04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 1 1 Family Highlights of Ireland COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 2 e both first got to know Ireland in the 1970s, when Terry was Wracing up and down mountains to raise money for charity. Since then we’ve slowed down, and begun to appreciate this fabulous coun- try at the rather more leisurely pace of 2gph (two Guinness per hour). Despite our youthful speed, the country, the landscapes and the warmth and sincerity of the people simply left us mesmerised, in spite of ‘The Troubles’. We stopped telling Irish jokes. How can you poke fun at a nation that has great food, legends and folklore galore, and some of the finest scenery and most vibrant towns and villages any- where in Europe? And, moreover, is a country that has battled on through some of the most horrendous times of modern history, and come out the other side, as keen, energetic and enthusiastic as ever. Family Highlights of Ireland Later, we returned separately to explore with children in tow. We 1 quickly discovered that families in Ireland are drawn to the edges, that is the coast – and what a coast; high quality, Blue Flag sandy beaches, often sandwiched neatly into a sheltered niche between towering cliffs and dramatic headlands, catering perfectly to the bucket-and-spade brigade. Inland, the powerful landscape will either excite children or leave them dumbstruck. There are rough mountains, clichéd boglands, the bizarre and wonderful limestone scenery of The Burren in Co Clare, and the internationally renowned Giant’s Causeway in Co Antrim. To ensure better coverage, to compile this guide Terry Marsh researched the introductory chapters and those for Belfast, Northern Ireland, the North-west and West, while Dennis Kelsall did the rest. We found that for our families Ireland was about enjoying the out- doors and adventure sports – walking, cycling, horse riding, surfing, sailing, cruising – but it was also about heritage, culture and folklore, with much of the country’s cultural and social heritage explained in outstanding museums. We found that the reputations of the big museums such as the National Museums of Ireland in Dublin and Castlebar, or the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum in Co Down, are well deserved, but we were perhaps more touched by much smaller ones of local significance, such as the Doagh Island Famine Village in Co Donegal. But Ireland is not just about official sights. You can learn far more than you might imagine from a few nights spent relaxing in a typical Irish pub. We discovered that children are welcome in many pubs, and that they appreciate as much as parents the impromptu entertain- ment that often springs up as the evening wears on. This attitude to children is a key facet of Irish life: children are nei- ther simply tolerated nor matter-of-factly accommodated; they are part of the extended Irish family, and in Ireland, a great deal revolves around the family. So, catering for youngsters is second nature. You’ll need a car to explore Ireland fully; in fact, there’s probably 2 far too much to compress into a single visit, unless it’s a very long one, 04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 3 so return visits are ideal. But, with a car, you can make best use of Best Family Experiences your time, and explore places that public transport doesn’t reach all that regularly. Politically, there are two Irelands, the Republic and Northern Ireland. The distinction is one that this guide largely ignores; to be honest the only major difference you will notice as a visitor is a change of currency. Often the only way you can spot the border between the Republic and Northern Ireland is by the plethora of cur- rency exchange outlets that straggle the invisible divide. Of course, there are other differences, but few that impact on the visitor, the tourist, or the family in search of Ireland. Go now, and you’ll find a welcome to warm your heart. FAMILY-FRIENDLY Ireland website you can get up- PROMISE to-date information about the main events, some wacky options ranging from well- The Discover Ireland website organised festivals that specifi- (www.discoverireland.ie) lists a cally target children – such as host of tourism providers. All the Belfast Children’s Festival those listed on the website have (see p. 223), where all ages can signed up to a family-friendly take part in plays or mess about charter. They welcome families with paints, water and all man- with children and will do all ner of sticky substances – to they can to make your time with other (seemingly) disorganised them enjoyable and memorable. fun and merriment such as Puck Look out for this Family Fair in Killorglin, Co Kerry, Friendly logo throughout your one of Ireland’s oldest fairs (see stay. Wherever it’s displayed, p. 146), featuring parades, fire- there will be a warm welcome works, dancing displays, street and friendly service for you and entertainment, children’s compe- your family. titions and concerts, and ending with the coronation of King Puck, a mountain goat. BEST FAMILY One festival gaining an EXPERIENCES enviable reputation is that at Clonmany in Co Donegal. Best Family Events Almost Clonmany parish is renowned every town and village in Ireland for its lovely beaches and glens, has its own ‘organised’ annual but the annual Clonmany festival at some time during the Family Festival (see p. 196) year, though you can gatecrash promises music, high jinks, fun mini-festivals almost anywhere, and games with some of the top any time. From the Discover Irish artists. It also features a variety of supporting events, 3 04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 4 including an agricultural show, enthralling are the Mourne singing competition, car treasure Mountains of Northern Ireland hunt, and raft race, plus disco both in the beguiling display of and dances, ceilidh dancing, craggy summits and the picnic- tug-o-war, children’s sports, and perfect confines of the Silent car boot sales. Delightful may- Valley (see p. 231). hem, really. Best Wildlife Experience Best Natural Attractions Both Dublin and Belfast have For many years the finest natural excellent zoos, but Dingle attractions of Ireland were Oceanworld in Co Kerry (see the Giant’s Causeway in Co p. 150) lets children meet crea- Cliffs of Moher Family Highlights of Ireland Antrim, and the , tures from all over the world 1 in Co Clare. This still remains face-to-face and enjoy a journey true, but both these places suffer through the magical world of from over attention, and won- underwater wildlife...without derful as they are, come across as getting wet. At the Irish Raptor a bit of a disappointment. But Research Centre (Eagles there are plenty of alternatives. Flying) in Ballymote, Co Sligo To see mountains at their best (see p. 205), there’s a real chance drop in for coffee at Cronin’s of getting up close to owls, fal- Yard (see p. 149), and maybe cons and eagles. And we mustn’t take a short walk up the forgot Fungie, the Dingle Hag’s Glen in the shadow of Dolphin. Ever since he took up Ireland’s highest mountain, residence in Dingle Bay in 1983, Carruantoohill. Equally Fungie has been delighting Giant’s Causeway, Co Antrim 4 04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 5 Best Family Experiences Fungie, The Dingle Dolphin visitors of all ages. Trips to see Corofin-Ballyvaughan road, Fungie operate all year and give and one of Ireland’s most photo- parents a win-win scenario; if graphed dolmens, dating from Fungie doesn’t show, you’re not the Late Stone Age (4th millen- charged – so you get the boat nium BC). trip for free (see p. 150). Best Beach Ireland’s beaches are Best Prehistoric Experience among the best in Europe and Pitch it right to the children, and the Discover Ireland website lists ‘Taking a walk through a grave- 76 of them, 68 of which have yard’ takes on a Harry Potterish Blue Flag status (see p. 33). aura, and Ireland offers you Among the finest, Inch Strand, plenty of chances to do just that. the location for the film Ryan’s Brú na Bóinne in Co Meath (see Daughter, offers four kilometres p. 75) is the most intriguing site. of sand for bathing, surfing, sea Older than Egypt’s pyramids and angling, burying dad and build- Stonehenge, the Boyne burial ing castles. But although the Blue complex is one of the most Flag guarantees a certain stan- important prehistoric sites in dard, there are many other excel- Europe with more than 40 sepa- lent beaches – Tullagh Strand rate monuments. At its heart is near Clonmany comes to mind – the stunning Newgrange tomb, where children can have simple built more than 5,000 years ago. fun all day long, and at times you Just as fascinating, or puzzling, is can have the beach entirely to Poulnabrone Portal Tomb yourselves. (see p. 179), in a field beside the 5 04_518786 ch01.qxp 1/29/08 7:13 PM Page 6 Family Highlights of Ireland 1 Tullagh Strand near Clonmany Best Island Ireland has a lot of Best Boat Trip There’s a lot to islands and there really isn’t a be said for the boat trip around ‘best’ one as they all have a mag- Dingle Bay in search of Fungie ical quality. But if we had to the dolphin (see p.