellers on several occasions, and each time, I found people shopping For more Greater China reports, log on to there. Some of the customers were natives of that neighbourhood, but majority came from the Border Gate jewellerynewsasia.com
22 ︱March 2016
GREATER CHINA
jeweller sees robust demand for bespoke pieces
ustom-made jewellery will enjoy a bigger share in the ChineseChinese jewellery market in 2016, with designer pieces Cgaining a following among younger consumers. According to West Zhang, a shareholder of ZOEE Jewelry, the country’s jewellery industry is set to undergo a sea change in 2016 after an economic slowdown impacted many sectors in China last year. Zhang is among three graduates from the China University of Geosciences who founded ZOEE in 2015. With a decade of jewellery retail experience under their belts, the jewellers set their sights on an emerging group of Chinese consumers who go for original designs and reliable customer service. The year will see well-established brands growing even bigger, stated Zhang, while small, independent jewellers that insist on innovative designs and premier quality will have Flower-inspired more room for expansion and development in the market. jewellery pieces “These small designer brands will thrive because they from the Floral possess their own distinct characteristics and target a Art Collection. select group of customers who are loyal to the brands they All jewellery love,” he said, adding that today’s jewellery consumers have photos by become increasingly partial to exclusive designs. ZOEE Jewelry ZOEE practices what it preaches, making product quality and customer service the two pillars of the company since it was founded. The jeweller settles for nothing less than premium craftsmanship to create one-of- a-kind jewellery pieces, Zhang stated. ZOEE likewise adopted a reliable system that allows a refund ‘Blossoming’ rings within 15 days and product replacement within 30 days. According to Zhang, the company is firm about having fixed prices for its products and offering no discounts to anyone.
Design-driven philosophy The Chinese jewellery industry is going through a refinement process since traditional brands are finding it harder to adequately meet the requirements of younger consumers, which account for a significant segment of China’s luxury goods industry, Zhang said. He also noted the importance of consumer education. “Our designs are stylish, simple and detailed. They don’t feel monotonous like those of traditional brands. Our designs are also neither outrageous nor over the top. We want our products to be practical and well-designed at the same time. This is easier said than done but we want to educate our customers and help them appreciate the value of good design,” Zhang said.
24 ︱March 2016 GREATER CHINA
‘The Cradle under the Moonlight’ opal jewellery
The company is mainly “design-driven,” he continued. “Our design team, consisting of four designers with professional qualifications, is at the core of the company. We pay attention to the tiniest details in our packaging and posters, as we do in our designs. Every detail is an embodiment of the company’s values,” said Zhang. Sourcing the finest gemstones is also one of ZOEE’s priorities. With the guidance of its team of professional appraisers, the company endeavours to obtain gemstones of the highest quality at the most competitive prices. The jeweller is focused on consumers who appreciate fine jewellery and who may already possess a number of traditional pieces but want to buy something different, Pendant from the individualistic and of the best quality, Zhang explained. Virtue Collection Combining quality gemstones with exquisite craftsmanship, ZOEE’s latest collection of handmade jewellery is inspired by floral designs. Zhang said the company earlier adopted a clicks-and-mortar approach to business. It is now operating a flagship store on JD.com, one of the largest B2C online retailers in China. Meanwhile, its atelier in Shenzhen provides face-to-face Pendant from the consultation to customers looking for bespoke jewellery. Calla Lily Collection The company is planning to launch an online consultation service where potential customers can communicate directly with the company’s designers, added Zhang. JNA
For more Greater China reports, log on to jewellerynewsasia.com
︱March 2016 25 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG
HK jeweller eyes opportunities in the Chinese market
By Karl Tang
hile China’s economic downturn may have made some jewellers more wary of entering the Chinese W market, Ben Yep, managing director of Hong Kong-based Bri-Star Jewellers Ltd, sees the slowdown as beneficial to the industry’s long-term development. In an interview with JNA, Yep shares his insights on the cultural differences between the East and the West when it comes to making jewellery purchases, and his vision for the future of the Chinese jewellery industry.
Strength in numbers According to Yep, China’s jewellery industry has long suffered from “lack of standardisation, with imitation products proliferating in the market.” A An 18-karat form of natural selection is necessary to ensure the industry’s growth, he added. gold bangle with The economic crisis, however, compelled industry stakeholders to push fancy coloured for deeper collaboration – largely inspired by their mutual desire to ensure the diamonds sector’s long-term growth, the company official said. and coloured “The global economy was sluggish in 2015 but the Chinese government gemstones. All jewellery photos reacted quickly. There was the Belt and Road Initiative, and the formation of by Bri-Star the Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank, for example,” stated Yep. “I spent a Jewellers Ltd lot of time in mainland China last year, working closely with several jewellers’ associations. As their representative, I communicated with the Chinese authorities and gained their support for the sector.” Yep serves as vice chairman of several jewellers’ associations in Guangdong Province. He said he was impressed by the dynamism and drive of China’s jewellers. “I met many young and enthusiastic jewellers on the mainland who are eager to learn and share their work experiences with their peers. I also saw a high degree of solidarity among them. Solidarity is a valuable quality in our sector, as shown by the success of Jewish and Indian jewellers – and this is something that I have personally witnessed – in the US,” noted Yep. Bri-Star, which specialises in fine diamond and coloured gemstone jewellery, has a strong foothold in the US market, which helped shield it from the potentially devastating effects of the Chinese economic recession. Looking ahead, Yep said he sees a rosy future for his Ring in 18-karat business in China, adding that building a greater presence in gold with the Chinese market is one of his priorities in 2016. fancy coloured The company has also embraced the clicks-and-mortar diamonds business model. Last September, Bri-Star opened its online and coloured retail store. gemstones
26 ︱March 2016 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG
world, Yep said. Its long-term relationship with several American retail chains also ensures the company’s financial stability, he added. Yep also attaches great importance to his cultural background and professional training. “I began as a designer and appraiser before becoming a businessman, so I’m familiar with every facet of the trade. I’m also fluent in English as well as Mandarin and Cantonese, and can communicate directly with my clients.” Yep became acquainted with some Hong Kong jewellers in a local sports club while playing and winning titles for its badminton team as a teenager. Looking for a more secure career, he took courses in jewellery design and was admitted to the Gemological Institute of America in 1984. After earning his certification, he worked for Tiffany & Co as an appraiser and designer at its New York headquarters. He left Tiffany to open his own workshop at Manhattan’s 47th Street in 1988. The company soon became a supplier Ben Yep of Bri-Star Jewellers Ltd of jewellery pieces for retail chains “Traditional jewellers don’t such as JCPenney have to give up their brick-and- and Walmart. mortar business but making an Looking to enhance investment in e-commerce is the company’s production inevitable. One has no choice capacity, Yep returned to but to take the risk since innovation Hong Kong in 2002 and set up is the only way to go,” said Yep, a factory in Shunde, Guangdong adding that 20 percent of the Province, which now operates with company’s resources is currently spent on 200 staff. its online business. As a designer, Yep sees room for Bejewelled butterfly growth for designer brands in China. Bright future brooch in 18-karat gold “When Chinese consumers buy a The Bri-Star official said lightweight piece of jewellery, the first thing they look and more affordable jewellery pieces catering to at is usually the brand, the weight of the stone or younger consumers will remain in demand in 2016. He simply the price tag. They don’t care much who the likewise underscored the importance of understanding designer is. This is very different from what I used to consumers’ needs. see in the US or Europe. Things are changing, but “From now on, Chinese manufacturers the Chinese middle class has only emerged not long must know what is in demand before going ago. It takes time for many to learn to appreciate good into production. The common practice of mass design and fine jewellery,” said Yep, who launched his production based on imitation, regardless of real own namesake label in 2005. JNA demand, has resulted in overstocking, and this is true not only for the jewellery sector.” One of Bri-Star’s strengths is its ability to purchase For more updates on Hong Kong’s chief jewellery designers and manufacturers, large quantities of loose diamonds at competitive log on to prices, thanks to a joint venture operation in the US with one of the largest diamond Sightholders in the jewellerynewsasia.com
︱March 2016 27 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG
An 18-karat gold and diamond pendant and a pair of earrings from AQUEEN’s Pappus Collection. Photo credit: All jewellery photos by WCJ International Ltd
HK manufacturer eyes younger, aspirational consumer market
By Karl Tang
ong Kong jeweller WCJ International Ltd is tapping into the younger consumer market as part of its Hgrowth strategy. While diamonds are among the jewellery-loving crowd’s perennial favourites, design-focused, colourful and high-quality contemporary pieces at affordable price points are among WCJ’s key product offerings this year, company chairman Benny Do said. “We want to win over the next generation of luxury consumers through trendy collections that are pegged at more accessible price points,” Do said. The collections were launched at the March Hong Kong Fair.
Accent on colour WCJ International Ltd WCJ’s market strategy is largely anchored on its Chairman Benny Do jewellery brand, AQUEEN. “Traditionally, pearls go with white diamonds, but we want to do something new. Hence, we are using yellow diamonds with South Sea pearls under our brand, AQUEEN,” Do said. The brand’s Coronation and Lofty collections highlight yellow diamonds. Another collection, Astarte, is set with yellow diamonds and South Sea pearls. Launched in 2012, AQUEEN marked WCJ’s progression from an ODM to an OBM specialist. The brand has since started building up its own international sales network. “We have points of sale for AQUEEN in China, Japan, Singapore and Egypt,” Do said. Targeting the mid- to high-end market and sophisticated consumers who have a deep appreciation
A pair of 18-karat gold earrings with diamonds and enamel from AQUEEN’s Enamel Collection
28 ︱March 2016
JEWELLERY: HONG KONG
for gemstones and design, the brand debuted with three An 18-karat collections of 18-karat gold jewellery set with brilliant- and gold bracelet princess-cut diamonds. These butterfly-themed pieces with a butterfly- were priced at $1,000 to $32,000, according to Do. motif charm from AQUEEN’s The diamonds used in the collections were Enamel Collection meticulously selected, he continued, adding that the stones were set with the jeweller’s trademarked “Mi-Princess” diamond- setting technique. AQUEEN continued its development over the years with the launch of more affordable collections usually falling in the range between $260 and $2,600.
International markets Do launched his career in the jewellery sector as an apprentice a few decades ago. In 1983, he, alongside his brother, invested in a jewellery workshop. In 1991, Do launched WCJ. “As a manufacturer and wholesaler, we have built a strong presence in China, the US, the Middle East and Hong Kong over the years. We are also active in Southeast Asia and Europe,” he said. Specialising in diamond and South Sea pearl jewellery, WCJ operates a production facility in Shunde, Guangdong Province, which employs around 400 people. The factory produces about 20,000 pieces of jewellery every month, Do said. Fully recognising the importance of market diversification, WCJ established an office in Dubai in 2005 to tap into the Middle East market. Their Middle East customers prefer larger-sized pieces in more elaborate designs while WCJ’s US customers favour trendy and 18-karat affordable collections. Chinese buyers look for gold rings with items that double as alternative investments, he diamonds by WCJ continued. These pieces are usually International Ltd set with solitaires.
Nimble enterprise Market diversity has helped cushion the company from
the challenges associated with an economic downturn. A pair of diamond “We were only slightly affected since the Middle earrings by WCJ East market remains robust and the US has started International Ltd showing signs of economic recovery last year,” the WCJ chief said. China’s economic slowdown did not come as a surprise to Do, underscoring the importance of keeping abreast of market trends. “At the end of 2014, we paid a lot of attention to risk assessment and market outlook reports. We had prepared ourselves for the possible decline of the Chinese economy before anything significant happened. When things began to go downhill in China, we simply focused on other markets and made the necessary adjustments,” he said. Taking pride in the quality of their products, Do said WCJ excels in precision manufacturing. “Our strict quality and cost control procedures give us an edge in the market,” he said. “Our design and marketing teams are also quick to anticipate shifts in trends and consumer demand.” JNA
30 ︱March 2016
JEWELLERY
jeweller presents couture 2 Italiancollections in HK 1 igh-end jewellery retailer and manufacturer Larry Jewelry recently presented some of the most exceptional creations of HItalian brand Picchiotti. The exhibition was held at Larry Jewelry’s flagship store on Queen’s Road Central. Some of the items showcased were inspired by Picchiotti’s most iconic piece, the Rose Brooch, which debuted in 1967. Featuring a rose blossom of more than 400 brilliant-cut pavé-set diamonds, each of the seven petals is composed separately, and then assembled with the 3 mastery and finesse that go into every Picchiotti piece, the company said. The sinuous stem is set with baguette diamonds. The Rose design has been expanded to include necklaces, earrings and rings.
1. An 18-karat white gold ring with a 12.70mm golden South Sea pearl, a pear- shaped coral and 1.01 carats of round 4 diamonds from the Essentially Colour Collection 5 2. An 18-karat white gold necklace with pearls, diamonds and a coral centre stone from the Essentially Colour Collection. The necklace has seven golden South Sea pearls, a pear-shaped coral and 9.24 carats of round diamonds 3. A pair of 18-karat white gold earrings with four golden South Sea pearls, two 6 pear-shaped corals and 87 points of round diamonds from the Essentially Colour Collection 4. An 18-karat white gold diamond brooch from the Rose Collection 5. An 18-karat white gold ring with a 5.03- carat oval-shaped sapphire centre stone and accented by 2.79 carats of tsavorites and 1.22 carats of round diamonds from the Rose Collection 6. An 18-karat rose gold brooch from 7 the Bow Collection with an 11.59- carat tanzanite cabochon, 2.17 carats of tsavorites and 6.41 carats of round diamonds 7. An 18-karat white gold peacock brooch from the Fauna Collection with a 5.77-carat pear-shaped Zambian emerald centre stone, four pear-shaped fancy yellow diamonds with a total weight of 1.03 8 carats, 13.92 carats of emeralds and 8.91 carats of round diamonds 8. An 18-karat white gold necklace with two oval-shaped sapphires weighing 1.89 carats and 1.35 carats, 1.86 carats of tsavorites and 1.45 carats of round diamonds from the Rose Collection Photo credit: All jewellery pieces by Picchiotti
32 ︱March 2016
CONVERSATIONS
Cubic zirconia. All product images by Dalloz Stones
synthetic stone specialist gears up for strong growth
By Bernardette Sto. Domingo Frenchalloz Stones started as a lapidary industry in France in 1917. Backed by nearly 100 years of stone-cutting expertise, this Dfamily-owned company says it has developed and implemented modern technologies over the years, which elevated its art of stone- cutting to one of the best in the market. Clement Petit, managing director of Dalloz’s Hong Kong office, shares with JNA the company’s business strategy in Greater China and opportunities in the synthetic stone market.
JNA: What makes Dalloz stand out from the competition? Clement Petit: The company has an unparalleled experience in the field, thanks to its stone-cutting legacy. Mastering geometry and precision in the cutting and polishing of stones allowed us to provide, and guarantee, jewellery manufacturers a stable and consistent supply of stones at a controlled cost. The merger of Dalloz and Durafourg in 1990 accelerated the international ascent of the company and made Dalloz Stones a major player in the trade of Swiss machine-cut cubic zirconia, synthetic stones and genuine marcasite. Dalloz is also the only manufacturer to produce its own rough material through Ceres Co, a US based eco-friendly producer of rough white and coloured cubic zirconia, and France-based RSA, a global specialist in the production of rough corundum and spinel. These two companies allow the Dalloz Group to guarantee complete control of the
Clement Petit of Dalloz Stones
34 ︱March 2016 CONVERSATIONS
full production process from one end to another and maintain its competitive advantage by offering new products and specific colours.
JNA: Could you share with us your business strategy in Greater China? Petit: We seek to strengthen our upstream business by further developing our listing with brands and OEMs who take into consideration our competitive strengths. In the meantime, we are also boosting our sales force to increase our market presence. To help us in this process, we are improving our marketing and communication plans. In 2015, we launched a new brand – Dalloz Stones & Rough – to promote our fully integrated production process. In terms of price positioning, we are also constantly improving. To support our growth in volume, Dalloz is investing heavily in new fully automatic machines, which allow us to improve our production cost and offer more affordable products.
JNA: Tell us about Dalloz’s plans to bolster its From top: Dalloz’s manufacturing facility in France and ties with Greater China-based designers. How ruby corundum would this benefit the jewellery industry and your company? JNA: What is in store for Dalloz in 2016? Petit: The jewellery industry is strongly linked Petit: We are launching an extensive range of to fashion. The speed of its evolution drives us new colours for 2016, thanks to new initiatives in our to develop new products and to meet market factory and improved offer of nano rough. Several expectations. In fact, we try to take the most colours have already been selected and cut in our advantage as possible of the opportunity to have our factory. Our research and development team in the US own raw plants by working closely with Ceres and is also working on new rough products with specific RSA. It is important to be proactive and to stimulate physical properties. We are also making available new developments. This creates value for the market rough stones in fancy shapes. and allows us to differentiate ourselves from the competition. JNA: What “new” markets are you looking at for Dalloz? JNA: What were Dalloz’s chief achievements Petit: Our team is working on several initiatives to in the Greater China market in 2015? expand our global foothold. Vietnam is a promising Petit: Our main accomplishment would have market. We have a number of Vietnamese clients to be our continued growth in this region, fuelled at present, but several companies are moving their by demand from existing and new clients. We face production facilities there in search of more affordable strong competition especially from Chinese stone labour costs. We are likewise planning to fortify cutters but customers recognise that we offer the our distribution partnerships in Indonesia to further right mix between quality, price and service. Moreover, develop our presence in this significant market. The they take into consideration the fact that our rough Middle Eastern market is another area that we want to products are made in the US using environment- improve on. On the other hand, we are also keen on friendly processes. In Asia, we also ventured into focusing on key markets where we are already present direct sales with major manufacturers. We offer to further strengthen our business. JNA specific and adaptable services for each client. Last year, we also endeavoured to consolidate our position in some markets where we essentially operate with dealer networks. This allows us to be For more Conversations, log on to more responsive to the needs of our customers and to boost collaboration with our distributors. jewellerynewsasia.com
︱March 2016 35 DESIGN
melds classic and modern designs
By Bernardette Sto. Domingo Anitanita So of Hong Kong describesSo herself as a new-generation fine jewellery designer. A former A financial regulator, So says she has always been fascinated by the beauty of jewellery, albeit having no background in the trade. This, however, did not deter her from pursuing her dream. In 2005, she left her job and took a graduate gemmology degree and a design course at the Gemological Institute of America, and a carving course in Taiwan. This kick-started So’s colourful journey into the world of fine jewellery design.
JNA: How did your career as a jewellery designer start? Anita So: This is quite a long story. My interest in jewellery started during my university days Anita So’s ‘Find Your Inner Tortoise’ jadeite and coloured gemstone brooch. This in London. At that time, my piece won the Merit Award at the 16th parents were not very keen Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition Necklace from the with me pursuing a jewellery Shanghai Renaissance design course. They said Collection it was going to be hard to penetrate the industry, which was dominated by family businesses, industry leaders and popular brands. They asked me to go into accounting and I did. But in my heart, I remained faithful to my dream. I graduated, joined a professional organisation and started working as a regulator. After several years, my interest in the financial field started to wane. I wanted to do something more fulfilling; a creative endeavour where I can freely express myself. I quit my job, took up jewellery courses and joined the jewellery trade. I worked in a diamond shop at the Mandarin Hotel for almost a year and subsequently started to design my own jewellery line, and join competitions and jewellery shows. Nowadays, my parents support me a lot. My father takes photos of my collections while my mother joins me during trade shows.
JNA: Tell us something about your company and design philosophy. So: The company, Osatina Jewellery, specialises in fine jewellery adorned with diamonds, pearls and jadeite. I
36 ︱March 2016 DESIGN
would describe my designs as an ideal mix between classic and modern concepts; they are one of a kind and unconventional. Before I design a piece, I always ask my client what kind of look she prefers and which materials she would like to use. In this way, it’s easier for the designer to fulfill whatever the customer wants. Designing jewellery has now become more customer- centric and customisable pieces have become the norm. Customers are in control of what they want in a jewellery piece. If I do my own pieces – like for instance, a competition piece – it may sometimes be difficult for a normal office lady to wear. It may be too big, bulky or outrageous to wear every day to work. If it’s for competition, it depends solely on me and what I want to do. I started all my designs with keshi pearls. I particularly liked them for their irregular shape; you won’t find two pieces with a similar shape. I then transitioned to round pearls and gemstones. Jadeite, diamonds and pearls are the dominant materials in all my collections.
JNA: Your designs are very avant-garde. What Jadeite pendant adorned with South Sea and Tahitian pearls, is the feedback from your customers? diamonds, tsavorites and enamel in 18-karat gold So: Buyers love designer pieces but most of the time, especially now, they are not willing to splurge also felt the impact of the global economic slowdown. on a big-ticket piece. We have some items that But my strategy is to continue offering high-quality feature a combination of traditional and non-traditional products because that’s what people remember. materials and these are not expensive. For instance, When they need to go to a party or buy a present, I made a necklace inspired by the “qipao” or the they remember me and come to me. We also come Manchurian long dress. Qipao is usually worn with a out with fresh collections every now and then to keep pearl necklace. The Shanghai Renaissance Collection our inventory attractive to clients. features decorative silk buttons that come in different colours and patterns, matched with freshwater JNA: How can up-and-coming pearls and cubic zirconia, or jadeite and designers contribute to the diamonds. development of the fine jewellery trade? JNA: Who are your clients? So: Some people think I am quite So: My customers are mostly brave to have pursued my dream even at from Hong Kong. I don’t get bulk a later stage. I was in a totally different orders often; I create one or two field; I had a steady job and income as a pieces of every design. I also have public servant. I gave everything up and some European clients whom I meet entered the jewellery business using my at international trade shows. At the own savings. It’s never too late to follow moment, we are not eyeing new markets. your dream. My contribution is perhaps to We want to target mainland Chinese serve as an inspiration to other people. Since buyers, but the competition is too stiff. I come from a different field, I’m also It’s a very big market and we have to Nature-inspired ring from the indirectly injecting fresh and progressive sort out which particular segment we Garden Walk Collection ideas into the jewellery business. JNA want to tap. I definitely want to enter the China market but I have to do my research first.
To know more about today’s fast-rising JNA: What is your growth outlook in 2016? stars in the jewellery industry, log on to So: The market dropped significantly in 2015; even the big brands and chain stores suffered so we jewellerynewsasia.com
︱March 2016 37 DESIGN
Open Group I: CHAMPION
Product Name: Surging Thoughts Category: Earrings Designer: Vora Ding Company: Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd
Creative talents show brilliance at JMA International Jewelry Design Competition
ome of the most promising designers in and turn those ideas into reality and further raise their the region’s jewellery industry and their profile on the global market. Smanufacturing partners took top honours in the Revolving around the theme “Heartfelt Moment 2015 edition of the JMA International Jewelry Design 15,” the competition was divided into three categories Competition. Organised by the Hong Kong Jewelry namely Open Group I, Open Group II and Computer- Manufacturers’ Association (HKJMA) and Hong Kong Aided Design. For more details about the contest, log Jewelry Express (HKJE), the competition gives aspiring on to www.jmadesigncompetition.org. Here are some designers and established jewellery manufacturers the of the outstanding entries in the 2015 edition of the unique opportunity to showcase their design concepts JMA International Jewelry Design Competition.
38 ︱March 2016 DESIGN
Open Group I: MERIT
Product Name: Loving From A Distance Category: Ring & Brooch Designer: Zhuang Sand Na Luo Company: Hong Kong Tak Fook Jewellery Ltd
Open Group I: MERIT
Product Name: Horse Racing Category: Ring Designer: Man Hon Yan Company: Myer Jewelry Manufacturer Ltd
Open Group I: MERIT
Product Name: Home… Homing … Hope Category: Ring Designer: Le Zhen Company: Edelweiss Jewellery Co Ltd
︱March 2016 39 DESIGN
Open Group II: CHAMPION
Product Name: Memory Fragment Category: Necklace Designer: Huang Wei Company: Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Co Ltd
Open Group II: MERIT
Product Name: Gift Of Life Category: Pendant Designer: Millie Ho Company: Attilio Fine Jewelry Open Group II: MERIT
Product Name: Young Category: Necklace Designer: Daniel C Company: Handosy Jewelry Design Institution
Open Group II: MERIT
Product Name: Dancing Of The Heart Category: Bangle Designer: Chou Yi Ting Company: A. Effe di Faggioli Alberto
40 ︱March 2016 DESIGN
BEST CRAFTSMANSHIP AWARD
Product Name: Cool Night As Water Category: Bangle Designer: Novia Chui Company: Guangdong CHJ Industry Co Ltd
BEST MARKET VALUE AWARD
Product Name: The Sound of Blossom Category: Earrings Designer: Le Zhen Company: Edelweiss Jewellery Co Ltd
︱March 2016 41 TECHNOLOGY
Laser machinery solutions
ounded in 2010, Dongguan cutter among other tools. Leadboom Photoelectronic We supply the jewellery FTechnology Co Ltd of China industry fibre laser markers has risen to become a leading and portable laser welders. laser machinery expert specialising This year, we are launching in the production of marking, a new equipment – a small- cutting and welding machines. Its scale laser cutter for cutting products are used by the jewellery, gold and silver sheets with electronics and food industries. In a thickness of 1mm. After this interview, Leadboom General consulting with our customers, Manager Sun Li Zhong talks about we found that there is strong the company’s core strengths and demand for such a low-cost its vision to promote the “Made in but high-efficiency tool. Our China” brand in the global laser machines are widely used in machinery sector. different fields with high precision. Apart from machinery for jewellery JNA: What are your core manufacturing, we also provide products that are intended for hardware tools, stainless steel, the jewellery sector? aluminium, LED lighting, auto LB-MF20 portable laser marker from Sun Li Zhong: We manufacture accessories, clocks and watches, Dongguan Leadboom Photoelectronic and sell laser machinery such as electronic components and food Technology Co Ltd fibre laser marker, laser engraver, packaging, among others. portable laser welder and laser to our expertise in this field. JNA: Which are your major JNA: What are some of the markets? challenges faced by jewellery Sun: At present, we are equipment companies? actively supplying our products Sun: The market for fibre to Southeast Asia, Europe, laser cutting has become more South America, South Africa mature but mostly for high-power and the Middle East. We have segments. There is demand for been receiving positive feedback cutting and engraving of small from customers, thanks to our gold sheets; this is why we have commitment to providing top-quality developed our smaller, low-power machinery. We are planning to model, which we believe will meet aggressively expand our footprint in the current needs of the market. global markets in the coming years. JNA: What is your business JNA: What are your outlook this year? company’s main achievements Sun: We want to take a more in 2015? active part in international jewellery Sun: We consider gaining shows in Hong Kong in 2016 in line our customers’ trust and with our plans to boost our presence confidence, and giving them in existing markets and expand our satisfactory services among our reach into new areas. We will also major accomplishments. We also intensify our promotion and marketing established a long-term strategic campaigns through our website and Dongguan Leadboom Photoelectronic partnership with international B2B platform. The main goal this year Technology Co Ltd’s manufacturing professional laser research is to look for new partners, dealers, facility in China institutions, which further contributes agents and distributors to help us
42 ︱March 2016
TECHNOLOGY
SSEF expands global reach of diamond inspection machine he Swiss Gemmological In 2007, SSEF and the Institute SSEF is releasing electronic laboratory of the Automated Spectral Diamond Inspection an upgraded version of its University of Basel launched T device. Photo credit: Swiss Gemmological Automated Spectral Diamond the ASDI project. France-based Institute SSEF Inspection (ASDI) device for OPTEC Industries also contributed international distribution. its expertise. constructed, adapting it perfectly The system is designed to The first ASDI machine was for industrial environments. The new help the diamond industry face the unveiled in 2013 and since then upgraded version has also been threat of small synthetic diamonds has authenticated more than provided an automated symmetry being mixed into parcels of natural a million colourless melées, and proportion grading function.” colourless melée diamonds, according to SSEF. There are currently five ASDI according to SSEF. In 2014, SSEF founded SATT instruments being used on a ASDI is able to conclusively Gems AG to market and distribute daily basis. Two are operated by identify natural diamonds by sorting additional ASDI machines to major diamond trading companies in out both HPHT and CVD synthetic Swiss diamantaires and leading Switzerland, two by leading Swiss colourless diamonds as well as any watch and jewellery groups. watchmaking groups and one by a colourless HPHT-treated diamonds “With a unique capability of being diamond-grading laboratory. that may be included in a parcel, able to sort diamonds by size with “The challenge that the entire the company added. high precision, and at the same time, diamond industry faces from It is the only automated system authenticate each diamond’s natural undisclosed synthetic diamonds that can examine large numbers origin, the ASDI has been tested with requires an industrial solution, and of colourless melée diamonds as millions of melée-sized stones ever that is what we have developed,” small as one millimetre in diameter since a prototype was first released said Jean-Pierre Chalain, director of or 0.4 point in size at high speed in 2013,” noted SSEF. “Sorting at the Diamond Department at SSEF and low cost, the gem lab an average speed of 4,000 stones and head of ASDI Development at continued. per hour, the system is robustly SATT Gems. JNA
AIGS offers ‘Gem Dictionary’ 3D printer for jewellery he Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS) is offering manufacturers the mobile AIGS Gem Dictionary, which the institute says T provides fast and accessible information on gemstones to trade S-based Solidscape professionals and the public. Inc is offering a high- “The AIGS Gem Dictionary is the most Uprecision 3D printer for complete resource of its kind, which allows manufacturing wax patterns. industry professionals, students and consumers The Solidscape Max² could alike to learn more about gemstones, no matter aid jewellers in manufacturing wax where they are,” according to AIGS. patterns with higher throughput in The original English-language version of the much shorter periods, according gem dictionary – derived from the pre-eminent to the company. Dictionary of Gemstones & Jewelry by world- Equipped with a one-touch renowned gemmologist Akira Chikayama – has operation, the fully automated been translated into Chinese with the support printer combines the power of of the Beijing Institute of Gemology, AIGS a high-precision printer with the noted. The app can be downloaded for free, increased performance required the lab continued. JNA for manufacturing applications, it added. JNA The AIGS Gem Dictionary mobile app
44 ︱March 2016 TECHNOLOGY
Portable diamond imaging device hirtal DiaCam Ltd recently adjust colour balance, but also launched a diamond imaging to upload and download each DiaCam 360 Sdevice that creates high- scanned image faster. We have quality photos and 360-degree, also improved the sharpness and interactive videos of polished and brilliance of images, fine-tuned rough diamonds. the camera’s zoom options and The DiaCam360 was recently enhanced the controls of the presented at the International window’s viewing size.” Diamond Week in Israel. The latest DiaCam360 users can send model was likewise exhibited at the hundreds of diamond images to Hong Kong International Diamond, jewellery manufacturers and retail Gem & Pearl Show in Hong Kong. clients via email, the company said. Lior Hirsh of Shirtal DiaCam “In addition to the 360-degree commented, “The latest software view, we now also provide a ‘spin different perspective of a diamond,” upgrade of DiamCam360 allows from girdle to girdle,’ offering clients said Nimi Sadi, DiaCam360’s users not only to manually and end-consumers a completely marketing manager. JNA
HRD Antwerp’s 4Cs chart Patented sterling offered in multiple languages silver for casting RD Antwerp announced BI Asia Ltd has recently that its digital 4Cs developed a patented chart is now available in H silver for jewellery multiple languages in line with A manufacturing. According to the lab’s aim to better serve the the company, sterling silver has diamond trade. “The report is become a popular alternative a great sales tool to explain a for gold jewellery manufacturers diamond’s ‘4Cs’ to customers. Just looking to achieve lower price download the charts, store them on points for their jewellery designs. a tablet and use them during your ABI said the new Sterilite sales process,” HRD Antwerp said. De-Ox Sterling offers 12 percent According to the lab, the greater hardness to solve quality and value of a diamond durability problems when casting. is defined according to the 4Cs: “The new Sterilite has good carat, colour, clarity and cut. “HRD casting properties and tarnish Antwerp is an expert in analysing resistance that is significantly these characteristics, making sure higher than that of traditional consumers know exactly what kind of HRD Antwerp’s 4Cs chart in English sterling silver,” ABI said. “This diamond they are buying,” it added. metal can also be heat-treated The report is now available in (MoU) with the China University of to achieve 70 percent greater the following languages: English, Geosciences (Wuhan) and Chinese hardness than traditional sterling.” Spanish, German, French, Italian, jewellery retailer Chow Tai Seng – a This latest version of Sterilite Turkish, Russian, Portuguese, Arabic significant step towards establishing is likewise suitable for sheet and and Chinese. a Gemmology College in Shenzhen. wire applications, the company HRD Antwerp remains committed This institution aims to welcome said, adding that the metal to providing gemmological education its first students by the end of can be drawn to a hardness of to industry players and the general 2017 and will focus on developing 160V, which is ideal for bangle public. In 2015, it signed a gemmological courses and bracelet applications. JNA memorandum of understanding optimising teaching principles. JNA
︱March 2016 45 TRADE FAIRS: JGF EUROPE
Fine designs, rare gemstones at
wide range of finely crafted jewellery and exotic gemstones awaits professional buyers at the third A edition of Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe (JGF Europe), which is scheduled for March 19 to 22 at Messe Freiburg, Germany. The fair, organised by UBM EMEA and UBM Asia, will feature international jewellery manufacturers, established brands, and gemstone and jewellery traders. A bigger Packaging, Tools & Equipment Pavilion will also be returning to the fair, show organiser UBM Asia said. Two special sections – “Love” and “Design” – will be launched at the B2B show. “Love” will showcase branded bridal jewellery collections while “Design” will serve as an international networking platform for Europe’s promising designers led by Hochschule Trier, Campus Idar-Oberstein and Hochschule Pforzheim. The fair will also feature group pavilions under the banners of ACODES of Colombia, Germany, Hong Kong, IBGM of Brazil, Italy, Mauritius and Thailand. Seminars focusing on timely industry issues will be held on the show’s sidelines. A gemstone seminar, titled “A visit to the world’s largest ruby, emerald and amethyst mines,” will be led by Dr. Claudio C. Milisenda from the DSEF German Gem Lab. Milisenda will discuss the gemstone mines of Gemfields. This seminar will be hosted by the Deutsche Gemmologische Gesellschaft e.V. on March 19. Two seminar sessions on wedding ring consultation, which will be hosted by USE Uhren Schmuck Edelsteine Bildungszentrum Pforzheim (USE), will be held on March 20. The seminar speaker, Arnulf “Kaju” Kienast, is the creative head and founder of platinum atelier and goldsmith Aurom from Worms, Germany. Since 2011, he has worked with USE in giving talks and lectures. Kaju is a jewellery industry veteran who is an expert on bridal jewellery as well as customer psychology and behaviour. Here is a glimpse at some of the fine jewellery collections and gemstones that will featured at the show.
1. A pair of hook earring in 18-karat rose gold by Mokoso Atelier, the fast- growing jewellery brand of MKS (Meisterhand Kraft Studio). These earrings, a part of Mokoso Atelier’s Burton’s World Collection, are set with orange sapphires and amethysts. The black cats are set with black and champagne diamonds with a total weight of 52 points 2. Pendant in 18-karat white gold from Mokoso Atelier’s Rock Candy Collection. The pendant is set with London and Swiss Blue topazes and light smoky quartz, and surrounded by diamonds (35 points each) and blue sapphires. The colour is enhanced using the blue-plating technique
46 ︱March 2016 TRADE FAIRS: JGF EUROPE
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1. From left: Ring in 14-karat white gold with tanzanite, red tourmaline and green beryl, and ring in 14-karat rose gold with morganite from Richard Hans Becker GmbH & Co KG’s Triple Collection 2. Coloured gemstone and diamond ring and earrings by Elaine Firenze of Elaine Ferrari Goldwaren GmbH 3. Rings in 18-karat white gold with, from left and clockwise, Paraiba tourmaline, red tourmaline and 6 tanzanite centre stones from Richard Hans Becker GmbH & Co KG’s Sculptures Collection 4. Rings in 18-karat rose gold with, from top, rose quartz, aquamarine, citrine, amethyst, green amethyst, brown moonstone, white moonstone, orange moonstone and grey moonstone centre stones flanked by diamonds by Diamond Group GmbH 5. Coloured gemstone and diamond bangle by Thien Po Jewelry Ltd 6. Ring and pendant with genuine Baltic amber by Gielo Baltic Amber
︱March 2016 47 TRADE FAIRS: JGF EUROPE
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1. Diamond pendant in white and rose gold by Elaine Firenze of Elaine Ferrari Goldwaren GmbH 2. Coloured gemstone rings and necklace in 18-karat gold from Atelier Kubik’s Sylvia Collection 3. Ring in 18-karat gold with a 6.27-carat Myanmar tourmaline centre stone and 16 points of diamonds by Ruby Dragon Jade & Gems Co Ltd 4. J. Köhle GmbH & Co KG’s SLIDE magnetic clasp. The clasp is available in 14- or 18-karat gold and silver, plain or set with diamonds or cubic zirconia 5 5. Tahitian pearl strand by Gyso Pearls & Jewellery Ltd
48 ︱March 2016 TRADE FAIRS: JGF EUROPE
1. Couple Rings in 18-karat gold from Brüder Nowotny GmbH & Co KG’s Fascination of Art Collection 2. Rings in 14-karat gold from Brüder Nowotny GmbH & Co KG’s Memoire 1 Collection 3. Gold Couple Rings with diamonds by August Gerstner GmbH & Co KG 4. Gold rings with, from left, diamonds weighing 5 points, 15 points and 25 points, from Fischer J. & Sohn KG’s Solitaire Collection 5. Couple Rings with diamonds from Fischer J. & Sohn KG’s Carbon Kisses Gold Collection. The ladies’ ring is embellished with five brilliant-cut diamonds
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︱March 2016 49 TRADE FAIRS: JGF EUROPE
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1. Boulder opal (Winton, Queensland) of 9.80 carats from Emil Weis Opals KG 2. Polished opal from Imagem 3. Australian black opal from 4 Aurora Gems Pty Ltd 4. Pink spinel from Pamir Gems Co Ltd 5. Untreated 66-carat morganite from Caram eK 6. Fine-quality coloured gemstones from Silken East Co Ltd 5 7. Opal pendant with diamonds set atop a slab of rough boulder opal from The Opal Corporation Pty Ltd 8. Tourmaline cabochons in a rainbow of colours from Günther Weinz GmbH
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50 ︱March 2016
TRADE FAIRS
1 2 Jewellery & watches watch trends he world’s leading watch and jewellery brands are raring to T showcase their latest innovations at BaselWorld 2016 – The World Watch & Jewellery Show – scheduled for March 17 to 24 at Messe Basel in Switzerland. Here are some of the fine creations that will be presented at the fair. Emanuel Ungaro
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1. SARCAR’s craftsmen have yet again proven their creativity with this timepiece of significant importance: The Royal Stallion. Its red gold bezel features a finely polished sculptured stallion and baguette diamond-set rein enhanced by SARCAR’s signature – a 1-carat diamond rotating solitaire revolving round a pavé dial 2. Since its inception, the Longines DolceVita Collection has illustrated the contemporary elegance of the Longines watchmaking brand worldwide. Inspired by the ‘Dolce Vita,’ it is an homage to the sweetness of life. Today, Longines introduces new models blending rose gold and steel that enrich the collection 3. Mingling gem-setting, precious materials and refined design, Geovani has been cultivating authentic expertise in the field of jewellery watches since 2005. Like all models composing the brand’s collection, Catherine is an anthem to diamonds and exalts the beauty of this precious stone through a dainty gem-setting technique. The bezel adorned with four concentric circles displays a pleasing contrast between the white colour of the steel and the warm shades of the pink gold or yellow gold PVD plating. Thus framed by a sparkling exterior, the bluish mother-of-pearl dial gives an exquisitely shimmering glow to the passing of time 4. Amid the current renewed craze for tiny ladies’ watches, Blancpain reinvents the enchanting design codes of the Ladybird in an ultra-thin contemporary version. First unveiled in 1956, this watch was equipped at the time with the smallest round movement on the market. Sixty years later, its slim white gold case highlighted by diamonds remains an elegant and refined embodiment of Blancpain’s technical expertise
52 ︱March 2016 TRADE FAIRS watches
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5. The Tempus Terrae carries Andersen Genève’s signature feature, which is adored by watch collectors: A very sober and classy watch case in gold with aesthetic simplicity. The centre of the dial is made of exclusive ‘BlueGold’ that Andersen Genève has been mastering for decades. It is a 21-karat gold with iron elements in it. Once heated, the gold gets an exclusive blue colour that reflects light in a very special way. No two dials get out of the oven with the same colour making every dial unique 6. Charriol has pushed its artistic expression to new heights with a flagship women’s timepiece for BaselWorld 2016. A new extension to the brand’s hugely popular St-Tropez collection, the 35mm ‘GlamMoon’ is the ultimate dress watch – a glittering gem imbued with marvellous mystique 7. Chopard’s Happy Fish Collection welcomes this splendid model. With the ‘métiers d’art,’ the new Happy Fish celebrates the magic of the underwater world. Offering a delightfully harmonious vision in turquoise and gold, the graceful movements and flowing curves of a majestic fish that is visible by night come to life through delicate engraving on the shimmering mother-of-pearl. The rounded shapes adorned with gold leaf create a softly glistening and luminous effect enhanced by graded shades of snow-set blue sapphires. Dancing across these waves are seven luminescent moving diamonds, while the red jasper eye of the fish stands out like an exclamation mark against the turquoise backdrop 8. The Premier Moon Phase 36mm by Harry Winston captures the serene beauty of the celestial sky, with a mesmerising moon that appears to travel across the horizon, before finding its way behind a white mother-of-pearl design, signifying the end of the lunar cycle. The lunar cycle, hours, minutes and date display are expertly powered by the HW5201 quartz movement, exclusive to Harry Winston. The migration of the moon is visible through a crescent-shaped opening, while the hour and minutes are indicated by elegant, bevelled hands. At 6 o’clock, an open circle, adorned with a yellow gold border, reveals the date 9. This delicate watch by Go, Girl Only of SMB has the ‘lightness of butterflies’ 10. Ladies’ timepiece with diamonds and white satin strap from Korloff’s New Jardin du Luxembourg Collection 11. With a nod to the iconic flower, this timepiece by Pierre Lannier has a white pearly face, rhinestone bezel, stainless steel casing and crocodile-effect leather strap 12. The horological creations by Kerbedanz are infused with powerful symbolism. These messages are conveyed through an artistic interpretation of the cases and dials on Kerbedanz watches. The Tree of Life is a jewellery anthem to immortality, symbolised by the tree after which it is named. With its deep roots and spreading branches, it unites heaven and earth, spirituality and eternity. Framed by a case entirely set with green emeralds that are the colour of life itself, a hand-sculpted gold tree adorns the green enamelled dial. This scene is suffused with the light of sparkling diamonds
︱March 2016 53 TRADE FAIRS
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1. ‘Byzance’ ring in black chrome and 18-karat white gold set with 15.57 carats of amethysts and 1.80 carats of brown diamonds by Garaude 2. ‘Byzance’ ring in 18-karat rose and white gold adorned with 23.11 carats of malachite cabochons by Garaude 3. ‘Macarons’ ring in 18-karat pink gold with Rose de France amethysts, rhodolite garnets and pink sapphires by Isabelle Langlois 4. ‘Snakes’ earrings in black rhodium and 18-karat gold set with diamonds, tsavorites, yellow sapphires, peridots and green tourmalines by Lydia Courteille 5. Rings in 18-karat yellow, white and rose gold set with, from top, topaz, lemon quartz, pink quartz, smoky quartz and citrine by Oressence of Marcel Robbez Masson’s Khéops Collection Emanuel Ungaro
54 ︱March 2016 TRADE FAIRS jewellery 6
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6. Coloured gemstone ‘Promise’ rings by Stefan Hafner 7. ‘Amazone’ double ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds from Messika Joaillerie’s Glam’Azone Collection 8. ‘Stars and Pearls’ Tahitian pearl double necklace by Porchet. The stars are in 18-karat white gold with diamonds 9. Gold-plated ‘Rosee du matin’ necklace by Nina Ricci of Groupe CL 10. Green mother-of-pearl bangle with diamonds from Picchiotti’s Spring Collection 11. Flora Insignia for Piccola Collection rings by MY iMenso. This special Insignia is made of natural dried miniature flowers captured in resin 12. Coulisse d’Opera necklace in 18-karat white gold with 3mm Akoya cultured pearls and 46 diamonds with a total weight of 12 points by Pacôma of Schmittgall
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TRADE FAIRS
Buyers at the 41st Istanbul Jewelry Show
IJS March to welcome thousands of buyers
he 42nd edition of the Sermin Cengiz, managing Istanbul Jewelry Show (IJS) director of UBM Rotaforte, T is set to welcome thousands highlighted the significance of of professional trade show buyers IJS, adding that Turkey’s jewellery when it opens on March 10 at the manufacturing sector is eyeing $5 Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo). billion worth of exports in the next The fair, which runs until three years and $12 billion by 2023. March 13, will showcase a wide “The show is a meeting point range of loose diamonds and and an ultimate trade platform that coloured gemstones, finished ranks high on the agenda of every jewellery, luxury watches as industry professional,” Cengiz well as packaging and jewellery earlier said. manufacturing tools. IJS is held every March and According to trade show October. organiser UBM Rotaforte, the event A number of leading companies presents opportunities for traders interviewed by JNA at IJS last year to strengthen their businesses and said Turkey’s jewellery export sector tap into potential markets in Turkey, remains a formidable player in the Europe, Middle East, CIS countries global industry despite political and North Africa. and economic uncertainties,
Last year’s March Istanbul thanks to the country’s jewellery A model showcasing gold jewellery at fair welcomed more than 26,000 manufacturing expertise and design IJS 2015 visitors from 111 countries, up 10 proficiency. percent from the 2014 show, data Propelled by strong overseas (JTR), the event will celebrate the from UBM Rotaforte revealed. The demand for Turkey’s core products, finale of the 8th AJUR Jewelry 2015 edition occupied more than the industry is angling for stronger Design Competition on March 11. 60,000 square metres of exhibition exports over the coming years. More than 1,500 members space covering six halls. Gold jewellery continues to of the JTR delegation will be According to the trade show be the most sought-after product attending the concert, according organiser, 70 percent of the buyers in Turkey’s export portfolio but to the association. The design were from Turkey with the rest the country’s diamond jewellery competition’s finale also includes coming from overseas. products are gradually making a special stage performances, The top foreign buyers at the solid impact in major international exhibitions and video presentations. show were from Iran, the UAE, markets, the companies noted. Ayhan Güner, JTR president, Algeria, India, Iraq, Lebanon, commented, “We hosted more than Saudi Arabia, Russia, Tunisia, Sparkling night 1,500 major jewellery buyers as our Greece, Morocco, Israel, Italy, Lebanese singer and actress VIP guests in 2015. This year, we Jordan, Germany, Syria, Egypt and Haifa Wehbe will also add sparkle have once again invited the most Bulgaria. to IJS March with a concert to be significant and large-scale jewellery More than 1,250 local and held on the second night of the buyers to Istanbul. We want them international vendors from more trade fair. to have a spectacular experience than 25 countries participated in Organised by the Turkish of Istanbul, both with our products the 2015 show. Jewellery Exporters’ Association and our hospitality.” JNA
58 ︱March 2016 TRADE FAIRS
(Left) From left: GJEPC Executive Director Sabyasachi Ray; Manoj Dwivedi, joint secretary at the Union Ministry of Commerce, Government of India; GJEPC Chairman Praveenshankar Pandya; Subhash Desai, minister of industries of Maharashtra; Alrosa President Andrey Zharkov; GJEPC Vice Chairman Russell Mehta and Saunak Parikh, convener for GJEPC Exhibitions – National present the Signature IIJS 2016 catalogue. (Right) Subhash Desai, minister of industries of Maharashtra, lights the ceremonial lamp during the inauguration of Signature IIJS 2016 and IGJME 2016. Looking on are GJEPC officials, Alrosa President Andrey Zharkov and Manoj Dwivedi, joint secretary at the Union Ministry of Commerce
Mumbai fairs off to a positive start he Gems & Jewellery Export Promotion Council continued. “GJEPC has called on the government with (GJEPC) kicked off this year’s buying season policy recommendations to enhance the ease of doing T with the 9th edition of Signature IIJS (India business in the country, with a special turnover tax International Jewellery Show) and the 3rd edition of regime for the trade, interest subvention scheme and the India Gem & Jewellery Machinery Expo (IGJME) in MIES, sale through SNZ (Special Notified Zone), VAT Mumbai. and state SEZ policy,” Pandya said. Chief Guest Subhash Desai, minister of industries Saunak Parikh, convener for GJEPC Exhibitions – of Maharashtra, formally opened Signature IIJS 2016 National, said the timing of the two fairs couldn’t have in the presence of GJEPC Chairman Praveenshankar been better. Pandya; Andrey Zharkov, president of Alrosa; Manoj Dwivedi, joint secretary of the Union Ministry of Commerce; GJEPC Vice Chairman Russell Mehta; Saunak Parikh, convener for Exhibitions – National of GJEPC and GJEPC Executive Director Sabyasachi Ray. The joint shows, which featured 580 exhibitors, drew more than 15,000 visitors from 375 Indian cities and 55 countries, GJEPC said. “India’s predominant leadership position in diamonds is known the world over. Business expertise and craftsmanship in diamonds and jewellery are inherent to the trade, and have been passed down through generations, which makes it unique [to India],” GJEPC’s Pandya said. The industry employs about 3 million people in India, and accounts for 13 percent of the country’s exports. “In spite of sluggish global demand and rough Alrosa President Andrey Zharkov is presented with a memento by, diamond prices affecting profitability, there is a fair far left, Subhash Desai, minister of industries of Maharashtra, and amount of optimism for the coming season,” he GJEPC’s Russell Mehta
︱March 2016 59 TRADE FAIRS
“This marked the first time that we conducted two shows simultaneously at the beginning of the year. Signature IIJS caters to the sourcing needs of India’s leading jewellery retailers and provides them with a platform to view the latest styles and trends, and replenish their inventories,” Parikh said. “IGJME showcases the latest product innovation and technological advancements to boost the quality and quantity of the trade’s production requirements.” Desai added, “The gems and jewellery trade is a jewel in India’s crown, and initiatives such as the Bharat Diamond Bourse, the world’s largest diamond business hub, has put Maharashtra at the forefront of the global gemstone and jewellery business. The new government’s approach is different and progressive, and we are serious about stimulating the ease of doing business. We are engaging the bureaucracy to reduce clearances/permits, end ‘Inspector Raj’ (‘Inspector Raj’ refers to over-regulation by government of factories and industrial units, a practice which was rampant in the 1970s and 1980s), and harassment. Our strength is in our skilled manpower, and we are taking steps From top: Manoj Dwivedi, joint secretary of the Union Ministry of to enhance skills development and employability. We Commerce, receives a memento from GJEPC’s Saunak Parikh, far are working closely with bodies such as the GJEPC left. Looking on are Sabyasachi Ray and Praveenshankar Pandya; to revise SEZ policies, create an industrial park and an plain gold jewellery remains one of the fast-moving goods at international convention centre in the state.” Signature IIJS Dwivedi pointed out that, “India’s gemstone and jewellery trade is dynamic and innovative, and that’s security system. Major mining companies around the how it has achieved 70 percent to 80 percent of world world have already confirmed their participation in the leadership in key business segments. The two events SNZ through December 2016, GJEPC said. – Signature IIJS and IGJME – cover the entire gamut “The SNZ, initiated by GJEPC, has been a of the industry. The government of India is very keen welcomed move, and will help augment bilateral trade, to promote the gems and jewellery sector because especially for small- to medium sized enterprises,” of the twin benefits of employment-generation and Zharkov said. “Alrosa has been collaborating with enhancing export earnings. We hope Maharashtra GJEPC in various programmes, and we look forward State provides a good eco-system to the gems and to working with the new GJEPC team. One of the jewellery business for it to realise its potential.” main challenges is stimulating demand for diamonds Alrosa President Andrey Zharkov described Mumbai with a generic emotional and symbolic consumer as “the world’s capital of the diamond business.” campaign catering to the next generation of buyers. “Alrosa’s supply of diamonds to India has been The diamond trade is looking at several initiatives growing steadily since 2010. Last year, we did $1.5 starting this year.” billion-worth of business in India, which accounted Signature IIJS showcases the best jewellery for 45 percent of our total sales,” Zharkov said. “The collections by the country’s leading manufacturers. growth in our share of business was achieved in spite Restricted to about 580-plus exhibitors, the show of the overall slowdown in demand. The number of focuses on quality design, craftsmanship and finish. long-term buyers has increased to 12.” Covering an exhibition area of 30,000sqm, the fair Zharkov likewise lauded the launch of India’s boasted a Signature Club, which featured couture Diamond Trading Centre at the Bharat Diamond collections by India’s established ateliers. Bourse, which industry stakeholders said marked a IGJME 2016, which covered an area of 7,000sqm, significant milestone in Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s had 140 suppliers of machinery, tools, components, “Make In India” campaign to promote India as a global packaging accessories and allied products. One of the diamond trading hub. The SNZ is equipped with highlights of the 2016 show was the Italian Pavilion, viewing rooms on par with international standards, a which housed 26 exhibitors. The fair also featured the strong room, conference rooms and a state-of-the-art Turkish Pavilion, which had 10 exhibitors. JNA
60 ︱March 2016 TRADE FAIRS
From left: Buyers at the Shenzhen Fair 2015 and models showcasing fine jewellery collections at the China Jewellery Market Summit 2015
Shenzhen Fair returns in April he three-day China and an extensive range of Opal pendant by Hong Kong’s International Gold, Jewellery finished jewellery products Pointers Gemcraft & Jewellery Mfy T & Gem Fair – Shenzhen at the Korea, China Gold (Shenzhen Fair) will kick off on April Association and Baolin Market Summit, which 20 at the Shenzhen Convention & pavilions. welcomed more than Exhibition Center. It will be the 14th Following the 300 guests last edition of the trade show, which has festival season year, is scheduled grown into an important jewellery – a period for April 21. industry event in Southern China when gold and Companies may since its debut in 2003, according jewellery sales showcase their to trade fair organiser UBM Asia. are at its peak – collections, keep This year, more than 400 the Shenzhen Fair abreast of market local and overseas exhibitors is ideally timed for trends and network with have signed up for the show. jewellers who need to major industry stakeholders Buyers will find a wide selection replenish their inventories. In and experts during the summit. of loose diamonds at the Antwerp addition to gathering major Jewellers including Shenzhen Diamond Pavilion, premium jadeite vendors and manufacturers Ganlu Jewellery Co Ltd and products at the Taiwan Pavilion, of diamonds, coloured Rio Pearl will present their latest gemstones, pearls and collections at a Jewellery Parade finished jewellery, the show that will be held in conjunction will also feature an equipment, with the conference. At a forum, packaging and technology which will revolve around the section. theme “Creating New Opportunities Companies that are exploring in China’s Jewellery Market,” business partnerships and industry experts will share their expansion opportunities on insights about the use of creative the mainland may also reach marketing campaigns in China their target audience at the and the initiatives that need to be Shenzhen Fair. Home to around implemented to drive jewellery 3,600 jewellery companies, demand. Shenzhen is the biggest jewellery In 2015, the Shenzhen Fair manufacturing, processing and featured 409 quality exhibitors trading hub in China. from 12 countries and regions, A series of interactive activities and drew more than10,400 buyers Silver jewellery pieces from Taiwan’s will also be held during the show’s from 76 countries and regions, Dian-Ya Design Studio three-day run. The China Jewellery according to UBM Asia. JNA
︱March 2016 61 PEARLS
Lustrous pearls: Forever young
oko London has once again stunned with its latest collection of contemporary and sophisticated pearl Yjewellery collection. At the recently concluded March Hong Kong Fair, the brand unveiled one-of-a-kind masterpieces, including luxurious necklaces made of Tahitian, South Sea and freshwater pearls. The company also expanded its offering of contemporary pearl jewellery, such as the items seen in its Novus and Pendulum collections, Yoko London CEO Michael Hakimian said. “Over the past year, we’ve experienced growing demand for modern and easy-to-wear pearl jewellery at attractive price points – pieces which can be worn just as easily during the day with a pair of jeans and a jumper, and into the night with an elegant evening outfit. Going forward into 2016, we feel that the demand for this type of pearl jewellery will remain high,” Hakimian said. The current challenging macroeconomic environment is not putting a damper on Yoko London’s growth strategy. “We take a very long-term approach in the way that we do business. One of the benefits of this is that market fluctuations do not affect us in the same way they might do others,” he said. “Despite the economic environment, we also continue to innovate and create new products.” The fine pearl jewellery brand is also building on the momentum gained in 2015, which Hakimian described as an exciting year for Yoko London. “It started off with our partnership with the BAFTA Film Awards, during which many celebrities bejewelled themselves in our designs for the awards and surrounding parties. We went on to win the JCK Jewelers Choice Award for best pearl jewellery design for the second year running. We have entered into several exciting new partnerships with retailers across the globe. We launched three new collections and added many new designs to our existing collections. All in all, 2015 was a fantastic year for us,” he said. This year, Yoko London has several new partnerships in the pipeline, which will bring its exquisite jewellery to new audiences worldwide. “We are also bubbling over with creative new design ideas, which will be released throughout 2016,” he said. JNA
Clockwise, from left: An 18-karat white gold necklace with 11mm-14mm Tahitian pearls and 13.34 carats of diamonds; a pair of earrings in 18-karat rose gold with 12mm-13mm Tahitian pearls and 1.14 carats of diamonds. Please note these are ear jackets – so the bar is invisible behind the ear; an 18-karat white gold bracelet with 9mm-10mm South Sea pearls and 1.30 carats of diamonds; a pair of 18-karat rose gold earrings with 12mm-13mm natural colour, radiant orchid freshwater pearls and 27 points of diamonds. Photo credit: Jewellery pieces by Yoko London
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PEARLS
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earls have long been known as classic Pstaples but they 6 remain eternally young as well. Shown here 5 are different styles of jewellery using the beloved pearl.
1. Gold necklace with pearls, emeralds and diamonds from Moksh Jewellery’s Symphony Collection 2. South Sea pearl rings accented by diamonds by Jungle Jewellery Ltd 3. Tahitian pearl necklace by J Ocean Pearl Jewellery Ltd 4. A pair of earrings in white gold with baroque pearls and diamonds from Mousson Atelier’s Coral Reef Collection 5. A pendant designed as a Chinese padlock set with diamonds, emeralds, icy jadeite and 38 round peacock colour Tahitian pearls measuring approximately 10mm to 12mm by Dawn Jewellery (HK) Ltd. In Chinese culture, this padlock design conveys the message that ‘things will happen as one wishes’ 6. A gold pendant with an 11mm-11.5mm round Tahitian pearl accented by diamonds by Gyso Pearls & Jewellery Ltd 7. A pair of long earrings with pearls, sapphires and green tourmalines from Mousson Atelier’s Gothic Collection 7
64 ︱March 2016
PEARLS
From left: The exterior of Mikimoto’s store at 1881 Heritage and the store’s interior space
Mikimoto expands foothold in Hong Kong
ikimoto recently opened its police headquarters compound. A A pair of 18-karat white gold earrings latest boutique in Tsim Sha declared monument since 1994, with 13mm golden South Sea pearls and 2 carats of diamonds. This fine jewellery Tsui, a major commercial it was redeveloped in recent years M piece sells for $50,700 hub in Hong Kong, as the premier as a tourist attraction where many high-end pearl jewellery brand luxury brands have set up shop. remains one of the rarest pearls in continues to fortify its presence in The ceiling of the new Mikimoto the world. Not composed of nacre Greater China. store features a finely decorated as in the case of oyster pearls, it The boutique, located at 1881 central element, the pattern of which has a ceramic glaze-like sheen and Heritage and measuring 196sqm, is also projected onto the shop’s a flame-like surface pattern. While is Mikimoto’s seventh store in marble floor. The design is inspired it exists in a wide array of colours Hong Kong. One of the four oldest by the house’s legendary Wheel of including pink, white, yellow, brown surviving government buildings Arrows sash clip. Lavishly adorned and gold, those in orange-pink and in Hong Kong, 1881 Heritage with Akoya pearls, diamonds, purple-pink colours are the most used to be the city’s marine sapphires and emeralds, the sought after. 18-karat gold clip could be used in Currently displayed at the 12 different configurations. Exhibited boutique is an 18-karat white gold at the Paris Exposition in 1937 to necklace with conch pearls and much acclaim for its ingenuity, the diamonds, with its price yet to historic piece is now housed in a be determined. Necklaces and museum on Mikimoto Pearl Island. earrings featuring South Sea and The design of the VIP room, Akoya pearls are also on display, meanwhile, is based on wave with price tags ranging from patterns of Japan’s traditional $29,500 to $76,000. Nishijin-ori textile. The less intense Founded by Kokichi Mikimoto, light in the room, and the undulating who became the first in the world patterns on its walls, are meant to culture a semi-spherical pearl to create an ocean-at-night in 1893, Mikimoto is Japan’s first atmosphere for customers who want pearl specialty boutique. Its first to view jewellery items privately. store opened in Tokyo’s Ginza Fine jewellery pieces featuring shopping district in 1899. In 1913, pearls, including conch pearls, are the first overseas Mikimoto store shown throughout the store. Found was unveiled in London. The A model wears one of Mikimoto’s fine deep in the Caribbean Sea, the company currently has a presence pearl necklaces conch pearl cannot be cultured, and in 11 countries and regions. JNA
66 ︱March 2016
GEMSTONES
Jeweller highlights brilliance and beauty of
By Marie Feliciano
ine jewellery manufacturer Artinian Co Ltd recently unveiled a collection focusing on the emeraldsF lush beauty of emeralds. In an interview with JNA, company president and CEO Arto Artinian talks about his long-standing love affair with the green gem, Artinian’s exciting projects in 2016 and his company’s customer service-focused culture.
Top: Emerald and JNA: Please describe your latest fine emerald jewellery diamond bracelet. collection. What makes these pieces stand out? Top right: Ring with Arto Artinian: The uniqueness of this collection lies in the an emerald centre emeralds themselves. The quality, colour and size of the emeralds are stone surrounded exceptional. I would like to point out that four of the main pieces of by white fancy- emeralds in the collection were cut from one piece of rough shaped and pink diamonds stone. This undertaking has produced magnificent gems in terms of shape, colour, size and purity. More importantly, the emerald is completely natural and without any oil enhancement. The stones are of Colombian origin and recovered from the very famous mine of Chivor. Chivor emeralds possess great brilliance and clarity although they are lighter in colour. They are, however, so clear that you can see through them.
JNA: Why focus on Colombian emeralds? Artinian: Colombian emeralds have always fascinated me since I was very young. I started working with my father at the age of 21. During my early years in the business, one of my clients asked me if I could find him a piece of fine emerald. I visited one of the most famous emerald collectors at the
68 ︱March 2016 GEMSTONES
JNA: What would you say were Artinian’s major accomplishments last year? Artinian: We always look forward to developing and improving ourselves in all aspects of our business, be it in client services, manufacturing innovation and most especially, socially responsible business practices. I am very proud to say that we have greatly improved our facilities to meet these goals.
JNA: In addition to your latest emerald jewellery line, what other exciting projects have you lined up for 2016? Artinian: What I love about our industry is that there is no end to what we can create. There is always something new to get excited about. This year, we are Arto Artinian, president and CEO of Artinian Co Ltd developing a whole new jewellery line for our brand, Sartoro, which my time and he asked me, “What sort of emerald are you brother and I created. We are taking looking for?” I said my client wanted a nice 5-carat this brand forward with our new design emerald. I left with one of the nicest 5-carat stones and marketing teams. in his inventory! When I returned from my trip and presented the stone to my client, he immediately fell in JNA: What are Artinian’s love with it. That was the last time I saw that emerald. competitive strengths? Artinian: We value our people JNA: Who are your target buyers for your above all else that it feels a lot like we emerald jewellery collection? are one big family. This work culture Artinian: For centuries, emeralds have been fosters teamwork, which makes it the gemstone of royalty. They symbolise power possible for us to achieve great and wealth. Today, there are many collectors who things. understand and appreciate the beauty of these We have also nurtured stones. One needs to understand that this gem a culture of customer is of a very special nature. They “live” and thrive in service. We can create pockets along the rivers of Colombia, so they need completely independent teams moisture in order to shine and sparkle. If you ever for specific assignments, without visit Colombia, you will see its landscape blanketed impacting our other projects, in green – a beautiful reminder of nature’s gifts to from branding and specialised mankind. OEM manufacturing to private label I highly encourage our clients to understand the development. complexity and the difficult circumstances in which this Last year, we inaugurated our gemstone is mined to fully appreciate its beauty. state-of-the-art headquarters and production facilities in Thailand, which JNA: In spite of the challenging are equipped with design and product macroeconomic environment, do you remain development studios, advanced end- positive about your business prospects? Why? to-end manufacturing technologies, a Artinian: Economic cycles will come and go. CNC manufacturing platform, a master This isn’t the first time that the world has faced goldsmith’s atelier, state-of-the art setting challenges and it isn’t going to be the last. Looking and polishing systems, and a healthy, at the bright side of things, we are still living in a safe and hygienic work environment for part of the world that is enjoying economic growth. our staff. Our headquarters also features Sometimes, we should take the time to appreciate life a luxury showroom, which features some and exercise patience. of Artinian’s finest collections. JNA
︱March 2016 69 GEMSTONES
Belmont sees positive prospects in Asia merald producer Belmont “We also plan to consolidate Mine is bullish about its our business partnerships in E growth prospects in Asia’s Southeast Asia and focus on luxury jewellery sector. developing our relationships with In 2016, Belmont expects the new customers,” Ribeiro said. radiant green gemstone to shine Belmont is kicking off two even brighter in the region, said initiatives this year. company director Marcelo Ribeiro. The emerald specialist made “Green is the imperial colour,” its debut at BaselWorld as a Ribeiro said in reference to the source of conflict-free and eco- gemstone’s crisp and vivid hue. friendly emeralds, which the “Even the shortage of jadeite company executive described as has favoured our trade since “a challenging and exciting project
buyers see emerald as a beautiful for us.” Marcelo Ribeiro holds up a piece of alternative to China’s much-loved Another significant development Brazilian emerald gemstone. It’s no wonder that our in the company’s growth strategy is Hong Kong office has been one of the launch of its processing plant. supply, prices and consistency. our best bets in China.” “We will be closely scrutinising the “Customers who need consistency China is the Brazilian emerald performance of our new processing in colour and quality for jewellery specialist’s third-largest market after plant, which went into operation manufacturing know they can rely the US and Europe. last year, to boost Belmont’s on us to provide them with the According to the company production and quality control goods they need. They can create executive, Belmont has activities,” he said. an emerald line and continue with “successfully consolidated its As a mine-to-market it as they are assured of a reliable business with some major players company, Belmont offer buyers supply of stones,” Ribeiro said in in, Asia, the US and Europe.” significant advantages in terms of an earlier interview. JNA
Robust demand for premier-quality emeralds mco Gem Inc recently presented a broad range Its main markets are the US, Western Europe, of top-quality loose emeralds and finished India, Asia and Russia. E emerald jewellery in Hong Kong. According to the emerald expert, the market for The company specialises in fine premier-quality emeralds remains robust despite Colombian emeralds in singles, pairs a general slowdown in the global gemstone and and layout sets, as well as customised jewellery sector. jewellery with diamond and other “The demand for high-end material remains high. In gemstone accents. fact, there is still a gap between supply and demand,” “We have positioned the company said. ourselves as a prime In addition to Colombian emeralds, Emco also source of high-end specialises in diamonds and rare gemstones as well Colombian emeralds. Our as gemstone-cutting and fine jewellery manufacturing. major customers are wholesalers from “Emco has the knowledge, network and processes to all over the world as well as jewellery efficiently market and produce a variety of merchandise, manufacturers, designers and consistently delivering the best possible product to its retailers,” noted Emco. esteemed clientele,” the company said. Established in 1998, Emco is an affiliate of Left: A 15-carat cushion-cut emerald from Diamond Distributors, Inc. It operates offices Emco Gem. Right: Gem-quality briolette-cut and cutting facilities at the Emerald Trade Colombian emeralds with a total weight of 21 carats Center in Bogota as well as in New York. JNA
70 ︱March 2016
DIAMONDS
Building a strong diamond industry in
he Chinese diamond industry was not spared from the effects of the global economic slowdown in 2015. Despite significant T economic headwinds, China’s jewellery market continues to grow, albeit at a slower pace. Some diamond companies said their business aspirationsChina on the mainland are on track, with a number of active players even expanding their reach overseas. From rough sourcing, cutting and polishing to jewellery design, manufacturing and marketing, the Chinese diamond industry has maintained its momentum in the last two decades. In this feature, diamond manufacturers shared with JNA their insights about China’s Diamond ring from luxury jewellery market and its future growth potential. Tesiro’s Blue Flame Collection Rough diamond sourcing There is always high demand for rough diamonds from Chinese diamantaires who provide polished diamonds to overseas buyers and local retailers. Since domestic consumption has surged in recent years, the Chinese retailers’ demand for polished diamonds has started to surpass that of overseas buyers and – to complete the circle – polished stones bought by overseas jewellers often ended up as finished jewellery pieces sold in China. China is the world’s second-largest diamond manufacturing centre after India but diamond wholesalers and retailers in the country purchase most of their polished diamonds from overseas suppliers, resulting in high-cost pressure for the sector, said David Wang, chairman of Shenzhen Cheungning Diamond Co Ltd.
Diamond necklace by Eurostar Diamond (Shanghai) Co Ltd
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He also underscored the importance of liquidity management for the industry. “The jewellery sector is vulnerable to macroeconomic conditions, and the inventory costs required are enormous. We have to figure out a way to help diamond companies solve liquidity issues. We have to help them obtain the necessary financing and open new funding channels. The industry has adopted the ‘hang together or hang separately’ strategy, creating a peer-to-peer lending platform to solve liquidity problems. The SRDE can help the industry build a complete end-to-end service for its healthy and long-term development.” SRDE, which has started operating, is anticipated to receive goods amounting to $100 million in 2016, Wang continued. This figure is expected to double in the next few years. “2016 will be a crucial year for the diamond industry. A company should keep adjusting its strategies to strengthen itself. It should use legal Shenzhen Rough Diamond Exchange Co Ltd in Luohu District means to build up its brand and image in the market. We hope the market will recover and boom again However, the sector may soon wean itself off its in 2016. It’s important that every stakeholder stays dependence on imported polished diamonds with upbeat and toughs it out,” he said. the establishment of the Shenzhen Rough Diamond Exchange Co Ltd (SRDE), which already obtained its Professionalism registration certificate for bonded warehouses from the Jack Jiang, managing director of Eurostar Diamond Shenzhen Customs House, Wang revealed. (Shanghai) Co Ltd, said he expects the market to According to Wang, SRDE – co-founded by show some signs of improvement in the second half Shenzhen Overseas Chinese Town Co Ltd, CITIC of the year. “The Chinese diamond market was at its United Asia Investments Ltd, Beijing LDY Asset most volatile in 2015. It felt like living through a long Management Co Ltd and Shenzhen Cheungning winter, not just severe fluctuations. We don’t expect Diamond Co Ltd – is the first bonded warehouse the first half of 2016 to be too different from the for gemstones and jewellery materials in Shenzhen. second half of last year, but with the readjustment and It obtained its licence from the Shenzhen municipal diversification of the industry chain, we expect to see government in August 2014, with a registered capital more healthy competition and more professionalism in of $15.2 million. the second half of the year,” Jiang said. The industry is now facing more challenges, In order to build a more competitive industry, Wang said. “The diamond and jewellery sectors Jiang believes that all stakeholders – upstream and have shown signs of decline in recent years. Some downstream – have to work closely together to form of natural selection is going on. Shrinking consolidate resources and push for professionalization. consumption, combined with cut-throat competition, “There will be reduced inventories in the first half of is reducing profit margins and encouraging illegal 2016, which will lead to market adjustments and practices like smuggling. Under such circumstances, standardisation; hence, we have a brighter outlook for a diamond company can only strengthen itself, the second half of 2016,” he said. becoming more competitive in order to Jiang said the crisis will only bring out survive,” he explained. the best in the industry. “We have hit rock SRDE was founded to meet the bottom, but that only gives us the chance demands of the industry, providing to start all over again. A lot of brands and bonding, warehousing, viewing, and manufacturers are repositioning their import agency services for rough and products, and trying to take advantage polished diamonds, and coloured of their own strengths. They will gemstones, as well as financing make better products and provide services for companies, better customer service, that’s revealed Wang. for sure. The whole luxury
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goods sector is put at a low ebb since Chinese consumers buy most of their luxury items from other countries but jewellery is an exception. Traditionally, people buy jewellery at home, not abroad. This will help the industry survive,” he continued. Diamonds in the Chinese market are mostly Diamond Eurostar (Shanghai) Co Ltd bought as engagement and wedding gifts or as a form of investment. Facing the e-commerce revolution and the popularity of customised jewellery, Jiang said the industry should embrace the C2B model and create a more standardised market. In other words, professionalization is the way to go, from the upstream to the downstream sectors. Upstream manufacturers do not only need to obtain high-quality rough goods and enhance their production capabilities, they also need to listen to their customers to understand what they need, work with them to create demand, and focus more on bespoke products, he added. A designer working on a diamond necklace layout Innovation Lack of originality and cut-throat competition have a big investment was rare in the diamond industry but it always hampered the growth of the Chinese diamond would eventually pay off since it exposes the audience industry. Richard Shen, CEO of Tesiro, which operates to the trade and the diamond jewellery pieces worn by more than 500 stores in mainland China, said the their favourite actresses. This is beneficial not only for the company has put its focus on innovation, be it in brand but also for the whole jewellery sector. He added designing, marketing or retailing. that Tesiro would continue to use television and movies Shen revealed that Tesiro still managed to record to promote diamonds, especially Belgian-cut stones. double-digit sales growth in 2015. Shen is optimistic about the industry’s outlook “We launched our Blue Flame diamonds a few in China due to the country’s huge population. “The years ago, thus introducing the premier Belgian cut to number of middle-class Chinese almost equals Chinese consumers. In fact, each of our products has that of the whole population of the US, and a big a story to tell. This cultural and sentimental approach population means big spending power. It also helps to jewellery-making is what we’ve insisted on for that traditionally, Chinese consumers like to buy for the almost two decades. That’s what keeps us growing in sake of investment. Education will allow more Chinese spite of the challenges over the years,” he said. consumers to appreciate the value of diamonds. A strong marketing strategy is one of the Moreover, China is still developing, and greater wealth company’s strengths, according to Shen. “We want will mean a bigger market for the industry,” he said. our jewellery collections to be acknowledged by trade Shen also pointed out the significance of jewellery professionals but we also want them to be loved by in Chinese culture. end-consumers. We have accomplished the latter “The diamond is something that can be passed through the entertainment industry,” he said. down in the family for generations; it is something that is full of sentimental value. It will never become Cultural values obsolete, even in the Internet and e-commerce age. Last year, the television series Diamond The demand for diamonds in China will only increase Lover, sponsored by Tesiro, was as the quality of life improves. The key is to strike a aired in mainland China. Through chord with consumers, and that’s where the cultural the popular series, the company’s aspect of jewellery comes in,” he said. JNA jewellery collections managed to reach a large group of potential consumers. Shen said such For more diamond market reports, log on to Diamond ring from Tesiro’s Museum Collection jewellerynewsasia.com
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WFDB chief calls on diamantaires to reach out to millennial consumers
By Marie Feliciano
he diamond industry needs to initiate creative marketing programmes to flourish in today’s T intensely competitive marketplace. Ernie Blom, chairman of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), explains to JNA the importance of winning the hearts, minds and wallets of the millennial consumer; the significance of the World Diamond Mark programme; and the pressing issues that will be tackled at the World Diamond Congress scheduled for May 16 to 19 in Dubai.
JNA: What are the most challenging issues faced by the diamond industry today that will be addressed at the World Diamond Congress in Dubai in May? Ernie Blom: We are still facing a range of challenges. These include financing for the industry, declining profitability, generic marketing of diamonds, overgrading and undisclosed synthetic diamonds. WFDB Chairman Ernie Blom On the issue of financing in the diamond trade, this touches on one of the biggest challenges facing our sharply in the final quarter of last year. I believe there is worldwide industry. We have seen declining interest still not enough of a gap with polished goods, however. among the banking community in providing credit to And that leads, quite naturally, to the issue of our members, which makes the work of an industry promotional activity to boost demand for diamond such as ours all the more difficult because we are so jewellery. Since De Beers ended its generic global reliant on capital to finance our activities. promotion work in the previous decade, the diamond The WFDB is taking a proactive approach in industry has failed to develop a unified approach to this arena. We are working with ABN Amro Bank, take on this task until now. the biggest provider of finance to the diamond and Regarding overgrading and undisclosed mixing jewellery industries, on a template for the banks and of synthetic diamonds with natural mined goods, the our members. This aims to explain to diamond firms WFDB will have zero tolerance for such activity. the concerns and requirements of the banks regarding the diamond trade. It also provides the banks with JNA: The diamond industry landscape is in-depth information regarding the diamond trade and changing. What makes WFDB an even more what it needs in order to operate. important leading organisation in this evolving On the subject of falling profitability, we have advised landscape? our members, manufacturers and others in the midstream Blom: I believe that the size and scale of our part of the market for some time to be aware of the membership makes us a pre-eminent force in the damage they are doing to themselves by buying rough industry. We have 30 affiliated bourse members, goods almost at any price. This is what pushed prices covering the whole planet. Our members at the of rough diamonds to levels that were, frankly, totally affiliated bourses deal with around 95 percent of all unrealistic. I am glad to see that rough prices declined diamonds traded around the globe.
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We are also looking to expand our membership are issues that strike a deep chord not only with with the associate member and country member environmentally aware younger people, but also with categories. I believe this will further expand our their parents’ generation. membership base. JNA: How much of a threat are synthetic JNA: There were some small – albeit positive diamonds to the natural diamond industry? signs – that the diamond industry might just be Blom: I do not believe we should see synthetic heading for a recovery. Could you kindly weigh diamonds as a threat. All diamonds have their place in on this? Do you think De Beers’ recent actions in the market. Consumers should be free to make have a lot to do with this development? their own decisions about the diamonds they are Blom: I have seen various reports along these offered. All we ask is that synthetic diamonds are lines since the start of the year. In January, De Beers fully disclosed. and Alrosa together sold around $1 billion of rough goods. It is still perhaps a little early to reach a firm JNA: Why should the industry support the conclusion, however. World Diamond Mark initiative? Blom: Reclaiming buyers is, without doubt, a JNA: What do you think should diamond huge challenge for the diamond industry, and that is industry stakeholders do to make consumers, why the WFDB launched the World Diamond Mark especially the younger generation, excited again (WDM) initiative. We need consumers to regard regular about diamonds? diamond jewellery purchases as a natural and ongoing Blom: While demand for diamond jewellery activity. Engagement and wedding ring purchases are increased to an all-time high in 2014 of $81 billion, very important, but there are so many other occasions the Millennials, that is younger people in the 18-35 for which diamond jewellery can be purchased and we age range, prefer items such as smartphones and need to show buyers those opportunities. other electronic gadgets and so-called “experiential” The World Diamond Mark was launched by the activities, such as a vacation to an unusual destination. WFDB three years ago to promote consumer desire How do we reach out to the Millennials? We need for, and confidence in, diamonds. The aim is for to be talking their language and that is partly why the sales of diamonds and diamond jewellery to perform WFDB launched and fully supports the World Diamond significantly better in the luxury product consumer Mark (WDM) initiative. market. And to reach that goal, the industry – from Globalisation and the effect of the global financial diamond producers to retail jewellers – is acting crisis of 2008 have changed the world forever. together to promote, advertise and market diamonds Consumers have different tastes and requirements, and diamond jewellery more effectively and visibly to especially the Millennials generation. That does not the end-consumer. mean they do not want diamonds anymore, it just We plan to work closely with the Diamond means we have to think much more imaginatively Producers Association, which was established last about how we present them as a consumer year by the major diamond producers, including, purchase option. of course, Alrosa. This is a huge opportunity and How do we reach this important demographic we believe that only an initiative spanning the entire group? They are often immune to traditional diamond pipeline can produce global results. advertising, seeing it as outdated. We have to use the tools they like – and that means marketing in a digital JNA: Why should industry stakeholders world, including social media – to reach them. But we participate in the World Diamond Congress in May? also have to find a new language that will appeal to Blom: Firstly, the presidents and some other top them. They have grown up in a completely different officials from the WFDB’s 30 affiliated bourses will be socio-economic and marital environment. They are attending along with the presidents of the International plugged into a 24/7 news and information world and Diamond Manufacturing Association. In addition, feel completely comfortable with it. there will be representatives from the major diamond It’s also critical that we provide this age group producers, banks and other associated companies with honest and up-to-date information about involved in the diamond industry, so the networking what we are doing to address some of the issues opportunities are excellent. facing our industry such as conflict diamonds We will be holding a series of wide-ranging and our sustainable development work in creating discussions, tackling all the issues that are on the minimal damage to the environment because these diamond industry’s agenda. JNA
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Baoulé kimberlite pipe in Guinea
Stellar sets Baoulé diamond sale in March
tellar Diamonds Plc carats were sold in 2015 with over scheduled its next diamond $700,000 in revenues.” Stellar Diamonds Plc sale from trial mining In February, Stellar Diamonds S A 9.23-carat rough from the Baoulé operations of its Baoulé kimberlite uncovered a 55.64-carat diamond kimberlite project project in the Aredor area of Guinea at the Baoulé kimberlite pipe. The in March. The sale will take place at recovery confirmed the presence of diamonds of up to 12 carats in size. the DDA trading platform in Antwerp. large stones in the pipe, according “The presence of the 55.64-carat According to Stellar Diamonds, to the company. stone confirms the company’s a total of 3,295 carats will be on A total of 8,043 carats have belief that the Baoulé pipe is a offer during the auction. been recovered to date from source of large diamonds and The goods can be viewed Baoulé at an average grade of supports the investment thesis of at the DDA trading offices from 12.7 carats per hundred tonnes a potentially lower grade but high- February 25 until the auction (cpht). This grade is slightly lower value kimberlite ore body,” the concludes on March 8. Interested than 13.5 cpht that was previously company earlier commented. and compliant qualified groups can reported due to an average lower Stellar also said its objective arrange viewings by appointment grade for the west lobe (11 cpht) to mine and process 100,000 only and by registering with DDA, as compared to the east lobe tonnes of kimberlite is now 63 the diamond company said. (13 cpht). This seems to be a percent complete. Karl Smithson, “This diamond sale forms consequence of fewer smaller Stellar chief executive, commented, part of the company’s trial mining stones in the -7 sieve fraction and “With approximately 63 percent evaluation process of the five- thus should not impact negatively of our trial mining and processing hectare Baoulé kimberlite pipe on the gross diamond value, at Baoulé now complete, subject where some 100,000 tonnes is explained Stellar. to the company having sufficient being mined and processed in The 55.64-carat diamond is the working capital, we are currently order to determine with confidence largest stone discovered to date at on track to finalise the trial mining the grade and diamond value of Baoulé. and processing of 100,000 tonnes the pipe,” noted Stellar Diamonds. A total of 610 stones greater in the third quarter and looking “Over 9,000 carats have been than 1 carat were unearthed, forward to providing further updates yielded to date and some 5,173 including numerous gem-quality in due course.” JNA
IIDGR to offer grading services in new markets he International Institute all sizes, colours, shapes and extremely accurate and consistent of Diamond Grading & qualities, the company said. service and our leading capabilities T Research (IIDGR) will provide However, the service will be in diamond verification provides a grading service from each of available only for natural, untreated customers with an additional layer its laboratories in Belgium, India diamonds, it added. of confidence. and the UK following an initial pilot IIDGR President Jonathan “When considering our grading testing of the service in the Far Kendall said, “Our service aims service alongside our range of East, De Beers announced recently. to provide diamantaires with total detection equipment and our melee The service, which employs peace of mind when it comes to testing service, IIDGR is breaking De Beers’ proprietary grading grading. The innovative technology new ground in providing top quality, technology to provide accuracy solutions developed in-house at innovative, competitively priced and and consistency, is suitable for De Beers enable us to provide an highly reliable diamond services.” JNA
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Lucara reports steady growth in 2015 ucara Diamond Corporation in the company achieving a 30 reported solid growth in 2015, percent return on equity and A 336-carat rough from Lucara Lciting completion of significant our strong cash generation has Lucara Diamond Corporation projects and recovery of various enabled the introduction of a second largest gem-quality diamonds gem-quality diamonds. progressive dividend for our ever to be recovered in Botswana. In a report, the company shareholders going forward,” Lamb The company sold a total of said revenues reached $224 continued. 377,136 carats for gross proceeds million while earnings before In 2016, the company will focus of $223.8 million at an average interest, taxes, depreciation and on completing the installation of its price of $593 per carat in 2015. amortization was $134 million. Mega Diamond Recovery circuit “The diamond market experienced William Lamb, president and as well as organic growth at the some weakening in 2015 and CEO, commented, “2015 was a Karowe mine through its deep drilling we retain a cautious outlook on year of strong operational delivery and exploration programmes in diamond prices for 2016. We with the timely completion of our Botswana. believe the long-term fundamentals plant optimisation project and large Lucara ended 2015 with a for the diamond market remain diamond recovery, culminating in diamond inventory of over 60,000 strong and with the outstanding the recovery of the second and carats. quality of our Karowe production, sixth-largest gem-quality diamonds In November 2015, the company Lucara is in an excellent position ever to be unearthed.” announced the recovery of the for continued financial growth and “Our continued focus on 1,109-carat Lesedi La Rona along we remain committed to achieving cost control and our disciplined with an 813-carat stone from the strong returns for our shareholders,” deployment of capital has resulted Karowe mine – the largest and the company said. JNA
404-carat diamond unearthed at Lulo in Angola ucapa Diamond Co Ltd and of the 404.2-carat diamond marked its partners recently recovered a “significant day for our country, L a 404.2-carat diamond our diamond industry and for the from the Lulo Diamond Project in Lulo Diamond Project.” Angola’s Lunda Norte province. “The Lulo diamond field is The diamond was confirmed an example of what we would to be a top-tier Type IIa D-colour like to showcase to the world to
gem, and is the largest recorded Lucapa Diamond Co Ltd encourage international investment diamond ever found in Angola, in Angola’s diamond mining A 404.2-carat diamond from the according to Lucapa. It was industry,” Sumbula said. Lulo Diamond Project in Angola recovered from alluvial Mining Stephen Wetherall, chief Block 8 at Lulo, which has interest in the alluvial diamond executive of Lucapa, said the already produced more than 60 mining operations. Endiama has a recovery of the 404.2-carat diamond large special diamonds since 32 percent interest while Rosas & underscored the “very special nature mining commenced in the area Pétalas holds 28 percent. of the Lulo diamond field.” in August 2015. The previous Lulo is located within 150km of “And while we continue mining largest diamond recovered at Lulo Alrosa-operated Catoca, which is these exceptional alluvial gems weighed 133.4 carats. the world’s fourth-biggest diamond from Mining Blocks 6 and 8 at The Lulo project is a partnership mine and accounts for about Lulo, we are also continuing to among Lucapa, Endiama E.P. and 75 percent of Angola’s annual advance our systematic exploration private local partner Rosas & Pétalas. diamond production. programme to find the kimberlite Lucapa is the operator of the Lulo Endiama Chairman Antonio source of these diamonds,” project and has a 40 percent Carlos Sumbula said the recovery Wetherall said. JNA
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