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NMAH | Las Primeras Damas En El Smithsonian

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NMAH | Las Primeras Damas En El Smithsonian Las Primeras Damas en el Smithsonian La exposición sobre las primeras damas ha constituido, durante décadas, una de las atracciones más populares de la Institución Smithsonian. Los visitantes acuden a ella con entusiasmo para admirar la famosa colección de atuendos y para enterarse, asimismo, en qué ha consistido la valiosa contribución de cada una de estas damas. A lo largo de los años, el museo ha ido aumentando y actualizando la colección. Estos cambios constantes logran que la muestra no pierda su atractivo para los visitantes, quienes valoran el esfuerzo de reevaluación permanente en torno a la actuación de las primeras damas de la nación y a los bellos objetos que les pertenecieron. Una Nueva Exhibición La colección de las primeras damas comenzó con un objetivo simple: la obtención de un traje por cada anfitriona que ocupó la casa de gobierno, a fin de montar una exposición de atuendos históricos. Esta iniciativa terminó convirtiéndose en un símbolo nacional y, frecuentemente, en el evento destacado de muchas visitas al Smithsonian. La muestra original, Colección de Trajes de Época, incluía las vestimentas de las esposas de los presidentes, así como las de otras mujeres de la familia que se desempeñaban a menudo como anfitrionas de la Casa Blanca. Constituyó la primera colección del Smithsonian en centrarse alrededor de la figura femenina y en exponerla de forma prominente, abriendo así el camino para futuras colecciones y muestras en torno a otras mujeres norteamericanas. Establecimiento Presentación de las Primeras Damas En 1912, la líder de la sociedad de Washington, Cassie Mason Myers Julian- James, se ofreció a establecer una colección de trajes históricos para la Institución Smithsonian. En colaboración con Rose Gouverneur Hoes, descendiente del Presidente James Monroe, desarrolló la idea de una muestra de prendas femeninas, donde se presentaran los “trajes de las damas de la Casa Blanca”. Para 1914, curadores voluntarios ya habían ensamblado una colección de quince trajes donados por amigos y familiares de las ex primeras damas. Hoes y Julian-James vistiendo a un maniquí con un traje perteneciente a Louisa Catherine Adams La Colección de Trajes de Época La exposición Colección de Trajes de Época se inauguró en 1914 en el Edificio de las Artes y las Industrias del Smithsonian. Las vitrinas que exhibían las 1 prendas de las primeras damas pronto se convirtieron en una de las atracciones más populares del museo. Las etiquetas de identificación incluían indicaciones breves, pero sin datos biográficos acerca de las mujeres, ni descripciones detalladas de sus vestidos. Para 1931, la exposición ya contaba con atuendos de cada dama o anfitriona presidencial de la historia. Trajes de las primeras damas expuestos en la Colección de Trajes de Época, alrededor de 1930. El Hall de las Primeras Damas En 1955, la curadora Margaret Brown Klapthor montó una exhibición exclusiva con los trajes de las primeras damas. El nuevo Hall de las Primeras Damas abarcaba una serie de salones de épocas notorias, dispuestos al igual que los salones de la Casa Blanca, en donde los trajes quedaban expuestos sobre un telón de fondo que señalaba el contexto histórico apropiado. A fin de reforzar la percepción de autenticidad, incorporaron a la muestra vestigios de arquitectura rescatados de la reciente remodelación de la Casa Blanca, conducida durante la presidencia de Harry Truman. Expansión Un entorno nuevo y elegante Los salones de época de la década de 1950 se volvieron aún más elaborados cuando, en 1964, la colección se trasladó al Nuevo Museo de Historia y Tecnología (actual Museo Nacional de Historia Americana). La exposición abarcaba muestras más extensas de accesorios personales, tanto como vajilla y mobiliarios de la Casa Blanca. El nuevo Hall de las Primeras Damas ilustraba el cambiante estilo de la Casa Blanca, pero sin embargo, los vestidos continuaban representando la principal atracción. El Salón Victoriano y el Salón Azul, alrededor de 1970 Un Nuevo Enfoque En 1992, la curadora Edith Mayo montó una nueva exposición para la colección de las primeras damas, basada esta vez en la historia política y social, más que en la moda y el mobiliario. Primeras Damas: Desempeño Político e Imagen Pública incorporó el conocimiento histórico sobre la mujer y desvió el enfoque hacia las crecientes funciones y aportes de las primeras damas. Una vitrina de exposición en referencia al papel de la primera dama como anfitriona, 1992 2 Conservación de los Trajes Muchos de los trajes han sufrido daños luego de tantos años en exhibición, algunos desde 1914. Los conservadores los repararon y crearon maniquíes nuevos para sostener los géneros ya frágiles, logrando que catorce de ellos se pudieran volver a exhibir. Se diseñó una galería especial a fin de minimizar los daños provenientes de la luz, el polvo y el clima, donde se albergan los ya familiares atuendos, junto a quince vestidos y trajes que no se muestran habitualmente al público. Vitrina de trajes del siglo diecinueve en Primeras Damas: Función Política e Imagen Pública, 1992 La Colección de las Primeras Damas Cuando la gente piensa en la colección de las primeras damas, inmediatamente se imagina la famosa exposición de trajes, si bien la colección abarca mucho más que ropa. La muestra cuenta con más de 1000 objetos que documentan las vidas y las contribuciones a la historia de las primeras damas estadounidenses. La colección ha crecido paralelamente al interés del público en conocer más acerca de las primeras damas. Además de los vestidos, se incluye material relacionado con sus actividades sociales y políticas. Esta mayor amplitud en el enfoque ha permitido a las exposiciones del museo explorar historias más complejas e interpretativas acerca de la actuación de las primeras damas dentro de la política y la cultura de los Estados Unidos. La Moda de las Primeras Damas La ropa, especialmente en los maniquíes, puede ofrecer una idea de la imagen física de una persona, al permitir que hasta la más distante de las figuras históricas se sienta más cercana. Las prendas de vestir y los accesorios ayudan a ilustrar el estilo personal de una primera dama o el estilo oficial de una administración presidencial. También pueden representar los eventos para los cuales se usaron – desde los bailes de investidura presidencial y las cenas de estado, hasta las apariciones públicas durante la vida diaria en el interior de la Casa Blanca. Vestido de Seda de Martha Washington Martha Washington vistió este vestido de tafeta de seda, a principios de 1780. La seda está pintada a mano con un diseño de flores, mariposas y otros insectos. Bata de Seda de Dolley Madison 3 Esta bata de satén de seda de Dolley Madison tiene un bordado a mano de flores, mariposas, libélulas y aves fénix. Es típica del estilo preponderante de fines de la década de 1810. Vestido de Seda de Sarah Polk Sarah Polk lució por primera vez este vestido de brocado de seda azul claro con un diseño entretejido de poinsetias, a fines de la década de 1840. Más adelante, durante la década de 1880, fue transformado en vestido de noche, probablemente para su sobrina. Vestido de Seda de Mary Lincoln Mary Lincoln vistió este conjunto de tafeta de seda de dos piezas en 1861. Se observa cómo el diseño de rayas negras y flores púrpuras está entretejido en la seda. Más adelante, en el siglo XIX, el canesú original del vestido de noche se reemplazó por un canesú para día confeccionado con la tela de la falda. Vestido de Recepción de Lucy Hayes Lucy Hayes vistió este traje de satén de damasco dorado y crema para la recepción de Año Nuevo de la Casa Blanca en 1880. Es una confección de la Sra. M. A. Connelly, modista de Nueva York. Traje de Noche de Frances Cleveland Frances Cleveland vistió este traje de noche, de seda con ruedo de piel y ribete de seda negro azabache, durante el segundo gobierno de su esposo. Se trata de una confección de la modista Lottie Barton. Vestido de Florence Harding El vestido de Florence Harding presenta lentejuelas perladas sobre tul y cinta de terciopelo azul adornada con piedras de fantasía. El diseño es de Harry Collins. Vestido de Noche de Grace Coolidge El estilo flapper con solapas de este vestido de noche, perteneciente a Grace Coolidge, lleva una puntilla metalizada negra y dorada con ribete de terciopelo, sobre una enagua de lamé dorado. Vestido de Eleanor Roosevelt para la recepción de la investidura presidencial. Eleanor Roosevelt lució este vestido de crepé de rayón, adornado con puntilla y lentejuelas, para la recepción de la investidura presidencial en 1945. El diseño es de Arnold Constable. 4 Vestido de Gala de Mamie Eisenhower Mamie Eisenhower vistió este traje de gala de damasco de seda rosado para una cena oficial en la embajada británica, en el año 1957. Nettie Rosenstein es la diseñadora del conjunto, el cual iba acompañado de cartera y calzado haciendo juego. Vestido de noche de Jacqueline Kennedy Jacqueline Kennedy lució este vestido de seda amarillo, con capa de crepé de gasa, para la primera cena oficial de la presidencia de Kennedy en agasajo al presidente tunecino Habib Bourguiba, en 1961. El diseño del vestido pertenece a Oleg Cassini. Vestido de Gala que lució Rosalynn Carter durante la Investidura Presidencial Rosalynn Carter lució este vestido de noche de gasa azul con saco sin mangas, ribeteado con hilos dorados y trenza, para las fiestas de la investidura presidencial de 1977. Había llevado el mismo atuendo seis años antes para cuando Jimmy Carter asumió sus funciones de gobernador de Georgia. El diseño es de Mary Matise, para Jimmae. Espejo de tocador de Martha Washington Espejo de mano de Grace Coolidge Collar de Abigail Adams elaborado con perlas de vidrio de fantasía.
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