The organic vineyards of Casa Lapostolle

Chile’s New Frontiers Producers experiment with non-traditional grape varieties and new regions, and rediscover old vines

By Kristen Bieler

f you think you know what Chile’s wine industry is all about—well-priced, “We realized that while Maipo is good straightforward Cabernets and reliably tasty Sauvignon Blancs—it’s time to for and Cabernet, it is not right for Pinot Noir, Syrah and Carmenère,” revise your one-dimensional impression. This South American powerhouse says Marco De Martino, current genera- is offering a far greater range of wines and styles as a growing number of tion at the helm. “If you are serious about I white wine and cool-climate reds, you vintners—small and large—experiment with new grapes and regions. As they need to look elsewhere.” begin to uncover the country’s barely tapped potential, Chile is emerging as one of De Martino went to Limarí in 2000 the most diverse wine regions on the planet. when most of the region’s grapes were used only for pisco production, and soon concluded that “Limarí is by far the best Cooling Off ing Cabernet, Malbec and (really region in Chile for Chardonnay. The cool The De Martino winery has been making Carmenère) as well as some Semillon and climate and ocean influence help, but wine in Chile for over 75 years, since the Sauvignon Blanc. It wasn’t until the late it’s the limestone-rich soils which make founders arrived from Italy in the 1930s. ‘80s, when the family began focusing more the real difference,” says De Martino. De Like most producers at that time, they intently on exports (which today repre- Martino is also working with dry-farmed based themselves in the Maipo Valley sents about 80% of De Martino’s 150,000 vineyards in the cool Itata region near Bio which was well-established and in close case production) that the journey to other Bio; they will release a red and a rosé from proximity to Santiago, and began grow- regions began. there this year. And De Martino’s Syrah chile’s new frontiers

from the Choapa Valley, a newly discov- De Martino had a similar experience. ered and little known region famous for In the south, his team discovered many high acid grapes, is one of the country’s Chile’s old vines are old vineyards whose grapes were going to most elegant renditions of the grape. bulk-driven co-operative wineries. Grow- For José Manuel Ortega of O. Fourni- extraordinary thanks to ers had no idea of the quality they had in er as well, it’s all about temperature. The these old vines, he explains, which were O. Fournier group, which has wineries in their ancient and deep planted in the late 1940s. Most are field Spain’s Ribera del Duero and Argentina’s blends—a single vineyard may be planted Uco Valley, started looking at Chile in root networks. with Carignane, Malbec, Cabernet, Car- 2004; three years later Ortega decided on menère and Cinsault—and must be hand- San Antonio for whites and the Maule most southern part of Chile’s large Cen- harvested, so they are time-consuming Valley for reds. “In all the countries where tral Valley region, the overlooked Maule to manage. we produce wine, we aim for a fresh style, features the area’s coolest climate. But they’re worth it, De Martino insists: so we look for the coldest regions,” says O. Fournier is famous for old-vine “These wines are especially concentrated Ortega. “Maule has great temperature dif- Carignane—“Maule is Carignane,” says with good acidity, and they are complex, ference between day and night. Although Ortega, “it’s one of the only places you’ll since the different varieties ripen at it’s only 600 feet above sea level, its gets find it in Chile and it’s the most excit- different times.” In a vineyard with Malbec low temperatures from latitude (it is very ing grape there.” Odfjell and the Garage and Carmenère, for example, De Martino far south) not elevation. I define Maule as Wine Company also work with old-vine picks when the Malbec is very ripe and Bordeaux in an exceptional vintage.” Carignane in Chile. While the grapes are the Carmenère is still a little green, Even large, established wineries are mostly used in blends, O. Fournier is in- which gives a fruit-driven wine high in making moves towards coastal and cooler troducing an entry-level 100% Carignane acidity with notes of greenness which he regions, and the resulting wines are truly from 80-year-old vines for $11. Ortega maintains “is not a bad thing, contrary impressive. San Antonio (particularly also stumbled upon 100-year-old Caber- to what experts at U.C. Davis say.” De its Leyda sub-region) and Casablanca net Franc vines, which he’s been making Martino makes 10 single-vineyard wines were the first pioneering areas for cool- wine from for four years. to showcase the character of each place. climate winemaking and many of the Chile’s old vines are extraordinary Respecting the design of old vineyards country’s high-volume brands are now thanks to their ancient and deep root net- yields superior wines, agrees Ortega: “Old sourcing Sauvignon Blanc and Char- works. Because the vines must go so deep vines allow us to see what our ancestors donnay, as well as Syrah and Pinot Noir, to find water—up to 20 feet in some cas- knew. Chileans have farmed grapes for from vineyards there. Concho y Toro now es—they yield grapes with unparalleled over 300 years—these farmers knew has a Chardonnay from Limarí, and the minerality and intensity. (By comparison, the land better than any expert. The behemuth Viña San Pedro (famous for in regions with ample water supply such crooked rows in these old vineyards were its Gato Negro brand) produces a deli- as Bordeaux, roots would never need to go intentional: to allow dry-farmed vineyards cious Syrah from Elquí Valley in the far that deep.) O. Fournier is experimenting to retain the maximum rainfall.” north, thanks to pioneering winemaker with grafting new varieties to old vines to Marco Puyo. The large Viñedos y Bo- take advantage of those root networks. Beyond Cabernet degas Córpora wine group planted over Outward expansion away from the Cen- 600 acres in Bío Bío, one of the country’s tral Valley has led to an explosion of most southerly regions, and the resulting The Problem—and Promise interest in other grapes. One unconven- wild yeast-fermented Chardonnay and —of Pinot Noir tional pioneer is Giorgio Flessati of Viña Pinot Noir illustrate the up-and-coming Falernia in Elqui Valley, a full five hours area’s potential. any consider Pinot Noir to be the next north of Santiago and one of the world’s Mbig thing from Chile. However, a serious highest wine regions. The Italian native New Attention for Old Vines challenge according to many has been getting (who also makes wine in Italy and Rus- The hunt for new terroir turned up some- access to the right clones: Due to the country’s sia) started here in 1999 after visiting thing else, as well: pockets of forgotten strict policy regarding the importation of plants, his cousin, one of the largest pisco pro- old vines. “In most regions in Chile, old there is only one clone available to growers, ducers in the area. Flessati wanted to use Wines of Chile vineyards were pulled out and replanted and some feel it’s inferior. That soon will traditional pisco grapes—Pedro Ximenez, in the 1970s and ‘80s, but Maule still has Torontel and Moscatel—for quality table change. Chilean nurseries have been working quite a few left,” says Ortega. “I call my wine. At first, he admits, it was a tough with Burgundy clones, and the seven-year vineyards the ‘Cinderella Vineyards’ be- sell, but today his PX (at under $10) sells quarantine will soon be up, meaning that cause for years these grapes were going 60,000 cases worldwide. “PX is an easy winemakers will have higher-quality Pinot Noir into bulk wines, which is a disgrace.” The grape to grow here; the climate is fantas- © Photographs courtesy of grapes to ferment. Stay tuned for more—and more delicious—Pinot Noir from Chile. chile’s new frontiers

Highlighting regional differences is key to placing high-end wines.

tic for it. Elqui has the altitude, light and with organic grapes in 1999. Now part sun to make it the best place for a wine- of the Santa Rita Group, Nativa remains maker,” he says. There’s new attention on “Elqui has the altitude, one of the most commited producers to Elqui—a handful of producers buy grapes organic and works with grapes from the region—but Falernia remains light and sun to make throughout Maipo and its own vineyards the only winery. in Colchagua. At Cono Sur, in addition Flessati works with traditional variet- it the best place to a line of ies as well, including an outstanding Sau- wines made vignon Blanc and an award-winning Syr- for a winemaker.” from organ- ah. But there’s nothing typical about his – Giorgio Flessati of Viña Falernia ic grapes, Carmenère, which he crafts in the style the winery of Italian Amarone, or his Ripasso-style has made Syrah-Carmenère blend: “The soft tan- 1997. A strong sentiment for sure, but big strides nins and high acidity of Carmenère lends his point is valid: In Chile’s dry climate, towards ISO-certified sustainability since itself well to the Amarone style.” Both of it’s easier to practice organic viticulture. the late 1990s, promoting environmental- these are under $15. “The combination of geographic condi- ly-friendly winemaking, not just in Chile, “We are offering something completely tions and a healthy climate allows us to but around the world. different from other Chileans. We have a more easily take the risks necessary to A unique aspect of Chile’s commit- truly different terroir and we focused from move to organic viticulture,” says Leon. ment to sustainability is just how collab- the beginning on different grapes,” Fles- “Today, organic management is an alter- orative it is, spearheaded largely by The sati explains, adding that he is interested native that is more economically viable, Wines of Chile’s Sustainability Program. in trying Riesling, Gewürztraminer and too, since natural nutrients and enzymes Created in May 2010, the program estab- Italian grapes like Nero D’Avola and are more available and competitively lishes guidelines for wineries to increase Aglianico. “We have such potential for so priced often than pesticides. The whole their sustainable practices by measuring many varieties here; Argentina might be country is going down this environmen- social responsibility, energy efficiency our neighbor, but it doesn’t have the same tally-friendly path and once you do, you and carbon footprints. The project in- diversity in terroir, so it’s not capable of see it’s not much more expensive. Buyers cludes the first network of meteorological Chile’s range.” also are putting the pressure on for more stations throughout all of Chile’s wine- Larger producers see the potential in organic grapes.” growing valleys. The 33 stations provide other varieties, too: Casa Lapostolle will Casa Lapostolle recently received it’s real-time, online information about tem- soon debut its estate-grown Viognier from LEED certification, the global standard perature, humidity, solar radiation and Apalta, and its Colchagua Syrah will be for environmentally-friendly business wind velocity with the goal of better un- co-fermented with Viognier (in the Rhône practices. Lapostolle’s 900-plus acres derstanding each region’s terroir. style). “It’s very exciting and interesting of vineyards in Casablanca, Cachapoal for us to move away from Cabernet and Colchagua Valley are all managed Coming of Age and Chardonnay,” says Andrea Leon, organically and biodynamically (the As the Chilean peso gets stronger against winemaker for Casa Lapostolle. “We’ve winery is working towards official the U.S. dollar squeezing profits as it been working with Petit Verdot with biodynamic certification). rises, it’s more important than ever for compelling results, and are doing small One of the Chilean wineries to show the world that trials with Mourvedre and Carignane.” most progressive they are capable of high quality, says Leon. organic produc- Lapostolle wines score famously well with It’s Getting Easier to be Green ers, Nativa was critics across the price spectrum, but “we “Lazy winemaking is the only reason not the first Chilean can’t be isolated; the whole country has to go organic,” believes De Martino, who winery to make to move in this direction. We still have a began switching to organic farming in wine entirely way to go in this regard.” chile’s new frontiers

The goal, says Falernia’s Flasseti, end wines, people are paying for wine distinguish each region. is to bring attention to wines in the with a real sense of origin—we need to To taste is to believe. Ortega recalls $15-$20 range. “You can’t get similar communicate to the trade the differences a wine journalist who once compared quality wines from California at these between Maipo, Alta Maipo and Mid- Chile’s wines to a Volvo—“well-made, but prices,” Flasseti assures. It’s a matter of Maipo, for example.” One important step uninspired.” The same journalist returned communication, points out Ortega: “We in this direction is the newly approved to Chile to explore Maule Valley and Leyda have to develop our reputation as a fine appellation system championed heavily Valley; after witnessing the diversity and wine producer.” by Mario Pablo Silva of Viña Casa Silva quality there, he changed his assessment. One way Chile is achieving this, be- winery. Producers now have the right to “He told me Chile is one of the most exciting lieves De Martino, is by highlighting use three terms on their labels, Costa wine producing countries in the world,” these regional differences that Chilean (coast), Entre Cordilleras (central) and Ortega remembers. “Now, we just need to winemakers are discovering: “With high- Andes (eastern), in an effort to help clearly spread the word.” n

Chile’s Regions to watch

Elqui Valley former table grape region’s poten- of the nation’s oldest vines here Malleco Valley Almost all of Chile’s most northerly tial for outstanding Chardonnay. in dry-farmed vineyards planted Located farther south than any other wine region, Elqui, is still known Located in the north, Limarí is hot, with Carignane, Cabernet, Malbec, wine region in Chile, Malleco is near primarily for pisco (Chilean dry and desert-like, but the Pacific and Carmenère. the more talked-about Bio Bio Valley. brandy). The high elevation Ocean’s cooling breezes and ample Not much is planted currently, as vineyards (some 6,500 feet above river irrigation allow vines to thrive. the cool temperatures and abundant sea level) here benefit from the hot, Another key advantage: Limarí’s rain make it one of Chile’s more dry climate and a distinctive type of limestone soils are rare in Chile, challenging regions for grape- pure light. Stand-out grapes here and yield Chardonnays with a growing. Early efforts, however, prove include Pedro Ximenez, Sauvignon coveted minerality. Malleco to be an exciting place for Blanc, Carmenère, Chardonnay Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. and Syrah. Itata Valley This coastal region, originally planted during colonial times, is CHILE WINE REGIONS in the midst of rediscovery, with ancient vines farmed alongside Elqui Valley new plantings on vertical slopes. Limarí Valley Choapa Valley Much more exploration is in Aconcagua Valley Situated at Chile’s narrowest point Itata’s future; so far Moscatel, Choapa Valley where the Andes and Coastal Cabernet and Chardonnay Maipo Valley

Mountains more or less run into make up most of its limited Casablanca Valley Andes one another, Choapa has two production. Mountains San Antonio Valley Limarí Valley sections: Illapel and Salamanca. Leyda Valley Though Limarí is far from undis- While there are no wineries here, Bio Bio Valley SANTIAGO covered (vines were planted here vineyards—mostly Syrah and This cool, damp region in the Rapel Valley Cachapoal Valley in the 16th century), it is attracting Cabernet—produce low yields of country’s far southern reaches Central Colchagua Valley outstanding grapes marked by has been generating big buzz for Valley an increasing number of vintners (From Maipo to Maule) high acidity. its Pinot Noir potential. Crisp who are just now recognizing this Curicó Valley Bolivia Sauvignon Blancs also shine Maule Valley here and vintners are experi- Maule Valley Chile: One of Chile’s oldest regions is menting with aromatic whites Itata Valley Wine Regions also one of its most underap- like Riesling, Gewürztraminer Bio Bio Valley preciated. Until now: Visionary and Viognier. It’s at the forefront vintners are rediscovering some of organic viticulture in Chile. Malleco Valley Argentina

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