New Weaves and Shades in Serge •34-

of this Spring Coats Are of the Box Type feature year’s model. The*# little colored accessories are a Are Plain joy f —Skirts and the eye and are exceedingly becomin°8 Narrow. to most figures. Some of the newest are of organs with little bibs for the upper part and an effect at the NEW MATERIAL FROM LONDON apron bottom, which is worn outside in the front. Narrow hold it in place in Waistcoats Add the Needed Touches strings the back and these little strings, tied in of Color, While Heavy Braiding of a bow crisp and fluffy, show out from Varying Type Remains in under^ ASTER is celebrated all over the nenth the coat. Favor. world, not by all the world. Tricolette, which is so though silky and made of About one-third of the people in such beautiful colors, is one of For so long a time now women the the civilized world will observe best materials to use for the come to the tailored coat tailored of have accept the day as a commemoration vest. It is very good when made suit as the very foundation of their up the resurrection of Jesus of Naza- plain at the and wardrobes that it is the first consider- perfectly top finished reth—which is to say that about at the bottom in a series of ation as the reasons change. Espe- very wide one-third of the civilized world is tucks placed one above the other cially is this t»ue of the average wom- and Christian. Roughly speaking, there showing as the box coat falls an whose wishes are controlled by ex- away are about 565,000,000 Christians in the front. It is not possible pediency and determined by absolute to de- and nbout 1,082,000,000 non-Christians. The need. There is no doublt about the Christians are thus classified: Roman Catholics, fact, wmites a prominent fashion cor- 272,860,000; Eastern churches, 120,000,000; Prot- respondent, that American manufactur- estant churches, 171,650,000. The non-Christians ers have developed the supreme art thus classified: Jews, 12,205,000; Mohamme- ar§ in the making of the coat suit. It is dans, 221,825,000; Buddhists, 138,031,000; Hindus, now possible to buy such suits, so 210,540,(XX); Confueianists and Taolsts, 300,830,000; well built, so perfectly designed, that Shintoists, 25,000.000; Animists, 158,270,000; un- few tailors can excel, for as great classified, 15,280,(XX). Care is given to detail as the master The Christians may be geographically classified makers themselves can show. thus: Some critic has said that Europe—Roman Catholic, 183,760,0Easter season is observed by millions spring showing. A new material com- distributed: Europe, 9,- "ho are not even Christians. They do nominally ing from London is a dark blue basket A Striking Frock of Serge and Bead- 250,000; Asia, 500,000; not celebrate the resurrection of Christ, but rather weave, loosely enough woven to be ed Taffeta. Africa, 400,000; North the end of winter, the approach of spring, the be- Both the Greek Christian almost transparent and resembling America, 2,000,000; ginning of life in nature after the long sleep of scribe the beauty and richness of the Latin Christian churches hold the summer crashes of some seasons South America, 35,000; winter. Celebrations of this kind antedate re- new brocades which are used in this elaborate celebrations. One of back, except that it has a smoother Oceanica, 35,000. corded history. When Christianity came into the fashion. They are of almost barbaric the most striking ceremonies is surface. Another geographical world the Christian church adopted and modified splendor in a blending of superb col- celebrated by the Greek church Plain and Narrow Skirt. classification is this: such of these pagan rites of celebration as it could ors with silver and gold threads. in the Church of the Holy Sepul- One suit of this material has the — not abolish. This accounts for the Europe Christians, “Mir- many queer Of course the gilet now and then cher and is locally called same narrow and very plain skirt seen 874,760,000; other rites of the Christian observance of Easter in has a sash to give a draped line over acle of the Holy Fire.” The en- in all of the other models. The coat faiths, 14,050,000; total, various parts of the world. They are pagan rites the hips, such as shown in the London thusiasm is so great that at is of the box type, shorter than most 388.810.000. that had their origin in the remotest past, and model I have mentioned bat several celebrations hundreds of above, have been modified by time and custom and a as the box coat for the Asia—Christians, 28,- worshipers have been crushed to r yet greater other changed meaning. number of models reaches so far be- 700,000; faiths, death. Thus the parade of fashion to Easter morning low the waist line that the sash does 863,500,000; total, 892,- The essential features of the 200.000. church services in the large American cities had not appear and is not necessary. ceremony are the reception and — its origin ages ago in the superstition that failure Africa Christians, dissemination of the “holy tire.” We shall tire of these gorgeous bits to wear at least one new piece of clothing would 9,050,000; other faiths, The fire is kindled in the holy of color os the weather grows warm- bring bad luck during the year. The use of the er 149.871,000; total, 158,- sepulcher, and passed out and demand the simpler things of 921,000. egg as a symbol of new life is far older than Chris- and washable fab- through an opening made for batiste, organdie North tianity. The Easter rabbit is a survival of an old, rics so much a of the summer and America—Christians, 102,700,000; other the purpose in the side of the holy tomb. It is part old superstition. The use of flowers as an expres- so and and linen faiths, 10,285,000; total, 112,935,000. then made use of to light candles with which every crisp fresh. Tique man sion of rejoicing is probably almost as old as i have been blended in a smart South America—Christians, 36,600,000; other worshiper is equipped. The intention is to sym- cleverly himself. The paschal candles are in another faiths, 1,400,000; total, 38,000.000. bolize the descent of the Holy Spirit. The candles waistcoat with the narrowest of black form the bonfires lighted by our remote ancestors satin between the rows Oceanica—Christians, 12,709,000; other faiths, are kept as sacred relics and are relighted only at piping showing to celebrate the arrival of spring. of as 42,929,000; total, 55,625,000. marriages, births and deaths. the tiny pleats of linen, such ap- It Just how the rabbits managed to get into the pear in men’s shirts. It is understood, may safely be said that the allied Christian The reception of the lire is the work of the seems to able to nations will un- Easter celebration nobody be I am sure, that few gilets show any celebrate Easter this year with patriarch. He appears at the head of a gorgeous find out.with any certainty. Anyway, they are collars, but fasten at the shoulders usual solemnity. The life immortal is a comfort- procession of ecclesiastics—bishops, archbishops not properly rabbits; they are hares. Undoubtedly or button around the neck under the ing belief Just now, when the world has been and priests. He leads his followers three times the association of the hare with Easter and its coat in the back just like the little brought face to face with death by the great war around the holy tomb and enters when passing the eggs was introduced here by the Germans, but dickeys in small boys’ sailor suits. as never before. Probably also it will be cele- doorway the third time, leaving his followers the is what none of the anti- linen brated as usual in where they got idea A variation of the gilet is the Germany, for the Germans make standing by. Shortly after the “holy fire” appears quarians have been able to learn to their satisfac- smock, and by a curious fancy it is much ado over Easter. through the opening in the form of a blazing tion. As far as they have gone they figure this really unusual enough to be good look- Easter in Russia. torch. Men have been appointed to snatch the way: The relation between the moon and the ing. For instance, a sky blue linen Even in distracted Russia Easter will be ob- torch. These light their own candles and pass it hare is fairly close. The relation of the moon to smock is worn underneath a box coat served, for the Greek Catholic church mnkes much on to their neighbors; every burning candle be- Easter is very close. Gradually in ancient times of dark blue gabardine. The smock of the celebrutlon and Easter observance is a part comes a train leading on the sacred fire to a hun- V- the hare seems to have become associated with hangs perfectly plain, like a China- of the national life. Certainly Easter of 1918 was dred others. Bobert Hlchens’ description of the Easter and with Easter eggs. man’s coat in the front and shows observed ns usual in of Russia, al- scene is in part this: many parts of the c.«isier antr inc through a slashing in the sides though the annrchist disorders were well under “It came at last. With a fierce gesture as of coy. coat. the •without and Fashionable Blue Suit With No belt or sash confines way. Here is a bit of description from a letter savage exultation the long-haired priest withdrew Easter eggs—fresh laid, dyed sugar Serge like without Santa Blue Linen Smock. straight lines anywhere. written from Kief in 1918: his arm from the hole and held up a great bunch —would be Christmas Claus, Coat Dress in Favor Too. “Easter is the festival of all the of flaming candles. And then delirium seized the the stocking and the tree. And the association of greatest year; and a Is of with rounding jacket and tight The coat dress is favored this more so than Christmas. At 12 o’clock thousands. All the mouths to the egg with Easter easily explained. Many highly infinitely close-packed opened bell sleeves. With this is of earth have used the from coat seen It is in pleas- we drove out to the the oldest let out yells, shrieks and the wild titterings of the old peoples egg year. developed many ‘Larva,’ monastery a vest of surah silk shot as the of the of gray through as, for in a com- and the richest in all Russia. Can a women. All the arms gesticulated with time immemorial symbol germ ing ways, instance, you imagine frenzy with a scroll of darker men of old that the world gray. The bination of blue taffetas and serge, surrounded a 40-foot wall and toward the flames. All the bodies life. The wise taught huge courtyard by smoky yellow vestee is over an All over loosely hung the bust a narrow and immense covered of white to to them. And was hatched from egg. the pagan showing pulled-in petti- gateway, groups large struggled desperately, cruelly get and at the is life. The hips -wrapped in a loose coat of over which is worn all ablaze with for the his and fire be- world It signified fertility and potential the serge, bulldtngs light, with the snow priest dipped torch, suddenly sash fixed in the effect, very baggy, and well be- the blouse of blue silk thickly a the center to rush the church. The place of the egg was therefore firmly long background; building the church, gan through great patri- low the that antedated Christ and waist line. The sleeves are beaded in dull red and blue beads. At doors the inside a thousand can- arch tore out of the holy sepulcher and fell in spring celebrations long open, lighted by finished with a cuff The church found placed inside the the waist there is a narrow belt of the and the of In the the Greek cathedral with the fire in his hands. the Christian Easter. Christian dles, chanting 1,500 priests. blue and made of the as an Easter gray scrolled beads in ends to the were From the balconies near the blue the egg so firmly established symbol falling looped open courtyard thousands of soldiers with star-spangled silk. hot be Therefore the bottom of the skirt. uncovered each a candle. dome masses of candles were let down that it could dislodged. heads, bearing lighted by long Of course of the and it as a tricollete, tricoline and This is one of the best examples To the stands the bell a wonderful cords, were below and were church adopted egg adopted sym- right tower, lighted by priests other knitted fabrics are In the transition of Easter newer than the coat dress, as it has long sleeves structure over 200 feet high. At the stroke of 12 drawn up flaming. Fire encircled the rotunda, bol of the resurrection. all others, and will be smart indeed. and » from a heathen to a Christian festival the tradi- of serge reaching to the wrist, the most wonderful bells in Russia peal forth as three tiers of fire. Through the glare, the stands unbroken. When the col- Gabardine and whipcord are extreme- collar of the taffetas thickly beaded you have never heard bells in America. Thousands smoke, the roaring, the procession bishops tion of the egg fashionable as well, and an old ma- of began, to the Christian the white ly and reaching nearly to the ears. of voices cry ‘Christ is risen,’ and the priests come and priests, accompanied by soldiers, by acolytes, oring eggs immaculate the red for terial, always a favorite and delight- By the this sort of design of- forth and march around the building.” by banner bearers, by canvasses beating the floor stood for the conception; way, for fully exploited this year, is silk poplin. fers an excellent to “make over,’ with their staves. Down the avenue of the blood of the redemption, and the yellow way In the day* before the great war no festivals in This is suited for real un- the dawn #f the resurrection morn. particularly a thankless job and, as a rule, an attracted so many as the cele- banners and muskets and torches came bearded Europe foreigners warm weathea, and makes a women relics of ancient pleasing successful one, but one most bration in Rome of the holy week. It was not and long-haired men in magnificent vestments, It is natural that many queer suit with a silken sheen that is love- undertake nevertheless. and the Armenians, almost like mov- customs should have survived, while many unusual for more than 10,000 visitors to be pres- gorgeous egg and it also the ly. drapes gracefully. Though we shall see more of ent, a large proportion of them being English and ing idols, clad in the jewels of their wonderful have died on the way. For instance, the rulers of I observe a tendency to much braid- short coats than the it does not and the and the no in Easter eggs wholesale. long, Americans—and also Protestants. Doubtless there treasury; withered-looking Copts earth longer Indulge both in la ing, the flat, narrow silken mean that the is not a in magenta, with After the Easter celebration found its way into long coat will be many visitors this Easter season. Easter astounding Abysslnians, partly of row braids, which after row is used for there are which heads and tufts of coars e like hen roost in the was mode, figures Sunday is the culmination of the ceremonies. The shaved great hair, France every country o and placed both on the skirt and coat, cannot the short look a which were taken stand thick, pope himself officiates at high mass in St. Peter’s the gaudy puppets that people nightmare.” senrched for the largest eggs, and also the heavy silken cords are the little coat, and as out the a tribute to the And after the Easter hip length with the most gorgeous ritual. It is after he ex- From time immemorial Christians of Jeru- as king. much used. The now, latter appears in an fashion makers are kind just have observed the events of Christ’s mass in the chapel of the Louvre there were tends his blessing that the papers containing pray- salem passion, high unusual effect in a tan whipcord, three there is no absolute decree as resurrection in and into the cabinet of ers are thrown down from his balcony to be death and complete dramatic brought royal pyramids gilded rows of a heavy silken cord of a dark- length. scrambled for the and it was from Jerusalem that Easter decked with verdure. The chaplain, after by congregation. fashion, eggs er shade being placed side side to we them the by Skirts are much longer, though Jerusalem, the Holy customs spread to other parts of the world. The blessing them, distributed among persons so City. form a collar at the back and extend- hear that Paris makers have them The celebration of this Easter in Jerusalem will earliest record of these observances is in 385. At of the court in the presence of his most Christian ing along the front side of the box much shorter. is it the Eng- strove to realize Why probably be noteworthy. It is the first Easter in that time the Christians by ap- majesty. coat. At the waist the cords pass lish women never seem to be in a rae6 and ritual the events of the of 1, were in great de- j seven consecutive centuries which finds the holy- propriate ceremony In the time Henry eggs a small g® through flap of the whipcord over the of their skirts, but Each morn. In the tower is an old length city permanently freed from the misrule of the last acts in the life of Jesus. event was com- mand on Easter and end ® in an ornamental flat silken along in and year out as far as on the of its with an account of "18d for 400 quietly year Moslem. Mohammedan misrule and oppression memorated, possible, spot royal roll entry, disk at the bottom. conifo ornamental for a sensible length and fashion had their beginning 13 centuries ago, but the Cru- occurrence. The proper passages from the Gospel eggs to be used for purposes Gives the Pulled-in Effect. able and sane? saders held of the were read and were said as Easter.” possession city twice—once appropriate prayers The flat silk braid as they is used to give American women “dress up” under of Bouillon and the clergy and people went in procession from world associates the with Godfrey (1099-1187) again That the whole egg the effect at the as t ® pulled-in bottom of live, never attaining comfort under Frederick II The to Gethsemane, the fact that the Christian (1229-1244). British, un- place place—Bethany, Golgotha, Easter is shown by the skirt, -where one row will be to It placed grow old, but always struggling der General Allenby, were In possession at Easter the sepulcher and Olivet. was during the mid- children in Mesopotamia play the same game at above the other th nearly to the depth one reason for that the character of the stylish. Perhaps of 1918, but fighting was going on in all the sur- dle ages ceremonies Easter of “picking” eggs that American boys do. of the knees. ma Again wider braid ap- is that over here fortunes are on features rounding region and the fate of the city was still changed greatly, taking spectacular In in many places the boys and girls in a ^ Englund pears multitude of small loops so and women den® to the as quickly many in the balance. which have persisted present day. “roll” their colored eggs, just the Washington set in rows along the bottom of the the things they craved in their y0®1’® In normal times business in Jerusalem comes to Tradition with more or less accuracy has fixed children do on the White House grounds. This skirt and coat. ® er days are only able to attnin a stop at the Easter season and religious cere- the course of the Via Dolorosa and the 14 stations White House egg-rolling, by the way, is quite a Of »l course we have all noted that the as they their youth aud Is the on the to the cross as a curious is pass monial dominating interest. It is a at which the chief events way celebration and spectacle worth vest, or °f waistcoat, gilet blouse, what- themselves into an indulgence sort of fourfold celebration. The Moham- occurred. It is followed by thousands of visitors seeing. ever one chooses to call the smart lit- which never permits comfort medans contribute by holding a pilgrimage to the on Easter week. There are many curious customs that obtain at tle andjg;*"* things we will wear underneath too often does away to do with fortunately tomb of Moses. The Jews celebrate the passover. Easter is the principal festival of the Christian Easter that have nothing the day. aur box are coats, the distinguishing dignity.