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Sweet taste of success Steve Curtis visits Ragus

Sugar has had a lot of bad press in recent years; refined sugars in our diets are apparently the cause of obesity and heart disease, it is claimed that in soft drinks rots away our teeth - and is apparently ‘toxic’ and the cause of the rise in diabetes in the developed world. Yet sugar is a naturally occurring substance – and fruits, milk and have been part of the human diet since our early evolution. So as part of a healthy lifestyle and a balanced diet, its consumption is not necessarily the ‘evil’ it has been described as by some of the anti-sugar lobby. Charles Esau Eastick MBE (29th August 1860 - 8th October 1947) ugar has been an essential part of sugars Sthe brewing and distilling industries Since 1544 there have been sugar impressed by their ground-breaking for many years. The basic process of refineries in London, many of them work, Abram Lyle invited the Eastick sugar being fermented into alcohol and supplying sugar as an adjunct to the brothers to set up a laboratory at his carbon dioxide has been understood breweries at that time. In 1876 there new Plaistow Wharf refinery in east for centuries and starch as a source were 300 companies making brewing London. Initially, the analysis of raw of these sugars has been supplied by sugars and many brewers had their sugar was established for the purpose grain merchants and maltsters alike. own refineries. Since then, however, of levying price and duty payments. In the form of apples (for cider and the industry has contracted. In the However, in 1883 tough times import- calvados), sugar cane ( for 1980s became readily ing cargoes of sugar brought produc- rum), grapes (wines and brandy) and available in a number of forms; this tion to a near-halt. Charles had begun even honey (mead and honey liqueurs) accelerated in the 1990s – and the to experiment with the by-products of this supply of sugar for brewing and , as a supplier to the the sugar refining process and Golden distilling has been less overt. brewing industry, has not recovered. Syrup, the world’s oldest branded Since 1976 there have been three product, was born. Under the leader- Ragus Sugars refiners left in the UK: British Sugar, ship of his brother, John formulated Manufacturing Ltd. Tate and Lyle – and Ragus. the special methods of making brew- Ragus, an independent, family- ers’ saccharum (sugar), inverted sugar Tel. +44 (0)1753 575353 owned company, was formed in and . [email protected] 1928 and is the oldest British sugar At the end of the decade, the www.ragus.co.uk supplier. Its history dates back to Eastick brothers left the Lyle plant. 1880 when brothers John, Samuel John travelled to Australia to run and Charles Eastick began a sugar a in Melbourne (and analysis and consulting practice in the subsequently Bundaberg, Queensland) centre of London. Two years later, and and Charles went to run London’s

14 z Brewer and Distiller International December 2015 www.ibd.org.uk RAW MATERIALS l

second largest sugar Peter and James have developed to- refinery, Martineaus in day’s Ragus from a UK-based refinery Whitechapel. During the into a full-service global operation. First World War Charles Their new, recently-opened multi- assumed a national role million pound state-of-the-art factory administering the UK’s supplies hundreds of tonnes of pure wartime sugar ration- sugar products to customers all over ing quotas, for which the world every day. he was awarded an MBE for services The production and use of brewing to his country. On John’s return from sugar has declined over the last few Australia, he and Charles continued years. At the moment, and including their analysis and consulting of sugar sugar for the cider industry, it ac- through the Newland Brothers practice counts for only about 6% of the Ragus in Dunstan Hill (inherited from John’s turnover. Back in the 70s and 80s sup- father-in-law) and together with their ply to the brewing industry accounted brother Samuel had formulated 11 for 25% of turnover. Brew blocks, the sugar refining related patents by 1919. once-popular invert sugar made for During the 1920s small amounts the industry, now account for about 2% Our host, Ben Eastick of specialised sugars were being of turnover. sugars include the Wychwood/Brak- imported into Britain as it was not Even with the rise of craft brewing spear Brewery in Witney, Oxfordshire, economic for the UK’s larger refiner- and the hundreds of new breweries Timothy Taylor in Keighley, Jennings ies to manufacture these. Charles opening every year, there has not been of Cockermouth and the Lodden seized on this opportunity and began a significant increase in the supply Brewery in Berkshire. “ should the manufacture brewers’ saccharum, to brewers. Ben Eastick, the host for be refreshing,” says Ben of the mainly inverted sugar and Golden Syrup for my visit to the new refining facility on ‘heritage’ that are still brewed brewers, bakers and confectioners, a new site in the outskirts of Slough, using Ragus products, “Some of the leading to the establishment of a says that there has been enthusiasm best beers in the country use our specialist factory, Ragus Sugars, on from this new breed of brewer but with sugars.” the new Slough trading estate in west no experience of buying brewing sugar London. In 1930 Charles merged the this enthusiasm hasn’t been seen in Invert sugars factory with another of his companies sales. Ben points out that brewing Sugar is the common name for sweet, to produce inverted sugars: a sweeter, sugar can be used for expansion of a short-chain, soluble carbohydrates. moist sugar perfect for baking. brewhouse-restricted brewery, with They are composed of carbon, hydro- Charles’ youngest son Douglas took increased wort gravity and longer gen, and oxygen. There are various over the running of the Ragus opera- brewlength without capital investment, types of sugar derived from different tion, but when he joined the RAF during but this needs education. “Perhaps the sources – simple sugars are monosac- the Second World War, Charles came phone will start ringing, but it hasn’t charides and include glucose (also out of retirement to manage the busi- really affected the business!” known as dextrose), and ness. He died two years after the end of Brewing sugars are currently . Table or granulated sugar the war and in the 1950s Ragus passed supplied through bakery wholesal- is normally (sucrose being to Charles’ youngest grandsons Ronald ers as Ragus cannot service all of the another word for cane sugar or beet and Barry. In the 1970s, the company brewers directly. A small amount goes sugar) and is a combina- had increased the output of refined through Murphy and Sons. Ragus is a tion of the glucose white and raw sugar to the extent lean operation; to employ an individu- and fructose with the formula where the workforce almost doubled. al to target the brewing industry spe- C12 H22 O11. Other cifically, and to run a brewing division, include (glucose and glucose Global operation would cost a lot of money and would – sugar) and (galactose In 1990 Ronald and Barry retired need a lot of business to get a return. and glucose – milk sugar). and the great grandsons of Charles Brewer Harveys of Lewes is supplied Sugar’s maximum concentration in Eastick, brothers James and Benjamin directly from Slough, others through water is 67%. To go further you must and their cousin Peter, continued their the baking business distribution. break it down to invert sugar. Invert sug- great grandfather’s hard work. Ben, Other brewers using Ragus brewing ars are created by hydrolysing sucrose into fructose and glucose by heating a Saccharum is a genus of tall perennial plants of the solution of sucrose and applying acid broomsedge tribe within the grass family. The genus is or enzymes, so making the solution widespread across tropical, subtropical, and warm tem- acidic (target pH value of 1.6). When the perate regions in Africa, Eurasia, Australia, the Ameri- desired level of inversion (the ratio of cas, and assorted oceanic islands. Several species are sucrose to glucose/fructose) is achieved, cultivated and naturalised in areas outside their native Ragus neutralises the syrup with sodium habitats. Saccharum includes the , as well carbonate. Invert sugar has a lower as several ornamental grasses such as Ravenna grass. water activity than sucrose, so inverts They have stout, jointed, fibrous stalks that are gener- have greater preserving qualities (giving ally rich in sugar, and measure two to six metres tall. shelf-life) and reduced crystallisation. All sugar cane species interbreed and the major com- ‘Partial invert’ contains 44% sucrose and mercial cultivars are complex hybrids. 56% invert, and has a value www.ibd.org.uk Brewer and Distiller International December 2015 z 15 l RAW MATERIALS

Ragus brewing sugars Benefits of inverted sugar: The Ragus range of brewing sugars are produced from raw cane and demerara 1. Reduced crystallisation sugars, with colours ranging from 2. Higher concentration and more stable – Golden Syrup is 83-84% sugar, with light brown amber to dark brown, and an eighteen month shelf life. with flavours ranging from mellow to 3. It is 20 to 40% sweeter than sucrose alone – so use less to get same sweetness robust . They are fully inverted 4. Sucrose needs breaking down by yeast to ferment, so invert is more readily products; in liquid form they consist of fermentable 95% invert and 5% sucrose, while in 5. Readily available to make colour, flavour and texture crystalline block form they contain 75% invert, 5% sucrose and 20% wheat-de- OH HO OH HO H2C rived glucose. They are all 95% readily O CH + O CH2 H2C 2 O H HO O + H O + HO fermentable (and 5% non-fermentable) HO 2 HO HO HO and with extract values of between OH O H C OH OH H2C HO OH 2 OH OH OH 321.5 and 326.5 L°/Kg; lighter-coloured Sucrose Glucose + Fructose types are used in brewing lager and pale , medium-coloured in bitter and strong ale, and darker ones in mild ale, approximately 20% greater than sucrose Since 1836, the abbey had brewed a stouts and porters. alone. Its shelf-life is approximately light-coloured beer that was quite Overuse of sugar, or using a mash eighteen months, depending on storage sweet and light in alcohol for con- with high levels of maltose, will pro- and climatic conditions. Invert contains sumption by the monks. Brown of duce thin beer. Adding glucose in the 95% invert and 5% sucrose, and has a different sizes, flavours, and production form of a brublock (note 100% glucose sweetness value approximately 40% methodologies have also been made in (no ‘sugar’) blocks are not called brew- greater than sucrose. Its shelf-life is monasteries for a long time, but in 1926 blocks, but spelt with a ‘u’) can impart approximately six months, depending on the style took its modern form when body and a nutty flavour. The higher storage and climatic conditions. Invert Westmalle released a beer called Dub- the concentration of unfermented sugars are used to keep icings and fon- bel Bruin. The beer was a success and glucose, the fruitier the beer will taste. dants moist, as they need a soft texture, a wave of imitators solidified When fermentation is complete, ad- and to help ice cream and sorbets scoop as a recognised style, with the heav- ditional ‘priming’ sugar can be added by depressing their freezing point. ily caramelised invert to start secondary fermentation and The term ‘inverted’ is derived from sugar producing much increase flavour. the method of measuring the concen- of the deep colour char- During the last 20 years, Ragus has tration of sugar syrup using a polarim- acteristic to this style for been the only block sugar supplier eter. Plane polarised light, when passed and lightening the beer to the brewing industry. It has a con- through a sample of pure sucrose solu- in body, fermenting tinued commitment to keep supplying, tion, is optically rotated to the right. As completely and creating despite not really being economically the solution is converted to a mixture a high alcohol (6 to 8% viable and Ben suggests that they rep- of sucrose, fructose and glucose, the ABV) content. resent a strong part of the company’s amount of rotation is reduced until (in Like the dubbel, the modern tripel heritage. a fully converted solution) the direction was used in 1956 at Westmalle. The of rotation has changed (inverted) from tripel is also brewed with a good por- Brewer’s Sugar No.1: This can be right to left. Hydrolysis is a chemical tion of invert beet sugar included in the produced as a fully inverted (glucose- reaction in which a molecule breaks recipe but the sugar is not caramelised. fructose mixture) syrup or seeded into down by the addition of water. Honey is It raises the alcohol level and lightens a crystalline block. It’s 95% readily a mixture of glucose and fructose, giv- body but doesn’t impart significant fermentable, with a subtle colour (25- ing it similar properties to invert syrup. colour – the typical golden tint comes 35 EBC) and mellow flavour. It’s used This gives it the ability to remain liquid primarily from the use of lightly-kilned in brewing lager and pale ale. for long periods of time. Fruit jam, malt alone. Candi sugar is also used as a when made, produces invert sugar dur- priming sugar, to aid in bottle-condition- Brewer’s Sugar No.2: This can be ing extensive heating under the action ing and carbonation, with the same ben- produced as a fully inverted (glucose- of the acid in the fruit. efits as above. It seems remarkable that fructose mixture) syrup or seeded into the current crop of craft and microbrew- a crystalline block. It’s 95% readily fer- Brewing with inverts ers are not better utilising the benefits mentable, with an amber colour (60-70 Candi sugar is a beet (but can also be that invert sugar EBC) and strong flavour. It’s used in cane) sugar commonly used in brew- can offer in their bitter and strong ale. ing, especially in stronger, Belgian search for tradi- beers such as dubbel and tripel. Candi tion and point of Brewer’s Sugar No.3: This can is an invert sugar and is used to boost difference in their be produced as a fully inverted the alcohol content without adding beers, especially (glucose-fructose mixture) syrup or extra body to the beer. when the Belgian seeded into a crystalline block. It’s is The dubbel (or double) is a Belgian beers so held in 95% readily fermentable, with a dark trappist beer-naming convention – the reverence have brown colour (120-140 EBC) and rich origin of the dubbel was a beer brewed been doing so for flavour. It’s used in mild ale, stouts in the Trappist Abbey of Westmalle. years! and porters.

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Part of the thousand tonne sugar store

Ragus is actively working to support certified cane sugar into the EU market.

Sugar market Ragus products are exported all over the world, with the notable exception of the USA, and more and more into EU markets. The business had a turnover Sugar leaving the factory of £23m for the last financial year. Its Also available is Brewer’s Sugar No.4, a sidered to be inferior to sugar cane. new factory opened three years ago, fully inverted syrup or crystalline block Brewers No.1 could possibly be made with extra refining capacity planned for with a darker colour (550 – 650 EBC for from beet, but Nos 2 to 4 need cane to a 5% year-on-year growth. This year the block, 625- 724 EBC for the syrup) produce colour without any danger of (2015) is expected to be 10% up on last derived from rather than the any associated beet (or turnip) notes. year, with 31,000 tonnes of output. dark cane sugars in Nos. 1 to 3. Ben explains that Ragus cane Current capacity is just short of 50,000 The Ragus Brublock range are sugars are selected for their abilities to tonnes. Ragus is seeing growth in both crystalline blocks containing 75% glu- make brewing and baking sugars: “We its and bakery busi- cose and coloured with cane molasses source the best raw materials, go out to nesses. Baking is 75% of its output, (No.1 and 2) and caramel (No.3). They the cane sugar mills and work directly with a ratio of 70:30 syrup:crystalline give the same extract values (321.5 with them.” Cane sugar is sourced products. In the UK Ragus has only to 326.5 L°/Kg) as the invert brewing mainly from the ACP (Africa Caribbean 1.5% of total sugar market, but 35% of sugars, but are less fermentable at Pacific) producers such as Mauritius, the specialist sugars. 80% readily fermentable, 4% slowly Malawi, Guadeloupe, Mozambique and Tate and Lyle is now part of the fermentable and a maximum 16% un- Swaziland, with some also coming ASR Group, a global group of sugar fermentable sugars. from India. Ragus also purchases beet companies with brands and operations Other brewing sugars products sugar from the EU, largely supplied to around the world. Their Thames Re- available are Dark Brewing Syrup the confectionery industry and cheaper finery at Silvertown produces around (an invert syrup at 2875 – 3375 EBC), products, but: “We don’t give brewers 650,000 tonnes of from Brewers Block, and a conveni- the beet option … for many reasons!” and is the largest sugar re- ent Glucose Chip Block at 80% readily The company is now not really finery in the EU and one of the largest fermentable sugar. The company also involved in sugar research and de- in the world with a capacity of 1.2mil- supplies priming sugar in 25t bulk velopment, choosing not to ‘confuse’ lion tonnes per annum. tankers for brewers with cask racking customers with what it does. Other British Sugar, now part of the operations – and an organic brewing sugar refiners have gone onto artificial global AB Sugar Group, produces over syrup is also available. sweeteners and diverged into other one million tonnes of sugar in the UK Ragus is also selling into the grow- industries such as Bioethanol. Ragus and an additional 500,000 tonnes of ing cider industry, with some makers works with sugar mills looking to im- preferring liquid sugars to glucose prove agronomy, water usage and sus- syrups. The variable sugar in apples tainability, working with the Bonsucro (up to 65% fructose, plus glucose and group - a global not-for-profit, multi- sucrose) due to different ripeness lev- stakeholder organisation fostering the els, are more stable and have greater sustainability of the sugarcane sector mouthfeel if liquid sugars are used as through its certification scheme and its a sugar top-up. support for continu- ous improvement Sourcing of sugars for members. Ragus uses cane sugar for its range of Distiller Bacardi, brewing sugars, with dark cane sugars for example, hopes and molasses being preferred for their to be using 100% ability to produce colour. Beet sugar Bonsucro-certified has limitations and is generally con- sugarcane by 2020. www.ibd.org.uk Brewer and Distiller International December 2015 z 17 l RAW MATERIALS

All change in 2017

The sugar market is going through a period of change in the run-up to the 2017 sugar reforms, as the EU prepares to abolish production quotas, end export limits (currently 1.5 million tonnes) and eliminate the guaranteed price offered to sugar beet farmers. The quota management system will end on 30 September 2017, from when sugar companies can essentially produce as much sugar as they want. According to Ben Eastick, before the original quota systems were introduced almost five decades ago, the EU was one of the biggest sugar suppliers into the world market – and with the 2017 reforms, the EU will gradually become a major supplier again. There are now just two white-sugar refineries in the UK. Ben explains there has been, and will continue to be, a jostling of the EU sugar market up until the 2017 reforms. He says: “There is a contraction within the sugar market in terms of suppliers. Various One of the five 2.7-tonne inversion pans takeovers are going on and that is the big players in the industry lining themselves up. It is • Automated control system using essentially survival of the fittest.” Siemens S7 hardware The most recent change in the food market has been the sale of UK sugar distributor • Relocation and integration of existing Napier Brown to French firm Tereos in May this year. In a statement about the sale, Tereos equipment claimed that: “The transaction will significantly reinforce Tereos’ position in the UK, which • Services from source (steam, water, is a strategic market for French producers.” This is, as Ben Eastick explains, the sugar hot water generation, compressed air) producers trying to capture market share in the lead-up to 2017. • Electrical services fit out (lighting “High stocks and weak demand continue to dominate the global sugar markets. In May and power) traded prices in both London and New York reached six-year lows, partly as a result of Thailand’s large surplus of raw sugar, although the general consensus is that the mar- Musk was also responsible for the ket price later in the year will slowly start to increase. As of 2017, the UK and EU sugar complete process design and CDM industry may want to reduce its EU supply as they will be able to export refined sugar on management (as Principal Contractor) the world market, if offered a more favourable price. This, in turn, will lead to prices be- during the fit-out installation period. ing much less stable as it will be a potentially volatile market, which will vary with world The factory produces brewing market prices and supply (or stocks). EU sugar imports are capped at 3.5 million tonnes sugars in both crystalline and syrup and, post-2017, this will probably drop to around 0.5mt. Nobody knows what will actually form, with a range of fermentabilities happen, so it’s difficult to say how much sugar prices will rise in value terms, but sugar is from 45 to 95% and colours from 25° currently being traded at ridiculously low pricing, which is unsustainable.” to 900°EBC. The factory produces 350 “The world is very small and it’s a global market. What is happening in the world will products – all of which are sugars. affect the price you pay for sugar – not six but twelve months down the line, as it will im- Daily production is on a batch basis. pact on EU and UK markets.” Production animal feed from sugar beet pulp. beet production in 2015 is expected to Ben and I are joined by Factory The company processes the whole UK be down 25% over last year due to an Manager Mel Boyle on our tour of the sugar beet crop in its four beet facto- oversupply in the market. All this will impressive facilities. Ragus sources ries. In 2006 AB Sugar acquired 51% of chance from 2017 when the new EU its sugars from certified supplier mills Illovo Sugar Limited, the largest cane sugar regime comes into effect. and refineries all over the world. The sugar producer in Africa and one of the sugar arrives in thousand-kilo bags world’s lowest cost producers. Their re- New factory inside metal cargo containers, which cently modified British Sugar plants can The new Ragus factory is much more are taken directly from the ships to now refine sugarcane as well as beet. efficient than the old plant which had the factory and stored in the state-of- The sugar market is currently dumping only a 25,000 tonne capacity, but to the-art warehouse. The on-site sugar surplus beet sugar at artificially low reach the 50,000 tonne output level it storage capacity is 1,100 tonnes. prices and the EU imposes a €419m/t will need to add a night shift. Current- The sugar crystals are dissolved tariff on imported cane sugar. Sugar ly, it produces 31,000 tonnes on two in large inversion pans by heating the shifts, not including weekends. There sucrose solution to over 70°C. There are no plans to step up to night shifts are five inversion pans of 2.7 tonnes in their five-year plan until post-2017, each, two at 1.5 tonnes, one at 1 tonne unless of course there is a big shift in and a small tank of just 200kg. These the market. are heated by jackets of circulating The factory was a ‘multi-million’ hot water. pound construction of 35,240 ft2 with 16 When the solution reaches a syrup holding tanks and nine inversion sugar content of 66%, it can be called pans. Musk Engineering was chosen to liquid sugar. This can then be invert- provide a complete turnkey service of ed by applying a solution of acid (or the new green field site development. enzymes), making the syrup acidic Musk’s scope of supply included the with a pH value of 1.6. When the design, offsite manufacture, installation desired ratio of sucrose to glucose/ and commissioning of: fructose is achieved to a polarisa- • Stainless steel platforms and mez- tion of -20, the syrup is neutralised zanine levels with sodium carbonate, bringing

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its pH value to between 5.0 and 6.0. suggests that this is the point of no The syrup is now fully inverted (95% return in producing a solid crystalline invert sugar and 5% sucrose) and can product, “Once the seeding process be kept in this state or have more su- has started, you’re committed to it.” crose added to produce a Partial In- Plant CIP is with hot water – no vert Syrup (44% sucrose:56% invert). detergents are needed – but the Continued heating produces colour outside of vessels and the working through caramelisation – the labora- environment are kept clean with foam- tory will carefully check batches for ing detergents. The factory, from the pH, brix and colour before cooling offices to laboratory to process area, is by circulating cold water. Kieselguhr scrupulously clean – as befits a food- powder is added to the syrup tank, producing facility. and the syrup is filtered through a Carlson plate and frame filter. The Dry goods plant is all controlled via Siemens Ragus also process dry crystalline The Pan Room, with a one tonne load of crystalline sugar PLCs, with the operator inputting the sugars, with grading, dust removal being loaded for inversion original recipe and the laboratory and metal detection at 20 ton per day two and a half years at Brakspears technician adding the parameters for capacity. A flat bed dryer - hot air Brewery in Henley – he spent his time brix, colour and pH. flows up through perforated sheet as a brewing operator, scrubbing The invert syrup is then passed and through a fluid bed of crystalline coppers for six months as a ‘cop- through a 40-micron filter to remove sugar – followed by a screening, siev- per sidesman’ and then number two any unwanted gums, waxes, miner- ing and bagging operation. A separate to the second brewer. Known locally als or metal that might have been sugar blending operation producing as ‘Ben the Brewer’ it took a serious attached to the sugar crystal. From a range of white sugar and/or raw/ back injury to force him to leave the here the syrup can go either to be coloured sugar blends. To manufacture brewery and join the family company, blended for soft crystalline sugar soft sugars Ragus send the raw sugar where he spent two and a half years in production or pumped to the matu- to a blender after sieving and metal the laboratory before joining the sales ration/holding tanks in the pump detection; the raw sugar is mixed with operation. room. When ready the syrup will be refiner’s syrup to coat the crystals Thanks are due to Ben, Peter and decanted through 80-micron filters, with an adhering film. The plant has the team at Ragus Sugars for their and packed into containers rang- a capacity of 6 – 7 tonnes per day of time and enthusiasm in showing me ing in size from 7-kilo to 25,000-kilo constant colour or soft brown sugars. around their fantastic facility and tell- road tankers and sent to customers ing me the story of their past, present around the world. People and future. Perhaps sometime soon The site has 45 employees and the brewing sugars will be seen as some- Pump room business is run jointly by the three thing innovative which give a point The pump room contains 11 tanks of directors. Peter Eastick is responsible of difference as well as introducing syrup storage, holding a total of 330 for buying melt sugars and runs the aspects of heritage from the past. tonnes of stock syrups. These feed day-to-day production operations. To learn more about sugar and four ‘flowtronix’ liquid filling machines, James Eastick buys molasses and sugar refining, the Ragus website with packages being filled on weighing glucose syrups, and is responsible for is a wonderful resource and is both scales. Blocks of brewing sugars are sales operations. Ben buys bespoke educational and entertaining. And for ‘seeded’ by adding dextrose crystals to and ethical sugars as well as running those readers who have got to the the syrup in the inversion pans, cooled the marketing of Ragus. end of this article without recognis- to < 40°C to allow seeding (pans are Ben has been involved in brewing ing the origin of the company name, cooled using circulation cold water) since he left school. With experience perhaps they should look closely at then pumped/filled into boxes. Mel as a wine and spirits buyer as well as inverting sugar.

Filling of syrups into various size containers Crystalline sugar sieving and bagging www.ibd.org.uk Brewer and Distiller International December 2015 z 19