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The Pacific Northwest's Best Trips 3

The Pacific Northwest's Best Trips 3

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

Bandon 171 Bow 92‑3 A Banff National Park 335‑6 Brackendale 282‑3 Aberdeen 76 Bastion Square 343 Brandywine Falls Provincial accommodations 23, 352, 358 Battery Point Park 285‑6 air travel 23, 351 Lighthouse 258 Breitenbush Hot Springs 222 Alert Bay 312, 313 Bayocean Peninsula County breweries 18, 156, 261, Park 180 263, 344 Alice Lake 283 BC Forest Discovery Brick House Vineyards 187 Alpine Lakes Wilderness 102 Centre 293 Bridge Creek Wildlife Alpine Trail 229 Beacon Hill Park 343 Area 204 American Camp 86 Beacon Rock State Park 37 Bridge Meadows Trail 345 Anacortes 84‑5 Bear Meadow 122 Britannia Beach 282, 287 Aneroid Lake 212 beer, see breweries Anthony Lakes 204, 207 Belknap Hot Springs Lighthouse 273 Ape Cave 123‑4 233‑4, 235 Brohm Lake 283 Applegate Trail Interpretive Bellingham 138‑40, Brookings 172, 175 Center 239 143, 154‑5 brooms 148 Arch Trail 195 Bend 222, 225, 231, Burgess Shale World Art Off the Fence 301 235, 264‑5 Heritage Site 338 Artist Point 142 Big Spruce 179‑82 Burlington 106 Artist Ridge Trail 142 Big Tree Trail 309 bus travel 351 Ashford 111, 117 Gallery 341 business hours 354 Ashland 238, 243, 246‑7, bird‑watching 87, 180 Butchart Gardens 302 251, 262‑3 Birth of a Lake Trail 121 Astoria 40, 41, 80, 81, Black Lake 204 C 164, 174 Blackbird Island 157 Campbell River Museum 311 Audain Art Museum 286 Blue Basin Area 197 Cannon Beach 40, 41, 166, 174 Aurora 242 Blue Mountains 201‑7 Cant Ranch House 196‑7 Avenue of Giant Boulders 248 Bluff Trail 96 Cape Arago State Park 171 Azalea Park 172 Bonneville 36, 41 Cape Disappointment 39‑41, border crossings 150, 348‑9 78, 81 B Boswell 147‑8 Cape Kiwanda 182, 183 Babyfoot Lake 255 Botanical Beach 304, 305 Cape Lookout State Park Baker City 214, 217 Boulder Cave 114 180, 183 Bald Mountain Trail 203 Boulevard Park 155 Cape Lookout Trailhead 181

360 Cape Meares 179‑80 clamming 182 Cape Meares Lighthouse 179 Clark, William, see Lewis & D Cape Perpetua 169‑70 Clark Dalles, the 36, 41, 48‑9 Cape Trail 180 Clatsop County Jail 164 Dayton 132 Capilano Suspension Clay Meyers State Natural Deception Pass 94 Area at Whalen Island 183 Bridge 273 Dee Wright Observatory 231 car insurance 347 Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Depoe Bay 167 car rental 347‑8 Island 181‑2 Deschutes Brewery 261, 265 car sharing 351

Cle Elum 60 Deschutes Historical INDEX Carbon River entrance 116 Cleetwood Cove Trail 248 Museum 264

Carlton 187‑8, 191 climate 22 Desolation Peak 102 C-E Carmelis Goat Cheese Coalmine Hill 203 Devil’s Churn 169‑70 Artisan 322 coastal highways 10 Devil’s Punchbowl 167 cars, see driving Cobain, Kurt 76 Diablo Lake 106, 107 Carson Hot Springs 230 Resort 46‑7 Coldwater Lake 121 disabilities, travelers Cascade Lakes 230, 235 Columbia Gorge Discovery with 356‑7 Cascade Loop 101‑6 Center 36, 47 Columbia Hills Historical discount cards 358 Cascade Mountains 12 State Park 36 Domaine Drouhin 227‑35 Columbia River 33‑41, 164 Oregon 188 Washington 57‑64, 99‑107 17, Domaine Serene 188‑90 Cascadian Home Farm 106 43‑51 Douglas County Museum 250 Cathedral Grove 309‑10 Columbia River Maritime Drake Park 264 Cave Junction 256, 259 Museum 164 drinks 20, see also Cecil 202‑3 Coombs 310 breweries, wineries 36 Coos Bay 170‑1 driving 347‑50, 351‑2 cell phones 356 costs 23 291, 335 Centralia 120‑1, 125 Cottage Grove 240‑1 car rental 347‑8 Chain Lakes Loop 142 Cougar 124, 125 documents 347 cheese 93, 166, 179, 297, cougars 293 driver’s license 347 302‑3, 322 Coupeville 96, 97 emergencies 348 Chelan 102‑3 Cowichan Bay 292, 297 forest roads 206 Chemainus 293‑4 Cowichan Estuary Nature fuel 22, 280, 350 Chemainus Theatre Centre 292 insurance 347 Festival 294 craft beer, see breweries maps 349 children, travel with 21 Crater Lake 245, 246, road distances 349 China Beach (British 248, 251 road rules 350 Columbia) 304 craters 15 safety 206, 291, 350, 355‑6 China Beach (Oregon) 172 Crawford Bay 148 websites 350 Chinatown (Portland) 260 Crescent City 258, 259 Dundee 190, 191 Chinatown () 340 Creston 147, 151 Dutch influence 140 Chinatown (Victoria) 342 Creston Valley Wildlife Chinook Pass 114‑15 Area 148 chocolate 130, 311 Crystal Mountain 115 E Chuckanut Drive 12, 91‑4 Cumberland 310‑11, 313 eagles 106

361 Eastsound 87‑8, 89 Four Lakes Trail 283 Easy Pass 105 Fragrance Lake Trail 92 H Ebey’s Landing 95 Fraser Valley 274‑7 Haida Gwaii 325‑31 Ecola State Park 40, 166 French Beach 304 330 Eight Dollar Mountain 255 Friday Harbor 85, 89 Halfway 214, 217 Elbe 111 Front Street Park 156 Hall of Moss Trail 70 electricity 353 fruit 50, 102, 319 Harry Potter 148 elk 70 fuel 22, 280, 350 Hardman 203

INDEX Ellensburg 59, 65 Harmony Trail 123 Emerald Lake 338, 339 G Harrison Hot Springs 276, 277

E-H emergencies 22, 348 Gabriola Island 296 Hat Point 212 Emmons Vista 116 galleries 296 hay 61 EMP Museum 153 Haystack Rock 40, 166 Ganges 302 Enchanted Forest 220 Heather Meadows 142 gas 22, 280, 350 Enchantment Park 157 Heceta Head Lighthouse 167 340 Enterprise 211, 216 Heliotrope Ridge Trail 141 gay travelers 354 Eruption Trail 122 Hells Canyon 209‑17 Gearhart 164 Eugene 224, 225, 241, 243 Hells Canyon Overlook 212 Geologic Time Trail 195 Everett 101 Heppner 203, 207 Georgina Point Lighthouse 302 High Desert Museum F Giant Spruce Trail 170 222, 231 highlights 10‑19 Face Rock 171 Gibson Cave 203 Highway 35 49‑50 Fairhaven 92, 97, 155 Gibsons 294‑5, 297 Highway 101 163‑75 family travel 21 Glacier 141‑2, 143 Highway 199 253‑9 Federation Forest State Gold Beach 171‑2, 175 history 20 Park 116 Golden 338 Hoffstadt Bluffs Visitor ferries 349 Golden Spruce 328 Center 121, 125 Field 338, 339 Golden State Heritage Hoh Rainforest 70 Fire and Ice Trail 142 Site 250 Hood River 47, 51 Fisherman’s Wharf 343 Gold Hill 238, 250 Hope 276 Florence 170, 175 Goldstream Provincial Park Horseshoe Bay 280, 287 food 18, 20, 23, 353‑4 291‑2 hot springs 15 cheese 93, 166, 179, 297, gondolas 345 302‑3, 322 Granny View Vista 212 Belknap 233-4 fruit 50, 102, 319 Grants Pass 254‑5, 259 Columbia River 46‑7, 51 local products 355 Grave Creek 239 Harrison Hot Springs 276 oysters 81, 92‑3, 183 Grays Harbor McCredie 229 forest roads 206 Lighthouse 76 Radium Hot Springs 334-5 Fort Clatsop 40 Great Cats World Park 256 Terwilliger 234 Fort Dalles Museum 48‑9 274 Umpqua Hot Springs 248 Fort Langley 274‑5, 277 Grove of the Patriarchs Willamette National Fort Stevens State Park 80 Trail 113 Forest 234 Fossil 196 Gwaii Haanas National Park Humbug Mountain 171 fossils 12 Reserve 328 Hurricane Ridge 72

362 Kilby Historic Site 276 Lost Lake 47 I King Street Station 152 Lower Ape Cave Trail 123 Ilwaco 81 222, 224 Lummi Island 138, 143 Imnaha 212, 217 Kootenay Lake Ferry 148 Lynden 140 insurance 347 Kwisitis Visitor Centre 309 Lynn Canyon Park 274 internet access 22 Interstate 5, 237‑43 L M Interurban Trail 94 La Conner 94, 97 Manzanita 166 islands 19 La Grande 206, 207, 210, 216 Maple Pass Loop Trail 105 INDEX It’s a Burl Gallery 255 Lady Washington 76 maps 349

Lake Agnes 336 Maquinna Marine Provincial I-M J Lake Chelan 102‑3 Park 309 Jacksonville 238 Lake Cowichan 303‑4 Marble Canyon 335, 339 Japanese Garden 302 Lake Crescent 71, 73 Marblemount 106, 107 Jedediah Smith Redwoods Lake Cushman 72 Maryhill 35, 195 State Park 256, 258 Lake Louise 336, 339 Marymere Falls Trail 71 John Day 198, 199 Lake Marie 170 Masset 328‑30, 331 John Day Fossil Beds Clarno Lake Quinault 68‑70, 73 Mayne Island 302, 305 Unit 195 Lakeshore Trail 336 Mazama 103 John Day Fossil Beds Painted Lakeside Park 102‑3 McCredie Hot Springs 229 Hills Unit (Mitchell) 197, 199 McKenzie Bridge 234, 235 John Day Fossil Beds Sheep Lange Estate Winery & McKenzie River National Rock Unit 196-7 Vineyards 187 Recreation Trail 234 John Day region 12 Langley (Washington) 96, 97 McMenamins Old St Francis John Dellenbeck Trail 170 Langley (British Columbia) 275‑6 School 264 John Wayne Pioneer Trail 60 Larison Creek Trail 229 McMinnville 188, 191 Johnston Ridge Larrabee State Park 92 Meadow Loop Trails 72 Observatory 121‑2 Meares Beach 179‑82 Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Lava Canyon 124 Meares Island 309 Art 224 Leavenworth 101‑2, Joseph 211, 216 107, 156‑7 Medford 247, 251 Juan de Fuca Provincial lesbian travelers 354 Medicine Beach 301 Park 304 Lewis & Clark 33‑41 Mercer Island 63 Lewis & Clark Interpretive Merridale Estate Cidery 292 K Center 39 Methow Valley trails 103 Lewis & Clark National microbreweries, see breweries Kalmiopsis Wilderness 255 Historical Park 37 Miniature World 291 Kam Wah Chung State Lewis, Meriwether, see Lewis Mission Hill Family Estate 317 Heritage Site 198 & Clark Keils, Willie 77 Lime Kiln Point State Mitchell 197-8, 199 Kelowna 318, 323 Park 86 mobile phones 356 Kennewick 131, 134 Lincoln City 166‑7, 174 money 23, 354 Kerby 255, 259 Lithia Park 247, 262 Moraine Lake 336‑7 Kerouac, Jack 102 Long Beach 40, 78‑9, 81 Moran State Park 88, 89 337 Longmire 111‑12, 117 Moro 195 Kicking Horse River 338 Lopez Island 88, 89 Morrow County 203

363 Mosby Creek Bridge 241 North Bend 61 Pacific Rim Park Pass 309 motorcycles, see driving North Fork John Day Packwood 113, 117 mountains 21 Overlook 204 Paint Pots 335 Mount Hood Railroad 50 North Head Lighthouse Painted Cove Trail 197 39‑40, 78 Mt Bachelor 230 Painted Hills 197 North Umpqua Trail 248 Mt Baker 140-142 Paradise 112‑13, 117 Northern Exposure 60 Mt Baker Theatre 154 Parkdale 50, 51 Nutcracker Museum 156 Mt Constitution 88 Pasco 131, 134

INDEX Mt Finlayson 87‑8 Pearsony Falls 248 Mt Garibaldi 285‑6 O Peerless Hotel 263

M-Q Mt Hood 50, 51 Oakridge 229, 235 Pender Island 301‑2, 305 Mt Maxwell 303 Oceanside 180, 183 Pendleton 206, 207 Mt Rainer 109‑17 Ochre Ponds 335 Peter Iredale 80 Mt Rainier National Park 111 Ogopogo 322 Picture Gorge 198 Mt Rainier Scenic Ohanapecosh 113 Picture Lake 142 Railroad 111 Okanagan Lavender Farm Pike Place Market 153 Mt Si 60‑1 319, 321 Pillar Rock 37 Okanagan Valley 315‑23 Mt St Helens 119‑25 Pilot Bay lighthouse 148 Old Masset 330 Mt St Helens National Pioneer Courthouse Volcanic Monument 122 Ollokot Campground 214 Square 261 Mt Temple Viewpoint 336 Olympia 68, 73 Pioneer Square 152 Mt Washington Olympic National Park 17, plugs 353 Viewpoint 224 68, 72 Port Clements 327‑8, 331 Muddy Creek 124 Olympic Peninsula 67‑73 Port Orford 171, 175 46 opening hours 354 Port Townsend 72, 73 Museum of Northwest Art 94 Oregon Caves National Porteau Cove Provincial music 350 Monument 256, 259 Park 281 Oregon Coast Aquarium 167 Myrtle Creek Trail 256 Portland 26, 242, Oregon Dunes National 243, 260‑1 Recreation Area 170 Portland Women’s Forum 45 N Oregon Shakespeare Nahcotta 79‑80, 81 Festival 238 postal services 358 330 Oregon Trail Interpretive Potamus Point 204 Namgis Burial Grounds 312 Park 206 Powell River 297 Narada Falls 112 Oregon Vortex 238, 250 Prairie City 199 Natural Bridge Viewpoint 172 outdoor activities 20 Prehistoric Gardens 171 Neahkahnie Mountain 166 Outdoor Quilt Show 222 Prospect 247‑8 Nelson 148‑9, 151 oysters 81, 92‑3, 183 Prosser 130, 134 Netarts 180, 183 Oysterville 79‑80, 81 233 Netarts Bay 180, 183 public holidays 354‑5 Newberg 186, 191 P Newport 146‑7, 167, 174 Pacific City 182, 183 Q Nisqually entrance 111 Pacific Coast 75‑81 Quails’ Gate Winery 317, 323 Nk’Mip Cellars 317 Pacific Crest Trail 50, 60, Qualicum Beach 310, 313 Nooksack Falls 142 105, 115 Quinault 68

364 229, 230 Sourdough Ridge Trail 116 R Salt Spring Island 302‑5 South Falls 221 radio 358 Samish Bay 92‑3 South Walla Walla 133 Radium Hot Springs 334‑5 Samuel Boardman State Sparks Lake 230 Rainy Pass 105 Scenic Corridor 172 Spiral Tunnels 337 Rathtrevor Beach 310 San Juan Islands 83‑9 Spirit Lake 122‑3 Rattlesnake Hills 129 San Juan Vineyards 85 Squamish 282, 287 Rattlesnake Lake 60 Sand Creek Estuary 181 Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Sandlake 182 Centre 283

Raymond 76‑7 INDEX Red Mountain 130‑1 Sandpoint 147 St Hubertus Estate

Schneider Museum of Winery 321‑2 Reedsport 170 R-T Art 247 Staircase 72 Reflection Lakes 113 sea lions 170 Standing Stone Brewery 263 Richland 131, 134 Sea to Sky Highway 279‑87 272, 277 Ricksecker Point 112 Seaside 164‑6, 174 Station Camp & Dismal Rim Drive 248 Seaside Aquarium 165 Nitch 37‑41 road distances 349 Seattle 24‑5, 64-5, Stawamus Chief 282 road rules 350 110‑11, 152‑3 Steven’s Pass 101 roadside attractions 13 Seattle Art Museum 152 Stoller Vineyards 190 Robert Straub Scenic Park 182 Selkirk, the 145‑51 Stonehenge 194‑5 Roche Harbor 85‑6 Shaniko 195 Storm King Mountain Trail 71 rock art 198 Shannon Falls 282 Stout Grove 258 Rockport 106 Shaw Island 86 Strathcona Provincial Rogue River 171 Sidney 300‑1, 305 Park 312 Ron Bridges Memorial Stud Creek Trail 213 Trail 204 220‑2, 242 Summerhill Pyramid Winery Roozengaarde Display Silver Lake Wetlands Trail 121 321, 323 Garden 94 Sisters 222 Sumpter 198 Rosario Resort 88, 89 Siwash Rock 273 Sumpter Valley Dredge 198 Rose Spit 330, 331 Six Rivers National Sunny Valley 239‑40 Roseburg 250, 251 Forest 256 Sunrise 115‑16 Roslyn 60 Skagit River 106 Sunshine Coast Ross Lake 106, 107 Skamokawa 37 galleries 296 Row River Trail 241 Skidegate 326 Rowena Crest 47 skiing 19, 103, 114, 142, 230 T Ruby Beach 70, 73 Skinner Butte 241 Table Rocks 247 Ruckle Park 303 Slidewaters Water Park 103 Takakkaw Falls 337 Smith River National Tamástslikt Cultural S Recreational Area 256 Institute 206 Smith Rock 234 Sacajawea Interpretive Tantalus Lookout 283‑5 Center 35 smoking 358 Taylor Shellfish Farms 92 safety 206, 291, 350, 355‑6 Snoqualmie 61 Telegraph Cove 312, 313 Sahalie Falls 222 Snoqualmie Falls 61‑3, 65 telephone services 356 Salem 220, 225, 241‑2 Snoqualmie Pass 60 Terwilliger Hot Springs Salt Creek 229 Sooke 304, 305 224, 234

365 Thomas Condon Union 204, 206, 207 whale‑watching 171, 301, Paleontology Center 196 Upper Ape Cave Trail 123‑4 312, 357 Thorp Grist Mill 59 Whatcom Museum 154 Three Arches Rocks Wildlife V Whidbey Island 94‑7 Reserve 180 Whistler 286, 287, 344‑5 vacations 354 Three Capes Loop 166, White Pass 114, 117 177‑83 Vancouver 27, 272‑4, 340‑1 Whitney 198 Tiger 150 273 wi‑fi 22 Tillamook 166, 179‑82, 183 Vancouver Art Gallery 341 Wild Play Element INDEX Tillamook Forest Center Vancouver Island Parks 295 178‑9 (north), 307‑13 wildfires 224

T-Z Tilly Point 301 Vancouver Island Wildlife Safari 240 time 358 (south), 299‑305 Willamette Heritage tipping 23 Victoria 290‑1, 297, 305, Center 220 Tipsoo Lake 115 342‑3 Vida 224 Willamette Valley 13, 20, Tlell 326, 331 185‑91 visas 357‑8 Tofino 308‑9, 313 Willapa Seaport Vista Hills Vineyard 190 250 Museum 76‑7 Vista House 45 Tolowa Dunes State Park 258 Windy Ridge Viewpoint 122 Vivian Lake 230 Tom McCall Point Trail 47 wine festivals 322 volcanoes 15, 234 Tom McCall Waterfront wineries 13, 127‑35, 140, Park 260 185‑91, 315‑23 Toppenish 129 W Winston 240 tourist information 356 Waitsburg 132 Winthrop 103, 107 Tow Hill 330 Waldo Lake 230 Wizard Island 248 Tower of Babel 336 Walla Walla 132, 135 wolves 338 Town Plaza 262 Wallowa Lake 211‑12, 216 Wonderland Trail 112 Trail of Fossils 195 Warrior Fitness Trail 229 World’s Largest Frying Pan 79 Trail of Ten Falls 220 Washington Pass 105 Trail of the Shadows 112‑16 Washington State Capitol 68 train travel 50, 111, 352 waterfalls 17, 45‑6 Y transportation 23, 351‑2, see Waterfront Park 157 Yachats 167‑9, 175 also driving weather 22 Nation Museum & Treetop Trek 258 websites 23, 350 Cultural Center 129 Tri‑Cities 35, 41 Yakama Scenic Byway 130 Wenatchee 102 Troutdale 45, 51 Yakima 128‑9, 134 Wenatchee National Tulip Festival 94 Forest 102 Yale Lake 124 Twilight 70 Wenkchemna Peaks 336 Yaquina Bay Lighthouse 167 Twin Peaks 61, 64 West Walla Walla 132 Yaquina Head Outstanding Westcott Bay Sculpture Natural Area 167 U Park 85 Ymir 150, 151 Ukiah 204 Westfir 229, 235 U’mista Cultural Centre 312 Westport 76, 81 Z Umpqua Hot Springs 248 Whalen Island 181 Zumwait Prairie Preserve 211

366 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

JOHN LEE RYAN VER BERKMOES Born and raised in the historic UK city of St Albans, Ryan Ver Berkmoes has written more than 110 John grew up in the lengthy shadow of London, guidebooks for Lonely Planet. He grew up in Santa finding as many opportunities as possible to gorge Cruz, California, which he left at age 17 for college on the capital’s rich diet of museums and galleries. in the Midwest, where he first discovered snow. All Slowly succumbing to the lure of overseas exotica, he joy of this novelty soon wore off. Since then he has arrived on Canada’s West Coast in 1993 to begin an been travelling the world, both for pleasure and for MA in Political Science at the University of Victoria. work – which are often indistinguishable. He has Regular trips home to Britain ensued, along with covered everything from wars to bars. He definitely stints living in Tokyo and Montreal, before he returned prefers the latter. Ryan calls New York City home. to British Columbia to become a full-time freelance Read more at ryanverberkmoes.com and at @ryanvb. writer in 1999. Read more about Ryan at: lonelyplanet.com/ ryanverberkmoes

BRENDAN SAINSBURY Originally from Hampshire (the ‘old’ one in England), Brendan has been covering Seattle and the Pacific Northwest for Lonely Planet for over a decade. He is currently based in White Rock, BC, 45 minutes south of Vancouver and just 2km from the US border. Researching for this book (his 45th for Lonely Planet) he enjoyed trying copious new beers, getting drunk on coffee and doughnuts, and taking his son (yet again!) to Seattle’s legendary pinball museum.

Read more about Brendan at: lonelyplanet.com/ brendansainsbury

367 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few OUR dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen WRITERSOUR Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across WRITERS Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

BECKY OHLSEN CELESTE BRASH Becky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in The beauty of the Pacific Northwest coaxed Celeste Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and travel back to the US after 15 years in Tahiti. For the last stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere six years she’s revelled in exploring her new back for Lonely Planet. yard, its mountains, coasts, wineries and fantastic restaurants, while getting back in touch with her Read more about Becky at: www.lonelyplanet.com/ cowboy and Indian roots. Her award winning writing beckyohlsen has appeared in publications from BBC Travel to Afar and Islands Magazine and she’s contributed to nearly 60 Lonely Planet titles.

Read more about Celeste at: lonelyplanet.com/ celestebrash

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