From Cape Reinga in the North to Fjordland in the South, Our Insiders Show You the Best of Both Islands

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From Cape Reinga in the North to Fjordland in the South, Our Insiders Show You the Best of Both Islands NEW ZEALAND The Insiders' Guide From Cape Reinga in the north to Fjordland in the south, our insiders show you the best of both islands. Contents Sam Grimmer Contents Overview Overview 03 Christchurch 28 Top 10 Experiences Wanaka 32 in New Zealand 03 Kaikoura 34 North vs South Island 07 Fiordland 36 Climate and Weather 08 Stewart Island 39 North Islandd Where to Stay 09 Abel Tasman and Nelson Lakes 41 Getting Around 10 Food and Nightlife 12 Adventure 43 Travel Safety 14 North Island Adventure 44 Visas 15 South Island Adventure 47 South Island Hiking on the North Island 49 North Island 16 Hiking on the South Island 51 Auckland 17 Wellington 20 Essential Insurance Tips 53 Rotorua and Taupo 22 Our Contributors 55 Northland 24 See Our Other Guides 55 Adventure Get a Quote 56 South Island 26 Queenstown 27 2 Welcome! Whangarei Those of you up in the northern hemisphere might have Norway and Iceland, but New Auckland Zealand’s hectic tramping trails, 3,000m+ mountain peaks, epic geothermal wonders, Rotorua and top-notch lakes to kayak are well worth Taupo the long-haul flight. Be on the lookout for the elusive Kiwi bird, and always be sure to leave no trace – New Zealand’s pristine ecosystems are outstanding for one reason: the locals know how to explore sustainably. Nelson Wellington Contents Our Insiders' Picks of the Top 10 Christchurch Experiences in Wanaka Overview New Zealand Queenstown Dunedin Explore Fiordland Invercargill beyond Milford Sound Stewart Island Sure, the gateway to Milford Sound Don’t just take a day-cruise. Instead, North Islandd looks great from the rocky foreshore, if you’ve got a hire car, stop off along but imagine kayaking beneath tumbling Milford Road to check out these less- waterfalls and finding seals perched on crowded highlights. Stop to take in boulders deep inside the channels of Lake Marian after a three-hour return, the sounds. 1.5mi (2.4km) hike, park up at The Divide for a walk up Key Summit (three South Island hours, 2.11mi/3.4km), or take a short trip to The Chasm (20min, 400m) to see the narrow gorge with the Cleddau River thundering through. Better yet, if you’ve got more time (and a little more budget), head to Adventure Doubtful Sound. This part of Fiordland is much larger than Milford, so you’ll need at least a few days to make the Seals at Milford Sound Parinaz Bilimoria most of the region. 3 Kiwi birds and kayaks on Take on the Tongariro Weather in Stewart Island Alpine Crossing Fiordland It can snow here any If you’re looking for a real sense of An adventure on the North Island month of the year, isolation, look no further (well, it’s would be incomplete without hiking and can rain a meter pretty far) than Stewart Island, tucked this famous alpine crossing. In just in a day. Fiordland away at the southernmost end of the one day, you'll weave your way by is, essentially, a rainforest. This is country. three volcanoes: Tongariro, Ruapehu, good in terms of This is an ideal destination for and Ngauruhoe – which you might the sheer volume nature lovers and adventure seekers, recognize from The Lord of the Rings. of waterfalls, but it means you need and one of the best places to see the Challenges on the 12.5mi (20km) to embrace the elusive Kiwi bird. Here, the endangered hike include the 'devil's staircase' idea of getting wet. national icon outnumbers human and slippery scree slopes, but You should also residents (400 humans to roughly you'll be rewarded with incredible have alternative plans in case access 13,000 Kiwi birds). turquoise sulphur lakes and a volcanic to Milford or Contents At dusk, kayak along Stewart Island’s moonscape. Keep in mind (like Doubtful is closed, peaceful bays. The island’s southerly everywhere else in New Zealand) which happens occasionally at position means late, lingering sunsets the weather can be temperamental, times of high rain or and sunrises in summer. Be sure to visit so come prepared with waterproof avalanche risk. around December–February. clothing and layers. Overview Experience geo-thermal Visit sacred Cape Reinga wonders at Lake Taupo Get your own vehicle and camping While Rotorua is considered New Zealand’s geothermal capital, smaller Taupo is worth a visit if you want to North Islandd avoid crowds. Situated on Lake Taupo – the crater of a super volcano – the whole town looks toward the snow- capped peaks of three active volcanoes: Tongariro, Ruapehu, and Ngauruhoe. Dip your toes into the layers of South Island volcanic pumice on Lake Taupo’s shoreline and feel hot water seeping below your feet. Or, head to the hot waterfall of Otumuheke Stream at Spa Park, where locals submerge themselves with a cold beer in hand, Adventure watching the swirling Waikato River. The stream mixes with cool river water, so there’s a temperature to suit Tongariro Alpine Crossing everyone. 4 gear to see Northland, and give yourself at least four or five days to A short take it all in. Catch a sunset from Cape drive past Reinga, where the ancient pohutukawa the bright tree stands, and – so the legend goes – turquoise spirits take the leap to go back to their waters ancestral home. of Lake It’s a six-hour drive north of Dunstan Auckland on route nr1, so be sure to brings you to stop in at remote bays, like Spirits Bay Lake Wanaka Lake Wanaka and Matai Bay, along the way. and Lake Milly McGrath On your way back, go sandboarding Hawea. at Te Paki Sand Dunes. Hold on tight to Lake Wanaka and Hawea your boogie board, because you’re not A short drive past the bright turquoise Contents stopping until you hit the bottom. waters of Lake Dunstan brings you to Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea. Here, Unwind at Piha and the you’ll find yourself at the edge of the Waitakere Ranges stunning, snow-capped Southern Alps. West of Auckland lies the Waitakere Although Wanaka is a must-stop for Ranges (the Waitaks, in local speak). many tourists on their journey through Overview Start your adventure with a drive to the South Island, if you look beyond Piha (pronounced Pee-ha), arguably ‘that Wanaka tree’ and Roy’s Peak, New Zealand’s most beautiful beach. the surrounding National Parks and Don’t let any weather put you off. If it’s Conservation Areas can easily pull you sunny, great. If not, even better. Piha is away from queues of photographers North Islandd a driftwood-strewn, black-sand beach and tourists. Some quieter alternatives with thundering surf – it’s best in wet, to Roy’s Peak are Isthmus Peak and windy weather. Breast Hill, both of which have equally Take the Kitekite track to Kitekite bewildering views. Falls. The vegetation in this area is beautiful, studded with nikau palms, Hike to the base of New South Island fern fronds, and native birds, and the Zealand’s highest mountain falls at the end of the track are worth One of the easiest and best day-hikes the walk. would have to be the Hooker Valley Escape the crowds at one of the Track. Winding its way from White stunning but seldom-visited beaches Horse Hill campsite to the glacial lake nearby – Anawhata is the best of at the foot of Mount Cook, you’ll be Adventure the bunch. It’s a steep (but well- surrounded by happy hikers as you maintained) walk from the carpark walk along high suspension bridges down to the beach, and you’ll likely be and wooden walkways. the only people there. Aim to start the hike an hour 5 If the South Island is your destination, be sure to try Gillespies Pass, the Kepler Track, or the Routeburn. If it’s the Noth Island you’re tramping, check out Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Rangitoto Summit, and the Putangirua Pinnacles. Hire a campervan to make the most of it Getting a hire car is a great way to see the sights yourself. But, spending a little extra to hire a campervan (once you consider the money saved on Contents accommodation) makes complete sense. Campsites aren’t expensive, Approaching Lindis Pass especially if you aim to go for the free DOCs sites – despite limited facilities, before sunrise or sunset and you’ll be they’ve got the ultimate views. rewarded with fairy-floss colored skies Don’t just follow the well-known Overview and less crowds. Pack a snack to enjoy West Coast on the South Island or while watching the icebergs bobbing Auckland to Wellington, ask around around the lake (unless you’re there in when you arrive to get advice from winter, when it’s totally frozen over). those that know best – the locals. They’ll deliver when it comes to secret North Islandd Hut-to-hut hikes and DOCs coves and quiet lake-side campsites. campsites New Zealand’s Department of Conservation (DOC) manages over 200 Preparing for Hut-to-Hut Tramping campsites and over 950 huts. Book If you’re heading out overnight on foot, you’re not hiking: you’re your sites in advance if you’re traveling tramping. New Zealand has an amazing network of tramping huts, all South Island maintained by the loveable Department of Conservation (DOC). Huts during peak season (October–April), have bunks with mattresses and a water supply, but no food, cooking and know the huts vary in amenities, equipment, or rubbish bins. but most have a big bunk bed and a Visit your local DOC visitors’ center before you head out on a tramp.
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