04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 1

1 Family Highlights of

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 04_518786 ch01.qxp1/29/087:13PMPage2

2 1 Family Highlights of Ireland W far toomuchtocompress intoasinglevisit,unlessit’s longone, avery around thefamily. So, cateringforyoungsters issecondnature. oftheextended Irishpart family, andinIreland, agreat dealrevolves ther simplytoleratednormatter-of-factlyaccommodated; theyare ment thatoftenspringsupastheevening wears on. and thattheyappreciate asmuchparents theimpromptu entertain- Irish pub. We discovered thatchildren are welcome inmanypubs, than you nightsspentrelaxing mightimaginefrom afew inatypical Co Donegal. ones oflocalsignificance,suchastheDoagh Island Famine Village in butwe werewell deserved, perhapsmore touchedby muchsmaller Castlebar, ortheUlster Folk and Transport Museum inCoDown, are museums suchastheNational Museums ofIreland inDublin and outstanding museums. We foundthatthereputations ofthebig with muchofthecountry’s culturalandsocialheritageexplainedin –butitwasalsoaboutheritage,culturesailing, cruising andfolklore, doors andadventure –walking,cycling, sports horseriding,surfing, Ireland, theNorth-west and West, whileDennis Kelsall didtherest. researched chaptersandthosefor Belfast, Northern theintroductory and theinternationallyrenowned Giant’s inCoAntrim. Causeway of bizarre limestonescenery andwonderful The Burren inCoClare, them dumbstruck. There are rough mountains,clichédboglands,the brigade. tothebucket-and-spade and dramaticheadlands,cateringperfectly often sandwichedneatlyintoasheltered nichebetween towering cliffs is thecoast–andwhatacoast;highquality, Blue Flag sandybeaches, quickly discovered thatfamiliesinIreland are drawntotheedges,that come outtheotherside,askeen,energeticandenthusiasticever. through someof themosthorrendous timesofmodernhistory, and where inEurope? And,moreover, thathasbattledon isacountry andmostvibranttowns andvillagesany- some ofthefinestscenery fun atanationthathasgreat food,legendsandfolklore galore, and of ‘The Troubles’. We stoppedtellingIrish jokes.How canyou poke warmth andsincerityofthepeoplesimplyleftusmesmerised,inspite attherathermore leisurelytry paceof2gph(twoGuinness perhour). then we’ve slowed down, andbeguntoappreciate thisfabulouscoun- You’ll needacartoexplore Ireland fully;infact,there’s probably This attitudetochildren isakeyfacetofIrish life:children are nei- But Ireland isnotjustaboutofficialsights. You canlearnfarmore We foundthatfor ourfamiliesIreland wasaboutenjoying theout- To ensure bettercoverage, tocompilethisguide Terry Marsh Inland, thepowerful landscapewilleitherexcite children orleave Later, we returned separatelytoexplore withchildren intow. We Despite ouryouthful speed,thecountry, thelandscapesand racing upanddown mountainstoraisemoneyforcharity. Since e bothfirstgottoknowIreland inthe1970s,whenTerry was Best Family Experiences 3 Puck (see p. 196) (see p. Clonmany in Killorglin, Co Kerry, in Killorglin, Co Kerry, Belfast Children’s Festival Belfast Children’s One festival gaining an festival One Fair Family Festival one of Ireland’s oldest fairs (see one of Ireland’s fire- 146), featuring parades, p. dancing displays, street works, compe- entertainment, children’s titions and concerts, and ending of King with the coronation mountain goat. a Puck, is that at enviable reputation Clonmany in Co Donegal. Clonmany parish is renowned glens, beaches and for its lovely but the annual (see p. 223), where all ages can 223), where (see p. take part in plays or mess about with paints, water and all man- ner of sticky substances – to other (seemingly) disorganised fun and merriment such as Ireland website you can get up- you website Ireland about the to-date information some wacky main events, well- options ranging from that specifi- organised festivals – such as cally target children the promises music, high jinks, fun promises and games with some of the top a also features artists. It Irish of supportingvariety events, ) lists a Almost Family logo throughout your logo throughout Look out for this Politically, there are two , the Republic and Northern the Republic Irelands, two are there Politically, www.discoverireland.ie host of tourism providers. All host of tourism providers. have those listed on the website signed up to a family-friendly families They welcome charter. and will do all with children time with they can to make your and memorable. them enjoyable every and village in Ireland town annual ‘organised’ has its own time during the at some festival can gatecrash though you year, almost anywhere, mini-festivals the Discover any time. From stay. Wherever it’s displayed, it’s Wherever stay. will be a warm welcome there and friendly service and for you family. your Best Family Events BEST FAMILY BEST FAMILY EXPERIENCES welcome to warm your heart. your to warm welcome FAMILY-FRIENDLY PROMISE website Ireland The Discover ( so return visits are ideal. But, with a car, you can make best use of use best make can you car, a with But, ideal. are visits return so all reach transport that public places doesn’t and explore time, your that regularly. to be largely ignores; is one that this guide The distinction Ireland. a as a visitor is will notice you only major difference honest the border can spot the way you the only Often currency. change of of cur- the plethora is by Ireland Northern and the Republic between course, divide. Of that straggle the invisible outlets exchange rency the but few the visitor, that impact on other differences, are there find a and you’ll now, Go of Ireland. in search tourist, or the family Friendly 04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 3 7:13 PM 1/29/08 ch01.qxp 04_518786 04_518786 ch01.qxp1/29/087:13PMPage4

4 1 Family Highlights of Ireland Ireland’s highestmountain, Hag’s Glen intheshadow of walkupthe take ashort drop inforcoffeeat To seemountainsattheirbest there are plentyofalternatives. a bitofdisappointment.But astheyare,derful comeacross as from over attention,andwon- butboththeseplacessuffer true, in CoClare. This stillremains Antrim, andthe Giant’s Causeway, CoAntrim Carruantoohill Yard the attractions ofIreland were For manyyears thefinest natural Best NaturalAttractions hem, really. car bootsales.Delightful may- tug-o-war, children’s and sports, and dances,ceilidhdancing, hunt, andraftrace,plusdisco singing competition,cartreasure including anagriculturalshow, Giant’s Causeway (see p. 149),andmaybe . Equally Cliffs ofMoher Cronin’s in Co , perfect confinesofthe perfect craggy summitsandthepicnic- both inthebeguilingdisplayof Mountains ofNorthern Ireland enthralling are theMourne Valley excellent zoos, but Both andBelfast have Best WildlifeExperience Dolphin Oceanworld getting wet. At the wildlife...without underwater through themagicalworldof face-to-face andenjoy ajourney tures from allover theworld p. 150)letschildren meetcrea- Fungie hasbeendelighting residence inDingle Bay in1983, forgot cons andeagles.Andwe mustn’t of gettingupclosetoowls, fal- 205),there’s areal chance (see p. Flying) Research Centre (Eagles Fungie, theDingle (see p. 231). in Ballymote, CoSligo . Ever sincehetookup in Co Kerry (see in CoKerry Dingle Irish Raptor Silent Best Family Experiences 5 , Ryan’s Inch Strand Tullagh Strand Tullagh Ireland’s beaches are Ireland’s , offers four kilometres among the best in Europe and among the best in Europe lists website Ireland the Discover 76 of them, 68 of which have 33). status (see p. Flag Blue Among the finest, Corofin-Ballyvaughan road, road, Corofin-Ballyvaughan most photo- and one of Ireland’s graphed dolmens, dating from Age (4th millen- the Late Stone nium BC). yourselves. Best Beach near Clonmany comes to mind – simple can have children where fun all day long, and at times you to the beach entirely can have the location for the film Daughter of sand for bathing, surfing, sea angling, burying dad and build- although the Blue ing castles. But guarantees a certain stan- Flag many other excel- are there dard, lent beaches – in Co Meath (see in Co Meath Fungie, The Dingle Dolphin complex is one of the most sites in important prehistoric than 40 sepa- with more Europe its heartrate monuments. At is tomb, the stunning Newgrange ago. than 5,000 years built more as fascinating, or puzzling, is Just p. 75) is the most intriguing site. 75) is the most intriguing p. pyramids and than Egypt’s Older burial the Boyne Stonehenge, Poulnabrone Portal Tomb Poulnabrone 179), in a field beside the (see p. Fungie doesn’t show, you’re not you’re show, doesn’t Fungie get the boat charged – so you 150). (see p. trip for free Experience Best Prehistoric and right to the children, it Pitch a grave- a walk through ‘Taking takes on a Harry Potterish yard’ offers you aura, and Ireland plenty of chances to do just that. Brú na Bóinne visitors of all ages. Trips to see Trips visitors of all ages. and give operate all year Fungie a win-win scenario; if parents 04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 5 7:13 PM 1/29/08 ch01.qxp 04_518786 04_518786 ch01.qxp1/29/087:13PMPage6

6 1 Family Highlights of Ireland 19th-century 19th-century house, tower fortified a 15th-century dating back5,000years. There’s forts tombs andpromontory since thetimeofitsmegalithic It hasbeensettledby humans ing andmoochingabout. place forlingering,beachcomb- cover theisland’s interior. It’s a waytodis- trails isawonderful cycling alongthequietlanesand scenery, whilewalking and Drive takesinthebestofthis the shore. The 40kmAchill blanket bogsweeping down to highest cliffs,andlargetractsof Flag beaches,someofEurope’s major drawwithsuperbBlue The Achill landscapeisalsoa Slievemore andAilt. villagesat and thedeserted Island Best Island Tullagh StrandnearClonmany choose oneitwouldbe ical quality. But ifwe hadto ‘best’ oneastheyallhave amag- islands andthere really isn’t a in CoMayo (seep. 174). Kildamhnait Castle Ireland hasalotof Achill Mission Achill , the Hill CountryPark addition, it’s ofthe part shop fronts, gaslightsetc.In Victorian narrow, paved streets, to takeyou backintimeinto p. 225)have beentransformed Belfast Zoo, andoffersplentyof romp about allday, iscloseto complex where children can Donegal Bay onthe equally delightfulisthetourof the dolphin(seep. 150),but Dingle Bay insearch ofFungie be saidfortheboattriparound cellars of p. 60).Abitlessscary, the money’s withfive (see worth Co Dublin, you getyour Best Castle sites around thebay. birdlife alongwiththehistoric chance ofseeingsealsand (see p. 201),whichoffersagood Best BoatTrip a ghostortwo,butat castle isreally completewithout are plentytochoosefrom. No ally bestowed withcastles,there Belfast Castle In a country liber- In acountry There’s alotto (see p. 225) Waterbus Malahide, Cave (see Best Accommodation 7 in Luxury Not just Not The Clarence children a lot to do while allow- do while lot to a children ing parents the time to relax and relax time to the ing parents in pampering in a little indulge of the Spa zone the child-free Centre. Outdoors and Wellness tennis court a grass and a there’s court,floodlit all-weather plus and putt course. 9-hole pitch Hill Marble Flag The Blue fun offers all the nearby Strand best beaches. of one of Ireland’s West Cork (see p. 161) offer a (see p. Cork West the During stunning sea view. the summer holidays Sammy Club offers Children’s Seal supervised games, swimming competitions, painting, outdoor games, videos and Playstation, can head and if it rains you indoors for the swimming pool, the fully equipped fitness centre, or indulge in a little relaxation and beauty therapy. Best Coastal Hotel Harbour Hotel Baltimore Best City Centre Hotel Best City Centre 62). (see p. in Dublin Liffey on the River Overlooking area Bar Temple of the will be older children of town, the fact that it’s by wowed The Edge and by owned . group rock of the Irish the best of Irish Embodying offers The Clarence hospitality, elegant comfort and attention to go out They detail throughout. of their way to make younger with ‘Clarence guests welcome, special gifts, Kids Cocktails’, and family movies. Playstation comfortable, at the most rooms hotels don’t come any more fam- come any more hotels don’t ily-friendly than at Shandon Hotel We couldn’t agree couldn’t We Ulster Folk on this. On the one hand the the on this. On and Transport Museum and Transport BEST ACCOMMODATION Most Family-friendly Option away in the north of Tucked the Co Donegal, 209) p. (see Bay at Sheephaven is an inspiration. Catering for of the families is the raison d’être they do it with hotel, and here panache and attention to detail. with inde- family rooms Sizeable bedrooms, pendent children’s washing fridges, freezers, ovens machines and microwave The leisure along. help parents and independent adven- centre playhouse supervisedture by trained childminders give places on site for snacks and snacks for site on places meals. light Museum Best of Ireland National Museum museum to see, is ‘the’ 54) (see p. three across spread so huge it’s with a fourth at sites in Dublin is the This Castlebar in Co Mayo. museum, displaying archetypical and eclectic a vast the all over mix of items from the world. But Holywood in Co Down (see in Co Down Holywood to relevant 231) is more p. quite so and isn’t Ireland, have impersonal. Both venues keep attractions to interactive amused for hours; in children be well fact, visit both and you’ll and truly museumed-out at the end of it. 04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 7 7:13 PM 1/29/08 ch01.qxp 04_518786 04_518786 ch01.qxp1/29/087:13PMPage8

8 1 Family Highlights of Ireland the children fortheirnames;it’s in tothehotel,staffalsoask touch isthatwhenadultscheck and Jacuzzi. nice Aparticularly ming pool,children’s playroom ing an18mindoorheatedswim- and fullleisure facilitiesinclud- rants, self-cateringapartments courtyard housesshops,restau- is muchmore thanahotel;its Clifden, CoGalway (seep. 185) setting, its romantic Victorian castle 4-star Most EnterprisingHotel Best ‘Castle’Hotel The Clarence Hotel,Dublin ing mealintherestaurant. can enjoy alaterandmore relax- mal settingofthebar, soparents can betakeninthemore infor- for children are abigplus,and and golfcourse.Earlydinners sive grounds withatenniscourt sun terracelooksoutover exten- back toanearlierage,whilethe rooms andpublicareas thathark p. 131)offerselegantlyfurnished CoCavan (see Kingscourt, Station HouseHotel Cabra CastleHotel With The in in elegant bedrooms. from sleepingchildren inthe place forparents torelax away guest loungemakesaperfect The Burren, andacomfortable suited tofamiliesexploring and suitesmakesitperfectly of Ireland. Achoiceofrooms ofthewest most beautifulparts 4-star guesthouseinoneofthe Clare (seep. 183)isanelegant Best Guesthouse ing rink. hotel isturnedintoaniceskat- winter, thecourtyard ofthe and organisedmayhem.During session withgames,stories,toys playroom there isasupervised competitions. For under-4s, restaurant, children’s videosand the pool,children’s dinnerinthe Club withgames,splashtimein aRailwayChildren’shotel runs During summermonths,the the familyfeelwelcome. just asmallthing,butmakesall Lodge at Ballyvaughan inCo Rusheen Best Eating Options 9 Ouzo’s Pinky Design Centre Design With a children’s With (see p. 239) in 239) (see p. Moons Diner house above the the above house Best Seafood in Kilkenny (see p. 112), is the 112), is p. (see in Kilkenny a It’s restaurant. excellent centre’s to bring youngsters; place great the surroundings not only are first class, but the staff and food their way to remove go out of a of eating out with the stress colouring are There family. chil- to keep books and crayons amused and plenty of space dren the tables too, a big help round struggling a with when you’re buggy. baby plenty of space’ The same ‘Give applies in approach Larne, Co Antrim and children Larne, Co Antrim and the by over will be bowled 1950s-style décor with posters James Wayne, featuring John Cash and Elvis, Johnny Dean, the family cubicles, and the jukebox. ‘original’ menu featuring lobster chops, crab cakes, chargrilled sirloin and tagliatelle carbonara, Facing the castle, Facing ‘Family Eating Alcoves’. ‘Family Most Child-friendly Restaurants Traditonal rants as well that don’t seek that don’t rants as well and among these glory, Michelin find the essence of Irish you use of cuisine, making good it up and dishing local produce, in with enthusiasm, usually copious quantities. number the are the increase On and bistros of cafés, brasseries, that dedicate them- restaurants to catering for family selves places in some even groups, offering completely separate BEST EATING BEST OPTIONS and cities, Dublin The two main reputa- a growing have Belfast, with in food, tion for excellence restaurants four Michelin-starred more them, and many between for similar status. But pressing of other restau- plenty are there in the former stables and coach 04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 9 7:13 PM 1/29/08 ch01.qxp 04_518786 04_518786 ch01.qxp1/29/087:13PMPage10

10 1 Family Highlights of Ireland private room toaccommodate of junkfood. They even have a rather thanachildren’s menu oftheadultmenu sized portions the food,andchildren gethalf- raving about. The emphasisison we metinSligo Town were all (see p. 213)iswhattheparents but You canarguealldayaboutthis, Best Traditional IrishCuisine the sameday. tobeserved across thecountry andracingthecatch Co Kerry own boatsoutinDingle Bay in seafood by catchingitfrom their ensures thefreshest possible in Ranelagh,Dublin (seep. 66) ’s best-keptsecrets. , andblaa,adoughywhitebread roll anddelicacythatisoneof in GalwaySeptember, theoystersoftenbeingservedwithGuinness. numerous ‘OysterFestivals’are heldannuallyaround thecoast,notably way toothercountriesinEurope. You getsuperboystershere and increased inpopularityrecent times,evenifmuchofthecatch findsits ,friedtomatoandmayalsoincludepotatoslices. This isafriedmealgenerallyincludingbacon,egg,,blackand the stock. sausage andstreaky with slicedpotatoesandonionscookedin in Dublincheckoutcoddle,whichconsistsoflayersboiledpork (boiled togetherinwater).Boxtyisatypeofpotatopancakeand onions are mixed. everywhere andconsistsofmashedpotatointowhichchoppedspring (the earliestform),pluscabbageorcurlykale.Champisservedalmost fare, servedinrestaurants andhotels. dishes servedinpubsandsimplereating-places,more modern simple Irish cuisinefallsintotwocategories–traditional,mainly Coach Lane@Donaghy’s Traditional Irishbreads includesodabread, wheatenbread, soda Seafood hasalwaysbeeneateninIreland butshellfishdisheshave The FullIrishBreakfast isnot for thefaint-hearted,orthoseonadiet. Other simpleIrishdishesare Irishstew, andbaconcabbage Traditional dishesincludecolcannon,madeofpotatoandwildgarlic or wafflesandfruit. salmon filledwithcream cheese specials, includingsmoked pancakes andchangingdaily Irish, oroptforsmokedsalmon, day withthetraditionalFull aged over five. You the canstart modates familieswithchildren Co Galway, whichalsoaccom- Buttermilk Lodge Best your senses. the flavour ofIreland tohitall remarkably Irish town, allows traditional Irish pubina and diningdirectly above a family groups ofuptoeight, fast we found was served in fast we foundwasserved The bestbreak- in Clifden,