Blue
Jeans
Machine ‘
WHITE BEWINQ MACHINE CONTENTS
1. NAMES OF PARTS 2 2. ACCESSORIES 3 3. BEFORE SEWING 4 Detaching Extension Table 4 Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord 5 Changing Needle 6 Changing Foot 7 Bobbin Winding 8 Inserting Bobbin 11 Adjusting Lower Tension 12 Drop Feed Lever 12 Threading Upper Thread 13 Twin Needle Threading 14 Decorative Tucks or Designs 14 Drawing Up Lower Thread 15 Foot Pressure 15 Fabric, Thread and Needle Table 16 Pattern Setting 17 4. STRAIGHT SEWING 18 Pattern Selection Dial 18 Stitch Length Dial 18 Starting to Sew 19 Double Presser Foot Lifter 19 Cloth Guide 20 Adjusting Thread Tension 20 Applications of Straight Stitch 21 5. ZIGZAG SEWING 22 Zigzag Width Control 22 Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch 22 6. MAKING BUTTONHOLES 23 Determine Length 23 Determine Width 23 Buttonhole Density Adjustment 25 Cutting Buttonholes 26 7. SEWING ON BUTTONS 27 8. OVERCASTING 28 9. OVERLOCKING 29 Application of Rick-Rack 31 Application of Decorative Fun Patterns 32 10. STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH 30 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance 30 11. BLIND HEM STITCH 33 Elastic Blind Hem Stitch 34 12. STRETCH SEAM 35 13. ZIPPER SEWING 36 14. SHELL STITCHING 15. PIN TUCKING 38 16. QUILTING 39 17. MENDING 40 Patching 40 Mending a Rip 40 18. DARNING 41 19. APPLIQUE WORK 42 20. MAINTENANCE 44 Cleaning 44 Oiling 21. TROUBLE CHART Changing Light Bulb 47 0 CD
M N) N) N) 0) 01 c.) N) C..) N)-. 0 *
I 1. NAMES OF PARTS
1. Thread guide for bobbin winding 2. Foot pressure regulator 3. Upper thread tension dial 4. Face cover 5. Thread guide for upper threading 6. Presser foot thumb screw 7. Presser foot 8. Shuttle cover 9. Top cover 10. Bobbin winding spindle 11. Screw hole for extra spool pin 12. Zigzag width control 13. Special buttonhole adjustment 14. Stitch length dial 15. Reverse sewing lever 16. Pattern selection dial 17. Free arm 18. Drop feed lever
19. Handwheel 20. Stop motion knob 21. Socket 22. Handle 23. Presser foot lifter 24. Feed dog 25. Needle plate 26. Switch * * Specifications vary from country to country.
—2— 2. ACCESSORIES ,— Felts (2 pcs.) Bobbins c (3 Buttonhole foot Needles
Ordinary needles (3 pcs.)
Button sewing foot Bail point needle (1 pc.)
N ‘J ( Twin needle (1 pc.)
Zipper foot Extra spool pin (For twin needle sewing). ( Darning foot Spool cover Quilting guide Oiler
Cloth guide Screw drivers
(small)
Buttonhole cutter (large)
—3—
—4—
I
J
T-shirts,
embroider;
Free-arm
tach
Do
To
push
as
Slide
Detaching
ordinary
which
3.
Machine
open
vice-versa
a
BEFORE
extension
free-arm
open,
off,
makes
blouses,
top
sewing.
is
and
is
trousers,
cover
as
convenient
stored
Extension
of
the
model.
your
table. illustrated.
SEWING
above
etc.
of
machine
in
work
accessory
sleeves,
flat-bed
steps
to
easier
Table
is
sew
used
to
cuffs,
box,
style
at
or for in CAUTION: The wall the
Always when
on
and
*
your at sure cord Connect Connecting b and Before
*
use
Put Push to
Specifications
back and
faster
to
Specifications
more
outlet.
turn
that country. machine
CD
not country. Power
power
always switch
plugging
off.
of
on
you
foot
the voltage
in
When
machine)
the
use.
switch
off
machine press
controller
Cord
(*
detach
to
Foot
in
or
sewing
vary
is
machine
vary
turn written
your
unplug
on
same
foot
from
Controller
the
from sewing
plug
runs. machine,
controlle
light. and
on
as
machine machine
country
country is
a
that
from power
plate
light
not
be
of
—5—
straight
Proper
needle
shaft
sharp
point
—I
—6—
only
thread;
and age
Using Always
sharp
firmly.
With
bar.
a
Push
take
Loosen by
Set
Changing
new
and
turning
of
needle
causes
needle
flat
out
needle
defective
point.
needle
needles
tighten
use
it
face
needle
needle.
also
handwheel
a
plate.
stitch
in
until
straight
Needle
away
into
needle
or
the
can
or
clamp
it
worn
skipping, groove
snapping
highest
reaches
from
damage
needle
clamp
towards
needles
screw
you,
of
position
stopper
break
needle
with
of
screw
insert
hook
you.
not
and a turning Changing
Raise foot. Set you (2) (1)
holding (3)
holder
Position Push
Lower
needle
and
presser
catches
groove haridwheel
foot
button
presser
in
a
Foot
the
will
new
foot
of
presser
highest of
come
foot
foot
lifter.
towards
holder
lifter
by
with
off.
position
foot.
aligning
towards
so
you.
pin
that
of by
—7—
Jr Bobbin Winding
Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you.
Open shuttle cover.
Open latch of bobbin case and remove case.
J
Release latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily.
—8-- Push back to fold handle.
Open top cover.
Put a spooi on spool pin. 4 thread from spool pin through Draw © © thread guide and pretension device, following numbers and,
Caution: Spool should be put on spool pin in the manner of its thread being drawn from under side of spool.
Wind thread clockwise around bob bin several times. Push bobbin onto spindle.
Holding handwheel with your left hand disengage handwheel by unscrewing stop motion knob.
—9— Push bobbin to right and press down foot controller.
Machine stops automatically when bobbin is full.
Push bobbin to left, to disengage from wheel.
1
Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread.
Retighten stop motion knob.
If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown, open top cover and use screw driver to adjust the guide for ,— bobbin winding. trouble4c correction
—10— Inserting Bobbin
Place bobbin in case with thread running in direction of arrow.
)
Guide thread into slot ® of bobbin case.
Pulling thread to left,bring it under tension spring then to delivery groove
—11— Adjusting Lower Tension
To test bobbin tension, hang and shake bobbin case as shown.
At proper tension bobbin case will gradually drop a small amount.
To adjust tension, turn adjusting screw with small screwdriver.
Raise needle to highest position.
Leave end of thread of about 10 cm (4”) from bobbin case. Take hold of latch and push bobbin case into hook. Release latch when bobbin case is fully inserted.
J r Drop Feed Lever
The lever is in the right side of shuttle cover. For normal sewing, move the lever to AAA position. To lower feed dog, move the lever __j v: 1/ to II position. This position is used for button sewing, darning and embroidery.
‘— —12—
Allow
extra.
one)
to
Thread
Pass
to
Hook
sion
Lead
to®.
drawn
Pass Thread,
in
Spool
Caution: spool
Open
you.
sition
Set
Raise Threading
left,
left
the
then
thread
disc®.
take-up
thread
about and
it
thread
upwards.
by
pin.
top
take-up
manner
should
to
presser
from
following
to
turning
needle lower
cover
to
needle
thru
15cm
lever
through under
guide
Upper
be
lever
guide
of
foot.
handwheel
guide
and
either
put
to
its
numbers
(6”)
eye
side
the ©
.
put
thread
guide
on
0
Thread
side
of
from
®.
highest
from
spool
of
spool
(use
thread
towards
of
Dthen spool.
-®.
right being
right
left
ten
pin into
po
—13-- 1 Twin Needle Threading
Extra spool pin is packed in accessory tray.
Screw thread extra spool pin in screw hole, place a felt and put another spool.
Thread in the same way as normal threading, except at points ®, © and ®.
At point ©, pass threads separately } to right and left of tension disc. At guide , pass one of threads to right guide and the other at left guide.
At point ®. thread from right guide should be lead to right needle eye, and from left guide to left needle eye.
Allow about 15cm (6’) of thread extra.
Decorative Tucks or Designs
Any stitch can be used with the twin needle for decorative effects. Most attractive are the multiple stitch zig (C blind for fancy C) zag and hem stitch
C C tucks. The satin stitch or tapered zigzag designs in two colors are ef fective for creative trims. C C :: CAUTION: Remember to use no H C’ C> more than 2.5 zigzag width.
CC
—14— Turn
again. Drawing left thread Hold until
a back Pull NOTE: presser (6”) To Failure count Foot Pull poor the stitches, thread fabric. or When reduce Insufficient regulator marks pressure. sewing
seam.
heavy increase
hand.
and
upper
handwheel
out
pressure,
needle the
feeding
or
er-clockwise. Pressure
will
Always
If
sewing
appear jamming.
the foot
lighter left place
to
both
feed
or end
clockwise;
fabric,
Increase
be Up thread
difficulty
do
pressure.
when
pressure
to
the
moves
of
of
brought
dogs
threads
them
place
Lower
left.
multiple on
weight turn
slowly
the
upper
pressure, this
reduce
slowly
starting
the
pressure or
fabric, together
down
in the
and
thread
up
may
towards
presser about
thread
may
guiding Thread
fabric,
fabrics.
and
thickness
in
to
the
regulator
skipped
turn and
to a
reduce
cause
cause
to
under
lower when
15cm
loop.
with
sew
you
foot
the
the
the
up
—1
r E E
— Fabric, Thread and Needle Table
THREAD NEEDLE
Cotton FABRIC REMARKS European Mercerized Covered European U.S. Size Point Polyester Cotton Cotton Silk, Nylon 705 15x1 Style
VERY SHEER: LACE. Silk Loosen up- 70 60 65-70 9 Regular Voile, Chiffon, Net Nylon per tension one or two SHEER; Blouse Crepe, Silk 50-70 60 65-70 Points Lawn, Organdy, Tatfera Nylon 9 Regular LlGHT-WElGHT Crepe, 30 50 Silk 75-80 11 Wool, Brocade, Velvet Regular
MEDIUM: Wool, Silk, Linen, Velvetten, Pique, 30 50 Silk 80-90 11-14 Regular Faille, Terrycloth
HEAVY, Denim, Duck, Heavy 30 CC. Poly. 100 16 Regular Sailcloth Duty
EXTRA HEAVY; Upholstery, Canvas, 30 Heavy C.C. Poly. 120 19 Regular Awning Duty
[KNITS]
LIGH]WEIGHT; Tricot Silk Light 50-70 60 70 9 Power net Nylon Ball
MEDIUM-WEIGHT; Silk Light to Jersey, Double Knit, 30 50 Nylon 70-80 9-10 Medium Power Net C.C. Poly. Ball
Silk Medium HEAVY-WEIGHT,Double 30 50 Nylon 80-90 11-14 knit, Power Net to Heavy C.C. Poly. Ball
Heavy Ball or FAKE-FURS. VELOURS 30 CC. Poly. 90-100 14-16 Duty Sharp
[LEATHER]
VINYLS FILMS 30 50 C.C. Poly. 90 14 Wedge LIGH1TO-MEDIUM- 50 C.C. Poly. 90-100 WEIGHT 30 14-16 Wedge Heavy HEAVY LEATHER 30 C.C. Poly. 100-110 16-18 Duty Wedge
[DECORATIVETOUCHES]
TOP STITCHING Silk twist 100-110 16-18 Regular
MACHINE EMBROIDERY Size 50-70 65-80 9-11 Regular
—16—
Pattern
14
13
12
11 10
1-4
9
8
7JAULAA
6
Setting
IIA\V/A\V/A\\ PATTERN
.
MW
V [11]
4-
A
V
SELECTOR V —
j
L
—17—
AiAJ
AAi
//A\V/A\V/A\\ tvWWyW
‘
NEEDLE TWIN — —
—
OVERLOCK
ZIG
BRIAR
OVERLOOK RICK
STRAIGHT
STRETCH
MULTIPLE BLIND
STRETCH BLIND
ZIGZAG
BUTTONHOLE
STRAIGHT
PATTERN
ZAG
NAME
RACK
HEM HEM 4. STRAIGHT SEWING
Set machine as shown.
Ifyou need to move needle position to left side, set zigzag width control 5.
Pattern Selection Dial
Turn dial to choose pattern. Dial can be turned either to right or to left.
* Always make sure needle is in the highest position when oper ating dial.
Stitch Length Dial
Set dial at indicating point ( ac cording to stitch size required.
For a longer stitch, turn dial to right. For a shorter stitch, turn it to left. a For normal sewing it is set between 2 and 3.
—18— sewing. ward Never as Release down to To (O.4) push Hold it using Double In Lower Piace will order the reinforce it is sewing, lever presser go. reverse inside fabric pull very presser edge fed. to lever
Presser down material. obtain thick seam, the under guiding of foot sewing and foot fabric for edge. lifter materials, wider sew commence foot lifter.
Foot longer fabric lever. up by backwards about gap as
Lifter pushing by reverse far firmly when hand 1cm for as —19—
1>
I
t } Cloth Guide
Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material. Set guide in hole on arm, at right of needle plate, and adjust distance. Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide. Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam.
Sew reverse stitches for reinforce ment at end of seam. Draw fabric to left when sewing is finished.
I
Cut threads with thread cutter behind presser bar.
Adjusting Thread Tension
Test stitch performance on a scrap of material you are going to use. With correct tension (®) upper and lower threads tension is equal + and strong enough to lock both —-;—:i— i) threads in center. — . If upper tension is too tight (loose), + upper (lower) thread lies straight — — along upper (lower)surface of fabric ‘; ((s) ). Correct by turning ten L sion dial. —20—
The
as
be
(size twist
through
but A the Topstitching
when
For tively to
B.
Basting
is
Sewing
fabrics
For should The
seam.
longer area fabrics
areas Usually,
A.
add
Stitch
Applications
heavier
useful
fitting.
this
uses,
Basting/Topstltching
be
Seams
a
triple
same
curved
may
16
strength
normal
of
with
bolder
gathering
use
sure
stitch
stitches,
a
require
one
stitches is
or
depend
usage.
but for
thread
stretch
seam
heavier
3,
the
be
type a
18).
can
to temporary
seams
needle
caution
shorter
but
stitch,
is
stitch
used
use and
long
difficult
with
shorter
such be
in
also
straight
can
and
on
the
at
done
fullness.
a
for
fabrics
elasticity
and
length
two
(size straight
the
a stitch
must Straight
larger length
as
may
lighter
be
topstitching,
longer
seams
to
stitches.
buttonhole
threads
bias
stitch very
fabric
14
threaded
be
remove.
be
length
for
needle
chosen
or
stitch.
require
weight
effec
cut
stitch
to
used
used
prior
may
most
16).
and
the
of
to —21—
— zi 4-
wrong
N
side
/
right
side
-} —22--
To 5. set Set ending sew
tion Zigzag
Set Set Larger extra rear. Make Thread Stitch
straight Better-looking requires
Loosen
prevent
ZIGZAG
machine
machine
control
it
when
in
thread
sure
at
the
of
reverse
upper stitching.
0
Width
less Tension
seam.
number,
you
seam for
needle
at
for
is
as
SEWING
straight
required
upper zigzag
tension placed set
straight
at shown.
ends
Control
is
control,
wider
beginning
for
in
tension
stitching
to
sewing.
unravelling,
slightly.
upper
number.
stitch Zigzag
the
the
and
stitch.
left
posi
than
and and
or 6.
Set
tacks. Determine button Measure Mark Determine
kind ameter Determine
Attach
Completely Place through marking
and Extra of
marking.
a
MAKING
foot
machine
of
of
then
buttonhole
buttonhole
and
thread
material
of
buttonhole
indicates material.
diameter
center
button,
to
of
add
width
push
as
left
Length
Width
BUTTONHOLES
is
buttonhole
0.3cm
shown.
under
of
or placed size
beginning its
foot.
according
back and
foot.
foot.
back.
thickness,
on (1/8”)
thickness
foot
sliding
under
material.
Arrow
passes
for so
line
to
and
part
bar
that
foot
di
of
of
b
—23—
I
/
tl:
diameter__
O.3cm(1/8)
I
thickness
mark ______
n
g
I } Bar tacking: Set pattern selection fl dial to 1 () and sew 5-6 stitches. r___ ;-iL-h1
Left side:Change pattern to 2(21]). Sew left side from front to back un til it reaches end line.
Remember the point of arrow so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes. J
Bar tacking: Change pattern to 3 () and sew 5-6 stitches.
Right side: Change pattern to 4 ([Ia) and sew right side until it E . reaches first bar tack. Quick tinish:To prevent unstitching, set zigzag width at 0 and proceed H for a few stitches. L —24— the Adjustment stitch Adjustment justment balance. that With Buttonhole
“+“ or some
It hole side. closes adjust turn dial buttonhole right If buttonhole If Turning when Turning This Therefore
the the
is
balance
special
the
advised
counter-clockwise.
will
the or
some
stitches stitches
dial
side
length
of
you
stretch
sides right “—“
vary,
the
dial dial
to
dial
can
buttonhole
please
and
move
center
these materials are are
is
to
other
to dial.
clockwise
on on
or
clockwise it side
Density
simultaneously
always
counter-clockwise located is
stitch
attain too
too
closes density
the the
possible
this
sides
refer
as
stitches
and
close
right open, right
this
adjustment
it
a
balance.
turn
dial.
of
left to is
to (+). opens
correct
by
side
side
opens
may
a
together,
to
page possible
turn
right
slightly. this
turning
button
side.
adjust
of
of
vary
left
ad
the the
the
30
to of
—25— Cutting Buttonholes
Stick a needle or pin through bar tacks to prevent over-cutting.
Cut buttonhole along center with buttonhole cutter.
—26— 7.
Set
der Position side that needle button.
dle Make
Run sew SEWING
Stop i upper align
from sew OR machine threads. Draw side
foot.
is
needle of
Set machine 5-6
Remove
one
3-4
aligned machine
needle and stitch, unlocking. and
When thread position. a
zigzag
zigzag
stitches stitch button
as
adjust comes tie ON
at lower with needle work with shown.
ends
a
be when
medium stitches.
BUTTONS
width and knot.
to
zigzag
certain button’s
to botton’s
and foot. through
prevent
comes
material right
needle
control
cut speed
Raise
width
that
hole hole
holes. to off stitches to
is
nee
wrong un
left and
to so
in and of
0,
I
a.
b
/ —28— J Sew Set For fabric. right Sew finish. from Overcasting Set
For
8. OVERCASTING machine thick machine light in carefully side fraying the and weight are same prevents as so as and elastic flush shown. that shown. way material: produces all with edge above. material: stitches edge of fabric neat on of 9. OVERLOCKING
Overlocking stitches make it possi ble to sew and overcast seams at the same time.
Set machine as shown.
Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing and sew.
To prevent edges from fraying, sew so that right side stitches drop out side the edge of material. Then press flat.
n some cases overlocking stitches can be used for overcasting.
—29— I’’ III III Is, III II) III III
10 ___
11
12
13
14
—30—
The
stretch machine special 10.
10 13 12 Adjusting 14 11
stitch Balance In a
When
balance may sake. trations trol If
looks
as the adjust If ing of
Always refer
This after this stretch
neutral
design
the stretch
Rickrack
Straight Overlock Double Briar
in
buttonhole. stitches
STRETCH
slightly
control
is
need
the
dial.
adjuster
dial
design like to
as
and
sewing
making left
utility
the
stitch
position
for stitches. to return
right
page
seems
stitch
you
the
overlock can
to
stretch
toward
the
knit
and shown
toward
stitches
briar
Stretch your stretch
appears adjust
hand
stitches
desire. center should
25
simultaneously
left,
some sewing,
fabrics.
right
to
open STITCHING
(between
Therefore
adjustments
stretch quick
when
are “—“
center
“+“
illustrations,
for stretch adjust
this
design.
side
usually
all Stitch
fabrics,
like
to
built
appearance
until
selection.
the These
until
you
used
control
be
“+“
the
position
the
balance
stretch
please
design in
closed
stitch
move
be
with
illus
con
and the are
you
turn
for
to in hit Application A k the Stitch Topstitch produced to
The B. to.form flowers, As wall turn tapered 5
bouquet-like C.
•
•
• •
• •
\ViA
decorative
Apply and on
zigzag heavy Use The add seams, Use cloth, ier desired zigzag pressed Topstltching/Rlck-Rack Do Use poor
Tapering/Rick-Rack Guide
Procedure:
garment
in
rick-rack
the
hangings.
both
around
weight not
tapering
back
an
narrow
medium also creative
elastic
stitching.
this
stitch embroidered
rick-rack
duty
and braid
pull
your
with
facings for
additional
line
wovens
so
open.
for
to
stitch
for
topstitch
effect. stitch
for fabrics the
triple or overcasting
width
of or
that width
the fabric
rick-rack 0.
of
decorative
stems
the
and push a
attaching
a structural
A and
stitch Rick-Rack
special
to
stitching
decorative
rick-rack
and stitch may
seams
group
zigzag,
wide areas of dial creative
from such
as
pictures and
can
zigzag
knits.
be
will
it
stitch
for
from
will
widths effect. edges
petals the stitching. of
of be elastic. tapered as
lines
may
of
seams. form stitch. that
slowly
stress these
flair. cause inset
heav
terry-
front.
and 0 as is
of
be
of
to
is of of a
a
a
—31—
L
L
I
______
4J —32—
Application
A. The briar The linens Fun used These and This be the that stitch.
of towels left terns decorative stronger appearance. embroidery four mats sewing presser tive The help sewn
sewing needle threading the should tablecloths, technique NOTE:
made and 4-3-2.
the
Fun
should used
two
reverse reverse reverse
lace
ribbons stitch. designs
strands
reverse
is
curtains.
Patterns to
and
guide
can
with
The
reverse
and
binding and
by
done
for
stitches-Briar
the threads. sew
threads
foot. be
Narrow
decorative
is
for
tablecloths.
also
setting
two be
system. straight
placemats a
children
for
effect
applied Simply
stitch stitch used reverse
floss
the
stitch
The more
in
stitch
of
for topstitching
A for
in
sewn
placemats,
stitch
enhancing of
threads
or
transparent
be
hems.
pearl
the
use
through Use cord
decorative
patterns
reverse or
patterns patterns
ribbon.
to can
Decorative
effective
corded zigzag
stitched patterns
patterns thread
edges A
on
with
pattern
stitch yarn clothes.
same
on
accommodate this
for
larger cotton,
Simply
evenly
the
be
through
household I
the
a
decorative
stitch the under
>>>?EJ
This
on
bindings
left patterns. can
two used for produce pleasant
width
napkins,
manner
may
edge can
foot decora
on
can
zigzag
effect.
needle
place-
upper
place
while edge
also
pat
one
the
will the
be
on
be be
of
to Set 11.
under Fold For to
stitches Sew one and
baste
machine
a
BLIND
material
or
slanting carefully,
neater
foot.
two
or
are
iron
threads
as HEM
finish,
as
made
stitches
so
the
shown shown.
that
hem
STITCH
it
on
of
is
straight
fold. and
pierce
hem
beforehand.
preferable
place
edge,
only
—33— ,-
n Correct seam. right side wrong side . Needle is catching edge of fold too much. a Needle is not catching edge of b>4 fold at all
Elastic Blind Hem Stitch
For elastic materials, set machine sew in the same way :::r
—34— 12.
A a smoother Apply Paper Apply and b Double
Apply c
Spandex Use
ball-point
Medium-weight
Light-weight
For
STRETCH
lower
lapped
small
elastic
may
multiple
Very
knit,
(power
feeding.
thread
be
needle
zigzag.
or
jersey.
elastic
triple
laid
zigzag.
abutted
SEAM
fabrics
net)
tension.
under
straight is
fabrics
Reduce
fabrics
essential.
seam.
knits
stitch.
upper
for
—35— I-
‘1 13. ZIPPER SEWING Set machine as shown.
Used for dresses, blouses skirts, trousers, bags, etc.
By using the special zipper foot, zip per sewing can be easily done.
(1) With right sides together, tack O.3cm(’/a”) along seam line of the opening (2) Open the tacked seam and pull out the lower material O.3cm(½”). wrong Place the folded edge over the right side side of the zipper and tack over it. a .1 Li r
(3) Replace the presser footwith the zipper foot on the left of the needle. The zipper foot can be shifted either to the right or the left of the zipper, so the zipper can be sewn without difficulty. Stitch from the bottom to the top. Remove the tacking.
(4) Turn the material to the nght side. Ease the material and the zip per. Tack a measured 1.3cm (1/2”) from the tacked seam as a stiching guide. Shift the zipper foot to the right of the needle. Doublestitch across the lower end, then up along the zipper. Remove the tacking.
—36— 14. SHELL STITCHING
Silk, nylon organdy or similar sheer fabrics are suitable.
Set machine as shown.
Fold edge of material. With folded edge to left, place it under presser foot.
Pull thread ends towards back when starting sewing.
Adjust tension to 8 or 9 to form the shell effects. Always return the tension setting to normal when finishing the shell effect.
Make sure needle misses raw edge of fold when it moves side ways.
—37— —38—
15. Set little. For material For
spring
Insert
chalk, From Mark
direction ing adjusted
Interval
twin
machine
better
PIN
seam
first
second
the
plate
and
needle
and
between
TUCKING
by
of
line quilting
of
appearance,
sew.
arrow. tighten on
moving
first as
with
line,
threading
the
shown.
line
seams
guide
just
pencil
holder. lower
guide
using
sew,
use
under
see can
or
thread
in
tailor’s
guide.
follow sheer
p.14.
be
the
a 16 QUILTING Set machine as shown. 23
Baste layers of material to prevent them from slipping out as you sew.
Attach quilting guide and sew in the same way as pin tucking
—39— L. c
fl+t)
A
A
A
A
A
y
A
A
A
A
—40—
Patching Set 17.
when Place
the Sew Pull part
Set Mending patching.
side. Sew Then A
underneath
piece
machine MENDING
right
thread
machine close
along
the
the
sew starting
edges
side.
of patch
to
two
the
ends
a
the
gauze to
as
in
more Rip sewing. edge
Trim
of
the
reinforce
over
seam
shown.
toward
tear
same
seams
away
of
can
the
on
together
the
back
worn
back be
the way
the
patch
on
placed
or
rip.
as either
worn
part.
side.
first.
left
on
for Darning
Set machine as shown.
Stretch fabric over the hoop or sew with free arm ® according to the part you are going to darn.
S. j
Sew over the worn-out part with closely spaced stitches, guiding material back and forth by hand.
By making turning points blunt, the darned part becomes softer and more flexible.
— 1 —
—42—
I
‘zag
This
Sew
er
presser
away To
to
machine,
of
width
stitch
Sew
baste
as
Place
Draw
Set
19.
cut-out
change
foot
sew
width
an
a
is
from
machine
around
APPLIQUE
few according
design
adjusting
it. cut-out
to
applique
foot
and
very
prevent
and
at
edge
positioning
stitches
direction
and
0.
turn
outline
on
type
small
on
as
of
and
material
to
continue
stitch
base
cut-out,
unstitching.
shown.
material.
of
at
shape
WORK
at
with
base
circles,
end
cut
needle
material
corners,
length
to
it
lift
with
zigzag
material.
and
sewing.
out.
be
Lower
press
stop
zig
just
used
size
and
and or Set Remove To
up,
to For thread Use kind
Trace center Made
handwheel Pull ing
Lower Grasp or threads.
with Start
Continue avoid by To with
use when Lay
machine
reduce
good
three
thin upper finish
hand. and
up
your
satin correct
sewing typewriting sure
zigzag
and
it
presser foot, lower lower
embroidering
embroidery,
embroidery
in color
lower
stitches, upper filling:
thread
design
sewing a embroidery towards stitch. as material
and
thread
thread
thinner along needles width
shown. for
foot
thread
sew thread
holder
lightly.
paper
lower on
with
snip
outline
you
at lifter.
then is
being silk it
several
silk
material
sheer
and is
0.
taut.
guiding
hoop.
by while tension.
screw.
thread. important
off for
underneath
make
of
of thread.
pulled
turning
upper excess
stitches same fabric.
design
hold
and
hoop
two
,—
—43—
/
No. Needle No. No.
9
11 14
120—100 100—80
Thread
60—50
“
/
\ 4
- _____
‘I.,’
—44—
1
a
Remove
Remove
Turn
dog
Brush
Remove
Remove Cleaning
A
and
hours
cleaning
sewing
Your
20.
cleaning
machine
with
latches
oiled
MAINTENANCE
off
a
machine
hook.
performance.
hook
foot
needle
cleaning
day
and
all
once
brush
which
outwards.
dust
and
needs
Clean
race
oiling
a
plate.
and
requires
needle.
and
is
month.
brush.
cover.
hook
for
used
to
a
lint
be
satisfactory
soft
race
for
on
cleaned
regular
cloth.
a
with
feed few Oiling z Use oil manufactured especially for sewing machine use. Other oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam. Apply one drop of oil to hook where friction occurs. Replace hook and race cover care fully, turn handwheel manually to insure correct assembly. - Open face cover and apply oil to — points indicated with arrow.
Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your material and cause some sewing difficulty.
After oiling, run machine for 1-2 minutes to allow oil to penetrate to every part. \__
Remove top cover by loosening screws , and with large screwdriver.
Apply one drop of oil to lubricating points indicated by arrows.
—45— 21.
Skipping Th Irregular fed thread
Breaking
Noisy
PROBLEM
TROUBLE
correctly
material
machine
stitches stitches lower
not
CHART
I
Thread or
the Lint Lower
Size Needle Needle suitable
Too Incorrect
Incorrect Upper Incorrect Pattern
Incorrect
Lint
Check
slightest
cause
like
clean.
not
tension
stuck
much
stuck or
tooth
drawn
thread
thread
not
noise for type not bent
selection
for
size upper
amount lower
feed
in
oil
pick
on
thread
wound
fully
spring
the
PROBABLE
the of
up
tension
or on
the tension of
dog
needle
or
tension
material
threading
binding, inserted correctly
bobbin
the needle
dial
of
feed
in
cotton
evenly
height
thread
race,
hook
too
not
too —46—
and
dog
case
for
swab use CAUSE
tight
on
set
loose
the
thread
in
the
the
material
correctly
and
race
to
material
bobbin
inside
not
may
and cleaning Remove
CORRECTION
P10,
fluff
P12
P P16 P45 P P20 P16 P13
P12
P45 P44 P17 P12
P15
6
6
lint with
brush
a