BANGLADESH

May 2019 | Pages 80 | Everything Sourcing | www.apparelresources.com

52 MYTH BUSTER: MISUNDERSTANDINGS ABOUT TNA CALENDAR 14 UP CLOSE WITH NEW BGMEA PRESIDENT DR. RUBANA HUQ BEIGE BLOWOUT & other top ranking trends for F/W '19

68 SUSTAINABILITY CONSCIOUSNESS PROPELS GROWTH IN ‘SECOND-HAND’ APPAREL RETAIL INDUSTRY 24 TECHNOLOGY, IE AND TRAINING REMAIN THE CORE OF BANGLADESH APPAREL INDUSTRY

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SHIMA SEIKI and WHOLEGARMENT are registered trademarks or trademarks of SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. in Japan and/or other countries. ©2019 SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. CONTENT Vol. 8 ISSUE 1 MAY 2019 Lead Story FFT Trends Up close with new BGMEA President Dr. Rubana Huq Your Insider Access to Dr. Rubana Huq shares her roadmap with AOB; details out efforts and steps to tackle Fall/Winter 2019 Trends p62 all burning issues facing the industry... p14

Exporter Perspective Bangladesh Canvas Technology, IE and Accord’s exit and probable Training remain the core of sourcing shift p42 Bangladesh Apparel Industry In today’s time, the buyers are constantly asking to reduce unit prices, whereas the cost of production for the manufacturers is going up because of increase in the input cost and also because of huge investment made towards enhanced social and environmental compliance norms... p24

47 Sustainable BD Recycling gaining currency in Bangladesh Once discarded, fabric cutting wastage is now being recycled by many. Thanks to popularity 68 of circular fashion among global buyers... Resource Centre World Wrap Dekko Accessories along Sustainability with Agami geared up for consciousness propels the future with complete growth in ‘Second- solutions and flexible hand’ Apparel Retail The second-hand As the end consumer Industry capacities apparel retail industry is booming becomes more demanding and difficult to rapidly and is expected to surpass the please, the textile value chain is increasingly challenged to constantly innovate to remain fast- fashion industry in the coming few years... in business... p32

Tech Management Myth Buster: Misunderstandings about TNA Calendar Time and Action Calendar or TNA is a technique for tracking and following up on the important milestones in pre-production processes to ensure timely delivery within stipulated delivery date... p52

6 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com

FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’s DESK…

New President... New hopes! The strength of a woman as a mother has been a universal truth from time immemorial, but it is sad that a woman as a human being has had to prove herself time and again to be considered as an equal to a man. History has shown that in every age, women have played an important role in shaping the destiny of nations and even of history itself… Yet it was only in modern times that women started to question the gender bias that they have been facing for generations. Fast forward to the last 100 years and one finds many strong women in almost every sphere of activity, be it in scientific research, medicine, corporate world, performing arts, social activities, politics or governance. The political arena in the Indian sub-continent has been dominated by women, something even the western world is yet to match with EDITORIAL TEAM the US still to seek its first woman President! EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Deepak Mohindra Bangladesh in particular has been in the strong and purposeful EDITOR Ila Saxena hands of the current Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina since 2009 DEPUTY EDITOR Deepankar Shyam making her the longest serving Prime Minister in the history COPY EDITOR Veereshwar Sobti of Bangladesh. SUB EDITOR Priyanka Mishra The stability which Sheikh Hasina has brought to the country and CREATIVE TEAM Raj Kumar Chahal the resultant developments that it has seen is for all to see. Anyone Peeush Jauhari who has been visiting the country in the last decade is awed by the Satyapal Bisht transformation of the country in all areas, from infrastructure to PHOTOGRAPHER Vishal Chaudhary business opportunities. OPERATION DIRECTOR Mayank Mohindra Of course, much more is needed and development is a continuous Renu Mohindra endeavour, but her strength of conviction in the country and PUBLISHER & MANAGING DIRECTOR +919810058986, 01964874405 its abilities is an edge that is reflected in the pride of being [email protected] a Bangladeshi! COUNTRY OFFICE In a country where a woman has been the instrument of change, Apparel Resources Private Limited comes another woman at the helm of an important organisation with Apartment B-2, House No. 26, Road 18, Block A, a determined passion to take the Bangladesh garment industry to Banani, Dhaka - 1213, Bangladesh Phone: +880 255035623 the next level…, a level that is long term and sustainable. Dr. Rubana Huq is no ordinary lady living in the shadow of her HEAD OFFICE husband; she has been an equal partner in the growth of Mohammadi Apparel Resources Private Limited Group, shouldering the responsibility of the company, equally with B-32, South Extension-1, New Delhi-110 049 (India) Phone: 91-11-47390000, her late husband. She has shown guts in following her dreams to do E-mail: [email protected] a doctorate at the age when most women are interested to become Web associate: www.apparelresources.com grandmothers and to take charge of BGMEA only because she wants SUBSCRIPTION RATE to put Bangladesh at the top of the sourcing chart in garment retail. Yes, I wish to subscribe to It was indeed a pleasure to interact with her and understand Apparel Online Taka 2400.00 12 issues the blueprint for a new BGMEA that will address professionally *This rate is valid only for subscription in Bangladesh those areas that are or could be roadblocks in the way of progress International subscription (in Dollar) - and growth. Credit Card using www.apparelresources.com Telegraphic transfer to Bank Account No. 03192320003806 Her dynamic personality, wit and clarity of thought were reflected (Swift No:HDFCINBB) with HDFC Bank, D-9, South Extn. Part-2, in her replies. What was also interesting is the fact that she is not New Delhi-110049. INDIA a lone player but a team player and is determined that each elected member of the association has a meaningful role and responsibility. SUBSCRIPTION ADVERTISEMENT AND This collaborative approach to growth is a positive sign for the ENQUIRY GENERAL ENQUIRY +8801842814616 +8801842814616 industry and is for sure going to change the way the BGMEA has [email protected] [email protected] functioned in the past. +8801611547143 +919811088666 We at Apparel Online wish the new team at BGMEA a very [email protected] [email protected] successful tenure and offer our platform for sharing thoughts! [email protected]

8 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE REQUIRES A SUSTAINABLE COMMITMENT

1,050 KILOLITRES WATER SAVED EVERYDAY 9,20,000 TONNES OF CO2 EMISSIONS REDUCED ANNUALLY 30 TONNES OF FABRIC RECYCLED PER MONTH THROUGH GARNETTING

25 MEGAWATT SOLAR POWER PLANTS INSTALLED IN RAJASTHAN

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 9 MINDTREE

Q-and-A The inaugural edition of Apparel Sourcing Week (ASW), organised by Apparel Resources, in Bangalore, evoked overwhelming response from Bangladeshi manufacturers who want to make a foray into the booming Indian fashion retail sector, expected to touch whopping US $ 115 billion soon. Don’t you think more such regional sourcing events should be organised to exploit the emerging opportunities optimally, and what should be the frequency of occurence of such events in a year? Please share your views...

Sandeep Golam easily cater to their demand. However, from my personal experience, I would say that in order to exploit the capabilities of the Bangladeshi Group Operation Director, Armana Group manufacturers better, Indian buyers need to have good order volumes Sourcing events provide a good platform for the exhibitors and should and wide-ranging styles as manufacturers here appreciate bigger happen twice a year, but not necessarily with the same manufacturers order volumes to keep the production lines running. Having said every time though. that, I would also like to add that there are also large numbers of It is critical to understand that meaningful conversions from these events factories which are not listed due to issues like higher compliance happen with time, as it takes time for the retailer to instil trust in a new requirements, workers’ wages, etc. as such giving another option for country/manufacturer. More than adding a country or focusing on a few the buyers with smaller order volumes. So far we have observed that manufacturing destinations, these events should focus on all the product Indian market demand is bit different than other countries in terms of categories being covered in retail to make it meaningful for retailers to quantities/styles and prices. However, one issue that puts doubt to look forward to each edition of the show. India as a destination is their strong import policies; besides most in India prefer their own products (Made in India). In this context, I feel India may add some extra duties in near future like import duty/state cost/education surcharge/other surcharges, etc., which would make the import cost high, and could pose as a barrier. However, I am Binod hopeful that business would boom for the time being. Asst. Manager – Merchandising, Li & Fung India Pvt. Ltd. I personally feel Apparel Sourcing Week (ASW) should be held twice in a year and the most suitable month to organise the same would be April, Ashish Sharma and preferably in Bangalore. Director Marketing, Anzir Apparels Limited I would give 10 out of 10 in terms of performance for the inaugural issue of Sourcing events like ASW should happen twice in a year as they are ASW. For me minimum workable MOQ would be 500 pieces (fashion) and important platforms for the manufacturers to explore new territories and 1,500 pieces (basic) and I would also prefer to see more suppliers from also meet seasonal needs. But since India is still a relatively small retail India in the future editions of ASW. market, not big enough yet for conversions to happen fast, it is better to Also, apart from what has been showcased in the 2019 edition, I would host ASW once a year so that there is time for the players to work on like to see more women’s fashion items, more value-added products and the feasibility and other aspects that perpetuate long-term business. trims suppliers. POST YOUR COMMENTS www.apparelresources.com Khokon Chandra Kundu [email protected] Director – Marketing, AKR Group First of all, I would like to thank the organisers of ASW. Although the event NEXT MINDTREE QUESTION ought to have been organised a bit earlier, I am sure it is also right time to The new BGMEA team has taken over responsibilities under the take such good initiative. It’s a great chance for all apparel manufacturers/ leadership of Dr. Rubana Huq recently. Considering the various sourcing companies to get an opportunity to meet each other, understand challenges the industry is facing, it would not be wrong to term each other's capacities while also getting to know the customers’ the current phase as critical one, smart handling of which in many demands. ways would determine the industry’s future in the coming days. We have a nice relationship between India and Bangladesh since a long Keeping the same in perspective, what should be the focus areas time especially due to India’s cooperation during the Liberation in 1971, of BGMEA going forward, to ensure that the industry continues on and it is becoming stronger by the day. its growth path? India is a big country/marketing territory, has a huge consumer base and Please share your views… own brands, etc. So in this connection Bangladeshi manufacturers can

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Up close with new BGMEA President Dr. Rubana Huq Dr. Rubana Huq shares her roadmap with AOB; details out efforts and steps to tackle all burning issues facing the industry

am here to change, not follow…’, Jadavpur University (Kolkata)…,” Dr. Rubana Huq’s statement, says a beaming Rubana, well aware The much-awaited elections for the office-bearers of ‘Ispeaking to AOB exclusively, sums of the fact that some detractor Bangladesh’s apex garment manufacturers’ body, the up her character and vision for the somewhere is anticipating a Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters industry! damp squib from the new BGMEA Association (BGMEA), was held sometime back. First woman President she could be President, which she won’t allow to of the apex apparel manufacturers’ happen. What’s more, she isn’t going President and Managing Director of Mohammadi body, she isn’t here to be labelled to stretch her tenure of two years Group, Dr. Rubana Huq (who is also the wife of Late just as a woman chief but rather further to achieve her goals either. Annisul Huq, ex BGMEA President and Mayor of be considered an educated woman That’s the confidence one should Dhaka North City Corporation), took over as the new leader, whose conviction to change have… President of BGMEA. A multi-faceted personality, comes from her knowledge and “For me it is going to be a huge battle Rubana is the first woman chief of BGMEA, and has strong belief system. It’s not every but I am going to do it…,” says a taken over charge at a time when the industry is going day after all one would come across a confident Rubana while unveiling her Doctor of Philosophy (PhD) donning through a very crucial phase. roadmap that encompasses six key the hat of BGMEA President. areas, namely brand building, price If on one hand there has been a significant rise in “My thesis paper was on post- negotiations, markets & policies, workers’ wages, on the other the industry is facing partition English Literature with productivity, sustainability and long-standing challenges of falling profit margins, special emphasis on poetry. I got innovation, to take the industry to infrastructural bottlenecks, image crisis, rising my PhD degree last December from new heights. overheads, declining price points, recurrent increase in gas price, etc. Add to these the lingering concern of remediation and workplace safety with Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh approaching the judiciary in a last ditch effort to ensure its stay in Bangladesh while global brands and retailers associated with it allegedly mulling alternative sourcing options in case Accord has to make an exit. Apparel Online Bangladesh (AOB) caught up with Rubana and one of the new Directors, Miran Ali, to know how BGMEA is planning to steer the industry out of the troubled waters and give it a new direction, more so when the goal of US $ 50 billion in apparel exports by 2021 is looming large. In the lead story of this issue, we present to you the roadmap of the new BGMEA President as shared with us, Miran Ali’s candid observations on the future of the industry and how Rubana could be the deciding factor in building a positive image of Bangladesh in the global arena. Effort has also been made to gauge the industry’s sentiments on the contentious issue of fair pricing that has emerged as a bone of contention between the buyers and the suppliers…

Dr. Rubana Huq, President, BGMEA

14 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com LEAD STORY

From the Perception change BGMEA, we will We don’t want is the need of the form a Bangladesh to be the hour and I would not separate cell if the cheapest destination, shy away from the apparel owners feel but competitive… idea of even hiring that they need lobbyists. help for price negotiation.

To start with, she is planning to Rubana on her part is going to overhaul the very structure of engage with the media to ensure that FACT FILE: BGMEA in terms of its composition the right kind of messages reach the DR. RUBANA HUQ and functioning. As a part of this “Time has come target audience. endeavour, each of her deputies l Managing Director to run the show “I don’t think we have to do huge (Directors) would be tasked to professionally… projects or spend lot of money in exclusively work on one designated of Mohammadi My main project tweaking what we already have. Group. The Group focus area to make sure that the Everybody has great practices in trade body is not a one-man show is to invest in began by exporting educating my their factories, but where are those and, a collective approach is put forth stories, why aren’t they heard?” asks readymade garments to bring in the changes. colleagues. I am Rubana, determined to change the and then diversified “Time has come to run the show also going to narrative now. headhunt for a into software, digital professionally… My main project is Next on her priority list is the competent CEO distribution, real estate, to invest in raising awareness in the issue of fair pricing… Having spent industry as to the importance of a who would look power generation and thousands of dollars on remediation, well-managed association. I am also after the day-to- exporters are still fighting for just media. going to headhunt for a competent day office affairs prices to survive and sustain let alone CEO who would look after the day-to- while my job flourish. l Has featured in BBC day office affairs while my job would would be to set “In price negotiation, we have been 100 Women in 2013 be to set the vision and work towards the vision and unable to take collective initiatives. achieving it,” underlines the new and 2014. From the BGMEA, we will form a BGMEA chief, which brings her to the work towards separate cell if the apparel owners l Won the SAARC Literary point of elaborating on the scheme of achieving it.” feel that they need help for price things to improve the country’s brand Award for her poems in – Dr. Rubana Huq negotiation. No matter what the image. 2006. buyers say we should be firm and The so-called poor image has long strong. There is no country that has l Wrote a book of poems been a concern area for the industry the massive capacity as Bangladesh,” titled Time of My Life. for sure. underlines the first lady chief of “Perception change is the need of the BGMEA, adding, “…We should not l Is a member of board hour and I would not shy away from engage in uneven competition. Instead of trustees in Asian the idea of even hiring lobbyists. We of increasing our number of lines, why can’t we come together and turn the University for Women. are planning to hire good PR agencies in London and Sweden and a few whole industry into one entity…?” l Served as the CEO of lobbyists from Geneva, and this might Rubana gives a clarion call to the TV Southasia from very well change how Bangladesh industry while emphasising that when is looked upon currently,” says it comes to markets and policies, a 2006 to 2010. Rubana highlighting that the negative multi-pronged approach is what is l Awarded PhD from campaigns abroad have often rocked needed to break new grounds. And the industry and these must be foremost in this aspect is economic Jadavpur University. addressed with caution. diplomacy involving the High l Writes regularly for Given the fact that a lot of effort has Commissions, Foreign Ministry, the Ministry of Labour and BGMEA. a weekly column in gone into turning the industry to what it is today by all the stakeholders “The Commerce Ministry could English newspaper, The and still be facing the barbs, calls for take the lead and others should Daily Star. ready facts and figures and strong come together under this umbrella voices at global platforms to dispel to achieve the goals,” elaborates such disparagements. Rubana.

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 15 LEAD STORY

While post-Rana Pilots could be It’s time for low- Plaza ushered in done to assess the end manufacturing a whole new era of basic needs of the to graduate to remediation, doubts industry and innovation the next level of around sustainability could follow our re-skilling... continue to haunt industry needs. the sector.

Considering that some major competitive…,” asserts Rubana; see; Bangladesh today has the markets have failed to yield underscoring such an approach second highest number of green the desired results despite the if inculcated would help increase factories with some even scoring the potentials, the MD of Mohammadi “Wage has to productivity while addressing the maximum in sustainability index Group-turned BGMEA President be set based on issue of wage hike effectively by globally. is in favour of FTAs specially in making a clear connection between skills… And if What it calls for now is to keep the Europe, Bangladesh’s second wage and productivity. momentum going, which as per biggest apparel export bastion. we are to do that we would also “Wage has to be set based on Rubana, with the help of well- “If Bangladesh has to qualify for skills… And if we are to do that meaning international brands, GSP plus there are at least 27 have to train our we would also have to train our unions and development partners, requirements which are more or workers to think workers to think differently. The the industry is more than capable of less governance issues that have differently. The wage-skill grid must be practised doing. As to the monitoring part of to be fulfilled. Under the given wage-skill grid to assess the basic efficiency of the it, local engineers (who have worked circumstances, FTAs are another must be practised workers, which would translate into under various initiatives and have route to explore opportunities in to assess the a win-win scenario for all,” explains complete knowledge of the sector as individual markets,” says Rubana, basic efficiency Rubana driving home her point of well as the remediation process), is citing examples of a few such of the workers, performance-based incentive to set what is required currently. Support names. the ball rolling. from the stakeholders, would just which would add to the efforts, feels Rubana, According to her, markets like Saudi translate into a Having spelt out the roadmap to Arabia reportedly import over US tackle the five burning issues, convinced that given the level of $ 3,000 million from the world and win-win scenario Rubana now gets down to elucidate maturity Bangladesh garment yet source just US $ 75.61 million for all.” her recipe on sustainability (the sector has achieved, technological intervention is what is needed to worth of apparels from Bangladesh – Dr. Rubana Huq new focus area of retailers and end at 5 per cent duty, while Russia users) and innovation, the one that graduate to the next level. imports total of US $ 7,000 million hinges on vital parameters of the “It’s time for low-end manufacturing against that of US $ 427 million latest that technology has to offer. to graduate to the next level of from Bangladesh. China which has “While post-Rana Plaza ushered re-skilling so that more jobs can be zero import duty is no exception in a whole new era of remediation, created to address the intermediate either. Out of total US $ 7,560 million doubts around sustainability challenges. Pilots could be done imports, Bangladesh’s share is continue to haunt the sector. The to assess the basic needs of the reportedly mere US $ 391.64 million. common perception is that not all industry and innovation could Same is the case with Brazil and of us want to sustain the positive follow our industry needs,” Rubana Mexico which respectively imports changes and, somehow the verdict explains, adding while interventions only US $ 158 million out of total is always in favour of us being like bio-printing are already in import of US $ 1,794 million (against monitored. Little do we make use, it’s Bangladesh’s capability to a duty figure of 35 per cent) and US it known that we have poured produce its machinery and spares $ 148 million out of total US $ 3,775 in so much investment into our using the latest in technology, imports (with 20 per cent duty). production units that we now can’t which would be the next stage of But will FTAs alone help capturing afford to see all that go waste,” development and growth. these markets now that workers’ states Rubana. “It’s an era of innovation and wages have increased substantially It’s a well-known fact that efficiency…,” winds up Rubana on (hiked by more than 50 per cent), manufacturers have spent big to a positive note, giving an insight of thereby shearing the country of its make most up-to-date factories her developmental blueprint for the competitive edge – the so-called tag that are at once safe and secure industry not to mention her burning of ‘cheapest manufacturing hub’. while also being socially and desire to create an example out “We don’t want Bangladesh to environmentally sustainable. The of the Bangladesh RMG sector for be the cheapest destination but results are here for everyone to others to follow.

16 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 17 LEAD STORY

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Vietnam only competition for Bangladesh: Miran Ali In an exclusive interview, the new BGMEA Director speaks his mind on the present and future of the industry

s the elections for the BGMEA Coming to the vital question of else, businessmen in countries like President and Directors got over workers’ wage hike, I don’t think ours are more of person-centric Arecently, the new team is now readying it’s an issue in itself. The issue is than team players as most run itself to take on the mantle – amidst “Rubana's that of high cost of production, of their own businesses where they challenges and opportunities – to leadership would which wage is just a part. There have absolute say. Hence, we felt guide the RMG sector of Bangladesh help BGMEA to are several other factors involved it wise to divide the roles and to new heights. responsibilities accordingly so that reach out to the in it like having huge WIPs to Miran Ali, a leading entrepreneur, meet the uncertainties, banking there’s no confusion and conflict Honorary Consul of the Slovak stakeholders and each one has total clarity as to and those who complexities, high interest rates, Republic in Bangladesh and MD of etc. So going forward, we would what is expected of him or her. Bitopi Group is one amongst the matter in a first narrow down the focus I am very hopeful of things Directors… He speaks to Apparel much better and areas and each Director would be changing for good at least in Online Bangladesh (AOB) in a no effective manner. tasked to look after one specific creating a positive perception of holds barred interview underlining the She has what it issue in totality. Call it the sub- Bangladesh garment industry. what's and why's of their scheme of takes to spread continental mindset or anything Many brands that had left things going forward, and how the new our message far board of directors, plan to achieve the same. Here are the excerpts… and wide to help mould a positive image of brand AOB: The industry Bangladesh.” is undergoing a transformational phase. – Miran Ali Various factors (wage hike, gas price increase, need of image building, etc.) have posed new challenges. What is the plan of new BGMEA team keeping future in perspective? Miran Ali: Yes you are right! Personally, I see a lot of changes happening in the next 6 months or so. The new BGMEA Board will take over responsibility on April 20; currently we are busy drafting the roadmap as to our actions, goals and deliverables, which include all relevant issues including those of branding, moving up the value chain, improving logistical issues, etc. Miran Ali, Director, BGMEA

18 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com LEAD STORY

Bangladesh in the aftermath of consensus on this soon. However, AOB: In terms of products Rana Plaza are coming back… we have decided to allocate budget FACTS Overall, we are going for a multi- towards brand building and also anything new that pronged approach to tackle the decided to hire a renowned agency The days of Bangladesh can start doing existing contingencies. to steer the PR exercise. volume business to beat the price blues? is now giving way Miran Ali: I think we should AOB: The industry’s image AOB: As per your reading of to smaller runs, concentrate more on value-added makeover has become things, what is the biggest value-added items offerings… Currently, other countries are mostly bagging such challenge for Bangladesh and shorter lead critical lately… What’s the orders but if we can sink our teeth times. Even though game plan? garment industry at present? there, business opportunities Miran Ali: We are planning a long- Miran Ali: I would say the changing certain amount of are immense. I have started two term and sustained approach global retail landscape. The days volume business new factories for outerwear and involving all relevant stakeholders of volume business is now giving is still there but it activewear lately. One more aspect to change the perception of way to smaller runs, value-added is not sustainable that we have to concentrate on Bangladesh apparel sector. items and shorter lead times. Even considering the is how to get the business that is though certain amount of volume If media is going to play a profit margins. Now shifting from China, which is now leading role to help strengthen business is still there but it is not having created moving up the value chain into our position in markets of UK, sustainable considering the profit other sectors. our factories Germany and North America, we margins. Now having created our factories and production and production would be working closely with AOB: In terms of various groups and entities that processes, keeping volumes in processes keeping have helped businesses establish mind, there is an urgent need to volumes in mind, competitors, who do you and flourish in the West. bring in the change and flexibility there is an urgent think is inching closer to so that we don’t lose out on the need to bring in the Bangladesh? smaller orders. AOB: How would Rubana change and flexibility Miran Ali: Vietnam for sure… In immediate future, Vietnam is going Huq help in this end… What At personal level, I am also facing so that we don’t lose this challenge. So what I have done to catch up with us value-wise in out on the smaller would be her role? is split up four long production exports. Apart from Vietnam, I Miran Ali: The very fact that she’s lines in my factory to around 12 orders. don’t see any challenge. Cambodia highly educated, articulate and smaller lines to capture those is going down; as of India is with years of hands-on knowledge smaller orders. concerned, there’s no substantial of the industry is a big positive The industry as a whole needs growth; Pakistan on the other hand in itself! Her leadership would to become efficient at that while is more into men’s denims and help BGMEA reach out to the trying to cut on the lead times. home textiles; and Sri Lanka is not stakeholders and those who matter Fast fashion demands sharper in this competition any more. in a much better and effective lead time and to be in this game, manner. She has what it takes to we have to reposition ourselves spread our message far and wide AOB: What about Ethiopia accordingly. Even though a deep to help mould a positive image of and Myanmar? port would come up by 2022 which brand Bangladesh. Miran Ali: As far as Ethiopia is would help in improving the lead concerned, I would give it 6-7 years time but till then we would have to show up in the manufacturing AOB: With more than four- to look at other avenues… One map prominently let alone aspect that we are looking at is decade of manufacturing becoming a competitor; and as trying to work out joint venture history, the industry has so far Myanmar is concerned, its opportunities with India and much to showcase… What business with domestic markets China in secondary processing. would be your pick in this of China, Korea and Japan is good Bangladesh is over 60% self- but otherwise it is yet to make any brand building exercise? sufficient in denim fabrics as dent in the global arena. Miran Ali: Even though we have well as over 90% in knit fabrics, decided on the roadmap, we are but what we are still lagging is And now with chances of Myanmar currently brainstorming on what in synthetic in which the global losing the GSP benefit, business is we want to sell to the world, will apparel business is growing not going to be very prosperous for it be workplace safety & workers’ compared to cotton. Both China them. And add to it their primitive welfare, manufacturing practices and India by virtue of their banking and customs, which is & efficiency, sustainability… strength in synthetics can be of doing no good to the apparel We are hopeful of reaching a much help to us. exporting sector.

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 19 LEAD STORY

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Industry’s new recipe to fight the price challenge… BGMEA President Dr. Rubana Huq promises a cell to help garment makers in the all-important issue of price negotiation

ample this, as per a report by “…still 70 per cent of the buyers are Rubana’s focus on price Mark Anner, Center Director, giving low prices for the garment negotiations gains more relevance PennS State titled: Binding Power: product, despite improvements in in light of experts’ opinions on The Sourcing Squeeze, Workers’ As per BBPPI quality, workplace safety and labour price points. As per a consultation Rights, and Building Safety in mounting rights,” complained an aggrieved meeting organised by South Asian Bangladesh Since Rana Plaza, pressure from Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin, Network on Economic Modelling, the price paid by lead firms to President of the Federation Bangladeshi exporters were not supplier factories has declined by buyers due of Bangladesh Chambers of getting fair and reasonable prices 13 per cent as a result of which to their cost Commerce and Industry and also due to lack of negotiation skills. supplier factories’ profit margins negotiation a former President of the BGMEA Speaking on the occasion, former have decreased by 13.3 per cent. strategies speaking to the media. Bangladesh Bank Governor Atiur It’s not the only report highlighting impacts the The complicacy of this issue has Rahman said that negotiation price pressure on the garment suppliers’ social, forced the Government to take up skills at both the entrepreneurs’ manufacturers. There are scores environmental, the matter even at global forums but level and the Government level and including the one from Better quality and other without any result. relationship with buyers were very Buying Purchasing Practices compliance “We’ve modernised the (RMG) important for reaping fair prices. Index (BBPPI), which underlined factories. We have ensured The Government should help the how most garment suppliers face performance. manufacturers and exporters mounting pressure from buyers building and fire safety with an due to their cost negotiation improved working environment to improve the skills along with strategies. in place. Owners have invested creating clothing brand and a lot in these areas but price of building the country’s image As per BBPPI such practices apparel products is yet to be hiked. abroad, underlined Rahman impact the suppliers’ social, Price needs to be increased…,” while Bangladesh Knitwear environmental, quality and other pleaded ex-Commerce Minister Manufacturers and Exporters compliance performance, while Tofail Ahmed in one of the TICFA Association’s Second Vice- according to some experts if meetings held earlier where he President Fazlee Shamim Bangladesh has increased wages underlined how Western buyers do Ehsan said that the local by 263 per cent over the last 10 not want to raise the prices on some exporters were getting lower years, prices have gone for a pretext or the other. prices for RMG products than what nosedive, falling as much as by the Cambodian and Vietnamese almost 6.63 per cent and 7.33 per However, now with Rubana Huq exporters were getting from the cent from the two major export (Managing Director of Mohammadi global buyers. destinations of USA and Europe, Group) taking up the position of respectively. BGMEA President, many are hopeful Focusing principally on its image of of things changing for better. And cheap manufacturing destination And this after investing massively why not, after all Rubana has to bag orders, Bangladesh has in compliance issues as per buyers’ promised to help garment makers in failed to match with them on price demands while also increasing the workers’ wage by more getting fair price for their products. front, which has been its Achilles than 50 per cent in the recent She has planned to establish heel, many believe. past to comply with the social, a separate cell to help the But under Rubana’s leadership, environmental, worker and work- manufacturers in the all-important underselling its capabilities is related parameters. issue of price negotiations. going to be passé, it seems.

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Technology, IE and Training remain the core of Bangladesh Apparel Industry In today’s time, the buyers are constantly asking to reduce unit prices, whereas the cost of production for the manufacturers is going up because of increase in the input cost and also because of huge investment made towards enhanced social and environmental compliance norms. This, as a whole, increases the financial load on the manufacturers. In such circumstances, the only available path is to increase productivity by having a complete control on the entire supply chain within a garment manufacturing unit. The control can be done in various ways such as using automation in the most efficient manner; following proven Industrial Engineering (IE) practices to make processes smoother and viable; deploying available workforce in multiple operations to make the best use of manpower; and, of course, training them on exact modules which are needed inside a unit. Bangladesh, the world’s second largest apparel manufacturing destination, is effectively working on all these factors to make its manufacturing even stronger. Team Apparel Online Bangladesh recently visited Mahmud Fashion Ltd., Laila Styles Ltd. and Pretty Sweaters based in Dhaka and observed that each of them is implementing something unique in terms of improving productivity and making a strong work system to make themselves stand out. Let’s look at the practices these companies are following...

‘Line Layout is Must’ – MAHMUD FASHION LIMITED

Timely deliveries, building all MJL has eight operations in-house under entirely operational lines compliant conditions, being (at the time of competitive in pricing and a strong interview) with emphasis on quality have always kept 60 machines in Dhaka-based garment manufacturer Mahmud Group at the forefront of each line. The manufacturing. The Group produces unit has already 60,000 denim bottoms per day in its planned to make old factory named Mahmud Jeans Ltd. eight more lines (MJL). That’s a whopping per day operational by output compared to many other jeans manufacturers who claim themselves June ’19 and a Susanth Ranjith Ekanayaka, GM (Maintenance), Mahmud Fashion Ltd. to be big but actually are struggling to total of 48 lines get even 1/10th pieces per day output will be workable compared to what MJL is achieving. till this year end. the factory is exemplary in terms of has already planned to make eight Not just this, in May 2017, the Group technology use and IE practices. more lines operational by June further added one more unit named Currently, MJL has eight operational ’19 and a total of 48 lines will be Mahmud Fashion Ltd. (MFL) to cater lines (at the time of interview) with workable till this year end. Line to increased orders from buyers and 60 machines in each line. The unit balancing is of utmost priority for

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Newly operational production line in MFL Profile of Mahmud Fashion Ltd.

Susanth Ranjith Ekanayaka, GM was scarcity of skilled manpower,” operational unit with its massive (Maintenance), Mahmud Fashion commented Susanth. It’s a fact infrastructure, technology use in Ltd., who, since the beginning, has that attrition rate is high here in production floors and focus on focused immensely to improve line Bangladesh. So by the time a person It is not just operators’ training is achieving what balancing and has even reworked gets through the process, he/she is it plans. In this new unit, around on the line layout to increase gone and someone new comes in and installing 3,500 workers are churning out woven productivity. “Wages have increased, then it takes time for a factory to technology which bottoms, denims and non-denims, overheads have gone up, lead time is train freshers again. The same was will boost the day in and day out in 35 production getting shorter and buyers’ pressure an issue with MFL when it became business level lines out of which 20 lines are fully is already there which are collectively operational. But the maintenance overnight, it’s operational. reducing profit margins. When MFL and production teams together had all about how a According to Laila Styles, it is not just became operational last year, we to tackle this challenge and they did installing technology which will boost designed our lines in a way which can it. In production lines, they identified manufacturer the business level overnight, but it’s get us more productivity using limited critical operations first. Then IE utilises the all about how a manufacturer utilises resources,” explained Susanth. people were told to train manpower in installations to the the installations to the fullest, making a batch of 50 people on all aspects to MFL has a special maintenance team a balance between manpower and make them efficient enough to carry fullest, making a which is taking care of production machines. On one hand, manpower multiple operations. “So, while we balance between lines. The team plans 15 days before remains the most crucial part in plan a layout and an operator quits manpower and changing the layout, and in that Bangladesh garment industry, while the factory, we don’t have to face machines. period of time, it uses the team issues in finalising the layout as we members’ expertise to know the have everything in place, right from kind of product categories that are the strategy that we need to follow to supposed to come in production lines the workers who we are going to use,” and the action that should be taken to averred Susanth. modify a particular line. If the same design is carried on adjacent lines, the maintenance team replicates the ‘Training and same structure. Currently, MFL is running 18 lines in 4-4-3-4-2-1 layout Technology are our which is the best possible layout priority’ for them. “In second phase, we will – LAILA STYLES LTD. set 48 lines in similar pattern,” said Susanth. Laila Styles Ltd. is one of the It’s not that MFL could achieve the prominent names in Bangladesh proper line balancing in order to apparel manufacturing industry increase output quite easily. “A lot of which started operation in September issues were there before we planned 2018 and is yet to become fully line layouts. The major problem operational. However, the partial Bodiuz Zaman, General Manager – Admin, HR & Compliance, Laila Styles Ltd.

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Training centre in Laila Styles Limited Profile of Laila Styles Limited on the other hand, moulding the fresh Focus on the use of latest technology while in regular machine, 7 people available operators into skilled ones is as strong as training in Laila are needed to perform these five is even more challenging task; failing Styles. The company has kept pace operations. Hence, this technology to do so can cost a manufacturer with continuous global transformation Since Laila is not only helps in enormous saving of manpower but also enhances the loss of production datelines.“You as far as technological upgradation manufacturing will always need a technically and excellence is concerned. It productivity. “We are proud of having strong team to make the best use of has installed 650 sewing machines denim bottoms technical excellence in our machine machines; a team here means both (mainly from Juki and Brother) of too, it has department,” concluded Bodiuz. technical supervisors and operators which 450 are SNLS machines and invested in two who ultimately are responsible to rest are special machines such as of the renowned ‘We are among the handle sewing machines. We have that feed-off-the-arm, overlock (Pegasus technologies, first to use exceptional strength and experience which assist and Kansai) and jeans automats knitting technology’ us in such a way that our investment (Vibemac and Jam International). Vibemac – PRETTY SWEATERS does not go in awry,” shared Bodiuz “To get quality production, we use all and Jam Zaman, General Manager – Admin, sort of automation except for auto- International; Pretty Sweaters, the second largest HR & Compliance, Laila Styles Ltd. cutter which is actually not viable for both are from sweater manufacturer in Bangladesh To upskill the workforce, Laila Styles us,” underlined Zaman stating that Italy and are with around 12.7 million pieces maximum time is taken by spreading Ltd. has set up a training centre known for output in 2018, is riding high on operation for which Laila is using technology. It was only in 2013 when within the factory premises which clubbing multiple can accommodate 40 operators auto-spreaders. “Cutting is not that the company came into existence at a time. The unit has not only difficult, so for the time being, we operations on and made all positive headlines installed basic SNLS machines in are not investing in auto-cutters but one automat. due to its inclination towards the the centre but also high-end special rather we are using straight knife technologies which were unheard sewing machines to train operators cutters to solve the purpose,” stated of back then by other Bangladeshi on both.“When we recruit them, we Bodiuz. Currently, the per month sweater manufacturers. “The idea judge their skills. If we find them capacity of Laila’s cutting room is skilled enough, we place them (operational) 3,00,000 pieces. And, directly on floor. If they are not up soon it will be 6,00,000 per month once to the mark, we consider them as the pending lines will be operational fresh and train them in our centre by May this year. where one month training is given Reducing human intervention to them,” explained Bodiuz. The is another need for garment trainers impart technical knowledge manufacturers in order to stay and quality skills to the operators relevant in this cost-competitive as they know what type of skills an era. Since Laila is manufacturing operator would be needing while denim bottoms too, it has invested working on Laila’s production floor. in two of the renowned technologies, This way operators come prepared Vibemac and Jam International; mentally and technically from the both are from Italy and are known training centre. Every operator who for clubbing multiple operations on gets training is further evaluated one automat. JT 882 model of Jam by the production team after one International assists Laila in carrying month before allocating them any five different operations on one production-related work. machine, needing just two operators, Sunil Marasinghe, GM, Pretty Sweaters

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Ergonomical chair for operator near linking machine Profile of Pretty Sweaters behind transforming the production sweaters. Normally, one operator in other manufacturing units who floor of our factory was to use those can do six to eight pieces of sweaters work on normal machines which is a technologies which Bangladesh in a day, while with the induction of massive difference. It’s not that we sweater manufacturing players were Shima Seiki knitting technology, the The factory ‘eliminated’ the manpower but we can not using and we were amongst the factory increased to 200 per head say that we increased the capacity to first ones to use advanced Japanese as one operator can now handle 10 earlier used almost double,” explained Sunil. knitting technology of Shima Seiki and to work on machines simultaneously. In another development, Sunil has Italian linking technology of Complett Notably, the main difficult part is to ‘Make Through kept the ergonomics standard on top to manufacture our products,” claimed handle the labour involved in the System’ where priority for the operators performing Sunil Marasinghe, GM, Pretty assembling of sweaters which is a linking operation. It’s a fact that Sweaters. an operator serious thing to consider. Taking this assembled a linking operators have to move on Sunil further underlined that difficulty as a challenge, Sunil and single piece of both the sides and bend forward to previously major components such his team worked hard to eliminate carry out the operation effectively as panels in sweaters were handled this using line balancing and the sweater at a time but the standard chairs are difficult manually which resulted in low use of technology. The team set up by carrying out to sit on with so much activities to production. “The use of technology dedicated lines with all necessary all the sewing perform for an operator, resulting in has helped us increase our production linking machines and divided processes increased fatigue level and back pain. by 50 per cent over the years,” components in these lines operation- necessary to Sunil and his team have therefore asserted Sunil. The factory earlier wise. The manual operations needed developed C type chairs with rollers used to work on ‘Make Through in these assembling processes assemble a underneath which move according to System’ where an operator assembled are also added in these lines. sweater. Since the movement of the operators. “You a single piece of sweater at a time by Once shaped panels come to these it takes an won’t find this development anywhere carrying out all the sewing processes assembly lines, linking method else. We have to look at the comfort necessary to assemble a sweater. In immense level is used in almost every design of operators as well and imbibing this system, an operator was provided of operator of sweaters to join those panels. technology should not be the only with a bundle of cut-work pieces and However, in some cases, shaped skills and time thing to consider,” boasted Sunil. he/she continued to assemble them panels are joined by sewing process to manufacture based on his or her own method of Not just garment technology, Pretty as well. “22 machines are there in a sweater, work. But the method was not efficient Sweaters is also using tools to collect each line. One machine can reduce when bulk production was there. Since Pretty Sweaters data which help them in decision two to three operators which is a it takes an immense level of operator switched from making. The company has RFIDs great saving for us,” claimed Sunil. skills and time to manufacture a ‘Make Through to rope in a proper system for data sweater, Pretty Sweaters switched Pretty Sweaters is in full support System’ to collection and to eliminate the from ‘Make Through System’ to ‘Line to use expensive but proven chances of playing with production System’ seeing the huge quantity technology because of long-term ‘Line System’ data on shopfloor. Asserting the of orders placed by Japanese and benefits. According to Sunil, linking seeing the huge same, Sunil concludes, “At least 5 European buyers. “My intention was machines of Complett cost almost quantity of per cent production data prepared to go to the line system from the start 10 times higher than normal sewing orders placed manually by most of the garment – one operator, one machine and one machines but they can reduce by Japanese units is not correct. We wanted to operation out of around 20 operations three workstations and eliminate keep a watch on working progress that are there to manufacture a the need to have 6 to 9 operators. and European on the production floor using RFIDs high-end sweater,” said Sunil. Pretty “ROI is also just eight months and buyers. to know where we stand and what all Sweaters has installed 1,500 Shima average sweater production per tasks are left to do. At each and every Seiki knitting machines that auto-knit head in assembly is 40 to 60 per area, we have a data which helps us shaped panels of huge quantities of day as compared to around 20 to 30 in decision making.”

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REPORT: LECTRA VIP FASHION EVENT 2019 ‘WINNING OVER THE NEW FASHION CONSUMER’ TALKS ABOUT DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION OF FASHION INDUSTRY A VIP fashion event themed ‘WINNING OVER THE NEW FASHION CONSUMER’ was organised on 10-11 April 2019 by Lectra in Bordeaux-Cestas (France). The 2-day event marked with over 140 visitors from all across the world which included Lectra’s customers, retail brands’ executives, technology strategists and media. It’s worth telling that Apparel Online (print vertical of Apparel Resources Group) was the only media that was invited from South Asia and south-east Asia to cover the event.

Day 1 witnessed speakers focusing on the rising need of social media To conclude his presentation, on the need of digitalisation of which is influencing the customers’ Peter underlined that the era is processes within apparel industry purchase decision. “About 37 per of ‘Design-Sell-Make’ concept. So cent of consumers search for online apparel brands and manufacturers All through the event, speakers pointed The era is of reviews of a product they are looking need to give up ‘Design-Make-Sell’ out that digital transformation is a ‘Design-Sell- to purchase,” said Peter. strategy if they want to cater to must-to-do task for both retailers and Make’ concept. Peter further explained about why hyper-connected consumers. He also manufacturers in this era of ‘hyper- So apparel the apparel and textile industry suggested the areas where retail connected consumers’. Endorsing the brands and doesn’t need new technology instead brands need to digitally innovate their same, the first day of the event started manufacturers of matured technologies which are operations. “Digital product creation, with a keynote presentation given by need to give up already available in the market but advanced analytics and insights, Peter Jeavons, Managing Director need to be adopted. Some of them smart connected supply chain and (Europe), First Insight. ‘Design-Make- are Artificial Intelligence (AI), Data foundational product technology are Sell’ strategy some areas where retailers should Peter told the audience about why if they want to Analytics Tools and IoT. Peter gave an hyper-connected consumers are example of Alibaba and Amazon and focus to pace up with the changing rapidly increasing and how have they cater to hyper- enlightened the audience that if these trend,” concluded Peter. driven the market with their instant connected e-commerce giants can use AI and Data The second keynote presentation gratification. He also emphasised consumers. Tools, then others should also use it. was given by Craig Crawford,

Mark Antoine (left), Master of Ceremony conducted interview of Céline Choussy, Chief Marketing & Audience played a vital role in the 2-day Lectra VIP Event with their sharp observation on what the speakers said Communications Officer, Lectra

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Founder, CrawfordIT and he asked the attendees to work on a strategy ‘Stop Working, Start Thinking to Create Collaboration’. His focus was primarily on the customers’ needs, and he pointed out to make businesses customer- centric which is only possible by introducing right kind of collaborative IT solutions to the retail businesses. Craig gave some real and proven examples of some retail brands, those that are using PETER JEAVONS CRAIG CRAWFORD MAXIMILIEN ABADIE AI and AR (Augmented Reality) to Managing Director (Europe), Founder, CrawfordIT Chief Strategy Officer, Lectra enhance customers’ experience both First Insight on online channels and in stores. “Digital transformation is must for the retailers. Max Factor is using “Digital product creation, “Digital transformation “Kubix Link incorporates AR, while Tommy Hilfiger is using advanced analytics and is must for the retailers. PLM, DAM and PIM Chatbots and are successfully insights, smart connected Max Factor is using AR, functionalities all together achieving what they plan,” said supply chain and foundational while Tommy Hilfiger is and unlocks greater agility in Craig enthusiastically. product technology are using Chatbots and are the existing platforms such The next in line was the interview with some areas where retailers successfully achieving as ERP, CMS, PCM, WMS Céline Choussy, Chief Marketing should focus.” what they plan.” and e-commerce.” & Communications Officer, Lectra. The interview was conducted by the master of ceremony Mark Antoine. During the 20 minutes long interview, Céline disclosed that hyper-connected consumers are driving Lectra to adopt strategies that work for the work on single version of truth,” Lectra. Kubix Link incorporates betterment of Lectra, its customers as explained Céline. PLM, DAM and PIM functionalities all well as end-consumers. “We are what Kubix Link, a data-driven PLM together and unlocks greater agility we wear, and we wear what we are. solution, demonstration was also in the existing platforms such as ERP, Innovation is in our DNA, so we give given by Maximilien Abadie, CMS, PCM, WMS and e-commerce. those solutions to the industry using Chief Strategy Officer, Lectra “It’s time to rethink over enhancing which designers, pattern makers and Matthieu Griziaux, Business product experience. Kubix Link is all and product development teams Development Director (Fashion), about the way companies collaborate

Mariam Benissi (C), a representative of Lectra's customer Balenciaga, explained MODARIS' role in fabric saving Demonstration of VIRGA cutter

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to give enriching experience to its are able to process more detailed customers,” asserted Matthieu. Lectra markers faster. “Quick Nest can also also asked one of its customers, be used by production teams to treat Tecnica Group, to be a part of this lists of markers automatically in record demo. Tecnica is a leading sportswear time via the cloud,” as observed during manufacturing Group based in Italy. the demonstration. Tecnica Group brands include Tecnica, The day was concluded with the voice Nordica, Moon Boot, Rollerblade, of Lectra customer, Balenciaga. The Lowa and Blizzard Sport. Another company’s representative, Mariam company which took part in this demo Benissi, explained how Lectra’s was Pomellato, an Italian luxury Modaris has helped Balenciaga to fashion jewellery brand. Both the save enormous fabric cost using Quick Lectra customers described how they Estimate. have used Kubix Link to overcome Once the event got over, Lectra took challenges in terms of data collection all its guests to the countryside for a and then take decision based on gala dinner at a beautiful place called that data. Château Smith Haut Lafitte. The 4 The last session of the day was based hours of this outing was filled with fun Attendees during presentation of 'Fashion On Demand' solution on Modaris, a 3D tool offered by Lectra. activities and the guests came to know Session was themed ‘CAD ENHANCED why Bordeaux is known as ‘Wine City’. BY THE POWER OF THE CLOUD’. Phillippine Saint-Pere, CEO and Day 2 was filled with demos, Founder, Eponymous Brand, gave QA sessions and factory visit presentation on what’s her take on 3D. She discussed all the pros and cons of The day 2 activities can be summarised the available 3D tools for the designers by simply stating that Industry 4.0 and and explained how Modaris stands out. Mass Customisation are something Phillippine’s presentation was followed Lectra is enormously focusing on. by Lectra’s demo on ‘20 MINUTES Throughout the day 4.0 concept FROM PINTEREST TO PRODUCTION was seen in some way or other. Day READY’ where a team of Lectra gave 2 of the event started with a guest live demonstration on the features of presentation given by Craig Crawford Modaris and Diamino; Quick Estimates who took his discussion on ‘MASS and Quick Nest. The demo talked about PERSONALISATION’ to the next what a customer wants in this era of level from where he concluded it on personalisation and how a designer day 1. He explained the journey of Lectra VIP Event guests entering Château Smith Haut Lafitte for gala dinner can help customers in providing a the luxury fashion brand Burberry product of their choice using Modaris in personalisation. While most of the which suggests the best possible outfit brands are now going with the trend of in lowest cost possible. customisation and Made to Measure, Quick Estimate allows product Burberry opted for it back in 2010 in its development teams to calculate iconic trench coat which was entirely fabric requirements instantly from a design based on MTM. “Burberry their Modaris® – Lectra’s 2D/3D further strengthened this concept patternmaking and grading solution using the optimal use of social media – working environment with direct as well as apps such as WeChat (in access to the cloud applications. 2014) which gave the brand a massive Pattern developers have the flexibility success in China and other big fashion to make pattern adjustments more retail markets such as Hong Kong,” quickly to optimise costs, while said Craig. He further added that the protecting the brand’s quality and pace of technology adoption has never assuring speed-to-market. On the other been faster than in last two years. hand, Quick Nest can be accessed “Amazon filed for 7 technology through Diamino®, Lectra’s marker- patents in January 2018 which An operator engrossed in assembling process at Lectra's factory site making solution. During the production include AR and visual recognition development stages, Quick Nest users mirror, supply chain UV fluorescent

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inks, 3D on-demand manufacturing, production processes and manage airborne fulfilment centre serviced by complex individual demands from drones, fabric storage totes for use in custom order to cut piece. “Thanks manufacturing, tech to recognise hand to the supply-chain flexibility that poses as computer interface and voice companies gain with this innovative controlled light switches,” elaborated Lectra solution, they are able to Craig. He, however, emphasised on the expand their product range and offer fact that designers are still not working more variety, be it womenswear, in collaboration with pattern makers menswear or childrenswear, and and until this situation changes, the appeal to a broader audience and trend of customisation, MTM can’t see jump on trends without interrupting the worldwide growth. their existing production processes,” This was followed by an interactive explained Frédéric. discussion by two of Lectra team The ‘Fashion On Demand’ presentation members: Frédéric Gaillard, was followed by voice of customers Product Marketing VP, Cutting session in which master of ceremony Room Offer; and Christine Mark Antoine took a small interview Dandieu Sales Director, Fashion, of representatives of Lectra’s on ‘LECTRA STRATEGY FOR customers Groupe Mark and Balsan FASHION & APPAREL: THE DIGITAL (uniform manufacturers). Both the TRANSFORMATION’. The crux of the representatives underlined that session was that there is need in the Lectra’s solutions have helped in fashion industry for collaboration, achieving greater productivity. They automation and simplification. The all stated that less consumables are being new ‘Fashion On Demand’ system of used, also there is enormous cut down OMRON robot used by Lectra in its factory for material movement Lectra is a solution which caters to this in manpower, besides reduction in need. According to Lectra, the digital fabric cost which is another significant revolution has prompted consumers benefit they are getting out of Lectra to demand personalised products solutions. and experiences nowadays. This is The factory is exemplary in the sense Frédéric again came to the stage for an advantageous business model for that it uses as less manpower as it one-on-one interactive session with fashion companies, as it allows them to can. For spare part and inventory Mark Antoine where he explained accurately match supply with demand, handling, Lectra is using Omron about the packages offered in ‘Fashion and solve a host of problems that ‘Fashion On robots which have 4-5 trays in it and On Demand’ solution and also regular business models usually face. Demand’ is all trays carry some small metal responded on each and every question By simply knowing ahead of time what disruptive parts (rivets, nuts, bolts, spanners, asked by the audience. and how much their consumers want, offer which etc.) which are further used to companies can produce in precise This QA session was followed by gives fashion assemble machines. Omron robots quantities and avoid overstocking and the demo of Lectra’s VIRGA cutter. companies a 360° are studded with 2 sensors which markdowns. In addition, as consumers Interestingly, this cutter does not use view of the entire can sense a human’s movement any paper or flimsy material to hold pay upfront for their orders it improves personalisation until 1.5 metre near the robot’s cash flow for businesses. Fashion the fabric layer while cutting operation zone and once sensed the robots companies can use personalisation as rather it creates vacuum on the process, automatically get stopped. Lectra a way to outshine their competitors cutter’s bed due to which fabric layer providing them has divided its factory into different and earn consumer loyalty, by offering gets adhered to bed. By this technology, with the visibility segments and each segment takes one-of-a-kind products that make VIRGA saves cost of the paper and to streamline care of a particular industry, for their customers feel exclusive. “This plastic materials which are commonly multiple example the machines for airbags solution combines 3 packages within used during cutting process by apparel production are manufactured and assembled it including Made to Order, Made to manufacturers. processes and in a different zone in factory while Customise and Made to Measure,” said After demo, a factory tour was manage complex machines dedicated for garments are Frédéric. organised by Lectra in two different being taken care in different area in individual the same premises. ‘Fashion On Demand’ is disruptive groups. During the visit, the visitors demands from offer which gives fashion companies a closely observed manufacturing After factory visit, the 2-day event 360° view of the entire personalisation processes, assembly processes, custom order to came to an end and Lectra bid adieu process, providing them with the packaging and dispatch processes of cut piece. to all its guests and customers with a visibility to streamline multiple different machines offered by Lectra. small token of thanks.

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 31 RESOURCE CENTRE

Dekko Accessories along with Agami geared up for the future with complete solutions and flexible capacities

s the end consumer becomes more that are a major USP of the company. demanding and difficult to please, The future areas of growth under Athe textile value chain is increasingly consideration are hanger plating, challenged to constantly innovate to zipper, dyeing and lingerie accessories. remain in business. While retailers “The fact that we have everything struggle to get the mix of product under one roof and are willing to invest offerings right, manufacturers optimise further adds to our strength,” says systems to remain competitive and Abdur Rouf. No wonder the company support the industry that provides has names like H&M, OVS, M&S, VF the products and services to produce Asia, Tom Tailor, PVH, Tesco and and get the products to the market Chicco, as its global clients to name apart from looking at new ways to stay a few. relevant. In this complex matrix, there Run by a set of professionals, led are companies like the Dekko Group by the very dynamic and forward that has in its fold Dekko Accessories thinking Abdur Rouf, the team not only and Agami Accessories, which together understands the products, but also the are a complete package for garment market demands, because of which this manufacturers looking for single point “The fact that Dekko has everything under well managed and organised company solution to all trims and accessory is geared up for sustainable growth. needs. In conversation with Team one roof and is willing “Today, the lead times have reduced Apparel Online, Mohammad Abdur to invest further, adds to drastically and every manufacturer is Rouf, Executive Director of the our strength.” looking to source from local companies Accessories Division at Dekko shares to save time, but that is only possible the differentiators that make Dekko a – Mohammad Abdur Rouf, if the quality parameters are of global market leader in accessories and trims. Executive Director of the standard,” reasons Abdur Rouf. Accessories Division at Dekko Considered a pioneer in plastic and Perhaps this is one of the biggest metal buttons in Bangladesh, Dekko reasons that quality is at the core of Group is much more than just buttons. everything that the company is doing. Their product categories include The confidence that the Dekko team woven and printed labels, polybags, has in its systems built to ensure paper packaging, woven belts and quality is evident from the company’s waistbands, PVC and board items, factory, which not only has the best covering a very wide range of products infrastructure including technology and

Latest technologies support manufacturing Trained workers are a big strength of the company

32 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com RESOURCE CENTRE

testing lab, but also trained manpower relaxed but purposeful body language and compliant facilities. “We are proud of the workers in the factory, who go of the quality that we deliver, and about their job with resolution. “We hence our prices, though competitive, are very sensitive towards the needs are not cheap,” adds Abdur Rouf. of the workers and they can share The latest European technology is their problems with us, without any being used in specialised processes fear. We encourage their children to for detailing and even in printing, the seek education for which we run a free company has acquired the Mellow100 schooling project and also enhance club certification which indicates the their talents. A painting competition precision in printing quality. held recently saw the best paintings Quality is not only maintained in converted into a calendar and the the manufacturing process but children who got selected for their also starts from the selection of the talent are being nurtured further which raw material and attitude of over is a great source of motivation for 1,600 workers in the factory. “While them,” avers Abdur Rouf. multinational companies can get On the sustainability front, the advantage of cheaper raw materials company is driving initiatives in all and bigger brand value, I can vouch directions, from saving resources that the quality, if not better, will be to using less harmful chemicals, to at par with them,” states Abdur Rouf. reducing processes to innovating in the This confidence that Dekko has in recycling and reuse of waste materials. its products has resulted in major “Not only do we use sustainable raw expansion over the last two years, materials wherever possible, but all and while the process of expansion processes are also sustainable and has been completed in the plastic workers are educated to understand and label segment under the banner the importance of the environment Inkjet machine for woven labels of Dekko Accessories, expansion is and saving of resources,” shares still underway at Agami which is Abdur Rouf. The company, besides exclusively for metal products. At other CSR activities, also encourages Abdur Rouf proudly. He is also satisfied Dekko, the capacity has been enhanced its employees to plant more trees for by the fact that the company could by 30 per cent, while the capacity at building a sustainable environment. clock on-time delivery of 98.7 per cent, Agami, is going to be doubled from next Another focus area for the company which is no small feat in an industry year from the current capacity of 10,000 is its R&D, which supports the growth where time is money. “With fast fashion gross per day. objective of the company by providing becoming a norm, the fact that we have Sharply keeping a hawk’s eye on solutions for product and process a complete range of products, flexibility quality, the company is equally innovation, cost minimisation and in minimum quantities and responsive committed to sustainability and quality improvement. “Continuous services to keep pace with the industry, worker welfare. “Only an engaged and efforts in R&D and innovation help is definitely a differentiator. Not many happy worker will give productivity to anticipate and meet the market companies in Bangladesh can offer the that enhances the bottom line,” needs. In 2018, we had 578 new same, which makes us very positive says Abdur Rouf. The efforts in this developments of which 67 (11.59 per about the future,” concludes the direction are visible through the cent) were selected by customers,” says Executive Director with conviction.

R&D and testing is a continuous process Quality is maintained through the use of best technologies

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Hohenstein supporting Bangladesh to reap the fruits of the sustainable movement with value

he fast-evolving manufacturing have made. In conversation with and the focus is today on technical set-up in Bangladesh is actively Team Apparel Online, Dr. Md. textiles and sustainability solutions, takingT the support of experts to Kamruzzaman (Kamrul), Managing the growth engines of tomorrow. upgrade and add value to their Director, Hohenstein Operations With around 1,200 OEKO-TEX® business. Entrepreneurs are in Bangladesh, underlines the edge certified companies in Bangladesh, not shying away from making that the company has over other TIC Hohenstein is now geared to partner investments and are taking active companies, being a research institute with the major sustainability steps for improved efficiencies and a forward-thinking entity. movement in the country with and working environment. In this Though Hohenstein has been present Sustainable Textile Production proactive situation, Hohenstein in Bangladesh for a long time (STeP®) by OEKO-TEX®, which Institute, Bangladesh, has presented having introduced the OEKO-TEX® is a certification system for to the industry STeP by OEKO- certification in 2005, it is only last manufacturers from the textile chain TEX®, which can give the industry year that the company developed who want to communicate their value for the numerous sustainable a new laboratory that consists of achievements regarding sustainable investments that the players high-quality analysis equipment for manufacturing processes to the all textile testing needs. “Testing public in a transparent, credible and standards and requirements are clear manner. “One of the biggest changing very frequently and it challenges today for manufacturers is important to have the latest in Bangladesh is to reap the benefits equipment to be prepared for the from going green, because not new regulations,” says Dr. Kamrul. many retailers are willing to pay The new fully loaded lab is offering for the efforts on the products various advanced testing services produced, though they appreciate the and result analysis such as testing initiatives,” argues Dr. Kamrul. for harmful substances, performance- Perhaps this is one major reason that based tests, quality control tests, on- frustration is setting in with regard site sampling and analysis services to Green initiatives and exporters for wastewater and sludge with all are asking tough questions to their relevant regulations such as ZDHC, buyers. However, with STeP® and its Detox to Zero by OEKO-TEX® and six modules, companies can convey STeP by OEKO-TEX®. their sustainable achievements and What really sets the company apart brands and retailers can tag the from its competitors is its focus product as ‘Made in Green®’, which is on R&D that not only helps the lab recognised by customers; hence it will to be prepared for the challenges help the companies fetch better prices. of the future, but also to create “We cannot blame the end consumers new standards to address new for not appreciating Green initiatives, challenges. “Our legacy is rooted because they don’t know whether the in research, and even till today, the product has been made in a green labs around the world are off-shoots environment, but once the tag is of Hohenstein Institute, which is the attached which also has a QR code for master brain behind our services,” traceability, the value of the product avers Dr. Kamrul. And he is not in the eyes of the end consumer exaggerating as the company has a increases, which by default adds a few Dr. Md. Kamruzzaman (Kamrul), Managing Director, Hohenstein Operations reputation of being a pathbreaker cents more,” reasons Dr. Kamrul.

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The STeP® certification is possible for production facilities of all processing stages from fibre “Taking the leadership production, spinning mills, weaving mills, knitting mills to finishing facilities and manufacturers of role in the TIC industry readymade textile items. The methodology is very clearly defined, seriously, we have to wherein through modular analysis of all relevant company areas such as management of chemicals, lead the way” environmental performance, – Abdur Rashid, Country Manager, SGS Bangladesh environmental management, occupational health and safety, social responsibility and quality About five months ago, SGS Bangladesh Limited announced, for the first time in management, the STeP® certification its long history of presence in the country, a local talent as the Head of Operations allows a comprehensive and reliable – officially taking over as the , having serviced analysis of the extent of sustainable Abdur Rashid Country Manager management provided by a in SGS for last 10 years, and earlier being responsible for the consumer and production facility. retail segment of the company. Controlled by expats till now, it is a big privilege Working in partnership with the and challenge for Rashid to not only take on a leadership role, but also add new companies, Hohenstein with its dimensions to the operations in Bangladesh with his understanding of local issues STeP® modules, can support change and concerns. In a candid interview, he talks about his new role, the challenges in factories and workplaces by and the opportunities ahead. saving resources, reducing cost, increasing efficiencies and helping companies achieve sustainable goals in line with global demands. Giving a comprehensive understanding of AO: As a local boy, what are the the STeP® certification, Dr. Kamrul advantages as also the major shared that the unique process challenges that you see? encompasses three different levels describing the extent to which the Rashid: Our country’s major revenue company has achieved sustainable comes from the apparel industry production and working conditions: and so all of us have friends in Level 1 – Entry level; Level 2 – the industry from whom we have Good implementation with further understanding of ground realities, optimisation potential; and Level which expat leadership do not have. 3 – Exemplary implementation in the To be honest, being a local, I know sense of a best practice example. the industry, the manufacturing The growing popularity of STeP® community and all the positives certification is obvious from the fact and negatives. Also, I am easily that the country already has over 25 accessible to the industry and to such certifications and many more my staff, so they can express their are under process. expectations, difficulties or desires whenever they want. This is a “The apparel business in Bangladesh good starting point, but then the is not only growing, but growing expectations are high. sustainably and we at Hohenstein are ready with all the tools to support Since expats were not much this growth and achieve targets accessible, they had not faced that will keep this country as the the challenges that I do. Earlier preferred manufacturing destination if there were any mistakes, then of global brands and retailers headquarters used to think that it for many more years,” signs off was due to market dynamics, but if we Dr. Kamrul with confidence. will fail now, then there is a chance Abdur Rashid, Country Manager, SGS Bangladesh

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that they may put the responsibility There are many positives that one We are now becoming more on the local person. This is the can find in Bangladesh, like our customer-focused, so surely, we are internal side of the story. The expertise, capacities and capabilities changing with times. We have also external side is that the expectations There are many in the apparel industry, besides the started an SGS academy, where from the industry have increased entrepreneurial skills of the people we provide training sessions for manifold. Being a local, people believe positives that here, encourages global brands upcoming industry-related topics, that empowerment and authority is one can find in to invest in the business. Some and also hold workshops. Every on me. So, the additional pressure is Bangladesh, like of the top green factories of the week, we are gathering 50-60 people on me to perform and create the right our expertise, world are from Bangladesh. These from different factories to share balance to satisfy all and justify my capacities and are the things that many people our technical knowledge, which position as head. capabilities in the don’t know. This is an opportunity, are provided free of cost. Taking apparel industry, which is currently challenging but the leadership role seriously, SGS AO: As an industry, Bangladesh besides the an opportunity which we need to has to lead the way and is hoping to inspire others. has changed in the past five entrepreneurial cash in on properly. This is even years; what are the positives that more important now, as with the you see in Bangladesh today? skills of the wage hike, sooner it won’t be AO: How are you using IT- people here, the cheapest country. So all the enabled tools to support your Rashid: If we look at Bangladesh encourages global stakeholders need to put their heads vast businesses that are helping 10 years before, we have had many brands to invest together for a viable and sustainable you negative things. But, ironically, after in the business. roadmap to growth. to be more at the doorsteps? the unfortunate Rana Plaza incident, many good things happened. After Rashid: Being a leader, we are AO: With so much competition in the incident, the buyers understood not just thinking, but acting on Some of the top the TIC industry, what is your USP that Bangladesh is an attractive the same. IT is one of the ways green factories that will keep you relevant today manufacturing destination and even or tools that is making every as it did many years ago? those which were trying to penetrate of the world are industry efficient and making life into other countries, came back. from Bangladesh. Rashid: Earlier, TIC companies much more comfortable. Going on, They realised that this is the place These are the used to sit back, waiting for people inspection will become a manual they need to stay on and fix, giving things that many to come with their samples. That job. We have done a fusion, making birth to the Accord and Alliance. people don’t was the culture, but now the USP most of the things automated. For There was a joint understanding by know. This is is to put solutions at the door steps inspection, we have created OLB the Government, industry owners an opportunity, of the customers. We have labs in (Online Booking). The customers and the buyers. Everyone thought in which is currently Dhaka and Chittagong, and we are from anywhere can visit our website a positive way with positive efforts, the first to introduce free pickup and can book an inspection, asking investments and mindset, which challenging but for the same within three days an opportunity samples from the customer’s factory gave a good shape to the industry, or premises. We have also expanded from a particular factory on any but unfortunately this has not been which we need all our services for the customers. particular item and quantity, along promoted or communicated to the to cash in on Previously, we only had the textile with the specifications. He/she can rest of the world properly. properly. lab, but now we have footwear lab upload all his requirements and The people who come here regularly with all the solutions in Dhaka. We immediately our back office will act are aware of this, and those who have formally started a calibration on this. This is one of our developed don’t, still have that old perception laboratory. This facility is for tools. And after inspection, we will of the country 5 years or 10 years factories that can’t calibrate, we upload our results on our portal. before. After witnessing the present give them services starting from So, the customers sitting in US or changes, few of my seniors, who compliance, testing for all the Europe can track and analyse the came here after 10 years, said that products needed such as textile, report whenever needed. This is the Bangladesh should be promoted now. footwear. We also provide help inspection side. For this, we have assigned on R&D in maintaining the internal lab On the testing side, we are going to team from Hong Kong to make some equipment. If the customer has its implement a new version of LIMS presentations, provide articles, and own lab and doesn’t need commercial (Laboratory Information Management to be able to give a clear picture, test from a third party like us, then System). SGS Global is going to we have asked them to stay in the we consult those factories and give implement this at our Dhaka lab country for sometime to find the true, them the SGS certification for the lab. which has been selected as the trial real Bangladesh. They admitted This helps the factory, as it proves lab. After successful implementation that the internet doesn’t give a clear that it has the capability of testing here, other countries will follow the picture, and out of 10, 8 things show for certain domains as they have the system. This is a matter of pride negative aspects of the country. equipment. for us!

36 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com RESOURCE CENTRE

Texprocess: EFKA to display cutting edge solution

EFKA will showcase its provides better energy efficiency and workflow of the sewing factories. It predictive maintenance. This further technological solutions during the the special motion control assists creates a dashboard that displays increases the work ratio, optimises four-day international trade fair the machine with high reliability due all the data for better control by the performance efficiency and Texprocess from 14th-17th May 2019 to better performance. the sewing operators, technicians, finally lowers production costs at Frankfurt, Germany. Also on display will be the supervisors and managers running for the sewing operation. Because The main highlight of its offerings prototype of the new control on tablets and/or desktop. of full access to all settings and will be its range of Retrofit generation which will revolutionise This enables the factories to all activities of the machine, controllers, AB6xxx that provide the standard for drive technology have access to the most up-to- SewingManager 4.0 gives the best great versatility to elevate sewing on a sewing machine. The date information combined with chance to ‘Think BIG, Start Small machines of different classes to a SewingManager 4.0 that can be meaningful statistics enabling and Learn Fast’. ‘The Open Source new level. The company offers a used with any sewing machine, can an innovative, cost-efficient and Concept’ allows the integration of wide variety of motors in all common easily upgrade the old version of sustainable approach to production many different sewing machine performance classes of the sewing sewing machines to a better one. planning and execution. Moreover, brands and different third-party industry and its controls are able to These controllers help to digitise SewingManager 4.0 helps in software. The network structure, support basic to full function sewing and connect all sewing machines to creating a full transparency of communication modules and tablets machines. Even machines with manage the production better. the production process therefore can be flexibly selected to meet a integrated motors can be adapted to The technology easily connects, assisting the factories with wide range of requirements. All the AB6xxx controls. supports and controls all the sewing improved production output, better existing EFKA controls of the last 10 These controllers are equipped with production processes for better quality control besides providing a years can be easily integrated into EFKA’s Fail Safe technology that managing the daily business and professional maintenance tool for this system.

Customize the system 3 YEARS WARRANTY to your needs FOR ALL AB6XX

LIFETIME SETSWARRANTY ON ALL PLASTIC PARTS

DIGITIZE & CONNECT YOUR FACTORY OPTIMIZE PERFORMANCE

REDUCE INCREASE COSTS SUSTAINABILITY

THE ONE-STOP-SHOP Find us at the texprocess Compatible with most sewing machine manufacturers Hall 5.1, B71 www.efka.net [email protected]

“THINK BIG, START SMALL AND LEARN FAST”!

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THE LATEST NEWS HAVE YOUR SAY For the latest news on apparel Write to Apparel Resources, B-32, and textile, make sure that you visit South Extension-1, New Delhi (110049), India or email: https://apparelresources.com/top-news/ [email protected]

SHIMA SEIKI DISCUSSES TOTAL SOLUTIONS FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRY AT ASW ’19… INDUSTRY SHOWS INTEREST

hough Shima Seiki as a company needs no introduction, having alreadyT built an enviable reputation for its flat knit technology that is widely used the world over to produce fashion knitwear, the changing dynamics of business, particularly in Asia, have presented new opportunities to reinvent what the company stands for. At the recently concluded Apparel Sourcing Week 2019, the focus of the company was on ‘total solutions in the supply chain’ rather than knitting machines for suppliers, which was highly appreciated by the visitors and exhibitors alike. Indeed, from being leaders in flat knit machines with incredible design options to becoming a total fashion solution provider, Shima Seiki has come a long way. Today, the company has a range of dynamic technology to address many of the pain points in fashion retail from fresh design possibilities to faster lead times to virtual sampling to mass customisation. All these challenges find solutions with technologies from Japan’s leading manufacturer of computerised knitting machines. In fact, for an industry that has always perceived Shima Seiki as a machine manufacturer, it was a pleasant surprise to see the many dimensions of its offerings. The focus area for the company was on WHOLEGARMENT technology, its unique concept of mass customisation and on innovation in supply chain management/processes with its All-in-One 3D design system, which offers complete solutions

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for the apparel supply chain generally we find that buyers from planning to production and drive the market for new solutions, sales support. in case of our 3D design system, “While generally, buyers However, the offerings of the the push for greater integration drive the market for new company do not end here and between the supplier and solutions, in case of our include a line-up of a full range the buyer is coming from 3D design system, the push suppliers who are already using for greater integration of knitting machines, cutting between the supplier machines and inkjet printing the solutions for in-house and the buyer is coming machines, all with high-user productivity and to cut down from suppliers who confidence based on years of on wastages,” shared Tadanori are already using the experience and know-how. Ueno, Manager (Joint Sales solutions for in-house Division), South Asia Unit, “We have a solution to suggest productivity and to cut Shima Seiki. Adding to his down on wastages.” to the fashion industry in smart thoughts, Yasuyo Shimamoto and sustainable way throughout – Tadanori Ueno, Manager the whole process, from planning said, “What really makes our (Joint Sales Division), South Asia technology stand out amidst this Unit, Shima Seiki stage, designing, programming, production to even to sales competition is the fact that not promotion as well, with virtual only are we the best integrated sampling and WHOLEGARMENT, digital connect with suppliers, Knit PLM, and our web media, but also have the most realistic STAF for trend forecasting. Those detailing during the design and Total Fashion System will help to virtual sampling process, wherein reduce wastage in every stage and even the minute hair on the yarn “Today, lead time is can be seen, giving a true ‘live’ very critical and every also to build smart supply chain,” manufacturer and retailer said Yuri Tomita, Asst. Manager, experience to the retailers when is searching for ways to Joint Sales Division, South zeroing in on a sample.” For reduce the time taken Asia Unit. suppliers and buyers who may be across the supply chain in two different continents, the Understanding that only talking to from conceptualisation time, energy and resources saved the suppliers to buy machines is not to sampling and approval in the process are noteworthy. process and of course the way forward, all presentations production.” by Shima Seiki were geared up to Shima Seiki is changing the – Yasuyo Shimamoto, address both the manufacturers way business, systems and Manager, Total Design Center, and retailers. “Today, lead processes are looked at and what Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. time is very critical and every is supporting this movement manufacturer and retailer is is the evolving mindset of searching for ways to reduce users of technology. “Earlier the time taken across the supply people and companies were chain from conceptualisation to comparing invoices and looking sampling and approval process and at price points when deciding of course production. Shima Seiki, on which technology/solution to with its sustainable solutions, is invest in. However now slowly a perfect match to address all but surely, the players are these concerns and more,” said studying the whole picture and Yasuyo Shimamoto, Manager, performance of the machine/ Total Design Center, Shima Seiki technology over a period of time, Mfg., Ltd. There is an underlining changing the way technology need for every player in the supply is being bought,” said Tadanori chain to look for solutions that will Ueno. In case of a slight reduce few days from the fashion difference in price versus a huge cycle, and solutions from Shima advantage in performance, the Seiki can be of great help. choice goes to the best performing The two dedicated sessions of technology, which speaks highly Shima Seiki at ASW were well of the changing dynamics of attended and many companies were the fashion industry, where fast keen to understand the options that turnaround times with maximum Yuri Tomita (L), Asst. Manager, Joint Sales Division, South Asia Unit Shima Seiki had to offer. “While savings is the mantra for success.

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ACCORD’S EXIT AND PROBABLE SOURCING SHIFT

Probability of the buyers’ body exiting Bangladesh sooner or later getting strong; brands/retailers are reportedly weighing other sourcing options

ccord, at best, seems set to apparently far from being prepared process and standards, has reportedly go following the Bangladesh in taking over from Accord the sowed seeds of doubts amongst ASupreme Court order to leave the remediation work. brands and retailers, who are country, on the pretext that the According to it, Bangladesh “shows apparently weighing other options home-grown national regulatory body a shocking level of unreadiness” as far as their sourcing strategy is Remediation Coordination Cell is concerned. with around 745 factories under the capable of taking over its work. Government’s inspection programme Norwegian company Kid Interiør has Bangladesh Accord on Fire and “yet to eliminate high risk safety reportedly reiterated that it is Building Safety, in response has hazards.” “committed to safe working conditions appealed the decision, which as per in Bangladesh and Accord is one of What’s more, the report further experts is its last resort to ensure if the most important measures to make claimed that Bangladesh has failed it can stay put for some more time sure this happens in a fair and cost- to shut down factories that were before calling it a day! And as it would effective way,” while German retailer deemed dangerous. “But today half have been, the court proceedings are KiK on its part reportedly maintained, of these same facilities operate again yet to show any signs of conclusion “The considerations of the under the Government’s inspection with dates of hearing getting deferred Government of Bangladesh to send the programme. There is no indication time and again. Nonetheless, the Bangladesh Accord out of the country in the Government’s own records tug-of-war between Bangladesh and disappoint us very much. The work that any safety improvements have the retailers’ body reaching a climax, of the Accord has been immensely counter allegations of Bangladesh’s been made to these factories,” the successful and the progress should lack of preparedness to take over report claimed, adding, “Currently, not lose speed.” the unfinished work of Accord is international stakeholders across Apart from Kid Interiør and KiK, flying thick and fast amidst fears that the board agree that Bangladesh’s several other big names including Accord deciding to wind up operations national inspection agencies do not the likes of Esprit, H&M, Adidas and in Bangladesh will come with the yet meet the expected standard when Inditex have also reportedly come out threat of a sourcing shift! it comes to transparency, monitoring in support of Accord’s continuance, or enforcement.” As per a report published by the Clean indicating in no uncertain terms Clothes Campaign, the International However, the lack of clarity as to that with Accord moving out of Labor Rights Forum, the Maquila whether Bangladesh can successfully Bangladesh, brands and retailers Solidarity Network and the Worker handle the transition without would rather be looking at other Rights Consortium, Bangladesh is compromising on the remediation viable options for the future. It may be mentioned here that the Bangladesh Accord is a legally binding pact signed by 200 fashion companies following the infamous Rana Plaza building collapse, which claimed lives of 1,100 garment workers. With little signs of court proceedings ending anytime soon, manufacturers Apparel Online spoke to underlined that considering the existing scenario, they are hopeful of its continuation for a year, if not more. So for the time being, they could heave a sigh of relief, it seems.

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ALLEGED MISUSE OF BONDED WAREHOUSE FACILITY AND ITS IMPACTS Besides loss to national exchequer, such malpractices are posing a huge challenge to the textile mills of the country

ntroduced with noble intentions to help export-oriented industries Imaintain a competitive edge, bonded warehouse facility is apparently As per reports, 90 turning into a big headache for the per cent woven Government and the textile sector items, 45 per cent alike. The alleged misuse of this garment accessories facility is reportedly leading not only and 35 per cent to loss in revenue earning but also knit items are is posing a serious challenge to the imported under very existence of the textile mills of the bond system the country. for the apparel Under the bonded warehouse system, sector. However, export-oriented industries can import some unscrupulous duty-free fabrics. Licences are given entities with vested to import raw materials without any interests are duty charges against a commitment allegedly misusing to export the finished products, which this facility to sell makes exports more competitive. duty-free imported into the country and misuse of bonded others go unreported, feel many in the It helps export-oriented industries, goods in the local warehouse are taking place in a big industry. Moreover, licence holders especially garment exporters, reduce market, instead way.” sometimes purportedly use fake lead time and keep prices competitive. of using them for If that was not all, loss to exchequer addresses to escape the monitoring As per reports, 90 per cent woven export purpose, to in the form of taxes and duties is mechanism, while some deliberately items, 45 per cent garment accessories earn easy money. also quite substantial. As per a neglect maintaining records to and 35 per cent knit items are imported media report published in March this hoodwink the authorities. under the bond system for the apparel year which cited some high-ranking This has now motivated the NBR sector. However, some unscrupulous officials of the National Board of to introduce a system to prevent entities with vested interests are Revenue (NBR), in one-and-a-half the open market sale of items allegedly misusing this facility to sell months alone, 40 companies were imported under bond facilities. The duty-free imported goods in the local reportedly found flouting norms of the revenue collection authority’s ‘Bond market, instead of using them for facility thereby depriving the state of Automation’ initiative is part of its export purpose, to earn easy money. an estimated Taka 30 crore (in duty plan to stop the illegal practice that If the country’s textile manufacturers and taxes). is causing the national exchequer are to be believed, they are losing In another instance late last year, a huge loss. However, many in the around US $ 6 billion annually in the Chittagong-based customs officials industry are bemused as to the domestic market due to misuse of reportedly discovered abuse of duty- unwarranted delay in automating bonded warehouse facility along with free facility under bonded-warehouse the whole process. “We have long smuggling of yarn and fabrics into the scheme after auditing the documents been requesting NBR to introduce country. “The size of domestic market of some 136 import consignments software to prevent misuse of bonded of fabrics is 7 to 8 billion metres worth belonging to one particular garment warehouse facility but NBR officials US $ 11 to US $ 12 billion. Of this, exporter. The consignments of RMG somehow are unwilling to automate local producers meet only 3 to 4 billion fabrics came through the Chittagong the system,” alleged President of metres worth nearly US $ 6 billion and Custom House (CCH) in 2018. The Bangladesh Chamber of Industries the rest is met by smuggled fabrics Customs Valuation and Internal Audit Anwar-Ul Alam Chowdhury and bonded warehouse fabrics,” (CVIA) Commissionarate during Parvez, who reportedly claimed that maintained Mohammad Ali Khokon, physical verification reportedly found Bangladesh’s primary textile sector President, Bangladesh Textile that the relevant garment company was losing its competitiveness due to Mills Association (BTMA) speaking had sold the fabric imported duty-free misuse of bonded warehouse facility to media, adding, “Market situation to the local traders. If this particular along with the factor of increased cost suggests that smuggling of fabrics case has hit the headlines, scores of of doing business.

44 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com BANGLADESH CANVAS

PM’S RENEWED FOCUS ON RMG SECTOR Considering that apparel sector is the mainstay of Bangladesh’s economy, Prime Minister, Sheikh Hasina undertakes numerous steps to keep the growth going

t’s not without a reason that view of the fact that the official industrialists and entrepreneurs, data of exports to India, which Iespecially those in the business is about US $ 300 million, does of garment manufacturing, are all not reflect the true volume of praise for Prime Minister Sheikh business that is happening in this Hasina. It is under her strong segment, as a lot of garments do leadership and her pro-industry not cross the border through a policies that the RMG sector of the proper channel. This business country has flourished and developed can be channelised properly and into what it is today. brought into the mainstream,” Coming back to power with convincing explained Munshi on India as an majority in the last general election, export destination. the first thing Hasina did was to hand With non-traditional markets over the baton of the all-important coming up strongly, Bangladesh commerce portfolio to someone who is Government has also increased not only an industrialist but a garment incentive for RMG export to 4 per manufacturer and ex-BGMEA chief, to cent from earlier 3 per cent, to give a fresh impetus to the industry, motivate garment makers to go for which is raring to touch new heights. The most important perhaps is the the new destinations. renewed thrust towards economic “I am humbled by the confidence However, it is not only in the market diplomacy to widen Bangladesh’s that our honourable Prime Minister front that Hasina is concentrating. reach in the global arena. As part of has shown in me by giving me “We have already Her approach percolates to the this unique approach, Bangladesh responsibility of such an important held detailed grassroots to ensure that the missions abroad have reportedly portfolio. Coming from a business discussions workforce, which is at the core of been asked to scout for new markets. background my approach is to touch with officials the industry, is well-looked-after. upon issues that impact business…,” of Bangladesh “We have already held detailed Describing various welfare-oriented maintained Commerce Minister missions calling discussions with officials of steps for the garment workers, the Tipu Munshi speaking exclusively them in Dhaka and Bangladesh missions calling them in Prime Minister underlined that to Apparel Online in an earlier directed them to find Dhaka and directed them to find out minimum wages have been hiked to interview, adding, “My nearly 50 out which products which products have high demand Taka 8,000 from Taka 1,600 in 10 years of business experience, a have high demand in in which countries,” stated Prime years. Minister Sheikh Hasina at an event majority of which is in the garment which countries.” in Dhaka recently. “Besides, the Government has manufacturing industry, has given – Sheikh Hasina constructed a number of dormitories Having identified the potential me a very deep understanding of the for the female workers and is markets, Hasina plans to help potential and challenges that the providing financial assistance to the industry diversify its product industry faces. I am very proud of the them in the case of accidents,” Prime offerings. “After that discussion, we entrepreneurial skills of the people Minister Hasina underlined, adding, also put emphasis on producing and involved in the business and the way “We don’t want any obstruction be exporting those products…,” added they have responded to innumerable made in the trade and commerce… the Prime Minister. challenges. This gives me confidence Our garment industry has already that the industry still has the hunger In this direction, Bangladesh has earned name and fame across the to grow…” already identified in its neighbour world. This sector is making huge Hasina’s focus on taking the industry India a potential apparel export contributions to our economy. We’ll to the next level has, however, been destination, and is working to exploit have to sustain the garment industry not restricted to just selecting Munshi the opportunities to the fullest. as employments for a huge number to head the business and commerce. “I truly believe that India is an of women have been created in the Her vision for the industry has been important market for Bangladesh sector… Its impact has reached evidenced in a number of steps garment manufacturers… Also, up to the villages, improving the that she has undertaken ever since proximity is very critical. However, socio-economic condition of the coming back to power. we need to also take a prudent rural people.”

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 45 BANGLADESH CANVAS

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Industry bats for long-term PM congratulates policy approach to combat Dr. Rubana Huq on recurrent gas price hike winning BGMEA elections Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina congratulated Dr. Rubana Huq on winning the Board of Directors of Bangladesh Garment t’s not very often one would see a and Technology (Buet), there’s no Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) elections particular sector losing its sleep choice but increase the gas price given and becoming the first female President of BGMEA. On 7 Iover another! However, for the the fact that the huge liability in form April, Dr. Rubana Huq met the Prime Minister at her office Bangladesh garment industry, the of subsidy would hit the country’s and it was during this meeting that the PM wished the new country’s energy sector is emerging exchequer for sure. So what is the President and the Sammilita Forum panel for sweeping more than a cause of worry, in the way out? As per industry insiders the BGMEA polls to the garment entrepreneurs’ body. The prevailing circumstances. what it calls for now is a long-term Sammilita Forum panel won all 35 posts for directors in the Amidst talks of proposed hike energy policy for the export-oriented polls held on 6 April. Dr. Rubana Huq, also the Managing in gas prices (distributors’ manufacturing industries to enable Director of Mohammadi Group, was elected in full panel for a proposal for doubling the average entrepreneurs plan things accordingly term of two years and it is worth noting here that her husband gas price – from Taka 7.35 to Taka and well in advance. Economists Late Annisul Huq was also a former BGMEA President. She 14.91 per cubic feet), garment are of the opinion that prices should has also been vocal about her commitment to rebuild the manufacturers are at their wits be reasonable and the policy must image of country’s apparel sector in addition to helping the end as to their survival and future. be stable. Otherwise, it could have industry people adopt the best of technologies. Before being With wafer thin margins, increased a lasting impact on investment and elected the President, Dr. Rubana Huq stressed on the need to workers’ wages and overheads, and manufacturing industry, hindering rebuild the image of the sector, which as per her, was a major the economical burden brought in not only the industry’s growth but challenge. “If my team wins, I will be committed to rebuild the by sustainability-related demands, also the country’s overall economy. image of Bangladesh at home and abroad as negotiation over further hike in gas prices is the last The garment industry after all is the the price of products largely depends on it. Besides, I will also thing garment makers could afford to backbone of Bangladesh’s economy ensure measures are initiated to help the industry people accept. “There is no scope to raise gas contributing for more than 80 per cent adopt the latest technology,” said Dr. Rubana Huq. price… For whose interest will the gas of foreign earnings besides providing price be increased? If the gas price is large-scale employment. hiked at the moment, many factories “…the policy should be predictable so would shut down,” the observations of that an investor can take decisions in BGMEA’s former President Siddiqur making new investments. Frequent Rahman demanding scrapping changes in policy are a barrier to B'desh continues good Government’s move to implement the invest, while it hinders the stability hike draws a very grim picture for on investments both from home and the industry, if the same is affected in abroad,” underlined a former BGMEA show in exports principle. It may be mentioned here President interacting with the media. that the Government wants to hike Bangladesh continued to witness a good show in exports in Some are calling for increased March 2019, fetching 9.51 per cent more than what it was prices of gas to reduce the burden of transparency in the whole process during the same period last year. The overseas shipment subsidies as it has to buy per cubic to rein in the abrupt price hike as in March, according to the Export Promotion Bureau data, metre of LNG at Taka 32 and selling they feel even though Bangladesh is brought US $ 3.3 billion, which is 2.45 per cent more than it at Taka 7.17, keeping in mind purchasing gas following the Public the target set for the month. At this pace, the country is in a which Bangladesh Energy Regulatory Procurement Rules, the same is not comfortable position to reach US $ 39 billion (current fiscal Commission (BERC) held a series of always followed when it comes to year’s target). March’s inflows take the receipts so far in fiscal meetings with industry bodies and the energy sector. Given the present 2018-19 to US $ 30.9 billion, which means the shipments have to other stakeholders. scenario, the continuous hike in gas bring US $ 3 billion each for next 3 months to achieve the year’s Even though the Government prices as has been witnessed in the target. It is imperative to note that apparel shipments, which necessarily may not strictly stick last few years, would definitely eat constitute over 80 per cent of export receipts, collected US $ 2.8 to what it has proposed and rather up Bangladesh’s competitiveness billion, which is a jump of 9.73 per cent y-o-y. More on the same, try to hammer out a more agreeable in the global market (due to rise in Siddiqur Rahman, the former President of the Bangladesh middle path, to wriggle out of this production cost) thereby providing Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) situation. However, as per Nurul opportunities to the competitors to said, “We hope that the garment export receipts will be at least Islam, a former professor of the grab its apparel export share, fear 10 per cent more than what it was there in last fiscal year even Bangladesh University of Engineering many within the industry. if the shipment falls for any reason.”

46 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com SUSTAINABLE BD

Recycling gaining currency in Bangladesh Once discarded, fabric cutting wastage is now being recycled by many. Thanks to popularity of circular fashion among global buyers

astage is a major challenge However, a study by Reverse which otherwise used to make its way towards attaining sustainability Resources – an Estonia-based to landfills or to countries like India andW business profitability. As per some software company that has set up an and China (technically well-equipped) estimates, wastage from production online track and trace system and after changing a series of hands to be falls between 10 and 30 per cent from an intelligent management process recycled and introduced to the supply intake materials, and that leftover of garment waste in Bangladesh, chain in form of fabrics again. percentage can rarely be pushed ensuring maximum utilisation and A very small portion of the waste is below 10 per cent. Unless the product better value for wastes – found that also reportedly used in making low- is designed for zero-waste production, the country could significantly benefit end garments for the local markets as one can hardly avoid cutting scraps from adopting more initiatives for well as filling materials in furniture, and defects. What’s more, bigger the recycling wastes from RMG industry mattresses and car seats. production volume more is the waste. for reuse as export-ready product, According to reports, Bhaluka-based Bangladesh, the second biggest which could generate substantial Simco Spinning and Textiles Ltd. apparel exporter globally, is no revenue if wastes are repurposed into is one such name to have taken exception. According to some, if higher grade textiles. up recycling to produce yarns. China produces about 26 million So why is the industry not working Established in 2010, Simco reportedly tonnes of textile wastage annually, towards it? has capacity to produce 15 tonnes fabric wastage in Bangladesh is “It’s not that the RMG sector is not of yarn/day from ‘cotton clips’ cut not insignificant either. In 2017, utilising the wastes. As to what I out during the garment stitching Bangladesh reportedly produced know, there are some mills that process. The eco-friendly yarn is around 16,356 tonnes of knit fabric cutting wastage, which was 12,512 successfully recycle wastes. However, then said to be used for knitting and tonnes in 2013. large-scale commercial endeavours weaving products like T-shirts, socks, are yet to gain popularity in gloves, towels, home textiles, denims, Bangladesh,” maintained Md. Abdul sweaters, etc. for global clients. Mottaleb, Managing Director, Filotex Ltd., a sister concern of Global Sustainable Certification Mosharaf Group, is another name Services Limited (GSCS), speaking which is reportedly playing a to Apparel Online over phone. pioneering role in turning ‘cutting Mottaleb attributes this to lack of waste’ into luxurious recycled awareness more than anything else. products to be used for home GSCS is a well-known entity that furnishing and upholstery since 2014. offers comprehensive services in The concept of circular fashion gaining Social/ETI/Technical Auditing, currency amongst global buyers, Certification, Inspection and Training Filotex reportedly turns the waste into business at all sectors focusing on fashionable products like doormats, RMG industry. table mats, terry towels, carpets, etc. As per media reports, many textile Considering the economic viability mills in Bangladesh are slowly but of such an approach, leave alone the steadily warming up to the idea of sustainability aspect, it is perhaps recycling wastes, with a handful time for the industry to nurture a already successfully trying their healthy recycling culture and set new hands in recycling wastes, bulk of benchmarks for others to follow.

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 47 SUSTAINABLE BD

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B'desh to make RMG factories ‘decent place to work at'

The Bangladesh Government has retrofits and environmental established a loan fund of US $ 56 upgrades. The eligible garment million for financing the country’s factory will get a loan of US $ 1.12 readymade garment (RMG) sector million from the loan fund at an especially for its safety and interest rate of 7 per cent. Those environmental upgradation. going for larger upgrades could The loan fund has been established even be eligible for loan up to in Bangladesh Bank with the US $ 3.37 million. aid of Agence Francaise de Besides, technical assistance Developpement of France. The worth US $ 16.04 million will be objective is to make the RMG provided to successful garment factories safer, greener and, factories, which is an initiative importantly, a ‘decent place between the KfW Development to work at’ in terms of social Bank (Germany) and the compliance. The fund will help European Union. This programme managers in the areas of safety upgrades as well as on available the RMG factories invest in safety also focuses on training RMG remediation and technical financial options.

Government ‘hesitant' to assume responsibility for factories under Bangladesh Accord

The Government of Bangladesh The report also claimed that has shown strong unreadiness Bangladesh has not shut down to assume responsibility for all factories that were deemed unsafe the garment factories under for the garment workers. It is worth Bangladesh Accord on Fire and noting that Accord had identified Building Safety. 114 factories as unsafe but more This was highlighted in the than half, as per reports, are still recently released report issued operational. by the Clean Clothes Campaign, While the Accord’s fate in the International Labour Rights Bangladesh is yet to be decided, Forum, the Worker Rights Clean Clothes Campaign is Consortium as well as the collecting support statements from Maquila Solidarity Network. international brands operating Last year, the Supreme Court in the country. According to one of Bangladesh had ordered the such renowned sportswear brand Accord to leave the country and appealed against the court’s What is appalling is that 346 Adidas, “Despite significant had stated that the Remediation decision. Reportedly, each of the out of 400 factories, for which progress on safety measures for Coordination Cell was capable 745 factories under Bangladesh information is available, have garment workers, the Accord’s enough of taking up the Government’s inspection completed less than 20 per work is not completed. Moreover, responsibility of Accord. programme are yet to remove cent of necessary renovations. the Government’s Remediation and However, the Accord, which the high-risk safety hazards Reportedly, on the other hand, 89 Coordination Cell neither has the was signed by 200 firms that include lack of adequate fire per cent of necessary renovations capacity nor has it demonstrated in the aftermath of 2013 alarms, exposed electrical wires required at factories under the willingness to inspect factories Rana Plaza disaster, had as well as lockable exit ways. Accord have been completed. to the same standards.”

48 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 49 BEYOND BD

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Turkmenistan showcases best of textile and apparel at JITAC 2019

The best of Turkmenistan’s to develop the textile market by textile and apparel products uniting the efforts of participants. were showcased at the recently There was also a special concluded JITAC 2019 in Tokyo. presentation on Turkmenistan’s Known for their exceptionally textile industry for all the high quality and original colour, participants at JITAC 2019. The there was an exquisite display of three-day exhibition, organised by a variety of fabrics, cotton yarn, the Japan Imported Textiles Agency apparel and home textile samples Council, is known worldwide for at the event. being an international platform for One of the principal objectives of all textile industries. Turkmenistan the event was to further boost the has around 70 large enterprises, co-operation between garment which not only have highly manufacturers and importers of advanced machines but also have garment industrial products in the potential to manufacture high- consistent demand overseas. The growth of the country’s national Asia. Besides, the event intends quality products that have huge and textile industry has been key to the economy.

Kenya's Kitui County Textile Centre expresses pleasure over manufacturing clothes for Government officials

The Kitui County Textile given employment to 400 youths Centre, or KICOTEC, in Kenya, from Kitui but has also ensured has full capacity to manufacture they are trained well for their quality Government uniforms, job. Notably, KICOTEC has a especially for Chiefs and daily capacity of producing 5,000 Assistant Chiefs. units. This was confirmed by Charity The facility has the capacity Ngilu, Kitui Governor, during to make all types of garments her visit to a highly advanced ranging from trousers, shirts apparel production unit. and skirts to track suits, The Governor also said that the uniforms and jumpers. people of Kitui were grateful “Since we didn’t have a uniform to President Uhuru Kenyatta making facility here, more for giving them an opportunity than 90 per cent of money to manufacture uniforms for used to go out of Kitui to other Government officials. countries. The fabric, materials “The opportunity given by youth and enhance the economic that can manufacture a variety and accessories needed for the the President to KICOTEC for growth of the country,” averred of quality garment products factory will be sourced from manufacturing Government Charity Ngilu, Kitui Governor. appropriate for different styles Kitui, thereby helping enhance uniforms will ensure KICOTEC is reportedly equipped and preferences. The Governor our local distributors,” said sustainable employment for our with state-of-the-art machines said that KICOTEC has not only the Governor.

50 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 51 MYTH BUSTER MISUNDERSTANDINGS ABOUT TNA CALENDAR Time and Action Calendar or TNA is a technique for tracking and following up on the important milestones in pre-production processes to ensure timely delivery within stipulated delivery date. Despite claims of being practically in use by most buying and manufacturing organisations, the follow- up of orders/styles during the pre-production processes are not foolproof and there are several myths which need to be redressed.

n contract apparel Time is the most critical factor in manufacturing scenario, TNA or critical path Iwork is tracked through the RIGHT order fulfilment process (OFP) by monitoring at specific order Even though most of the users are points decided by critical path aware of the term ‘critical path reporting agreement by buyers method’ (or the CPM), surprisingly on manufacturers in developing few know the correct meaning countries. However, different (definition as per operation terminologies were used by different research) of ‘critical path’. The users like ‘time-and-action’, ‘critical interpretations of term ‘critical’ by path’, ‘workflow’, merchandising industry executives are varying. ‘calendar time scale’. Many While some feel ‘critical’ means apparel managers also use project ‘possibility of non-conformance is higher’ as per previous experience, management concept such as Gantt Gantt chart chart, to monitor time and manage others feel ‘critical’ means ‘most employees who work on product time taking’; some even link ‘critical’ development and production. with ‘cost involving that activity’. Everybody selects ‘critical’ activities as PERT network or Gantt chart TNA should be same as hypothetically based on intuition format. critical path or previous experience or buyer’s How many and which all RIGHT milestones and no one actually Garment pre- activities should be there in makes PERT network of activities Garment pre-production (also production TNA depends on the buyer known as merchandising) and then arrive at CPM. (also known as WRONG activities are characterised merchandising) Sequences of activities in garment by people-oriented functions. activities are It was found that in majority of pre-production are linear Interdependent activities are characterised by the cases, the buyer specifies synchronised between succeeding WRONG people-oriented target dates of key activities and preceding activities to make a It is a common practice to list functions. and based on those target dates non-linear process network. The activities from order receipt to Interdependent the manufacturing organisation longest chain of activities considering delivery in linear sequence and activities are creates their own TNA adding synchronised task dependencies is called critical assigning time duration to each buffer days (to ensure that buyer between succeeding path. TNA should have the same activity by backward planning, which target dates are not missed). It and preceding was also a common practice to activities as critical path derived is wrong as the activities are never activities to make a from PERT (Program Evaluation and linear since there are lot of parallel non-linear process have two TNAs: one with few Review Technique) network or Gantt activities. Therefore, the sequence network. main important activities (also chart. of activities should be drawn either called milestone activities) that

52 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com are suggested by the buyer, and dependencies concerned. However, the other with more number if same manpower is to be used of in-between micro activities for both B and C, the dependency (in-house activities) to exercise relation will change accordingly control over macro activities. To and B and C will become sequential Linear activity sequence decide upon which all activities processes. should be there in TNA calendar, In a typical scenario, one order may one must prepare either PERT have 40-50 activities to be tracked/ network or Gantt chart mandatorily followed up/managed (from order and the resultant critical path receipt to delivery) by 5/6 people, should be the activity chain which obviously means one resource for TNA calendar, all activities person is responsible for more than falling in critical path are critical one activity. Therefore, resource activities. Critical activities dependency is very important in should always be on focus, a single TNA. minute delay in any of the critical activities may lead to final shipment Different orders should be followed up using separate delay. In case some of the buyer- Parallel activity sequence as PERT network suggested milestone activities TNA are part of the critical activities, WRONG then well and good; other non- It is a common practice to have critical activities will have slag one merchandiser responsible generate automatic Gantt chart time anyway. for multiple orders. Prevalent or calculate critical path and practice is to prepare separate many other requirements that Critical activities in any TNA TNA for different orders and are necessary for managing remain unchanged throughout track in isolation. Since resource To decide TNA. Spreadsheet when used order execution process utilisation for more than one upon which all cleverly can generate linear WRONG order is not synchronised, and activities should calendar dates, calculate Generally TNA is prepared as since it is calculated separately, be there in TNA variance between planned and proposed plan of execution. The situations will arise when same calendar, one actual completion date and raise planned duration and sequence of resource is expected to work must prepare visual alarms. activities decide the critical path. on more than one place, which either PERT Specialised softwares However, during actual execution of is impossible. Therefore, when network or Gantt order, duration of any activity may common resource is to be used are required to manage stretch beyond planned duration, for multiple tasks, it is logical chart mandatorily TNA which may change the critical to combine all TNAs into one and the resultant RIGHT path. If duration of any non-critical integrated to avoid confusion of critical path Managing TNA requires activity extends beyond the slag priorities. should be the automatic Gantt chart time, then that particular activity activity chain for preparation, automatic critical Spreadsheet software may become critical and critical TNA calendar, path preparation, automatic is enough to manage TNA path will change accordingly. This all activities resource utilisation calculation, phenomenon happens frequently WRONG falling in critical automatic integration of during order execution and It was found that majority of the more than two Gantt charts therefore specialised software is path are critical organisations use spreadsheet (e.g., activities. Critical with resource constraints necessary for tracking TNA which MS Excel) to schedule activities automatically reflected, different automatically and dynamically against target date, which they activities should options of task relationships changes the critical path during call TNA or critical path. With full always be on like start-start, finish-finish, as order execution process. potential of spreadsheet being focus, a single well should be able to change all used, all requirements of TNA minute delay synchronised activities during Manpower resource dependency still cannot be managed. Firstly, any change of plan during is not so important in preparing in any of the existing use of spreadsheet is progress of the order. Further, critical path or TNA critical activities merely typing activities and dates the software should help or WRONG may lead to final in tabular form. Hardly anyone shipment delay. guide the user with several It is a common practice to estimate uses formula, macros or conditional visual/colourful benchmarks the duration of activities in days or formatting of spreadsheet to and alarm systems. Generally hours rather than in ‘man-days’ or calculate variations and get alarms. specialised project management ‘man-hours’. In the given four task Therefore, the purpose of using software is capable of providing example assignments, both B and spreadsheet is virtually defeated. maximum of these features, thus C can work concurrently as per Secondly, spreadsheet cannot ideal for managing TNA.

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 53 WR TECHNOLOGIES FOR COTTON SHIRTS

he idea of a shirt which does not have to be ironed anymore Functional properties are isT as old as the cotton shirt itself. gaining importance in All attempts, which started decades ago to establish a shirt of polyester garments and an increasing or any other artificial fibre, failed number of buyers are asking as the consumer understood from for specialised finishes in the beginning the positive attributes of the cotton fibre. By its ability to different product categories. hold moisture and to release it in a For shirts, the most common controlled manner, cotton is one of the most ideal fibres among all. It AXEL BAUMANNS, finish that high-end buyers is breathable and provides a good are looking for is wrinkle-free feeling for the garment wearer. This Dipl. Ing. GMT finish. Major buyers/retailers, may have changed by today’s new (Garment developments of artificial fibres, Manufacturing who are sourcing wrinkle-free which have nothing to do with those Technology), with shirts, include Columbia Sports from the sixties of the last century. Kannegiesser since Wear, Marvins, TJ Maxx, Eddie But cotton fibre is still number one in people’s mind when they think of 1987 Bauer, Timberland, C&A, comfort. Tom Tailor, JCPenney, Banana In the last decade, new technologies Republic, Shopko and Gap. In have been established to prepare the cotton fabric by chemicals, to fabric is already resistant to wrinkles. fact Timberland is asking for make them almost wrinkle-free Unfortunately, no crisp and sharp nano finishes like water, dust or, as some manufacturers call it creases can be realised for collars, and oil repellence along with wrinkle resistant (WR). Basically, cuffs and front placket edges, as four different technologies are known the fabric does not accept any final wrinkle resistance in yarn dyed today to do so: pressing. This process requires a shirt finisher with steam and air. solids. Buyers who specifically • Pre-curing ask for wrinkle-free finishes, are • Post-curing Problems faced during garment making willing to pay the cost for such • Dip-spin • No crisp edges on collars, cuffs and treatment which can vary from Vapour-phase • pockets 50 cents to US $ 1 depending All four systems have one issue in • No special thread or interlining common: the cotton fibre is made to on the brand and the treatment. required swell artificially and, by this process, India has lot of catching up to it is losing its memory. Instead of Post-cured fabric process being curled as it naturally is, it do, but some major players who Fabric can be a 100 per cent cotton becomes straight. And as it has fabric or a cotton blend. The fabric are already providing wrinkle- increased its diameter, it is almost roll is delivered with the curing free shirts, include Shahi, Opera impossible to crease. The negative chemical inside the post-cured Clothing, Ambattur Clothing, aspect is that by this process it loses process sealed in a polyester bag. a part of its tensile strength and the SM Apparels, Bhanu Gartex, Once the bag is opened, the fabric tendency to absorb moisture. has to be utilised entirely, as it cannot K Mohan, Roverco Apparels, Pre-cured fabric process be stored for a long time. After the Medident India, Leela Scottish shirt is manufactured, it has to be Fabric can be a 100 per cent cotton to name a few. pressed fully and put on a hanger. Axel Baumanns fabric or a cotton blend. Contrary The shirt is then cured in a hanging of Kannegiesser provides some to all the other WR processes, by position on a cloth rack inside an answers to the wrinkle-free this system the fabric does not need oven for 3 to 5 minutes at about 130°C any further heat treatment as the to 150°C (depending on the chemical process of cotton shirts. curing process is done before the used). Now the shirt is ready for shirt is manufactured. The finished folding and bagging.

54 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com Problems faced during chemicals are used. Similar to the Dip- garment making spin system, the shirt is manufactured as usual. After the final pressing, a • Shell life of fabric is very limited, once sealing is opened special curing oven is required as, instead of liquid chemicals, gas is • Difficult to find the right curing used to make the shirt resistant to time in the oven wrinkles. The gas circulates through • Risk of yellowing effect, due to high the oven and penetrates into the temperature in the curing oven cotton fibre. After a while, the gas has to be evacuated from the oven. Before • Special thread and interlining required, because of heat the shirt is folded and bagged, it needs treatment in the oven to be washed in order to remove any residual chemicals. Dip-spin process Anyway, all parts have to be pressed This process is the most popular before curing. Nearly all chemical A collage of wrinkle-free apparels process for wrinkle-free shirts suppliers insist on accurate pressing and can be used for 100 per cent and curing temperatures. Pressure cotton fabrics or cotton blends. and timing also matters a lot. As the After the shirt is manufactured as cotton fabric starts to cure in the usual, it is dipped into a mixture pressing operation itself, the evenness of chemicals, which is absorbed of pressing temperature and dwell by the cotton fibres. After the time is important. The advantage treatment in a tumbler, the shirt of reliable pressing equipment is still moisturised and has to like the Veit-Kannegiesser system be pressed entirely. Importantly, lies in its accuracy of temperature during the pressing operation on the and pressure. various Veit-Kannegiesser collars, The longer the pressing time, the cuffs and body-presses, the curing shorter the time in the oven for process starts. After pressing, the curing later. After pressing, the Veit- Kannegiesser H-PV2, for pressing the entire body of the shirt in one operation. It is equipped with an automatic unloader. shirt will be put on a hanger and shirt should not be touched to can be cured in a curing oven at avoid fingerprints and impressions. about 140°C for about 3 to 5 minutes. Usually, the shirts are cured in the Process sequence of WR shirts One of the key factors for a perfect oven on a hanger on a cloth rail. appearance is the pressing quality, The curing time and temperature is as after the curing operation in specified by the chemical suppliers an oven, all wrinkles will stay for and have to be met under all life. Retouching with an iron is circumstances. impossible. It is important to talk to the interlining and thread suppliers before the WR Problems faced during garment making shirt is manufactured to maintain the quality after curing and to avoid • Washing process is done by the bubbles for the interlining and shirt manufacturer puckering for the seams. • Difficult to find the right curing time in the oven Problems faced during garment making • Risk of yellowing effect, due to high temperature in the curing oven • Extremely aggressive chemicals which can harm health • Special thread and interlining Banned in a number of countries required, because of heat • treatment in the oven • Risk of yellowing effect, due to high temperature in the curing oven Vapour-phase • Special thread and interlining This curing system is used in some required, because of heat countries only as very aggressive treatment in the oven

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 55 TRADE STATISTICS

USA apparel import kicks off 2019 with surge in both values and volumes January 2019

USA started 2019 with a positive apparel import figure both in value-terms and volume-terms by 8.31% and 8.66%, respectively. In January 2019, all major Asian manufacturing countries noted surge, and this surge was steered by Vietnam and India which marked double-digit growth value-wise. India and Bangladesh offered higher unit prices in the month than what they offered in corresponding month last year. Despite this rise in unit prices, US buyers did not stop placing their orders in these countries which signals a positive year ahead for India and Bangladesh.

Global apparel imports by the US: Percentage change in top 3 product Percentage change in Bangladesh’s top January 2019 categories imported by USA product category export (Trousers) to USA Change in Quantity

% 8.66 0.12%

T-SHIRTS LEGWEAR TROUSERS 5.25% Change in Value Volume Volume Volume (4.71%) (12.53%) (1.15%) Value rises Value Value Value % (5.42%) (13.06%) (4.27%) 8.31 Volume falls

Change in UVR UVR change in apparel imported by Fact: In 2018, US customers expected USA (3-year comparison) Amazon to deliver products under 24 hours. 0.34% (Average UVR in the review period was US $ 2.90 as against US $ 2.91 in January 2019 the same period last year) US $ 2.90

January 2018 Change in Quantity US $ 2.91

January 2017 Cotton Wool US $ 3.01 4.38% 0.12%

MMF Silk & Veg Month-wise USA apparel import trend Value-wise share to USA by top 5 apparel exporters 11.55% 30.98% 33.32%

Change in Value 7.57 Cotton Wool 16.71% 6.93% 5.22%

MMF Silk & Veg 7.06% 5.38% 5.04% % % 9.33 24.36 January '19

[The information has been extracted [Value in US billion $] from US custom site and further analysed.] China Vietnam Bangladesh Indonesia India

56 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com TRADE STATISTICS

Total global apparel imports by the US: January 2019 (Qty in mn SME & Value in US mn $)

January 2018 January 2019 % Change Type of Apparel Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value

Cotton 1028.68 3400.62 1073.68 3636.39 4.38 6.93

Wool 9.09 165.88 9.08 174.53 -0.12 5.22

MMF 1332.51 3311.55 1486.36 3620.53 11.55 9.33

Silk & Veg 29.06 113.63 38.06 141.31 30.98 24.36

Total 2399.34 6991.68 2607.19 7572.76 8.66 8.31

Total apparel exports to the US by 7 major manufacturing destinations: January 2019 (Qty in mn SME & Value in US mn $)

January 2019 January 2019 % Change Countries Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value

India 103.23 344.38 106.62 382.07 3.28 10.94

Bangladesh 188.12 491.81 199.62 534.92 6.11 8.76

China 992.70 2324.92 1105.54 2523.21 11.37 8.53

Pakistan 49.12 128.09 52.09 130.55 6.04 1.92

Sri Lanka 37.41 173.02 42.34 186.19 13.18 7.61

Vietnam 348.31 1099.11 402.45 1265.42 15.54 15.13

Indonesia 111.36 404.99 111.72 407.57 0.32 0.64

Item-wise quantity increase/decrease in apparel imports by the US: January 2019 (Qty in doz, legwear in dpr, babieswear in kg)

Exports to USA Total Imports by USA APPAREL TYPE China India Bangladesh Vietnam Indonesia

2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change

Babieswear 11,678,982 10,783,064 -7.67 5,559,415 5,097,225 -8.31 793,756 1,081,076 36.20 1,020,372 1,046,229 2.53 1,130,812 1,231,023 8.86 416,022 290,542 -30.16 Foundation 5,432,762 6,059,097 11.53 3,062,427 3,361,064 9.75 123,008 141,464 15.00 513,409 520,520 1.39 445,091 500,192 12.38 339,134 491,768 45.01 Garments Jackets & Blazers 3,069,938 3,616,769 17.81 1,504,432 1,688,428 12.23 51,353 51,370 0.03 193,773 286,359 47.78 607,062 799,600 31.72 166,182 174,340 4.91 Ladies Blouses 5,181,954 5,339,572 3.04 2,196,354 2,334,949 6.31 686,320 787,093 14.68 170,209 165,415 -2.82 942,171 980,514 4.07 649,127 602,247 -7.22 Ladies Dresses 6,212,761 6,336,622 1.99 2,867,452 3,144,354 9.66 501,366 450,610 -10.12 117,112 101,642 -13.21 1,343,843 1,363,816 1.49 401,021 392,711 -2.07 Ladies Skirts 1,288,485 1,499,092 16.35 584,528 707,241 20.99 47,671 62,388 30.87 81,169 111,118 36.90 289,409 270,885 -6.40 78,019 65,095 -16.57 Legwear 32,024,776 36,037,199 12.53 22,588,354 27,057,896 19.79 1,025,812 578,293 -43.63 0 0 0 410,521 596,733 45.36 63,091 65,009 3.04 Men's Shirts 3,663,705 3,800,223 3.73 722,007 713,097 -1.23 340,884 293,164 -14.00 1,069,575 1,249,243 16.80 496,142 490,568 -1.12 298,990 295,476 -1.18 Nightwear 4,354,339 4,632,582 6.39 2,516,244 2,721,910 8.17 221,978 274,027 23.45 256,508 256,065 -0.17 487,918 560,251 14.82 73,605 65,626 -10.84 Suits / Ensembles 1,056,985 1,182,725 11.90 531,421 659,227 24.05 33,516 71,908 114.55 6,811 6,614 -2.89 234,004 229,042 -2.12 55,617 43,811 -21.23 Sweaters 616,551 824,339 33.70 472,962 654,372 38.36 4,286 2,028 -52.68 29,199 36,096 23.62 11,084 22,636 104.22 2,461 2,825 14.79 Trousers 29,552,276 29,892,944 1.15 9,041,855 9,060,578 0.21 544,513 593,689 9.03 5,058,095 4,792,721 -5.25 4,859,828 5,517,589 13.53 1,943,742 1,647,904 -15.22 T-Shirts 48,167,458 50,437,757 4.71 9,201,423 9,929,550 7.91 2,447,527 2,448,799 0.05 2,198,549 2,210,124 0.53 7,518,732 8,148,487 8.38 2,425,785 2,318,401 -4.43 Undergarments 20,668,236 23,179,360 12.15 4,922,161 5,791,696 17.67 1,644,234 1,554,570 -5.45 2,612,592 2,657,375 1.71 3,839,878 4,771,474 24.26 164,986 269,891 63.58

Item-wise value increase/decrease in apparel imports by the US: January 2019 (Value in US mn $)

Exports to USA Total Imports by USA APPAREL TYPE China India Bangladesh Vietnam Indonesia

2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change

Babieswear 236.13 234.25 -0.80 104.97 100.37 -4.38 18.07 26.41 46.18 19.14 20.76 8.48 23.70 28.42 19.93 12.67 8.61 -32.05 Foundation 223.54 239.60 7.18 92.61 108.84 17.53 8.13 8.58 5.51 10.26 10.88 5.99 30.10 32.45 7.82 16.32 17.43 6.82 Garments Jackets & Blazers 454.06 520.16 14.56 185.84 205.78 10.73 7.39 7.72 4.47 23.53 29.33 24.61 103.27 126.85 22.83 26.78 28.06 4.78 Ladies Blouses 344.02 344.79 0.22 131.50 140.33 6.71 51.82 58.17 12.26 9.09 10.13 11.35 51.08 50.14 -1.85 45.95 42.96 -6.52 Ladies Dresses 495.57 504.77 1.86 220.15 236.97 7.64 41.95 42.93 2.34 4.60 3.81 -17.21 87.37 91.93 5.22 32.68 31.79 -2.72 Ladies Skirts 73.68 89.70 21.74 30.65 37.36 21.90 3.23 4.52 39.85 3.30 4.49 36.30 3.30 4.49 36.30 4.94 3.91 -20.83 Legwear 158.57 179.28 13.06 99.61 122.12 22.59 2.21 2.45 10.48 0 0 0 1.72 2.37 38.34 0.26 0.33 26.46 Men's Shirts 290.86 307.27 5.64 63.85 60.01 -6.00 24.33 21.04 -13.52 55.24 70.79 28.15 40.18 40.46 0.69 25.47 26.56 4.27 Nightwear 162.31 191.38 17.91 91.61 101.87 11.20 7.92 12.65 59.61 6.58 7.57 15.06 17.33 23.81 37.41 3.62 4.43 22.35 Suits / Ensembles 108.90 120.60 10.75 26.87 34.54 28.53 5.37 8.68 61.51 1.20 0.63 -47.53 21.33 18.98 -11.04 7.34 7.51 2.33 Sweaters 65.94 80.41 21.93 47.16 58.83 24.75 0.35 0.25 -27.75 1.60 2.45 53.22 0.95 1.31 38.37 0.31 0.33 4.15 Trousers 1,730.48 1,804.31 4.27 445.70 455.08 2.10 37.38 42.37 13.36 249.96 250.27 0.12 290.40 333.45 14.82 102.15 92.41 -9.54 T-Shirts 1,778.85 1,875.30 5.42 392.119 391.68 -0.11 92.497 98.981 7.01 56.69 62.46 10.17 301.87 339.15 12.35 101.71 100.96 -0.74 Undergarments 304.05 343.03 12.82 80.12 96.06 19.90 30.18 26.78 -11.27 25.31 27.84 10.02 50.32 60.34 19.91 3.34 6.72 101.23

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 57 TRADE STATISTICS

Continuous hike in unit prices haunts EU apparel import even in February ’19 January to February 2019

EU marked another month with significant escalation in unit prices of its apparel imports. Similar to January, the Union spent more euros on apparel imports even in February, volumes of which were down on Y-o-Y basis. India, Bangladesh, China and Cambodia saw growth in value-wise exports to EU as unit prices were hiked; however, volumes dropped. While Turkey, which is known for high-end garment manufacturing, surprisingly plunged in its unit prices offered to EU, and probably, this was the reason Turkey noted growth in both volumes and values of its exports.

Global apparel imports by the Percentage change in top 3 product Percentage change in Bangladesh’s European Union: January to categories imported by EU top product category (Trousers) to EU February 2019

Change in Quantity 11.57%

1.54% T-SHIRTS SWEATERS TROUSERS Value rises 0.26% Volume Volume Volume (3.09%) (-5.48%) (-0.94%) Change in Value Value Value Value Volume rises (6.51%) (1.26%) (7.03%)

6.29% Fact: 1 in 3 consumers in top 5 UVR change in apparel imported by European markets consider EU (3-year comparison) sustainability while shopping.

Change in UVR

Jan. – Feb. 2019 7.94% € 18.48 (Average UVR in the review period was Euro 18.48 per kg of fabric Jan. – Feb. 2018 equivalent as against Euro 17.12 in € 17.12 the same period last year.) Jan. – Feb. 2017 € 17.58

Change in Knitted Segment Month-wise EU apparel import trend Value-wise share to EU by top exporters (Jan.-Feb. 2019) Quantity Value

% 0.15 6.92% 30.79% 8.21 6.90 Change in Woven Segment 20.57%

Quantity Value 11.50% 3.49% 5.72% 6.24% 4.15% India Jan. 19 Feb. 19 [The information has been extracted from EU custom site and further analysed.] (Value in € billion) China Vietnam Bangladesh Turkey India

58 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com TRADE STATISTICS

Apparel imports of the EU: Selected Countries (Qty in mn Kg & Value in mn Euro)

Jan-Feb. 2018 Jan.-Feb. 2019 % change Country/ Category Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value

WORLD Knitted 445.30 6782.12 445.95 7251.49 0.15 6.92 Woven 384.76 7425.00 371.32 7849.84 -3.49 5.72 Total 830.06 14207.12 817.27 15101.33 -1.54 6.29 CHINA Knitted 139.78 2054.45 130.65 2093.34 -6.53 1.89 Woven 144.14 2563.28 130.37 2557.06 -9.55 -0.24 Total 283.91 4617.73 261.02 4650.40 -8.06 0.71 INDIA Knitted 29.34 482.32 27.78 478.61 -5.32 -0.77 Woven 18.21 468.39 17.24 464.97 -5.30 -0.73 Total 47.55 950.70 45.02 943.58 -5.31 -0.75 BANGLADESH Knitted 128.20 1489.92 135.84 1726.24 5.96 15.86 Woven 84.43 1220.92 86.69 1381.45 2.67 13.15 Total 212.63 2710.84 222.52 3107.68 4.65 14.64 SRI LANKA Knitted 7.37 148.96 7.27 158.50 -1.37 6.41 Woven 4.36 104.81 4.54 118.75 4.05 13.29 Total 11.73 253.77 11.80 277.25 0.65 9.25 PAKISTAN Knitted 20.50 208.06 21.18 227.71 3.33 9.45 Woven 20.59 273.83 21.82 290.02 5.94 5.91 Total 41.09 481.89 42.99 517.73 4.63 7.44 VIETNAM Knitted 8.59 181.10 9.12 215.05 6.17 18.74 Woven 24.56 385.35 15.74 411.97 -35.90 6.91 Total 33.14 566.46 24.86 627.01 -25.00 10.69 TURKEY Knitted 45.11 933.86 47.89 991.33 6.16 6.15 Woven 24.26 699.96 26.46 745.99 9.07 6.58 Total 69.37 1633.82 74.35 1737.31 7.18 6.33

Item-wise quantity increase/decrease in apparel imports by EU: Jan.-Feb. 2019 (Qty in mn Kg)

Exports to EU Total Imports by EU APPAREL TYPE China India Bangladesh Vietnam 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change

Babieswear 20.95 21.40 2.17 6.80 6.46 -4.98 3.45 3.74 8.40 6.05 6.37 5.15 0.25 0.22 -13.53 Foundation 9.95 10.34 3.89 5.83 5.59 -4.09 0.06 0.07 20.95 1.22 1.39 13.76 0.49 0.56 14.93 Garments Jackets & Blazers 22.32 21.58 -3.28 10.60 8.86 -16.42 0.42 0.33 -21.37 2.06 2.88 39.66 1.80 1.68 -6.88 Ladies Blouses 22.76 19.75 -13.24 6.82 5.51 -19.21 4.53 3.47 -23.46 3.66 3.36 -8.05 0.98 0.81 -16.95 Ladies Dresses 32.94 34.72 5.41 13.92 13.13 -5.66 3.89 4.33 11.42 4.15 4.41 6.15 0.75 0.78 3.91 Ladies Skirts 8.15 10.15 24.57 3.10 3.81 22.92 0.58 0.55 -5.04 1.54 1.98 28.45 0.18 0.27 43.93 Legwear 34.16 35.72 4.58 16.90 18.87 11.65 0.38 0.30 -22.49 0.18 0.10 -42.82 0.31 0.32 3.70 Men's Shirts 49.84 50.36 1.05 8.01 7.16 -10.61 4.77 4.68 -1.85 0.18 0.10 -42.82 2.03 2.11 4.03 Nightwear 21.95 21.25 -3.20 6.69 6.48 -3.13 4.97 4.51 -9.18 3.98 4.01 0.75 0.37 0.23 -36.75 Suits / Ensembles 7.60 7.43 -2.29 4.34 4.29 -1.26 0.37 0.33 -9.07 0.49 0.55 10.91 0.07 0.09 25.77 Sweaters 91.04 86.06 -5.48 30.22 24.55 -18.76 2.27 2.39 4.99 26.57 26.55 -0.07 1.43 1.66 15.46 Trousers 212.57 210.58 -0.94 52.25 46.94 -10.16 6.84 6.56 -4.23 69.36 69.54 0.26 6.79 6.30 -7.20 T-Shirts 110.20 113.60 3.09 13.66 13.21 -3.29 9.94 9.15 -8.02 53.43 58.49 9.47 1.41 1.61 14.50 Undergarments 21.46 22.30 3.91 10.25 10.19 -0.61 1.27 1.15 -9.58 4.04 4.65 14.93 0.48 0.53 11.33

Item-wise value increase/decrease in apparel imports by EU: Jan.-Feb. 2019 (Value in mn Euro)

Exports to EU Total Imports by EU APPAREL TYPE China India Bangladesh Vietnam 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change

Babieswear 418.43 445.02 6.35 138.10 138.54 0.32 74.53 83.06 11.44 103.21 116.20 12.59 5.37 4.72 -12.00 Foundation 336.09 365.60 8.78 159.33 157.91 -0.89 2.73 3.28 19.95 36.49 45.01 23.36 23.14 29.73 28.46 Garments Jackets & Blazers 526.10 532.33 1.18 220.14 196.46 -10.76 11.09 8.35 -24.74 30.65 45.65 48.94 37.05 37.61 1.51 Ladies Blouses 653.34 621.29 -4.91 191.06 177.92 -6.88 133.05 111.40 -16.27 74.83 72.35 -3.32 20.14 21.10 4.78 Ladies Dresses 846.16 957.62 13.17 354.09 377.42 6.59 109.36 123.33 12.78 56.92 70.11 23.18 14.97 19.54 30.54 Ladies Skirts 174.94 224.56 28.37 63.61 79.50 24.98 14.82 15.84 6.90 21.93 30.31 38.24 4.06 5.94 46.29 Legwear 331.74 355.88 7.28 128.93 154.69 19.98 4.03 3.60 -10.76 2.17 1.03 -52.36 2.83 3.05 7.53 Men's Shirts 969.56 1061.50 9.48 167.37 170.87 2.09 107.70 111.02 3.09 293.35 334.82 14.14 49.16 56.26 14.43 Nightwear 257.82 273.57 6.11 70.42 77.35 9.84 56.39 56.40 0.02 43.51 48.73 12.01 3.49 3.38 -3.32 Suits / Ensembles 129.44 131.37 1.49 49.59 57.36 15.67 7.70 6.44 -16.43 5.93 6.83 15.14 0.91 2.26 148.37 Sweaters 1560.55 1580.25 1.26 592.26 533.46 -9.93 41.54 43.58 4.91 344.33 372.92 8.30 28.55 35.78 25.35 Trousers 3280.34 3510.83 7.03 659.72 681.51 3.30 113.98 116.62 2.32 859.41 958.86 11.57 131.84 135.94 3.11 T-Shirts 1625.87 1731.63 6.51 230.31 236.89 2.86 167.30 159.33 -4.76 555.76 662.67 19.24 29.50 37.78 28.07 Undergarments 376.10 420.60 11.83 146.71 158.11 7.77 20.62 21.00 1.85 68.68 83.49 21.57 14.63 17.21 17.68

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 59 TRADE STATISTICS

Canada Apparel Imports January 2019

Canadian Apparel Import in Jan ’19 beats its performance of last year; grows massively Canada fell (-)0.02 per cent in its apparel imports in January 2018. However, in a major turnaround in January 2019, the North American country grew 16.47 per cent from a year earlier. Bangladesh remained the biggest contributor with tremendous growth of 48.14 per cent in its apparel exports to Canada following Vietnam which gained 29.44 per cent more values than 2018. China, despite all odds due to skyrocketing prices, did quite well and escalated its exports by 16.06 per cent, while India could just manage to grow in single digit.

Canada Imports B’Desh Exports in Value in Value

16.47% 48.14% The knitted apparel reported Bangladesh registered growth in knitted 18.01% surge during the review garment exports to Canada by 54.84%, period, whereas the woven while woven garment exports too surged segment saw rise of 14.91% in 43.93% during the review period. value terms.

Japan Apparel Imports January to February 2019 Japanese apparel imports down significantly in February Japan tumbled in both volumes and values of its apparel import in February this year. The country kicked off the year on a positive note and marked growth in its import, both value-wise and volume-wise. So this sudden drop in the second month is making negative statement for the nation’s apparel trade. Last year in the same period, Japan noted almost 11% growth in value terms which have declined by (-) 3.26% in the same period of 2019. Vietnam, which marks at least double digit growth on an average, just grew by 1.42% in its exports to Japan, while Bangladesh continued rising in its respective exports and escalated by a massive 23.93% in value terms in review period.

B’Desh Exports Vietnam Exports in Value in Value

23.93% 6.26% Bangladesh grew massively in both Vietnam marginally grew by 1.42% knitted and woven segments. Overall, in values of its exports to Japan, the country escalated by 28.80% in while volumes increased by 6.26% volumes and 23.93% in values. on Y-o-Y basis.

60 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 61 Ankle Affair Your Insider Access to FALL/WINTER 2019 TRENDS

he shows have concluded, the reviews are out, the Tmerchandise is all set for the grand debut, and the next thing to do is to put it all out there in one concise manner. Let us take a peep at the key trends that are set to float Alexander McQueen the boat in Fall/Winter 2019.

Each season, certain references – either from a Longchamp particular era, decade or political theme – come into the limelight, dictating the colour preferences, silhouettes and details, and fabric choices. But this time around, it was all a little over the place. We saw a major influx of the ’80s – statement sleeves and retro metallics being revisited; a bit of the ’70s with the boho vibe and obsession with hats; the ’90s – and even the noughties ‘Street is King’ after all. Confusing, distracting, we agree, but that’s why we analysed and debated the trends worth considering for the next season, hoping to demarcate the pool of opinions seen on the runways. In the colour domain, purple, yellow and fiery orange are the three tones to consider, whilst beige and white pose as basics for various looks. Carolina Herrera In the outerwear category, capes are back – strong, mysterious and bold – we saw bright pops of pink at Chanel, leopard prints at Marc Jacobs and patched Marc Jacobs floral tiles at ODLR. Outerwear as a whole is longline, reaching the ankles, whilst quilted jackets get a remake he season where with interesting variations of the ‘quilting’ – technique. Tgrazing the floor On the feminine front, we have super slinky satin slip becomes passé. dresses making a comeback, along with wearable day Taking cue from the soaring options such as blouses and blazers. Skin show is in – popularity of ankle-length but in a suggestive way – asymmetrical off-shoulder denim, ankle-grazing hems are the latest development necklines, slashed and sliced cut-outs as well as one in fashion. Dresses and way cold shoulders are big. skirts that skim the ankle We are also taking a walk down the Renaissance are replacing midi-lengths period, with designers and brands revisiting square and mini-lengths for the necklines, corsetry and sheer fabrics. upcoming Fall/Winter season, as seen at Carolina Read on to know our insights on key fashion themes, Herrera, Alexander colours, silhouettes, fabrics and details for the Fall/ McQueen, Giambattista Winter 2019 season. Valli and Brandon Maxwell. Giambattista Valli

62 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 63 Beige Blowout Teddy Fabric

Boss Burberry

Isabel Marant 3-1 Phillip Lim

Burberry Cyclas

Michael Kors Boss

ove over white, there’s he bigwigs in fashion have Manother subtle in town. Tsuccessfully managed to As monochromatic and steer out of public wrath by neutrals continue to become abandoning fur and at the a rage amongst street same time, introducing novel style aficionados and the iterations of the luxe fabric. reign of #ParisianChic over Texture imitating bear fur Instagram, designers and – ‘teddy fabric’ – is up on brands reel in to feed the the rise especially under the demand with this subdued outerwear category. Think shade. coats, jackets and fluffy knits! Spotted as head-to-toe Additionally, as per Edited, tone-on-tone looks at there has been a 42 per cent Jil Sander, Burberry and increase in Teddy fabric Max Mara, the colour was apparel sell-outs since Fall Hermes everywhere this season. 2017 – proof backed by data. Dennis Basso

64 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com Animal Print Shoulder Show

Altuzarra Givenchy

Roberto Cavalli Alexander McQueen

Andrew Gn Nadya Dzyak

Kwaidan Editions Giambattista Valli

dvocated successfully by nimal-inspired print Saint Laurent, statement patterns continue their A A shoulders have reached power reign on the runways and status. You would think that street – with growth more year-after-year comebacks than doubling across the would fade the style away, but board since Fall 2017. quite surprisingly, the silhouette Newness is injected via has managed to keep its own zebra and tiger stripes through it all. and cow hide prints for Fall 2019 bids adieu to the Fall 2019. Original tones fiercer and padded styles of are amped up with bold yester seasons, and sees poufy variations of neons and sleeves and the like come into contrasts over midi-dresses, the limelight. Dramatic and shoulder bags and bum cloud-like, this fantastical detail bags, and belts to appeal was spotted at Givenchy, Richard the masses. Quinn, Giambattista Valli and Annakiki Alessandra Rich, among others. Richard Quinn

www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 65 Scholastic The Bitty Bag

Lacoste Carolina Herrera-

Salvatore Ferragamo Alexander McQueen

Longchamp Emillio Pucci

Thom Browne Brandon Maxwell

t's back-to-school season ashion doesn’t always have Ifor designers and brands Fto make sense, and season as they flood the runways after season, the ones-in- with uniform-inspired charge, ensure to introduce looks and themes for the one such impractical detail or upcoming season. product – just to, you know, Polo tees, V-neck knits, devise a point of conversation. sweater vests and three Fall 2019 sees the next in the piece sets in contrasting micro-bag trend – the teeny- stripes, check patterns meeny, itsy-bitsy bag: TBB or emerged as sensible options The Bitty Bag. to beat the cold at Thom Post show, Jacquemus Browne, Longchamp, has reached cult status, Lacoste, among others. followed by Chanel, Salvatore Ferragamo and Chloe right

Paul and Joe behind. Ferragamo

66 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh 67 WORLD WRAP

Sustainability consciousness propels growth in ‘Second-hand’ Apparel Retail Industry

he second-hand apparel retail while the traditional frugality store to buy second-hand apparels. More industry is booming rapidly ESSENTIALS market is growing by 8 per cent than one in every three Gen Z will andT is expected to surpass the fast- annually, the online resale market buy second-hand clothing in 2019. fashion industry in the coming few The resale industry is marching upward more than four Overall, 64 per cent of women have years. In the present age, when the has attracted all times faster at 35 per cent a year, committed that they’re willing to buy consumers are seeking variety and the age groups, and which is 17 times faster than used apparels, shoes and accessories, value, second-hand, subscription but millennials and the broader apparel market overall. compared to 45 per cent in 2016. and rental are the top three fastest- Simultaneously, over the past three Gen Z thrive the The report also shows that more than growing retail categories. A recent years, resale has grown 21 times half of these shoppers have shopped report by thredUP, an online resale most, especially faster than apparel retail. As a result, second-hand in the past one year and shopping platform, with the research women over 65 even traditional retailers have started will be shopping in future as well. and data from GlobalData, a third- embracing second-hand apparels. Over 40 per cent of consumers also party research and analytics firm, and between the age groups of confessed that they consider the resale shows that the second-hand industry cost of an item before purchasing – currently worth US $ 24 billion – is Marching upward 18 and 24. something new. The shoppers with expected to double in the next five The resale industry has attracted all the highest likelihood to shop second- years to US $ 51 billion. the age groups, but millennials and hand are those with income above “The resale customer is no longer Gen Z thrive the most, especially US $ 1,25,000. Seventy-seven per cent somebody else’s customer, rather women over 65 and between 18 and of thredUP’s customers are working they are everybody’s customer. Mass 24 age groups. Both the groups are professionals and 71 per cent own their market or luxury, if people can find a motivated by the savings but the home. These customers are twice likely high-quality product at much cheaper younger group is almost 2.5 times to shop second-hand online than opting rate, they’ll unabashedly choose a quicker than other age groups and to buy new products online. Apart from used product. As the line between new may be influenced by environmental this, there are other reasons for the and used apparel blurs for consumers, consciousness while shopping for recent rise of resale apparel business. a powerful transformation in retail second-hand clothes. Also, the stigma One is the environmental benefits and will unfold,” the report claims. The associated with the used clothes has the other is the desire for frequent growth in the resale market is majorly disappeared and a growing number turnover of wardrobes, especially from the online resale sector. And of shoppers are now enthusiastic among the Instagram generation. Like thredUP lists 30,000 new items every single day, which are 150 times more Second-hand market will reach US $ 51 billion in 5 years than H&M. “Compared to the overall apparel Total second-hand apparel market to double in market, resale’s growth has been 5 years with resale sector driving the growth1 phenomenal. As the market uniquely meets consumers’ preference for variety, value and sustainability, we expect the high growth to continue,” stated Neil Saunders, GlobalData Managing Director & Lead Market Analyst for thredUP’s Resale Report. With the robust growth, almost 9 in 10 retail executives desire to get into the resale apparel business by 2020. Over 96 per cent of senior retail executives are willing to advance their company’s circular fashion efforts by the next year. As these senior retail executives believe the market has a great potential to boost revenue, site traffic, along with customer loyalty

68 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com WORLD WRAP

Beyoncé is bringing Ivy Park back with Adidas!

and sustainability, the customers of off-price, which for many consumers is the future will look for ways to recycle, highly compelling.” resell or upcycle and will be drawn to Growth in off-price would be higher the incredible value of buying second- if the off-price retailers would get hand and brands will need to partner into the second-hand business. It’s with resale sites and support the a sensible expansion or acquisition circular economy. strategy for them as they understand what the customer wants and how to The challenges… market that to them, but as of now, these companies too have no response Adidas and Beyonce are hitting the industry Despite the upscale, the challenges to the growth of the second-hand with a powerful partnership as the activewear are many, as the business promises online apparel sales, which will impact brand is striking a wide-ranging deal with a lot of uncertainties. The financial their market share. statements of a number of second- the popular singer and actress for footwear, hand clothes stores are not that On the other hand, the online retail clothing and an Ivy Park relaunch, causing attractive. Obviously, the store rents leader Amazon also does not have ripples among the huge fan following of the star. the capacity and system to evaluate are reasonably high and the quality of The German sportswear giant shared that both each and every garment’s price so as products and price points which can parties have high aspirations. “Neither ascribes to effectively compete with the sector get overpriced or underpriced, become to the typical stereotypes of athletes and right now. Even eBay that used to sell a challenge. what athleisure clothing and footwear should second-hand products earlier has now The online businesses like thredUp, be, and instead, will bring to life a shared moved away from the segment and MaterialWorld, TheRealReal, vision of inclusion that will forever alter the almost 80 per cent of the products sold Poshmark and many others, on the opportunities and landscape for all.” on the site are new. other hand, are charming consumers The co-collaborator is equally excited about the As the market for online second-hand away from many other channels. But deal. “Adidas has had tremendous success in the value proposition and experience grows, there will be more companies pushing creative boundaries,” noted Beyoncé. they offer is more like off-price than that are threatened. Macy’s has any other retail channel; the fun is in expanded its effort in off-price and She will continue to hold the ownership of Ivy the hunt for great stuff at the lowest Nordstrom Rack and Neiman are Park as Adidas wishes her to continue ‘her price. The thredUP report claims that putting more effort into it too. As journey as one of the first black women to be the TJ Maxx sells 359 brands, Amazon companies in larger number enter the sole owner of an athleisure brand,” emphasising sells 10,000 brands and thredUp sells off-price market, they will be affected on the power of women-led fashion brands. 35,000 brands. The value proposition by the increased competition and the “Beyoncé is an iconic creator and also a proven for second-hand is bigger, as the new business models like thredUP business leader, and together, we have the discount from list price is more than in that are taking up the market share. ability to inspire change and empower the next generation of creators,” said Eric Liedtke, an executive board member who is in charge of the company’s global brands. Launched three years ago, Ivy Park was a collaborative venture of Beyoncé and Topshop tycoon Philip Green. It had received such a positive response on being launched that the high traffic on the Topshop website caused technical delays at checkout. It was also retailed via Net-a-porter, Zalando and Nordstrom where it captured the market as one of the top brands during the week of its launch. As Green became target of several sexual and racial harassment allegations last year, Parkwood, Beyoncé’s company, gained full ownership of Ivy Park.

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Allen Solly refines trousers' collection with new ‘functional' line

Allen Solly, India’s pioneer brand Fashion and Retail Ltd., has that incorporates blends, which and has revolutionised the from the house of Aditya Birla launched a new set of trousers provide comfort and mobility. lifestyle of professionals The collection aims at refining with the new-age workwear the trouser category and collection over the years. has incorporated innovative The new collection gives detailing and modern young men a chance to make construction. The new stylish a fashion statement at work collection of fashion-forward not only with shirts but also trousers by the brand comes with a range of stylish and with sporty side stripes, elastic functional trousers. waistband, lightweight fabric Allen Solly has an exclusive and crop fit adding a touch network of 2,000 stores, of vogue to officewear. The covering 3.05 million sq. ft. contemporary collection will be retail space. It is present in available in stores across India. more than 3,800 premium Allen Solly is known to have multi-brand stores and 490 defined the category of chinos departmental stores.

Superdry sees mass resignations from top management

Superdry Chairman Peter Dunkerton in a major blow to Bamford, Chief Executive Euan Superdry’s Directors, who had Sutherland, Chief Financial previously threatened to resign Officer Ed Barker and Chairman after warning investors that of The Remuneration Committee Dunkerton’s reappointment Penny Hughes, have all would be ‘extremely damaging’ resigned from the business with for the company. immediate effect, following The move comes after Co-founder Julian Dunkerton’s Dunkerton, who stepped down re-election to Superdry’s board. from the board last year, saw the Four other directors have value of his holding plunge by announced that they would £ 250 million in 2018 following step down on 1st July 2019. a series of profit warnings and Additionally, UBS and Investec an 80 per cent crash in the – Superdry’s brokers, have company’s share price. Being the group in the wrong direction. The they must not let pride get in also resigned. The shocking owner of an 18 per cent stake in meeting earlier saw shareholders the way.” development of events came the business, he sought to return lashing out at Sutherland and Dunkerton will be taking over after Julian Dunkerton won an to the helm to revive the firm’s Bamford for their roles at the as Interim Chief Executive at investor vote which reinstates finances. helm of the group. Superdry, while Peter Williams his position in the company. Things between Dunkerton and Following the results of vote, (former Boohoo chair who also Shareholders of the company Superdry have been sour in the Dunkerton told City A.M., “We will narrowly won a vote to return to voted by a narrow majority past few months, with both sides work with anybody as they long as the board) has been appointed as of 50.75 per cent to re-elect accusing the other of leading the they do what’s the best strategy… Superdry’s Chairman.

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VF Corp. begins process to launch Kontoor Brands, announces public filing

VF Corp., on 1st April 2019, filing is a significant next step in Chairman, President and CEO, VF He expressed optimism that announced the public filing of this process,” said Steve Rendle, Corporation. this separation is the best path necessary paperwork with the forward for both companies to US Securities and Exchange achieve greater potential and Commission to initiate the enhance long-term shareholder processing of separating VF value. The separation is Jeanswear organisation into an reportedly to be completed in independent, publicly traded May 2019 subject to VF’s board of company. directors, customary regulatory approvals as well as tax and legal The new company, named Kontoor considerations. Brands Inc., will include Wrangler, Lee and Rock and Republic brands Expressing happiness, Scott as well as VF’s outlet business. Baxter, CEO, Kontoor Brands, said Kontoor Brands is positioned “Our teams across VF have made strongly to prosper as a leader in tremendous progress to prepare the global apparel industry and for the successful separation of deliver long-term value for all of Kontoor Brands from VF and this its stakeholders.

Roots Canada launches its first retail store in Hong Kong

Roots Canada, a premium outdoor lifestyle brand, recently launched its maiden retail outlet in the shopping centre at Harbour City, Hong Kong. The store was launched with the brand’s Asian retail operating partner Branded Lifestyle Group. The unveiling of the Hong Kong store coincided with the launch of the brand’s online store on zalora.com.hk, which is a prominent name in Hong Kong’s online fashion shopping. Jim Gabel, President and CEO, beyond the retail stores and can each corner of the store exhibits Cooper Beaver – the iconic logo of Roots Canada, said that to launch connect with Roots anytime and the character and heritage of Roots. a store in Hong Kong’s largest anywhere from Hong Kong,” Roots by engaging the shoppers in “The leisure-and-lifestyle-apparel shopping centre is the first and further elaborated Jim. the brand’s stories and products of trend continues its momentum in very significant step and could go Reportedly, the four-decade-old over 45 years. The store is curated Asia and we believe that the focus all the way in becoming a multi- brand, through this new store, into four major areas, each telling of Roots on comfort and style store market for Roots. brings together cabin comforts a unique story of the brand, which makes it a perfect fit for the Hong “Now, with an online store on and city conveniences to give a also includes a Cooper Beaver Kong market,” stated Sunny Wong, Zalora, the shoppers can go feel of home to the shoppers. Also, Collection that pays tribute to the CEO, Branded Lifestyle Group.

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Pineapple relocates its UK flagship store to a better prime location

Pineapple, a renowned apparel Pineapple, said, “Our location brand, has relocated its UK flagship means a great deal to me as it is outlet within Covent Garden district embedded in the heritage of the at 8 Mercer Walk, which is a more Pineapple brand.” prime location for the brand. He said staying in this area was, The 700 square feet store, situated therefore, a natural choice and opposite the Pineapple Dance what is notable is that Covent Studio, houses best clothing lines Garden, which is the centre of for girls and women, including dance in London, has grown to be majorly activewear and seasonal such a thriving retail destination collections. in last 40 years. 2019, in fact, Notably, Covent Garden has been marks the 40th anniversary of the legendary studio. the home to Pineapple Dance Studio as well as to its official clothing Pineapple has, importantly, revealed brand for many years. Expressing that it will continue its focus on delight over the relocation, Debbie investing and improving its digital year, the brand is expected to unveil which includes new product display Moore, Owner and Chief Executive, engagement strategy. Later this a boutique format concept store, and in-store experience for visitors.

Kering confirms sale of Volcom to Authentic Brands Group

Kering Group has announced nearly 100 stores across the globe. of ABG’s goals with the acquisition management team will maintain the completion of the sale of its “For nearly three decades, the has been to promote Volcom’s a majority stake in Liberated US sports and lifestyle brand Volcom family has created one digital campaigns and influencer Brands, the new operating Volcom. The company said that the of the most iconic brands in the partnerships, with a focus on company of Volcom, continuing to intellectual property of Volcom is skate, surf and snow markets,” expanding its millennial and oversee operations in America, purchased by Authentic Brands affirmed ABG Chairman and CEO Generation Z customer base. Japan, France and Australia Group (ABG), effective from Jamie Salter in a statement. One Todd Hymel, CEO, Volcom, and his alongside retail/wholesale 1stApril 2019. business, product development The move is seen as ABG’s focus and athlete marketing. With the towards expanding its fashion acquisition of Volcom, ABG values portfolio, adding to its collection its own portfolio’s value at over US of clothing properties. The recent $ 9.3 billion. acquisition will also set the The decision comes months company up to make moves in after Kering announced its aim the skate, surf and snowboarding to spin off German sportswear markets. brand Puma to its shareholders. Already the owners of Juicy Kering first acquired Volcom, a Couture, Nautica, Aeropostale Californian skate and surf lifestyle and several celebrity namesakes brand, in 2011 for US $ 608 million. (including Elvis Presley, Marilyn The brand has somehow kept a low Monroe and Shaquille O’Neal), profile in comparison to Kering’s ABG’s purchase affords the luxury fashion houses, and in 2016, company access to Volcom’s Volcom off-loaded its eyewear massive retail presence, with brand Electric.

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