Portland and Vicinity

Qass.

Book.

•••••••PORTLAND-.--.--

-.^-.-•AND-.-.VlClNlTY^.^.-.-.

•:• AN ILLUSTRATED SOUVENIR AND ALL-THE-YEAR-ROUND GUIDE TO THE CITY OF PORTLAND -^11^ WITH

SKETCHES •:• OF •:• OLD •:• ORCHARD

•:• BEACH, CUSHING'S • AND PEAK'S

ISLANDS, •:• AND •:• OTHER •:• FAMOUS

RESORTS IN THE VICINITY • OF

PORTLAND •:• <> •:• <> <- <> •:• <> •:•

BY EDWARD H. ELWELL.

REVISED AND EDITED BY ROBERT GRIEVE.

^\^^^^'^^^IZ^]^]^^Jc

PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND: J. A. & R. A. REID. PORTLAND, MAINE: LORING, SHORT & HARMON. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. HARPSWELL STEAMB OAT CO MPANY.

FORTY MILES SAIL among the islands of CASCO BAY.

NKW A-yU KI.enANT MTeAMBKM MERRYCONEAG, GORDON, ALICE.

Route from Poitlancl to Orr's Islaiul, toucliiiig at all inlermediatc landings. Leaving Portland at 9 and 10 A. m., and at 2 and 5 p. m.

H. P. DEWEY, ISAIAH DANIELS, Prr>iilenl. <;ru<'rnl .YInnniirr. C. W^ YORK, COAL^WOOD.

Nos. 60 Commercial, 6 Washington, and cor. Danfortii and Ciarl( Sts.,

TELEIPHIOIN-El 68 7-B.

Wood sawi'd and split by steam power. Coal and WikhI at lowest

market prices. Orders solicited. J ^ Z'bt ^vtiMt.

IN PRESENTING THE THIRD EDITION OF PORT-

LAND AND VICINITY, WE OFFER NO APOLOGY. THE UNDOUBTED EXCELLENCE OF THE WORK,

AMPLE . WITHOUT . BEING . TRIVIAL . IN . ITS

DETAILS, ACCURATE, BUT NEITHER DULL NOR DRY, THOROUGH BOTH AS TO HISTORY AND DESCRIPTIVE MATTER, WITH THE LENGTH OF

TIME WHICH HAS ELAPSED SINCE THE ISSUE

OF THE LAST EDITION, IS SUFFICIENT REASON

FOR A REPUBLICATION. THE TEXT HAS BEEN

CAREFULLY REVISED, AND THE PEN-SKETCHES OF THE CITY VERIFIED AND CONFORMED TO THE MOST RECENT CHANGES AND IMPROVE- MENTS. SPECIAL CARE HAS BEEN GIVEN TO

THE MANUFACTURING AND BUSINESS INTER-

ESTS. WE TRUST THE GUIDE MAY PROVE A SOURCE OF PLEASURE AND PROFIT TO BOTH THE CITIZEN AND THE INQUIRING STRANGER.

Eije tluftlisijeis. PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

tar Matches. ^appanted

' fHG SaFCST, iURBST AND icST FOE HOME USE OR EXPORT.

MANDFACTCRED ONLY BY

Portland I Star S Match I Co.,

[Eatalili«hec1 1830.] B, TtirKlfti 4 ^^,, PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS,

<)7 1-3 Kxclifiiige, and io8 Mtirket StreetM,

ItltOW'N TIII'IfSTON. ;i:0. II. WATKINS. WE PUBLISH

History ok Norway, Maim:, roval octavo, 676 pp. III., (.sheep. $5.00), cloth, $4.00 History oi' the i6th Maink Regi.mk.vt, by Maj. .\. R. Small, 300 pp., III. 1.50 History of PARsoNsriELi), 100 III., 516 pp., cloth, .3-.SO Wii-Lky's Anti-Slavery History, 121110, 514 pp., III., 1.50 Portland City Directory, Annual, 2.50 Crawford's White Mountains, 228 pp.. III. 1.50 Genealogies, b_v mail, Thurston 600 pp., .';-.'; i.n Greene's CJuestions Surgery, 1. 00 York Deeds, 4 vols., per vol., 5.00

York Wills, i vol., 965 pp., . 5.00 The Stanley Family, 352 pp., III., . 3.00 The Marston Genealoc.y, 604 pp.. III., clolh, A Tale of Home and War, 200 pp., 1.30

THE LARGEST BOOK AND JOB PRINTING ESTABLISHMENT IN MAINE. CONTENTS.

C Asco Bay, •-.... q

Portland : A Glance at its History, • . . . 8

topographt, . . . . . _ _ 9 j Distinguished Portlanders, • • • • . 25

"Walks Abodt Town :

Square to the Eastern From Market Promenade, . . . 38 Square to the Western From Market Promenade, . . 55 Square to India and From Market Commercial Streets, . . 70

Some New Features of the C'it\-. The Union Station, •••-.. 86

The Portland Club and its New House, . . . .87

Harbor, • • Improvements in the • . . 88 Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument, ..... ;)0

The Longfellow Monument, • • • . . 90

Notes on the Business of Portland, . . . . .91 The Islands, ...... io7

Cushing's Island, ...... 109

Peak's Island, . . . . . • . 114

Island, . . . . . Long . .122

Diamond Island, ...... 124

Little Chebeague, ...... 125

Harpswell, ...... 125 K.KCURSiONs IN the Bay, ...... 127 Drives in the Vicinity:

To Prout's Neck, through Cape Elizabeth and Seurboio' . .128

Along Falmouth Foreside, . . . . .134 To Evergreen Cemetery and Pride's Bridge, through Deeriug . 136 Old Orcblakd, ••..... 147

Railroads : Boston and Maine, ...... 152

Portland and . . . Ogdensburg, . .152

Portland and Rochester, . . . . • . . 155 Grand Trunk, ...... 156 Maine Central, ...... 154

Strangers' . . . . Gdide, . . .158 Hotel List, ••.•-... 160

Table of Distances, ...... 162 THE NEW LIBRARY:BUILDiNG, CONGRESS STREET : ; — .

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page •• And thu Grass Literallv Grew upon the Trefethen'e Landing Whiirves" 15 The Outer Shore, Kock Bound Park. Hreakwater Light 108 Perkins', J. W. & Co., Emporium Catholic Cathedral 49 Portland In 1633 fiasco Bank 74 Portlanii of To-day. (Janal Bank 79 Portland Light Chestnut Street Church. 43 Portland Savings Bank Congress Street, from Market Square 116 Portland Stone Ware Company's Works. Congress Street M. E. Church 53 Portland Club, Diamond Island Congress Square, from head of Free Street. ^S Portland Harbor Corner Middle and Exchange Sts 39 Post^Oltice Commercial Street 8S Preble Hou?e Cus'om House 83 Prout's Neck Cushlng's Island Scene at end of Custom House Wharf... The Beach and the Willows 11) Sea Shore House. Old Orchard. A bit of the Shore 110 State Street, from Congress Ottawa House 115 State Reform School One of the Walks 113 Steamer John Brooks, for Boston White Head. 113 St. Stephen's Church Deering's Bridge 130 Swedcnborgian Church Deering Mansion 137 "Two-Lights

Evergreen Cemetery : Union Mutual Building Entrance to 141 United state) Hotel 143 View in Union Station . The Ponds 143 United Slates Hotel Hon. Wm. Pitt Fessenden Monument . 14:3 Uni versalist Church, India Street Samuel Humeri 's Monument 143 Weslbrook Seminary The Summer House 143 Williston Church Evergreen Circle 143 The Tombs 144 PORTRAITS: Exchange Street, from Middle to Fore 78 Falmouth Hotel 71 John \. Poor First Baptist Church 47 Ex-Chief-Justice Ether Shepley. First Church in Portland 10 J udge George F. Shepley First Hotel in Portland 10 Hon. William Pitt Fessenlen — First National Bank 73 Hon. Israel Washburn, jr First Parish Church 41 Gen. Neal Dow Goudy & Kent's Bakery 105 JohnNea, Heading of First Newspaper Published in Henry W. Longfellow Maine 13 N. P. Willis High Street Church 49 Rev. Dr. Edward Payson High Street, from Congress Square 39 Hon. William Willis King's Mark 13 Hon. John B. Broivn Lincoln Park 48 Hon. William W. Thomas Longfellow House — — — 56 Longfellow, Birthplace of 81 PRIVATE RESIDENCES: Main Koad to Massachusetts 9 Maine Savings Bank 73 Mrs. Harriet Small Marine Hospital 135 Former Kosidence Judge George F. Shep- Mechanics' Hall.. 57 ley Merchants' Bank 76 Gen. Neal Dow Middle Street before 1866 IB Former Residence Hon. John B. Brown. . Middle Street in Ruins 19 Former Residence T. C. Hersey. Middle Street, from Union to Cross 70 Former Residence A. and S. E. Spring. . Middle Street, from Plum to Exchange 75 Holman S. Melcher New Library Building Frontispiece Ruggles S. .Morse "Oaklawn," former residence of Capt. J. L. A. C-oudy B. Coyle ItO former Residence oJ Hon Israel Wash- Observatory .53 burne,Jr.. . . Ocean House 133 Charles S. Fobes , Payson Memorial Church 46 Philip H. Brown Peak's Island J. P. Halmer " Greenwood Garden '* 117 J. S. Ricker PORTLAND AND VICINITY. THE Maine Central Railroai

IS THE GREAT THOROUGHFARE OF MAINE,

Reaching all the Summer Re^orts and Principal Cities and Towns in the State and th Maritime Provinces. Mt. Desert,

Moosehead and the Rangeley Lakes, Poland Springs, St. /

drews, St. John, Halifax,

Boston, aad Mt, Desert I

wliirh has revived the sobriquet of the "Cyclone, " makiu? a run of SOU lullett in 600 luinutes, 137 of which, bel H:iO»(ur ami PurtUud, Ih wltbuut a stop, or one of the lonKest runs in the world, and it l8 ackuowleil»red th<>M truiiiH have done luure to brhiu- Mahie and the Provinces before the publi.: than anytbfuK berctufori; accouipUshe

Finest Piilliiiaii Cars on Principal Trains, both llufl'et and Vestibule.

The Portlanil, Mt. Desert and Machias Steamboat Gompa ™'3ii:-5;MT. DESERT,'"'

'Pile Ktetiri^ier CITY OF RICHMOND,

Captain Wm. E.'.Dennison, leaves

PORTLAND FOR BAR HARBOR AND MACHIASPOI Every Tuesday and Friday

be obUluoil at prhioipsl tluket-ofBoos throUKliout tlie couutry. Kostoii t: Mai Through Tickets Maine Oeiitral foldora kIvo fall partioulara aa to Train Service.

vtvMOK ti;(;kkk. f. k. boothbv, (1 iral Miiiiri»fiT. I'ortliuiil, Me. QeiionU Taascnifer AkoiiI. I'urtla <

ii0fJiamlii ^uh piflMltf

CASCO BAY.

The earh' voj-agers, as they skii'terl along the shores of JMaiiie, in the twilight honrs of discovei\v, were charmed with its secure harbors and noble rivers, where sheltered groves and grass}- banks lured them to the land. In the attractions of calm waters, and sunn}' isles clothed with a luxuriant forest, the bay of which we write excelled all others. Captain John Smith, the first of Maine tourists, in his account of his famous summer trip along our shores, in 1614, thus describes it: "Westward of Kenuebec is the Country of Aucocisco, in the bottom of a deep bay full of many great isles, which divide it into many great harbors." This was Gasco Bay, the present name of which is a corruption of the Indian word Aucocisco, which, according to some authorities, signifies " a resting place," though others give it the interpretation of C)-a»e or /te?-on. In view of the many halcyon retreats from toil and care which its islands afibrd, the former would seem to be the more appropriate designation, though the w.ater fowl indicated by the latter still frequent the bay. One can imagine the delight, when this laud was new and clothed with the glamor of surprise, of sailing from the surges of the Atlantic into the sheltered roadsteads of this bay, along the green shores of its forest-crowned islands and out-reaching peninsulas, far into the heart of the land, where the placid waters reflected in their cool depths the verdant foliage which over- hung them, in the silence and seclusion of a solitude unbroken save by the songs of birds of varied plumage flitting through " the forest primeval." No element of beauty was wanting to this miniature archipelago, and the native inhabitants, who had an eye for sunny spots and grassy glades, made it a place of frequent resort. They found in its waters an inexhaustible supply of provisions, and the evidences of their feasts still remain in the heaps of clam-shells found on the shores of the islands.

Here is a little bay, extending from Cape Elizabeth to Cape Small Point, a distance of about eighteen miles, with a depth of about twelve miles, more thickly studded with islands than any water of like extent on the coast of the United States. Unlike the low, sandy islands of the Massachusetts coast, these are of the most picturesque forms, while bold PORTLAXD AXD VICIXJTY. lieadlainls aiul peninsulas jut far out into tlie waters. Tliere is the greatest l)Ossible varietj- in the forms and groujnng of these islands. Some lie in clusters, some are coupled together by connecting sand-bars, bare at low water, while others are solitary and alone. Nearly all of ihem are indented with beautiful coves, and crowned with a mingled growth of maple, oak, beech, pine and fir, extending often to the water's edge, and reflected in many a deep inlet and winding channel. In the thick covert of the firs and spruces are many green, sunny spots, as sheltered and remote as if far inland, while beneath the wide-spreading oaks and beeches are pleasant walks and open glades. These islands are of all sizes, from the little rockj' islet, covered by the sea at high tide, to those which contain thousands of acres and hundreds of inhabitants. Though some of them present bold headlands, there is nothing barren or desolate in their aspect. For tlie most part they rise like mounds of verdure from the sea, forest-crowned, and from their summits one may behold on the one hand the waves of the Atlantic, breaking almost at his feet, and on the other, the jjlacid waters of the bay, spangled by multitudi- nous gems of emerald, while in the dim distance he discerns, on the horizon, the sublime peaks of the White Mountains. It is imi)Ossible to conceive of any combination of scenery more charming, more romantic, more captiva- ting to the eye, or more suggestive to the imagination.

It is a popular legend that the islands in Casco Bay number three hundred and si.vty-five, a compliment to the days of the year which is also commonly attributed to Lake George, Lake Winnepesaukee, and several

other bodies of water. Whence it had its origin it is impossible to say,

since numerous as are these islands it is not difiicult to count them. If we take down the chart and run our eye over it we see the islands fall naturally into three divisions or ranges, which we will set down in their order, beginning each with the island nearest Portland, and running

eastward : Inner Range.—Mackay's, The Brothers (2), Ten Potind, Clajjboard, Sturdevaiit, Basket, Cousins, Littlojolin's. I.aiieV. Mnshier's('2),Crab, Biljber's,

Silver (4), two unnamed. Middle Ranue.—Hog or Diamond (2), Cow, Crow Knob, Chebeague

(•2), Crow, Irony, Goose Xest, Little Green, French, Whaleboat (2), Goose

(2), Goslin (2), Shelter, Birch, White's, four unnamed. OrTEU Ran(;e.—House, Cushing's, Ram, Peaks', Piiin]ikin Knob, Over- set, Marsh, Long, Step))ing Stones (.3), Hope, Crotch, Jowcll's, Sand, (^uter

Green (2), Broken Cave (3), Bates', Ministerial, Stave, Little Bangs, Stock- man's, Whale Rock, Haddock Ledge, Mark, Eagle, U"pi)er Flag, Horse, Birch, Haskell's, Turnip, Jaquisli, Bailey's, Orr's, Jebaskadiggin, Pon

No. 2, Cedar (6), Elm (2), Ragged, Bold Dick, White Bull, Little Bull,

Sisters (2), Mark No. 2, Brown Cow, Gooseberry, Wood (2), Burnt Coat, PORTLAXD AND VICINITY.

Jameson's Ledge, Lower Flag, Horse No. 2, Malaga, Bear, Rogue, one unnamed, Jenny's, Yarmouth, two unnamed, Pote, Hopkins', Batenian's, Long

No. 2, three unnamed. Here are one hundred and twenty-two islands and islets, and we have perhaps left uncounted many rocks and reefs which might be made to swell the number, but it probably would not extend beyond one hundred and

' thirty-six. Many of the names of these islands are curious. Some are derived from early firoprietors, others owe their origin to some trifling incident or a characteristic feature, while a few, like Chebeague and Jebaskadiggin, are of the aboriginal tongue. They are all homely and unromantic enough, but are not easily changed. Hog Island, which, though so inelegantly named, is one of the most beautiful in the bay —

"The gem of Casco's lovely isles,"

has been so called since 1634, though it is now beginning to be known as Diamond Island, a name long applied to the largest of its many coves.

The bay is almost as remarkable for its peninsulas as for its many islands. At its western extremity, between the sheltered waters of Fore Iliver and Back Cove, extends the Neck on which Portland is built. At the eastern end the long narrow peninsula of Harpswell stretches far out into the quiet waters, flanked by many islands. The land here is very much broken, the islands cluster thickest, and the mainland reaches out many fingers, between which creeks and inlets and tidal rivers extend far inland.

The shore is fringed with picturesque " Points." The Presumpscot River brings down in a full stream, the waters of Sebago Lake, and discharges

them at a point a little north of Portland harbor. The waters of the bay present as many attractions to fishermen and sjDortsmen as do the islands to the seekers after health and recreation. The

early voyagers found them full of fish. Hither came Capt. John Smith in pursuit of whales, though he caught not many. The early settlers, when they met to talk over the wonders of the new land, told marvellous tales of the strange creatures found in the bay. Jocelyn, who was here in 1639, tells of one Mitton, a great fowler, who encountered a triton, or mereman, in its waters. As he was fetching a compass about a small island for the advan-

tage of a shot, the creature laid its hands upon the side of the canoe, where- upon the said Mitton actually chopped one of them off with a hatchet, and

he solemnly averred that it was in all respects like the hand of a man. The triton presently sank, dyeing the waters with its purple blood, and unfortu- nately his like has never since been seen. Jocelyn, too, makes the first mention of the sea serpent on our coast, seen coiled up like a cable on a rock at Cape Ann. This monster must therefore be considered an ancient inhabitant of our waters, and Casco Bay is one of its favorite haunts. It has frequently been encountered off Cape Elizabeth, and we have good

authority for saying that it has even paid our harbor a visit within a few years past. G I'OUTL.WD ASD rJCI.MTY.

On a ledge in tlie inner bay, off the shore of Falmouth, the seals still breed, and sport in the calm waters. More real is the presence of the pug- nacious sword-fish, in tlie pursuit of which our fishermen find not only sport but profit, since its flesh is by many esteemed a delicacy, and finds a ready sale in our market. Of the other edible fish there is great abundance and variety. The earliest inhabitants made great profit by catching fish and drying them on Richmond's Island, and for more than two hundred years House Island has been the scene of similar operations. Looking from some headland, on a bright summer day, it is a beautiful sight to see, on the horizon, the white sails of the mackerel fleet standing out against the blue sky. Here, too, the oleaginous porgy is pursued by steamers, while the fishermen catch for the market, cod, pollock, hake, haddock, and halibut. Along the rocky shore the cunner or sea-perch, best of pan fish, is caught, and furnishes the substantial dish of many a feast on the rocks, while in the creeks and inlets the silvery smelt abounds. Of sea fowl there is still no lack, though they are not so abundant as fifty or even twenty-five years ago, when off Bald Head, an outer promon- tory at the south-eastern extremity of the bay, flocks might be seen passing for days together. From the middle of April to the middle of May great numbers of old squaws (pin-tail ducks) fly into the bay in the morning, through llussey's Sound, to feed, and out again at night, to rest on the ocean. Then the gunners station themselves in boats, in a line from Long Island to Peaks' Island, and shoot at the birds as they fly over. A few geese are occasionally shot, but the shooting of coots (surf or velvet ducks) affords more extensive sport than any other during April and May. These are shot over decoys and in flying past points of land and over bars. Bald

Head is a great resort of sportsmen, for there the coots, which will not fly over the mainland when migrating, may be shot in passing. Walking along the solitary outer shores the lonesome cry of the loon is often heard, and they are sometimes seen in flocks of five or ten. The long legged heron may be met at times stalking .along the shore in search of fish, and the ospray, or fishing e.agle, builds its nest on some tall tree, and catches its jjrey by darting upon them when near the surface of the water. For many years this bay has been a pleasure ground, the resort of lovers of the picturesque, as well .as those in pursuit of fish and game. IIow manj' j)leasant .associations cluster around the recollections of the pic-nic parties at Diamond Cove, or fishing excursions farther down the bay. Year by year the stream of summer visitors increases. An afternoon trip to the islands is the daily recreation of our citizens in the summer season. The extension of our railroad system now enables excursion jiarties, numbering many hundreds, to come from points fifty miles distant in the country and si)end a day in the enjoyment of the refreshing sea breezes of our bay, letuniing home at night. From Canada and other distant points come POETLAXD AND VICIXITY.

Visitors who make a longer stay, filling to overflowing the immerous hotels and boarding-houses on Cushing's, Peaks', and Little Chebeague Islands, and finding health and recreation in sea bathing and fishing. Parties cami)ing out dot with their white tents the shores of Little Diamond, Cushing's and Peaks', and the more distant and secluded islands of the bay. In the height of the season there liave probably been at times as many as five hundred people camping out on the islands of Casco Bay. The building of summer cottages has begun, and before the lapse of many years it must become one of the most frequented summer resorts on our coast. Many steamers now fret its waters in the summer season, and fleets of pleasure yachts frequent its secure roadsteads.

In beauty of scenery, in wide ocean views, healthful breezes, and facilities for boating, bathing and fishing, it offers a most desirable place for tlie recreation of visitors, and the happiness of its permanent inhabitants. How delightful to sail through this enchanting bay, steering now hither and now thither, as caprice impels or as perpetually changing views attract us. We may thread the intricate channels of the lower bay, where land and water mingle in delightful confusion ; we may sail through the calm waters of Broad Sound, past the out-lying Jewell's Island, where it is said Capt. Kidd buried a portion of that great ill-gotten fortune which he scattered so lavishly over the world; we may pass into Luckses Sound in view of the lofty, forest-crowned Hope Island, and entering the passage between Long Island and Great Chebeague, — largest of the group, containing over two thousand aci-es, — touch at Little Chebeague, and so skirting the shores of Long Island and crossing Hussey's Sound, catching a glimpse of Diamond Cove, that dimple of beauty in a Hog's snout, pass through Hog Island Roads, Avith the green shores of Peaks' Island on one hand and the I'ocky wall of Hog Island on the other, and entering Portland Harbor see, at its head, the city, like " —^a sea Cybele, fresh from oceau, Kisiiig with her tiara of proud towers, At airy distance, with majestic motion, A ruler of the waters aud their powers." PORTLAND.

HISTORY.

Settled in 1632 -, Population, by census of 1870, 31,418; by census of 1880, 33,810; Population for 1887-8, estimated as per school report, 41,000. Area, 1,666 acres; including islands, 4,000. North latitude 43 deg., 39 rain., 27 sec; west longitude from Greenwich, 70 deg., ]"> min., 40 sec. Assessed valuation, 1887: real estate, $21,850,500; personal estate, §11,901,540 — total, $.33,752,040. The two centuries and a half which have elapsed since the settlement of Portland maj- be divided into five periods, each ending with an

Portland in 1632, with Cleove and Tucker building the first tog, < - important event in its history. The first extends iVoui ^^jjjt 1632 to 1690, and covers the time of settlement and of destruction by the

Indians. At its beginning we find George Cleeve and Richard Tucker, driven b}- .John Winter from the proprietors' lands at the mouth of the Spurwink, making a new home for themselves on the sliores of the wooded peninsula jutting out into the quiet waters sheltered b^' Capo Elizabeth, on which now stands the city of Portland. Cleeve lauded on the beach now covered by the made land of the Grand Trunk Raihvaj', at a point a little east of the foot of Hancock street, where a small brook made its way into roliTLAXU AXD VWINITW the bay. Here he built the first house and planted the first corn, his field extending westward to Clay Cove. Our first settler was a restless, ambi- Richard tious and self-willed man, long prominent here ; his partner Tucker was of a more quiet disposition, and attended to the trading, while Cleeve devoted himself to public affairs. At first they were squatters, but in 1637 Cleevc went to England and obtained from Sir Ferdinando Gorges, the proprietor of this part of Maine, a grant of the peninsula on which he had built, and other neighboring lands and islands. These he proceeded to parcel out to settlers who sought the place, and a scattered community grew up on the edge of the wilderness. It was long without government, and the morals which prevailed were not of the highest order. The people devoted themselves principally to fishing, and cheating the Indians in the purchase of their furs. Beaver skins constituted their chief currency. They were roughly clad and coarsely fed. They lived in temporary shelters of logs, filled in with clay, or in houses of one story, with thatched roofs and wooden chimneys. The impenetrable forest was behind them, the open ocean before them, and this was their highway and the chief source of their sustenance. They had no roads, and when they traveled by land to Massachusetts they crept along the seashore on the beaches, which were the first highways. The settlement came to be known as Casco. In 16.58 Massachusetts usurped the government of this territory and gave the name of Falmouth to the town, but this portion of it continued to be called Casco Neck until its incorporation as Portland in 1786. Falmouth comprised, in addition to the Neck, the territory now occupied by the towns of Cape Elizabeth, Deering, Westbrook and Falmouth. Of course with Massa- chusetts rule came the imperative order for the settlement of a minister, and the people built the first meeting-house on the point now occupied by the Portland Company's works. There officiated the Rev. Mr. Burroughs, a man so amiable and generous-hearted that the enlightened people of Salem afterwards hanged him for a wizard. The settlement grew but slowly. In 1675 there were only forty families in town, of which but four or five lived on the Neck, then mostly covered with a dense forest. During these forty or fifty years the Indians, who from the first had received them hospitably, dwelt in peace with these new comers. In return, all along this coast, they had been outrageously wronged by vagabond and unprincipled white men, and at last the day of wrath came. In 1675 King Philip arose to avenge the wrongs of his 10 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

people, and in the following 3'ear the blow fell upon Falmouth. All the settlements in the town were ravaged, and the inhabitants who had not previously soiio;ht luAif^e in more secure places were killed or carried into

^-^3^ -^ captivity, and the place was entirely destroyed. The town remained desolate until the peace of 1678, when the inhabitants began to return and build up the waste places. Fort Loj-al, the largest fortification on the coast, was erected on a roek^- eminence near the foot of India Street, where the round- house of the Grand Trunk Railway now stands, and Falmouth became a frontier post. Government commissioners reallotted the land to new settlers, and

the old proprietors quarreled with them about it. A new element in the

population was added bj- the accession of a party of French Huguenots. The town began to prosper again. Mills were set up and inroads were made on the forest. Trade in fish and lumber was opened with the towns in Massachusetts. Roads were laid out, though thej' were mere foot-paths through the forest, — no vehicles having been introduced. In 1681 the first tavern was opened, and licensed to sell spirituous liquors, the intercourse up to this time having been so limited that no inn was needed. In 1688 the population had increased to six or seven hundred, comprising eighty families, twenty-five of whom were living on the Neck. Then came the second Indian war, caused partly by the failure of the English to

fulfil their treatj' stipulations with the In- dians, and partly by the instigation of the French. In 1689 the timel3' arrival of Major Church, with a force of volunteer troops and friendly Indians, saved the town from destruction. A battle was fought on the farm of Anthony Brackelt, under Bram- hall's Hill, in which the Indians were de-

feated and driven off. the whites suffering a loss of eleven killed and ten wounded. Next year, 1690, the French and Indians came down five hundred strong, killed Lieutenant Clark and his scouting party of thirteen men on Munjoy's Hill, captured Fort 'Loyal after a siege of five days, and carried Captain Davis, commander of the fort, and his surviving garrison captives to Quebec. Thus the Neck was again made desolate, became a thoroughfare for the .savage and a resort for beasts of prey, and for many years was known only as "deserted Casco." The war continued until 1698, after which a few old settlers straggled back to their desolated homes. The center of population and defence now shifted to New Casco, a point of POnTLAXD AXD VICINITY. H land east of the Presumjjscot, where a fort was built in 1700. In 1703 the war broke out again, and in that year twenty-five persons were killed by the Indians on Purpooduck, at Spring Point, near where Fort Preble now stands. The town was now entirely deserted of inhabitants, and did not become the scene of further cruelties during the war. The second period begins with the resettlement of the town in 1715, and ends with its destruction by Mowatt in 1775. This was the era of colonial growth and prosperity. In 1717 one Ingersoll built a hut on the Neck, where he lived some time alone, being thence called Governor Inger- soll. In 1718 twenty families were settled there in a compact and defen- sible manner. They clustered principally about the foot of India (then called Broad) street, and eastward along the beach where had stood the houses of Cleeve and Munjoy. This continued to be the court end of the town until after the peace of 1783. The second meeting-house was erected at the corner of Middle and India streets, where Rev. Thomas Smith, in 1727, commenced his long ministry of over sixty-eight years. When the town was incorporated in 1718 the Neck, above Clay Cove, was all forest and swamp. A brook flowed from the northern part of Hampshire street into the cove, which was crossed by bridges on Fore and Middle streets, under which boats passed. There are men now living who remember the old bridge on Middle street. The passages were at first only trails or foot-paths through the woods, but gradually grew into streets, as vehicles requiring them were introduced, and they were named the Fore, the Middle, and the Back streets, the name of the latter, after the Revolu- tion, being changed to Congress street. In 177-t the territory was occupied as far westward as Center street, the upper portion of the Neck still being covered with woods ; this was at the close of a period of sixty years of steady growth. The Indians, broken and scattered, made peace in 1725, which lasted for many years ; they dwindled away by death and by emigr.a- tion to Canada. They took ]iart .against the English in the French wars of 1744 and the following years, and Falmouth was frequently alarmed by their depred.ations in the neighborhood, but was never again seriously threatened by them. In 1755 it had ceased to be a frontier post, and Avas free from the .alarm and danger to which it had formerly been ex]iosed.

Tlie people devoted themselves to the improvement of their condition ; new mills were erected, and the forest as well as the sea was made a source of profit. At one time in the year 1727 there were thirty vessels riding at anchor in the harbor of Falmouth. Commeixe was reviving. The articles

of export were fish, fur, and lumber. Population gradually increased ; in 1753 it numbered 720 souls on the Neck, and in the whole town, 2,712, including 21 slaves, P.arson Smith owning one. In 1774 the population of the Neck had increased to 2,000. The prosperity of the town was retarded by the frequent wars with the 12 VOUTLAXD AM) VICIXITY.

French, into the spirit of which, however, our people heartily entered. They were Englishmen, and hated, of all things, the French, the Indians, and the Devil these ; were their Trinity of evil. They joined with M:iss:i- chusetts in the capture of Louisburg, sending a company of iifty men, easily enlisted. They had their dark and troubled times, often being in danger of starvation from their neglect to cultivate the land. Corn was inii)orted from Xorth Carolina, and potatoes from Massachusetts, and the arrival of a cargo of the former was often an occasion of great rejoicing. In 1737 Parson " Smith writes in his journal : There is no little wood, corn ; sad complaints everywhere." At such times the sea was a great resource. In 1741 the Parson writes again : " The fish have but now struck in ; a great relief to people almost perishing." Still the town was growing, and trade increased. The English navy was sujjplied with masts from our forests, the best pine trees being reserved for that purpose, and marked with the broad arrow, which indicated that they were not to be taken for other ])urposes by the settlers. A trade with the West Indies also grew up. On November 1, 17G6, six large ships were lying in the harbor. At the commencement of the Revolution

"2, 555 tons of shipping were owned in Portland. With the development of trade, and the increase of wealth, distinctions of rank obtained between the different classes of the community ; The Kings Mjrk "tlic quallty " looked down u])on those engaged in mechanical employments, and disported themselves in cocked hats, bush wigs, and red cloaks. Dandies made themselves gorgeous in embroidered silk vests with long ])Ocket flaps, and ruffles on their breasts and over their hands, and even little boys had their heads shaved and wore wigs, as well as buckskin breeches, common to all. In the midst of increasing refinement and wealth came the great trial of the Revolution. Our ])eople, who had fought the Indians and the French, were now brought into deadly conflict with their own countrymen. They were patriots and stood u]) boldly for their rights as freemen. When the news of the battle of Lexington reached Falmouth a strong com])any was immediately sent off to Cambridge ; when the hated stamps arrived they were seized and burned ; when the tax was imjio.sed upon tea it was resolved, in ])opular assemblage, "that we will not buy nor sell any India tea whatever"; when the English government closed the port of Boston in 1774, the bell of Faliiidutli mecting-lionse was ihuIIUmI and tolled funereally POIiTLAXD AND VICINITY. IS

from sunrise to sunset. There were Tories in the town, but tliey were out- numbered and put down. For these and other acts of patriotism the town suffered a terrible doom. Piqued at his capture and detention here the j)re- vious spring, by a party of militia from Brunswick, Captain Henry Mowatt returned in October, 1775, with a fleet of five war vessels, and on the eighteenth day of that month, a hundred and six years ago, laid the town in ashes. It was always regarded by the townsmen as his personal act, and it was one of great barbarity. The citizens nobly refused to give up their arms, and Mowatt opened his batteries on the defenceless town, and not content with this sent parties on shore to fire the houses. The people lied in terror from their homes, taking with them what they could carry of their household goods. All the compact part of the town was destroyed, em-

bracing 414 buildings, the whole loss being estimated at about £55,000 ; only 100 dwelling-houses wei"e left standing, many of which were much

T h:e'

Ja.n\tary («o.T) S A U R DAY. I. 1^85. (vol. 1_;

Miniature facsimile of Heading of first Newspaper published in Maine. damaged. The place was again deserted, many of the inhabitants removing to the country, and the few who remained among the ruins suffering great privations. Thus, for the third time, the town was made desolate, and so ends the second period of its history. The third opens with the peace of 1783^and ends with the war of 1812. It was the period of commercial expansion and rapid increase of wealth, ending with the first of those financial disasters of which the country has since had frequent experience. With the establishment of national independence new energies were awakened, and new ideas began to prevail. Distinctions of rank and of dress gave way before the democratic spirit of the times ; cocked hats, bush wigs, and breeches passed out, and pantaloons came in. Captain Joseph Titcomb created quite a sensation when he returned home from the South, in 1790, wearing the latter form of the nether garment, — the first seen here. A sudden impulse to business was given by 14 POliTLAXD AXP VICIXITY. the close of the war. Population gradually increased. In 17S4 there were built on the Neck forty-one dwelling-houses, ten stores, and seven shops. In 1785 the first brick house in town was commenced, and the same vear appeared tlie first newspaper, "The Falmouth Gazette," published In- Ben- jamin Titcomb and Thomas B. Waite. In 1786 the town was divided, and the Neck, witii the name of Portland, started on an independent career, with a poi)ulation of about 2,000. In 1793 wharves were extended into the harbor. In 1795 Nathaniel Deeriiig built the first brick store. In 1709 the first bank was incorporated. Trade advanced westward from the old site at the foot of India street, and in 1800 Exchange (then called Fish) street was the jiriiicipal seat of business. Tiie ])0)nilation by this time had increased to 3,704, and in 1810 it had reached 7,169. A desirable class of residents came in, bringing ca])ital with them. Our merchants, no longer content with a coasting trade, engaged in foreign commerce. Lumber and fisli continued to be the ]iriiici]^al exports, but shi])S were also built and sent on freighting voyages. From 1795 to 1805 the growth of the town in commercial business and general prosperity was unexampled in New England. Dr. Dwiglit, visiting the ])lace in 1797, wrote: "No American town is more entirely commercial, and of course none is more s])rightly." The tonnage, which in 17S9 amounted to but 5,000, in 1807 had reached 30,000. The duties collected at the Custom House increased from §8,109 in 1700 to fi342,909 in 180G. Na])oleon Bonaparte had thrown all Euro]ie into war, and American bottoms, as being declared neutrals, monopolized the carrying trade. Portland shiji-owners jirofited accordingly and fortunes were ra]>idly m.-idc.

Witli tlie increase of Avealth came greater refinement and a more lavish style of living. In 1801 our rich merchants .began to build for themselves large and elegant houses, some of which still remain to us, the square, old- fashioned mansions, of noble front, with wide halls running through them, admitting, in the rear, into large, high-fenced gardens, Mhere fruit trees flourished. Of such is the stately Matthew Cobb house, which still stands at the corner of High and Free streets; the mansion built by Eltcnezer Storer, corner of High and Danforth streets, now occupied by John Mussey, Esq., and that built by Jose))h II. Ingraham, on State street. These, and others like them, were the best houses in the State, and some which remain unaltered, like the fine old mansion on the corner of High

.'ind Spring streets, long the residence of the late General W'ingate, still give evidence of the architectural taste and thorough workmanshiji of the olden time.

But the jirosijcrity of the town reciixed :i sudiliii and disastrous clieek by the non-intercourse [lolicy of ISllG, .-nid llic eniljargo which followed in 1^07. Commerce was at once sus]ieniliil, and the almost total destruction of our shi])piiig followc(l. Navigation iVlt off niiK' tliousaiid tons in two "

PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 15

years, all the various classes to whom it gave support were throwu out of

employment ; eleven commercial houses stopped payment in 1807, and ^ '^ — "=° "'=^==^ many others the fol- , - — lowing year. Great % ^ distress prevailed §-;_ i^ throughout the com- j -^ munity, and the grass ^ ^^ literally grew upon fc Jp the wharves. In the war of 1812, whirh followed, our sea-faring people manned the privateers fitted out here, some of which ran a successful career, and did great damage to the enemy, while others were soon captured by superior force, and their crews held as prisoners. We come now to the fourth period in the history of our city, beginning with the peace of 1815 and continuing to the commencement of the railroad era of 1846. This was a period of slow recovery from commercial disaster and the demoralization caused by war. Commerce revived, but did not flourish as it had done at the beginning of the century. Lumber continued to be the chief export, shipped to the West Indies in low-decked brigs, which returned with cargoes of sugar, molasses, and rum. In the decade from 1810 to 1820 the population of the town increased only 1,412. In March, 1820, the District of Maine was separated from Massachusetts and admitted into the Union as a State. Portland became the capital of the EPew State, and held that position until the removal of the seat of government to Augusta in 18.32. In July, 1823, a great event happened at Portland, — nothing loss than the arrival in the harbor of the first steamboat ever brought to Maine. This was the Patent, a vessel of about one hundred tons burthen, owned by Captain Seward Porter, of Portland, who had bought her in New York to run as a passenger boat between Portland and Boston. Jonathan Mor- gan and Captain Porter had both previously experimented with steamboats of their own construction, the Kennebec, built by the latter, in 1822, having been the first to run in Casco Bay, but this was the beginning of the successful application of steam to the navigation of our waters. In 1833 came the Chancellor Livingston, built under the direction of Robert Fulton, and the same year the Cumberland Steam Navigation Company was formed. 16 POBTLAXD AND VICINITY.

:iiid, in opposition to the Chancellor Livingston, put on the line between Portland and Boston the steamer Commodore McDonoiigh. The Portland Steam Packet Comj)any was organized in 1844, and its boats have ever since run on the route with great regularity and success, — a result largely due to the skillful management of Captain John B. Coyle, a pioneer in steamboat navigation in Maine. Another enterprise, of which the town had great expectations, never wholly realized, was the construction of the Cumberland and Oxford Canal, to connect the waters of Sebago Lake with Portland Harbor, begun in 1828

^^-- ^_^ __^ .r and com))leted ^ in 1830, at an expense of 8'206.0UO, of

w li i h K u m §27,000 were raised by a lot- tery granted by the State. The Canal continued in successful operation for many years, but has now, through the extension of our railroad system, fallen into disuse. In 1832, the town having then a ])oj)ulati

as compared with the business structures built since the fire of 1860.

About 1840 the city began to experience a depression in business, caused by the revolution in trade centers, brought about by the introduction of railroads. Boston, by the extension of her railroads, had seized upon the trade of Vermont which had formerly come to Portland through PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 17

the Notch of the White Mountains. In 1842 the Portland, Saco and Portsmouth Raih-oad was opened, and that also took business away from the city. It began to be the fashion to say that Portland was " wiltinij." Visitors spoke of it as a beautiful little city, but a quiet old ])lace. From 1840 to 1846 there was scarcely any increase in the population of the city. It became evident to our business men that it was necessaiy to seize the weapon which was being wielded against them and turn it to their own advantage. Measures were adopted to form railroad connection with the interior. For this purpose a company was formed, and a charter obtained, to construct a railroad to Canada. This brings us to the fifth period in the history of Portland, commenc-

ing in 1846 and continuing to the present time. This is the era of railroads, and though interrupted by war and conflagration, the prosperity of the city has steadily increased since their introduction. With the hour came the man, in the person of John A. Poor, by whose far-reaching foresight, broad grasp of possibilities, and

untiring energy, the project of a railroad to Canada was set on foot. The conception was a grand one, but the undertaking seemed overwhelming to a little city of sixteen thousand inhabitants. Montreal was three hundred miles away, through mountain ranges, through waste spaces, through sparsely populated regions, deeply encumbered with the snows of winter. Whence was -^ the capital to come? How was a rail- Joii" * p°°<- road to be built in the face of such physical obstacles? Mr. Poor and Wm. Pitt Preble drove over the route in a sleigh, in mid-winter, to prove the possibility of getting through. Our merchants and business men took up the enterprise with enthusiasm ; all classes of citizens joined heartily in the endeavor. It was a revival movement, — a revival of enterprise, a revival of business, a revival of prosperity, — and everybody but a few croakers was converted. The city loaned its credit in bonds to the amount of $2,000,000 ; eleven miles of the Atlantic and St.

Lawrence Railroad were opened in 1848, and in 1853 it was finished to its junction with the Canada road from Montreal, — a distance from Portland of 149 miles. The Grand Trunk Railway brought our city into connection not only with the towns and cities of Canada, but with the vast grain-growing regions of the West. Following its completion came, as necessary ad- juncts, a winter line of steamers to Liverpool, and the construction of a 18 rORTLAXD AXD VICIXITY. new business avenue along the whole water-front of the city, — a mile long and one hundred feet wide, — running over tide water, across the heads of the wharves, — leaving high and dry old Fore street, so long the water street, the locality of slop-shops and sailor boarding-houses. This new street, — appropriately called Commercial, — is the scene of a heavy wliole- sale trade in flour, grain, and groceries, while it also affords railroad communication across the front of the city, and with the numerous wharves. Then came the builtling of that system of railroads opening to the trade of

Portland all parts of the State, and now consolidated under the name of the Maine Central. Our merchants also opened connection with the eastern part of the State, and the Lower Provinces, by means of steamboat lines, and thus secured much of the trade which had formerly gone to Boston. Manufacturing establishments, — like the Portland Company's Works and Brown's Sugar House, — also sprang up, and gave employment to hundreds. The city passed tlirough the panic of 1857-8 without serious disaster, and trade was reviving again when the war of the ReV)ellion came in 1861. Business then gave way to the demands of patriotism. The First Maine Kegiment, Colonel Jackson, (six companies of which were raised here), was speedily organized, though the measles prevented its being tlie fii'st in the field. In response to later calls for volunteers our people were active in organizing other regiments, — especially the 5th, 9lh, 10th, Titli,

13th, ITtli, and 'Ihih-, the latter a nine-months' regiment of Portland boys, led by Colonel Francis Fessenden. Other recruits followed, Port- land contributing in all 5000 men, to whom she ])aid in bounty |!4'28,- f)70 ; and of whom 421 lost their lives in battle, or by disease. Large contributions were made in aid of the Sanitary and Christian Commis- sions, and many noble women gave their services in nursing the sick and wounded. When, one June morning, in 1S63, the U. S. Revenue cutter Caleb Cushing was missed from her anchorage the Collector of the port, Jede- diah Jcwett, in conjunction with the Mayor, Captain J.icob JIcLellan. promptly manned and armed the steamers Forest City and Chesapeake, and pursuing tlie rebels who had seized ber, found her becalmed near the Green Islands. The rebel commander, Lieutenant Reade, set the cutter on fire, and she blew up with a terrific explosion; lie and liis crew meantime taking to the boats, to be captured by the pursumg steamers and confined in Fort Preble as prisoners of war. For this prompt and patriotic action the Secretary of the Treasury awarded high praise to Collector Jewett and his associates. The city came out of the war without great loss, though its commercial ]irogress had been checked by the tran.sfer of much of its shiiijiing to the British flag. The war, however, had given employment to many; money POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 19

was lliisli, and the city was again entering on a prosperous career, wlien, for the fourth time in its history, it was laid in ashes and made desolate. On the Fourth of July, 18G6, a carelessly thrown fire-cracker set fire to a boat-builder's shop on Commercial, near the foot of Hio-h street and the sparks soon communicated with Brown's Sugar House, wrapping that great structure in flames, and speeding onward, spite of all opposition, spreading out like a _^ ^^ fan as it went, diago-

nall3' across the citj-,

glowing with a fur- nace heat, melting iron, crumbling stone, wiping out the cost- " liest " fire-proof structures, leaving de-

solation in its track ; sweeping awa\- not only whole blocks, but entire streets, massive warehouses, loftj' churches, splendid mansions, ancestral homes in the crowded and oldest part of

the city ; spreading terror, anguish, and dismay among the whole population, until, at last, in the small hours of the morning, it burnt itself out amid the waste spaces at the foot of Munjo3''s Hill. That night of terror and destruction will never be forgotten by the people of Portland. The morning saw fifteen hundred

buildings laid in ashes ; fifty-eight streets and courts reduced to a wilderness of chimneys, amid which the most familiar inhabitant lost himself; ten thousand people made houseless and homeless, and ten millions of property' destroyed. For a moment only the energies of the people seemed paralyzed, and then commenced the great work of providing for the houseless and the hungry'. Whole villages of tents sprang up on Munjoy, and

elsewhere : barracks were built ; generous contributions from abroad flowed in; the work of rebuilding was begun, — advantage being taken of the opportunity to widen and straighten old streets, and open new ones, — and now, after a lapse of twenty-two years, the city stands rebuilt, far handsomer than before the fire. ;

20 POIiTLAXD AND VICIXITY.

Meantime the work of railroad extension has gone on, enlarging tlit area tributary to the trade of the city, and opening new routes of pleasure travel. In 1><73 the Boston and Maine Railroad was extended from South Berwick to Portland, giving easy access to Old Orchard Beach, where a whole village of hotels has since sprung up. In 1875 the Portland and Rochester Railroad com]>leted its connections with Nashua, N. H., and Worcester, Mass., thus opening a direct route to New York, and saving many miles of travel between Portland and the great mctro]iolis. The same year the Portland and Ogdensbiirg R:nlroad, — which is to open a lew and shorter route to the Great West, and bring back some of tlie

I"^t trade of Vermont, — was com])letcd iliiiiugh the Notch of the White Moun-

tains, and commanding as it does the most sublime and beautiful scenery, gave a new impetus to jileasure travel tlirongh Portland.

Our merchants now command tiie trade of a large portion of the State to a considerable extent they supply Nortliern New Ilamjtshire and Ver- mont, and find customers in the Maritime Pi'ovinces and the Canadas. Various branches of ^Ianuf;ictnre, — as the rolling of railroad iron, the making of carriages, shoes, matches, stone-ware, and drain-]>iiic, have sprung up, and these products find a market all over the United States, and to some extent in foreign countries. The city now occujiies the whole of the ]>eninsula, from the slo)ies of Munjoy to tiie brow of Brandiall, — many elegant residences having within PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 21 the past few years been erected in what was once " the swamp ward," at the west end. The business streets, as well as those devoted to private residences, are handsomely- built, lighted with gas, supplied with pure water from Lake Sebago, and well drained. It has forty-seven churches and places of public worship; twenty-two well conducted public schools, attended b}' about six thousand scholars ; four daily and nine weekly newspapers, and is well equipped with charitable, literary, and musical associations. It has six national and two savings banks, a trust company and a safe deposit company. The statistics of the port for the fiscal 3'ear ending .June 30, 1888, was as follows : revenue, $509,332; imports, $2,292,875; exports, $3,152,441;

arrivals from foreign ports, 291 vessels, of a total tonnage of 85,548 ; clear- ances to foreign ports 412, of a total tonnage of 142,567. The whole number of

vessels belonging to the district June 30, 1888, was 336 ; aggregate tonnage,

69,840.79 ; and during tlie j-ear three vessels of a combined tonnage of 219 were built. The transit trade of the port is two or three times larger than in all the other ports of the United States combined. Its harbor is deep, safe, accessible, and spacious. It commands most beautiful and varied scenerj-, from wide ocean views to the everlasting mountains lifting their summits in the distance.

As a center of pleasure travel Portland presents unequalled facilities and attractions, — having the seashore at its feet, the mountains at its back ; baj', islands, and inland lakes on either hand.

With its dependent suburban villages it is the center of a population numbering not less than 45,000, and possesses, — in its situation, the enterprise of its merchants, and the industrj' of its mechanics and manufacturers, — the elements of large growth and future prosperity. TOPOGRAPHY.

In superficial area Portland is the smallest town in the State. Its territory comprises a small peninsula, which juts into the inner waters of Casco Ba3', and sixteen islands and parts of islands, lying at a distance, down the baj', of from three to ten miles. The peninsula, or Neck, was called Machigonne by the natives, which, according to some authorities, means had clay, while others contend that its interpretation is a knee, or elbow, — a term descriptive of the great curve which the Neck makes in sweeping round from the Fore River to Back Cove. The names of the islands are Peaks', Long, C'ushing's, House, Great and Little Diamond (or Hog), part of Crotch, part of Hope, Little Chebeague, .Jewell's, Cow, Ram, Marsh, Overset, Crow, and Pumpkin Knob. The peninsula which constitutes the site of the city proper projects from the mainland in a northeast direction, and is about three miles long, with an average breadth of three-quarters of a mile, — its narrowest point being scarce half a mile in width. On the southerly side it is divided from the Cape Elizabeth shore by an arm of the bay, called Fore River, which I'Ojrn.AM} A.\D VKLXITY. constitutes the inner harbor, having, between Portland Bridge and the Breakwater on one side, and Fisli Point on the other, an area of six hundred and seventy-seven acres, and an average depth, at mean high water, of about thirty feet. Vessels of the largest size ever built can enter the lower harbor, day or night, with forty feet of water at low tide, and lie safely at anchor in that depth, inside of a line connecting the Breakwater with Fort Gorges, and distant not more than one-half mile from tiie Great Eastern Steamship Wharves. Commissioners a)i- pointed by the Government to examine the harbor say, "The city of Portland stands precisely upon the spot whicli a careful examination would jironounce to be the best." On the northerly side the Xeck is separated from the sliores of Deering by the waters of Back Cove, — an inner basin of large extent, having a sufficient de]ith of water, at high tide, to float vessels of considerable tonnage. The ]ieninsula, liicrefore, has tide water on either hand, and its shores slope up gradually on both sides to a mean central elevation of more than a hundred feet, — thus affording every facility for drainage, and contributing to make Portland one of the healthiest cities in the world. At its northeastern extremity the Xeck rises into an eminence called !\Iui)joy's Hill, having an elevation of 161 feet, and commanding a delightful view of the waters of Casco Bay, its green islands, and the ocean beyond. At its southwestern end the land also rises into a promi- nence, ending with a bold Idiiff, called Bramhall's Hill, having a height of 175 feet, and affording an extensive viuw of farm, forest, village, and mountain scenery, — best seen at sunset. Between these two elevations the land sags, but at the lowest point, on the central ridge, (the head of Hampshire street), is still 57 feet above tide water. Along the whole line of this central ridge, from the slope of Bram-

hall to tlie outer declivity of Munjoy, Congress street extends, the back- bone of the city, three miles in length. Below it, on the southern sloi)e, and running parallel with it for a ]>art of its length, are, first, Middle street, a business avenue devoted largely to the retail and wholesale dry goods trade; second. Fore street, the ancient water street of the city, now devoted to miscellaneous trade; and third. Commercial street, the new commercial thoroughfare, fronting the harbor, and occupied by wholesale traders in he.avy goods. At the west end, where the Neck widens, there are other longitu

a p.iiM (if its length, are, first, Cumberland ; second, Oxford, sujiplemcnted

><\\ on the western end liv Portland ; and lliinl. Lincnln, the new-made ;

POniLAND AND VICINITY. . 23 land along the shore of IJack Cove, and also supplemented, at the western end, b}' Kennebec street. Across these streets, radiating like ribs from the back-bone of Con- gress street, are many shorter streets, of which the principal are as follows : At the easterly- end, India street, the earl^- site of trade and population ; Franklin and Pearl streets, the onl^- ones that run straight across the peninsula, from water to. water ; Exchange street, a business thoroughfare devoted largel_v to brokers, banks, and insurance agencies High street and State street, devoted to private residences.

The whole peninsula is covered with a net-work of two hundred and forty streets, lanes, and courts, aggregating a length of fifty miles, while thirt3" wharves extend into the harbor and give accommodation to the commerce of the port. There are six avenues on the land side into town, all of wiiich are over bridges, except the old road from Stroudwater. All the bridges were at first supported hy tolls, but now tiiey are free. The horse cars of the Portland Railroad Company afford an easy means of transit along the whole length of Congress street ; also from the grand Trunk Station, through Middle and Congress, down High and up Spring streets to Bramliairs Hill ; and from the head of Preble, in Market .Square, through Preble, Portland, and Green streets, and' the villages of Deering Point and Woodford's Corner, to Evergreen Cemetery, and Mor- rill's Corner, — a distance of three and a quarter miles. The Congress street line in 1886, was extended from Grove street, and runs now to and past the Union Railroad Depot. In 1887, the Spring street line was extended, and now makes a junction with the Congress street line at Grove street. From east to west the city may be divided into several distinctive districts, as follows : Munjoy's Hill is covered with an almost distinct and independent village, of middle-class residences, having its own churches, schools, and shops. The business of the city centers on the southerly slope below Congress street, near the middle of the peninsula.

The northerly slope, back of Congress street, along its whole length, is devoted to private residences. The western end, rising gradually to the eminence of Bramhall, as in most cities, is the fashionable quarter, and hiving been spared by the great fire of 1866, now contains the oldest mansions, as well as many of the newest and most elegant residencesj The streets here are all shaded b3- stately elms, and the houses are surrounded b.y well kept gardens and lawns, — not, as formerly, shut into seclusion by high board fences, but thrown open to the public view by low ornamental hedges, and guards. It will readily be seen that from the elevation of its site, and Ih' character of its surroundings, Portland commands scener3- of the most varied and beautiful description. The beauty of its location and' surrounding views has often received the warm praises of visitors and tourists, and is the pride and boast of its citizens. 24 PORTLAND AXD VICINITY.

Looking through the vistas of the over-arching shade-trees on some of the streets leading to Back Cove, one catches delightful glimpses of tranquil water and green fields, and hills beyond. It is like a picture set in a frame- work of foliage. If, in the early morning, you walk to the summit of Munjoy's Hill, you see the round sun swinging up from the ocean, and shedding his golden radiance on tiie many green islands which dot Ihe beautiful bay. If, at evening, you stand on the brow of lirainhall's Hill, you look over a panorama of field and forest, shining water and tree-crowned hills, with here and there a white church-spire pointing to the heavens, now all aglow with the radiance of the departing sun.

\Ve know of no cil}' where, from the very center of its business streets, one may look out upon such beautiful views of land and water as may be seen from the heart of our citj'. .Stand, at the hour of sunset, at the head of Preble street, and look out over the waters of the Cove, reflecting the hues of the sunset sky ; upon the green fields and tree-crowned summits of Deer- ing, and tell us if anything can be finer. Distinguished Portlanders.

Portland numbers among Its sons and daughters man}- who have given distinction to their birthplace abroad, as well as others who have acquired a local reputation for abilities displayed in the various walks of life. Among those who are, or have been, resident here, not natives of the place, ma^' also be counted not a few distinguished men and women. Local pride ma^' be indulged in a brief mention of the more prominent persons in both classes. To begin at the beginning, George Cleeve, our first settler and proprietor, was a man worthy of being remembered, not only for his own abilities, but as being the progenitor of some of our leading citizens of to-day. Though he left but one child, — a daughter, — his posterity teems in the land. Set- tling on the Neck in 1632, he obtained a grant of the land from Gorges, and subsequentl}', as Deputy-President under Rigbj', ruled over the whole province of Ligonia, extending from Cape Porpoise to Cape Elizabeth, including botli. For over thirty years he was prominent in affairs in this region, dying some time previous to 1671, at a great age. He was undoubtedly one of the most

distinguished of the early settlers in these parts ; a man of great activitj' and

enterprise, an ardent royalist, and warmly attached to the Church of England ; ambitious and self-reliant, a partisan and a leader ; frequently involved in five shillings for rash speeches controversy-, — once fined, in the court at Saco, ; a rough old character, well suited to the turbulent times in which he lived. We derive all our property-rights through him, and his name should long ere this have been kept in remembrance bj- being given to some public institution. The most prominent figure in our history, through the greater part of the eighteenth century, was the Rev. Thomas Smith, the first ordained •M I'OItTLASD AW VJCIXJTY. minister after the resettlement of the town. His descendents are also numerous, — some of them to be found among our most prominent and useful citizens. For a long course of years he was the most distiuLjuishcd preacher in this part of the country ; for many years the only pliysician in town ; one of a class jieculiar to colonial times, the like of whom are no longer to be found. Our early annalist, Jiis Journal is full of quaint uli- ser\ aliens on the men and events of liis times, — j)reserving for us a life- like picture of the manners and customs of the last centurj-. He lived under the reign of four sovereigns, and the jiresidency of George Wash- ington, dying in 1795, in the ninety-fourth year of his age, after a ministry with the j)eo])le here of sixty-eight years and two months. One of the most distinguished citizens of the town at the outbreak of the Revolution was General Jedediali Preble, known as Brigadier Preble. He had served in the old French wars; has the credit of having been with

Wolfe on the Plains of Abraham ; was twelve years Kepresentative of the town ; appointed Brigadier General by the Provincial Congress ; afterwards served as the first Senator from Cumberland county, under the constitution of 1780, and as Judge of the Common Pleas, dying in 1784, at the age of seventy-seven. The earliest members of the bar, resident here, were Theoiihilus Brad- bury and David Wyer, who entered upon practice in this town in 17G:i, previous to which time there were no lawyers in what now forms the county of Cumberland. Bradbury acquired a good practice. John Adams writing to his wife in 1774, and querulously complaining of the success of " lawyers younger than himself, says : Bradbury, at Falmouth, they say, grows rich very fast." Mr. Bradbury served as a member of Congress, and as one of the Judges of the Supreme Court of Massachusetts, dying in 18(13. ;Mr. Wyer was King's Attorney for the county before the Revolution, but died in 177G, at the early age of thirty-five. These two being the only resident lawyers were invariably employed u]>on opposite sides. Bradbury was grave and judicious; Wyer full of wit and vivacity, and many were the combats between tliem, giving rise to scenes in the Forum very much to the amusement of their mutual friends. The next ante-revolutionary character we have to introduce was a sort of factotum, a tyi)e of Yankee versatility and usefulness. Samuel Freeman, born in this town in 1742, in early life traded and kept school ; entered public life as an advocate of the rights of the colonies in 1775, being chosen Delegate from Falmouth to the Provincial Congress; afterwards served as Clerk of the Courts for forty-six years, as Register and Judge of Probate forty-five year.s as Postmaster twenty-eight year.s, as Selectman twenty-four years, as Deacon of the First Parish forty-five years, and also President of the Maine Bank and as President of the Overseers of Bowdoin College for a number of vears, finding time in the intervals of business to (lublish ;

PORTLAXD AXD VICIXJTY.

several law books, and to edit and publish the manuscript journal of the Rev. Thomas Smith. In 1770 Theophihis Parsons, afterwards the distinguished Chief Justice of Massachusetts, came here to take

> a school, and taught for a number of years, at the same time studying law under Theojihilus Bradbury, and was admitted to the Cumberland Bar in July, 1774. While here he was remarkable for his studious habits. Sheriff William Tyng, of colonial times, stands out as our prominent Tory; accepting a colonel's commis-

sion from General Gage ; proscribed and banished in 1775, but returning in 1793, and dying here in 1807. Among native and resident lawyers who have achieved distinction at the Cumberland Bar, we may mention the learned jurist and law Avriter,

Simon Greenleaf ; Stephen Longfel-

low, the father of the poet, long in ExChief j Ahef Shepiey.

successful practice here ; Prentiss Mellen, who rose t Chief Justice of the State, the duties of which office he discharged with singular fidelity and ability; Ezekiel Whitman, member of Congress for four terms, and Chief Justice of the Supreme Court

of Maine ; Samuel Fessenden, the able lawyer, whose noble presence

and commanding oratory are still fresh in our recollection, distinguished not less as a philanthropist ami friend of the slave than as an ad\i'-

cate ; Albion K. Parris, Governor ul the State at thirty-three, and long prominent in law practice here William Pitt Preble, who served as Judge, was Minister to the Nether- lands, and bore an important part in the settlement of the northeastern

-^"^8^ George f, shepiey. boundary question ; Ashur Ware, the learned writer on Maritime law, who served as Judge of the United ;;

28 POllTLAyD AND VICIXITY.

States District Court for fortj'-four years; Etlier Shepley, ex-Chief Justice of the State, and his son, George F. Shepley, who served in the war of the Rebellicn, and was Judge of the United States Circuit Court; Ed- ward Fox, tiie present Judge of tlie United States District Court Nathan Clifford, ex-United States Attorney-General, ex-Minister to Mexico, and Justice of the Supreme

Court of the United Stales ; Wil- liam Wirt Virgin, one of the Judges of the Supreme Court of Maine Charles W. Goddard, ex-Judge of

the Superior Court ; Judge Symonds.

(if tiie Supreme Court ; Geo. F. Talbot, ex-United States District Attorney

for Maine ; Nathan Webb, who has

held the same office ; and among

Hon. William Pitt .Ftssenden. prominent mcmbcrs of the bar to- day : Bion Bradbury, Josiuh IT. Druramond, Sewall C. Strout, William L. Putnam, John Rand, Nathan Cleaves, Charles P. JIattocks, Thomas B. Rerd, Jr., H. B. Cleaves and C. F. Uihby. Of orators and statesmen, native and resident, Portland may claim Sar- gent S. Prentiss, born here, but who

won his reputation in the South ; Wil- liam Pitt Fessenden, the distinguished Senator and Secretary of the Treas-

ury ; Hon. George Evans, foinierly United .States Senator from this State; Israel Washburn, Jr., whose long service in Congress, and able administra- tion as governor of the State, during the early part of the Rel)ellion, place him among the most honored sons of

Maine ; the late George T. Davis, ex- member of Congress from ^lassachu- setts, and a gentleman of brilliant con-

ExRov.tror Ittael Washburn, Jr. VCrsational pOWerS. Of officers who have achieved distinction in the navy, native here, we have Commcdore Edward Preble, son of Biigadier Preble, whose name

stands high in our annals as the hero of Tripoli ; Rear Admiral Aldon, —

PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 29

who fought at New Orleans and Mobile ; and Rear Admiral George H. Preble, who has served long and well. Among reformers we may claim General Neal Dow, who served in the war of the Rebellion, was Mayor of the city in 1851 and 1855, and has won a world-wide distinction as a zealous ^- ^^^^ advocate of temperance, and the prin- ^^. ciple of prohibition, — having twice \ visited England as a laborer in this "*', \

. > field, where he is now well known '^ and esteemed.

Portland is the birth])lace of many authors, some of whom have achieved a wide fame, and conferred honor on the place of their nativity. Of poets we may mention first, by right of seniority, the late John Neal, born here August 25, 1793, of a Quaker family, — though with but little of the Quaker spirit. His vigorous poem, " The Battle of Niagara," was published as long ago as 1818. In 18*24 we find him in England, writing for Blackwood's Magazine, and enjoying the friendship of Jeremy Bentham. As poet, novelist, journalist, and contributor to magazines, Mr. Neal has been a prolific author, writing in an impetuous and uncontrolled style of his own, always with independence,

analysis of character ; preserving to a ripe old age his vehemence and vigor, bis irascibility, his scorn of everything unmanly, and his love of fair play. Henry W. Longfellow, who needs no mention but that of his name, was born here, " in an old, square wooden house, upon the edge of the sea," on the 27th of February, 1807. It is un- necessary to allude to his poetry, known and admired wherever the English language is read or translated, — or to speak of his uneventful and prosperous career as a man of letters, ciO POUTLASD AXI) VICIXITY. who has endeared himself to thousands in foreign lands, as well as in his own country, by the felicity and loving charm of his writings. Born of a family long prominent here, he has given immortality to the city of his birth by his poem entitled, "]\Iy Lost Youth," in which he describes " the beautiful town

That is seated by the sea." Nathaniel P. Willis was born here in the same year with Long-

fellow, January 2o", 1807. He had ink in his veins, — his grandfather and his fathei-, both of whom were named Nathaniel Willis, being well known ]iuljlishers; the former having been an ajiprcntiee in the same jirinting-office with Benjamin Frank- lin. As a poet, journalist, and letter writer, Mr. Willis was distinguished for his spriglitly and graceful style, and his rare choice and constructive skill in the use of words.

Henry W. Longfellow. • • NathanielXT .1 1 Deering.T. wlio1 diedT 1 in 1881, aged nearly ninetj- years, graduated at Harvard as long ago as 1810. He chose the law as his profession, and literature as his aniuse- iiient, but early abandoned both. His chief productions are two five-act trageilie.s, "Car- rabassett," and " Bozzaris," which have been much admired. His miscellaneous ])oems and tales contain much of the humor of "Down- East" life. Among other poets, of native birth, we may mention William Cutter; Isaac McLel-

lan ; S. B. Beckett, in whose j)oem, "Hester,"

there is niucli fine description of our local

scenery ; and D. C. Colesworthy, whose moral verses have had a wide circulation. Among ])oets resident liere at various

times are Grenvillc INIellen ; Mrs. E. Oakes Smith, author of "The Sinless Child," and formerly a prolific contributor to our magazine literature; and Mrs. Elizabeth Akers ^ ^ ^'""- Allen, whose poems have had a wide circulation in book form, and tlir.)u<4li the periodicals of the day. —

rORTLAND AND VWIXITX. 31

Among writers of tales and romance we have J. H. Ingraham ; Charles P. Ilsley, whose tales of Indian warfare and frontier life in Maine have have been very popular; Rev. Elijah Kellogg, author of many books for boys ; George Payson ; Mrs. Samuel Coleman ; Mrs. Ann S. Stephens, the prolific novelist; Mrs. Elizabeth (Payson) Prentice; and Mrs. Clara Barnes Martin. Bisliop Horatio Southgate has written travels, and Mrs. Margaret J. M. Sweat has published an account of a tour in Europe, also " Etiiel's Love-Life," a tale, and has contributed articles of much merit to various periodicals. Li general literature William Law Symonds gave promise of much distinction, had not an early death terminated his career. Sarah Payson Willis, sister of the poet, acquired much popularity as a writer of brief, lively essays, under the 7Uim de plume of "Fanny Fern." Professor Edward S. Morse has gained distinction as a lecturer and author of works on natural history.

Mrs. Abba Goold Woolson is well known as an able lecturer, and writer on questions connected with woman's rights and dress reform. Among residents of Portland distinguished as authors we have, in theology, Rev. Dr. Edward Payson, Rev. Dr. Cyrus Bartol, Rev. Dr. Ichabod Nichols, Rev. Dr. W. T. Dwight, Rev. Dr. J. W. Chickering, Rev. Jason Whitman, Rev. William B. Hayden, and Rev. Dr. Thomas Hill, e.v-President of Harvard Uni- rd Payson. versity. In science and natural history we may count William B. Sewall, Dr. J. W. Mighells and Dr. Wm. Wood. In history, Henry A. S. Dearborn, and Hon. William Willis, the historian of Portland, an accomplished gentleman and scholar, who, after a long useful life here, during which he filled many positions of honor and trust, — including that of Mayor of the city, died February 17th, 1870, in the seventy-sixth year of his age. In this department we must also include Hon. William Goold, now of Windham, but formerly a resident of this city, who lias devoted himself to the preservation of our local annals with much zeal and research. In biogr.aphy we have Rev. Asa Cummings, author of the life of Rev. Dr. Payson. In agriculture. Rev. Dr. Samuel Deane, author of " The New England Farmer, or Georgical Dictionary," the first work on farming pub- 32 PORTLAXD AND VICIXITT.

lished in this country, and long a standard authority. In statistics, John A. Poor, and Walter Wells, author of "The Water Power of Maine." Among journalists we must not omit mention of Benjamin Titcomb and Thomas B. Waite, who, on the first of January, 1785, issued the initial number of the Falmouth Gazette and Weekly Advertiser, — the first newsjiaper ever jjrinted in the District of Maine. Mr. Titcomb was born here July '27, 1761, served an a]»])renticeship to the art of i)rinting, and often boasted in his old age that he "struck off," with his own hands, the first sheet ever ]irinted in Maine. He subsequently became a Bajitist preacher, and after a ministry of forty years in Brunswick, Me., died in 1848, at the good old age of ninety-seven years. Mr. Waite, also a printer, was born in Saugus, Mass., in 1762, and came here from Boston in 1784; was long ]irominent here in political affairs, — a man of ardent temperament and indejiendent character; active in jirocuring the establishment of post-oftice and mail

routes ; an advocate of the building of a theatre here, when town meetings were held on the subject, and much feeling was manifested on both sides. After a residence in Portland of about thirty years, he returned to Boston, where he died in 183U. In 1803 Nathaniel Willis, father of N. P. Willis, the ])oet, commenced the publication of the Eastern Argus,

lie was the tii'st editor who was ever iiiiprisdneil in Maine because of the

free

Hon. William Willis. in tliis country. Mr. Willis died in Boston, in 1870, being ninety years old. In 182G the Rev. Asa Cummings,

an .al)le controversial writer, became editor of the Christian Mirror, and conducted it until 185:J, — a jieriod of twenty-nine years. In 1828 appeared the Yankee, which, under the editor.ship of John

Ncal, had a brief but brilliant existence ; being remarkable among journals of that day for its vigor, indejiendence, boldness, and audacity. In 1829 Seba Smith started the Courier, — the first daily newspajier in this State, — and in its columns first ajipeared his famous "Jack Downing Letters," which are among the mo.st successful ada]itations of the Yankee dialect to tlie purposes of humorous writing. Mr. Smith was also a poet, and a writer of tales and essays for the magazines. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 35

John and William E. Edwards became proprietors of the Portland Ad- vertiser in 1829, and soon after engaged James Brooks as editor, who was- one of the first of Wasliington correspondents, afterwards removed to New

York, where, together with his brother Erastus, — both natives of this citj-, — he ran a successful career as editor of the New York Express, and long represented that city in Congress. In May, 1833, Horatio King (since acting Postmaster General), removed the JeflFersonian from Paris, Oxford county, to this cit}', where it was published several 3-ears, with a good degree of success. In 1835, the Daily Argus was started by Ira Berrj' and Charles Holden.

Mr. Berry is still living, the oldest active printer among us. Mr. Holden, who was one of our most successful journalists, and a most useful and public-spirited citizen, died in July, 1875, aged 71 3'ears, leaving a competence to his children, and liberal bequests to our benevolent institutions. In 1837 Charles P. Ilslej- started the Portland Transcript, which he edited for ten years, enriching its columns with many interesting tales from his graceful pen. D. C. Colesworth}' commenced the publication of the Portland Tribune in 1841, and continued it for over four years, contributing to its columns man}' tales and poems which attracted much attention. About 1842 Benjamin Kingsburj', Jr., came here to edit the American, — a daily and weekly paper, started b}- a faction of the Democrac}- in opposition to the Argus. Mr. Kingsbury displayed great ability in its management, and soon made matters lively among the politicians. The sparring that went on between him and Eliphalet Case, editor of the Argus, greatly amused the town. His slower and heavier opponent was no match for him in wit and sprightliness. Mr. Kingsburj- has since filled many public offices with faithfulness and abilit}', among which is that of Mayor of the city in 1870, '71, and '72. Newell A. Foster, who was engaged on the American as printer and

)3ublisher, at the time of Mr. Kingsbury's connection with it, was long connected with the press of Portland. In 1862, in company with John T. Gil- mon and Joseph B. Hall, he established the Portland Daily Press. Mr. Fos- ter was a man of earnest convictions and independence of character, whose untimely death, a few years since, was deeply lamented. Among distinguished men of other professions who have for a time tried their hands at journalism here, are Rev. Russell Streeter, Hon. William AVillis, Isaac Adams, Hon. F. O. J. Smith, Hon. William Pitt Fessenden, Hon. Phinehas Barnes, Hon. James G. Blaine, John A. Poor, S. B. Beckett, Henry Carter, Professor E. P. Weston, Rev. Dr. W. H. Shailer, George Gilford, and Judge Enoch Knight, of the Municipal Court. Four dail}' newspapers are now published in the city, the Eastern Argus, the Press, the Advertiser, and the Express. Two local Sunday papers are also published, the Times and the Telegram, and seven other weeklies —

34 PORTLAND AND VICIMTY.

The editor longest in continuous service is Edward H. Elweli, for over forty jears editor of tlie Portland Transcript ; with which paper Samuel T. Pickard has also been connected for thirty-five years, and C. W. Pickard for twenty-eight years. The Christian Miiror (Congregational) is now conducted by Rev. Dr. I. P. Warren, mid the Zion's Advocate (Baptist) by Rev. II. S. Burrage. The pioneer artist in Portland was Charles Codman, who came here from Massachusetts many years ago, and commenced business as a sign- painter. He soon turned his attention to landscape-painting, for which he had a true genius, his works displaying freedom of handling, and truth to nature. Many of them are still owned by families in this city, and are highly prized. Charles O. Cole was an excellent portrait-iiainter. practising his profession here with success for many years. J. R. Tillon, who has gained high distinction as a landsca])e painter in Italy, commenced his career here as an ornamental painter about 1848. Mrs. Eliz;ibeth Mur- ray, (wife of Her Britannic Majesty's Consul, John Henry Murray), a distinguished artist in water-colors, whose works are highly prized on both sides of the Atlantic, has resided here at times. Charles J. Schumacher, a native of Germany, has painted some fine landscapes and street views, chiefly of scenes in his native land. Of native artists, the first who attained distinction was Charles E. Beckett. Commencing as an amateur he soon displayed jirecision in drawing, and skill in composition, and in landscape-])ainling he achieveil some success, and was noted for his spirited drawing of horses. J. G. Cloud- man has studied abroad, and produced landsca])es and figure-pieces, though chiefly devoting himsi If to portraiture, in which he excels. Of all our native artists, Harry B. Brown has shown the truest eye for color, and achieved tlie greatest success as a landscape and marine painter. Com- mencing as a sign and banner jiainter, his natural genius soon worked its way into its own field, and he has attained a recognized position among the best artists irf the land. His sea-and-shore scenes are distinctive in their character, remarkable for the free dash of the waves and the solidity of the cliffs, while in atmosjiheric effects he excels. John B. Hudson, Ji'.. (whose drawings, illustrating this work, speak for themselves), has ])rii- duced some close studies of nature. Charles F. Kimball has rcpiodiiciMl our scenery with faithfulness and poetic feeling; and ]Miss Maria Beckett has done good and ])roniising work. Of scul]itors, Paul Akers and his brother Charles were long resident here, Franklin Simmons, wlui. has attained great success in his art, executed some of his earlier busts in this city. E. U. Tliaxter, whose works, executed in Italy, have won high ])raise, began his artistic career in Portland. Of the business men whose energy, enterprise, and capital have done PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

much to promote the prosperity of the city, and gain for themselves local influence and position, a long list might be given. Our merchants, from the earliest times, have shown a commendable spirit of enterprise, and of late ^•ears, through associated action in the Board of Trade, have by their encour- agement of new packet, steamboat, and railroad lines, done much to open distant markets to the trade of the city. Other capitalists and real estate owners have contributed largely' to the growth of the citj', in the establishment of manufactures, and the improvement of vacant lands. Nathaniel Deering was the first who opened a store after the destruction of the town in 1775, in wiiich he laid the foundation of a large property now owned by the Deering and Preble heirs, — both family names being as "familiar in our mouths as household words." Joseph II. lugrMliani, of tiie sam; period, improved the waste places by building blocks of stores, and became for a time one of our

largest land-holders. It is to him

our city is indebted for the noble

avenue of State Street, as also for one of our best-preserved mansions of the olden time, situated

near its foot. Captain John Mussey was among those who first erected stores on Middle street, — on a site since repeatedlj- swept b^- fire, but always rebuilt upon by his son, John Mussey, Esq. This gentleman was Clerk of the United States Courts for manj- years. He walked our streets, a hale and handsome octogenarian, a venerable and most re- spected citizen, noted for his John B. Bn generous gifts to our churches and charities, and died in 1886, at the age of ninety-five.

The financial disasters which followed the embargo of If swept away the fortunes of many of our leading merchants and real-estate own-

ers ; but among those who survived the storm were Matthew Cobb, Asa Clapp, William Chadwick, Albert Newhall, Joseph Cross, Ralph Cross, Arthur McLellan, James Deering, Benjamin Willis, Samuel Trask, and

Reuben Morton, — all men who have left their mark upon our citj-.

Matthew Cobb's house still remains, at the corner of High street and

Congress Square, to remind old citizens of the stj'le and hospitalitj- kept 36 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. up there in the days of its first proprietor. Asa Clapp is still remembered as our leading merchant in the We.sl India trade, long active in affairs here. His two sons, Charles Q. Clajij), Esij., n

and nearly all recollection of him

has passed away. At a still later time another citizen, in a different dei)artment of business, was for a brief period the man of mark among us: the Hon. John M. Wood, a builder of railroads, a projector of large improvements here, a member of Congress from this District for two terms; running a rapid career of prosperity, only to end in embarrassment and untimely death. Quite different has been the progress of one of his successors in Congress from this District, — the Hon. John Lynch; beginning life as a ])oor boy, rising by his own unaided efforts to a prominent position Hon w.Miam w Thomas amoug our mcrcliants, endorsed by them as our Representative in Congress for eight years, a useful leg- islator and successful business man. Tiie leading business man and real-estate owner for many years w.is the late John B. Brown, who came here many years ago and commencid business in the retail grocery line, and by his energy and large foresight became a leading merchant .uid inanuf:ictnrer; doing much for the improvement of the city, acti\<- in all entt'r]irises for the extension of its trade, representing its interests in the Legislature, and taking an active part in the establishment of the Maine (General Hospital, and other benevolent institutions. Mr. Brown dic.l Jan. 10, 1>

PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 37

Hon. William W. Thomas, another leading capitalist and real-estate in seventh gen- owner, is a native citizen, being a direct descendent, the here eration, of George Cleeve our first settler; of a family prominent ancestry the Rev. through tlie whole history of the city; including in his George Burroughs, the first minister in Falmouth, and John Proctor, both of whom the pious people of Salem hanged for witchcraft. Mr. Tliomas has been engaged in business in this city for over half a cen- presided over the tury; is the oldest bank president in the city, having of Port affairs of the Canal Bank for thirty-five years; was Mayor land in 1861 and 1862, and has represented our city in the Legislature, and our county in the State Senate. To Mr. Thomas is the city indebted for many of the most substantial business edifices which adorn our principal streets. His son, Hon. William W. Thomas, Jr., has been twice Speaker of the Maine House of Representatives, and, as Commissioner of Emigra- tion, founded the flourishing colony of New Sweden in the heart of our northern forests. Other merchants and capitalists, to whom the city is indebted for Smith T. C. many improvements and business enterprises, are St. John ; Hersey; Messrs. Andrew and Samuel E. Spring, largely engaged in the South American trade, and conspicuous for benevolence and public spirit Jose G. W. Woodman, late President of the Board of Trade ; Horatio N. ;

H. J. Libby ; George S. Hunt, the successful manager of two of our extensive corporations, and a large owner in our shipping interests ; Francis Macdonald, to whom is due the inception and formation of the Portland Kerosene Oil Company, the Rolling Mills, and the Casco Iron Company; Jacob S. Winslow, Benjamin Webster, and Russell Lewis, three of our heaviest ship-owners ; Weston F. Milliken, the head of one of our largest wholesale houses, and a promoter of steam navigation with the eastern part of the State ; also Woodbury S. Dana, Henry Fox, Hon. Charles H. Has- kell, Charles E. Jose, James P. Baxter, Wm. G. Davis, Charles McLaughlin, C. C. Chapman, Thomas E. Twitchell, Philip H. Brown and John M. Brown.

This list is not regarded as exhaustive in any department. I have spared the modesty of many of the living, and perhaps forgotten many of the dead, who deserve to be remembered. Defective as it may be, how-

ever, it will serve to refresh the memories of those who have grown old among us, and to incite the young to emulate the examples of industry,

enterprise, and probity which it presents. ;

Walks about Town,

FROM MARKET SaUARE TO THE EASTERN PROMENADE.

JIaving now taken a hunied general survey of our city aiul its surroundings, let us indulge in a stroll or two about town for a more leisurely and extended view of its jjublic buildings, private residences, and points of historic interest. If the visitor is stopping at the Preble, or the United States, he finds hinaself, on stepping out-doors, in Market .Square; if at the Falnionlh, or Merchants' Exchange, a short walk up Middle street will l)riug him to the same point ; if at the City Hotel, he has but to walk straight down Con- gress street to reach it. Here he finds himself in the heart of the city. Market Square, in a small way, is to Portland what the Forum was to the ancient Roman cities: a center of business, the scene of popular gatherings, surrounded with stores, hotels, public halls, and places of amusement. Manj' a popular harangue has been listened to here in times of ])()litical excitement, and more than one mob has made riot around its central building. Situated on the ridge of the peninsula, about midway of its length, the Square has a central position, and affords easy access to all parts of the city. Congress street runs straight through it on the north side

Federal and Middle streets enter it on the east, with a "heater" between

them ; Center street, on the south, offers a direct approach to the harbor leading into Commercial street, the wide water front avenue, affording easj- access to all the steambjat lines and tlieir railroad connections ; while on the The Corner of Middle and Exchange Streets

'&ITii-uSfS-*tt..^ ^^SS^

Looking down H 40 PORTLAXD AXD riCIXITY.

north Preble street opens a view of Back Cove and the country bejond, as well as an approach to the station of the Portland and Rochester Railroad. The horse cars start here for Deering, and also for the east and west ends of the city. On the eastern side of the Square the space between Federal and C'on-

gress streets is occupied by the United States Hotel. On the north are C'lapp's Block and Deering's Block, built of brick, and devoted to stores and

offices. In the latter block, at the corner of Preble street, is Music Hall,

fitted up for theatrical entertainments. Oil the opposite corner is the Preble House, enlarged from the ancient mansion of Commodore Preble, of naval fame, and now known as one of our best hotels. Opposite, at the corner of Center street, is the fine brick Lancaster Block, built in 1881. The square presented the appearance shown in our engraving on the pre- ceding page, until the summer of 1888, when the central building was pulled down to make way for an elaborate soldiers' monument to be erected by the city on this site. The old building was one of the landmarks of the city. Many of the citizens objected strongly to its destruction and although the march of

progress has necessitated its disappearance, it deserves a paragraph by itself. It was known as Military Hall, and was the ancient town hall an.l market house, having been built somewhere about 1825. It was built of brick, and

the exterior was originally so plain that the late Charles CJ. Clapp, Esq., a gentleman of much architectural taste, exerted himself to have the front liu- ished with a pediment in the Ionic style which gave the building a somewhat noble appearance as api)roached down Congress street. Here the town-meet-

ings were held before a city charter was obtained ; here the City Government afterward had its rooms ; here the military companies had their armories; and here excited political meetings have been held, and stirring scenes enacted. It was at one time the only hall in the city attainable for concerts and lectures, as well as public meetings of all sorts. Here Garrison has thundered his anathemas against slavery, and here the citizens gathered to denounce the cowardly assault on Senator Sumner. Here Stephen S. Foster was assaulted by a brutal pro-slavery mob, intent on tarring and feathering him, from whom he escaped, not without personal damage, to the residence of Nathan Wins- low near by ; and here, inider the mayoralty of Neal Dow, John Robbins was shot by the military, while acting with an anti-liquor law mob, in an endeavor to destroy' the liquors l)elonging to the city, stored in the basement of the building. Here we have listened to the eloquence of .Sumner and Fessendon, and witnessed the disruption of olii political parties and the formation of new ones. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 41

On holida3's Market Square is the center of movement and display, and often of an evening, when crowds gather around the peddlers and mounte- banks who here take their stands and display their wares under the light of flaming torches, when the sidewalks are thronged with people out for a walk, and the places of amusement are in full blast, the scene presented is a picturesque and animated one. Making the Square our point of departure, let us turn towar

The first building that attracts our attention as we leave the Square, is the residence of Hon. A. W. H. Clapp, ex-member of Congress, an old family mansion, embowered in the foliage of stately trees, with its extensive garden in the rear, — a relic of the days of large cit^- cs tates, which still ho!il its own almost in lli center of business. Next to this stood for one hundred and ten sh (Unitafian) Church. years the residence of Rev. Samuel Deane, the second pastor of the First Parish Church. In 1765 he bought here a three-acre lot, extending from Congress street to Back Cove, altered and and built on it a two-story hipped-roof house ; afterwards greatly modernized, and long the residence of the late Samuel Chadwick. Esq. It was one of the stateliest of our old-time mansions, but has now given way before the march of improvement, and a handsome block of brick stores occupies its site. In this building the Odd Fellows now have their halls, which are elegantly fitted up. The rooms of the Mercantile Library Association were also in this block. This institution was cstaDlished in l^iol, and gathered a library POHTLASD AND VICINITY. of about eight thousand volumes, now united with the Public Library. It contril)uted largely to the enterlaiinnent and instruction of the public by its numerous courses of po])ular lectures, but is not now in active operation. In this building the commodious rooms of the Voung Men's Christian Association are now located. This brings us to the First Parish Church, standing in its spacious lot, and approached by a wide flight of granite steps. It was built in 1825, on the site of the old church which had stood there since 1740, and is constructed of undressed granite; having a floor eighty -two feet long by sixty- two feet wide, and 1-38 pews. Unlike t o many of our churches, there is no sham about this build-

ing ; it does not present a front of one material, with the sides and rear wall of

another, but is solid granite throughout, a good specimen of honest architectural work, complete on all sides. The church worshipping here (Unitarian in faith) is

remarkable for its long pas- torates, there having been but four pastors from 1727 to 1854, — a period of one hundred and thirty-seven years, during which there was no vacancy in the pas-

toral oflice. Rev. Thomas Smith, the first pastor, la- Cheetnut Sir«t M E. Church bored here in the ministry sixty-seven years; his colleague, Rev. Samuel Deane, served fifty years; his colleague and successor. Rev. Ichabod Nichols, ofticiated alone over forty years, and was succeeded by Rev. Horatio Stebbins, who resigned in 18t54.

The present pastor is the learned ex-president of Harvard College, the Rev. Dr. Thomas Hill. In the enclosure, on the west side of the church, we see a marble monu-

ment, erected " to Rev. lehabod Nichols, third pastor of tlie First Parish, in grateful and affcclion.-ite memory of a pastorate of fifty years." In a

niche of the monument is a sculjitured figure of St. John the Evangelist, from the cliisel of the late Paul Akers. In the rear of the church we catch a glimpse of the High School building, a large and well-proportioned biick structure, fronting on Cuniberlaml roirrLAND and virixiry. 43

«tret't. The school affords instruction to both boys and girls, and is under the charge of a Principal with a large corps of assistant teachers. Passing on we come to the junction of Chestnut street, glancing down which we see, on the right, the Chestnut Street (Methodist Ejtisco- pal) Church, an elegant brick etlitice, with two slender spires, in which wor- ships the parent Methodist Society of the city, from which offshoots have been planted in Pine street, and on Munjoy's Hill.

On the opjiosite side of Congress street is the ornate Fluenl's Block, for merly occupied as the Portland Museum, but now the property of the Union Mutual Life In- surance Com- jiany, the dra- mahavingshift- ed its quarters to Music Hall. Theatrical entertainments never gieath flourished in Portland. They were wholly / unknown heie \n'^ l)efore the Re- volution. The first perfoim- ance here wab given October 7th, 1794, by a strolling company from Bos- ton. They came again at intervals, but when union Mutual Insurance Buildmg. virtuous citizens took alarm, in 1806 it was proposed to D-iild a theatre the in which the lead- called a town-meeting, and after an animated discussion, a prohibitory ing citizens took part, succeeded in defeating the project by - law with heavy penalties. The poor players did not again make their a] Hall. Public pearnnee until 1820, when they set up their scenery in Union to evade ojiinion had by this time so far changed that they were enabled erected on tlie law of 1806. In 18.30 a neat and convenient theatre was Free street, at an expense of about $10,000; but still the drama languished, now and in 1836 the building was sold to the Second Baptist Society, and forms one of our most substantial churches. About 1848 a theatre was 44 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. built on Union street, under the convenient veil of a museum, and Joseph Proctor and old Joe Cowell there gave their vigorous and amusing performances. That building was some years after destroyed by fire. A few years since Ueering Hall was fitted up as a theatre, under the name of Music Hall, and occasional performances took place there. In 1874 Fluent Hall was remodeled into a temple of the drama, but in 1880 was abandoiiecl. :iih1 .Music Hall was remodeled and named "New Portland Theatre." This brings us to the City Government Building, which stands on the north side of Congress, directly opjiosite the head of Exchange street. It is an imposing structure, of good architectural proportions, having a frontage of one hundred and fifty feet, a length of two hundred and twenty-one feet, with corner towers seventy-tive feet high, and a central dome swelling up to a height of one hundred and sixty feet. The front is built of the light-colored Nova Scotia Albert-stone; the side and rear walls of pressed brick, with Albert-stone trimmings. Its cost was |it)50,U00, and it contains eighty rooms. Occujjying the site of the old court-house and jail, the county, as well as the city government, has its offices liere. In the basement, with entrances on the Myrtle street side, are the Police Station and

Municipal Court-rooni. The right wing, on the first floor, is occupied by the county offices ; with the Sn])erior Court-room above. The left wing, first floor, is devoted to the city ofticos. The Portland Institute and Public Library has rooms on the northwest corner, in the rear. This institution, managed by an association formed in 18C7, has for its object the maintenance of a public library and institute of natural history, science, and art; to be made free to all as soon as the condition of its funds will warrant. At ])resent it has a library of twenty-six thousand volumes, from which any citizen can take books by paying two dollars per annum. The average monthly issue of books is about three thousand volumes. A reading-room is furnished, where the use of books is free to all comers. This room is also the germ of an art gallery, containing ithotograjihic cojiies of "The Transfiguration," by Ra])hael, in tlie Vatican; of "The Last .Tudsment," bv Michael Angelo, in the Sistine Chapel; busts and portraits of distinguished citizens, and ])aintings by our native artists. 'J'he rooms are ojn'ii to all, on secular days, f?-oin 10 A. ^I. lo ;• P. M. On the second floor, reached by a wide staircase of iron, is the City Hall, a noble ajiartment, one hundred and thirteen feet long, eighty feet wide, and thirty-five feet high. It is handsomely finished, has a gallery on three sides, and will contain thnc thousand ])eople, though the seating capacity is about twenty-fi\i' liumlrrd. Here are given grand concerts, and courses of lectures, and great popular gatherings and receptions of distinguished persons are held. Connected with it are Reception and Rossini Halls, lieside sm.aller rooms; the whole making a grand suite of apartments. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 45.

On the third floor are the rooms of the Maine Historical Society. This Society was organized here Ajiril 11, 1822, bat for many years its headquarters were in Brunswicli. Its library of bound books numbers 11,000, and it has an equal number of unbound pamphlets. It also possesses a valuable cabinet of curiosities and historical relics. One object of the Society is to gather and preserve all documents relating to the early history of Maine^ and contributions of letters, autograplis, manuscript sermons, journals and diaries are solicited. The Society has issued many valuable publications, and has been instrumental in preserving much information in regard to our early history, manners, and customs. Its rooms, in charge of the Assistant

United States Hotel.

Librarian, H. W. Bryant, are open to all interested in historical studies. The collections of the Portland Society of Natural History, which for ten years occupied these rooms, have been removed to the Society's elegant new building, erected in 1880, on Elm street, at a cost of a little more than

$20,000. Here it has spacious cabinets, and library and lecture rooms, with every convenience that could be devised for such an institution. The rooms* in charge of the Cabinet-keeper, C. B. Fuller, are open to the public. Passing on a short distance we come next to the Payson Memorial Church, whose beautiful lancet spire, rising to a height of one hundred and seventy-five feet, attracts the eye by its graceful proportions. Tliis church, built of brick, with a heavy front of Hallowell granite, or gneiss, is seventy-three feet wide by ninety long, and has two projecting towers. 46 PORTLAND ASD VICIMTY.

With its two arcades of five arches the fayade is imposing and beautiful.

Tlie society worshipping here is the old Second Parish (Congregational) Church, an offshoot of the First Parish in 1787, to which administered

tiie Rev. Edward Payson for twenty years, — from 1807 to his untimely death in 1827, at the age of forty-seven years. After the old meeiiug-

house was destroyed by the fire of 1866 it was resolved that the new church, built on a ni'w sito. should bear the name of the lamented pastor, the most eloquent preacher of his day. The late pastor,

Rev. Dr. John .1. Carrnthcrs, a native of Scotland, was installed August 9, 1846. and released a few years since, after a service of more than

thirty years. He is still living among us, in the eighty- ninth year of his age. Tlu- present pastor of the Church

is the Rev. Charles II.

l):iniels. A few steps farther will bring us to the First Haptist

Church, with its handsome Norman-gothic front of hewn Connecticut freestone, {.rim- med with olive freestone, elaborately carved and finished about the windows, doors, and belt-courses. The

st^le is massive and imposing, though the church sets low upon the sidewalk. (Corgiegation.i) Chut. This, too. is a new erec-

tion, springing out of the ashes of the great fire of 1866. The society worshipping here was organized in 1801, and so restricted was freedom of religious opinion at that time, that as late as 1820 an Act of the Leg- islature was necessary to enalile persons to leave any other society and join the First Baptist Society. The late pastor. Rev. William II. Shailer. I). D., had a successful pastorate of twenty-four years, retiring in 1^<77, and

We are now opposite Lincoln Park. — which is rather a public square. — bouniled bv Congress. Franklin, Federal, and I'eMrl siieets, and having ;

POETLAXD AND VICIXITY. 47

an area of little less than two and a half acres. It has a central fountain, which sends up its cooling jets on summer days, its greensward, its seats for loungers, its concrete walks, and its outlines of trees, which, with the aid of time, will afford both shade and beauty. Evening stroll-

ers find it a pleasant resort, and children delight to sail their boats in the great basin of the fountain. This breath- ing place was appropriated from the thickly-settled ]ior- tion of the city swept over by the fire of 1866. Stand- ing in its center, and swee]i- ing around on all sides, the eye falls on no structure that stood prior to that year. The imposing City Govern- ment Building, the handsome churches just described, the Cathedral and Bishop's residence, the towering North School-House, the elegant private residences, — all to be seen from this point, — have sprung out of the ashes of the old city within the past fifteen years. We have now reached the corner of Franklin street, which runs straight across the city, and this is the only point, where, standing in the street, you can see, in a straight line, on one hand the waters of the harbor, and on the other those of Back Cove. Here, too, we come upon the palatial residence of the Rom&n Catholic Bishop of the diocese of Maine and New Hampshire, — a brick edifice, in a pointed style of architecture in the rear of which, with connecting chapel between, stands the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, fronting on Cumberland street. This is the largest and most costly church in Maine. It is one hundred and ninety- six by one hundred feet on the ground, and seventy feet in height. The slated spire — which is simply hideous, lapping over the tower like an e.\- tinguisher on a candle, — rises to a height of two hundred and thirty-six feet, — being thus sixteen feet higher than Bunker Hill Monument. Out- wardly, the building is not so attractive in material as in form, being built

of bricks considerably mortar-stained ; but its imposing bulk, in connection with its chapel, (which is itself a good-sized church, joined to it as an L, and opening into it near the grand altar), and the Bishop's Palace, — unique in architecture, and of great size, — form, together, the most marked feature 48 POIiTL.l\£> AXD VICmiTY. in the architecture of our city. As to the interior of the Cathedral, in sym- metry of proportions and in elegance of decoration, it is surpassed by few- churches in the country. The lofty walls and graceful arches are covered with a wealth of harmonious colors, wliile the stained windows, rich with figures and emblems ; the elaborately ornate altar ; the great organ in the music-gallery, and the brilliant circular window behind it; the shrine of the Virgin, with its arches and crowns of light on festal occasions, form, together, an imposing and beautiful spectacle. The first Koman Catholic S^

Church was formed here in 1822. In 1S3U St. Dominic's Church (since much enlarged) was built on State street. The diocese of Portland, including the States of Maine and New Hampshire, was formed in 1S;J3. and the Right Rev. David Bacon, D. D., was ap])ointe

A few of our Chun VICiyiTY. 50 POUTLAND AXD

in charge of died, deeply lamented, in the year 1874, and the diocese is now Bishop Ilealey. stands the On the old Hay Scale lot, adjoining the Episcopal residence, completed in handsome structure known as the " Kavanagh School." It was from a generous 1877, at a cost of nearly 123,000, the funds being derived school is donation of $25,000 from Miss Kavanagh, of Damariscotta. The congregation. supported as a free school by the Catholics of the Cathedral on the corner of We are now just opposite the head of Hampshire street, fashionable tavern of which, in the days before the Revolution, stood the a low, one-storied struct- the town, kept by Widow Alice Greele. It was but social parties. Here the ure, but was a famous place of resort for clubs and entertained here courts sat, and conven- lawyers, traveling on circuit, were ; of the town resorted, and many a mu-j; of tions were held ; and here the wags cracked, in the days succeeding, as " flip" was drank, and many a good joke saved her house when well as previous to, the Revolution,— for Widow Greele the flames. ^lowatt burned the town, by remaining in it and extinguishing balls were hurtling through tha When all around was burning, and cannon destruction. It was removed air, she stood by her liouse and saved it from to Washington street about 1846. street, and the little Strolling on, a few steps farther bring us to Locust This church, picturesque church of St. Paul's, built of our native slate-rock. the to the west end . took built after the fire of 1856 had driven St. Stephen's bears on its walls the name of an earlier Episcopal organization here, and lamentable death dates 17G3-1868. It suffered a sad loss in the untimely and fell a victim to malignant of its first rector, the Rev. N. W. T. Root, who small-pox. on the vacant A short w.vlk now brings us to the head of India street, Thomas Smith, burned in the lot opposite which stood the house of the Rev. a fine view, down destruction of the town by Mowatt, in 1775. It commanded ocean beyond. The neigh- India street, of the harbor and the Cape, with the perpetuates the boring Smith street, running nortiierly to Cumberland street, name of the good old parson. formerly the Thomas At the corner of Congress and India streets, where Messiah, other- mansion stood, now rises the tall spire of the Church of the structure, with massive wise the Second Universalist, a substantial brick of the First Universalist tower. This society was formed after the removal 18G5. Society to their new church in Congress Square, in School-House, on Adjoining this church, on the east, stands the North Whilmore flogged tlie boys the spot where, in the old grammar-school, Master structure, of brick, containing a for many a year. It is a huge, four-storied twenty-six teachers congeries of primary and grammar-schools, comprising and twelve hundred scholars, all under one principal. : !

PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 51

The school-house looks down upon the Eastern Cemetery, — the oldest graveyard in Portland. For two hundred years a portion of it was the only common -burial-place in the territory now included in the limits of the city.

Here the rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep ; here, probably, Gcoreje

Cleeve our first settler, was buried ; and here, in later times, the early families, whose names are still familiar among us, found a last resting-place.

Originally quite small, the cemetery has been enlarged until it contains about six acres, thickly crowded with graves. The original burying-place was in the southwest corner, where stood a tall pine tree, long a landmark for the weather-tossed mariners, and under whose protecting branches the dead clustered thickest. It is an elevated site, looking down upon the city and the sea. Here may still be seen the old-fashioned, heavy gravestones of slate, ornamented with winged heads or skulls, and funereal urns, over which droop weeping' willows. They bear long inscriptions, — now half obliterated, — setting forth the virtues of the departed. The oldest stone we have been able to find is that of Mrs. Mary Green, who died May 23, 1717. In this corner are found the tomb of Parson Smith and his many wives and sons, — restored by the First Parish Church, in 1846; and the quaint old red-sandstone monument of Sheriff Tyng, of the revolutionary era. On the opposite side of the yard, towards Mountfort sti-cet, are the monuments erected to the memory of the naval heroes, — William Bur- roughs, of the U. S. Brig Enterprise, and Samuel Blythe, of His Majesty's Brig Boxer, — who fought and died together, off this coast, on the 5th of September, 1813, and were buried here, with imposing and impressive ceremonies, on the 8th of September. Beside them lies Lieutenant Kervin Waters, of the Enterprise, mortally wounded in the same action, of which Longfellow sings

" I remember tlie sea-light far awa)', How it thuudered o'er the tide And the dead captains, as they lay In their graves o'erlookiug the tranquil bay, Where they in battle died."

The navy is well represented here. Commodore Preble had his white

marble monument ; and here also is commemorated the death of the gallant Lieutenant Henry Wadsworth, (uncle of the poet Longfellow, and for whom he was named), who fell before Tripoli, in 1804. The Rev. Dr. Edward Payson also was buried here; and an ornamental shaft of white marble marks the resting-place of the Rev. Mr. Reese, of the Universalist Church. Most of the old monuments are box-like structures of brick or granite, or tables supported on four pillars. The grass grows rankly over the crowded graves; the elms and poplars, which have sprung up at their own sweet

will, cast here and there a shade ; and year by year the gravestones settle and grow more and more awry. 52 POSTLAyu AXD VICIMTY.

Passing out of the cemetery, and continuing our way along Congress street, we find ourselves at the foot of Munjoy's Hill, so called from George Munjoy, an early settler, who built his residence on the liill as early as 1661. A sightly elevation, rising to a height of one hundred and sixty-six feet above the sea, and terminating the peninsula on which the city" is built, " The Hill," as it is popularly called, has been the scene of stirring events in our history. It was here, in 1690, that Lieutenant Thad- deus Clark, with thirteen men, was shot by Indians in ambush, while recon-

Observaloty, and Congress Street M. E. Church.

noitering, — the hill being then covered with woods; here, in 1717, in a spacious tent, Lieutenant Governor Dunimer made a treaty with the Indians, who came "with French colors and made a great show," — a treaty which ensured peace for many years; here, in 1775, Colonel Thom]i- son, of Brunswick, encamped with his men in a thick grove of pines, and seized Ca]>tain Mowatt as he was walking on the hill, in revenge for which the Ca])tain afterwards burned the town; here, in 1808, took place the third and last execution for murder which ever occurred in this city, Joseph Drew being hanged, in the ])resence of a large concourse of people, for fatally striking Deputy Sheriff Parker while in tlie discharge poutla.xd a\d vicinity. 53

of his duty; and here, too, on tlie slope we are now ascending, arose, after the great lire of 1866, the unique village of tents which gave temporary slielter to a large portion of the houseless population of the city. This area lying on our right, and immediately below the Observatory,-— now covered with an unsightly huddle of cheap tenement-houses, — was once the play- ground of the city; the scene of "General Musters" and Fourth of July celebrations, where holiday soldiers paraded, and tents were pitched, and booths dispensed beer and gingerbread to hungry crowds, who found anuise- ment in peep-shows and flying-horses, and where boys — now grown gray- headed men — listened with open mouths to the revolutionary songs of Johnny Avery. It was a jjleasant spot, high and green, looking down upon the city and the harbor, and commanding a wide and beautiful view. Cut down for the sake of its gravel, this part of the hill has been degraded in more senses than one. At the Observatory we strike the old sod again. This red-shingled tower is eighty-two feet high, and was built in 1807, for the purpose of signalizing sbipjiing approaching the harbor. In the three-quarters of a century which have elapsed since its erection, many an eye has been gladdened by the flag thrown out on one of its three flag-staffs, indicat- ing the approach of some long-absent ship ; and many a storm-tossed vessel has been saved from wreck by the succor sent out through timely intelligence from this watch-tower, where the sailor's good genius sits up aloft and sweeps the horizon with his glass. Here, for a small fee, the visitor may take a peep through the telescope which swings from the ceiling of the look-out, and observe the ships far out at sea. This is the best place in the city to obtain a good view of the surrounding scenery. Towards the northeast lies Casco Bay, dotted with many beautiful islands. Looking eastward, only four miles distant, the broad Atlantic sweeps with its never-ceasing swell ; and a southwesterly view takes in the harbor with its shipping, and the city extending along its narrow peninsula. North- westerly, Mount Washington may be distinctly seen, towering above the distant ranges of mountains. Adjoining the Observator-y stands the Congress street (Methodist Epis- cojial) Church, erected in 1868. It is a beautiful temjile, both as to its exterior and interior. Its location is very sightly, being upon the highest part of Munjoy. The lofty and graceful spire is a conspicuou-5 object as seen from the harbor and from the sea. Its summit is the highest object in the city.

Munjoy has other churches : the St. Lawrence Street (Congregational)

Church, erected in 1857, of which the Rev. Mr. Wright is now the pastor; and two churches for colored people, — who have always had a proclivity for Munjoy's Hill, — the Abyssinian, (Congregational), and the Mountfort Street African (Methodist Episcopal) Church. —

54 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

If now we turn

to the left, thvoiigli North street, s^ which runs northerly along the ridge of the hill, — we obtain a striking view, across the waters of Back Cove, of the city,

with its many church spires, extending to the lilnfT on Braui- hall's Hill, where the Maine General Hos- pital stands out con-

spicuously. The eit3' here, owing to the curve made by Mun- joy's Hill, seems like a bent bow enclosing the waters of Back Cove, and we are Post-Office. looking1 1 across fromr one end to the other. From this point, too, we command the opposite shores of Deering, diversified with groves and villages. On North street stamls the " Shailer School," erected by the cit3' in 1880. Returning and continuing along Congress street, we descend the eastern slope of the hill, until we come to the Eastern Promenade, — a wide avenue encircling the hill, and commanding fine views of the ba3'. At'tlie end of d in- gress street and on the brow of the bluff, is a plain, granite shaft, dedicated

July 4, 1883, to the memory of George Cleeve, the founder of Portland. Looking from this point, on the left, we see the ship-building village of East Deering, with the Marine Hospital at Martin's Point, and Falmouth Foreside trending away in the distance. On the right, Fort Gorges rises solidly from its wave-washed ledge, with Peak's Island beyond, and outside of that the broad blue ocean. In the foreground lies Mackay's Island, and farther down the bay appear the Diamond Islands, Chebeague, and the multitude of those which at its eastern end enclose it from the sea. On Munjoy's Hill, cast side of North street, beyond the Shailer School, the Portland Water Company are at present (1888) engaged in constructing a new reservoir. The capacity will be about twenty million gallons, and it is expected that the work will be finished in December. The reservoir is of irregular dimensions, covers an area of about 200,000 square feet, and its bottom is 12;') feet above tide water. The cost will be 8100,000. This reservoir will be connected with the one on Bramhalls Hill, and the two, with the PORTLAND AND VICINITT. 55

24-inch main, will supply the low levels of the cit^'. The high levels will be supplied bj- the 20-inch main, direct from Sebago Lake, which is 267 feet above tide water at Portland. FROM MARKET SQUARE TO THE "WESTERN PROMENADE.

Again making Market .Square our point of departure, let us now turn westward and liesurelj' stroll up Congress street. From this point to Congress

Square — nearly half a mile — there is a gradual rise ; the street is of good width, contains some fine business blocks, and is the scene of much of the retail traffic of the cit}', of a miscellaneous character. Being the main avenue down town, from the west end, it is often thronged,— particularly of a pleasant evening, — and presents an animated spectacle. Taking the northwest side, we come to the Preble House, of which we have already spoken, and where we shall be apt to find, beneath the shade of its four magnificent elms, (relics of the departed glories of the Preble mansion), groups of visitors and loungers picking their teeth after dinner, and watching the passers-b}'. Next to the Preble House we come to an old brick mansion, " somewhat back from the village street," beneath the shade of drooping elms, which lingers here in the bus}' scene of trade aud_,tr.avel like some octogenarian who

finds himself alone in the midst of a new and strange generation. It is the first brick house built in Portland. General Peleg Wadsworth (who in his

da}' was a man of militarj- renown ; second in command in the expedition to

the Penobscot, in 1779, the first Representative in Congress from this Dis-

trict), built this house in 1785, or ] rather commenced it in that j'ear, for

though but a two-stor}' house, it was two summers in the building. His son-

in-law, Stephen Longfellow, who afterwards occupied it, added a third story

to it : the line of addition being still visible in the weather-worn bricks. It

is a plain, old-fashioned mansion, a little mellowed bj' age, but still cmi- nenti}- respect able, and stuid ily holding itb

own, though it

is overshadowed

b}- its overgrown neighbors.

It is knov\ n as the Longftl low House, and the impression generally' pi e vails that the poet was boi u

in it. That hon or, however, be longs to an old —

56 PORTLAND AXD VICIXITY.

wooden house on Fore street, which we shall come upon in our next walk. The poet lived in his house in his j-outh, and it is still in possession of liis family. But let us move on. Passing Morton Block, and Brown street, we come to Brown's Block, where the Portland Army and Navy Union, formed HI 1866 by resident sol- i^f^'^^V^ ,.,,^. diers and sailors who served in the late war

for the Union, has its headquarters. It has a reading-room, and a valuable militarj- library,

and for man^y 3-ears entertained the town with

a series of first - class lectures and concerts, the profits going to assist the widows and orphans of deceased soldiers and sailors, and those disa- bled b}- the war. Across the street from this point, we see on the respective corners of

Brown street tiie Beaver and Franklin blocks, beautiful four-story brick buildings of modern architecture erected in 1885.

The next building worth3' of mention is Mechanic's Hall, a handsome structure, with granite front, standing at the junction of Congress and Casco streets. It was erected in 1857-9, at a cost of $40,000, by the Maine Char-

itable Mechanic's Association : an organization formed for charitable and educational purposes b}- our mechanics in 1815. The association, which includes three hundred and seven of the best mechanics in the city, now owns

the building clear of debt ; has a librar}- of nearly five thousand volumes, free to members and their apprentices, and maintains a free evening school for instruction in industrial drawing. On the northwest corner of Casco and Congress streets is " The Brown Block," erected in 1883-4 and comnionlj- called the BrownMemorial Building . It is four stoiies in height and is one of the finest edifices in the city.

Glancing down Casco street, as we cross the head of it, we see a high wooden church standing on the cliff which falls into Cumberland street.

This is the Casco Street (Frec-Will Baptist) Church, the clock in tii e

tower of which is one of the most useful time-pieces in Portland, being visible, on account of the peculiar position of the church, over a very large PORTLAND AND VICINIIY. section of the city. The church was built in 1827, by the Christian Con- nection, and passed into the possession of the Free- Will Baptists in 1843. Continuing up Congress street, past the junction of Oak street, we come to the block in which were the rooms of the Portland Fraternit3', now removed to Free street, where this useful institution maintains a free evening school and a reading-room. Just across the way is Huck- ster's Row, an ancient seat of retail trade; and in the second story of the block, entrance on Free street, is Union Hall, our oldest hall, the scene of many a gaj' ball half a century ago ;it was once occupied as a theatre, has often served as a church, and of late has been the headquarters of the Haydn Association.

On the corner of Green street, opposite the Row, stands the Cit}' Hotel,

— recent enlargements and improvements of which have made it quite popular with travelers and visitors to our city. We now approach Congress Square, formed by the widening of Con- gress street and the junction of Free street coming in on a parallel line on the left; the block between the two streets terminating in a "heater." High street enters on the south, and goes out on the north as New High street. This square has an elevated site, the two High streets falling off rapidly on either side. It is a sort of Zion's Hill, being surrounded with churches of various denominations. On Free street, near its junction with the square, stands the Free Street (Baptist) Church, built as a theatre in

1830 ; sold to the Second Baptist Society in 1835 remodeled into a church and dedicated in 1836. The graceful spire of this church has been taken down. On High street, near its entrance into the square, rises the High 58 PORTLAyi) AND VICINITY.

Street (Congregational) Church built in 1831, and remodeled in the Gothic

st^le in 1869 ; having now a lofty square tower, surmounted l\v a central

pinnacle and a group of lesser ones, attracting the eye by its unique blend-

ing of strength and grace. The interior of this church is ver^' elegant and graceful. The second pastor, the Rev. Dr. J. W. Chickering, served for nearl}- thirty years, and won the warm affection of his people. His suc-

cesssor, the Uev. William II. Fenn, was installed in 1866. Nearly opposite this church stands the First Universalist

Church, of which the Rev. Henry Blanchard is pastor. This edifice was built in 1865, at a cost of something more than $60,000. A little way down New High street we see the New Jerusalem Temple, in which the doctrines of Emanuel Swedenborg are promulgated. This church, which has a

';;j. "VV^^'> 'iliiilill

Congress Squaro, from head of Free Street somewhat peculiar style of architecture, was built in 1868. The Rev. Wil- liam B. Ilayden was for manj' years pastor of this societ\-. The Rev. H. C.

Dunham is the present pastor. Just beyond the square, on the continuation of Congress street, stands I'lymouth Church, a brick structure, with a square tower. The old Third Parish Society, to which the Rev. Dr. AVilliam T. Dwiglit ministered for so many years, was merged with this church a fi'w years since. The pres'-nt pastor is the Rev. John M. Lowden, D. D. Having now completed the circuit of the churches which surround the Square, we might, if time allowed, linger long about some of the old mansions in anil near it, particularly tlie Matthew Cobb house, which stands on PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 59 the corner of High street, a square, old-fashioned mansion, which carries us back some sixty or seventy' years to the time when its owner and occupant was one of our leading merchants, with a numerous family about him, keeping his carriage and coachman, and entertaining his friends with a o-enerous hospitality or the ; McLellan mansion, next below the High Street Church, an edifice which still preserves the old-time architecture and rich internal finish, and is_^now the residence of the Hon. L. D. M. vSweat. It was over the high fence surrounding the garden of this mansion that one of our native artists, when a boy, first caught sight of a statue, and thereafter was accustomed to'run away on Sundays from his own church that he might sit in the gallery of High Street^Church, and, looking out of the window, feast his

Congress and Paik Streets — Res dence of M s Harr et Sma I eyes on the art treasures of what seemed to him a veritable Paradise. He has since seen the master-pieces of the Old World, but we doubt if any of them awakened in his mind such feelings of pleasure and admiration as did those figures in the garden of this home of taste and wealth. Continuing up Congress street, on the right-hand side, almost directly opposite the Plymouth Church, we come upon the new building to be the future home of the Portland Institute and Public Library and of the Maine Histori- cal Society. It is a striking looking structure of Romanesque architecture, built of sandstone. The ornamentation is elaborate, and the front is adorned with three statues, one on the apex of the roof, and one each on the corners, the three representing History, Art, and Literature. The building covers 60 PORTLAND AND VICISITY.

6,339 square feet, is seventy-two feet long, and the height, exclusive of the statue on the apex, is sixty-two feet. This building is the gift of Mr. James P. Baxter, one of the most prominent citizens of Portland, to the two institutions that are to occupy it. In the rear of this building is the museum of the Portland Society of Art, in erected 1884 ; the rooms are open daily from 10 A. M. to p. M., 9 most of the year ; a wide corridor leads to it through the basement of the library building, and there is also an entrance on Deering street. But it is time to move on. Continuing up Congress street we pass the house of Mrs. Harriet Small, at the corner of Park, glancing down which we catch a glimpse in the distance of the Park Street (Unitarian) Church, erected in 1828, by the Methodists, and sold in 183.5 to the Second Unitarian Society, over which the Rev. Jason Whitman was first settled, and of which

the Rev. Ciiarles ^Y . Buck was the last settled pastor.

State Street, from C'^'-cross.

Our attention is next attracted by St. Stephen's Church, a picturesque Gothic edifice, built of our native slate-rock, massive and handsome. It was erected in 1854, and the Rev. Asa Dalton has been rector of the church since 1863.

This brings us to the head of Stale street which comes in diagonally on the left, and continuing across Congress street, slopes down through the vacant land to Portland street. Slate street (the gift of one of our earl}- merchants, Joseph II. Ingraham.) is the handsomest avenue for private residences in the city. Of great wi.llh, it is lined on each side with two rows of lofty elras, whose overhanging branches embower it in foliage. Between the two rows of trees, outside each sidewalk, there runs a grassy plot, which gives the street a park-like appearance. The large and sul)stanti:il mansions PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 61

here are chieflj* of the olden time ; each with its spacious garden in the rear. This house with plain granite front, on the left, near the head of the street, was the residence of John Neal, the poet and novelist. That large, square mansion, a little farther down, across the way, was long the residence of the late Hon. William Pitt Fessenden, and in the garden in the rear he found health and recreation in pruning his fruit trees. The neighboring house was occupied b}- the late George F. Shepley. The mansions on this southwesterly side of the street, as we have said, are of the stately and spacious old- fashioned style, each standing in the midst of extensive grounds. As a contrast, take the elegant modern residence of C.

A. Brown, 1 sq , on the opposite side of tlic street, which well represents, the architecliu-

al taste ol its day.

State stioct has three hous».~.

of worship < 1 each of winch

we must si> i word. The fust

on the left i-.

we pass down :- the State Stitct Congregation il Church, the so ciety wprsliip-

ping in which state street.— Residence of the late Judge George F. Shepley. was an offshoot from High Street Church. The edifice was erected in 1852, mainly of brick, in the Gothic order, with a lofty and graceful spire of wood, which was taken down in 1871, from a feeling that it was insecure, leaving the wooden tower in a mutilated condition. The Rev. Edward Y. Hincks was the pastor during the years 1870 and 1881. A little farther down the street we come to St. Luke's Cathedral, built in 1867, of blue limestone, with trimmings of red and gray freestone, in the early Gothic style. This church is not j-et completed, the present structure being the main edifice, to which a transept is to be added at the north end. The interior is very richly finished. St. Luke's is the first edifice erected by Protestants in 62 POIiTLAyD AXD VICiyiTT.

New England for a Cathedral, or Bishop's Church, and its service is more

ritualistic than that of an ordinary parish church. It is intended as a centre

for the Episcopal Church in the diocese, and is under the immediate charge of the Bishop, — an office now filled by Bishop Necly. Still farther down, on the opposite side of the street, stood the Roman Catholic Church of St. Dom- inic's, built in 1830; but this edifice was taken down the past spring and a

spacious and handsome church is now being erected. Connected with it, but fronting on Gray street, is the large Catholic School of St. Dominic's, erected

in I860. Its teachers are the Sisters of Notre Dame, and it will accommodate about four hundred scholars. On the corner of Danforth and State streets rises a large, three-story brick mansion, occupied as the Female Orphan Asylum, where between thirty and forty girls are cared for, and put into other homes as they grow up. This institution was established in 1828, through the contributions of benevo-

lent citizens ; has always been well managed by a board of ladies, and now holds property to the value of at least S50,()00.

At the junction of Slate and Congress streets, a monument is to l)e erected to the memorv of the poet Longfellow. It will consist of a pedestal of redC'onway granite, surmounted by a figure of the poet in a sitting posture.

Thoydesigu of the pedestal is by Mr. V. H. Fassett, and the figure is the creation of Mr. Franklin Simmons, of Rome.

Stat* Raform School. PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

On Pine street, near the junction of Slate and Congress, maj- be seen the Pine Street (Methodist) Church, a fine bricii edifice, which^shows what can be done in the way of adapting a piece of architecture to a limited lot of ground. It was built in 1875.

Near the head of Mellen, two streets beyond State, where it enters Con- gress street, we pause to look off upon " the breezy dome of groves, The shadows of Deering's Woods," of which Longfellow sings again :

" And Deering's Woods are fresh and fair, And with joy that is almost pain My bsart goes back to wander there, And among the dreams of the days that were, I find my lost youtli again." Many another Portland boy finds his lost j'outh again as he recalls the daj-s when he went " acorning" in Deering's Woods. The view from this point is wide and beautiful. Congress street, as we have said, runs along the ridge of the peninsula, whicii, at this point, slopes rapidly down to the head of the creek running in from Back Cove. On the shore of this creek rise Deering's Woods, a tract of woodland which has now come into possession of the city, and is to be preserved as a public park. Congress street here looks oflf over "the breez^f dome" of these woods, commanding a view of the villages in Deering, the diversified country beyond, and the snow-clad peaks of the White Mountains on the dim horizon. Just before reaching Mellen street we pass the residence of General Neal Dow, at the corner of Congress and Dow streets. 64 POSTLAND AND VICINITY.

A short walk farther brings us to the junction of Grove and Brarahall streets with Congress, and here the Spring street and Congress street horse car lines make a junction, and passengers can be transferred. Turning into Brauihall street we soon reach, at the junction of this street with Chadwick and Brackett, the reservoir of the Portland Water Works, supplied by Lake Sebago. seventeen miles distant, and having an area of one hundred tiiousand square feet with a capacity of about twelve millions of gallons. Turning in Brackett street we soon pass into Arsenal street, and find ourselves in front of the Maine General Hospital, standing on the brow of Bramhall's Hill, on the site of the old State Arsenal. This noble institution, incorporated by Act of Legislature in 1868, aided bj- State bounty and the contributions of private citizens, was dedicated in October, 1874: The plan of the hospital contemplates a cluster of build-

ings, embodying all the modern improvements of good ventilation,

- , free admission of air

;^4j!>m>>- and sunlight, with an '-- ",-»• adequate suppl3- of heat and pure water. While ~" \' this plan has not as yet

p-"f ^f 3 5 [rT^^ii i)een completed in all

its details, a magnificent pile of buildings lias been erected and — nianj- additions have — been made from j'ear to year. The main The New Union Station. buildings are handsome

structures of brick, in the Italian-gothic style, four stories high ; the private apartments and wards being very neatly finished. The establishment of the

institution is largely due to the efforts of our physicians and surgeons, who render important services without pecuniary compensation. The hospital received a bequest of $100,000 b}' the will of the late Hon.

Abner Coburn, several \'ears since, and although there was considerable liti- gation about the matter, in 1886 the case was decided in favor of the hospital. Since then the income derived from this source, together with the usual private contributions and a small amount of state aid, the hospital has been enabled to give one-half or more of its services to free patients. Patients have been received from all parts of the State, — Portland furnishing only about twenty per cent, of the number. This is a State institution, now in its infancy, but destined to grow in usefulness with the munificence of the State and of

private benefactors. It stands upon a breezy, healthful site, and its windoivs PORTLANU AND VICINITY. 65 look out upon a broad expanse of country, bounded bj' distant mountains, and comprising a lovely prospect.

A few steps now bring us out upon the Western Promenade, wliicli runs along the brow of Bramliall's Hill, and commands a wide and varied landscape. In 1680 George Bramhall (from whom the hill takes its name) came here and buying a tract of four hundred acres, hewed himself out a home in the primitive forest which then covered the hill, and pursued his

Bramhall's Hill.— Residence of the lale Hon. John B. Brown.

trade as a tanner. The hill here falls off suddenly ; the steep descent being partiall}' clothed vrith odorous pines. At its foot the green lateral ridges tell the tale of some pre-historic landslide, when a great river flowed where now the railroad runs. It was down there, where we see the Deering Man- sion, on the right, that Major Church whipped the Indians in September,

1689 ; in which fight George Bramliall was killed. We maj' be sure it was an hour of rejoicing when, about sunset, the troops marched back with ;

66 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

flying colors, throii<

-tv hoys — the waifs and astrays of society — are put to useful pursuits under refornoatory influences. The prison-like features of the institution have been eliminated, and the boys are now divided into three grades, and for good conduct are promoted through them, from the lowest to the highest. Let us seat ourselves here and look into the sunset. The gleaming waters of Fore River on one hand, and of Back Cove on the other, almost encircle flif .•lovniion on wlioso lu-ow -n-p =:it. 'n,,- Lrici'ii sloijc of the bill

Stretches away into a wide prospect of field and woodland, diversified liy villages and farm-houses, and swelling in the distance into forest-clad liills. AVith Abner Lowell's sketch of the summits to be seen from this point in our hands, we may make out the Town Hall and Congregational Church in Gorham, Me., and behind them Ossipee Mountain, in New Hampshire, fifty-three miles away. Also, farther to the east, the church in .Standish,

Me., with the peak of old Chocorua rising far beyond it. .Sweeping along the billowy line we see Mount Carrigain, si.Kty-three miles distant nearer at hand the long lino of .S.addleback, in Sebago, Me., and then the eye strikes the White Mountain Range, and climbs from peak to peak, over Mounts AVillard, Welister, Jackson. I'lcasant, Franklin, and Munroe, to the white dome of Mount Washington, mingling with the clouds on the horizon. PORTLAND AND VICINITT. 67

At the foot of the blufls the new Union Station stands almost directly beneath the hospital and makes a most beautiful and picturesqae addition to the landscape. The inner line of the

Promenade is bordered with fine residences, most notable of

which is that of the late John

B . Brown, standing in the midst of ten acres of highly improved and cultivated land, with gardens adorned with rare plants and 68 PORTLAND AXD VICINITY.

Statuary, and overlooking a wide extent of beautiful scenerj'. The house is not fully \isible from the promenade on account of the line of trees on the edge of the estate. Turning down Bowdoin street, with the Brown estate on the left, we pass a line of beautiful residences of the Queen Anne style of architecture, all erected

within the past few years. Turning into Vaughn street, the first avenue on the right, and skirting the eastern side of the Western Cemetery, we enter Danforth street. From this point excellent views arc obtained of the harbor, the business section, and the railroads at the foot of the bluffs, of the islands. Capo Elizabetli, and the ocean beyond. As soon as we enter Danforth .street we come upon the residence of II. B. Brown, the artist, whose studio, atiiu lu'd to his house, is an attractive point for all lovers of art.

Some distance farliicr on tlie side of the street nearest the harbor tuv the twin mansions formerly the residences of Messrs. Andrew and .SaniMi-i E. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 69

Spring. On Emeiy street, which enters here, we see the Home for Aged Wo- men, a handsome brick edifice, where some twenty or more old ladies pass the evening of their days in quiet and comfort, paying onl}' an entrance fee of one hundred dollars. The institution is under the charge of an association of ladies representing the various churches of the city. This institution was incorporated October, 1854. The president is Mrs. J. T. Oilman, and the ni;\tron in fharoje of the home is Mrs. Carrie E. Marston.

Continuing down Danforth street, to the corner of Park street, we come upon the elegant mansion of Ruggles S. Morse, Esq., built of free- Btone, in a highly ornamented style; at the time of its erection considered a very fine specimen of architectural taste, and then also the most costly private residence in the city. A little farther down, on the corner of High street, we may contrast this modern residence with the old-time mansion of the late John Mussey, Esq., a building of spacious front, seated in the midst of its old-fashioned garden, and surrounded with magnificent elms, whose lofty summits and wide-sweeping branches are worth coming far to see. Turning now up High street we are soon in Congress Square again, and so ends our second walk. 70 PORTLAyD AND VICINITY.

FROU MABKET SaUARE TO INDIA AND COHUERCIAL STREEIS.

If the visitor again finds liiiuseif in Market Square, some bright nioni- ing, he cannot do better than to turn eastward and saunter down Mi(Ulle

street. This is one of our oldest thoroughfares, having been accepted by the town as long ago as 1724, previous to which tinie a path had been opened through the woods. It was originally called " the Middle street," from its relative position between "the Fore" and " the Back" streets, which name it has ever since borne. Though originally' occupied by the

South Sid« of Middle Stte«t, from Cross to Union. dwelling-houses of the early settlers, the old-time mansions have long since given place to the demands of traffic, and Middle street is now one of our principal business avenues, ciiiefl}- devoted to the retail dry-goods trade.

Leaving Market Square on the left, we pass down Middle street from the point where it enters the square to its junction with Free street. Tliis portion of the street escai)cd the tire of 1866, and the stores here are plain brick structures, some of them of comparatively ancient date. Tiiat low PORTLAND AND VICiyiTY. 71 block of two stories, on the left, is a spared monument of the great fire, having been saved from destruction, while the stores on both sides of it were leveled to the ground. It was remodeled in 1873, the three original stories being reduced to two, but its low roof, in contrast with the loftier structures around it, still serves to remind us of the humbler stjie of building which prevailed fifty years ago. street Free enters here, forming a " heater." The lower end of this street, where it joins Middle street, is devoted to business and contains some fine stores. In Free street block is the Portland School for the Deaf, supported in part by the city, for the instruction of deaf mutes, who are here taught to speak.

Falmouth Hotel,

All now before us down Middle street, is fresh and new. The fire of 1866 leveled everything here, and the new business structures which have arisen from the ruins far outshine the old in loftiness and architectural pretensions.

Some are of brick covered with mastic ; some of handsome pressed brick,

with Albert stone trimmings ; others of Connecticut freestone, ana some of granite, many having iron pillars, caps, sills, and ornamentations. The styles are various, and often ornate, the warerooms spacious and handsome. As far along here as the ej'e can- sweep, the street architecture is of a noble and attractive character, the blocks of warehouses being diversified with hotels and liank buildings. 72 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

The plainest block is Mussey's Row, high up on the wall of which a marble slab tells the story of the ravages of fire on this spot:

" Homestead of Benjamin Mussey, A. D 1749. Mussey's Row begun by liis son, John Mussey, in 1799, — completed in ISOl. Partially burnt, and rebuilt by him, in 1S15. Partially burnt, and rebuilt in 1852 by his son, John Mussey. Wholly burnt, and rebuilt in 18.50 by the same. AVlioUy burnt in the great fire of July 4th and .5th, 1866, and rebuilt by the same."

Here, at the corner of Union street, stands the Falmouth, our largest hotel, a magnificent structure, built by the Hon. John B. Brown, after the fire of 1866. The front is of Albert- stone, the side walls of pressed brick, with Albert-stone trimmings. Ii has a frontage on Middle street of one hundred and fifty-three feet, by one hundred and seventy-

four on Union street ; is six stories on Middle and seven on Union street, and contains two hundred and forty rooms, and ten large

stores. It is fully equipped with

all the conveniences of a modern first-class hotel, including an elevator and bathing-rooms on all the princi])al floors. Adjoining the Faluioulli. on the

f)^. corner of Plum street, is the builil- / ing formerly occupied by the First National Bank, A little farther down, on the opposite side, is the fine granite front of the Casco B:iiik Building, cccupying the site of the old " Sun Tavern," later known as ilie Casco House, whence, in days of yore, the stages were wont to depart for the country towns. This house, in tlie time of the Revolution, was the residence of Brigadier Jedediah Preble. His son. Commodore Edward Preble, after-

wards lived and died in it. It is a singular coincidence that this house in which the Commodore lived, and the one which he built and which was long occupied by his widow (the present Preble House), should both have been converted into hotels. Directly opposite the post-oflice, on the lower corner of Middle and Ex- change streets is the Fiust National Bank building, erected 1883-4, It is one of the most beautiful edifices in the city, is built of brick in modern styie, four stories in height, has a fine tower with a clock, and stand out con-Jpicu- ously as one approaches down Middle street. POIiTLAND AXD VICINITY. 73

The Maine Savings Bank has its banking-rooms on the corner of Plum

street, under the St. Julian Hotel, conducted on the European plan ; and a little farther along is the handsome Canal Bank building, of red freestone. The Maine

Maine Savings Bank with its $4,598,440.04 of deposits and bank examiner surplus of 8742, 015. .51, all of which belongs to 15,8'20 depositors.

The first business was done in tlie Preble Chapel ; after this on Free street ; then to rooms over store corner of Middle and Plum streets, and in

December, 1868, it located in the rear of the present rooms now occupied by the institution, and since November, 1878, has occupied those rooms alone, which are as perfect in arrangement for business and security as anj' in New England and all the various modern appliance for protection are employed, as well as a watchman and janitor. Since 1882, the whole building has become the propert3' of the bank from foreclosure of mortgage and at a price less than one half its original cost.

The officers of the bank are Samuel Rolfe, president ; Charles Fobes, vice president ; Alpheus G. Rogers, secretary and treasurer ; trustees, Samuel, Rolfe, Charles Fobes, Rufus Cushman, Daniel W. True, William G. Davis, Mark P. Emery, Eben Corey, and Alpheus G. Eogers. 74 roarLAXD axd vicixitv.

A few steps now bring us lo Exchange street, anciently called Fish, opened in 1724. From Middle to Fore street it is five hundred feet long,

and is lined with handsome business blocks from end to end, tlie last gap

left by the fire ofl866 — which laid low every building upon it — iiaving been filled by the erection of "Stanton Block" (named in honor of the famous War Secretary) in 1875, by the Hon. W. W. Tliom.as. On this street op])Osite

the entrance of Milk street, our Board of Tiade has its headquarters: an organization of our leading business men, which has done much lo ])romote the prosjierity

of the city. Here also is the

Merchant's E.\change, with its reading-room, whither our merchants resort for information, baigaining, and consultation. All who have an eye for fine architectural effects will admire

I lie fa9ade of the Merchants' liank on this street. That part of Exchange street which runs from Middle lo Congress street was laid out in 1793, and originally called Court street. On the northeast corner of INIiddle and Ex- change streets stands the Post- Oflice, an elegant building of Vermont marble, occupying a square by itself. Its pure white walls are in strong contrast lo the warmer colored

brick buildings about it, and it

looks a little cold in its elegance and ehasteness. Its cost c.ico Bank. ^.^g half a million dollars. The ground floor is occupied for the Post Oflice, and the second story for United

Slates court-rooms and ofllces. This is the third costly post-oflicc building that has occupied this site, — the other two having been destroyed by fire- The first post-oflice in Falmouth, under authority of the Continental Con- gress, was establislied in 177.5, by Benjamin Franklin, Postmaster General for the United Colonies. Deacon Saniuel Freeman was the first postmaster, his ciiiimiission bearing date October 5, 1775. ^Xc have had seventeen post- PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

masters, the present incumbent being Joshua S. Palmer. Some years ago there was obtained from the records at Washington the following list of the postmasters of Portland since the organization of the American postal service under Postmaster General Franklin; "Deacon Samuel Freeman, appointed

October 5, 1775; Thomas M. Prentiss, July 1, 1804; Joshua Wingate, Jr.,

February 20, 1805 ; James Wingate, August 9, 1805 ; Robert Ilsley, Junel, 1815 Mark Harris, Dr. ; 1823 ; Nathaniel Low, December 3, 1823 ; Nathaniel

Mitchell, Mitchell, April 9, 1829 ; Thomas Todd, December 8, 1834 ; Nathaniel

R. Lyman, May 4, 1841 ; Nathan L. September 11, 1839 ; Colonel Sylvanus

Woodbury, April 2, 1845 ; Joshua Dunn, May 5, 1849 ; Nathan L. Wood-

bury, April 1, 1853; Samuel Jordan, April 1, 1857; Major Andrew T. Dole,

April 8, 1861 ; Judge Woodbury Davis, December 9, 1865 ; Charles W. God-

dard, October 7, 1871." PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

During the first year after its establishment onlj' eight3--four letters were received at this post-office,— the mail running once a week. In 1880 this office paid the Government a profit of $108,380.71. Twenty- three clerks and ten carriers are einplo^-ed in the office, and fourteen route agents distribute the mails on the various lines of rail- waj' radiating from this point. Twenty-five mails now arrive and depart daily. Glancing up Exchani^e street we sec the fine block of the Port- land Savings Bank, and not far

above it, the Printer's Exchange, where are issued the Daily Argus (Democratic), the Daily Press (Republican), and several weekly newspapers, including Ziou's Ad- vocate and Christian ^Mirror. The Portland Savings Bank was chartered in 1852, and began busi-

ness in tlie Canal Bank building in Julj' of that j'ear, keeping open for business between the hours of eleven and one, Wednesdays and Saturdays. From this and various local causes the growth of the bank was slow, and in March 1859, when the Hon. Joseph C. Noyes was elected treasurer, its deposits amounted to but $161,825.62. A change was then made and the bank was kept open dailv in business hours. After the great fire of 1866 the bank was removed tempor- arily to Free street, and the building known as the Portland Savings Bank block begun. The bank was removed on completion of the building in Ma^-, 1867. On the morning of December 23, 1876, the upper part of the liuilding was destroyed bj' fire, but a temporar3' roof was immediately constructed, and the bank, afteran absence of a week, resumed business in its old quarters. In 1881 the rooms provided for the bank were found inadequate and the store 83 Exchange street was added. The rooms occupied by the bank are large, airy, and light, and much admired for their substantial elegance. The deposits ol the bank now amount to $6,173,242.64, and its market surplus was S9 14, 6'J4..')() at the official examination in March last. The present officers are : president,

Oliver Gerrish ; vice-president, George E. B. Jackson; treasurer, Edward A. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 77

Noyes ; trustees, Oliver Gerrish, George E. B. Jacksou, Weston F. Milliken, James P. Baxter, F. R. Barrett, Charles S. Fobes, and Edward A. No^'es.

The next store to tbe bank is occupied by the Portland Safe Deposit Company of which the Hon. L. D. M. Sweat is president and Mr. William Sweat manager. The rooms are connected by a fire-proof passage-way, and are never left alone, watchmen being always on hand outside of business hours. The vault is large, commodious, and of great strength; and a supplementary vault is provided for the storage of silver and bulky valuables. One-half of the second floor is occupied by the Portland Gas-Light Company for their offices. Edward H. Daveis is president and Samuel Rolfe treasurer. All of the building above the second floor has been fitted up for the use of the Masonic bodies of Portland. Corinthian Hall is the principal room and^a beautiful and commodious hall, and there the annual sessions of the different grand masonic bodies are held. Fire-proof stairways lead up from the street to the fourth floor of the building, and everj' precaution has been taken to prevent a repetition of the destructive fire of 1876. 7« PORTLAND AXD VICINITY.

Continuing down Middle street, below Exchange, we enter the region of ivholesale dry-goods, clothing, hardware, crockery, and druggists' warehouses, l)uilt since the fire of 1866, previous to which time trade had made but very few encroachments upon the old family estates in this direction. Here, on the left, was the old Plant Sawyer mansion, a fine residence seated in the midst of an extensive and well-kept garden. It was for some years the residence of the Hon. John M. Wood. Its site is now covered with business blocks, .lust opposite stood the unfin-

i s h c d m arble hotel c o m- menced by Mr. Wood, but never completed. On this site is the Sto- ver lUock, a tine business edifice, erected in 1881. Here we cross Pearl street, a wide avenue extending straight across

tiie city from

^^'atcr to water. This street was laid out and widened after

the great fire of 1866. Previous to that time the Middle to Fore Streets. cross streets in this vicinity were very narrow, this being the most ancient and dense part of the town. There were many narrow lanes here in early times, some of which bore odd names. Newbury street, for instance, was known as Turkey lane, and that part of Hampshire street which runs from IMiddle to Fore street was called Chub lane. There was Moose alley, now Chatham street, which is said to have owed its name to the fact that a moose was killed there in early times.

.Many of the houses standing here before the fire of 1866, dated from the middle of the last century. The oldest house in the city — built by Enoch PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

Moody, in 1740,— stood on the comer of Congress and Franklin streets. The oldest house now remaining in the city stands near the foot of Preble street. It is a one-story structure, buUt by Hugh McLeUan, in 17.55, on Congress, opposite Casco street. Mr. McLellan had the frame brought from Gorham, and built the house for his daughter, who married Joseph McLellan. It stood on that site for over one hundred years, and in 1866 was re-i moved to its present position, where it is stUl used as a dwelling-house. Owing to the fact that the city has so many times been swept by fire, we have no very ancient structures remaining. The old mansions in this part of the city, long the homes of famUes prominent in oui history, have all been swept away. Oui oldest Church, the First Parish have seen but flfty-sis years. All where we are now walking in the growth of the past twenty-two years, except a few ancient and dilapidated dwelling-houses at the corner of Middle and India streets, which still linger among the modern structures around them to remind us of the days that are gone. At the corner of Deer street we come upon the spot where, up to 1886, stood the old Second Parish Church, with its wide brick pavement in front ; a spot sacred to many from its association with the ministry of the sainted payson, who preached here for twenty years. The clock in the tower of this church was of great convenience to all doing business on Middle street, and after its destruction by the fire of 1866 many an eye was involuntarily cast in this direction to learn the time o' day. The site of the church is now^ covered by a block of cheap shops. In this ^^cinity we come upon traces of the great fire. This portion of Middle street, previous to 1866, was occupied by dwelling-houses, which have been in part replaced by stores, while spaces stUl remain vacant waiting for the demands of business, it being evident that the trade of the city must extend in this direction. At the junction of Hampshire street we reach the point where in early 80 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

times a stream'flowed 'across Middle street into Clay Cove, and was spanned here bj' a bridge. Tlie_ street has here been filled in and raised to nearly a uniform grade, but the ancient level may be seen by looking over the wall into the sunken grounds of the Thomas Browne estate, " where once the garden smiled." Clay Cove itself has also been filled up and built upon. It lay just below this point, and in early times was a marked feature in the topography of the town. Thirty or forty years ne

now is solid land covered with buildings. This brings us to India street, our most ancient thorough fare, having proba-

b 1 y been opened before 1G80, at which time it was Danforth Street.- Residence ef the late T. C. Honey. called Broad street. On the resettlement of the town, in 1724, it was laid out four rods wide under the name of High King street. It received its present name in 1837. It was long — in connection with Back, now Congress, street — the principal route out of town. On the corner of Middle street a meeting-house was buUt in 1721, which was occupied untQ the erection of the First Parish Church in 1740. A highly respectable old street was this previous to the fire of 1866. Its old family mansions with their terraced gardens in the rear and lofty elms in front, had an air of antiquity and staid respectabUity now lost to the street forever. It has never whoUy recovered from the ravages of the fire, and the desolate sites of some of the old mansions remain to remind us of the times that were. Passing down Iiulia street short a distance we come to Fore street, turning into which, on the left, few a minutes' walk brings us to the foot of Han- cock street, on the corner of which stands an old-fashioned mansion, "the PORTLAND AND VICINITY. HI old square wooden house, upon the edge of the sea," in which Henry W. Longfellow was bora, on the 27th day of February, 1807. Here his father,

Stephen Longfellow, resided before remo%nng into the house buUt by hi.< father-in-law, General Wadsworth, on Congress street. In those days the sea flowed up to the edge of the road, opposite the house, which commanded a fine view of the harbor. Within the recollection of our middle-aged citizens the beach opposite the house was the scene of the rite of baptism, administered on the\Sabbath, in the presence of a crowd of interested spectators.

Now the beach is covered, and the sea pushed farther out, by the made-land of the Grand Trunk Railway, whose trains run where once the tide ebbed and flowed. The house is

of three stories, and is

still in good repair. A short distann- eastward of the poet's birthplace, near the foot of Mountfort street, is the site of the house of George Cleeve, our first settler, who was attracted here in 1632 by the brook which supplied him with fresh water. Only a few years since, previous to the introduction of the Sebago water, Bethuel Sweetsir was selling the water of this ancient sjn'ing to our citizens, in time of drought. Returning now to India street we pass, on the left, the passenger depot and round-honse of the Grand Trunk Railway, occupying the site of Fort Loyal, whence, in 1690, our early settlers were carried captive, a weary way through the wilderness, to Montreal, with which city this very railroad now gives us daily connection. We are now at the foot of India street, and find ourselves on the extensive premises of the Grand Trunk Railway, whose wharves and ocean sheds afford magnificent accommodations for its great freight business between Canada and Europe. Here at these wharves lie the steamships, which fur- nish a means of communication between Portland and Liverpool for the half-year beginning about November 15th. These steamships are fine iron- built ships. In the past several lines have sent in their vessels here, and as

Portland is the best winter port on the north Atlantic coast for this trade, it 82 POBTLAND AND VICINITT.

has advantages not to be secured elsewhere. The amount of freight handled

here during the year, between the railroad and the steamers, is immense, and the scene presented during the winter season is a busy one, giving the specta- tor enlarged ideas of the commerce of our port. Just here, too, begins our wholesale business avenue. Commercial street, one hundred feet wide and a mile long, running across the whole wateifrout

of the city, with a railroad track in the middle of it, connecting the tlrand Trunk with the railroads running east and west, and with branches down to the wharves for the accommodation of shipping. Here was anciently a short street, accepted in 1724, and known as Thames street. It is now absorbed in

Fo-met Retldence of Hon Israel Washbuine. Jr., Sp'ing and Nail Streets.

Connnercial street, and no longer exists, ('(mimercial street contains many

fine blocks of wholesale warehouses, and by its near access to all the wiiarves. and its railroad accommodation, — bringing the products of the Great West to the doors of our merchants, — affords rare facilities for the reception and shipment of goods. In the busy season it presents an animated scene. Let us stroll along this business thoroughfare and note the princiiial db- jects of interest. Here, on the right, is a relic of other days, strangely out of keeping with the substantial warehouses among wliich it stands. It is the old family mansion built by the widow of Brigadier I'reble, in 178(i, on the site of her father's house which was burned in the destruction of the town by Mowatt, in 177i>. This was then a beautiful retired situation, looking out

uiHiii tlie li;irb(ii-. ;iiid llie house was surroiMnlecl bv a ufarden filled with fiiiit PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

and ornamental trees. Fifty years ago Lemuel Dyer lived in this house, and built ships in the rear of it. Opposite this house is Gait's Block, built of

stone, four stories in height, used as a storehouse and in the rear of it is the wharf of the same name, on which stands the new grain elevator built by the Grand Trunk Railway Company, in 1875, at a cost of $50,000. It has a length of 101 feet, a width of 53 feet, aud a total height, including the three-story cupola, of 107 feet. It is fitted with dock elevators for loading and unloading vessels, and with large steam shovels for unloading cars. It has forty-two bins for holding grain, each forty- six feet deep, and k ^_ the total capacity of the whole structure is 200,000 bushels. We come next to Franklin Wharf, where, on the west

side lie the Boston steamers, run by the Portland Steam Packet Company, formed in 1844, very successfully managed for many years by the late Captain J. B. Coyle> and now conducted by his son, who in- herits his father's

abOity as he does Custom House. his name. This company have two fine sea-going saloon steamers, the John Brooks, and the Tremout, which make daily trips between Boston and Portland the year round, starting from either end at 7 p. m. During the summer they also run on Sundays. On the west side of this wharf lie the steamers of the Maine Ste.amship Company, which maintains a semi-weekly line to New York, also under the management of J. B. Coyle.

At the upper end of the dock, on the side with the Boston steamers, is the landing of the Portland & Boothbay Steamboat Company, their steamer, Enterprise, making three trips a week during the summer to Squirrel Island, Boothbay. Heron Island, South Bristol, aud East Boothbay, and two of these 84 POHTLAND AND VICINITY.

trips are extended to Dainariscotta. The sail by this route affords a nIcw of some of the most picturesque scenery on the coast of Maine. From Burnham's Wharf, a small inner landing, just beyond Franklin AVharf, the steamer Greenwood leaves for the various landings on I'eak's Island, the small steamer Isis leaves for Diamond Cove and Diamond Island, and the steamer Phantom leaves for Great Chebeague, Littlejohn. and

Cousins Island, and for South Freeport. The next landing is known as the Custom House AVharf. From here the various steamers of the fleet of the Casco Bay Steamboat Company make frequent excursions to the nearer islands. The steamers of the Ilarpswell Steamboat Company also staxt from this wharf, and they ply to the more remote islands, and to the peninsula of Harpswell, threading their way through the various sounds and among the islands for twentj^ mUes, and affording views of verj' beautiful scenery. From this wharf the ferry boat to South Portland also starts. A short distance

bej'ond, on Long AVharf, is the People's Ferry to South Portland. Across Commercial street from Custom House AVharf is the Custom House, a handsome granite structure, which fronts upon both Commercial and Fore

streets. Completed in 1872, at a cost of §48.5,000, this is one of the most substantial, convenient, and elegant buildings in the whole country. The interior is richly finished, and affords ample accommodation for the transaction of the business of the customs. The first officer connected with the collection of duties at this port was Closes Pearson, who was ap])ointed in 1730. The present U. S. Collector of the District is the Hon. Sanmel J. Anderson. A large business is transacted here, the average annual amount of duties collected for some years past being about 8.>00,000. In addition to the regular imports and exports, the railroad connection with Canada luings a large transit business, so that while, in amount of duties upon consumption and warehouse entries, Portland is the seventh or eigth port in the United States, in amount of duties assessed upon all goods passing through the

Custom House, it is the third or fourth. AVe are now in the center of the wholesale trade in NVest India goods, flour and grain, to which, among others, the Thomas Block of substantial warehouses gives ample accommodation. Here, too, are the coal-yards, and the fish-markets, where a large wholeside business in fresh fish is transacted.

Looking eastward from the corner of Cross street, a busy scene is presented to the eye. Long lines of freight cars stand in the middle of the street, from which barrels of flour are rolled on skids into the doors of the ware-

houses ; lumpers and 'longshoremen are discharging corn from other cars in baskets on their shoulders ; heavy teams are transporting goods to the wharves, for shipment by packet or steamer to eastern ports ; crowds of pleasure-seekers are crossing the street to reach the island steamers, while groups of merchants, shipmasters, sailors, and day-laborers diversify the scene. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 85

Passing on, we enter the region of the lumber trade, — an important interest, — with wharves covered with the products of niQls in the interior, brought down by rail for shipment. Here the street is reduced to a shelf of land by the high bank of York street, walled up under which runs the trains of the Boston and Maine Railroad. Formerly this road bad its station in this region on the right-hand side, and before the building of the present Union station, the Boston and Maine, the Portland and Ogdensburg, and the Maine Central were all accommodated in the station on the left hand. The old station of the Boston and Maine is now used only for freight, and the other station is used by that road only for trains on its West- ern division, in connection with local travel, and to make connections with the steamers from the Pro\'inces and up the coast. This station is at the head of

Railroad Wharf where lie the steamers of the International Steamship Com- pany, which during the excursion season make tri-weekly trips between Bos-

ton, via Portland, to Eastport, and St. John ; at Eastport connections are

made for St. Andrews, and Calais ; at St. Johns for Digby and Annapolis, also with the city of Fredericton, on the St. John, with Halifax, N. S., Charlottetown, P. E. I., and all parts of the maritime Provinces. The steamers running to Mt. Desert and Machias also land at the same wharf. These latter steamers, during the summer, make the following trips to the great sea-side resort, Alt. Desert, connecting witli railroads running to and from Portland : the steamer City of Richmond leaves Railroad Wharf every

Tuesday and Friday night, at 1 1 p. m., or on arrival of trains from the West for Machiasport. Some New Features of the City.

THE UNION STATION,

Tlae new Union Station at the foot of liiamhall's Hill, where Congress street crosses the railroad tracks was built this present year. It is an artistic looking and beautiful structure, built of North Conway granite from the quarry at the lower end of Rattlesnake Mountain, and the stone has a lovely pink tinge, and takes a fine polish. The interior is finished to harmonize with the outside, in light colored hard woods. The reception rooms and offices are very spacious and airy, and the whole building is luxmiously furnished. The station belongs to a corporation, the Portland Union Railway Station Company, organized February 24, 1887, and its facilities aie made use of by the Boston & Maine, the IVIaine Central, and the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroads, each road paying a rental. To come into so picturesque and lovely an edifice after a journej' along the lovely and romantic line of the Portland & Ogdensburg seems a peculiarly happy idea. It is an anival that perfectly harmonizes with the memory of the Crawford Notch and the Saco intervales, all the grand mountain ranges, the woods and fields and silver streams.

On the north side of the station is an iron car house six hundred feet long, capable of accommodating many trains at once. From all parts of the city the station is reached by the horse cars. The dining-room in the Union Station is the most elegantly appointed place of the kind in New England, and is not surpassed anywhere in the country. It is at the southwest end of the structure, occupies the whole width of the buUding, being therebj' very well lighted, and is a lofty and commo. dious apartment with a seating capacity at the tables for nearly two hundred persons. The restaurant is conducted by IMr. (^leo. K. AVoodbury & Son, and appointments and service are equal to those of any hotel in the country, so much so that many words of commendation have been uttered by discerning travelers who, passing through here to the mountains, the lakes, or the shores, find occasion to enjoy Mr. Woodbury's hospitality. 'JVained and tried cooka and waiters of experience in all the great hotels in the cdnntry lonstitute the present working force. PORTLAND A2fD VICINITY.

THE PORTLAND CLUB AND ITS NEW HOUSE.

The Portland Club is a compaiitivel}- new organization among the well known and flourishing institutions of the cit}-. It is a semi-political organization, and was organized June 1, 1886, thus antedating bj- some months the general movement among the republicans of the country for the organization of permanent clubs. Indeed that movement to some extent received its impetus from the Portland Club. Earlj- in the fall of 1886 the club gave a dinner to one of its members, the Hon. Joseph R. Bodwell, then Governor-elect, at which among others of its members, the Hon. James G. Blaine, Senator Eugene Hale, and Representative Thomas B. Reed, spoke. This gathering owing

Summer Headquarters of the Portland Club at Great Diamond Island, largel3- to the presence of Mr. Blaine attracted the attention of the country and man}' clubs were immediatelj' organized.

Although political in its purposes the social feature of the club predomi- nates. Its membership is strictly limited to republicans, but thoseof any or no political faith have been its guests and enjoyed its hospitality. Its main object is to promote the harmony and .strength of the republican party. It embraces in its membership city republicans in every walk in life, and also has a numerous nou-resident membership who make its rooms their headquarters when visiting the city.

The leading object is to afford facilities to extend courtesies to promiuLMit visitors to the city and opportunities to the citizens of Portland to make the acquaintance of such. A rule of the club excludes intoxicating liquors and all games for money from the premises. The headquarters of the club in thB ;

88 POUTLASD AND VICIMTY. citv are at 598^ Congress street, where they have large conveniently arranged and finely appointed rooms, but the pride of the club is its Country Club house, on Great Diamond Island, fifteen minutes sail from Portland. The building occupies the highest portion of the island, near the "Farmer's Landing." It is original in design, being low and picturesque, with a tower rising in the centre. Spacious piazzas encircle it on three sides. The view from piazzas and tower is magnificent in all directions. Northward in the distance is the mainland, the shores of Deering, Falmouth Foreside, Cumberland and Yar- mouth, while nearer at hand is Mackey's Island and at our feet the broad acres of the old island farm ; eastward is the ocean seen through Hussey's Sound, with Long and Clapboard islands in the foreground ; southward, and directlj' across the channel is Peak's Island with its varied scenery, summer homes,

and the constant succession of steamers plying to its wharves ; westward lies

Cusliing's Island, Little Diamond, Fort Gorges, Fort Scammell. and a little beyond, Fort Preble and Cape Elizabeth. This whole panorama, including the city of Portland is a scene unsurpassed anywhere.

The club house on the island is a favorite resort of the members and alfordsconvenient opportunities for them to entertain their families and guests. The permanent officers of the club are: president, Fred N. Dow; vice- presidents, Stephen K. Small, Josiah H. Drummond, Francis Fessenden,

AN'eston F. Milliken, and Goo. P. Wescott ; secretary, J. Henry Crockett treasurer, Henry S. Osgood. IMPROVEMENTS IN PORTLAND HARBOR. Back Hay. — Tlie improvement of the Back Bay has long been discussed

in the business circles of Portland, and since the first definite action was taken on this subject by the City Council two years ago, considerable progress

has been made in constructing tlie proposed ship channel, and filling in the

flats at the head of the cove. This work is in charge of Lieut. Col. Jared A. Smith, U. S. Corjis of Engineers in charge of the river and harbor improvements of Maine and New Hampshire. Col. Smith submitted a plan of the

proposed work to Congress in the winter of 1886 ; the first appropriation

for it was made August 5, 1886, but active work upon it did not commence until a 3ear later in August, 1887.

The general plan of the work is to excavate a ship channel through the Back Bay, over a mile long, to be 300 feet wide at the bottom, 325 feet wide at the top, with a mean depth at low water of twelve feet and a depth at

iiverage high water of twent3'-one feet. When this work is completed it will add half a mile in length to the wiiarfage at the front and ends of the new

ship channel. At Deering over si.x hundred feet of new wharf will be built upon the land fronting the Portland Stone AVare Company's extensive pottery,

which will give them and all other manufacturers and dealers in that section great advantages and Ijenefits in receiving their supplies and the shipment of tlieir goods to market, and making a great saving in the cost of Iransporlation PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 89 of coal, bricks, lumber, pottery cla^y, building materials, and other merchandise, all of which must now be hauled across the city at the additional cost of cartage to all consumers in that section. Between the proposed new city highwaj' known as the " Marginal Way," now in process of construction across the cove, and the southwest reach of the ship channel, quite a large section of these flats now covered by tide water, is mostly under the control of the Portland and Rochester Railroad Com- pany which IS now expending large sums in filling in these waier-lots, which will give this company, when completed, an area of new made land about half a mile long, bj- an eighth of a mile wide, available for railroad or other business purposes. Adjoining this, on the easterlj' side, lies another large area so situated that it also must be soon filled up. With the extending shipping and railroad enterprises of Portland, a great enlargement of its future commerce should result from these harbor improvements, especially if they could be facilitated by more liberal and frequent government appropri- ations. Fore River. — Great improvements are likewise proposed for increasing the capacity of the main harbor, and this work, which is also under the charge of Col. Smith, will be done as soon as the funds for the purpose can be secured from the general government. It is proposed to make a ship channel 500 feet wide by twentj'-nine feet deep extending from the deep water of the anchorage to the front of the wharves which are used for the trans-atlantic steamers, on a due east and west line. The owners of the wharves will dredge their docks to a depth sufficient for the largest ocean steamers enabling vessels drawing twenty-seven feet of water to steam directly to the wharf at anj' stage of the tide, thus avoiding the present labor and delay imposed upon all large vessels by the lack of depth of water. With the Grand Trunk Railway trains running direct to the wharves of both the harbor and the Back Bay, and the ocean steamers landing their cargoes here in the winter, Portland will be much belter prepared, with these improvements completed, for the greatly enlarged commerce that is expected to follow.

The Portland Board of Trade Journal is authority for the statement that it is proposed to erect here the largest car works in America, woodworking

shops 1000 feet long by 105 feet wide ; machine and blacksmith shops, 825 feet feet 325 by 96 feet, repair shops, 500 by 96 feet ; a by 105 ; paint shops, foundry, 160 by 84 feet ; and in addition to the present rolling mill an immense car wheel and axle works will all be needed, and will probabl3' be erected in Portland within two j'ears of the time that the proper terminus is prepared here to receive the great business of the Canadian Pacific Railway and connections of the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad, which it is expected will bring the great ocean steamships to this port. 90 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

SOLDIEBS' AND SALLOKS' MONUICENT.

The Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument to be erected in Market square will occupy a lot forty feet square, sodded outside of the pedestal, which will he of red Jonesboro granite, square in form and twenty-five feet high, one panel

will have a bas-rcUtf viiiXx three figures, cavalry, infantry, and artillery, syra. bolizing the army, the opposite panel a bas-relief with officer, marine and seaman to represent the navy, both these reliefs being of bronze with a background of flags, arms, and military emblems. The other two panels will bear inscriptions to the memory of those for whom it is erected. A heroic bronze figure symbolizing the American Republic, fifteen feet in height, and the largest bronze statute but one in the country, will be the crowning figure of the monument which will be fortj'-five feet in height, and when it is erected it is proposed to change the name of its location from Market square to "Monu- ment Place."

This monument is erected by the " Portland Soldiers' and Sailors' Monu- men Association," at a cost of about $30,000 which sura has been raised by voluntary contributions. Franklin Simmons, the distinguished sculptor of

Maine, is the designer of the monument, and Richard M. Hunt, architect, of New York, of the pedestal, and the designs are so nearly completed that the work will soon be contracted for and commenced. The officers of the Monu-

(". ment Association are : General John Marshall Brown, president; Dr. S. Gordon, Woodbur}- S. Dana, vice-presidents; Charles W. Roberts, secretar}-.

Committee on Design : Harry B. Brown, Chairman, Francis H. Fassett, H. W. Richardson. THE LONGFELLOW MONUMENT.

The monument to be erected to the memory of the poet Longfellow by the Longfellow Monument Association of his native city, it is now thought will be completed and dedicated with appropriate ceremonies in September.

The site chosen for it is on Congress square, at the head of State street, an excellent location. The pedestal of grarjite will be ten feet in height, sur mounted by a bronze statue of the poet, represented as seated, the size of the figure if standing, being about ten feet, making the entire monument twenty feet in height. The statue was designed by Franklin Simmons, the celebrated

Maine sculptor, was modelled in Rome, and cast in bronze at Berlin, and is pronounced a very artistic and satisfactory work, and will be a beautiful and honorable adornment of the city. The Hon. Charles F. Libbj- of Portland, is the president of the Jlonument Association, and the committee of design, having charge of the construction, location, and erection of the monument is comprised of the following named prominent citizens : Judge J. W. Symonds, chairman, Messrs. Jas. P. Baxter, F. H. Fassett, H. B. Brown, and K. H.

Elwell. The estimated cost of the monument is about $10,000. NOTES ON THE BUSINESS OF PORTLAND.

A unique and special line of machinery is manufactured by Mr. R. O. Conant at 229 Commercial street, Portland. In a commodious and well adapted machine shop situated in the rear of the store of Conant, Patrick & Company, of which concern Mr. Conant is the principal partner, he makes by means of machinery adapted to the purpose, two machines for the use of can- ners and packers. These pieces of mechanism are known respectively as the Stickney can filler, and the Conant reversible sieve and sifter. In practice they work with economy, are easily kept clean, will handle as much corn as any similar machine, and will save their cost on these accounts in a short time. These machines are now in use in many prominent packing and canning establishments throughout the country, and v?herever a trial has been made of them the result has been that they have been introduced to the exclusion of the machines previously in use. The facilities for their manufacture in Mi-. Conant's establishment are excellent, as his working machinery has been constructed with a view to this peculiar manufacture. Eight or ten men are constantly employed, and the demand for the machines is continually on the increase. Besides manufacturing these two machines, Mr. Conant deals in a line of machinery that is allied in character to his own productions. He is agent for Sprague's patent continuous-feed green corn cutting machines, a very effective device for the end in view ; for Cox's patent capping machine,

which puts the covers on packers' cans ; for Burt's patent can wiping machine, which wipes the tops of cans before capping and after being filled ; and for the Burt burner, using kerosene oil, for soldering purposes. He is also

agent for the Cuskley bath i oom heater ; for J. W. Penney & Sons' steam engines, of small horse-power, used in canning factories, etc.; and for Hohn- mann & Maurer's standard bath thermoraetric steam gauges, and standard spring steam and ammonia gauges. A corn husking maching has always been a desideratum with packers, and as Portland is the centre of the corn canning business in the country the construction of such a machine has long been an object with local mechan-

ics. At last after much study and experiment, Mr. Perley D. Cummings, who

is with Mr. Conant in his machine shop, constructed a corn husking machine, — the only one that successfully accomplishes the result sought for. Vwitch-

ell, Champlin & Company have had one of these machines in constant use since they started into business three years ago, and it has worked excel-

lently. The machine is patented, and will be manufactured at Mr. Conant's shop by a corporation, the Maine Corn Husking Machine Company, of which Mr. Conant is the principal stockholder. PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

Exchange Street in Portland is the principal business thoroughfare running across the city, and is consequently easily accessible from all points.

One of the best appointed stores on the sti'eet is that of Woodward & Sum- ner, at No. l'2b, dealers in j)iano-f<>rtes and organs. They have the exclusive agency for the State of Maine for the Steinway and Ilardman piano- fortes, and for the Smith-American organs. The Steinway piano has not only a national, but an international reputation. Since Steinway and Son began the manufacture of these instruments they have produced more than

0(^,000 of them, all of which liave given perfect satisfaction to the purchasers. Tlieir woi'ks at Astoria, Long Island, are conceded to be the most ])erfectly arranged and at the same time the most extensive establishment of the kind in the world. They liave been awarded medals almost without number at various national and international exhibitions, at the Universal Exposition in Paris in 1867 being awarded thegi-and gold medal of honor for the greatest excellence in the three styles, square, upright, and grand. The Hard- man piano, which this firm also carries, has been demonstrated to be a first- class instrument, and it takes over three thousand per year to supply the constantly increasing demand. They make a specialty of u])right and small grand pianos, and in these styles of instrument the Ilardman is unsurpassed. The Smith-American organs, of which Woodward & Sumner have also the exclusive agency, are second to no instrument of their class in the country, and give excellent satisfaction in all cases.

The largest newspnj'er dealer in the city of Portland is Mr. J. W.

Peterson, No. 2 Exchange Street. He is agent for the Boston Sunday and Daily PleraM and Globe, and handles the entire edition of the Portland Sun- day Teletjram. Every Sunday morning he sends out from his establishment 7,000 Sunday ])a))ers, wholesaleing tliem to dealers and em})loying 150 boys to sell the papers and to convey them to other dealers. Besides his general newsjjaper business Mr. Peterson carries on a large wholesale business in novels and jjeriodicals. He has on sale all the leading magazines and newspapers in the country, and also carries in stock constantly over oO.OOO of the various libraries of popular novels, besides a full assortment of other books. At his Exchange Street store Mr. Peterson occupies three floors. He has also a fine large store at Old Orchard Beach, op])osite the railroad depot.

On the line of the horse-cars and convenient, therefore, for many of the residents of the city and vicinity, is the general grocery store of A. S.

Jenness, 35 Portland Street, where at all times can be found a full assortment of tlie best butter, eggs, cheese, teas, coffees, spices, and all sorts of provisions and groceries. POHTLAXD AND VICINIVY. 93

The firm of John W. Perkins & Company are tlie largest wholesale drug, gists in the city of Port- land. Their establishment occupies the whole of a large three-story brick building at 94 ami 96 Commercial Street ami 2 and 4 Custom House Wharf. Here they manufacture many standard pliarmaceutical prepara- tions, including elixirs, fluid extracts, syrups, etc., Co. |Co and thej' carry heavy lines of patent medicines and proprietary articles, druggists' sundries, toilet articles, perfumery, glassware, shop furniture, druggists' implements, and surgical appliances, and also deal in paints, colors, dye stuffs, varnishes, artists' and painters' materials, burning and lubricating oils, and wool. From twenty to twenty-five men are constantly eni])loyed in the office or selling goods. The business was established in 1853 by John W. Perkins and L. A. Titcomb. In about a year, however, Mr. Titcomb withdrew. Various changes were made in the firm from timeto time, Mr. Perkins always continuing at the head. The present members are John W. Perkins, Benjamin A. Perkins, J. Henry Crockett, and William S. Kyle.

The musical tastes of a community are a good index of its refinement

and culture. In no city of equal magnitude is this more evident than in

Portland, as is shown by the existence of such an establishment as that of Mr. Ira C. Stockbridge, at 124 Exchange Street. Mr. Stockbridge has been established in the music business since 1871. He has a fine store and basement, each 116 feet long and 25 feet in width, well stocked with a good assortment of musical instruments and merchandise, including sheet music and books, racks, folios, rolls, brass instruments, harmonicas, organettes,

strings, and trimmings of all kinds, and he also has instruments to let. Three very capable and thoroughly conversant clerks, who are familiar with all the new and popular publications of the daj-, are constantly employed.

Mr. Stockbridge is a native of South Freeport, Me., and popularly known in this community, being manager and proprietor of the Stockbridge Course of Entertainments. ;

94 POHrLA.\D AND VICINITY.

To continue in a particular line of industry for twenty-five years, and to have the results through that period endure and give satisfaction, is a good evidence of the substantial cliaracter of a man's work. Such has been

the case in regard to Elias Hersey, whose office is at No. 22 Market Square, Portland, and who carries on the business of a roofer. The special form of

Mr. Hersey's work is felt composition and gravel rooting. Many of the largest and finest buildings in the city were roofed by him, among them being the Falmouth House, the First National Bunk building, the Lancaster building, the Caseo Bank, the Motley, the Kimball, the Jose, the Whitney blocks, and so many others that a list of them here would be too lengthy. Besides his work in the city, Mr. Ilersey has performed a large amount of very satisfactory work chiefly on mills and factories, throughout the State of Maine. A few of these mentioned will show the extent and character of

Mr. Hersey's operations : In the village of Cumberland Mills — the Cumber-

land and Presumpscot mills, with a roof area of 320,000 square feet ; in Bid- deford — the Saco Water Power Machine Shop, 80,000 feet, and the Pepper-

ell and Laconia mills, 300,000 feet ; in Saco — the York Mills, 150,000 feet

in Lewiston — the Androscogan Mills, 90.000 feet ; the liates Manufacturing Company, 100,000 feet; the Lewiston Bleachery, 95,000 feet; the Conti-

nental ]Mills, 40,000 feet ; Westbrook Manufacturing Company, 50,000 feet

P'orest Pa])er Company, Yarmoulhsville, 40,000 feet ; the Maine Central railroad work-shops at Waterville, 110,000 square feet; the St. Croix Mills, St.

Stephens, N. B., 100,000 feet. This list might be e.vtended indefinitely, but space forbids. Some of these roofs have been on for twenty years, and are apparently now in most excellent condition.

The benefits of natural asphalt for roofing have only been appreciated

for a very few years. It is non-inflamable, is impervious to water, practically indestructible, has great tenacity and pliability, and, in fact, has all the qualities necessary for a roofing material. In the State of Maine but few roofs

of this character have been ])ut on until recenti}'. As the advantages are seen,

however, the demand is constantly increasing. The firm of Tibbetts & Allen, 148 Commercial Street, make a specialty of this business. They are agents for Warren's natural asphalt roofing material, and also for two and three-

ply ready roofing for roofs too flat for shingles.

Probably no department of the every-day work in a city is more necessary than the laundries, and in that line, as in many others now-a-days,

the labor is performed by much more effective methods than formerly ])re- vailed, avoiding delays and poor results. The Hamlin Laun

Street in this city, F. 11. Hamlin, proprietor, exemjilifies in the best manner the fine methods, the quick and good work of a first class cstablishnu-nt. The work done here always gives uniform and general satisfaction. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 95

The largest clay works in New England or the Middle States, are those of the Portland Stone Ware Company, Winslow & Company proprietors. They manufacture the famous Portland red body salt glazed sewer and drain pipe, in all sizes, from 2 to 24 inches inclusive, and have all the most improved machinery, including two very large steam presses with a monthly out- put of upward of one hundred thousand feet. The works have also a dajiy

Portland Stone Ware Company's Works.

out-put of ten thousand fire brick, of many different shapes and patterns, and make red laud tile for farmers' use, garden vases, chemical ware, and a variety of clay )a;ood8. These works are located at Portland, Me., and have railroad tracks running into their yard, as well as good water communication. The

pipe is the strongest in the market, as was shown bj' recent tests made by eminent engineers in Boston. Any one who contemplates using pipe should send for their illustrated catalogue, showing tests and testimonials. The

Boston office is located at 42 Oliver Street, where a good stock of all goods manufactured by the company is constantly kept on hand.

If you want to have a photograph taken in the city of Portland, a good

place to go is to the rooms of C. H. Cummings, 12 Market Square, where you will always obtain good work at reasonable prices. Views of any description are made to order at any time. Mr. Cummings also makes a specialty of copying and enlarging in crayon, ink, or water colors. His prices for cabinet photographs per dozen are from $2.50 to $3.00. y6 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

In January, 1885, the first trust company- in Maine opened its doors for business. Under a special cliarter the Portland Trust Company was organized for the purpose of doing a banking business, in addition to acting as agent and trustee for corporations, and executing legal trusts. It re- is ceives deposits, upon which interest paid, and loans money ; it buys and sells bonds, and has constantly on hand a choice line of securities, suitable for savings banks, trust funds, and i)rivate investors. The aim of the management has been safety and security, and this conservative course ha.s built ui> a large and increasing business. Every facility consistent with pru- dent banking is extended to its customers, and its success has been so marked that many other companies have been recently incorporated in the state. It is gratifying to know that its stockholders liave realized even more than they anticipated, having received regular dividends, and accum- ulated a surplus of twenty per cent in three years. No loses have been suf- fei-ed, and the stock is practically out of the market. That the present policy of the company will be pursued, and its past success exceeded in the future, the following list of officers and trustees bears witness: President,

H. J. Libby; Vice-President, Wm. G. Davis; Secretary, H. Butler ; Trus- tees, Harrison J. Libby, William G. Davis, Mark P. Emery, Philip Henry Brown, Ch.irles F. Libby, William W. Brown, Fred N. Dow, R. M. Rich- ardson, Henry S. Osgood, James P. Baxter, all of Portland ; Frederick

Robie, Gorhani ; Samuel A. Holbrook, Freeport ; R. B. Shepherd, Skow-

hegan ; Andrew P. Wiswell, Ellswoitli ; George C. Wing, Auburn.

In ISCfi, ufti r the big tire, a sewer ])ipe works was started in a small way by Mr. J. W. Stockwell, who came from Northampton, Mass. At that time the manufacture was conducted in a very primitive way. In 1870, Mr. Stockwell's experiments in macliiner3- began to result in improved methods aud products, steam was introduced to run the niachinerj% and since thai time trade, witli better goods, has very much increased. In 1883 the business was organized into a corporation having some of our best known business men as stockholders, under the name of the Portland Cement, Pipe and Stone Company. As one of the specialties the concern now manufacture as well as deal in articles both ornamental and useful. They also make a specialty of a sewer pipe which by late improvements is rendered strictly acid ami water-jiroof, in tact indestruclil.le.

South Portland, formerly FeiT^' Village, across the harbor from Portland is growing up to be an important suburb. Two steam ferries now give speeds- communication with the city. PORTLAXI) AND VICINITY. 97

One of the best known firms in their line of business in the country is Cliast- & Son, mechanical and hydraulic engineers and niachinerv manufacturers, 236 Federal Street, Portland. They make a specialty of the manufacture of turbine water wheels of saw mills, and of sli ingle machines, and they are ]ire- ]iared to su[j)ily manufacturers with machinery for every purpose, with the exception of the cotton manufacture. In the past they liave been largely engaged in the fitting up of mills with machinery and are now better prepared than ever before to do this work, in fact, makingjit at present one of the most prominent features of their business. Steam and water-power machinery of all the approved models now in the market are erected and put in working order quickly and satisfactorily, and steam engines and boilers of every description, portable or stationary, are furnished to order at any time and every detail attended to. Mr. Jefferson Chase, the senior member of the firm, started business in Portland in 1879. Previous to that time he had been traveling for the Chase Turbine Manufacturing Company, making sales of machinery for the equipment of new mills. The liusiness in this vicinity increased so rapidly that he

found it necessary to open his present establishment at the time mentioned. The firm are stockholders in the Chase Turbine Manufacturing Company, whose extensive works are located at Orange, Mass., and Mr. Jefferson Chase is a director in the company. Besides the turbine wheels and saw mill, thataie their chief manufacture, they make shafting gears, steam engines, and machinery of all kinds for lumber, paper, wood-pulp, woolen and grist mills, and supply belting, saws, gummers, mill stones, and all furnishings. 98 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

A city is built up by the enterprise of its inhabitants. The old saying th:it llie man who makes two blades of grass grow where one grew before is a public benefactor, althougii somewhat hackneyed as a statement is still so true that like many other similar trite sayings it is often worth remembering Certainly a man who builds up a large business from small beginnings, and who turns his ca])ilal into that business, is an important factor in the life of a city, and the continued ])ros|>erity of the community is in proportion to the number of sucli men. Tliey are indeed the vital principle, the life of the industrial organism. A man to whom these remarks apply fittingly is Mr. Thomas P. Deals, manufacturer of woven wire mattresses, spiral \r spring beds, cot beds, French and- cottage chamber sets, cane and wood seat chairs, etc. At 85 and ^7 Market Street, Mr. Beals has his |iiincipal factory, storerooms, and otlice, occujjying the three upper floors of a large four-story brick liuilding, 110 X 60 feet, and having

:i fine office and salesroom on the

street floor. Mr. Beals' specialty is

the spring beds, all of which are manufactured on the premises. They are of several kinds. Mr. Jjcals was one of the original manufacturers of spiral spring beds in tlie country, and now turns out

I \ ery year 10,000 beds, the springs lieing all coiled and set in this es- tMblishment. Tlie woven wire mat- trusses are made in the building, Mr. Beals having the only machines in the state that perform the work. Kacli machine being located at the end of a table, coils the wire and inlei-nieshes it, makini' a thoroughly woven and strong structure. From a comparatively crude piece of mechanism these machines were developed by Mr. Beals, the new features being his own invention. Unlike most similar machines this weaves two strands at once. The production of the woven wire beds are over 10,000 a year and they are shii)ped to all parts of the country. Mr. Beals occupies a large portion of the space in his building in putting together pine chamber sets, chairs and tables, and employs one of the best artists in this line in the country to decorate them, the landscape and marine views on the he.idboards of the sets being of a very superior order of workmanship. At the liead of the Berlin Mills Wharf on Commercial Street, Mr. Beals PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 99 has another establishment consisting of a two-story wooden building, 60 x 30, in which he finishes all kinds of hard-wood chamber sets. A spur track leads alongside of the building so that the material can be passed directly from the cars into the building, and the finished goods reshipped in the same manner. From this building mattresses are also wholesaled. This large business has been developed from very small beginnings. At the close of the war in 1867, Mr. Beals started with very small capital in the

manufacture of painted sets. In 1870 he began to make spring beds. , The business steadily increased and this increase still continues, the demand the present year being much larger than last year.

At the corner of Pearl and Fore streets, Nos. 12, 14, and 16 Pearl, and 333 and 335 Fore street is the flour, grain, and ha3- store of John J. Lappin & Companj' who carry on the largest retail business in the city. The business was started in 1874 In a small store on the corner of York and Danforth streets not so large as their office in their present commodious building, which was erected by the flrra in 1879, since which time thej- have done a constantly' increasing business. This firm enjoys a very large trade in the winter season in the supplying of hay and feed for cattle that are shipped to England on several lines of English steamers that make this cilj' their winter port. The Capisic Pond Mills, Deering, which have the highest reputation for first-class milling is run by this firm.

One of the most attractive and complete establishments in Portland is the Palmer Shoe Store, established more than twentj' years ago bj' M. G. Palmer, Esq. It has ever since taken the lead in keeping the best quality and finest grade of boots and shoes in the largest range of sizes. This store has succeeded in building up the largest business in its time of any store east of Boston, while for style of finish, for convoiiience in its appointments, and for systematic arrangements, it is a model that has been extensivel3- copied hy some of the best stores in the United States and the Provinces, and probably no store in the Union is more widelj' known. An important part of their trade is in sending single pairs \>y express or mail all over the United States. Owing to press of other business, Mr. Palmer has sold his interest in this business to Messrs. Nelson & Sargent, two young men qualified to continue the successful business so long carried on by Mr. Palmer. Mr. Nelson has been connected with this store for the past sixteen years, and for some years has been chief clerk. Mr. .Sargent is well known as a successful business man. During the short time they have been in possession they have proved the}' are not only able to keep up the well earned reputation, but have increased its business and enlarged its facilities very much to the satisfaction and convenience of its constantly increasing patrons. Apart from the grade of their goods which in themselves are a guarantee to the customer, it is a 100 POBTLAyD AND VICIXITT.

feature of this store, scriipiiloiislj- observed, that all goods are warranted free from defects in quality^ and workmanship. They issue a very handsomely illustrated catalogue free, on application to the Palmer Shoe Store, 541 Con- gress street, Portland, Me.

A style of mu.sical instruments met with in all sec- tions of the country is the New England organ,

which is manufactured by the company of that nai'.K' in their large five-story brick factory on Warehaiii Street, Boston. In that establishment 125 hands an- constantly emi)loyed, and the demand for the instruments is so great that the orders are always ahead of the supply to a large extent. In various cities throughout the country salesrooms for the sale of these instruments have been established, and the branch in the city of Portland, at No. ~^.!''-eTt^^ 16 Free Street, is one of the best of these, and controls the trade in the entire State of Maine. Here a full stock of organs is always on hand of all the styles manufactured, and besides their own instruments the concern handles the celebrated Sohmer and Bradbury- ])ian

In all l:irge cities the necessity of strong and fire-proof roofs is plainly apparent, and these qualities are secured in no better way than by the use of slateortin for the coverings of buildings. The firm of M. B. Bourne «& Son, 33 Tem])le Street, carry on an extensive business as slate and tin roofers. The work they have done has been on some of the largest and most important buildings in the city. They slated the new Union Depot, the High School, the Shailer, the Hutlor, and the Carroll Street schools, the city building, and the Brown Memorial building. M. B. Bourne started business thirty years ago. He died in 187G. His son, who had been a jiartner, has since then carried on the business under the old name. As is evidenced from the character of the buildings they have roofed, the firm's work gives perfect satisfaction. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 101

The standing of a business house is largely- determined by the j-ears it has endured and retained the patronage of the public. This is more especiall}- true in the case of a particular business, if it is one that has to do the gratification of the taste or sentiment of the community. One of the best known and the oldest established dealer in first class pianos and organs in Portland is Samuel Thurs- ton, at No. 12 Free street, or as commonly known No. 3 Free street block. Here Mr. Thurston has a commodious, well lighted ware room, fully stocked with the excellent line of instruments he deals in. Mr. Thurston is agent for Wm. Knabe & Company's piano-fortes, for the Burdett, and the Story & Clark organs and for the Behr Brothers & Company's piano-fortes. The Knabe pianos are too well and favorably known to require an^' extended mention here. At the Centennial exhibition in 1876, the United States Centennial commission and the judges of award unanimously decreed the diploma of honor and the medal of merit, for the concert grand, parlor grand, square and upright pianos to the manufacturers, and numerous musi- cians of the first-class have both before and since then, given their testimony to the superior excellence of these instruments. The Burdett Organs have become very popular because of some peculiar excellencies they possess. The " Sackbut Style," a new make, has a perfectly charming tone quality and is on that account in great demand. For acquiring a choir style this instrument is one of the best, and specially adapted for use in churches or choirs, being one of the finest choral instruments in use. The Story & Clark organs also deserve mention, these instruments being constructed in many pleasing and artistic designs, which makes them an ornament to any parlor, while at the same time, musically considered, they are most excellent instruments. Mr. Thurston also deals in the fine piano-fortes manufactured by Behr Brothers & Company, which have met with marked approval from musical people and critics qualified to judge of their excellencies. By devoting their whole time and attention to this one class of instruments, and by devising new and useful improvements upon existing types, this concern have been successful in producing absolutely the best pianos of their kind. For thirteen years has Mr. Thurston carried on business at his present location. For over forty years however he has been engaged in the profession of music in the city, and his reputation in this direction is well known, having been tested through that long series of years. ,

10:^ POnTLAND AXD VICIXITY.

One of the most important of the prosperous manufacturing establishments in Portland is the Portland Stove Foundry Company. The business was foundeil as a ])rivate enterprise in 1877 by F. M. Lawrence and E. J. Clark, both of Bangor. Later Mr, Clark sold out to Mr. Pren- tiss Loring, who retained his interest about three years. In

1 880 a corpo-

r .1 1 io n was formed, Mr. .lames Noyes

u .IS elected i-esident,Mr. F. M. Law-

rence, trea,>iu- rer and su])er-

iiileti d e n t and Mr. J. B.

I iiogory, sec- iciary. Land was then purchased and commodious buildings erected. The com]jany have done a prosperous business, and they now own a frontage on Kennebec Street of 315 feet, extending back 168 feet to Somer- set. This territory is covered with substantial and well arranged buildings, filled with all modern machinery and appliances for doing the work re- quired, economically and expeditiously. The premises are lighted throughout with the incandescent system of electricity, the plant for which is owned by the company. A great variety of ranges, cooking and parlor stoves, furnaces, etc.. are manufactured by the company, and their sales extend largely all over New England. Their art castings are acknowledged to be superior to any in the market, and the illustration of their goods shown in the range on this page exhibits the excellence of their jiroducts, for which they have a large and increasing sale. PORTLAND ASD VICiyiTY. 103

Tlie buying and selling of real estate and transferring land titles has increased enormously of late years, especially in the suburbs of cities and large towns, and wherever there is a rapid increase of population and wealth, and now ranks with the most important and extensive business transactions of all

thriving and prosperous communities. Mr. John F. Proctor is the proprietor

of the oldest real estate business in Portland, and his office is located at No. 93 Exchange street, where he continues the business that was established here bj- his father, John C. Proctor, in 1855, over

thirt}- years ago, during which time the city and its environs have greatly extended in area, and the prices of land have correspondingly advanced with the increased demand for and

sales of real estate of all kinds, lands and houses and improvements. Mr. Proctor has now been in the real estate business twentj'-six years, associated with his father and predeces- sor John C. Proctor, who retired from active business three years since, leaving the good will and patronage of Residence of Charles S. Fobes. Corner Spring and Emery Streets.

the establishment to his son, John F. , who has for three j'ears past continued to conduct the business alone at the old location. Mr. Proctor's long experience in the real estate business, and his familiar and practical acquaintance with all parties buying or selling I'eal estate in this market, gives him unusual facilities for making satisfactory negotiations in dealing with the large and increasing

list of patrons, which the good reputation earned in the quarter of a century of business life has secured to him. Mr.jProctor is fully prepared, at all times, to buy and sell all kinds of real estate and other property connected

with it ; to negotiate mortgages, or makeltinvestments on mortgages on real

; in short, any and all estate ; to rent property upon commission to transact kinds of business usually' done in a first-class real estate broker's office. Whoever may desire to buy real estate or to invest money in mortgages 104 I'OIlTLAyV ASD VlViyiTT.

on landed property in the city of Portland or its vicinity will find it to their advantage to interview Mr. Proctor upon the subject, and an}- person seeking information relating to real estate and relevant matters, can always secure it of Mr. Proctor, who will be pleased to answer an\' inquiries made of him, and can assure his patrons of his earnest endeavors to do only a first-class business.

During the summer of 1888 the interior of the Second Parish Church was thoroughly renovated and repainted by Jost & Morton, fresco painters and decorators, and the manner in which it was done, as well as the excellence of its character already shows, although at this writing the work is not completed, that when finisheil the church will be one of the most beautiful interiors in the city. Messrs. Jost &. Morton are the only first-class firm in this line in Port- land and have done all the leading jobs here for a number of years, including many of the finest private dwellings. A very good specimen of their work may be seen in the directors' room of the Portland Savings Bank. The firm has been in existence for the past eight years and the members are practical men.

One of the most enterprising firms in the city of Portland is Goud^- & Kent, wholesale bakers and confectioners. Thej' occup3' a large three-stor}' building, 110x100 feet, fronting on three streets, Pearl, Milk and Silver, where they operate two large revolving or reel ovens capable of baking fiftj' barrels of flour per day, of ten hours, into all descriptions of fine biscuits and bakers' goods. In the same building they also run two tile ovens, which are speciall}- used for l)aking loaf bread, pastry, and other articles of daily consumption in the city. The firm also occupy and operate the old and well-known Kent Bakery on the corner of Vine and Fore streets, where the famous Kent Pilot bread has been manufactured for the past sixty j-ears. This baker}- is exclusively devoted to the manufacture of this bread, which has a world wide reputation for its keeping qualities. Tlicir ship bread is exported from here in large quan- tities to the Cape De \'erd and the West India Islands for the supply of vessels. In the Kent bakery three tile ovens are operated. Besides their extensive manufacture of baker's goods the firm make a verj' large line of confectionar}-, consisting of chocolates, bon bons, and penny goods which the}- wholesale to jobbers and retailers all over Northern New England and the Provinces, as they do also their baker's goods. Some of their specialties in both lines are in demand in New York, Counecticut, and the Middle States where large invoices are constantly being shipped and there is a limited call in the west and south for the same class of goods. The salesrooms and offices of the firm are in their main building, the retail department being a finely fitted up store on the corner of Pearl and Milk streets, while the wholesale rooms and offices are immediately adjoining. This PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 105

location is right on the line of travel to the harbor and coast-wise steamers, and being thus easy of access to sea-faring people, excursionists and island cottagers, they are enabled to cater to this class of trade very conveniently. The concern is the largest of its kind in Eastern New England. In both tlicir estalilishments they employ altocjothor about one hiuirli-ed hands. With-

Goudy & Kent's Bakery and Salesr»oms, corner PeacI and Milk streets, in the last eight j'ears their sales have increased tenfold, and this remarkable increase can be attributed only to the fine quality of their goods, and to the honorable treatment they have always extended to customers. Their annual production reaches the enormous quantity of nearly 3,000,000 pounds, of which 1,000,000 are in the line of coufectionarj- and 2,000,000 in baker's goods. For their local trade they employ nine sales and delivery wagons in the city and immediate vicinity. The total consumption of flour in both their establishments is sixty barrels a day. The most improved machinerj- and appliances are used in both bakeries. In the main building on Pearl street, three large elevators are run constantly. Both members of the firm are young men, but they are characterized by an enterprising public spirit, being interested in all enterprises that will benefit the community. Thej- are members of the Board of Trade and the Mer- chants Exchange. Mr. Kent has also been a member of the city Council for two years. 106 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

One of the most prominent and extensive business interests of Deering is the well known Brick Manufactor}' of William Lucas, located on the Sacca- rappa Road, about two miles west of Portland. The large brick yard and fine clay pit of Mr. Lucas is very conveniently situated for carrying on his business and gives employment to twenty men in the several departments of the works, and last year he made over 1,500,000 marketable bricks. Mr.

Lucas is also engaged in the lumber business at Saccarappa, where he owns and operates a saw mill. Mr. Lucas has a telephone at the oflace, No. 83 Preble street, in the city.

Commerce of Portland. — Arrivals in this port in 1887, of all classes of vessels were 3.621, including 736 steamers; value of imports by water, 88,656,034; of which §6,905,716, was by trans-atlantic steamers. Including eleven different lines, foreign and coast-wise, sixty steamers arrive here montbl3\ The receipts of grain for 1887 were 375,410 barrels flour, 1,296,- 408 bushels wheat, 2,500,273 bushels corn, 432,497 bushels oats, 576,450 bushels peas, 3,966 bushels rye. Ocean steamers brought here last year 85,000 tons of freight, and took away 100,000 tons. The domestic consumption of flour for the year past was 518,938 barrels, though the agsrcgate flour trade of the state was much larger.

Not only during the summer but also during the winter do the steamers of the Casco Bay Steamboat Company run to the islands. They make Uie same round as in the summer, with fewer trips, the average being six daii^-, and thus the islands are available as places of residence all the j-ear.

The Boston Chamber of Commerce, Merchants' Association, and rorlhuid Board of Trade, by their united efforts, have lately secured from the I'ost Oflice Department, a night mail service between Boston and New York. By this new arrangement mails from New York and beyond will be received in Portland several hours earlier, and mails hence will reach their destination at least six hours earlier than formerly.

Maine next to Baltimore has one of the largest canned goods business in the country, and though Baltimore leads in the quantity of fruit establishments, Maine leads the world in the superior quality of her coru, fish, meats, and vegetables. Corn packing first originated in Portland and at once leaped into popular favor, and great care has ever since been had with packers here to use only fresh and healthy materials and to exercise close oversight tliat all goods are cleanly prepared. The Islands.

From the earliest times the islands in our harbor have been much resorted to by our citizens for recreation during the heat of the summer. Cool- ness and comfort are to be found on their rocky shores when the city is sweltering under a blazing sun. The amusements of bathing and fishing inay be diversified by strolls through balsamic groves, or by watching the surges of the restless ocean as they break in foam at the base of old White Head.

at end of Custo Wharf— Off fo the Islands

Years ago, before pleasure-steamers were introduced, it was the custom to make the trip in sail-boats. By mismanagement, or sudden squalls of wind, these were sometimes upset, and whole parties of women and children were drowned. One of the most lamentable of these disasters occurred in July, 1848, when the wife and thi'ee children of Mr. Smith, and four children of Mr. John "Whyley, were drowned by the upsetting of the pleasure-boat Leo, near Hog Island Ledge, by a sudden fiaw of wind. Since the introduction of steamboats very few accidents have occurred, many thousands each season enjoying the trip with entire safety. If we chance to be on Commercial street some warm, summer afternoon, we shall see crowds of men, women, and children converging toward the end of Custom House Wharf, where the steamers of the Casco Bay Steamboat 108 PORTLAXh AND riClNITY.

CoiDpauy, take their depaijture. Or, at au earlier hour, excursion parties, numbering hundreds, which have come by rail from some distant interior town, may be found in pm-suit of the same object. The harbor at this time presents an animated and beautiful scene. The breeze ruffles the water just

sulliciently to give commotion to its surface ; the dancing waves gleam in the

bright afternoon_^sunshine ; the harbor is perhaps full of coasters, pleasure- yachts, and saU-boats, whose white sails, hoisted to dry after the rain, remind one of the wings of a flock of waterfowl just rising for flight ; sea-gulls wheel through the air on the watch for bits of food floating on the water ; row- boats are moving about from point to point ; the ferry-boat is steaming over to the opposite shore of Cape Elizabeth, and crowds of merry pleasure- seekers are swarming on the decks of the steamer. As she moves off from the wharf and steams down the harbor, the city with its docks, its shipping, its warehouses, its steeples, its ^_ " breezy dome " of shade trees, and the rounded sum- ,

_— niit rises its swel- ^ i of City Hall, on ^ —=- ling peninsula, presents a beautiful picture. Presently we are opposite

the Breakwater, extending from a point on the Cape Elizabeth shore, for protection of the shipping in southwesterly gales, with a harbor-light on its outer end to protect them from itself ! The Breakwater was commenced as long ago as 1S;3G, but was finished only fifteen or eighteen years since. The liglit-house at its extremity is a very tasteful little structure of iron. Now we are off Fort Preble, named for our Commodore Edward Preble, and situated ou Spring Point, Cape Elizabeth. The old brick fort has been demoliehed to give place to new breastworks not yet completed. Here the harbor garrison is stationed, and at close of day we may hear the sunset gun, and the drums beating the "tattoo." Nearly opposite, on House Island, is Fort Scammell, named for Colonel Alexander Scammell, a brave oflicer of the KcVdlutionarv Army. The original fort, connnenced in 1808, with its old- PORTLAND AND VICINITr. 109 fashioned block-house, has beeu dismautled to give place to a moderu fortification, -n-ith bastions, bomb-proofs, and heavy guns. Fort Scammell occupies a very important position in the harbor, commanding four of the channels leading into it. In consists in part of granite walls, and in part of earthworks. Farther within the harbor, on a low ledge off Little Hog Island, stands Fort Gorges, named for Sir Ferdiuando Gorges, the first

.^j.t:^^^-^^ ill

Steamer John Brooks, for Boston, passing Fort Sc

proprietor of this part Maine. It is octagon- shape as regards the form, of about three-fourths of — ^_^ "*s^^ _^- its conference, the back being straight ; is buUt — ^"^ r&=5s=sS"'^'°~^ of granite, with embrasures for two tiers of guns, while ou the parapet guns of the hea\'iest calibre will be placed. This fort is intended to defend the harbor and the channels leading into it. It presents quite an imposing appearance with its high granite walls, and green parapets, which are neatly sodded. Passiug down the ship-channel a short distance we reach CUSHING'S ISLAND.

Cushing's Island lies at the mouth of Portland Harlior, its southern end forming one shore of the ship-channel which is the main entrance to the harbor. It has the most bold and prominent features of all the islands in the bay. Rising to a considerable altitude, its southeastern shore presents a rocky and precipitous frout to the sea, terminating at the northeastern end in a castellated bluff of perpendicular rock nearly one hundred and fifty feet high. Along the high ridge of the island, for nearly its whole length, runs a dark forest growth, which gives it a bristly appearance, like "quills upon the fretful porcupine." From these woods, on the northerly or harbor side, the land descends rapidly to a little arable valley running through the island, and thence to the beaches and ledges that line the inner shore. Thus the island presents a stern rampart to the ocean, shutting it from view, while it smiles upon the smoother waters of the harbor. no POBTLAXD AXD riCINITY.

The earliest English name by -n-hich this island, and the mainland iu

Cape Elizabeth opposite to it, were known, was Portland, as was also the main channel between them, "Portland Sound." James Andrews was the

first proprietor ; he was living upon it in 1667, and it was known by his name.

Later, it was known as Fort Island, probably from its ha^•ing been a place of retreat from the Indians in KITt;, when a fort was hastily thrown up there for protection. It afterwards came into possession of Joshua Bangs, whose

name it bore for more than a hundred years. About forty years since it was purchased, for ten thousand dollars, by Lemuel Gushing, Esq., of Chatham, Canada, who in 1853 built a large brick hotel on the island, which he named the Ottawa House. This house was always a favorite resort of the best class of Canadians. On the death of Mr. Cushing, a number of years since,

the property came into possession of his sons, and its present owner is Mr. Francis Cushing.

The original house accommodated one hundred and fifty guests, but it was burned in 1880. A new and magnificent hotel of the same name was immediately begun on the same site, the enterprise being in the hands of a syndicate of capitalists and was opened this season. From the city and in sailing down the harbor the Ottawa at once catches the eye, and as the

steamer nears the Landing the structure, situated as it is on one of the highest points on the island, stands out in bold relief, and presents a most imposing appearance. A short w.alk from the landing, past picturesque cottages and shady willows, and up the short hill brings us to the hotel. The exterior of the building is unlike any other hotel iu Maine. It can hardly be described as belonging to any particular style or class of architecture. It is a building of no mean size, as can be imagined from the fact that the main hotel itself, without the ell, is 255 feet long, and the centre gable is over eightj' feet high. It has accommodations for over 300 guests. The Ottawa is under the management of ^I. S. Gibson, of Portland, proprietor of the Preble House.

The summer climate of the island is very equable and luiiltliy, the average PORTLAND AND VICINITY. Ill range of the thermometer, iu the rooms, being from sixty-five to sixty-eight degrees thi-oiighout the season. The balsamic odors of the firs and spruces mingling with the fresh sea-breezes, have a bracing and tonic effect. Good beaches afford opportunities for sea-bathing, while both the shore and deep-sea fishing are excellent. Gunners are caught from the rocks, and off White Head cod and haddock abound. A number of beautiful smnmer residences have been buUt on the island and many improvements have been made^^in the past few years, among others,

h and the Willows, Cushing's Island.

roads being laid out, rendering it possible to drive for six or eight miles along the shores and across the island. One of the most prominent, tasteful, and artistic cottages yet erected on Gushing's Island is the new summer residence and studio of Mr. Ilarrj' B.

Brown, the Portland artist. It is very finely located on the western slope of the island, opposite the west front of the Ottawa House and quite near its northern wing. The west side of the cottage is the residence. It is surrounded by broad piazzas on front and the ends, giving charming views of the bay, islands, and city. The east side of the house is the large, light and airy studio of Mr. Brown, its walls decorated with some of his finest coast scenes 112 rVIlTLAyO AND riCIXITY.

aii

There is a good road from the wharf to the hotel and a carriage for the accommodation of guests. On landing from the steamer do not take the open road to the hotel, but rather f(jllo\v the patli which leads past the cottages to the willow}- dell where stands the old fann-house. This hollow, into which 3'ou descend bj- steps cut in the green bank, is a surprise and a delight — tiie

1„, .,,,<• :,f • the i-i!;incl. in strong contrast to the wildness of White Head.

That looks sternly out on the heaving sea ; tliis nestles beneath old willows, through wliieh you catch glimpses of the smootiier waters of the main entrance to the harbor,

and the opposite shores of Cape I-Cli/.a-

licth. That is a bold headland, standing nil which, in an easterly stonn, the ad- mirer of the sublime in nature may see the waves break high in air as tiiey ccaselesslj' beat at the base of the cliff ; this is a dimple in the shore, smiling on a summer sea, where, seated on the grass with the green willows overhead, you may fancy yourself in a rural paradise. This pleasant retreat slopes down to the beach, " liere are bathing houses and where the smooth, hard sand, and the seclusion of the spot invite to a tumble in the sea. Climbing now to the higher part of the ishiiul we come to the hotel, standing on an elevated site commanding magnificent views. Pause on the piazza and look

toward the city. The A-iew of it is the

Cushing't 11 nest in our harbor. On the right lies

House Island, with its fort ; on the left, the ship channel, dotted with the white sails of passing vessels, with the opposite shore of Cape Elizabeth, Fort Preble, answering to Fort Scammeli, and the projecting breakwater with its harbor light. Across the harbor, in the distance, rises Munjoy, with the AVliite Mountains far behind it, from which a chain of lower hills stretches away to the west. The whole extent of the city is revealed from Munjoy to Rramhall, its spires rising above the foliage of the shade trees at its western end.

Now if you would have a still wider view, ascend to the cupola and look leawaid. The broad ocean is before you stretching far away to the horizon, PORTLAND AND VICINITY. il3 where the -white sails of the mackerel fleet mingle with the sky-line. I'ar below you lies Ram Island, with the surf beating on its ragged shores ; eastward lie the outer islands of the bay, and half-way Rock, with its solitary is light-house ; westward Portland Light, and the Two Lights the on Cape ; seaward the waves are all a-shimmer with sunlight, and departing ships cU>a\e swiftly thi-ough them. It remains only to visit White Head, the grand old headland that guards the eastern entrance to our harbor. It is a walk of a mile or more along the embowered path that runs through the evergreen woods. Here the close-set

Wh te Head, Cushing's Island. spruces shut out all sight of the sea, so near at hand, while yet the music of its breaking waves falls softly on the ear. One might think himself dreaming of the oceau in some far inland forest. Occasionally a break in the dense foliage gives a view of clustered stems, rising in " a dim, religious light," like the pillars of some vast cathedral. The soft carpet of the sod gives back no sound to your footfall, and the path is solitary, save the sentinel crow in some tall fir, who caws angrUy at your intrusion. The walk ends on the open brow of the precipice, from which the woods recede, leaving it to battle with the ocean in its native strength. Here the ww widens on all sides. Just 114 PORTLAND AXD VICIXITV.

below, on the right, lie the low green shores of Peak's Island ; in the fore-

jri'uuud on the left, are seen the frowning walls of the forts ; the city lies in the ilistance bathed in sunshine, while in the remote northwest the White Moun- tains mingle their summits with the cumulous clouds. Looking eastward the surface of the bay is broken by many wooded islands, and far in the dim distance Seguin appears, a shadowy outline on the horizon. Southward rolls till- ocean, with many a sail on its broad bosom,— some coming out of the misty distance, while others are disappearing beyond the line which bounds the view. "White Head presents to the sea a precipice of one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in height. It is composed of a gray, granite rock, split into leaves standing on their edges, fallen into broken fragments, scarred, seamed, jagged, and yet presenting smooth, precipitous walls, painted a warm orange-red by the hardj- lichens, whose mission it is to clothe the barren rock with beauty. The Head projects into the sea in thi-ee distinct masses, having between them two deep recesses, or miniature fiords, worn far into the cliff by the waves. Down one of these aliysses you may scramble over the fallen rocks, and sit under the projecting cliff, with the foamy sea beating on the barnacled ledges at j-our feet. Into the other recess there is no descent. Its walls on all three sides fall precipitously into the water which forms its floor.

It is a great ball-room, in which only the waves may dance, while we look on from the galleries above. The south wall of this recess runs out into a point not more than three feet wide at the extremity, and lying flat here one may look straight down into the sea, a dizzy depth.

Standing on tlie top of the cliff, and looking down on the white-winged craft which are continually passing, as thej- leave or enter the harbor, rising and falling with graceful dip on the long roll of the sea, you feel yourself poised in mid-air, and akin to the sea-birds, which soar and sweep around

you ; the white sails come and go ; the water surrounds you on all sides but one, and s|jreads in pale blue beauty up the lovely bay, or in deeper tints southward toward the horizon lines. IIow different must be the scene when a winter night shuts down iu storm and darkness, and the angrj- waves tumble into these rocky recesses, and leap in foam and spray high into the air. Then it is that AVhite Head is white indeed, and a welcome sight to the storm-tossed mariner, whose staggering bark leaps at once from a turbulent sea into calm waters behind its sheltering shores — the natural breakwater of our harbor.

PEAK'S ISLAND.

Peak's Island lies partlj' inside of Cushing's Island from which it is separated by White Head Passage. Together with Cnshing's Ishind it forms an

116 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. effectual barrier against the waves of the ocean, which would othei-wise beat in up to the wharves of the city. It is surrounded by foiu" islands — Cush- ing's, House, Hog (or Diamond), and Long—and with them forais a beautiful and safe harbor for thousands of vessels annually seeking its protection. It is about one and a half miles long, by a mile and a quarter wide, at the widest part, and contains seven hundred and twenty acres. Though not rising to so gi'eat an elevation as C'ushing's Island, or presenting so bold a front to the sea, it has many attractive features, being in some respects the most beautiful island in our harbor. Its outer shore is rocky and wave-worn, presenting an inhospitable aspect to vessels seeking the harbor in a stonn. Here the surf breaks heavily, and the spray, even in pleasant weather, frequently dashes in the air to the height of twenty feet. From the seaward shore the laud rises gradually to a central elevation of perhaps a hundred feet in the highest part, commanding magnificent views of the ocean, the harbor, and the mountains eighty miles away. From this elevation it descends to the inner shore, presenting a green and sunny slope to the smoother waters of the harbor. The island frowns upon the sea and smiles upon the city. There are few fairer pictures than that presented by its long strip of sandj^ beach, with the high green bank rising steeply above it, fringed in part by drooping foliage, behind which nestle snug cottages, while on the higher ground are seen the now numerous summer dwellings, the chiu'ch, the school-house and the many hotels and boarding-houses. The houses are dotted about in the most charming disregard of order and regularity, and foot-paths wind through the grass from one to another in a very pleasant waj'. As we approach in the steamer, the most conspicuous objects are the high tower in Greenwood Garden and the Forest City skating rink close to the water's edge near the landing. For two centuries there was not a regular road, nor a horse, upon the island, but a few year* since a street on the inner side, was laid out by the

city, in 1875 a portion of it was graded and it now extends all the way from Greenwood Garden to Evergreen Landing, while various other higiiways traverse the island. Though not the largest island belonging to the city, Peak's Island has the largest number of inhabitants, the resident population in liSMO numbering three hundred anil seventy. They are largely descendants of our first settlers, a hardy and industrious people, doing a little farming and a good deal of fishing. Of late years less attention has been paid to fishing and more to the entertainment of summer visitors. The beauty of the island, and its facilities for sea-bathing and fishing, yearly attract large numbers of summer boarders, as also excursion and picnic parties, and a few dwellers in tents by the seashore. There are now about a score of hotels and large boarding-houses on the island, which make a special business of entertaining visitors, while PORTLAND AND VICINITV. 117 nearly every house takes iu a few boarders during the season. Formerly as many as five or six hundred persons camped on tlie island in tents during the summer, but now-a-days the number is very much smaller, as the accommodations iu substantial houses has increased. The same fact is true of the other island, although on the more remote one campers are quite numerous. There are now many summer residences on the island, and the num- l)er within a few ^^ ^ -^ - • • years jiast has increased so rapidly that at the west end there is now a considerable community of red-i-oofed and commodious dwellings, the whole presenting quite a town- like appearance. No place ou the coast offers greater or more varied attractions for summer residences. The island at- ood Garden, Peak's Island. tracts a larger number of %'isitors than any other in our harbor, and forms with its swings, its bowling-saloons, its refreshment-rooms, its beaches, its woody retreats and rocky shores, a most attractive pleasure resort.

Mr. Willis, our historian, tells us that there is reason to believe that the first attempt to establish a plantation within the limits of ancient Falmouth was on Peak's Island. Christopher Levett records that iu 1623 he built and fortified a habitation on an island, which, from his description of the locatiou, is supposed to have been this one. He left ten men in ^charge of his house and went back to England to bring over his wife and children, but it does not appear that he ever came back. The island formed a'^part of the grant to

George Cleeve, and he, in 1637, deeded it to his son-in-law, Michael Mitton, from whom have descended the Bracketts and Trotts of our day, who stdl hold possessions there. They are a people tenacious of the [soil, and the island has been the fruitful mother of law-suits iu modern times,— one party 118 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. claiming possessiou through Mitton, aud the other thi-ough Phillips, to whom

Mitton's widow transferred it. It is believed to be held now under both titles, by a sort of compromise,— the Brackett branch of the Mitton family occupying part of it, and the grantees under Phillips the remainder. The island has borne the successive names of Pond, Michael, Munjoy, Palmer, and Peak's.

The first name was probably derived from the pond on the island : ^lichael comes from IMichael j\Iitton, the first occupant; Munjoy aud Palmer from

succeeding owners ; and of Peak's, strange to say, nothing is known. There are four landings for steamers on the island all on the inner side. Two of these are at the western end, first. Forest City landing formerly called Scott's, and close bj' Jones' Landing. At the former the steamers of the Casco Bay Steamboat Company stop, aud at the other steamer Greenwood lauds. Stepping ashore from either we find ourselves at once in the midst of an animated sceue of recreation. Here are the bowling-allej-s, the swings, and the old apple-trees, beneath which the elders sit whUe the children play around them ou the grass. A good beach here affords fine facilities for bathing in perfect safety. This section of the island is the popular resort for the people of Portland. Passing up the short hill and proceeding westward along the main road w« soon reach the Forest City Rink, the toboggan slide, and at the end of the street we enter the grove where ]Mr. C. H. Knowlton has established Greenwood Garden. This is one of the most beautiful spots on the island. The high bank is fringed here with trees, shutting in a bowery in- closure, half orchard and half grove, which forms a sylvan reti'eat from the crowd of pleasure-seekers at the landing. The grounds are beautifully laid out, and contain several complete exhibitions, among which are the mammoth Opera House where entertainments are given afternoon and evening, a zoological garden, aquarium, aviary, flying horses, a refreshment saloon, etc. One of the chief attractions is a high tower from which the whole island can be viewed, and the charming prospect of the islands, the city, and the bay is seen to rare advantage. The garden is under the manivgement of Mr. C. H. Knowlton.

Just outside of the bonds of Greenwood Garden, and near the shore, is the island cemetery, a neat iuclosure, with its white marble headstones and monuments. The spot was formerlj- neglected, and overgrown with bram- bles, exploring among which, some years ago, we found the grave of a poor printer, who visted the island for his health over fifty years ago, and died here. Ou his gravestone was inscribed, at his own request. Pope's well- known line: "whatever is, is right." A gentleman with us remembered coming down from the Argus office — in which he was then an apprentice — to attend the funeral. Bej'ond the Greenwood Garden, and so situated as to face White Head,

Cushing's Island, is the memorial building of the Fifth Maine Regiment, built PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 119 this season, and dedicated, with appropriate ceremonies, August 1st. The buUding is 30x50 feet, with a 10-foot piazza all around. The main hall is 30x50, with two large ante-rooms. The entrance is from the north-westerly end, and is by means of a broad pair of stairs leading to the piazza, from which wide doors open into the ante-rooms. The windows are all of stained glass, and the light from them is of a subdued yellow tint. Ten of them are memorials of the companies of the Regiment, and six others of individual ofHcers and privates.

Returning to the highway, a short distance eastward from the landing we come to the Bay View House, run by Captain J. T. Sterling. This is one of the best and most convenient hotels on the island. It is on the left side of the street as we approach from the steamer, and is situated directly on the bluffs overlooking the beach, the landings and the Sound between Peak's and

Diamond Islands, so that from its rooms, grounds, and piazza the prospect is not only beautiful, but life and interest is added by the continual succession of steamers, sailboats, and j'achts passing, and thus constituting a moving i)an- orama. A fine lawn slopes gently along the side of the house to the edge of the bluff, and under the trees here comfort can be taken if anywhere. At the base of the bluff are convenient bathing-houses for the use of gTiests, and the conveniences and appliances for fishing are very good. The house is conducted by Captain Sterling, and is a very popular place with its guests. The accommodations are for seventy-five guests. The house stands high on the bank above the shore, and commands a fine \iew of the harbor and the city. In this neighborhood are many neat cottages. The walk in this neighborhood, along the top of the high bank, commands fine views. .

120 POiriLAXD AXD VICINITY.

Continuing along the shore road eastward we soon pass, on the high laud, on the right, near the central portion of the island, the Methodist church, and

till' Imndsonie brick school-house built by the city, where a graded school is

maintained. The third landing aud next below those just mentioned is Tre-

fethens, which is only a short distance bj' the highway from Forest City AVharf

This place takes its name from Captian VT. S. Trefctheu, who runs the A'alley View House, a pleasantly situated hotel a few steps back from the head of the

wharf. The house is surrounded by trees and is in the midst of cultivated

grounds. This is a nuich quieter neighborhood than that at the westward landings. The advantages in the line of fishing here are most excellent. Captain Trefctheu keeps a fishing schooner in which nearly every day he sends

out parties for deep sea fishing. From the wharf itself the fishing is very

good while on the further side of the island the line fishing from the rocks is unexcelled, and the distance over is only half or three-quarters of a mile. Captain 'i'rcfetheu makes a si)ecialty of fried lobsters, which he prepares in a unique manner, and here fish dinners are prepared for large or small parties

at any time if sutlicient notice is given. Beyond Trefethen's we pass now into the thick growth of evergreens which covers the northeastern portion of the island, affording many jjleasant walks aud sunny glades where one uiay enjoy all the charms of solitude. Following the road we soon reach Evergreen Landing near the eastern end of the island. Here on the alu-upt shore among the trees are a score or more of tasteful summer residences, aud near the head of the wharf are a refreshment saloon and a bowling-alley. Many visit this point for the wildness of its scenery and the seclusion from the crowd which its rocks and groves afford.

The eastern end of the island, in its rough and broken features, presents a

strong contrast to the western end. Though it has not the elevation of AVhite

Head, it has a bold, rocky shore, opposite which, and uear at hand, lies Pump- kin Knob, a handful of rocks covered with an evergreen growth. The dead .spruces here on the top of the cliff are clad with moss, aud look like greybeards of the forest. Here the shore forms a sort of amphitheatre, on the high rocky walls of which are rude seats where we may sit, and look out ui)ou the islands of the lower bay, while listening to the nuisic of the waves lapping the shore far

below. Standing upon the barnacled rocks of the shore here, it is grand to

look up the storm Ijeaten walls of Ihe cliff to the spruces which overhang them, gray aud weather-worn.

Circling around tlie cliff, through the fragrant bayberry bushes, where the

sea-pigeon Hutters in the branches overhead, we come upon the outer shore of the island, Avhere the broad ocean opens to view, aud the breakers beat ui)on the rocks. Here the solitude until recently was broken only by the cry of some lone sea-bird, or the dash of the waves upon the shore. We pass a succession of rocky coves, and sea-walls — ramparts of rounded stones thrown up —

PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 121 by the waves. There is driftwood ou the shore, fragments of some wreck, perhaps, borne by the waves from distant coasts. More than one vessel has been wrecked on this rocky shore. In the great gale of 8th of September, 1869, the schooner Helen f:iiza, of Gloucester, Massachusetts, parted her cables and was driven on to the ledge off the deep pond, in the darkness and the crew storm. The took to the waves ; Ijut of the twelve men aboard, only one, Charles Jordan, of Rockport, Mass., succeeded in reaching the shore, all the rest were drowned. The schooner was ground to pieces on the rocks, and strewed in kindling wood along the shore. Ten bodies were I'ecovered ; that of the captain, Edward Millett, of Eockport, Mass., drifted out of the undertow and was bome through White Head Passage around to the harlior side of the island, where it was found in a cove. Until within a few j'ears this side of the island was neglected excei)t for fishing or camping, but ^^^_ -_ , -^ now a hotel, the largest .^ - on the island, the Chap- man House, with a ca- pacitj' for 150 guests, overlooks the wUdest portion of the coast from an elevated and commanding situation. The land in the vicinity, a tract of about one hundred acres, is the property of Mrs. May Chap- man, who is also the proof Rock Bound Pa prietor of the hotel. This section has been named Rock Bound Park, a very suitable appellation. The land rises to a considerable elevation a short distance back from the beach, and is covered with evergreen and j'oung spruce trees, the whole overlooking the shore and easily accessible fi-om it. Mrs. Chapman has laid out her property into five hundred cottage lots, and for the present the land along shore has been reserved as a park. Although so rocky, there are a few sheltered beaches where bathing is safe and pleasant. Already a number of summer cottages have been ei-ected, and more are in contemplation, some even being now in process of erection. This section of the island is specially desirable as a resting place in the summer. It is away from the bustle of the inner side of the island, there is no dust, no sand, and the soil is a dark rich loam, suitable for gardening. The ocean breezes, the balsam-laden air, with its health-gi^•^ng properties, which experience has proved is a sure cure for hay fever and catarrhal trouble 122 POUTLAND ASD VICISITY.

— these advantages are possessed by this portion of the island in greater per- fection than elsewhere. This locality is just the place to rest, and let nature's recuperative energies build up the system. The opportunities for fishing are unexcelled, either from shore or from boats. For bathing the advantages are excellent. The purchase of this property by ]\Irs. Chapman and its improvement by her has resulted in a decided benefit to the whole island. She is a lady of much tact and enterprise, and under her management, no doubt, both the hotel and the property ^ill be utilized to the best advantage. Extensive improvements are in comtemi)lation in the future so that the locality while still possessing its present natural advantages wQl also be within easy reach of the steamboat landings on the inner side of the island by means of good roads and rapid conveyances. Like all other out-of-the-way rocky shores in New England, tradition

has it that Captain Kidd hid some of his treasures on the shore of what is now Rock Bound Park, but although no one has ever found any, the effort of exploring the shore no matter with wliat end in view will be productive of

pleasure if not of profit.

Southward the bare, bold cliff of old AVhite Head appears in sharp relief against the heavy back-ground of dark green forest trees, beyond which the roof and cupola of the Ottawa House are visible. Glancing westward the entire harbor lies at our feet, filled with vessels, large and small, some just coming in, others standing out to sea, while three or four passing steamers help to give life and variety to the scene. The forts and the light-houses, the numerous forest-crowned islands, the newly-mown fields reaching down

to the water's edge, all claim their share of attention ; while in the distance

rises the beautiful forest city, still meriting its old and well-known title, though

man}' of its noble trees were laid low in the great conflagration. Its two hills,

one at either extremity, its shipping at the wharves, its numerous church- spires and the gilded top of the lantern surmounting the cupola of the City Building glistening in the rays of the descending sun, make up a picture of sur- passing beauty. Beyond all, away in the north, rises the great dome of Mount Washington, — whose mighty fomi is never so sharplj' defined as at sunset, in mid-summer, — its dark purple outlines presenting a strong contrast against the crimson sky. When the sun has finally gone down in a sea

of fire behind the mountains, and we reluctantly begin to walk down the liill,

our eyes are still fixed on that distant, cloud-like sunnnit, fascinated by its

strange, weird grandeur, as the shades of evening gather around it.

LONG ISLAND.

Long Island lies northeast of Peak's Island, and is separated from it by Hussey's Sound. It continues the line of natural breakwaters which enclose

and protect Portland Harbor. In 170C it was owned by the ubiijuitous John PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 123

Smith, aud on an old map of Casco Bay, published in London, it is called Smith's'^ Island. As its [present name indicates it has much greater length than breadth, presenting a long line of shore to the inner bay, while its outer

coast is more broken and irregular in form. The Government charts make it the largest island belonging to Portland, giving it an area of nine hundred and twelve acres. According to the census of 1880 it has two hundred and fifty- two inhabitants, of whom one hundred and forty are males, and one hundred and twelve females. The men are engaged in fishing and farming, alternat- ing with the seasons, a custom very common with the inhabitants along the

New England sea-coast. As the island has no marked features it has been but little visited uutQ within a few years. A wharf has been thrown out near the western end, where the steamer touches, and at its head there is a shed- like structure where clam dinners are served. On the northern side of Long Inland, and near the western end, convenient to the landing, is the Dirigo House, Mr. Joseph H. Perry, proprietor, the only hotel on the island. In the hotel and adjoining cottage, there are accommodations for 100 guests. The house is situated on a bluff, eleven and a half rods from the beach, and commands fine views of the ba}^ and islands. Di- rectl}' northward are the shores of Falmouth Foreside, with Clapboard Island intervening ; westward are Cow and Great Diamond, while to the eastward are Great and Little Chebeague. Immediately in the rear, and nearly surrounding the house is a beautiful grove of evergreens. The fishing ground for cod, haddock, cunners, mackerel, and other fish, is directl}- off the house, and the opportunity for pursuing the finny denizens of the deep are unsurpassed. Be- sides these natural advantages, the house has all the comforts and conveniences of a home.

In this connection it would be in order to mention the fact that Mr. Perry conducts a winter hotel in Florida, in the beautiful village of Interlachen, on the line of the Florida Southern Railway, eighteen miles west of Palatka, where one hundred Northern families have their homes. The house is known

as the Hotel Interlachen, and is the largest and best hotel in the place. It has a frontage of nearly one hundred feet on Lake Chipco, and has fine broad verandas in front. A constant supply of Northern meats, prepared by North-

ern cooks is kept in its large refrigerator, and the greatest care as to cleanli-

ness, so essential in that climate, is maintained in each department. In close

proximitj' to the house is the railroad depot, the church, and the lakes, on which boats are free to the hotel's guests. Good fishing and hunting are

found in the vioinit}'. The house is a homelike winter resort, free from the dissi- pations or exactions of fashion, and the table is well supplied with the best of food. The house has accommodations for 100 guests, and the rate is $7 to $9 per week, children half-price. Besides the accommodations of the main hotel

there are eight cottages adjoining ; the terms are $7 to $10 per week. In POllTLAXD AXD VICINITY.

going there from the north, the best route is to go bj* boat to Savannah, and then by rail the remainder of the journej-. For any further information or applications, address Dirigo House until October 1st.

DIAMOND ISLAND.

Diamond Island formerly called Hog Island, is the larger of two islands connected by a sand bar covered at high tide. History claims that Christo- pher Levett, in 1623, here built the first house erected within the limits of

the city of Portland. The Deering family bought it in 1772, improved it

many years as a hay farm and still retain an interest in it. This island comprises about 4()U acres, is heavil}' wooded and has many pleasant coves, the largest named " Diamond Cove," from beautiful quartz crystals found there, which were pleasant resorts for Portland people for over one hundred years. A company of about one hundred citizens of Portland, in 1882, purchased 215 acres in the centre of the island and along the northern shore to Seal Cove. Their land was platted into quarter acre lots, with avenues, parks, and play-grounds reserved, with wharfs on the northern shores and Diamond Cove, with provisions for proper sanitary regulations, and an ample supph- of pure water for the handsome cottages since built there, of which tliere are now about fift}-. At the time of the purchase the name of the island was formerly

changed from Ilog to Diamond Island, and the company of owners is known as the Diamond Island Association. It is one of the most beautiful islands in Casco Ba^', its front on " the roads " presenting a precipitous wall to the sea,

crowned with an evergreen forest, and the shady retreats of its many wooded coves have long been the famous and popular resorts of picnic and camping parlies from the city.

The undulating surface of Diamond Island is greatly diversified with deep ravines, rugged elevations, commanding extensive views, precipitous sea

walls, and green slopes extending to the shore ; its flora comprises a great variety of forest trees and wild flowers. The high swell of land in the centre of the island, so long a pasture and hay field, but now .adorned with numerous tasteful and handsome summer cottages, commands a very wide and beautiful view of the surrounding islands, the opposite main land, the Cape shore, the harbor with its shipping and the ever-moving panorama of pleasure steamers and sailing crafts, and of the beautiful "Forest City" enthroned on its elevated peninsula. .Shore fish may be caught from the wharves of the

island and good deep sea fishing is not far away. There is not a more charming spot for a summer residence on the whole coast of Maine ; some of the

cottagers go down as early as April or May and stay there till October, but

the real pleasure season begins with the first of July and extends to the middle of .September. The Casco Bay Steamboat Company's steamers, and other lines, make regular daily and frequent trips from the city to the island, PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 125 during the season, affording delightful excursions across the harbor and baj'. The house of the " Portland Club," is situated on the high land, near the landing. LITTLE CHEBEAGUE.

Little Chebeague lies inside of Long Island, opposite its noi-theastern point. It is connected with Great Chebeague by a sand-bar, dr}' at low water. It comprises but one hundred acres, but has some attractive features which make it a place of considerable resort. These are a charming grove on its highest point, with a thicket of undergrowth near at hand ; a spring of mineral water, a beach nearl}- a mile in length, and magnificent views of the bay, and the citj- in the distance. On leaving the wharf, at the landing, observe the bank composed wholl3' of comminuted clam-shells, giving evidence that this was one of the feasting places of the Indians. A ramble along the beach looking toward the mainland, and extending out to the bar connecting the island with Great Chebeague, will be rewarded by the discovery of many curious forms of marine life, not the least interesting of which are masses of the egg-cells of the buccinum un- dalum, resembling an agglomeration of the hulls of corn, for which they have been mistaken. There are two hotels on the island, the largest, near the landing, is the second hotel for size on Casco Bay, and will accommodate 100 guests. The other is known as Sunnyside House. The facilities for fishing and sea-bathing are good, and to those seeking health, the island oflfers pure air and a quiet retreat from the bustle of larger watering-places. There are several summer cottages on the island. The Tweutj'-Ninth Regiment Association Maine Volunteers have a memorial building on this island. HARPSWELL.

About fourteen miles down the bay lies the long peninsula of Harpswell. The town comprises several islands in addition, and is said to have more sea- coast than anj' State on the Atlantic coast, except the State of Maine. The three fine steamers of the Harpswell Steamboat Company make two trips dailj- to this point in the pleasure season, and sevui-weekl^- trips during the rest of the year, starting from Custom House Wharf, and the passage, occupying about two hours, aflTords a wide variety- of beautiful land and water views.

Passing down the harbor we see, on the left, the ship-building village of East Deering, and the Marine Hospital rising above the groves of Martin's

Point, with Mackev's Island in the foreground just ofl^ the Eastern Promenade, and now the property of Mr. James B. Baxter, he having a fine summer residence thereon. Leaving Fort Gorges on the right, we enter the passage between Peak's Island and the Hog or Diamond Islands. The western end of Little Diamond rises from the water in a fine slope, and is now dotted with picturesque summer residences. Near the middle of the island we pass the light-house I'i6 PORTLAND A \'D VJrJXiri'.

Station established by the United States Government for the storage of coal and buoys, and as the station of the steamer which supplies fifty-two light-houses, nearly all on the coast of Maine. The government has purchased and fenced in four acres of land here, and erected a neat cottage as a residence for the superintendent. The grounds have great variety of surface, including some beautiful nooks, and command a fine view of the harbor and islands. The trees have been carefully preserved. The eastern end of the island has a wharf, and is frequently resorted to by excursion parties. The island !)as a diversified surface and a forest growth, and was formerly a favorite resort of parties camping out. The steamer stops at the Farmer's Landing, on the eastern end of Great

Diamond, and from this point the sand-bar which connects the two islands, is plainly discernible, especiiilly if the tide is low. The large building on the hill

a short distance from the land is the new house of the Portland Club, and all around are tasteful summer residences, many of them recently erected. Coasting along the rocky wall of Great Diamond Island, crowned with a heavy growth of firs, spruces, and oaks, we come in sight of the beautiful Diamond Cove, which deeply indents its eastern end. This spot was much

resorted to by picnic parties in the days of sail-boat excursions, but is now seldom visited. It may be easily reached by row-boat from Evergreen Landing.

Crossing Ilussey's Sound we touch at Long Island, then steam across to Little Chebeague, and taking a turn around the projecting point of Great Che- beague, stop at the lauding on Hope Island. Then crossing the channel, we stop at Great Chebe.ague. Great Chebe.agiie belongs to the town of Cumber- land. It is a large island of two thousand acres, and has a considerable population, with churches and schools. A large hotel here accommodates summer visitors. The view at this point on a fine summer morning, when the sea is smooth and the sun is shining, is very lovely. The islands here cluster thick, completely shutting in the little harbor, so that it resembles an inland lake. Outside of us lies Mope Island, and outside of that Crotch Island, and beyond that again, Jewell's Island, — all beautiful islands crowned with forest growth. As we steam on we pass between Little Bangs' and Stave Island, and cross Broad Sound, in the mouth of which lies Eagle Island, high and densely wooded. We have been told that this island is the property of two widows, who receive from government an anniuty of sixty dollars to keep the wood standing as a landmark for the vessels entering the sound. The navigation here, owing to reefs and winding channels, is intricate and dangerous, for which reason the government has also erected a monument on Mark Island. Following the winding passages we enter Potts's Harbor, and land on Harpswell Neck. This long peninsula here narrows to a point, with deep water on either side. Just across the arm of the bay, to the eastward, lies ;

PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 1-27

Bailej-'s Island, one of the most beautiful in the ba}-, but seldom visited. In line with it northward comes Orr's Island, the scene of Mrs. Stowe's novel, "The Pearl of Orr's Island." These islands, indeed, are rich in literary associations. Ragged Island, which lies broad off in the baj', midway between Bailey's Island and Small Point Harbor, is supposed to be the " Elm Island" of the Rev. Elijah Kellogg's stories. Whittier has preserved a legend of these isles, and tells in his vigorous verse the story of " The Dead Ship of Harps- well," a spectre ship, which comes driving in as an omen of death, but never reaches laud : " In vain o'er Harpswell's Neck the star Of evening guides lier in;

In vain for her tlie lamps are lit Within thy tower, SeguinI In vain the harbor-boat shall hail, In vain the pilot call No hand shall reef her spectral sail, Or let her anchor fall." There are a number of hotels on the Neck, the Merriconeag House, the Harpswell House, the Lawson House, Alexander House, Sea View Cottage. Grand View House, Morse House, Mansion House, and others. Saloons and bowling-allej-s offer refreshment and amusement to excursion parties. The " Auburn Colonj'," families from Auburn and Lewiston, has a row of summer cottages here, arranged in a semicircle on high land overlooking the bay.

Ample facilities are offered for boating, and the summer heat is alwa3's tem- pered bj- fresh sea-breezes. EXCURSIONS IN THE BAY BY STEAMERS. The excursions that can be taken in Casco Bay by steamer from Portland are manj', and afford opportunities to see a wide variety of scenery. The Casco Bay Steamboat Company* run five steamers, named Forest Citj', Forest

Queen, Emita, Cadet, and Express ; and they make frequent trips to the nearest islands, Cushing's, Peak's, Diamond, aiid Long. The Harpswell Steamboat Company, bj' means of their three steamers, the Merryconeag, the Gordon, and the Alice, reach Long Island, Little Che- beague, Hope Island, Jenks', Great Chebeague, and Harpswell Neck, and Bailey's and Orr's Islands. One of the steamers of this line makes trips to Mackey's Island, and Waite's Landing, Sargent's Landing, and Town Landing on Falmouth Foreside. The Freeport Steamboat Compan}- run the steamer Phantom, between Freeport and Portland, touching at Great Chebeague, Littlejohn's and Cousin's Islands. The steamer Greenwood runs to Jones and Trefethen's Landings, Peak's Island, and the steamer Isis makes trips to Diamond Island and Cove.

In all, there are thus eleven steamers plying constantlj' to places on the bay, while trips on either the Boothbaj- or Mt. Desert steamers also afford opportunitj' to observe the scenery of the islands and the inland waters. Drives in the Vicinity.

Those who prefer liriving to boating may turn from the islands and enjoy pleasant excursions through the neighboring towns of Cape Elizabeth, Scarhoro', Deer- ing and Falmouth. There are many fine drives in Cape Elizabeth, commanding views of the city and of the ocean. One may skirt alons; the shore, by the sounding sea, where the waves break in spray upon the rocks, or may turn inland and drive through embowered roids, among green fields and orchards. In Deering he may visit Evergreen Cemetery, or the beautiful scenery on the shores of the Presumpscot. Along Falmouth Foreside are charming views of the bay, enclosed bv its wooded islands. A DRIVE THROUGH CAPE ELIZABETH AND SCARBORO' TO PROUTS NECK.

The old-time pleasure-resort, Front's Neck, is something over fourteen miles distant from the city by way of the ocean road, round the cape. This w-as the old road to Boston in the early days when the settlers crept along the sea-shore, crossing the mouths of the rivers by ferries. Parson Smith, on his trips to the metropolis of New- England, crossed Portland Harbor by ferry and rode on horseback along this shore road to Saco and Portsmouth, where he lodged over night, reaching Boston the third day. There are shorter routes to the Neck than this, but no other commands so many fine views of the ocean. Crossing Portland Bridge we have a fine view of the harbor, with the long line of wharves, the shipping, and the islands down the bay. At the Cape Elizabeth end of the bridge are the premises of the Portland Dry Dock Company, comprising an area of twenty-five acres, facing the harbor. The company was incorporated in February, iS6S, and the docks were formally opened in September, 1S69. There are two docks, the larger one having the greatest draught of water pertaining to any dock in United States. It is 425 feet long, 100 feet wide, with a depth of water on the gate-sil of 23 feet, at ordinary high tide. The dock would probably take in any vessel now afloat, excepting the Great Eastern. Powerful pumps, capable of emptying the basin in about two hours, are worked by steam, in a building by its side. The gate fitting the entrance to the dock is constructed in the form of a vessel, with bow and stern shaped alike. It contains about two hundred tons of ballast, besides compartments which may be filled with water. When the dock is to be opened, water is let in through the -

PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 1:

openings in the gate till the basin is filled; the water is pumped out of the compartments mentioned above, till the gate floats out of the grooves in which its ends and are fixed the is bottom ; gate then towed out of the way, and vessels enter. The next

operation is to tow the gate back into position over the grooves, into which it fits water-tight. When properly placed water is let into it and it sinks at once, and the dock is closed. Then the pumps begin to throw out the water from within the basin, in immense streams that astonish those who witness it for the first time. The vessels, sink upon cradles placed for them, and are steadied, as the water leaves them, by various mechanical appliances. These docks are built on the plan of the Simpson patent and cost about $^50,000.

At the end of the bridge, on the right, is a point of land where in the summer in years past, might often be seen a number of tents or shanties, occupied bv Penobstot Indians. For manv years they annually visited this spot, and

made it the headquarters of their trade in baskets. We are now in the village of Knight- ville. Here, on the Cape Elizabeth shore some thirty or more years ago, George

K nigh t , a s h ip builder, built him a house and set up a ship-yard. At that time the land lay vacant; but a thriving ^^^^^, Residence of Ph.np H. B,own, Glen Cov.. village, with its shops, its neat brick school-house, and its church, has gradually grown up around the original mansion of Mr. Knight, and now numbers several hundred inhabitants. Taking the left-hand road at the school-house, as we leave the village, we soon find ourselves climbing meeting-house hill, the summit of which commands a fine view of the city rising on the opposite shore. Here is the North (Congregational) meeting- house, with graveyard adjoining, known as the Mount Pleasant Cemetery. Still bearing to the left we strike into the road which skirts the shore bordering on the entrance to the harbor, and come in view of the islands in the bay. If we turn down one of the cross-roads here we shall reach the village of South Portland, and can drive around by Fort Preble. Cushing's Island lies just opposite, and there is a fine view here of passing shipping, and of the outer islands. Cape Elizabeth, as all this section of the country is called, forms a town by itself

and is an extensive peninsula whose shores are now dotted with summer residences.

The coast is very rocky and the land hilly. Returning to the main road and driving on, with the sea constantly in view, we pass a number of recently erected summer residences. On the left, about a mile further, is the summer cottage of Philip H. Brown, Esq. Situated in the midst of well-kept

grounds, on the edge of the clift", it commands a fine view of the ocean and of the vessels passing in or out of the harbor. 130 POHTLAND AND VICINITY.

Not far beyond we pass the entrance to Cape Cottage, a seaside hotel, built by John Xeal, and now conducted by B. C Gibson. Adjoining it is the Goddard Man. sion, built of the native gray rock, and perched like an old-time castle, on the top of the cliff, looking seaward. The road here winds pleasantly through a little green dell, and presently comes out on the roadway leading to Portland Head. This point is at the entrance to the ship-channel, along the shore of which we have been driving, and looks broad ofiF to the ocean. . Close at hand, on the angle of the shore made by the ship-channel with the mainland, stands Portland Light. This was the first light-house erected on this coast. It was completed and first lighted January lo, 1791. It is a fixed light, one hundred and one feet above the sea level, and visible in clear weather seventeen miles. Here is also a fog-trumpet, which in thick weather utters its loud warning notes to vessels approaching the land. There is a deep chasm in the cliff, just beyond the light-house, caused by the wearing away of a seam of trap-rock, into which the sea Hows, leavingit dry at low tide. In a storm the waves break here magnificently, throwing their spray at times as high as the light-house. This is a grand exhibition which Portlanders enjoy gratis, though not without peril. After a heavy gale parties frequently drive out to the Light to see the waves dash upon the shore. A number of years since two hackman, who had driven parties here, ventured too far out upon the rocks, when a great wave leaped up and swept them off, and their mangled remains were only recovered, wedged in among the rocks, some days later. The shore here, which trends away to the southwest, is bold and rocky, deeply worn by the beating waves which roll in from the Atlantic. In a storm the roar of the angrv sea is heard long before its white caps come in sight; the wind shrieks and bel- lows as though it were the mingled voices of ten thousand infuriated demons bent on tearing the ocean from its bed by its long white hair, flying in the gale; the long line of rocky shore is white with creamy foam and flying spray; the billows run high on tlie broad bosom of the ocean, and break over every half-submerged reef and ledge; far out on the Green Islands they are madly tumbling on the rocks ; Ram Island Ledge is a line of leaping, foam-white water; Trundy's Reef, where the Bohemian met her fate, shows white above the surf, like the hungry teeth of some sea-monster; while beyond, the waves dashing on Broad Cove Ledge leap high in air, great volumes of sea-foam, looking in the distance like angry spirits of the ocean striving to escape from its depths. Along the shore it is churn, churn, churn among the rocks; leap, leap, leap against the cliffs, as if so many foaming monsters were rushing from the sea upon the land, while the swirl and swash of the breakers in the chasms of the rocky wall end in spouting horns that throw their spray far over the shore. A short distance beyond the light-house, on the outer shore, stands a picturesque cottage, built of the native rock, with a lofty, massive tower, commanding a wide view seaward. Here, on a calm summer afternoon, the scene is in strong contrast to that we have just described. The ocean gently laps the rough ledges at the base of the cliff; its bosom is dotted with the sails of passing vessels, with here and there the smoke of a steamer on the horizon, while at nightfall the great lanterns of the light-houses gleam out in the distance. Just beyond this point we pass Pond Cove, where the sea breaks almost into the road, and a ride of a few miles brings us to the road leading off on the left to the Cape Lights, known as the Two-Lights. Here are two iron light-houses, fifty-four feet high, one hundred and seventy-two feet above the level of the sea, built in 1873 to replace the old toweis at a cost of $30,000. Five hundred sail of vessels PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 131

have been counted at one time in view from the summits of these lights. Near at hand is the cove wliere the steamship Bohemian, of the Allen Line of Liverpool steamers, came ashore some years since, and her cargo was strewn upon the beach, causing a novel scene of wreckage, the inhabitants turning out by hundreds to share in the spoil. This is a favorite point for picnic parties, who feast on cunners caught from the shore. A short drive brings us to the Ocean House. This hotel is admirably situated on the shores of a cove opposite Richmond's Island. The shore here is so fanned bv the

ocean breezes that the atmosphere is cool in the hottest summer day. There is an

Portland Light. excellent beach at hand, with facilities for bathing, while the sea view is unsurpassed. The house will accommodate from one hundred and thirty to one hundred and fifty boarders, and is always full in the season. It has long been a favorite resort of gentlemen from Canada, who come here with their families to enjoy the benefits of sea-bathing, in which they have great faith. The house is also largely patronized by Americans and is well kept by Mr. D. E. Dresser.

Driving on a few miles we cross the Spurwink River, winding through its marshes, and turn down a road, on the left, to the Spurwink House, a sort of sportsman's lodge, where gunners resort in the season to shoot coots, plovers, and other sea-fowl. Good

fishing is also to be had here. The house is situated on the bank of the river, in a pleasant spot. A short distance from this point we drive down a farm-road, through a farm-yard, to Higgins's Beach, at the mouth of the Spurwink. It was near this spot that our first settlers, George Cleeve and Richard Tucker, first established themselves in 1630, but were driven oft' by John Winter, the agent of the patentees, and subsequently settled on the Neck, now Portland. Here is a fine beach, with the surf rolling in magnificently.

The spot is secluded and beautiful, and affords a fine site for summer cottages. 13-J POBTLAND AND VICINITY.

The next points of interest are the Scarboro' Beaches, where are situated the Atlantic House and the Kirkwood House. The one entrance which leads to both these houses is through a fine evergreen grove, largely composed of grand old pines. Turn- ing to the left, where the road divides, we soon reach the Kirkwood House, kept as a summer resort by Mr. Otis Kaler. This house will accommodate about one hundred guests. The rooms in the main house are unusually spacious; and the cupola commands wide views of the sea, also of Richmond's Island, Old Orchard, and the White Mountains. It has a detached building, in which are many of the sleeping-rooms, with a large hall for amusements. Surf-bathing may be enjoyed on the beach in front of the house. The house has always been kept by experienced landlords, and is a favorite with many regular visitors to the sea-side. It has in past years, when kept open in the winter, been a resort of sleighing-parties from Portland. From the Scarboro' Beach road one can look across to the White Mountains. On clear days the highest peaks show sharply against the sky. The right-hand road carries the visitor to the Atlantic House, a favorite hotel, long kept by Mr. S. B. Gunnison. It accommodates from a hundred to a hundred and fifty

boarders, and is always full in the season. It has a splen- ^=^ did beach, with fine facilities for sea-bathing, and having also a pine grove of twenty acres, with beautiful walks, it Combines the attractions o( the sea-shore and the' 'country. The Atlantic House is twenty rods from the beach. The remains of an old fort are found here, dating from the times of Indian warfare. Many visitors return here season after season, andlare much attached to the house and its popular landlord. One mile farther brings us to that ancient summer"resort known as Prput's Neck. We are now on historic ground, this having been thejpoint earliest settled in the town of Scarboro*. As early as 1633 Thomas Cammock, the first proprietor, had a house here, the cellar of which is still pointed out, as is also the site of the garrison where, in 1703, eight men drove olT a besieging force of 500 French and Indians. The Neck forms a peninsula, with the ocean on one side and a broad estuary on the other, on the opposite shore of which lies Old Orchard Beach, with its many hotels, in full view. For many years this Neck has been a favorite resort of picnic

parties from Portland, Saco, Scarboro', Gorham, and other towns. It was long the property of the late Thomas Libby, whose family accommodated transient visitors by PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 133 cooking the fish caught by them oft" the rocks. The last few years have witnessed a marked and rapid increase in the accommodations for summer visitors, many of wliom are from New York, Philadelpliia, and from the south and west, owning their own cottages, and making it their residence through the season, the bathing being unexcelled by any on the coast, and the southwest trade winds blowing almost constantly through the season, makes the temperature ten to twelve degrees cooler than the neighboring city of Portland. The landward view is worthy of more than passing notice, taking in as it does Saco Bay with Old Orchard and Pine Point in the foreground, while in the distance the White Mountains form a fitting background to the delightful picture, the intervening hills and valleys serving to throw them out in all their grandeur.

There is a fine sea-beach on the Neck ; also a bold, rocky shore, commanding wide ocean views. The shore is much resorted to b\ gunners, for the shooting of sea-fowl, whicli are often seen floating in large flocks on the surface of the sea. Scarboro' is famous for its marshes. The Indian name was Owas. coag, or "place of much grass," to which these extensive marshes fairly entitle it. Pine Point is the name applied to the eastern end of that magnificent beach which extends from the mouth of the Saco to the Scarboro' River. It is thus in reality but one portion of Old Orchard Beach, although this part is in the town of Scarboro'. It is

bordered by a thick growth of pines, from Two- Lights. which it takes its name. There are now sixty or seventy summer residences in the vicinity, and several hotels, chief of which are the Pine Point, the Sportsman, and the Meredith Houses. It is reached by the trains of the Western Division of the Boston and Maine Railroad. 134 PORTLAND ASD VICINITY.

ALONG FALMOXTTH FOBESIDE.

One of the most attractive drives in the vicinity of the city is through Falmouth, along the shore of the bay. Passing through Washington street, with Munjoy's Hill on one hand and Back Cove on the other, (of which latter, and the opposite shore of

Deering it gives a commanding view), and crossing Tukey's Bridge, which spans the entrance to the cove, we enter the village of East Deering. Turning to the right soon after crossing the bridge we drive through the principal street of the village, lined with neat dwelling houses, and presently come in sight of the United States Marine Hospital, situated on Martin's Point, at the mouih of the Presumpscot,— here a wide estuary, opening to the sea. The hospital is a finely proportioned edifice, built of brick, and stands on an elevated site, overlooking the city,

the bay with its islands, and the open sea in the distance. It is a healthful and attractive spot, and the extensive grounds afford ample space for out-of-door recreation. Crossing Martin's Point Bridge, which spans the Presumpscot and commands a beautiful view of the bay, we climb the hill and enter the road which skirts the " Fore- side " of Falmouth. The spot we have now reached is one of the three points on which the earliest settlements were made within the territory of ancient Falmouth. While Winter was persuing his commercial speculations on the Spurwink, and Cleeve and Tucker were laying the foundations of a settlement on the Neck, Arthur Mackworth

was making for himself a home on this point. With the island opposite, it afterwards bore his name; now corrupted, as applied to the island, into Mackay. Machworth was in possession here as early as 1632. He had a grant of five hundred acres from Sir Ferdinando Gorges, and was one of the most respectable of early settlers, serving as a magistrate for many years. The road here runs for miles along the shore, which has many picturesque features.

The seaward view is in wide contrast to that from the Ocean Road on the Cape. There the broad Atlantic rolls in and breaks upon the shore; here the calm waters of Casco Bay, sheltered by the long line of outlying islands, smile in the sunshine, apparently as secure from the ocean's turbulence as an inland lake. Off the point lies Mackay's

Island just ; still Island, now ; beyond are the Two Brothers and farther out. Clapboard unhappily denuded of its forest growth, lying low on the surface of the water, like a dismasted wreck. Turning down a road on the right we enter a projection of the coast, making out into the bay, on the shore of which Charles W. Goddard, Esq., has an elegant summer residence. Just across a little cove, on a narrow point of land, is Thornhurst Farm, the summer residence of Gejieral John M. Brown. This is a stock-farm, with spacious barns and out-buildings, the General being engaged in the breeding of fine stock. A number of years ago he found this point of land a rocky pasture, but has now made it a beautiful spot. Its natural attractions are very great, being an elevated neck of land between two pretty coves, the shore fringed with trees, and looking out upon the calm waters of the bay. On a reef a short distance from the shore the seals have their breeding-ground, being undisturbed in this quiet spot.

This projection of the shore, on which are situated these two summer residences, is

a point of historic interest. There is little now in its solitude and seclusion to remind

one that it has been the site of a considerable settlement; the scene of peaceful con- ferences with the Indians; of their savage attack, and the stout defence of the white man. Yet this is New Casco, a settlement of much importance in the history of ancient Falmouth. After the peace of 1698 a fort was erected here in 1700. as a trading- post to accommodate the Indians, in pursuance of the lale treaty. The settlement on the Neck, where Portland now stands, then known as C":i-rii. h:ul lu.n destroved in POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 135

1690, and was now desolate. The settlement here was called New Casco, to distinguish it from the Neck, where Fort Loj'al had stood, which was then called Old Casco. In 1703, Governor Dudley held a conference with the Indians at the Fort here, to which came, well armed and gaily painted, the chiefs of the Norridgewock, Penobscot, Pen- acook, Ameriscoggin, and Pequakett tribes; those of the Ameriscoggin tribe were accompanied by about two hundred and fifty warriors in sixty-five canoes. The Indians professed the most peaceful intentions, and celebrated the occ.ision with singing, dancing, and loud acclamations of joy; yet within two months "the whole eastern country was in a conflagration, no house standing or garrison unattacked." The fort here at New Casco became the central point of defense for all the settle' ments upon Casco Bay, and the centre of the scattered population of Falmouth. In 1703 the fort was attacked by five hundred French and Indians, and was on the point of being

captured, when it was relieved by the arrival of a province armed vessel, which shattered the enemy's navy of two hundred canoes, and compelled the Indians to make a hasty retreat. The fort was occupied through the war, which continued until 1713. It was demolished by- order of the Govern- ment of Massachusetts in 1716. Returning]to the main road,\a short distance Hospital. beyond New Casco, we pass the head of Mill Creek, where a mill, established in 1740, was operated for a hundred and forty jears. Pause here and admire the beauty of the spot, where the cliff, clothed with evergreens, overhangs the still water of the pool. On the right, a little retired from the road, is the elegant and unique summer mansion owned by J. Hopkins Smith. Not far from the Creek is the pretty home and grounds of Mrs. John \V. Dana. The present village of New Casco forms one continuous street of comfortable residences, with several beautiful mansions, and there is besides a large hall for public purposes. A short distance from the village, on a road to the shore, is the famous Underwood Spring, which was so highly prized by the aborigines that they maintained a constant guard over it for many years. Continuing on we come to the dividing line between the towns of Falmouth and Cumberland. In this neighborhood are the fine residences of George Burnham and Almon A. Strout, Mr. Burnham's house being close to the road, while Mr. Strout's, near the shore, is conspicuous as we approach. Driving on, past old farm-houses, with their big, square chimneys, always keeping the bay and the islands in sight, we come to a rocky hill, from the summit of which 136 POUTLAND AND VICINITY. may be obtained a magnificent view of the bay, lookingoff towards Cousin's Island and Broad Sound. It seems more like a Scotch lake than a part of the wide ocean. Inland the eye sweeps over a wide extent of cultivated country, presenting a beautiful landscape. Looking seaward the whole extent of Casco bay lies spread out before you, and from here the Atlantic and the White mountains are also in view at the same time. At the foot of this elevation is the cottageof the Rev. Dr. Dalton, rector of St. Stephens', Portland. On its western slope is the handsome residence of Mr. R. O. Conant, of Portland, and his estate embraces the whole western slope of the hill. One may drive for miles farther along this shore, under the shade of old elms, and past many beautiful spots well suited for summer residences. TO EVERGBEEir CEMETERY AND PRIDE'S BRIDGE. Turning now from the seashore, let us drive inland, amid more rural scenes. We may take the horse-cars in Market Square for a trip to Evergreen Cemeterv, or drive out over the Deering road. Passing down Green street we come to Deering's Bridge,

which spans the creek running up from Hack Cove, now partially filled in, forniinEf a driveway to the new Park, formerly known

as Deerins's Oaks. On the right is the cove, with Munjoy forming the opposite shore. Kennebec street comes in here at the Portland end of the bridge, running along on the made-land on the shore of the cove. The improvements already made in the new park, which has come into the possession of the city through the generosityof the Deering heirs, have rendered it a very attractive spot, and it is now a favorite resort with all classes, as it has long been with Portland boys. It is covered with grand old oaks, affording charming walks. The shore of Back Cove, extending from this point around to Tukcy's Bridge, is capable o' great improvements. It was one time proposed to construct a dam at the bridge, with tide gates, allowing the flood tide to fill the cove; then construct a boulevard around the shore of the cove and l.iy out the inner side in building lots, the outer side to be PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 137 kept open to afford a view of the cove and the city beyond, but the demands of business have supplanted this project. The Back River now has a considerable commerce, several hundred vessels entering it during the year, through the drawer in Tukey's bridge, and no doubt when the improvements mentioned elsewhere, now being made by the United States engineers, are completed it will be available for these purposes to a much larger extent than at present. It is evident at a glance that its shores offer great opportunities for magnificent improvements, while the neighboring heights, commanding fine views, afford sites for elegant and imposing residences. Time and a denser population will produce great changes here, converting the solitary shore and unfragrant fiats into scenes of beauty.

The Deeiing Mansion.

After crossing tlie bridge we observe the road on the left which runs past the mansion of the late James Deering, Esq. Situated in a retired nook, in the midst of green fields and orchards, and surrounded with graceful elms, this old-time mansion has an air of quiet and repose, of mellowed old age and peaceful beauty, that charms every beholder. The old oaks that linger in these broad fields have witnessed the events of two hundred years, and could tell of the great fight in which Major Church whipped the Indians, and saved the little village from slaughter. The land is now improved as a hay-farm, with many barns scattered over its fields. In the month of June, when the grass is green and dotted with golden dandelions, and the elms are in the freshness of their foliage, these fields present a charming picture of rural beauty. Just beyond the Deering mansion, in a secluded corner of the city, which here meets the Deering line, are several fine residences, of which we select for illustration

the picturesque cottage of J. S. Palmer, Esq. 138 PORTLAND AXD YICINITY.

Continuing on the main road we pass through the little village at the "point," where is situated the extensive establishment of the Portland Stone Ware Company, lor the nianutacture of drain-pike, vases, and stoneware. The companv have a wharf on the shore of the cove, and ship their goods directlv from the manufactory. Driving on through the Deering lands, Iving unimproved on either hand, and dotted with old oaks and walnuts, which [every autumn attract the assaults of school- boys, eager to gather the crops of nuts and acorns, we come to the residence of Wm. W. Brown, Esq.. situated behind its grove of oak and maples, on the shore of the cove.

This is an elegant and costly "-m^'ii \vm1i improved grounds, retired from the road. Adjoining this

estate is that of J S. Ricker, Esq., with garden and orchard extending to the shore of the cove. The mansion is finely situated in the midst of ornamented grounds. Next we come to the residence of the late Cap-

tain J. B. Coyle, the Nestor of steamboat navigation in our waters. This palatial mansion situated in the midst of exten-

sive grounds, is now called " Oaklawn,'' owned by H. B. Mallett, of Free- port, and occu-

.. pied by L. F. Dyer. The brick house, under the elms, on the opposite side of the road, is the residence of the late II. Q^ Wheeler, Esq. On the suinmit of the commanding elevation beyond is the home of John M. Adams, Esq., editor of the Eastern Argus. Next to Oaklawn are the extensive grounds of Warren Sparrow, Esq., on which he has a neM cottage residence. The village is entirely surrounded by railroad tracks, the Maine Central running on one side, and the Portland and Rochester on the other, and both crossing the main street, while the track of the horse-cars run through it. The " Corner" itself, being cut up in this way, and built without much regard to regularity, does not present a very attractive appearance, but there are man3' very pleasant locations on the streets leading otT from it on cither hand. On Spring street, which runs up the higher land, on the lefi, is a very handsome Congregational church, with a bell in the lower pre- PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 139

sented b^ the Misses Deering, for whose family the new town was natned when it was set off from Westbrook a few years since. On Ocean street, which turns off around the cove on the right, is a well-proportioned and substantial brick school-house, of two stories, in which are maintained graded schools. Woodford's corner is the most rapidly growing suburb of Portland. Since the fire of '66 many new streets have been laid out up the high land, on the one hand, and down the slope towards the cove, on the other, and have-been extensively built upon. The population has largely increased, and the ready access to the city furnished by the horse railroad, and the pleasant " lay of the land," commanding fine views of the city and the bay, must continue to attract here a desirable class of residents. Following Ocean street, along a road lined with elms, and where, throutjh the sweeping away of roadside fences, the cultivated tiilds hordfr close upon the sidewalk, we come to the residence of the late Dr. S. H. Tewksbury. The view from this

point, .— of the city, rising on the peninsula across the cove,

with its church- spires and the dome of City Hiill — is one of great beauty. This road has many attractions as a quiet drive amid rural scenes, with the city always in full view. One may drive on, past Graves's . of Joseph S. Hill, from the top of which a more extended prospect presents itself to the eye, and return to Port- land over^Tukey's Bridge. Continuing on our way through Woodford's Corner, we pass the station of the Maine Central Railroad, where passengers may leave the train and enter the city bv the horse-cars, thus saving the long distance down town from the station in the city. Many also prefer to take the trains going eastward here, coming out on the horse-cars froiTi the city. Following the track of the horse-railroad we turn into Pleasant street, near the Maine Central Station. Pleasant street is a handsome avenue, half a mile in length,

lined with gardens and a number of fine residences. At its head, a little to the left, is the Presumpscot Trotting Park. Here is an excellent half-mile track, with extensive grounds, enclosed by a high fence. All the appointments of the park, as a race-track, are first-class. There are covered seats for spectators, with a restaurant at hand, and extensive accommodations for horses. Trotting matches take place here in the season. 140 PORTLAXD AND VlCiyiTY. drawing large crowds of spectators from the city. The Maine State Agricultural Fair was also held here for a term of three vears from 1S75, and there are within the grounds every accommodation for watering and sheltering slock, and also a large two-story

building for the display of agricultural implements. At the head of Pleasant street is the village of Deering Centre, and here stands the handsome building'of the Deering High School, and the Grammar School. Persuing our way to Evergreen Cemetery, we turn to the right, at the head of Pleasant street, and drive along the road over Stevens' Plains. It extends for a mile or more over a level, sandy surface, lined in part by umbrageous elms and maples, beneath which nestle the old- time mansions, mingled with more pretentious residences. Among the more noticeable dwellings here are the twin houses of Messrs. Grenville M. and Frank G. Stevens, and the residence of Ru- fus Dunham, Esq.

(In the right is a tract of woodland, nearly lialf a mile square, in t.he centre of which the late F.

O. J. Smith has his "Forest Home." The mansion lies secluded from the road,inthis shady English-park-like estate, now the ]>ro|Hriy <>l' James P. Baxter, Esq. A portion of the northern part of the estate now belongs to the Roman Catholics, who have here a wooden chapel and two large brick buildings called St. Joseph's Home for .\ged and Convalescent Women. This brings us to the entrance of Evergreen Cemetery, situated about two and a half miles from the city. As long ago as 1851 it was felt that the city Itad outgrown the two narrow graveyards within its limits, and the modern taste for ornament, beauty, and refinement in the last resting-place of the dead demanded a larger and more secluded cemetery. Accordingly in 1S52, largely through the instrumentality of our fellow citizen, S. B. Beckett, who selected this beautiful spot, a tract of fifty-five acres covered with a various growth, but chiefly evergreen, and of sufficient diversity of surface, was purchased by the city and laid out under the appropriate name of Evergreen

Cemetery. By subseipient purchases of surrounding territory it now comprises considerable more than three hundred acres. A considerable portion of the more recent POKTLAXD AND VICINITY. 141

purchases is still unimproved. Lots of about fifteen by fifteen feet in the older portion of the ground are sold to citizens at twenty dollars each, while similar lots in the new ground are held at one hundred dollars each, including perpetual care. The cemetery is in charge of a commission of three trustees, with a resident superintendent. The latter ofiice has for some time been filled by Mr. Frank M. Floyd, to whose good taste many of the improvements are due. Since 1S69 the income and expenditures have been nearly $10,000 per year, upon an average. The entrance is through an avenue bordered with shade trees and arbor vitae hedges. On the right, as you enter the t;rounds, is the large receiving-tomb, a turf- covered mound, with gra n ite front. In the same direction, farther on, is lit. tie Westbrook Cemetery, — the boundary marked only by

v i n e-co vered iron arches. Just beyond this enclosure, near the boundery-line of the cemetery, is the most costh and elegant monument in the grounds, that of the late San.-

uel Rumery; it is of Italian marble, and is designed with great artistic taste and executed with much skill. Not far from this point, in a westerly direction, is the monument of the historian of Portland, the late Hon. William Willis; and still farther on in the same general direction, down the slope, lies the remains of the Hon. William Pitt Fessenden. The rapid descent of the land, at a point a little beyond this, affords opportunity for a line of tombs with massive granite fronts, the tops of which, on a level with the upper walks, are grass-covered plots. During recent years very handsome and costly granite and marble monuments have been erected here for Charles E. Dole, Samuel Wildes, Jr., Samuel Spring, and

others. It is estimated that about 4000 interments has been made here since iSSi. The Portland and Deering street cars run directly to and from Evergreen Cemetery. Below the tombs, some distance down the slope, are the ponds, bordered with seats, spanned with rustic bridges, the shore adorned with rustic arches and arbors. On the surface of the ponds float swans and ducks, the feeding of which is a deligh' to children. POBTLASD AXD VK IMTY

On the left of the entrance is Evergreen Circle, a ring of lots neatly laid out, with a circular enclosure in the center. The prevailing style of enclosure is simply a granite base, with turf-covered mound. There are many elegant monuments in the grounds, and corner-lots are devoted to flowers and shrubbery. Some of the walks wander beneath dark shadows of evergreens into secluded spots, where the thought- ful mind may muse on the transitory nature of earthly life: anH oiher>^ I'e out in the

broad sunshine, where may be seen the distant mountains pointing like faith to the skies. One may wonder long through these by-paths, attracted by the decorations and the flowers which aflection has lavished on the dead, as well as by the shurbbery, and the noble old trees lifting their heads high up into the blue air, and aflbrding homes to the song-birds which build among their branches — a life soaring above death. The beauty of these grounds, where the harmonies of art are blended with the wildness of danger, sheds the radiance of a heavenly light upon the gloom of death. Thousands come here — particularly on Sund.ays — for a quiet walk among the blended beauties of nature and art, where all the associations are conducive to meditative thought. In addition to Evergreen Cemetery Portland has four other burying grounds. Of Eastern Cemetery, the oldest of all, we have already given some account. Western Cemetery lying on the slope of Bramhall's Hill, within the limits of the city, comprises about fifteen acres, and was laid out in iS;i). One of the most conspicuous " VLi,rt') ^Ti 1 >-,MU

a"^-*.'^ c "^tJX

views in Evergreen Cemetery. 144 POliTLAND AND VICINITT.

monuments here is that to Chief Justice Prentiss Mellen, erected in 1850 bv the Bar of the State. In 1S58 sixty acres were purchased in Cape Elizabeth, near Vaughan's Bridge, about a mile nnd a half from the centre of the city, and laid out as " Forest City Cemetery." It affords cheaper accommodations for the dead than Evergreen Cemetery. " Mount Cavalry Cemetery," comprising six acres, in a secluded spot in Cape Elizabeth, about two miles from the centre of the city, is the last resting-place of the Catholics. It has a neat chapel, and, was consecrated by Bishop Bacon to the burial of persons belonging to his communion. The villa?e of Stevens' Plains, with its broad, level streets, and sidewalks shaded with umbrageous maples and elms, has a quiet and rural beauty. Its

chief ornament is the Universalis!, Cluirch, a very tasteful structure built in 1867, at a cost of about $14,000. The

front elevation is in the Gothic style, with a lower at the corner surmounted by a spire rising to a height of one hundred and ten feet. The audi-

torum is forty- five by seventy- five feet, containing eighty pews, in chestnut, trimmed with black walnut. The ceiling is open, and handsomelv frescoed in blue and gold. The windows are of stained glass, admitting "a dim religious light," and a gallery over the entrance affords accommodation for the choir. The general effect is exceedingly neat and tasteful. The church stands at the entrance to the grounds of Westbrook Seminarv. This institution, incorporated in 1S31, was the first seminarv of learning established in New England under the patronage of the Universalist denomination. The seminarv building was erected in 1834, at a cost of $7,000. The first term commenced June 9, .834, with the Rev. Samuel Brimblecom, principal, and the Rev. Alvin Dinsmore. assistant. I he institution has since been under the charge of a number of able teachers, and includes among its graduates many who are doing good service in the various walks of life. To meet the need of boarding-houses Goddard Mall, for gentlemen, was built in 1859, nnd Hersey Hall, for ladies, in 1869. These are large brick edifices, connected by a dining-hall, and take their names from generous beneficiaries of the institution. In 1S63, by Charter amendment, a Collegiate Department was established for La- dies, and authority was given to confer degrees upon those who complete prescribed courses of study. The institution is now known as the Westbrook Seminarv and Fe-

146 PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

male College. The Rev. James P. Weston, d. d. formerly principal, from 1853 to 1S59, has been president of the Seminary and College since 1878. It provides two courses

in the Collegiate Department, and confers the degree of Laureate of Arts upon ;ill young ladies who successfully pass examination in a classical course, and Laureate of Science in the scientific course. In the Academic Department diplomas are granted in two courses, English and College Preparatory. The institution has extensive grounds, handsomely laid out, and all the surroundings are conducive to studious habits and good deportment on the part of the pupils. Thorough repairs and important changes have recently been made in both halls, Sabago Water introduced, and modern improvements added. Steam heat is used in rooms and halls, and the boarding accommodations are ample and excellent. The school year begins in Sept., annually, and closes in June with graduating exercises. Passing on through the village, and turning to the left at Morrill's Corner, the end of the horse-car line from Portland, a drive of a mile or two brings us to Pride's Bridge, on the Presumpscot. The river is here spanned by a neat iron bridge, from the middle of which may be obtained a view of the Presumpscot, which, for quiet

beauty, is rarely surpassed. The placid stream glides smoothly between green banks bordered by graceful elms, which are reflected in its mirror-like surface. Passing from the bridge by the road leading along on the right by Duck Pond, we mount a steep ascent, and in time reach the top of Blackstrap Hill, the highest land in the immediate vicinity of Portland. This elevation, which is in West Falmouth, is now coming into vogue as a place for tourists to visit. It is one of the most favored spots in New England. Steps have been taken for laying out cottage lots and fitting up rooms for summer boarders to occupy early next season, which is all that is needed to crowd this lovely spot with summer visitors. The old monument on the hill here, is a conspicuous object from the islands, and is said to be the first landmark seen from approaching vessels. If instead of taking the right hand road we turn into the low road on the left, we may enjoy a very pleasant drive along a secluded road which borders the river. At a point on the road near Cumberland Mills there was, a few years ago, an extensive land- sink — several acres of high land subsiding into the clayey foundation which was forced out into the bed of the river, changing its course. This sink is a natural phenomenon well worthv the inspection of the curious as well as the geologist. At Cumberland Mills is a prosperous village, built up by the paper mill, which improves the water-power there. The return to the city may be made by the Saccarappa road, thus completing a wide circuit. Old Orchard Beach.

The most important sea-side resort in the vicinity of Portland, and one of the most famous summer watering-places in the country, is Old Orchard Beach. It is eleven and three-fourths miles south from Portland on the Western Division of the Boston and Maine Railroad, and between the two places the road runs through a semi-aqueous region, crossing marsh, river, and creek. For several miles before the station is reached the road skirts the sea-shore, aftbrding views of Scarboro', Pine Point, Prout's Neck, and Stratton Island. Old Orchard Station, and the hotels and residences in its immediate vicinity, are near the centre of the famous beach, the houses being located along

the shore and immediately back from it.

This famous beach, one of the finest in the world, and now one of the most frequented watering places in New England, is nine miles long from Pine Point to the Saco River. It is evenly inclined and perfectly safe, there being no deceptive holes or rocks. Even at high tide there is ample room for two carriages abreast, and at low tide it is one of the widest and grandest driving and promenade avenues to be found anywhere, being from five hundred to six hundred feet in width. It lies in a deep' inden- tation of the shore, forming nearly a semi-circle. On the right, Fletcher's Neck makes one arm, extending far out into the sea, at the mouth of the Saco, dotted with the white buildings of" the pool " at its extremity. On the left, the other arm of the semi-circle is formed by Proufs Neck, sweeping out into the sea, with Stratton's Island off against it. Between these two encircling points sweeps the grand beach, smooth as a floor, hard almost as a pavement, with the waves breaking along its whole extent in never- ceasing foam and roar. The beach is the shore of Saco Bay, which, from Prout's to Fletcher's Neck, is five miles across, and about three miles deep, and the curve of the beach is almost a semi-circle. Seated directly on the beach, and protected from the surges in storms by low sea- walls, built of wood in most cases, are many hotels, boarding-houses, and residences, with public or private bathing establishments attached. These houses are between the beach and a street which runs parallel to it, the railroad skirting this street for several miles. From the doors of some of these hotels one can almost step into the sea when the tide is up. On the heights back from the shore several large hotels, a number of smaller ones and many private boarding-houses are situated among the fine groves which cover all the country in the vicinity. About half a mile from the beach with a separate railroad are the grounds of the Methodist Camp-Meeting Association where meetings are held almost continually 148 POBTLAND AND VICINITY.

during the season. These grounds are situated in the midst of an evergreen grove, where a natural hollow forms a noble amphitheater, capable of seating seven thou-and persons. Here seats are placed beneath the trees, with a grand stand for the preachers, which commands the whole ground. Around this amphitheater a " camp-meeting city" has grown up, laid out in avenues lined with neat little cottages. There is abundance of fresh water on the grounds, and the place is the most extensive and popular camp-meeting ground in the countrv. The National Camp-Meeting and the National Temperance Camp-Meeting are held here in the month of August; and also, at a later season, theMethodist District Camp-Meeting. The camp-meeting association was organized in 1873. A fine Methodist Church now stands near the upper entrance to the grounds. A horse-car railroad was put in operation from Old Orchard to Saco and Biddeford in June, 18SS, and affords access to the camp ground and the various localities back from the beach. The cars start from the railroad station, proceed directly up the hill, then turn to the left past the Old Orchard House, with the Ocean House on the right. Just beyond, on the right, we pass the town High School building and the Kpiscopal chapel, St. John's by the Sea. The Revere House next looms up, on a high elevation, and near by are the remains of the Central Park Tower which has been made into a pretty cottage. The cars now pass the entrance to the camp ground, and proceeding onward turn a sharp angle to the right, pass along the upper side of the grounds and the Methodist Church there situated. In this neighborhood are manv cottages on all sides of the camp grounds, and the land is covered with fine groves of trees. Special localities have been given destinctive names, among them being Cot-

tage Grove Park, a cluster of pretty summer residences among the trees ; Fern Park, a forest of hard wood and evergreen trees, made into a park in 1864, covering a large area contiguous to Cottage Grove ; and Central Park on the southeast side of the Old Orchard road before the campground is reached. This entire tract is called the Highlands from its elevation, and commands extensive view of the beach, the sea, Ocean Park, Ba-, View, and the surrounding country for miles. Beyond the camp ground the horse-cars run through a beautiful country, the road on either side being lined with groves of hard woods and evergreen. After riding for two miles or more the spires and buildings of Saco and Biddeford come in sight, making a beautiful picture. The road then runs through the shady streets of Saco, across the river into the business streets of Biddeford, making altogether a charming ride of between five ftnd six miles from Old Orchard that will more than repay any visitor to take. The Orchard Beach Railroad runs trains with open cars, from the Boston and Maine station, along the beach, to the Saco River, a distance of several miles, commanding fine views of the ocean and of the surf breaking on the beach. The portion of the beach beyond Old Orchard has always been known locally as Ferry Beach. The first station is Ocean Park, the Free Baptist camp ground. The section from the beach to the Boston and Maine Railroad at the end of the grove, is being thicklv filled in with cottages. A large Temple has been built for the meetings, and three hotels furn- ish ample accommodations — Ocean Park House, opposite the station. Billow House, on the beach, and Granite State House, between the station and the Temple. A short distance beyond Ocean Park, the railroad crosses Goose Fair Brook, which

is the dividing line between Old Orchard and Ferry Beach. The next station is the

Bay View House, a large hotel, the summer home of Rev. M. J. Savage and Har- riet Beecher Stowe. There are also many elegant cottages in the neighborhood. We next stop at Ferry Beach Park, which has been fitted up by the Boston and Maine Rail- road into walks, rustic seats, and pavilions for amusements, making one of the most PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 149

delightful and comfortable picnic groves in the state. The Ferrv Park House, Mr. Thomas B. Hough, proprietor, is situated near by. Just beyond Ferry Beach Park is Camp Ellis, the terminus of the road at the mouth of the Saco River, where the trains connect with steamer Samuel E. Spring which conveys passengers across the river to Biddeford Pool, where are two summer hotels, the Mansion and Seaview Houses. This trip forms a delightful excursion. It can be varied by making the trip to Saco by the Boston and Maine Railroad, then down the Saco River to Biddeford Pool and Camp Ellis, and return to Old Orchard by the railroad. The history of Old Orchard as a summer resort dates from about 1S37, when boarders were entertained at the farm-house of Mr. E. C. Staples. The fame of the resort spread from that time, and the annually increasing crowds of visitors caused one hotel after another to be built, until the place attained its present dimensions. It has long been a custom with the people living in the vicinity to visit the beach on the 26th of June, for the purpose of bathing in the sea, which is supposed to possess special healing qualities on that particular day. The country people comedown to the shore in wagons and buggies and carryalls, — fathers, mothers, boys, girls, and babies, young folks, old folks, lovers, and young married couples, — all intent on enjoying the healing influence of the water. On these occasions the place presents a lively spectacle. Old Orchard was separated from Saco, February 20, 1883, and organized into a separate township. The first town meeting was held March 8, 1SS3. Since then, the streets have been improved and lighted, a fire department has been secured, and good schools and other necessities of an organized community introduced.

Old Orchard is abundantly supplied with hotels. The largest is the Old Orchard House. It stands on a high knoll, and has a sea frontage of three hundred feet, with an L one hundred feet deep, and is four and five stories high, finished throughout with modern improvements. Another large house is the Hotel Fiske, which is right on the edge of the beach, and has room for 300 guests. Other large hotels are the Sea Shore House, the Lawrence House, the Montreal House, and the Hotel Belmont.

Facing south on the Atlantic Ocean, and east on Old Orchard ave-

nue, is the Sea Shore House, a fine, large hotel, the most centrally located

at Old Orchard Beach. It is one of the best appointed houses on the Maine coast, having accommodations for 300 guests, and is fitted up with modern conveniences in the best style. A supply of pure water is constantly obtained from the famous Indian Spring. For those who are too deli- cate for surf bathing hot salt water baths are provided in the house, and there are also convenient and commodious dressing-rooms for surf bathers under the direct management of the hotel. The table, as in past seasons, is supplied with the best the market aflbrds. A good orchestra, Professor Grimmer's is constantly engaged.

There is an excellent livery and boarding stable in connection with the house, the drainage and sanitary arrangements are perfect, and in all respects the house is first- class. The proprietor, Mr. F. G. Staples, gives his personal attention to all details. 150 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. thereby assuring the guests of the very best care. The house has a very large dining- room, capable of seating 250 guests, and its walls are finely decorated.

The Hotel Belmont, Old Orchard Beach, has been much improved this present season, now has accommodations for 150 guests, and is inferior to no hotel in convenience and comfort. In the past this house has had an excellent reputation, and with

these improvements it will no doubt even surpass its former record. The house is sup. plied with pure spring water by the Old Orchard Aqueduct Company, and the drainage and sanitary arrangements are perfect. The location is unrivalled, as the house is

seated directly on the sea wall, and as wide hallw.iys run completely through it, draughts of cool sea air sweep its corridor even on the warmest days. This feature, in connection with others, insures perfect ventilation. The sleeping apartments are large, airy, and well lighted, and from every room a wide expanse of sea and land is visible. Broad piazzas encircle the house, affording a delightful promenade, and at night they are illuminated by electric lights. The house is provided with gas, speaking tube, electric bells, and all modern improvements. A fine music room is on the first Hoor.

The cuisine is unexcelled, and the whole house is under the care of Mr. George F. Holbrook, who will see that it maintains the excellent reputation it has won. The hotel will not close until October ist.

Commanding a fine view of the grand beach, one of the very best hotels at Old Orchard is the " Lawrence," situated on the sea wall. It is quite a distance removed

from any other house, and is surrounded by spacious lawns. Here the summer sojourner can enjoy all the comforts and conveniences of a well-appointed home, combined with the advantages of a first-class hotel. The house is supplied throughout with clear

spring water in abundance. The sanitary arrangements have been attended to in all their details, and are as perfect as modern appliances can render them. Many improve-

ments have been made the present season, and no expense has been spared to fit the house in such a manner as to contribute to the comfort and enjoyment of guests. In everv respect the cuisine is first-class, and great care is exercised to provide for the table the best in the market. The opportunities for bathing, for fishing, for driving, or for any other sea-shore amusement, are excellent, as every one knows, at Old Orchard, and at the Lawrence every facility and assistance is given guests in securing and indulging in whatever recreation their taste may desire. It is the aim of the proprietor, Mr. John H. Home, to make this well-appointed and convenient house a popular place of resort for those who desire the comfort of a well-regulated home; and the annual return of its guests testify to the fact that in these particulars, success has crowned his efforts. The house has accominodations for one hundred guests, and the terms are reasonable, $12 to $20 per week, according to location of the rooms.

The Montreal House, Old Orchard Beach, has been newly fitted up this season, and an addition extending toward the water has been constructed, thus more than doubling the capacity of the hotel, and rendering it a first-class house in every respect. It is seated on the sea-wall, and most of the rooms command a view of the beach for nearly

its whole length of ten miles. From the windows can also be seen Wood's Island,

with its lighthouse, the Pool, Front's Neck, and the luany islands that dot Saco Bay. A broad piazza encircles the house on every side. Invalids find the house most admir. ably located for the enjoyment of the refreshing and cool sea breezes. The facilities here for surf-bathing are the best on the beach, and are perfectly safe for children. For comfort, convenience, and everything that goes to make a sea-shore hotel enjoyable, the Montreal House is excellent, as every detail is under the especial care of the hostess, Mrs. A. B. Blanchard.

PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 153

A ride of four hours from Portland will carry the traveler to the famous Notch of the White Mountains, through some of the most sublime scenery in the country. This railroad is peculiarly a Portland enterprise, and designed to open a new and shorter route to the great West, which result will undoubtedly now be realized since the road was leased to the -Maine Central, by vote of the citizens of Portland, Angust 2, 1888. It extends from Portland by way of Sebago Lake and the valley of the Saco River, through the Notch of the White Mountains, thence via St. Johnsbury, Ver- mont, through the Lamoille and Missisquoi Valleys to the foot of Lake Champlain. It was a bold project to push a railway through the narrow gateway of the White

Mountains, but under the energetic management of General Samuel J. Anderson, President of the company, and the engineering skill of John F. Anderson, Esq., Chief

Engineer, it has been successfully accomplished, and the enterprise has opened up one of the most attractive pleasure-routes in the country. Indeed we know of no other railroad, of similar length, which commands such romantic and beautiful views. The White Mountains, with all their stupendous scenery, are brought within a day's excursion of Portland, so that parties leaving in the morning can visit the Notch and arrive home at an early hour in the evening. From Portland to Sebago Lake, a distance of about seventeen miles, the road runs through the fine farming towns of Deering, Westbrook, Windham, Gorham, and Standish, and there is no other railroad running out of the city which in the same distance passes through so much beautiful scenery. Orchards, green fields, and patches of forest diversify the landscape, which stretches away with undulating surface, everywhere showing signs of fertility and cultivation. The falls on the Pre- sumpscot add an interesting feature to [he scene ; and in Windham a glimpse is caught of the old brown farm-house in which Governor John A. Andrew was born. Sebago Lake is a fine sheet of water, fourteen miles in length by eight in width. The road skirts the shore, and at the station a steamer is in readiness to take passengers across the lake and through the tortuous winding of Bongo River,— a charming sail, — into the lock, and up the Bay of Naples into Long Pond, where the steamer lands at the thriving village of Bridgton, whence a ride of eight miles takes one to the summit of Pleasant Mountain, a sightly elevation commanding wide views of the mountains and the sea. In the pleasure season one may go as far as Bridgton or Harrison, take dinner at one of the hotels and return to Portland the same day. This is one of the most charming short pleasure-routes in New England. Continuing on the rail from Sebago Lake we soon strike across to Saco River, and ride up the valley to Hiram, where the Great Falls of the Saco, seen from the cars, present a grand spectacle; thence through Fryeburg, a beautiful village, famous for the battle with the Indians on the shores of Lovewell's Pond, and which attracts many summer visitors ; on again, to North Conway, with its lovely intervales and magnificent views of the White Mountains; through upper Bartlett, a beautiful basin amid the hills ; and so into the Notch, where the valley narrows to a gorge, and the road climbs the mountain side far above the river, now dwindled to a brook. The nine miles from Bemis Station to the Crawford House in the Notch present a panorama of mountain scenery of unequalled grandeur. The valley of the Saco here narrows into a rounded trough, one side of which is formed by the long wall of Mount Willey, and the other by the corresponding wall of Mount Webster. Far up on the side of Mount Willey a shelf has been cut, and along this the road climbs at a grade of one hundred and sixteen feet to the mile. One is astonished to see how easily the ascent is overcome. But two buttresses block the way — Frankenstein Cliff and Mount Willard. They seem to stand out defiantly, forbidding farther approach, but the train, 154 POliTLANl) ASl) VICiyiTY.

glides around them, through deep rock cuts, and entering the gateway of the Notch, reaches the level table-land where the waters divide. The ride along this narrow shelf is a novel experience in railway travel. Far above rises the steep, bare wall of Mount Willey, ever threatening to send down earth and rocks to block the way. Crossing the track of the grand slide of fearful memory, which overwhelmed the Willey family, you think of what might happen again. Here

and there the steep mountain wall is gashed by the beds of tumbling brooks, which seem for a passing moment to open a glimpse into the heart of the mountain. Looking out on the other side of the cars they seem to overhang the deep, wooded valley, far down beneath the foliage of which the Saco speeds on its course, and the old stage-road climbs upward to the gateway of the Notch. You catch glimpses of the Willey House and of the huts of the railway laborers far below. But the grand feature

of this outward view is the stupendous wall of Mount Webster rising just across the

narrow valley and hemming it in with its apparently inaccessable heights. This long bare wall, so seamed and gashed, so dark and frowning, so huge in its bulk, so massive

and immovable, is the tremendous feature of the scene. Its long sky-line points to nothing and makes one wonder what lies beyond. It seems to cut you off from an upper and inaccessible world. The view of Frankenstein Cliff, especially in the autumn, when the mountain slopes ure clothed in all the brilliant hues of the ripened foliage, is not less grand, and has more of beautv than the stern wall of Mount Webster. This is only to be seen to advantage as you go down the valley, from the rear platform of the train. As the cars cross the iron bridge, which spans a fearful gorge, the cliff looms up above the observer with awful front. The eye falls first upon the forestgrowth about its base, which in the autumn glows with color like a bank of roses. Above this beautiful mass of color, and

in strong contrast to it, rises the sheer precipice, a perpendicular wall of dark rock, fur- rowed and grim, Avith a crown of illuminated trees upon its head. But as the train moves on, and the cliff recedes, you see another wall, above and beyond the first, also fringed along its summit with brilliant hues. Thus the cliff grows in magnitude and grandeur as you recede from it, until at last a turn in the road shuts it from your view. But here comes in another grand feature of this mountain scenery. The summit of Mount Washington is now seen, covered with snow, a great white dome rising clear against the blue sky. Cries of wonder and delight greet its appearance, and this spectacle is alternately hidden and revealed, until the train reaches Glen Station, where you bid adieu to its grandeur and settle down quietly for the homeward ride. The distance from Portland to the Crawford House is eighty-seven miles, and to Fabyans ninety-one miles. TO THE INTERIOR OF THE STATE BY THE MAINE CENTRAL.

This combination of railroads commands all parts of Maine, the I'ortland and Kennebec line running through Brunswick (the seat of Bowdoin College) to Augusta, the capital of the State, and the upper towns on the Kennebec as far as Skowhegan; the Penobscott line extending through Lewiston, one of the le.iding manufacturing cities of Maine, and Waterville to Bangor, and from there the system continues, embracing what was formerly the Kuropcan and North American Railroad, but now an integral part of the Maine Central, until Vanccboro is reached, where connections are made with the New Brunswick Railway for St. John and Halifax, N. S. At Bangor connection is made with the Bangor and Piscataquis Railroad, which gives approach to the woods of Northern Maine. By this railroad system and its connections, the whole interior of the State of Maine is opened up to the tourist, and access given to PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 155

famous resorts on the sea shore and among the lakes of our Northern forests. Maine is rich in grand scenery, in hunting and fishing resorts, as well as in breezy sea-side retreats, which are yearly attracting an increasing number of visitors. By way of Bath, you may reach the beautiful Boothbay Harbor, with its outlying resorts, Squir- rel, Mouse, and Capitol Islands, distant Monhegan and ancient Pemaquid. To Mount Desert, the popular watering place, which combines the attractions of mountains and sea shore, there is a new route, opened in 1S84, composed of a railroad from Bangor to Mt. Desert Ferry, and thence by steamer to Bar Harbor, a distance across of six or seven miles. By the " back route " from Portland you may reach Lake Maranacook, fifty-seven

miles from Portland. This beautifu 1 sheet of water has been developed by the Maine Central into a delightful resort for excursion parties and aquatic sports. Five steamers ply on the lake this season, with a countless number of row and sail boats. From Bangor one may proceed by rail to Moosehead Lake, the great fishing resort of Maine, or by way of the European and North American Division, and connecting lines, to the great forest-land of Aroostook; or still again, if one desires to see the very end of " Down-East," he may proceed to the Maritime Provinces, and visit St. John, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island. At the beautiful village of Farmington, the terminus of the Farmington Branch which connects with the upper main line at Leeds junction, he may take the Sandy River Railroad for Phillips, and thence by stage to the far- famed Rangeley Lakes, a wonderful water-system in the heart of our Northern forests. To all these, and other attractive points, summer access is made easy by round trip excursion tickets, sold from June ist to September 30th, and good for a return passage until November ist. POBTIiAND AND ROCHESTER RAILROAD.

The Portland and Rochester Railroad opens a new and direct route from Portland to New York, by way of Rochester to Nashua, N. H., connecting there with the line to Worcester, Mass., and thence direct to New York, saving many miles of travel between Portland and the great metropolis. This line is one of the most prominent and popular railroad enterprises with the business men of Portland, and affords many pleasant and favorable points for excursions along its route, which passes through the villages of

Merrill's Corner, Saccarappa, and Gorhani ; crosses the Saco River, and runs through Waterboro' to Alfred, near which pleasant village is a Shaker settlement; thence to Rochester, N. H., where it connects with the Dover and Winnepesaukie Railroad, running to Alton Bay. Saccarappa and Cumberland Mills, twin villages of the town of Westbrook, located on the line of the Portland and Rochester Railroad, are among the most rapidly growing and prosperous manufacturing villages of Maine; and the town of Westbrook, of which these villages are the business centre, in 1871 had a population of 2,790, which had increased to 3,987 in 1S80, and at present is estimated at 6,500, and Westbrook will probably be the next town in the State to apply for a city charter. At Cumberland Mills the leading business industry is the extensive paper mills of 8. D. Warren & Com- pany large manufacturers of magazine and book papers, who turn out about forty tons of paper daily, employing 700 to 750 hands, with a steadily increasing business. Saccarappa has the only silk factory in the State, the Haskell Silk Company, who make an excellent quality of block silks, and the place is noted for the great variety of its growing industries. Among the latest is the New England Furniture Company, who commenced business January i, 188S, with a saw mill to cut out their own stock. Foster & Brown, machmists, moved into extensive new quarters in December, and G. H. Ray- 156 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. mond has fitted up their old shop for making mouldings and house material, in addition to his foundry and wood shop. S. D. Warren & Company put in a large, solid stone, and erected a large mill building, which is leased to W. R. Dana i: Company, for making white and colored warps and grain bags, and here is located the electric light station for lighting the two villages. Springyale and Sanford, in Old York County, are flourishing yillages, on the line of this railroad. At Springvale, Messrs. Thomas Goodall & Sons have built up a great industry in making fine plush and mohair goods- S. B. Emery is a large furniture dealer, and W. A. Allen has built up an extensive printing building establishment here; J. B. Clark has a large for a steam saw mill and machine shop, and electric light station. Springvale is named from a spring of very pure water, having a large flow; its population is now 1,450, double that of eight ye. irs ago. Six miles below Sanford village there is an unimproved water power with a fall of sixty feet.

East Rochester, the next large village west of Sanford and Springvale, is a flourishing place with a large water power, used by the Woolen Manufacturing Company, Fogg & \'inal, boot and shoe makers, A. Towle, carriage maker, A. W. Richards, steam saw and planing mill, and other thriving business enterprises. Rochester Village, a few

miles west, is a growing business centre, noted for its great railway facilities, as railway lines run out from here in six different directions, which adds greatly to the present and prospective prosperity of the place. The present population of the town is nearly eight thousand and about one hundred new buildings were recently erected here. The Cocheco River runs through Rochester, and on its excellent and extensive water-power privileges man^' large and successful manufactories of various kinds are located and operated. THE GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. The Grand Trunk Railway of Canada, connects Portland with the principal towns and cities of Canada, and runs through the states of Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, and through to the provinces of Quebec and Ontario, to Montreal, a distance of 297 miles. It probably passes through as great a variety of scenery, as any railroad on the American Continent. Beginning on the picturesque coast of Maine, then passing through the grand vistas of the White Mountains, across rivers, through charming villages, wild forests, and along the shores of lakes, it emerges finally on the banks of the majestic St. Lawrence. In connection with the Chicago and Grand Trunk Railway it forms the only continuous line under one management from Portland to Chicago. It is a direct route to many of the most popular mountain and lake resorts including Poland Springs, Rangeley Lakes, Niagara Falls, and the beautiful Thousand Island. This road was built in 1S53, put Portland in communication with the vast grain-growing regions of the west, and opened a new route to the White Mountains, aflTording access to glens and gorges, which up to that time, had been but little visited. In

Maine it runs through a number of pleasant villages, including North Yarmouth, New Gloucester, Mech.i-nic Falls, South Paris, and Bryant's pond, to Bethel, a place of great natural beauty, seated amid the hills, which attracts great numbers of summer boarders; thence through fine scenery, along the Androscoggin, to Gorham, N. II. The mountain is ascended in carriages over a well-constructed road. From the summit one may descend by the railroad, on the other side, to Fabyan's; or, returning by the Glen House, may pass through the wild Pinkham Notch, amid the most stupendous mountain scenery, to Glen Station, on the Portland and Ogdensburg. Two express trains run each way daily from Portland to Montreal, with sleeping and parlor cars attached. This is undoubtedly the best route to reach the chief cities and towns of Ontario and Qiiebec. The Strangers' Guide.

P0IMT3 OF INTEREST.

Observatory. 138 Cimgress, Muujoy Hill. Kunir-ni rrinut-uutlr-, east end Couj^ress. Ifniversalist. WVsterii Pi-' Mueii -dp, west end city First TTuiversalist, 132 High, liriiiiili.Lll Hill west era jiortion or city. Muitju.s Hil". .-ItvatiouoverlookiuK the harbor and islaudrf. at eiist eurt city. Board of Trade Rooms. 26 Exchange. Other Denominations. Cumberland RowiuK Association Building, Rail- road Wharf. Fish Exchange, l?2 Commercial. Chapel, 81 Oak, near Prospect. House. Merrill's Wharf. Friends' Dirieo Boat Club Advent Church. Mechanic Hall, Cougresa. 26 ExchauKe. Second Merchants Exchange. Williston Chapel, 247 Danforth. Portland Yacht Olub House. Merchants Wharf. Church of Christ, Sjuritualists, Congress. Portland Club, 58**?j Congress; Country Club 457,Ht House. Great Diamond Island. Maine Historical Society. City Buildin^r. HALLS.

Art Building, entrance Arcana, 379M Congress. Portland Society of Art. and Navy Union. Congress. from 621 Congress, or 8 Deering. Army 499M rear 625 Congress. Portland Society of Natural History, 24 Elm. Art Building, Carleton, Lafayette and Cumberland. Custom House, lt)5 Commercial. City Hall, ^^l Congress. Post Office, corner Middle and Exchange. Cumberland Club, corner Free and High. Congress, 42(i}*j Congress. County Commissioners Court, City Building. Cushman's, 4843^ Congress. CHURCHES. Fraternity. 14 Free. Good Templers. 457V. Congress. Grand Army, n'ih^ Congress. Harmon, llul Congress. First, 353 Congress. Kavanaugh, 3!.i5 Congress. Free Street. 144 Free. Knights of Pythias. 49iiV; Congress. Plymouth Free, tilb Congress. Maine Historical Society. City Building. Free Baptist, Town House Corner, Cape Elizabeth. Masonic, 85 Exchange. Mechanics, 519 Congress. Catholic. Mercantile, 439 Cougi'ess. Immaculate Conception, 190 Cumberland. Motley. 607>^ Congress. St. Dominic's, 78 State. Municipal Court, City Building, 31 Myrtle. Natural History Society, 24 Elm. Conoregattonal. Odd Fellows. 439 Congress. Second Pariah, 373 Congress. Probate Court, City Building. High Street, 117 High. Rossini, 8U Exchange. State Street, 1&7 State. Second Advent, 463>^ Congress. Newbury Street. Hi Newbury. Sons of Teraperan'^e, 88i*i Exchange. Turuverein. 49;i>5 Congress. Free. Union. 14b ,,- , and, MnUlle.,, Bethel, 2«3 Fore. United States Court-i. corner Exchange 439 Congress. Williston. 32 to 38 Thomas. Young Mens' Christian Association, Woodford's, in Deerins". LifcTonia. supplied by Dea. Abbott. Portland. WHARVES. First Congregational, Cape Elizabeth. Episcopal. Atlantic, foot of India. St. Luke's Cathedral, i.^; State. Berlin, from 3^4 Commercial. St. Stephen's, 667 Conwress. Berlin Mills, from 4U4 Commercial. St. Paul's, 281 Congress. Boston & Maine Railroad, from 348 Commercial. Brown's, from 322 Commercial. Burnham. from 66 Commercial. Central, from 192 Couunei cial. Commercial, from 152 Commercial. Afethodist. Custom House, from 96 C^ommercial. Deake. from 448 Commercial. Chest nut Street, 9 Chestnut. Franklin, 36 Commercial. Pine Street. 9 Pine. from Gait, 18 Commercial. Congress Street. 126 Congress. from Elizabeth. Gas Company's, foot of Clark- Cape Elizabeth Depot, Cape East Grand Trunk Freight Depot. Knightville..Cotta>re Road, Capo Elizabeth. Grand Trunk. Great Eastern, at Fish Point. Vaughan Street. 191 Vaughan. Hobson, from 39u Commercial. West End. Harrison Hall, 1101 CouBress, Commercial. Woodford's, Pleasant, corner South Holyoke, from 418 Long, from 174 Commercial. Ferry Village, Hiyh, South Portland. Commercial. Island Church, Peak's Island. Merchants, from 310 Merrill, from 254 Commercial, Bowery Beach. adjoining works. Prcsbi/terian Portland Company's, Portland Pier, from 132 Commercial. First Presbyterian, Williams Hall. 379>^ Congress. Railroad, from 468 Commercial. Randall * Mc.Mlisler, from 76 Commercial. Swedenborffian, Richardson, from 278 Commercial. New Jerusalem, 175 High. State Street, from 448 Commercial. Sturdivant, from 426 Commercial. Unitariaji. First Parish, 427 Congress. 15S PORTLAND AND VICINITY.

FIBE DEPAKTUEirT. Portland Wheel Club, Beaver Block, 496>< Congress. Portland Yacht Club, Merchants' Wharf. Cumberland County Medical Society 18S Middle- Machitronne Steamer, No. 1, £57 Conf^ess. Maine Genealogical -Society. City Hiltldiug. Portland Steamer, No. 2, 134 CouifreBS. Maine Historical Society. City Building. Cuiiib.Tlaij.1 sl.-auiiT. No. 3, 178 Brackett. Portland Institute and public Library, City Build- r:ilii;..iith St. iiuier. No. 1. 167 SprlUlf.

Ilk and Ladder, No. 1, 99 India.

M : 1 Ladder. No. 2. I:i3 Market. uhall H.-k and La

Custom House, 312 Fore, 106 Commercial. MANUFACTURING ESTABLISH- Internal Kevenue, Custom House. Marine Ho8j)ital Service. Custom House, MENTS AND COBPORATIONS, steamboat Inspectors, Custom House, .shippuig Commissioner, 39:i Fore. EnKineer Department, 637 Congress, room 14. Andro.scoifirin Pulp {;o.. :i5*K'oiiKress Liglit House Establishment, Custom House. Atkinson House Kiirnlshinu- Co! Signal Service. 57 Exchange. Atwood I/ea

' rtrie T^Kfht Co., of Maine, 13 Plum. Associated Charities. City Bulldini--, Hooni 18. kint- Co.. rsi >.: Exchan(?e. Brotherhood of Locomotive Engineers, No. 40, 154 Congress. I' 'i I'll - ' ' . ! ' 13 Market Square. Brotherhood of Locomotive Fireman, No. 4, Engi- neers' Hall.

Frank) ! r ! Citizen's Mutual Kclelf Soiuety, 26 Exchange- Oi.lt lijn, I War. I Commercial Travelers Association, 43 Myrtle. Harpswtli Nte;iiiih Diet Mission Fraternity Hooms, 14 Free. Independent Tow) . I7y Commercial.„ Female Orphan Asylum, 62 State. Merchants' Marine Railway. i'WCommercial liosworth Post, G. A. R., No. 2. 665 Si Congress. Mutual tlnion Teleirrapli Co., .S)M Fore Home for the Aged Men, 117 Danforth. New En;,-land Telephone and Teleg-raph Co., 24 Ex- Home for the Aged Women, 64 to 68 Emery. ;hani.'e. Maine Charitable Mechanics Association, Mechan- Now Glouceater Packin*r Co., 31 V; Exchange. ics' Hall. Nortli Turner Packinic Co.. Slhi Exehange. Maine General Hospital, Arsenal. Otis Falls Pulp Co.. 390 Ccuiirross. Maine State Reform School, Cape Elizabeth. Patron's Co-operative Corporation, 309 Commer- Martha Washington Society, 47 St. Lawrence. ;ial. Portland Army and Navy Union, Union Hall, 499X People's Ferry Co.. Lonir Wharf. Congress. Poland Paper Co ,'24 Plum. Portland Dispensary, 4«4XI Congress. Portland and Cape Elizabeth Ferry Co., Custom Portland Female Provident Association. Souse Wharf. Portland Fraternity, 14 Free. Portland Cement Pipe and Stove Co., 34 Plum. Portland Longshoremen's Benevolent Society, S74 Portland Company, 68 Fore. Fore. Portland Pry t)oek 167 Commercial. Portland Plasters' Union, 19i^ Market Square. Portland Gas Liirht Co., S.'i Exchange. Portland School for MeiUcal Instruction, 188 Middle. Portland Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Ani- Portland Lloyds. 42 Kxchanire mals. 31 Free. Portland Mutual I'lshiug Insurance Co., 138 Com- Portland Widows' Wood Society, City Building, 8 mercial. Mvrtle. Portland Net and Twine Co., 14 Lontr Wharf. Portland Young Men's Christian Association, Far- Portland PublishiUK Co., i*7 ExchanKe. rington's Block. Portland Sate De|iusit Co., 37 Exchaoge. Scandinavian Society. 2.39 Federal. Portland UoUinif Mill, '24 Plum. The Portland Seaman's Friend Society. Portland SmeltinK Works, 3)^', ConKTesa. The Provident Aid Socii'ty, 98 Exchange. Co., Portland Star Match 69 West Commercial. Woman's Auxiliary to the Young Men's Christian Portland Stove Foundry Co., Kennebec foot of Association. Myrtle. Woman's Christian .Association, Home, 'i6 Spring. Portland Street Sprinklinsf Co., 97 Cross.

r'i7 Portland 'I'lunt Co . KxL-hauge. Portland Uiit.i c.i . :i:; Plum. STEAMSHIP AND STEAMBOAT Sebaifo \V 1 lioaril To., 3W Contcress. Sewall Kal.ty Csr IKiitiUK Co., 185 Middle. COMPANIES. Unibagotf Pulp Co., 3'.*e ConKrese. ('asco Bay Steamboat Company, Custom House Wharf. Union Whart Co.. '2411 Commercial. International Steamship Company, Kallroad AVestbrook ManufacturiuK Co., It) Central Wharf. Wharf. Western Union Teletrrapu Co., '26 Exchange, 484 Maine Steamship Company. Franklin Wharf. ConKresa. I'ortland, Mt. Desert and Machlss Steamboat Com- Wlnslow Packing Co., 31>ii Exchange. pany. 493 Commercial. Portlantl Steam Packet Company. Franklin Wharf. Portland and Boolhbay Steamboat Company, INSTITUTIONS- Kranklin Wharf. RAILROADS.

Boston /i Maine llallroad. Depot, 481 Commercial, and at Union station. Grand Trunk Railway. Depot, Commonial foot of clatlon, No. 7, 47X India. Maine Central Railroad. Depot, Union Station. J(fe. Portland & Ogdcnaburg llailroail. Depot, Union the Immaculate Conception, Station. Portland 4: Rochester Kallroad, Depot, foot of Pre- Portland Turnveroln, 483k, Cuugreas Portland Typographical Union, No. 86- Portland Railroad (Street Railway.) F. 0. BAILEY & CO.,

PORTLAND, ME.

Manufacturers and Dealers in Q>%% TQ>W,

and other Styles of

Tables and Sho^w^ Cases. AGENTS FOR Smith & Co., Cornhill, Boston. Union Desk Co., Boston. Hall's Safe and Lock Co., Cincinnati, Ohio. Howe Scale Co., Rutland, Vermont. Henry Tooemner Fine Scales, Philadelphia, Pa. Star Coffee Mills, Philadelphia, Pa- We make a specialty of Office Furniture, Safes and Show Cases, and our prices on all goods in our line are Bottom.

Seaa tP5 Descriptive Cafslpgue and !Price-I,ist,

H orse m Carriage Mart,

Nos. 30, 32 and 34 Plum St., PORTLAND, MAINK.

THIS Mart was established in 1S73, and is now the largest and best equipped Carriage Repository in New England. The proprietors

are Jobbers and Retail Dealers in all kinds of

Carriages, Sleighs, Harnesses, Robes,

Blankets and Outfits.

They are Manufacturers' Agents, and control the sale of the best goods in the market in their line of trade, carrying the largest assortment of the best value in their stock. HOTEL LIST.

OLD OB.CHAKD BEACH, ME. BOOTHBAY, ME.

. 60 ; $2 per day, Old Orchard House, E. C. Staples; ace. 600.

Ocean House, ace . 400. Weymouth ; House, Miss Weymouth ace. 60 ; 81.60 per day, $8 per week. 300; $3 per day, $U CUSHING'S ISLAND (PORTLAND HABBOB), ME.

FORT POPHAM, ME.

ham, aee. 73; $1 to $1.30 per day; $6 to $9 123; $3 toSS^ per week. $1 to $1.60 per

$1 to $1.50 per day, 86

LITTLE CHEBEAGtTE ISLAND (PORTLAND HARBOR), ME.

Montreal House, Mrs. A. B. Blanchard; ace. 60,

Revere House, L. A. Pitlshury; ace. 100; $2.60 per day $14 per week. LONG ISLAND (PORTLAND HAR- Staples Cottage, M. F. Porter; ncc. 60; $7 to $19 per week. BOR), ME.

Central Park House, occ. 30; $1 to $1.30 per day.

Llnwood House, Mrs. H. T. Lord: ace. SO; $2 per day, $10 per week.

Western, M. A. J. Staples; ace. 36; $8 to $12 per week. PEAK'S ISLAND (PORTLAND

Hotel Everett, J. M. Ryan; ace. 160; $2 to $3]>er day. HARBOR), ME. $10 to $16 per week. Chapman House, Miss May Chapman; ace. Ingleside Cottai;e, 100; $3 O. W. Holman; >cc. 60; $1.60 per to $2.60 per day, $1U to $16 week. day, $7 to $10 per week. i>er ace. 73; $1.60 to $3 BIDDEFOBD POOL, ME.

Mansion House, Mrs. Chris Hussey; ace. 30; $1 26 per day, $p per week.

Central Cottage, S. SklllinK's; ace. 90; $1.60to $3 per day, $8 to $10 i>er week. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 161

Oceanic House, Mrs. B. T. Sterling; aco. 60; $1.60 to $2 per day, $10 to $12 per week. Toronto Cottage, A. V. Ackley; ace. 30; $1.60 per West Point House, Ira C. Fobs; ace. 46; $8 to $10 day, $8 to $10 per week. per week

Checkley House, Ira Fobs; ; $10 to $12 per

Ocean Cottage. J. M. Kaler; ace. 60; $8 to $10 per

Spurwink House, George Mitchell ; ace. 12.

. 60; $1.60 to $2 SQUIRREL ISLAND, ME.

PINE POINT BEACH (SCARBOBO), ME. YORK BEACH, ME. 18; $2 per

Thompson, ace. 80 ; $2 per day, $8 to $12 per week.

PORTLAND, ME.

YORK HARBOR, ME.

SEBAGO, ME. CAFE ELIZABETH.

Lake View, A. K. P. Ward; ace. 30; $6 to $7 per per day, $10.60 week.

Maple Farm, A. A. Reed ; ace. 19 ; $4 to $5 per "week. Elm Cottag-e, J. C. Bsbb; ace. S4; $4 to $3 per week.

Douglas Farm, S. P. ; Doug-las ace. 18 ; $4 to $5 per week. FERRY BEACH, (OLD ORCHARD). Hig-hland Farm, J. P. Chadbourn; ace. 30; $4 to $5 Bay View House, Bay View. per week. Ocean Park House. Oeeau Park. Mountain House, Nathaniel Chadbourn: ace. 16; $4 to $5 per week. Billow House, Ocean Park. Granite State House, Ocean Park. SEBAGO LAKE, ME. Ferry Park House, Ferry Park.

SOUTH HARPSWELL, ME. Farm House, Z. S. Davis; ace. 20; $1 per day, $3 to 3 30; $1 to SCARBORO BEACH, ME. 162 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. DISTANCE TO rOPULAR RESORTS FltOM MAKKET SofARE.

To Front's Neck, bv wav of

FUOM CUSTOM HOUSE WHARF.

MILES. FL'F

Landing, . . To House Island, . . . . To Long Island 4 To Little Hog Island Land- To Clapboard Cove, ... 5 To Little Chebeague Landing, 7 Island, 10 To Peak's Island Landing, . To Jewell's .... To Cushing's Island Land- To Harpswell, 13 ing, ...... To Freeport, 14 To White Head Cove, To Crouch's Cove, Goose

To Evergreen Landing, . Island, 14 To Diamond Cove,

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

013 995 767 2

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