::fws review ::

Santé’s goal is to present foods, wines, and spirits of outstanding value and quality that are worthy candidates for restaurant food preparations, wine lists, and drink menus.

For each issue, Santé solicits product Only products that are recommended samples for inclusion in feature reviews appear in the review. Food, wine, and and mini-reviews. Feature foods are spirits are evaluated by Santé ’s select chosen with an eye—and palate—toward tasting panel. premium and artisanal products that can benefit professional cooking. Santé ’s A Santé Gold Star is awarded to Cheese Review is a regular feature, products of exceptional merit, as showcasing culinary cheeses as well as determined by our reviewers. Products small-production products suitable for an receiving the Santé Gold Star are array of uses. identified with the following symbol:

Feature wine and spirits reviews Wines that show an exceptional quality- correspond directly to the topics of our to-price ratio are indicated as excellent feature stories. Mini-reviews are smaller by-the-glass choices and identified with in scope and cover a variety of themes. the following symbol:  Additionally, Santé invites producers, food + wine + importers, and distributors to submit Wines are listed in four wholesale price spirits review new releases of wine and spirits for categories: review. These samples are considered 68. Ancient Grains for inclusion in the Santé Selections $ $120 or less per case 69. Domestic Gouda portion of the review. $$ $121–$200 per case $$$ $201–$300 per case 71. Absinthe All products are evaluated on a variety $$$$ $301 or more per case of criteria, including aroma, taste, 72. Santé Selections—Spirits texture, and availability. Each review is 73. Margaret River Wines a brief description of the food, wine, To submit products for evaluation or spirit’s characteristics, followed by a in the food, wine, and spirits review, 76. California Italian Varietals general use and/or pairing suggestion. contact Emily Gold: 77. Santé Selections—Wine Products are listed within each category [email protected]. in alphabetical order by brand name. the panelists: John Alexopoulos, wine and beverage consultant, Manchester, VT :: Levent Bozkurt, proprietor, Stonehedge Inn and Spa, Tyngsboro, MA :: Laurie Daniel, wine journalist, Los Gatos, CA :: Michele Duval, wine and spirits director, Wentworth by the Sea Hotel, New Castle, NH :: Linda Fondulas, proprietor, Hemingway’s Restaurant, Killington, VT :: Ted Fondulas, executive chef and co-owner, Hemingway’s Restaurant, Killington, VT :: Lisa Futterman, cheesemonger, Pastoral Artisan Cheese, Bread, and Wine, Chicago :: Ann Gastrich, wine educator, American Wine Society, Pound Ridge, NY :: Bernard Gastrich, wine educator, American Wine Society, Pound Ridge, NY :: Raul Gonzalez, assistant restaurant manager, Adour Alain Ducasse at The St. Regis Hotel, New York City :: Doug Paulding, member, Sommelier Society of America, South Salem, NY :: Ari Sadri, sommelier, Pitcher Inn, Warren, VT :: Maarten Vandersman, CWE, freelance wine educator, New York City :: Rob Costantino, managing editor :: Ashley Brenon, senior editor :: Emily Gold, associate editor

march / april.2009 SANTÉ 67 ancient grains Reviewed by the Santé tasting panel.

Bob’s Red Mill Organic Quinoa / Ecuador Light and flu!y with subtle grassy Guide to Ancient & flavors and a slightly chewy crunch. Unusual Grains Greek-style cold salad. Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods, Although the fact is not detailed below, many of the grains 503-654-3215 presented here are nutritious as well. They contain high amounts Bluebird Grain Farms Emmer of minerals and protein. Farro / Washington Bob’s Red Mill Whole Grain Plump, chewy berries with a nutty, Te! / Idaho AMARANTH—Amaranth is a traditional food in Africa and was hearty flavor. Nicely packaged; Tiny red-brown granules cook up a favorite of both the Aztecs and Native Americans. Despite its grains are clean and consistently thick and creamy; fine, farina-like ancient associations, this tiny seed’s cost-e!ective production and sized with little to no dust or texture has some crunch; flavors high yields ensure its future popularity. small particles. Stayed whole after are that of cooked butternut cooking. Savory pilaf. squash. Prepare like grits FARRO—Also known as emmer wheat, farro was one of the first Bluebird Grain Farms, for a breakfast side dish. crops domesticated in the Near East. It produces decent yields in 509-996-3526 Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods, poor soil and has good resistance to fungal diseases. 503-654-3215 Bob’s Red Mill Hulled Millet / KAMUT—Of uncertain origin, Kamut is the name of cultivar QK- North and South Dakota 77. It cooks and tastes very much like durum wheat and is grown as Ivory in color with a flu!y, creamy an organic crop. texture and hearty, starchy flavors of cornmeal. Very versatile MILLET—This small-seeded cereal grain is an important staple for a side dish, pilaf, or sweetened ConAgra Mills Ancient Grains throughout the world and was the basis of many prehistoric Far breakfast dish. 5 Grain Blend (Sorghum, Millet, Eastern diets. It is commonly ground into flour. Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods, Quinoa, Te!, Amaranth) / 503-654-3215 United States QUINOA—The seeds of this plant, which is related to Swiss chard, Very fine and smooth in texture have been an important food in the Andean region of South Bob’s Red Mill Organic with some flecks of sorghum or America for 6,000 years. Crunchy and nutty, quinoa is great for Amaranth / Peru te!; gray-cream in color. Can be grain-based salads or as a pilaf. Beige, tiny flat circles cook up substituted for equal parts flour, creamy and porridgelike with although it does change the color SPELT—Important in ancient Greece and Rome, spelt is related to crunchy quinoalike “tails.” A little of the product. Shows deep, common wheat. It was replaced by bread wheat in the United States bitter with sharp, toasty notes nutty, wheaty flavors and tends to in the early twentieth century but came back into fashion at the end and exotic Indian-like spice notes. readily absorb moisture. of the century due to its suitability as an organic crop. Binder for veggie burgers. Hearty wheat breads. Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods, ConAgra Mills, 800-851-9618 TEFF—This seed is from an annual grass that originated in 503-654-3215 Ethiopia between 4000 and 1000 BC. “Te!” is a derivative of the Indian Harvest Black Barley / EthioSemitic root “t!” that means “lost,” referring to its minute size. Bob’s Red Mill Organic Kamut United States It is often ground into flour or made into porridge. Berries / Montana Charcoal in color; cooks up round Slim grains with a golden yellow and plump with very nutty, earthy, TRITICALE—“Ancient” is a misnomer for this grain, which is color; a little dry with mild, nutty robust flavors. On the finish, a cross between rye and wheat. Developed in the late 1800s, it flavors and substantial chewiness. flavors of fresh-ground co!ee and combines the good eating qualities of wheat with the disease and Add to hearty wild semolina; very flavorful with great environmental tolerance of rye. mushroom soup. texture. Add to chicken soup. Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods, Indian Harvest Specialtifoods, Inc., 503-654-3215 800-346-7032

68 SANTÉ march / april.2009 indicates use/serving indicates beverage indicates Santé recommendations pairing suggestion Gold Star ::food review ::

Indian Harvest Black Quinoa / Lentz Emmer Farro / Nash’s Rye / Washington Bolivia Washington Short, stocky grains are brown- Deep, earthy flavors of shiitake Cooked up plump and pleasantly mustard in color with deep, robust mushroom with lots of chewy chewy with a squeaky snap in flavors of rye and wheat; very crunchiness; crisper, more the mouth. Hearty and robust chewy with some crunch. separate grains than white quinoa. with full, rich corn and semolina Hearty stews or pilafs. Visually very appealing with its flavors. Add to beef stew. North American Import & Export, black-brown coloring. North American Import & Export, 888-276-5955 Crispy Asian-type salad. 888-276-5955 Indian Harvest Specialtifoods, Inc., 800-346-7032 Lentz Spelt / Washington Plump whole berries with a chewy Indian Harvest Farro / Italy outer shell; earthy flavors with the This sample cooked di!erently slight tang of fresh goat cheese domestic gouda from the others because it was and a little yeastiness on the finish. Reviewed by Lisa Futterman “pearled or scarified” to reduce Savory pilaf. cooking time. It cooked quickly North American Import & Export, Bleu Mont Dairy Cave Aged Grassfields Cheese Organic with no presoaking needed. 888-276-5955 Gouda / Wisconsin Gouda / Michigan Slightly starchy and soft in texture, Cow’s milk, aged 16 months Raw cow’s milk, aged 5 months it tasted of pu!ed rice. This natural-rind example tastes A unique example of a natural- Creamy Italian-style risotto. like an Alpine cheese. Complex rind Gouda made from organic Indian Harvest Specialtifoods, Inc., buttered popcorn aromas and milk; the paste smells of hay and 800-346-7032 the nutty, salty flavors of the tastes tangy and sharp while golden paste are o!beat and the stony rind o!ers a whi! Indian Harvest Red Quinoa / nontraditional. Loire Valley of minerals and earth. Crisp Bolivia Cabernet Franc. Riesling from the Finger Lakes. Sienna brown in color; chewy with Les Moulins Mahjoub M’hamsa Bleu Mont Dairy, 608-767-2875 Grassfields Cheese, 616-997-8251 flavors of raw hazelnuts and some Couscous / Tunisia sweetness and toasty notes on the Although not an ancient grain, Marieke Gouda Plain / finish. Pilaf with toasted this was a unique durum wheat Wisconsin nuts. product. Very similar to Israeli Raw cow’s milk, RBGH free, Indian Harvest Specialtifoods, Inc., couscous in appearance with aged 4 months 800-346-7032 more texture and chew; fairly Dutch immigrant Marieke uniform round balls with a nice Penterman’s Goudas taste like Indian Harvest White Quinoa / amount of salt and a strong flavor Holland. This youngest cheese is Bolivia of semolina. Great as a Bravo Farms Dutch Style sweet and pale gold with a distinct Cooks up light and flu!y with savory side dish. Gouda / California toasted nut flavor. very mild starchy flavors and a The Rogers Collection, Raw cow’s milk, RBGH free, Hollands Family Cheese, slightly crispy crunch. Cold 207-828-2000 aged 2 months 715-669-5230 spring salad with asparagus. This small-batch California Indian Harvest Specialtifoods, Inc., Nash’s Certified Organic cheese has a springy, mozzarella- Marieke Gouda Plain / 800-346-7032 Triticale / Washington like texture that squeaks on the Wisconsin Similar to spelt in appearance teeth. Its butter yellow color and Raw cow’s milk, RBGH free, Indian Harvest Wild Black but slightly rounder and plumper appealing level of salt make it aged 1 year Quinoa / Bolivia when cooked; robust, chewy a great candidate for melting. This year-old Gouda retains Dark mahogany brown in color; outer shell and oval-shaped grains The perfect grilled cheese the creamy smoothness and very tiny, crunchy granules with are interspersed with tiny round sandwich. sweetness of the younger but grassy wild rice flavors. berries; hearty alternative to Bravo Farms Handmade Cheese, shows an appealing crystalline Savory side dish. barley. Hearty stews. 559-897-4634 texture with more earth on the Indian Harvest Specialtifoods, Inc., North American Import & Export, nose. 800-346-7032 888-276-5955 Hollands Family Cheese, 715-669-5230

march / april.2009 SANTÉ 69 Oakvale Farmstead Cheese Roth Käse Vintage Van Gogh / Smith’s Farmstead Aged Smith’s Farmstead Plain Gouda / Aged Gouda / Ohio Wisconsin Gouda / Massachusetts Massachusetts Raw cow’s milk, aged 10 months Cow’s milk, aged for a minimum Raw cow’s milk, RBGH free, Raw cow’s milk, RBGH free, Aging both sharpens and smooths of 6 months aged 1 year aged for at least 60 days this cheese into a mellower Textbook Gouda flavors of The classic nutty and Parmesan- Mild, clean dairy flavors and version of itself. Great caramel and fruit layered with like aromas develop with a year a pleasantly smooth texture for cooking; it could stand in a deep, mustardy aroma and of age, but the texture remains are the result of small-batch for Parmesan as a strong flavor an appealingly rich mouth- creamy. Begs to be melted cheesemaking from the farm’s presence. feel combine to create a truly into a béchamel for a creamy, own milk. An appealing entry- Oakvale Farmstead Cheese, “munchable” cheese. notable baked macaroni and level Gouda. India pale ale. 740-857-0000 Roth Käse USA, 608-845-5796 cheese. Smith’s Country Cheese, Inc., Smith’s Country Cheese, Inc., 978-939-5738 978-939-5738

REVIEWER’S CHOICE: Smith’s Farmstead Naturally Smoked Gouda / Massachusetts Marieke Gouda Foenegreek / Wisconsin Raw cow’s milk, RBGH free, aged Raw cow’s milk, RBGH free, aged 4 months for at least 60 days Nubs of mapley fenugreek seed, which is a A light hand with the smoke Try pairing domestic Goudas traditional Gouda addition in the Netherlands, produces baconlike flavors that with American pale ales; Belgian highlight the butterscotch notes. A real home don’t overwhelm the taste of the dubbel and trippel bocks; juicy, run. pasture. fruit-forward Merlots; or o!-dry Hollands Family Cheese, 715-669-5230 Smith’s Country Cheese, Inc., Rieslings. 978-939-5738

Oakvale Farmstead Cheese Young Gouda / Ohio Raw cow’s milk, aged 3–6 months Pale, grassy, and buttery, this seemingly simple Gouda becomes multidimensional and tangy as it develops on the palate. Oakvale Farmstead Cheese, 740-857-0000

American Goudas reflect their origin in the Netherlands, where young, flavored, and aged Goudas are on o!er One of the reasons that my in every cheese shop. Gouda’s flavor profile strongly depends on its age. Young Goudas show a warm golden Gouda is so special is because of hue; a semisoft texture; and a sweet, inviting flavor. The “the quality of the milk.” aged Goudas in our review were still quite young by Dutch standards, where whole wheels can be aged up to six years —Willi Lehner, owner/cheesemaker of Bleu Mont Dairy to produce a pumpkin color and a candylike flavor and texture. The domestic aged Goudas tend to show a mellow, nutty sweetness balanced by a tangy bite. —Lisa Futterman

70 SANTÉ march / april.2009 indicates use/serving indicates beverage indicates Santé recommendations pairing suggestion Gold Star ::spirits review :: absinthe Reviewed by the Santé tasting panel.

Duplais Verte / Switzerland La Clandestine / Switzerland 68% alcohol 53% alcohol Light spring green in color with Milky in color with full aromatics notes of tarragon, Thai basil, and of anise, bitter herbs, and licorice; anise; full and harmonious on concentrated and complex with the palate with fresh herbs and a a pleasing bitterness in the finish. hint of licorice on the finish. Well / made. / Viridian Spirits, 212-230-1800 Tempus Fugit Spirits, 415-897-0524 Mansinthe / Switzerland 66.6% alcohol Celery green in color; well- integrated aromas and flavors of spearmint, fennel, and tarragon. Subdued and harmonious with a pleasant, deep bitterness on the finish. / Tempus Fugit Spirits, 415-897-0524

Grande Absente Absinthe Marteau Absinthe de la Belle La Fée Verte Originale / France Époque / Oregon No other spirit is responsible for more mystery and intrigue 69% alcohol 68% alcohol than absinthe. Its heyday in the late 1800s among the Light celery green in color with Yellow-green in color with bohemians led to its downfall in the early 1900s with the belief aromas and flavors of bright fresh, vivid aromas and flavors that there was a strong connection between drinking it, going anise, licorice, and lemon thyme; of wintergreen, birch beer, and insane, and subsequently committing violent crimes. Country thick and heavy on the palate savory herbs; deep, true flavors after country banned the import and production of absinthe, with moderate sweetness and a with good balance and a clean including the United States. The 1990s saw a resurgence of the pleasingly bitter anise finish. finish of pine forest. / spirit in European countries where it had not been outlawed; / Gnostalgic Spirits, Ltd. gradually, this renewed interest spread across the Atlantic. Crillon Importers, 201-368-8878 206-303-8647 Absinthe was determined legal to import and produce in the United States as of 2007. Kübler / Switzerland Obsello Verte / Spain Besides the traditional preparation, absinthe lends itself to 53% alcohol 50% alcohol studied mixing. Its complexity makes it a worthy addition to Dominant anise aromas and Light pine green in color with cocktails, adding a little je ne sais quoi to a bevy of decidedly flavors with bitter herbal notes of fresh aromas and flavors of fennel, dangerous-sounding libations, such as the Zombie, the Corpse parsley and dill; long anise finish. grapefruit, and sandalwood; Reviver, the Merry Widow, and the Monkey Gland. / balanced with spearmint and Altamar Brands, LLC, fennel on the long finish. / 949-718-4500 MHW/Bock and Glacier, 530-903-9907

Absinthe was so popular in the 1860s in Paris that 5 p.m. was called “the green hour” and was enjoyed by everyone from the bourgeois to the working class.

indicates a spirit that would indicates a spirit that would indicates Santé march / april.2009 SANTÉ 71 best be served straight up best be served mixed Gold Star REVIEWER’S CHOICE: santé selections Reviewed by the Santé tasting panel. Mata Hari / Austria 60% alcohol Bluecoat American Dry Gin / Intriguing light spruce green color with excellent Pennsylvania balance and focus. Complex aromas and flavors 47% alcohol of cedar, sandalwood, dried pine, and anise with A cool and refreshing mix of a full, lingering finish. / botanicals including grapefruit Beacon Beverage Imports LLC, 817-488-2805 peel, star anise, nutmeg, and white pepper; well integrated and Vieux Pontarlier / France elegant with savory spices on the 65% alcohol finish. Mint green in color with bright, natural aromas Philadelphia Distilling, Inca Gold Pisco / Peru and flavors of tarragon, fennel, white pepper, 215-671-0346 42% alcohol and celery root. Complex and harmonious with Intriguing notes of smoke, excellent balance and a pleasing, clean finish of oatmeal, cucumber, and aloe; anise and lime. / great balance with notes of green Tempus Fugit Spirits, 415-897-0524 bell pepper and co!ee bean on the persistent finish. Inca Spirits, Inc., 404-876-6727

Pernod Absinthe / France Vieux Carré Absinthe The Spirit of Liberty Cream 68% alcohol Superieure / Pennsylvania Liqueur / New Jersey Bright fluorescent green in color; 60% alcohol 18% alcohol vibrant, focused anise dominates Yellow-chartreuse in color; Haamonii Smooth Shochu / Thick, mouth-coating flavors with notes of licorice, savory complex with aromas and California of to!ee, sweet caramel, and herbs, and citrus; balanced and flavors of anise, grassy green 22% alcohol marshmallow; kick of heat in slightly bitter herbs through to the tea, spearmint, and tarragon. Sweet, smooth entry on the the finish. The Statue of Liberty long finish. / Balanced with rich, full herbal palate with bright, citrusy acidity on the top would make an eye- Pernod Ricard USA, notes and white pepper and and hints of pickled plum; lively catching addition to the backbar. 914-848-4800 citrus on the lingering finish. with gentle sweetness on the / / finish. Well made and elegantly CMSC Spirits Group, Inc., St. George Absinthe Verte / Philadelphia Distilling, packaged. Mix with fresh fruit 732-526-7460 United States 215-671-0346 juice. 60% alcohol Smooth Spirits LLC, 415-254-4338 X-Rated Fusion Liqueur / Brownish yellow in color; bold France and focused with notes of savory Haamonii Smooth Shochu 17% alcohol herbs, Thai basil, and fennel. Well Lemon / California Blended aromas and flavors balanced with a brief sweet honey 22% alcohol of blood orange, passion fruit, note on the palate and tarragon Zesty fresh lemon aromas and pineapple, and grapefruit; and citrus on the finish. / flavors with bright true lemon on shocking pink in color with Craft Distillers, 800-782-8145 the smooth, long finish. mouth-tingling acidity. Smooth Spirits LLC, 415-254-4338 Skyy Spirits, LLC, 415-315-8000

Absinthe is an anise and In the Annual Buying Guide, the below spirits were listed incorrectly. Plymouth Gin wor mwood flavored spirit, We apologize for the mistake. Pernod Ricard USA, 914-848-4800 “distilled from anise, fennel, and Absolut 100 Silk Vodka absinthium wormwood.” Pernod Ricard USA, 914-848-4800 57 Main Street Imports, 516-357-2070 Flor de Caña Black Label Stolichnaya —The Wormwood Society Skyy Spirits, LLC, 415-315-8000 William Grant & Sons, Inc., 212-244-9523

72 SANTÉ march / april.2009 indicates a spirit that would indicates a spirit that would indicates Santé best be served straight up best be served mixed Gold Star ::wine review ::

Devil’s Lair 2005 other white and margaret river wines Aromas and flavors of grapefruit white blends Reviewed by Laurie Daniel, except where noted. and green apple with generous oak. Creamy pasta with shellfish. WHITE The Yard 2007  $$ sauvignon blanc/ 83% Sémillon, 17% Sauvignon Foster’s Wine Estates, semillon blends Blanc 800-255-9966 Grassy aromas and flavors of Cape Mentelle 2007 pink grapefruit, green stalk, fresh Flinders Bay 2004 Unoaked 53% Sauvignon Blanc, pea, and hints of smoke. Chilled Aromas and flavors of toasted 47% Sémillon shrimp salad.
$$ nut with notes of citrus and pear. Fresh and crisp with notes of grass Vintage New World, 866-903-5356 Seared scallops. $$ Leeuwin Estate 2006 Riesling and lemon-lime on the palate. The Australian Premium Wine Art Series Oysters on the half shell. 
$$ chardonnay Collection, 800-485-5753 100% Riesling Moët Hennessy, 212-251-8200 All wines are 100% Chardonnay. Dry with aromas and flavors of Thompson Estate 2004 juicy lime and lime zest and a hint Clairault 2008 Creamy with flavors of ripe pear of kerosene. Smoked fish. 57% Sémillon, 43% Sauvignon and tropical fruit wrapped around  $$ Blanc a core of acid; some oak on the Old Bridge Cellars, 707-258-9552 Fresh and slightly grassy with finish. Scallops with beurre blanc. aromas and flavors of pink $$$ Vasse River 2007 Verdelho grapefruit and fig; soft finish. Pasta Vino Tech LLC, 908-832-1000 100% Verdelho salad with citrus vinaigrette.
$$ Beach Head 2008 Unwooded Crisp aromas and flavors of citrus Gia Cellars, 203-729-0103 Fresh aromas and flavors of green Vasse Felix 2006 and green apple with a hint of lime apple, lemon, and pear. Sauteed Toasty with aromas and flavors of peel on the finish. Moderately Cullen 2007 Ephraim Clarke calamari. 
$ bright apple, pear, and lemon with spicy Asian food. 
$ 80% Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River Wines LLC, a lingering finish. Dungeness crab. Margaret River Wines LLC, 20% Sémillon 704-821-6853  $$ 704-821-6853 Bright and lemony with a hint of Negociants USA, 707-259-0993 creaminess and persistent acid. Cape Mentelle 2006 ROSÉ Seared scallops.  $$$ Crisp aromas and flavors of lemon Vasse Felix 2005 Heytesbury Old Bridge Cellars, 707-258-9552 and green apple with a creamy Rich aromas and flavors of Beach Head 2007 Sunset texture and toasty oak. Steamed pear, pineapple, lemon, hints 100% Fragola Juniper Crossing 2007 Dungeness crab. $$ of minerality, and toasty oak. O!-dry with aromas and 66% Sémillon, 34% Sauvignon Moët Hennessy, 212-251-8200 Salmon. $$$$ flavors of raspberry, cherry, and Blanc Negociants USA, 707-259-0993 strawberry with a soft finish. Pungent and fresh aromas and Clairault 2007 Aperitif, spicy Asian dishes.
$ flavors of pink grapefruit and Citrusy and vibrant with aromas Wildberry Estate 2006 Margaret River Wines LLC, honeydew melon. Oysters on the and flavors of grapefruit, lemon, Taut with aromas and flavors of 704-821-6853 half shell.
$$ and a touch of wood; drying pear, citrus, and mineral. Oysters Vintage New World, 866-903-5356 finish. Grilled calamari.  $$ on the half shell.  $ RED Gia Cellars, 203-729-0103 Southern Starz, 866-57-STARZ shiraz Leeuwin Estate 2006 Siblings All wines are 100% Shiraz, except 68% Sauvignon Blanc, Clairault 2005 Estate Xanadu 2006 where noted. 32% Sémillon Toasty with aromas and flavors Rich aromas and flavors of Aromas and flavors of grass, pink of racy green apple and citrus; tropical fruit with a pleasant Beach Head 2002 grapefruit, tomato stalk, and drying finish. Grilled halibut. crispness and well-integrated Flavors of mint with bright green pea with hints of fig and  $$$ oak. Full on the palate with a long blackberry fruit and a hint of smoke. Chilled shrimp with citrus Gia Cellars, 203-729-0103 finish of ripe lime. Lump crabmeat roasted meat. Rack of lamb, vinaigrette.
$$ cocktail.  $$ venison.  $ Old Bridge Cellars, 707-258-9552 Rathbone Wine Group, Margaret River Wines LLC, 972-322-2699 704-821-6853

 indicates an excellent indicates Santé $ $120 or less $$$ $201–$300 march / april.2009 SANTÉ 73 by-the-glass choice Gold Star $$ $121–$200 $$$$ $301 or more Cape Mentelle 2005 Leeuwin Estate 2005 Art Series REVIEWER’S CHOICE: Rich and plump with aromas and Bright, smoky aromas and flavors flavors of blackberry jam and a of black raspberry, roasted co!ee, chardonnay hint of eucalyptus; firm tannins. mint, and white pepper; firm Leeuwin Estate 2005 Art Series Rack of lamb.  $$ tannins. Barbecued chicken. 100% Chardonnay Moët Hennessy, 212-251-8200 $$$ Toasty and rich with creamy pear and citrus on the Old Bridge Cellars, 707-258-9552 palate, firm acidity, and a long finish. Shrimp scampi, Clairault 2005 salmon. $$$$ Aromas and flavors of roasted Old Bridge Cellars, 707-258-9552 blackberry and white pepper; brisk acidity and firm tannins on the cabernet sauvignon long finish. Hanger steak. Woody Nook 2004 Gallagher’s Choice  $$ 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Gia Cellars, 203-729-0103 Dark and dense with bright aromas and flavors of spicy black cherry, cassis, and anise with a long finish. Flinders Bay 2004 Rack of lamb.  $$$ Fruit-forward bouquet of Margaret River Wines LLC, 704-821-6853 bright black raspberry, roasted Vasse Felix 2003 strawberry, and a hint of toasted 95% Shiraz, 5% Cabernet cabernet-based blends almond. Roast turkey. $$ Sauvignon Cullen 2005 Diana Madeline The Australian Premium Wine Smooth and supple with aromas 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 5% Malbec, Collection, 800-485-5753 and flavors of roasted strawberry, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot black raspberry, and some oak. Dense and complex with a bouquet of black fruit, Howard Park 2005 Leston Roast chicken.  $$$ notes of dark chocolate and mint, and firm structure. Dark and dense, with roasted Negociants USA, 707-259-0993 Grilled steak. $$$$ blackberry aromas and flavors and Old Bridge Cellars, 707-258-9552 a note of mint; firm tannins. Spicy Vasse River 2003 lamb sausage.  $$$ Tight with bright aromas and Devil’s Lair 2005 Bluewater Wine Co., 401-739-7744 flavors of blueberry, cedar, and 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, mint. Lamb stew. $$ 4% Cabernet Franc Juniper Crossing 2005 Margaret River Wines LLC, Aromas and flavors of bright black cherry and cassis Big and ripe aromas and flavors 704-821-6853 with notes of olive and sage; firm structure. Roast of blackberry and white pepper; chicken with herbs.  $$ prominent tannins with a drying Watershed 2004 Foster’s Wine Estates, 800-255-9966 finish. Steak au poivre. $$ Big aromas and flavors of black Vintage New World, 866-903-5356 bramble fruit, cassis, smoke, and Vasse Felix 2004 Heytesbury black pepper; full bodied with 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Shiraz Juniper Estate 2002 a long berry finish packed with Dense and concentrated with flavors of bright cherry, Ripe black fruit with notes of dark black fruit and spice. Impressive. dark chocolate, and spice; drying tannins on the chocolate and cedar; smooth, Venison.  $$ finish. Grilled steak. $$$$ supple finish. Barbecued ribs. America Uncorked, 415-775-2656 Negociants USA, 707-259-0993  $$$ Vintage New World, 866-903-5356 Wildberry Estate 2005 Muscular with aromas and flavors of blackberry and white pepper; It might seem counterintuitive that a shows very firm tannins. Grilled region known for Cabernet Sauvignon would hamburger.  $ Southern Starz, 866-57-STARZ “also grow excellent Chardonnay, but that’s the case in Margaret River.” —Laurie Daniel

74 SANTÉ march / april.2009
buy and serve youngest  fully mature,  can serve now, but will can serve now, but will vintage available serve now hold for some time improve with age ::wine review ::

Woody Nook 2004 cabernet-based Thompson Estate 2003 Watershed 2005 Awakening Bright aromas and flavors of blends Cabernet Merlot 86.87% Cabernet Sauvignon, blackberry with hints of anise, 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.13% other white pepper, and roasted co!ee. Cape Mentelle 2005 Cabernet 20% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc Brambly red and black fruit on Grilled lamb chops.  $$ Merlot Concentrated flavors of bright the palate with notes of co!ee Margaret River Wines LLC, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, black cherry, cedar, and celery and eucalyptus. Full bodied and 704-821-6853 40% Merlot seed; trace of bitterness in the dense with savory notes on the Lively and concentrated with finish. Veal chops.  $$ moderately long finish. Grilled cabernet sauvignon flavors of black currant and hints Vino Tech LLC, 908-832-1000 meats.  $$ All wines are 100% Cabernet of mint and anise. Rack of lamb. America Uncorked, LLC, Sauvignon.  $$ 415-775-2656 Moët Hennessy, 212-251-8200 Xanadu 2005 Clairault 2005 Estate 85.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot 6% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, Dense, concentrated, and 1% Cabernet Franc complex, with aromas and flavors Juicy flavors of black cherry with of black fruit, bay leaf, and savory a subtle note of anise; still fairly Vasse Felix 2004 spice. Full bodied, thick, and tight and tannic. Grilled steak. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, smooth, with a long, rich berry $$$$ 4% Malbec, 2% Merlot finish. Braised ribs. $$ Howard Park 2006 Leston Gia Cellars, 203-729-0103 Bright aromas and flavors of Rathbone Wine Group, Dense and concentrated cherry, cedar, and anise; drying 972-322-2699 bright cherry fruit with notes Leeuwin Estate 2002 Art Series tannins on the long finish. Grilled of eucalyptus; tightly wound 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, beef tri-tip. $$$ other red and structure with present tannins. 14% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec Negociants USA, 707-259-0993 red blends Lamb, venison. $$$ Ripe, concentrated flavors of Bluewater Wine Co., 401-739-7744 black cherry and black currant Vasse River 2004 Cullen 2006 Mangan with a note of anise; fine tannins. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, 36% Petit Verdot, Juniper Estate 2003 Beef braised in red wine. 25% Merlot 14% Malbec Aromas and flavors of ripe black $$$$ Dark and dense with aromas and Aromas and flavors of dense cherry and a hint of eucalyptus Old Bridge Cellars, 707-258-9552 flavors of ripe black cherry, plum, black cherry and cassis, with with firm tannins. Leg of lamb. anise, and hard spices with present herbal notes of black olive and  $$$ Merops 2005 Ornatus tannins in the finish. Grilled beef, dried sage; firm tannins. Chicken Vintage New World, 866-903-5356 74% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot, such as tri-tip. $$ braised in red wine. $$$$ 11% Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Wines LLC, Old Bridge Cellars, 707-258-9552 Ringbolt 2006 Bright cherry aromas and flavors 704-821-6853 Bright flavors of cherry and cassis, with notes of olive and anise; Flinders Bay 2003 Mayflower accented by cedar and mint; firm tannins develop on the palate. Watershed 2004 Cabernet 60% Malbec, 40% Merlot tannins. Grilled lamb burgers. Roast chicken.  $$ Merlot Rich black cherry and plum on the  $$ Margaret River Wines LLC, 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, palate with some earthy notes and Negociants USA, 707-259-0993 704-821-6853 27% Merlot ripe tannins. Grilled lamb chops. Full bodied with bright aromas $$ Thompson Estate 2003 and flavors of red fruit, blackberry, The Australian Premium Wine 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, and iron; multitextured with a Collection, 800-485-5753 7.5% Merlot, 7.5% Cabernet Franc long, elegant red currant finish. Juicy aromas and flavors of red New York strip steak.  $$ cherry, anise, and spice; persistent America Uncorked, LLC, acid and firm but approachable 415-775-2656 tannins. Braised short ribs. $$$ Vino Tech LLC, 908-832-1000

 indicates an excellent indicates Santé $ $120 or less $$$ $201–$300 march / april.2009 SANTÉ 75 by-the-glass choice Gold Star $$ $121–$200 $$$$ $301 or more california italian California Classico varietals Italian red-grape varieties, originally planted by immigrants Reviewed by the Santé tasting panel. between 1850 and 1910, are making a comeback, following in the current culinary popularity of all things Italian. Classic and sangiovese Eberle 2006 / Paso Robles lesser-known Italian grape varieties are showing up on reputable All wines are 100% Sangiovese, Zesty, slightly tart aromas and restaurants’ wine lists as local additions to the increasingly costly except where noted. flavors of cranberry and sour (environmentally as well as monetarily) imported wines. With cherry with plenty of spice and beautiful fruit and generous expression of the varietals, there is good acidity; full bodied with no reason to ignore these charming and food-friendly wines. a long, spicy, slightly hot finish. Manicotti. $$ Eberle Winery, 805-238-9607 Girasole Vineyards 2006 / other red and Mendocino County red blends Fruit-forward with aromas and flavors of fresh, bright red cherry Benessere 2006 Sorridente / and plum and a rustic note; Napa Valley Barra of Mendocino 2005 / medium bodied with a long, sweet 51% Merlot, 25% Aglianico, Mendocino County berry finish. Turkey Milanese.  $ 24% Cabernet Sauvignon Pleasing and approachable with Barra of Mendocino, 707-485-8771 Interesting and slightly exotic aromas and flavors of perfectly Ferrari-Carano 2007 Siena / with aromas and flavors of plum, ripe red berry fruit, fennel, and Sonoma County Monte Volpe 2005 / iron, cherry, and sweet licorice; licorice; medium bodied with 72% Sangiovese, 22% Malbec, Mendocino County beautiful, well-integrated fruit with good acidity and a long, sweet 4% Merlot, 2% Tannat Lovely ripe black cherry fruit, hints of baking spice and sweet berry finish. Beef stir-fry.  $$ Opulent aromas and flavors of prune, and raspberry; full bodied licorice on the finish. Grilled lamb. Barra of Mendocino, cherry, cranberry, licorice, and with lively, sweet berry fruit and  $$$$ 707-485-8771 floral hints of lily; medium to full ripe grapefruit notes on the finish. BenessereVineyards, bodied with great depth; smooth Fava beans with pancetta.  $$ 707-963-5853 x101 Ca’ del Solo 2006 / San Benito with good acidity on the long Graziano Family of Wines, County finish. Braised beef with fennel. 707-485-9463 Benessere 2005 Phenomenon / 77% Sangiovese, 16% Freisa,  $$$ Napa Valley 6% Syrah, 1% Grenache Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Ortman 2006 / Paso Robles 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, Bold, ripe aromas and flavors of Winery, 707-433-6700 Slightly tart aromas and flavors of 27% Sangiovese, 14% Merlot, red berry fruit and licorice; mouth- red cherry, cranberry, and brewed 12% Syrah coating with good complexity and Flora Springs 2007 / black tea; medium bodied with Cabernet dominates in this blend pleasing tart acidity on the finish. Napa Valley excellent balance and a mouth- with classic aromas and flavors Stu!ed flank steak.  $ Fruit-forward with aromas and watering finish of tangy red berry of cassis and plum, but it is well Bonny Doon Vineyard, flavors of ripe cherry, raspberry, fruit. Braised pork shoulder.  $$ rounded by the other varietals; full 831-425-3625 and sweet red licorice. Full bodied Ortman Family Vineyards, bodied and smooth with a hint of and nicely balanced with good 805-473-9463 spicy pepper on the long finish. Chance Creek Vineyards 2005 / depth and complexity, appetizing Veal shank.  $$$$ Redwood Valley tannins, and a long finish. Pasta Silverado Vineyards 2006 / BenessereVineyards, 80% Sangiovese, 16% Petite Sirah, Bolognese.  $$ Napa Valley 707-963-5853 x101 4% Viognier Flora Springs Winery & Vineyards, 94% Sangiovese, 6% Cabernet Refined with well-integrated 707-963-5711 Sauvignon aromas and flavors of cherry, Dense, rich aromas and flavors of cranberry, and fennel; balanced black cherry, blackberry, cranberry, with a long red berry finish. Meat and red currant; full bodied with a lasagna.  $$ moderately long, balanced finish. Bock Wine and Spirits, Veal piccata.  $$$ 415-834-9675 Wilson Daniels Ltd., 707-963-9661

76 SANTÉ march / april.2009
buy and serve youngest  fully mature,  can serve now, but will can serve now, but will vintage available serve now hold for some time improve with age ::wine review ::

Brutocao 2007 Dolcetto Estate– Brutocao 2006 Quadriga– Flora Springs 2007 Poggio del Terra d’Oro 2006 Barbera / Feliz Vineyard / Mendocino Hopland Ranches / Mendocino Papa / Napa Valley Amador County County County 75% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, 100% Barbera 100% Dolcetto 35% Sangiovese, 31% Primitivo, 6% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot Intense, cooked nose of black Light to medium bodied with 18% Barbera, 16% Dolcetto Lush plum, Bing cherry, anise, and cherry and plum with deep floral aromas and flavors of wet wood Rich aromas and flavors of plum, black currant with hints of cola undertones; meaty flavors of giving way to heady bright currant, and oak; full bodied with and toasty oak. Full bodied, big, raspberry and red fruit. Smooth, strawberry, raspberry, and cherry a zesty “bite,” nice fruit, and a long and bold with a sweet berry fruit full, and round on the palate with with light floral notes; good finish. Beef cannelloni.  $$$ finish. Braised lamb.  $$$ a long, balanced finish of sweet structure with tangy, lively acidity Brutocao Cellars, 707-744-1066 Flora Springs Winery & Vineyards, and sour red fruit and hints of on the long red berry finish. Veal 707-963-5711 pepper. Tuna with capers and piccata.  $$ Ca’ del Solo 2006 Dolcetto olives.  $$ Brutocao Cellars, 707-744-1066 Estate Vineyard / Monterey Mandolina 2006 Freisa / Santa Trinchero Family Estates, County Barbara County 707-963-3104 Brutocao 2006 Barbera Estate– 100% Dolcetto 100% Freisa Feliz Vineyard / Mendocino Medium bodied with aromas and Light to medium bodied with Terra d’Oro 2006 Forte / Napa County flavors of black cherry, raspberry, lively acidity; aromas begin with and Amador Counties 100% Barbera and light spice; soft mouth-feel earthy wet wood and then lead to 65% Sangiovese, 35% Cabernet Robust, juicy aromas and flavors with a medium finish. Grilled brilliant notes of strawberry, violet, Sauvignon of Bing cherry, raspberry, notes of burgers.  $$ and cranberry. Lots of character Aromas and flavors of jammy iron, and hints of oaky cedar on Bonny Doon Vineyard, in the lingering finish. Eggplant red berry fruit, ripe plum, baking the midpalate; medium bodied 831-425-3625 rollatini.  $$ spice, and licorice; full bodied with with good balance. Roast duck. Lucas & Lewellen, 888-777-6663 mouth-coating tannins and some  $$ Ca’ del Solo 2005 Nebbiolo heat on the straightforward finish. Brutocao Cellars, 707-744-1066 Estate Vineyard / Monterey Monte Volpe 2006 Primo Deluxe hamburger with blue County Rosso / Mendocino County cheese.  $$$ Brutocao 2006 Primitivo 100% Nebbiolo Barbera, Carignan, Dolcetto, Trinchero Family Estates, Estate–Contento Vineyard / Deep aromas and flavors of dark Nebbiolo, Negroamaro, Zinfandel 707-963-3104 Mendocino County cherry, cedar, spice, and leather; Approachable and pleasant with 100% Primitivo present tannins soften quickly and sweet red berry fruit and some Bold and focused with aromas and show good potential for aging; minerality; full bodied with tangy, flavors of earth, spicy black fruit, medium bodied with a long, spicy lively fruit on the finish. Spaghetti and co!ee; full bodied and plush finish. Barbecued shrimp. and meatballs.  $ with good complexity and a soft,  $$$ Graziano Family of Wines, smooth finish. Sausage pizza.  $$ Bonny Doon Vineyard, 707-485-9463 Brutocao Cellars, 707-744-1066 831-425-3625

When A16 opened five years ago, I want ed to showcase California Italian wines “alongside the Southern Italian selections that are the main focus of our wine list. I truly believe that California Italian wines are better today than they ever have been.” —Shelley Lindgren, sommelier and co-owner of A16 and SPQR

 indicates an excellent indicates Santé $ $120 or less $$$ $201–$300 march / april.2009 SANTÉ 77 by-the-glass choice Gold Star $$ $121–$200 $$$$ $301 or more santé selections Reviewed by the Santé tasting panel.

WHITE Mirassou 2007 / California albariño Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc All wines are 100% Albariño. Light bodied with aromas and Nobilo 2008 Icon / flavors of fresh-picked peach and Marlborough, New Zealand Martin Codax 2007 / Rías citrus; clean and balanced with Geyser Peak 2008 Block Lively with zesty lemon, big acids, Baixas, Spain notes of lemon-lime on the finish. Collection River Ranches / and a hint of e!ervescence; light Very aromatic with bold lemon Pasta Alfredo. $ Russian River Valley, California bodied with a crisp finish. Aperitif and floral notes; light bodied with E. & J. Gallo, 866-949-4637 99% Sauvignon Blanc, with a fruit plate.
$$ a short, soft citrus finish. Broiled 1% Viognier VineOne, 415-912-3701 cod.
$ sauvignon blanc Very fragrant and aromatic, with E. & J. Gallo, 866-949-4637 All wines are 100% Sauvignon complex aromas and flavors of Blanc, except where noted. tart honeydew, citrus, and orange Salneval 2007 / Rías Baixas, blossom; beautiful balanced Spain Dancing Bull 2007 / California acidity on a long, clean, persistent A crisp, light bouquet of lemon Medium bodied with aromas finish. Ceviche.  $$ with some steeliness and distant and flavors of ripe tangerine and W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., e!ervescence. Light bodied with grapefruit; clean finish. Fruit salad. 914-251-9463 a smooth, short finish. Serve as an
$ aperitif with soft cheese.
$ E. & J. Gallo, 866-949-4637 CIV USA, 800-669-1972 Rancho Zabaco 2007 / Russian River Valley, California Vionta 2007 / Rías Baixas, Spain 97% Sauvignon Blanc, 3% Sémillon Aromas and flavors of fresh citrus On the nose, orange peel, ripe and tart green apple; light bodied melon, and floral notes; creamy with a crisp, soft mouth-feel; brief, and nutty on the palate with refreshing finish. Sole almondine. citrusy acidity on the finish.
$$ Geyser Peak 2007 / Alexander Grilled scallops.
$$ Freixenet USA, 707-996-7256 Valley, California E. & J. Gallo, 866-949-4637 100% Sauvignon Blanc pinot gris/grigio French Maid 2007 / Languedoc- Crisp and vibrant with aromas and viognier Roussillon, France flavors of lime, green pear, and All wines are 100% Viognier, Helfrich 2007 / Alsace, France Subtle on the nose, but simple, gooseberry and notes of green except where noted. 100% Pinot Grigio balanced, and pleasant on the herbs; very balanced with hints of Medium bodied with crisp, clean palate with flavors of grass and fresh corn and zesty citrus on the Adelaida 2007 Glenrose aromas and flavors of apple and melon; creamy mouth-feel finish. Steamed shrimp.
$ Vineyard / Paso Robles, spice; full, pleasant mouth-feel and low acidity. A good intro W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., California with good balance. Grilled sesame Sauvignon Blanc. Chilled avocado 914-251-9463 Pleasant and complex aromas and chicken. $ and shrimp salad. 
$ flavors of pear, honey, and spice; Underdog Wine Merchants, White Rocket Wine Co., Monkey Bay 2008 / full bodied with medium tannins 925-456-2500 707-254-4815 Marlborough, New Zealand and a long, lingering finish. Baked Fruit-forward with aromas and stu!ed lobster.  $$$ flavors of gooseberry, honeydew, Adelaida Cellars, 800-676-1232 lime, and chalk. Easy drinking with balanced acidity and a long, piney finish. Fillet of sole with sorrel sauce. 
$ VineOne, 415-912-3701

78 SANTÉ march / april.2009
buy and serve youngest  fully mature,  can serve now, but will can serve now, but will vintage available serve now hold for some time improve with age ::wine review ::

with well-integrated oak and great Windmill 2007 / Lodi, California Deakin Estate 2008 Moscato / acidity on the finish. Very food Light to medium bodied with Victoria, Australia friendly: halibut.  $$ aromas of melon and oak; shows 100% Muscat Gordo Blanco W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., soft legs in the glass; refreshing Lightly e!ervescent with a foxy 914-251-9463 with a lively finish. Pasta with grapiness and aromas and flavors Alfredo sauce.  $ of Bartlett pear, apple blossom, Macari 2008 Early Wine / North Michael David Winery, and nutmeg; lightly honeyed but Koehler 2007 / Santa Ynez Fork of Long Island, New York 209-368-7384 finishes with a hint of tartness. Valley, California Light bodied with aromas and Hard sheep’s milk cheese.
$ Elegant aromas of vanilla, oak, flavors of green apple and citrus; other white and Freixenet USA, 707-996-7256 and spice; medium to full bodied very fresh and crisp with a short white blends with a creamy, buttery mouth-feel finish. Shrimp cocktail. 
$$ Helfrich 2007 Gewürztraminer / and clean, refreshing finish; well Macari Vineyards, 631-298-0100 Boutari 2007 Moschofilero / Alsace, France balanced. Grilled striped bass. Mantinia, Greece 100% Gewürztraminer  $$ 100% Moschofilero Floral aromas of honeysuckle, rose Koehler Winery, 805-693-8384 Exotic nose of lime, sandalwood, petal, peach, and lemon curd, and and honey; citrus flavors of flavors of peach, apricot, mango, hazelnut and pear with mineral pear, and a touch of honey; overtones. Light bodied with medium bodied with balanced a tart, clean finish. Orzo with acidity. Chicken and cashew stir- MontGras 2007 Reserva / shrimp, dill, and feta.
$$ fry.  $ Colchagua Valley, Chile Terlato Wines International, Underdog Wine Merchants, Light to medium bodied with crisp 847-604-8900 925-456-2500 aromas and flavors of citrus and Loredona 2007 / Lodi, vanilla with a small oak presence; Brassfield Estate 2007 Serenity / Katogi 2006 Traminer / California pleasant mouth-feel with a brief High Valley, California Ioannina, Greece 95% Viognier, 5% Colombard but smooth finish. Fillet of sole. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, 100% Traminer Fruit-forward with tangy  $ Gewürztraminer, Sémillon Spice, lemon, grape leaf, and grapefruit aromas and flavors; Palm Bay International, Aromas of apple, peach, melon, orange peel on the nose; medium light bodied with a brief, enjoyable 800-872-5622 papaya, and a touch of honey with bodied with flinty mineral notes, finish. Fruit and cheese platter.
$ flavors of tangerine, pear, apple ripe pear, and anise on the palate DFV Wines, 707-265-1700 Sbragia 2006 Gamble Ranch / seed, and hints of grapefruit; continuing through to the finish. Napa Valley, California medium bodied with good acidity Baked sea bass with fennel, dill, chardonnay Medium to full bodied with on the finish and pleasing mineral and olives.
$$ All wines are 100% Chardonnay. aromas of citrus, spice, and oak. notes. Shrimp scampi.  $ Hellas Import Limited, Full and bold in the mouth with Brassfield Estate Winery, 617-926-9292 a long, pleasing finish. Steamed 707-998-1895 lobster.  $$$$ Sebeka 2008 Steen / Western Sbragia Family Vineyards, Curtis 2007 / Santa Barbara Cape, South Africa 707-473-2992 County, California 100% Chenin Blanc 55% Viognier, 27% Roussanne, A spicy, tropical nose with notes Scott Family Estate 2007 / 18% Marsanne of lime and green pepper; fruit- Arroyo Seco, California Medium bodied with aromas of forward on the palate with flavors Geyser Peak 2007 Block Medium to full bodied with honey, lime, tropical fruit, and of kumquat, citrus, and pepper Collection Water Bend / tropical aromas and flavors a touch of fennel; flavors of with a slight saltiness. Light Sonoma Valley, California of melon, pear, and oak; very pear, apricot, citrus, vanilla, and bodied with a tart finish. Tilapia Creamy, yet retaining perfect smooth, enjoyable, and versatile. minerals; soft tannins on the finish. with mango chutney.
$ balance with aromas and flavors Swordfish.  $$ Grilled trout.  $$ E. & J. Gallo, 866-949-4637 of ripe pear and hints of toast and Rutherford Wine Company, Curtis Winery, 805-686-8999 butterscotch; medium bodied 707-963-5251

 indicates an excellent indicates Santé $ $120 or less $$$ $201–$300 march / april.2009 SANTÉ 79 by-the-glass choice Gold Star $$ $121–$200 $$$$ $301 or more Spice Route 2007 Chenin Blanc / RED Wild Horse 2006 Unbridled / Western Cape, South Africa pinot noir Santa Barbara County, 100% Chenin Blanc All wines are 100% Pinot Noir. California Lavender, yellow bell pepper, Rich violet in color with pleasant nutmeg, and vanilla on the nose; Adelaida 2006 HMR Estate / aromas of spice and black currant; smoky notes on the palate with Paso Robles, California medium bodied with a well- flavors of almond, honey, plum, Spicy aromas of rich earth, rounded, balanced mouth-feel and chamomile. Medium bodied caramel, and licorice. Fruit- and medium tannins adding to a with a rich finish. Sheep’s cheese forward flavors of cherry with Ortman 2006 / Willamette full finish. Spare ribs.  $$$ with chilled ratatouille.
$$ notes of vanilla and chocolate; Valley, Oregon Icon Estates, 707-963-7111 Vineyard Brands, 205-980-8802 medium bodied with a long, warm Bright, fresh cherry and berry finish. Duck confit.  $$$ aromas with notes of lavender Woollaston Estates 2006 / Adelaida Cellars, 800-676-1232 and frankincense; flavors of rich, Nelson, New Zealand ripe Bing cherry with plum, clove, Youthful with a peppery nose Angeline 2007 / Sonoma and and vanilla. Medium bodied with and hints of toast, jasmine, Mendocino Counties, California a long finish. Slow-roasted pork and mustard seed; flavors of Silky on the palate with aromas shoulder with new potatoes. dried cherry with lavender and and flavors of lively red berry fruit,  $$$ coriander. Roast duck.  $$$ Umberto Fiore 2008 Moscato baking spice, and a hint of cola; Ortman Family Vineyards, The San Francisco Wine Exchange, d’Asti / Piedmont, Italy crisp, bright berry finish. Chicken 805-473-WINE 415-546-0484 100% Moscato Bianco breast.  $$ A whimsical bouquet of delicate Martin Ray Winery, 707-823-2404 Ponzi 2007 Tavola / Willamette X Winery 2007 / Carneros, honeysuckle, white peach, and Valley, Oregon California ripe pear; tiny, soft bubbles are Bogle 2006 / Russian River Aromas of co!ee with fruit- Nose of raspberry, vanilla, orange lively and refreshing. Finishes Valley, California forward notes of ripe cassis and rind, smoke, sugar, and a bit of clean and lightly sweet with flavors Light bodied with aromas and strawberry; flavors of black plum stalk; red plum fruit on the palate of pear and passion fruit. Citrus flavors of blackberry, cherry, and quince with some spice. with jasmine tea and dried cherry. olive oil cake.
$ and spice. Light tannins are well Medium bodied with a long finish Medium bodied with a long finish AV Brands, 410-884-9463 balanced and lead to an elegant and good balance of fruit with a and some heat. Roasted quail with finish. Veal scallopini. slightly tart lift at the end. Wood- dried cherry and sage.  $$  $$ grilled pork with apples and X Winery, 707-204-9522 Bogle Vineyards, 916-744-1139 currants.  $$ Wilson Daniels Ltd., 707-963-9661 sangiovese

DaVinci 2006 Chianti / Tuscany, Italy 90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot Youthful with present tannins and Vergelegen 2006 / Stellenbosch, aromas and flavors of red cherry, South Africa Bouchaine 2006 Estate strawberry, and spice; medium 71% Sémillon, 29% Sauvignon Vineyard / Carneros, California bodied with a piquant raspberry Blanc Fruit-forward aromas and flavors finish. Pizza.  $$ Aromas of lime, mineral, stalk, of black currant and cherry; Sanctuary 2006 Bien Nacido E. & J. Gallo, 866-949-4637 lavender, and honey; ripe notes medium bodied with a little Vineyard / Santa Maria Valley, of citrus and stone fruit on the spiciness on the palate and California palate along with licorice, almond, noticeable tannins. Grilled quail. Bright and focused with a and wood. Medium bodied with  $$$ (6 bottles) bouquet of red berry fruit, cola, a long, balanced, tart finish. Bouchaine Vineyards & Winery, and allspice; finishes lively with red Seafood stew. 
$$ 800-424-1174 berry fruit. Halibut.  $$ 57 Main Street Imports, (6 bottles) 516-357-2070 Brown-Forman, 707-237-3461

80 SANTÉ march / april.2009
buy and serve youngest  fully mature,  can serve now, but will can serve now, but will vintage available serve now hold for some time improve with age ::wine review ::

Sobon Estate 2006 ReZerve flavors. Full bodied, structured, Paul’s Vineyard / Amador and balanced with a little heat on County, California the long finish. Braised ribs. 81% Zinfandel, 18% Primitivo,  $$$$ 1% Petite Sirah Glenrose Vineyard, 800-676-1232 Medium bodied with aromas and flavors of raspberry, orange peel, and a touch of nutmeg; good Tenuta Belguardo (Mazzei) Brazin 2006 Old Vine / acidity and some spice on the 2006 Morellino di Scansano Lodi, California finish. Pasta dishes.  $$ Bronzone / Tuscany, Italy 94% Zinfandel, 6% Petite Sirah Sobon Estate, 209-245-4455 90% Sangiovese, 10% Alicante Fruit-forward with notes of red Nero cherry, cassis, fresh cranberry, petite sirah Austin Hope 2004 Hope Family A classic old-world wine with and licorice. Full bodied and very Vineyard / Paso Robles pleasant fruit and hints of structured with youthful tannins Artezin 2006 / Mendocino Bright note of black plum with a tarragon. Full bodied with present and a long, bright fruit finish. County, California concentrated perfume of juicy but smooth tannins; balanced Barbecued ribs.  $$ 87% Petite Sirah, 13% Zinfandel black fruit. Medium to full bodied and well constructed. Seared filet DFV Wines, 707-265-1700 Medium to full bodied with with velvety, robust black fruit mignon.  $ (6 bottles) aromas of spice, cassis, and flavors and a long finish. Veal with Palm Bay International, Kenwood 2006 Jack London blackberry; full on the palate with blueberries and rosemary. $$ 800-872-5622 Vineyard / Sonoma County, a smooth, tingling, long-lasting Austin Hope Winery, California finish. Rack of lamb.  $$ 805-227-2004 zinfandel A prolific bouquet of red fruit with The Hess Collection Winery, All wines are 100% Zinfandel, aromas and flavors of red berry, 707-255-1144 except where noted. pomegranate, and raspberry and hints of candy cane, caramel, Adelaida 2006 / Paso Robles, and a touch of vanilla; medium California bodied with soft tannins and a hint Aromas of red berry, cherry, of red bell pepper on the finish. Genesis by Hogue 2006 / allspice, and vanilla with flavors of Meat loaf with roasted winter Columbia Valley, Washington raspberry, black cherry, and sweet vegetables.  $ 98% Syrah, 1% Cabernet Franc, oak; medium bodied with a softly Heck Estates, 707-824-7000 Vina Robles 2006 / Paso Robles, 1% Malbec tannic finish. Roasted rack of California Bright aromas of blackberry lamb.  $$$ Shannon Ridge 2007 / Lake 100% Petite Sirah and white pepper; soft and Adelaida Cellars, 800-676-1232 County, California Full bodied with aromas of fruit-forward on the palate with 76% Zinfandel, 17% Cabernet blackberry, black cherry, and an black cherry, blueberry, French Artezin 2006 / Dry Creek Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah abundance of spice. Balanced with roast co!ee, and toast. Tannins Valley, California Full bodied with aromas and firm tannins that lead to a long are young but pleasant with an 88% Zinfandel, 11% Petite Sirah, flavors of dark cherry, licorice, aftertaste. Grilled venison. enjoyable slight green twig finish. 1% Carignan black pepper, and spice; very  $$$ Grilled tuna steaks. $ Multilayered aromas and flavors pleasant from start to finish with a Vina Robles, 805-227-4812 VineOne, 415-912-3701 of blackberry, dark cherry, black long, balanced finish. Spicy beef. pepper, cedar, and menthol. Full  $$ syrah/shiraz JC Cellars 2005 Ventana bodied and smooth with a long, Shannon Ridge, 707-998-9656 All wines are 100% Syrah/Shiraz, Vineyards / Arroyo Seco, big fruit finish. Grilled meat. except where noted. California $$ Complex with aromas and flavors The Hess Collection Winery, Adelaida Cellars 2005 Glenrose of cherry, cassis, huckleberry, and 707-255-1144 Reserve / Paso Robles, fig with some savory, herbal notes California and smoky undertones; finish of Spicy nose of licorice, leather, spice box and tea leaf. Moroccan and sandalwood; bold, deep, rich tagine of lamb.  $$$ fruit with concentrated Port-like JC Cellars, 510-465-5900

 indicates an excellent indicates Santé $ $120 or less $$$ $201–$300 march / april.2009 SANTÉ 81 by-the-glass choice Gold Star $$ $121–$200 $$$$ $301 or more Olsen Estates 2006 / Columbia fruit; finishes long and clean with Summers 2006 Reserve / Eberle 2003 Reserve / Paso Valley, Washington hints of clove. A classic Merlot. Knights Valley, California Robles, California Full bodied with aromas and Roast duck.  $$ 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Full bodied with rich, full flavors flavors of plum, cherry, smoky Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Sauvignon, 5% Syrah of dark cherry; fruit-forward with meat, and white pepper; 425-488-1133 Full bodied with aromas of black present tannins and a long finish. youthful but balanced with good plum and flavors of dark fruit; soft Pasta with marinara sauce. complexity and pleasing savory tannins with a long, fruit-forward  $$$$ dried herb notes on the long finish. Roast goose. $$$ Eberle Winery, 805-238-9607 finish. Grilled lamb kebabs. Summers Estate Wines,  $$$$ 707-942-5508 Olsen Estates, 509-786-7007 cabernet sauvignon Six Masters 2004 / Hunter All wines are 100% Cabernet Valley, Australia Sauvignon, except where noted. Spicy aromas of mint, tobacco, vanilla, and coriander on the nose; Beringer 2006 / Knights Valley, dried fig on the palate with spiced Raymond Vineyards 2005 California strawberry and caramel. Medium Reserve / Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, bodied with a long, balanced California Cabernet Franc finish with some heat. Lamb 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Pleasing aromas and flavors of Francis Ford Coppola 2006 gyros.  $$ Sauvignon licorice, Bing cherry, and some Director’s Cut Collection / America Uncorked, 415-775-2656 Medium bodied with a bouquet spice; full bodied with a long, rich Alexander Valley, California of dark cherry, black plum, and finish. Grilled tuna.  $$$ Penetrating aromas of plum, black Sonoma Vineyards 2007 / currant; lingering, balanced finish. Foster’s Wine Estates Americas, fruit, spice, and black pepper. Full Sonoma County, California Grilled salmon.  $$$ 707-259-4500 bodied with present tannins and a Aromas of white pepper and Raymond Vineyards, 707-963-3141 long, pleasing, bright fruit finish. green bell pepper followed by Clos LaChance 2005 Estate / Grilled swordfish.  $$ dried fruit; nice chewy texture with Shafer 2006 / Napa Valley, Central Coast, California Francis Ford Coppola Presents, flavors of blueberry, cassis, and California Aromas of mint with chocolate, 707-251-3200 tea leaf; pleasantly peppery finish. 76% Merlot, 17% Cabernet cream, ripe currant, apple, and Korean braised beef short ribs. Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc brown sugar; rich Bing cherry  $ Very big and balanced; classic flavors with tobacco, spice, vanilla, Sonoma Vineyards, 866-SVWINES Bordeaux-style Merlot; extremely and licorice. A soft yet long and long, balanced finish. Steak, prime balanced finish. Pan-seared sirloin Truchard 2005 Estate / rib.  $$$$ of lamb.  $$$ Carneros, California Shafer Vineyards, 707-944-2877 Clos LaChance, 800-ITS-WINE Spicy nose with aromas of leather and mint and a ripe palate of Souverain 2006 / Alexander Dusted Valley 2006 / Columbia cherry and tobacco. Medium Valley, California Valley, Washington Geyser Peak 2005 / Alexander bodied with a long finish. Sweet 89% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Medium bodied with focused Valley, California pork sausage.  $$$ Sauvignon, 3% Malbec aromas and flavors of blackberry, 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Truchard Vineyards, 707-253-7153 Opens big but softens with time; black plum, leather, and vanilla; Shiraz, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Merlot ripe cherry aromas and flavors smooth and easy drinking with a Fruit-forward aromas and merlot show characteristics similar to little heat on the long finish. Sweet flavors of cherry, raspberry, a Right Bank Bordeaux; long, sausage and peppers.  $$$ and soft plum; medium bodied Columbia Crest 2005 Reserve / balanced finish. Hanger steak. Dusted Valley Vintners, and smooth with just enough Columbia Valley, Washington 
$$ 509-525-1337 structure; rich and restrained. 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc Souverain, 707-894-2541 Roast duck.  $$ Lush, bright aromas and flavors W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., of Bing cherry, plum, mocha, and 914-251-9463 some savory herbal notes; nicely balanced with soft yet structured

82 SANTÉ march / april.2009
buy and serve youngest  fully mature,  can serve now, but will can serve now, but will vintage available serve now hold for some time improve with age ::wine review ::

Montevina 2006 / California bordeaux blends Medium bodied with aromas and flavors of black cherry, red cherry, Columbia Crest 2005 Walter and black currant; soft tannins Clore Private Reserve / and nicely balanced acidity with Columbia Valley, Washington a medium finish. Braised beef 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, cheeks with potato gnocchi. 
$ 45% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc Montevina Winery, 209-245-6942 Waterstone 2005 / Napa Valley, Rich aromas and flavors of black California plum, cassis, earthy iron notes, Hall 2005 Bergfeld / St. Helena, Peter Lehmann 2006 / Barossa 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, and some vanilla oak; full bodied, California Valley, Australia 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, pleasing, and harmonious with 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, Rich and bold with aromas and 3% Petit Verdot bright fruit and good acidity on 7% Merlot, 1% Malbec, 1% Petit flavors of cassis, blackberry, Ripe nose of smoke, cedar, vanilla, the finish; classic and elegant. Pot Verdot raspberry, and some pleasing lingonberry, and sweet cigar; fruit- au feu.  $$$ Fragrant toasty notes on the “green” notes; full bodied with forward flavors of Bing cherry and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, nose with hints of vanilla; a fine, good structure and hints of mocha spice. Full bodied with soft tannins 425-488-1133 structured palate of layered, on the long finish. Meat loaf and and a long finish with some heat. ripe fruit; medium bodied with a mashed potatoes.  $$ Beef with potatoes, shallots, and lingering finish. Filet mignon. The Hess Collection, 707-255-1144 rosemary.  $$$  $$$$ Waterstone, 415-978-9909 Hall Wines, 707-967-2626 Sbragia 2005 Monte Rosso / Sonoma Valley, California Louis M. Martini 2006 / Sonoma Rich aromas and flavors of black County, California cherry, pepper, cassis, leather, and 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, blackberry. Full bodied and very 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, smooth with a long finish of cedar. 1% Merlot, 1% Tannat Finest cuts of meat. $$$$ Geyser Peak 2004 Meritage Aromas of vanilla, quince, cherry, Sbragia Family Vineyards, Reserve Alexandre / Alexander and leather; ripe raspberry flavors 707-473-2992 Valley, California of currant, black tea, and dried fig. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, Medium bodied with a brief finish. Shafer 2004 Hillside Select / 25% Merlot, 19% Malbec, 4% Petit Smoked beef brisket.
$$ Stage Leap District, California X Winery 2006 / Napa Valley, Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc E. & J. Gallo, 866-949-4637 Massively extracted with low California Bright aromas and flavors of acidity; dense and oaky with 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, Bing cherry, raspberry, and cassis; flavors of black currant, blackberry 10% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot medium to full bodied; smooth, jam, cocoa, clove, and vanilla; Full bodied and deeply extracted rich, and elegant with good long finish. Grilled porterhouse with aromas and flavors of black complexity; well balanced, with steak with Marchand du Vin. currant, black cherry, licorice, notes of plum on the finish. Aged $ and clove; long finish. Braised sheep’s milk cheeses.  $$$$ Shafer Vineyards, 707-944-2877 beef shoulder with aromatic W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., vegetables.  $$ 914-251-9463 Mercer Estates 2006 / Horse Solaire by Robert Mondavi X Winery, 707-204-9522 Heaven Hills, Washington 2006 / Central Coast, California Macari NV Sette / North Fork 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, of Long Island, New York 5% Merlot 8% Syrah, 3% Malbec, 2% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot Aromas and flavors of cassis 2% Petit Verdot Aromas and flavors of bright red and clove; full bodied with a Full bodied with very ripe red and fruit with floral notes of red rose toasty oaky presence, smooth black currant fruit, soft tannins, and strawberry; medium bodied, texture, and a long finish. Grilled and a medium finish. Grilled balanced, and delicious. Grilled porterhouse steak.  $$ steak.
$$ shrimp. $ Mercer Estates, 509-786-2097 VineOne, 415-912-3701 Macari Vineyards, 631-298-0100

 indicates an excellent indicates Santé $ $120 or less $$$ $201–$300 march / april.2009 SANTÉ 83 by-the-glass choice Gold Star $$ $121–$200 $$$$ $301 or more other red and and dried leaves. Balanced tannins red blends with a brief finish. Venison.  $$$ Bodegas La Purisima 2007 Old Eberle Winery, 805-238-9607 Hands Organic Monastrell / Yecla, Spain 100% Monastrell Earthy with aromas and flavors of washed-rind cheese, cherry, raspberry, and spice; medium Magito 2006 Highlands bodied, robust, and rustic with a Gordon Brothers 2003 Cabernet Blend / Sonoma long finish of tart red berry fruit Tradition / Columbia Valley, County, California and blue cheese. Jamón and Emiliana 2006 Novas / Washington 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, dates.  $ Colchagua Valley, Chile 47.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot Marquee Artisan Wines, 80% Carmenère, 20% Cabernet 47.6% Merlot, 4.8% Syrah Smoky with aromas and flavors 888-627-7833 Sauvignon Bright aromas and flavors of of blackberry jam, dried fig, and Medium to full bodied with red cherry, spice, cedar, leather, black pepper; medium bodied aromas of dark berry and spice. dried currants, and blueberry; full with mild tannins and some Well balanced and enjoyable with bodied with good concentration residual sugar on the long finish. medium tannins that make for an and a long finish. Delicious. Charcuterie. $$ outstanding, lingering finish. Ribs. Marinated grilled swordfish. Magito, 707-567-1521  $$ $$$$ Banfi Vintners, 516-626-9200 Gordon Brothers, 509-547-6331 Mount Veeder 2004 Reserve / Napa Valley, California 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 3% Malbec Buon Appetito 2007 Nero Cedar, mint, tobacco, and nutmeg d’Avola / IGT Sicily, Italy on the nose with flavors of dried 100% Nero d’Avola cherry, black tea, and almond on Full bodied and chewy with the palate; medium bodied with aromas and flavors of spice, dark some bitterness on the finish. cherry, cinnamon, and raspberry; Braised lamb shank.  $$$$ long, dense finish. Pasta with red Koehler 2006 Grenache / Santa Icon Estates, 707-963-7111 sauce.  $ Golden Kaan 2006 Pinotage / Ynez Valley, California AV Brands, 410-884-9463 Western Cape, South Africa 100% Grenache Stone Paddock 2007 Scarlet / 100% Pinotage A heady nose of ripe raspberry, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand Bright Bing cherry, spice, licorice, mustard seed, and thyme; fruit- 37% Merlot, 35% Cabernet and raspberry on the nose and forward palate of ripe wild cherry, Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, palate; medium to full bodied with vanilla, black plum, cranberry, 12% Malbec a delicious, balanced, fruit-forward nutmeg, and co!ee. Medium Bouquet of dried fruit, roasted finish. Grilled tuna. $ bodied and balanced. Grilled tomato, and tea leaf; jammy with Cecchetti Racke, 707-939-2298 hanger steak with chimichurri. hints of vanilla. Great tannic  $$$ structure and excellent balance; Koehler Winery, 805-693-8384 very expressive of the Cabernet Eberle 2006 Eberle/Steinbeck qualities. Lentils with foie gras. Vineyard / Paso Robles,  $ California Oceania Wine Group, 877-771-8773 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Syrah Aromas of plum, fig, vanilla, and wet tobacco; light, spicy body with hints of cola, fresh berries,

84 SANTÉ march / april.2009
buy and serve youngest  fully mature,  can serve now, but will can serve now, but will vintage available serve now hold for some time improve with age ::wine review ::

MAN Vintners 2007 Pinotage / Sebeka 2007 Cabernet- dessert Coastal South Africa Pinotage / Western Cape, 86% Pinotage, 12% Shiraz, South Africa 2% Viognier 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, Full bodied and dry with an old- 50% Pinotage world earthiness; aromas and Medium to full bodied with flavors of blackberry and black plentiful, jammy red fruit, currant with a medium finish. blackberry, and a hint of mint; Jackson-Triggs 2007 Vidal Spicy barbecued ribs.  $ present tannins and a medium Icewine / VQA Niagara Vineyard Brands, 205-980-8802 finish. Grilled meats.  $ Peninsula, Canada E. & J. Gallo, 866-949-4637 Feudi di San Gregorio 2004 100% Vidal Marchesi di Gresy 2007 Privilegio / IGT Campania, Italy Thick and amber-orange in color Dolcetto d’Alba Monte Aribaldo / Tablas Creek 2006 Côtes de 100% Fiano di Avellino with nectarlike aromas and flavors Piedmont, Italy Tablas / Paso Robles, California Creamy in texture with floral of clover honey, blood orange, 100% Dolcetto 72% Grenache, 11% Syrah, aromas and flavors of white and ripe cantaloupe; good Earthy, fresh aromas and flavors 9% Mourvèdre, 8% Counoise peach, honey, and notes of orange balancing acidity with a lingering of bright cherry, raspberry, and Heady with aromas of strawberry, peel; sunshine in a glass. Full sweet finish. A dessert in itself. fennel with a delicate floral note; tobacco, mushroom, and fennel; bodied with a delicious medium  $$ (187 ml bottles) medium bodied and zesty with bursts of wild cherry on the palate finish. Sliced pear with sharp Icon Estates, 800-529-9463 welcome acidity and tartness. with hints of chocolate, black tea, cheddar. $$$ Eggplant Parmesan.  $$ and jasmine. Medium bodied, (six 500 ml bottles) Dalla Terra, 707-259-5405 balanced, and very enjoyable. Palm Bay International, Veal Provençal.  $$ 800-872-5622 Vineyard Brands, 205-980-8802 Photography credits PAGE "#, "$, AND #% BY GREG NESBIT PAGE #& © MONKEY BUSINESS'FOTOLIA.COM PAGE ## © ED ANDERSON'COURTESY OF A%"

Piccini 2004 Sasso al Poggio / Tormaresca 2007 Neprica / IGT IGT Tuscany, Italy Puglia, Italy Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet 40% Negromaro, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon, 30% Primitivo Full bodied with rich, mature dried Vibrant black fruit with aromas Inniskillin 2006 Vidal Gold fruit, nutmeg, oak, and earthy and flavors of cassis, anise, and Icewine / VQA Niagara notes; round and harmonious with mineral notes; full bodied with Peninsula, Canada some heat in the long finish. Roast good savory character. Full, rich, 100% Vidal beef.  $$$ and thick with some heat in the Intense aromas and flavors of AV Brands, 410-884-9463 finish. Short ribs.  $ green apple, fresh peach, and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, honey; full bodied with great René Barbier NV Mediterranean 425-488-1133 concentration, a viscous, unctuous Red / Catalunya, Spain mouth-feel, and a wonderfully 60% Tempranillo, 30% Garnacha, long finish. Assorted cheese plate 10% Monastrell with figs. $$$ Medium to full bodied with (six 375 ml bottles) aromas and flavors of red cherry Icon Estates, 800-529-9463 and mild licorice; dry, tannic, and soft in the mouth with a medium finish. Barbecued meats. $ Freixenet USA, 707-996-7256

 indicates an excellent indicates Santé $ $120 or less $$$ $201–$300 march / april.2009 SANTÉ 85 by-the-glass choice Gold Star $$ $121–$200 $$$$ $301 or more