December, 1961 40 cents

Magazine of the OUTDOOR SOUTHWEST m 1

STRANGE PEACE

By LUCILLE SANDBERG

Far hills are bathed in snowy shades ... A strange peace comes with it The winds hush, and the only thing that's heard And I find that lingering doubt Is the saucy song of a cactus wren. Is gone; that bitterness fades. So might begin a desert morn . . . The day of the desert is born, And, as such a day is born, I, too, am reborn. Contents for December 1961

COVER: "Desert Madonna"—an oil painting by Tucson artist Ted DeGrazia. A DeGrazia story—"The Blue Lady"—appears on page 4; and full details on how to order a framing print of this month's cover painting are found on page 6. 2 CHRISTMAS POETRY: "Strange Peace" LUCILLE SANDBERG 4 DESERT FANTASY: The Papago Indians and Their Blue Lady TED DeGRAZIA 9 DECEMBER TRAVEL: To the Dale Mines—Beyond the Sunset Range LUCILE WEIGHT 13 NEW BOOK: On Desert Trails with a Veteran Southwest Reporter RANDALL HENDERSON 16 NATURE: Holiday Bouquet—Desert Holly and Mistletoe 18 PUBLIC DOMAIN: Signs, and the Open Desert's Trespass Laws WALT WHEELOCK 20 ENTERPRISE: When Lumber Came from the Cliffs of Zion FRANK JENSEN 22 PERSONALITY: Martin Engel, an Old-Time Fire Assayer WARREN and BARBARA TRANSUE 27 HISTORY: How Christmas Was Celebrated on the Early Desert JOHN BAUR 30 GHOST TOWN: What Became of the Southwest's "Christmas City"? NATALIE WHITE 43 CHRISTMAS POETRY: "Christmas Morning, Southwest Desert" MAUDE RUBIN BACK COVER: "Old Fires" MAUDE RUBIN DEPARTMENTS: New Products 6 Editorial 39 Trading Post 33 1961 Index 40 New Desert Books 36 Readers' Letters „. 42

The Desert Magazine, founded in 1937 by Randall Henderson, is published monthly by Desert Magazine, Inc., Palm Desert, . Re-entered as second class matter July 17, 1948, at the postoffice at Palm Desert, California, under the Act of March 3, 1879. Title registered No. 358865 in U.S. Patent Office, and contents copyrighted 1961 by Desert Magazine, Inc. Permission to reproduce contents must be secured from the editor in writing. •z Unsolicited manuscripts and of address by the first of Desert Magazine, Palm Des- c [3 ^ photographs submitted can- the month preceding issue. ert, California. n C\J no^ ue returned or acknowl- edged unless full return Address ail advertising 0 postage is enclosed. Desert correspondence to Aaron D. CHARLES E. SHELTON 1 Magazine assumes no re- Viller, 8217 Beverly Blvd., Publisher ^ sponsibility for damage or Los Angeles 48, Calif. Phone EUGENE L. CONROTTO loss of manuscripts or pho- OL 1-2225. tographs although due care Editor will be exercised. Subscribers Address all editorial and EVONNE RIDDELL should send notice of change circulation correspondence to Circulation Manager By TED DeGRAZIA whose painting, "Desert Madonna," appears on this month's cover

rT'HE DESERT is a fantastic place. Many strange unbelievable things * happen here. And yet, many more will happen. These unusual things can only happen on the desert. The desert is spiritual, mysterious and religious. It is a big dream around a dream. Walk away from people into the desert, and soon you will feel a deadly silence, a loneliness, a vast emptiness. It is almost frightening. Then suddenly, like magic, you are not alone. Around you is felt a stirring of life. You have a feeling of a living desert, a very old desert. When you live on the desert, somehow you become part of it. Not until then will you begin to understand it. It is almost human in tem- perament. At times it cuddles you as a mother cuddles her baby, full of love and tenderness. 1/ At other times it is cruel and heartless. It goes from one extreme \ to the other. The more you know the desert, the more you will love and respect it. You will always be aware that it is alive. The desert will make you feel small and unimportant, because of its giant vastness and seeming endlessness. On the other hand, it will

make you feel big and important. Then it becomes so close to you that you can almost touch the mountains and feel the sky in your hands. To believe in the story I am going to tell you is to believe in the desert as a place of dreams. It is winter in the land of the Papagos. It is winter all around. In the distance you see a procession of Indians. They are carrying wood on their backs, big bundles for big Indians, little bundles for little Indians. They are going to their mud houses. Now it is cold outside, warm inside. After supper the fire is hissing and crackling. It is winter dark— story-telling time. There is a shuffling and rearranging of Indians so that all will be cozy. The older Indians to the back, the babies to their mothers' breasts, the young ones snuggled in between. They all circle the fire. This is a special night. The very oldest grandfather is going to tell a story. He is very old. His voice is very old. The story is very old. All the Indians lean forward to hear his words. Then, like a bolt of lightning, the night silence is shattered by the piercing yelps of coyotes. It is a brief cry, then gone. Silence again. The old man wraps his blanket closer. The fire casts an enchanting shadow on the wall. As the shadow moves the old man tells his story. "Long, long ago, a beautiful young woman came to my people. Her lovely face was white, her eyes were large and dark. She talked to us. She told us a heavenly story, the story of the Cross. My people listened to her. She walked among us. As she passed, her long blue robes touched us, but we could not feel them. Her words we knew, but we could not hear them. Her smile we felt but we could not see it. She was around us and in us, filling us with her beautiful story. Then as a breath of air she would fade away. "We never knew when she would come, or when she would

disappear. We only knew that we were happy when she was with us. We sang. We had processions carrying garlands of flowers and the Cross which she had taught us to make. "Sometimes in our processions there were slow children. When they played along too much, they would feel a push. Laughingly, they would step along. It was fun to be pushed by a Lady from the sky. "Over the mountains where the sun goes down every evening there was a tribe of Indians who lived by the big, big river. Water flowed by their village all of the time. They were called the Yumas. The Lady from the sky went to talk to them. They did not understand her. They drew their bows, showering arrows through her and all about her. She would fall to the ground, then rise to the sky, only to return again." The shadow on the wall moved gently, gently. Inside the little mud house all was blue. The very air was blue. The old man lifted his arm to speak to the Blue Lady. Voices, faint voices could be heard. They were singing an ancient hymn to the Cross. The fire was almost out, only the embers glowed. The desert Indians in the little mud house were asleep. The shadow of the Cross was over them. Outside the stars shone in the big blue night. The old man was gone. ///

(The Blue Lady was Maria Coronet (1602-65), a Franciscan Nun, who, according to legend, was "miraculously transported to the New World to preach to the savages."—Ed.) TERRY'S NEW IDEAS for DESERT LIVING Rocket Viewer ONLY $12.50 Magnifier Head Loupe By DAN LEE with 3 plastic lens (IV2, 2V4 and 3Vi power) AN OVEN FOR YOUR CAR: New Do-It-Yourseli This item is actually a stain- Mineralight Kit ONLY $19.50 less steel box roughly IO"x9"- Long & Short Wave. Operates off electricity or battery- x5" high, insulated with as- bestos, which bolts under the dash Easy to assemble. panel of your car. Two hose connec- Please add postage and California tions lead out from the hollow residents add 4% Sales Tax double-bottom of the box. The in- stallation demands only one source of heat—hot water from your car's TERRY'S LAPIDARY heater! Just cut the hot water line 3616 E. GAGE AVENUE BELL, CALIFORNIA from the engine, place each side of Send 50c for new 1962 Catalog the line onto the Hot Box fixtures, and hot water flows through the in- sulated oven. While the temperature of the box only reaches 180° (or whatever tem- perature your engine reaches), it has an amazing ability to cook raw meat. For example, when I tried the thing, I wrapped a chunk of raw hamburger in aluminum foil, placed it in the The Alaskan Camper is quickly transformed from its compact low silhouette on the road to box, and started off cross-country. roomy walk-in living quarters. Drive safely at any speed with minimum drag and sway. Moments later, enjoy the comfort and convenience of a weather tight, high ceiling home away Less than 20 minutes later, I opened from home complete with three burner stove, sink, cabinets, ice box, beds, and many other the foil and found the hamburger a luxury features. The unique hydraulic mechanism which raises the Write today for more informa- tasty brown—and fully cooked! Don't camper top can be safely operated even by a small tion on the most advanced child. Locks prevent accidental lowering. The top camper on the road. ask me to explain how it works—per- is lowered quickly by the simple turn of a valve. Patent No. 287910.'! haps it is the fact that the insulated R. D. Hall Mfg. Inc. "IN NORTHWEST" "IN CANADA" box "seals in" all the heat (similar 9847 Glenoaks Blvd. Campers Inc. Canadian Campers to the Dutch Oven principle). I can 8819 Renton Ave. 77 Pelham Sun Valley, Calif. Seattle, Wash. Toronto, Ontario truthfully state that the Hot Box

Full-Color Framing Prints DeGRAZIA's "Desert Madonna" *Papago Harvest" (on this month's cover) Each print: 10x13", lithographed on heavy paper . . . ready for framing Only H heh* You'll also want to own these colorful Dollar Desert Reprints:

D BILL BENDER'S "Desert Wash." The • JOHN W. HILTON'S "Whispering Can- LI AL NESTLER's "Rainbow Bridge." In- broad expanse of subtle desert that in- yon." A magnificent canvas—blue palms in spirational portrait of one of nature's spires a feeling of peace. 9xl2'/2". $1. a rocky Baja California canyon. 10x13". $1 desert marvels. 10x13". $1.

• ALL PRINTS GUARANTEED TO ARRIVE IN PERFECT CONDITION — ORDER FROM: Reprint Dept., Desert Magazine. Palm Desert. Calif.

*Please add 10c for postage and handling; California residents also add 4% sales tax.

6 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 oven will heat canned foods to eating temperature in a dozen minutes. That is, it will heat weiners, rolls, and TV dinners in that time. I should think Hot Box would be £)(lte$— from the Desert handy to take along on blustery winter days. Heat sandwiches, coffee or tea, canned foods, baby's milk, or what have you—without stopping the car. Place the food in the oven when you start, and before long it is ready PERFECT to eat. Price: $24.95, from Newham Enterprises, 3946-D Mission, Pomona, Calif. Christmas

QUICK - CHARGING FOR STORAGE BATTERIES: The family that tows a four-wheel drive vehicle, boat, or trailer —anything with a storage battery in FANCY GRADE DATES FOUR VARIETY SPECIAL it —will appreciate the item called Auto-Charg-It. This device consists Huge dark - amber MEDJOOL of three electrical cords, with coup- dates. Beautiful and delicious. Includes MEDJOOL, BARHI, and lers and receptacles for charging a Fancy grade. two other varieties. Fancy grade. battery other than the one in your We Ship • Item 7B - 4 lbs. for $5.50 We Ship - Item 7H - 3 lbs. for $4.25 car, using your own car's generating We Ship - Item 7A - 2 lbs. for $2.95 system. The charging takes place while you drive, thus saving time and making one generator do the work of OLD FASHIONED DATE CAKE DEGLET NOOR GIFT two. Those who trail boats for long distances can charge boat batteries We bake this delicious cake full Ever-popular, all purpose dates. en route. The feep tower, likewise, of dates and nuts. Real home- can keep his equipment ready for made flavor! Choice grade fruit. instant starting. It is sometimes the case that short four-wheel-drive trips We Ship - Item 4A - 2V4 lbs. for $3 We Ship - Item 9B - 3 lbs. for $2.65 with frequent starts will run batteries down quickly. Here is the way to handle the situation. Price is $9.95, from Nu Line Auto-Charg-It, 1015-D Recipes and 'Story of Dates' folder included in each gift S. 6th St., Minneapolis, Minn.

WATER SYSTEMS FOR CABINS, TRAILERS, CAMP- Laflin Date Gardens ERS: No one likes to pump P.O. Box 757 Thermal, California or carry water if they can get it at the touch of a button, whether GROWERS OF FINE DATES SINCE 1912 it is a trailer, a truck-camper, or a desert homestead. A Los Angeles firm All standard varieties plus the rare and unusual has devised an ingenious, compact electric water pump that operates off FOR OUR COMPLETE LIST OF DATE GIFTS, a 12-volt storage battery. The unit WRITE FOR FREE ILLUSTRATED COLOR has an integral self shut-off arrange- ment. Faucets turn the water jet on BROCHURE AND PRICE LIST and off. Just attach the two leads to the two battery terminals, attach Your valued order will receive our one hose from the pump to the water prompt and courteous attention. supply, and one to the faucet. To get water, it isn't necessary to use a separate switch. Just turn the faucet on, water gushes out. Turn it off, water goes off. Called the Camel, two models are available: 12-volt and 110-volt. For the desert homestead served by elec-

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 7 Erie power, the 110-volt pump could the Trail Scout is a low-profile 32". be used to boost line pressures, oper- Length is 50". Seat size is 18" long ate faucets -and all without the aid by 10" wide, cushioned with 4Vi" of Df gravity-feed lines. Makes it possi- heavy-duty foam. ble to bury your water tanks under- A caliper-type brake is provided, ground where they resist winter freez- and for no-fade action, it's tops. How- ing and remain cool in summer. ever, I must point out that with the Both pump models will lift water brake-disc on the jackshaft, the scooter in a sell-priming action from 15 feet will have no brake if the rear drive- to 50 feet—depending on what size chain parts. This doesn't happen hose is used. Line pressure stands at often, but it is a point to be consid- 25 pounds, with either the 12-volt ered. One of the better points of a or the 110-volt model. The latter caliper-type brake is that heat and model will throw up to 10 gallons long downgrades do not seem to af- of water per minute! This suggests fect it much. I literally pounded this the possibility of fire protection from brake for several hours on long down- your own water supply and pump. TRAIL SCOUT grades, and it refused to fade. The pumps are complete units, A LIGHT - WEIGHT TRAIL Last but not least is the low price with shut-off valve, fused wiring sys- of $199.50, which is about as low as tems, and battery leads. Prices: $59.50 BIKE: There is no longer any you can go on a power-scooter de- for the 12-volt model; $74.50 for the doubt that power - scooters signed for desert or mountain travel. 110-volt pump. Available through: (Mini-bikes are cheaper, but are for Camel Water Systems, 1221-D Robin- offer a big advantage to the another purpose.) Trail Scout is dale, West Covina, Calif. desert wanderer. Editor Eugene Con- available from Bug Engineering, 330- rotto predicted in a recent article D S. Irwindale, Azusa. Calif. that future maps would one day be PORTABLE SLAB AND TRIM dotted with "power-scooter" trails, as well as 4wd routes. Power scooters SAW will go anyplace a 4wd vehicle can 12 $109.80 Inch go, though they may take a slightly different tack to do it. They will go Less blade and motor some places where a larger vehicle Light, compact and strong, for use in cannot go. trailer, apartment or for field trips. One of the newest power scooters is the Trail Scout, a rugged, compact machine with clean, functional lines. After considerable testing, Trail Scout proved to be a dependable climber and good long-distance hauler. The most unusual aspect of this scooter is the low weight of 75-pounds, which is about 50 pounds lighter than com- SAW BLADES petitive trail scooters. Power is de- Cov ington, supercharged, reversible blades. More rived from a four-cycle three-horse- diamonds for longer life. power engine, through a jack-shaft Sizes from 6" to 36". WATER PURIFIER Seo your Covington deal- geared down to a standard ratio of er or send today for free 16:65 to 1. Lower and higher gear catalug. (Usually .75) All Covington equip- ratios are available for special duty. A WATER PURIFIER: If you ment sold under iron- clad guarantee. Remember when ordering any live or camp in an area with a power scooter that it is not possible to obtain both high-speed and maxi- brackish or otherwise unsafe LAPIDARY ENGINEERING mum climbing ability with any one water supply, a new item SINCE 1848 CORP. gear ratio—but the Trail Scout comes First and Highway 09 called the Ogden Water Purifier Redlands D, Calif. mighty close. It literally runs up 45% should interest you. Only 5 inches grades, and as long as the tires can in diameter, this amazing little unit get traction, it just keeps going. Be- will filter your water and remove cause the gear ratio was higher, the harmful bacteria, odors, tastes, and UNDISCOVERED WEALTH! model I tested did not climb as well organic matter. It will last up to as a Tote-Gote in the lowest possible Buried loot, coins, silver, gold, 500 gallons per filter-pack, according jewelry, battle relics! Transistor cog. However, Trail Scout was con- to the maker. I can vouch for the M-SCOPE detects them all. Used siderably faster on level ground, the fact that it removes all taste from worldwide by experienced explor- ers since 1932. Exciting! Reward- seat was more comfortable, and it was brackish water. The unit is made of ing! Lightweight and supersensi- easier to maneuver due to its lighter stainless steel, and has a replaceable tive.the powerful M-SCOPE offers greater depth penetration, over bulk. filter pack. 200 treasure-hunting days of battery life. From $59.50. Easy Trail Scout has a chain - guard I've heard some pretty astonishing terms. Guaranteed. Write for the which houses the full length of the claims from other people who have FREE illustrated booklet of fas- cinating customer experiences. power chain down to the jackshaft. used this purifier, and no complaints. The clutch is a special heavy-duty Price is $54.50, from Western Ogden FISHER RESEARCH LAB., INC. Fairbanks - Morse centrifugal model. Purifier Corp., 7906-D Santa Monica Dept. 2C, Palo Alto, Calif. Tire size is 14". Overall height of Blvd., Hollywood 46, Calif. ///

8 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 From the Hi Country DECEMBER TRAVEL By LUCILE WEIGHT to the Desert Floor— SAVAGE SAVAGE MINI-BIKE has IT! Write for catalog. Prices TO THE DALE MINES from $179 2'/2 to 7VJ - Beyond the Sunset Range - H.P. BERKELEY ENG. CO. 11650 McBean El Monte, Calif. Gl 46381

INDIA CALIFORNIA

VIRGINIA DALE MINE WO DESERTS a world apart are route which is a favorite with many RARE separated by the Little San Ber- visitors today. This follows Highway Tnardinos, which wall Coachella 195 from Mecca, up Box Canyon past Valley on the northeast. In the after- Shaver's Well, crosses Highway 60-70 DESERT glow—as the range turns gold, pink, to climb Cottonwood Canyon. Wind- lilac, then purple—it is one of the ing between the Cottonwoods, left, Desert's classic landscapes. and Eagles, right, this paved road To nationally known artist, Carl gradually leaves the ironwood, palo GIFTS Hoerman, when he spent winters in verde and ocotillo of the Colorado from his Rancho Mirage home, it was the Desert, for the yucca, juniper, desert "Sunset Range." tea, blackbrush and Joshua tree of the Mojave. At the head of the can- Beyond the Sunset Range, thou- yon is the right branch to Cotton- SNIFFS sands of feet above Coachella, there wood Springs, a mile away. is a different desert. Its past is rooted VATS GAROEHS in the days of gold mining, and al- This oasis of cottonwoods and though much of it is now within the palms, now the only campsite in the Box 68 Indio, Calif. boundaries of Joshua Tree National Monument with water, was a vital Owned and operated by the Monument, evidences of that past re- center for early miners. Gold had Sniffs for 37 years main in hundreds of hillside dumps, been struck in the mountains north headframes, mill foundations, rem- and east, beyond the Pinto Basin. Featuring the world's finest selec- nants of arrastres, old wells, occa- In fact, nuggets found there and dis- tion of prize-winning soft dates sional miners' cabins. played in San Bernardino started a in beautiful gift packages. rush into then unknown terrain. It Miners and businessmen in Coa- ORDER BY MAIL TODAY chella Valley, in San Bernardino, Po- was the Pegleg, sure! Miners didn't mona, Pasadena and Los Angeles held find the hill of gold nuggets, but the You are invited to visit our famous stakes in mines scattered in the Pin- Monte Negras Mining District was show garden and unique gift shop yons, Hexies, Cottonwoods, Pintos, formed, in 1890, and numerous mines on Palm Springs' scenic Hwy 111. the Monte Negras and the Dales. were started on the southerly slopes Eighty years ago they penetrated that of what is now generally termed the Please send me Sniff's upland—by horse and mule power. Dale Mining District. Despite good brochure of gifts in full color. From the northwest they threaded ore values, the twin problems of des- Name up the Morongo canyons. From In- ert mining—scarce water and wood- dio, they followed up Berdoo or Push- beset development. Address awalla. City State To reach the mines, the old road And from Coachella and Mecca went directly up-canyon from Shaver's Dates make excellent holiday gifts (old Walters Station) , they took a to Cottonwood, then angled over the

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 9 fuel, before many years woodcutters had exhausted the mesquite in the Basin and were going 12 to 18 miles for wood. By then it was so costly the superintendent considered haul- ing in coal. Of the scores of mines prospected and developed in the Dale area, most famous were the Virginia Dale and the Supply (the Supply, Nightingale, Jean and Luhrman were included in the later Gold Crown group). These and many others operated much of the time from 1890 to the 1940s, but none is actually productive today. How much gold remains is a moot question, to which some fantastic answers are publicized from time to time. But even if some of the mines should have rich reserves, the story would be the same as elsewhere in gold country today. With gold peg- ged at depression level, with labor and supplies several times higher; with the mine workings and mills gutted by wartime scrap demands and by vandals after shutdown or- ders, gold mines are only ghosts. An exception is found at the Gold- en Egg Mine, where hundreds of people have met friendly welcome from a lone miner. Up the steep nar- row road (not for tenderfeet), Wi miles from the Brooklyn Wye, and just north of the Monument bound- ary, a little white cabin rests on a shelf in the rocky slope down a left pitch. The casual traveler may won- der at a man living alone in this remote spot. But Karl Schapel is not really isolated. He has countless rise and across Pinto Basin. From miles and more to Cottonwood where friends. Sometimes they stop in to Cottonwood junction, by today's it was crushed in an arrastre, then see him by ones and twos, or the road, Twentynine Palms Highway by taken down to the Southern Pacific dozen, and sometimes by hundreds. the Dale route is 33 miles away, seven line in Coachella Valley. Later, when miles of it to the Old Dale Wye, the Brooklyn had a mill, the process On Karl's 83rd birthday, Oct. 22, where the paved Monument road is was reversed — water being hauled 1961, friends drove many miles to left; 11.7 of it northeast across the from Cottonwood to the mines. When spread a bountiful meal on outside Basin to the Brooklyn Mine Wye; wells were drilled north of the moun- tables there. This was not only a the balance through the Dale hills. tains, at the edge of Dale Dry Lake, party but a housewarming. For the The highway is reached at the site of water was pumped over the summit cabin was erected months before by Old Dale, 15 miles east of Twenty- to the Pinto Basin side. Water later residents of Twentynine Palms and nine Palms. was developed there, but early drill- the nearby Marine Base, after Karl In earliest days, ore was hauled 20 ing had brought in dry wells. As to lost his former cabin, all his belong-

WINTER THROUGH DECEMBER 7 | If* t\l ... in Palm Desert, Calif., mid-way between Indio and Palm Springs. GALLERY HOURS (winter season): 9 to 5 DECEMBER 28-JANUARY 18 tii'M J /I every day of the week, including Sundays. FREE ADMISSION

10 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 • *. -*-"

EVEN THESE BUILDINGS-THE LAST TWO IN NEW DALE-HAVE VANISHED FROM THE FACE OF THE DESERT ings, and was severely burned, in a Harold Freidland, at the summit mountains on the horizon. In a little fire last New Year's night. Over 300 camp a mile or so above the Golden cove up on the right, 2Vi miles from people at one time turned out for the Egg. From the summit the road New Dale, are buildings of the Vir- oklfashioned house raising last spring, passes more pockmarked hills, then ginia Dale Mine. Discovered in the bringing with them a feast, and their 5.6 miles farther, cuts across a small 1880s and reaching a productive state jeeps and pickups piled with furni- basin where up on the right a brushy in 1896, it became so important that ture, bedding, cooking utensils. slope ringed by tawny sand is almost much of the population from the all that marks New Dale. To envision Karl long had been a gracious host original Dale, AV2 miles below, moved the once important town for the big up here. Old Dale site is at the junc- to travelers who stopped. He would Supply Mine (seen directly ahead) , guide them through the tunnel of his tion with Twentynine Palms High- the Nightingale, Ivanhoe, O.K., and way. A well, arrastre, a few scattered Golden Egg Mine, show them the others, is to call heavily on imagina- wonders of fluorescent rocks, talk to tion. The camp's population by 1915 them about ores. In lieu of a fee for had dwindled to 50 or 60 miners, HICKORY FARMS OF OHIO his hospitality, which he refused, vis- some with wives and children. In itors developed the habit of leaving 1918 a single person was reported "BEEF STICK" fruit, canned goods or other gifts. there. There were brief revivals, and "No Pepper" Boy Scouts, who made the tour as a "No Garlic" many of the area's mines were active "No Vinegar" troop, would each leave a can. For in the 1930s. "No Pork" photographers throughout the South- • FOR SPORTSMEN • A MUST for Fishing, Hunting, land, Karl has been a patient and Skirting the basin, and passing the Camping, Picnics, Boating, Pack- interested model on many a club field right branch (very rocky) up to re- ing Trips — Because of its long lasting freshness—will keep with- trip. mains of the Supply, the road turns out refrigeration. Before the new cabin was ready, left, then right through a narrow Guarantee of Satisfaction and he was still recovering from pass which opens onto a long vista and Safe Delivery burns, Karl stayed with his neighbor, with the Sheep Hole and Bullion No Charge for Mailing 100% Pure Beef Hickory Farms of Ohio Western Division SAVE UP TO U0% NOW P. O. Box 3306, Van Nuys, Cal. Approx. 4 Ib, beef sticks are $5.98 ea. includ- ing all packing and mailing. Send check or All Steel Half Cabs — Full Cabs money order. Also a full line of canvas tops for all models of Jeeps. Please ship me Beef Sticks at $5.98 ea. Jeep parts catalog for all models to owners and dealers. New Customer Old Customer

Truck Winches — Power Take-Offs — Winch Cables To: TRUCK TIRE CHAINS AT VERY LOW PRICES American Auto Parts Co., Inc. 1830 LOCUST ST., DEPT. D, KANSAS CITY 8, MO. Send a gift that is "Deliciously Different"

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 11 ..:...... NATIONAL...MONUMENT.ih'J

ToBANNING •-..,.: " ' ''. \ LOS ANGELES .<:

buildings from later periods, mark Mountains where the Kaiser Iron a substitute for the former exchange Old Dale. Mines are. These were the two main practice. The Monument was set Walking among sparse burroweed areas returned to public domain in aside primarily to protect, as intact and creosote, the visitor can see sand- 1950, the Monument this time being as possible, a unique plant and wild- polished fragments of purple glass, reduced to about 535,840 acres. life area. But if subdivisions and fast faint outlines of building founda- Secondly, private mines are found through highways are developed with- tions, and remains of a primitive within the Monument (aside from in its heart, much of this purpose arrastre, much older than the wooden those in Dale district) because thou- will be destroyed. Individuals and one seen by passersby. Small Tract sands of acres within Monument groups are continuing their efforts at homes are edging close to this first boundaries are still privately owned, a solution which will preserve the of the Dales. (Mill for the Ivanhoe some in patented mines, some in non- Monument, yet allow a fair settle- mine is to the right.) Left on paved mineral lands. The National Park ment to private owners who are will- Twentynine Palms Highway, is the Service has been able to acquire num- ing to cooperate. junction with 60-70-99, 58 miles away, erous properties by exchange of com- Meanwhile, when any funds are in Coachella Valley. parable government land outside the left over from road upkeep, the Mon- How does it happen, since pros- Monument. This practice was halted ument administration adds new camp- pecting and mining are forbidden over a year ago, with the result that sites and other accommodations for within the Monument, that some some private owners who had hoped the increasing numbers of visitors prospecting and annual assessment to trade for outside lands now are who have discovered this land of work are carried on in this Dale area? faced with the alternatives of having pinyons, junipers and Joshuas — be- In the first place, much of the land their investment sunk or to commer- yond the Sunset Range. At Cotton- originally included was released after cialize land within Monument boun- wood Springs this year, 60 campsites strong protests of miners. Over a daries. and a water system are to be con- million acres were set aside when Efforts at negotiating now are at structed. The improvement will serve interest in a Monument here was first an impasse. On one hand, the Park two purposes: Provide more and bet- aroused. When created in 1936, the Service is rarely allotted enough ter space at one of the Monument's Monument area was reduced to some money to purchase land outright; most popular spots; Prevent camping 825,000 acres and included the entire and on the other, the present Depart- right in the oasis, so it can make Dale district and even the Eagle ment of Interior has not instituted a comeback after too-heavy use. ///

12 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 FIFTY YEARS A DESERT REPORTER

unions, meeting the tax deadlines, and borrowing money from the bank to pay the paper suppliers' bills. I had been working for several months on my book on econom- ics when I had the opportunity to discuss the manuscript with the editor of a New York publishing house. The editor listened courte- ously while I outlined the project. Then the New Yorker com- mented : "Why don't you leave econom- ics to the professors, and go back to your desk and write on a sub- ject you know something about? After nearly 50 years as a journal- ist on the American desert, you ought to be able to write a read- able book about a region which has a strange fascination for some people and is repellent to others." Perhaps he was right. Anyway, I took the advice, and after an- other year of research and writing, the manuscript On Desert Trails Today and Yesterday was accept- ed for publication by Westernlore Press of Los Angeles, and is sched- uled for completion early in De- RANDALL HENDERSON, cember. founder and first editor of DESERT, The most interesting form of draws on a half-century's life on the desert is the human experience as a Southwest journalist species which has adapted itself to to write a new book on some of this arid land. the people--past and present--who helped On Desert Trails is mostly about people — those who down shape this arid land's unique ways... through the years, with widely varying motives, have come to HEN I retired in March, major in college, and had contin- this land of scanty rainfall and 19 59, after 21 years at the ued to be a fascinating field of far horizons for religious freedom, W editorial desk of Desert, I research. I planned to write a adventure, economic security and made known my intention to book on economics—more accur- wealth, or for health and recrea- continue my writing career. ately, applied economics from the tion. In the early period of dis- standpoint of a small town pub- covery and exploration, they were My spare time hobby down lisher who for nearly a half-cen- the strong ones who since the en- through the years had been the tury had been writing the weekly trada of Marcos de Niza in 1539 study of economics—that was my payroll checks, quibbling with the pitted their ingenuity and forti-

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 13 HENDERSON (continued) tude against the elements of a harsh land. Some of the characters in my new book are names widely known. It was inevitable that such men as Coronado, OF Bill Williams, Brigham Young, James Gadsden, Lieut. Joseph C. Ives, Kit Carson, and Death Valley Scotty and his millionaire partner, Albert Johnson, should have roles in such a book. But, there are scores of other men and women whose names seldom if ever appeared in the headlines, who have also played significant roles in the drama of Southwestern exploration and set- "MIKE" GOULDING AYOO'NALH NEZI tlement. They are Harry and Mike Goulding, traders in Mon- Southwest—a legend which, despite Many theories were advanced as to ument Valley; Gus Lederer and its tragic ending, gives expression to his fate. Persons unfamiliar with the Tommy Jones, jackass prospectors the longing for beauty and peace and peaceful character of these Indians freedom which is buried deep in the today suggested that he may have so cantankerous they could not heart of nearly every civilized human. been killed by the tribesmen of the live together in the same cabin, He deserves a permanent niche in the region. Others, knowing his adven- but whose dying wish was that library of Southwestern lore. turous nature, thought he may have they be buried side by side; Henry fallen while trying to explore one In the redrock canyon wilderness of the almost inaccessible cliff dwell- Wilson, who spent a lifetime of southern in the early months ings in this area, long abandoned by searching for the Lost Pegleg gold; of 1935, posses were conducting a their builders. One theory was that Joe Kerley, who learned the hard widespread search for the 22-year-old he may have been drowned while artist and poet who had gone into trying to swim the Colorado River. way how to trade with the Navajo this region with his two burros the Indians; Ayoo'nalh nezi, the Nav- previous November, and had failed The motives which prompted this ajo medicine man who believed to return. talented young man to forsake a good in many gods; and the unnamed Everett's fate remains a mystery to home in Los Angeles and spend his tenderfoot who spent most of a this day. His burros were found in days in endless wandering among the day trying to excavate his car an improvised corral, and a campsite precipitous canyons of this primitive was identified as probably his—but area, were baffling to many. Everett from a sandy arroyo with a tin had once penned a revealing letter drinking cup. his packs, including food, clothing, artist's supplies and note books, have to his friend Bill Jacobs. Camping never been located. beside War God Spring on Navajo All of these characters have ap- Mountain in northern one peared at one time or another in For nearly four years this youth evening, he had written: the pages of Desert, but I have and his pack animals had been tramp- reassembled them now within the ing the wild areas of the desert. Oc- "The perfection of this place is covers of a single volume. casionally he had appeared at the one reason why I distrust ever return- trading posts and small stores in this ing to the cities. Here I wander in sparsely settled region to obtain sup- beauty and perfection. There one plies, and he was known to many of walks in the midst of ugliness and the Navajo and Hopi Indians and mistakes. All is made for man, but T-»VERETT RUESS is one of the traders of the area. They liked the where can one find surroundings to H desert's sons whose story I tell in young man, and no effort was spared match one's ideals and imaginings? ^~* On Desert Trails. His saga has in the search which might solve the It is possible to live and dream in now become a legend of the Desert mystery of his disappearance. ugly ill-fitting places, but how much

"The most interesting form of life on the desert is the human species which has adapted itself to the arid land, ON DESERT TRAILS is mostly about people. ft

14 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 artist's supplies, clothing and toilet- ries, could be construed as support- ing this theory. Soon after public interest became aroused over the Ru- ess mystery, and posses began making the search, the suspected men aban- doned their camp and left the area. "So convinced were my Mormon friends of the plausibility of this ex- planation, they went into the region some time later on an unannounced quest of their own, and spent several days seeking clues which might con- firm their suspicions. They found nothing. Perhaps the secret lies bur- ied deep in the broad muddy waters of the Colorado a few miles away, or beneath the sand and rocks of one of the many almost inaccessible can- yon recesses of the region." Within a few months the rising waters of Lake Powell behind Glen Canyon Dam will be backing up into many of these canyons, and the pos- DEATH VALLEY SCOTTY HENRY WILSON sibility of finding any further clues which would solve the mystery of Everett's fate seems very remote in- better to be where all is beautiful it was necessary to cross their wagons deed. But the legend of a young and unscarred . . ." to reach their destination at Bluff, artist who lost his life in a quest for, In 1939-40 I published the story Utah. There a settlement was to be and interpretation of, the beauty of of Everett Ruess and his vagabond founded. Creation will remain a tragic but life in the wild areas, as compiled by "Ranchers, running cattle in the reassuring page in the folklore of the Hugh Lacy, together with many of Hole-in-the-Rock area where round- Desert Southwest. Everett's poems, letters and art prints. ups were difficult and strays not easy This material later was brought out to find, were convinced the men were As one of Everett's friends once in book form. outlaws putting their own brand on commented: "In a civilization in mavericks. The suspects posed as which art and poetry too often are In my book, On Desert Trails, I sacrificed on the altars of wealth and suggest a new clue to the possible legitimate cowmen. Their identity was known and they came to Esca- physical ease, it is refreshing to make fate of the young artist. The manu- the acquaintance of an American boy script reads: lante periodically for supplies, but it was never possible to get positive who found exaltation only in spirit- "One summer in the early 1950s I evidence of their guilt. ual values." was a member of a camping expedi- tion in southern Utah. We spent a "In this situation it was arranged week looking for ancient cliff dwell- that rumors should be circulated — HAVEN'T abandoned my ings in the area where Everett's bur- and passed along to the suspected original book project dealing men—that the cattlemen had secured ros were found. This was a saddle I with economic problems, but the services of FBI men, who would trip, and our wranglers were Mormon economics has become a revolu- cowboys who had resided for many come into the region to investigate years in Escalante and knew the cattle rustling along the Colorado tionary subject. American and country intimately. River. It was hoped the threat would British economists differ widely in end the depredations. "One evening as we sat around our their theories, and in the United "This was the stage setting into States, right and left wing Ameri- campfire they told us their conclu- which Everett Ruess unwittingly pro- sions as to the fate of Everett Ruess. jected himself. He was a lone wan- cans are as far apart as day and The names must remain anonymous derer, who went into the remote night. Even Krushchev and Mao because, even though the principals wilderness where the suspected men Tze-Tung have fallen out over are now dead, the story involves foul were operating their cattle business. the interpretation of Karl Marx. play and no evidence has ever been Family and friends could readily obtained to prove their guilt. Their understand the motives which im- Since the professors obviously story was this: pelled this youthful artist to do this have failed to solve the problem, "In the early 1930s some men, be- kind of thing. But to guilt-conscious I may yet dig up my unfinished strangers who had been warned that lieved to be cattle rustlers, were manuscript and contribute my camping in the wild country along the law might be coming their way, the Colorado River not far from the any explanation he might give would bit to the confusion. Hole-in-the-Rock. This landmark was seem wholly irrational. In the meantime, life on the given its name by a hardy band of "My informants were convinced American desert goes along ser- Mormon colonists who had spent that Everett had met with foul play. nearly the entire winter of 1879-80 The fact that his burros had been enely, and I hope my current chiseling a trail through the rimrock safely corraled, but no trace ever book fulfills the expectations of down to the Colorado River where found of his bedroll, notes, grubstake, its publishers. ///

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 15 Holiday Bouquet: DESERT HOLLY, MISTLETOE

S THE CHRISTMAS season certain Mistletoes growing on Oaks. returns, our thoughts again The strange flower-shaped structures A turn to decorative plants such or deformations are exposed when as the Holly, plants with holly-like the Mistletoes die and are removed leaves, and Mistletoe. from the host trees. In the Southwest, attention is given The single seeds within each of to the holly-leafed Salt Bush or Des- the Desert Mistletoe berries are very ert Holly (Atriplex hymenolytra). beautiful with their glistening coats This alkali- and salt-loving plant is and fine parallel longitudinal striae. found growing in many of the more I often engender considerable amuse- humus-destitute soils of hillsides, des- ment when I induce my uninitiated ert washes and alluvial plains around friends to crush one of the juicy ber- dry lakes from near or below sea-level ries between the ends of the thumb to 3000 feet altitude. The plant, no- and forefinger. The berry hull easily where really plentiful, ranges through comes loose, leaving the mucilaginous southern Utah, southern Nevada, seed adhering to one of the two fin- western , and the Colo- gers. Next I direct them to see if they rado Desert of California and north- can wipe off the adhering sticky seed ern Baja California. by alternately moving the thumb and The somewhat succulent new forefinger over it. They usually find growth that occurs after rains is a that in spite of long and persistent lively silver-green, but as the season efforts the seed always remains tan- advances the toothed-leaves may take talizingly adherent. Generally they give up in ludicrous amazement. I on a beautiful rose or purple tint. THE TINY BERRIES OF "MESQUITE" MISTLETOE If prolonged drouth occurs, Desert ARE WHITE TO CORAL PINK OR RED IN COLOR expect that birds sometimes find these Holly's leaves eventually become piti- seeds similarly adhering to their fully shrunken and dry, and fall off. of Mistletoe is a different matter. beaks even as they rub this way and If, as sometimes happens, the plants Desert trees grow better when rid that on tree limbs for long periods. eventually die, the tortuous and of this parasite. In their efforts to free their beaks of spreading woody stems, bleached to the seed, they somewhat wound the Here in the Southwestern deserts, bark. Then when the seed eventu- silvery whiteness in the desert sun, our most common Mistletoe is a near- are among the most attractive plants ally sticks to the abraded surface it leafless one called by the botanists, finds conditions advantageous for its for dry arrangements for the Christ- Phoradendron californica. What mas mantlepiece or gift-laden table. growth. The viscid seed pulp soon leaves it has are reduced to mere hardens, thus affording protection to sharpish scales. Clustered coral-pink While Desert Holly is really a plant the seed as well as insuring its per- to pearl-white berries make it especi- of the wild, it seems to do equally manent lodgement. ally attractive. well in gardens, especially in the low hot deserts. It may be propagated Among trees and shrubs which act On germination, the Mistletoe from seeds gathered in late summer as hosts for this semi-parasite are the seed's first sucker or radicle enters from inside the large-winged fruits Ironwood, Catsclaw, Mesquite and the tissue of the tree and grows down- and planted in sandy soil. Several occasionally the Creosote-bush, Palo- ward through the bark until the wood desert nurseries offer vigorous well- verde and Ocotillo. The dark-green is reached. As the branch of the host established young plants in cans. thick-set clusters of stems hanging tree increases its growth by its usual Planted and given occasional water- from the branches can be seen from secondary thickening, it grows up and ings, they soon become handsome afar. When the Desert Mistletoe at- around the Mistletoe sucker, soon en- spreading round shrubs, one to sev- tacks Ironwood, it often causes enor- closing it. At the base of the sucker, eral feet in diameter—a true orna- mous spindle-shaped woody boles to situated in the bark of the infected ment to any garden, especially when form, some of them weighing up to branch, is a zone of growth which heavy with fruiting branches. The 20 pounds or more. Mistletoe is enables the sucker to lengthen with sexes are separate. really a great delormer of Ironwood, the increase of thickness of the branch and when occurring on many in which it grows. At the same time, It is from the home-grown plants, branches may eventually kill the tree. rather than from those growing in it gives rise to lateral roots which grow in the cortex of the branch the wild, that I recommend any Incidentally, "Wood Flowers" or parallel to its long axis. These roots pieces be plucked for decorations. "Floras de Madc.ra," those curious in turn produce new suckers which Leave the wild plants to grace and and very beautiful structures of ciark become buried in the wood of the enhance the beauty of the desert brown wood that assume a flower- host. It is all a very clever process washes. Many hands gathering Des- like sculptured form, are often sold assuring the Mistletoe plenty of water ert Holly can soon deplete the supply as curios in parts of Mexico and throughout its slow but very persist- and actually imperil its existence, Central America. Various supersti- ent growth. especially where it grows near places tions are held concerning their for- frequented by man. The gathering mation, but they are boles made by The Mistletoe is a water-parasite

16 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 since it takes mostly water from its make a faint clicking noise when Last year at Christmas time, as I host, relying on the chlorophyll of suddenly exposed to light. It is one was approaching the shore and beau- its own stems and leaves for the man- of the few butterfly pupae that makes tiful azure waters of the Gulf of Cali- ufacture of most of its sugars so need- a sound. One can see no visible move- fornia near Bahia de Los Angeles, I ful for growth. It is a case of partial ment as they produce it. Some pupae came upon an Elephant Tree (Pach- rather than total parasitism. of sphingid moths make a squeaking ycormus) and was suddenly con- noise by moving the abdomen from fronted by this marvelous Mistletoe The plants are of separate sexes, side to side, scraping together the plant — Phrygilanthus sonorae — its and the flowers in many kinds are sides of the overlapping parts. green stems and leaves entirely hid- quite small and inconspicuous. The den by an abundance of scarlet flow- small yellowish male flowers of the The adult butterfly, about an inch ers. Hummingbirds in numbers were Desert Mistletoe may occur in great across, has very irridescent blue there too—and this combination of abundance. They are very fragrant wings. Two large dark spots are on colorful flowers and feathered jewels and hence attract numerous insects. the fore pair. Each hind wing has darting here and there amongst them, The pleasant odors are much like two tails, one very thin, the other was a never-to-be-forgotten sight — a those attending the flowering of ap- wide and always twisted. It is prob- red letter day, in the literal sense. ple or plum trees. ably the only American butterfly that This Mistletoe is called Ingerto by feeds on Mistletoe, but in Australia the Mexicans, the word meaning "to Since the water-filled Mistletoe ber- a whole series of pierid butterflies meddle, to interfere with." It em- ries are a favorite food for several of feed on this parasite. braces the same idea as the generic our desert birds, they play a consid- name of the Mistletoe of our desert, erable part in the economy of the If you would see Mistletoes at their very best you must go to the tropics Phoradendron — literally: "a tree wild. Often they are the only source thief." of moisture for the birds in the long and near-tropics where the red-flow- hot summer. Thanks to Mistletoe ered species grow. These are spectac- ular beyond description. The flowers There are other species of red-flow- berries, certain of the hardy birds, ered Mistletoes in other parts of the such as the Gilded Flicker, Gambel are tubular, perhaps an inch long and cinnabar- or fiery-red. They quite world. Many of the Australian spe- Quail and the handsome shining- cies are showy plants whose hosts are black crested Phainopepla, are able cover the entire outside of the plant. If as sometimes happens there are Eucalyptus trees, both large and small. to live all summer in places totally Some of tubular-flowered kinds have devoid of springs or streams. many of these brilliant flaming Mis- tletoe balls in a single tree, the color brilliant colored red berries which Occurring on Mesquite trees grow- is noticed from afar. several birds feed their young. Prin- ing along the Colorado River from cipal among these birds are those of Needles to Yuma is a broad-leaf the genus Dicaeum, appropriately white-berried Mistletoe, Phoraden- called Mistletoe Birds. They are dron coloradcnse. The obovate small, short-tailed and vividly colored green leaves show five to six promin- creatures with red breasts. They be- ent nerves running from base to ob- long to the family of Flowerpeckers, tuse end. so-called because they spend so much time pecking away at flowers for small On desert Junipers, particularly insects and nectar. Their nests are the California Juniper, is an especi- pear-shaped and made of spider web, ally handsome Mistletoe, Phoraden- spider egg-sacs and fluffy seeds—all dron denswn, useful in Christmas interwoven into a fine felt. decoration. Its densely placed clus- ters of upright stems and handsome Many people are utterly surprised green, rather thick succulent leaves, to learn that there is at least one and the small white berries, make it kind of Mistletoe that becomes a tree a prized ornament. with well-defined central stem and reaching a height of at least 15 to 25 On Cottonwood trees grows the yel- feet. It grows in Southwest Australia lowish-green leafed Mistletoe, Pho- and is known as the Fire-tree. Its radendron flavesccns. On it may feed scientific name is Nuytsia floribunda the larvae of the beautiful Great — named after Peter Nuyts, a cele- Purple Hairstreak Butterfly (Altides brated Dutch navigator and discov- ha'lesiis) . These larvae are slug- erer of that part of Australia called shaped—flat on the underside. Their Nuytsland. The species is very showy bodies are covered with a dense coat and not parasitical but terrestrial, of velvety hairs giving them the very that is, with roots in the ground. The texture of the Mistletoe leaf, and gorgeous flowers are orange-red. making them very inconspicuous. When very young they actually bur- Dr. Standley lists 57 kinds of Mis- row and feed between the leaf sur- tletoe from Mexico alone. In all the faces, like a leaf-miner. Finally pu- world there are some 1100 species, pating, they go underground, under belonging to 30 genera. In the trop- rocks or bark, held in place all the ical, mostly African genus, Loranthus, time by a silken girdle. My friend there are about 500 species. The next Noel McFarland tells me that this largest genus is the American Phora- dark brown or blackish pupa can DESERT HOLLY dendron with about 135 species. ///

author of "DESERT WILDFLOWERS," "THE CALIFORNIA DESERTS," By EDMUND C. JAEGER "OUR DESERT NEIGHBORS," "THE NORTH AMERICAN DESERTS"

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 17 :. ::|::

ontjet the oignsjool The Public Domain belongs to the public ~ - not to illegal sign posters ty WALT WHEELOCK

E WERE driving slowly along and prevent ingress over three miles in Los Angeles states that its office a graded road west of Shoshone, of public desert land. ordinarily does not issue permits to looking for a pair of dirt tracks W Unfortunately, many wanderers of construct roads to mining claims, that would lead up the gently sloping desert backcountry trails are not ac- feeling that the general laws provid- wash. On a previous trip, we had ing for access to claims are sufficient followed this desert road about three quainted with the laws covering in- gress and transit of public lands. to allow for the construction of road- miles to a long-abandoned prospect r ways to mining sites. The BLM does hese people are frightened off h- site, through a region rich in chal- require, however, that the road be cedony float. As we approached the illegal sign posting and inclosure. constructed along the shortest prac- turnoff, we noticed a couple of signs Equally unfortunate is that such ticable route, but makes no other had been erected alongside of the random and unlawful posting of NO restriction. It was pointed out that side road. One was a simple NO TRESPASS signs tends to breed con- such roads may be privately con- TRESPASSING, while the other tempt and disregard for signs legally structed by the mine owner, but that stated, PRIVATE ROAD - KEEP posted. the mine owner has no more right OUT. Federal law is quite clear on this to their use than any other person wishing to travel this route. BLM As a person with 25 years service subject. The basic law as given in the Code (43 USC field agents are instructed to remove on the Glendale Police Department, any unlawful signs. and one who considers himself a law- 1061) declares that all unauthorized abiding citizen; I found the signs a inclosures by private parties or cor- However, if a mine owner does little disconcerting, to say the least. porations of public lands are illegal. build a roadway, primarily for his In an early case, Clemmore vs. Gillette own use, he is under no obligation But, I knew that the roadway we (33 Mont 321), it was stated: "any were on lies across Bureau of Land to maintain this road in a safe con- citizen inclosing a section of the pub- dition for the protection of any cas- Management property, and as such lic domain is in violation of this act was not subject to closure. ual user. Posting a sign stating USE . . . cannot . . . prevent another from AT YOUR OWN RISK is a proper Deciding to investigate, we followed trespassing on the land." procedure. Likewise, a sign PRI- the road to its end, passing several The following section of the Public VATE BUILT ROAD - USE AT other warning signs, before reaching Land Law (43 USC 1063) is more YOUR OWN RISK would be a legal the abandoned mine-prospect hole. specific: "No person, by force, threats, Here, we found that a "weekend intimidation or fencing or inclosure paperhanger" had daubed white paint or any other unlawful means . . . on a set of corner monuments and shall prevent ... or obstruct the free had posted claim notices on 20 acres. passage or transit over public lands." The old-timers of the region had long In a 1921 Idaho case (260 US 353) ago found that there was no payable it was held that the display or use of NO ENTRY dirt here, but this had not prevented firearms to prevent lawful transit is WITHOUT PERMISS! our novice prospector from posting a unlawful. relocation claim. This he had done TRESPASSING™ in a lawful manner, but also had The concluding section of the Law JfRBIDOEN BY LA' presumed to illegally attempt to close (43 USC 1065) provides for the re- moval of unlawful inclosures, and states that civil or military force may be used if necessary. The author is 51 years old; a resident of Glendale, Calif. He is well known in In the Taylor Grazing Act, the law Sierra Club circles, and is currently on the executive committee of that organi- specifically forbids any attempt to zation's Angeles Chapter. He is a past prevent the crossing of leased lands. chairman of the Desert Peak Section of In addition, the entry of persons in- the Sierra Club. Wheelock is watch com- terested in the ingress and use of mander of the Glendale Police Depart- ment's detective bureau, a post he has these leased lands for mining explo- had for 11 years. In addition to moun- ration, hunting, fishing or recreation tain climbing, his hobbies are narrow is definitely authorized. Any act tend- THIS SIGN WARNS PEOPLE AWAY FROM MICRO- gauge railways and California history— ing to block such use is forbidden. WAVE UNIT NEAR BARSTOW, CALIF. BECAUSE especially history of the mountains and THE SIGN IS A MILE FROM THE STATION, IT desert. The Bureau of Land Management IS IMPROPERLY POSTED, HENCE VALUELESS.

18 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 posting. There would be no material opposite side. Simply stated, such a objection to abbreviating this to PRI- transmission line operator may re- VATE ROAD - USE AT YOUR strict travel along the leasehold, but OWN RISK, as there is no attempt not across it. in this wording to prevent ingress In many cases, the transmission or transit of this road. company will post signs at each road But a sign, WARNING-PRIVATE crossing, stating PRIVATE ROAD. ROAD - KEEP OUT is a definite This is to safeguard the lessee from violation of Section 1063, an attempt damage suits that might result from to prevent transit by threats. accidents suffered by unauthorized users of the road. By so posting, the Under certain conditions, the Bur- trespasser is prevented from claiming eau of Land Management does lease that he was an invitee, hence the re- land and right-of-way tracts for the sponsibility of the lease holder. construction of private roads. Many PRIVATE ROA rights-of-way across the desert and the In addition to transmission lines, TO mountains have been leased for elec- a number of leases have included the AMERICAN MIN trical transmission lines, such as the necessary right-of-way to enable con- Hoover Dam - Los Angeles power tractors to build and maintain micro- USE AT VOm OWN RISK line. Leases have also been completed wave and television repeater stations. for gas and oil pipelines. In these These have the same status as the cases, the right to build a private transmission lines discussed above. roadway is included, and the right- There are other types of uses of of-way may be fenced and posted. public lands that have their own rules LEGAL SIGN ON PUBLIC LANDS NEAR SHO However, the lessee may not close and laws. Thousands of acres of des- SHONE ON DESERT: "USE AT YOUR OWN RISK" any pre-existing roadway crossing the ert lands have been withdrawn from proposed transmission line. In no public uses by the various Armed manner may the lessee prevent travel Forces. While these lands are still when it is considered that such action from one side of the strip to the publicly owned, the military authori- is necessary to protect the natural ties have complete control and may beauty of the area. Many old mining absolutely forbid entry to these reser- roads have been closed in Joshua vations or bases. These are usually Tree National Monument under this fenced and always posted. When procedure. such a sign reads KEEP OUT, it Apparently unoccupied areas in means just that. the desert often may be railroad or During World War II, California school lands or have otherwise been and several other states, realizing the transferred to private ownership. In great damage sabotage could cause these cases the ordinary trespass laws to our defense efforts, passed a special apply. form of trespass law. Even though With the above exceptions, there a score of years have passed since the are no "private lands" in the public war, these laws remain on the books. domain. However, many miners and It states that if a public utility instal- desert dwellers who have suffered lation is posted with a specified size from acts of vandalism claim that and type of sign, then no unauthor- they should be entitled to protect ized person may enter upon the in- their property. These folks maintain stallation. The law also requires that that any type of sign that will stop the plant or station be fenced or this destruction is justified. Consid- posted at rather close intervals. eration of the property rights of In California, the sign must be not others would eliminate the supposed less than one square foot in area and need for many of these illegal signs. must bear the words, in letters at /// least two inches high, TRESPASS- ING-LOITERING FORBIDDEN BY LAW. These signs have not this force if they are posted in any other way. I have noticed such a sign posted a mile away from a microwave repeater station. Such a posting does not comply with the requirements. HORSE & FOOT TRAIL U.S. Forest Service regulations pro- vide for the private construction of roadways to serve timber sales. These NO VEHICLES PERMITTED routes may be closed to public use for safey reasons. Similarly, some LEGALLY, THE ARMED FORCES CAN KEEP CIVIL- forest roads are subject to fire season IANS OFF THE HUGE TRACTS OF PUBLIC DO- closures. MAIN TAKEN OVER FOR TRAINING AND WEAP- ONS' TESTING. THIS SIGN IS AT THE NAVAL The National Park Service may ORDINANCE TEST STATION AT CHINA LAKE, close and even abandon public roads SIGN CLOSES ROAD IN JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL CALIF. LOCKED GATE IS JUST AROUND BEND. in National Parks and Monuments MONUMENT: A PARK SERVICE PREROGATIVE

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 19 HALF-ROTTED cableway ter- minal-tower is all that remains A of one of the Southwest's most A 15-year-old boy's "crazy" plan unusual logging operations. This relic is perched high atop the east rim of to haul lumber off the top Zion Canyon, overlooking Angel's of Zion Canyon's east rim led to Landing at the canyon's Big Bend. the fulfillment of a prophesy Few of the half-million persons who visit Zion Canyon National Park every by Brigham Young . . . year are aware of the old tower peer- ing down at them, or of the history etched into the heavy timbers of south- ern Utah's first aerial tram. Recently I visited this site. The ride When Lumber Came From the up Cable Mountain was a tough 10- mile climb for this is strictly four- wheel-drive country. Once on top, however, the flat-top mountain, with Cliffs of Zion its thatch of oak brush and occasional groves of slender pine, seemed to roll on forever — an illusion that ended abruptly when I reached the edge of the gorge. From the framework of 'like A Hawk Flying" the old tower I looked straight down nearly a half-mile to the Weeping Rock below. The Zion Canyon Cable was a flimsy By FRANK JENSEN affair. It would never have passed present-day industrial safety standards. But, it worked. In the six years the tram operated—1901 to 1907—it sent more than 200,000 board-feet of sawed logs flying from the red and white ledges of Zion Canyon to the lumber-hungry settlements strung out along the valley of the Virgin River. The first cable was fashioned from 50,000 feet of telegraph wire freighted nearly 300 miles from Salt Lake City. Five strands of the wire were looped over wooden pulleys and drums on the two towers located 3300 feet apart. Supported by these slender strands and faith in the law of gravity, Zion Canyon lumbermen were able to send 600 pounds of freshly-cut lumber down in two-and-a-half minutes—up to 10,- 000 feet in a single day. Two men who remember the cable- way best are 83-year-old Will Flani- gan, who with his brother Dave built the original tramway, and Dr. Frank Petty, a retired Cedar City dentist who claims the distinction of being the first man to ride the cable from top to bottom. "For 10 years my brother Dave tried to sell people on his idea," Flani- gan recalled. "But they wouldn't lis- ten to a 15-year-old boy's 'crazy' no- tion. People said a cable that long wouldn't hold its own weight, let alone haul lumber." Few of the descendants of those sturdy pioneers who settled in the shadow of Zion Canyon recalled a

WILL FLANIGAN OF CEDAR CITY EXAMINES

20 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 prophesy by the Mormon leader Brig- ham Young that "lumber would come from those high ledges like a hawk flying." Young Dave Flanigan finally took the burden of prophesy upon his own shoulders, and in 1901 made his neighbors eat their words. The old terminal was built of hand- hewn logs which later burned and were replaced with sawed logs. The telegraph wires eventually gave way to a steel cable, and steel pulleys were substituted for the wooden ones. But the original design of the cableway as conceived in the mind of a 15-year-old boy remained essentially unchanged. The first live passenger to ride the cable was a nondescript mongrel named Sharkey who made the dizzy ascent in 1904. The pup declined the return trip down. A load of squealing terror-stricken pigs were sent down that same year, but human volunteers were scarce until Frank Petty, then a dental student, decided that the ride was preferable to the six-mile walk down the trail. Petty made his "flight" in 1905. "We stacked one end of the pile of lumber in a box and tied the other with a chain attached to the cable," recounted Petty. "I straddled the lumber between the chain and the box." After that the short-line had regular "commuters." The trip up was just as exciting for the passenger who would sit with his feet dangling from the open-end of the box and wait for a load of lumber to be pushed off the top, the counter-weight quickly hoist- ing his "car" to the top. In all the years of continuous oper- ation no one connected with the haz- ardous venture was killed, but there were a few near-misses. Paradoxically, the cableway did claim the lives of three non-tram men. Two of the vic- tims were hikers who took refuge un- der the head-tower in a thunderstorm and were struck by lightning. The other was a scoutmaster who was killed long after the cable had fallen into disuse. A piece of iron attached at the top was jarred loose and slid to the bottom, striking the fellow on the head. This freak accident wrote the finish to the Zion Canyon Cable. In 1926 the Park Service ordered the tail-towers torn down and the cable dismantled. The cable played a part in the set- tlement of the southwestern Utah des- ert, and there are a few old-timers still around these parts who can recall the day lumber, "flying like a hawk," came out of the ledges of Zion Canyon. LOOKING STRAIGHT DOWN 2700 FEET FROM THE TER- /// MINAL TOWER OF THE OLD ZION CANYON CABLEWAY

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 21 HE SEARCH for the "noble metals," as the gold, silver, and platinum groups are called, T has been going on since days of antiquity. The prominent part this search played in the Gold Rush days of the Old West is written into our colorful history—and the search is no less zealous today, with the oldtime assayer continu- ing to play the leading role. For his is still the final word. General assaying is divided into three meth- ods: the Chemical, or "Wet" Analysis; the Spec- 4 tographic; and the oldest known—the Dry or "Fire" Assay. The latter method is the province of the oldtime assayer, who is fast disappearing from the Western scene, but whose "art," strange- ly, is still the most critical method of gold detection. Fire assaying existed before the days of Christ, and is mentioned in the scarce excerpts of the writings of Theophrastus, who lived from 371 to 288 B.C. and was chosen by Aristotle to suc- ceed the master as head of his philosophic school. Theophrastus makes mention of the "trial by touchstone" in which the color of a streak made on black stone by a "touchneedle" (of gold, silver and copper composition) was known and was compared with the colored streak of the metal being tested. Georgius Agricola (1494-1555), known as the Father of Metallurgy, was well acquainted with the Dry Assay; and the alchemists of old knew the processes of precipitation, cupellation, and small-scale smelting which is the basis of this method. Today, one of the last and best known prac- titioners of the art of Fire Assay is Martin Engel of Cantil, California. Cantil is a little Mojave Desert community lying east of Highway 6 (Sierra Highway) about 18 miles north of Mo- jave. Here the Tehachapi Mountains end and the High Sierra begins. Engel, who is also the postmaster of this little settlement, has been plying his "fire" art for many years, and has been the final arbiter of the "golden chase" for many hundreds of hope- ful aspirants to fortune. He has received ore samples from as far away as Australia, and re- cently had samples from Chihuahua, Mexico; however, the bulk of his work comes from Ari- zona, Nevada and California. His office is a small shed next to the post- office; it contains his two machines for ore grinding, and the fire box or cupola. One machine is for coarse grinding, and the other (pulverizer) grinds the ore to the consistency of talcum powder. The furnace of fire brick, encased in an iron frame where the smelting is done, is a small butane-fired cupola in which the temperature is set at 750 degrees Centigrade (or about 1400 degrees Fahrenheit). Before the ore sample is processed as an assay, each of the machines is cleaned meticulously so that any taint of a prior sample cannot mix with a subsequent one to give a false assay. If neces- sary, a grade of ore known to have no precious metals is run through the machines, which are then dusted carefully to doubly insure that there will be no admixture of gold from another sample. Next, a sample is put through the coarse ore scan- grinder (Photo 1) and halved through a special

22 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 waff*

HRST STQ>. p the, UlVER. •"^S&L**erUsJw, • / War,fa^| Pours ore

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hotos and Jest ^ L BY ' WARRENS BARBARA re it to con TRANSUB

• n * 11 / PRECIOUS METALS / Cupels contain refined silver buttons which may or may not hold much-desired gold. gadget. From these halves, about 10 ounces of ore is taken; and this substance is put through the pulverizer until the right consistency is ob- tained (Photo 2). The resulting fine powder is separated into many squares on a purified flat surface; samples from each little pile are weighed together on a "pulp balance" (Photo 3) and put into a crucible. Then a known weight of silver, litharge (lead oxide), sodium carbonate and wheat flour is added (Photo 4); each of these materials plays a part in the fluxing and volatilizing of the ore under heat. Under high temperature (Photo 5)//the mix- ture becomes a "liquid glass" and is poured into a mold (Photo 6), wherein the now-molten lead attracts any precious metals to itself and forms a pyramid which sinks to the bottom of the "glass" in the cooling process (Photo 7). This pyramid is extracted with tongs as the "glass" cools and cracks to expose the lead at the bottom (Photo 8). The lead pyramid is next pounded into a cube (Photo 9) to free it from any slag, care- fully brushed to eliminate contaminating par- ticles, and placed in a small cupel (a small cup or vessel usually made of bone-dust). After an- other thirty minutes under heat (Photo 10), the lead (which volatilizes or evaporates at a temperature lower than that required by the more precious metals) is absorbed into the cupel, leaving a little silver "button" (Photo 11) which may or may not contain the gold so fervently desired by the prospector. This, little "button" is weighed on the assay balance (Photo 12), and the combined weights recorded. The beads are then acid-treated to remove the silver; the process, called "parting," leaves any gold in the form of a sponge. The sponge is then washed, dried, and weighed on the rarest of scales—the "button balance"; the gold weight is deducted from the known com- bined weight of the gold and silver—and the golden trail is a success or a failure. Conscientious records are now kept of each assay so that no error can occur. The results are filed or sent to the owner and the surplus ore is also retained or sent to the owner, properly tagged so that in case of necessity or doubt another assay can be'made with the assurance that it is from the same ore. It has been Martin Engel's experience that when there is a lowering of general employment around the country there is usually a correspond- ing upsurge in prospecting. He handles as many as 200 assays a month during peak times. About two percent of these turn out to be workable— to be at all profitable, the ore should run at least $40 to the ton. One of Engel's most vivid memories is of the assay he ran on the famous Golden Queen Mine near Mojave many years ago. The silver ore assayed 6000 ounces to the ton, with a streak of high-grade ore that assayed $27,000 per ton. The original owners took out $3,800,000 from the mine; then they sold it for a total $18,000,000 profit. The assay trail is just as long today as during bygone years, and the art of the Fire Assay is just as demanding. But golden trails are few and far between, and Engel's art is becoming a lost one in the Golden West. ///

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26 / Desert Magazine / Jecember, 1961 Christmas ON the Early Desert By JOHN BAUR

•HE DESERT, the frontier, and Christmas have lead an exploratory expedition from the Sonora-Arizona I always been more than compatible. Historically, frontier to Upper California. ' the trilogy is inseparable, for it was in the desert that Christmas began, and it was among desert His first journey in order to explore the overland peoples that the three major monotheistic religions, route had been successful. The next year, 1775, Anza Christianity, Judaism, and Islam, were founded. In set out on his second trip, this time taking along 240 essence, Christianity is a spiritual frontier as surely as settlers. was the arid wilderness of our Southwest a century ago. Father Pedro Font accompanied the pioneers. In his diary is recorded that year's Christmas, celebrated in the Desert Christmases were unique in pioneer America. Anza-Borrego country. The special ways in which they were observed could not have occurred in any other time or place in history. Contrary to Father Font's wishes, the soldiers were Scores of examples have been recorded, and, I suppose, rationed "refreshments." Font did not believe that the many more may have been even more memorable for bit of relaxation they all merited should include drunk- the individuals involved, but have been "forgotten" by enness. He told Anza that this was indeed a poor way history which depends upon written accounts. to celebrate the birth of Jesus. Inebriation was a sin, and the giving of alcohol was likewise sinful. Despite The following selections serve as characteristic of these serious admonitions, the commander gave his men those of which we know. a pint apiece, but told them not to get drunk or they would be punished. Thus Anza had salved his con- There is a pattern to them, these desert Christmases. science but not suited the Franciscan father! Within a One of the bright elements is the lonely but cour- short while, the people were singing lustily and dancing ageous trailblazer, buoyed by faith and a little holiday wildly. At least for a few hours they forgot the rugged diversion on this long-awaited occasion. As others did mountains, heavy rains, and their tired, sick, and highly everywhere else in Christendom, he combined the sacred temperamental animals—but the realities remained. and the sociable to honor the day. That Christmas in the desert was not entirely a mock- Another thread in the pattern is that of the Indian ery of the sublime, for at half-an-hour before midnight whose simple yet richly beautiful adaptation of Chris- a soldier's wife gave birth to a baby boy, Salvador tian dogma and symbolism at mission church or desert Ygnacio Linares. Font had consoled the mother when camp offered a peculiar wonder to the visitor in an she feared she might die. Heavy downpours and the alien environment. birth kept the party at their camp during Christmas Day, when three masses and the baptism took place. Harsh in nature, the frontier desert seems to have Font's sermon, properly enough, was a strong condem- served Christmas well. Often it made men outdo them- nation of drunkenness. selves in preparing for the once-a-year occasion, urged them to appreciate the most simple things as great gifts, FOR FONT, ANZA, AND THE LINARES FAMILY, and cleared away from Yuletide much of the maudlin Christmas was a generations-old tradition, something sentimentality, enhancing it with a rugged and lasting familiar here in the wilderness; but to the Indians of sentiment. the Southwest it was a new festival, to be adapted to fit in with the realities of their age-old society. Southern CHRISTMAS AMONG THE FIRST CHRISTIANS Arizona's architecturally outstanding Mission San Xavier to enter our Southwestern deserts was by necessity a del Bac has for nearly 250 years observed Christmas in the same manner. Here at midnight Mass, announced brief but long-anticipated respite from danger and mo- by church bells, Indians gather. These Papagos have notonous hardship. prepared a crib for the Christ Child, and the figure is The need of finding a land route from Mexico carried back to the high altar and placed above the to California through the Arizona desert, and the plan tabernacle. A Papago choir of a dozen or more voices to settle San Francisco, led the Spaniards in 1774 to intones the Kyrie in Latin, as have the ancestors of its authorize Captain Juan Bautista de Anza, an old hand members since Father Eusebio Kino, the veritable mis- at desert life and a third-generation frontiersman, to sionary-king of Arizona, taught them. The worshippers may not understand the words, but their reactions pro- claim that they feel the spirit of the Holy Night. As the Indians leave, each in the long line pauses to take John Baur has been the his- P. Jones, U.S. Senator from his turn swinging the crib. tory instructor at the Los An- Nevada, 1873-1903. geles County Museum since Among the Yaqui of Arizona the same ceremony pre- 1954. His specialty is the The material for Baur's ar- vails on Noche Buena. Shortly after midnight, when American West, and he has ticle on pioneer Christmases taught classes on this subject came from his just-published the rites are completed, everyone in the church receives at UCLA. At present he is volume, "Christmas on The tamales, the baking of which has been contracted for engaged in three research proj- American Frontier" (Caxton some time before, when one of the village families was ects: the history of dogs on Press: $5). Baur is the author chosen for the honored task. the frontier; the history of the of "The Health Seekers of Republican Party in Califor- Southern California," published nia; and the biography of John in 1959. EVEN OLDER AS A FRONTIER OF SPAIN IN

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 27 America was New Mexico, and the Indians of that music than 1 have even been with the swelling organs and region have known Christmas for over three centuries. opera-singers who adorn the galleries of our churches at home. Therefore, when New Mexico, on the main Southwest- This was not all. That afternoon a party of seven ern military route to the Pacific, welcomed American men and many women appeared in the courtyard of the Army contingents in the mid-Nineteenth Century, the church and began to dance. A drummer produced a pattern of their Holy Days had become well established. dull roar. Dressed in their best attire, both men and An Army surgeon, P. G. T. TenBroeck, was in Laguna women wore large sashes and eagle and turkey feathers Pueblo during the Christmas season of 1851. He noted in their hair and down their backs. From the waist that some "gringo" visitors of the time—contemptuous hung the skin of a silver-gray fox. The men's legs were of what they could not understand, and naive in their naked from the knees down and painted red, and the acceptance of surface evidences—looked upon the one- women's hair was combed over their faces. The dancers story mud huts and treeless tablelands as unworthy of carried gourds filled with pebbles which helped them their attention. But TenBroeck was broad-minded and keep time. wise enough to see that there were ways to express man's deepest feelings other than those he had always known. IN SOUTHEASTERN CALIFORNIA, THE CHRIS- Christmas Day proved his point. tian Indians celebrated with less exquisite symbolism, but just as effectively. At the beginning of this century, Early that morning the Laguna men began to ring one group of Cahuilla Indians who lived near the the bells of the old church. TenBroeck found the Indian recently-formed Salton Sea were visited by the adven- men in the church, dressed in their best blankets, buck- turer and author, George Palmer Putnam. He had come skin breeches and moccasins, while the women were to their homes late in December, but the weather was adorned with their gayest tibnns. On the altar flared mild. As if it were summertime, the tribesmen were bright candles. The pueblo governor and the other preparing for the Christmas holiday in picniclike fash- "city fathers" made speeches, and then the congregation ion. They had planned a grand barbecue in celebration dispersed. Fascinated, TenBroeck wrote: of the Nativity. As they passed out, 1 noticed that a great many of them Just the day before they had ridden into the hills to carried in their hands little baskets containing images, some fetch the most tender steer they could find. Since the of sheep and goats, others of horses, cows, and other domestic animals, and others again, of deer and beasts of barbecue in this stark land was a rarity to be cherished, the chase, quite ingeniously wrought in mud or dough . . . its pleasures hoarded, and its memory preserved, 20 men it was their custom from time immemorial that those who went out merrily to do the job that a single cowhand had been successful with herds, in agriculture, in the chase, could have managed with ease. The meat went into the or any other way, carry images to the altar, there to lay pit barbecue Christmas eve and the cooking continued them at the feet of the Great Spirit. all night—a night of pageantry, when old men tended the But, to TenBroeck, the most curious and interesting part campfires and recited with pride the tales of their by- of the whole Christmas service was the "orchestra": gone youth and the stories of other Christmases. Next Just over the entrance door there was a small gallery, and no sooner had the Mexican commenced his rosary than morning tables were put together under shady trees. there issued from this a sound like the warbling of a mul- The wash-tub containers were not too fancy, but nobody titude of birds, and it was kept up until he had ceased. There could have complained about the aromatic beans within it went, through the whole house, bounding from side to the tubs or the savory coffee, the rich cakes, newly-baked side, echoing from the very rafters—fine, tiny warblings, bread and barbecued meat which awaited the diners. and deep-toned, thrilling sounds. The note of the wood- thrush and the trillings of the canary bird, were particularly We can agree with Putnam that the best of all sauces distinct. is "appreciation," and these people, observing the prime To find out what had caused this effect, he went up to festival of Christendom in their own way, were deeply the gallery, and: grateful for their meager blessings, and shared them to the utmost. / there found 15 or 20 young boys lying down upon the floor, each with a small basin two-thirds full of water in A STRANGE AND GLITTERING ELEMENT TO front of him, and one or more short reeds perforated and the pattern of desert Christmases was that introduced split in a peculiar manner. Placing one end in the water, by gold. Most pioneers of the gold rush were safe in and blowing through the other, they imitated the notes of different birds most wonderfully. It was a curious sight . . . camp, dreaming of their private pile around the next I believe I was more pleased with this simple and natural turn in the mountain stream, when Christmas came in 1849. An exception in that eventful year was William Lewis Manly. The party of overlanders which he had joined had passed through Salt Lake City, and then had taken a "short cut" to Southern California, "discovering" Death Valley on the way. At Christmas, the Valley was yet to be crossed. Manly wrote of their plight: On Christmas day, they came to a rough, rocky moun- tain that could not be passed over with any wheeled vehicle. Now, I know how this holiday was spent. We must prepare to pack ourselves and oxen with the small quantity of pro- visions left (had been living some time on rations). Some of the poor oxen had to be slaughtered for Christmas—scarcely a morsel else to be prepared for the sorry festival. No one felt merry, but awful sad, when he could put in his hat his allotted part of the grub still left. Some were almost tongue- tied and walked on in silence. As the water here was quite brackish, they had to move as soon as possible and try to find better water for themselves and the oxen. No merri- ment was indulged in in this Christmas camp of 1849. As they tramped over the rough, rocky country, their badly protected feet left blood in their tracks. On that day the first sermon heard in this awesome A MORMON FAMILY, 1860: DRUM AND FIFE HERALDED THE BIRTH OF CHRIST desert was preached by the Reverend James W. Brier.

28 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 Manly tells us that at dusk on Christmas Day he sud- denly came upon Brier, his heroic wife, Juliette, and their two sons. Brier was . . . very cooly delivering a lecture to his boys on education. It seemed very strange to me to hear a solemn discourse on the benefits of early education, when, it seemed to me, starvation was staring us in the face, and the barren deso- lation all around gave small promise of the need of any education higher than the natural impulses of nature. And yet, for us today, it does not seem inappropriate as it did to the down-to-earth Manly, that a mother and lather with the Briers' faith would celebrate the holiday with a consideration of cultural matters. In the Atomic Age and its shadows, we still erect skyscrapers and cathedrals. THAT SAME DAY, ANOTHER PARTY WHICH had sought a new route southwest, led by Jacob Y. WILLIAM LEWIS Stover, was observing Christmas in a much different MANLY SURVIVED THE BITTER manner. The Stover group had traveled along for a CHRISTMAS OF '49 time with the Briers, but then set out to blaze their IN DEATH VALLEY own trail. They had suffered their own little hell, crossing a 75-mile wasteland, lightening their loads as wily savage chosen that dark morning for an attack upon they went, and finally living on horse and mule meat the sleeping town? Were we to engage in battle in Round and a little corn meaL On Christmas Day their purga- Valley with the white man's foe? Were they already at its tory was over. Stover and his companions had reached gates? No! What, then, means this call to arms from fife "Pokamongo" Rancho (Cucamonga). and drum? Ah, my Gentile friend, it is the sound of the Mormon hoys of Round Valley ushering in the dawn of How beautiful were the vineyards. They came upon Christmas! They are marching around the hollow square with drum and fife; they are firing a salute at each house- two naked Indians who worked lor the Frenchman, hold, they are singing the songs that are now being sung by Prudhomme, trampling grapes for wine. The lean Christian millions all over the world; they are ringing the migrants, who had lost everything but the clothes on bells and shouting their loud huzzas, and their notes shall their backs, greedily ate the grapes and drank glass after be borne over the distant mountain tops on the electric chords of sympathy to swell the anthems of praise and glass of the new wine as they scooped it up in tin cups. rejoicing. They did not listen to the warnings of the Indians that they were taking too much. After awhile, they toppled THERE ARE MANY DRAMATIC EXAMPLES OF over and slept a long and sobering slumber. how Christmas was put on the map of the American Southwest, and most of them carry a warm anecdote, THE MORMONS CELEBRATED CHRISTMAS IN a capsule-size story of man's achievements against na- their Great Basin haven in a far different way. Prayer- ture's barricades of hardship. Christmas gave its hon- ful thanksgiving greeted each Christmas. Although the orable name to a number of mining strikes. The expe- Mormons opposed the use of alcohol and stimulants, dition of Dr. Samuel Gregg George of Visalia, California, these were gay desert pioneers who celebrated the holi- visited Death Valley in 1860. On Christmas Day of that day with lively dances, the gathering of evergreen trees year, George's party crossed into Wild Rose Canyon. from the nearby mountains, the exchange of presents, There the explorers discovered a deposit of antimony and, not to forget the first Americans, they welcomed ore which they christened the "Christmas Gift Lode." the Ute Indians to dinner and remembered them with It became a profitable holiday present. gifts on Christmas morning. Yuletide began early for the Saints, for at dawn in most Mormon settlements The famous Christmas Mine of Arizona, a copper a noisy brass band gave the big day a grand sendoff! strike in the Gila Valley, earned more for its stock- holders than had been expected. The town of Christ- In December of 1867, John W. Clampitt was a lonely mas, Arizona, now no longer in existence, was named visitor indeed—a non-Mormon in the New Zion. He in December, 1902, when news that, the boundaries of had been ordered by the Federal Government to study the San Carlos Indian Reservation had been changed the problems facing the postal service in central Utah. was wired to two prospectors who rushed to the claims Doing his duty was especially hard at that time, for he, and named the townsite for the day of their arrival. his companion, and their mounts suffered terribly from the cold of the rugged mountain and valley country Even before modern transportation made nature lov- ing an easy and comfortable hobby, there were men through which they were passing. Finally, on Christmas who sought out the Southwest's wonders as inspiration Eve, the two strangers stopped at a Mormon farm. lor Christmas keeping. Writing in 1906 of "A Christmas Clampitt noted that his host had three wives who oc- at the Grand Canyon," one tourist concluded the account cupied a fortlike farmhouse. of his holiday pilgrimage by saying that Christmas ended That night Clampitt's melancholy verged on cyni- for him with a night-watch on the brink of the canyon: cism. And why shouldn't it? He was spending Christ- A white, silent hour when the air seemed full of whisper- mas Eve lying miserably on the floor, for his host would ing voices: not the wild hymn of the beasts, but the greater not even provide a bed. There in the dark he bemoaned call of the Unknown that has haunted the hearts of men in City and Wilderness alike since that mighty gorge below his luck, 3000 miles from home in a desert region he was no more than a hand-breadth trail through the forest. regarded as dead and worthless. He fell into a sullen sleep. Hours passed, and then: His geological chronology may have been faulty, but his words were about as effective as any yet written to . . . the gray dawn of the morning came at last, and with explain why the dignity of the desert has always proved it a surprise. 1 heard the beating of a drum, the shrill notes of a fife, the firing of guns, and the loud shouts of men and a studio for thinkers, an ideal backdrop for any Christ- boys. What could it mean? Was it a call to arms? Had the mas pageant. ///

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 29

CHRISTMAS CITY (continued)

FERRIS-WHEEL FOR DOLLS

MINERS' CHURCH MERRY-GO-ROUNw D •*' 11

. . . the gay decorations have vanished, but the spirit remains ///

32 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 CLASSIFIEDS

JUST PUBLISHED, "Ghost Town Bottles of the LIGHTWEIGHT CAMPING and mountaineering Old West," 31 page booklet, 100 bottles pic- equipment. The World's finest; used on Ever- • How to Place an Ad: tured, plus price guide, $1.75 postpaid. Wes est, Himalayas, Andes, etc. For free catalog, • Mail your copy and first-insertion remit- Bressie, 2344 Meadows Lane, Medford, Ore. write: Gerry, Dept. 107, Box 910. Boulder, tance to: Trading Post, Desert Magazine, Colorado. Palm Desert, Calif. GEM HUNTERS Atlas. Three map books that • Classified rates are 20c per word, $4 really show where to find gemstone. Each DIAMOND COMPOUND kit—economical, makes minimum per insertion. book has 32 full-page maps with gem areas sapphire, ruby, jade easy to polish. Two 3" spotted in color. Type of material, mileages maple laps, hypo-gun each 1200-8000 grits, and all highways are shown. Many new fea- instructions, $10 postpaid. Free list. Jack • AUTO-TRUCK-CAMPER tures and locations have been added to these Schuller, Box 28, Park Ridge 8, Illinois. later editions. Northwest $1. California-Ne- DON'T FIND out the hard way. Even a mild vada $1. Southwest $1. Postpaid. Scenic FLUORESCENT DISPLAYS, gold panning, black case of overheating can cost you plenty. A Guides, Box 288, Susanville, California. lights, rocks and minerals, jewelry and sup- Vapor-Kool Engine Cooler stops overheating plies. Pollard's Rock Shop, 12719 Laurel Street, with the pull of a switch, makes trailer tow- HUNTING FOR treasure? Treasure hunter, Frank Lakeside, California. ing a pleasure anywhere. Thousands now in L. Fish, tells you how and where to find it in use. Write: Vapor-Kool Mfg. Co., Highland, Cal. his new book—"Buried Treasure and Lost LAKE SUPERIOR agates, from bottom of Missis- Mines," just off the press. 93 bonaflde treas- sippi River, five polished, postpaid, $1. New GENERAL MOTORS diesel engines and generator type tumbler, rough tumble and polish same sets, 20 to 1650 horsepower, 10 kilowatts to ure locations, 20 photos and illustrations, 68 pages including vicinity maps, ghost towns and time, no changing belts or pulleys, $35.50 with 800 kilowatts, new or completety rebuilt units. your motor, belt and pulleys. For super polish Write, wire or phone: General Diesel Engine old mines. A must for the treasure hunter. $1.50 per copy postpaid. Large treasure map, on your stones try the new Cob Grit, five Co., 2430 West Coast Highway, Newport pound trial bag $1.50. Rubber-lined gallon Beach, California. Phone: Liberty 8-9361. 19x24, beautiful four color, pinpoints treasure locations described in above book. $1.50 each cans with super-seal lids $3.75. Include suf- postpaid. Send check or money order to: ficient postage. Free literature. Reid's Lapidary • BOOKS-MAGAZINES Amador Trading Post Publishing Co., L. Erie Supplies, Box 131, Stockton, Illinois. Schaefer, 14728 Peyton Drive, Chino, Calif. READ THE Prospector's Guide. Tells how and NEW—FLUORESCENT mineral detector that de- where to prospect for minerals, etc. Send NEW MEXICO Gem Trails: Another fine field tects boron, fluorine, lithium, molybdenum, for application to United Prospectors, 701V2 guide by Bessie W. Simpson, the author of strontium, tungsten, uranium, zinc, zirconium East Edgeware, Los Angeles 26, California. Gem Trails of Texas. Tells you all about the and other minerals. Cigarette pack size, day- new locations for collecting, rocks, gems, min- light operation, requires no batteries. Price BOOKS: "PANNING Gold for Beginners," 50c. erals, fossils and Indian artifacts. Over 60 $12.50. Free brochure. Essington Products & "Gold in Placer," $3. Frank J. Harnagy, 7011/2 maps and pictures, more than 65 well described Engineering, Box 4174, Coronado Station, Santa E. Edgeware, Los Angeles 26, California. locations. It's new, just out in April. Get Fe, New Mexico. your copy from your favorite dealer or hobby FREE BOOK Catalog of the Southwest—history, magazine, or order direct, $2.50 postpaid. WORLD'S SMALLEST power generator, 200 watts, people, legends, lost treasure, Indians, nature, Dealers write for discount. Gem Trails Publish- 110 volts, AC, or switch to battery charger. gems, minerals. World's largest all-desert book ing Co., Granbury, Texas. Factory to you $100. Includes engine, gen- selection. Write for your catalog today: Desert erator, frame, belt, etc. Shipping weight 28 Magazine Book Shop, Palm Desert, California. BOOKHUNTERS: SCARCE, miscellaneous, out-of- pounds. Larger models available. Krestronics print books quickly supplied. Send wants, no Corporation, 140 Sheldon Street, El Segundo, OUT-OF-print books at lowest prices! You name obligation. Atlantic Book Service, 102 Cedar, California. it—we find it! Western Americana, desert and Charlestown 29, Massachusetts. Indian books a specialty. Send us your wants. WILL SELL rock tumbler and approximately one- No obligation. International Bookfinders, Box GOLDEN TREASURES of the San Juan, in south- half-ton rough gemstone for $150. Write for 3003-D, Beverly Hills, California. west Colorado; 235 pages information lost appointment: Harry Scheihing, 55642 Santa mines, hidden treasures of bullion, maps, pic- Fe Trail, Yucca Valley, California. "GEMS & Minerals Magazine," largest rock hobby tures. Price $4.50. Sage Books, 2679 South monthly. Field trips, "how" articles, pictures, York St., Denver 10, Colorado. ads. $3 year. Sample 25c. Box 687J, Mentone, FOR WOMEN California. WANTED: DESERT Magazines, November 1937 LADY GODIVA "The World's Finest Beautifier." to July 1961 complete. Must be clean includ- HOW AND Where to Pan Gold, 72 pages, many Your whole beauty treatment in one jar. ing covers. Would prefer sets in Desert bind- illustrations, 19 maps and placer areas. Every- Write: Lola Barnes, 963 North Oakland, Pasa- ers. Eugene Kempf, 2873 Tenaya, Merced, thing you need to know on the subject. $2 dena 6, California. California. from Nugget, Dept. DM, Box 462, Tucson, Ariz. LIFE AFTER Death—A booklet of conversation NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC Magazines, 1888-1961, • GEMS, CUT-POLISHED and discussion on a vital subject. 25c post- any issue, maps, bound volumes. Free litera- paid. Lemurian Fellowship, Ramona 13, Calif. ture, "Geographic Hobby," price lists, circulars NEW FIND lavender star sapphires from Mon- tana, $2.50 ounce. Blue covellite, Montana on books about collecting geographies. Peri- LOAFING ALONG Death Valley Trails—by Wil- minerals, crystals. Postage please. Brant's odical Service, Box 465-DE, Wilmington, Del. liam Caruthers. Announcing third edition of Rock Shop, Box 65, Silver Star, Montana. a perennial favorite for those who enjoy the "DEATH VALLEY Scotty Told Me" by Eleanor authentic personal narrative of people and Jordan Houston. A ranger's wife recalls her TINY ARROWHEADS made of Australian fire opal, places in Death Valley, $4.25. Death Valley described in Lapidary Journal, page 132, April friendship with the famous desert rat and Publishing Company, Shoshone, California. some of his fabulous stories. $1.50. A. F. issue. Nice for your collection, surely different. Houston, Box 305, Coolidge, Arizona. $1.25 each, five for $5. Rogers Rocks-Minerals, • EQUIPMENT-SUPPLIES P.O. Box 411, Norwalk, California. THOUSANDS OF out-of-print books in stock, especially fiction. Murray's Bookfinding Serv- MICROSCOPES AND telescopes for professionals HINEGARDNERS' HAVE a large selection of fine ice, 115 State Street, Springfield 3, Mass. and hobbyists. Accessories. Write for price minerals including fluorescents, cutting, facet- list. Peninsula Scientific, 2421 El Camino Real, ing; supplies for gem grinding, tumbling; gifts, LAPIDARY JOURNALS from Volume 1. Some Palo Alto, California. jewelry that are beautiful and different; hand bound volumes. Include copies of famous spinning supplies. Nine miles east of Mesa, Gold and Jade Issues. Hurry. Write your 10X SELF illuminating pocket magnifier. Examine Arizona, Highways 60, 70. needs to: The Coloradoan, Gem Village, Bay- specimens anywhere anytime. A magnifying field, Colorado. glass with its own built-in light. $3 postpaid. TEN POUNDS of beautiful Colorado specimens, Emerald Distributors, Dept. A, Oakridge, Ore. $8 postpaid. Jack the Round Hound, Carbon- EARTH SCIENCE. Rockhound's National Maga- dale, Colorado. zine. Promotes understanding and apprecia- FINEST TRANSITOR metal locators, $34.95 up. tion of our earth. Subscription $2.50. Sample Informative folder, "Metal Locating Kinks" 35c. Box 1357D, Chicago 90, Illinois. 25c. IGWTD, Williamsburg, New Mexico. MORE CLASSIFIEDS

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 33 LARGE CEREMONIAL tom-toms, up to 36-inch diameter, sides covered with buffalo hide with hair on. Painted designs on head. Indian crafts and artifacts. Thunderbird Trading Post, Highway 80, P.O. Millsap, Texas.

CLASSIFIEDS WE APPRAISE, buy, sell finest reservation-made Continued from preceding page Indian goods. Send $1 for genuine turquoise ILLINOIS: KQUWitschuerbelleraichen. We've got COLORFUL ARIZONA petrified wood or Apache nugget, fine quality key chain, 16-page catalog it. Just about everything for the rock hounds. tears, 10 pounds $7.50 prepaid. You may of Indian handicrafts, history of Southwestern Rocks and makings, findings, jewelry, and the combine five pounds each material. Southwest Indian jewelry, story of Navajo rugs, other extras. You are invited! Come early, stay Rocks & Minerals, Parks, Arizona. information. The Indian Room, 1440 South late! Come see first, what you buy, avoid Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, California. disappointment. We'll show you how it's ALASKA GOLD nuggets, selected for beauty, 14c done, made. For example, 10 pounds optical per troy grain. 10 to 200 grains. Definite AUTHENTIC INDIAN jewelry, Nava|O rugs, Chi- quartz $12.95 postpaid. 3 pounds cerium ox- sources given. Full refund if customer not mayo blankets, squaw boots. Collector's items. ide (90%) $6.82 postpaid. Tumbling quartz pleased. Frank H. Waskey, Olney, Maryland. Closed Tuesdays. Pow-Wow Indian Trading amethyst 3 pounds $6.65. Cabochon quality Post, 19967 Ventura Blvd., East Woodland (some for faceting) 3 pounds $11.90. List not ROCK COLLECTORS—attention! (Kids only), for Hills, Calif. Open Sundays. issued, always open. See what you buy. $1.50, $3.50, $5., $7.50, I will send prepaid: Heike's Lapidary, Wenona, Illinois. rock, mineral, fossil surprise packages, labels FINE RESERVATION-MADE Navajo, Zuni, Hopi and localities. Big assortment, small sizes. jewelry. Old pawn. Many fine old baskets, FOR SALE: Superior agates from Minnesota, V2 The Rockologist, Box 181, Cathedral City, Calif. moderately priced, in excellent condition. to 1 inch, $1 pound, 34 to 2'/2 inch banded Navajo rugs, Yei blankets, Chimayo homespuns, CRYSTALIZED GOLD, rare lode pocket specimens. $2.50 pound, blue chalcedony $2 pound, pottery. A collector's paradise! Open daily Many intrinsic patterns, attractively displayed, tumble polished Superior $3.50 pound, plus 10 to 5:30, closed Mondays. Buffalo Trading $2 postpaid, guaranteed. Lester Lea, Box 942- postage. Frank Engstrom, Grey Eagle, Minn. Post, Highway 18, Apple Valley, California. D, Mount Shasta, California. THREE FINE prehistoric Indian war arrowheads OPAL, AMETHYST, etc. 10 ringsize stones, ground CALIFORNIA GEM materials, crystals, fossils, and polished ready to set, $5. Opals, deep $1. Flint scalping knife $1. Rare flint thunder- minerals. Good selection to choose from. red, blue, green, golden flashing in all colors bird $3. All $4. Catalog free. Arrowhead, Custom sawing by the inch. Award Orna- of the rainbow, direct from the mine, 15 for Glenwood, Arkansas. mental Iron and Welding, 971 E. Barbour, $5. Kendall, Sanmiguel d'Allende, Guanaju- Banning, California. ato, Mexico. AMERICAN INDIAN color slides. Superb muse- um specimens covering archeology and eth- HUEBNERITE, SILVERTON area; coquimbite, Utah; nology of Western Hemisphere. Excellent for OPALS AND sapphires direct from Australia. wavellite, Arkansas; realgar crystals, Nevada; This month's best buy: black opals from teachers, artists, collectors. Free list. American all select specimens. Hundreds of other rare Lightning Ridge. 1 solid black opal cabochon, Indian Museum, Broadway and 155th, New good pieces. Write: The Coloradoan, Gem 1 piece rough black opal cutting material, 1 York 32. Village, Bayfield, Colorado. piece rough black opal matrix. All fine gem ARROWHEADS, PREHISTORIC or modern, or material for $15, free airmail. Send personal make your own. Black obsidian slabs 25 square check, international money order, bank draft. • GEMS, ROUGH MATERIAL inches ready to work on, or 10 pounds of Free 16 page list of all Australian gemstones. chunks, complete simple instructions like the Australian Gem Trading Co., 294 Little Collins COLORFUL AUSTRALIAN fire opal; rough or cut. Indians used to make them, $5.50 prepaid. St., Melbourne C.I., Australia. No deposit. Approvals sent on request. See Southwest Rocks & Minerals, Parks, Arizona. before you buy. Free list. Write: Walker "Opals Exclusively", 20385 Stanton Ave., ANCIENT INDIAN relics, includes Aztec and • GEMS, DEALERS Castro Valley, California. Mayan, all kinds, rarities, large list. Richard Kotil, 7500-L Southwest 16th Street, Miami, Fla. DESERT ROCKS, woods, jewelry. Residence rear OPALS! MEXICAN fire opal specimens in matrix, of shop. Rockhounds welcome. Mile west on 6 for $1 postpaid. Rock Park, 5050 East Van PINE VALLEY Indian Trading Post offers for sale U.S. 66. McShan's Gem Shop and Desert Buren, Phoenix 8, Arizona. its large collection of old Indian baskets. Museum. P.O. Box 22, Needles, California. REDS, MOTTLED, lace. A new find. Jasp-agate. Highway 80, Pine Valley, California. 100 pounds prepaid, $22.50. Morton Minerals RIVERSIDE CALIFORNIA. We have everything 6 ARROWHEADS, 10 warpoints, 4 birdpoints, 2 & Mining, 21423 (old) Hwy. 66, RFD 1, Bar- for the rock hound, pebble pups, interesting spearheads — $5. Have beads, beadwork, stow, California. gifts for those who are not rock hounds. masks, fetishes, prehistoric pottery. Paul Minerals, slabs, rough materials, lapidary sup- GOLD SPECIAL: Arizona gold on quartz or gold Summers, Canyon, Texas. plies, mountings, equipment, black lights. Why on hematite. Also magnetic lodestone $1 each, not stop and browse? Shamrock Rock Shop, all three $2 prepaid. Money back guarantee. IF YOU are looking for prehistoric or historic 593 West La Cadena Drive, Riverside, Calif. Southwest Rocks & Minerals, Parks, Arizona. Southwest material; for a certain Indian OVerland 6-3956. painter, a good rug, jewelry—anything unus- OPALIZED WOOD, small limb and root sections, ual, why don't you write? House of Six Di- GEM DEALERS, gift store owners: write for free colorful, unique specimens, cut off ends on rections, Fifth Avenue, Scottsdale, Arizona. brochure on ready-made, superior-polish jew- trim saw and polish, $1.50 per pound, plus elry and popular, fast-selling baroques. Em- postage please. Joseph S. Gentzler, Box 1292, INDIAN ARTIFACTS Catalog No. 12; 28 pages, pire Gems by Roy, Box 133, Trinidad, Calif. Santa Ana, Calif. 857 illustrations, B.C. to early A.D. with his- tories. Arrowheads, wampum, charmstones, CHOICE MINERAL specimens, gems, cutting ma- DOWSE'S AGATE Shop offers fine black jade $3.50 etc. Send $1 for catalog, will credit on first terial, machinery, lapidary and jeweler's sup- pound, pink thulite jade $3.50 pound, turri- $5 order. H. W. Worcester, 1229-B University plies, mountings, fluorescent lamps, books. tella agate highly agatized, cuts fine cabochons Avenue, Berkeley 2, California. Sumner's, 21108 Devonshire, Chatsworth, Cal. 50c pound, Utah green mountain aventurine quartz, cuts solid green-blue cabochons, fine ARROWHEAD COLLECTION: 15 mounted frames • GEMS, MINERALS-FOSSILS material, 60c pound, pidgeon blood agate, 21x31" containing over 2500 authentic, out- Utah, very fine material for outstanding cabo- standing artifacts, comprising blades, spears, chons $1 pound, crystal lined geodes 75c knives and arrowheads. 90% obsidian. Sur- FINE DOMESTIC and foreign crystals and mas- pound, Utah thundereggs, small to large $1 face finds from northwestern states. Museum sive minerals. Please ask for free list. Con- pound. 754 North 2nd West, Salt Lake City, material. $5000. Will deliver 1000 miles. If tinental Minerals, P.O. Box 1206, Anaconda, Utah. interested write for complete information. H. Montana. M. Worcester, 1229 B University Avenue, GEODES, CRYSTAL lined, 3" to 5", broken and FOSSILS. 12 different for $2. Other prices on Berkeley 2, California. proved, or whole, unbroken, (not guaranteed) request. Will buy, sell or trade. Museum of $1.75 each postpaid. Free list gems and min- Fossils. Clifford H. Earl, P. O. Box 188, THREE JASPER arrowheads $2. Six gem material erals. The Vellor Co., P.O. Box 2344, St. Louis Sedona, Arizona. arrowheads $5. Bone awl, birdpoint, drill, $2. 14, Missouri. Cherokee, 1513 Ohio, McKeesport, Pa. rOUR NATURAL staurolites, cross on both sides, for $1 postpaid. "Animals" assembled from • INDIAN GOODS ANCIENT ARROWHEADS from Mexico. Picked uncut quartz crystals — "Rockhound," $1.25 up around old ruins. Rarely obtainable. Many each. Five assorted animals, $5.50 postpaid. SELLING 20,000 Indian relics. 100 nice ancient white birdpoints. $3 dozen, $6 dozen, $9 Reasoner Rock Originals, Crown King Highway, arrowheads $25. Indian skull $25. List free. dozen, as to quality, antiquity. Satisfaction Bumble Bee, Arizona. Lear's, Glenwood, Arkansas. guaranteed. Blackhawk, Umatilla 3, Oregon.

34 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 INDIAN PHONOGRAPH records, authentic songs PLATINUM ORE samples, good grade, hen-egg FORTY ACRE Coachella Valley ranch for sale, 18 and dances, all speeds. Write for latest list: size or larger, $8. No stamps. Henderson, acres seven-year-old Thompson grapes, 20 Canyon Records, 834 No. 7th Avenue, Phoenix, 690 North 3rd Street, Brawley, California. acres four-year-old grapefruit. Three bedroom 1, Arizona. ranch house, one duplex two bedrooms each. ASSAYS. COMPLETE, accurate, guaranteed. High- Asking price $112,000. Other ranch and com- GIANT PHOTO-lllustrated Indian Relic Catalog- est quality spectrographic. Only $8 per sam- mercial investments, also homes, available. collector's guide, 25c (refundable). Indian ple. Reed Engineering, 620-R So. Inglewood Jorgensen Realty Branch Office, P.O. Box 965, Relic Gallery, 8 Helene Avenue, Merrick 15, Ave., Inglewood, California. Fireside 6-8389, Palm Desert, California. New York. NATURAL PLACER gold, cleaned mine run, 960 FOR INFORMATION on desert acreage and par- fine, $42 troy ounce. Satisfaction guaranteed. cels for sale in or near Twentynine Palms, • JEWELRY Cashier's check or money order, Marcum Biel- please write or visit: Silas S. Stanley, Realtor, enberg, Avon, Montana. GENUINE TURQUOISE bolo ties $1.50, 11 stone 73644 Twentynine Palms Highway, Twenty- turquoise bracelet $2. Gem quality golden $1 FOR gold areas, 25 California counties. nine Palms, California. tiger-eye $1.75 pound, beautiful mixed agate Geology, elevations. Pans $3, $2.50. Poke $1. baroques $3 pound. Postage and tax extra. Fred Mark, Box 801, Ojai, California. • WESTERN MERCHANDISE Tubby's Rock Shop, 2420V2 Honolulu Ave., Montrose, California. LOST GEMS, gold, pieces of eight waiting to be FREE "DO-lt-Yourself" Leathercraft catalog. Tandy found. A bigger than king-size buy. Gigantic Leather Company, Box 791-Y-40, Fort Worth, DEALERS! Write for wholesale prices on our 30x60 inch treasure map showing 450 varied Texas. fabulous line of non-tarnishing aluminum locations throughout every state. Only $3 plus chains and baroque mountings. Include $1 25c handling. Treasure, Box 1043, Compton, GHOST TOWN items: Sun.colored glass, amethyst for samples. Use letterhead or send tax num- California. to royal purple; ghos-t railroads materials, ber. R. B. Berry & Company, 5040B Corby tickets; limited odd items from camps of the Street, Omaha 4, Nebraska. MINING TOURS — Visit historic Tropico Gold '60s. Write your interest—Box 64-D, Smith, Mine, Mill and Gold Camp Museum. Five Nevada. SPECIAL GET acquainted mail order offer: your miles west of Rosamond, California, in Ante- choice of Apache Tear or sun-colored desert lope Valley. Go underground, see gold ore WELCOME! LET us shade your problem lamp glass double stone earrings, high polish, very in place. Complete tour of cyanide gold mill with translucent material. Desert novelties, attractive, nice for gifts. $2.40 value for $1. where millions in gold have been recovered. stationery, gifts. Closed Thursdays. Cubit's Also special, small vial mercury $1. A collec- Relive the old West in Gold Camp and Museum. on the Highway, 51329 East Morongo Valley, tor's item, usually hard to obtain. Postage California. and tax included. The Churchills, 118 South • OLD COINS, STAMPS Main, Bishop, California. SUN COLORED glass for sale. Mrs. A. E. Wyc- koff, 11501 Davenport Road, Agua Dulce, Cal. BEAUTIFUL SMALL arrowheads made of gold- RARE UNCIRCULATED Carson City mint dollars, stone, imported from Italy, nice for ear-drops, 1878, $5. 1882-83-84-90-91, $10 each. 100- tie tacks or collections, certainly different, 2 page catalog 50c. Shultz, P.O. Box 746, Salt • MISCELLANEOUS for $1. Rogers Rocks-Minerals, P.O. Box 411, Lake City 10, Utah. Norwalk, California.. STAMP COLLECTIONS wanted: U.S. or foreign LEARN OIL painting. New correspondence GREEN SLAG arrowheads make beautiful ear- envelopes with stamps. Before 1880, Indian courses for amateur and advanced students. drops, nice for bolo ties, etc. $ 1 pair. Rogers head pennies. Jack Leese, 1520-D, Grand Cen- Personal forty point critique of each painting. Walker School of Art, Box 486, Montrose, Colo. Rocks & Minerals, P.O. Box 411, Norwalk, Cal. tral Station, New York City. BOOKS, COINS, stamps wanted. Cash paid. Send SOUR DOUGH biscuit recipe and full directions • LODGES, MOTELS quarter for marvelous lists. Books found. No $1. Dutchoven or modern baking. Revive the obligation. Williams, Box 673, Hoboken, New lost art. Franks Murdock, Dalhart, Texas. ROCK HOUND headquarters: Moqui Motel, Es- Jersey. calante, Utah—on Highway U. 54, phone MAr- EXQUISITE FURS direct from my mountain trap- ket 4-4210, Dyna and Mohr Christensen. Pack $15 PER 100 Indian head cents, $9 for 1931-S line; fashioned by expert New York furrier. and Jeep Trips by appointment. cent. Complete buying list 25c. Billy Matherly, Beaver, muskrat stoles, $185. Mink scarves, Box 3311, El Paso 3, Texas. $60 up. Beaver rugs, $29.50. 50% down, CHINOOK, ROCKHOUND, fisherman and hunter's balance on delivery. You won't be disap- paradise, cabins with kitchenettes and wood- pointed with quality. Taking orders now. burning fireplaces. Groceries, fishing tackle, • PHOTO SUPPLIES Dick Sherman, Umatilla 3, Oregon. Texaco gas, rock-cutting material, guide serv- COLOR SLIDES: Railroad, ghost town, scenic ice, Continental bus depot, etc. Marge and PLASTIC EMBEDDING for fun and profit, no southwest, California missions, Calico, Marine- George DuBois, Highway 160, South Fork, oven. Make beautiful jewelry, decorative land. Sample and list 25c. Longstreet, 6977 Colorado. Phone Olive 7-3771. panels, science specimen castings. Catalog Sunnydell, Hollywood 28, California. 25c, Natcol Plastics, Box 444, Yucaipa, Calif. ROCKHOUND HEADQUARTERS: Calico Motel, USE OUR mail service for fine custom black and FOR SALE: 100 wagon and buggy wheels in Highway 91-446 & Calico Road. Phone Clinton white and color film processing and printing. 6-3467. P.O. Box 6105, Yermo, California. good average condition, various sizes, asking We sell, buy and trade cameras. Write for $10 each. George Smith, Stanford, Montana. Brochure on request. our free bargain sheet. (Since 1932.) Morgan Camera Shop. 6262 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood METAL DETECTORS bought, sold, traded. Com- • MAPS 28, California. plete repair service. Free estimates appraisal. Bill's Service Center, 15502 South Paramount SECTIONIZED COUNTY maps - San Bernardino 35 mm. COLOR slides of Western artist Clyde Blvd., Paramount, California. $3; Riverside $1; Imperial, small $1, large $2; Forsythe's great "Gold Strike" paintings. Four San ' Diego $1.25; Inyo $2.50; Kern $1.25; exciting slides: "Gold Rush," "Mining Camp," other California counties $1.25 each. Nevada "Mining Town," "Ghost Town." Rise and fall counties $1 each. Include 4 percent sales tax. of a typical boom town. Set of four slides Topographic maps of all mapped western mailed to you for $1. Order from Desert areas. Westwide Maps Co., 114 West Third Magazine Book Store, Palm Desert, Calif. YOU..? Street, Los Angeles 13, California. Here's a top business location with an excel- lent future. The North Edwards Shopping TRAILS TO Treasures locates and tells stories of • PLANTS, SEEDS Center! It serves the largest payrolls in the lost mines and treasure spots of Southwest in desert. Within 10 minutes: 12,000 employees WILDFLOWER SEEDS: New 1962 expanded Wild- gorgeous full color 23"x34" authentic guide, and payrolls three times those of Bakersfleld! flower Catalog is being printed. Same quality, decor item, conversation piece. $2 plus 8c tax Needed: a dress shop, children's store, hard- same price, 50c. Clyde Robin, P.O. Box 2091, in California. Treasurama, Dept. D, 3969 Good- ware, TV, appliance, shoe store, variety, Castro Valley, California. land Avenue, North Hollywood, California. laundromat, furniture store, barbershop, etc. Money back if not pleased. A modern supermarket and bowling alley • REAL ESTATE are already in operation. • MINING WRITE (or call) TODAY for a free brochure. FOR SALE: bare land, 160 view acres located in (Please indicate the business you are inter- ASSAYS: ALL types, $5. Spectographs $12. Martinez Canyon overlooking Coachella Valley ested in). Classes: Assaying, prospecting and mineralogy, and the Salton Sea. Booming area, excellent NORTH EDWARDS SHOPPING CENTER 12 hours, $15. Kilian Bensusan (Mining En- location for exclusive dude ranch or canyon (L.A. Office) 600 N. Sepulveda Blvd. gineer), 8615 Columbus Avenue, Sepulveda, housing project. Reasonable. Write Cotton, L.A. 49, Calif. GR 6-1973 California. EMpire 2-1942. 361 North Fifth Street, Coalinga, California.

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 35 Hyskell and C. O. Davis, and includes coverage of eight Western states and a portion of Mexico. An interesting aspect from the standpoint NEW DESERT BOOKS of the adventure-minded motorist, is the marking of U.S. and State highways to the nearest points of approach of each lost 200 GOOD PHOTOS OF (See footnote for information on how to mine shown. buy this book by mail.) WESTERN GHOST TOWNS "Trails to Treasures" is issued in three To Westerners, the ghost town is some- editions: vellum finish, white, offset book, thing special. Many times people will drive NEW LOST MINES MAP at $2; ivory-toned, deckle-edged Strathmore scores of miles over punishing roads to view text, $3, and plate parchment, $5. Mailed decaying buildings that would be condemned TRULY DECORATIVE in a tube from Desert Magazine Book and immediately razed in cities that are cur- "In these storied lands, billions in gold Store. (See footnote.) rently "alive." and silver treasures have been found, lost, Lambert Florin's recently published buried, abandoned. The native Indian, the Western Ghost Towns comes as close to Spanish conquistador, the sainted padre HUMAN DRAMA ON capturing the nostalgic spirit of the old who beat out the path of El Camino Real, REMOTE DESERT TRAILS the prospector and his burro . . . each has towns as they are today as it is possible During 50 years as printer-editor-pub- to do short of visiting them in person. His played a role in this adventure of riches gained and lost. The dreams that lured lisher on the American desert, Randall Hen- secret is camera skill, and the patience derson has witnessed revolutionary changes to set up a picture and then wait for the them on during the past centuries still lure other men today." both in the comfort of living in a hot arid sun to get in just the right position for land and in the attitudes of Americans optimum shadow effect. Thus, in part, reads the cartouche on a toward a region once regarded as a fit Western Ghost Towns is a collection of handsome new lost mines map titled "Trails habitation only for reptiles and thorned more than 200 Florin pictures. Material to Treasures of the Golden Southwest," plants. was gathered in California, Nevada, Wash- lithdgraphed in five colors and suitable for framing. Out of his experience, primarily as a re- ington, Idaho, Oregon, Wyoming, Colo- porter, Henderson has written On Desert rado, Arizona and Montana. Based on 10 years of research, the Trails Today and Yesterday, the most com- 174 pages; maps and drawings; $12.50 23x34-inch map is the product of Dean prehensive book yet published on the pan- orama of desert people and events-—pre- historic life, geography, history, water sup- ply, exploration, emigration, Indian life and lore and the reclamation of the desert NOW IS THE TIME TO ORDER YOUR frontier. Since the most interesting aspect of life on this planet is the human drama, the book is mostly about people—the padres who came to save heathen souls, the Moun- BINDER add a FOR DESERT MAGAZINE'S Wealth of Pleasure if TO«/ YOUR Desert Trips

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36 /Desert Magazine / December, 1961 tain Men, the Indians, explorers, jackass different sort of reminiscence in that the maps. Here is how it tells rockhounds how prospectors, Mormons, engineers, farmers, author, Gordon Stuart, doesn't take events to act when they are collecting rocks away traders, and eventually the dudes enticed by or himself too seriously. from home: a mild winter climate, paved highways, air- conditioning and luxurious guest ranches. He writes about the early days of Im- "I will cease to write admonitions of perial Valley when life was full of hard conduct in the collecting fields. I feel that One of the trails leads to Death Valley, work, fun, and big dreams. His book is common sense will suffice to tell anyone and the story of the strange partnership not a history of the Valley. It is rambling, when they are violating the rights of others. between a colorful desert rat and a Chicago personal observations, all very pleasant Therefore, my Code of Ethics is Use Com- millionaire which led to the building of reading. mon Sense, and Do unto Others' property Scotty's Castle in the most forbidding sec- tor of the Desert Southwest. Other trails The book contains 204 pages—entirely were those followed by the nomad artist, set by hand by the author, and printed Everett Ruess, whose fate remains a mys- two-up. (Stuart says the first two pages tery, although the author suggests new clues were printed on January 28, 1958, the last to the unsolved problem (see story on page two on March 12, 1960. He also notes 13). that there are many errors in the book, found after the printing, but "I will not One summer the author spent 19 days point them out; thus depriving you of the in the redrock wilderness of southeastern joy of finding them.") Utah, following dim trails in a region so remote and spectacular that Secretary of There are illustrations; plastic spiral to Interior Stewart L. Udall recently has pro- binding; $3. (See footnote.) posed that it be added to the National Park System. Paradise! Readers are taken along the trails to ROCKHOUNDS: DO AS The epic Rainbow Bridge, to the Land of the Stand- I SAY—NOT AS I DO story of the ing Rocks (once the hideaway of the no- Coachella torious outlaw Butch Cassidy), and into A man likes pretty rocks. He is a rock- Valley and Havasupai Canyon where a little tribe of hound. He often drives far from home to its exotic Indians has found a Shangri-la along a a place where he knows there are pretty Date stream of blue-green water which tumbles rocks. He puts these rocks in a bag and Industry over magnificent waterfalls. takes them home. This place is private In Baja California, an ascent is made up property. But, the owner doesn't mind. Never before has the beauty and the desert escarpment of Picacho del Di- After all, rocks are only rocks. mystery of this desert land been ablo, highest peak on the peninsula, and more eloquently told ... a basic just south of the Arizona border in Sonora The man tells his friends about the place the author's party descended into the almost where you can find pretty rocks. His friends chronicle of the transplanting of unbearable heat of Crater Elegante, and tell their friends. Soon, many people visit the age-old date culture to a new took the first recorded measurement of its the private property place. Still the owner land. "A book of primary histor- depth. doesn't mind. These rockhounds take only rocks. They also take home all their trash. ical importance on the Indio-Palm The old sandy trail into Monument Val- They shut all the gates behind them. They Springs region." ley, "Graveyard of the Gods," has now don't shoot the cows. become a paved highway, and increasing YOUR DESERT AND MINE numbers of American motorists who go Soon the place of the pretty rocks be- by NINA PAUL SHUMWAY there will meet Harry and Mike Goulding, comes "famous." Magazines write about it; Foreword by Harold O. Weight traders and motel hosts. Harry and Mike books print maps to it. These magazines 1960 SOUTHWEST LITERATURE PREMIUM trekked into this region on horseback, and and books try to do a good job. They say over a period of 35 years have won the that this place is private property. They WINNER FOR BIOGRAPHY warm friendship of Navajo tribesmen who say people who want to go there should Awarded by Desert Magazine once regarded all white people with bitter write to the owner for permission. Available at— hatred. Desert Magazine Book Store One of these books is a brand new one. One chapter of the book is devoted to It is called New Mexico Gem Trails. It or at book stores everywhere — S6.7S the author's experiences during World War was written by Bessie W. Simpson. She WESTERNLORE PRESS II as an Air Transport officer on the Sahara, lives in Texas. The book has many, many 5040 Eagle Rock Blvd. Los Angeles 41 and describes the comparative life of the nomad Arabs of that region with that of today's dwellers on the American desert. The author regards the snake dances of the Hopi tribesmen in northern Arizona and the Smoki People of Prescott as the most fascinating spectacles to be seen in America today, and his story reveals many of the backstage details of these fantastic PHOTO ALBUM OF ceremonials which are annual events on the desert stage. YESTERDAY'S Henderson's exploratory trips in the land SOUTHWEST of little rainfall have extended over a half . . . a richly-printed book century. Much of the material appeared in containing 197 pictures Desert Magazine during the years of his (1863-1910) of early-day editorship. However, the book format per- Southwest cowboys, Indi- mits more detailed narrative, and much ans, freighters, prospect- new material has been added. ors, old mining towns, Publication date of On Desert Trails is and paddlewheelers on December 10. 350 pages, 15 maps, 37 the Colorado River. halftone illustrations, index. $5 This book may be ordered by mail. Full $15 details in footnote. Autographed copies on plus 25c shipping charges. Order from: request. {California addresses add 60c Desert Magazine Book Store State Sales Tax) Palm Desert, California IMPERIAL VALLEY'S GOOD OLD DAYS When the Sands of the Desert Grew Gold ("The word is Gold—not Cold") is a

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 37 as you would have them do unto yours. pocket of another, you market it, too. The If all rockhounds will follow this simple same goes for story material that doesn't rule, collecting areas will not be closed." fit into a documentary book. These words are printed on page 5. Be- And so, Dunning's stories about mining neath them is a picture of a roadrunner people who made Arizona what it is today CHRISTMAS that was printed in the December, 1960, have been gathered into a new book called Arizona's Golden Road. In these pages we Desert. This roadrunner was drawn by make friends with prospectors, burros, Tucson artist Ted DeGrazia. It was copy- Chinese camp cooks, hard-working mine on the righted by Desert in 1960. operators, and Mexican mining folk. It's New Mexico Gem Trails has some other all very light; all very good reading. pretty drawings, too. On page 26 there The line drawings by Larry Toschik are is one of some saguaros. On page 46 there outstanding. is one of a cholla. On page 50 there is AMERICAN one of a tree yucca. And on page 60 there Arizona's Golden Road has 185 pages; is one of a yucca. The pictures on pages sells for $3.85 from Desert Magazine Book 26, 46, 50 and 60 have been printed in Store (see footnote). Desert. They were drawn for Desert by Norton Allen. Desert paid Norton Allen FRONTIER money to draw them. They were copy- VROMAN: "PHOTOGRAPHER righted by Desert. They are private prop- erty. OF THE SOUTHWEST" by John E. Baur Adam Clark Vroman was one of the Please, rockhounds, do better than those Southwest's most versatile photographers. Americana—$5 who would lead you. Do not "violate the His documentary pictures, covering a dec- rights of others." ade or so after 1890, have now been prop- (P.S. New Mexico Gem Trails has 88 erly recognized by a beautifully done book: An account of how the pion- pages; papercover; many maps; sells for Photographer of the Southwest. eers in the trans - Mississippi $2.50.) After five interesting opening chapters, West kept Christmas. This was the book is dedicated to some 90 photo- the most widely and generally graphs, mostly exposed in California or celebrated holiday on the Am- LITTLE STORIES ABOUT Arizona. ARIZONA MINING PEOPLE Ruth Mahood, Curator of the History erican frontier, and for the pion- Division of the Los Angeles County Mu- eer this day of days served as Two years ago, Arizona mining engineer seum, is the chief compiler of the book, a reminder of vanished homes Charles H. Dunning wrote a very readable and was assisted by Robert A. Weinstein. and as an emblem of all the book, Rock To Riches—the story of "a The Ward Ritchie Press did its usual excel- large company of men whose combined lent job of printing. things they hoped the future skills and ingenuity, vision and courage would bring. helped Man to learn how to convert form- The 128 page book is printed on heavy erly useless rock into valuable ore." stock, is handsomely bound, and sells for There are numerous eyewit- $12.50. (See footnote) In this book, Dunning stuck to the facts, Books reviewed in this publication can ness descriptions of frontier hol- and in so doing "was forced to delete be purchased by mail from: idays by the participants them- many anecdotes and episodes which would Desert Magazine Book Store Palm Desert Calif. selves. Inescapably, humor have illustrated the spirit of the times and Please add 15c for postage and handling the natures of the men who shared in shap- (unless otherwise specified); California bubbles up in nearly every ing the times." residents also add 4% sales tax. Write anecdote, but there are also for free catalog of the world's largest selection of books devoted exclusively tragedy and suspense, and a But, Dunning is a good miner. When to the Desert Southwest. good dash of sentiment. Yet the you're mining one metal and run into a pioneers, always at grips with the sternest realities, seldom became maudlin, even about A GIFT FOR TODAY AND THE YEARS AHEAD Christmas. To them the season brought the kind of challenge that made them stronger, not ON DESERT TRAILS softer, and they continued, in their own way, to add their TODAY AMP YESTERDAY contribution in the building of the modern West. By RANDALL HENDERSON Founder and former editor Desert Magazine There are twenty pages of In a world plagued with tension and insecurity, here original line drawings, end is a refreshing new book about a frontier region where four sheets, and a color painting million Americans have found peace and beauty and the used as a frontispiece. 320 challenge of a new life where there is pure air, mild winters, pages, large 12 mo. space and comparative freedom. Here are desert trails which lead away from the con- Please send for trade list #102 gested cities into an uncrowded primitive area where there is opportunity for adults and adventure for youth. This book is for adults and teen-age members of every family—an interpretive book flavored with the personal philosophy of a man who has spent a half century on the Great American CJLZTOI Desert. 350 pages • 15 desert maps • 37 halftone illustrations of Publication date, December 10 — $5 (Add 15c for postage) (California buyers also add 20c tax) OaldWGll, Idaho DESERT MAGAZINE BOOKSHOP Palm Desert, Calif. Copies will be autographed by the author if desired

38 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 uetureen Ifou and Ate

By RANDALL HENDERSON

INCE WE PEOPLE who dwell on the desert have or standing army to enforce international law—I would access to the same radio, newspaper and television recommend the reading of World Peace Through World S reports as do Americans everywhere, we also in some Law, written by Grenville Clark and Louis B. Sohn, measure share the same tensions as do members of the eminent attorneys, and published by Harvard Univer- human species in every civilized land—the tensions grow- sity Press in 1960 (revised edition). ing out of Russian atomic blasts, the explosive turn of events in Berlin, confusion within the United Nations, As suggested by Cousins, there would be rigorous and the pro and con of bomb and fallout shelters. opposition. Russia and China would be bitterly op- posed, for they aspire to their own brand of world These were the main topics of conversation among domination. But the leadership in such a program by the groups with whom I have met in recent weeks, and the United States would be one way to call Krushchev's 1 presume it is true everywhere. My friend Col. Jim colossal disarmament bluff. O'Reilly, who is home from Europe on a month's leave of absence, tells me there is less tension there than in I am well aware that many Americans have not yet the United States. Having survived two wars, Europeans adjusted their thinking to the concept of a supreme are inclined to take a more fatalistic view than are the world power whose sovereignty in international affairs residents of a country which has never been invaded. would supersede that of any single nation. It is an Very few Europeans are giving serious thought to fall- adjustment made necessary by two fateful events in the out shelters. 1940s. The first of these was the release of an atomic bomb over Hiroshima August 6, 1945. The second was Probably we who live in the open spaces of the desert September 25, 1949, when Russian scientists fused their country are less concerned about bombs and fallout first atomic explosion. than are people in the cities. The question: To build or not to build a shelter? is a very personal decision Subsequent development of atom power as weapons which each must make for himself. Cyria and I have of war has removed the possibility that any single nation, no plans for a backyard cave to which to escape if the no matter how numerous its soldiers or how well armed alarm were sounded. Perhaps if we were younger, had with conventional weapons, can ever again dominate school-age children in the home, and lived in the heart the world. Today only five nations have atomic know- of the city we would feel differently. 1 do not know. how. Tomorrow the number may include China. Any industrialized nation has the potential for creating We are living in a revolutionary period—a revolution atom-powered weapons, and the decision as to their use in which we Americans are involved, whether we like it could readily fall into the hands of a madman of the or not. No nation today enjoys a degree of sovereignty Hitler type. which will exempt it from the holocaust of an atomic war. In his United Nations address in September, President Kennedy made it clear that there is no security for any- But this fact does not condemn us or our children to one in an arms race. He summoned the American live forever in a state of anxiety—of fear that sooner or people to a peace race and the establishing of institu- later we may become the victims of swift or slow death tions of world law. But the full potential of his words from nuclear explosives. will be realized only when the American people respond There is an alternative. Norman Cousins, editor of with depth and vigor. And that response will come only the Saturday Review, defined this alternative in a recent when you and I recognize that the United States, with all editorial when he wrote: "Not until the individual de- its fine traditions and power and technology cannot clares a moratorium on the inconsequential in life and alone provide this or future generations with freedom invests himself fully in an effort to achieve a just and from the tensions and anxiety which had their genesis lasting peace; indeed, not until the nation itself com- in those fateful days in 1945 and 1949. mits its moral energy, intelligence and resources to a massive attempt to bolster the United Nations and give Nor can we provide security for ourselves merely by it appropriate powers of world law, however rigorous hating communism. I wouldn't trust Krushchev as far the opposition—not until these things are done is there as I can throw an elephant. But hatred is a negative warrant for defeatism." thing. The alternative suggested' by Norman Cousins and President Kennedy—the creation of world law in- For those who would explore in more detail the alter- volving complete disarmament, with an international native proposed by Cousins—the revising of the United army of police for its enforcement—is a positive goal Nations charter to establish a World Assembly, Execu- toward which all people in a democracy can make a tive Council, International Court and a Police Force contribution.

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 39 LeVINESS, W. Thetford, Eliseo Rodriguez —Folk Artist of Santa Fe Apr p38 —, Open Air Archeology May p42 1961 Index —, New Mexico's Ghost Ranch Museum Jun pll —, Bettina Steinke, Artist of Taos Aug pl2 DESERT MAGAZINE VOLUME 24 LINDER, Howard K., Boom Camp Editor Jim Townsend Sept p26 AUTHORS—FEATURES DODGE, Natt N., LOWE, Corke, Carlsbad Caverns Feb pll Nevada Pioneer Homes Nov p22 ARENSBERG, Margaret, A Desert Cabin DODSON, J. Fred and Fran, McGREW, R. Brownell, Called "Second Chance" Jan pl5 How to Photograph Birds Oct p30 Artist on the Colorado Mar p8 ARMER, Laura Adams, / Give you —, How I Came to Paint Tewa-quap-tewa's Na Nai Feb pi5 DOYLE, Harrison, Portrait May p2 —, The Big Snow Apr pl8 Hats That Won the West Jan plO MEEKS, Beulah, —•, The Morning Star Jun pl9 EARL, J. D., Touring Parker Cowboy Shorty Boyd Jan p26 ARNOLD, Oren, Carlos Montezuma, and Davis Dams Jan p7 MOCKEL, Henry, Eastern Artist Discovers Apache Prophet Oct pl8 EGE, Charles, the Mojave Jun p22 AUER, Louise, Indian Emily's Hiking with a Compass Jan p28 —, Eastern Artist Settles on the Tragedy Oct pl7 FORD, Walter, Mojave Sept pl4 BAUR, John, Pioneer Desert Christmas To the Top of Pinyon Ridge Aug p7 MUENCH, Joyce, Exploring the Water —, Exploring Borrego's Amazing Pocket Fold Mar pl4 Dec p27 Badlands Nov pl6 MURBARGER, Nell, BENTON, Arthur, A 1925 Drive to GARDNER, Erie Stanley, Utah Ghost Towns Mar p20 Leadfield Apr p6 Hunting the Desert Whale Feb p26 —, Short Cuts to Canyons and BURK, Matia, Juvenile Gunmen in the —, Rugged Roads—Whimsical Color in Utah Jun pl4 Whales Apr plO Good Old Days May pi7 —, My Nevada July p8 —, Exploring the Virgin Beach .. May pl8 —, Campers' Grand Tour of CANNING, Margaret H., GILBERT, Hope, 1882 Zuni Pilgrimage Mexico Oct plO Desert Chili Sept pll to the Atlantic May pl2 NESTLER, Alfred, CLYDE, Gov. George, HART, William J., Island in the Sky Mar p28 Utah Tourism Mar p3 Nevada's Mountains July pl5 NINNIS, Lillian, CONRADI, Patricia, Pressing Flowers HEALD, Weldon F., Wheeler Peak July p20 Hard-Rock Drilling Contests Aug pl4 With Sand '.. Feb p21 OERTLE, V. Lee, CONROTTO, Eugene L., America's Last —, Dick Wick Hall Sept p38 —, Lake Pena Blanca Nov p35 Toyota Land Cruiser Sept p34 Indian War Mar p32 —, Mini-Bikes Nov p26 —, By Power Scooter Over the HENDERSON, Randall, Hole-ln-1he-Rock Trail Aug p28 Ten Wild Palm Oases Apr p24 PATCHICK, Paul F., Geologist's Notes on —, Indian Applied Arts Business Sept pl8 —, Fifty Years a Desert Reporter Dec pi3 Ivanpah Mountains May p8 —, Artists Remington and Delano Oct p25 —, Just Between You and Me (every issue) POWELL, Peggy, Cooking Over COOL, Lynn, HERBERT, Charles W., These Are an Open Fire Nov p30 Mustangs Aug pl8 My Favorite Photos Jun p40 REYNOLDS, E. D., The Mighty Dam DeGRAZIA, Ted, The Blue Lady....Dec p4 —, Picture-Window Hints. Aug p20 in Glen Canyon Mar p26 HILTON, John W., Science Gains a Beach- RIGBY, Elizabeth, Desert Stream... Jan pl2 head in Baja California Jan p22 —, Backstage at the Flagstaff HINE, Robert V., The Kern Brothers and Pow Wow Aug p2 IMPORTANT the Image of the West Oct p20 SAWYER, Gov. Grant, JAEGER, Edmund C, Indian Uses of Native Plants Jan p34 Nevada Tourism July p6 ANNOUNCEMENT —, Garden of Native Plants Feb pl8 SHELTON, Charles E., —, A Naturalist in Southern Utah Mar p24 British Land Rover Feb p36 Our road project to Silver Onyx is —, Desert Thrashers Apr p20 SHUMWAY, Nina Paul, David Barrows- ready for travel. Now you can ride —, Ocotillo May p23 Friend of the Cahuilla Jan pl6 up the long climb to seams of Silver —, The Golden Bush Called SIGLER, Faun, and Honey onyx. Yes—several new Rabbitbrush Jun p31 Stars in Their Eyes Feb p20 seams of onyx uncovered and avail- —, Wildlife of Nevada July p34 —, The Unlovely Pocket Gopher.. Aug p24 SORENSEN, Cloyd Jr., able! Honey, Honey Lace, Silver —, Desert Tea Sept pl6 Sauceda Mountain Gem Trails .Oct p37 Lace, Brown blend, Black and White —, Desert Woodpeckers Oct p27 blends. All necessary tools furnished —-, Ground Squirrels Nov p32 free; as well as picnic tables and —, Holly and Mistletoe ....Dec pl6 pick up and go drinking water. You will be trans- JENSEN, Chris, ported from and back to Calico Ghost Tuscarora, Nevada July p29 Town (near Yermo, California.) JENSEN, FRANK, Hunter, Musicians, VagaBondia! Sorghum Maker Mar pl2 These tours leave Calico Ghost Town —, Zion National Park, Utah Apr p37 at 9 & 11 a.m., 1, 3 and 5 p.m.; re- —, Railroad Village Museum, turning every hour. Open Saturday, Conine, Utah May p37 Sunday and Holidays or when a party —, Capitol Reef Jun p35 —, Utah's Land of Dinosaurs . ._ Sept p25 of 6 or more desires this trip. Qosed —, Markagunt Mountains, Utah... Oct p41 on Friday. —, Zion Lumber Tram Dec p20 FEE: $4 per person per day KAUPER, Erwin K., Wind—The Desert's Worst Weather May p26 Get away from it all and carry the comforts Fee includes 30 pounds of onyx —, What's Behind the home with you! Fishing, hunting, camping, travel- ing, relaxing . . . life's more fun with a Vaga- (Additional onyx 25c per pound) Desert Mirage Aug plO Bondial —, Smog Over the Desert Oct pl4 • Sleeps 4 la 6! • Beautiful interior! Tickets available at Assay Office • Fits any pickup! • Completely outfitted! in Calico Ghost Town LEE, Dan, New Ideas for Desert Living • 6M" headroom! • 25% more quality! Oct p7, Nov plO, Dec p6 • VagaBondia Explorers Club—organized trips, For additional information write to: LEETCH, George W., group activities! • Cab-over models from $1177.50 Discovering Elephant Trees Nov pl4 FREE BROCHURE! Write Dept. D Calico Silver Onyx Co. LESURE, Thomas, P. O. Box 685—Yermo, California Grand Canyon in May May p31 21203 S. FIGUEROA ST. —, Along the Little Colorado Jun p36 VaqaBtmcUa TORRANCE, CALIF.

40 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 TALLON, James, WEIGHT, Lucile, Elephant Trees Nov pl4 Ancient Sanctuary in Arizona Jan p33 Saguaros in California Jan p31 Ivanpah Mountains May p8 —, These Are My Favorite Photos Apr p41 —, Indio and the Salton Sea Feb p24 Pinyon Ridge -Aug p7 —, Wild/lower Trails, California . Apr p29 San Gorgonio Pass May p26 THOMAS, Tommy, Our Friend "Hairy" —, Calico's Lively Ghost May p29 Sullivan's Lost Gold Jun p24 The Tarantula Sept p42 —, Owen's Valley Centennial July p39 Wild Palms near Palm Desert Apr p24 THOMPSON, J. A., Auto Breakdown:. —, Boron's 20-Mule Team Days .....Sep p5 NEVADA— What to Know, What to Do Jun pl6 —, Death Valley Nov p9 State Camping Guide July p26-27 TONDEL, Frank P., —, The Dale Mines Dec p9 Charleston Peak Feb p35 How It Was in Rawhide July p2 WHEELOCK, Walt, Monte Cristo Lost Mine July p30 Paradise Valley Oct p35 TRANSUE, Warren and Barbara, Trespass Laws Dec pi8 WHITE, Natalie, Madrid, N.M., the UTAH— Martin Engel, Old Time Assayer Dec. p22 America's Last Wilderness TREGO, Peggy, Winter Sports, "Christmas City" Dec p30 Frontier Mar pl8-19 Charleston Peak, Nevada Feb p35 Hole-in-the-Rock Trail Aug p28 —, Virginia City, Nevada Apr p35 PERSONALITIES Markagunt Mountain Oct p41 —, Jarbidge, Nevada Jun p37 Paria River Valley Road Jun pl4 Anza, Juan Bautista de Dec p27 —, Water Fun in Nevada July p25 BAJA CALIFORNIA— —, Paradise Valley, Nevada Oct p35 Barrows, General David .Jan pl6 Scammon's Lagoon Feb p26 VARGAS, Glen, Gem Trails in Berry, Bill Aug p28 Blue Lady, The Dec p4 Vermilion Sea Field Station Jan p22 Western Arizona _ Sept p7 Boyd, Arthur "Shorty" Jan p26 NEW MEXICO— WALKER, Simon Henry, Memoirs of a Brier, Rev. James Dec p28 Abiquiu (Ghost Ranch Museum) Jun pll Snake-Pit Operator Jun p6 Brougher, Cal Nov p22 Madrid ("Christmas City") Dec p32 WARNE, William E., Butler, Jack Mar pl2 Water From the Sea Jan p20 Chase, Mrs. Adele Nov p24 Clampitt, John W Dec p29 WEIGHT, Harold O., Lost Gold in the Cool, Lynn Aug pl8 HIDDEN TREASURES Sands of La Posa Feb p7 Cushing, Frank Hamilton May pl2 —, Monte Cristo Gold July p30 Death Valley Scotty Sept p22 GOLD, SILVER. PRECIOUS METAIS with th« Fcmow MoH.I —, Sullivan's Lost Gold _ Jun p24 27 M.lal D.l.ctor. Lighlwtight, ullTO-MnaiHn, lew Delano, Gerard Curtis Oct p25 cost. Non. (inn. Alto GEIGER COUNTERS for uranium Emery, Murl and Pat....Feb p26, May pl8 end tin VIOUTE for tungsten. INFORMATION FREE «> Emily, Indian Oct pl7 Engel, Martin .... Dec p22 Flanigan, Will and Dave Dec p20 Ofttn Copied — Never Excelled MOTORIZED Font, Fr. Pedro. Dec p27 METAL DETECTORS Gandara, Jose Feb p27 More accurate, it's the first metal detector Gentile, Carlos Oct pl8 designed specifically for detecting placer FUN Gilbert, Fred and Logan July p30 gold, nuggets, and other small metal ob- Hall, Dick Wick Sept p38 jects. Depth range 7 feet—comes complete, In the Great Outdoors Hubbell, Lorenzo Apr pi8 ready to use. Huldermann, Paul Sept pl8 MODEL 27—instructions included $119.95 Johansen, La von and Louise Aug p28 MODEL 711—with 21 ft. depth range $149.00 Hunting, Fishing, Exploring, Kern, Benjamin J Oct p20 Kern, Edward M Oct p20 Gem Hunting Kern, Richard H Oct p20 Kimball, Bill Aug p28 Knee, Lurt and Alice Mar pl4 Lampson, Charles July p30 McMullin, William Mar pl3 Mahoney, Nora Mae. Feb p21 Manly, Wm. Lewis Dec p28 Montezuma, Dr. Carlos Oct pl8 Na Nai Feb pl5 Nay, Lottie Nov p22 Pearl, Josie July pl3 Posey Mar p32 LAKEWOOD CHEMICAL KIT Purtyman, Elmer and Bud Aug p28 The ruggedly-built Pak-Jak The Lakewood Chemical Kit can be used in Putnam, George Dec p28 connection with all the principal texts on Remington, Frederic Oct p25 minerals such as Dana, Pough, O. C. Smith, Power to spare with a large rear wheel Pennfield, Duke's Course, and many others. Rodriguez, Eliseo Apr p38 The Lakewood Chemical Kit, because of geared at a 40-to-l ratio; tractor-type Ruess, Everett Dec pl4 the acids it contains, is not recommended tires. Speed to 20 m.p.h. Scammon, Charlie Feb p26 for persons under 18 years old. Priced Schapel, Karl Dec plO $36.00 Express only. Pak-Jak is the practical trail vehicle Spilger, Dr. Werner. May p30 SEND FOR FREE LITERATURE —many in use by ranchers, mineralo- Steinke, Bettina Aug pl2 gists, peace officers, foresters, as Sullivan, Jim Jun p24 CotnLton well as sportsmen. TenBroeck, P. G. T Dec p28 Tewa-quap-tewa May p2 1405 S. Long Beach Blvd., Compton, Calif. NEwmark 2-9096 For more information phone or write— Townsend, James W. E Sept p26 Vik, Curtis Aug p28 South of Compton Blvd. Walker, Simon Henry Jun p6 PAK-JAK SALES & SERVICE Yockey, Fred Aug pl4 P.O. BOX 1015 MAPS LARGEST SELECTION IN PARADISE, CALIFORNIA SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA ARIZONA— Davis Dam Jan p8 NAVAJO RUGS Government Springs Jan pl4 PHOTO and ART credits Little Colorado River Jun p36 Vegetable and Aniline Dyes (Unless otherwise specified below or in text, Parker Dam Jan p8 photographs and art work are by authors of Reasonably Priced features in which they appear.) Pena Blanca Lake Nov p35 Page 2: Wayne Book. 9, 10, 11: Harold Planet Mine Feb p7 DESERT MAGAZINE CRAFT SHOP O. Weight. 12: Map by Norton Allen. Sauceda Mountains Oct p37 Palm Desert California 14: (I.) Josef Muench. 15: (I.) Frashers. Yuma to Quartzsite Sept p7 16: Mary Beal. 17: George Roy. 18 and Winter Season: 22: Art work by Al Merryman. 28, 29: CALIFORNIA— Henry E. Huntington Library. 30, 31: Open 9 to 5 every day of the New Mexico Tourist Bureau. 32: Map by Anza-Borrego State Park Nov p21 Norton Allen. 43: Darwin VanCampen. week, including Sundays Back Cover: Western Ways Features. Dale—Joshua Tree District _ Dec pl2 Death Valley Apr p9, Nov p9

December, 1961 / Desert Magazine / 41 LETTERS FROM OUR READERS

Montezuma In Nevada . . . To the Editor: I read with interest Oren Arnold's story of Dr. Carlos Montezuma in the October issue. I should like to add that Dr. Montezuma spent some time at the Western Paiute-Shoshone Indian Reser- vation with headquarters at Owyhee, Nev- ada, where he tried to teach the Indians to adopt the ways of civilization. The Indians resented his missionary work, so he was recalled, and returned to Chicago. GENEVA OLSON Mountain City, Nev.

A Not-So-Dry Wash . . . To the Editor: I thoroughly enjoyed the fine article by Eugene Conrotto, "By Power Scooter Through the Wild Red Yonder," in the August '61 Desert, but was somewhat A 12-Month Subscription amused by the caption on the picture on page 41: "the easy ride down Comb Wash." My son and I visited this area, via black top highway, at the end of August, and normally-dry Comb Wash was running a to ~7)* stream eight-inches deep and 15 to 20 feet wide. Traffic had been stranded from Bluff to Mexican Hat for over eight hours pre- viously. I understand the Wash had been —The THOUGHTFUL Gift at Christmas Time running five to six feet of water—a spectac- ular sight! I realize that this happens only during a time of unusually heavy rain, and by next year Comb Wash will be bridged— which will take all the hazards and much of the fun out of traveling this route. ANN WILES —The EASY-TO-GIVE Gift Deaver, Wyoming Simply Fill-Out This Coupon — NEXT MONTH IN — and Mail (postage is paid)—and We Do the Rest.*

P. T. Heilly: "Who Was Elias B. Wool- ley, Fifth Riverrunner to Traverse the Colorado?" The unbelievable but true story of the discovery of a hitherto —The PERFECT Gift For Someone You Know Who unknown traverse of the Colorado which took place in 1903. Reilly, an expert Whitewater boatman and river Loves the Fascinating and Beautiful Southwest historian, tells about this historic trip, and his search for more clues to Desert Frontier. pinpoint the identity of the enigmatic Woolley. Jo© Palmisano: "An Emergency Plan For Snakebite"—do you have yours? SPECIAL: Lee Oertle test-drives three 1962 sport wagons — Ford's Falcon Club Wagon, Chevrolet's Corvair *An attractive card announcing your gift will be mailed to each Sport Wagon, and Volkswagen's recipient if you so indicate on your order. The card will arrive Deluxe Station Wagon (all of them buses) . . . and his report appears before Christmas and will be marked "Open on Christmas Day." in the January issue. If you have been thinking of buying a family ONE SUBSCRIPTION: $4 $7: TWO SUBSCRIPTIONS bus for desert camping enjoyment, read Oertle's report first. Mail Orders To: These feature articles—and DESERT MAGAZINE PALM DESERT, CALIF. more—will appear in the January DESERT

42 / Desert Magazine / December, 1961 CHRISTMAS MORNING, SOUTHWEST DESERT

By Maude Rubin

The fawn-eyed mother wakes at morning chill. Kindles a root of sage. makes the hogan bright With corn and scarlet peppers. On the hill The sun is a copper gong of polished light. The children wake as squirrels and chip- munks wake: Small things of wilderness with jewel-bright eyes. First gift is a pinyon cone to hold, to shake. Then to open, discover sweet kernels of brown surprise. No sleds, no skis, no skates—they know no ice. Their playmates are hurrying wind and tumbleweeds. Rabbits and desert quail, kangaroo mice. Their dolls made of manzanita and milkweed seeds. From the stillness of sun they learn their quiet play; On starry nights they hear the silence talk; From a safe-hidden fawn they learn the secret way Of wailing in peace— Sand cushions their walk. Though they live in a hogan, their home is earth's wide room. Their Christmas gift blanket bright-woven on sunshine's loom! OLD FIRES By MAUDE RUBIN

Gone are the white-white years, the cone-trimmed boughs, What need for yule logs, holly-green, or berries? The smell of pine trees, glitter of ice and snow, December's sun shines warm and amber clear. . . Sleighbells on moon-cold air, mistletoe votvs; Only the wing of memory still carries Old fires that warm a frosty long ago. Nostalgia for cold. This splendorcd sky Here in the desert summer fires the year— Aivaits the Christmas birth, the Star rides high!