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Home , Arthur Duck, Aylesbeare, Baron Clinton, Bevil Grenville, Bishop of Exeter, Broadhempston

L

THEHISTORY

OY THR SUBURBS OF

WITH general pnrticulars as to the Tandonners. Lay and Clerical, from thc Conquest to the present time, and a special notice of the Harnlp Family.

Trn*.TIIIY WT,,

A Dipessim” on fhe Noble Houses of Redwen, and of Courtmay, EwLF of Dm.

1

i

LONDON: HENRY GRAY, 47 LEICES.IERSQUARE. W.C. Erctn: S. DIUYTON & SONS Plymnth: W. F. WESTCOTT. 14 FRANKFORTSrmrsT 1- 1- TO THH HEVERRWl ANI) KIGWI' HONOURARLE UENRY HUGH COURTENAY,

Qf *l Cdk

THIXTY-FIRSI' OF DEVOX,

PKY.RENllAPY OF EXETER CATHEUIUL, ANIJ

RECTOR OF POWDERHAM,

'IWESE PAGES ARE INSCRIHED

ny THE AU'I'NOY. l

PREFACE. - A preface is almost unnecessary, as my fimt chapter sufficiently explains the mcthocl I have adoptedin the compilation of the following paws. I may mention, however, that this little volume is the partial result of the labours of more than twelve ycars, during which 1 have been constantly examining and noting original records of all kinds, both here, and in , as most of my friends are well aware. I directed the late Mr. Dymond’s attention to the papers, at the Guildhall, in connection with the murder of Mr. Petre, of Whipton, with the result that he soon afterwards included a notice of that unhappy episode, in the history of the Drewe family, in his paper on the “Old Inns and Taverns of Exeter,” read beforc the “Devonshire Asso- ciation“in 1880. I only mention this to avoid the suspicion of ao unacknowledged plagiarism from one of his many valuable contributions to Devonshire history. It may bc seen that his account diflers from mine, in a somu- what important particular. He says, that these papers give no report “ as to theissue ” of the sad affair, whcrt:ab: the coronefs jury aLtually returned a verdict of ‘*wilful mur- der” against Drewe, as I have stated in my text. Dr. Oliver notices the “Font” atHeavitree Church, with which he n.as “ surprised and pleased.” I have not referred to the present Font, which is modem, hut the old one, which certainly merits much commendation, may still be seen inthe grounds of “Hevitre” House, the picturesque residence ofSir Francis Clare Ford. It j would be well if it could be restored to its original uses, if not to its natural situation. i l\-. f c. 3 Heanme. pmatJ. a5lh. ISSZ. f TABLE OF CONTENTS. vii.

CHAPTER Ill. THEPARISH OF ST. LEONARD.-Some prvticulara of the Spint-The Church-Its foundation bv the Earl of -Its early hintory- Avis of St. Leonard's-William de Vernon-Pnt~onm of St. Leonard's TABLE OF CONTENTS. -TheOld Church-The Hermitage-Larkbut-TheHuh-Rire and prope~of the Baring Family-Mount Radford House-The t City Gallows in Magdalen Rod-Nicholas Duck-His portrait- Parker's Well-lard Gifford-Hiu dewendant wins the Victoria craq - . Pnfar 59-73. CHAPTER 1. INTRoDucroRv-John Hoku and his History of Exeter-Copied by CHAPTER IV. the 1-6-Hoku's work still in Manuscript-Its proposed publica- REDVERRAND CouaTENAu.-The Fable as to the Origin of the latter tion-Dr. Oliver's Note-Their value-Their shortcomingn-Mr. Family- Florus-Peter of France-He marries Elizabeth Dymond's Account of St. Leonard'-Previous Authors-Modern Courtenay-Princess Yolande-Courtenay Empaom of Constanti- Hrmaldry -.Caution as to future resturatione-Nrw Churches-Dcpa- nople-Michad Palsolops--Reginnld de Courtenay-His arrival in dmciea of Heavitree-Livery Dole Chapel . - pngrr 16. -The Marriage of himself and ron-Koben, Baron of Oke- hampton-The Redvers Family- of Devon-Theirdcrwent, CHAPTER 11. wav, bom the Dukes of Normandy-Their poasensionn in Devon- Bhire-The -Ralph de Avenel-Descent the Worthes THE PARISH HravlTRKE.-D~ivation-Thr Manor unda tbe of 01 of W&-Mny Redvers marries Robert Cwrtenay-Death of Saxons-Its Norman mvnctn-The Kelly Family-The Barings of de Coun- Iaabella-Couranay ~cccedaa* -The St. Ironard'+Manm South Wonfmd--Queen Edith-GeoRry of dc Redvnn Sal-The Arms of Dol-The Coatmay Earls-Mi8- Mandcvill-The Home of Fitz-John-The Tirelle-East Wonford fononea of the French CounenaybThe Crown of Thorns-A Manor-Gavirand Speke-Ringawell-Exe Bridgewhiting of Cowtenay Marquess-Rinccss Kath-ine-Mendacious inscription- Wood-Wonford Speke-The -Govanor Hutchin- Little " Chokebone"-Queen Mny's lovc-CO-heirs of Cowkenay- LO" of Maarehueens-The Manor of Whipton--"Mlata Will Courtenayof Powderham-Courtenay -Counenay Viscountn Peue"--ls murdered by Drew-Finding of the Body-The Inquest --Rceovcry of the Earldom-Further remarkn on theCourtenay Arms and Vadict-The Murderer escape-Berry of Barley-Tbe Arms of -The High Tomb at Exctu-The Cowtenay Lnbel Paps 74.118. BankerrMatford House-Sir GM~~cSmith-Hall, of Exda --Lords of the Hundred-The Chapel oI St. Eligius-Its dwip- CHAPTER V. tion-Ita protable datbRefened to Jenkins-Its endowments- by THE PARISH RNH0E.-King Etheld 11.-TheVi!ings-The Wdens of St Loyes-Life of this Saint- Church- OF Livay Doltlts name explained-Ita histoq-Its deacription-The Dubhg.llcInwions of the Norsnnen-Sweyn of the Forked Bcprd -The Battle of -A Martial Priest-Qodwin. Earl of Kent- Death Cluua-Thomla Benct-Mnrtyed at Livery Dole-The of St The Abba ofJhttl-King William and Pinhoe-Robert & Vaux- Iron Ring-Hay VI. at Henvitrc-Thc Rollea and Livery Dole- His dneendants-Sir Thmla Molton-Dnere of Gilldand-The Artnorials of &.-The Manor of POLIO-Ita fi01y-R~ De-, Cheney Family-Knhoe Church-Its Norman Font-hiption of psol in Colyton, Pnyhetnbury. and elsewhao-YoungMien of quality-The Isaacks of Polslo-Rernains of the Convent-St. the Fabric--"The Porn Man of Pinhoe"-Rome past Vi-The Charitia of Knhoe-A Remarkable Fund Pages James's Rimy-The Church of Heavitrce- Its demiption-Sointn - x1g-141. on the Tower Scrcen4ld Inmipion-ThcConrtetuy ha- The Chapcl of St. AnnbSt. Sidwell'n Church-St. hvid nnd SL Clement-The Manor of Dwyud-The Gall~wrat RingnvalLlts Victim-EHsUtion for Witshrrrft-Dueh'n Alms-h-HcaviUca Chnriti- - Pagrs 758. viii. TABLE OF CONTENTS.

I. hldwin identified-His #R to B=, in Normandy-Cowick Priory- Its exact aituation-Yc Earl's Chmbs-Burial-place of wme of the Cnurtenays-The Chapel on Exe Bridge-Dmunyed hy a Fld- The Church of St. Thomas of Canterbury-Its description-Itn Vicar hanged on the Tower-Cowick Bnrton-Ib Ancient Graveyprd de- wribed-Chapel of St. -Recent discoverira-A Stone Coffin -The homc of the Russell%-Old Painted Glass-Bade of Edward Tudor. Prince of Wales-The Pate Family of Cowick-White- Abbott-CowickManor-Thc Priory of St. Mary of the Marsh- Hayes Rarton-Floycr-llayn-The Floyrr Fmily-Bowhill-Barley IlouatThc Old Rridewell-Oliver Family--Pmanklands and Cleave CHAPTER I.--INTRODUCTORY. .-Oldridge- Ancient Chapel-The Fate of Sacrilege-The Vicarage Of St. Thomas -Parochial Charitics - Pngas 142-171. .*.. ..

CHAPTER VII. SISCE old John Holier wrote his account of ALPIIISGTOSIX Ds~ranrOF Kesrrr.--Origin of ita nme--Baldwin Exeter, which the Isaacs subsequently copied, the Sheriff-William of Avend ~gain-sir John de Neville-Nune- ham Iwrme and Nunrham Cuurcy-Counenays of Alphinpn- with scant veracity. manyattempts have been Patron%of the Ratory.--Thc Character of the Id-Curious Lmer made to elucidate the historyof our "faithful city." hm Sir -Alphington Church-Its de8cription- The greater portion of Hoker's work is still in Thunderatcm in 182& Alphington Cras-Charles Dickens- Matford manuscript, and, .with the Town lJinham--" Maadford".-Mmh Barton-A MUSCUIU Churchman- the permission of Extent Of the *' Cell," St. Mary's Acre-The ss Admiral Vernon "-- Council, which has been readily accorded me, I The Hamlyn Family-Hmelinc de Balun--~~Hamelinm" of Domes- trust, at no distant day, to be enabled to publish it h-The Hmlyns of Widecornhe. Exeter, and Clovdly-Alphington in its entirety and to annotate it with the result of Charities . papa 17z-am. . my own researches amongst the City archives, and ADnITloNAL NOTES.-Bankes and Crossing-Synopsis of the Earldom amongstother original documents with which I of Devon-One W ovo corrmhna - Pages 2Oo-ZUd. have been conversant for many years. But in - the following pages I do not propose to deal GENERALISDEX . - Pnps w)-a~o. withExeter at all; no previous effort has been made to write the histov,of its suburbs as a whole, and in those suburbs the most influential of our citizens are now accustomed to reside, and to resort to them day by day, for healthful rest and change, after their business toil is over. So I believe that the historical records which I have now collated, will not only add something, to what is known already, as tothe four parishes B 2 The S71b7lYbS uf Exefcr. -. ~ .. r7bdMtOv. -- . .. .- . .__ -. .-3 which extend immediately outside the ruined walls been no exception to the general rule. Fortunately of “Isca Danmoniorum,” but that they will serve he invariably printed the original Latin deeds and also to correct in some instances the careless and charters he has referred to whenever he was able superficial statements which have been madeby to do so, although in many instances they contra- manyable writers from time to time, who have dict his assertions, andin others they furnish unfortunately attempted more than they have been evidence which in the text of his works he has not able to perform. supplied or which he has rathercuriously admitted It may be urged that places like Topsham, Stoke that he hasbeen unable to procure. , Powderham, Upton I’yne, and numerous My late friend Mr. Robert Dymond, F.s.A., other parishes similarly situated should have been published many years agoa small pamphlet which included in my present work, but, had I attempted givcs a most interestingsketch of the parish of this, I should have erred precisely as those before St. Jxonard‘s. His invariable painstaking accuracy me have erred: I should have professed too much, characterises itthroughout, and it isvery pleasantly and in such case no satisfactory account of a single written, but he has told us nothing whatever as to district could have been written, because the limits the earlyhistory and origin of the parish, and of the present volume would not have allowed it. indccd has given it as his opinion that such par- SO that instead of devoting one or two pages ticulars “would never be recovered.” each, to incomplete histones of a dozen different Withthese few prefatory observations I may parishes and their old inhabitants, as others have almost leave the following pages to tell their own done before me (and even then many places and story; I only trust that they will prove as accept- families with equal claims would have been neces- able, as I believe they will, not only to my own sarily excluded), I have thought it wiser to limit immediate neighbours, butto manyDevonshire myself toan account of theancient villages of men resident elsewhere-not to those alonewho can Heavitrce, St.Leonard‘s, Pinhoe, Cowick, commonly claim a birthright in Exeter or its suburbs, but to called St. Thomas, and Alphington, the whole of all those who proudly boast that they belong to which are barely outsidethe limits of the municipal Devonshire, to all the many lovers and admirers boundaries. of the fairCapital of the West, and of our beautiful Good old Dr. Oliver hashanded down to US and charming county as well,-and their name is manyvaluable notes as tothese parishes, the indeed ‘‘ legion.” If my hopes are realised in these msult of his long labour amongst original local respects it will be easy to extend my plan, and to =cords. All hisworks possess the greatest possible follow thepresent work withanother upon the value, and 1 should be sorry to depreciate them. We neighbourhood ” of Exeter. are all liable to make mistakes, and the doctor has Whether previous attempts to write the hiatory

... i Inboa‘tuhny. 5 Subruds of Exettr. .- -...... -. -.4 . .Th ...... their lives and actions have appeared to me worthy of the city proper, have becn entirely satisfactory, i of particular mention, as in the case of Bishop I leave others to decide; the attempts have been Godwin, of Heavitree, and in other instances. made, and the road therefore has been practically In conclusion, I have thought it inexpedient to closed to further essays, but not to my projected devote any space to modem , sepulchral transcription of the original manuscript of Hoker. or otherwise, of which there arenumerous examples and to its annotation from the public records and at Hcavitree and elsewhere. Many of these are the municipal archives: but, as the general history Of true bearings of well-known families, and will be at the suburbs still remained to be witten,I have felt once recognised upon inspection. Others have not justified inmy endeavour to place it before the the slightest pretensions to represent the people public in an attractive and readable form, in x- they intend to commemorate. Thetrue bearings cordance, I trust, with the requirements of modem will be appreciated without my aid, and it would literature. be perhaps invidious and unpopular to distinguish Therefore I have not burthcned thetext With them from the false in these pages. At all events, references. I have carefully read and studied the I have not attempted such an unpleasant and un- various records, andthe authors who have gone popular task, and have therefore said nothing as to before me, and by collating the various accounts modern Heraldry. Of these with the former, I have been able to But I der this caution, that in future “restora- correct them in many instances : in others I have tions,“ well-meaning persons may not allow them- been enabled to add much fresh information. selves to be over-persuaded, to render themselves But previous authors have never attempted any- ridiculous, through the persuasions of officious and thing beyond scattered and desultory information. ignorant pseudo-authorities.People have a right .. One has said something on one point, another on to armorials, or they have no such right. In the another. The late Mr. Dymond’s effort in con- former case they can easily proveit, or, if they nection with St. Leonard‘s has been the only are doubtful, they can acquire it: if they have no real attempt at a complete history of any particular right, save that theybelieve to beconveyed by suburb Or parish, as I have remarked already. i identity of name,with someone who has a right, Nor have I thought it necessary to re-print lists which is a very false belief, then it is above all of vicars Or Priors.which Dr. Oliver collected i things culpable to place such spurious achieve- and They toare foundbe either in ments in God’s house. But it will be found that i bis “Eccl~iaftical Antiquities I’ or else in his when anything can be gained by describing autho- “Monasticon Of the Diocese.” But 1 have verified i rised armorials I have notneglected to afford them t of his lists from the Episcopal Registers, the comment to which they are ju..tly entitled. and I have specidly noticed such clerics by as I f5 6 The Suburbs of Exeter. --- .. . . - - . .. -. - 1 should add to what I have said in the text, that handsome modem churches have been provided for the districts of Whipton and South Wonford, but thatthese ancient manors are still within the j Parish of Heavitree, and do not form separate CHAPTER /I.-THE PARISH OF ecclesiastical districts. The ancient extent of this HEA VITKEE. parish will be better understood when I mention thatit isstill nominally, but not actually, the mother church of St. Sidwell’s, St. James’, St. pleasant village of Heavitree.with the Matthew’s, St. David‘s, and St. Michael’s, besides THE hamlets of Eastand South Wonford. and the two dependent chapdries of Whipton andWon- Whipton, may be looked upon as the most impor- ford. The Livery-Dole Chapel, once a chantry, tant suburb of Exeter, since the parish originally ? is now merely a domestic chapel, and intended for the convenience of the alms-folk. included also the whole of the land to the east and north .of the fortifications of the city, and the Churches of St. Sidwell and St. David were merely chapelries dependent on it. It is distant about a mile from the ancient Guildhall, and upon the Londonroad, and belongs tothe Deanery of “ Christianity,” or Exeter. Lysons says that the Manor of Wonford “an- ciently gave name to the parish,’’ but such is not i the case, and in viewof the variousdiscrepancies and inaccuracies, not only containedin the “Magna H Britannia,” but also in the works of Risdon, West- cote, Jenkins, and other authors, who have included .ii f a notice of this parish in their several works, L think that it will be better to state simply i the result of my own recent investigations, without any reference to previously printed statements.

The word 1‘ Heavitree ” is most probably derived from *SAW”or 1‘ Avon.” water, and “TR.” the British word for a town or settlement, and it is irhc Parish .f Heavitrec. .- .__ .. __ .- .- -. __ -9 It was subscquently alienated from the latter, in punishment fnr the rebellion of one of the owners, in the reign of King John, and was restored by that monarch tothe Mandeville family, in the person of Rohert, son of Rogerde Mandeville. some time Castellan of Exeter. With a daughter of Robert de llandeville. thr Manor of Wonford passed to William Fitz-John, who I think must have been a brnthcr of Matthew Fitz-John, who was appointed Castellan of Exeter by Edward I. in rz87-forlife-and who served the ofice of Sheriff of Devon in the following year. This Matthew Fitz-John had no children. He was the descendant of Herbert Fitz-Herbert, chamberlain toKing Stephen, and the grandson of Matthew Fitz-Herbert,to whom King John granted the Nanor of . near , and the children of John, second son of the latter Matthew, called themselves Fitz-John. William Fitz-John seems to have left a daughter, Joan, who married Tid, usually cornlptedinto

‘1 Tilly.’’ Henry 11 Tire&’’ and Joan his wife, were the owners of the Manor of South Wonford in 1387,and in their family it seems to havecontinued for some generations, when it passed, probably by bequest. to the Walronds, who had owned it for ‘4 some descents,” inSir ’s time. Joan, sister of Henry Walmnd of Bradfield, had married William 16 Tylley,” r)r Tirell. of Canning- ton, Co. , late in the fifteenth century, and appears to have died issueless. At some subse- quent period, the Kellys, being Lords of Heavitree Manor, added Wonford to theirother PmperrY, The Pan‘sh of Heavitrcc.---. . I1

Walrond, wife of William Tilley before mentioned. But the Spekes continued to hold East Wonford Manor for many generations, and thus it obtained the name of Wonford Speke, by which it is now usually known. Sir William Speke, the first Of Wonford, was the grandson of Richard L’Espec, the descendant of that Walter L‘l.:specwho was the munificentfounder of the great Abbeys of Kirkham, Rivaulxand Warden. Sir ’rhomas Speke, of White Lackington, was knighted by Henry VLII. and was a Gentleman of the I’rivy Chamber to Edward VI. He sold Wonford spke to Hurst, of Exeter, and, with Agneu, daughter and heir of William Kurst, it passed in marriage to George Bodley, of Dunscombe, near , first cousin of John, father of the RnOWnd Sir , of . The Bodleys sold the Manor to Sir George Smith, of whom l shall have occasion to speak presently, and in Sir william Pole’s time it belonged to Sir George's peat- grandson, then a minor. Subsequently the estate of the Manor became divided. The Uanor house was long the residence of a branch of the Pine family,whose arms may still beSeen oyer the entrance. In 1663, William Hutchinson emigrated to Sew England fromLincolnshire. and became one of the founders of Boston, on the other side Of the water. At thetime of the American Rewlution in ,776, the descendant of this William wab the Governor of Massachusetts, and through his fidelity to the Crown of England he lost the whole of his American property. The family then returned to England, and resided for many yeamat East Won- 7 The Parish of Henoifrcr. _- .. .- ...... 1s in Broad-clist Church, with the effigies of his four sonsand three daughters kneeling around him.” So the “counterfeit presentment” of young , the third son, is still preserved in somc sort. He died unmarried, and was interred at Broad- hembury, on thc eighth of June. 1636, having survived hisfather fourteen years. His brother John, also implicated in Petre’s murder, probably died before IGZO, as his name is omitted in the pedigrcc recorded by the heraldsin that year. A portion of the Petre property, in St. Thomas, came into the hands of the Berrys, and Bartho- lomew Berry, whose will was proved on the seventh of February, 1636, was of Lower Barley, in that parish. Hc married twice, but died without issue, and his nephews, sons of his brother John Berry, of -descended from Richard,third son of John Berry, of Berry Narber-succeeded to his property. Of these nephews, John Berry, the eldest,was Vicar of Heavitreeand Canon ot Exeter, and of him I shall have occasion to speak again; 13artholomew Bery succeeded to Barley, and lived there, and probablyalso to Whipton Ib ... ThE Parish of Xeavitree. - ’7 - married. Uy his first wife he had a daughter, Elizabeth, mother of the famousGeneral Monk, Duke of Albemarle; by his secondwife. Grace, daughter and co-heir of William Viell, of Madford, near Launceston, he had a daughter, Grace, wife of the equally celebrated Sir BevilGrenville. Thus Sir George Smith became intimately connected with the principal actors in the matter of the Restoration, for Sir JohnGrenville and General Monk were, of course, first cousins,and it was through the influence exercised by the former over the latter that Monk was induced to see the error ..,. of his ways. and to act as he did in favour of the j: return of the King. At a later period, Madford House was the tem- porary residence of Dr. , , and in his time the place was known as “Maydeworthie alias Madforde within the Parish of Heavitree.” From here, in 1632. on the twenty- second of October, his lordship instituted John Radforde to the Rectory of , and he transacted other episcopal husiness from this house down to May, 1633. In 1822, Madfordwas the property of James Oliver. The royal arms and of Queen Elizabeth may be seen over the doorway of this interesting old mansion, which has been recently thoroughly repaired. Although the families of Boyes or Dinham were never connectedwith this property,yet if the name Madford or Maydworthy had been given to it by Sir George Smith, it is singular that Risdon should have confused it, as he evidently has done, C The Parish of Hemhe. ‘9 ...... -...... -... .___ with one of the two manors of Madford mentioned consists of a nave forty feet long, and originally, in the Survey, and which are almost certainly according to Dr.Oliver, twenty-two feet broad. situated at Alphington and Hemiock, Matford in The width,however, has decreasedconsiderably, having been a barton of the former since portions of the eastern and westernwalls manor. have entirely disappeared, and the whole of that Lysons and Jenkins tell us thatthe Manor of on the north sideis gone altogether, and has South Wonford wasat one time in the “Xontacutes, been replaced by a thick wall of Devonshire cob. Earls of , afterwards in the Courtenays, The latter is pierced with two large modern door- Earls ofDevon.” This mis-statement has urigi- ways, and there is no vestige of the original nated byconfusing the manor with thegreat entrance. hundred of the same name. Simon de Moiltacute, The chapel is lighted on the south side by father of the first , was lord of three very gracetill lancet windows, now partially the Hundred of Wonford, and died in 1315. In walledup. Theyare verymuch splayed on the the following year, ’s name inside, and over eight feet high. The western Occurs as lord of the hundred, not of the manor, window has beenblocked up withstone, but and the Courtenay arms-Or, three torteaux-may enough of it remains to show that it was a double still be Seen upon the arcading of Heavitree Church, lancet;the mullion, dividing the lights, has without the label of three points, which was not perished, but the remains of featherings prove Used by the Courtenays until they had succeeded that the head was pierced with a quatrefoil. The to the earldom in 1335, as I have more than once eastern window is a plain quatrefoil opening, and explainedelsewhere. But the Courtenays were save that the glass is gone it has not been inter- lords of that portion of Exminster Manor which fered with at all. Both these windows, like the side atended into Heavitree Parish, as shown by exist- lights, diverge veryconsiderably on the inside. ing deeds, the two portions of the saidmanor being The tiled roof is of rather high pitch. There is no connected by the ford over the Exe near Salmon trace of the crosses on the gables which are figured Pool. in an old lithograph, butthe stone crosswhich neancient chapel dedicatedto St.Eligius,ungZici anciently stood at the western end of the building St* LOY% but now desecrated, issituated in the has been removed to the adjoining field, and may VdleY below Heavitree Bridge, and, together with still be seen there. a acres Of land and somealms-houses on the On entering the once sacred structure I found high ground above it,is theproperty if^ the Parish myself ankle deep in hdder; a roughflooring of Heavitree. divides it into two storeys, and there is a rack for forage extending alongthe south wall, the building

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The Parish of Heambee. I1 having been for many years used as a cattle shed. - _- -...... -- Through the broad interstices of the very dila- on the eastern end, it appears to have been used pidated flooring I could see thatthe roofwas for sacred service since the Reformation; it has anything but water-tight. The piscina on the long been desecrated,and its revenues appropriated south side is still very evident, although the to the relief of the poor. The building has been of aperture has beenfilled up with rubble, and the late years much neglected, and from want of neces- mouldings have beenremoved or are invisible. sary repairs the vaulted roof and one side fell very I could trace the form of the trefoiled head quite lately into ruins; the remains are now converted distinctly. into a stable.” The pined ceiling fell down many long years ‘l Near this is a cot-house patched up from old ago. materials, and some part of it appears of age coeval The width of the side windowson the outside with the chapel ; probably it was the habitation Of is about a foot,on theinside about four feet; the officiating priest.” those at theeastern and western ends are of course There is nodefined chancel, and the traces of proportionately broader. painting referred to by Jenkins wereinvisible to Judging from the styleof the eastern andwestem my eyes. I do not think the cottage he refers m. windows, I should consider that thewhole structure now pulled down, was the abode of the officiating is of late Early English date, the latter end of the priest. thirteenth century or commencement of the four- Although the rent of the land inwhich it is teenth. situated is certainly now appropriated to the use Of The present Vicar of Heavitree, the Rev. S. the poor, yet from the character of the foundation Berkeley, has interested himself in the preserva- it is more than unlikely thatit had ever any tion of this ancient building, which it is now in ecclesiastical endowment. contemplation to restore, not before it is time, for An anonymous writer in the Western Anliqmry it hardly looks as if it could stand another winter some time since described it as the “Site of the without attention. Abbey of St. ].ayes, or Loyes.” of which he said Jenkins (“History of Exeter,” page 438), writing he believed (6 there were still some remains.” But in 1806, says: “From east, the rivulet directs its the chapel had no monastic origin. It Was merely course to West Wonford through beautiful meadows. a domestic chapel, and is first mentioned, in Bishop and in a serpentine course glides near the Chapel Brantyngham’s ‘1 Register,” in 1387 ; although, as of St. Eligius. Thii very ancient e&fice was a few 1 said above, the existing remains are Sufficientto Years since entire, consisting of a nave and chancel, prove that it was built at least eighty-seven yeam and. hmsome remains of the Decalogue painted before. The following is a translation of the entry refer- ?

22 The Suburbs of Exctcr. ring to it: “At Clyst, first of April, 1387, the Lord As for St. Loyes and the ground around it, the (Bishopj granted a license toHenry Tirell and property was in fourths in 1588, and on the nine- Joan. his wife, that the Divine offices might be teenth of January in that year, JohnLye and celebrated by a fit Priest in presence of themselves, William Glanfeylde granted one-fourth to twelve or either of them,in the Chapel of St. Eligius, trustees for the use of the poor of Heavitrce, in within their manor of Woneford, situated in the consideration of Aj8 paid them out of the Parish parish of Hevytre, and especially on the morrow Stock. Of the Holy Trinity every year, save prejudice to The Parish Stock,” as it is termedin records, the Mother Church, and duringthe pleasure of appears to have been a consolidation of sums left the Bishop.” (Brantyngham‘s ‘6 Iiegister,” Vol. 1.. from time to time by the charitable for the use of fol. I 7 I .) the poor; in the generality of ancient wills the It has been assumed that the “cot ” referred to testator invariably leaves something, fmm a shil- by Jenkins was built on the site of the old manor ling upwards,for the benefit of the poor of his house, and that the chapel was within the manor parish. or mansion house in which Henry Tirell resided. At Heavitree, amongst other donors to this stock. I do not think, however, that theword “mansionem” may be mentioned Andrew Geare, who flourished bears any such construction. Had it been situated in 1588, JohnLcighe, or Lye, his contemporary, within the boundary of the manor house, the word who gave A6 13s. d.,William Cove, and others. employedwould have been mm.sSuItd or ?,mnsum Another fourth of St. Loyeswas conveyed by Capituk. “ Mansio ’’ is always used in Domesday JohnClement in 1625 for similar purposes, the to express a manor, and may be cited in this money consideration beingk52. particular instance. Exeter Domesday, fol. 95 b., The moiety (that is, the remaining two-fourths) &x i mansrimcnr pwe wd~rU>+rt. was conveyed also for similar purpo.ws, by Philip St. hyes was probably built by one of the Fitz- Ducke, onthe seventh and eighth of February, 1664. Johns at the end of the thirteenth century, and for A125 7s. 34to John Izacke and other trustees. PaJsed by marriage toHenry Tirell, whomust This moiety consisted of three messuages and nine have been an aged man when the bishop licensed acres of land. One of the three messuages was it in 1387. the Chapel of St. Idye ; another the cot farmhouse As already seen, the Manor of Wonford was mentioned by Jenkins ; the third, a barn at the top dkwards inthe Walronds, and passed subse- of the hill, to the north of the chapel. quently to Kelly. William Baring purchased it In 1689 it was settled that three-fourths Of St. of the latter, and sold it to his cousin, Sir Thomas Loyes wasto remain forthe common affairs. benefit, Baring, in 1816. and good of the parish of Heavitree, to beemployed at thediscretion of the of thc parish lands; in early life with a goldsmith. named Abho, who the other fourth to the use and behoof of the poor was master of the mint at 1-imoges. of the parish. Afier he had learnt hisbusiness he went to Paris, The affairs of St. Loycs from 1588,when the first and had a commission from King Clotaire 11. to fourth was purchased, appear to havebeen managed make him a state chair or throne, with gold and by two parochial officers, known as “Wardens of gems given him for the purpose. With the mate- St Loyes,”whose election was annual. ’Their rials supplied 1.oye made t$o chairs, instead Of accounts are extantfrom that year. one, and his honesty so delighted the king that betook him into the household and madehim From 1625 there seems to have been only one master of the mint at Paris. His name oCCU~on warden, who wasdistinct from the feoffees. In I 77 I his office was abolished, as shown by the accounts several gold coins struck at Paris in the reigns of of the Rev. J. Simons, a trustee, who says that he Dagobert I. and his son Clovis 11. had undertaken the office of treasurer and acting He was very religious, and was remarkable for trustee, or, “as it had heretofore been called, the the zealwith which he sang the Canonical office twice daily in his own house, with the assistance office of Warden of St. Loyes.” With the abolition of the office of warden, the of his servants and dependents. Hence h@was a chapel doubtless began to fallinto decay. With very suitable saint to become the patmn Of a the exception of the Church of St. Pancras, at domestic chapel. He was subsequently admitted to the priesthood, Exeter, recently restored, it seems tobe one Of the earliest complete specimens of ecclesiastical and was consecrated Bishop of Noyon in 640, on architecture in this neighbourhood, and it is much to be desired that the funds necessary for its repgr may be forthcoming, and that it will cease to be used as a cowshed any longer. In 1614, the old barn I have referred to, at the top of the hill, was converted into two cottages, at a cost of L161 4s. 7d. These were inhabited by poor persons, placed there by trustees. Of late years they have been rebuilt, and are now neat and appropriate buildings. St. Eligius, or St. Loye (in French, St. Eloy). wan born at Catelet, near Limoges, about the yes 588. He was of good parentage, and was placed Tht ParishTht of Neavitree. 27 .. ____.-. The name of Livery Dole, as I have explained in “Practical Heraldry,” page z 12, is derived from the French word g‘ livrer.” to deliver or give ; and thus from time to time it has really signified any- thing given or delivered, andthe distribution of food or alms amongthe poor have beencalled “liveries.” “Dole’. is a Saxon word which literally means a part or pittance, thence an alms. I incline to the opinion that the place receix-ed its name, because this chapel was unendowed, and depended for its ‘support upon the gifts or alms of the charitable, who, by their free offerings, thus Provided for prayers and masses for the souls of departed criminals. Jenkins, inhis ‘*IIistory of Exeter,” gives a differentreason, andsays thatit was so called “because the Magistrates and citizens in their afidsummer watch andother public processions, dressed in their livery gowns, here dispensed their alms to the poor.” This explanation, however, is scarcely likely to be correct, if for no other reason, because the spot is outside the limits of the ancient “ glacis *’ of the Exeter fortifications, and therefore beyond the jurisdiction of the city authorities. , The earliest existing mention of Livery Dole Occurs in a deed dated Exeter, the first of August, 1279; and in another deed of2nd Richard 11.. 1379, Some land is said to be boundedby “the highway leading from Lever-dole towards hfonkin- lake,” and again in 1440 then: is record of “the lane called Rygway, which leads from Levery Dole f UP the highway leading from Exeterto Polslo.” There is mention Livery Dole Chapel in E no of 4 The Parish of Hearitme. 29 -. - glass. Thereare no visibleremains of the piscina. The chapel was not dedicated to St. Clara,” as stated in Oliver’s “Exeter,” edit. 1861, but to St. Clarus, an Ilnglish missionary, probably in refer- ence to the manner of his death. He was murdered in Kormandy bytwo ruffians, at the instigation of an unprincipled wnman of good position whose unholy advances he had rejected, and thus died a “ Martyr to chastity ” A.D. 894. In addition to the ordinary executions by hang- ing, several persons were burnt to death at Livery Dole, the punishment at one time appointed for witchcraft,heresy, and for several particularly heinous crimes forwhich the usualmethod of execution was consideredtoo good. It appears from the calendar to a psalter in the possession of the and Chapter of Exeter that a certain personcalled Drew Steyner was burnt here on the seventh of August, 1431. Thomas Benet, M.A., who came to this city from Oxford, was accused of heresy in 153I. He was a schoolmaster in Exeter, and was a marriedman with a family. He caused one of his sons to place a paper on the doors of the , upon which he had written the following words:-“ The is Antichrist, and we ought to worship God only, and no saints.” The son was detected, by a citizen, going to early Mass, who carried him before the Mayor and laid an information againstthe father. who wa8 the next day brought before Bishop VeYseY, who, with the Canons of the Cathedral and City Magistram. The Parzih of Heavihee. 31 Tirc Suburds of Exeter...... - .. 30- .--. . . . . __ -.-. - Out in Latin, “0 Lord, receive my spirit,” and so jointly examined him. Every inducement was continued his prayers until his life was ended. adopted subsequently to effect his reconciliation Upon excavating for the new alms-houses at with the Church asthen established, but he re- Livery Dole in 1851,the iron ring which was wont mained firm to his reformed convictions, and a writ to encircle the victims’ bodies, and the chain used of “de commurcndo heretico” havingbeen procud to fasten them to the stake, were discovered and from London, SirThomas Denys, of Holcomb dug up by the workmen. Burnell. thenRecorder of the City and High Benet is believed to have been the last person Sheriff of the County, ordered the stake to be set who suffered at Livery Dole. The place of execu- up on Southernhay. tion was soon afterwards removed to Ringswell. But theMayor and Corporation declined to permit On the seventeenth of July, 1452, Henry VI. the execution within the city limits, and he came to this city from Ottery St. Mary, where he handed over to the tender mercies of Sir Thomas had passed the previous two nights. He was met in virtue of his county office,on the fifteenth Of by thc Mayor and Corporation at ClistHoniton, January, 1531-32. HC was. forthwith taken to but the monasticcommunities and Nd clergy Liverydole and fastened to the stake, whereup assembled outside the Chapel of St. Clarus, Livery two well-known gentlemen of the county-ThOmas Dole, and attended his Majesty to the South Gate, carew, andJohn Barnehouse-of Staverton-urPd where they were met by the Priors of St. Nicholas him first with fair words and afterwards With and St.John’s Hospital, and by the parochial clergy threats, to revoke his errors, to call upon our I& of the city. The streets were gaily decorated as and the Saints, and to say 66 Precor S. Axanam et the procession passed up South Street to the Omnes Sanctus Dei.” TO which he replied, “Nog Carfoix, and from thence to Broadgate, where the no, it is God only on Whose Name we must C& King dismounted and proceededon foot to the and we have no other advocate to Him but Jesus Cathedral. The service being there concluded, he Christ, Who died for US.). Mr. Barnehouse Was took up his abode at the Episcopal Palace, where emaged at this answer that he took a furze-bush he was dutifully received and entertained by his on a pike, and after setting it on fire thrust It intimate friend and counsellor, Bishop Lacy. into the sufferer‘sface, saying, “Heretic, pray to ’. Two men, indicted for high treason. Were tried our Lady, or by God’s wounds I will make the and condemned on the following day, inthe hall of do it.” But the only reply was, 66 Alas ! sir, trouble I the Palace, by his Majesty’s Judges, who were then me not/ and holding up his hands hesaid meekly, holding the Summer Assizes, but upon the inter- Father,pardon them.” Then the woodand cesston of the Biop and Chapter, theKing ‘‘0 i furEe were kindled. and blazed up around poOr g graciously pardoned them in honour of his visit. Benet, who liiup his eyes to heaven, and cried 32 The Snbwbs of Exeter. - --__ .. .__ - The Parish of Z~cuvihee. -- -- -. 33 Whether the afterwards felt some compunction for the part they had taken inwhat They were rebuilt in 1851,and now stand in line we must all of us now consider the judicial. but tothc westward of the chapel. The chaplain’s wicked, murder of Thomas Bcnet, I cannot say, but house is in the centre; over the gateway are the certain it is that his son, Sir Robert Denys, who arms and quarterings of Denys; on the other side was also of Exeter from 1576, states in of the building, those of Rolle, Denys, and Tre- his will, dated the twenty-fifth of July. 1592,and his. There are gardens in front of the houses, andabout an acre of garden ground, adjoining, Pmvcd on the twenty-second of September in the Same year, that he had desi$.pcd to set aside a Plot also belongs to the charity, which is endowed from a rent-charge of &, out of an estate called White- of ground and erect an alms-house and chapel for church, in the parish of Winterbourne, . a certainnumber of poor people, with weekly The pensioners are appointed by the Hon. Mark stipends and certain yearlycommodities, “as would Kolle, as representative of the founder, and are not appear in a devise signed and sealed by him.” confined to any particularparish. 1 I; His son, Sir Thomas Dcnys, is appointed E& There are frequent and regular services in the executor;George Cary (of Cockington), Edward, chapel. and Walter Denys, are supervisors and owrseMs* ..I/ . -. After the houses were rebuilt, the then chaplain, lhe latter are directed to carry Out his intentions the Rev. Francis Courtenay, for a short time, pre- if his son refuses to do so, and he enjoins his said viously to his death, inhabited the centre one. He SO% Sir Thomas, in consideration of the love he was also incumbent of St. Sidwell‘s. bore him, and that he had not disinherited him, to The chaptain’sstipend consists of this house, Carry Out his intentions in case he did not live to about A9 per annum, and a portion of the acre of finish the work himself. garden ground. The alms-houses for ten poor people, and a Withrespect to the connection of the present double one for the chaplain, were completed by the : patron with the founder‘s family, , of son, Sir ThomasDenys, in 1594. Nevertheless : (will proved on the ninth of February, the following misleadinginscription, which haS ; IJ~Z),was married thrice, and had twenty children. been printed over and overagain, was at some !:... Among them were John, son andheir; George, time Placed over the entrance to the quadrangle:- ;; second son ; and Henry, fourth son. ‘‘ These Alms Houses were :* ’sgrandson, Sir , Kt.. founded by Sir Robert Dennis. 1 married Ann, daughter and m-heir of Sir Thomas Knight, in March, I 59 t, Denys, who finished the Livery Dole alms-houses and finished by Sir Thomas in 1594. They had issue, , of Bicton, Dewis. hi8 bmfhr, in whose daughter Florence brought Bicton in mar- 159+” D 34 The Suburbs of Exeter. The P&h of Hmiiee. 35 - ... - . .. .. riage to her husband, John Rolle, of Stevenstone, brother of the present Lord Lieutenant of Devon. grandson of George, younger brother to her ances- The arms of Dennis, as itis now spelt, are carved tor, John Rolle. in stone, and painted in their proper colours, Over The fourth brother of the said John Rolle, Henry the northern entrance to the alms-houses. The Rolle aforesaid, acquired by marriage the estate tinctures have suffered from exposure, but there is of Heanton Sachville. His descendant. Robert a copy of them in the interior of the chapel. They Rolle, of Heanton Sachville, married Lady Am- appear as follows :- bella Clinton, daughter of Theophilus, fourth Earl 1st. Denys-erm. 3 battle axes gu. An old of Lincoln and twelfth . heraldic record says : "Post temp. H. 7, Thomas The Barony of Clinton, together with Heanton Dennys de Holcombe portabat insignia dicta cum Sachville, descended to the family of Trefusis in bordure ingra de rubro, quo tempore idem rex ao9 fecit eum militem," which may be thus translated :. right of descent from Bridget, daughter of the said "After the time of Henry 7th Thomas Denny% of Lady Arabella Rolle. ..i. , bore the said arms a bor- John Rolle, Stevenstone, and hiswife Florence with of dure engrailed gules, at which time, in the 5th year Rolle, of Bicton. had issue four sons. The eldest Of his reign, the said king knighted him." these was the grandfather of Henry Rolle, raised of znd,Dabernon-Arg. a cmss moline Sa on a to the peerage as Baron Rolle in 1748, but Who chief azure j mullets or. died without issue in 1750, when the title became 3rd. Gifbrd-brought in byDabernon, Sa. 3 extinct; but it was revived in 1796, in the penon fusils in fesse m. of his nephew, John Rolle, only son of his youngest 4th. Brewer-brought in by Gifford, Gu. z ben& brother, Denys Rolle. wavy or. The late Lord Rolle married in 18zz his kin* 5th. BockerellSa. Bezant6, z stags trippant arg. woman, the Hon. Louisa Trefusis, second daughta 6th. Christenstowe-h. a bendindented erm. of ROM. seventeenth Baron Clinton (in sUC~* and or, cotised of the last. to his relative George, third Earl of OrfOd 7th. Gobodesley ahGoldesley-brought in by who died 17943. Christenstowe, Sa. a fesse compony or and gu. Lord Rolle died without issue in 1842, wha between 3 c~ossletsof the 2nd. senerally known, his property was inherited bY 8th Chidenleigh-brought in by Goldesley, Arg. MYRo11e's nephew, the Hon. Mark Trefusis, Who onachevronbet- jroolrs'headserdSa.3 succeeded to stevenstone, and also to Bicton after acorns M. the death of her ladyship. 9th. Donne, dzias Dome-A. dyof crosslet% Mr. Rolle, Who assumed this name in 1852, is an unicorn salient or. it ie almostneedless to ranarl, the yome The Parish of Hemi&ee. 37 - - -. .- . --- .- his daughters, Grace Brewer,, certainly married her namesake, yet she had no sons, only four daughters. The founder is expressly stated by Bishop Brewet to have been his uncle, “mmZus nmkr,” a fact casually noticed by Dr. Oliver in another of his publications, so it is all the more singular that he should have made this error in his ‘‘ Monasticon ”; but long study, of the venerable doctofs various and valuable works, has convinced me that hevev frequently did not sufficiently inspect the original records he fortunately was ever ready to print, and which, therefore, in many instances absolutely con- tradict the statements he has madein his text. lhe patronage of the priory became restedin the Sec of Exeter, and Bishop Brewer was a bene- factor tothe theninfant establishment. The endowment consisted of the Manor of Polslo. together with some property in Heavitree, called Dyers-lands, Frog Marsh, and Botham, and a messuage at Clyst, called Cross Park. The Vicars of Heavitree were entitled to an annuity of AZ out of the Pols10 Armor. The netvalue of the Pols10 property was A53 11s. per annum in 1535. The hlanor of Tudhays, in the Parish of ColYtOn, also called Minchencomb, likewise belonged to the Priory, and a “charter of privileges” in respect Of it was granted to the community in 1228, as shown by the Rot. Cart., 13th Henry 111. Theyhad also the Manor of Coxpitt, in the parish of , valued at L8 15s. 11d. pei annum, and several scattered tenements and mes- suages, in all worth A18 3s. The total income Tk Parish of Hemibee. 39 _- ... . f;4 6s. 8d. from the episcopal manor at Ashburton to this priory. He subsequently gave the “Church of Ashburton ” (i.e., the rectorial tithes and patmn- age of the vicarage), charged with the payment to Polslo of this pension,to his chapter, about the

this annuai gratuity, L4 6s. W.,from their rectorial tithes of Ashburton, made it a perpetual Charge upon the vicarage, tothe increasedamount Of .& 13s. 4d., and, although Polslo Priory was entie1Y suppressed in 1538, this sum has been ever Since claimed and received from Ashburton vicarage On behalf of the patrons, under the name of “m annual pension.” Whilst speaking of Ashburton. it may be in- teresting to mention that Alice “Worthie,” as her name is written in the pension list at the Record office, and who was one of the Polslo community at j. . .. the surrender, was the daughter of Otho U Worthe.” 8. of Compton-Pole. in , who was grandson Of ; second son of Thomas Worthe, of worth, in . The motherof Alice “Worthie ” wasAlice hIvlleton. of Meavv. whose sister, Cecilia Mylleton. ~rio‘msof piislo in 1530. Alice ‘6 Worthie” died in June, 1586, and was the aunt, six times removed, of the late Vicar of Ash- burton, the Rev. Charles Worthy, who died in 1879. John Kelly, by his will, dated November, 1486s gave to Polslo a standing cup of silver, with a @t cover in the shape of a bell, and also a spoon of Silver marked with the letter K. The Parish of Heavibtc. 41 -__. . -- perannum, and f;2 13s. d.,the bailiffs salary (George Maynwaring, who had succeeded Robert Bennett in 1538). In 1549 the property was sold to the . Subsequently it formed a portion of the large estates gathered together by Petre of Hayes. Very soon afterwards Polslo was acquired by Sir Arthur Champernowne, second sonof Sir Philip Champernome, of , who purchased L)-- tington Hall, near , of John Ailworth, of London, and included Polslo as part of the con- sideration. ThomasAilworth, in 1609, granted a lease of polslo for a hundred and one years to Thomas Iwk,and shortly afterwards granted him a second lease for a thousand years, to commence on the expiration of the former one. This Thomas Isaack had no apparent Connection, as Dr. Oliver andothers have supposed, with Samuel Isaack, Town Clerk of Exeter, and father of Richard, the Chamberlain, and plagiarist of Hoker’s “History”; nor had either of these Isaacks of Hea- vitree any visible connection with the 1‘ Buryatt ” IYaacks. Thomas Isaack, the purchaser of Polslo, the grandson of Isaack of Ottery St. Mary, and yon of John Isaack, of Heavitree, “aged 86” in 1620. His second son. and ultimate heir, Koger Isaack, born ‘592, was the father of Col. Sebastian Isaacke, of POlslo, born 1615, buried at Heavitree on the eighth of November. 16@8,and his son, also called Sebastian Iaaacke, who died in 1700, is credited with having been the destroyer of the conventional The Parish of Ht%VicrcC. 43

but which, of course, once led to some other POr- tions of the building since destroyed. There *e also some traces of an underground passage. The PRIORY OF ST. JAMES, which the late col- Harding styles an “abbey,” was a Cell to the Abbey of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, near patb- AS “alien: its revenues were freSu~tIyseid by the Crown during wars with France, and it W= finally suppressed altogether in 1444. ana its reve- nues,then amounting to over per annum were given to Eton College.Consequently them are no visible remains of this monastic estab- lishment.which was foundedbetween theyears 1138 and I 141 by Baldwin de Redveru, .second Earl of Devon of that name. It stood in a marshy situation close to the nV% on a site still known as the“Abbey Field.” A done coffin was discovered there some years ago. which is, I believe, the only evidence existing at Present of the exact position of the priory, of which I shall treat further in my notice of the Parish Of St. Leonard. The Parish Church of Heavi-. dedicated to St. Michael, stands in a beautiful churchyard com- manding extensive views, a little to the south of the village. It originally consisted of chancel. navwonnected with north and south aisles by an arcade of four bays, of Second Pointed date, which has been incorporated in the present structure4 porch, and a western tower, containing four bells. The church was probably almost entirely rebuilt at the COmmenCement of the fourteenth century,

.. . Tht: Parish Hemitree. of .-45 l.-Aaron. the rod, budding, in his hand. 2.-St. Cecilia. V. and M., with a musical instru- ment. .3.--St. , with a long cross and a pair of pincers, treading on the devil. +St. Michael, the patron saint of the church. inhalf armour, a coat with scarlet sleeves, and holding a battle-axe. 5.-A female figure, apparentlyholding three nailsat. Helena, the Empress, who at first iden- tifiad the true cross by means of the nails which were found near it. 6.-A crowned female figure-the Blessed Virgin, crowned Queen of Martyrs. 7.-St. Genevieve, with a torch ($ &-A figureholding a sword inright hand, which may be that identified by Dr. Oliver as St. .. Catherine of Alexandria.The letters “N. C.” (Nonrine CatMm .g) are in the upper comer. 9.-A figure holding aloft a boat-shaped object, apparentlv of basket-work, in left hand a Chb-

part of the ne:k with a sword. Dr. Oliver only notices numbers 3,8, and IO, and calls the whole ‘‘a part“ of the ancient mod screen. which it is not, although of similar antiquity. Inthe old church thelate Dr. Oliver noticed ancient inscriptions for , no date; for John Vener, 17th July, 1527; for Sir John I.egh, “Priest;’ and for Hugh Legh, 2ndAug., 1536 i also for Alice and Elizabeth, wives of Uphome, Of the city of Exeter. And he surmises that “John ’. , r !f

Panih of Heat&ee. 47 I Tk

Leigh succeeded Thomas Valans as vicar, although louinge turtell,” have been printed by Jenkins. 50 his institution is notrecorded in the Episcopal I need not repeat them. The rather singularly Registers.” I think this a very improbable con- arranged shield of arms maybe blazoned: Pet jecture. The memorial inscription ran, ‘1 &a& plo fesse ; in chief, per chevron engrailed or and sable, athat’ phnnis Legh Presbyki/ and was probably on three roundels as many fleur-de-lis all counter- some years older than the second Legh inscription, charged (Mallock of Cockington). In base, lozengy which is dated 1536; and Thomas Valans, who or and azure,a chevron gules (Gorgesof Batcomb. was admitted on the second of November, 1507, new coat). Impaling azure (?)on a chevron between to the vacant vicarage of Heavitree, was still in three talbots’ heads erased argent, acrescent, for ’ possession on the third of November, 1536, as difference (Alexander). shown by Bishop Veysey’s return to the Crown, of Rose Alexander married. first, Roger Mdlock, that date. of Cockington,who died 1657. the twenty- ii When Dr. Oliverexamined the oldchurch he thirdof March in the same year Mrs. Rose Malld. L’ was able ‘‘to trace about eight feet of the wall of then the mother of Rawlin Mallock. of Cockingon, an earlier structure then blocked up.” In this wall married Thomas Gorges, of Batcombe, .%Orner*t, he also found a blocked-up Early English window, then the father of Susanna Gorges. .’ ! which would accord with the first mention of the The said Rawlin Mallock became the husband of s~chuein 1152, when it is believed to have been the said Susannah Gorges, and on another grave- granted by Pope Eugenius 111. to the Cathedd of stone, nearer the north aisle, may be seen Ma11oc.k Exeter. impding Grges, with an inscription to “ SUS=- It WaJ not appropriated M the Dean and Chapter wife of Rawlin Mallacke of Cockingtm and dm&- until after 1291, as it is not included in the lit of ter of Thomas Gorges, died 17th April. 1673: ! “ peculiars ” set down in the ~‘Taxatio”of that Rawlin Mdhk married, secondly,Elizabeth, Year, but the first recorded Vicar of “Hevyae,” daughter of Sir John Collins. John de christenstowe (John of cbristow), had The memorial to Sebastian Id6of “ Polsloe,” dmitted byBishop Bronescombe on the already ref4to, has his arms: “Sa. a bend % sixtaenul of April, impaling Barry and ’!h ~ 1280. or gules” (m?). name of his wife is not given in the Visitation PediPree, and the impaled coat points to the condusion that .ahe was Mary,only daughter of the vi= of H~avi-, John Berry. who WIU) deprived by the Puritans, and of whom I have Previous’y. -, ;:.. He was at one time taken p-= by the mb&

t.; ,: .. 48-- -7% - Stld&YbS . . -o/ Extvcr.. .- The Parish of HmvzZree. 49 .. - -- . _-I.- - but wasrescued by a party of Royalist cavalry. The last two shields, intended to commemorate His sequestration at Heavitree was much alleviated the Vicar and the Bishop, at the period of the re- by his succe.wr, William Bankcs, who supplanted building of the church in 1844, might, of course, him in the vicaragc almost immediately.and Bankes justly claim a place in the new fabric, but hardly was regularly instituted as his successor on the in the unfortunate position which was then selected twenty-fifth of February, 1645. for them ; besides which their arms are repeated in Dr. Berry was the principal founder of the old other portivns of the structure. workhouse at the hottom of Paris Street, and his The late Mr. Crabbe, well known in his generk statue was erectedover the front gate there in tion for his love of antiquities, perhaps suggested 1681. His picture may still be seen in the boa& these anachronisms, and he may also have had Mom of the present workhouse, and also those of something to do with the erection of a series Of his sons, Arthur Berry, u.D., Canon of Exeter, and modem coats of arms emblazoned on corbel shield% John Berry, who was a colonel in the Parliamentary and which entirely surround the church. and pm- army. fess to be those of the principal benefactors to the Dr. John Berry held, in addition to the Vicarage present building. Some of these shields were of Heavitree, the Rectory of and that rightly assigned to the individuals they comme- of St. Mary Major's, Exeter; he was also a P*- morate;others have beenadopted from chance bndaV and a Canon Residentiary of Exeter similarity of name, and consequently would be out Cathedral. of place anywhere, and are more especially So in a . He died on the fifth of july, 1667, aged eighty- church. *"en, and Was buriedin the Cathedral. Colonel The &-nay arms, exhibited without the label, Bemy and his brother John were by their father's prove almost conclusively that the fabric destroyed Wife, Agnes, buried near him in the Cathe- in 1844 must have been erected between the yems ! dral- His first wife, and the mother of Mrs. Isaack, I 3 1S and I 335. The Perpendicular windows W@% was Elizabeth, daughter of Humphry Moore, of of course, inserted at some subsequent date, in the Moorhaves. fifteenthcentury, when other alterations ab have been effected. l ! There are also some tableu. interesting to the i genealogist, of the Rhode3 family. of mdr, a well-known residence in this p~h,meY will be j

il 50 The Suburbs uf Excfer. -_ .. .- Bishop of Down and Connor. in , in 1596. The parish registers commence-baptisms, 1653 ; He was succeeded by Francis Goodwin, son of Dr. buriaIs. 1653 ; marriages, 1653-4. ThomasGoodwin, the venerable Bishop of Bath The Chapel of St. Anne, situated at the head of and Wells,with whom Queen Elizabeth had a St. Sidwell Street, had been only recently built in bitter quarrel, because he insisted upon taking a 1418. This chapel always belonged to the St. third wife when he was over seventy years of age. Sidwell's fee, and the Manor of St. Sidwell has Francis Goodwin,who also held the prebendal from a very early, but uncertain, period belonged stall of St. Decuman in his fatheis cathedral, was to the Dean and Chapter of Exeter. Probably it Canon and Sub-, and marrieda wasincluded in the appropriation of Heavitw daughter of the then Bishop of Exeter, Dr. Wad- Church to the See of Exeter by Pope Eugenius, ton. He succeeded to Heavitree Vicarage on the already referred to. resignation of his predecessor, Dr. Chardon, on the As lords of the manor, and therefore owners of sixth of October, 1595. He was the author of the the Chapel of St. Anne, the capitular body indicted hcned and useful work, "De Pr;esulibus Anglia" for trespass ono William Cudmore inthe year 1698. the lives of English , which has ever since He appears to have broken into the grounds of the been the standard authority on this subject, and chapel over the garden wall, and to have thrown which was written during the period of his resi- down the chapel bell. dence at Heavitree, whichbenefice he resigned In the first and second year of Queen Elizabeth, upon his promotion to the Seeof Llandaff in 1601. Oliver Manwaring and GeorgeManwaring, hii h 1617 he was translated to Hereford, and died in brother, restored '#the house of St. Anne's Chapel" 1633, and wag buried in the chancel of Wliitbm -which had originally been an hermitage, W Church, in the neighbourhood of Hereford. dwelling fora single recluse-and made out of From the time of Dr. Goodwin, down to I 820, all it an alms-housefor poor people, which Ralph the vicars of Heavitree belonged to the Chapter of Duckenfield subsequently endowedwith a house , save in one instance, that of the in Preston Street, the rent of which was to be Rev- Francis Bradsell, 1619-1626. This intimate applied to the maintenance of the inmates. C-'mtion with the mother church of the Diocese endowment has been lost. The rent of a meadow duringthe last seventy years istoo well known to bequeathed to this charity by Anne, relict of mefit more than passing reference. Francis Debina, and, subsequently, wife of Chris- In 1536 the vicarage of 11 Hem,'' with "the topher Manwaring, was long withheld from itt Of St. Sidwell and St. David annexed to but was ultimately recovered and applied to its the same ~mg+sswas valued at ~3710s. z~.p Proper uses by otder of the Court of in mnum. Thornas Valans was then the vicar. the year 1665. .5 2 The Sujurbs of Exeter.

~ ~ ~~ ~~ Itis unnecessary tospeak at length of the and the Dean and Chapter alternately. St. David’s, Churches of St. Sidwell and St. David, since they .. in the gift of the Dean and Chapter, is a titular .I are both includedin the accounts of the city vicarage. Churches to be found in the pages of works which The large MANOROF DIJRY~Dis in the latter treat exclusively of the history of thecity Of parish, and in Saxon times,under the name of Exeter. “Dochorde,” was the property of Alfleta, or AM- .. St. Sidwell’s was rebuilt in 1659, but the ancient hilla, the mother of Earl Morcar. At the period , ::I arcading is a portion of the earlier structure. of the Domesday Survey it washeld, with East St. David‘s Church is first mentioned by Bishop Wonford. by Walter de Osmundville, as sub-tenant Marshal between the years I 194and 1206. It Waa to Ruald Adohat. rebuilt in 1541,upon the ground to the north of the It was afterwards in the Chiseldon family, pm- present entrance to thechurchyard from St. lhvid‘s bably by purchase from Speke, and passed with the ! Hill. and just inside the gateway. Of the present co-heirs of John Chiseldon to Bluett and Wadham. Ugly, uninteresting, and unecclesiastical structw% Roger Bluett, of HolcombeRogus, and John the less said the better. It is to be hoped that it Wadham, of Merifield, CO.Somerset, are shown by will soon bereplaced, in its turn, by an edifice an original lease of property within the manor, more in conmnance with the prevalent ideas as to now in my possession, to havebeen the joint English church architecture. ownersof Duryard Manor on the thifieenth of The Chapel of St. Clement’s, by the river, stood July, 1554- under St David‘sChurch, and close to the Exe. The property was afterwards acquired by a SW- It is mentioned as early as the year 1223,and was cessful Exeter citizen,Thomas Jfird, whowas disused in 1536. The ground on which it stood has knighted by James 11. “for his ingenuity in dyeing been long alienated from Heavitree, and now be- a piece of cloth scarlet on one side and blue on the longs tO the feoEees of St. Petrock‘s. other, and which he presented to the King.” SO chapel is said to have been dismantled in says Jenkins,but Sir Thomas Jdord probably ‘57*1 but Portions of it were still standing late in received his honours for avery different reason. the -teenth century. The long and steep lane By order of Council, dated Whitehall, twenty- which led it hm St. David’s Hill is known as eighth November, 1687, John Snell wasremoved ‘‘ Chapel Lane.” from the mayoralty (together with other municipa until T.mmt years the Vicar of Heavitm officials). and “our trusty andwell-beloved Thomas alwaFaPPo1nted the perpetual of these JefFord, Esq.” was placed in his room, and the usual two churches. St. Sidwell’s is now styled oath was dispensed with. Immediately afterwards a rectO”Y* and is in the patronage of the Bishop Jefford received the honour of kniphthood. Parish (If Zfaviii-ee. 55 54 The Sdurh of Exefw. The ...... -...... - . . -. .. Sir Thomas was evidently of King James’s way The firstperson whosuffered here was John of thinking in the matter of his religious convic- Waltheman, for treason, in 1532, he having been tions, and hence his advancement. He built the convicted of prophesying evil of the King. present picturesque mansion known as Great Dur- Here also were hanged William Horsington, Tho- yard, and died in 1703. mas Hylleard, Thomas Poulton, Richard Reeves, Great Duryard was afterwards the property and Edward Davy (Davies in the Register), Edward residence ofthe Cross family. Francis Cross owned Willis (Willies in the Register), and JohnGiles it in 1822. and after the death of Mr. Coplestone (alia Hobbes in the Register). Theywere all Cross, about the year 1852, the property was divided, buried in St. Sidwell’s churchyard on the seventh laid out for building leases, and is now known of May, 1655,“having been executed at Heavitree.” the “Duryard Estate.” John Haynes had also been left for execution, but Whilst treating of Livq Dole, I have remarked I have no entry of his burial at St. Sidwell’s. thatthe place of execution for the county was These unfortunate gentlemen had been con- removed, in or about the year 1532, to Ringswell. demned at Exeter for participation in the rising This Spot was used for the infliction ofCapital of 1654-5. They were taken prisoners,or rather punishment for more than two centuries after- surrendered under promise of safety, at South Wards. and was situated at the north-eastern end Molton, having just previously proclaimed Charles Of the Parish of Heavitre. It included a grave- 11. at Salisbury, and insulted the judges there. Yard,Which wasgiven by the then Mayor of Two of the principal leaders, Capt. Hugh Grove Exet-, John Petre, in 1557, and whichwas in- and Col. , weresentenced to be chedwith a wall by Joan, widow of John Tuck- hanged, but the punishment was afterwards changed field. Mayor in 1549. to decapitation. They were both beheaded in the The spotWas consecrated onthe eighth of March, Yard on the sixteenth of May, 1655. C-Ve ‘557~bY BishopTurbeville, of Exeter. It W= wasburied in “St. Sidwell’sChancell,” where a to be desecrated and built over in 1827. brass to his memory may still be seen, in the north The stood on a wastepiece of ground aisle. On the following day Penruddock was in- the Western hedge of the field, still called terred inthe Church of St. Laurence,in High “The Gallows,” and the eastern wall of the burial- Street. pund.The boundary hedge was thrown down Richard Wilkins, executed for witchcraft, at by the Owner of the adjoining property, the late Ringswell, July, 1610, was also buried at St. Sid- whoextended his field up to the well’s. Wall ; so that it is now difficult to iden- Cmffith Ameredith,Sheriff of Exeter, 1555. by %&placeatall. his will, dated January, 1556,left lands at ,

C’ The Parish of Heam2ree. 57 _- __. -.... sidford, and , the rents to bc applied in lives in husbandry labour within the parish Of buying shrouds for prisoners, either of the City or Heavitree”; no child to be admitted to participa- county, who might be condemned to suffer death, tion in the charity, and no single woman under the and alx, towards the maintenance of the wallof age of fifty to be appointed, and any widow under the burial-ground, and towards the repair of the the age of fifty to vacate her rooms within twelve chapel, if any should be erer built at Ringswell. days of her husband‘s death. Provisionwas also Shrouds were always subsequcntly provided out of made for appointments, on a vacancy, to be made in this fund, at anexpense of three-and-sixpence each, twelve days, failing which the right of presentation until the use of the place for executions was finally lapsed from the ‘1 heirs of Ducke” to the church- abandoned,when the money was amalgamated wardens andsidesmen, and, failing these, to the with other trust funds under the management of mayor, bailiffs, and commonalty of Exeter. the Chamber of Exeter. In 1704 the rental of the The endowment consisted of a yearly rent-charge Property amounted to AI 18s. per annum. of twenty-six shillings, issuing out of Clist Marsh, BY indenture dated the eleventh of September, in the Parish of Clist St. Mary.Out of this the U16, John Kelly, Esq., lord of the &fanor of Heavi- alms-people were only entitled to a quarterly pay- h,granted to Thomas Valans, Clerk, vicar of the ment of one shilling each. Parish, and others their hein, etc., a parcel of land New trustees were appointed for this charity in sirtY-siX feet by twenty-six, bounded by the King‘s 1655, and again in 1686. leading from Exeter to Wonford on the The churchwardens of Heavitree now fill the south* as a Site for a house to be called the Church vacancies in the alms-houses as they occur. Hous-tO Pray for the souls of the said John, his The trustees of the parish lands pay to the alms- father, and his ancestors. people the sum of eight shillings a year amongst them, being the interest of five pounds, the gift Of Walter Skinner, 1615. The rent of the ‘6 parish field,” contiguous to the highway between Exeter and Topsham, and wn- taining about one and a half acres Of land, is applicable to the poor of Ducke’s alms-hous=. The poor are entitled to the interest of fifty pounds, under the will of Wenman Nut, dated the twenty-fourth of December, 1800. Ann Searle, by her will, dated the twenty-ninth of December, 1810, gave all her pm*Y to Ann Wolland, in trust, to payher debts and funeral expenses, andto give the surplusto such Poor people of the Parish of Heavitree,in such sums and at such times, as she, the said Ann Wolland, CHAPTER ZZZ.-THE PARISH should thinkfitting. Thegross amount of the OF estate amounted to A868 17s. .+d. Si? LEONARD. The gift of part of this estate, which Consisted - -- Of land in and seven deedpolls in the TurnpikeTrust, which realised L599 7s. 4d.v was void by the Statute of Mortmain. The debts, funeral expenses, and other costs in CQnnection with winding up the estate, amounted to L610 13s. 6d., leaving a balance of A258 3s. lodm There was a question as to items in the account in respect of paymentsmade to a certain Mrs. Mitchell, a friend of the testatrix, who had claimed and received in all L440 18s. gd., for an allegd debt for maintenance, clothes, etc., supplied to deeased. and in respect of dilapidations on pro- perty of which she had purchased the reversion in deeased's lifetime. Litigation ensued, andthe trust was, I believe, placed in Chancery. nepoor have now the interest of about kI3* 18s. Id., derived from the original bequest. They have ahthe interestof Spicefs gift of L427 I IS. gd.9 and hdf of the dividends of Collingwood's gift of f;"7 1s. I Id. ; the total income being over twenty- One Pounds a year. The income of the charity land duly vested intrustees now about fifty Pounds a year. An to HeavitreeChurchyard, of the . land lying on its south side, was consecrated by the Of Exeter, August the finq 1891. .. -_.. r?....

..i .. . .-. ..

The Panih of St. L~LWUTG?. 61 60 The SU~UT~of Exctm. -- .- -. of his name, or by Baldwin, the second earl, his the said Avis, added six acres more, lying between the mill leat andthe King’s highway-the Topsham son, most probably by the latter. Road-for the safety of his soul, and that of his Baldwin de Redvers succeeded to the earldom wife Christine, of his mother Avis, his father Nigel, of Devon I 107, and prohably between the years in and Adam, his son and heir, He,with his said I I 38 and I 141, certainly before I I 43, he founded wife Christine, and son and heir Adam, confirmed the Priory of St. James, as previously stated. The this gift by placing it-that is, the “writing” of it site of this priory was nearly on the banks of the -on St. James’s altar, and upon the Book the river, close to the ford over it, and separated only of Holy Evangelists. Witness, “ Augustine,” who by one field or close of land from the south-eastern was third Prior of St. James’s not long after I 157. extremity of the Parish of St. Leonard. The mention of “Avis of St. Leonard‘s.” by the That St. Leonard was a parish at the time the Earl of Devon,proves that the latter hadbeen priory W&% founded is sufficiently evident from the formed into a distinct parish previously to the first of the foundation deeds of the latter, of which establishment of St. James’s Priory. The deed there are three extant. In this deed, Baldwin, the of Baldwin was witnessed by his sons Henry and -‘=l, -‘=l, states that be has founded the monastery of William, and was executed with the consent of his St. James “for the safety of his soul, and for those eldest son Richard. Of his sons and daughters, his parents, and all his The younger son, William, has always hitherto friends”-througb the hand of Robert, Bishop Of been identified with William de Vernon, sixth Earl on the day that he dedicated the cemetery of Devon, whose daughter Mary married Robert Of the monastery. Bishop Robert Chichester occu- Courtenay-amanifest anachronism, occasioned pied the see of Exeter from1138, and Rob&, by similarity of name, and founded probably upon Abbot of , who witnesses one of the the known fact that“William de Vernon” Was three deeds, died in I 145, which is ample evidence in as to the date of St. James’s priory. a younger son of ‘1 Baldwin the Earl.“ But Bald- win was succeeded by his eldest son, Richard, as Badwin endows the priory with certain lands, ‘1 third earl, whose son Baldwin,fourth earl, by Tth *e same liberty and free customs with Alice, daughter and heir of Ralph de Dol. Of BerrY, which I held and hold my Manor of Exeministre”; and usually asserted to have had no issue. had two he adds, by the gift, and at the request of sons-Rkhard, 6Rh earl, who died childless, and St. Leonard‘s, I have confirmed to them I‘ two of was succeeded by his brother William de acres of land in which their mill lest has - been as sixth earl. and the use of the water flowing over Had the latterbeen “son Baldwin,second the land of Avis half.” of Earl,” as hitherto universally stated, then he must To this gifts Stephen of st. Leonard‘s,son of The Parish of St. Leonard. 62 Suburbs of Exeter. _. 63 .. The - -. . have married a lady wholived two generations vowsonof the assignees of Andrew tavington. after him-Mabel de Mellent-and their daughter who had acquired it from nucke in July, 1727, for Marymust have flourishcd two generations pm- Ago. It hadpreviously changed hands for A30, viously to herhusband, Robert Courtenay; besides and in 1825 it was purchased by Samuel Parr, of , for which, the Courtenays would have had no claim to f;3,500. St. Leonard‘swas one of the twenty-eight the “blue on a golden field” which has always been quartered by them in right of Dol. chapels to which Peterde PaIerna, byhis will Through the marriage of Mary de Redvers, dated A.D. 1200, bequeathed an annuity of a penny daughter of William de Vernon, sixth earl, with a year. In the “Taxatio” of Pope Nicholas, 1291, Robert Courtenay, the whole of the Redvers pro- its poverty is referred to, and its value is set down at Sa‘. per annum. pee eventually came into the hands of the latter 6s. family, afier the death of Isabella de Fortibus in In 1536, Charles Pytford,who had been presented in 15~3.by Henry Courtenay, Earl of Devon and 1191, and they thus became patrons of St. James’s , beheaded by Henry VIII.. prioryand had also the andright of was still the Rector, and his preferment was valued Presentation tothe Church of St. Leonard‘s, as - at& 19s. 5d. representatives of the original founder, and their In an estate in the parish of Crediton, of fight to this patronagewas fully established on the 1742 about twenty-five acres, was bought of the Rev. elwenth of June, 1348, upon an enquiry directed John Carwithen for A415, to augment the living. by Bishop Grandisson; consequently Hugh de Of the purchase money, Azo0 was subscribed in Coenay, Devon, presented Walter Earl of POW= the parish and neighbourhood, ,&zoo camefrom to St. Lmmds Rectory on the second of July in that year. the Governors ofQueen Anne’s Bounty, and the remainder was given bv the then Rector, the Rev. After save whenthe Crown interfered during *=. John Weston, had‘already subscribed~I 7 15s. minority of the true patron, the courtmays con- iho to the general fund. tinued Pmtuntil the property of the earldom The tithe-rent charge, as commuted, now stands became divided, through thedeath of Edward, at a year, and there are two and a quarter Earl of Dm,at Pdua in 1556. L164 acres of glebe. &I a year has been added to the The hxvn Presented the following year, then Rectory “from other sources,”according to the the Of st. Leonard’s W= sold to George Diocesan Calendar. who Presented in 1596, after which the Ducke~ The oldchurch of St. Leonard’s,which was aC¶uired the Patronage. Nicholas h&presented taken down in 1831, consisted of chancel and nave, i widow, in 1708. in 167’ h&, md, originally, of a western tower, as show bY John W&Of Larkbeare, p&d the ad- The Parish of St. Leonard. 65 ...... and refuge of a canoness of the -4ugustine Priory the remains of the newel staircase which anciently of Kildare, called Christina Holby, Kildare Priory led to it. Thedrawings of it, which have been having been then lately destroyed by the wild Irish, preserved, shon- that it retaincd manyI

DAlbcrtona~~ [both brought- in by Talbott), St. Clme. the Exeter business. and Collyn of Cornwall. Francis Baring, as is tolerably well known, be- Matthew Hull of Larkbeare, aged 26 in 1550~\”~~ came a barnnet, and wasthe ancestor of the Baring the last of his name at 1 .arkbearc. IIis son George baronets and of the Baring peers. sold the property to Sir Nicholas Smith. and ml- His brother John soon returned to Exeter, where grated to Dorsetshire, having married hiargaret* he acquired a good deal of property at Heavitree, daughter of Walter Ralegh of Fardel, and widow already noticed, and he was also the owner of of his neighbour Laurence Kadford. thegreater portion of St. Ixonard‘s. He estab- The Hulls are now extinct in the male fine. lished a firm known as the Bank, and, Katherine, aunt of George Hull. married Thomas later on, the Devonshire Bank, whichsuspended Pomfrett of Exeter, and had three sons and a paymentin 1820. four years after his death. He daughter. marriedAnne, daughter of Francis Parker and sir Nicholas Smith was the son and heir Of sir cousin of Lord Boringdon, but both his sons died George Smith, ofMadford IIouse, who has been unmarried. His brother Charles was the ancestor already mentioned in connectionwith Heavitwe. of the Baring-Goulds. Larkbeare passed into the hands of the Eastchurch Three years before the failure of the bank, Sir family, some time after the death of the son Of Sn Thomas Baring bought the St. Leonard‘s and Nicholas Smith. It was afterwards in the Laving- Heavitree property *om his cousin John, who tons, and Andrew Lavington owned it in 1714. Probablyforesaw the clouds which were then Two years afterwards he advertised a portion Of lowering over the fwtunes of the elder branch of the oldhouse to be let unfurnished. He UltI- the house of Baring, and thus endeavoured to madY became bankrupt, and then the prop- Provide for them. The Parish of St. Leonard. 68 -The- Sdwbs _-_ of Exeter.------69 Lower Larkbeare, as it is now called, was origi- the Heralds’Visitation of 1620, but who was. nally rented from the Barings by Charles Bowring, witbout any manner of doubt, a younger son of who carried on there the business of a master the Radfords of , since he is entered in tucker, and in 1822 he purchased the property fmm the lists as ‘‘Laurence Radford of Sir Thomas Baring. His son, thelate Sir John Rockbeare.” Bowring, was born in the old house at Larkbe= Having purchased St. Leonard‘s Mount of the in 1792. 171e present mansion, now used as the Hulls, he built thereon a “fayre house and called Judges’ lodgings, is of course a very modem erec- it Mount Radford,” as Sir William Pole tells us, tion. and to this ‘‘ fayre house,” his son Arthur Fbdford MOUNTRADFORD HOUSE,which now gives its succeeded in 1595, his mother having been Marga- name to a very considerable suburban district, ret, sister of thegreat Sir Walter Ralegh, who stands on the high ground opposite St. I-eonard’s became, as I have already noticed, the second wife Church. of her neighbour’s son, George Hull. In the time of Edward 111. the place was known Arthur Radford sold his property to the Clerk of as “St. Leonard‘s Mount,” and the level grounds the Assizes, Edward Hancock,of Combmartin, who Stretching away from the house towards Topsham married Dorothy, daughter of Amyas Bampfylde, and Heavitree were called St. Leonard’sDown.” of , and left her the property. In 1773 there was not a single dwelling bemeen She married secondly Sir John Doddridge, the Mount Radford House andthe residence Judge, who resided a great deal at Mount Radford Until his wife died, in when her life-interest kmwn as Penrose Villa, nor south-west of the 1614, latter to Madford House, which is just within the in Mount Radford expired, and the place had to be of the Parish of Heavitree. sold. Lady Doddridge and her husband are both buried in Exeter Cathedral, under a grand monu- where the City prisoners ’€’he Permanent gallows, ment in one of the chantries the north side Were Wont to beexecuted, stood on the left side Of on of the . The Judge diedin Surrey in &&la Road, a little above the present turning 1620. to COlhF Road, and is the only object marked Nicholas Duck, Recorder of Exeter, purchased On *e Old map of the property, of the daterefed to. Mount Radford in 1614. Although he matriculated at Exeter College, Oxford, as “the son of a ple- pieces cannon were placed in position h of beian,” he carefully entered the name of the said On Mount for the bombardment of Exetss ”3rd “plebeian,” Richard Duck of Heavitree, and when Thomas invested the City in 1643. of si Fairfax Philip Duck, father of the said Richard,in the Mount Radford House was originally built W : Heralds’ Visitation of 1620. Radford, whosename is notincluded i The Z’arrih of St. Leonard 70- Suburbs .. -. -...... -- 71 The- . . . of Exeter. -- made through it, which emerged into thc Nagdalen His brother, , born in 1580 at Ilea+ Road just above the Barnfield. tree, was I‘ Fellow of All Souls;’ Chancellor of the Dioceses of London and of Bath and Wells, and For a short time subsequently to the death of John Baring, the second, in 1816. Mount Radford M.P. for Minehead. He also lent King Charles 1. House was let furnished. After Sir Thomas Baring A6,000 to carry on the War. The portrait of that very worthy man, Nicholas became thc owner, the furniture was sold by auc- tion in 1825; and in 1832, the Hoopars, who were Duck, of Mount Radford, may still be seen in the builders, of Exeter, and others, purchased the park Exeter Guildhall. He died in 1628, and was WC- ceeded by his son Richard, who, living as he did in for the utilisation of their bricks and mortar, and the suburbs of Kxeter, must have had rather a bad thence originated the long terraces of attractive time of it during the Rebellion. for his house and and comfortable suburban residences which we sec to-day. grounds appear usually to have been occupied, for Mount Radford House was purchased by a pro- offensive purposes,by one party or the other. Richard Duck, by the way, matriculated at prietary college company in 1826,but the scheme Wadham College as“the son of an esquire.” didnot answer. Ultimately it became a private school, which was conducted for many years suc- Nicholas Duck, before he purchased Mount Rad- cessfullyby thelate Rev. R. Roper, who was ford, probably resided in the Parish of St. Mary Arches, since Richard, his son, was baptised there succeeded by his son-in-law, the Rev. J. Ingle. Shorn of much of its ancient fame, the old on the fifth of May, 1603. dwelling is nowonce againa private residence, Richard lhck. died in The latter‘s grandson, and the grounds around itare still considerable 1695 withoutissue. His wife Elizabeth, daughter adCO-heir of John Acland, Mayor of Exeter, sur- and attractive. I have prcviously had occasion to remark else- vived until 1722-3, and she presented to the Rectory of St. Leonard‘s in 1708. where that “the custom of giving names to wells After her death the house at Mount Radford was and fountains is of the most remote antiquity.” In bnantd by an Exeter merchant called Hansford. pre-Reformation times, if a well had a remarkable It was subsequently purchased byan eminent Situation, if its waters were bright and clear, or if Quaker, and merchant,John Colsworthy, who it Was consideredto possess a medicinal quality, be=me bankrupt. then Some pious or charitable individual invariably In I755 the property passed into the hands of ’Vent to the expense of enclosing the spring, which John Baring for the sum of LZ,I~.The property thereafter was known by the benefactor’s name, or, now Over, and known as Mount Radford, was usually, by the appellation of some saint to then turned into a park. and a carriage-drive was whom the completed work had been dedicated. The Suburbs Exetw. Thc Z>asish of St. Lemaurd. 73 72- - .- -_- . . -. of . -. . . . .- ...... - --

An ancient well of this kind exists on the right- that occasion was raised to the peerage as Baron hand side of the Wonford Lane, just beyond the Gifford, of Parker‘sWell, in the Parish of St. turning from the Topsham Road, and is within the Leonard, having previously been elevated to the Parish of St. Leonard. It is known as “ Parker’s bench as Chief Justice of the Common Pleas. well,” and its waters have always been celebrated He at length became Master of the Rolls, and as a certaincure for pcrsons afflicted with sore died at the early ageof forty-seven, having married eyes. a daughter of the Kev. Edward Drewe, Vicar of The residence above it, long known as Parker’s . and thus allied himself with one of Well House, wasprobably erected by Thomas our county families. “Collyns,” fourth in descent from John CollingS. a Lady Gifford, whose husband had died at Dover, younger son, by his second marriage withAlice rather unexpectedly, continued to reside at Parker‘s Eveleigh, of Thomas Callings, of Ottery St. Mary, Well House until her own death in 1828, when it whose pedigree is recorded in the 1)evonshire Visi- became the residence of Mr. Wearman Gifird, the tation of 1620. deceased peer‘s brother. Thomas “Collyns,” of Parker’s Well House, was The present Lord Gifford, who is the grandson buried at St. Leonard’s on the tenthof March, 1752. of the first lord, was born in 1849,served for Some His son, Edward Collyns, of Parker’s Well, sur- time in the army, with a commissionin the 5th vived until ,1774. Regiment, and earned the Victoria Cross for his Parker’s Well is chiefly famous as having been conspicuous gallantry in the Ashantee Campaign. the Property and residence of the first Lord The earlier registers of the Parish of St. Leonard Who was the youngest son of anExeter linen- have been lost; those that remain Commence baptisms, 1713 ; marriages, 1708; burials, 1710. draper, a Presbyterian, by hissecond wife, Dorothy i Wearman. ! Theyare none of them originals. Robert Gifford, as an articled clerk in the Office I of Mr. John Jones, an Exeter solicitor, from 17959 I attracted the notice of Mr. John Baring. who be- i friended him, with the result that he was entered as a student at the Middle Templein the first l -. -.- year Of this century, and was called to the bar in i I 808. As *ttornV-General, he was leader of the p* secution in the disgaceful trial of Queen Caroline for alleged adultery, and for hie services on

i’ The Earldom of Dawn. 75 -- ......

Henry died at Thessalonica, in 1217, when his race became extinct in the male line, and therefore his brother-in-law, Pettr Courtenay, together with CHAPTER ZV.-THE EARLDOM his wife thePrincess Yolande, were invited to OF ascend the vacant throne. DEVON. Two of their sons, Robcrt andBaldwin Courtenay, subsequently reigned at Constantinople, from 122I DIGHESSION ON FAMILIES AND A THE OF HEDVEHS until the latterwas ejected by Michael Palceologus COUHTEKAY. I: in the year I 261. But these circumstances do not make our Devonshire Courtenays the descendants -- either of the “Latin Emperors” of their name, or THEfable as tothe “Imperial Origin,” Greek or of their deadly enemy, the Greek “Emperor Pale- Latin, of the Devonshirc , ologus,” as recentlyasserted more than once by =mnot even claim a traditional foundation. but it Writers mho can have had but scant knowledge Of has been so frequently asserted of late years, that medizval history. ,. it has almost assumed the character of an estab- The fabulous descent from Florus, has bcen most I’ lished fact. unfortunately perpetuatedby Camden and Dugdale, The monks of Ford Abbey have stated in their whilst the modern pedigrees of Courtenay probably chartulary, which was compiled about the middle owe most of their discrepancies, and manifest in- Of the fourteenthcentury, and which has been accuracies, to thestatements and suggestions Of pEser\.ed, that of Courtenay, the first of Ezra Cleveland, who had been tutor to Sir William the name in England,was the ‘‘son ofl’rincc COurtenay, of Powderham, and whose genealogical Florus,” and therefom the grandson of Louis le history of thc family consequently appeared \vith Gm% King of France from- 1108-1137. But this some show of authority in 1735 ; since which. the descent bas been longrepudiatcd even by the old errors, usually associated with fresh ones. have Courtenays themselves. been repeated over and over again in local histories It is a well-known fact, however, that Prince and periodicals, and even in the columns of daily peter of France, a brother of the said Prince papers. SO that, with butpassing reference to F1oms, married a certainElizabeth Courtenay, otherauthors, it will be betterto proceed here and assumed his wife’s name, and that their son, M+th what is actually known as to the origin Of the , took to wife Yolande, sister of Courtenays of Devonshire, and to deduce from this Baldwin and Henry, Counts of Flanders, and the knowledge the possible connection between the first Latin Emperors of Constantinople. latter family and the Emperors of Constantinople. The Earl&nb of Dm. 77 - . . -. .. -. .. . . -.. - Ciuienne, then the wife of Henry of Anjou, subse- The first Courtenay on record was “ Atho,” a French Knight, universally admitted to have been quently our Henry II., was the divorced and dis- of nameless origin. who built a castle at Courtenay, graced wife of Louis VII. of France,the eldest a Jmall town in the Gatenois, sixty miles from brother of PrincePeter. Is it therefore at all Paris, early in the eleventh century, and took his probable that the near relatives of the latter could name from his residence. His elder grandson, have been thus associated with her : was certainly Lord of Courtenay Castle, Still, it is unnecessary to question the tradition whilst Josceline, the first Count of Edessa, whose more closely, since it only leads to theknown facts territory extended on both sides of the Eunhrates -that oneReginald de Courtenay, a widower, accompanied by two sons, came toEngland, to seek his fortune, nearly a century after this country In the year I 152, one Reginald de Courtenay, a had been settled by the , and that they widower with two adult sons, came to this country were of sufficient importance, at all events, to at in thetrain of Queen Eleanor, andhe was the Once secure royal protection and patronage, as all indisputable ancestor of the English Courtenays. three of them contracted advantageousmatrimonial The usually accepted accounts as to the origin alliances immediately after the accession of Henry andhistory of thisReginald de Courtenay are 11.. as shonn by the Exchequer Rolls, and other contemporary documents, means of which the merely traditional. He is said ‘1 to haye been the by son Of the aforesaid Milo, grandson of Atho, to Courtenay history from that period has been have married at an earlyage, Matilda, the sister of ascertained step by step. GUY de Donjon, and by herto have been the father Robert de Courtenay, younger son of Reginald. Of Elizabeth de Courtenay, the wife of Prince Peter who has been usually confounded with his nephew of France, and therefore the grandfather of the first, of the same name, married Alice de Romek COUrtenaY, Emperor of Constantinople.” He is also daughter of the north country lord of Skipton, said ‘‘to have given his said daughter theCastle of was Sheriff of Cumberland, and in the y-’ 1209r COUfienaY, and the rest of his French possessions, the said Alice, as his widow, paid a fine to the as a marriage portion:’ Crown for recovery of her dowty. elder son william, married Such being the case, he must have disinherited Reginaldand his his two half-sisters, who were wards of the cmW% and in order to provide for his daughter; and, even then, it was not from thew sons, but from great Devonshire heiresses. although in the daughter, who remained in France, that the pedigrees of the family each has been &a the Wife who properly belonged to the other- Comenays Of Constantinople descended. Reginald, whose second wife’s name is still And it must not be forgotten, that Eleanor of Thc Ea+la‘onl of Umrnt. -- -. ._ 79 One Kreat point in previous efforts to establish preserved in an existing deed,married Natilda, the connection .between theFrench and English younger daughter of ,\laud, Baroness of Okehamp- Courtenays has always been the similarity of their ton in her own right. by her second marriage with armorial bearings, which were apparently, but not Robert Fitz-lrde, a natural son of King Henry I. really, identical. William de Courtenay. as shown by the Ex- The former commemorated intheir arms the chequerRolls, became the husband of his step- current money of old Byzantium {Constantinople), mother’s elder half-sister, .lvis, whose father, for very obvious reasons, and bore “Gules, 3 Robert DAincourt, had been the first husband of bezants”; whilst thc English family have invari- the Baroness of . ably borne ‘‘ Or, 3 torteaux,” a coat which will be William de Courtenay andAvis his wife had shown to have been derived at a much later date issue Robert, their son and hcir, who has been from Redrers, and which is exactly the reverse of usually confounded with hisuncle Robert, as theByzantine coat, and constitutes a perfectly stated above. different bearing,although when carved in stone Avis de Courtenay, being then ‘I wihu’‘ of and uncoloured it would appearto be precisely rfi1lia7lr de Courtenay,died in the year 1209, on similar. the thirty-first of July, and at her death, Robertde The Earldom of Devon was given by Henry I., Courtenay, her son, inherited the Barony of Oke- immediately after his accession to thethrone, to his hampton. Shehad previously succeeded to her “trusty friend and counsellor,” RichardFite- half-sister‘s moiety of thesaid barony, whose Gilbert, brother to that Baldwin de Brion, who had husband, Reginaldde Courtenay,grandfather of married Albreda, niece of , the said Robert, had died on the twenty-seventh of andhad received from his successful master the September, 1194. andthus she wasenabled to richBarony of Okehampton, andthe hereditary leave the whole barony to her saidson. shrievalty of Devon. Robert at one executed a deed in favour of the This Baldwin wasthe great great grandfather OkehamPbn burgesses, which is still extant, and of Avisand Maude, ultimatelyhis w-heirs, and bY which theirprivileges are duly confirmed as the respective wives of William and Reginald thV had themin thetime of “Richard son Of Courtenay. Baldwin” (De Brion), 6‘ Robert son of Reginald” Richard Fitz-Gilber& andhis brother Baldwin. (DAincom), “and Maude de Abrincis his wife.” who were both at Hastings, were the Of and “ Avis of Courtenay my mother:’ Gilbert, Earl of Brion, in Normandy, whose father, deed is witnessed by his uncle, Robert de Godfrey, EUI of owe, was an illegitimate son of ComnaY* sheriff of Cumberland, who must have Richard Le Bon. Duke ofNormandy. and ht died very soon after. BO The Suburbs of Exeter. . -- The Euhrkfinr of Dmm. a1 -...... , . . --...... --- - .- . . -.. .-. . cousin of Richard Fitz-Gilbcrt. son of Gilbert, to the Crown, shortly beforc her death in 1293. officiary Earl of Owe, a natural son of the first Richard, first Earl of Devon,died in the year duke, Richard,Sans Peur,” andthis latter 1107 ; he was succeeded by his eldest son Baldwin Richard Fitz-Gilbert was the ancestor of the House “ de Redvers,” as swond earl. of Clare. The latter. whose wife was also called Adelira or Richard Pitz-Gilbert, first Earl of Devon, who Alice, founded several monasteries, notably those has been more than once previously confounded of Quarr, in the Isle of Wight, and the Priory of with his father‘s kinsman, Richard Fitz-Gilbert of St. James, at Exeter. To the latter he gave, with Clare. was one of the earliest Norman settlers in other property, the Manor of , which his this country,and although he didnot receive at father had held under the Earl of Mortaigne at the first such a large share of the plundered prOpertY time of the Domesday Survey. of the Saxons, as fell to the lot of his brother He had several children, andone of them, a Baldwin de Brion, yet he held six manors, as daughter Xaud, married Ralph de Avenel, whose sub-tenant to the latter, five under the Earl Of claimto the Barony of Okehampton was upset Mortaigne, uterine brother to King William ; two, upon a writ of ejectment. under William the Porter and Ralph de PomeroY, This Ralph de Avenel, who has been hitherto respectively, besides the Manor of Levaton in that given a perfectly erroneous descent, was the son part of the parish of Lpplepen[now Woodland), of William Fitz-Baldwin, son 9f Baldwin de Brion. which was his own demesne in the year 1087. The latter had three sons and two daughters; but He assumed the name of Richard de Ripanis, of these, one son and two daughters only, proved afterwards anglicized into Redvers, or less COm- to have a right to the Barony of Okehampton, and monly, Rivers, and, as I have said, King Henry 1. it is therefore more than probable that the Con- created him Earl of Devon, conferred upon him the queror settled that property upon his niece Albreda lordship of Tiverton, which continuedto be the Ond her heirs, and that William Fitz-Baldwin, the Principal seat of his descendants until the reign Of founder of Cowick Priory, and his brother Robert Queen Mary, and also gave him the great barony Fitz-Baldwin, Governor of Brion, inNormandy. of . were the sons of Baldwin de Brion. by a second He married Adeliza or Alice, daughter and CO- marriage, which he has been always said to have heir Of William Fitz-Osborn, Earl of Hereford, Contracted, although his second wife’s name is still and throughthis marriage he acquired the lord- a mystery. ship Of the Isle of Wight, and his successors were One of the younger sons of Baldwin de Redvers, second Earl of Devon, was known ‘‘William known as “ Earls of Devon and Lords of the Isle ” as until the Countess Isabella sold the latter lordship de Vernon,” so called because he was born at G 82 The Subzdrbs uf Exeter. The EO?~of Dm. - - - .- I- .- Vernon Castle, in Normandy, the seat of his grand- Avis, wife of Sir Hugh Worthe, of Worth, in the father, prior to his arrival in England, and who parish of Washfield. had died in 1107. He witnesses, as “William son Amongst the Normans who settled in this of the Earl.” his father’s deeds in favour of St. county immediately after tho Conquest, were three James’ Priory as early as I 143, and has been in- brothers, Ralph, Reginald, and Robert, who, in all variably confounded with “William de Vernon: probability, first came here with the Conqueror, on 1067, in sixth Earl of Devon,who died in 1217, and h% march westward in the autumn of and whose daughter Mary, married Robert CourtenaY. the immediate train of his trusted follower, William This is manifestly absurd for several reasons, chief de Pollei. amongst them, that the first William de Vernon The Domesday Record shows that, at the period lived threegenerations prcviously tothe said of tho Survey, 1uBo-1086, Ralph and Reginald Robert Courtenay, and it is hardly likely that the were settled at Witheridgc, the latter being lord of latter took to wife a lady who was ContemporarY that manor,under Robert, Earl ofMortaigne, with his grandmother, and if, for any SPCid whilst Ralph was also lord of the manor of Worth reasons, he had been induced to do so, he wdd in Washfield. have naturally expected a speedy release from his “ Worde,” ‘I Weorth.” or Worthe,commonly written Worth, is Anglo-Saxonterm, which matrimonial entanglement. But Sir Robert COW- an signifies enclosed estate. tenay lived until 1242, whilst his wife survived him an many years, is believed to have married again, and Both Reginald and Robert also acquired property it is certain that in her widowhood she at length in I’lymstock, and the greater portion of the lands tOOk the veil and retired to the cloister. Of the three brothers was alike held under De Pollei, Baldwin de Redvers, sccond Far1 of Devon, died who had thus alienated, to sub-tenants, eight, of the twenty-oneDevonshire manors, his royal master on the fourth of June, I 155, at Quam, in the Isle of Wight, and was buried there. had Given him out of the spoil of the conquered Hewas succeeded by his eldest son, Richard de Saxons. Redvers, whose wife is called ‘1 Dionisia,” in a deed Reginald succeeded his brother Ralph atWorth. eldest son,and there, was called after dated I 157. transcribed by Dugdale, and copied by successor oher. This is probably a mistake of the scnbe his otheruncle, Robert, of , and his for Haurisia, or Avis, since she bore the latter Posterity, at first “De Worthe,” or “Dela Worthe,” name, and was the daughter of Reginald, Earl Of in reference to their habitation, ultimately became Cornwall, natural son of llenry I. BY this known as “ Worthe” without the prefix. he had a son and two daughtws-Maud, Who The said Reginald de Worthe received the married william de Romara, . and honmr of knighthood, and Sir Hugh Worthe of The Earldom Qf Dm. a4- The Suburbs of Exetcr. -.- . -- 85 I -_ further issue, when her Manor of King’s Carswell, Worth, was fourth in descent from him. Kt., granted her upon hersecond marriage, retrerted Richard, third Earl of Devon, died in 1162, and to the Crown),succeeded his father (not brother) was succeeded by his son, Raldwin de Kedvers, as Baldwin as fifth earl, but only enjoyed his dignity fourth earl. for a short period. He died,childless, in 1166, This Baldwin de Redvers married Adeliza Or although he had married Emma de Ponte Ache, Alice, daughter and ultimate heir of Ralph de and, perhaps,subsequently, Margaret Uissett ; Doles,sometimes written nalc, of , whose therefore his younger brother (not uncle), William arms were, ‘(Or, a lion rampant azure.” de Vernon, came the title sixth earl. It has been invariably asserted, for someun- to as ThisWilliam de Vernon executed a deed, as accountable reason, that he had ‘6 no issue by herr earl, infavour of his cousin Robert, son of his andthat he was succeededin the title byhis aunt “AvisU‘orthc,” and this deed is sealed with a brother Richard, who also did childless, and thus seal of arms precisely similar to that subsequently the earldomcame tothcir uncle,William of adoptedby Vernon”;but, in addition to the anachronism the Courtenay Earls of Devon, re&., I three roundels,surmounted by a label of three have already explained, the existing armorial e+ points, which have since been invariably blazoned dence assists to refute these statements. It Seems “or, three torteaux, a label of three points azure.” perfectly clear, upon examination, that the fourth William de Vernon, sixth earl,married Mabel, earl, who died almost immediately after his acces- daughter of the Earl of Mellent. and died on the sion to thetitle, left two sons, Richard andWilliam, tenth of September, 12 17. He had three children- and the latter, having been born at Vernon. was Baldwin, who predeceasedhim on the first of known as William de Vernon. September, 1216 ; Joan,who married William The mention by the latter, in dccd relating to a Brewer,of Tor-Brewer, and diedwithout issue; Quam Abbey, of “the Earl Baldwin my fatkm9 and Mary, the wife of Robert Courtenay. Adeliza my mother,and my senior brother Richard” Baldwin de Redvers, son of a father of the same has of course assisted the confusion to iden- as his name, his wife Margaret Fitz-Gerald of Hare- since the William “de Vernon” who witnessed by tity. wood,succeeded William de Vernon, his grand- the St. James’ charterin (two generations 1143 father, seventh earl. He marriedAmicia, PrWiOuSly) was also the son of an Earl Baldwin. as daughter of Gilbert, Earl of Gloster, and died in whose wife was Adeliza or Alice, and he also had 1245. a mior brother Richard. His son, also called Baldwin, thm inherited the SO Richard de Redvers, whose widowed moth@ and became the eighth earl of his name. By married secondly Andrew de Chauvms, and died his Wife, Avis of Savoy, he had an only child, John ... between I 199-IzIb (at Egg Duckland,without The S&rh Exeh. TJae Earldom of Dmm. 87 86-. - of -- ...~.. de Redvers, who predeceased him, and the eighth The Redvers family did not entirely become earl departed this life in the year 1261. extinct with the death of Isabella de Fortibus. His only sister, Isabella de Redvers, had been One branch of the Avenels, the descendants of the second wife of Williamde Fora (commonly Mad de Kedvers, daughter of the second earl, called De Fortibus), eighth , who flourished at Loxbcare, in the male line, until the had died in 1256, leaving issue by her, Thomas de reign of Henry VI. The posterity of Maud, wife Fortibus, his successor, who died unmarried before ofthe Earl of Lincoln, failed in or about 1195, but 1269; Avice, wife of Ingelram de Percy, who died that of Avis. the other daughter of the third earl, a childless widow inher brother’s lifetime; and by her husband, Sir Hugh Worthe, of Worth, in Avelina, wife of Edmund Plantagenet, Earl Of Washfield, held that same property, in the elder Lancaster, who had no family either, and died in male line, until the death, without issue, of the late ‘274. Rev. Rcginald Worth, of Worth, on the twelfth of Atthe death of Baldwin, theeighth earl, his March, 1880, and she still has direct male repre- sister the Countess of Alhemarle, became Countass sentatives, descended from the Worth- of Compton of Devon in her own right, and Lady of the Isle of Pole, in the Parish of Marldon, an estate acquired Wight. by marriage with a co-heir of Sir John Doddes- The latter lordshipshe is said to have ultimately combe, about 1347. and which, with land at Barn- sold to the Crown, and its purchase from her, by staple. derived from Willington, likewise descended Edward I., was declared toParliament in 1301. from Baldwin, second earl, was settled upon a second The allegedamount of the purchase money Was son, already referred to on a previous page. It is Six thousand marks, but the claim was not Set UP shown by family evidences and other records. that until after thedeath of the countess, and thee the final “e” was abandoned by the elder line in have always been strong suspicions that no such the time of Anthony Worth ” of Worth, 1517. It sale really took place, and that the Crown became was continued by the secondhouse, of Compton possessed of this island, which had been the heri- Pole. until long after their migration to Crediton, tage of the Redvers family, in succession to the and was ultimately changed into “y” by John, son Fie-Osborns, since the time of the second earl. by of Georgc Worthe, in the first half of the seven- fraudulent means. teenth century. This John “Worthy” was a The Countess Isabella survived her offspring, and Puritan,and one of theParliamentary Commis- as the* had all died without children, she Was sioners for the County of Devon in 1647. the 1stOf the Redvers line who held possession Of The Courtenays, as descendants of Mary de the Earldom of Devon. She departed this life in Redvers, daughter of the sixth earl, naturally laid the year 1295. claim to the earldom of Devon, and the whole Of aa The Suburbs Exefe?. .. of .- - . .- the Redvers property, upon the death of Countess and the use of them as hereditary annorials was Isabella. confirmed by the heralds to their descendants. Fierce opposition, however, was madeto their It is certain, from seals still in existence, that the claim. The Bishop of heter, Walter Stapledon, Earls of Dcvon,from the time of Raldwin de proved himself their bitter opponent, and for the Redvers. the second earl, down to William de longspace of forty-three yearsthe CourtmaYS Vernon, the sixth earl, possessed and used a seal were notpermitted toassume the title, which which bore the device of a griffin trampling upon remained dormant, until at last, by a peremptory a small animal, like a dog; and the arms, there- order from the Crown, they obtained possession Of forc, which were in after years attributed to these it, on February the twenty-second, 1335. earls, were founded upon this seal, and have since It is difficult to understand why the Courtenay been blazoned ‘1 Gules, a griffin segreant or..’ pretensions should have been so long opposed. That William de Vernon. Earl of Devon, had a Since a female had held the earldom, in the seal of his own, with a device similar to the arms person of Isabellade Fortibus, the descendants now home by the Courtenays. “Or. three torteaux, of another female would naturally claim to succeed a label of three points azure,” is also quite certain, her; but had William de Vernon been the person ils explained above. genealogists have hitherto made him, and had the Thereis no evidence that either of the seals third earl left, as assertedhitherto, two issueless I have described were used b,y their owners for ay sons, then Lady Avis Worthe, or her son. Robert, other purpose thanto confirm their deeds and would have succeeded thelast of these. and charters; but we are told by one old historian that William de Vernon and his posterity would never Richard de Redvers, the fifth earl, took for arms have inherited at all. “the blue lion,”which was clearly derivedfrom It was not until the latter portion the reign “Doles” or “Dale,” and, as it is sufficiently evident of of “Alice, daughter and heir Henry 111. thatheraldry became reduced to a now that his mother was science, and prior to this, although armorialensips of Ralph de Doles,” he very probably may have adopted her badgeor cognisance, although. accord- Were fresumtlyassumed and used, and appear ing to prevalent heraldic laws, he had real upon Seals of early date, yet they were generdlY no tight to do so in his said mother‘s lifetime. SO assumed arbitrarily, and were not of necessitY hereditary. According to the 6‘ Pedigrees of Nobility ” (MS. Harl. 1441). Richard’s great-grandson, who sur- In after ages. however, thecharges upon old vived until 1261,first assumed this Coat of Dol-, seals Were Very offen taken as evidence of ancient “ Or, a lion rampantazure“; and this is very mat amour. and charges were attributed, these probable, because during the latter portion of this real amorials, to people who had been long dead, The Earldom of Dm. 91 90 .- - . - .- ...... -.. . .-...... -...... earl’s lifetime the science of armory was much the municipality of Okehampton, and which hare studied, and such ensignshad then become, OT been assigned to Baldwin de Ilrion. the first Baron were fast becoming, hereditary. Of Okehampton and the pat-great-grandfather of It is possible that William de Vernon adopted the said Robert’s mother, Avis-“Chequy or and the seal, similar to the present Courtenay arms, to azure, over all two bars arg.” denote his affinity to Geofky de Bouillon (for which Robert married, as I have said, Mary, youngest reason, Gibbon suggests, the Courtenaysthemselves daughter of William de Redvers, of Vernon, sixth Earl of Devon, and the of his mother’s family adopted themj, who is said to have bornethese arms arms inthe Crusade in which he was famous. AS for -his assumption of which clearly shows that in 1209 he hadno knowledge of any armorials to the“label,” it has been invariably used to diu- tinguish the eldest son, or elderline, since the which he was entitled on his father’s side, that is. fourteenth century, but labels constantly appear, as in right of Courtenay-are on the right, or dexter in the case of William de Vernon’s seal, early in side of the seal, space being lefton thesinister the thirteenth, and in the earliest examples they side for his wife’s arms, the marshalling of which should at that period have been effected by “dimi- were not intended as a mark of . ‘Ihe label diation.” the sinister side of the shieldon is simply a representation of the iron prongs, Or But thisseal is left feet, “lambels,” which were attached to the Crosses perfectly blank, which proves further, that his wife, Mary, had not then adopted carried by pilgrims, that they might erect them in any device, heraldic or otherwise, although a seal of the ground without any difficulty at their various her mother-in-law, Avis de Courtenay. exhibits the haltingplaces; and therefore it was naturally figure of a woman standing, which, however, has adopted bythe Crusaders as a cognizance, on no armorial significance. account of its association with the great emblem Robert Courtenay had two brothers, william of the faith. and Reginald. He served the officeof Sheriff Of From the time of William de Vernon, 1217, we Devonin 1232, and was also Sheriff of Oxford. hearnothing more of the label on hisseal until He died at his Manor of Iwerne Courtfenay, County the year 1335. Dorset, on the twenty-sixth of July, and his Robert 124% Courtenay, grandson of Reginaldde body was brought to Devonshire and was interred Courtenay, succeeded. as I have said, to the Barony at Ford Abbey. of Okeharnpton at the death of his mother, Avh His widow. who ultimately inherited the property wkbw Of William Courtenay, on the thirty-first Of of her sister, Joan de Briwere, is said to have July, 1209. He used a seal of arms, as shown by married a second husband, Peter Prous, of his charter tothe burgesses of Okehampton, already , but there is no absolute evidence of this. referred to, precisely similar to those now borne by 92 The Suburbs oj Exefer. The Eardonr oj Dewan. -- ...... -...... , .. .93 It is certain, however, that she wasfor many years authorities, both in this county and elsewhere. a widow, professed as a nun, and became Abbess distinctly declined either tu pay him the “dues,” Of @arr, in the Isle of Wight, which had, at first, or to recognize thc title of Earl of Deron, which he a nunneryadjacent to the abbey. She was sub- had ventured to assume, so the dignitywas virtually sequently Abbess of Pratelles, in Normandy, with dormant for more than forty years. which her mother‘s family, the Jiellents, were con- By his wife Agnes, daughter of Lord St. John, nected. he had four sonsand two daughters, and. the Sir Robert Courtenayleft very little personal second of his sons, Sir Hugh Courtenay, married Property. By Mary, his wife, he had two Sons Margaret de Bohun, daughter of Humphry, Earl of and a daughter; the latter, called Avis, after her Hereford, and granddaughter, through her mother grandmother, was married to John Neville. He was Elizabeth Plantagenet, of King Edward I. succeeded in the Barony of Okehampton by his This marriage naturally increased the Courtenay eldest son, John Courtenay, who married IsabeW influence at Court, YO on the twenty-second of daughter of Hugh de Vere. Earl of Oxford, died in February, 1335, the aforesaid Hugh Courtenay, 1273, and was buried at Ford Abbey. Baron of Okehampton, became Earl of Devon, by Sir Hugh Courtenay, Knight, their son and heir, virtue of a peremptoryorder from the King, born 1250, took to wife Eleanor. daughter of H@ Edward HI., and whichwas addressed to the De Spencer. She died in 1.238, and her husband Sheriff of Devon, from the Court then at Newcastle- Was laid by her side in the conventual church of upon-Tyne. He died in 1340. Cowick, February, 1291, just previously to the His eldest son John Courtenay had been admitted death of Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon into Holy Orders at Crediton, on the twenty-third and Albemarle. of March, 1313, although his reasons for having Hugh de Courtenay, his eldest son, had been adopted the clerical profession have always been born in 1275. and duly succeeded to the Barony Of incomprehensible. He had become Abbot of Okehampton, and, immediately upon the death Of Tavistock in 1334, but he is described a having the said Isabella de Fortibus, hetook possession Of been throughout his career, “very vain and much Tiverton Castleand of the rest‘ of the Redvem addicted to dress,” and to some other more repre- Property, as heir of his great-grandmother, Mary, hensible “ pomps andvanities of this wicked he then, throughher, the representative Of world.” Redvers, of Vernon, sixth Earl of Devon; He permitted “feastingand revelry” in the and he also laid claim to the earldom. private chambers of the Abbey, and, as shown by But, as I have saidalready, his claim to our Episcopal Registers, he was more than once this dignity met with much opposition, and the censured bythe Bishop of Exeter, for riotous T he EarldomThe of Denon. 95 94 The Suburbs of Exefm. .. - - .. . __ ...... -. ._ -- ___...... - living, and he involved thc community over which Courtenay, of Godlington, who had also died in his he presided, to the extent of over an fathef s lifetime. LI,~OO, This Edward, born in 1357, was Admiral the enormous amount in those days. of King’sFleet, and some time Earl Marshal He survived until 1349, and upon his father‘s of England. He subsequently had the misfortune to death, he succeeded, nominally, to the Barony Of lose his eyesight, and is known in history as the Okehampton, but he was passed over in the SW- “blind earl.” cession to the liarldom, which was conferred upon Genealogists have held divided opinions asto hisbrother Hugh, whose wife, Lady Elizabeth the mother of his children, since Mills has stated Bohun, was the king’s cousin. that his wife was Eleanor, daughter of the Earl of This illustrious Peer, one of the original Knights March; and Brooke, Herald (than whom there of the Garter, had a large family. cannot be a more untrustworthy authority, since he His sixth son, Sir Philip Courtenay, was seated would have said or written anything that first oc- at Powderham. which estate had been his mother’s curred to him in opposition to Vincent or Camden). dowry. He builtthe castle there,early in the agrees with Mills. reign of Richard 11. But the Roll of Parliament, first Edward IV.. Another of the sons, William,became Arch- shows conclusively that “Eleanor, second daughter bishop of Canterbury. of Roger Mortimer, died childless,” andother Another, Sir Peter, was Constable of Windsor, evidence, of equal value, goes to prove that she grand standard bearer, and chamberlain. He died was never the wife of the earl, who was two gene- in 1405, and lies buried in Exeter Cathedral. rations her senior, but of his young son Edward, The Earl’s eldest son, Sir Hugh Courtenay, born who predeceased him. 1327, was summoned toParliament, as Baron There was once armorial evidence at Tiveiton, Courtenay, in 1371. He left a son Hugh, who which confirmed the marriage of the earl, as set marriedMatilda, daughter of Joan Plantagenet, downin most of the pedigrees of his family, to daughter of Edmund, Earl of Kent, by her second Matilda,daughter of Thomas LordCamoys, but husband, ThomasHolland. Her third husband shecan hardly have been the mother of his was the Black Prince. children, since the eldest of these, Edward, was But both Lord Courtenay, ad his only so% knighted in 1399, and the second of them, Hugh. Predeceased the earl, who, in consequence of the who succeeded to the earldom, was “aged thirty failure of his grandson’s issue, was succeeded at at his father‘s death,” and must therefore have his death, in 1377, by another grandson, Edward been born in 1389. CO-naY, elder brother of Sir Hugh CourtenaYs Matilda Camoys, without any doubt a second Of Haccombe and Boconnoc, and son of Edward Th8 ~udrrcdu?n The Sz4burbs Exctrr. . .. cf DFVOII. 97 96- of - -.. .. wife, and very much her husbands junior, survived his immediate departure from these shores. During the whole of the twenty-five years of his the earl forty-eight years,and died in 146i. as reign he was reduced to the direst extremities for proved by the 1‘ lnquisition ” taken afler her want of money. He dissipated the whole of the decease-seventh Edward Xo. 4. lV., residue of his grandmother’s dowry,which had The second son of the ‘I blind earl,” Iiugh COUP come into his hands, until he had literally nothing tenay, succeeded his father on thefifth of December, left but the Marquisate of SAmur, and the Lord- 1419. IIe was also adistinguished naval officer, ship of Courtenay, both of which he endeavoured and Lord High Steward of England. 1Ie married to alienate. a daughter of the Lord Talbot, and was f0UoWd But Louis IX. objected very strongly to the sale by his son, Thomas, in142-2, who married hlwPret of Courtenay Castle, and it mas ultimately annexed Beaufort. to the royal demesne. Baldwin, however, contrived Up to this time, through all thc long period Of to obtain a considcrable sum from his royal kins- two hundred and seventy years, the English COW- man, which he frittered away in useless expeditions. tenays had been uniformly fortunate, whilst those When in his palace at Constantinople, he tore of their name in France had been equally notorious down neighbouring houses, in order that he might for their miseries and troubles. use their matcrials for winter-fuel; and he stripped Peter of Courtenay had,as we ha\-e seen, ascended the lead from the roofs of the churches, in order to the throne of Constantinople in I 2 I 7, but two yeus provide for his daily expenses. later he had died in captivity, and during the SW- He at length raised some small loans, at usuri- ceding years, anduntil their final expulsion in ous interest, from the Italian merchants, and at 12-61, his sons had certainly done nothingto redeem that time “pledged” his son and heir Philip, who the prestige of their family. was left at Venice as security for the debt. Theshort reign of Robert de Courtenay, the Constantinople was richin “relics,” and, after eldest of these, was little but a record of calamity one ortwo previous redemptions, the “Holy Crown and disgrace. of Thorns” was finally sent to Paris in exchange His brother Baldwin, associated during his for a sum of ten thousand silver marks. minority with John of Ilrienne, ruled alone after “A large and authenticportion of the true Cross; the year 1237, and thenimmediately commence the baby-linen of theSon of God; the lance, that “remarkable series of mendicant progresses sponge, andother instruments of thePassion; which haverendered hisname memorable. He the rod of , and a portion of the skull of came to Englandon two occasions, but onhis St. John the Baptist,” soon rejoined their ancient first visit he was stopped at Dover, and received a companion, the ‘6Crown of Thorns,”in its new Present of seven hundred marks, on condition of H 9s Tkc Swburls-. .of . . Emfr.. .. -- - resting-placc in thc Gallic capital ; and the money tenay, in I 730 ; and the title of (I Princess of the received for them was unfortunately quickly spent. Blood Fhyal,” which had been assumed by Helene Such a state of things could not last for ever: de Courtenay, Marchioness de Beaufremont, was the Latins were cncompausd on every side, and in suppressed by an edict of the Parliament of Paris, 1261 Michael Palaologus marched into Constanti- on the seventh of February, 1737. nople, andthe Emperor Baldwin de Courtenay And these revemes of the French Courtenays fled to Italy, whcrc hc died in 1274. had long cast a sort of melancholy halo around The line of thc Counts of Edessa hadfailed with their name, when Thomas, Earl ofDevon, suc- 1422. that Joscelin de Courtenay, whohad ‘1 ranishcd” in ceeded his father at Tiverton in and with him the fall of Jerusalem, andhis namc, as Gibbon began a succession of misfortunes for the English tells us, had been lost hy the marriages of his t\VO house, which may indeed be said to have lingered daughters “with a French and a German baron.” with it ever since, and which supports the prevalent As for the many younger descendants of Prince idea as to the repetition of history. Peter and Elizabeth Courtenay, his wife, they all This Thomas, Earl of Devon, being allied to the sank lower and lower in the social scale, and after family of Beaufort, was naturally devoted to the the dcath of Robert, Great Butlcr of France, they intercsts of the . He died at passed, from , to barons. the Abbey of Abingdon, from the effects, as it is Thenext generations were amalgamated with believed, of poison, whilst in attendance on Henry the simple gentry of Tanlay and of Charnpignclles. VI., on the third of February, 1458, at a meeting which had been arrangedin the vain hope of Some were soldiers, and some, those of the branch of Dreux, were merely of the condition husband- decting a reconciliation between the adverse of partie.. men or paupers. . They kept up their traditions, however, in one Or His eldest son, also called Thomas, held the earldom but three years. He was taken prisoner other of their branches, and on theaccession Of the Bourbonsthese strenuously asserted the mydV at the bloody , and was immedi- ately afterwards attainted and executed, his head of their descent, and,one of themhaving been being set over the gatesof York. accused of murder, in 1616, claimed to be tried as His brother, Henry, never succeeded to the title, a ‘l prince of the blood.” as the was not removed, yet Edward IV. All their petitions, however, were scornfully re- permitted him to enjoy a portion of the family jected, one after the other, by the French govern- property, as a means of procuring his adherence ment, andtheir “hopeless pursuit ofmod- the Yorkist cause.. honours” was terminated the decease of the to But Henry retained the by principles of his father last male of their name, Charles Roger de coot- and brother, engaged in a IW The Suburbs of Exetcr. IO1 - ...... -. . . conspiracy against the King, and was beheaded at shut himup in the Tower, “to him out of Salisbury, on the fourth of March, IJbb. harm’sway,” and in the Towerhe, and his son Then wasgiven to IIumphry and grandson, practically resided, as prisoners. Stafford, of Southwick, who was created Earl of For although the Princess Katherine, or, as princesses were calledin those days, the Lady Devon on the seventeenth of May, 1470, buthe was beheaded by his own party for desertion, three Katherine, was the youngest sister, yet, as the children, the months subsequently. intermediate sisters had no Cour- tenays came very near to the succession to the JohnCourtenay, youngest brother of Henry, of the earldom, and estates Crown. So in the Tower Sir Williamremained, regained possession all through thc reign the first Tudor monarch. pertaining to it, during the temporaq restoration of of the Lancastrians, but he fell, sword in hand, at Henry VIII. released his uncle from captivity, and intended to restore him to the earldom, which Tewksbury, together with his kinsman, the Second hc hadforfeited by his attainder. The letters Courtenay of Boconnoc, on the fourteenth of SiaY, patent were made out for this purpose on the tenth 1471. Thus the three brothers and their Cousin of May, 15 I but he never ‘l invested,” and he sealed their fidelity to the Red Rose,and thus I, was died at Greenwich, of pleurisy, within a month of expired the line of Edward Courtcnay, “ the Blind that date. Earl.” By the express commands the King, he Immediately after the Battle of 13osworth, Henry of was buriedwith the honourvof an earl, to which restored the estates to Edward, grandson Of WI. dignity his son Henry, the King’s first cousin, suc- Sir Hugh Courtenay, of Haccombe and Boconnoc~ ceeded, and the latter was further elevated to the brother the blind earl, and who was therefore of Afarquessatc of Exeter, on the eighteenth of June, heir-at-law. He was created Earl of Devon by 1525. Fourteen years afterwards he was attainted, patent, “to him and the heirs male of his body: On imprisonedin the Tower, and beheadedon the the twenty-sixth of October, 1485. ninth of June, 1539. This earl married his cousin, Elizabeth, daughter His mother, the Princess Katherine, usually re- Of Sir Philip Courtenay, , and was the of sided either at Colcombe Castle, in the Parish of father of Sir William cowtenay. created a Knight Colyton, or else at Tiverton Castle, often in great of the Bath at the coronation of Henry VII. Poverty. There are still traditlons in Devonshire This SirW1UiamC~enaytook to wife Katherine as to the ‘‘quiet, proud, gentle lady.” who used to mmtagenet, daughter of King Edward lv. and walk about Tiverton with her little daughter Mar- YounGSt sister Elizabeth, King Henrfs qu*n- of VII. garet, who, folks say, was choked by a fishbone in It was a most unfortunate marriage ; Henry *51& and lies buried at Colyton. became jealous of his brother-in-law, and This tradition is supported by an inscription on Prisoner, during the remainder of his reign. and the tomb at Colyton, of much laterdate, which there he continued all through that of Edward VI. sets forth that the said “Alargaretwas the daughter When Mary came to the throne shewas at once of William Courtenay, Earl of Deuon, andthe attracted by the personal appearance of her young Princess Katherine, and that she diedat Colcornbe, kinsman, then twenty-six years old. The portraits choked by a fishbone, Am. 1512. Of him still extant show that he must have been of But Margaret Courtenay is mentioned in the wiIl tall andslight figure, with a typical Courtenay of her grandfather, which was proved in the Pre- face, and that he had a very plentiful supply Of rogative Court of Canterbury on the eleventh of natural light brown hair. July, 1509,and this lady is also mentioned by her During the whole of his unhappy life, he had mother in a documcnt dated 151I (3rd Henry scarcely enjoyed two years of liberty, until the VIII.), and signed “Kath. Devonshire,” in which Queen first saw, and loved him; but Mary was shestates that Margaret, herdaughter, is now eleven years his senior, whilst her sister, who came above thirteen years of age, and that she proposes with her to the Tower, was then only twenty yea- “to procure for her a fitting marriage.” of age ; it can scarcely be wondered at that Cour- This was found for her, in the person of *IenrY, tenay, whilst paying, as in duty bound, the greatest hrd Herbert. eldest son of Charles Somerset, I%d deference to theQueen, secretly preferred Elizabeth. Of Worcester; and she was living at Richmond, in so that, although Mary at once restored him to attendance on the infantPrincess Mary, on the hisestates and created him Earl of Devon, “to second of July, 1520. She died before her husband, him and his heirs male for ever,” on the third of dmmarried, secondly, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir September, 1553, he seems to have carried on a Anthony Browne. Private flirtation with Elizabeth. and to have actu- SO we can only conclude that the inscription at ally pledged his faith to her. Colyton is a mendacious inscription, and was in- Mary was indeed angry when she heard Of this vented to Support the tradition about 1‘little choke- intrigue with hersister: had she not been, she bone.” as the “natives” call her, and which, like could scarcely have been her father’s daughter; many other traditions about the Courtenays, can andher indignation waq increased by the rising have had no foundation in fact. of the Carews in Devonshire, and by the accusa- Edward Courtenay, the only surviving son of the thsof Sir Thomas Wyat. of Exeter, by his second wife, Gertrude SO Courtenay and Elizabeth were both BIOant, daughter of the Lord Mountjoy, was only mitted to the T0tve, and the earl saved himself Ye- old at the time of his father‘s execU- by repudiating any idea of serious intentions * tion. TheKing kept him in the Tower, a close wards the princess. 104 The Subrrrhs If Exetcr. The Earldom of DLW. 105 -.. .- - ___ ... . lfary never disgraced him, but she declined to married Bridget, niece of the aforesaid Sir Regi- see him again ; and Elizabethdetestcd the very nald llohun, Hart., andtheir great-grandson, name Of Courtenay ever afterwards. Robert Arundell, was the last male of this branch The unfortunate youth askedpermission to travel, Of the Arundell family. His representative, Eliza- and this was accorded him by the Queen. He went bcth Lydia, wife of Mr. W. H. Shippard, declared through France to Italy, and ultimately arrived at herself to he the“senior co-heir of the line of Padua, where he died, on the fourth of October, Edward, Earl of Devon.” 1556. It has been always believed that he was “John Vivian the younger” was the son of John poisoned on suspicion of being a Lutheran. Vivian and of Elizabeth, eldest daughter and co- -at his death, the estates at Tiverton, Okehamp- hcir of Thomas Tretherffe, who was the grandson ton,and elsewhere, were divided amongst the of John Tretherffe and of his wife, Elizabeth Cour- representatives of the four daughters of Sir Hugh tenay. The latter is called, in a pedigra? entered Counenay, of llaccombr? and Roconnoc, the nieces at Heralds’ College, 1551, “first daughter of Hugh Of Edward, theBlind Earl.” Courtenay.” John Vivian was the ancestor of Sir BY an hq. p.il.,3rd and 4th Philip and Mary, V. D. Vyvian, Bart., of ’rrelowarren. these Were found to be “Reginald Mohun, tllexan- “lfargaret, wife of Richard Buller,” was younger der Amdell, John Vivian the younger, Alargaret, sister of Elizabeth Vivian, and therefore the other Wife of Richard Buller, and John Trelawny.” co-heir of Thomas Tretherffe. She married, first. “Reginald Mohun” was great-great-grandson of Edward Courtenay, of Wotton, by whom she had william Mohun. of Hall, and of his wife, Isabel1 a son Peter,ancestor of the Courtenays long Of CourtenaY. In thepartition of property he acquired Landrake.Through her second marriage with , and two-fourths of its manor. “Richard Buller,” of Tregarrick, she became the He was Created a in 1612, and his son, Sir ancestress of the Bullers of Shillingham and John Mohun. was raised to the peerage, as Baron Downes; and General Sir Redvers H. Buller, V.C., ‘*Ohun Of Okehampton, on the fifteenth of April, K.C.B., of Downes, is tenth in direct descent from 1628. her. “John Trelawny ” was the great-grandson of a Trelawny of the same name, by his wife Florence Courtenay;their mamage settlement is dated 1468 (8th Edward IV.). He married Anne Resky- mer. and was the grandfatherof John Trelawny, Of Trelawne, created a baronet on the first of JUlY, 1628. The present baronet is thirteenth in desetmt The EaEortdom of Dmon. 107 - - -. .. . Ucvon, and he it was who is said tn have dram his sword upon the judge at Exeter, and to have threatened to I‘ make his Lordship’s body as red as his scarlet gown.” His first wife, and the mother of his family, was Elizabeth, daughter of Henry, Earl of ; and he lived all through the reigns of Elizabeth and James, and far into thatof Charlcs I. For a good many years of his life he resided in Ireland, as one of the “undertakers” for the settle- ment of that country. He obtained a grant of Newcastle. with a large quantity of the confiscated land of thc Earl of Ilesmond,and thus laid the foundation of the great Limerick property which has since been enjoyed by his descendants. He died in 1630, and never made any attempt tO recover the earldom. It is not clear that he knew anything about his right to it. The estates, which had descended with it from the commencement Of the twelfth century, had been dispersed, as I have shown, amongst Mohuns, Arundells, Tretherffe% and Trelawnys, and their descendants : and Elk- beth had a rancorous hatred for the memory Of the last earl. It is true that the Powderham property and its dependencies would haveamply supported the dignity of the ancient title, had Powderham’s lord acquired it ; but this he failed to do, and James 1.- upon his accession, made Charles Blount, Lord Mountjoy. Earl of Devon, by patent. on the WentY- first of July, 1603. This creation, however. fom- nately became extinct again in 1606. Sir William’s son. Francis, predeceasedhim- l%e EurMom of Pm. - ...... 109 the possession of its present owners; and nothing can be more singular than have been the vicissi- tudes of the Courtenay race, in its three lines of Edessa, of Constantinople, and of England. Whether the latter branch has any real connection with the two formar, matters little now; the English Courtenays do not require the proof of such a con- nection to addlustre totheir name, which long since became identified with the history of England, first as Barons of Okehampton, then as Earls of Devon, and as soldiers, as statesmen, as Royal councillors, as prelates. and as mates for the daughters of our proudest English nobles and fur Royalty as well. The fortunes and misfortunes of theEnglish Courtenays are equalled only by those of their Frenchnamesakes; but, unlike the latter, the former have always been enabled to stem the tide of adversity, and to keep themselves on the sur- face of the most troubled waters. Often indeed ..* have they been made to realise the signification of their famous motto, ‘1 Ubi lopsus guii feci?’ but their falls have hitherto been invariably the pre- Cursors of fresh splendour, and, like Phenix, they have “revived from their ashes” to continue the nobility of their illustrious name. And they have always been popular with their fellow-men, always easy and light-hearted under the most depressing conditions of their varied fortunes; ever given, each inhis generation, to hospitalityand to acts of neighbourly kindness. “Truest friend and noblest foe.” To their most recent troubles it is unnecessary to

r The Earldom of Zlmoon. 111 110 Tltc Suburbs Ilxdcr. x -_ - -. -. -- - ____ 4 invariablyto his mother’s ancestor, kddwin of do more than rcfer. The causes of them are \dl known and widely regretted, and they sadly em- Brion. And \VC have also seen that Rilliam de \‘ernon, bittered the lives of the last two peers. Let US sixth Earl of Devon, was the son of the lady dm hope that brighter days arc in store for their SW- cessors, andthat , the ancient brought in the “blue lion,” and that he sealed with a seal of arms precisely similar in appearance to the dowry of a king’s grand-daughter, will long con- arms [Jf the French Courtcnaya, saw for the label, tinue to bethe home of a Courtenay Earl of Devon. although in reality it was quite dissimilar; but in The arms of the Courtcnays, as at present borne those days no means had been invented to express by them, should be thus blazoned: “Quarterly 1st tinctures otherwise than by the use of actual COlOUrS, and 4th Or, 3 tortcaux,” assumed to be for COW- and the latter could not be shown upon a seal. tenay ; ‘‘ 2nd and 3rd Or, a lion rampant azure,’’ Noreover, the seal of William de Vernon, which assumed to be for Kedvers. he used as Earl of Devon, had, in addition to the A few further remarks as to these arms appear three roundels, a label of three points. to be absolutely necessary. So that the seal of William de Vernon may be The primitive bearing the Courtenays is known of blazoned. as thearms of the Devonshire COUrtenaYS to have been “Gulcs, 3 bezants,” and these were evidently borne by the Courtenayemperors in werc affenunrds emblazoned. William de Vernon’s elder brother, Richard, is virtue of their connection with old Byzantium, said to have been the first to use the ‘I blue lion.” afhwards known as Constantinople. According to modemheraldic idea% hehad no But it has, I think, heen conclusively shown that right to do SO, without special license. and merely the English Courtenays could not have inherited because his mother was an heiress, since he F- arms from their French namesakes, even if Eliza- deceased her. William de Vernonhimself only beth Courtenay was really the daughterof Reginald, survived his mother about twelve months, and his as she is SUPPoscd to have been, because it Was eldest son predeceased him. Elizabeth Courtenay’s son who was the Cour- first But if the seventh earl had inherited, or adopted, tenay Emperor of Constantinople, and assumed his grandfather’s seal, he would, according to mo- these -S as Emperor, and the Devonshire Cour- dern usage, have borne, ‘1 Quarterly I and 49 or, 3 tenaYs are certainly not descended from Elizabeth Courtenay’s son. torteaux, a label of three points atUre-Rdve=; 2 and 3, Or, a lion ramp. azure--DolSS. We have seen that Courtenay, Robert The griffin, long used by the Redvers family the husband Of Redvers, was ignorant of hi5 their seals, was merely a device, and it W85 abn- ;. 1 to any arms of this description, and that he doned entirely abut the end of the reign of King ;‘i With -0ridS which have beem ascribed : .: /I:i . .I.! .I .I

%.U 112 1xc Sdurbs lfl LxL.~L.Y. . -. .. -

John ; andalthough tht: griffin seal may haw First-Atho, the Frenchknight, founder, and passed from fatherto son, yct it clikappeare~lso seneschal, of Courtenay Castle, impaling a blank soon, that it is improbable that it \vas ever 100kd shield. upon as an hereditary armorial ensign. The stat.?- Second-Joscehe, son of Atho, impaling Mant- ment of the heralds of a much later date, that it gomery. was so used, wab merely an heraldic assertion, Third-Milo de Courtenay, son of Josceline. im- founded upon the dcvice on the seals whichare paling Nevers. still extant; and similar assertions, as to thk? armS Fourth-Reginald de Courtenay, the asserted son borneby , and other illus- of Milo, impaling a blank shield for Donjon, his trious people who flourished at a wry much earlier first wife. period than he did, and at a latcr period also, may Fifth-The sameReginald de Courtenay, im- most of them be traced to a similar origin. paling Arg. five chevronels gules (D’Abrincis), for It is very improbable that Robert de (:ourtcnay his second wife, Matilda Fitz-Ede, daughter and or his immediate posterity ever used the arms nO\v CO-heir of Maud D’Abrincis. borne by his descendants ; and his wifc was not an Sixth-France, within a bordure engrailed gUleS, heiress, but merely what is known to genealogists impaling Elizabeth Courtenay, asserteddaughter as an “ eventual heir.” of Reginald. AS they now appear, thearms Of The high tomb in Exeter Cathedral has a series Peter of France are emblazoned, Azure. 3 fleurs de of coats of arms, which surround its base, and lys or, a bordure engrailed gules. which exemplify the usually received account Of These, theboidure excepted, arethe modern the descent of theEnglish Courtenays fromthe arms of France, which were not used by the French Frenchknight, Atho. This tomb, however,is monarchs, prior to thesecond half of the fourteenth quite valueless for all purposes of real evidence, as century, when Charles V. thus limited the number it was not erected until after the death of Hugh of the lilies. Their limit in the present instance, Courtenay, the second car1 of his name, and however, may have been intended as a mark of dedicated in 1381. His wife, Margaret (De Bohun!, cadency, which was occasionally effected by a died at Powderham, on the sixteenth of Decernbm, similar suppression, although, more usually, by an 1391. addition, of charges. The bordure is an undoubted The tomb originally stood in the nave, but has indication of cadency, but the tincture. gules. with now been removed to the south . The MW , the field bzure, is unusual. although the dethat Of shields commences on the north side, and runs interdicted ‘‘co~o~~rupon colour,” was not invari- from east to west. The jrd shie&!r alike &Of ably followed by foreign heralds ; but on the whole ‘‘ Or, 3 &&aux:’ fw cow-, tirc/ured ita the I thinkthat Prince Peter‘s shield has Suffered colmvs. &* 1 ! ! I I4 The Suburbs (y Ex4.r. .. -. . The Earldonr Dm. - of ...~ . 115 considerably from more than one ‘I restoration.” herited arms, by royal license, at the present day; Seventh-William Courtenay, son of Reginald. and the arms thus assumed were, <‘Or,3 torteaux, impalingthree (should be fivej chcvronels gUleS, a label of 3 points azure,” for Rca’vers, sixth Earl for -%\-is,daughter and co-heir of >laud 1l’Abrincis of Devon, and “Or, a lion ramp. azure,” for Doles, and half-sister to the aforesaid Matilda Fitz-Icde. brought in by Redvers. Eighth-Robert Courtenay, impaling ‘I Or, a lion The armurials on the tomb, shown previously to ramp. azure,’’ in supposcd right of Redvers. his, were, perhaps, originally “Gules, 3 bezants.” Ninth-John Courtenay, son of Robert, quar- If so, they were the arms of Courtenay of Con- teringthe blue lion, andimpaling \‘ere. John stantinople, and are now wrongly tinctured, and Courtenay died in 1273, and,to say nothing of althoughit is most improbable that they ever the fact, that the system of ‘6 quartering.” \vas un- rightly belonged to Reginald Courtenay and to his known in his time, he had no right to quarter his male descendants, yetthey support assertions, mother‘s coat, for she was not ultimate heir” to evidently founded upon the untrustworthy monastic the Redvers property in her own lifetime, or until chronicle. which was probably devised to give the twenty yearsafter his death,and this shield is Courtenays a more than customary illustrious alone sufficient to cast a fair amount of suspicion origin, thatReginald de Courtenay “must have upon the authenticity of the whole series. stood high in his own estimationand in that of Tenth-Sir Hugh Courtenay, son of John, again the world, since he could impose on the son of a incorrectly quartering the blue lion, and impaling King theobligation of adopting for himself, and all Despenser. his children, the name and arms of his daughter.” Eleventh-Or, 3 torteaux, a label of 3 points The twelfth shield on the tomb is that of Bohun, azure, quartering the blue lion, and impaling St. impaling the royal armsof Edward I. John-Hugh Courtenay, son of Hugh. This Hugh Thethirteenth, that of Hugh, second Earl of Courtenay inherited the estatesof the Redversearls Devon, similar to that of his father, and impaling in 1293, andwas created Earl of Devon in 1335. Bohun. With him thelabel re-appears for the very first The fourteenth, that of Hugh de Courtenay. time since the death of William de Vernon in I z 179 eldest son and heir-apparent (who, with son and the arms arenow borne exactly as they appear and heir, died in the earl’s lifetime), impding Brim. on William de Vernon’s seal. The fifieenth displays the arms of Sir Edward The inference is, I think,plain. WhenHugh Courtenay, the earl’s second son. Whm Courtenay succeeded to the Redvers heritage, at mmkd m Ue Zim, and impales Dawney. Sir the death of Isabella de Fortibus, he assumed the Edward‘s arms are differenced with a bend =g., Redvers arms. just as anyone might assume in- which should be, a bend compony arg. and amre. The Earhrn oj Dean. 116 The Suburbs oj Exeter. -- - - ... .. “7 ~ -. - . . - ...... - These arms, differenced in accordance with one of is foundon the seal of the sixth earl, William the then prevailing methods, by the omission Of Redvers de Vernon; and it is perfectly certain, I one charge, the label, and by the insertion of a think, that the former msumd these arms with the bend, in place thereof, and tinctured, “arg. and Rtdvers fit& and atah, and that the lade( was not azum” were in stained glass in a window of the taken (IS a dzitzmtabe mark of codnrcy, €ut as an southaisle of the Cathedral nave, which stood essCnh‘d part of the arm. opposite the original position of the tomb, and The earls of Devon continued to use the label wbq contemporary with it. They were seen and down to the death of Queen Mary‘s earl at Padua, in 1556. The younger branches of the family, at “ tricked ” by Richard Symonds, on the twentieth of September, 1644, and his manuscript, in which Powderham, Haccombe, and Boconnoc, also mn- they occur, is preserved amongstthe Harleian hued to use it, and duly differenced it to show their cadency, but, in process of time, the label was MSS., No. 939, fo. 25~. so universally looked upon, by people generally, as The sixteenth shield is on the south side of the foot of the tomb, and shows Canterbury impaling a distinct indication of the elder son, and to be Courtenay. It commemorates william Courtenay, borne only during the fathe~slifetime, that the younger Courtenays ultimately discarded it alto- , who, as Bishop of Lon- don, consecrated this. his father‘s resting-place, in gether,and the Powderham branch have long He was overseer of his mother’s will. ceased to use it, but their abandonment of it was 1381. very ill advised, for the reasons I have adduced, The seventeenth shield is that his brother, of sir is just as much a portion of their milip Courtenay, and impales Wake. The Powder- and it arms, as are the three torteaux. Each individual Courtenay ham estatewas settled upon this Philip and his Sir who can show a descent from Robert, and his wife hein, and hewas the direct ancestor of the present Mary Redvers, is entitled to the label, of mume Earl hn,and executor of his mother‘s will. use of duly marked for cadency. The eighteenth, and last, shieldcontains the Lord Courtenay, duringhis father’s lifetime, -S Of St peter Courtenay, Kt., brother to Hugh. might surmount it with another, a smaller, label Of william, and Philip, and the other eXe- metal (arf.or W.) cutor of his mother‘s will. He died unmarried- The earl’s secondson should charge it with a Archbishop Courtemay and hisbrothers, Philip and crescent, of metal, but in the lattercase the c-nt d&rmce thelabel with nine plates. all would become an inherent part the arms of the three each point. of on second house, and would be itself charged with a It Will Seen that Hugh deCourtenay, the first be label, of colour. by the eldest son, of the said second Of name who Was Earl ofDevon, was the first son. as long as his father was alive. of *e Cornnapwho used the -t device which 118 Suburbs of Exeter. .. Th . Or, to sum up the matter shortly, the Courtenay label should at once be restored to its proper place in the Courtenay arms, and should simply be duly di&renced, by the various members of the family, in accordance with the customary laws Of CHAPTER V.-ZHE PARZSff OF arms. PZNHOE. ---

PINHOE, which includes the hamlets, or bartons, of Monkaton, Pinpound, Langerton, Hemng- ton, and Wotton, is in the Deanery of , and about two and a half miles distant from Exeter, with which itis connected by rail. In 1881 it possessed only one hundred and twenty houses, scattered over seventeen hundred and thirty-five acres of land, with a population offive hundred and ten inhabitants. During the last decade,however, many conve- nient and handsome residences have been erected at Pinhoe, more especially upon the commanding acclivity above the Church, and it is now, as it deserves to be, one of the most popular suburbs Of the " ever-faithful city." But despite its natural advantages of situation, Pinhoe possesses an unusually attractive history. since this little village has been rendered memo- rable, in all succeeding ages, by the great battle fought within its limits nearly nine hundred years ago, and sixty-five years before the Norman Con- quest. IC was in the daysof Etheld the second, whose dilatory disposition has handed him down to POS- 121 I20 Th Panih of Pinbe. - .-. .___ __ -. -- terity as “the unready,” and in the year of CiraCe similar nature to subsequent heraldic achievemmts, 1001, that the Vikings’ ships, which had periodically for itis said to havebeen ‘‘a small triangular invaded and ravaged the country for more than banner, fringed, bearing a black raven on a blood two hundred years, returned again to this neigh- red field.” bourhood, where they had more than once expe- It is almost certain that the scene of most Of the rienced disastrous repulses at the hands of the men early fights to which I have briefly referred maybe of Devon. discerned from the high ground which surmounts At one time the Dubhgalls,” the dark strangers, and surrounds Pinhoe Churchyard. Thence map otherwise the Danes, contracted an alliance with be seen Woodbury Common, and the white houws the Cornu-Britons, landed in Cornwall, and made of the seaport of “Pratteshide.” now , with inroads into Devonshire, in 806. but King Egbert the surf breaking over Exmouth bar; the darkridge himself then met them, and totally defeared their of Haldon forming a sombre background to the savage hordes;still they combined to keep our extensive panorama, the scene of King AtheMan’s Saxon forefathers in a constant state of anxiety, victory in 851 ; and all around the spot on which and the land of the West was neversafe from their we stand was fDught the great fight of the first incursions, and consequently never at rest. year of the eleventh century, to which I must no* In 851, they were again defeated in Devonshire and driven back to their ships, which were sub- SqUently dispersed at Sandwich by King Athel- stan jn person, and again twenty-five years later, these Northern pirates wasted , and made their way fiom thence to our coast, and in defiance of their solemn oath, to observe the treaty Of Peace they had made with King Alfred, and in violation of their promise toleave the country, they descended treacherously upon Exeter and took POss~siOnof tbe city, butthey left it again at “harvest time” in the following year, and in 878, Hubba, the brother of Halfdane, landed in Devon- and defeated and killed, Andthen was the Danish ensign, known as the raven, and to which ma@Cd powers were a-cribed, and this debrated must have been of a somewhat for the souls of the victims of the battle of Pinhoe. Chapple, in his “Collections;’ mentions an untrust- worthy but interesting tradition, that it was settled for mer upon the then parish priest and his SW- cessors, to commemorate his military services upon that memorahle occasion ; for, the gallant Church- man, is said to have saddled his ass, and to have kepthis countrymen supplied with “sheaves Of arrows” from Exeter, at a critical period of the fight. Traces of the “barrows,” under which the dead were buried, may yet be found on the high ground above the village, and the actual Scene Of the action may still be ascertained from these. Amongst those who distinguish& themselves for their fidelity to King Cnut was a certain Godwin, whose military services to that monarch Of the highest value, and who consequently treated him with the utmost regard and confidence. Hume says that he‘‘bestowed his daughter him in marriage,” but it is well known that Gun- hilda, King Cnut’s daughter, was the Wife of the Emperor Henry 111. of Germany. Gdsin’S Wif- he is said to have married her secondly-was Githa, sister of King Sweyn, and therefore an aunt of cnut’s. PowerFul personage, generally known in history as Earl of Kent, and who has left his name to that dangerous part of the COSt known as U the Godwyn Sands,” ruled the whole of the south and west of England, and was Earl of Devon, Dorset, Sussex, Hampshire. and Cornwall in the time of Edward the Confessor,who, fot political reasons. married his daughter Editha. Other children of Godwyn were the Earls Ham’&

I The ParakhThe of Pinlm. 12.5 - -. -...... -...... who succeeded his brother-in-law Edward as King “Gill,” in the Cumbrian dialect, signifies a dale of England, Sweyn, Tosti, and Leofwin; and the or valley, and, from the period of his acquisition of last, at the death of King Edward, was the owner this property, Hubert and his descendants adopted of the soil of Pinhoe. This is conclusively proved the Norman name of Vauh or Vnzuc, in Latin, “De by the entry in the Exeter Domesday, which states Vallibus.” that the King has a manor called Pinnoc (in the This Hubert de Vaux had a son, Robert, who Exchequer record it is written ‘1 Pinnoch.” and is a married Ada DEngaine, widow of Simon de Mor- word of Keltic derivation, descriptive of an elevated ville, and had two sons, Robert and Ralph. Situation), which Earl J-eofwine held on the day on Failing the issue of his elder brother, Ralph de which King Edward died. It was taxed at two vaux succeeded to the property in Cumberland, hides, less one virgateof land, and could be worked and had a son Robert, a powerful nobleman, and with ten ploughs. King Williamheld three vir- one of the barons in arms against the tyranny of gates Of thisestate in demesne, and upon the King John. residue of the property there were resident eight But, this Robert de Vaux of Gillesland. was i: villeins, six bordarii, orcottagers, and one serf. much in favour withHenry 111.. who gave him The wood thereextended to one hundred acres, great addition to his original inheritance out of with a similar amount of pasture land, and twenty the Crown manors, and amongst these manors he acres Of meadow. In 1086 it renderedyearly seems to have included the Devonshire one of by weight. Pinhoe. And this Robert, had a son Hubert, and it was the daughter of the latter, instead of the former, Maud de Vaux, who carried the Pinhoe PMPertY and the rest of her estates to her kinsman and husband, Thomas de Molton, or Multon,son Of Thomas deMolton by his second wife Ada, daughter and co-heir of, the archiepisoopal assassin, Hugh de MorvilIe. From a note appended to the Heralds’ visitation of this county, I 564, it appeais that “in the time of Henry Ill., ‘Robert de Vallibus’ was the chief Lord of the Manor of Pinhawe, otherwise pYnhoep and that e Edward de Pinhoe ’ a copY-holder (‘ Chartilarius sive liber tenens ’) hwd there- In 126 1;rrr SIfbUTbS U/ EXdter...... the time of Edward II., Sir Thomas Molton mas the lard of Pinhoe. and ikdthere.” It is certain that John de Molton, as Ipons says, inherited the Manor of Pinhoe. He is stated, in the Visitation record referred to above, to have been a Knight, a son of Sir Thomas Idolton, Lord of Pinhoe, temp. Edward 11. Devon, 32nd Hen& VI., and in znd, 3‘4 and 13tn But Sir Thomas Molton, great grandson of of Edward N., he is called “Joseph Chidley;’ in Maud de Vallibus, of Pinhoe. who probably died Hisdon’s list. His father, Sir John Cheney,of soon after the year 1313, since hereceivd no and Pinhoe, who married Elizabeth,daughter summons toParliament subsequently to the eventual heir of John liill, of Spaxton. had filled seventh of Edward II., could have left no male legitimate issue, because his daughter Margery, by his aifc, also called “Margery;’ wzs his lwir, and carried the Barony of Gillesland to her husband Ralph Dacre; and her descendant, in the fourth generation, Humphry ]>acre, was declared by Edward IV. to be, by right of inheritance, of Gillcsland. This IIumphry nacre, thirdson of Thomas, Lord nacre, had bccome possessed of Gillesland, and other manors, by virtue of a “fine,” levied by his father, who had died in 1457. So that we can only suppose that Sir Thomas Molton, whose wife, ‘4 Margery,” was the daughter and co-heir of Sir Edward Hereward, must have left the Pinhoe property tohis nafural son, Sir John de Molton. This Sir John de Molton, whose wife’s name is left an only daughter, Maud, who married Sir John Stretche. Sir John Stretche had an only son, Thomas, who died without issue, and two daughters, co-heirs to

i The Parish of Pinhoe. 129 ......

Lysons adds that In 1655 the Barton belonged latter had a son Francis, whose son andheir Francis, resided at Bidwell, in the parish of Newton to William Kirkham, Esq., was afterwards a seat .. of the Elwills. Baronets, andis now, 1822, the St. Cyres, an estate derived from his great grand- property of Mrs. Freemantle, daughter of the last mother, Elizabeth Roope. Baronet of that family.” Sir JohnElwill, of Exeter, Knight, created a The Barton of Pinhoe belonged to theKirkhams baronet in 1709, probably purchased Pinhoe from long before 1655, since it was the property and thc latter; it could not have descended to him by inheritance. He resided at Pincourt.His mother residence of Richard Kirkham, second son Of Sir was of the family of Pole of Exeter, and heir to John Kirkham, Kt., Sheriff of Devon, 1523. His son, Sir William Kirkham, of Rlackdon and her father. The second Sir John Elwill, although he retained Pinhoe,married intothe Hampshire family Of Tichborne, and had eight sons and four daughters. the Pinhoe property, acquired the Langley estate, The eldest of these, Richard Kirkham, “aged in the county of Kent, by marriage with “ Style,” in died without issue, and was succtdd and settled there. 30” 1620, He dicd without issue, and was succeeded in the by his next brother, Francis, who married Elizabeth, baronetcy by his younger brother Edmund, whose one of the daughters and co-heirs of Edward ROoP6 son, Sir John Elwill, fourth baronet, died in Bidwell. “Francis Kirkham, of Pinhoe, 1778, of Thk n-hen the title becameextinct. He left,however, Esq..” and Elizabeth his wife, were presented as an only daughter, who married, first, Mr. Felton “Recusants,’.eleventh of April, but they 1639, Harvey. and secondly, Mr. WilliamFreemantle, had previously obtained letters of dispensation and she was thereforethe Mrs. Freemantle who, as from Charles I., under the great seal, dated the stated by Lysons, owned the property in 1822. twenty-first of April, 1638, which protected them Lord Poltimore now owns the Manor of Pinhoe. from the pains and penalties then attached to those The entry in conclusively proves who declined to attend the Parish Church and to that Pinhoe possessed a church twenty-one ye= fmnmunicate at regular periods. after the NormanConquest, and wemay SddY This Francis Kirkham had an e1d-t son William, assume that this church had then existed for Some who must have been the “William Kirkham, Esq.” years, and on its present site, although there referred to Lysons, dying possessed of Pinhoe by as no visible remains of the original fabric. in 1659. He was “aged 3 years”in 1620, and The font is certainly Norman, but a late example to have been subsequently knighted. The of that style,which prevailed &om the &P of LPns’ remark (vol.i., page no3), that they Edward the Confessor,some think even arliW -He to the descent lower than ‘‘-v this down to the close of the twelfth Cenhur. It is william,” 50. it may as well be added, that the K TheSuburbs of Exeter. -. -‘30 . .. - __.- . -. possible, and evenprobable, thatthis font may are “grotesques”-are also of fifteenthcentury have been providcd for a new church built after the date, and have beenwell restored. The first bell Battle of Pinhoe, when the original structure Was is ancient, the second is dated 1691,the third 1695, very probably burnt or destroyed, but the existence andthe tenor bell has the inscription, ‘

lhz Rev.’Ihomas Reynolds, S.T.P., vicar Of Iidmund, the fourth, was also a Fellow of Corpus, Pinhoe from 1530 to 1537. was a Canon of Exeter, but retired to Gloucester Hall, on account of his Warden of JIerton College, Oxford, and held other religious convictions, where he wassome time important preferments. He was tutor. in 1553, and resigned it for the Deanery of Exeter, James, the fifth son, mas a Fellow of Exeter on the ninth of February, 1554. Queen Mary College ; whilst Nicholas, the youngest son, re- nominated him in 1558 to the See of TIereford, but mained at Pinhoe and farmed the land he lived on. the nomination was cancelled by Queen Elizabeth, as his ancestors had done. and Dr. Reynoldswas never consecrated. 1Ie His son William, however, left this county, and refused to submit to the change of religion, and settled at Cassington, near Woodstock,where I was committed to the Marshalsea, wherc he died, find him described as a “gentleman.” He probably on the twenty-fourth of November, 1559. inhcritcd the money of his unmarried University I may mention that King IIenry VIII. presented uncles. Of thesc, Edmund is especially mentioned him to the Rectory of 1‘ Pitt portion,’’ in Tiverton as having died a wealthy man. Church, on the ninth of April, 1541, but his name John Reynolds, third son of Richard, and nephew is not included in the list of rectors printed in the of the Dean of Exeter, was born at Pinhoe in 1549. latecol. Harding’s “History of Tiverton.” He He mas entered at Merton in 1562, aged thirteen, Was a son of RichardReynolds or Rainolds, Of and obtained a scholarship at Corpus in the follOW- ‘ Pinhoe, whose ancestors had long resided in the ing year. In 1598 he became , parish. which he subsequently resigned ‘to become PreSi- dent of Corpus. Queen Elizabeth offered him a Dr. hynolds had resigned Pinhoe in favour Of bishopric, which he declined. *e Rev. “ Michael Reynolds,” who I presume was a brother, in 1537, when theliving had been He was at first ardently devoted to the Romish charged in his favour with an annuity of f;4 per doctrine, whilst his brother William was as great anum. a Reformer, and the two argued the differences The dean’s undoubted younger brother, Richard between them so strenuously that the position was was “a substantial farmer” of Pinhoe, completely changed. Some say that the argument where his six sons were born. was not with William, but with Edmund Reynolds, the eldest of them, was Fellow and who resigned his fellowship at corpus in Cons* Tutor of COPUS Christi College, Oxford. quence of his change of views. the second, was educated at Winchester, Anyway, it is certain that Dr. John Reynolds and was subsequently Fellow of New College. abandoned his early views and became OmOf the Of John. the third, I shall speak presently. leading fietans of his time. Some consider that 138 The Suburbs of Exefer. The Pankh of Paiahoc. -. l39 - - -. -. .. ..- - he was for years the actual leader of the ‘‘ Puritan ery of Christchurch on the twenty-ninth of January, party.” 1732-3. Previously to this he had been Rector of He distinguished himself greatly at the Hampton St. Clement’s,Oxford, andone of His Majesty’s court Conference in rbo3, where he suggested the preachers at ‘Whitehall. In 1750, upon the trans- necessity of the new translation of the Bible,in lation of Dr. Butler to Durham, he became Bishop which he wasafterwards actively engaged. He of Bristol. whilst at Oxford he was tutor to died on the twenty-first ofMay, 1603. and was , afterwards Archbishop of Canter- buried in the innerchapel of Corpus, where a bury. He died on the thirteenth of July. 1755, a monument, surmounted by his bust, was erected to poor man, for his elevation to the Episcopate Of his memory. Bristol had injured rather than improved his posi- tion. The Rev. John Conybearebecame Vicar Of Two volumes his sermons werepublished Pinhoe on the seventeenth of November, 1681, and of held the living until his death, onthe twenty-ninth after his death, and 4,600 copies were subscribed Of November, 1706. Dr. Oliver notes (Ecc. Antiq.. for by his friends, as anattempted provision for his .. family. . 11.. 128; that “h tomb-stone in the churchyard inform us that Revd John Conybearewas Chaplain The Parish of Pinhoe has participation in the gift of Grace Ramfield. who, by her will, dated the to the and died in 1740, aged 72.’’ twenty-seventh February, gave j5120. He wonders if this “ can be his son i“ of 1652, To It is rather extraordinary that the learneddoctor, this bequest William Lee added Lzo, and James should have overlooked the career of the vicar’s Taylor another Lzo, which was further augmented undoubted son John, as it is clear he must have by thecontributions of William Lee, deceased,,&Os done, when he asked such a question. For even Richard Lee, &, and by a sum of ,& added by the rarish. that the Vicar of Pinhoe had two sons in theParish of Were both called John- by no means unusual Withthis moneyan estate rents of which, ! -mns-it is singular that Dr. Oliver did not Broadclist was purchased, the according to the will of the donor, nere to be ex- =mark upon the fact that ~LL.f tksc ~0~;snus a &ish@. pended in clothing, to be distributed, five-ninths to the poor of Pinhoe, and theremainder, in equal Por- do not Pretend to say who the “Chaplainto the x tions, to the poor of and ThOWerton. Of Essex” may have been-possibly a nephew Cwace Barnfield was, I believe, a daughter of Of the whose son John was born at Pinhoe William Lee. of Pinhoe, whose daughter Jane was On the thh’-fiRt of January, 1691-2, and W= buried there in 1651. She was the widow Of educated at riverton. He was subsequently Rector Iidward Barnfield,of Stoke Canon,whose Was Of COllW, which he resi-ed for the Dean- 140 ne saauyas Exctcr. - proved at Exeter on the eighteenth of April, 16.15. nearly a quarter of a mile in length. and included and he was the fifth son of Richard Bamfield, of eight stagecoaches. fullyhorsed and quipped, Poltimore, whose name is frequently thus written. overtwenty post-chaises, and sometwo hundred Humphry Wilcocks, by will dated the third Of mourners, who followed on horseback. January, 1686, gave to the feoffees of the above probably the inhabitants of.this USUdly quiet lands two ficIds in Pinhoe, which he had purchased village had neverhad such an excitement, as of Dorothy and Peter Bigglestone, the rents to be this funeral afForded them, since the date Of that distributed yearlyamongst poor people of sixty memorable incident with which I commend mY years of age or upwards. account of their pleasant little parish, when-

John Sanders, by will dated in 1729,gave to the (( All day long the tide of httk dkd:’ feoffcesof the above lands thirty shillings a year, payable out of “The Downs,” to be distributed in bread on tho first Sunday in every month, to six poor people having no parochial relief. Sir john Elwill, Bart., gave forty shillings a year, to issue from his estates in Pinhoe, for teaching eight poor children of the parish to read. JohnLand, innkeeper, of Exeter, by his will dated the eighth of January, 1817, gave &zoo to the vicar and churchwardens, to be laid out in the purchase of stock, the interest to be divided annu- ally amongst the poor generally, at the discretion Of the vicar and churchwardens. In conclusion, I may add a few words as to the funeral Of this popular and venerable Exeter citi- Z~Swho had been the landlord of the London Inn at Exeter for more than half a century. He was buried at Pinhoe but a few days after he had dated his will, in ,817. His inn had been long the rendezvous of the set.eral coaches which then formed the only means of ~mmunicdtioflbetween London and Plymouth. i Thefuneral procession of the old landlord was i The Panih of St. Zhas. I43 -. . - the hands of Baldwin,Sheriff ofDevon, and brother of Richard de Redvers, first Earl of Devon under Norman rule. i I have so fullyreferred previously to these CHAPTER VI-TZZE PARZSH powerful personages, that I neednot repeat any OF particulars as to their descent or history. It will ST. THOMAS. he sufficientfor me to say that whenBaldwin became the owner of “ Coic” or Cowick, it paid -c- tax for one hide of land. Of this, Baldwin had half a hidein demesne, and THE Parish of St. Thomas the Apostle, as it is twoploughs, and the villeinshad another half usually but incorrectly designated, the Church hide, and six ploughs. having been dedicated in memory of St. Thomas There were resident on the manor, eight villeins, Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, ought more three cottagers, and two serfs; and the lord had Properly to be known as the Parishof Cowick. there one pack-horse, three beasts, and forty sheep. It is situated in the ancient Deanery of Kenne, There was a mill which rendered ten shillings but was transferred by the last Bishop of Exeter yearly, three acres of wood, and three acres of (now ), to that of 6‘ Christianity,” meadow, and it was worth annually forty shillings for the sake of convenience. (in the Exchequer Domesday, thirty shillings), and It included the villages of Exwick and Oldridge, in 1066, the pmperty appears to have been worth but the first has of late years been separated from only twenty shillings. it, and forms a distinct parish. The abovedescription of the property is, of St. Thomas is so close to Exeter, from which it course, from Domesday, but it is shown by another onlydivided by Exe Bridge, that it seems to record that in the reign of Edward II., two centuries a Podon of the city, but it is, and always later, the Manor of Cowick included seventy acres has been, quite outside thecity government, is of arable land, twelve of meadow, and six of wood. a suburban parish, and a portion of the two of garden, and twomills, one of the latter county Of Devon. It now includes two thousand being at Exwick. nine hundred and twenty one acres of land, and The rent roll from this property at the Refor- in 1881, five thousand five hundred and forty- mation, as shown by the ‘‘Valor” of 1534. amounted one parishion-. toL39 5s. 8d. a year. The Manors of Cowick and “Essoic” (Exwick) -the latter had been in Saxon tiineS Owned by I- f il 144.- The.. . Subwbs... .. uf. lhm‘er. .. The Parish of St. Thomas. 145 . ____ - ! -. . - f Eurenacre, andhad been taxed forone hidc of daughter of Baldwin, the sheriff, and that he was land, three acresof meadow, thrce acres of coppice, the father of Ralph Avenel, is abundantly proved fifty acres of pasture, and a mill, in all worth by the deed of his grandson William Avenel, thirty shillings perannum-were gircn by Baldwin, cxecutcd between the years 1141 and 1155, and to the Sheriff, to his son William. which I shall have to refer more particularly in my Nothing canbe more complicated or contradictory account of the parish of Alphington. than the hitherto published statements as tn this He there mentions certain land which had been William. By some, under the name of William Of given by “ Ralph his father,” and by “ Adeliia” Avenel. he has been made the husband of his own “his father’s aunt un fhe fafhr’s side.” The said sister, Emma; by others, his son Ralph, has been Adeliza having been elder sister of Emma, and declared to havebecn married to Alice, daughter of alsosister of the saidWilliam Fitz-Baldwin de another of his sisters, Adelicia, who, it has been Avenel. conclusively ascertained, never had a daughter There was naturally litigation before these Ave- at all. nels submitted quietly to the descent of the Barony A reference tothe pedigrees as put forth by of Okehampton in the family of Abrincis, but the Dugdale and Lis co&&, and which had their origin various accounts and explanations of that litiga- in the mendacious records of the Monks of Ford, tion, hitherto, have been ridiculously fabulous. Will explain the discrepanciesin the descent. I William Fitz-Ualdwin de Avenel gave his manors can only submit the facts I have myself ascertained, of Cowick and Exwick, probably between the years and which, I believe, I can clearly substantiate. 1087 and 1100, to the Abbot and Convent of Bec, This William, “son of Baldwin,” at one time in Normandy, which had been founded by Herlouin, filled the office of Sheriff of Devon, probably only the son of Ansgot and Heloysa his wife, upon his in an acting capacity (since his brother Richard own estate, near the little rivers Bec and La Rive, and his sister Adeliza, both held it successively, as eighteen miles south-west of Rouen. Of hereditary right), in the reign of W7illiam Rufus- The gift of this Devonshire property tothe mi is shown by a deed of that monarch in Norman abbey is proved by the confirmation of it connedOn with the Church of St. Olave. Exeter, to them by King Henry 11. : “In England Cuwic and Exewic by gifi of William Fitz-Baldwin.” The first Abbot of Bec, whowas the founder himself, died in August, 1073. His Prior had been , subsequently Abbot of St. Stephen’s, Caen, and who was consecrated Archbishop Of Canterbury im 1070. L ......

The Pwsh of St. - .. Tironw. I47 Herlouin was succeeded in the Abbey of Bec by whichhave come down of late years,and the (St.) Anselme,who was also inlater times the church and Cloister of the Priory and the greater English Primate at Canterbury, and occupied the Part of the dwellings are so weak and damp that archiepiscopal throne from 1093 to I 109. most of them will very likely fall,unless immediate So we need not go far for a reason, to account for action is taken to repair them.” the erection of Cowick Priory, which was simply a Thc priory had then been seized by the Crown dependency of the NormanAhbey ofRec, “a as alien, and the prior, William Donnebant, whose separate, but subordinate ” foundation. revenues had beensuspended, had been charged Cowick Priory occupied the ground between the withneglect, “by permitting the priorychurch, river and Okehampton Strect, and stood directly the chancel, the cloisters, the principal chamber, opposite the Bonhay, on about two acres of land. the kitchen, the great gateway, the grange,and A portion of the boundary wall is still standing, the bakehouse, to go to decay.” close to the river. His predecessorhad been similarly accusedof Many misleading statements have been put for- “waste” in his priory, by permitting a certain ward in print, especially in recent years, a~ to th chamber called “ye Erles Chamber” to be ruinous; exact situation of this venerable establishment. and at Exwick, “parcel of the samepriory,” he Jenkins, I fear, is originally responsible for most had allowed a chamber, a grange, and a mill, to ofthem, since he states positively (“ History Of go to decay through defective roofs. Exeter,” p. 430) that the priory stood I‘ south-west The Crown so constantly assumed and leased the from Bowhill,”by which he evidently means property during wars with France, that the priors Cowick Barton, as he goes on to describe the of Cowick had very frequently no income whatever property. withwhich to execute necessary repairs to their The situation of the priory (which by an in- extensive buildings, not only on the banks of the quisition as to its extents, dated Tuesday after the Exe, but also at Exwick and Cowick, where their Feast of the Epiphany, 1524-5, is shown ‘‘ tohave “Barton house” stood, as its successor does now. stood in the sanctuary of its church, and to have King Henry VI., however, was pleased to restore extended beyondthe church”) is abundantly proved the income, to prevent the ruin of the monastic by a brief of King Henry VI., addressed to the buildings, but two yearsafterwards, on Palm Bishop Of Exeter, Edmund Lacy, and datedReading Sunday, 1442, a disastrous fire occurred,which Abby, January the twentieth, 1439-40, in which it destroyed buildings and furniture to the extent Of is stated that “a large portion of the possessions over .& 177, a very large sum in those days. of the priory is close to a certain great river called From this last blow Cowick Priory appears new Ex6 and has been inundated by the heavy flocds to have recovered. The communitystruggled On 148 Th6 Parish of St. Tlrom6. .. . Th Skburbs of Exeter. -- - .. -.. . - ...... _.149.. for a year or two, but in 1451, the then Prior, ment, and thus that barony came to the house of Robert de Rouen, apparently in despair ofwit- Abrincis; but the Avenels long flourished at nessing “better times,’’ surrendered his house to Sheepwash, and latterly at , where the the same King, Henry VI., who at once left the name did not finally become extinct until the reign buildings‘ to their fate, and appropriated the reve- of Henry VI., when a daughter brought the Manor nues towards the maintenance of his new foundation i of Loxbeare to Trowbridge. at Eton. It is therefore not at all wonderful that Emma, sister of William Fitz-Baldwin, de Ave- but very few and unsatisfactory vestiges of C~ariCk ne1 [founder of Conrick Priory), was the great- Priory are to be found to-day. grandmother of Avis D’Aincourt, wife of William, A list of the Priors of Cowick, from Walter. who son of Reginald Courtenay by his firstwife, occurs in the time of Bishop John (the Chaunted Matilda de Donjon. of Exeter, 1186-1191, may befound in Oliver's William and Avis were the father and mother Monasticon of the Diocese.” of Robert Courtenay, who of late years, as I have That the Courtenays for many generations were already stated, has been erroneously considered to patrons and benefactors of Cowick Priory is quite have been the son, instead of @andson. of Regi- certain ; indeed, the lands were actually held from nald Courtenay. them in alms, as parcel of the Barony of Okehamp- But Avis D’Aincourt is actually mentioned in ton, as shown by the I‘Hundred Roll.” That they the Exchequer Rolls as ‘6 widow of William Cour- had accommodation within its walls seems also to tenay,” and Robert Courtenay refers to his mother be proved by the reference to “ye Erles Chamber,” “ Avis ” in his deed to the burgesses of Okehamp- which had been permitted at one time “to g0 to ton, dated in 1209. decay:’ A “lying” inscription by the careless or unscru- They were not, however, descendants of the pulous monks of rlFord” mayhave originated dgid founder, but of his sister Emma, through this extraordinary blunder,which seems to have het marriage with William de Abrincis. Adelk% been too readily adopted by Ezra Cleaveland, and *‘Lady of Okehampton;’ is said to have nominated has been universally fillowed since histime. nephew,” Ralph Avenel, to succeed her in Robert Courtenay was Lord of Okehampton in that barony. This is more than probable, but he fight of his mother Avis, and he married Mary, WBS not her nephew through her sister Emma, but daughter of William de Vernon, sixth Eatl of finugh her brother William, as I have explained Devon of the Redvers family,who, by the way, above. according to the generally received but untrust- He m,however, to have been turned out of worthy pedigree of Redvers, would have lived huo the Okehampton property upon a writ of ejaet- generations before him. j The Suburbs of Exeter. Th Parzih of St. llunnas. 1.51 ..150 - . _ ... .- ...... --- ...... When it is remembered how very easily ana- and first Countess of Devon of the Courtenay line, chronisms of thisnaturc may be exposed and was buried “near” her husband’s relatives. She refuted by a little careful examination of dates Or died at Tiverton. on the eleventh of June, 1340. contemporary records, it seems wonderful that such Her husband only survived her for theshort errors should have prevailed so long, or that they space of six months. The long litigation, which, shouldhave been ever perpetrated at all. si sincc the deathof Isabella de l‘ortibus, in 1283,had WilliamDugdale was a very celebrated man in been maintained by the other kinsfolk of the his day,but, like many others, he attempted Redvers family as to the rightof succession to the much, andis consequently responsible for many title, had been terminated inhis favour on the errors which he was never able to rectify, and to twenty-second of February, 1335, by virtue of a which his copyists, andtheir plagiarists, have peremptoryorder from the Crown, he having added many more. claimed the Earldom as right heir of line of Robert Courtenay’s grandson, Sir Hugh de William de Vernon de Redvers, sixth Earl, whose Courtenay, wasburied in thepriory church. He daughter and co-heir, Mary de Redvers, had been resided at Colcombe Castle, but, having quarrelled his great-grandmother. with the monks of Ford, chosc Cowick for his place His lordship died at Tiverton Castle on Decem- of interment. ber the twenty-third, 1340. and was buried on His death occurred on the twenty-eighth of the following fifth of February. The corpse was February, 1291,and his actual burial is proved by lodged in Exeter Cathedral the night previously, the fact thatan indulgence of fortyday3 Was where a service was first performed, and, after mass Wanted by Bishop Bitton of Exeter, by his deed on the following morning, the long procession dated at Clist, fourth of the Kalends of November, wended its way through Fore Street, and the west 13- (twenty-ninth of October), for prayers recited quarter, and emerging through the western gate of *‘for the soul of Sir Hugh Courtenay, formerly the city, crossed Exe river, and proceeded to the Knight. whose body is buriedin the priory Of old Priory, on its further bank. and for his children John, Alice, and There the deceased nobleman was laid, by his Robert, who are interred at Colyton.” wife Agnes, and by his father, and, possibly, by his Hugh Courtenay’s widow, Alianore, daughter mother, ‘I In the of the Conventual Church,” of hrd Despenser, died in London on the and Bishop Grandisson said the funeral service, -tY-sixth Of September, 1328, and her bodv is and preached from the text, First Book of Chroni- .aid to have been hmumht rlnmn tn EX, des. xxix. zB-“ He died in a good old age, full of fiches and honour.” He was the last of the Cour- bays who was buried at Cowick.

l ...... -- - -

The Parish St. Thomas. The Ssburbs of Exeter. - - of - 1.53 152 .. .. .- joint efforts of the Prior ofComick, and such As we read in the “Monasticon of the D1oCe~e“- of notable parishioners as Holland, Floyer, andothers, “Until October the fifteenth, 1261,the inhabitants of Cowick had no parish priest toofficiate for them, together with the vicar, John Alkebarwe, a fresh site was procured from the monks, called “Pyryhay,” but used to attend Divine service in the nave of the Conventual Church of St. Andrew.” “far distantfrom the river and its inundations,” and On the date mentioned by Dr. Oliver, the Prior there anew church was erected inhonour of God,and in memoryof the same saint which to its predecessor ofCowick appearsto have presented a Certain priest, called “Henry,” for institution by Bishop had been dedicated, St. Thomas, Archbishopof Can- terbury, and itwas consecrated onthe fourteenth of Bronescombe, because the rapidly increasingpOPu- lationthen required constantand special ClCriCal October, I 4 I z . supervision. A burial-ground was attached to the new church, The chapel in which the new parish priest was to and by the covenant with the bishop, the parish- ioners in future werc to be interred in it,or else, for officiate was then completed, but it is certain that its construction had been undertaken at least two years special reasons, within the church, unless any, from previously, because in a deed dated February the time to time purhcufarly desired to he buried in the ancient cemetery of St. Michael, where their fourteenth, 1259, there is mention of “ a light for the Blessed Mary inthe Chapel of St. Thomas, the ancestors had been laid from time immemorial, and ’ -Martyr,” which is described, in another document the parishioners were enjoined to keep up thegraves, ditches, and walls of the old chapel and graveyard. .of the same date, as being situated at the end Of Exe Bridge. The church built in Pyryhay,and consecrated, In this chapel, Henry, and his successors, con- as we have seen, in 1412, originally appears to tinued to ministerfor the longperiod of one hundred have consisted of chancel, nave, aisle, and western and fifty-one years, all parochial privileges being tower. It was practicallyrebuilt in 1656, when, attached to it, excepting the right of burial, which from its situation so close to the city, it had natu- the situation of the chapel, on the bridge, the sur- rally become dilapidated during the greatrebellion, roundingground being quite close to the river, since it had more thanonce accommodated the rendered impossible. troops of either side ; but it was at last almost com- Burials were to take place, as heretofore, in the P1etelY mined by fire. At the commencement of cemetery attached to the Chapel of St. Michael, century it consisted of chancel, nave, north and Situated without the boundaries of the Priory. south aisles, andthe tower was crowned with a The chapel on Exe Bridge wasat last swept away and contained six bells, all cast in 1789 out by a flood, and, as shewn by Bishop Staffed's of a former peal of five. Register. was entirely destroyed, SO then by the The church was againenlarged and repaired

i 154 Tk Sudurbs of Exetcr. Tk Parish of S#.Ihhomas...... - __.. IS5 between the years 1821-29, and was re-seated and ground overlooking the city. It is close to the restored internally some twenty years ago. lane which leads from Alphington Cross to the After thesiege of Exeter in 1549, consequent head ofCowick Street ; and the “easements” or upon the rebellion of that year in connection with paths which lead from Cowick Street through the the change of ritual, Lord Russell, the King’s. fields tothis property are more than oncemen- general, and patron of St. Thomas,hanged the tioned in ancient records, and until a comparatively Rev. John Welsh, the Vicar, upon the tower of his recent period were known as l‘ The Monks’ Walk.” church. The execution was entrustedto Bernard The “ barton ” itself is referred to in the “Valor Dufficld, Lord Russell’s steward. The vicar, having Ecclesiasticus” of Henry VIII., and the then value been brought to the foot of the tower, was drawn of this estate was A39 5s. ad. per annum, a very to the top by a rope, and there hanged in chains considerable sum, but, as may still be seenby upon a gallows which had been erectedon its anyone acquainted with the character of the pro- summit. He was arrayed in his vestments, and a perty, the ground must have always commanded a holy-water bucket, a sprinkle, a sacring bell, and high rental. a pair of beads, were suspendedaround him. Eastward of the present house stood the ancient According to the barbarous custom of those days, chapel of St. Michael, and below this chapel, on the body was tarred over, and remained suspended the groundsloping towards Exeter, was the old from the gallows during the remainder of the reign cemetery attachedto this chapel, in which the of Edward VI., and until the accession of Queen inhabitants of the parish had beenburied from Mary. “time immemorial ” up to the dedication of the This vicar seems tohave taken avery active new church and churchyard in Pyryhay, in 14x2. Part in the rebellion, although his worst enemies I have been the more particular as to this de- admit thathe was possessed of manyamiable scription, because it has been recently suggested qualities, and seems tohave used his influence that the priory itself stood here-an evidentim- with the rebels to prevent the burning of the city, possibility. in the face of the existing Original which they wished much to attempt; however, he records I have referred to above, and which Prove seems tohave avsented tothe execution of a conclusively that the latterwas “ c&SC f0 th rik.“ Protestant called Kingwell, who was hanged upon The existence of a large graveyard at COWiCk a tree in Exe Island, and the vicar, therefore, was Barton-all traditions as to the origin of which Put to death in retaliation. had been long lost-was amply proved many Yeam neBarton of cowick, which was the farm Of ago; numbers of bones and skeletons \%wethen the Priory, was and is situated at the top of the turned up there, and although various theories We* still known as Cowick Fields, and on high adduced to account for these remains. all Were Tkc Parivh of St. Thomas. IS? 156 .. The Suburbs of Exefer. -_ -- ...... wide of the mark. It was at length admitted that similar vaults on eitherside ; all three of these con- they indicated the existence of a cemetery there at ? taincd skeletons, and in thegrave on the south side a period “anterior, at all events, to the reign of a chalice was found. There were also the remains Charles 11.” of graves, with bones in them, on the north and But allreasonablc doubts were set at rest in south western sides of the stone coffin, which there- 1887,when, at the top of this cemetery, the founda- fore appears, as I have said, to have been laid in tions of the old Chapel of St. Michael, on the hill the centre of the chancel. -as chapels dedicated to this saintusually stood- So that, in all, six graves were opened, one of these contained a coffin inscribed with a cross, were discovered andlaid open. On the ninth of I August, 1887, some workmen were taking a drain, i another a chalice. ThePriors of Cowick,would from Cowick Barton House, across the field, when I have been buried in their conventual church, as it they lighted upon a stone coffin, the cover coped is known their patrons, the Courtenays, were, con- and ornamented with an early typeof cross, known sequently it may be assumed that those graves were in heraldry as a cross recercelbe, extendingthe the last restingplaces of the ancient priests of the whole length of it.Upon being opened it was Chapel of St. Thomas on the bridge, in which, as found to contain a skeleton, thegeneral form Of we have seen, it was not only impossible, but which disappeared upon exposure to the air, leav- illegal, to bury, andthe parochial clergy were ing only a few bones. usually buried in their chancels. Thearchitect engaged in the operations which I may say, that in addition to the old cemetery, led to the discovery, and with whom 1 at once which extends around thiscuriously discovered site. placed myself in communication, Mr. Fellowes the excavators proved that the building could not Prynne, at once caused a careful examination to be have been a church of any importance, since there made of the surrounding ground, when he found were no traces of arcading, or of any elaborate that his labourers had actually come upon the site details, save the rich tiled flooring, of which many fragmentshave been preserved. The Piwe Of Of a small ancient ecclesiastical building, and that stone moulding that was unearthed, was a small *heY had lighted upon a spot which musthave piece of string course a few inches long. The tile% been almost the centre of the sanctuary, thefloor Of although very fragmentary, been Once aces- which was discovered two feet WO inches below the had present surface. sively handsome; on one of these am the five to those on the Courtenay tomb The architect considers the date of the coffin to chevronels, similar in Exeter Cathedral, and which indicate the second be of the second half of the thirteenth century. marriage of Reginald de Courtenay, with MatiIda eastward of the walled grave which con- 1 Fitz-Ede, otherwise Abrincis. &ined this coffin was another walled grave, with i T’e Parish of St. Tbzas. .- ...... 159..- Then there are the Three Lions of England on (which had becn the gift to Cowick ofthe Courtenays) another, which refer to the marriage of Hugh de and Woodemarston, then produced an inclusive Courtenay, son of the Earl buried at Cowick, with rental of L78 16s. 7id. per annum. Margaret de Rohun. This marriage took place on The present house at Cowick Barton, which is a the last day of August, 1325, and the Earl died in typicalTudor residence, appears to have been 1377. The existence of these arms, and the piwe erected by Lord Russell, whowas the fourth of of string course, which is of the fourteenth century the sixteen pardians of Edward VI., during his type, would point to the conclusion that theChapel minority. The house must have beenerected of St. Michael was “re-edified” by the second Earl between the years 1539 and 1547. That is to say, of Devon, perhaps in memory of his father and between the time Lord Russell became the owner mother. of the property, and the death of Henry VIII., Upon the surrender of Cowick Priory to Henry because the Arms of Edward VI. as Prince of VI., thatKing appropriated the revenues, as I Wales-the ostrich feather, badge, and the initial have said, to EtonCollege. A few years afterwards letters “E. P.”-still remain there in stained glass. Edward IV. cancelled this donation, and gave all Cowick remained in the Russell family for some the property to the Abbey of Tavistock, and with generations, until, in 1630,Francis, Earl of Bedford, ~ that wealthy community it remaineduntil the became the principal undertaker in the workof j dissolution. draining the Fen lands in Northampton, and the Subsequently to its union with Tavistock, Cowid adjoining counties, usually known as “TheBedford Priory ceased to be of any importance ina monastic Levels,” and, perhapsto raise moneyfor this sense. Dr. Oliver considers that a few religious expensive work, the St. Thomas, or Cowick, pro- men may have resided amidst it5 ruins, but there perty was sold in or about 1641. when Barley and were no further admissions of any Priors, as proved Franklyn changed hands. by the silence, about such, of the Episcopal Regip The Patefamily seem to havebecome the owners of Cowick Barton, with its interesting archmlogi- &S. The Abbot of Tavistock may, however, have appointed “Superiors” from time to time, removable cal remains, above referred to. Robert Pate was at his will, and Browne Willis says that “John certainly its owner on February the eighth, 1677, when he made hiswill. He left a son, Robert Pate, 1 Carter wasthe last Prior of Cowick, a cell to ? Tavistock.” of the Middle Temple, Barrister-at-law, Susannah, the dissolution, Henry VIII. included the and Mary, who married Mr. Brooking. After i! whole of the Cowick property in his very liberal Robert Pate, the younger, describes himself as of \ “Cowick House” in his own will, the sixteenth Brsnt to Lord Russell. “Cornrick, with its member% of May, 1687. He gives his messuages,lands, and Exwyck, Barley, Olderiggs, Cobelynche, Whympell l tenements to his sisters, above mentioned, in equal HAITS BUTOX was purchased byJohn I’etm, proportions. Collectorof Customs, of Exeter, second son of ’fie whole subsequently passed to Mrs. l’rideaux, John I‘etetre, of Tor-Bryan, and the brother of Sir the daughter of Alary Brooking, who left it to her arilliam Petre. ‘I Principal Secretary of State,” the daughter, Mrs. Speke,and her daughter deviscd it to ancestor of Lord Petre. Mr. James VJhhe, who was the owner in 1830, and John Petre left this property to his son, William from him it has descended to the present owners Petrc, who devised it to his son, Sir George Petre, Mr. White-Abbott, of Exmouth, who has rSentlY of Tor Ncwton, in the said parish of Tor Brym, had this interesting old Barton, or rather, Manor, Kt., by whom it was sold in the reign of James I., housecarefully repaired and restored. It extends to William Gould, son and heir of Edward God& around three sides of a quadrangle, and, is of Staverton, already mentioned, and from him it arrangement and general appearance, it Was descended, with Cowick, to the Bullers. doubtless an occasional residence of the first Lord I;I.OYER HAYES, the ancientresidence of the Russell, as itwas evidently erected withthat object. family of l‘loyer, is referred to in a Latin note to THE MAXOR or COWICKwas purchased of the the Heralds’ Visitation of Devon of 1564, preserved Earl of Bedford, in I 639, by William Gould, grand- at the College of Arms: “The Manor of Hayes son of Edward Gould, of Staverton, in this county- lies on the west side of the , and is held This William Gould was baptized in the parish from the Earl of Devon by service, that whenever church of St. Thomas, on the fourteenth of W- the Earl may come to Exe Island to fish, or other- tember, 1615. He was a Colonel of Horse during wise enjoy himself, then the lord, or proprietor, of the Civil War, and Governor of Plymouth, where this manor,in decent habit or apparel,should he was buried on the ninth of July, 1644. attend him, with a mantle upon his shoulders, and His great-grandson, William Gould, of Do.knes, a silver cupfilled with in his hands, and in the parish of Crediton, left ’WO daughters, should offer the same to the said Earl to drink.” co-heirs, and the eldest of these, Elizabeth, brought This ancient mansion, long sincedestroyed, is the Manor of Cowick into the family of Buller by shown inthe oldmap of the Cityof Exeter, her marriage with James Buller, of Morval. reproduced in Lysons’ “Magna Britannia,” Vol. ii., P. It stood nearly in a line with “Snayle sir , v.c., K.c.B., is n~vrLord Of 178. the Manor of Cowick, and patron of the Vicarage Of Tower,” and on the westside of the river,and St. Thomas. musthave been very near the ancientpriory of THE hlCIENTPIUORY OFSXEIIATY DEWm, cowick, but a little to the south-west of it. situated partly in St. Thomas, will be noticed sub- The house appars as a building of very Con- qumtlyin thehistory of the parish of Alphington. siderable size, and is surrounded by a strong wall, M 162 The Suhrbs of Exeter. . . - ...... -. .. - ..... -- . Th Parish..... of St. Tho-.-...... I63 entered beneath a massive circular arched gate- way. The first of the Floyers, mentioned in their pedi- grees, is Richard, whowas lord of this manor, hp.Henry 11. Fromhim, the line is continued to “Anthony Floyer, of Floyer Hayes,” who died on the twenty- eighth of November, 1608. His son and heir, Anthony Floyer, shown by the Inquisition after his father’s death, to have been then twelve years old. sold “Floyer Hayes” to Henry Gould, brother of the aforesaid Edward Gould, of Staverton. and who afterwards purcha%edLew Trenchard. The Floyers then removed into Dorsetshire, the said Anthony having acquired property there in right of his mother, Anne, daughter and co-heir of Nicholas Martyn of Athelhampton. The Manor of Bowhillat one time belonged theto Anthony’s descendant,William Floyer, of Athel- Hollands, and passed to John Carew, of Anthony, hampton, Dorsetshire, baptized at , in this by marriage withThomasine Holland, daughter county, in 1726,was thefather of John Gould Floyer, of Roger Holland,Sheriff ofDevon, 1994, and of Kelsby, Lincolnshire, who died in 1841, and the became forfeited by the attainder of John Carew, latter was the grandfather of Augustus Wadham whose signature is attached to the death warrant ployer, of Martyn Hall, countyLincoln, whose of__ King Charles 1. children are Eric, George, and Sydenham Floyer, However, King Charles II., graciously restored the last born in 1864. So that this ancient family the Property, together wfth Higher Barley, to still flourishes. Thomas Camw, and with a co-heir of Cm,these The original grant of the Manor of Floyer Hayes, estates went to the Sawles, and ultimately became which was parcel of the Barony of Okehampton, the Property of Elizabeth Sawle,the wife of Admiral was confirmedby Robert Fitz-Ede, natural son Graves, and hencethe family of ‘8 Graves-Sawle.” of Henry I., and second husband of Matilda _.Inere was an ancient domestic chapelat Bowhill, ab# D’Aincourt, Abrincis, Baroness of Okehampton long used as a barn...... in her own right, to Richard, the son of Nicholas Barley House was garrisoned by Sir Thomas FlOyS, whose grandfather, “Richard, the son of Faitfax in February, 1646. The Suburh-. of Exeter. . -- 164 .. .- . - The Pard of Sf. Zhw. _. . -- . .- 165 Cleave House was purchased by the Northmores, on Fore Street Hill, but his country house was at of , in the reign of Charles II., and Exwick. He was an Exeter merchant. At this time was long a seat of that family ; in 1822 it was the Alexander and Francis Worth, two of the younger residence of Thomas Northmore. and still belongs Sonsof Henry Worth, then head of the ancient to hisdewendant, Mr. Northmore, of Ceylon. house of Worth in Washfield, settled in Exeter as Franklands belonged tothe Seales, ofMOUnt merchants. Their mother was Dorothy, daughter Boone. Anna Maria, daughter of John Seah Of John Bampfylde, of Poltimore. It was probably married Mr. Charles Fanshawe; their son sold it due to the intimacy of these young men with the to the late John Jones, the antiquarian friend Of Olivers that Benjamin, son of Sir Benjamin Oliver, the lateDr. Oliver, who long resided there. married their fifth sister, Elizabeth Worth, who is It now belongsto the Snows. Simon Snow, mentioned as his wife in her father’s will, proved a benefactor to the City of Exeter, was AIayor of on the nineteenth of May, 1680. the city in 1653. His mother was Grace, sister Of Benjamin Oliver and his wife Elizabeth appear Dr. Vilvayne, the founder of the exhibition at to have had four children, viz., Benjamin, who died Exeter School which bears his name, and who was in 1668, aged six and a half years; Francis, called in other ways eminent as a philanthropist. after his uncle, Francis Worth, andhis great uncle, They were the children of Peter, son of Stephen, Francis Bampfylde ; Jane, whodied in infancy, son of John Vilvayne. The will of Peter Vilvayne. 1667 ; and Joseph. Francis Oliver, who was who resided in the parish of Allhallows, Goldsmith deputy-registrar of the Consistory Court at Exeter, Street, was proved in 1602. is said to have “owned Cleave,” and to have left The OLD BRIDEWELLof the County of Devon it, in 1725,to his grandson, Francis Oliver. But (which stood nearly opposite the Sheriffs wad, he can only have had a leasehold interest in the now converted into “Artisans’ Dwellings”), issaid property, and the said grandson musthave died to have been an ancient residence of the Holland% without issue, as Elizabeth, widow of William Dukes of Exeter, by whom it was originallyerected. williams, M.D., and daughter of Joseph Oliver, the It was very strong and massive in its character, brother of Francis Oliver the elder, is described in and was converted into a house of detention in the her memorial inscription as “the last of that reign of Queen Elizabeth. respectable family.” She died on the twenty-fifth THE MANOR OF ExwlCK passed from the Of June. 1776, aged 77. Russells to the family of Oliver, who long resided Thomas Northmore, the purchaser of Cleave, there. Sir Benjamin Oliver, Mayor of Exeter. who was MP. for Okehampton, had no son, and 1670-71.was knighted by King Charles 11. during settled Cleave upon twonephews. The elder of his visit to Exeter in the latter year. He resided these, William Northmore, mamed his cousin Thc Parish af St. Tlromns. -. . .. . 167 Anne, the said Thomas Northmore’s only daugh- The daughter of this Reginald, Avis,was the ter. She died in I 7 I 7. wife of Richard de Redvers, third Earl of Devon, Cleave passed, under the entail, to the younger SO that Oldridge may probably havepassed nephew, John, son of Jeffery Northmore, the ances- through thelatter family into the hands of the tor of the present owner. Courtenays, and may have been one of their several The “heirsof Williams” sold Exwick IIouse, with gifts to Cowick Priory, subsequently to the death the barton, to Edmund Granger and Samuel Ban- of Labella de Fortibus. fill, the then owners of the woollen manufactory This theory is suuwrted hv thefact. that there is which took the place of the ancient Exwick mill. no mention of Oldri’dge in 6e earliest records of Sir Redvers Buller is now the lord of the manor. the Priory, nor is the chapel referred to in the “Taxatio” of ~znt. Exwick was formed into an ecclesiastical district . __ 1-. in 1872. A chapel-of-ease to St. Thomas, dedi- Atthe dissolution ithad passedwith Cowick cated to St. Andrew, had been erected there in into the hands of the Abbot of Tavistock, and it 1841, and this was enlarged in 1873.at the expense is included with the rest of the possessions of of Mr. William Gibbs, of Tyntesfield, who endowed in the “Valor” of 1535. it with a yearly income of &M). It is now a vicar- There were anciently five separate estates in age, of the yearly value of with residence, Oldridge, which extended, in all, to about four and in the patronageof Mr. Gibbs. hundred andfifty ames of land. The ancient chapel, In the Church of St. Thomasthere is a very which had been maintained from time immemorial handsome canopied tomb, with a recumbent statue, for the use of the inhabitants, wasconveyed to by Bacon, of the late Mrs. Medley, wifeof the John Lord Russell, with the rest of the property5 venerable Metropolitan of Canada, who was for and remained for some time in the Russell family, some years thevicar of the parish. until it was at length purchased bythe Trowbridges’ OLDRIDGE,which is distant about sixmiles from of Trowbridge. St. Thomas, and is in the neighbourhood Of George Trowbridge pulled down the old chapel, to own Crediton, has been identified as the ‘‘ Olperige ” Of and used the atones repair a portion of his Domesday. which, at the period of the Survey, W= residence (the communion table was long used as a held by Rainald, under the Earl of Mortain. Part of the furniture of the village alehouse), and. Robert, Earl of Mortain, was the Conqueror‘s it is said, that prosperity deserted his family and uterine brother, and the larger portion of his pOS- himself from that period, and that ‘I all those con- aessions. together with the Earldom of Cornwall. Cemed in the deaecration, especially one,who ultimately passed into the hands of Reginald de appropriated the chapel bell for his trouble, died Dunstanville, an illegitimate son of King Henry 1. miserably.“ I 68 The Suburbs of Exetcr. The Parish of St, Thmnus. - . _.- - .. -- -. . 169 Trowbridge House was soon in the market, and The succeeding Vicars of St. Thomas continued waspurchased by Samuel Strode, who sold it, to reside in this hou.se until 1781,when the then together with Oldridge, to Criles,son of Gilbert Vicar, the Rev. J. B. Coplestone, agitated for a new Yarde, of Bradley. dwelling, upon the plea, that the old one “was ex- Mr. Giles Yardegave the timber for a new chapel, posed to floods.” It was therefore determined that whichwas erected at the expense of Mr. James the premises should be leased for the largest fine Buller, the patron, in I 789. In I 791 the executors that could be obtained, subjectto an annual rent of of Mr. Yarde sold the lands in parcels. Oldridge ten shillings, reserved by the lessors. is still a chapelry, dependent upon the Vicarage of ’fie tenement waslet, on the fourth of December, St. Thomas. 1806, for ninety-nine years, determinable on three Eustace Budgell, one of the contributors to the lives, at the above-mentioned rent, which does not SficMw, is said to have been born in the parish of seem to have been subsequently enforctd, and in St. Thomas, in 1685, although his name does not consideration of a fine of L28o. occur in the parochial registers, which commence, The latter sum, together with L105 raised by a baptisms, 1541. burials, 1554. and mamages, 1576. rate, waspaid to Mr. Coplestonein aid of the Chapel says that “Budge11was born in Exeter expense of huilding a new vicarage upon a small about 1680.” piece of glebe-land near the church, and this house By indenture, on the twentieth ofNovember, was built at an expense of L1.oo0. 15b4, William Hams and John Jake granted to The poor of the parish participate in the “bread William Floyer, and others, a messuage and a charities” ofLawrence Seldon and Sir John

garden in I‘ Cowick Street,” lately the property of Acland. Walter Battyn, formerlyvicar of the parish, in Bartholomew Berry, of Barley,gave bydeed trust for the repairs and maintenance of the parish on the second of July, 1635, a plot of land “lying church. The deed recites thatthe said property near the pound,” out of the profits of which a sum was the gift of the said deceased vicar. of twenty shillings per annum was to be paid to the These premises weredemolished during the Civil “minister” for preaching sermons on Good Friday War, but were re-built by the parishioners prior tO and Ascension Day, and the remainder was to be the year 1672, in which year it was agreed that the distributed to thepoor ‘1 for ever.” then vicar,Rev. John Reynolds, should inhabit William Floyer was one of the original trustees. this house during his tenure of the Vicarage, sub- Mr. Berry seems really to have given instead of a ject to a yearly rent of ten shillings, to be em- specified sum, all his orchards, houses.and gar- Ploy4 by the churchwardens in accordance with dens in Cowick Street,” and the houses wee the intentions of the original donor. demolished in the Civil War. The premises, sub- Thc Purish uf St. Thorn. 171 -. .. .- -. -. . .

> these gifts to bedevoted to the relief of the poor sequently rebuilt, were used as the parish poor- house. of the parish. Two houses adjoining the churchyard represent Finally, William Gould,sen., by will, on the the ancient “church house,” and it is shown by a twentieth ofMay, 1632, gave four pounds yearly, lease, on the thirtieth of April, 1674, from Thomas to issue out of Hayes, at least hventy days before Reynell and others, executors of the will of William Christmas, and to be spent by the vicar, church- Gould, to Sir Thomas Carew, that the “church Of wardens, and overseers “in grey frieze, or St. Thomas had been burned during theCivil War,” blue cloth, to make jerkins and hose, for men and and that the chest containing the parish deeds and boys, and gowns forwomen and maids,” to be writings hadbeen then alsodestroyed, and that given to those in ‘‘ most need.” nothing of the house was remaining, at the above He also left f;to, “to be lent out gratis, on bond, to such .men as would set the wandering poor on date, but ‘I old ruinous walls.” The present houses were therefore built by the work, and that for a year or more ” ; and by codicil he gave an additional eight pounds, “yearly for parishioners, and were long kept in repair out of the rates, and occupied, rent free, by paupers. ever,” “to be disposed of at the discretion of his They weredemised by Gould‘s executors to Sir heirs and the minister of the parish for the time ThomasCarew and others, parishioners, fortwo being, to the. use of the poor.” hundred years, subject to a yearly rental of one shilling. The lease expired on thethirtieth Of April, 1874. WilliamGould, in 1637, gave a rent-charge Of eight pounds per annum, to which his son, William Gould, added two pounds in 1642,for the purposes of a parish school. Robert Pate, of Cowick Barton, gave thirty pounds in 1687, the interest to be em- ployed for the instruction of the children of poor people in reading and writing. Robert Pate, sen., in 1677 gave an annuity of twenty shillings out of Cowick;John Peter, in 1570, twenty shillings per annum out of the sheaf of ; Nicholas Evans, twenty shillings a year for ever, in 1618; and Elizabeth Painter, in 1812, the interest onehundred pounds;-d of I The Pnrish of A@hingtmz. 173 . ~ swine, onehundred and thirty-three sheep, five acres of meadow, and a hundred acres of pasture. and it was worth yearly Lt;4, and had not increased in value since Saxon times.

This I’ Robert,” the sub-tenant under Baldwin. CHAPTER VZ1.-THE PAKISFZ OF was probably one of the two younger sons of the ALPHZNGTON. latter, and, presumably, died without issue ; he mas for some time Governor of Brion, inh’ormandy, --c- of which town his grandfather, Gilbert. had been Earl. ALPHINGTON, in theIleanery of Kenne. is Robert hada brother, \Villiam of Avenel, usually about two miles distant from Exeter, on the stated to have been the husband of his own sister road to Plymouth. Emma, as already noticed in the account of Cowick This village takesits namefrom the littlestream- Priory, and this William, or his son, Ralph, would let called the Alphin,anciently the “ Alfrain,” appear to have succeeded ultimately to the Alph- which flows through the village. The short account ington property, since by deed, executed, as shown thisparish given bythe Lysons’ “htagna of by internal evidence, after 1142. and before Narch, Britannia,” Vol. 2, pp. 8-9, is very incorrect and I 155, William Avenel, son of Ralph, son of William, misleading. brotherto “Adeliza,” Baroness of Okehampton, Theseauthors appear to have confounded the thereforeto theother children of Baldwin manor with that of , andthe Matford and de Brion, viz., Richardand Emma,gave to the property,partially. with theestate of the Same Monks of Plympton, I‘ The Chapel of Exeter name, situated in the Parish of Heavitree. Castle, and the four Prebends, the Churches of St. Nphington formed a portion of the great Barony Michael, Alphington, and St. Andrew of Kenne of Okehampton, and belonged to Baldwin de Brian, Sheriff of Devon. hlmar held it under the name (Chen), which Ranulphus, my father, and Adeliza, his aunt, on the father’s side (“q’kamitu’) ‘gave of “ Alfreincombe,”in thereign of Edwardthe Confessor. It paid tax for one hide, which could them’ originally.” be worked by nine ploughs. It will be seen by reference tomy notice of At the period of the Survey, “Robert” held it W1hm of Avenel, in connection with Cowick, what under Baldwin, and had in demesne one virgate, VerY valuable evidence this document affords, the and two ploughs. There were then upon the manor original of which is preserved in the College of twelve villeins, twelve bordarii, or cottagers, five ArmS. serfs, one pack horse, five head of cattle, fifteen Possibly by gift on the partof William of Avenel,

i The Panih of AQhington. -. . ‘75 -74 -.Th$. Suburbs of Rxeter.. .. -. . property, and seem to have passed in marriage the younger, or of his father, Ralph, the next with Mary de Redvers to Robert Courtenay, who owner of the Manor of Alphington was Anianus, was at one time Sheriff of Oxfordshire, and died alias Eneon, Archdeacon of Anglesey, and Bishop whilst staying at his ManorHouse at Nuneham of Bangor, from 1267 to 1306. and after him it was Iwerne, then written ‘‘Ywren,” in 1242. owned by Sir John de Neville. NunehamCourcy, afterwards known as Nune- The Priory of Plympton do notseem to have hamCourtenay, had been,immediately after the long rctained the patronage of the Church, since Conquest, the property of Richard, son of Robert Bishop Bronescombe collated Hugh de Staneway, de courcy, whowas the brother of Richardde Dean of Exeter, to the Rectory, in July, I 263, and, Neville, ancestor of that noblefamily, and this his successor, ‘I John of Excester,” afterwards Trea- recollection may havehad something to do withthe surer of the Cathedral, was presented by Sir John exchange of the Manor of Alphington for that of de Neville on the twenty-ninth of June, 1278. Nuneham, although, as I have already remarked, I The Nevilles seem to have obtained the manor in have not found any evidence that the Nevilles and exchange with the diocese of Bangor. It was their Segraves were in any way related to each other. property until 1359, when SirHugh de Neville The first Patron of Alphington after the presented. Soon after it became the property of Courtenaysbecame the owners,was SirPeter Hugh de Segrave, probably by purchase. Coufienay,who presented his nephew, Richard, Sir John de Neville wa a Churchbenefactor, eldest son of Sir Philip Courtenay, byhis wife, Ann and founded a religious establishment at Stoke- wake, to the Rectory, on the sixth of April, 1403. Courcy, in Somerset : but I have found no evidence This Rector became on sep- of any marriage with the Segraves, which would tember the twenty-seventh, 1413, but died two account for the descent of the Alphington property. years subseauentlv. However, James de Cobham exchanged Alphington Rectory for Sampford Cowtenay, with the consent of his patron, Hugh de Segrave, in 1361-2, and shortly after the year 1382, Hugh de Segrave ex- changed the Manor of Alphington for that of Newenham Courcy, in Oxfordshire, with Sir Philip courtenay, of Powderham. The advowson of the soon after, however, became the property of the Earl of Devon. The Manors of Nuneham Iwerne, Co. Dorset, and Nuneham Courcy, inorfordshire, were Redvers

i TIM Suburbs of Exeter...... - ! who died at Padua, in 1556. Thelast Courtenay 1 rvrnained.and the thenvmner was Sir William who exercised the right of patronage was the said Courtenay, of Powderham, who, lfc]idrc, succeeded Earl Edwards father, Henry, blarquebs of Exeter. to thc earldom, although he died without claiming Earl of Devon, and Lord of Okehampton, \Vho it, Soon after the deceasr: of his kinsman. He met was beheaded by Henry VIII., in 1539. ! his death at the siege of St. Quentin, on the twenty- ! sixth of September, 1557. William Oldreve ‘I occurs as Rector ” in 1536. He was the incumbent of the living at the time Of But a great deal of the property belonging to the the EcclesiasticalSurvey in that year, when his elder branch of the Courtenays, was dispersed by the co-heirs. for the purposes of division, and the benefice was valued at L34 6s. 8d. per annum. By his will, dated August the eleventh, 1558, he desires advowson of the Rectory of Alphington, became a requiemmass for the repose of his soul. He the property of JohnHourchier, Earl of Bath. gives forty shillings for the repair of the fabric. William, third Earl of Bath, sold several pm- sentations, and €3artholomewParr, Rector of Clist Four poor women were to attend the ‘‘ requiem ” St. Mary,presented on the tenth of February, with tapers in their hands, and to have five pence I eachfor their trouble ; twenty of the poorest 1637-38, the right having been assigned to him by inhabitants were to receive twenty penceeach. the then late Rector of Alphington, John Doughty, The will wasproved atthe Principal Itegistry, who had acquired it from Lord Bath. Exeter, on the tenth of June, 1559. Rachel,Countess of Bath, presented to Mph- ington, as late as She was the widow of Sir Upon the death of Edward Courtenay, at Padw 1677. in 1556, the estates belonging to the Earldom were i Henry Bourchier, who had succeeded his nephew divided amongst the representatives of his great I as fifth Earl of Bath, in 1636. great aunts, the four daughters of the second With the deathof the fifth Earl, the title of Bath, I in the Bourchier family, became extinct, and the Sir Hugh Courtenay, of Bocconoc and Haccombe. j The “Inquisition.” taken after the death of the advowson Of Alphington was again sold, and the Earl (who in consequence of his father’s attainder, Purchaserswere the Pitman family. The first of had been so created by Queen Mary, in 1553, with them is described as “John Pitman, of Kenton, remainder to his heirs male, for ever), proved that Yeoman.” the descendants of these ladies were Reginald Three of the Pitmans held this Rectory between Mohun, Alexander Arundell, John Vivian, the the years 1712 and 1768, with an interval of a year younger, Margaret, wifeof Richard Buller, and two, between September, 1739, and March, 1742, JohnTrelawny. The Manor of Alphington, had ! and the presentation remained with their family always descended in the Powderham branch of for several years subsequently, until it passed into the Courtenays, and with them it has since I thehands of the Ellicombes. The patronage is l N i The Purish of ri&hinglon. - The Subwbs Krctcr..-. [?9 178 .. generallity), never eyes beheld, and I find nothing nowwith the Rector, the Rev. E. J. G. i)upuis. so ill heere as ye natives, wch are p worst genera- After an of two hundred and seventy- tion of people ye worldaffords. I shall onle five years,the lord of the Manorof Alphington, the instance one thing as to ye excellence of ye land, third ViscountCourtenay of Powderham, estab- becauseye messenger's baste will permit me no lished his claim to the Earldom of Ikvon on the longer time, I have here about my old castle, fifteenth of March, 1831, and then succeeded as %me 5 or 6 and thirty thousand acres of land, the ninth earl of the creation of 1553. He died most of wch are as good as anyland in my manw unmarried, on the twenty-sixth of May, 1833, when of A@hi#ghta, and better naturally, yet I am forct the baronetcy, and the earldom, with its propefi? to sett ym for lesse at twelve pence an acre, wch including the Manor of Alphington, passed to h13 goes to ye heart of mee, yet it cannot be helped. second cousin,William Courtenay (sonof Yr. K. R If ever God Almighty punish Ireland again, 'twill Courtenay. I~rdBkhop of Exeter), father of the be for their excesse in eating and drinking, which far exceeds England, though I thought in those vcrtues we couldnot be outdone. till 1 had ex- perimented it here. Pardon this hasty incoherent scribble, and a better and perfecte account of this kingdome shall be given you in my next, by, Sir, Your faithful Servant, descendants." Wzum COWRTENAY." 1Ie foI1owingcopy of a letter written by his AIPhingtonChurch is dedicated in memory of grandson, Sir William Courtenay, during a sojourn St. Michael, and comprehends chancel, nave, north in Ireland, and addressed to Mr. Gilbert Yarde, Of and south aisles, a westerntower, and a south Bradley, is stiU preserved at Powderham- Sir Porch. The church is about ninety feetlong, in- William died on the twenty-eighth of July, 1702. clusive of the tower, whichis over seventy feet high. The bw&h of the nave and aisles, which latter Open into the nave under an arcade five bap, is -.., - .______~~~ ~ of yselfe and family, yf neither distance of place, over forty feet. seas, rockes, mountains, nor boggis, could hinder There is an aspersorium, or holy water stoup, me tiom sending you my faithfull service,and wish in the Porch, and the font is of Noman date and both youand y: all happinisse imaginable. sf Peculiarlyrich in style. It is of circular %m, since my landing in this kingdom, I have traveled and round the top is a representation of the combat some hundreds of miles, but a richer soyle (for the Of St*.Michael with the Great Dragon, who is thunderstormin 1826. On this occasion four of thrusting his lance into the monster’s mouth; the ringers were sttuck by lightning,and the behind theSaint is the figure of his dug. The sexton’s son, George Coles, was killed. There are sculpture is in bold relief, so also is the ornamenta- eight bells in the tower. tion of the lower part, which consists of a Norman The rectory was valuedat A8 per annum in I 291. arcading, the points of thc arches intersecting one Judging fmm the font, it is probable that this another, a style which is considered to have church was built by Ralph Avenel, with the con- heralded the introduction of the pointedarch, sent of his aunt Adeliza, Lady of Okehampton, which commencedto supersede the circular towards and that they immediatelyhanded it omto Plymp- the end of the twelfth century. ton Priory. This must have been previously to One of the piers which support the arcading had a double capital, 1142, as Adeliza died in that year. between the nave and aisles, Richardsucceeded his father, Baldwin,in the a rather unusual feature ; the lower one, however, Baronyof Okehampton, and died in 1137, when wascut away in 1827, as noted by Dr. Oliver. he Was followed by his sister, Adeliza. these two The remains of piscine at the east cnds of the aisles being the children of Baldwin de Brion, by denote the site of chantry altars. Albreda, niece of William the Conquemr. Robert The church of perpendicular,or generally is de %on, William Fitz-Baldwin de Avenel, and, it date, and was probably extensively third pointed has alsobeen believed, Emma, were children of altered and added to in the fourteenth century, in mmmonwith most of our Uevonshirechurches. Baldwin de Brionby a second marriage, and It is certain, as shown by inequalities in the the baronywas inherited by Adeliza masonry. that the original structure was, at some instead of by her two half-brothers. time, considerably lengthened. But from the ultimate judicial exclusion of the The church was extensively restored in 1878 at 4venelS from the succession to the barony, in an expense of about f;3,000, and the ancient rood favour Of the descendants of “Emma,” it would screen was then repaired at the cost of the Earl Of certain that this lady, the wife of Devon, brother of the prevent Earl. de :Ibrincis, must have been the issue of ‘fhe Prior and Convent ofSt. Nicholas, at Exet& Bddwin de hion’s first msrriage,and whole, half-sister to &eliza. had an annual pension from the church of two of shillings, and proved their right to it in 1330. On It give Some idea, as to the difference in the i twooneoccasionsor thePrior presented to the Of money, to remark that Alphineon rectory, in 1310, and again in 1390, probably by ““‘.q)which WaS worth A8 per annum in 1291, concession of the truepatrons. ha in value tothe amount of L3., ad. The tower and church suffered from a sevm In 1536* ’Ihe tithe rent charge is now €794 per The Z’arish of A l#hingh. I 83 182 The S&r& of Exeter. _- ...... -.. - . - . .- -. - .-. .. .__ ., .. - -._- . .- - The last of the Xurthleighs. Stephen, married a annum, and there are twenty-six acres of glebe. co-heiress of Ilavey, and died in 1713. The parish registers commence alike in 1663: the His heiress married I-lippisley Cox, and Henry earlier ones have been lost. 11. Coxesold Matford to Sir Laurence Vaughn The ancient cross may be seen on the high road, I’alk, Baronet, the ancestor of Lord Haldon. near the entrance to the village. Almost immediately opposite to this estate, but ‘here were fairs at Alphington on the first on the other side of the river, is another property Wednesday after the twentieth of June, and in the also called Matford, but situated in the parish Of week after Michaelms, but they have beendis- Heavitree, to which have referred previously. continued since 1870. It is unlikely that they were I Lysons has confused the twoMatfords, as of any great age, as they are not mentioned in the 1 have alreadynoticed, and has seated Sir George Hundred Rolls. The entryin these of a market and Smith” in Alphington inslead of Heavitree. Be- fair for Alphington, at Michaelmas, evidently refers to , as noted by Lysons. tween thetwo estates, however, thereis a ford across the river which forms the continuation of a Risdon tells us of a man who diedat Alphington mad between Alphlngton and Heavitree; it crosses in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, aged 120 ; he W= called Stone, and held office in the Chapel Royal. the water just below 8‘ Salmon Pool.” Westcote, by the way, furnishes a touching story This road must have afforded a very short cut about a lady, of the parish of St. Thomas, who had between the Londonroad at Heavitree, and the a dog which was so much affected by its mistress’s Plymouth road at Alphington, and the two Mat- death, that it afterwards declined food, escaped to fordsdoubtless took name from the ford,which the churchyard, and died on the goodlady’s Probablyartificial, and therefore known as grave. “ Mad-ford,” i.c., Made-ford. or ‘1 Mad-ford.” The father of the late Charles Dickens resided It has been suggested recently that the names for some time at Alphington, but the greatnovelist bear reference to the ford, but that they are Was born at , in 1812. from “Mate or Matan Ford, that is, the Matford, in this parish, was an ancient seat Of track across the stream.” This would be, I the Dinham family, and was thence known as a Plausible interpretation, if any such signi- MatfordDinham. It was subsequently the pro- fication could be found for the Anglo-Saxon word :. j perty of a younger branch of the family, *‘hiatan,” Which is usually translated “Somniare,” who ultimately acquired Peamore by marriage with to dream. Gower applies this word to the effects of the heiress of Tothill. dnmkenness, and it is written by Douglas, (1 Mait” Robat Northleigh. of MatfordDinham, was and “Mate.” Dr. Richardson gives themeaning buried at Alphington, in 1639, of the “to be, or cause to be, insensate.” .. The Parish of ,d&hingt~~~.~ I 85-

or 11 Custodes,” have been recovered. Of the first The othcr .hglo-Saxon verb, “Metan,” from of these, Thomas Cryer, the following anecdote haq which “Mate.” that is, onc of a pair, is derived, signifies to meet, whilst ‘*braten” comes from the been preserved. Thecook of the prioryassaulted him with a Anglo-Saxon, Bealatt, not Alf8h71. Thcre is another place in this county known as drawn dagger, and Cryer knocked him down meith a stick, and inflicted a severe wound on his head. “hlatford,” in the parish of Hemiock, and which from the effects of which he died three days after- probably owes its name to a similar ford across the Culm. wards. Bishop Stafford on September fifth, 1409, The ancient Priory of ‘1 St. Mary de hfarisco,” Pm- long known as hfARSH BARTON,which was a Cell nounced Cryer free from censure in this matter. and to Plympton Priory, is chiefly situated in theparish permitted him to resume the exercise of his Off@% of Alphington, although it extends into that Of St. and his priestly duties. Thomas, as previously noticed. The Cell of St. Nary de hfarisco had a consider- According to Dr. Oliver, Marsh Barton is mm- able amount of property in Exeter, and thesuburbs. tioned in a letter of Ralph Avenel’s, addressed to viz., land and tenements in the parishes of St. Sid- Robert Warelwast, Bishop of Exeter, between the well, St.Stephen, Allhallows, GoldsmithStreet. years 1155 and I 160. But thisletter was of St. Paul, St. Pancras, St. Ifartin. St. Petrock [two earlier date than he supposed, and was really ad- tenementsand four shopsin HighStreet), St. dressed to Bishop Chichester, I 138-1 155, instead Of Kerhn !two tenements. a stable and garden), St. Bishop Warelwast. OlaVe (two tenements and fourshops), St. Mary Because Ralph Avenel was dead when his son Arche, I‘ Coke Rew,” St. Mary Major, Holy confirmed his fathefs previous gift of the Church Trinity, St. George, and St. Mary Steps. of Alphington, andthis confirmation must have The houses, shops, and small pieces of land in been in, or previously, to the year 1155, since it these parishes, and in ‘I Coke Rew,” near the Con- is addressed toRobert, Bishop of Exeter,to duit, produced an annual incomeof ~23I 2s. 7d. Baldwin the Earl, and to Richard,son of the Earl. In AlPhington the monks had about seventeen Bishop Robert Chichester died in March, I 155 ; acres Of land, land beyond Exminster, and several Baldwin, Earl of Devon, on the fourth of June, the houses and gardens. worth, inclusively, AI 8s. d.a Same year ; and Bishop Robert Warelwast was not Year. consmated until the day after the Earl’s death, In Heavitree they had four acres of land, near Viz., on the fifth of June, I 155. the mad- the village, between the Granary Marsh Barton seems to have been a very small of Henry I.Iule and that of the Prior of St. James’, foundation, and only the names of four Superiors, near the Marsh.“ .. l t I i I j

And. in the immediate neighbourhood of the last, innercourt of the priory, were discharged from they had another four acres. The totalrental of attendance at hlphington Church. i ‘‘ Marescornbe, nigh the city of Exeter,” was, The old inn, known a5 the ‘‘ Admiral Vernon,” according to the Valor Ecclesiastims, A28 a. I rd. at Alphington, was theancicnt Church HoU% clear of all deductions. built on land given in 1499 by Sir w11liam In 1546, King Henry VIII. granted the site of Courtenay, of Powderham, great great grandson Of Marsh Barton Cell to James CoBin md Thomas the first Sir Philip Couttenay,and of his wif& Godwin. Anne Wake. Coffin seems to have built a mansion” there, The house was leased on the third of May, 1784, or else he converted the priory into a residence ; in for ninety-nine years, determinable on three liw% 15% he sold to John Hoker, the City Chamberlain. for a fine of f;roo, and a yearly rental Of.&. all the trees, oak, ash, elm, &C., &C., standing in The income which arose from the fine, Was the grove at the south side of “lllarsh mansion applied to the repair andnew seating Of the church, house,” between the running water on the south, andthe annual rent, togetherwith another the and the open pasture, adjoining thc said mansion, interest of a bequest under the will of Edward on a on the north, the great pool the west, and Leach (April the twenty-fourth, 1688). W- dis- ditch on the east. For these, and some other oak tributed at Christmas, in bread to the poor. trees, standing on the south-east of the mansion, Under the grant of Sir %‘i:illism COurtenaY. the paid Hoker L27. rents and profits of this house were intended to be James Coffin. of Marsh Barton, was the third son used for the reparation of the parish church. and of Richard Coffin, of Portledge; he died in 1566. the Charity Commissioners did notconsider that and was buried at . He left four any portion of them should be applied to the relief daughters, co-heirs ; three of them married Wye. of the poor. When they made their rePO*, the Gere, and Mallett. $1Admiral Vernon ” was considered to be worth So that James Coffin was not, as Lysons says, an annual rent of at least A.30. the an=eslm of Mr. Richard Pyne-Coffin, of Port- ledge, who however, the owner Marsh ! was, of HAJ~LYNFAJIIIL~. Barton in 1822. m James Coffin was married on the fifth of Feb- ~‘J-P 1559-h to Elizabeth Ede, at Ashton under Haldon. “ St. MT’sAcre,” at Manh Barton, was tithe f- but none, save the immediate residents of the

I 188 The Suburbs of Exeter. 189 -...... - neHumlyn Fnmib. - .. .-._ ~ the parish for ever.” At one time the rent of these this deed was evidently executed after theWA orman lands secms to have been dcvotcd to the repair of Conquest, and there can be no doubt as to the the Church, but the Commissioners wereof opinion identity of the particular ‘‘ Hamelin” who witnessed that they should be applied for the benefit of the it, as I shall be able presently to show. poor. The name of “Ihnelin” occurs in several copies A branch of the Hamlyn family were long resi- of the “Battle Abbey Roll,” and so does that of dent in this parish, and also in the neighbouring “ Baylon ” or a‘ Balun,” and it is well known ones of St. Thomas and St. Leonard ; in the that the Conqueror’s army was made up of Canti- latter, they were settled at Larkbeare from a very nental adventurers, and was by no means restricted early date. to his Normansubjects. Amongst his followers James Hamlyn, of Alphington, died in 1625,and, were many Germans, and it wouldseem certain. three Years later, Roger Hamlyn, as shown above, therefore, that the Hamelins themselveswere Of was a benefactor to the poor of his parish. They the latter race and were nourished upon the banks were cadets of the ancient house of Hamlyn, the of the river Hamel, and were subsequently known history of which is coeval with all that is actually as “The Hamelins,” just as we should speak now authentic in the history of this county, and the of ‘: The Scotch ” and ‘1 The Irish” in reference to earliest documentaryevidence in existence bears the constituent parts of a modem army. record to the high social position of the Hamlyns, The townof Hamelin,in LowerSaxOny. is not only in Demnshire, but in many other English seated at the confluence of the Hamel and we% counties as well, although it is possible, and very and is twenty-twomiles distant from Hanover; probable, thatthe onlyconnection between the and it is only thus that the numerous Hadins Or Hamlyns Of the West and those of other parts of Hamlyns, who settled in England andbecame England consisted in identity of name. simultaneously possessed of land immediately afler This,like many other English surnames,was the Conquest, in this and other counties, can be evidently derived fromtheir habitation in a watered supposed to have originated. ValleY. and ‘‘ bnna ” being both Saxon “h#” l We find them settled at veryearly dates in term% expressjve of the home by the pool, or , Warwickshire, WOrCeSterShi, OX- Water i and thus we get the Geman 61 Hamelin,” fordshire, Ghcestershire, and Rutland ; and that the town on the river Hamel. they founded families, henceforth knownas “Ham- It has been thought that the earliest record of l lyn,” and transmitted to them their lands and “ Hamelin ” in this county m-S in a (6 Saxon houses, through long succeedirrgages, is abun- deea’‘ quored by Risdon ; but, from the mumnce dantly evident fromour public rewrds, an enonnous in it Of such namesas “VeWfipont” and u~~nCelS,” l mass of which have been cduY examined for the purposes of this short history of the Hamlyn the other ‘‘ Hamelin,” mentioned in theRattle family. Thus, in 1274, WilliamHamlyn was ap- AbbeyRoll, in the Lordship of , pointed to the custody of Leicester and Warwick. which is a rather singular coincidence. John Hamlyn was paymasterand leader of the Andit is now time toreturn to this “other levies in Shropshireand at Stafford, in 1314. Hamelin,” for with his namesakes elsewhere we Soonafterwards Geofty Hamlyn had a com- havereally nothing whatever to do, although it mission to protect the Prince of Wales (the Black has seemed to me necessary to refer to them, in Prince), in Gascony. order to account for the fquent recurrence of the The two most important Hamlyns of the eleventh name in ancient records. century, were the two whose names are mentioned ‘I Hamelin” of Devonshire and Cornwall, called in the BattleAbbey Roll, who were. quite possibly in Domesday “Hamelinus,” was the ancestor of brothers, and were known respectively as ‘‘ Hame- our Devonshire Hamlyns. He most probably came line.” and“Hameline de Balun.” The latter, to Cornwall in the immediate train of Robert, Earl known usually as I‘ TheSire de Uayloun,” had of Mortaigne. the half-brother of William I. This doubtless been a man of some importance in the Robert was created Earl of Cornwall, and it was diocese of Mons, where the French town of Ballan in Cornwall that by farthe greater portion Of is situated. and had most probably migrated there Hamelin’s property was situated. from Germany at some period anterior to the In that county, either under the king or under Conquest. King William gave him the territory the earl, he held twenty-two important manors in of Ober-Went, in Monmouthshire, and hebuilt the 1086. Some of his posterity remained in Cornwall, Castle of Bergavenny by his royal master‘s orders. whilst others settled in Devonshire. Of the former He lived until thelatter end of thereign of it will be enough to say that, like their Devonshire william Rufus, but died childless. He left the kinsmen, they always occupiedgood social POSi- whole of his property to his nephew Brian, son of tions. as shown by patent and subsidy rolls, Par- his sister I-ucy, whose two sons were lepers. liamentary writs, and similar undeniable evidences. Thefore thisBrian settled his lands upon his Thus, Hamelin was Reeve of Launceston in 1207. cousin, “Walter of Gloucester,” then High Con- Albertand Richard Hamelyn both Occur more stable of England. than a hundred years later in Cornish records- The son of the latter was created Edof Here- But I must still confine myself to Devonshire. ford, buthis male line failed, andone of his In this county, (1 Hamelinus” is shown by “Domes-

three daughters became the wik of Sir ” to have held his land entirely under the Earl I Braose. Their descendant, Eva Braose, married of Mortaigne, and it consisted Of the Manors Of ;I williamde cantilupe, who had then succeeded Broadhempstonand ofAlwingtOn, which latter j ! 192. . . The Suburbs 01 Exeter. -- - The Hamlyn Faanrib, -- - .. _. . ‘93 is the property referred to in the “Saxotl deed“ 1 the son of Turold, who held the Widecombe Manor have cited above. of Natsworthy undcr the earl, as did Erchenbold The entry in the Exchequer copy of the Sur!?’ the Manor of Bratton. near , which, at proves that ‘‘ Ilamelinus” held hoadhenlpston- about the same period (I 187-1200), also passed to Hamistone,” as it was then called, “undcr the Hamlyn. Earl.” and that it was iaxed for two hides of land. The descendants of the first Hamlyn of Wide- which could be worked by ten ploughs, and that he combe and Bratton werevery numerous, and himself farmed sufficient for two ploughs. spread consequently into numerous branches. One He had on this property three seds, ten villeins of the most important of these settled in the or small farmers, nine cottagers. Thc manor con- hundred of Wonford, and the fifth in descent from sisted of four acres of meadow, ten of pasture, and “ Hamelinus ” of Domesday was Richard Hamlyn twelve ofwood. In the reign of Edward the ofWonford, who flourished between the years Confessor,when Ordulf the Saxon ownedit, it I 166-1216. He mas the father of ‘‘ Hamlyn of was worth forty shillings per annum ; it had in- Wonford,” who resided at Larkbeare, as shown by creasedin value, under Norman rule, to sixty the “Fines,” 3rd Henry 111, and also of Hamlyn, shillings. surnamed “the Harper,” of Hill, in the Parish of Upon the Manor of Alwington, Hamelinhad . ten serfs,fifteen villeins, and fifteen cottagers. Hamlyn of Larkbeare was the ancetor of the Thislatter estate, however,soon passed to the Hamlyns of Exeter, St. Thomas, and Alphington. Coffins, whose representatives, in the female line, Those of Exeter, in the course of years, prospered are still settled at Portledge. in mercantilepursuits, and gave mayors to that city, But although the Hamlyns (I shall henceforth and filled other municipal offices, and from them is adopt the modern spelling of their name) scan disap- descended the present ‘l Squire” of Paschoe, in peared from both their original settlements in this Colebrook, and of heWood, in the Parish of county, yet they simultaneously acquiredother . It isshown by the subsidy dip. of possessions in the immediate neighbourhood ; and 14th Henry VIII. that Henry Hamlyn of Exeter, that this was effected by exchange of land is Thomas Hmlpof Totnes, and Richard HamIyn certain, from the fact that, in their fresh acquisi- of Widecombe, all held lands at that time Of Over tions. they continued to hold under the same lord .&o per annum rentd. parambunt. Hamlyn, surnamed the “Harper,” is Sl~Ownto Thus the Hamlyns of Widecombe, who may be have ben the son of Richard Hamlyn, Of wonford, considered the heads of the family, obtained their by the Fine rolls ; and Hill, the estate upon Which first property in that parish by barter with Richard, he W= settled, remained in the hands Of 0 ; :i

I94 The Sudurbs o/ Exeter. The Uamlyn Farnib. -.. . .-- .. - . -. . ‘95 descendants until a few years ago. when it was sold William de Pomeroy, had held Dunstone at the by the father of Mrs. William Hamlyn, of Buck- period of the Domesday Survey. fastleigh, the present owner of Littlecornbe.He He left a son, John Hamlyn. also of Dunstone. was the grandfather of Sir William “Hamlyn de whose descendant, also called John of Dunstone, Deandon,” called by Pole the son of “William” is mentioned in the “Coinage Rolls” of 1412, and [Hamlyn] I‘ de Deandon,” who was certainly his was the grandfather of John Hamlyn, mentioned heir, and also of Walter Hamlyn, of Widecornbe, in the same rolls in 1442. His son Robert, of who, with Alice his wife, is mentioned in a legal Dunstone, 6th Henry VII., was the fatherof Richard agreement of the 3znd Henry 111. Hamlyn, of Dunstone, who succeededto his inheri- Sir William Hamlyn de Deandon, an estate in tance in 1506 and died in 1522. Widecombe,which had been purchased of the He had four sons. Robert, Richard, Thomas, and Pomeroys,was also the owner of Bratton. He John. was one of the knights appointed to make a return Of these, Richard Hamlyn was the ancestor of of the great assize for Devon, 34th Henry 111. l&? those of his name, long settled at Southcornbe, in had no male issue, but his brother, Walter Hamlyn, Widecombe. already mentioned, carried on the line, and was the Thomas was of Spitchwick, in Widecombe and father of William Hamlyn, of Dunstone (Assize of Littlecombe,in Holne. He was buried at Rolls, 34th Edward I.; of John Hamlyn, of Chittle- Widecombe in 1574, and from him descended the ford(Coinage Rolls, 31st Edward I.) ; of Hugh Harnlyns of Higher Ash, Lower Ash, and Lake. Hamlyn and Roger Hamlyn, both of Corndon, all To him I shall have to refer again. estatesin Widecornbe Parish ; and of Robert Robert Hamlyn was eldest son and heirof Hamlyn, M.P. for Totnes in 1311. Sir William Richard. He L6recove~d”Dunstone in 1522. 14th Hamlyn of Deandon had another brother, who Henry VIII., on his fathe

i i I

196 The Suburbs of Exeter. The ffam(yn Family. I97 . -_h - -. . proved 1760,is sealed with the ancient arms of the especially of the City of Exeter, and which was Hamlyn family. originally introduced and fostered bythe Cistercian Robert Hamlyn, of Chittleford, eldest sonand monks, still flourishes in the valley of the Dart. heir of Robert, was ancestor of William, posthumous Of their ancient property at Widecombe, Lower son of William Hamlyn, of Dunstone, who died in Ash yet belongs to the family,although it has 1736. He sold that ancient family property, and very recently passedto an heir female. Littlecombe died in 1782. is still the property of Mrs. Wm. Hamlyn,the elder, His uncle, Hugh Hamlyn, was settled on the as I have remarked already. Manor of Blackslade. The second son of Hugh. Sir John Hamlyn, of Larkbeare,father of Sir John Hamlyn, born at Widecombe, 1738. sold his Osbert, was at Bouroughbridge in 1322, and his property in that parish, and removed to Brent. arms are duly recorded upon the roll of the Knights His son, Joseph Hamlyn, purchased land in Buck- present atthat historic contest: ''(iules, a lion fastleigh, and died in 1866. rampant ermine, crowned or:' He founded the woollen manufactory there, after- This short sketch of the Hamlyns would be in- wards carried on by his sons,Joseph, John and complete without some reference to the branch of William, and which has since developed into the the family which long flourished in much repute great firm known as Hamlyn Brothers, the affairs at Woolfardisworthy. They seem to havebeen of which are now conducted by James, Joseph. descendedfrom John, fourthson of Richard Hamlyn, and William Hamlyn. of Widecombe, and brother to Robert and Thomas, These gentlemen, with their brothers, John, paternal and maternal ancestors of the present Thomas, and Hugh, are the sons of the aforesaid family of Buckfastleigh. william Hamlyn, by hismarriage withMary, The first Hamlynof thie parish, William Hamlyn, daughter of his kinsman, James Hamlyn, of Shutt- was of Mershwell, and his arms as PreViOUSlY aford, Hill and Littlecombe, in the parish of Holne, blazoned, were on two shields in painted glass in and the direct descendant of Thomas Hamlyn. son one of the windows at Mershwell,with the date of Richard. who died in 1522, and brother of Robert 1540. William Hamlyn was born 1540, and buried Hamlyn, of Dunstone. at Woolfardisworthy in 1597. By his sife, Agnes It will be seen that from the period of the Norman Yeo. of Stratton, he had a son William, who- son conquest to the present time, the main branch Of William, of Mershwell. was baptizedat WOOlfardiS- the Hamlyn family have always been large land- worthy, on the twenty-first day Of oCtOb% 1579. Ownem in this district, and that it ismoreover in a His son, William Hamlyn, married Gertrudecays g.eat degree due to their energy, that the woollen and was buried in 1708. He hadissue by her .ethe old staple industry of the county, and fourteen children, and at his death his son 198 The Suburbs of Excler. The tlumlyn Family. - - . . - -- . I99 Hamlyn, of whom there was a tine painting by As might naturally be expected, thereare fre- Highmore,engraved by Ardell, succceded to quent mention of the Hamlyns in old parochial Mershwell. and municipal records. apart from the public docu- He was admitted a member of Lincolns Inn, but ments, which I hare already said have been very never married. Before his death he had realised a thoroughly examined for the purposes of this large fortune, and he purchased the Estate history. I mayadd that William Hamlyn was of theCary family in 1729. This,with other MP.for Totnes, as far hack as 1260; and that the property, he settled by will in 1758, on his grand- ancient family of Monk, anciently Le Moyne,of nephew, James Hammett, eldest sonof his nephew, , quartered the Hamlyn arms in right RichardHammett, whose motherhad been his of marriage of their ancestor, Adam lehhyne, sister, Thomazin Hamlyn. The picture of Zachary with the daughterand heir of Hamlyn, of Cocking- Hamlyn was destroyed in a fire at Clovelly House ton. Adam le Moyne was the great grandson of in 1789. He recorded hispedigree at Heralds' Hugh leMoyne, of Potheridge, ten). Henry I. The College, but did not carry it back further than the great grandson of Adam, also called Hugh, lived WilliamHamlyn I have mentioned as buried at 3rd Edward I., and was the direct ancestor Of woolfardisworthy in 1597. General Monk, born at Potheridge on thesixth Richard Hammett's eldest son, James Hammett, of December, 1608, and subsequently Duke of upon whom the propertywas settled, took the Albemarle. name of liamlyn. by Act of Parliament, in 1760. The pedigree of Hamlyn, of Widecornbe and and wascreated a Baronetin 1;95. He died Buckfastleigh, from the Richard Hamlyn who died. in 1811. He hadmarried Arabella, daughter and 1522, appears inColonel Vivian's edition of the heir Of Thomas Williams,of London, and hadissue, Heralds' Visitations of Devon. James, who in 1798 assumed the additional surname - of Williams. lie was succeeded in 1829, by his son, Six poor labourers of the parish of Alphington JamesHamlyn-Williams, as thirdBaronet, who are entitled to participation in the gifts Of Francis married Lady Mary, fourth daughter of Hugh, first and Daniel Vinicombe, the latter having . his land at Matford, in Exmimh, now the Property They had nomale issue, and theeldest daughter, of Colonel Tmod. with thirty shillings a Year for Susan succeeded to the Clovelly property this purpose. She mmied Lieut.-Col. Fane,who took the The paor alsobenefit from the charitable bequests dditional name of Hamlyn, and hadone son, Of Richard Hayne, who left L30, in 1696, Samuel Neville Batson Hamlyn-Fane, born 1858, and three walkey, LIO, in 1721, and John Pitman, A.5, in daughters. 1732. 20 I -200 2he Strdurbs of Lxehr. I_- It is possible that the “Almshouses” in Alph- widowof the Earl of Albemarle, andsister and ingron, Purchkm3 of John Tregoe for the sum of heir of Baldwin de Redvers, eighth Earl.--Total, d.$5,in 167.5. were procured through the donations eight earls and one countess. of the Lambsheads, and of Firlelis Stoyle. men- Revived, by peremptory cmwn mandate, AD. tioned above, and that the latter had no share in 1335. in favour of Hugh Courtenay, then hebat- the purchase of the Holcombe Burnell property. law (through Lady Mary. his daughter) Of William The dates on the tabletin the church, which records de Redvers, of Vernon, sixth Earl. these benefactions, are posterior tothe acquisition of Forfeited by attainder of Thomas CoUrtenaY, the Holcombe Burnell property by the parishioners 1+6z.-Six earls. of Alphington. N.B.-John Courtenay, brother of ’nomas COW- tenay, did not “recoverthe Earldom“ as stated in the text, pap ,m, only portions of the estates

ADDITIONAL .VOTES.

Page 16-John Bankesmarried atSt. Mary- Arches, Exeter, in1660, Rebecca,daughter and co-heir of Richard Crossing, by Elizabeth,his Wife, Sister of Sir John Dodderidge. The Crossing Shield at Whipton (on a chevron, between three crosslets fitcheh threeroundels), has beneath it the letters ‘‘ R.B.” ; that of Bankes, the letters “ J.B..” and the date 1697.”

i 202 AddiCIbnaZ Notes. --. .- - by patent, 1618. “To him and the heirs male of his body.” Earldom still existing. Dormant in the “heirs male ” of the earl of the creation of 1553, during the lives of smw of them, successive owners of Powderham Castle, who were a’ejkre Earls of Devon. Title recovered, in virtue of said patent of 1553, by William, ViscountCourtenay, of Powderham, 1831. From his lordship, five earls to present date, January, 1892. Total holders of the dignity of the Earldom of Devon, in the houses of Kedvers and Courtenay, from A.D. I 101 t0A.D. 1892.-(&efactoand &jfm)- Thirty earls and one countess. One earl of the house of Stafford. One earl of the house of Blount. Eleven earls of the house of Cavendish. Present earl of the latter race, Spencer, eighth Duke, and eleventh earl of Devonshire, January, 1892. The words “ Devon,” or “Devonshire,” as em- ployed in the several patents, although considered by many to be a distinction, arc entirely without dayrnencc.

COKKECTIOXS. Page 46. “Ammi“ is a misprint for Ani>-. I) 47. ‘‘ Countercharged” is a misprint for ‘‘ counterchanged.” 19 50. For “ this intimate” read, ‘6 their inter- mittent.” 204 rndcz. Bop. 17 Clara, Amici. de, 85 ; Gilbert Braddscll. Rev. F., 5: de. 85 Brantyngham. Bp. hmn. 11 aarus. St., 28 BR-. EV~,rgo; SirWm. [go Clement, John. 13; St., 28 Bmrcly&. Joan, 85 ; Richard, Cleveland, Exra. 75. 14% &C. 135; Wm.. 8 I 9' Clinton. Lady A.. 34; Baron, Brewer.Armso?jg; Grace.37; ' 34; RobertLord, 34 Wm.. Bp. Exon. 36.37 Clopton. ra7 Brice. St., 112 i Clotaire 11.. King. 25 Briannc. John de, g6 1 clevis I.. 5g ; 11.. 25 Brion, Arms of, g,; Bdd~n, ' Cnut. King. 121 7S,81; Rich.,78; Psmily.78, ! Cobham. Jas. de, 174 81,171. 181 I Coffin, Jas.. 186; Richsrd, 186; Broneambe. Bp. Exon,46 ' The Coffina, 192 Brooke. York Herald. 95 Cola, 111 Brooking. Mary. 160 Coles. Gm.. 181 Browns. Sir Anthony, 101 Collyna or Collins. 66# 72 ; Budgcll. Euntace. 168 Elizabeth, 47 ; Sir John. 47 Bullu, Elizabeth. 160; Jamea. : Colsworthy, 70 160; Margaret, I*, 176; Sir i Confraaor. The, S Redvrm, 105. 1b0; Richard, , Constantine, St., 16 'W , Conybeare. 138 I Cmke. 18

Philip. 41 ! Chrrdon. Dr. John. Charkm 11.. Kingof Enylnnd, 55 Chauvenl. Andrew de, Chency Family. 127.135 Chaiton. Jcmc. 135 Chidenleiah. Arm. d. ~.3s Chicvre. Wm.. 11 Chimeldon. John. 53 Chrismanwe.Amu of, 35; John 46 Christinedc. of St. Lconuds, 61 ; 206 Index.

Fit-Ansgot, 145 i Heloysa. z45 Fitr-Baldwin. Wm., Herbert, Henry Lord, 102 Lambahcad. Ann. 187 i Rogers Fit=-Edc. Robt., ;S, rbt. dins Hertford. Earl of. $0.93. '90 Abrinds, 157 Hereward, Sir Ed.. 126 Fitr-Gerald. Margwet, Us ! Hill of Spaxton. ra7 Pitr-Giibvl, Rich.. 79, Hokcr, 4; John. I Fils-How,Hnbm g ;Matt- Holby. Chrirtina. 65 hew. g Holland, Roper. 163 ; TbM.. Fitz-John. ID; Joan.g; John.9: ! 94,163 Matther. y; Wm., g Hooper. 71 Hupkina, Ezekitl. 135 kgbWm.. 13% Fitz-Osbomc. 86 Leishe. Hugh, 45 ; John. 23 ; Fitr-Tumld, Richard. 193 liorsington. Wm., 55 ; Hubha. Sohn. 45 CS FIorus. Prince, 74 Sa F~OYR.161 ; Anthony. 16a ; A. M'. F.. 162; &ic. 162; Rich., 161 ; Wm., 162, 168 Pmd, Si Clare, 12; John, 45; Rich., 12 FWtnCUq Lord, 198; Lady M., ~.--. *os H;khmMm. Wm. XI Hylleard, Thos, 55 I

1 Montacule. Shun de. 18 Mmrr Elizabeth. 48: H..48

80.83. 166. 191 Monimer.Eleanor.g5; Roger.95 Mountiov. Lord. loa

N NLmur, Marquis d. 97 Neville, Hu h de. 174; John, 91. 174; ffich- I75 Nicholas (Pope),63 Northcote. Gwrge. 11 Nonhlcigh. Robt..da; Stephen, T 183 Of- 3% 42 Northmore. JeRry, 1%: Tha.. Poltimore. Lord, B 11. 110 16+ 165 ; Wm.. 166 Pomaoy. JeAry de. 1%; Rich. Noyon. Bishop of, 25 de 80 Nut. Wenman. 57 Pomfrett. Kathcrinc 66 ; Thm., 0

1. t P Radfordc. 69; John. 17: LW- mnce, W. 68 Rainnld. x66 Ralagh. Margaret, 66 ; sf Walter. €g Ralph. 83 Raven. The, xlo 2 IO Index.

i

W

NOW IN PREPIRITIOY. i

A Few Short Extracts from Press Notices of Mr. WORTHY'S Works. YAs~su~rosAXD ITS Nl;l~~auuu~~~cm"- *.Its comprehensive title scarcely doer justice to it6 cuntents. Much re-h has beenexpended. We have derived SO much pleasure from the examination of this volume that we shall bc VrrY glad to welcome P SYCCEIF.~~of the same charncter."-Nuvtk DrVOU 3ournal. Nov. 9th. 1875. "An important contribution to our Count? History. Gleaned from the lonpreapd fields with much care."--CVdern Tires. ,'THEMAWR ASD CIWRCHOF WINII.KIGH~'- '.Thcr~ordEontaillraccuuntsoftheManor.Parirh,andHundred. the Church. the Vicars, and Charities, and of rrvcral famik connected with the neighbourhood, notahly of the GidIcy8.''- Wertnm kfworninf A'e~rrat. Sept. 12th. 1976. "NOTE6, (iEXRALOGrCA1, b-YU HrST0RKAL"- "Devon~hirc is fortunate in having SO~Rwho take 60 much intelligent interest in her antiquities, and Mr. Worthy has prod himselfone of the best among them."-Exdn Gnrrlb, Nov.qlI8%. '' LIPROF LOUD1ooesr.sr~n"- "An opportune life of the late Foreign kcretar ha6 ban pub- lishedby MT. Charles Worthy,..the Devonshire dstorian."-Thr World, jan.19th. ~887. "We have here a brief but very % history of the NoRhcote Farnilv."--Endnnd. zznd. 188.r. I ..~~Ian.~ ~. ~~ .~ DEVONSHZKEPARISHES 'I- "A very paimtaking and pleaat vdumc which will be read wirh eat interest hy the topographer and genealogist.'-Vanity Pam me 19th. leeS. Y "Records of this kind are often a means of ensuring the pre- donof valuable objects. Mr. Wmthy has devoted considtrabk space to ming the dewentsof mm-, and the genealogies of the pe~pkwho held thm."-Sntwdny Rnirm. July. I-. "Mr. Worthy ia am antiquarian of the highest repute. His history of 'Drvomhire Pariahm' will hand his name down to posterity PI one of the gremttest of our Devonshire hintorians." Ezdw Daily Gaselb, June yth, r8Sp. hACnSU. HRIAI.ORY'g- "A vaclid and compendious guide to the kinating 6tvdy Of heraldry. arduly and lucid. and amply illvnrnted from dcaigna by /' the author:'- Nota andOurrirr. Im.. ,U&. r

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